10 TR THENEWYORKTIMES,SUNDAY, APRIL15,2012 BySETHSHERWOOD ‘‘ Iknowofonlyonethingthatyou candowellinLyon,andthat’s eat,”the19th-centuryFrench novelistStendhalremarked. Twocenturieslater,theimage ofFrance’sthird-largestmetropolisis stillburiedunderaheapoffood.No surprise.France’smostcelebrated chef,theoctogenarianPaulBocuse, hailsfromLyon,andthecity’sbouchons—homeyrestaurantsserving rustic,traditionalcuisine—arefamous countrywide.Butonceyoushoveloff thetonsofbloodsausageandSt.Marcellincheese,youfindfarmorethana picturesquefeedingzone.Thegateway totheAlpsenfoldsRomanruins,Renaissance-eraarchitecture,abundantartspaces,talentedyoungdesigners,renovatedriverfrontsandafast-rising neighborhoodoffuturisticarchitecture. Better,anewgenerationofchefsis bringingLyonnaisecuisineintothe21st century.EvenMr.Bocuseisadaptingto thenewmillennium:Herecently openedhisfirstdesignhotel. Friday 3p.m. • 1 HeadUpriver An ambitious plan to renovate the banks of Lyon’s rivers, the Rhône and the Saône, kicked off in 2007. Exhibit A is the promenade along the Rhône on the Rive Gauche, a favorite of walkers, runners,cyclistsandloafers.Forlovely views, start at the reflecting pools along Quai Claude Bernardand head north. Along Quai Victor Augagneur, check the posters outside floating nightclubs like Ayers Rock Boat for the weekend’s agenda. Beyond Pont Wilson, the boat-cafe called La Passagère (Quai Victor Augagneur; 33-4-72-73-36- 98) is a cozy spot for hot chocolate (3 euros, or $3.90 at $1.30 to the euro) or a Kronenbourg (6 euros). From there, walk or take the 171 bus (1.60 euros) up toParcdelaTêted’Or,withponds,gardensandforestedtrails. 5p.m. • 2 TrashandTreasures Oversize refuse welcomes you to the Musée d’Art Contemporain de Lyon (Cité Internationale; 81, quai Charles de Gaulle, 33-4-72-69-17-17; mac-lyon .com),whichabutsParcdelaTêted’Or. Wang Du’s “World Markets” is a silveryinterpretationofacrumpledfinancial newspaper, while Olivier Mosset has taken old stone slabs —thought to be remnants of Paris’s Bastille prison —andpiledthemlikediscardsawaiting the junk heap. The Art Deco building, modified by Renzo Piano, displays topnotch contemporary shows. A retrospective devoted to the cartoonish paintings of the French artist Robert CombasrunsthroughJuly15;8euros. 8p.m. • 3 Dial‘M’forMeals Phone and reserve at Magali et Martin (11,ruedesAugustins;33-4-72-00-88-01; magalietmartin.fr), named for the young French-Austrian couple who ownthisquietlystylishlittlerestaurant. AformercookatParis’srenownedTaillevent, Martin Schmied changes the menu constantly, mixing the rustic and the modern. Wild boar? It appears as terrine with marinated mushrooms. Pheasant? Makes cameos in a consomméwithfoiegras.Specialmentiongoes to the blood sausage served in small pastry-likeshellsandtotheguineafowl that is poached, then roasted, imparting an exceptional succulence. Dinner fortwo,withoutwine,isabout70euros. 11p.m. • 4 LyonnaiseLibations Food claims the spotlight in Lyon, but drinks are doing their own diva act, thanks to a nascent cocktail scene. James Brown and Frank Sinatra haunt Soda (7, rue de la Martinière; soda-bar .fr). Their jailhouse mug shots and others’ decorate this dark, plush den, where 9 euros gets you a spicy Slum Dog Millionaire (Bombay gin, cherry jam,lemonjuice,redvermouthandcardamom) or smooth Globetrotter (pisco, elderflower liqueur, lemon juice and Aperol). Nearby, the strains of old American jazz fill L’Antiquaire (20, rue Hippolyte Flandrin; 33-6-34-21-54-65; theantiquaryroom.com) where bowtiedbartendersserveupseasonalcocktailslikeMarco’sBacardiFizz(Bacardi rum, green chartreuse, lime juice, lemon juice, sugar syrup, cream, egg white andsoda),afoamycitricblast. Saturday 10a.m. • 5 CelluloidHeroes Thestreetnamesaysitall:RueduPremier Film. There, on March 19, 1895, Louis Lumièreactivated the “Cinématographe” that he had designed with hisbrother,Auguste,andrecordeda50second film of employees leaving their family’sphoto-platefactory.Andsocinema was born. The Institut Lumière (25, rue du Premier Film; 33-4-78-78-18- 95; institut-lumiere.org) pays homage 36Hours Lyon,France PHOTOGRAPHS BY REBECCA MARSHALL FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES FROMLEFTAttheSodacocktailbar;abargeontheSaôneRiver;LeThéâtred’Ombres(“ShadowPlay”)displayattheInstitutLumière,whichpayshomagetotheearlyhistoryofmoviemaking. IfYouGo Openedlastfallnearthemain trainstation,AllSeasonsPartDieu (54,ruedelaVillette;33-4-72-68-25- 40;all-seasons-hotels.com)has99 nonsmokingrooms,abrasserieand abar.Doublesfrom75euros($98). OneofPaulBocuse’smostrecent concoctionsisDockOuest(39,rue desDocks;33-4-78-22-34-34; dockouest.com),adesignhotelwith 43roomsandsuitesoutfittedwith LigneRosetfurnishings.Mr.Bocuse’sOuestExpress(ouestexpress.com)restaurantistwosteps away.Doublesfrom75euros. FLORIDA SOUTHBEACH AVALONHOTEL * * SOUTHSEASHOTEL EnjoytheBeachatit'sBest.Newlyredone,GreatRates, GreatFood,GreatClubs,GreatFun,Great Locations, ComplimentaryEuropeanbreakfast. AVALON SOUTHSEAS 800-933-3306 www.atlanticstars.com 800-345-2678 MASSACHUSETTS CranwellResort,SpaandGolfClub Lenox,Berkshires. OneofthelargestspasintheNortheast! IndoorPool.HistoricGolfCourse.Spa&GetawayPackages. Nearshopping&NormanRockwellMuseum.2.5Hoursfrom NYC.www.cranwell.com/NYT 800-272-6935 NEW YORK ADIRONDACKS-TIMBERLOCK Uniquelakesideresort,comfortablecabins,threeexcellent mealsdaily,family-friendly,superbwaterfront,lotsofactivities. Season-JunetoOctober 518-648-5494www.timberlock.com MANHATTAN - RIVERSIDETOWERHOTEL $124./Roomfor1person.Doubles$129. Suites$139.-$159.LincolnCtrarea,HudsonRiverviews,18flrs, kit'ette,5mintoMidtown,safe,quiet,luxarea.Riverside/80th Freebrochure.800-724-3136orwww.riversidetowerhotel.com PENNSYLVANIA DockOuest Docks 40 10 Rue le Bec 1/2MILE PhiladelphiaBoutiqueHotelfrom$129 Greatdowntownlocationwithdesignerrooms,privatebath, DirectTVwith8compmoviechannels,comp24hrfitness center,breakfastbuffet.AlexanderInn,Spruceat12thSt. TollFree(877)ALEXINN www.alexanderinn.com CARIBBEAN ANannyMoment EveryFamilyneedsOne.FDRJamaica-AFamilyTreat, AllInclusive.GreatFood,Premiumbar, FreeWifi,LiveEntertainment,Watersports. Call1-800-654-1337orvisitwww.fdrholidays.com GREATNON-STOPRATESWITHJETBLUE St.Maarten -www.beachsidevillas.com OCEANEDGE,LUXURY1,2,3BRa/cvillas.Fullyequipped kitchen,BBQ.DailyHousekeeping,freeWi-Fi,CableTV. Perfectvacationallyear!CallOwnerYolanda313-884-7706 PRIVATEVILLA,TORTOLA,BELMONTESTATES,BVI. Oceanfrontvilla,4bedrooms/4bathrooms,270degreeviews. Stepsawayfromsomeoftheglobesmostpristinewhite sandbeaches,$4200perweek.CONTACT(631)466-0578 WEBSITETORTOLABVIVILLA.COM RosalieBayResort,Dominica Save33%thru12/22($149to$349/ntincl.contbkfst). Eco-luxe&wellnessresortw/spaciousrooms,compyoga, &organiccuisine.Seaturtlesnestonblacksandbeach. Specials atwww.RosalieBay.com(877)916-1790 QUAIRAMBAUD 9 RUEDESDOCKS Au 14 Fevrier Saône River Soda to the early history of moviemaking. The brothers’ Art Nouveau mansion is now a museum (6.50 euros) that shows original Lumière films and displays the famous Cinématographe and other earlyfilmmakingdevices,includingaboxy woodenEdisonKinetoscope.Nextdoor, theformerfactoryisnowatheaterwith arosterofinternationalfilmclassics. 12:30p.m. • 6 FrapaneseFood Like a love hotel bedroom, mirrors line the ceiling of Au 14 Fevrier (6, rue Mourguet; 33-4-78-92-91-39; au14fevrier .com), a tiny jewel-box restaurant that opened in 2009. And, as in a love hotel, those mirrors reflect near-orgasmic reactions from the delighted clients below. The stimulation is provided by the chef Tsuyoshi Arai, a Tokyo transplant wholandedaMichelinstarthisyearfor what he calls “la cuisine Française MadeinJapan.”Themenuchangesdaily but recently included blood pudding sheathedindarkchocolatetubes,warm foie gras with strawberry vinegar and cooked figs, and roasted pheasant with colorful vegetables cut to resemble gumdrops.Ninecoursesfor75euros. 3p.m. • 7 GargoylesandLard A Renaissance-era, Unesco-listed balade digestive —digestive walk — 6 4 Village des Créateurs/ Morgan Kirch/ Blue Mustach Shop 8 LaCroixRousse L’Antiquaire Terre Adélice Cathedral of St.- Jean-Baptiste 7 QUAICELESTINS Montrochet 11 Rhône River QUAICHARLES DEGAULLE Magali et Martin 3 QUAIDELA PECHERIE QUAI SAINT ANTOINE Marché St.- Antoine Cité Internationale COURSFRANKLIN ROOSEVELT 1 La Passagère QUAIVICTOR AUGAGNEUR QUAICLAUDE BERNARD 150MILES Bordeaux SPAIN PARCDELA TÊTED’OR awaits in the cobbled alleys of Vieux Lyon. Built when the city was a rich silk-makingcenter,theneighborhoodis known for the Cathedral of St.-Jean- Baptiste (8, place St.-Jean; cathedrale -lyon.cef.fr). The facade is decorated with 25 gargoyles, 36 prophets and patriarchs, 36 martyrs and saints and 72 angels —but who’s counting? —while the interior contains a towering astronomical clock topped by automatons of humansandangels.(Thewholeensemble goes into motion when the clock strikes 12, 2, 3 and 4 p.m.)If your stroll makes you hungry, the artisanal ice creams at Terre Adélice (1, place de la Baleine, 33-4-78-03-51-84; terre-adelice .eu)comeinunexpectedflavors. 5p.m. • 8 TimetoGetCreative With its steep staircase-streets and Bohemian vibe, La Croix Rousse recalls Paris’s Montmartre district. The neighborhood’s creative heart is the Village des Créateurs (Passage Thiaffait, 19 Rue René Leynaud, 33-4-78-27-37-21; villagedescreateurs.com), an alley of local design boutiques. Morgan Kirch (morgankirch.fr) makes sophisticated dark-hued women’s wear like black minivests sprouting feathers (230 euros). Mixing the sensibilities of Pop Art and graffiti, the T-shirts (39 euros) at the Blue Mustach Shop (bluemustach.com) sport playful images of Karl Lagerfeld, Jean-Michel 2 COURSGAMBETTA FRANCE ANDORRA Lyon Saône River Lyon Musée d’Art Contemporain de Lyon COURSVITTON All Seasons Part Dieu RUEDELA VILLETTE RUEDU PREMIERFILM Rhône River Marseille Mediterranean Sea Institut Lumière 5 SWITZ. ITALY THE NEW YORK TIMES ONLINE:READERS’THOUGHTS SeeaslideshowofLyon,andshare yoursuggestionsonwheretostay, wheretoeatandwhattodo. travel.nytimes.com/lyon Basquiatandotherstyleicons. 8p.m. • 9 PickNic Take Tramway line T1 to Montrochet, walk west on Rue Paul Montrochet and head toward the postmodernist building resembling a block of orange cheese. This is La Confluence (lyon -confluence.fr), a formerly downbeat docklands that is now sprouting futuristic new structures. The best food is foundatRueLeBec(43QuaiRambaud, 33-4-78-92-87-87; nicolaslebec.com), a sprawling restaurant with a wine bar, bakeryandfine-foodboutique.Itcomes courtesyofNicolasLeBec,theheadliner of the new generation of Lyon chefs. Themenuisaglobaljourneythatstarts in Lyon —andouillette sausage, tête de veau —with stopovers in Spain (Iberian ham with tomato bread), Italy (eggplant topped with mozzarella), Japan (wagyubeeftappanyaki)andNorthAfrica (lamb with mint and souk spices). Threecoursesfortwo,about90euros. 10p.m. • 10 TieUptotheDock Follow the scent of after-shave and D&G perfume to Docks 40 (40, quai Rambaud, 33-4-78-40-40-40; docks40 .com). Opened in 2010, the industrial chic restaurant-lounge is a sea of barstools, tables and rushing servers until midnight. Then, the furniture gets cleared, the dancing starts, and the D.J.-spun music —soul, disco and house—explodes.IfamagnumofCristal Roderer (1,100 euros) is too steep, a glass of Tattinger bubbly (10 euros) alsogetsthepartystarted. Sunday 10a.m. • 11 PlaytheMarkets The aromas are fresh at the lively and crowded Marché St.-Antoine (Quai St.- Antoine and Quai des Célestins): ripe cheese, baked bread, pungent fish, steaming roasted chickens, briny oysters. Jouvray (33-4-74-01-16-85) can furnish hockey pucks of St. Marcellin cheese (1.80 euros for two)and local dry salami (19 euros per kilo), while Côté Desserts (33-4-78-45-19-45) does excellent quince tarts (1.95 euros). After, feed your mind among les bouquinistes —outdoor book dealers—along the adjacent Quai de la Pêcherie. You’ll find hometown authors like Antoine de Saint-Exupéryaswellasvintagemaps, postcards and LPs. You might even chance across works by Stendhal. In Lyon,he’sneverfarfromthefood. Æ
FORAGING OldMontreal LooksBeyond TheTourists FORdecades,periodarchitectureandpristinecobblestonestreetshave keptOldMontrealwelltroddenbytourists.Butthisgraciouswaterfront area,datingbackcenturies,isregainingcachetwithlocals,andhigh-end retailhasfollowed.AwesternstretchofnarrowRueSt.Paul,wheresouvenirshopsoncehawkedQuébécoiskitsch,hasbecomeanunlikelyhub forhighfashion.Hugepicturewindowsinrestoredstonebuildingsnowshowcase of-the-momentlookstorivalthehippestthatNewYorkorParishavetooffer—all withaninsouciantMontrealtwist. MICHAELKAMINER Y REBORN 231,rueSt.Paul Ouest (514)499-8549 reborn.ws BrigitteChartrand’s pint-sizeboutique castsagiantshadow,withunerringradarfornext-bigthingdesignerslike BorisBidjanSaberi formen,andRaquel Allegraforwomen. From250to5,000 Canadiandollars. PHOTOGRAPHS BY YANNICK GRANDMONT FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES THENEWYORKTIMES,SUNDAY, APRIL15,2012 Z Montreal RUEST.- PAULOUEST Uandi Quai 417 RUENOTRE- DAMEOUEST Reborn RUEST.- PIERREOUEST SSENSE Boutique Boutique Denis Gagnon St. Lawrence River THE NEW YORK TIMES UANDI 215,rueSt.PaulOuest (514)508-7704 boutiqueuandi.com UpdatedAmericanafromlabelslikePoloRalphLauren,EngineeredGarments,PenfieldandLevi’sMade &Craftedfillsthissmall,spartanshop.From115to 1,475Canadiandollars. Z [ Z SSENSEBOUTIQUE 90,rueSt.PaulOuest (514)289-1906 ssense.com Thislocallybasedonline destinationforlabelhounds nowhasitsfirstboutique. Industrialsteelaccentsand reclaimed-woodfloorshighlighthigh-ticketwaresfrom MarcJacobs,Proenza Schouler,KrisVanAssche andLanvin.Pricesfrom150 to5,000Canadiandollars (aboutthesameinU.S.dollars). TR 11 BOUTIQUEDENISGAGNON 170B,rueSt.PaulOuest (514)935-6360 denisgagnon.ca TheentiretyofDenisGagnon’s hard-edgedbutsensuouscollection,includingleather-accented eveningwear,isproducedinthis bunkerlikestore-cum-workshop beneaththechicLePetitHôtel. From120to1,300dollars. QUAI417 417,rueSt.Pierre (514)419-3848 quai417.com PhilippeDubuc,knownfor includingsubversivedetails likeslashedshirtcuffsinhis designs,openedthismultibrandboutiqueafewsteps northoftheSt.Paulstripin November.Hiscreations shareyellowcube-shaped “racks”withEuropeanlabelslikeJeanColonna,AF VandevorstandPremiata. From195to995dollars.
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