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Vogue. May 1926. Cover design:<br />

Eduado Garcia Benito (1891-1953)<br />

Jazz as the gramophone, the<br />

mechanically reproduced<br />

sound represented in<br />

photomontage (the<br />

mechanically/technically<br />

reproduced image).<br />

Early 20th Century Modernity and Technology<br />

Spring 2011. Lecturer: <strong>Dr</strong>. <strong>Jon</strong> <strong>Cockburn</strong><br />

• Photograph<br />

• Telegraph<br />

• The Gramophone<br />

• The Typewriter<br />

• Moving film/cinema<br />

• The Automobile<br />

• The Aeroplane<br />

• Electric lights and signs<br />

• Scientific management/<br />

efficiency movement/<br />

Taylorism/Fordism/<br />

Americanism<br />

• Sound film<br />

• Cathode Ray tube – Radar<br />

Heinz Loew. Self Portrait in<br />

Record Player: Sandwich<br />

Photo. c.1928. Photograph<br />

BAUHAUS.<br />

Berlin: Symphony of a Great City. 1927. Dir. Walther<br />

Ruttmann. B&W. 62min. Grab: 3min 28sec.<br />

In 1920, Richard Hülsenbeck, a German Dadaist on Jazz:<br />

“While we are speaking of music, Wagner had shown<br />

all the hypocrisy inherent in a pathetic faculty for<br />

abstraction – the screeching of a brake, on the other<br />

hand, could at least give you a toothache. In modern<br />

Europe, the same initiative which in America made<br />

ragtime a national music, led to the convulsion of<br />

bruitism” (‘En Avant Dada... 1920’ rpt. in Chipp 1968,<br />

p.379).


Technological context 19th Century to early 20th Century<br />

• 1837: Samuel Morse (1791-1872), Telegraph (Morse code) [ELECTRONIC MEDIA THAT MOVES ACROSS<br />

SPACE, VIA FIXED LINE, BETWEEN SENDER AND RECEIVER]<br />

• 1839: Louis-Jacques-Mande Daguerre (1789-1851), Photography [PHOTOCHEMICAL MEDIA CAPTURES LIFE]<br />

• In 1868, Christopher Latham Sholes(1819-1890) patented the first typewriter, although several others had<br />

been experimenting with such an idea since 1713. [CLERICAL & BUREAUCRATIC LONGHAND MAKES WAY<br />

FOR STANDARDIZED INSTANT RECORDING AND PRINTING, OFTEN WITH CARBON COPY DUPLICATES]<br />

• In 1873, Sholes signs a contract with the gunsmiths E. Remington and Sons to manufacture an improved version of<br />

his typewriter. [MASS PRODUCED OFFICE MACHINES CAPABLE OF STANDARDIZED INSTANT RECORDING AND<br />

PRINTING, OFTEN WITH CARBON COPY DUPLICATES]<br />

• 1871: Maddox-Eastman, Bromide print [IMPROVED PHOTOGRAPHIC TECHNOLOGY]<br />

• 1876: Bell-Gray, Telephone [ELECTRONIC MEDIA THAT MOVES ACROSS SPACE, VIA FIXED LINE, BETWEEN<br />

SENDER AND RECEIVER]<br />

• 1877: Edison, Phonograph [ THE EPHEMERAL QUALITY OF SOUND IS RECORDED AND REPRODUCED IN<br />

MULTIPLE COPIES]<br />

• 1889: Kodak markets portable cameras that shoot with transparent film [PHOTOCHEMICAL MEDIA THAT IS<br />

CONVENIENTLY MOBILE]<br />

• 1897: Marconi, Wireless [ELECTRONIC MEDIA THAT MOVES ACROSS SPACE, WITHOUT NEEDING A FIXED<br />

LINE, BETWEEN SENDER AND RECEIVER]<br />

• 1895: Louis Lumière (1864-1948) and Auguste Lumière (1862-1954), cinematograph [PHOTOCHEMICAL<br />

MEDIA THAT CAPTURES MOVEMENT]<br />

• 1895: Rontgen, x - rays [LOOKING INTO THE BODY RATHER THAN SIMPLE LOOKING AT THE BODY – THAT IS<br />

NO LONGER THOUGHT OF AS NATURAL, BUT INSTEAD THOUGHT OF AS ATOMIZED AND DIVISIBLE]<br />

• 1901: Marconi, sends and receives radio signals from US East Coast across the Atlantic<br />

• 1902: Korn, Telegraphy of pictures [ELECTRONIC MEDIA THAT MOVES IMAGES ACROSS SPACE, VIA FIXED<br />

LINE, BETWEEN SENDER AND RECEIVER]<br />

• 1903: Motorised aeroplane: Wright Brothers [THE FIRST TIME HUMANS FLY IN A POWERED HEAVIER-<br />

THAN-AIR MACHINE]<br />

• 1905: Einstein, Theory of Relativity [E=MC2 ]


Mechanical and Technological Modernists<br />

contra<br />

Anti-modernists<br />

(Criteria: Modernist supported a social engagé outlook and/or experimental use of “new-media”)<br />

MODERNIST ANTI-MODERNIST<br />

• Deutscher Werkbund (early-20 th C Germany)<br />

• Italian Futurists (1909–c.1922)<br />

• Soviet Avant-Garde (1917–1934)<br />

• Bauhaus (1919–1933)<br />

• Ring neue Werbegestaler (Circle of the New<br />

Advertising Typographer)<br />

• Arts and Crafts Movement (late-19 th C England)<br />

• Die Brucke (The Bridge, early-20 th C German<br />

Expressionist group)<br />

• Soviet Socialist Realism<br />

• Fascist (NAZI) propoganda<br />

De Stijl (THE STYLE – early-20th De Stijl (THE STYLE – early-20 C Dutch art and design movement)<br />

thC Dutch art and design movement)<br />

Dadaism<br />

Surrealism


Guglielmo Marconi<br />

(1874-1937),<br />

Photograph 1908,<br />

Library of Congress,<br />

Washington DC, USA<br />

Marconi and assistant in his North<br />

American radio building 1901<br />

Advertisement for Grebe Radio, in<br />

Radio News, April 1921, USA<br />

RADIO<br />

Ninotchka (1939).<br />

Dir. Ernst Lubitsch,<br />

1hr 46min., MGM, B/<br />

W, Sound, Writ:<br />

Charles Brackett,<br />

Billy Wilder, Walter<br />

Reisch. Perf: Greta<br />

Gardo (Nina<br />

Yakushova<br />

"Ninotchka"),<br />

Melvyn Douglas<br />

(Count Leon Dolga).<br />

Grab: 2min 10sec<br />

Cover: Radio News,<br />

June 1923, USA<br />

Cover: Radio News,<br />

April 1924, USA<br />

• In 1901, Gulielmo Marconi on the US East Coast sends and receives a radio messages from across the Atlantic<br />

• In 1922, in the UK, BBC Radio commences broadcasting<br />

• First commercial Australian Radio station broadcast from November 1923<br />

• Australian Broadcasting Commission established in 1932


Lucien Faure (French graphic designer, 1872-1943),<br />

The Empire Typewriter, 1897, Colour Lithograph<br />

(poster), nd. Victoria & Albert Museum, London.<br />

The Oliver (Typewriter<br />

Booklet), ca.1898, Oliver<br />

Typewriter Co. St. Louis,<br />

MO, USA (Located at: Duke<br />

University Libraries, Digital<br />

Collections, Emergence of<br />

Advertising in America,<br />

Database of over 9,000<br />

items dating from 1850 to<br />

1920.)<br />

The Oliver (Typewriter Booklet), ca.1898, Oliver Typewriter<br />

Co. St. Louis, MO, USA ( Duke University Libraries, Digital<br />

Collections)


Stenographers and Typists in the United States by Sex, 1870–1930<br />

Year Total Men Women Women as a<br />

percentage of<br />

total<br />

1870 154 147 7 4.5%<br />

1880 5,000 3,000 2,000 40.0<br />

1890 33,400 12,100 21,300 63.8<br />

1900 112,600 26,200 86,400 76.7<br />

1910 326,700 53,400 263,300 80.6<br />

1920 615,100 50,400 564,700 91.8<br />

1930 811,200 36,100 775,100 95.6<br />

Source: U.S. Bureau of the Census, Sixteenth Census of the United States, 1940: Population (1943), as<br />

cited in Davies 1974, p.10. (rpt. Kittler 1999, p.184).


Processing hogs in a slaughter-house – origin of the<br />

modern assembly line, Cincinnati. c.1870.<br />

Standardised and exchangeable components<br />

becomes the model for mass-production<br />

• Mass produced components imply reliable and<br />

tested quality (reducing product variation found in<br />

bespoke manufacturing).<br />

• Interchangeable parts (spares) allows for extended<br />

and cost effective life of capital equipment<br />

• Simplification of design for mass production<br />

enhances items functional use-value.<br />

In-line processing becomes the model for the<br />

Fordist conveyer belt assembly line<br />

manufacturing<br />

• Systemized processing<br />

• Regular patterns of movement<br />

• Standardized methods<br />

• Planned and predictable output<br />

• Manageable quality and health control<br />

In USA, Manufacturers Catalogue (1867) showing the<br />

early use of interchangeable parts for a reaper – large<br />

agricultural machine.


Frederick Winslow Taylor<br />

(1856-1915) c.1907.<br />

“In the past the man has<br />

been first; in the future<br />

the system must be<br />

first”(Taylor F. W 1911, The<br />

Principles and Methods of<br />

Scientific Management, p.7)<br />

Scientific Management and the Efficiency Movement<br />

Frank B. Gilbreth (1868-1924) and Lillian M.<br />

Gilbreth (1878-1972) c.1920.<br />

Frank Gilbreth motion studies for his<br />

Bricklaying System c.1909-10. Grab: 2 min.<br />

“Scientific management is<br />

simply management that is<br />

based upon actual<br />

measurement. Its skilful<br />

application is an art that must be<br />

acquired, but its fundamental<br />

principles have the exactness of<br />

scientific laws which are open to<br />

study by every one.” (Gilbreth F. B<br />

& L. M 1917, Applied Motion Study, pp.<br />

211-212)<br />

Frank and Lillian Gilbreth in their Motion<br />

Studies studio c.1916


Gilbreth uses<br />

spare moving<br />

film stock to<br />

capture a Wright<br />

Brothers type<br />

aircraft<br />

overhead. c.1910<br />

Modernity as motion study<br />

c.1910<br />

Horse and wagon<br />

Horse-less<br />

wagon<br />

(automobile)<br />

Gilbreth’s specially built chronometer measuring the comparative efficiency of horse<br />

drawn and horse-less carriages (crossing far distance and moving toward the horizon)<br />

Gilbreth Studies c.1910. Grab: 1 min. 28 sec.


Motion study<br />

studio, with<br />

champion<br />

typist at<br />

typewriter and<br />

Lillian M.<br />

Gilbreth,<br />

centre of<br />

picture,<br />

toward the<br />

back<br />

observing<br />

proceedings.<br />

c.1916.<br />

Proof sheets documenting comparative study<br />

of two different typists hands as they type and<br />

change paper. Box 12. File: N File 14. 0031-30<br />

NAFDR. n.d. (c.1913-1919). Gilbreth Library of<br />

Management.<br />

Motion Studies: Typing<br />

“Motion study consists of dividing work into the most<br />

fundamental elements possible; studying these elements<br />

separately and in relation to one another; and from these<br />

studied elements, when timed, building methods of least<br />

waste.” (Frank B. and Lillian M. Gilbreth, Applied Motion Study 1917, p.<br />

220)<br />

The Gilbreths, Remington and the efficiency of champion typist. c.1916.<br />

Grab Length: 1min. 18sec.


The automobile – being in control of machine, space and time<br />

The Mercedes advertisement, from 1888<br />

or 1889, ... extols the virtues of the Benz threewheeler,<br />

invented in 1885. Due to its perfect<br />

integration of engine and chassis, it is<br />

considered by many to be the world's first true<br />

automobile. Only a few cars were made during<br />

this period; volume production was still years in<br />

the future.<br />

25 years later the motorvehicle<br />

has moved from<br />

bespoke and exclusive to<br />

mail-order and<br />

straightforward it its<br />

utility.<br />

Sears, Roebuck & Co., Motor Buggy<br />

Catalogue. 1910 'Changing<br />

Speeds' (Schroeder, jnr & Factor 1973,<br />

p.14)


Leopoldo Metlicovitz (no dates),<br />

Poster for an internal combustion<br />

engine 1905, Treviso, Italy, Museo<br />

Civico Luigi Bailo, Salace Collection.<br />

1909 Ford Model T New York to Seattle Racer<br />

Cover by Clarence F.<br />

Underwood. Saturday<br />

Evening Post, 15 June 1912.<br />

Marcello Dudovich (1878-1962),<br />

C’e’ una Bugatti, non si passa,<br />

1922, Colour Lithograph, 195 x<br />

140 cm.<br />

From the pages of<br />

Vogue: ‘… dressed<br />

for the open road;<br />

the Comtesse<br />

Bernard de<br />

Pourtales wears a<br />

checked helmet,<br />

goggles, and long<br />

gauntlets of<br />

washable buckskin,<br />

1922’ (Hall, p.111)


Powered flight and principles of rational<br />

construction<br />

Wilbur (1867-1912) & Orville Wright (1871-1948) First heavier than air powered<br />

flight at Kittyhawk, North Carolina, USA. 17 December 1903 – Wright Brothers<br />

flight lasts 3 minutes.<br />

• 17 December 1903 – Wright Brothers flight lasts 3 minutes<br />

• 25 July 1909, Frenchman Louis Bleriot – flew across the<br />

English channel (Calais, France to Dover, England) in 43 minutes<br />

at 64 kmph<br />

• 1919, first aircraft are produced capable of flying at 192 km per<br />

hour with an all-metal construction and an enclosed<br />

compartment for pilots and crew.<br />

25 July 1909,<br />

Frenchman Louis<br />

Bleriot – across<br />

the English<br />

Channel<br />

Vogue's suggestion for travel in a small<br />

plane was a knitted chiné woollen suit by<br />

J. Suzanne Talbot. The attached helmet<br />

suggested a sailor collar when it was<br />

slipped off, 1926. Photograph: Edward<br />

Steichen (Hall, p.113)


Marcello Dudovich (1878-1962),<br />

Touring Club Milano, 1912, Colour<br />

Lithograph, n.di.<br />

Anonymous, International<br />

Aviation Tournament Belmont<br />

Park, USA, 1910, Lithograph,<br />

210 x 99 cm, American<br />

Lithograph Co.<br />

Anonymous, for the Automobile Club of France,<br />

Manufacturer: Affiches F. Lochard, 24-30<br />

December 1908, 155 x 117cm, Lithograph


• In 1910, USA, the Sears, Roebuck & Co., Motor Buggy Catalogue features a<br />

car for women.<br />

• In 1911, Frederick Winslow Taylor (1856-1915) published his lecture, “The<br />

Principles of Scientific Management”<br />

• In 1913, Henry Ford (1863-1947) introduces the conveyor belt manufacturing<br />

system at his Detroit car plant and ushers in Fordism.<br />

• In 1913, in the USA, the zipper is patented.<br />

• In 1914, in the USA, Mary Phelps Jacob patents the Bra.<br />

• Between 1915-17, Frank B. Gilbreth (1868-1924) and Lillian M. Gilbreth<br />

(1911-1917 “Motion Studies”).<br />

• In 1920, Christine Frederick (1883-1970) publishes, Scientific Management in<br />

the Home: Household Engineering.<br />

• In 1922, in the UK, BBC Radio commences broadcasting.


Frederick Winslow Taylor (1856-1915) c.<br />

1907. Photographer unknown.<br />

Taylorism<br />

The three fundamental principles of Taylorism are:<br />

1) Dissociation of the labour process from the skill of workers<br />

2) Separation of conception from execution<br />

The Principles and Methods of Scientific Management (NY, 1911)<br />

“In the past the man has been first; in the future the system must be<br />

first”(p.7)<br />

“The principal object of management should be to secure the<br />

maximum prosperity for the employer, coupled with the maximum<br />

prosperity for each employee.” (p.9)<br />

“One of the important objects of this paper is to convince its readers<br />

that every single act of every workman can be reduced to a<br />

science” (p.64)<br />

“It is only through enforced standardization of methods, enforced<br />

adoption of the best implements and working conditions, and<br />

enforced cooperation that this faster work can be assured. And the<br />

duty of enforcing the adoption of standards and enforcing this<br />

cooperation rests with management alone” (p.83)<br />

3) Use of this monopoly over knowledge to control each step of the labour process and its mode of execution.


Henry Ford – Ford Motor Co.,<br />

Highland Park 1913. 'Assembling<br />

the flywheel magneto'<br />

FORDISM<br />

YEAR PRICE PRODUCTION<br />

1909-10 $950 18,664 cars<br />

1912-13 $600 168,220 cars<br />

1916-17 $360 785,432 cars<br />

1920-21 $440 to $355 1,250,000 cars<br />

“Henry Ford (1863-1947): American Automobile manufacturer and<br />

innovator. By developing the assembly line for building cars, he<br />

pioneered mass production, achieving levels of output unheard of in the<br />

days of craftsman built vehicles. At the same time he contributed to the<br />

high-wage, high-consumption society. By aggressive marketing<br />

(increasing volume and decreasing unit cost brought significant price<br />

reductions) he provided motoring for millions. Over 15 million model-T<br />

Fords were sold between 1908 and 1927. But mass production and mass<br />

consumption also led to deskilled workers and changing expectations.<br />

The Ford Motor Company was formed in 1903. Although Ford had no<br />

formal title on the company, he dominated its management. Henry's<br />

grandson, Henry Ford II, is still at the head of the Ford Company.” (The<br />

Fontana Dictionary of Modern Thinkers. Eds. Alan Bullock & R.B.<br />

Woodings. 1992. 233-234)<br />

Ford Model T 1913 Runabout,<br />

Anonymous photographer, USA, c.2010


Time and Motion Studies after 1917-18: The Post WW1 impact of the Efficiency Movement<br />

FRANK AND LILLIAN GILBRETH – MOTION STUDIES<br />

Frank B. Gilbreth (1868-1924) Untitled<br />

(Motion study-sorting buttons) 1917.<br />

FROM ‘APPLIED MOTION STUDY’ 1917 – Frank & Lillian<br />

Gilbreth. Published by Sturgis & Walton Co., New York, in<br />

1917. Rpt. The Writings of the Gilbreths. Eds. William R.<br />

Spriegel and Clark E. Myers. Homewood, Illinois: Richard D.<br />

Irwin Inc, 1953<br />

“Motion study consists of dividing work into the most<br />

fundamental elements possible; studying these elements<br />

separately and in relation to one another; and from these<br />

studied elements, when timed, building methods of least<br />

waste.” (p.220)<br />

“The micro-motion method of making motion studies consists of recording motions by means of a motion<br />

picture camera, a clock that will record different times of day in each picture of a motion picture film, a cross-<br />

sectioned background, and other devices for assisting in measuring the relative efficiency and wastefulness of<br />

motions.” (p.221)


Christine Frederick (1883-1970)<br />

Scientific Management in the Home:<br />

Household Engineering, (Preface by:<br />

Frank Gilbreth) 1920.<br />

Christine Frederick’s method:<br />

I kept on studying, visiting plants and factories, and getting in<br />

touch more widely with the movement. Besides studying<br />

myself, I got friends to watch themselves at work and tell me<br />

the results. I began to test equipment and household apparatus<br />

in my own home so that I could tell other women what I found<br />

out. I remodelled my own kitchen and then the kitchens of<br />

friends. Before I knew it, I became a “household engineer,” and<br />

was called in as “competent counsel” by other homemakers!<br />

I was so enthusiastic over the results of my experiments that I<br />

wrote four articles called “The New Housekeeping” which<br />

appeared in The Ladies’ Home Journal of 1912. The interest was<br />

so great that I later brought out the same material in book form.<br />

(p.15-16)


Villa Jeanneret-Perret, La Chaux-de-Fonds. Amédée<br />

Ozenfant, Albert Jeanneret et Charles-Édouard<br />

Jeanneret dans l'atelier, c.1918 – (Left. to right)<br />

Amédée Ozenfant, Albert Jeanneret and Charles-<br />

Édouard Jeanneret (Le Corbusier) collaborated at the<br />

magazine L’Esprit Nouveau launched by, Paul Dermée<br />

and Charles-Édouard Jeanneret. (Accessed 07 August<br />

2011 @ www.fondationlecorbusier.fr/)<br />

L'Esprit Nouveau, founded in 1919 by Le Corbusier, Ozenfant, and the poet Paul<br />

Dermee, and published until 1925.<br />

Cover, L’Esprit Nouveau, No.<br />

24, June 1924, accessed 07<br />

August 2011 @<br />

www.fondationlecorbusier.fr/<br />

L’Esprit Nouveau, No. 24,<br />

June 1924, ‘The Modern<br />

Office’<br />

PURISM<br />

‘everything that matters<br />

is to be found in the<br />

card box of the<br />

researcher who wrote<br />

it, and the scholar<br />

studying it assimilates<br />

it into his own card<br />

index.’ (Benjamin<br />

[1921] 1979, p.62)<br />

Cover: L'Esprit Nouveau, No.<br />

1, October, 1920, accessed<br />

07 August 2011 @<br />

www.fondationlecorbusier.fr/<br />

‘Card Index File’ reproduced in L’Esprit<br />

Nouveau, No. 24, June, 1924


Petit bourgeois anachronisms<br />

Chesterfield (18th Century<br />

English – c.1773: Earl of<br />

Chesterfield) style button leather<br />

arm chair.<br />

Chesterfield style lounge setting<br />

Le Corbusier (LC2 – 1929<br />

modernist). The style of chair placed<br />

in his office by Prime Minister Paul<br />

Keating and replaced by John Howard<br />

who preferred Chesterfield (both<br />

anachronistic?)<br />

Le Corbusier (Charles-Edouard Jeanneret-Gris<br />

1887-1965) Villa Savoye, Poissy-sur-Seine, 1929-30<br />

(a house is a "machine a habiter," a machine for living,<br />

1923).<br />

Modernism for modernity<br />

Le Corbusier et Joséphine Baker à<br />

bord du Lutétia [sailing from Rio de<br />

Janeiro to Bordeaux], 1929, © FLC/ADAGP,<br />

accessed 07 August 2011 @


Early 20th Century Modernity in Graphic Design as Reductive Semiological Tautology<br />

GERMANY<br />

Photograph of Lucian<br />

Bernhard (1883-1972)<br />

Sachplakat<br />

(“object-poster”)<br />

Lucian Bernhard. Poster for Preister<br />

Matches. 1905.<br />

Tautology: the saying of the same thing twice in different words,<br />

generally considered to be a fault of style (e.g., they arrived one after<br />

the other in succession). (Oxford Dictionary. Mac OSX 2006)<br />

Pierce’s Symbol and Icon<br />

Saussure’s Signifier and Signified<br />

Barthes’ denoted linguistic sign (anchorage) –<br />

and non-coded iconic sign<br />

Lucian Bernhard. BOSCH 1914. Lithograph, Automotive<br />

Spark Plug Advertisement for a German Lighting<br />

Company (The Modern Poster p.91)<br />

• Pierce, Charles S (1895-1902), “Logic as Semiotic: The Theory of Signs” in Innis R.E (ed) 1985, Semiotics: An Introductory<br />

Anthology, Indiana UP, Bloomington, pp.4-23.<br />

• Saussure, Ferdinand de (1913), “From Course in General Linguistics Part One: Chapter I, Chapter IV & Chapter V” rpt. in Adams H<br />

(ed) 1992, Critical Theory Since Plato, Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, New York, pp.717-726<br />

• Barthes, Roland (1957), “Myth Today” in Mythologies, Hill & Wang, New York, rpt. 1987, pp.109-158 (Please read the whole essay or at<br />

least pp.109-117)<br />

• Barthes, Roland (1964), “Rhetoric of the Image” in Image Music Text, Fontana Press, London, rpt. 1977, pp.32-51


Luchian Bernhard (1883-1972),<br />

Bosch-Licht, 1913, Colour<br />

Lithograph, 92.1 x 67 cm.<br />

Sachplakat (“object-poster”) – German graphic design<br />

Ludwig Hohlwein (1874-1949), Marque<br />

PKZ, (Poster for men’s clothier), 1908,<br />

Colour Lithograph, 127 x 96.5cm.<br />

MOMA, NY.<br />

Hans Rudi Erdt (1883-1918) Opel, 1911,<br />

Poster, Deutsches Historisches Museum,<br />

Berlin.<br />

Sachplakat design implied modernity and<br />

pointed toward future trends in advertising<br />

with the use of:<br />

• Radical simplification<br />

• Blunt messages (Eskilson 2007, p.110)


Photograph of Peter Behrens<br />

(German, 1868-1940)<br />

Peter Behrens (1868-1940)<br />

Logo for AEG (Allgemeine<br />

Elektricitäts-Gesellschaft).<br />

1907. Collection of Philip<br />

B. Meggs.<br />

Peter Behrens. (1868-1940).<br />

Behrens-Antiqua font set c.1909<br />

Peter Behrens. (1868-1940). Electric Kettle.<br />

1909. Nickel-plated brass and rattan, 22.9<br />

x 22.2 x 15.9 cm. Manufactured by<br />

Allegemeine Elektricitæts-Gesellschaft<br />

(AEG), Germany. Gift of Manfred Ludewig.<br />

MOMA


Peter Behrens (1868-1940). 1912 Brochure<br />

advertising nickel-plated and brass-plated<br />

AEG Kettles, first designed in 1909.<br />

Deutsche Werkbund 1907<br />

Peter Behrens (1868-1940).<br />

Advertisement for AEG<br />

(Allgemeine Elektrizitats<br />

Gesellschaft) of Berlin light<br />

bulbs, 1908. Poster. (rpt. Aynsley,<br />

p.17)<br />

Peter Behrens (1868-1940).<br />

Withrawn Deutsche Werkbund<br />

Exhibition poster 1914.<br />

"The Deutsche Werkbund's<br />

exhbition in Cologne in 1914 was an<br />

important climax to the<br />

organization's initiatives to display<br />

the outstanding aesthetic qualities<br />

of German industrial goods. On the<br />

eve of World War I, however,<br />

Behren's design was considered too<br />

aggressive and withdrawn, to be<br />

replaced by a more moderate design<br />

by Fritz Ehmcke." (Aynsley, p.17)


Adolf Meyer (1818-1929)<br />

Architect.<br />

Deutsche Werkbund 1907 to bauhaus<br />

Walter Gropius (1883-1969) and Adolf Meyer<br />

(1818-1929). Fagus Factory, Alfeld an der<br />

Leine. 1911.<br />

Photograph (Atelier Schneider):<br />

Portrait of Walter Gropius. 1920.<br />

(Rpt. <strong>Dr</strong>oste 23)


1919 – BAUHAUS CORE SLOGAN: 'COMMUNITY-HANDICRAFT-ARCHITECTURE'<br />

Director: Walter Gropius.<br />

Walter Gropius (1883-1969). Bauhaus Manifesto. 1919. With a woodcut by the artist Lyonel Feininger (rpt. <strong>Dr</strong>oste 1990, p.18)<br />

• Merging of Art and Craft (including architects, painters and sculptors).<br />

• To form a new guild of craftsmen without the class distinctions that will desire, conceive and create the new<br />

structure of the future – which will one day rise toward heaven from the hands of a million workers like the<br />

crystal symbol of a new faith<br />

• Organised around: Masters, journeymen and apprentices, with teaching arising from the character of the<br />

workshop


Theo van Doesburg and the influence of De Stijl on the Bauhaus<br />

1922 – BAUHAUS CORE SLOGAN: 'ART AND TECHNOLOGY - A NEW UNITY'<br />

Director: Walter Gropius.<br />

Theo van Doesburg (1883-1931). The Bauhaus<br />

conquered by De Stijl – Theo van Doesburg sent<br />

this postcard of Weimar Bauhuas to Antony Kok<br />

on 12 September 1921. BAUHAUS. (rpt. <strong>Dr</strong>oste<br />

1990, p.56)<br />

Theo van Doesburg<br />

(1883-1931).<br />

Composition (The<br />

Cow). c.1917. Oil on<br />

canvas. 38 x 64 cm.<br />

MOMA. New York.<br />

Theo van Doesburg<br />

(1883-1931).<br />

Photograph by Lucia<br />

Moholy, 1924 (rpt.<br />

<strong>Dr</strong>oste 1990, p.57)<br />

"The aim of the formative artist is simply this: to give form to his aesthetic<br />

experience of reality or, one might also say, his creative experience of the<br />

fundamental essence of things. ... The only way in which visual art can be<br />

developed and deployed is by revaluing and purifying the formative<br />

means. Arms, legs, trees, and landscape are not unequivocally painterly<br />

means. Painterly means are: colours, forms, lines, and planes. (Theo van<br />

Doesburg (1883-1931). "from Principles of Neo-Plastic Arte 1917-25" in<br />

Art in Theory, p.280)<br />

Bauhaus Seals:<br />

• Left: The First Seal for the Staatliche Bauhaus,<br />

Weimar.1919. Design by Karl Peter Rohl.<br />

• Right: Seal for the Staatliche Bauhaus,<br />

Weimar.1923: Design by Oscar Schlemmer.


1927 bauhaus CORE SLOGAN: 'FUNCTIONAL-COLLECTIVIST-CONSTRUCTIVE'<br />

Director: Hannes Meyer (1889-1954)<br />

Marcel Breuer (1901-1981) Nest of Tables B9. 1925-26.<br />

BAUHAUS.<br />

Hannes Meyer on the workshops:<br />

• 'Greatest possible cost-efficiency'<br />

• 'Self-administration of each cell'<br />

• 'Productive teaching principles'<br />

• Calls for Bauhaus models which suit the 'needs of the<br />

people – the proletariat'<br />

• 'Popular necessities before elitist luxuries'<br />

• 'Standard production' not the personalities or natures.<br />

• Created a Workshop to address the subject of 'Advertising'<br />

Hannes Meyer and two students at Bauhaus. c.1928.<br />

BAUHAUS.


Filippo Tommaso Marinetti<br />

(1876-1944) in Straw Hat<br />

and Gloves. c.1909, B&W<br />

14.5 x 10.5cm, Yale<br />

University Archives,<br />

Beinecke Library<br />

Italian Futurism & the Russian Avant Garde<br />

Futurist in Paris in 1912. Left to Right,<br />

Luigi Russolo, Carlo Carra, F.T. Marinetti,<br />

Umberto Boccioni and Gino Severini.<br />

On the 20th of February 1909, Poet Filippo<br />

Tommaso Marinetti (1876-1944) announced<br />

the new tendency 'FUTURISM' in “The<br />

Foundation and Manifesto of<br />

Futurism” (1908), published concurrently, in<br />

France and Italy, in Le Figaro Paris and the<br />

literary magazine POESIA Milano, Editor F.T.<br />

Marinetti. (“The Foundation and Manifesto of<br />

Futurism” 1908, originally published in Le<br />

Figaro Paris, 20 February 1909, rpt. Art in<br />

Theory 1992, pp.145-149)<br />

• Later in 1909, Marinetti’s manifesto was also published in Russia.<br />

• Filippo Tommaso Marinetti (1876-1944) "Futurist Painting: Technical Manifesto" 11 April 1910. Originally published in a pamphlet in Milano, 11<br />

April 1910 (rpt. Chipp p.284; pp.289-293)<br />

• In his manifestos, Marinetti insisted that artists turn their backs on the art of the PAST and REJECT CONVENTIONAL STUDIO PROCEDURES,<br />

in favour of NEW Concerns with the VITAL, NOISY life of the industrial city and the modern machine, such as automobiles and aircraft.<br />

• The TOTAL EXPERIENCE OF MODERNITY promoted by Futurism was, as ideology if nothing else, VITAL, MOVING AND FRACTURED INTO<br />

INTERCHANGEABLE COMPONENTS.<br />

IN RUSSIA<br />

• By 1912 the poet Vladimir Mayakovsky is referring to himself as a Russian Futurist and after the 1917 communist revolution he will<br />

refer to himself as a ComFut (Communist-Futurist) poet.<br />

• In December 1913, the poets Aleksei Khruchenykh, Vladimir Khlebnikov and the painter Kasmir Malevich issue a manifesto as well<br />

as write and produce an chaotic futurist opera about an aviator entitled Victory over the Sun.<br />

• In 1914, Marinetti visits Russia for the first time.


MARX, LENIN, THE OCTOBER 1917 REVOLUTION, TAYLORISM AND THE SOVIET AVANT-GARDE<br />

Lenin in 1918 on the Immediate Tasks of the Soviet government and Taylorism:<br />

“The Soviet Republic must at all costs adopt all that is valuable in the achievements of science and technology in the field. The<br />

possibility of building Socialism is conditioned precisely upon our success in combining the Soviet power and the Soviet<br />

organization of administration with the up-to-date achievements of capitalism. We must organise in Russia the study and<br />

teaching of the Taylor system and systematically try it out and adapt it to our purposes. At the same time, in working to raise<br />

the productivity of labour, we must take into account the specific features of the transition period from capitalism to Socialism,<br />

which, on the one hand, require that the foundations be laid of the socialist organization of competition, and on the other hand<br />

the use of compulsion, so that the slogan of the dictatorship of the proletariat shall not be desecrated by the practice of a<br />

jellyfish proletarian government.” (p.471)<br />

Ref: Lenin, V I (Ulyanov) 1918, ‘The immediate tasks of the Soviet Government’ (Pravda No. 83, and Izvestia of the All-Russian<br />

Central Executive Committee No.85, April 28, 1918) Rpt. 1951, Selected Works in Two Volumes. Vol II., Part 1. Trans. Marx-Engels-<br />

Lenin Institute, Foreign Languages Publishing House, Moscow, pp.470-471.<br />

Aleksei Gastev (1895-1938), an<br />

experiment in ‘psychotechnics’ in a<br />

laboratory of the Central Institute of<br />

Labour<br />

Vsevolod Meierkhold<br />

(1874-1940), ‘biomechanic’ for<br />

actors – obligatory daily onehour<br />

long exercise –<br />

presented as ‘theatrical<br />

equivalent of industrial timeand-motion<br />

study’ –<br />

Taylorized actor-training<br />

(Braun 1998, pp.174-176)


Dziga Vertov in early 1921<br />

Dziga Vertov (1896-1954)<br />

Born Denis Arkadievitch Kauffman in Byalistok, Poland. Educated at the Music<br />

Academy Byalistok, Poland 1912-15. Attended medical school in St.Petersburg/<br />

Petrograd, 1916-17.<br />

• 1916 becomes involved with Futurists and other avant-garde groups.<br />

• 1917 adopts pseudonym "Dziga Vertov" (Spinning Top), becomes editor and<br />

writer for newsreel section of Moscow Cinema Committee.<br />

• 1919 Kinoks-Revolution Manifesto (published in LEF c. 1922-23): takes a<br />

position against fiction films and for reportage-type films.<br />

• 1921 organises film activities on agit-steamboats and agit-trains.<br />

• 1922 begins developing theory of "Kino-Glaz".<br />

• 1922-25 works on Kino-pravda and Goskinokalender newsreel series.<br />

• 1924 Elizoveta Svilova (wife) begins collaboration with Vertov.<br />

“…I am the Cine-Eye. I am the mechanical eye. I the machine show you the<br />

world as only I can see it.” Dziga Vertov 1923.<br />

Ref: D. Vertov. 'Kinoki. Perevorot', Lef, No. 3. June/July, 1923: 135-43. Rpt. as “Dziga Vertov: The Cine-Eyes. A<br />

Revolution” Document 31, in Taylor, R and Christie, I (ed. & trans) 1994, The Film Factory: Russian and Soviet Cinema in<br />

Documents 1896-1939, Routledge, London, pp.89-94.


Vertov’s Kino-Eye Group<br />

Members of the Cine-Eye group c.1923. From left to<br />

right: Elizaveta Svilova, Ilya Kopalin, Boris Kudinov,<br />

P. Zotov, I. Bushkin and Mikhail Kaufman, Vertov’s<br />

brother.<br />

Alexander Rodchenko Film Eye (Cine-Eye or<br />

Kino-Eye) Poster for six films by the Dziga<br />

Vertov group. 1924. Lithograph. 92.7 x 69.9<br />

cm. Study Collection - Museum of Modern<br />

Art, New York.


Vertov's manifesto, 'We', extolled the American film for its example of 'ostentatious dynamism', 'rapid shot<br />

changes and close-ups' (69), and he also launched into his celebrated theme on the need to become a machine.<br />

His pronouncement is worth quoting at length:<br />

In the face of the machine we are ashamed of man's (sic) inability to control himself, but what are we to do<br />

if we find the unerring ways of electricity more exciting than the disorderly haste of active people and the<br />

demoralising inertia of the passive.<br />

For us the joy of dancing saws in a sawmill is more familiar and easier to understand than the joy of<br />

human beings.<br />

WE exclude for the time being man as an object of filming because of his inability to control his own<br />

movements.<br />

Our path – from a bumbling citizen through the poetry of the machine to the perfect electric man.<br />

By revealing the souls of machines, by making the worker love his lathe, the peasant his tractor, the<br />

driver his engine –<br />

We bring creative joy to all mechanical labour,<br />

We bring men closer to machines,<br />

We train the new men.<br />

The new man, liberated from unwieldiness and awkwardness, with the precise, light movements of the<br />

machine, will be the grateful object of the filming<br />

(Vertov, Dziga. "My Variant Manifesta" in Kino-Fot. No. 1. 25-31 August 1922. 11-12. rpt. as "Dziga Vertov: We. A<br />

Version of a Manifesto" Document 21 in Taylor R and Christie I (ed. & Trans.) 1994, The Film Factory: Russian<br />

and Soviet Cinema in Documents 1896-1939, Routledge, London, pp.69-71).


Vladimir & Georgii Stenberg The Man with the<br />

Movie Camera 1929. Offset lithograph. 100.5<br />

x 69.2cm. MOMA. NY<br />

Vladimir & Georgii Stenberg The Man with the<br />

Movie Camera 1929. Offset lithograph. 104.5 x<br />

66.4cm. Batsu Art Gallery. Tokyo


The Man with the Movie Camera. 1929. Dir. Dziga Vertov. Silent. B&W.<br />

67 min. Grab: 1min 37sec “Cinema camera = Kino Eye & Kino<br />

Machine. Kino Machine + Film Editor = Assemblage”


TYPOGRAPHER AND ART DIRECTOR AS EFFICIENCY ENGINEER/CONSTRUCTOR<br />

Modernist special editions (avant-garde self promotion material), posters and other print based publicity:<br />

• Reductionist – clarity<br />

• Functionalist – readability (or at the very least legible rather than cluttered)<br />

Kurt Schwitters (1887-1948) Merz Werbezentrale.<br />

Envelope. 1924. Hannover, Germany. . Letterpress<br />

(Lupton & Cohen p.54)<br />

“This envelope for Schwitter’s advertising agency uses a<br />

framework of heavy rules inspired by Constructivism. The<br />

word “<strong>Dr</strong>ucksache” (stationary) is set in a delicate script<br />

that contrasts with the rest of the design.<br />

The text that edges the thick red rule announces the firm’s<br />

services: modern posters, pictorial publicity, typo-logos,<br />

logos, packages, catalogues, prices lists, advertisements,<br />

lighted signs, texts. E.C.K” (Lupton and Cohen p.54)<br />

In 1927, Kurt Schwitters with Jan Tschichold and others formed the Ring neue Werbegestaler (Circle of the<br />

New Advertising Typographer).


1927: Ring neuer<br />

Werbegestalter (Circle of New<br />

Advertising Designers)<br />

Kurt Schwitters (1887-1948). Title page of<br />

Merz, No. 11, 1924. Letterpress. June and<br />

Robert Leibowits Collection, New York. (rpt.<br />

Andel 2002, p.203)<br />

Gefesselter Blick [The Captured Glance],<br />

edited by Heinz and Bodo Rasch in 1931,<br />

promoted the ideas of the Ring by<br />

presenting 25 short monographs on<br />

designers, accompanied by examples of<br />

their work. The cover shows a photocollage<br />

by Will Baumeister and a photogram by El<br />

Lissitzky. (rpt. Aynsley 2001, p.71)<br />

Graphic Designers listed on the<br />

cover of Gefesselter Blick are:<br />

• Otto Baumberger<br />

• Willi Baumeister<br />

• Bill<br />

• Max Burchartz<br />

• Johannes Canis<br />

• Cyliax<br />

• Walter Dexel<br />

• Cesar Domeia<br />

• Herman Elias<br />

• Werner Gräff<br />

• John Heartfield<br />

• Franz Krauss<br />

• Geschwister Leistikow<br />

• El Lissitzky<br />

• Robert Michel<br />

• Moholy-Nagy<br />

• Brüder Rasch<br />

• Hans Richter<br />

• Paul Schuitema<br />

• Kurt Schwitters<br />

• Mart Stam<br />

• Karel Teige<br />

• G. Trump<br />

• Jan Tschichold<br />

• Vordemberge-Gildewart<br />

• Piet Zwart


In Germany, beyond the bauhaus: independent graphic design initiatives.<br />

Jan Tschichold (1902-1974)<br />

Head of design, Penguin Books,<br />

1946-1949<br />

Typographiche Mitteilungen,<br />

1915<br />

Contributors listed on the cover of the Typographische Mitteilungen are:<br />

• Natan Altman • Otto Baumberger • Herbert Bayer • Max Burchartz<br />

• El Lissitzky • Ladislaus Moholy-Nagy • Molnár F. Farkas<br />

• Johannes Molzahn • Kurt Schwitters • Mart Stam • Jan Tschichold<br />

Jan Tschichold (1902-1974). Cover of<br />

Typographische Mitteilungen;<br />

Sonderheft; Elementare Typogrphie<br />

[Typographical Newsletter; Special<br />

Issue; Elementary Typography], 1925.


Jan Tschichold (1902-1974). Title page and frontpiece of Die Neue<br />

Typographie [The New Typography], 1928.<br />

In Tschichold’s definition of New Typography the organising elements have in common:<br />

• Asymmetrical layout<br />

• Preference for recently foundered san serif fonts<br />

• Incorporation of photography, photomontage and/or photograms<br />

• Elimination of non-essential or illustrative decorative elements<br />

• Reduction of colour and form<br />

• Use of standard DIN sizes and weights of paper: such as A5; A4; A3, etc.<br />

Tschichold commences his text by<br />

emphatically stating that the New Typography<br />

must embrace modernity and introduce into its<br />

procedure and outcomes:<br />

• The laws of machine production<br />

• Primary shapes –geometric forms<br />

• Economy, Precision and function<br />

• Construction – the typographer and graphic<br />

designer as engineer (not artist)


Beatrice L. Warde (1900-1969)<br />

Portrait of Beatrice L. Warde, by<br />

Bernard Brussel-Smith. 1950.<br />

Wood engraving on Basingwerk<br />

Parchment.<br />

Beatrice Warde being<br />

introduced before giving a<br />

lecture in the Heritage of the<br />

Graphic Arts lecture series at<br />

Gallery 303. New York. 1967.<br />

‘Talking, broadcasting, writing, and printing are all quite literally forms of thought transference, and it is this<br />

ability and eagerness to transfer and receive the contents of the mind that is almost alone responsible for<br />

human civilisation.<br />

[...]<br />

Type well used is invisible as type, just as the perfect talking voice is the unnoticed vehicle for the<br />

transmission of words, ideas.’ (Warde 1932 rpt. Swanson 2000, p.92)


Penguin cover, 1935.<br />

“...the mental eye focuses through type and<br />

not upon it. The type which, through any<br />

arbitrary warping of design or excess of<br />

‘colour,’ gets in the way of the mental pictures<br />

to be conveyed, is bad type.” (Warde 1932 rpt.<br />

Swanson 2000, p.94)<br />

A mixture of fonts appear on the cover, but in the form of a grid<br />

structured banner or poster in a reductivist layout.<br />

The font used for the text of the book would invariably be a serif<br />

font, such as Times or Times New Roman.


R.U.R. (ROSSUM’S UNIVERSAL ROBOTS) . Photograph of the<br />

1923 New York Production<br />

TAYLORISM<br />

Modernity = Taylorism + Fordism = Dystopia<br />

Fredrick Winston Taylor (1856-1915).The Principles and Methods of Scientific Management. 1911<br />

The three fundamental principles of Taylorism are:<br />

1) Dissociation of the labour process from the skill of workers<br />

2) Separation of conception from execution<br />

3) Use of this monopoly over knowledge to control each step of the labour process and its mode of execution.<br />

Karel Capek<br />

(1890-1938)<br />

“Robot, a word coined from the Czech 'robota' (meaning drudgery). A play by the Czech novelist Karel Capek<br />

(1890-1938) entitled R.U.R. (1920), which stands for 'Rossum's Univeral Robots', was first performed in<br />

England in 1923, and the concept of the mechanical robot has opened up a whole new vein of Science Fiction<br />

as well as adding a word to the English language.” (Oxford Concise Companion to English Literature, <strong>Dr</strong>abble<br />

M and Stringer J (eds) 1996, Oxford UP, Oxford, p.497)<br />

“dystopia |disˈtōpēә|<br />

noun<br />

an imagined place or state in which<br />

everything is unpleasant or bad,<br />

typically a totalitarian or<br />

environmentally degraded one. The<br />

opposite of Utopia.” (Oxford<br />

Dictionary, Mac OSX 2009)


Metropolis Dir: Fritz Lang (1890–1976)<br />

(1925-1926: released 1927) Film poster.<br />

METROPOLIS 1927 Dir. Fritz Lang. Writ. Fritz Lang & Thea von Harbou<br />

Paul M. Jensen’s synopsis of the film:<br />

Film Still: Metropolis (1926).<br />

Showing: <strong>Jon</strong> Fredersen<br />

(Industrialist/Capitalist),<br />

Rotwang (Mad Scientist) and<br />

Robot (Evil Cyborg) Maria<br />

In the year 2000, Freder, the son of the Master of Metropolis, rebels against the<br />

way his half of the city—the idle "aristocracy"—has dehumanized the labourers.<br />

Limited to lives of hard and lengthy work, the latter live underground, below the<br />

halls where the machines are located. Potential rebellion has been prevented by<br />

Maria, who urges her companions to await the arrival of a mediator who will<br />

unite the city. Freder is that saviour, but he is hindered by his father, who orders<br />

a robot that exactly duplicates Maria to spread dissatisfaction among the<br />

workers. The plan succeeds and a mob smashes the machines, thus causing<br />

their own homes to be flooded. Thinking that they have drowned their children,<br />

the workers attack the robot and burn "her". Meanwhile, Freder and the real<br />

Maria have rescued the children. Suddenly Rotwang, a scientist who built the<br />

robot, chases the girl on to the cathedral roof. Freder follows, and in the ensuing<br />

struggle Rotwang loses his balance and falls to his death. Seeing his son's<br />

danger, Joh Fredersen relents and agrees to shake hands with a representative<br />

of the workers. (p.6)


“Metropolis - vertical city” Metropolis 1927. Black & White. Silent. Dir: Fritz<br />

Lang. Writ: Fritz Lang & Thea von Harbou. Novel: Thea von Harbou. Perf:<br />

Brigitte Helm, Alfred Abel, Gustav Fröhlich, Rudolf Klein-Rogge. Grab<br />

Length: 1min 05 sec.<br />

"The imagery of the tower of Babel (the machine centre of Metropolis is actually called the<br />

New Tower of Babel) relates technology to myth and legend. The biblical myth is used to<br />

construct the ideological message about the division of labour into the hands that build and<br />

the brains that plan and conceive, a division of which, as the film suggests, must be<br />

overcome" (p.200)


Siegfried Kracauer<br />

(1889-1966)<br />

MASS<br />

ORNAMENT<br />

“The underlying meaning of an epoch and its<br />

less obvious pulsations illuminate one<br />

another reciprocally.” (p.462)<br />

“The structure of the mass ornament reflects<br />

that of the general contemporary<br />

situation.” (p.464)<br />

Laurence Tiller Troupe, from Folies Bergère at London Palladium, 1925.<br />

Mander and Mitchenson Collection, Beckenham. Photograph by Eddie<br />

Richardson<br />

FEMALE BODY AND TAYLORISM BECOMES MACHINE LIKE<br />

“The production process runs its course publicly in secret. Everyone goes through the necessary motions at the conveyor belt,<br />

performs a partial function without knowing the entirety. Similar to the pattern in the stadium, the organization hovers above the<br />

masses as a monstrous figure whose originator withdraws it from the eyes of its bearers, and who himself hardly reflects upon it. –<br />

It is conceived according to rational principles which the Taylor system only takes to its final conclusion. The hands in the factory<br />

correspond to the legs of the Tiller Girls. Psycho-technical aptitude tests seek to compute emotional dispositions above and<br />

beyond manual abilities. The mass ornament is the aesthetic reflex of the rationality aspired to by the prevailing economic<br />

system.” (464)<br />

“No matter how low one rates the value of the mass ornament, its level of reality is still above that of artistic productions which<br />

cultivate obsolete noble sentiments in withered forms – even when they have no further significance.” (465)<br />

Kracauer S, "The Mass Ornament" Frankfurter Zeitung, 9-10 June 1927, rpt. Harrison C & Wood P (eds) 1992, Art in Theory. 1900-1990: An Anthology of<br />

Changing Ideas, Blackwell, Oxford, UK:, pp.462-465.


Female golfing: ready-to-wear<br />

sports clothes. c.1910 (Mendes<br />

& de la Haye 1999, p.30)<br />

CLOTHING MODERNITY<br />

FASHION & MODERNITY<br />

USA-Female cyclists, popular<br />

pastime requiring<br />

appropriate modifications to<br />

fashion. 1902. (Mendes & de<br />

la Haye. 20th C Fashion 1999,<br />

p.28)<br />

French poster by de Passe for Ford<br />

Automobiles, c.1905. Musée des Arts<br />

Décoratifs (Gallo, p.173)<br />

‘The new craze for motoring called for<br />

protective clothing suitable for travel in<br />

open cars, though in April 1905 the<br />

Duchess of Sutherland (President of<br />

the Ladies Automobile Club, London)<br />

dispensed with the usual gauntlet<br />

gloves, veils and goggles. She guarded<br />

her hair with a large, flat-crowned hat<br />

(its streamers firmly tied under the<br />

chin) and wore a roomy dustcoat over<br />

her daytime ensemble.’ (Mendes & de la<br />

Haye 1999, p.31)


NEW EFFICIENCY IN DRESS AND WORK – WORLD WAR I (1914-1918) AND ITS LEGACY<br />

Casualties of World War One (1914-1918)<br />

• United Kingdom: 745,000 dead and approximately<br />

160,000 men wounded or gassed.<br />

• Australia: approximately 60,000 dead (Total population<br />

about 5 million in 1918).<br />

<strong>Jon</strong>as Lucien (1880-1947), Emprunt<br />

de la Liberation – Souscrivez<br />

[Liberation Loan – Subscribe],<br />

1918, Lithograph, 119.4cm x<br />

78.7cm, for Crédit Industriel et<br />

Commercial, Paris, France.<br />

(Imperial War Museum, UK)<br />

Manufacturing and filling<br />

shells. U.K. munitions<br />

Factory. c.1915.<br />

Women's Royal Air Force Motorcycle Dispatch Rider. c.<br />

1917. Imperial war Museum, London. (Mendes & de la<br />

Haye 54)<br />

1916 (1914-1918 World War) German dead<br />

lie round a machine gun post at<br />

Guillemont.


Ernst Deutsch. Detail of a poster for:<br />

Mercedes Typewriters. c.1911. Stuttgart,<br />

Staatsgalerie. (Gallo, p.159)<br />

NEW EFFICIENCY IN DRESS AND WORK<br />

The First Bra: The original patent<br />

granted to Mary Phelps Jacob in 1914.<br />

(O'Hara, p.50)


Beginnings of the ‘flapper’<br />

Cover of the popular French<br />

novel: La Garçonne 1922, by<br />

Victor Margueritte. (Mendes & de<br />

la Haye p.59)<br />

Fashionable young garçonne<br />

wearing an afternoon dress in<br />

pale mauve crepe-de-chine by<br />

Welly Sœurs. c.1926. (Mendes<br />

& de la Haye p.59).<br />

Cloche<br />

“Woman’s hat worn from c.1915 until the<br />

mid-1930s, achieving greatest popularity<br />

during the 1920s. The cloche is tightfitting,<br />

covering the head from the neck<br />

and worn pulled down low over the<br />

forehead. It can be brimmed or brimless. In<br />

the 1920s cloches were often decorated<br />

with grosgrain ribbon.” (Callan 1998 p66)<br />

The broad appeal of the garçonne<br />

The transition from Romantic to Modern<br />

Style–1924. Left and centre by Jean<br />

Patou, Right (red) by Jacques Doucet.<br />

(Mendes & de la Haye p.56)<br />

Lyrics & Music: Noël Coward Dance<br />

Little Lady, 1928, 2min 48sec


“Louise Brooks was one of the many<br />

actresses to wear Patou’s gowns in the<br />

1920s” (O’Hara Callan 178)<br />

French fashion designer Jean Patou and the flapper<br />

Louise Brooks Bob - “The<br />

Hollywood actress Louise<br />

Brooks, whose vivid beauty,<br />

chic, bobbed hair and<br />

vitality personify the 1920s<br />

goddess” (Mendes & de la<br />

Haye 61)<br />

Jean Patou (1880-1936) French Fashion Designer -<br />

“Jean Patou in 1924, with the six American models<br />

he brought over to Paris to show his new<br />

collection” (O’Hara Callan 179)


Louise Brooks (1906-1985) – the American flapper (garçonne)<br />

Documentary: Looking For Lulu (On the life of Louise Brooks).<br />

Keffner & Turner Production. Color & B/W. Sound. 60 minutes.<br />

Grab: 3min35sec<br />

Shots from early films (c.1926-27) starring Louise Brooks<br />

Shots of flappers doing the charleston (jazz dance).


Josephine Baker. c.1925, Paris. ”In the<br />

1920s Josephine Baker [USA]<br />

captivated the whole of Europe with<br />

her completely new, rather absurd<br />

dancing style to the accompaniment of<br />

jazz music. <strong>Dr</strong>essed only in s costume<br />

of feathers or bananas, she introduced<br />

many of the Charleston-style<br />

movements” (Lehnert p.19)<br />

• Jazz and mass culture (Chinitz 1997, pp.320-321)<br />

• Gendering of jazz and “the relation of both jazz and the feminine to the primitive” (p.321)<br />

Thor Bogelund. Poster for Tivoli<br />

Amusement Park, Copenhagen. 1930.<br />

(Gallo p.225)<br />

“In 1920s criticism, jazz was perceived to be so deeply implicated in avant-garde aesthetics that what we now call modernism<br />

could usefully be termed jazz art.” (p.322)<br />

Josephine Baker C’est lui,<br />

c.1924, 3min 3sec<br />

Paul Colin. Poster for the Revue<br />

Nègre at the Champs-Elysées<br />

Music Hall, 1925. Paris,<br />

Bibliotheque Nationale.


Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) Advertisement<br />

appeared on 4 September 1935, before the word<br />

'Zipper' was in general use.<br />

Marcello Dudovich (1878-1962) FIAT<br />

BALILLA per tutti – eleganza della Signora.<br />

1934. Colour Lithograph. 30x22 cm. FIAT<br />

Collection. Turin, Italy.


“The Kestos bra, from a 1935 advertisement,<br />

described as a ‘cunning wisp of<br />

loveliness’” (O’Hara Callan, p.44)<br />

“… widely adopted during the 1920s when fashionable<br />

at-home dresses and, later, cocktail dresses were<br />

often made of revealing, semi-transparent fabrics. By<br />

1925, brassieres had adjustable front straps and a<br />

division between the breasts in the Bandeau front.<br />

During the late 1920s the Kestos Company of America<br />

produced a brassiere made of two triangular pieces of<br />

fabric secured to elastic that pulled over the<br />

shoulders, crossed at the back, and buttoned at the<br />

front under a darted "cup." During the late 1920s and<br />

1930s corsetry companies began manufacturing<br />

brassieres which were boned and stitched into<br />

different cup sizes. A boned strapless brassiere<br />

appeared in the late 1930s and it was during this<br />

decade that the word bra came into popular<br />

usage.” (O’Hara Callan, p.43)


READING THE IMAGE<br />

Kanti Schawinsky (1904-1979) Olivetti.<br />

1934. Lithograph. 51 x 34.5cm.<br />

“The graphic artist responsible for the Olivetti poster was Xanti<br />

(Alexander) Schawinsky (1904-1979), born in Switzerland but died<br />

an American. Schawinsky trained at the Dessau Bauhaus in the<br />

late 1920s, producing student works noted for their clarity of<br />

composition in a Surrealist inspired manner (<strong>Dr</strong>oste 188). At the<br />

time Schawinsky was completing his training, Adriano Olivetti, in<br />

an effort to modernise the company's systems of production,<br />

toured the United States. Subsequent to this trip, the Olivetti<br />

Company established its advertising section and employed<br />

Schawinsky between 1933 to 1936” (Woodham 1997, p.149)<br />

The poster was the result of Olivetti's advertising initiative<br />

stimulated by the study of American commerce. Paradoxically,<br />

Olivetti's interest in American efficiency, in contrast to Soviet<br />

Americanism, was on behalf of a company operating in a Fascist<br />

country, while the poster was the product of a graphic artist who<br />

graduated from a German design school closed by the Nazis in<br />

the year prior to the poster's publication. In short, the political and<br />

ideological background to the image is informed by the<br />

substantial differences that existed between the USSR, Nazi<br />

Germany, Fascist Italy and the capitalist democracy of the USA.<br />

However, the image carries representations that ride above these<br />

differences, namely the appeal of managerial efficiency,<br />

represented as the type of modern woman.


Bibliography: Technology and Early 20th Century Modernism [MLA FORMAT]<br />

Primary Text –Required Readings (Chronological)<br />

• Marinetti, Filippo Tommaso. “The Foundation and Manifesto of Futurism” (1909). Trans. R. W. Flint Rpt. Art in Theory 1900-1990: An<br />

Anthology of Changing Ideas. Eds. Charles Harrison & Paul Wood. Oxford, UK: Blackwell. 1992. 145-149.<br />

• Taylor, Frederick Winslow. “The Principles of Scientific Management” (1911) Rpt. F. W. Taylor. Scientific Management, New York:<br />

Harper and Row, 1964. 5-144.<br />

• Lenin, Vladimir Ilich (Ulyanov). “The immediate tasks of the Soviet Government” (Pravda No. 83, and Izvestia of the All-Russian<br />

Central Executive Committee No.85, April 28, 1918) Rpt. Selected Works in Two Volumes. Vol II., Part 1. Trans. Marx-Engels-Lenin<br />

Institute. Moscow: Foreign Languages Publishing House, 1951. 470-471.<br />

• Vertov, Dziga. “My Variant Manifesta” Kino-Fot. No. 1, 25-31 August 1922: 11-12. Rpt. as “Dziga Vertov: We. A Version of a Manifesto”<br />

Document 21, in The Film Factory: Russian and Soviet Cinema in Documents 1896-1939. Ed. & Trans. Richard Taylor and Ian Christie.<br />

London: Routledge, 1994. 69-71.<br />

• Capek, Karel. R.U.R. [ROSSUM'S UNIVERSAL ROBOTS] (1920). Trans. Paul Selver, Garden City, New York: Doubleday, Page &<br />

Company, 1923. (Fiction/play)<br />

• Kracauer, Siegfried. “The Mass Ornament” (first published in the FrankfurterZeitung, 9-10 June 1927) Rpt. The Mass Ornament –<br />

Weimar Essays, (1926-1933). Ed. & Trans. Thomas Y. Levin. Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press. 1995. 75-86.<br />

• Benjamin, Walter. “The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction” (1936) Illuminations. Ed. Hannah Arendt. Trans. Harry<br />

Zohn. London: Fontana, 1992. 211-244<br />

Secondary Texts – Required Readings (By Author)<br />

• Gunning, Tom. “Ch. 2. ‘Now You see It, Now You don't’: The Temporality of the Cinema of Attractions” The Silent Cinema Reader. Ed.<br />

Lee Grieveson and Peter Krämer. London: Routledge, 2004. 41-50.<br />

• Staller, Natasha. “Melies ‘Fantastic’ Cinema and the Origins of Cubism” Art History. Vol 12. No 2. June 1989: 202-232.<br />

• Wollen, Peter. “Modern Times: Cinema/Americanism/The Robot” Raiding the Icebox. Bloomington and Indianapolis: Indiana University<br />

Press, 1993. 35-71<br />

Secondary Texts – Additional Readings (By Author)<br />

• Lavin, Maud. “Photomontage, Mass Culture, and Modernity: Utopianism in the circle of new advertising designers” Montage and<br />

Modern Life 1919-1942. Ed. Matthew Teitelbaum. Cambridge, Mass: MIT Press, 1992. 36-59<br />

• Fritz Lang's Metropolis: Cinematic Visions of Technology and Fear. Ed. Michael Minden and Holger Bachmann. New York: Camden<br />

House, 2000.<br />

Cinema<br />

• Metropolis. Dir. Fritz Lang. 120 mins. B/W. Silent. 1926. (Restored DVD edition. Kino. 2002)<br />

• Berlin: Symphony of a Great City. 1927. Dir. Walther Ruttmann. B&W. 62min.<br />

• The Man with a Movie Camera Dir. Dziga Vertov. 67 min. B/W. Silent. (Chelovek S Kino Apparatom) Production: Vufku (Ukraine). 1929.<br />

Background Reading & References<br />

• Crary, <strong>Jon</strong>athan. Techniques of the Observer: On Vision and Modernity in the Nineteenth Century. Cambridge, Mass: MIT Press, 1990.<br />

• Ehrenburg, Ilya. The Life of the Automobile (1929). Trans. Joachim Neugroschell, London: Serpent's Tail, 1999.<br />

• Ford, Henry. My Life and Work: in collaboration with Samuel Crowther (1922), Arnold Place, Sydney: Cornstalk Publishing Company,<br />

1924.<br />

• Gilbreth, Frank B. and Lillian M. Writings of the Gilbreths. Eds. William R. Spriegel and Clark E. Meyers. Homewood, Illinois: Richard D.<br />

Irwin, 1953<br />

• Hughes, Thomas P. American Genesis: A Century of Invention and Technological Enthusiasm 1870-1970, New York: Viking, 1989.<br />

• Kittler, Friedrich A. “Gramophone, Film, Typewriter” Trans. Geoffrey Winthrop-Young & Michael Wutz. Stanford,<br />

California: Stanford University Press, 1999.


END OF<br />

LECTURE

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