A Spanish Island Idyll
A Spanish Island Idyll
A Spanish Island Idyll
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10 TR THENEWYORKTIMES,SUNDAY, APRIL15,2012<br />
BySETHSHERWOOD<br />
‘‘<br />
Iknowofonlyonethingthatyou<br />
candowellinLyon,andthat’s<br />
eat,”the19th-centuryFrench<br />
novelistStendhalremarked.<br />
Twocenturieslater,theimage<br />
ofFrance’sthird-largestmetropolisis<br />
stillburiedunderaheapoffood.No<br />
surprise.France’smostcelebrated<br />
chef,theoctogenarianPaulBocuse,<br />
hailsfromLyon,andthecity’sbouchons—homeyrestaurantsserving<br />
rustic,traditionalcuisine—arefamous<br />
countrywide.Butonceyoushoveloff<br />
thetonsofbloodsausageandSt.Marcellincheese,youfindfarmorethana<br />
picturesquefeedingzone.Thegateway<br />
totheAlpsenfoldsRomanruins,Renaissance-eraarchitecture,abundantartspaces,talentedyoungdesigners,renovatedriverfrontsandafast-rising<br />
neighborhoodoffuturisticarchitecture.<br />
Better,anewgenerationofchefsis<br />
bringingLyonnaisecuisineintothe21st<br />
century.EvenMr.Bocuseisadaptingto<br />
thenewmillennium:Herecently<br />
openedhisfirstdesignhotel.<br />
Friday<br />
3p.m.<br />
• 1 HeadUpriver<br />
An ambitious plan to renovate the<br />
banks of Lyon’s rivers, the Rhône and<br />
the Saône, kicked off in 2007. Exhibit A<br />
is the promenade along the Rhône on<br />
the Rive Gauche, a favorite of walkers,<br />
runners,cyclistsandloafers.Forlovely<br />
views, start at the reflecting pools<br />
along Quai Claude Bernardand head<br />
north. Along Quai Victor Augagneur,<br />
check the posters outside floating<br />
nightclubs like Ayers Rock Boat for the<br />
weekend’s agenda. Beyond Pont Wilson,<br />
the boat-cafe called La Passagère<br />
(Quai Victor Augagneur; 33-4-72-73-36-<br />
98) is a cozy spot for hot chocolate (3<br />
euros, or $3.90 at $1.30 to the euro) or a<br />
Kronenbourg (6 euros). From there,<br />
walk or take the 171 bus (1.60 euros) up<br />
toParcdelaTêted’Or,withponds,gardensandforestedtrails.<br />
5p.m.<br />
• 2 TrashandTreasures<br />
Oversize refuse welcomes you to the<br />
Musée d’Art Contemporain de Lyon<br />
(Cité Internationale; 81, quai Charles<br />
de Gaulle, 33-4-72-69-17-17; mac-lyon<br />
.com),whichabutsParcdelaTêted’Or.<br />
Wang Du’s “World Markets” is a silveryinterpretationofacrumpledfinancial<br />
newspaper, while Olivier Mosset<br />
has taken old stone slabs —thought to<br />
be remnants of Paris’s Bastille prison<br />
—andpiledthemlikediscardsawaiting<br />
the junk heap. The Art Deco building,<br />
modified by Renzo Piano, displays topnotch<br />
contemporary shows. A retrospective<br />
devoted to the cartoonish<br />
paintings of the French artist Robert<br />
CombasrunsthroughJuly15;8euros.<br />
8p.m.<br />
• 3 Dial‘M’forMeals<br />
Phone and reserve at Magali et Martin<br />
(11,ruedesAugustins;33-4-72-00-88-01;<br />
magalietmartin.fr), named for the<br />
young French-Austrian couple who<br />
ownthisquietlystylishlittlerestaurant.<br />
AformercookatParis’srenownedTaillevent,<br />
Martin Schmied changes the<br />
menu constantly, mixing the rustic and<br />
the modern. Wild boar? It appears as<br />
terrine with marinated mushrooms.<br />
Pheasant? Makes cameos in a consomméwithfoiegras.Specialmentiongoes<br />
to the blood sausage served in small<br />
pastry-likeshellsandtotheguineafowl<br />
that is poached, then roasted, imparting<br />
an exceptional succulence. Dinner<br />
fortwo,withoutwine,isabout70euros.<br />
11p.m.<br />
• 4 LyonnaiseLibations<br />
Food claims the spotlight in Lyon, but<br />
drinks are doing their own diva act,<br />
thanks to a nascent cocktail scene.<br />
James Brown and Frank Sinatra haunt<br />
Soda (7, rue de la Martinière; soda-bar<br />
.fr). Their jailhouse mug shots and others’<br />
decorate this dark, plush den,<br />
where 9 euros gets you a spicy Slum<br />
Dog Millionaire (Bombay gin, cherry<br />
jam,lemonjuice,redvermouthandcardamom)<br />
or smooth Globetrotter (pisco,<br />
elderflower liqueur, lemon juice and<br />
Aperol). Nearby, the strains of old<br />
American jazz fill L’Antiquaire (20, rue<br />
Hippolyte Flandrin; 33-6-34-21-54-65;<br />
theantiquaryroom.com) where bowtiedbartendersserveupseasonalcocktailslikeMarco’sBacardiFizz(Bacardi<br />
rum, green chartreuse, lime juice, lemon<br />
juice, sugar syrup, cream, egg white<br />
andsoda),afoamycitricblast.<br />
Saturday<br />
10a.m.<br />
• 5 CelluloidHeroes<br />
Thestreetnamesaysitall:RueduPremier<br />
Film. There, on March 19, 1895,<br />
Louis Lumièreactivated the “Cinématographe”<br />
that he had designed with<br />
hisbrother,Auguste,andrecordeda50second<br />
film of employees leaving their<br />
family’sphoto-platefactory.Andsocinema<br />
was born. The Institut Lumière<br />
(25, rue du Premier Film; 33-4-78-78-18-<br />
95; institut-lumiere.org) pays homage<br />
36Hours<br />
Lyon,France<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS BY REBECCA MARSHALL FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES<br />
FROMLEFTAttheSodacocktailbar;abargeontheSaôneRiver;LeThéâtred’Ombres(“ShadowPlay”)displayattheInstitutLumière,whichpayshomagetotheearlyhistoryofmoviemaking.<br />
IfYouGo<br />
Openedlastfallnearthemain<br />
trainstation,AllSeasonsPartDieu<br />
(54,ruedelaVillette;33-4-72-68-25-<br />
40;all-seasons-hotels.com)has99<br />
nonsmokingrooms,abrasserieand<br />
abar.Doublesfrom75euros($98).<br />
OneofPaulBocuse’smostrecent<br />
concoctionsisDockOuest(39,rue<br />
desDocks;33-4-78-22-34-34;<br />
dockouest.com),adesignhotelwith<br />
43roomsandsuitesoutfittedwith<br />
LigneRosetfurnishings.Mr.Bocuse’sOuestExpress(ouestexpress.com)restaurantistwosteps<br />
away.Doublesfrom75euros.<br />
FLORIDA<br />
SOUTHBEACH<br />
AVALONHOTEL * * SOUTHSEASHOTEL<br />
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AVALON SOUTHSEAS<br />
800-933-3306 www.atlanticstars.com 800-345-2678<br />
MASSACHUSETTS<br />
CranwellResort,SpaandGolfClub<br />
Lenox,Berkshires. OneofthelargestspasintheNortheast!<br />
IndoorPool.HistoricGolfCourse.Spa&GetawayPackages.<br />
Nearshopping&NormanRockwellMuseum.2.5Hoursfrom<br />
NYC.www.cranwell.com/NYT 800-272-6935<br />
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ADIRONDACKS-TIMBERLOCK<br />
Uniquelakesideresort,comfortablecabins,threeexcellent<br />
mealsdaily,family-friendly,superbwaterfront,lotsofactivities.<br />
Season-JunetoOctober<br />
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MANHATTAN - RIVERSIDETOWERHOTEL<br />
$124./Roomfor1person.Doubles$129.<br />
Suites$139.-$159.LincolnCtrarea,HudsonRiverviews,18flrs,<br />
kit'ette,5mintoMidtown,safe,quiet,luxarea.Riverside/80th<br />
Freebrochure.800-724-3136orwww.riversidetowerhotel.com<br />
PENNSYLVANIA<br />
DockOuest<br />
Docks 40 10<br />
Rue le Bec<br />
1/2MILE<br />
PhiladelphiaBoutiqueHotelfrom$129<br />
Greatdowntownlocationwithdesignerrooms,privatebath,<br />
DirectTVwith8compmoviechannels,comp24hrfitness<br />
center,breakfastbuffet.AlexanderInn,Spruceat12thSt.<br />
TollFree(877)ALEXINN www.alexanderinn.com<br />
CARIBBEAN<br />
ANannyMoment<br />
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Call1-800-654-1337orvisitwww.fdrholidays.com<br />
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St.Maarten -www.beachsidevillas.com<br />
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Perfectvacationallyear!CallOwnerYolanda313-884-7706<br />
PRIVATEVILLA,TORTOLA,BELMONTESTATES,BVI.<br />
Oceanfrontvilla,4bedrooms/4bathrooms,270degreeviews.<br />
Stepsawayfromsomeoftheglobesmostpristinewhite<br />
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WEBSITETORTOLABVIVILLA.COM<br />
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QUAIRAMBAUD<br />
9<br />
RUEDESDOCKS<br />
Au 14 Fevrier<br />
Saône<br />
River<br />
Soda<br />
to the early history of moviemaking.<br />
The brothers’ Art Nouveau mansion is<br />
now a museum (6.50 euros) that shows<br />
original Lumière films and displays the<br />
famous Cinématographe and other earlyfilmmakingdevices,includingaboxy<br />
woodenEdisonKinetoscope.Nextdoor,<br />
theformerfactoryisnowatheaterwith<br />
arosterofinternationalfilmclassics.<br />
12:30p.m.<br />
• 6 FrapaneseFood<br />
Like a love hotel bedroom, mirrors line<br />
the ceiling of Au 14 Fevrier (6, rue<br />
Mourguet; 33-4-78-92-91-39; au14fevrier<br />
.com), a tiny jewel-box restaurant that<br />
opened in 2009. And, as in a love hotel,<br />
those mirrors reflect near-orgasmic reactions<br />
from the delighted clients below.<br />
The stimulation is provided by the<br />
chef Tsuyoshi Arai, a Tokyo transplant<br />
wholandedaMichelinstarthisyearfor<br />
what he calls “la cuisine Française<br />
MadeinJapan.”Themenuchangesdaily<br />
but recently included blood pudding<br />
sheathedindarkchocolatetubes,warm<br />
foie gras with strawberry vinegar and<br />
cooked figs, and roasted pheasant with<br />
colorful vegetables cut to resemble<br />
gumdrops.Ninecoursesfor75euros.<br />
3p.m.<br />
• 7 GargoylesandLard<br />
A Renaissance-era, Unesco-listed balade<br />
digestive —digestive walk —<br />
6<br />
4<br />
Village des Créateurs/<br />
Morgan Kirch/<br />
Blue Mustach Shop<br />
8<br />
LaCroixRousse<br />
L’Antiquaire<br />
Terre Adélice<br />
Cathedral of St.-<br />
Jean-Baptiste 7<br />
QUAICELESTINS<br />
Montrochet<br />
11<br />
Rhône<br />
River<br />
QUAICHARLES<br />
DEGAULLE<br />
Magali et Martin<br />
3<br />
QUAIDELA<br />
PECHERIE<br />
QUAI<br />
SAINT<br />
ANTOINE<br />
Marché<br />
St.- Antoine<br />
Cité<br />
Internationale<br />
COURSFRANKLIN<br />
ROOSEVELT<br />
1 La Passagère<br />
QUAIVICTOR<br />
AUGAGNEUR<br />
QUAICLAUDE<br />
BERNARD<br />
150MILES<br />
Bordeaux<br />
SPAIN<br />
PARCDELA<br />
TÊTED’OR<br />
awaits in the cobbled alleys of Vieux<br />
Lyon. Built when the city was a rich<br />
silk-makingcenter,theneighborhoodis<br />
known for the Cathedral of St.-Jean-<br />
Baptiste (8, place St.-Jean; cathedrale<br />
-lyon.cef.fr). The facade is decorated<br />
with 25 gargoyles, 36 prophets and patriarchs,<br />
36 martyrs and saints and 72<br />
angels —but who’s counting? —while<br />
the interior contains a towering astronomical<br />
clock topped by automatons of<br />
humansandangels.(Thewholeensemble<br />
goes into motion when the clock<br />
strikes 12, 2, 3 and 4 p.m.)If your stroll<br />
makes you hungry, the artisanal ice<br />
creams at Terre Adélice (1, place de la<br />
Baleine, 33-4-78-03-51-84; terre-adelice<br />
.eu)comeinunexpectedflavors.<br />
5p.m.<br />
• 8 TimetoGetCreative<br />
With its steep staircase-streets and Bohemian<br />
vibe, La Croix Rousse recalls<br />
Paris’s Montmartre district. The neighborhood’s<br />
creative heart is the Village<br />
des Créateurs (Passage Thiaffait, 19<br />
Rue René Leynaud, 33-4-78-27-37-21;<br />
villagedescreateurs.com), an alley of<br />
local design boutiques. Morgan Kirch<br />
(morgankirch.fr) makes sophisticated<br />
dark-hued women’s wear like black<br />
minivests sprouting feathers (230<br />
euros). Mixing the sensibilities of Pop<br />
Art and graffiti, the T-shirts (39 euros)<br />
at the Blue Mustach Shop<br />
(bluemustach.com) sport playful images<br />
of Karl Lagerfeld, Jean-Michel<br />
2<br />
COURSGAMBETTA<br />
FRANCE<br />
ANDORRA<br />
Lyon<br />
Saône<br />
River<br />
Lyon<br />
Musée d’Art<br />
Contemporain<br />
de Lyon<br />
COURSVITTON<br />
All Seasons<br />
Part Dieu<br />
RUEDELA<br />
VILLETTE<br />
RUEDU<br />
PREMIERFILM<br />
Rhône<br />
River<br />
Marseille<br />
Mediterranean Sea<br />
Institut<br />
Lumière<br />
5<br />
SWITZ.<br />
ITALY<br />
THE NEW YORK TIMES<br />
ONLINE:READERS’THOUGHTS<br />
SeeaslideshowofLyon,andshare<br />
yoursuggestionsonwheretostay,<br />
wheretoeatandwhattodo.<br />
travel.nytimes.com/lyon<br />
Basquiatandotherstyleicons.<br />
8p.m.<br />
• 9 PickNic<br />
Take Tramway line T1 to Montrochet,<br />
walk west on Rue Paul Montrochet and<br />
head toward the postmodernist building<br />
resembling a block of orange<br />
cheese. This is La Confluence (lyon<br />
-confluence.fr), a formerly downbeat<br />
docklands that is now sprouting futuristic<br />
new structures. The best food is<br />
foundatRueLeBec(43QuaiRambaud,<br />
33-4-78-92-87-87; nicolaslebec.com), a<br />
sprawling restaurant with a wine bar,<br />
bakeryandfine-foodboutique.Itcomes<br />
courtesyofNicolasLeBec,theheadliner<br />
of the new generation of Lyon chefs.<br />
Themenuisaglobaljourneythatstarts<br />
in Lyon —andouillette sausage, tête de<br />
veau —with stopovers in Spain (Iberian<br />
ham with tomato bread), Italy (eggplant<br />
topped with mozzarella), Japan<br />
(wagyubeeftappanyaki)andNorthAfrica<br />
(lamb with mint and souk spices).<br />
Threecoursesfortwo,about90euros.<br />
10p.m.<br />
• 10 TieUptotheDock<br />
Follow the scent of after-shave and<br />
D&G perfume to Docks 40 (40, quai<br />
Rambaud, 33-4-78-40-40-40; docks40<br />
.com). Opened in 2010, the industrial<br />
chic restaurant-lounge is a sea of barstools,<br />
tables and rushing servers until<br />
midnight. Then, the furniture gets<br />
cleared, the dancing starts, and the<br />
D.J.-spun music —soul, disco and<br />
house—explodes.IfamagnumofCristal<br />
Roderer (1,100 euros) is too steep, a<br />
glass of Tattinger bubbly (10 euros)<br />
alsogetsthepartystarted.<br />
Sunday<br />
10a.m.<br />
• 11 PlaytheMarkets<br />
The aromas are fresh at the lively and<br />
crowded Marché St.-Antoine (Quai St.-<br />
Antoine and Quai des Célestins): ripe<br />
cheese, baked bread, pungent fish,<br />
steaming roasted chickens, briny oysters.<br />
Jouvray (33-4-74-01-16-85) can furnish<br />
hockey pucks of St. Marcellin<br />
cheese (1.80 euros for two)and local<br />
dry salami (19 euros per kilo), while<br />
Côté Desserts (33-4-78-45-19-45) does<br />
excellent quince tarts (1.95 euros). After,<br />
feed your mind among les bouquinistes<br />
—outdoor book dealers—along<br />
the adjacent Quai de la Pêcherie. You’ll<br />
find hometown authors like Antoine de<br />
Saint-Exupéryaswellasvintagemaps,<br />
postcards and LPs. You might even<br />
chance across works by Stendhal. In<br />
Lyon,he’sneverfarfromthefood. Æ
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