TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats
TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats
The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook Cover the carrier with a towel to make it darker and more inviting. Then lift open the rear door of the trap, but no higher than the top of the carrier. Otherwise, you’ll create a gap which the cat might try to squeeze through. After the trap’s rear door is raised, guide the cat into the carrier either by unfolding the sheet over the trap or pushing with the divider (Figure 7). As soon as he’s in, lower and shut the rear door of the trap. Now comes the tricky part, which is moving the trap away and shutting the carrier door without giving the cat a chance to bolt in the process. You’ll need a solid, flat object that is larger than the carrier door. Perfect is a small cutting board with a handle. Slide the board between the rear of the trap and the front opening of the carrier and press it firmly down against the ground (Figure 8). When the trap is pulled away, the board will act as a barrier and block the cat from escaping. Move the trap away and immediately shut the carrier door, pressing it up against the cutting board (which continues to block the front opening of the carrier). Then, in one motion, slide the cutting board out to the side as you close the carrier door, being sure not to leave a gap between the carrier door and the cutting board (Figure 9.) Lock the carrier door once its completely shut. If you have two people, one moves the trap away while the other shuts the carrier door and slides the cutting board away. If you’re alone, push the trap away with your foot, keeping one hand on the carrier door and holding the cutting board in place with the other. Then it’s the same motion of closing the carrier door while sliding away the cutting board in a manner that does not create a gap. Practice this technique beforehand, going through the steps with the equipment. If you have a willing house cat who will let you practice on her, that’s even better. Keep in mind there are four ways the procedure could go wrong: (1) you open the rear door of the trap too high above the height of the carrier and create a gap the cat could squeeze through; (2) the trap or the carrier shifts during the transfer, creating a gap between the doors for the cat to escape through; (3) you use too flimsy an object to block off the carrier opening, like a piece of Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9 cardboard, and the cat is able to burst through when the trap is pulled away; or (4) you don’t press down hard enough on the cutting board, allowing the cat to push it aside after the trap is moved away and before the carrier door is fully shut. If you practice beforehand and proceed carefully, the method will work. With practice, it can be done swiftly. 75
The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook 12. Spay/neuter and Veterinary Care • Preparations before surgery Withhold food & water For adult cats, all food and water should be removed from the traps by 10 p.m. the night before the spay/neuter surgery. It’s important for the cat’s stomach to be empty during the operation. Otherwise, there is a chance the cat will vomit while anesthetized and the regurgitated food could cause him to choke or gag, a potentially fatal complication. Water should be withheld, too. If too much water is ingested by a female, her bladder swells and is more exposed to an accidental cut during the spay procedure. For kittens, food and water should not be withheld for as long. They need to eat closer to the time of surgery than adults. How long before the surgery food and water should be withheld depends on their age. The younger they are, the closer in time to the operation they should be fed. Consult your veterinarian for the precise timing. For any age, food and water should be removed at least a few hours prior to surgery. Arrange for emergency post-surgery veterinary care If you’re working with experienced, competent veterinary professionals, the incidence of post-surgical complications will be very low. Still, it’s best to plan what you would do in the rare event something does go wrong after the cat has been returned to your care. If the veterinarian or clinic performing the spay/neuter will not be available at all times, then try to line up a veterinarian who will be able to respond in an emergency or locate where in your area late or early hour drop-in care is provided. Special instructions for veterinary staff Any special instructions for the veterinary staff should be written on a label on top of the trap. For example, write down if the cat is limping and you want the left front leg examined, the cat is older and you’d like the teeth looked at, there is a wound that needs cleaning, the cat is pregnant, or you want any kind of veterinary care beyond the standard treatment provided. It’s especially important to write it down in big bold lettering if you do not want the cat eartipped because you will be adopting him out. (If a mistake happens, don’t be overly concerned – eartipped cats are no less adoptable in our experience.) In addition to placing special instructions on a label, make sure they are also noted on the veterinarian or clinic’s intake form. If the clinic is experienced with ferals, they will already have their own form and you’ll simply need to relay the instructions while they or you fill the form out. If there is no intake form, don’t make the mistake of relying only 76
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The <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong> <strong>TNR</strong> <strong>Handbook</strong><br />
Cover the carrier with a towel to make it darker and more inviting. Then lift open the<br />
rear door of the trap, but no higher than the top of the carrier. Otherwise, you’ll create a<br />
gap which the cat might try to squeeze through. After the trap’s rear door is raised, guide<br />
the cat into the carrier either by unfolding the sheet over<br />
the trap or pushing with the divider (Figure 7). As soon<br />
as he’s in, lower and shut the rear door of the trap.<br />
Now comes the tricky part, which is moving the trap<br />
away and shutting the carrier door without giving the cat<br />
a chance to bolt in the process. You’ll need a solid, flat<br />
object that is larger than the carrier door. Perfect is a<br />
small cutting board with a handle. Slide the board<br />
between the rear of the trap and the front opening of the<br />
carrier and press it firmly down against the ground<br />
(Figure 8). When the trap is pulled away, the board will<br />
act as a barrier and block the cat from escaping.<br />
Move the trap away and immediately shut the carrier<br />
door, pressing it up against the cutting board (which<br />
continues to block the front opening of the carrier).<br />
Then, in one motion, slide the cutting board out to the<br />
side as you close the carrier door, being sure not to leave<br />
a gap between the carrier door and the cutting board<br />
(Figure 9.) Lock the carrier door once its completely<br />
shut.<br />
If you have two people, one moves the trap away<br />
while the other shuts the carrier door and slides the<br />
cutting board away. If you’re alone, push the trap away<br />
with your foot, keeping one hand on the carrier door and<br />
holding the cutting board in place with the other. Then<br />
it’s the same motion of closing the carrier door while<br />
sliding away the cutting board in a manner that does not<br />
create a gap.<br />
Practice this technique beforehand, going through the<br />
steps with the equipment. If you have a willing house<br />
cat who will let you practice on her, that’s even better.<br />
Keep in mind there are four ways the procedure could go<br />
wrong: (1) you open the rear door of the trap too high<br />
above the height of the carrier and create a gap the cat<br />
could squeeze through; (2) the trap or the carrier shifts<br />
during the transfer, creating a gap between the doors for<br />
the cat to escape through; (3) you use too flimsy an<br />
object to block off the carrier opening, like a piece of<br />
Figure 7<br />
Figure 8<br />
Figure 9<br />
cardboard, and the cat is able to burst through when the trap is pulled away; or (4) you<br />
don’t press down hard enough on the cutting board, allowing the cat to push it aside after<br />
the trap is moved away and before the carrier door is fully shut.<br />
If you practice beforehand and proceed carefully, the method will work. With<br />
practice, it can be done swiftly.<br />
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