TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats

TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats

neighborhoodcats.org
from neighborhoodcats.org More from this publisher
13.07.2013 Views

The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook One source for excellent netting material is survivalist stores. They often have heavy duty, pliable cotton or synthetic netting in stock for very low cost. One place to try is Major Surplus & Survival, 1-800-441-8855, www.MajorSurplusNSurvival.com. For example, at the time this handbook went to press, this company was offering an 8 ft. x 10 ft. “Swiss net” for $12.95 (item no. 8-0916-3) and the same item in an 8 ft. x 20 ft. size for $19.95 (item no. 8-0916-4). Athletic netting, found in some sporting goods stores, is also suitable. To attach the netting, cover the frame with one big piece (or two) before the door or flap have been mounted. Don’t pull the material taut because you want it to be loose and very malleable when a cat tries to break through it. Cut away the extra at the corners, leaving enough for a 3” overlap. Then cable tie the netting onto the frame at the corners and, if you’re using two pieces of netting, where the pieces join. Be sure the two pieces are joined together well and there’s no opening for the cat to squeeze out between them. Leave the netting long enough at the bottom to overlap the frame. Fasten the door and slides to the outside of the frame in the corner. Also attach a 14” piece of strapping or molding (at least ½” thick, 1” or 2” wide) to the inside of the frame behind the inner vertical door slide. This extra piece will allow the netting to be lashed on around the doorway. Then, using rope, lash the netting to the frame at the bottom rim and around the doorway. It’s best if the netting is only attached at the bottom of the frame and around the door and otherwise left loose. (Note: unlike the trap in the photos, which is also lashed on the top of the frame.) This allows for the covering to give when a cat pushes against it and is easier on the trap. Note: the netting should not be stapled onto the frame. The staples can rust or break the netting upon impact by a cat. Prop stick An 18” prop stick can be made out of a 1” x 1” piece of wood or with the unused half of tongue-and-groove fir flooring used for making the door slides. With either material, notch the top so the frame of the trap rests securely on the prop stick and round the bottom so the stick won’t jam when pulled. Towards the base of the prop stick, drill a hole large enough for the string to fit through, to make it easier to tie the string on. Paddle & string A paddle for holding the string can be cut out from ¼” sanded plywood, though any piece of wood you can wrap the string around will do. If you cut out a paddle, make it the shape of a ping-pong paddle that’s been on a diet – thin on top and with a handle below. The string should be the heaviest you can get (best is mason’s line) or a thin, strong rope. Fluorescent strings tend to stretch too much when wet. Transport The drop trap is fairly large and bulky. If you don’t have a station wagon, SUV or mini-van, you can put the drop trap on a roof rack. Or, if your trunk is large enough, put it in as far as you can, then use bungee cords to tie the trunk securely over it. Remember that you'll also need room in your vehicle for box traps. 61

• Directions for use by Laura Burns The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook Materials needed The drop trap and a cover for it, such as a large sheet or blanket The paddle-and-string and an anchor weight for the flap (e.g., bucket with bricks) Bait food and a large dish (also, can opener, fork, etc.) One or more box traps with rear guillotine doors or a transfer cage with guillotine door WARNING!! The drop trap isn't foolproof. Cats can escape at various points in the process, but careful technique can avoid most disasters. Practice this procedure several times and don't use the drop trap for the first time on a cat you've been trying to get for three years. You'll make mistakes at first, you'll lose a few and you don't want it to be THAT one. Once you think you've got the hang of it, you might trap a few eartipped cats for practice (you can update their rabies vaccines or just thank and release them). Quickie directions (Note: these quick directions provide an overview of how to use the drop trap, but please also review the detailed directions that follow.) 1. Set up in a good location where the ground is level and you’ll be able to observe the trap clearly from a distance. Position the trap so the door will be facing you as you watch. 2. Place a plentiful amount of food in the center-back of the trap. 3. Leave some box traps and covers within arm’s reach of the drop trap. 4. Stand back a good distance (depends on the cats) with an unfolded blanket or sheet, holding the cord. Ask observers to stay back unless you call them. 5. When cat or cats **have settled down** to eat at the back of the trap, give the cord a good yank. 6. Run or walk up to the trap and COVER COMPLETELY. This is important if they're very wild! If you're alone, hold the trap down firmly and wait for the cats to settle before you attempt the transfer. 7. You want to get the cat(s) out as quickly and quietly as possible and reset the trap. 8. Line up the box trap to receive the cat, cover it with a towel or sheet. DON'T cover the far end of the box trap - you want it to look like an exit. CAREFULLY arrange towel and blanket to cover gaps between the two traps, place your foot on the box trap to keep it from shifting -- and open both doors. Stand very still. 9. If the cat doesn't move into the box trap in 15 seconds, twitch the cover over the drop trap or call a helper to motivate the cat to enter the box trap. Keep the cover on between you and the cat so he can’t see you standing by the door. 10. Close BOTH doors when the cat has entered the box trap. If there are other cats remaining in the drop trap, you'll usually transfer them one at a time. 11. Cover the box trap fully and remove the cat to some distance if he's the only one. If there are others, just put him aside while you transfer the others. Then reset the trap and move the cats away. 62

The <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong> <strong>TNR</strong> <strong>Handbook</strong><br />

One source for excellent netting material is survivalist stores. They often have heavy<br />

duty, pliable cotton or synthetic netting in stock for very low cost. One place to try is<br />

Major Surplus & Survival, 1-800-441-8855, www.MajorSurplusNSurvival.com. For<br />

example, at the time this handbook went to press, this company was offering an 8 ft. x 10<br />

ft. “Swiss net” for $12.95 (item no. 8-0916-3) and the same item in an 8 ft. x 20 ft. size<br />

for $19.95 (item no. 8-0916-4). Athletic netting, found in some sporting goods stores, is<br />

also suitable.<br />

To attach the netting, cover the frame with one big piece (or two) before the door or<br />

flap have been mounted. Don’t pull the material taut because you want it to be loose and<br />

very malleable when a cat tries to break through it. Cut away the extra at the corners,<br />

leaving enough for a 3” overlap. Then cable tie the netting onto the frame at the corners<br />

and, if you’re using two pieces of netting, where the pieces join. Be sure the two pieces<br />

are joined together well and there’s no opening for the cat to squeeze out between them.<br />

Leave the netting long enough at the bottom to overlap the frame.<br />

Fasten the door and slides to the outside of the frame in the corner. Also attach a 14”<br />

piece of strapping or molding (at least ½” thick, 1” or 2” wide) to the inside of the frame<br />

behind the inner vertical door slide. This extra piece will allow the netting to be lashed<br />

on around the doorway.<br />

Then, using rope, lash the netting to the frame at the bottom rim and around the<br />

doorway. It’s best if the netting is only attached at the bottom of the frame and around<br />

the door and otherwise left loose. (Note: unlike the trap in the photos, which is also<br />

lashed on the top of the frame.) This allows for the covering to give when a cat pushes<br />

against it and is easier on the trap.<br />

Note: the netting should not be stapled onto the frame. The staples can rust or break<br />

the netting upon impact by a cat.<br />

Prop stick<br />

An 18” prop stick can be made out of a 1” x 1” piece of wood or with the unused half<br />

of tongue-and-groove fir flooring used for making the door slides. With either material,<br />

notch the top so the frame of the trap rests securely on the prop stick and round the<br />

bottom so the stick won’t jam when pulled. Towards the base of the prop stick, drill a<br />

hole large enough for the string to fit through, to make it easier to tie the string on.<br />

Paddle & string<br />

A paddle for holding the string can be cut out from ¼” sanded plywood, though any<br />

piece of wood you can wrap the string around will do. If you cut out a paddle, make it<br />

the shape of a ping-pong paddle that’s been on a diet – thin on top and with a handle<br />

below. The string should be the heaviest you can get (best is mason’s line) or a thin,<br />

strong rope. Fluorescent strings tend to stretch too much when wet.<br />

Transport<br />

The drop trap is fairly large and bulky. If you don’t have a station wagon, SUV or<br />

mini-van, you can put the drop trap on a roof rack. Or, if your trunk is large enough, put<br />

it in as far as you can, then use bungee cords to tie the trunk securely over it. Remember<br />

that you'll also need room in your vehicle for box traps.<br />

61

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!