TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats
TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats
• Cardboard boxes The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook A simple cardboard box will do temporarily in a pinch as cardboard does provide some insulation. Tape the top and bottom of the box closed and seal all seams with duct tape. Then cut a 6” x 6” doorway a few inches off the ground in a long side of the box towards the corner. Wrap a plastic trash bag around the box, generously taping it in place by wrapping duct tape around the bag and box. Cut away the plastic bag around the doorway and tape the loose edges of the bag to the box. If possible, place the box underneath something that will shelter it, such as a tree or wide board. • Insulating materials for the interior Putting insulating materials inside the shelter will increase comfort and warmth for the cats. But they should only be used if the shelters can be periodically checked to see if the materials have gotten damp or too dirty and need to be replaced. If regular checkups are not possible, leave the interiors bare. Only insulating materials which the cats can burrow into should be used. Items which the cats will only lie on top of should not be used, like blankets, towels or flat newspaper. These items, when they are underneath the cat, will draw body heat out and actually make the cat colder. Straw is the best insulating material to use. Straw is better than hay because it can absorb more moisture, is less prone to mold or rot, and does not carry risk of an allergic reaction by the cats. Shredded newspaper will also work. One innovative idea is offered by Ellen Perry Berkeley in her book, “Maverick Cats.” Loosely fill a cotton pillowcase with Styrofoam peanuts, the kind used to pack fragile items during shipping. Then put the stuffed pillowcase inside the shelter. The pillowcase will conform to the cat’s body and wrap her in the heat-capturing peanuts. • Extreme cold In environments where the winter is especially harsh, such as Canada or the northern Midwest, extra measures may be needed. One technique is to line the interior walls of the shelter with pieces cut from a Mylar reflective blanket. Mylar creates warmth by reflecting body heat back and is marketed as a thermal safety blanket for people stranded in their cars during winter. It can also be laid down on the floor of a shelter because it reflects heat rather than absorbing it like a normal blanket. Here's one (untried) source called The Country Store for ordering large Mylar blankets at only $1.50 to $1.95 each: www.healthyharvest.com/product_info.php?products_id=690 Another product for adding extra warmth is the "Flexi-Mat Mysterious Purr Pad" available from PETCO. The pads are made of polyester fibers and absorb then retain body heat, so they’ll also work if placed on the floor of the shelter. You can buy them at 31
The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook a PETCO store or order online at the PETCO website: www.petco.com. A set of two pads sells for approximately $10. • Placement Similar to placing feeding stations, the more discrete, the better. You have more choices with winter shelters because you don’t need constant access. At the same time, if it can be arranged, it’s nice for the cats if the feeding station is near their shelter so they won’t have to travel far in bad weather to eat. The main thing though is security and putting the shelters where few if any strangers will have access or even see them. The more secluded their location, the more the cats are apt to use them. Shelters can be camouflaged not only by painting them to match their surroundings, but also by covering them with boards, branches or other debris. If there’s a choice, put them behind something like a pile of bricks or a bush rather than in front. If they can’t be hidden from view, place them behind a locked and gated fence or other enclosure closed to the public. If the shelters are in a location where they might get damaged or stolen, don’t invest in expensive ones which will be costly to replace. Note that the location of shelters and feeding stations can have a lot to do with where the cats spend much of their time. Their placement can “herd” the cats to a more acceptable and less visible area, improving community relations. 32
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- Page 3 and 4: Contents The Neighborhood Cats TNR
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- Page 7 and 8: Foreword The Neighborhood Cats TNR
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- Page 35 and 36: 6. Winter Shelter The Neighborhood
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- Page 45 and 46: 8. Trapping The Neighborhood Cats T
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The <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong> <strong>TNR</strong> <strong>Handbook</strong><br />
a PETCO store or order online at the PETCO website: www.petco.com. A set of two<br />
pads sells for approximately $10.<br />
• Placement<br />
Similar to placing feeding stations, the more discrete, the better. You have more<br />
choices with winter shelters because you don’t need constant access. At the same time, if<br />
it can be arranged, it’s nice for the cats if the feeding station is near their shelter so they<br />
won’t have to travel far in bad weather to eat. The main thing though is security and<br />
putting the shelters where few if any strangers will have access or even see them. The<br />
more secluded their location, the more the cats are apt to use them.<br />
Shelters can be camouflaged not only by painting them to match their surroundings,<br />
but also by covering them with boards, branches or other debris. If there’s a choice, put<br />
them behind something like a pile of bricks or a bush rather than in front. If they can’t be<br />
hidden from view, place them behind a locked and gated fence or other enclosure closed<br />
to the public. If the shelters are in a location where they might get damaged or stolen,<br />
don’t invest in expensive ones which will be costly to replace.<br />
Note that the location of shelters and feeding stations can have a lot to do with where<br />
the cats spend much of their time. Their placement can “herd” the cats to a more<br />
acceptable and less visible area, improving community relations.<br />
32