TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats
TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook - Neighborhood Cats
The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook Friendly adult ferals This is a tricky category because all may not be as it first appears. Simply put, just because a feral cat acts affectionately towards his caretaker while in his own territory, this does not necessarily mean he will react well and remain friendly once he is removed and placed indoors. Most likely, he will at the least need to go through a transition period before his friendly outdoor ways resume (see “Socializing feral adults” later in this chapter). That said, there are feral cats who take to humans, especially if some time has passed since they were neutered. One good sign that domesticity and adoption is plausible is if the cat starts acting friendly towards strangers, or shows no fear of them and does not run away or stand out of arm’s reach when they approach. If that’s the case, it can be dangerous for the cat to remain outdoors as he will not necessarily protect himself from strangers as much as a feral cat should. • Veterinary care for adoptable cats The standard veterinary care for a cat who may be placed in a domestic home differs from that of a feral who is going to be released. The cat should be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible before being introduced to a home. He should be tested for FIV/FeLV in order to ensure other domestic cats are not exposed to the virus. Treatment, as needed, should be provided for fleas, worms, ear mites, upper respiratory infections, ringworm or any of the other possible conditions which could result from an outdoor life. Teeth should be examined and an overall checkup given. • Socializing feral kittens Some feral kittens socialize the moment you pick them up and hold them in your hands. Most take a little more work. As always in dealing with feral cats, you must be careful. A six week old kitten can easily put his fangs straight through your finger and if frightened enough, he will. Their parents have taught them that humans are large predators out to eat them, so keep that in mind before you straight away go sticking your hand inside their carrier. You have to let feral kittens get to know you a bit before you try to handle them. When they’re a little more used to you, then you can carefully try touching them, using the techniques described here. A good idea is to leave them alone and just talk to them for a day or two before attempting any physical contact. 93
The Neighborhood Cats TNR Handbook Once you have them in your home or shelter, it’s best to start feral kittens out in a confined space like a bathroom where they will be forced to deal with your presence when you’re also in the space. Otherwise, if you let them out into your home at large, they’ll run and hide and may never interact with you. At first, put a carrier in the confined space which they can go run into when they want. This way, they feel there is a safe place within their territory. If after a couple of days, they’re still running and hiding whenever you show up and won’t come out, replace the carrier with an open box. That way they still feel somewhat protected, but can see you and begin to interact. Before you try to touch or handle them, draw the kittens to you by playing with them. One of the toys with a long wand and a feather on a string is great, as is a widely available and inexpensive toy called a Cat Dancer which consists of little pieces of cardboard on the end of a wire. Once they’re engrossed in play, keep running the feather or Cat Dancer over your feet and legs and get the kittens to run over you and touch your body while they’re playing. This way, they will learn you’re safe. Talk to them constantly. The kittens may become comfortable playing and haphazardly touching you very quickly or it may take several days. Be patient if it does take time – they’re learning to trust you and need to move at their own pace. Once they are at ease, as evidenced by their quickly wanting to play and showing no fear of your presence, then reach down during the play and stroke them once or twice on the back, but no more. Don’t let the touching interrupt the play. Gradually, increase the amount of touching, but avoid letting it get to the point where they act at all disturbed by it. When they’re very comfortable with your petting them, which again can take a few days, you can start to pick them up. Once again, escalate the contact slowly. At first, only lift them up off the ground for a second or two. When they’re ok with that, then hold them a bit longer. Eventually, place them on your lap, but don’t hold them there if they want to jump off. Continue increasing contact until they’re lying in your lap and purring as you stroke them. The length of this process – from play to petting to holding at length – will depend on the temperament and age of the kitten. With a particularly wild kitten who resists these methods, try wrapping him in a towel (to immobilize him), then put him in your lap and pet him on the head and through the towel. Start off doing this briefly and slowly increase the time period. When he’s comfortable and appears to enjoy the touching, then you can try doing it without the towel. Another technique for very wild kittens is to start them off in a cage instead of an open space like a bathroom. Include a litter box and an open cardboard box inside the cage. Use a back scratcher or a long, soft-haired paint brush to reach through the bars and touch him. He may hiss and react poorly at first, but eventually he’ll likely realize it feels enjoyable and start to purr. At this point, you can try using your hand, though be on 94
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The <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong> <strong>TNR</strong> <strong>Handbook</strong><br />
Once you have them in your home or shelter, it’s best to start feral kittens out in a<br />
confined space like a bathroom where they will be forced to deal with your presence<br />
when you’re also in the space. Otherwise, if you let them out into your home at large,<br />
they’ll run and hide and may never interact with you. At first, put a carrier in the<br />
confined space which they can go run into when they want. This way, they feel there is a<br />
safe place within their territory. If after a couple of days, they’re still running and hiding<br />
whenever you show up and won’t come out,<br />
replace the carrier with an open box. That<br />
way they still feel somewhat protected, but<br />
can see you and begin to interact.<br />
Before you try to touch or handle them,<br />
draw the kittens to you by playing with<br />
them. One of the toys with a long wand and<br />
a feather on a string is great, as is a widely<br />
available and inexpensive toy called a Cat<br />
Dancer which consists of little pieces of<br />
cardboard on the end of a wire. Once<br />
they’re engrossed in play, keep running the<br />
feather or Cat Dancer over your feet and legs<br />
and get the kittens to run over you and touch<br />
your body while they’re playing. This way, they will learn you’re safe. Talk to them<br />
constantly.<br />
The kittens may become comfortable playing and haphazardly touching you very<br />
quickly or it may take several days. Be patient if it does take time – they’re learning to<br />
trust you and need to move at their own pace. Once they are at ease, as evidenced by<br />
their quickly wanting to play and showing no fear of your presence, then reach down<br />
during the play and stroke them once or twice on the back, but no more. Don’t let the<br />
touching interrupt the play. Gradually, increase the amount of touching, but avoid letting<br />
it get to the point where they act at all disturbed by it.<br />
When they’re very comfortable with your petting them, which again can take a few<br />
days, you can start to pick them up. Once again, escalate the contact slowly. At first,<br />
only lift them up off the ground for a second or two. When they’re ok with that, then<br />
hold them a bit longer. Eventually, place them on your lap, but don’t hold them there if<br />
they want to jump off. Continue increasing contact until they’re lying in your lap and<br />
purring as you stroke them. The length of this process – from play to petting to holding<br />
at length – will depend on the temperament and age of the kitten.<br />
With a particularly wild kitten who resists these methods, try wrapping him in a towel<br />
(to immobilize him), then put him in your lap and pet him on the head and through the<br />
towel. Start off doing this briefly and slowly increase the time period. When he’s<br />
comfortable and appears to enjoy the touching, then you can try doing it without the<br />
towel.<br />
Another technique for very wild kittens is to start them off in a cage instead of an<br />
open space like a bathroom. Include a litter box and an open cardboard box inside the<br />
cage. Use a back scratcher or a long, soft-haired paint brush to reach through the bars<br />
and touch him. He may hiss and react poorly at first, but eventually he’ll likely realize it<br />
feels enjoyable and start to purr. At this point, you can try using your hand, though be on<br />
94