NYT-1201: STATE OF THE ART A Thermostat That's Clever, Not ...

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If it seems odd to consider air an ingredient, you have to stick your nose in a glass of Islay singl e malt. Along with all the other components, a sav ory whiff of salty sea breeze is unmistakable. The sense of mystery in the terrain is palpable as well. “As you explore you can see how it compress es its secrets into tight parcels: dune-fringed be aches, remote hills, cliffs, caves, peat bogs, sta nding stones, lost parliaments, abandoned township s and Celtic memories,” Michael Jackson wrote in “ Whiskey: The Definitive World Guide” (DK, 2005). “ It is a tapestry of geographical and historical tr easures through which whiskey runs like a golden t hread.” It’s this air of mystery, along with a reputation for the smokiest, most robust and challenging malt s, that seems to set Islay apart from Scotland’s o ther whisky regions. Most experts, however, agree that whiskies can no longer be classified geograph ically. Production methods have become so homogeni zed that they no longer reflect local eccentriciti es as much as they do a distiller’s predilections. The smokiness comes from the tradition of using pe at — bog soil made of decomposed vegetable matter that was harvested to fuel kilns used for drying b arley. Assertive peating has long been a trait of famous Islay malts, like Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg, but it is not exclusive to Islay. And just as much a part of the Islay tradition are gentler malts like Bunnahabhain (BUN-na-hah-ven) and Brui chladdich (brook-LAD-dy), which are lighter in bod y and more floral than peaty. Another tradition, s hared throughout Scotland, seems to be names that are impossible to sound out phonetically. Our 20 Islay single malts included bottles from ea ch of the eight working Islay distilleries. Indeed , two of the eight, Bruichladdich and Ardbeg, were dormant for years, only to be reawakened to disti
ll again. The revival of another distillery, Port Charlotte, is planned. With 20 whiskies, we tried to mix in widely availa ble, well-known bottles with some of each distille ry’s more esoteric malts. We also included one mys tery malt, a bottle packaged by a whisky merchant who does not reveal the actual distiller. For the tasting Florence Fabricant and I were join ed by Flavien Desoblin, an owner of the Brandy Lib rary in TriBeCa, which has more than 250 single ma lts on its list, including 50 from Islay. Also wit h us was Pete Wells, who next month takes over as the restaurant critic. The gathering of 20 samples from Islay made it as clear as a Scottish spring that whatever traits th e whiskies had in common were overshadowed by thei r differences. “To pull utterly different characters out of essen tially the same material is stunning,” Pete said. “It’s a wonderful demonstration of range and diver sity.” The tasting also testified to the high level of qu ality in Islay malts. Seven of the eight distiller ies were represented among our top 10, and the eig hth did not miss the cut by much. Islay malts are not cheap. With a cap at $100, our 20 bottles rang ed from $36 to $97, with 16 of them $50 or over. Our No. 1 bottle was one of the easiest Islay malt s to find, the Laphroaig 10-Year-Old. It was one o f the smokiest of the group yet one of the subtles t and most complex as well, with all of the rich m edicinal, waxy, savory and saline flavors that peo ple associate with Islay, but with an underlying s weetness, too. At $45, it was also our best value. By contrast, the Laphroaig 18-Year-Old, our No. 5
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NYT-1201: STATE OF THE ART A Thermo
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NYT-1201: STATE OF THE ART A Thermostat That's Clever, Not ...

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