A Spanish Island Idyll

MINORCA, the first place in Spain to see 

the sun rise, is aglow at the end of the 

day. As I pulled my suitcase down the 

cobbled,car-freelanesofCiutadella,the 

island’s ancient capital, an ocher glow 

bloomed across the faces of residents who sat on the 

terracesofback-streetbars,theirvoicesechoingwithinacanyonofGothicandBaroquebuildings. 

The facades of rose and dusty yellow stone, and 

the narrow streets running past them have barely 

changed since 1722, the year British occupiers took 

thetitleofcapitalawayfromthistownontheMediterraneanislandofMinorcaandhandedittotheportcity 

Minorca 

ASpanishIslandIdyll 

of Mahon. Ciutadella, to this day, remains a paean to 

unalteredantiquity. 

The rest of the island is imbued with the same 

timeless quality. Though only 21 miles from the 

crowds and hustle of its high-profile neighbor, Majorca, 

the difference couldn’t be more profound. Unlike 

Majorca, with its sprawling hotel complexes, glitzy 

nightclubs and yacht-filled ports, this island 250 

mileseastofBarcelonaofferssomethingunusualfora 

Mediterraneanresort:tranquillity. 

Theentire270-square-mileislandisaUnescobiosphere 

reserve, a designation issued in 1993 for the 

rich flora and fauna that thrive in Minorca’s forests, 

gorges, wetlands, salt marshes and hillsides. In 2004 

Unesco expanded its protective reach, including in its 

definition the island’s widely scattered prehistoric 

sites, effectively preventing the construction of highrise 

condominiums and hotels. Instead, rural hotels 

called agrotourismos are the hotels of choice outside 

the towns, and roughly 120 separate beaches— more 

than Majorca and Ibiza (Minorca’s other Balearic island 

sister) combined — remain largely unsullied by 

development. 

But there is also a cultural dimension to Mi- 

SUNDAY, APRIL15,2012 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LOURDES SEGADE FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES 

TOPEntrancetoParcNaturaldeS’AlbuferadesGrau.ABOVEFROMLEFTTheislandhasabout120beaches;prehistoricstonestructuresabound;ClaraMercadallivesinMahon. 

Thenightclubsandyachtsaresomewhereelse.Insteadyoufindruralinns,timeless 

townsandagloriouslywildMediterraneanlandscape. BYSARAHWILDMAN 

SearchinginLima 

FortheBestofPisco, 

Peru’sNationalTipple. 

BY ANDY ISAACSON 8 

PracticalTraveler: 

WhentoBuyThat 

PlaneTicket. 

BY MICHELLE HIGGINS 3 

Y 

ContinuedonPage6 

InLyon,RiverWalks, 

Gargoylesand 

WarmFoieGras. 

BY SETH SHERWOOD 10 

SÃO PAULO 4 TEL AVIV 5 PINECRAFT, FLA. 5 MOGANSHAN, CHINA 9 MONTREAL 11

2 TR THENEWYORKTIMES,SUNDAY, APRIL15,2012 

NICK BRIGGS/PBS, VIA AP 

OntheWeb 

FRUGALTRAVELER 

SethKugelexploresPacificIslandercultureinAuckland,New 

Zealand. 

nytimes.com/frugaltraveler 

GLOBESPOTTERS 

Ourcorrespondentsreportonan 

ArtSpiegelmanexhibitionin 

Paris,theopeningofHighclere, 

thecastleusedtofilmtheseries 

“DowntonAbbey”(above)near 

London,andCultureWeekin 

Rome. 

nytimes.com/globespotters 

ONFACEBOOK 

FollowtheNewYorkTimesTravelsectiononFacebook. 

facebook.com/nytimestravel 

WHYWETRAVEL 

Sendusthebestphotosfrom 

yourrecenttravels.Somewillappearintheprinteditionofthe 

Travelsection,andinanonline 

slideshow. 

submit.nytimes.com 

/why-we-travel 

MICHELE TANTUSSI/BLOOMBERG NEWS 

TravelWiththeTate 

To SeetheWorld’sArt 

TheTategalleriesoftendisplay 

artfromaroundtheworld.Now, 

theartsinstitutionishopingto 

takeitsvisitorsontheroad,as 

partofTateTravels,aseriesof14 

tripsrelatedtotheartsorganized 

inpartnershipwiththeUltimate 

TravelCompany. 

Thefirstjourney,inMay, isa 

four-daytriptoSt.Ives,where 

thetouroffersaprivateviewing 

ofthesummerexhibitionatthe 

Tategallerythere.(£895,$1,420at 

$1.59tothepoundperperson.) 

Amongothertrips:avisitto 

ParisandChampagneinSeptember,accompaniedbyTate’swinebuyerandaTateModerncurator,andafive-nightstaynextyearinBerlin,wherevisitsincludevariousgalleriesandthe 

BrandenburgGate,above. 

Agoalbeyondartisevident. 

“Everyexpert-ledtourbooked 

willbenefitTatefinancially,contributingvitalfundstosupport 

ourmissiontoincreasepublic 

knowledge,understandingand 

enjoymentofBritish,modernand 

contemporaryart,”AlexBeard, 

itsdeputydirector,saidina 

statement. MONICADRAKE 

InTransit 

HighlightsfromInTransit,ablogontravelnews,dealsandtipswrittenbythe 

editorsandreportersoftheTravelsection,atnytimes.com/intransit. 

DANIEL KRIEGER FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES 

StarwoodRewardsOffer: 

BiddingforFoodies 

StarwoodHotels&Resorts 

(starwoodhotels.com)hasintroducedaslateofrewardsforfoodieswhoaremembersofitsloyaltyprogram.Aspartofaforayintoculinaryawards,theStarwoodPreferredGuestprogram 

(spg.com)isofferingthechance 

tobidonrewardslikeasushimakingclasswiththechefMasaharuMorimotoordinnerwith 

ThomasKelleratPerSe(diners, 

above). 

Ratesvary,butinthecaseofa 

May2dinnerwithDanielBoulud 

atDanielrestaurantinNewYork, 

bidscurrentlystartat6,500 

pointsfortwodiners.Theprogram,whichisfreetojoin, 

awardstwoorthreepointsper 

dollarspentonovernightstays 

dependingonmembershiplevels, 

whicharebasedonthecumulativenumberofnightsspent. 

Point-poormembersmaynot 

beabletodinewithcelebrity 

chefs,butthenewprogramalso 

offersdiningdiscountsof10to30 

percentatover500restaurants 

andbarsaroundtheworld,in 

Starwood’s1,090hotelsrununder 

theSt.Regis,theLuxuryCollection,W,Westin,LeMéridien,Sheraton,FourPointsbySheraton,AloftandElementbrands. 

ELAINEGLUSAC 

FAIRMONT HOTELS & RESORTS 

DrinksforBellyingUpto 

TheBarWithLessBelly 

Vacationisn’ttheidealtimeto 

startcountingcalories,butfor 

hotelguestsstillpreparingforbikiniseason,FairmontHotels& 

Resortsdoesn’tseewhyyou 

shouldn’thaveyourcocktailand 

loseweighttoo.Its“skinny 

drink”initiativehasencouraged 

bartendersatseveralofitshotels 

andrestaurantstoofferdrinks 

withfewercaloriesandhealthier 

ingredientsthisspring. 

InVancouver,theFairmontPacificRim’slobbyloungeisservingaBaliHai(above),pear- 

and 

thyme-infusedginmixedwith 

freshlime,ginsengtincture,coconutwaterandagavenectarinsteadofsimplesyrup,makingit 

lessthan200calories.TheRoyal 

YorkinTorontohasdevelopeda 

seriesof“SkinnySips,”each250 

caloriesorless,madefrom 

house-madesugar-freeliqueurs, 

freshherbsfromitsrooftopgardenandhoneyfromitsbeehives.“Let’sbehonest,ifyou’rereallycountingcalories,youprobablyshouldn’tbedrinking,” 

Lori 

Holland,theexecutivedirectorof 

publicrelationsatFairmont,said. 

“Butthat’snofun.Withthese 

drinks,you’regettingyourcake, 

justinadifferentway.” 

RACHELLEEHARRIS 

Letters 

TheFlyingLaptop 

TotheEditor:Regarding“TheMysteryoftheFlyingLaptop”(April8), 

myguessisthattheT.S.A.“logic” 

datesfromthedayswhenlaptops 

werethickerandthebatterypacks 

might,theoretically,havebeenreplacedbyexplosives.Thismightexplainwhy,atonepoint,theymade 

passengersturnonlaptopsand 

phonestodemonstratethey 

worked.However,boththeshrinkingthicknessandlackofanyevidencethatanyonehasbeencaught 

withadangerouslaptoprenderall 

this“securitytheater”moot.The 

absurdhysteriathathasparalyzed 

theUnitedStateswithfearsince 

9/11isthesourceofthismultibillion 

dollarwasteoftime,moneyand 

goodsense. NORMANMcDOUGALL 

ThunderBay, Ontario 

TotheEditor:Therulesaresimple 

—takeoffyourjackets,shoesand 

belts.Putyourlaptopandanytoiletriesinthebin,andyou’redone.TheonlypeopleIseewhohaveproblemswiththeT.S.A.areeithertotallyunorganizedorlookingfor 

trouble. JOHNTACKEFF 

Fairfax,Va. 

TotheEditor:Rulesthatmakeno 

senseorareinconsistentlyapplied 

alwaysleavethedooropenforsuddenandimpulsivesecuritymeasures,preciselywhatthebadguys 

hate.Asonesecurityagenttoldme, 

“Ifwewerepredictable,itwouldbe 

verydangerous.”That’swhyyou’ll 

seethesameruleapplieddifferently 

atvariousairports. 

STEVECOURMANOPOULOS 

Pointe-Claire,Quebec 

CORRECTIONS 

A picture credit last Sunday with 

the 36 Hours column, about Mendoza, 

Argentina, misspelled the given 

name of the photographer. Nicolas 

Wormull, not Nicholas, took the picturesofapark,acoupledancingthe 

tangoandawinetastingroom. 

• 

The Check In/Check Out column 

last Sunday, about the Nun Assisi 

Relais hotel in Assisi, Italy, gave an 

incorrect Web site for the hotel. It is 

nunassisi.com.

PRACTICAL TRAVELER 

WhentoBuyThatPlaneTicket 

ByMICHELLEHIGGINS 

WHEN is the best 

timetobookthat 

flight?It’soneof 

the most fraught 

decisions travelers 

face, as ticket prices often 

fluctuate right up to departure 

time. 

Recent fare analysis by the 

Airlines Reporting Corporation 

seems to challenge the conventional 

wisdom that the earlier 

youbook,thelessexpensiveyour 

fare will be. In January, the corporation, 

which processes ticket 

transactionsforairlinesandtravel 

agencies, reported that over 

the past four years passengers 

paidthelowestpricefordomestic 

flights when buying just about 

sixweeksinadvance. 

To determine if that six-week 

sweetspotwouldholdtrueforinternational 

routes, I asked the 

companytoanalyzefaresforseveraltrips,likeasummervacation 

to Europe and a winter escape in 

Last-minutedeals 

arehardertofind 

thisyear. 

theCaribbean. 

Not only did the six-week period 

fail to stand up, but the findings 

indicate that the window for 

booking the cheapest ticket for 

these trips has increased over 

the past three years; in some 

casesit’supto24weeks. 

“Consumers have been getting 

the best prices a bit further out 

year over year,” said Chuck 

Thackston, managing director of 

data and analytics at the Airlines 

ReportingCorporation. 

Sure, it’s possible that if travelers 

pull back on spending, airlines 

will be forced to cut prices, 

allowing travelers to nab a cheap 

summer flight to, say, Barcelona, 

aslittleasthreeweeksout. 

“Iftheydon’tseebookingsmaterialize 

the way they’d like, they 

will put the route on sale,” said 

Henry H. Harteveldt, a travel industryanalyst. 

But Mr. Harteveldt and other 

travel watchers agree that booking 

well in advance is a safe bet. 

So far this year, airlines have 

raised rates three times, said 

Rick Seaney, chief executive of 

Farecompare.com, which tracks 

ticket prices. “I think pricing is 

going to be crazy,” particularly 

thissummer,hesaid. 

So if you place stock in historical 

trends, the message is clear: 

actnow. 

For guidance, here are the 

booking windows during which 

passengers paid the lowest price 

for flights to popular vacation 

destinations last year, based on 

data from the Airlines Reporting 

Corporation. 

EuropeinSummer 

LAST YEAR’S SWEET SPOT: 21 TO 

22 WEEKSIN ADVANCE You may 

already be too late to score a 

cheap flight to Europe this summer. 

The booking window for the 

cheapest tickets has moved further 

out, from 11 or 12 weeks in 

advance in 2009 to 21 or 22 weeks 

in2011.(Averageround-tripfares 

rose to about $1,500 last year 

from $1,100 in 2009; this year’s 

outlookisnobetter.) 

To boost your savings, take the 

least expensive route to Europe 

you can find. Then concentrate 

on getting to your ultimate stop 

cheaply. 

“I look into the cheapest fare 

into a hub like Berlin,” said 

George Hobica, founder of 

Airfarewatchdog.com, which 

scours the Web for bargains. 

“ThenIfigureitoutfromthere.” 

He said this may involve taking 

the train or flying a budget 

carrier like easyJet or Ryanair to 

the final destination. Spanish airports 

like Madrid tend to be 

cheaperthanLondonorParis,he 

said. Dublin and Shannon also 

tend to be cheaper jumping-off 

points. 

Whatever you do, don’t wait 

until the last minute. Last year, 

average fares for tickets pur- 

THENEWYORKTIMES,SUNDAY, APRIL15,2012 

chased less than a week before 

travel were about $2,600, almost 

double the price of those bought 

atleast28daysinadvance.Andif 

you’revisitingLondonduringthe 

Olympic Games, July 27 through 

Aug.12,expecttopayapremium. 

CaribbeaninWinter 

LAST YEAR’S SWEET SPOT: 11 OR 

12 WEEKS In 2009 and 2010, the 

cheapest airfares went to procrastinators 

who purchased tickets 

just two weeks in advance at 

a saving of about 8 percent. But 

last year, the pattern took a sudden 

shift, with the cheapest ticketsboughtmuchfurtherahead. 

“Certainly you’ll want to start 

shopping plenty early to get a 

gauge on pricing,” said Mr.Seaney 

of FareCompare, who recommended 

hunting for airfare as 

early as three months in advance, 

especially for hot spots 

like Costa Rica and out-of-theway 

islands, which lack the airline 

competition that tends to 

keeppricesincheck. 

BusinessorFirstClass 

ToAsiaorEurope 

LAST YEAR’S SWEET SPOT: 23 TO 

24 WEEKS While the majority of 

premium travel is purchased by 

business travelers booking within 

six weeks of departure, leisure 

travelers with the flexibility to 

buy well in advance have been 

able to find bargains. Travelers 

paidabout$3,113,orabout20percent 

less than average, when 

buying premium tickets to Asia 

or Europe 23 or 24 weeks ahead 

lastyear. 

A good time to take advantage 

oflowbusiness-classratesisduringpeakvacationtimeslikesummerorthewinterholidays.While 

coach class quickly fills up with 

leisure travelers, the cushy seats 

at the front of the plane can be 

empty. Rather than give those 

seats away as upgrades, airlines 

often try to fill them with sales, 

accordingtoJoeBrancatelli,publisher 

of the travel Web site 

JoeSentMe.com, which alerts 

memberstosuchsales. 

For travel to Europe in summer,forexample,“itlookslikeall 

gateways and all destinations between 

the United States and Europe 

are on sale,” he stated in a 

recent newsletter, with roundtrip 

business classprices as low 

as $2,327 from Newark to Brussels 

and $2,359 from New York to 

Frankfurt, if booked by May 31. 

But, he warned, “Fares seem to 

be higher in August than in July, 

and there are some days when 

prices soar above $4,000 round 

tripfromtheEastCoast.” 

GeneralTips 

LEO ACADIA 

Beyond historical trends, there 

are also some useful online tools 

that can help you evaluate fares. 

For example, Bing.com offers a 

Price Predictor that uses algorithms 

to determine how likely a 

fare is to rise or fall during the 

next seven days. It applies to 

flights from more than 250 cities 

in the United States and to top 

domestic destinations and major 

hubsinEurope. 

If you decide to wait in the 

hopes of a price drop, sign up for 

fare alerts offered by practically 

every travel site, from American 

Airlines to Travelzoo. Yapta.com, 

another price-tracking service, 

alerts travelers when the price of 

theirplaneticketsdropafterpurchase, 

allowing travelers to request 

an airline voucher for the 

pricedifference. 

For the cheapest dates to fly, 

go to Itasoftware.com, which allows 

you to scan an entire 

month’s worth of fares. To buy, 

you must go to the airline’s Web 

siteoronlineagencieslikeTravelocity. 

Finally, buying two one-way 

fares on separate airlines can be 

cheaper than the best round-trip 

price. Kayak.com calls such tickets 

“hacker fares.” A recent 

searchonthesiteforaflightfrom 

Boston to San Juan, P.R., turned 

up a fare of $313 on Delta to San 

Juan, returning on US Airways, 

comparedwith$349roundtripon 

USAirwaysalone. Æ 

Q&A 

AHotelInsider 

SharesSecrets 

AnthonyMelchiorriof“HotelImpossible.” 

THINKofAnthonyMelchiorriasacapeless 

crusaderforailinghotels,swoopingintotroubledpropertiesandconjuringcures.Heisthehostanddrivingforcebehind“HotelImpossible,”anewshowontheTravelChannel,and 

fixingwhatailshotelsisaskillhehasbeenhoningover 

decadesintheindustry.AsgeneralmanageroftheiconicAlgonquininNewYork,heoversawamajorrenovationofthebuildinganditsimage.Heisalsoaformer 

vicepresidentofTishmanHotelsandisthefounderof 

ArgeoHospitality,ahotelmanagementandconsulting 

firm. 

Hereareexcerptsfromaconversationabouthowto 

findagreathotelandwhattoexpect—andsometimes 

demand—fromit. RACHELLEEHARRIS 

Q.What’sthebesthotelyoueverstayedin? 

A.Acleanone. 

Q.Whataresomeofyourfavorites? 

A.IlovetheVenetianinLasVegas,Shuttersonthe 

BeachinSantaMonica.TheWaldorf-Astoria—what 

EricLong,thegeneralmanager,hasbeendoingthereis 

justtremendous.Andwhodoesn’tlovethePlaza? 

WhenIleft,IliterallycriedbecauseIdidn’twantto 

leavethatbuilding. 

Q.Anyboutiquehotelsonyourlist? 

A.TheBenjamin,hereinNewYork,andanyofthe 

Kimptonhotels—theyreallyknowhowtotreattheir 

customersandtheyarealwaysonthecuttingedgeof 

conserving. 

Forbusinesstravel,three-starhotelsaredoinga 

muchbetterjob.They’regettingbettermattresses, 

they’recleaner,andtheyaretheonesgivingyoucomplimentaryInternetandwater.Istilldon’tunderstand 

whyfive-starhotelschargeyouforInternet,when 

that’sthebiggestcomplaintcorporatetravelershavein 

theindustry.IdemandfreeInternetorIwon’tgoback. 

Q.What’sthebestwaytofindagreathotel? 

A.Goonlineandlookatreviews.Ifindthemtobeextraordinarilyaccurate.Gotothird-partyWebsites, 

oyster.comorTripAdvisor. 

Q.Willpeoplegetbetterdealsthroughathirdparty? 

A.Attheendoftheday, bookonthehotel’sWebsite.If 

youfindadealonanothersite,youwillrarelyfindit 

higheratthehotel’s,andyou’llhavemoreflexibility 

withreservations. 

Q.Wherecantravelersfindthebestdeals? 

A.Socialmediaisbigrightnow.Notalotofpeopleare 

bookingthere,butthegoodboutiquehotelsaredoing 

promosontheirFacebooksitesandonTwitter. 

Q.Anytipsforhowtogetagoodrate? 

A.Checkthecompetitors.Ifyouchecktheratesata 

comparablehotelandtheyarelower,thehotelwilloften 

meettheircompetitor’sprice. 

Q.What’sthebestwaytogetanupgrade? 

A.Alwayspackyoursmile.Afrontdeskagenthasalot 

ofcontroloverwhatroomyouhave,soalwaysbepolite 

nomatterhowbadyourtriphasbeen.Theymighttryto 

up-sellyouandofferabetterroomatadiscountedrate. 

Or,ifyou’rereallynice,theymightgiveyouacomplimentaryupgrade,withthehopethatyou’llreturn. 

Q.Whoandwhenshouldyoutip? 

A.Tipyourhousekeepereverydaybecauseit’snotalwaysthesamepersoncleaningyourroom.Ifit’sa 

three-starhotel,give$3or$4;ifit’safour-star,givea 

littlebitmore;ifit’safive-staryoucanafford$20or$30 

aday.Adoormanmakesanhourlywageandit’sless 

thananyoneelse’sinthehotel.Ifhedoeshisjobandis 

makingmylifeeasier,Ialwaystiphim. 

Q.Willyougetbetterserviceifyoutiptheconcierge? 

A.Agoodconciergedoesnotexpectatip.Inbigcities, 

theywon’tputyouinabetterrestaurantbecauseofa 

tip.Ifyou’retryingtogetintothebestrestaurantin 

townorgetticketstoaBroadwayshow,alittletipup 

frontdoesn’thurt. 

TR 3


HEADS UP 

ANA OTTONI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES 

AnexhibitionoftheVenezuelanartistCarlosCruz-DiezisattheGaleriaRaquelArnaudinSãoPaulo,Brazil. 

ArtComesofAgeinSãoPaulo 

BySHIVANIVORA 

ARTgalleriesmightbeamainstay 

in most large cities, but in 

São Paulo they have always 

been in short supply, catering 

to a small elite. But as 

Brazil’s economyhas rapidly expanded 

over the last decade, a new social class 

hasmoredisposableincometospendon 

luxuryitemslikeart. 

Aspateofgallerieshaveopenedinresponse 

to a growing clientele: the number 

participating in SP Arte, the city’s 

Brazilian art fair, for example, has 

grown to 109 this May from 41 in 2005. 

These new spaces, concentrated in Vila 

Madalena, the city’s bohemian hub, and 

the neighboring Pinheiros area, have 

alsoredefinedtheartscene. 

“Art in São Paulo used to be elitist, 

and going gallery-hopping wasn’t a 

common practice,” said Paul Irvine, a 

co-founder of Dehouche, a Latin-America-based 

travel specialist that plans individual 

art tours around the city. “The 

rich would go to galleries, often by appointment, 

and by car, as it wasn’t safe 

towanderthestreets.Thesenewgalleries 

are helping make art more accessibletothegeneralpublic.” 

One of the most notable is Galeria 

Raquel Arnaud (Rue Fidalga125; 55-11- 

3083-6322; raquelarnaud.com/en 

/artistas), a three-story space of more 

than 10,000 squarefeet that opened last 

year.Itsowner,RaquelArnaud,hadhad 

one of the oldest art galleries in São 

Paulo, which she opened in 1973. But as 

the art scene expanded, she needed 

more space to showcase the works of 

the nearly two dozen artists she represents, 

who range from established 

names like the late sculptor Sergio 

Camargo to hot new ones like Frida 

Baranek. 

Baixo Ribeirois another gallery owner 

who was an anomaly when he 

opened his first space, Choque Cultural, 

nearly a decade ago. “Back then, I was 

arenegade,andtherewasnointerestin 

art,” he said. When the art movement 

started to gain traction, however, he 

opened a second location (Rua Medeiros 

de Albuquerque 250; 55-11-3061- 

2365; choquecultural.com.br), which 

highlights the new wave of eclectic artists 

who create immersion art, like videos 

and installations. The gallery itself 

resembles an immersion art experience:thebilevelstarkwhitespacefeels 

likebeinginsideawhitecube. 

Galeria Jaqueline Martins (Rua Dr. 

VirgíliodeCarvalhoPinto74;55-11-2628- 

1943; galeriajaquelinemartins.com/en), 

which opened last year, features the 

works of new and veteran artists at the 

same time instead of having just solo 

exhibitions. “Our goal is to create a discussion 

around emerging artists and 

artists who have been around a while,” 

saidthemanager,GuidoHunn.Thecurrent 

exhibition, for example, has works 

from two artists who do collages: the 

better-known Hudinilson Jr. and upand-comerNinoCais. 

NearbyisAteliêFidalga(RuaFidalga 

299; 55-11-3813-1048; ateliefidalga.com 

.br; by appointment only), a space that 

goes beyond the traditional gallery. It’s 

a collective and atelier run by the husband 

and wife artists Albano Afonso 

and Sandra Cinto. There, emerging artists 

meet one another during group 

classes, and the public can attend talks 

andviewexhibitionsbynewcomersand 

alsohaveachancetomeetwiththem. 

“Thisiswherewework,butit’s alsoa 

place for interaction between artists 

and the people who come see their art,” 

Ms.Cintosaidduringarecentvisit.“We 

feel that there should always be a dialogue 

around art, and that’s what we 

hopewearehelpingtostart.” Æ 

CheckIn/CheckOut 

MONTREAL 

HôtelChezSwann 

THEUPSHOT 

Featuringfurniturebylocaldesigners,periodicartandfashionevents,andadiverseplaylistofmusic-makingguests—JonBonJovi,theWu- 

TangClan—thisplayfullynaughty 

boutiquehoteltries,mostlysuccessfully,toinfusesomebohochicinto 

Montreal’sslightlystiffdowntown. 

Ratesfrom235Canadiandollars 

(aboutthesameinU.S.dollars). 

BASICS 

Almosteverythingishomegrown 

andstylish,fromthelobby’shugecolored-chalkmural(amashupofcontributionsbyartists,guestsandstaff 

members)tothe’30s-retro-futuristic 

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whenittookoverthe 

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withagalaparty. 

LOCATION 

Ifyouwanttogeteducated,cultured,outfitted 

orbody-checked,Chez 

SwanniswalkingdistancetoMcGillUniversity,theMontrealMuseumofFineArts,theboutiquesofRueSte.-CatherineandtheBellCentre— 

homeoftheMontreal 

Canadienshockeyteam. 

ThePeelstationofthe 

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blocksaway;theairport 

expressbus(No.747) 

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THEROOM 

Myroom,No.304,wasoneofthe 

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THEBATHROOM 

Theexpansivebathroom’smarquee 

attractionwasthelargeblack-tile 

stand-upshowerdesignedforcouples 

thatfeaturednotonebuttwofuturisticsilverymultifunctionwatercolumns.Eachonewasequippedwitha 

traditionalshowerhead,ahand-held 

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andfivedifferentknobsanddials. 

Thankstotheglasswallandsome 

overheadbluelights,thetheatrical 

showerisreadytoaccommodateanyoneeagertostageasexysinging-inthe-rainperformanceforapartnerin 

thebedroom. 

AMENITIES 

LePoisPenchéservesasolid 

Frenchmenu(gooeyonionsoup,succulentduckbreast)butismarredby 

COEY KERR 

Afilmstillfrom“SinCity”isprojectedinthe 

receptionareaofChezSwann. 

tackydécor,harshlighting,adistractingtelevisionsetandacharmlessmusicselectionthatveershaphazardly 

fromtechnotosoultorock.Towork 

offtherichcuisine,youronlyoptionis 

asmallbrightroomfilledwithfour 

stationarybicycles,intendedforspinningworkouts.Somewheatgrass 

juicewithachlorophyllsupplement 

fromLiquidNutrition,ajuicebarthat 

adjoinsthelobby,canalsohelp. 

BOTTOMLINE 

Thehotelhasmuchtolike,notably 

itsdedicationtolocalartanddesign,a 

playfulsensibility,generousbathrooms,andproximitytodowntown 

hangoutsandtransportation.Butif 

ChezSwannwantstosoar,thehotel 

deservesacorrespondinglychicrestaurant,afitnesscenterworthyofthe 

name,andperhapsalowerpricetag. 

ChezSwann,1444rueDrummond; 

(877)568-7070;hotelchezswann.com. 

SETHSHERWOOD

Bites 

ByMIKIMEEK 

FROMDecemberthroughApril, 

Amish travelers pack charter 

buses making overnight runs 

from Ohio to Florida. Stiff 

black hats are gingerlystowed 

in overhead bins as the bus winds its 

way throughhillyfarmcountry,making 

pickups in small towns with names like 

Sugarcreek,BerlinandWooster. 

On a recent afternoon, I boarded one 

of those buses, full of grandparents, 

neighbors, sisters and childhood 

friends. They talked into the night, using 

conversation as entertainment insteadofmoviesandmusic.Isatupfront 

next to two boisterous bishops named 

Roy J. C. Yoder, 75, and Andy Miller, 65. 

Theypepperedmewithquestions:“Are 

you married?” “Will you have kids?” 

“DoyoubelieveinChrist?” 

But they mostly killed time on our 19hourridebyribbingLee,oneoftwo 

bus 

driversonboard,andtheneachother. 

“When Roy became preacher, he was 

a little bit of a slow learner, so we sent 

him to seminar school,” Andy told me. 

“They asked him ‘Where was Jesus 

born?’Andhesays‘Pittsburgh.’Sothey 

say ‘Nope, Bethlehem.’ And then Roy 

says,‘IknewitwassomeplaceinPennsylvania.’” 

The rows behind us exploded in 

laughter. We were headed to Pinecraft, 

avillageontheoutskirtsofSarasota,on 

Florida’sgulfcoast.Whatstartedoutas 

a tourist camp around 1925 has evolved 

through word of mouth into a major vacation 

destination for Amish and Mennonites 

from all over the United States 

and Canada. Some 5,000 people visit 

eachyear,primarilywhenfarmworkup 

northisslow. 

On the bus, older passengers reminiscedaboutgoingdowntoPinecraftas 

childrenwhenroadswere justsandand 

dirt.OnemanwistfullyrecalledagreatunclewhohitchedaridedowninaModel 

T. But I didn’t fully understand the 

town’s popularity until we reached the 

end of our 1,222-mile drive, at a small 

church parking lot, where we were 

greeted by more than 300 people under 

a hot Florida sun — bus arrivals are a 

communityeventinPinecraft. 

Walking around Pinecraft is like entering 

an idyllic time warp. White bungalows 

and honeybellorange trees line 

streets named after Amish families: 

Kaufman, Schrock, Yoder. The local 

Laundromatkeepslinesoutsidetohang 

clothes to dry. (You have to bring your 

own pins.) And the techiest piece of 

equipmentatthepostofficeisacalculator. 

The Sarasota county government 

plans to designate the village, which 

spreads out over 178 acres, as a cultural 

heritagedistrict. 

Many travelers I spoke to jokingly 

call it the “Amish Las Vegas,” riffing off 

the cliché that what happens in Pinecraft 

stays in Pinecraft. Cellphone and 

cameras, normally off-limits to Amish, 

occasionally make appearances, and almost 

everyone uses electricity in their 

rental homes. Three-wheeled bicycles, 

instead of horses and buggies, are ubiquitous. 

“When you come down here, you can 

pitch religion a little bit and let loose,” 

said Amanda Yoder, 19,from Missouri. 

TELAVIV 

MizlalabyMeirAdoni 

MeirAdoni,thechefatMizlala,sees 

therestaurantasthe“crazyyounger 

sister”ofhishaute-dining,whitetableclothestablishment,Catit.“Thisoneis 

supposedtogiveyouagoodnightout,” 

hesaid. 

Indeed,MizlalabyMeirAdoni,which 

Mr.AdoniopenedlastJunenearTel 

Aviv’sCarmelMarket,cansometimes 

seemmorelikeawell-designedclub 

“What I’m wearing right now, I wouldn’t 

at home,” she said, gesturing at sunglasseswithsparklyrhinestonesandbikini 

strings peeking out of a tight black 

tank top. On the outskirts of the village, 

she boarded public bus No. 11 with six 

other sunburned teenagers. They were 

bound for Siesta Key, a quartz-sand 

beachabouteightmilesaway. 

After a couple of days, I started to 

pickuptherhythmsofaseasonedPinecraft 

traveler, thanks to tips from a 

chatty Amish-Mennonite woman. I had 

rentedaprivateroomfromherfor$40a 

night. (Most visitors rent homes, which 

oftenbookupayearinadvance,though 

there are a couple of modest hotels in 

theareaaswell.) 

Breakfast starts as early as 6 a.m., 

when men start settling into booths at 

the back of Troyer’s Dutch Heritage, a 

sprawling restaurant about a half-mile 

from the village center. They trade 

news from home over mugs of coffee 

and plates of bacon, eggs and biscuits 

submergedinsausagegravy. 

I chose to join a slightly later-to-rise 

crowd around 7:30 a.m. at Yoder’s Restaurant, 

a small and homey spot that 

serves sweet-tooth-friendly peanut-butter-pie 

pancakes topped with homemade 

whipped cream. Yoder’s also has 

two adjacent markets that sell fresh 

produce and baked goods like whoopie 

pies in a variety of flavors (red velvet, 

oatmeal,pumpkin). 

On a Friday morning, I followed yellow 

fliers to the backyard of the Miller 

family, where I found that most Amish 

of activities: a yard sale and auction. 

Throngs of shoppers inspected long 

rows of plastic tables overflowing with 

an eclectic mix of household goods that 

included a 1979 book on “Modern Refrigeration 

and Repair.” An auctioneer 

standing in the back of a pickup truck 

sold off a box of shoes for $2 and a 

bunchofwrenchesfor$42. 

When the auction started to wane, 

foot traffic migrated over to the shuffleboard 

court at Pinecraft Park in the 

southwest corner of the village. It’s 

open every day but Sunday, and the 

first lane, according to a sign, is always 

“ReservedforLadies.” 

MiriamLehman,60,fromShipshewana, 

Ind., sat on the sidelines dispensing 

advice after playing two games in flipflops. 

“Knock her out of there!” she 

thanarestaurant.Ayoung,T-shirt-clad 

crowddinesonthechef’screativetake 

onpan-MiddleEasterncuisineamida 

minimalistdécor,withthepulseofthe 

latestdancetracksasabackdrop. 

A“goodnightout,”though,wouldn’t 

bepossiblewithoutMr.Adoni’sinspired 

food.Duringarecentvisit,hisPalestiniantartarofferedasplendidtakeonaclassicdish:insteadofusingthetraditionaltrioofeggyolk,anchovyandcapers,heblendedchoppedsteakwith 

tahini,pinenutsandcharredeggplant 

purée.Theevening’sstandoutdishwas 

anotheringeniousvariation,thistime 


JOURNEYS 

WhereAmishSnowbirdsFindaNest 

ShooflytoKeyLime 

GETTINGTHERE 

FromOhio:PioneerTrails 

Bus(800-458-2554; 

pioneertrailsbus.com).One-way 

tickets$137,roundtrip$258). 

FromIndiana:Crossroad 

Tours(260-768-7549; 

crossroadtours.blogspot.com). 

One-waytickets$134,roundtrip 

$250. 

WHERETOEAT 

Yoder’sRestaurant(3434BahiaVistaStreet;941-955-7771;yodersrestaurant.com).Southernfriedchicken,$9.95. 

Yoder’sFreshMarket(3434 

BahiaVistaStreet;941-556-7684; 

yodersrestaurant.com).Soups, 

$2.95;whoopiepie,$1.25. 

Troyer’sDutchHeritageRestaurant(3713BahiaVistaStreet; 

941-955-8007; 

troyersdutchheritage.com). 

Countrybreakfastbuffet,$7.99. 

WHERETOSTAY 

AmericInnSarasota(5931 

FruitvilleRoad;941-342-8778; 

americinnsarasotahotel.com). 

Roomsfrom$99. 

HamptonInnSarasota(5995 

CattleridgeBoulevard;941-371- 

1900;hamptoninnsarasota.com). 

Roomsfrom$129. 

onthesortoffareyou’remorelikelyto 

findinBrooklynthanIsrael:porkbelly 

slow-roastedinwhiskeyandmaple 

syrup,blendedseamlesslywithbarbecuedbutter-flavoredcorn,celery,gingerandfennelsausage. 

AlthoughmostitemsonMizlala’s 

menuarenotkosher(didtheporkbellygiveitaway?),thereareseveralnodstotheJewishkitchen,asinanexpertlypreparedentreeoffriedchickenlivers,portobellomushroomsandpolenta.ThemenualsodrawsonthecuisineofMorocco,whereMr.Adoni’smotherwasborn,andfromIraqiJew- 

ishtradition.AnIraqiversionofkibbeh, 

thetraditionalLevantinedish,was 

filledwithshrimpandgraymulletand 

servedinatoothsome—anddecidedly 

unkosher—stewofpancetta,mussels, 

beetandokra. 

Despitethelounge-likeatmosphere, 

Mizlaladoesbetterwithfoodthancocktails.TheGreyFizz(ginlacedwithEarlGreyteaandlemonjuice)wasquaffable,buttheoddlynamedRosieO’Donnell—“Ithinkshe’safamouswomanin 

theU.K.,” offeredourwaitress—with 

vodka,Aperolandgrapefruitjuice,was 

toopeppery. 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MIKI MEEK 

FROMTOPOnthebeachon 

SiestaKeyinSarasota,Fla.; 

shuffleboardatPinecraftPark 

inPinecraft,longapopular 

winterspotforAmishvisitors; 

theparkinglotofTourist 

ChurchinPinecraft. 

TR 5 

yelledasaPennsylvaniawomannamed 

Ida slid a yellow puck down the court 

and scored. They had met that afternoonandhadbecomefastfriends. 

Set against a backdrop of giant oak 

trees and Spanish moss, Pinecraft Park 

is a melting pot of Amish and Mennonite 

America. Old order, new order and 

nontraditional congregate. Clothing 

choices clue you in to hometowns: Men 

fromTampico,Ill.,weardenimoveralls; 

girls from Lancaster, Pa., cover their 

dresses with black aprons; and women 

from northern Indiana have neatly 

pressedpleatsontheirwhitebonnets. 

“All these groups can mingle down 

here in a way they wouldn’t at home,” 

said Katie Troyer, 59,ayear-round resident 

who left the Amish church but still 

embraces the culture. “That’s a puzzle 

peoplehavebeentryingtofigureoutfor 

ages.” 

Just over three feet tall and always 

riding around on a bike with a camera, 

Ms. Troyer is a beloved fixture in Pinecraft 

known for discreetly taking pictures 

of daily life that she posts on her 

blog,Project365. 

Evenings in Pinecraft almost always 

culminate in music. The Chuck Wagon 

Gang, a gospel and bluegrass band, 

often plays a patch of grass between 

two mobile homes that’s been dubbed 

Birky Square. More than 400 people 

turned out on the night I visited, overflowingintothesurroundingstreetsand 

causingminitrafficjams. 

A giant cast-iron pot of elk stew simmered 

over an open fire while the barefoot 

lead singer of the Chuck Wagon 

Gangharmonizedwithhiswife: 

Beyondthesunset 

Overthesunsetinthatbetterhome 

Angelsarewaitingtocarrymehome 

Oneaudiencemember,AlvaYoder,67, 

from Elnora, Ind., has traveled to Pinecraft 

almost every year since 1972. 

“You’ll never find another place in the 

worldthat’slikethisone,”hesaid. Æ 

Fortunately,therestaurant’screative 

spiritwasmuchinevidencewhendessertsarrived.Aplayfulstandoutwasfudgethatarrivedinaterra-cottaplanter,alongsideaneyedropperofraspberrysauceforthedinertoadd—agimmick,perhaps,butliketherestaurant,a 

bitofquirkyfun. 

MizlalabyMeirAdoni,Nahalat 

Binyamin57;(972-3)566-5505;mizlala 

.co.il/en.Opendailyforlunchanddinner.Athree-coursemealfortwo,withoutdrinksortip,isabout330shekels,or 

$90,at3.65shekelstothedollar. 

RACHELB.DOYLE


FromPage1 

norca’s ecosystem. The island isn’t 

Spanish exactly, nor simply Catalan 

(though Menorquin, a dialect of Catalan, 

is the lingua franca). This pocket of 

old Mediterranean culturewas shaped 

by an array of colonizers — Romans, 

North Africans, Spanish and, for a brief 

period,theTurkish.Thentheislandwas 

passed back and forth for 200 years between 

the Spanish, the British and the 

French, until finally the Spanish 

claimedtheislandforgood.Architecturally, 

the result is a legacy that includes 

ArtNouveau,Gothic,Baroqueandeven 

Georgian styles. Cuisine ranges from a 

modifiedversionofmeatpiesandgin(à 

la England) to the potato-and-egg tortilla 

of Spain, to good old mayonnaise — 

ostensiblyatwistonalocalsaucechampioned 

by the Duke of Richelieu when 

theFrench(briefly)conqueredMahon. 

Last June, my partner, Ian, our 

daughter, Orli, then 2, and my parents 

arrivedforaweek,hopingtogetasense 

of Minorca’s singular identity. We flew 

in to Mahon, the island’s biggest town, 

where we rented a car and then wove 

our way to the opposite side of the island, 

stopping for lunch in Fornells, a 

fishing village on the northern coast 

where old men dried manzanilla, or 

chamomile, in enormous piles. A few 

touristsstrolledtheoldport,stoppingto 

eat the island’s hearty lobster stew so 

deliciousthekingofSpainisrumoredto 

sail here just for that. ON that first day 

we quickly discovered the island’s rather 

basic, but effective, protection 

against rampant tourism: though the 

mainhighwayfromMahontoCiutadella 

is wellpaved and commodious, many of 

the smaller roads that swerve into the 

countryside are barely wide enough for 

one car. We persevered, and drove on, 

pastfishingvillagesthatdottheisland’s 

coveslikepearls—townsthatareariot 

of color, with magenta bougainvillea 

crawling up white limestone, blue-shuttered 

homes that overlook the sea. Between 

the villages, road signs tempt 

withdirectionstowardhiddenbeaches. 

Unlike Palma de Majorca, which, by 

early summer, is already packed with 

vacationers from Germany and Britain, 

Minorca was still waking from its offseason 

slumber. At times, we couldn’t 

helpbutfeelabitlikeinterlopers.While 

people we met — hoteliers, restaurateurs, 

shopkeepers, shoemakers, dairy 

farmers—werecertainlyfriendly,there 

was a protective feel to Minorca, a reticence, 

which, for us, ultimately resulted 

in a deeply authentic travel experience. 

It was clear that this was not a 

place that was preening itself for tourists. 

SARAH WILDMAN is a frequent contributortotheTravelsection. 

Thereare580Unescobiosphere 

preservesin114countries,which 

meansyoucouldspendalifetime 

hoppingfromonetothenextand 

neverquitereachthemall. 

Lastyear,the40thanniversaryof 

theprogram,18newregionsaround 

theglobereceivedthedesignation, 

eachchosentopromotesustainable 

developmentaswellasculturaland 

environmentalprotection.Someof 

thesitesarealreadyhighlytouristed 

areas,anditishopedthedesignation 

willhelpcontrol,maintainanddirect 

thatvisitor-basedindustry.That’s 

certainlytrueoftheBaaAtoll,Maldives,whichhasonly12,000full-time 

inhabitantsbutwelcomessome 

350,000touristsannually,manyof 

themdiversandsnorkelers.Withthe 

newbiospheredesignation,theMaldiveshopetocontinueatraditionof 

sustainabilityfocusedontheislands’ 

extensivecoralreefsystem. 

The biosphere designation enhanced 

the feeling of protectiveness. Everywhere 

there were signs indicating natural 

parks, with careful instructions on 

whereonecouldpark,camp,evenwalk. 

Property demarcations between farms 

were not fences but layers of rocks that 

formed low stone walls, which have 

been in place since antiquity. And in the 

ancient city centers, there was a sense 

that modernity had been purposefully 

keptatbay. 

In Ciutadella we parked at the Plaça 

del Born, a square marked by 19thcentury 

buildings carved from that 

magnificent rose-colored sandstone. 

Cars are not allowed in the historic city 

center without a special pass, so we 

walkedthefourlongblockstoourhotel, 

peering into the bishop’s garden and 

glancing up at the 13th-century Gothic 

cathedral. 

It wasn’t long before we found Hotel 

Tres Sants, an eight-room, year-old hotel 

in an 18th-century town house, 

tucked at the intersection of three 

streetsnamed,likemanyinthiscity, for 

saints. Sant Sebastià, San Cristòfol, San 

Joseps — each street was protected by 

a small statue of its namesake, housed 

inaglassboxaboveourheads. 

Our hotel room was sponge-washed 

in faint reds and blues, and the bed was 

dreamily swathed in mosquito netting. 

José Carretero, the proprietor, has lately 

opened a second hotel, the five-room 

Marquèsd’Albranca,afewblocksaway. 

Both are family-run. His niece showed 

us around our hotel; his nephew 

worked the desk; his sister managed 

the housekeeping and breakfast. True 

Menorquines, the family dates back to 

atleastthe15thcentury. 

In the morning, Orli ran gleefully 

throughthecobbledstreets.Shedashed 

into the Pastisseria des Centre, which 

has sold the flaky Balearic powdered 

sugar pastries called ensaimadas since 

1881, and, later, was keen to taste homemade 

almond ice cream at Sa Gelateria 

de Menorca.At one of the ubiquitous 

TouristsalsoalreadyvisitMujib, 

Jordan,intheDeadSeabasinandthe 

JordanRiftValley,whichincludesthe 

lowestspotonearth(1,370feetbelow 

sealevel)anddozensofindigenous 

plants. 

Mao’erMountain,China,another 

2011grantee,isamountainofgorgeousvistasandhometoethnic 

sandal shops, with stacks of shoes piled 

totheceiling,shetriedonapairofabarcas,thesimpleleathershoesMinorca 

is 

known for and which are sold in a rainbowofcolors. 

One evening we came upon a costumed 

crowd: women with castanets 

wore 19th-century dresses with white, 

billowing shirts and long, wide skirts; 

themenworeknickers.Therewasafull 

bandofguitarsandafemalesingerwho 

barked in Menorqui like a square dance 

caller as the group performed. The 

crowd was entirely local; we were the 

only tourists observing. The scene was 

a window, we realized, onto what life 

hasbeenlikehereforgenerations. 

Walking home we stumbled upon 

Ulisses, a whitewashed watering hole 

facing the Mercat des Peix, a 19thcentury 

fish market. Lighted almost entirely 

by candles, the bar is known for 

its dozens of gins. A vestige of the English 

domination, gin on ice, we were 

told,istheisland’s drinkofchoice.Xoriguer, 

the best-known indigenous brand, 

tastesofjuniperberries. 

José told us that most of his clients 

stay up to a month with him, but we 

were due elsewhere. So, reluctantly, after 

only two nights, we bade him farewell. 

Within moments of leaving the city 

limits, we were surrounded by unpopulated, 

wild land. The Minorcan soil 

seems to revel in its ability to make 

thingsgrow,fromabountyofaromatics 

— rosemary bushes, thyme, lavender 

and chamomile — to yucca trees, blackberry 

bushes and succulents that shoot 

up through the rock crevices. Everywhere 

we saw trees heavy with fruit, 

and a robust species of wild olive trees 

localscallullastres.AsIandrove,Iread 

thattheislandishometoabout220species 

of birds, 14 varieties of orchid and 

1,000speciesofplants,some60ofwhich 

areendemictotheisland. 

Along the way, signs pointed out 

paths to mysterious prehistoric burial 

and prayer sites called talayots and 

navatas,fromtheBronzeAgeandearlier, 

built of stones arranged into 

T-shaped monuments or igloo-like 

structures. There are, I was told, more 

of these ancient ruins on Minorca than 

anywhereelseintheworld. 

Our destination was the village of Es 

MigjornGranforaone-nightstayinthe 

upscaleagrotourismoBinigiusVell.The 

road that led there seemed unintended 

for cars of any size, let alone our large 

vehicle, but the payoff of that treacherous 

drive was worth it: an infinity pool, 

alovely restaurant, horses on the 

groundsandanhourlonghiketothedistantsea. 

InEsMigjornGranwemetmyfriend 

Baruc Corazón, a fashion designer from 

Madrid, who has been coming to Minorca 

since childhood. His aunt moved 

groupsliketheHanChinese.The 

areawaschosenforbothitscultural 

andenvironmentaldiversityandto 

acknowledgeagrowingculturalinterestamongtravelerstothisonce 

remotearea. 

InAfrica,Songor,Ghana,isalarge 

swathofcoastallandwithbothmarineandfreshwaterecosystems.Ghanaishopingtodevelopandenhancethearea’seco-tourismindustry,whichhasonly,cautiously,just 

begun. 

InEasternEurope,thelargelyagriculturalregionofZuvintas,Lithuania,waschosenforitswetlandsand 

lowlands. 

Onthissideoftheworld,St. 

Mary’s,onSt.KittsandNevis,with 

itscloudforests,mangrovesandcoralreefs,isoneofthefirstbiosphere 

reservesintheCaribbean. 

SARAHWILDMAN 

FROMLEFTHeadinghomefromschoolalongthecobbled,car-freelanesinCiutadella; 

Minorca,aSpanishI 

SPAIN 

Balearic Sea 

Ciutadella 

FRANCE 

MAJORCA 

IBIZA 

Barcelona 

MINORCA 

BALEARIC 

ISLANDS 

MINORCA 

Fornells 

Mahon 

Mediterranean Sea 

5MILES 

THE NEW YORK TIMES 

SixBiospheresWorthaTrip 

UNESCO 

Mao’erMountainrhododendron. 

TheCamideCavallsisatrailforhikers,bikersandhors

theharborofCiutadella;theday’scatchforsaleinEsGrau,avillagenorthofMahon. 

dyll 

backridersthatgoesaroundtheperimeterofMinorca. 


Onanislandfreeofvelvetropesandmega-yachts, 

thelandandawayoflifeareuniquelypreserved. 

to the small town of Sant Lluis in the 

1970s in a fit of hippie anti-establishment 

glee and never left. Her friends 

were a collection of expats: Spaniards, 

GermansandAmericans. 

Baructolduswemustvisitasitethat 

we later called the “lighthouse at the 

end of the world.” The landscape, he 

promised, was unlike anything else on 

the island. The next morning we did as 

told, driving back up toward Fornells, 

steering our car into the preserve 

marked “Parc Natural de S’Albufera 

des Grau” and navigating a narrow 

paved road. We passed a dozen groups 

with backpacks, sturdy shoes and walking 

sticks. Within a few miles, fields 

filledwithcows,andscrubbytreesgave 

way to a lunar landscape of black and 

gray slate on one side, wetlands on the 

other. We parked and walked out to the 

edge of Cap de Favaritx, where we 

found a black-and-white-striped lighthouseoutofcentralcasting,surrounded 

bysmooth-rockbeaches. 

Onthewayback,wepickedupBaruc, 

who directed us down a side road toward 

the sea. “There are two restaurants 

in this village,” he said from the 

backseatofourCitroën.“Onehasafantastic 

view. The other has the most 

amazingfood.Let’sgothere.” 

Soon we emerged over a hill and took 

in a collective breath. Before us lay the 

tiny village of Sa Mesquida (“the 

Mosque,” a nod to the town’s long-ago 

North African residents), a handful of 

whitewashed houses along a one-lane 

road that led to a wide beach with fine 

white sand and a path stretching off to 

morecoves. 

“The British and the French used to 

hide in this bay, before they attacked 

Mahon,” the proprietor of Bar Sa Mesquida 

said to us, as we ordered a bottle 

of crisp, white Galician wine, a whole 

dorade, grilled and dressed with lemon 

and salt, and a tray of fried ortigas de 

mar, a sort of anemone with a taste like 

aburstoftheseaitselfandeatenonlyin 

earlysummer. 

After lunch, we took a short hike. On 

the beach in Sa Mesquida, paths led 

from beach to sandy beach. There were 

no snack shacks, no beach chairs, no 

hawkers. After we wove our way 

throughthemarshypath,andthenback 

to our car, Baruc directed us toward the 

town of Sant Lluis, where his aunt was 

celebratingher60thbirthday. 

SANT LLUIS, founded by the 

French, is a tidy village with a 

neatly laid out grid of streets 

and a photo-worthy windmill. 

But the roads surrounding the 

town were minuscule and haphazard. 

We were stuck in one lane, trying to 

turn around, when a horse-drawn carriage 

came upon us, its driver demandingwebackupashecursedusinthelocal 

dialect. Somehow, after 15 sweating 

minutes,wewereabletoescape. 

That night, in honor of Baruc’s aunt, 

we ate and danced with a motley group 

of expats. An American couple, Dick 

and Patrick, who have owned an old 

farmhouseontheislandsince1971,were 

afontofMinorcanhistoricalknowledge. 

“Do you know the history of Admiral 

Nelson here in Minorca? Did you know 

Americans trained here before Annapolis?” 

Dick asked. “And that there is a 

cemetery in Mahon filled with Americans?” 

I did not know these things, I 

told him. He parried with another question: 

“Did you know that St. Augustine, 

Fla.,wassettledbyMinorquines?” 

That one I looked up. The Minorcan 

group consisted of 1,400 indentured servants 

brought over in 1768. Those who 

survived the journey and a decade of 

hardship became a vibrant community 

in St. Augustine that still celebrates its 

Minorcanroots. 

As we learned the history of the island,wealsodiscoveredsomethinguseful 

for the rest of our stay: an inexpensive 

underground network of sublegal 

rooms for let. We took a gamble and allowed 

ourselves to be led to one house 

that had five gorgeously appointed 

WHERETOSTAY 

TheeightroomHotelTresSants 

inCiutadella(CalleSantCristòfol,2, 

Ciutadella;34-971-48-22-08; 

hoteltressants.com),above,isa 

dreamworldofsponge-colored 

wallsandbillowingcurtains.Afull, 

deliciousbreakfastisincludedinthe 

high-seasonrateof150euros(about 

$196at$1.30totheeuro).Theownershaveafewapartmentsforrent 

aswell. 

ThereareseveraldozenagrotourismosonMinorca;someencouragechildren,otherseschewthem. 

Westayedatthe(childfriendly) 

BinigausVell(CamiMalagarba,kilometer0.9,EsMigjornGran;34-971- 

054-050;binigausvell.com)outside 

ofthetownEsMigjornGran,which 

hashorsesonsite,aninfinitypool, 

anexcellentkitchenandaneasy 

hour-hiketothebeachattheready. 

Adoubleroomstartsat187eurosin 

earlysummer. 

JustslightlysouthofMahon, 

thereareword-of-mouthroomsto 

rentandlotsofsmallboattoursto 

takeforthosewhodon’twantto 

hiketofarbeaches.SandyLarsen 

(sandy@mandrakia.com),anexpatriateAmerican,cantellyoumore 

aboutwheretogoaboutfinding 

suchuntraditionallodgingand 

tours. 

HotelXuroy(CalaAlcaufar,Sant 

Lluis,34-971-15-18-20;xuroymenorca 

.com),a1950s-stylefamily-owned 

hotelonagorgeouslittleinlet,offers 

rooms, a pagoda with lounge chairs, an 

endlessbreakfast,drinksallday, AmericanbluegrassontheiPod. 

We spent the next morning happily 

swimmingatamunicipalbeachpeopled 

by a few tourists and locals. We were 

content, but Baruc insisted that we 

move away from the easy-to-reach 

shoreline. Soon we were hiking across 

parkland, heading for a set of covesin 

an area called Binisafua. This time the 

landscape was flat scrub brush that remindedmeofIsrael. 

With a 2-year-old in tow, I was daunted 

by the jagged cliffs it seemed we had 

to traverse to get to the water. Fortunately, 

many, many years ago, someone 

had cut rough steps into the stone, and 

as we picked our way down the rocks, 

there, spread out before us, was the 

largest cove we’d yet come across. The 

“beach” here wasn’t sand at all, just 

smooth rock platforms dotted with tanning 

locals, most of them nude. Like 

some of the other best spots on this island,thiscorner—whichfacedawarm, 

calm sea that was the most intense blue 

Ihaveeverseen—wasunmarked. 

Some locals picnicking there told us 

we must go to Mahon, the capital, to 

make our island tour complete. So the 

nextmorningwesetout,wanderingthe 

streets, and admiring the Art Nouveau 

architecture around the cathedral and 

themagnificentviewsoftheport. 

TR 7 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LOURDES SEGADE FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES 

PlanningYourTrip 

LOURDES SEGADE FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES 

46cleanandbasicroomsanda 

baby-friendlytinycovebeach—all 

forabout50eurosanight,dependingontheseason. 

WHERETOEAT 

AvisittoMinorcaisnotcomplete 

withoutahealthyportion(orseveral)oftheflakypastrycalledensaimada.TrytheonesatPatisseriadesCentre,astapleinCiutadella 

since1881(SesVoltes8;34-971-38- 

06-40). 

Forpicnics,PereandLolaMosco 

sellroastchickenwithvegetables(6 

euros),lentilswithham(4euros) 

andcroquetas(4euros)fromtheir 

tinyshopEsGust(CalledeSant 

Pere7,Ciutadella;34-971-48-17-33). 

Onthewaytotheothersideofthe 

island,RestaurantMigjorn(AvenidadelaMar1,EsMigjornGran;34- 

971-37-02-12;migjorn-canapilar.es) 

isworthadetourforthelocally 

raisedlambandthecod,aSpanish 

staple,donewell.Anenormous 

lunchfortwowillrun80euros. 

BarSaMesquida(Called’enFonso,2.SaMesquida;34-971-18-83-54)isknownforitsgrilledfishandpaella,JosefaOrtuño,theproprietor, 

runsthetinykitchen.Dinnerfortwo 

runsabout70euros. 

Ifit’sjustgoodoldfriedsardines 

andapintofbeeryou’dlike,trythe 

beachfrontplasticchairsofBarEs 

Moll,inthevillageEsGrau(Moll 

Magatzems.17,EsGrau,34-971-359- 

167). 

The enormous port has drawn visitors 

and traders for centuries. As a result, 

Mahon feels more open to the 

world than Ciutadella. It is still nothing 

like the bustle of Palma on Majorca or 

the crowds in other Spanish seafront 

cities. For one thing, as Sandy Larsen, 

an American expatriate who helps arrange 

tours of the island explained to 

us, yachts are not encouraged. It is far 

more expensive to dock a yacht in Minorca 

than in other Mediterranean 

ports, she said, so the yachters don’t 

come.Itisanotherwaytheislandkeeps 

itscitiesforitscitizens. 

On our last day, we ventured out into 

the countryside once again. We steered 

north, past Mahon, to the park that 

abuts Es Grau, a tiny fishing village. 

When we parked we saw off to one side 

a marked path that meandered through 

the protected salt marshes. In front of 

us was a wide, shallow-water cove, 

filled with that exquisite aquamarine 

water, perfect for wading. A few beachfront 

shacks offered fried sardines and 

beers. An eco-tour kayaking outfit offered 

friendly, and environmentally 

safe,toursofnearbycovesanddeserted 

islands. We opted for neither swimming 

nor boats, just a plate of fried sardines 

bythesea. 

Then we stared out at the landscape, 

windswept and purposefully, gloriously 

wild. Æ

Adaptedfrom“ThePiscoBook,” 

byGregoryDicum 

2ouncespisco,preferably 

OroQuebranta 

1/2 ouncefreshKeylimejuice 

3ouncesgingerale, 

preferablyFever-Tree 

3or4dashesAngostura 

bitters. 

Combinepiscoandlimejuiceina 

Collinsglass.Addiceandjuiced 

limeandfillwithgingerale.Stir 

gentlyandtopwithbitters. 

Yield:Onecocktail. 

PISCOGINGER 

(A KACHILCANO) 


ByANDYISAACSON 

PISCO,thenationalspiritofPeru, 

isatrickster:itappearsso 

clearandpure—yetbefore 

long,youareunderthetable. 

Peruviansliketosaythatgood 

piscowillnevergiveyouahangover,al- 

thoughafterarecentnightinLima,Ibeg 

todiffer.Piscoismadefromasingledis- 

tillationofyoungwinethatholdstheva- 

rietalqualitiesofoneofeightdifferent 

grapesfromwhichitcanbemade.And 

likeChampagneortequila,Peruvianpis- 

coisanofficialappellation;tobebona 

fide,itmustadheretostrict,traditional 

productionmethods.Nothing—noteven 

water—canbeadded. 

Piscohasbeenmadeinthedrycoastal 

valleysofsouthernPerusinceatleast 

theearly17thcentury,andhasbecome 

inextricablylinkedtothecountry’siden- 

tity.ThespiritmustbeservedatPeruvi- andiplomaticfunctionsaroundthe 

world.Thenationaldrink,thepiscosour, 

isanindigenousmarriageofpisco,the 

distinctivePeruvianlime,eggwhiteand 

bittersderivedfromthebarkofaPeruvi- 

antree.(Itevenhasitsownnationalday 

ofcelebration.) 

AsPeru’sfortuneshavegone,sohave 

thoseofpisco,reachingagoldenage 

duringtheflushmineralboomofthelate 

19thcentury,whenaninfluxofItalians 

introducedrefinedwinemakingtech- 

niques.InLima’sbars,piscoflowedcopi- 

ouslybackthen,thoughitwasChilethat 

firstestablishedthespiritasadenomi- 

nationoforiginin1931,stakingamarket- 

ingclaim.(Chileanpiscoisanaltogether 

differentproduct,withdifferentingredi- 

entsandprocessesthatyieldadifferent 

flavor.)Bleaktimesfollowed:amidSo- 

cialistlandreformsandoftenviolentpo- 

liticalconflictsthatplaguedPerufor 

mostofthelastcentury,thequalityand 

reputationofpiscosank.Limeñosdefect- 

edtoforeignwhiskeyandvodka—any- 

thingbutpisco,thenconsideredthetip- 

pleofold-timersanddrunks. 

Inthelastfewyears,though,asPeru’s 

circumstanceshavereversed,dedicated 

pisquerosarenowproducingexcellent 

piscos,andthemixologyrenaissance 

thathastouchedmanyoftheworld’scit- 

ieshasalsolandedinLima’sbars.Here 

arefourspotsinthecapitalcitythat,in 

theirowndistinctiveway,reflecthowPe- 

ruvianshaverediscoveredtheirnative 

spirit. 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDY ISAACSON FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES 

FROMLEFTApiscococktailwithgoldenberryatHuaringasBar,aChilcanoatMarasintheWestinhotelandElVerdecito,front,atCalaareamongthosedrinksthatshowcasethespirit’srevival. 

PURSUITS 

InLima,CapturingPeru’sNativeSpirit 

OnarecentlateFridayafter- 

noon,thisswankbeachfrontspot 

feltlikeMalibu:fromabackpatio 

suspendedoverthesand,well- 

tannedpatronssippedcocktailsin 

viewofsurfers.Thecocktailsin 

handarethecreationsofEnrique 

Vidarte,widelyconsideredthe 

city’smostinventivepiscomixolo- 

gist.Hiswell-balancedconcoctions 

areaperfectshowcaseforthedif- 

ferentpiscovarietals:ElVerdecito, 

adeliciousgreenslurriedcocktail 

servedinamargaritaglass,blends 

piscoItalia,withabrightcitrusand 

sweetfloralnose,togetherwith 

mintleaves,sugarandPeruvian 

limejuice(22nuevossoles,or$8at 

2.73nuevossolestothedollar). 

The42cocktailsonMr.Vidarte’s 

menuaremostlyhisown,butthere 

areafewclassics,liketheCapitán. 

Adrymixofpiscoandredver- 

mouth(thedrink’swhiteandred 

stripesconjureaPeruviannaval 

captain’sinsignia)andamaretto, 

thedrinkisathrowbacktothespir- 

itedsceneofthe1920satLima’s 

GranHotelBolivar,whereitwas 

popularized—somebelieveinre- 

sponsetothedroughtofAmerican 

whiskeyduringProhibition. 

Cala,AvenidaCircuitoVialCosta 

Verde;PlayaBarranquito;Espigón 

B2;Barranco;(51-1)252-9187; 

calarestaurante.com. 

Cala 

NoPeruviancocktailismore 

classicthanthepiscosour.Invent- 

ed,paradoxically,byanexpatMor- 

monfromUtahnamedVictorMor- 

ris,therecipewascanonizedinthe 

1930sattheHotelMauryinLima. 

Thesedays,theMauryservesa 

warm,overlysweetversionto 

touristswhodon’tknowitisnot 

therealthing. 

Forthat,IheadedtoBarInglés, 

awood-paneledretreatinsidethe 

grandCountryClubLimaHotel, 

wherethedrink(26nuevossoles) 

ismixedbyRobertoMeléndez,and 

isadirecttransmissionoftheorigi- 

nal.(Mr.Meléndez’sfatherworked 

atHotelMauryinthe1940s.) 

Mr.MeléndezreachedforPisco 

Qollqe,oneofthenew-waveartisa- 

nalbrands,andmeasuredouta 

preciseratio:fourpartspiscoto 

onepartlime,onepartsimplesyr- 

upandaneggwhite.Shakenand 

pouredintoachilledwineglass,it 

endedupwithalovelytoppingof 

foam.Healsoaddedafewdropsof 

bittersforfragrance. 

“This,”hesaidwithconfidence, 

“isthesamepiscosourthatwas 

servedattheHotelMaury.” 

BarInglés,LosEucaliptos590; 

SanIsidro;(51-1)611-9000; 

hotelcountry.com. 

BarInglés,CountryClubLimaHotel 

Thiscontemporarybarandrestau- 

rant,whichopenedthreeyearsago, 

wasstillquietwhenIarrivedfordin- 

nerat8:30.“It’searlyyet,”saidJaime 

Pesaque,32,Mayta’srising-starchef.I 

camenotonlyforMr.Pesaque’sinno- 

vativenewPeruvianfood,butalsofor 

histraditionalmacerados—infusions 

offruits,rootsandherbsthatPeruvi- 

anshavepreparedforcenturiesusing 

pisco. 

Overahundredclearglassbottles 

aresetupbehindMayta’sbar,likean 

apothecary,filledwithpiscosvibrantly 

infusedwithlocalingredientslike 

camucamu,yucca,ginger,rosepetals 

andlitchi,eucalyptus,mandarinand 

cocaleaves,usedtoflavorvariationsof 

Mayta’smostpopularcocktail,the 

Chilcano(20nuevossoles).Thetall,re- 

freshingdrink,purportedlyintroduced 

by19th-centuryItalianimmigrants, 

combinespiscowithgingerale,bitters 

andasplashoflimejuice. 

Aftersamplingaflightoffivesmall 

Chilcanos(50nuevossoles),Iretired 

tothediningroomtoenjoyadelicious, 

nine-coursetastingmenu(tunacevi- 

che,guineapigconfit;160nuevos 

soles).Anhourlater,thejointwas 

humming. 

Mayta,Avenida28deJulio1290;San 

Antonio;Miraflores;(51-1)243-0121; 

maytarestaurante.com. 

Mayta 

ThislivelyMirafloresbarisar- 

rangedinaseriesofelementally 

themedspaces,fromtheground 

room(earth)toanattic(air).By11 

p.m.,alltheelementswerepopulat- 

edwithchatteringyoungprofes- 

sionalsdrinkingpiscococktails. 

“Theyoungergenerationhasde- 

velopedapiscoculture,”saidRosa- 

rioAlcorta,33,thebar’sbohemian 

owner.“Tenyearsago,they 

weren’tevenawareofit.”Indeed, 

Huaringaswasthefirsttotakethe 

piscosourinamoderndirectionby 

addingfruitflavors,likepassion 

fruit. 

“WhenIopened,olderbarmen 

wouldtellme,‘Whatareyoudoing, 

thisisn’tapiscosour!’”Ms.Alcor- 

tarecalled.“Nowyoucanfind 

theminChile.”Thecocktail(21 

nuevossoles)wasabittootangy 

formytaste,butIenjoyedare- 

freshingcocaleafChilcano(20nue- 

vossoles),beforedecidingIhad 

imbibedenoughpiscoforoneday. 

“Peruhasgonethroughverydif- 

ficultperiods,”Ms.Alcortasaid. 

“ButPeruvianshavefound 

throughourfood,ourpiscoquality, 

awaytobeproud.” 

HuaringasBar,CalleBolognesi 

472;Miraflores;(51-1)447-1133; 

huaringasbar.com.pe. 

HuaringasBar

OVERNIGHTER 

ByJUSTINBERGMAN 

FOLLOWING in the footstepsofforeignmissionaries, 

Chinese gangsters 

and Chiang Kaishek, 

I traveled to the 

mountain outpost of Moganshan 

looking for a breather from fullthrottle 

Shanghai. Before I 

reached my destination, however, 

I had an intimidating set of 

stairstoclimb. 

“It’s 84 steps,” said a smiling 

Tiger, the manager of House 2, 

the restored, early 20th-century 

villa where I’d be staying, as we 

peered up at the rickety stone 

staircase shaded by drooping 

branches of bamboo. Arriving at 

the top short of breath, I realized 

to my dismay it was another 37 

steps to my room on the third 

floor. 

Though the climb was a challenge, 

the journey to Moganshan 

from Shanghai was a relatively 

easy one: a three-hour trip by 

train and car. That proximity, 

along with new lodging options 

that have reinvigorated the area, 

has begun to attract foreigners in 

recent years, more than a centuryafteritsoriginalheyday. 

The main draw, however, is 

what awaits at the top of those 

stairs: dense forests of bamboo 

and pine crisscrossed by hiking 

and biking trails, a lovely, tranquil 

respite from the crowded 

streets of Shanghai. Indeed, outside 

of those new accommodations, 

Moganshan has changed 

littlesinceitservedastheHamptonsofthispartofeasternChina. 

Moganshan was first settled in 

the late 1800s by missionaries 

and their families desperate to 

escape the heat and disease of 

swampy Shanghai summers. By 

the early 20th century, it had become 

a haven for that city’s foreign 

elite, who built sprawling 

stone mansions and whiled away 

their days playing on lawn tennis 

courts or lolling in the many 

swimming pools that dotted the 

mountainside. 

Itwasn’tlongbeforealessreputable 

sort turned up, including 

Du Yuesheng, also known as Big- 

EaredDu,andZhangXiaolin,two 

gangsters who ran Shanghai’s 

opium trade. Zhang kept pet tigers 

behind his villa and is rumored 

to have fed a mistress to 

oneofthem. 

Moganshanalsoattractedpowerful 

couples of a different stripe. 

Thedrugdealerssummerednext 

to Huang Fu, a Kuomintang foreign 

minister, who hosted the 

Chinese Nationalist leader 

Chiang Kai-shek and his wife, 

Soong Mei-ling, on their honeymoonin1927. 

The fun didn’t last for long. 

Though Moganshan was spared 

destruction during Japan’s invasioninthelate1930s,theCommunists 

soon took control and appropriatedthemountain’s 

stately 

stone villas for themselves. (Mao 

Zedong was reportedly another 

visitor.) It has taken decades for 

thespottoreturntoitsplaceasa 

popularsummerretreat. 

Mark Kitto, a British author 

and the former publisher of a 

magazine in Shanghai (where I 

once worked), was the first foreignertomovebacktothemountain 

in the mid-2000s. Mr. Kitto 

served as my guide in Moganshan, 

and as we zipped along the 

area’s curving roads on his 

motorcycle,hisdogCharlieinthe 

sidecar, he commented on the 

history of the homes, some of 

which have been renovated by 

developersandturnedintoguesthouses. 

At Huang’s villa, which is now 

a museum, Mr. Kitto pointed out 

a tree planted by Madame 

Chiang. “She taught Chiang Kaishek 

to dance underneath it,” he 

said.Inside,thehoneymoonsuite 

still has a wedding photo of the 

couple on a side table. Down the 

hall is another preserved bedroom,withblackandgoldShanghai 

Deco-style beds, where Zhou 

Enlai, the future first premier of 

Communist China, spent time 

during his secret meetings with 

Chiang to discuss a possible united 

front against the Japanese in- 

Round-tripticketsonthe 

high-speedtrainbetween 

ShanghaiandHangzhoustart 

at154renminbi($24at6.45 

renminbitothedollar).JoannaKittocanarrangefora 

driverbetweenHangzhou 

andMoganshanfor250renminbieachway.NakedStablesalsohasaweekendshuttleservicebetweenShanghaiandMoganshanfor230renminbieachway.Thereisan 

80renminbientrancefeeto 

themountain. 

LePassageMohkanShan 

(86-1865-728-5900; 

lepassagemoganshan.com). 

Doublesfrom1,500renminbi 

aperson,pernight,including 

IfYouGo 

vasion. 

The tennis court at Zhang’s old 

villaisnowovergrownandthetigercageislonggone,butanelaborate 

Chinese temple that he 

built remains, with red-painted 

lattice windows and nature 

scenes and flowers carved in the 

woodbeneaththeeaves. 

Both villas are on the itinerary 

of guided tours of the mountain 

providedbyMr.Kitto,whochronicles 

Moganshan’s history in his 

book “China Cuckoo” (“Chasing 

China” in the United States). His 

wife, Joanna, originally from 

Guangzhou, is also an area enthusiast, 

having renovated three 

other villas that she rents out — 

called House 23, 25 and 2—in an 

attempt to recreate the feeling of 

theresort’searlydays. 

Ms. Kitto said the dilapidated 

mansions had walls when she 

leased them from the People’s 

Liberation Army, the current 

owners, but little else. She rebuilt 

the floors in House 2 using recycled 

wood from old houses in the 

area and copied the mosaic patterns 

she saw in a neighbor’s 

bathroom that hadn’t been 

touchedsincetheearly1900s. 

allmeals. 

MoganshanHouse23,25 

and2(86-572-803-3822; 

moganshanhouse23.com). 

Doublesfrom650renminbi 

pernight. 

MoganshanLodge(86-572- 

803-3011;moganshanlodge 

.com).Offersbreakfast, 

lunchanddinner. 

NakedStables(86-21-6431- 

8901;nakedretreats.cn). 

Earthhutsfrom1,725renminbipernight;tree-topvillas(withtwobedrooms) 

from5,290renminbiper 

night.Asisterproperty, NakedHomeVillage,hasdoublesfrom1,219renminbiper 

night. 


ALoftyRetreatFromSwelteringShanghai 

200 MILES 

500 MILES 

Moganshan 

Yellow R. 

CHINA 

Yangtze R. 

Hangzhou 

ZHEJIANG 

Beijing 

Area of 

detail 

VIETNAM 

Shanghai 

East 

China 

Sea 

Yellow 

Sea 

TAIWAN 

South China 

Sea 


She also runs the Moganshan 

Lodge, the only spot on the 

mountaintop where visitors can 

unwind with wine after a day of 

stair-climbingormountainbiking 

through the bamboo forests. The 

lodge has maps for self-guided 

hikesaroundthetopofthemountain 

or down the slopes into the 

surrounding valley, and visitors 

can also rent bikes from the Chinese-run 

Songliang Hotel next 

door. 

Despite the efforts of the Kittos, 

development on the mountain 

has been slow, thanks to resistance 

from the provincial government 

and the army, which 

owns a fifth of the old villas. 

Nearby, though, fewer bureaucratic 

hurdles have allowed foreign 

entrepreneurs to embark on 

far more ambitious projects, like 

the eco-resort Naked Stables Private 

Reserve, which opened last 

fall several miles from the mountain 

after a 200 million renminbi 

(about $31.7 million) investment 

from Grant Horsfield, the South 

African owner, and his architect 

wife,DelphineYip. 

For Mr. Horsfield, it wasn’t so 

much the history of the area that 

attracted him, but the proximity 

of such unspoiled countryside to 

Shanghai. His goal was to build a 

luxury property that was also 

sustainable, a new concept in 

China, where high-end hotels are 

adimeadozenbuteco-tourismis 

still in its nascent stages. If all 

goesaccordingtoplan,theoperators 

of Naked say it will be 

among the first resorts in the 

world to achieve LEED-platinum 

certification. 

IThasn’tbeeneasy,Mr.Horsfield 

added. He and his wife, 

the site’s master planner, 

worked with engineers and 

designers to create a resort 

that incorporated green building 

practices but didn’t sacrifice 

style or amenities. There are 40 

rondavel-style villas — essentially 

westernized versions of African 

huts — with environmentally 

friendly rammed earth walls, as 

well as design features like 

thatchedroofs,rawwoodfurnishings 

and cowhide rugs. Another 

30 villas nestled at treetop level 

were built with energy-efficient, 

prefabricated panels, though 

guests may be most impressed 

by the personal butler service 

and balcony hot tubs with panoramicviewsofthemountains. 

There were some missteps, 

like the pool lights that cost Mr. 

Horsfield a point toward LEED 

certification because of light pollution, 

and smart innovations. 

Each room has consumption meters 

that track water, electricity 

and gas usage. Guests receive a 

discount if their consumption is 

below the average by their stay’s 

end. “We’re not just going the 

first step of trying to be green by 

building an earth wall,” he said. 

“What we’re trying to do is show 

you that you can make a differ- 

ence,too.” 

Mr. Horsfield isn’tthe only foreigner 

enticing well-heeled 

guests back to Moganshan. 

Christophe Peres, a native 

LEFTTheNakedStablesPrivateReserve.TOPAwoman 

exploringthebambooforests 

andabandonedhomesnear 

Moganshan.ABOVEAworkerbuildingafireinHouse 

23,asmallhotelandoneofa 

handfulofrenovatedstructuresinthearea. 

Frenchman, and his wife, Pauline 

Lee, spent nearly five years 

building the upscale 40-room hotel 

Le Passage Mohkan Shan. 

Theproperty,whichalsoisanorganic 

tea plantation, partly 

opened in December, with the 

rest scheduled for completion by 

October. 

Mr.Peressaidthathe,too,was 

inspired by the manor houses on 

the mountain, which is why he 

TR 9 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANIEL GROSHONG FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES 

chose century-old, recycled wood 

and handmade French-style tiles 

for the floors. He also built a saltwater 

swimming pool with views 

ofthetea-coveredhillsandplanteda12,000-bushrosegarden.The 

Shanghainese chef has been well 

trainedinFrenchcuisine,andthe 

wine cellar is stocked with biodynamic 

French wines and Mr. 

Peres’shomemadepearbrandy. 

It has taken some time, but 

decadence is slowly returning to 

Moganshan. “When Chinese 

started to travel, they wanted to 

go far,” Mr. Peres said. “Now you 

have some people who have 

money to travel far, who’ve been 

to Europe — they want weekend 

escapes.” 

There are a few differences 

fromtheolddays,however. Political 

bosses may still drop in, but 

they leave their exotic pets at 

home. Æ


BySETHSHERWOOD 

‘‘ 

Iknowofonlyonethingthatyou 

candowellinLyon,andthat’s 

eat,”the19th-centuryFrench 

novelistStendhalremarked. 

Twocenturieslater,theimage 

ofFrance’sthird-largestmetropolisis 

stillburiedunderaheapoffood.No 

surprise.France’smostcelebrated 

chef,theoctogenarianPaulBocuse, 

hailsfromLyon,andthecity’sbouchons—homeyrestaurantsserving 

rustic,traditionalcuisine—arefamous 

countrywide.Butonceyoushoveloff 

thetonsofbloodsausageandSt.Marcellincheese,youfindfarmorethana 

picturesquefeedingzone.Thegateway 

totheAlpsenfoldsRomanruins,Renaissance-eraarchitecture,abundantartspaces,talentedyoungdesigners,renovatedriverfrontsandafast-rising 

neighborhoodoffuturisticarchitecture. 

Better,anewgenerationofchefsis 

bringingLyonnaisecuisineintothe21st 

century.EvenMr.Bocuseisadaptingto 

thenewmillennium:Herecently 

openedhisfirstdesignhotel. 

Friday 

3p.m. 

• 1 HeadUpriver 

An ambitious plan to renovate the 

banks of Lyon’s rivers, the Rhône and 

the Saône, kicked off in 2007. Exhibit A 

is the promenade along the Rhône on 

the Rive Gauche, a favorite of walkers, 

runners,cyclistsandloafers.Forlovely 

views, start at the reflecting pools 

along Quai Claude Bernardand head 

north. Along Quai Victor Augagneur, 

check the posters outside floating 

nightclubs like Ayers Rock Boat for the 

weekend’s agenda. Beyond Pont Wilson, 

the boat-cafe called La Passagère 

(Quai Victor Augagneur; 33-4-72-73-36- 

98) is a cozy spot for hot chocolate (3 

euros, or $3.90 at $1.30 to the euro) or a 

Kronenbourg (6 euros). From there, 

walk or take the 171 bus (1.60 euros) up 

toParcdelaTêted’Or,withponds,gardensandforestedtrails. 

5p.m. 

• 2 TrashandTreasures 

Oversize refuse welcomes you to the 

Musée d’Art Contemporain de Lyon 

(Cité Internationale; 81, quai Charles 

de Gaulle, 33-4-72-69-17-17; mac-lyon 

.com),whichabutsParcdelaTêted’Or. 

Wang Du’s “World Markets” is a silveryinterpretationofacrumpledfinancial 

newspaper, while Olivier Mosset 

has taken old stone slabs —thought to 

be remnants of Paris’s Bastille prison 

—andpiledthemlikediscardsawaiting 

the junk heap. The Art Deco building, 

modified by Renzo Piano, displays topnotch 

contemporary shows. A retrospective 

devoted to the cartoonish 

paintings of the French artist Robert 

CombasrunsthroughJuly15;8euros. 

8p.m. 

• 3 Dial‘M’forMeals 

Phone and reserve at Magali et Martin 

(11,ruedesAugustins;33-4-72-00-88-01; 

magalietmartin.fr), named for the 

young French-Austrian couple who 

ownthisquietlystylishlittlerestaurant. 

AformercookatParis’srenownedTaillevent, 

Martin Schmied changes the 

menu constantly, mixing the rustic and 

the modern. Wild boar? It appears as 

terrine with marinated mushrooms. 

Pheasant? Makes cameos in a consomméwithfoiegras.Specialmentiongoes 

to the blood sausage served in small 

pastry-likeshellsandtotheguineafowl 

that is poached, then roasted, imparting 

an exceptional succulence. Dinner 

fortwo,withoutwine,isabout70euros. 

11p.m. 

• 4 LyonnaiseLibations 

Food claims the spotlight in Lyon, but 

drinks are doing their own diva act, 

thanks to a nascent cocktail scene. 

James Brown and Frank Sinatra haunt 

Soda (7, rue de la Martinière; soda-bar 

.fr). Their jailhouse mug shots and others’ 

decorate this dark, plush den, 

where 9 euros gets you a spicy Slum 

Dog Millionaire (Bombay gin, cherry 

jam,lemonjuice,redvermouthandcardamom) 

or smooth Globetrotter (pisco, 

elderflower liqueur, lemon juice and 

Aperol). Nearby, the strains of old 

American jazz fill L’Antiquaire (20, rue 

Hippolyte Flandrin; 33-6-34-21-54-65; 

theantiquaryroom.com) where bowtiedbartendersserveupseasonalcocktailslikeMarco’sBacardiFizz(Bacardi 

rum, green chartreuse, lime juice, lemon 

juice, sugar syrup, cream, egg white 

andsoda),afoamycitricblast. 

Saturday 

10a.m. 

• 5 CelluloidHeroes 

Thestreetnamesaysitall:RueduPremier 

Film. There, on March 19, 1895, 

Louis Lumièreactivated the “Cinématographe” 

that he had designed with 

hisbrother,Auguste,andrecordeda50second 

film of employees leaving their 

family’sphoto-platefactory.Andsocinema 

was born. The Institut Lumière 

(25, rue du Premier Film; 33-4-78-78-18- 

95; institut-lumiere.org) pays homage 

36Hours 

Lyon,France 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY REBECCA MARSHALL FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES 

FROMLEFTAttheSodacocktailbar;abargeontheSaôneRiver;LeThéâtred’Ombres(“ShadowPlay”)displayattheInstitutLumière,whichpayshomagetotheearlyhistoryofmoviemaking. 

IfYouGo 

Openedlastfallnearthemain 

trainstation,AllSeasonsPartDieu 

(54,ruedelaVillette;33-4-72-68-25- 

40;all-seasons-hotels.com)has99 

nonsmokingrooms,abrasserieand 

abar.Doublesfrom75euros($98). 

OneofPaulBocuse’smostrecent 

concoctionsisDockOuest(39,rue 

desDocks;33-4-78-22-34-34; 

dockouest.com),adesignhotelwith 

43roomsandsuitesoutfittedwith 

LigneRosetfurnishings.Mr.Bocuse’sOuestExpress(ouestexpress.com)restaurantistwosteps 

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QUAIRAMBAUD 

9 

RUEDESDOCKS 

Au 14 Fevrier 

Saône 

River 

Soda 

to the early history of moviemaking. 

The brothers’ Art Nouveau mansion is 

now a museum (6.50 euros) that shows 

original Lumière films and displays the 

famous Cinématographe and other earlyfilmmakingdevices,includingaboxy 

woodenEdisonKinetoscope.Nextdoor, 

theformerfactoryisnowatheaterwith 

arosterofinternationalfilmclassics. 

12:30p.m. 

• 6 FrapaneseFood 

Like a love hotel bedroom, mirrors line 

the ceiling of Au 14 Fevrier (6, rue 

Mourguet; 33-4-78-92-91-39; au14fevrier 

.com), a tiny jewel-box restaurant that 

opened in 2009. And, as in a love hotel, 

those mirrors reflect near-orgasmic reactions 

from the delighted clients below. 

The stimulation is provided by the 

chef Tsuyoshi Arai, a Tokyo transplant 

wholandedaMichelinstarthisyearfor 

what he calls “la cuisine Française 

MadeinJapan.”Themenuchangesdaily 

but recently included blood pudding 

sheathedindarkchocolatetubes,warm 

foie gras with strawberry vinegar and 

cooked figs, and roasted pheasant with 

colorful vegetables cut to resemble 

gumdrops.Ninecoursesfor75euros. 

3p.m. 

• 7 GargoylesandLard 

A Renaissance-era, Unesco-listed balade 

digestive —digestive walk — 

6 

4 

Village des Créateurs/ 

Morgan Kirch/ 

Blue Mustach Shop 

8 

LaCroixRousse 

L’Antiquaire 

Terre Adélice 

Cathedral of St.- 

Jean-Baptiste 7 

QUAICELESTINS 

Montrochet 

11 

Rhône 

River 

QUAICHARLES 

DEGAULLE 

Magali et Martin 

3 

QUAIDELA 

PECHERIE 

QUAI 

SAINT 

ANTOINE 

Marché 

St.- Antoine 

Cité 

Internationale 

COURSFRANKLIN 

ROOSEVELT 

1 La Passagère 

QUAIVICTOR 

AUGAGNEUR 

QUAICLAUDE 

BERNARD 

150MILES 

Bordeaux 

SPAIN 

PARCDELA 

TÊTED’OR 

awaits in the cobbled alleys of Vieux 

Lyon. Built when the city was a rich 

silk-makingcenter,theneighborhoodis 

known for the Cathedral of St.-Jean- 

Baptiste (8, place St.-Jean; cathedrale 

-lyon.cef.fr). The facade is decorated 

with 25 gargoyles, 36 prophets and patriarchs, 

36 martyrs and saints and 72 

angels —but who’s counting? —while 

the interior contains a towering astronomical 

clock topped by automatons of 

humansandangels.(Thewholeensemble 

goes into motion when the clock 

strikes 12, 2, 3 and 4 p.m.)If your stroll 

makes you hungry, the artisanal ice 

creams at Terre Adélice (1, place de la 

Baleine, 33-4-78-03-51-84; terre-adelice 

.eu)comeinunexpectedflavors. 

5p.m. 

• 8 TimetoGetCreative 

With its steep staircase-streets and Bohemian 

vibe, La Croix Rousse recalls 

Paris’s Montmartre district. The neighborhood’s 

creative heart is the Village 

des Créateurs (Passage Thiaffait, 19 

Rue René Leynaud, 33-4-78-27-37-21; 

villagedescreateurs.com), an alley of 

local design boutiques. Morgan Kirch 

(morgankirch.fr) makes sophisticated 

dark-hued women’s wear like black 

minivests sprouting feathers (230 

euros). Mixing the sensibilities of Pop 

Art and graffiti, the T-shirts (39 euros) 

at the Blue Mustach Shop 

(bluemustach.com) sport playful images 

of Karl Lagerfeld, Jean-Michel 

2 

COURSGAMBETTA 

FRANCE 

ANDORRA 

Lyon 

Saône 

River 

Lyon 

Musée d’Art 

Contemporain 

de Lyon 

COURSVITTON 

All Seasons 

Part Dieu 

RUEDELA 

VILLETTE 

RUEDU 

PREMIERFILM 

Rhône 

River 

Marseille 

Mediterranean Sea 

Institut 

Lumière 

5 

SWITZ. 

ITALY 


ONLINE:READERS’THOUGHTS 

SeeaslideshowofLyon,andshare 

yoursuggestionsonwheretostay, 

wheretoeatandwhattodo. 

travel.nytimes.com/lyon 

Basquiatandotherstyleicons. 

8p.m. 

• 9 PickNic 

Take Tramway line T1 to Montrochet, 

walk west on Rue Paul Montrochet and 

head toward the postmodernist building 

resembling a block of orange 

cheese. This is La Confluence (lyon 

-confluence.fr), a formerly downbeat 

docklands that is now sprouting futuristic 

new structures. The best food is 

foundatRueLeBec(43QuaiRambaud, 

33-4-78-92-87-87; nicolaslebec.com), a 

sprawling restaurant with a wine bar, 

bakeryandfine-foodboutique.Itcomes 

courtesyofNicolasLeBec,theheadliner 

of the new generation of Lyon chefs. 

Themenuisaglobaljourneythatstarts 

in Lyon —andouillette sausage, tête de 

veau —with stopovers in Spain (Iberian 

ham with tomato bread), Italy (eggplant 

topped with mozzarella), Japan 

(wagyubeeftappanyaki)andNorthAfrica 

(lamb with mint and souk spices). 

Threecoursesfortwo,about90euros. 

10p.m. 

• 10 TieUptotheDock 

Follow the scent of after-shave and 

D&G perfume to Docks 40 (40, quai 

Rambaud, 33-4-78-40-40-40; docks40 

.com). Opened in 2010, the industrial 

chic restaurant-lounge is a sea of barstools, 

tables and rushing servers until 

midnight. Then, the furniture gets 

cleared, the dancing starts, and the 

D.J.-spun music —soul, disco and 

house—explodes.IfamagnumofCristal 

Roderer (1,100 euros) is too steep, a 

glass of Tattinger bubbly (10 euros) 

alsogetsthepartystarted. 

Sunday 

10a.m. 

• 11 PlaytheMarkets 

The aromas are fresh at the lively and 

crowded Marché St.-Antoine (Quai St.- 

Antoine and Quai des Célestins): ripe 

cheese, baked bread, pungent fish, 

steaming roasted chickens, briny oysters. 

Jouvray (33-4-74-01-16-85) can furnish 

hockey pucks of St. Marcellin 

cheese (1.80 euros for two)and local 

dry salami (19 euros per kilo), while 

Côté Desserts (33-4-78-45-19-45) does 

excellent quince tarts (1.95 euros). After, 

feed your mind among les bouquinistes 

—outdoor book dealers—along 

the adjacent Quai de la Pêcherie. You’ll 

find hometown authors like Antoine de 

Saint-Exupéryaswellasvintagemaps, 

postcards and LPs. You might even 

chance across works by Stendhal. In 

Lyon,he’sneverfarfromthefood. Æ

FORAGING 

OldMontreal 

LooksBeyond 

TheTourists 

FORdecades,periodarchitectureandpristinecobblestonestreetshave 

keptOldMontrealwelltroddenbytourists.Butthisgraciouswaterfront 

area,datingbackcenturies,isregainingcachetwithlocals,andhigh-end 

retailhasfollowed.AwesternstretchofnarrowRueSt.Paul,wheresouvenirshopsoncehawkedQuébécoiskitsch,hasbecomeanunlikelyhub 

forhighfashion.Hugepicturewindowsinrestoredstonebuildingsnowshowcase 

of-the-momentlookstorivalthehippestthatNewYorkorParishavetooffer—all 

withaninsouciantMontrealtwist. MICHAELKAMINER 

Y 

REBORN 

231,rueSt.Paul 

Ouest 

(514)499-8549 

reborn.ws 

BrigitteChartrand’s 

pint-sizeboutique 

castsagiantshadow,withunerringradarfornext-bigthingdesignerslike 

BorisBidjanSaberi 

formen,andRaquel 

Allegraforwomen. 

From250to5,000 

Canadiandollars. 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY YANNICK GRANDMONT FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES 


Z 

Montreal 

RUEST.- 

PAULOUEST 

Uandi 

Quai 417 

RUENOTRE- 

DAMEOUEST 

Reborn 

RUEST.- 

PIERREOUEST 

SSENSE Boutique 

Boutique 

Denis Gagnon 

St. Lawrence 

River 


UANDI 

215,rueSt.PaulOuest 

(514)508-7704 

boutiqueuandi.com 

UpdatedAmericanafromlabelslikePoloRalphLauren,EngineeredGarments,PenfieldandLevi’sMade 

&Craftedfillsthissmall,spartanshop.From115to 

1,475Canadiandollars. 

Z 

[ 

Z 

SSENSEBOUTIQUE 

90,rueSt.PaulOuest 

(514)289-1906 

ssense.com 

Thislocallybasedonline 

destinationforlabelhounds 

nowhasitsfirstboutique. 

Industrialsteelaccentsand 

reclaimed-woodfloorshighlighthigh-ticketwaresfrom 

MarcJacobs,Proenza 

Schouler,KrisVanAssche 

andLanvin.Pricesfrom150 

to5,000Canadiandollars 

(aboutthesameinU.S.dollars). 

TR 11 

BOUTIQUEDENISGAGNON 

170B,rueSt.PaulOuest 

(514)935-6360 

denisgagnon.ca 

TheentiretyofDenisGagnon’s 

hard-edgedbutsensuouscollection,includingleather-accented 

eveningwear,isproducedinthis 

bunkerlikestore-cum-workshop 

beneaththechicLePetitHôtel. 

From120to1,300dollars. 

QUAI417 

417,rueSt.Pierre 

(514)419-3848 

quai417.com 

PhilippeDubuc,knownfor 

includingsubversivedetails 

likeslashedshirtcuffsinhis 

designs,openedthismultibrandboutiqueafewsteps 

northoftheSt.Paulstripin 

November.Hiscreations 

shareyellowcube-shaped 

“racks”withEuropeanlabelslikeJeanColonna,AF 

VandevorstandPremiata. 

From195to995dollars.

12 TR THENEWYORKTIMES,SUNDAY, APRIL15,2012

A Spanish Island Idyll

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