TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats

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Choosing a new site The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook The first step is to find a new site. You don’t have to duplicate the original territory – cats in a warehouse can be moved to a backyard or from an abandoned building to a barn, etc. What the new territory does need are: (1) a reliable new caretaker who will strictly follow the guidelines for relocation and fully accept responsibility for the cats’ long-term care, (2) a structure of some sort (barn, shed, garage) that will provide shelter and protection from the elements during the confinement period, and (3) a location away from a construction site or heavy traffic. Cats can be relocated into territories where there is already a colony, but it makes the process harder for the new cats and should be avoided if possible. Also investigate other factors, including potential danger from predatory wildlife like coyotes, wolves or dogs, hostility from nearby neighbors or businesses, proximity to land designated for hunting and any other potential environmental hazard. It’s likely you won’t find the perfect site and will have to make some compromises, but it’s always good to aim for the ideal. Don’t move the cats until you have personally inspected the new location – things are not always as you might imagine. Not all barns are idyllic, cozy places filled with soft, warm hay. A nice country home may sound perfect, but if it turns out the caretaker only goes up on weekends, that won’t work because newly relocated cats need supervision for two to three weeks, including the providing of food and water on a daily basis. So spend the extra time and effort to see the prospective new place and meet the caretaker in person before you move the cats. Don’t risk receiving an unpleasant surprise and having to make a terribly difficult decision on the spot after you’ve driven for hours with trapped and frightened cats in tow. Along the same lines, never hand the cats over to someone to take to a new site you’ve never seen yourself. No matter how nice the new place may sound and how desperate you are to move the cats, you are placing them in great danger if you blindly trust that someone will take care of everything for you. There are unscrupulous people who take advantage of others’ concern for the cats and promise the cats will have a wonderful new life in their new home when nothing of the sort is true. Sometimes they charge a fee per cat, which they pocket and then simply let the cat out the back door of wherever. Others will even kill the animals out of a pathological belief they are doing a good thing for them, whether a fee is paid or not. The only way you can protect the cats from these evils is if you yourself inspect the new location. Doing the relocation Whenever possible, relocate the entire colony in order not to break up strong bonds. If that’s not feasible, then at the very least, relocate two members of the same colony together who you know are close. Neuter the cats before relocating them so they can get over the stress of the surgery before having to adjust to a new place, and nurse sick or injured cats back to health first. The process is going to be a little stressful for everyone, so you want to keep it as smooth, fast and uneventful as possible. Trap the cats, get them neutered if necessary and allow a few days for recovery. Also, be sure to tell the new caretaker-to-be the details of 87
The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook the cats’ past routine. If they’re used to eating a certain type of food, continue with it. Each change they have to make will add to their stress. Before you transport the cats to the new site, have everything set up at your destination. Inside the space where the cats will be confined, set up large playpens or cages in a quiet area, preferably close to a spot where they can hide after they’re eventually released. Typically, when they are released after the two to three week confinement period, they will be frightened and need somewhere close by to hide for a day or two while they adjust. So, for example, in a large barn, the cages could be placed near bales of hay. Or in a garage, cardboard boxes with small openings for the cats could be set up near the cages. The playpens or cages should contain a carrier the cats can hide in, a litter box and food bowls – see the Feral Cat Setup described in Chapter 11. The environment should be temperate, neither too hot nor too cold. Avoid doing a relocation to an unheated space during the severest months of winter – the cats can’t move around much or huddle together, so the cold can pose a risk to their health. If you must do it during the cold season, use small insulated shelters inside the cages that are stuffed with hay or straw instead of carriers. Cover the cages with blankets. No matter what the weather, the cats may try to escape, especially during the first few days. Be certain the caretaker knows the procedures described in Chapter 11 for how to handle feral cats in cages and demonstrate them live. The cats need fresh food and water twice a day and clean litter, so the cage door will be opened often, giving them lots of opportunities to make a run for it. In case of escape from the cage or playpen, have the caretaker set out food and water and sprinkle used litter and old feces around the area. Most likely an escaped cat inside a structure like a barn or stable will stay inside and hide rather than seek the outdoors, especially if sufficient food is available close by. Encourage the caretaker to talk to the cats and try to bond with them. They need to adjust to a new voice or voices as well as everything else that’s new. If the cats form a degree of trust and bond with the caretaker, the relocation process has a good chance of success. Keeping their feeding times on a schedule is helpful, as is feeding wet food during the period of confinement and for a few additional weeks after they’re released. The wet food is consumed faster than the dry and helps habituate the cats to a new routine. Gradually, a few weeks after the release, the wet food can be replaced or supplemented with dry, if that’s preferable. At all times, water should be provided. Three weeks of confinement is optimal. Keeping the cats confined for longer periods is not recommended. The idea is to acclimate the cats to their new surroundings so they won’t panic upon release. Once acclimation is accomplished, the stress of confinement is unnecessary and can cause the cat to want to flee the area if carried on for too long. Stay in touch with the new caretaker. You’ll want to know how the cats are doing and be available to offer any help or advice you can based on your experience with them. If at any time the relocation space becomes unsafe or unsuitable for the cats, make sure the caretaker alerts you to the situation and knows you are willing to give support and assistance. Whenever possible, have a backup plan – another site where the cats may go, even temporarily – in case of unsolvable problems. Remember to try to remove all evidence of feral life from the colony’s old location, primarily any food sources. Even if construction or renovation in the area is imminent, 88
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Contents The Neighborhood Cats TNR
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Foreword The Neighborhood Cats TNR
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6. Winter Shelter The Neighborhood
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Page 63 and 64: • Hard-to-catch cats The Neighbor
Page 69 and 70: • Directions for use by Laura Bur
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TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats

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