TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats
TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats
The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook If you blow it If the cat escapes at some point in the process, it’s not necessarily a fatal error. I’ve had cats that wiggled out of the trap, only to come back the same day within an hour or two to try again. You’ll need to expose the cat to the trap for some period of time (short or long) until she regains confidence. One way for her to regain confidence is to see her friends eating from the trap without incident. So in this case, I would not drop the trap again until you get the cat that escaped. Strategy If there’s a cat that’s wary, particularly jumpy or pregnant, I like to catch her first and not do anything that will confirm her suspicions until she’s safely out of the way. Other cats that eat safely from the trap will return and you can get them another day. If there’s a mom cat and kittens, I try to get them first. However, don’t get too fancy with this – today’s happy chow hound is tomorrow’s mom cat. When one cat finishes eating, there’s a delicate moment when one of the other cats who’s been waiting will suddenly make up her mind to try out this new thing. If you’ve been waiting for one of these cats, you don’t want her to discover the dish is empty or have to run in at that point to adjust something. If you need to adjust the drop trap for some reason or get a better look at the cat who’s in it, approach the trap casually when the first cat is still in there. They’ll scatter, but they’ll be back as soon as you leave and will generally take up where they left off. Try to have a good view of the general area around the trap, so you don’t drop it just when a second cat is lurking nearby and thinking about entering. 65
10. Caring for Cats in Traps The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook During the trapping period and after the spay/neuter surgery, the cats need to be kept confined. Except in special cases (discussed in Chapter 11), we recommend the cats never be let out of their traps except during the surgery, after they’ve been sedated. The method of using traps to hold the cats is economical because it means not having to purchase a large cage plus assorted other equipment for each cat. The method also saves space and may make the difference between whether twenty cats can be held in a garage or not. Most importantly, in terms of avoiding escapes by the cats and injuries to caretakers, using the traps to house the cats is much safer than using normal cages. Often people who have the cats’ best interests at heart hear of this method for the first time and jump to the conclusion it’s cruel to keep a cat in that small of a space for any lengthy period of time. This belief reflects a basic misunderstanding of the feral temperament. No matter how large a cage you put a feral cat in, if there’s a small carrier in the corner, inside of that is where he’s going to stay for pretty much the entire time. In the stressful situation of confinement, ferals greatly prefer spaces that are tight, dark and covered over large, wide-open enclosures. It makes them feel more hidden and protected. (This is why a feral cat kept in a normal cage should always be provided with a small carrier or cardboard box or something similar that they can hide in.) As long as the traps are 36 inches long, covered and kept clean using the techniques described below, the cats are absolutely fine. They quickly get used to the feeding and cleaning routine and some even learn when and where to move as you go through the process. Towards the end of their confinement, they may start to get a little bored and restless, but this is the exception. Most often, during the entire time, they crouch or lie down in their traps and rest quietly. • Materials needed Traps (36” long and with rear doors) Trap dividers (at least one pair) Cotton sheets for covers (one per trap) Newspaper (lots of it!) Water dishes (with flat bottoms) Food dishes (paper or plastic) Plastic drop cloth (at least 3 millimeters thick) Latex gloves Garbage bags (optional) Tables (optional) Small towels 66
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10. Caring for <strong>Cats</strong> in Traps<br />
The <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong> <strong>TNR</strong> <strong>Handbook</strong><br />
During the trapping period and after the<br />
spay/neuter surgery, the cats need to be<br />
kept confined. Except in special cases<br />
(discussed in Chapter 11), we recommend<br />
the cats never be let out of their traps<br />
except during the surgery, after they’ve<br />
been sedated. The method of using traps to<br />
hold the cats is economical because it<br />
means not having to purchase a large cage<br />
plus assorted other equipment for each cat.<br />
The method also saves space and may<br />
make the difference between whether<br />
twenty cats can be held in a garage or not. Most importantly, in terms of avoiding<br />
escapes by the cats and injuries to caretakers, using the traps to house the cats is much<br />
safer than using normal cages.<br />
Often people who have the cats’ best interests at heart hear of this method for the first<br />
time and jump to the conclusion it’s cruel to keep a cat in that small of a space for any<br />
lengthy period of time. This belief reflects a basic misunderstanding of the feral<br />
temperament. No matter how large a cage you put a feral cat in, if there’s a small carrier<br />
in the corner, inside of that is where he’s going to stay for pretty much the entire time. In<br />
the stressful situation of confinement, ferals greatly prefer spaces that are tight, dark and<br />
covered over large, wide-open enclosures. It makes them feel more hidden and protected.<br />
(This is why a feral cat kept in a normal cage should always be provided with a small<br />
carrier or cardboard box or something similar that they can hide in.)<br />
As long as the traps are 36 inches long, covered and kept clean using the techniques<br />
described below, the cats are absolutely fine. They quickly get used to the feeding and<br />
cleaning routine and some even learn when and where to move as you go through the<br />
process. Towards the end of their confinement, they may start to get a little bored and<br />
restless, but this is the exception. Most often, during the entire time, they crouch or lie<br />
down in their traps and rest quietly.<br />
• Materials needed<br />
Traps (36” long and with rear doors)<br />
Trap dividers (at least one pair)<br />
Cotton sheets for covers (one per trap)<br />
Newspaper (lots of it!)<br />
Water dishes (with flat bottoms)<br />
Food dishes (paper or plastic)<br />
Plastic drop cloth (at least 3 millimeters thick)<br />
Latex gloves<br />
Garbage bags<br />
(optional) Tables<br />
(optional) Small towels<br />
66
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