Download - Audley Travel

S OUTH A MERICA 

PERU 

BOLIVIA 

ECUADOR & THE GALAPAGOS 

COLOMBIA 

VENEZUELA 

GUYANA 

THE CARIBBEAN 

BRAZIL 

PARAGUAY 

URUGUAY 

ARGENTINA 

CHILE 

THE FALKLAND ISLANDS 

ANTARCTICA 

TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR THE D ISCERNING T RAVELLER

Dear Traveller 

There’s something about the exuberance and 

passion of South America that gets into the 

blood and makes me want to go back again 

and again to experience more. 

It is a vast and staggeringly diverse 

continent. From exploring remote Inca 

ruins to relaxing on heavenly beaches, 

trekking across deserts to visiting remote 

Andean communities, learning the tango to 

drinking fine New World wines, South 

America is full of variety. It's a continent 

of amazing wildlife, dramatic scenery and 

mighty rivers with a fascinating human 

story printed on it. 

Planning a trip here requires first-hand 

experience. Our specialists have travelled 

extensively within South America, seen the 

hotels that we recommend and experienced 

the tours. They are also aware of the pitfalls 

of travelling in this developing area of the 

world. Many of the team have also lived, 

worked and studied across the continent 

enabling them to understand the cultural 

differences. Combined with their enthusiasm 

and passion they are able to advise exactly 

how travel ‘works’ here. 

This brochure covers South America from 

top to toe, including classic destinations and 

itineraries, as well as ‘off the beaten track’ 

and specialised trips to match specific 

interests. It is a collection of our team’s 

favourite places and a collation of their years 

of experience working with the region. I hope 

this shines through on the following pages, 

inspiring you to take an unforgettable trip to 

this amazing part of the world. 

Craig Burkinshaw 

Managing Director

Introducing Audley 

Audley was founded by Craig Burkinshaw after he developed a passion for travel in the 

early 1990s. This enthusiasm turned into a determination to make it possible for others 

to share the same experience and, from these small beginnings, the company was born. Audley 

offers a new type of travel experience – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s 

interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality, authenticity and 

a passion for travel. Today Audley is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour 

operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin 

America, Australasia, Antarctica and the Arctic, Canada and Alaska. 

Tailor-made travel 

The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every 

trip is unique. Whether you want to stay in 

simple or luxurious accommodation, have great 

guides on hand or explore under your own 

steam, travel for one week or five, we can create 

a trip to match your tastes and budget. We can 

also create trips for a special occasion, where 

added touches can change an adventurous 

journey into a spectacular honeymoon, 

anniversary or birthday celebration. Your trip can 

also be tailored to particular interests such as 

wildlife, photography, ethnography or architecture 

and we have the specialist knowledge to match. 

Throughout the brochure you will find suggested 

itineraries together with details on some of our 

favourite hotels, lodges and boats. These are 

included purely to offer inspiration and give you 

a flavour of what is possible as each journey is 

created individually to give you the opportunity 

to experience a destination in exactly the way 

you choose. 

Specialist knowledge 

Our South America specialists have all travelled 

throughout the continent, so you can rely on their 

extensive first-hand knowledge. They regularly 

return to see the accommodation, meet our 

guides – many of whom are firm friends – 

experience all the excursions and activities, and 

keep up-to-date with local developments. They 

pride themselves on having an honest ‘tell it how 

it is’ approach to planning your trip and, as well as 

their own extensive knowledge, they are able to 

draw on the considerable collective experience 

of their colleagues. We believe this approach is 

unique to Audley and the only way we can 

genuinely offer you a tailor-made service. 

Financial security 

All travel arrangements in this brochure that 

include a flight are ATOL protected by the Civil 

Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817. 

Please see our booking conditions for more 

information. If your arrangements do not include 

any flights they are protected by a separate 

financial scheme, for further details visit 

www.audleytravel.com/protect 

Planning your trip 

Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if 

you just want some general guidance, please 

call one of our South America specialists on 

01993 838 600. They can offer advice and 

discuss your plans with you, before creating a 

detailed itinerary, which will be forwarded to you 

together with maps, accommodation information, 

colour photographs and a price. Your specialist 

can then continue to refine the plans until you 

are completely satisfied. They will be on hand 

from the start of the planning process to your 

return and are always available to answer 

questions and offer sound advice. 

Contents 

Introduction 2-7 

Peru 8-23 

The Amazon 24-25 

Bolivia 26-31 

Ecuador & The Galapagos 32-43 

Colombia 44-47 

Venezuela 48-51 

Guyana, Suriname & 

French Guiana 52-53 

The Caribbean 54-55 

Central America, 

Mexico & Cuba 56-57 

Brazil 58-75 

Paraguay 76-77 

Uruguay 78-79 

Argentina 80-97 

Patagonia 98-99 

Chile 100 -115 

The Falkland Islands 116-119 

Antarctica 120-122 

Useful Information 123

4 

Boys with lamb, Peru 

Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina 

Machu Picchu, Peru 

Experience 

South America 

The South American continent never fails to inspire the traveller with its iconic cities, 

breathtaking landscapes, ancient ruins, lush tropical forests and passionate, friendly 

people. From the soaring mountains of the Andes to the pampas of Argentina, its indigenous 

Indian population to the descendants of European colonists, South America’s diversity 

includes staggering landscapes and wildlife, a rich and vibrant culture and an endlessly 

fascinating history. Whether you’re an archaeology buff, an outdoor adventurer, wildlife 

enthusiast or culture aficionado the continent presents so many travel options that it will 

make your head spin. 

History 

Empires, explorers, conquistadores, wars of 

independence, revolutions, juntas, larger-than-life 

figures and coups – South America’s history has 

unfolded with characteristic passion and drama 

over the years. However, evidence suggests that 

life in South America actually began rather 

sedately with pockets of Asian settlers establishing 

small communities many thousands of years ago, 

around what today is known as Peru and the 

deltas of the Orinoco and Amazon rivers. 

When Christopher Colombus established his 

first settlement in the ‘New World’ in 1498 

several civilisations had already risen and fallen. 

Many had survived in seemingly inhospitable 

deserts, impenetrable jungle and on remote 

Andean peaks. Colombus’ arrival initiated the 

colonial period and, followed by Spanish 

conquistadores and Portuguese colonisers, 

bloody battles ensued with the Incas and their 

contemporaries until European dominance altered 

every aspect of the continent. Despite this, many 

traditions have thankfully survived and native 

languages are still spoken today, providing a 

unique fusion of old and new at every turn. 

Since their independence (generally during the 

19th century) most countries have experienced 

varying degrees of political turmoil which has left 

the continent with a fascinating modern history. It 

is a credit to the people of South America today 

that, despite all of this, they remain open, warm 

and friendly to visitors and stubbornly passionate 

about their heritage. 

Culture 

The dozen countries that make up South America 

share a common legacy; the cultural footprint of 

their colonial rulers. But whilst this influence of 

their past is readily visible, each country has, to 

different degrees, retained its own diverse 

indigenous traditions. These are primarily defined 

by the native cultures of people who inhabited 

the continent prior to the arrival of Europeans – 

descendants of the Incas, traditional Andean 

communities such as Quechua and Aymara and 

countless Amazonian tribes. Music and dance, in 

many places, is synonymous with African slaves 

whose descendants remained in South America 

after liberation from the Spanish and Portuguese. 

The colonial era itself has left an important 

cultural mark with its architecture, and of course 

its languages. 

Spanish and Portuguese are naturally spoken by 

the majority of South Americans. However, the 

Quechua and Aymara languages and their 

numerous dialects are widespread across the 

Andes. It is estimated that over 200 dialects are 

spoken by tribes inhabiting the Amazon basin, but 

no exact figure has ever been derived. Elsewhere 

you will come across countless pockets of other 

languages including English, Creole, Dutch, French 

and even a small community in Argentina that 

speaks Welsh. 

Catholicism is the predominant religion in South 

America, with around 80% of the population 

practicing today. It is impossible to miss the vast 

array of churches and cathedrals; some crumbling 

into a sorry state of disrepair, others housing 

ornate and detailed gold-gilded altars.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil 

The Andes 

The Andes is the world’s longest continual 

mountain chain, stretching for over 7,000 

kilometres along the length of the South 

American continent. Starting in Venezuela and 

Colombia where they overlook the Caribbean, 

they are at their most volatile throughout Ecuador 

and home to deserts and salt lakes in Bolivia. 

Mighty condors swoop over canyons, farmers 

tend to terraces clinging to the sides of snowcapped 

peaks and stratas of rocks are carpeted 

with an enormous palatte of colour. In Chile and 

Argentina impossibly blue lakes shelter beneath 

towering mountains, whose slopes provide ideal 

conditions for vineyards. Continuing south the 

peaks give way to the vast Patagonia region 

where mysterious glacial fields end dramatically 

and ancient fjords, channels and woodlands 

provide the perfect setting for unforgettable 

adventure cruises. The mountain range finally 

comes to rest, crumbling into the wild open 

oceans around Tierra del Fuego. 

The most famous Andean residents were 

arguably the Incas, borne out of small 

communities around Lake Titicaca. They 

created one of the most powerful empires in 

South America leaving vast archaeological ruins 

and citadels across Ecuador, Colombia, Peru 

and Bolivia. 

Forests and Wetlands 

Over five million square kilometres of South 

America’s land mass is covered by the tropical 

rainforest of the Amazon basin. This utopia of 

biodiversity contains over one third of the entire 

planet’s bird and plant species, 10% of mammals 

and an immeasurable number of insects. As these 

sultry forests meet the Andes they ascend into 

cooler, lush cloudforest regions, home to 

hundreds of species of tropical bird. On flatter 

territory the rainforest gives way to vast plains 

where cattle and cowboys co-exist with wild 

birds, caiman, capybara and large cats. In some 

areas, enormous table-top mountains emerge 

from these wetlands creating mysterious, 

pre-historic looking landscapes. 

Iguazú Falls, Argentina 

01993 838 600 ● Introduction 5

6 

Sea lions, Galapagos Islands 

Moai, Easter Island 

Fernando de Noronha, Brazil 

Experience South America 

Islands and Beaches 

South America is shaped by three major bodies 

of water: the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and the 

Caribbean Sea. The rugged Pacific coastline, 

stretching the entire western side of the 

continent, provides the perfect environment for 

an abundance of wildlife, the pinnacle of which is 

undoubtedly the Galapagos Islands off the coast 

of Ecuador. Volatile volcanoes have created vast 

lava fields which are home to hundreds of sea 

lions, albatross, boobies, giant tortoises and 

iguanas that have evolved over centuries and 

today show little fear of humans. The remainder 

of this coastline is home to windswept beaches 

and jagged, rocky cliff lines. 

Meanwhile, with over 7,000 kilometres of 

coastline, Brazil has an endless succession of 

beaches in secluded coves, and the coastline is 

dotted with off-shore islands in the south and 

backed by enormous sand dunes in the north. 

Along the northern shore of the continent the 

Caribbean laps soothingly over picture postcard 

white-sand beaches along the coasts of Venezuela 

and Colombia. A short distance off the mainland 

of these countries, white sandbanks merge into 

small archipelagos providing idyllic, relaxing 

getaways for the end of a trip. 

Travelling Around 

Journeys around South America are astoundingly 

varied. Although distances can be vast, trips do 

not have to be spent in airport lounges or on 

endless road journeys. Short flights, spectacular 

train journeys, expedition cruises, ferry crossings, 

self-drive, trekking, horseback riding, biking and 

public transport are all means that we use to 

travel between destinations within the continent. 

Encountering friendly and inquisitive locals and 

witnessing the spectacular scenery en route will 

make your trip all the more memorable. 

Food 

Long before Europeans arrived in South America, 

the native populations knew how to cultivate an 

incredible array of plants. They grew corn, lima 

beans, potatoes, sweet potatoes, quinoa, chilli 

peppers, avocados, peanuts, cacao, and raised 

llamas and guinea pigs. When the Europeans 

arrived, they incorporated some of these native 

ingredients into their own cuisine. They took the 

new foods back to Europe, and they brought 

European foods such as pigs, chickens, citrus 

trees, wheat and almonds to South America. 

Today, cuisine in most Andean countries is still 

primarily based around corn, potatoes and bean 

products. In many cities across the continent it 

is common to find chefs showcasing these 

Andean products and alpaca meat, quinoa and 

unusual tubers such as yucca in new and 

sophisticated ways. 

In the southern part of the continent meat and 

fish are more prominent. Brazil has arguably the 

most diverse cuisine thanks a number of factors 

such as its sheer size and ability to grow a variety 

of crops as well as its traditional cooking 

techniques which have been influenced by its 

African and Asian populations. Argentines are 

famed for their diet of beef. Grilled meat from 

the asado (barbecue) is a staple, with steak and 

beef ribs especially common. Chorizo (pork 

sausage), morcilla (blood sausage) and mollejas 

(sweetbread), are also enjoyed. In Patagonia, lamb 

and chivito (goat) are eaten more than beef. 

Drink 

Traditional South American beverages are just 

as distinct as the foods. Popular drinks include 

maté (soaked dried leaves of the local yerba maté 

plant), pisco (a Quechan liquor distilled from 

grapes) and chicha (an alcoholic maize or 

yuca-based drink usually drunk in the Amazon 

basin). A more recent addition to Argentina and 

Chile’s drinks list is wine. The cool, sunny slopes 

of the Andes provide ideal growing conditions 

for many grapes (although malbec is the most 

renowned) and the region is now a major player 

in the global wine market. As for cocktails, the 

most famous is Brazil’s caipirinha. Made with 

cachaça, lime and sugar, it is dangerously delicious.

Festivals 

South Americans like to party. This combined 

with their allegiance to many traditions result in 

numerous colourful festivals throughout the year. 

The most famous is Carnival which takes place 

annually in February. Although celebrated across 

the continent, Brazil is the ultimate flag bearer 

with its lavish, colourful processions, street 

music and samba dancers who party solidly for 

three days. 

In the Andes, the most significant festival is Inti 

Raymi, celebrating the summer solstice. For the 

entire week, locals celebrate with large 

barbecues, parades, traditional dances, and 

bonfires. In Peru, it takes over Cuzco and 

transforms the Sacsayhuamán ruins overlooking 

the city into a majestic stage. 

Rio Carnival, Brazil 

Our glossary 

There are some South American terms that 

you will frequently come across in this 

brochure. Here is our quick guide to some 

of the vocabulary used across the continent. 

Altiplano – meaning 'high plain', this 

geographical description refers to the 

swathes of wild and bleak land that lie at 

over 4,000 metres, in the cordilleras of Peru, 

Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. 

Cordillera – a name given to parts of 

the Andes where the mountains split into 

parallel ranges. 

Pampas – vast and flat alluvial plains that 

spread out from Buenos Aires and is where 

much of Argentina's famous cattle farming 

takes place. 

Gaucho – the Argentine cowboy, gauchos 

are the men who work on horseback on 

the farms. 

Estancia – term used in Argentina, 

Chile, Uruguay, and Paraguay to describe a 

large family-owned rural estate. They have 

historically always been a livestock (cattle or 

sheep) farm but many have now opened 

their doors to visitors (see page 86). 

Hacienda – similar to an estancia but 

associated with Ecuador (see feature on page 

35) and Colombia. They usually have a 

broader range of agricultural ventures such as 

the harvesting of grain, coffee, vegetables and 

livestock farming. Coffee producing estancias 

in Colombia are often called ‘fincas’. 

Fazenda – refers to a large plantation in 

Brazil. At their peak during the colonial 

period, most were located in the northeast 

of the country. They were responsible for a 

huge number of slaves arriving in the country, 

resulting in a diverse culture in this region of 

the country today. 

Posada/Pousada (Spanish/Portuguese 

spelling) – the name traditionally given to a 

small, family-run hotel, often with a 

personalised level of service. Today, the 

name is attached to many hotels across the 

continent, which do not always necessarily 

meet this criteria! 

Barrios – Spanish word meaning 

‘neighbourhood’ or ‘district’. 

Atacama Desert, Chile 

Favela – the general term used for a shanty 

town in Brazil. The name ‘favela’ comes from 

the tree commonly found on the side of hills 

in sub-tropical regions. As favelas are also 

often found on the sides of hills, the slang 

term ‘favela’ was formed. 

Asado – the technique for cooking 

numerous cuts of meat (usually beef), 

which are cooked on a grill (parrilla) or open 

fire. Also the word used to refer to the 

meal itself. 

Churrascaria – Brazilian or Portuguese 

steakhouse, churrasco is the cooking style, 

which translates roughly from the Portuguese 

for ‘barbecue’. 

01993 838 600 ● Introduction 7

Peru 

It’s little wonder Peru features highly on 

the destination wish-list of most visitors 

to South America. Its diverse attractions – 

a wealth of stunningly located ancient 

remains, a hugely varied landscape from 

Andean peaks to Amazon rainforest, and a 

colourful culture – offer a fantastic taste of 

more or less all that the continent has to 

offer. A compelling history that spans 

8 

thousands of years and countless 

civilizations from 2000 BC to the bloody 

conquest by the Spanish in 1535, has left the 

Peru of today with a myriad of fascinating 

ancient sites. These man-made wonders are 

set against a breathtaking backdrop of 

snow-capped mountains, sapphire lakes, 

terraced fields in all shades of green and 

gold, and emerald forested slopes that 

tumble down into the Amazon basin. 

Peru holds possibly the most famous site in 

South America, the magnificent Inca citadel 

of Machu Picchu, but whether your interest 

lies in ancient ruins such as this, or in 

trekking, wildlife or experiencing the 

traditional culture and customs of its 

indigenous people, Peru is a place that 

will delight at each step of your journey.

1 Machu Picchu 

The obvious highlight of Peru, 

the ancient Inca citadel of 

Machu Picchu has an incredible 

location and fascinating history. 

2 Cuzco 

The charming city of Cuzco 

with its cobbled streets and Inca 

walls is a great place to explore 

and people-watch. 

3 The Sacred Valley of 

the Incas 

Stunning scenery with fantastic 

examples of Inca ruins, 

agricultural terracing and an 

opportunity for an abundance 

of outdoor activities such as 

walking, rafting and cycling. 

Local ladies, Cuzco 

9 

4 Pacaya Samiria 

Reserve, Amazon 

Cruise through one of the most 

pristine areas of rainforest in the 

Amazon basin, learning about 

the flora, fauna and local 

indigenous communities. 

5 Southern Peruvian 

Amazon 

Readily accessible from Cuzco, 

the Tambopata Reserve offers 

everything from an introductory 

Amazon experience through to 

trips for avid wildlife enthusiasts. 

Alternatively, for the most 

adventurous birdwatcher, a trip 

into the Manu Biosphere 

Reserve is a must. 

6 Lake Titicaca 

The highest navigable lake in the 

world, it is stunningly blue and 

surrounded by snow-capped 

Andean mountains. 

7 

1 

4 

8 

3 

5 

2 

Tambopata 

Reserve 

6 

7 Nazca Lines 

A set of mysterious ancient 

shapes carved into the desert, 

only properly visible when 

flying over them. 

8 Colca Canyon 

One of the deepest canyons 

in the world, set amongst a 

beautiful landscape and a great 

place to spot Andean condors. 

9 Kuelap 

Shrouded in cloudforest, Kuelap 

is an enormous pre-Inca site still 

off the main tourist radar. 

Train journeys 

Three stunning and completely 

scenically different rail journeys 

can be taken as part of a trip 

to Peru. 

Audley in Peru 

Peru has an array of ‘must-see’ sights that 

tend to be visited in a logical route. We 

pride ourselves on being able to offer our 

clients these classic journeys but also include 

steps off the beaten track to make your trip 

a more authentic and personal experience. 

During our extensive travels throughout 

the length and breadth of the country, 

researching hotels and excursions, we have 

discovered some options that will allow you 

to escape the crowds just for a while, be it 

a quiet lunch in a hacienda, a homestay on 

Lake Titicaca, or a private Inca Trail walk. 

To make the most of the country, and your 

time, trips to Peru tend to be busy affairs 

with plenty of early mornings and long days. 

However, we can ensure that you have time 

to rest, and also time to acclimatise to the 

altitude. Internal flights (which tend to be 

scheduled in the mornings, hence the need 

for early starts) are used where necessary, 

but wherever possible we prefer to make 

use of the spectacular road and rail journeys 

that link the main towns. 

Accommodation 

Peru has a wide choice of accommodation 

that caters to all budgets. Our Peru 

specialists have inspected hotels throughout 

the country, and we have handpicked our 

favourites. Peru’s colonial heritage manifests 

itself in several fine hotels occupying 

beautiful renovated buildings with excellent 

locations. City properties range from 

charming B&Bs through to renowned 

luxury hotels, with rustic lodges offering 

comfortable accommodation in some of 

the more remote parts of the country. 

Whatever your tastes we will endeavour to 

tailor your accommodation to your budget 

and preferences. 

Find out more 

For suggested itineraries and practical 

information about travel in Peru, please 

see pages 22-23. 

☎ 

www.audleytravel.com 

Interactive maps and features, 

further suggested itineraries, 

accommodation, climate information 

and articles written by our specialists. 

Discuss your plans with our Peru 

specialists 01993 838 620 

Peru 9

Plaza de Armas, Lima 

Lima 

Hundreds of years ago Lima was reputed to be 

the most beautiful city in all of Spanish America. 

Even its biggest fans could not say the same 

today, and the city can be something of a 

challenge. It is, however, brimming with heritage 

and can be a worthwhile stop for a night or two. 

The main attractions are those that remain of the 

colonial and Republican era, such as the bustling 

Plaza de Armas with its grand Presidential Palace 

and cathedral where the remains of Francisco 

Pizarro, who conquered the Inca Empire for the 

Spanish, are thought to be interred. The city’s 

museums are worth exploring and will give you a 

fascinating glimpse of the ancient cultures whose 

remnants you will see later on your trip. The Inca 

and pre-Inca ceramics at Larco Herrera and the 

amazing collection of weapons and jewellery at 

the Gold Museum are particularly impressive. 

Miraflores Park Plaza hotel 

10 

Hummingbird, Nazca Lines 

ACCOMMODATION IN LIMA 

Hotels in Lima are located mainly in two districts: 

the cosmopolitan Miraflores with its bars, 

restaurants and pretty parks that extend to the 

cliffs overlooking the Pacific, and the more 

residential district of San Isidro. These areas 

contain a variety of charming, locally owned 

places to stay such as the Antigua or Faraona 

hotels as well as a range of four and five star 

properties. For extended stays in the capital there 

are some more characterful options such as the 

Country Club in San Isidro, built in the 1930s in a 

colonial style and decorated with a stylish mixture 

of classical and Peruvian artwork. Alternatively, 

the Miraflores Park Plaza offers sweeping views 

along the Pacific coastline and is one of the best 

accommodation options in the country. 

Nazca & the South Coast 

South of Lima, a huge monkey appears etched 

in one continuous line into the barren landscape. 

Other complex images include a hummingbird, 

condor, spider and various geometric shapes. 

These are the Nazca Lines, one of the world’s 

most bewildering archaeological sites. Believed to 

date back to 400 BC, their origin and purpose still 

remain a mystery. The lines can be seen as part of 

a day trip from Lima, flying from the capital to the 

desert town of Ica where you will board a small 

aircraft for the overflight. 

With more time you can explore the region 

further. Travelling south out of Lima by bus or 

car, the Pan American Highway snakes through 

a landscape of barren desert interspersed with 

fertile valleys growing grapes for pisco. In addition 

to taking a flight over the lines you can visit the 

ancient mummies at a local museum in Ica, go 

quad biking in sand dunes near Huacachina 

lagoon or head down to the nearby Paracas 

Nature Reserve. Here morning boat trips head 

along the coast and past ‘La Candelabra’ etched 

into the desert sand before arriving at the 

Ballestas Islands, home to hordes of sea lions 

and a wonderful variety of birdlife.

Balconies, Lima 

ACCOMMODATION AROUND 

NAZCA AND THE SOUTH COAST 

Accommodation around Ica and Nazca, such as 

the Las Dunas Hotel and Hacienda Cantayo, is 

fairly simple but is ideally located as a base for 

both the Nazca Lines and Paracas Nature 

Reserve. Newer, more luxurious hotels such as 

the Libertador Luxury Collection, located closer 

to Paracas are becoming more popular for our 

clients. Paracas hotels operate boat trips to the 

nearby Ballestas Islands and have their own 

aircraft for flights over the Nazca Lines. 

Pisco vineyard, near Ica 

Train Journeys 

Farming near Nazca 

La Candelabra, Paracas Nature Reserve 

Peru’s spectacular rail journeys are in 

themselves a major attraction of the 

country and you will invariably embark on 

at least one train voyage during your trip as 

Machu Picchu is only reached by train 

(unless you trek for four days). A variety of 

services, from carriages with comfortable 

seating and panoramic windows through to 

the luxury Hiram Bingham train with fine 

dining and entertainment, transport visitors 

between Cuzco and the Sacred Valley of 

the Incas, along the banks of the Urubamba 

River, to the village of Aguas Calientes 

below the ruins. 

One of the country’s most impressive train 

journeys is across the altiplano (high plain) 

between Cuzco and Puno. Dramatic Andean 

scenery, lush valleys and vast barren 

landscapes keep passengers occupied for 

the ten hour journey. This civilised affair 

also includes a three-course lunch and 

afternoon tea. 

For the true train enthusiast, the Central 

Andean Railway operates trains between 

Lima and the Andean town of Huancayo. 

This 12-hour journey ascends to over 

15,000 feet (the second highest passenger 

La Raya pass, Puno to Cuzco train 

Train to Machu Picchu 

railway in the world), with numerous 

switchbacks, and passes through and over 

a total of 60 tunnels and steel bridges. 

Whatever your level of interest in trains is, 

Peru offers visitors some wonderful 

alternatives that showcase its dramatic, 

natural scenery. 

www.audleytravel.com/peru ● 01993 838 620 ● Peru 11

Colca Canyon 

Arequipa 

The bustling ‘White City’ of Arequipa rests in the 

shadow of El Misti, an ice-capped volcano, whose 

peaks hold the tombs of young Inca girls sacrificed 

to the Gods, and whose pale rocks were used by 

the Spanish in the construction of the city below. 

Arequipa is a useful place to begin the altitude 

acclimatisation process, but is also interesting to 

explore in its own right. The highlight is the Santa 

Catalina convent, a miniature city within a city. 

This peaceful haven, with russet, blue and 

white-walled streets lined with bright geraniums 

is still home to an order of nuns, 400 years after 

it was built. 

Arequipa’s most famous resident is Juanita, an Inca 

girl whose body was discovered in the ice caps of 

El Misti in 1995. Dated at around 550 years old, 

this ‘ice maiden’ was remarkably well preserved 

by the ice and she is seen today in the Museo 

Santuarios de Altura, wrapped in the fine Inca 

textiles that she was wearing the day she died. 

Evenings in Arequipa are generally spent around 

the bustling main square mingling with families 

enjoying the cool, but dry, climate before dining 

in one of the many fine restaurants which, for the 

brave, are one of the best places to try one of 

Peru’s most renowned delicacies, guinea pig. 

12 

Andean condor 

Colca Canyon 

The road from Arequipa towards Colca leads 

first through a rugged landscape, dominated by 

volcanoes, and seemingly home only to wild llama 

and vicuña. Finally you emerge into a fertile region 

dotted with traditional villages where farming still 

takes place on pre-Inca agricultural terraces. This 

is the Colca Valley, and at its head is the Colca 

Canyon, one of the deepest in the world. The 

steep green canyon walls are home to majestic 

Andean condors and an early morning excursion 

to the ‘Condor’s Cross’ viewing platform will 

hopefully allow you to see families of these 

enormous birds nesting, scavenging and soaring 

on the thermals above and below you. 

At dusk head to some of the thermal pools and 

hot springs around the main village in the valley, 

Chivay. Some of the hotels have private facilities 

but there are a number of public baths in which 

to relax after a busy day exploring the region. 

ACCOMMODATION IN THE 

COLCA CANYON 

A stay in the Colca Valley is a must to explore 

the area fully and see the condors rising on the 

morning thermals. There are a number of 

charming, simple lodges located in the small town 

of Chivay, such as the Pozo del Cielo, which are 

perfectly placed for exploring the region. A little 

more remote is the long-term Audley favourite, 

the Colca Lodge. This rustic lodge is located at 

the bottom of the valley next to the Colca River. 

The private thermal springs and spa are a 

particularly popular place to relax at the end of 

the day. For the ultimate in privacy and comfort, 

Casitas del Colca offers luxury rooms with 

underfloor heating and private balconies with 

heated plunge pools. 

Colca Lodge, Colca Canyon

Santa Catalina convent, Arequipa Plaza de Armas, Arequipa 

Local man, Lake Titicaca 

Lake Titicaca 

The bright blue waters of Lake Titicaca ripple 

across the altiplano of Peru and Bolivia. Its shores 

and islands, lapped by the chilly waters, are a 

place of legends, ancient customs and colourful 

dress, with the locals holding firmly to their 

pre-Conquest traditions. The main town of Puno 

is the base for exploring the sights of the area 

from the Peruvian side of the lake. Many visitors 

choose to take to the deep, icy waters by 

motorboat and enjoy the stunning view as Puno 

disappears behind you and the immense snowcapped 

Cordillera Real range of mountains in 

Bolivia appear on the horizon. 

A journey on the lake will take you to the floating 

Uros Islands which feel springy underfoot as they 

are made from the tortora reed that grows in the 

area. Further out, on Taquile and Amantani 

Islands, you can walk past terraces of lima beans, 

maize and potatoes tended by shy locals, and 

learn first-hand about the origins of their unusual 

traditional dress and farming methods. 

Away from the lake, staying in Puno allows you 

to visit Sillustani to see some of the stone burial 

towers (‘chullpas’) that have dotted the shores 

since pre-Inca times. 

El Misti volcano near Arequipa 

Titilaka, Lake Titicaca 


LAKE TITICACA 

Puno has a number of hotel options that can best 

be described as functional. A handful of simple 

properties, such as the Royal Inn, in the town 

centre are ideally located for day trips on to the 

lake and experiencing the vibrant evening nightlife 

of the town. Driving out of Puno, a string of 

hotels including the Casa Andina Private 

Collection and Libertador line the shores of the 

lake with many rooms having uninterrupted 

views of the lake at sunset and sunrise. 

Alternatively, it is possible to escape the town 

completely, either by staying on Suasi Island or 

heading down to the small luxury lodge of 

Titilaka. Located on a secluded peninsula, this 

exclusive hotels offers 18 ultra-modern, 

contemporary suites overlooking the lake. 

Facilities include a spa and a concierge team to 

help organise your excursions in the region. If you 

are heading into Bolivia you may wish to consider 

a stay on Sun Island instead (see Page 28). 

Taquile Island, Lake Titicaca 

Suasi Island 

Suasi is an idyllic and incredibly peaceful island 

on the northern Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca. 

It has the most spectacular views of the lake and 

Bolivian Andean range and is a real retreat from 

the day-trippers that visit the lake. A stay here is 

a relaxing affair with the opportunity to undertake 

some short walks, canoe on the lake or simply 

enjoy the beauty of the area. There is one simple 

lodge on the island, constructed of natural 

materials with solar panels providing the hotel 

with hot water and electricity. 

Local girl, Lake Titicaca 


Puno to Cuzco train 

Across the Altiplano 

Puno is the place to board the train to Cuzco. 

This spectacular rail journey, on a comfortable 

train with a restaurant, bar and viewing carriage, 

takes around ten hours. The locomotive clambers 

over the bleak altiplano, a land of snow-capped 

peaks and herds of llama, before descending into 

a lusher, greener valley. Here the track clings to 

the side of the Vilcanota River as you pass adobe 

villages and waving schoolchildren before arriving, 

with klaxon blaring, in Cuzco. This journey also 

operates in the reverse for those heading to Lake 

Titicaca after Cuzco, and perhaps continuing to 

Bolivia. There is also the option of taking this 

wonderful journey by road instead. Travelling by 

bus or car allows you to make a couple of stops, 

at the ruins of Raqchi and the village of 

Andahuaylillas, renowned for its lavishly 

decorated church. 

Cuzco 

As the capital of the vast Inca empire and their 

‘navel of the world’, Cuzco was a remarkable city, 

reputedly built in the shape of a puma, full of 

magnificent stone palaces and temples decorated 

with gold. The Spanish were impressed, and so 

instead of completely destroying it, they built 

their colonial city atop the solid foundations. 

Koricancha is a perfect example of this, with the 

skilled stonework of the Inca’s Temple of the 

Sun used to underpin a baroque church. 

Today Cuzco is a proud and lively city with a 

vibrant art scene, excellent museums and fine 

restaurants. The elegant Plaza de Armas is at its 

heart, and is the perfect place to stop, sit and 

take in the sights around you. San Blas is the 

bohemian arts district, where houses cling to the 

steep cobbled streets and inside the craftsmen 

are hard at work. It’s also worth spending a few 

hours exploring some of Cuzco’s most fascinating 

museums including the Inca and pre-Colombian 

Art Museums. 

The hills surrounding Cuzco are dotted with Inca 

sites like Sacsayhuaman, an Inca ceremonial centre 

and possibly the head of the Inca city planner’s 

puma. Its massive interlocking stones are an 

impressive sight, as are the views over the 

terracotta roofs of the city below. It is also the 

stunning backdrop to the colourful Inti Raymi 

annual Sun Festival, held on 24th June. 

Plaza de Armas, Cuzco Hotel Monasterio, Cuzco 

14 

CASA SAN BLAS, CUZCO 

Occupying an 18th century adobe house that was 

originally home to a succession of merchant and 

artisan families, the Casa San Blas is located in the 

heart of the bohemian quarter of Cuzco. In this 

picturesque part of the city, just three blocks from 

the main plaza, but quieter and calmer, it offers 

excellent value with good sized rooms, some 

with spectacular views of Cuzco. 

HOTEL MONASTERIO, CUZCO 

Built as a monastery in 1592 and converted in 

1995 into a luxury hotel which is one of the 

finest in South America, the Monasterio is a haven 

of peace in the centre of Cuzco. The elegant 

rooms and suites (some of which can be ‘oxygen 

enriched’ if you are suffering from the altitude) 

are decorated with fine works of religious art and 

are set around flowery courtyards. The hotel 

even has its own chapel, an ornate masterpiece.

Moray, Sacred Valley of the Incas 

Local girl, Sacred Valley of the Incas 

HOTEL MAMASARA, CUZCO 

A new hotel in Cuzco situated within walking 

distance to the main Plaza de Armas. All 26 

rooms are spacious with a homely feel. Located in 

a modern building, the interior maintains Cuzco’s 

colonial style with warm shades of purple and 

red, and dark-wood furnishings giving this hotel 

an elegant feel. 

LA CASONA, CUZCO 

This striking 16th century manor house was built 

over an Inca palace and has been meticulously 

restored as an exclusive 11-suite hotel combining 

colonial charm and furnishings with contemporary 

comforts and personalised service. The suites 

surround a beautiful central courtyard and either 

overlook the courtyard or have views over the 

city. Each suite is furnished with antiques and 

retains original architectural details, whilst offering 

modern comforts. 

The Sacred Valley of the Incas 

Leaving Cuzco you travel by road to some of the 

fascinating surrounding towns and villages in the 

Sacred Valley of the Incas. This winding and fertile 

valley between Pisac and Ollantaytambo was at 

the spiritual and commercial heart of the Inca 

empire. It is a beautiful, colourful and enchanting 

area, guarded throughout by ancient Inca citadels 

set high on the sides of the mountains. At Pisac, 

evocative ruins display the precise stonework that 

Chinchero market, Sacred Valley of the Incas 

Plaza de Armas, Cuzco 

is the trademark of the Incas, and you will see 

astronomical observation posts and ceremonial 

baths fed by aqueducts. The equally striking 

remnants of the sturdy fortress at Ollantaytambo 

rear up at the end of the paved road between 

Cuzco and the Sacred Valley, dominating the 

town that was once an important administrative 

centre for the Incas. 

Another trademark of the Sacred Valley is the 

colourful markets where you can barter with 

traditionally dressed women for an array of 

goods. The finest is the Sunday market in 

Chinchero where threads are dyed and woven 

in one of the local houses. Alternatively, visit the 

nearby remains of the royal manor of the ruler 

Tupac Inca Yupanqui. If Sunday does not fit into 

your plans then the regular daily market at Pisac 

is an excellent option. 

Close to Chinchero are the unusual circular Inca 

terraces of Moray, which are still used for farming 

today. Nearby is Maras, where you can see the 

busy salt workers extracting the mineral in a way 

unchanged for generations since, legend has it, the 

sun god hailed salt on the locals as a punishment 

for rebelling against the Incas. 

This beautiful part of Peru is also one of the 

best areas for visitors seeking a wide range of 

adventure activities including trekking (see page 

16), horse riding, whitewater rafting and 

mountain biking. 

Sacred Valley of the Incas 


SACRED VALLEY 

There are some fine hotels dotted throughout 

the Sacred Valley, and we recommend you have 

at least one night staying here prior to travelling 

to Machu Picchu or embarking on one of the 

numerous treks on offer. Our favourites include 

the simple La Casona in Yucay, the practical 

Pakaritampu in Ollantaytambo and the charming 

Sol y Luna near Urubamba. There is also a new 

breed of more luxurious options in the valley 

including Rio Sagrado and the Tambo del Inca. 

Hotel Pakaritampu, Sacred Valley of the Incas 


16 

Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Walking and trekking 

For years the Sacred Valley has been the draw 

for trekkers wanting to walk the famous Inca 

Trail to Machu Picchu. However the options 

extend far beyond this well trodden route and 

there is now something on offer for walkers of 

all levels seeking varying degrees of comfort. 

When embarking on any Andean trek you will 

need to be relatively fit and be properly 

acclimatised prior to setting off. Unless 

otherwise stated, most treks will involve 

camping with limited facilities. However, we find 

that the relative rigours of camp life are more 

than rewarded by the freedom, astounding 

sense of space and breathtaking scenery of the 

Andes. Most treks are done in small groups, 

although private treks can also be arranged. 

The Inca Trail 

No longer just the preserve of Inca messengers 

and backpackers, this trail is a tough, but 

ultimately rewarding trek, along the ancient 

path that served as an avenue for news from 

the rest of the Inca empire to Machu Picchu. 

Along the route you will see many otherwise 

inaccessible Inca ruins such as Runkuracay, 

Phuyupatamarca and Wiñay Wayna, which help 

put the whole essence of Machu Picchu into 

more of a context. In addition, you will arrive 

at the best view of Machu Picchu, from high 

above at the Intipunku Sun Gate. We can offer 

this trek on either a group or a private basis 

and at different paces with a classic four day 

trek and a gentler five day option. 

KM104 

KM104 is the perfect option for those who do 

not feel up to a full Inca Trail trek but wish to 

do a full day walk. This trek starts by alighting 

the Machu Picchu train before it arrives at 

Aguas Calientes and crossing the Urubamba 

River to start the gradual climb to Wiñay 

Wayna, the final significant Inca site before 

Machu Picchu. Lunch is taken en route and this 

option still provides that incredible first view 

from the Sun Gate. 

Salkantay 

Known as the ‘alternative Inca Trail’ Salkantay 

offers walkers a far less hiked route to Machu 

Picchu over the course of four days. It has a 

stunning array of landscapes, including the 

snow-capped peaks of Humantay and 

Salkantay, Andean farming communities and 

the small Inca site of Q’ente before descending 

to a hydro-electric station on the Urubamba 

River and walking to Aguas Calientes. 

Mountain Lodges of Peru 

An innovative trek that follows a similar route 

to the Salkantay Trek but instead of camping 

in tents, guests stay in comfortable lodges 

with en-suite facilities, hot water and good 

dining. This trek is walked at a gentler pace 

than others, lasting seven days in total including 

acclimitisation walks from the first lodge. 

Dead Woman’s Pass on the Inca Trail 

Choquequirao 

This challenging five day trek takes walkers 

off the beaten track to the vast Inca site of 

Choquequirao. Often referred to as the ‘cradle 

of gold’, archaeologists believe it may be up to 

five times the size of Machu Picchu. The route 

takes a dramatic descent to the Apurimac 

River canyon before climbing to a vast plateau 

on which the ruins sit. The route is a ‘there 

and back again’ trek, but for the really 

adventurous it is possible to continue on to 

Machu Picchu, a tough twelve day trek. 

Huchuy Qosqo 

A beautiful and relatively unknown site right 

in the heart of the Sacred Valley, Huchuy 

Qosqo can be reached on a one day walk or 

longer two day option departing from just 

outside Cuzco. The route takes walkers 

through dramatic Andean scenery with 

stunning views down to Pisac and Urubamba 

in the lush Sacred Valley below. 

Lares 

An excellent alternative to the Inca Trail, 

the Lares trek takes walkers from the Sacred 

Valley along original Inca routes, through 

spectacular scenery, rural communities and 

free roaming herds of llama and alpaca. Ending 

in the small town of Lares, renowned for its 

thermal springs, walkers head back to the 

Sacred Valley by vehicle for their onward trip 

to Machu Picchu by train.

Machu Picchu 

Wayra Lodge, Mountain Lodges of Peru trek View from Huayna Picchu Wiñay Wayna ruins 

Machu Picchu 

Hidden from the world until the American 

explorer Hiram Bingham reported the ruins in 

1911, this magnificent citadel is one of South 

America’s most famous sights. Machu Picchu rests 

on a saddle between two lushly forested peaks, 

and its inaccessible location makes it all the more 

impressive. Well preserved and largely intact, as 

you walk between these imposing palaces, 

temples, houses and storerooms it is easy to 

imagine the city at the height of the Inca empire. 

You reach the site by trekking or by means of an 

astounding train journey from Cuzco or the 

Sacred Valley which delivers you into the small 

town of Aguas Calientes in the valley below, and 

then take a bus journey up the windy road cut 

into the side of the mountain. Once at the site, 

your guide will ensure that you thoroughly 

explore and will share some of the many theories 

Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge 

Inkaterra, Aguas Calientes 

on the positioning and function of of the citadel. 

An overnight stay at Machu Picchu or Aguas 

Calientes is highly recommended, allowing you 

time to return to the site early in the morning 

before the vast majority of visitors arrive, and 

the opportunity to climb Huayna Picchu for a 

breathless, but wonderful alternative view of 

the site below. 

MACHU PICCHU SANCTUARY 

LODGE, MACHU PICCHU 

Located in an enviable position close to the 

entrance to the citadel of Machu Picchu, the 

Sanctuary Lodge is an Orient Express property 

that offers high quality accommodation and 

service. Staying here comes with a high price tag, 

but it avoids additional travelling time at the start 

and end of the day to get to the ruins. 

ACCOMMODATION IN 

AGUAS CALIENTES 

The small village of Aguas Calientes is the most 

popular place to stay when spending time at 

Machu Picchu. The regular bus service between 

the village and ruins gives you access to Machu 

Picchu for the entire day, so time at the site is 

not compromised by staying here. 

The most renowned hotel in the village is the 

Inkaterra. A mix of calm, comfort and natural 

beauty on the edge of the village, accommodation 

is in whitewashed cottages set in 12 acres of 

cloudforest grounds with orchid gardens and 

several ecological trails. For visitors seeking a 

more functional high quality hotel then the 

Sumaq is an excellent alternative. Situated closer 

to the ruins than the Inkaterra and with its own 

private bus stop, it is extremely service-focussed 

providing a high level of comfort for guests 

who still prefer to spend most of their time at 

the ruins. 

Aguas Calientes also offers a wide range of simple 

guesthouses although the standard and service 

can be changeable. The new Inkaterra-owned 

El Mapi hotel is fast becoming an Audley favourite 

in this category, offering affordable rooms with a 

consistent level of service. 


Sandoval Lake, Tambopata Reserve 

The Peruvian Amazon 

There are two easily accessible tracts of Amazon 

rainforest in Peru. In the south of the country, the 

Tambopata and Manu Biosphere Reserves are 

just a 30 minute flight from Cuzco. Stays in the 

southern Peruvian Amazon tend to be based in 

comfortable lodges where expert naturalist guides 

will lead you through well-marked trails or take 

you out on paddle canoes, pointing out wildlife 

and explaining the medicinal properties of the 

endemic plant species. 

The northern Peruvian Amazon is reached by 

flights from Lima via the city of Iquitos, which is the 

boarding place for some excellent cruise options. 

18 

Tambopata Reserve 

The sleepy frontier town of Puerto Maldonado 

is the most popular starting point for Amazon 

trips in Peru. Characteristics of the jungle here 

include meandering rivers and ox-bow lakes, 

which are thriving with animal life. On the banks 

of the rivers just outside the town it is not 

uncommon to spot foraging capybara, whilst 

companies of parrots can be found feeding on 

clay licks hidden in creeks. A couple of the 

world’s most bizarre-looking creatures are also 

resident here – the tapir, with its spiky mane, and 

the pre-historic hoatzin bird, which hops around 

the edges of the numerous lakes. 

SANDOVAL LAKE LODGE 

Beautifully located on an ox-bow lake of the same 

name where a family of giant otters have set up 

home, Sandoval Lake Lodge has 25 rustic rooms 

and offers a great insight into the Amazonian 

environment. Excursions are undertaken in small 

groups to spot wildlife along trails, across the lake 

and up a canopy tower. The lodge is owned by a 

non-profit making conservation group and five 

indigenous families of Brazil nut collectors. 

HEATH RIVER LODGE 

Heath River is located four hours away by boat 

from Puerto Maldonado on the river dividing Peru 

and Bolivia. It is situated in the middle of a large 

area of pristine rainforest and has just ten private 

cabins. Within easy reach are a macaw clay lick, 

ox-bow lakes with giant otters and the largest 

untouched savannah plain in the Amazon basin. 

Six monkey species and 480 species of bird have 

been recorded in the vicinity of the lodge. 

TAMBOPATA RESEARCH CENTRE 

The Tambopata Research Centre (TRC) has 

just 13 basic lodgings, for both visitors and 

researchers, and is located opposite the world’s 

largest macaw clay lick. The centre is composed 

of four connected thatch roof buildings, built in 

a low-impact native style and the bedrooms are 

designed to have an unobstructed view of the 

forest, thus maximising wildlife spotting 

opportunities. TRC is very remote but is one of 

the most spectacular places to spot wildlife in the 

southern Peruvian Amazon. It is so remote that 

guests need to stop for the night at the Refugio 

Amazonas Lodge en route there and back. 

Yellow-crowned green parrot Tambopata Research Centre

Blue and gold macaw, Tambopata Reserve Squirrel monkey 

Reserva Amazonica 

RESERVA AMAZONICA 

The most comfortable of all Tambopata’s lodges 

is situated on the banks of the Madre de Dios 

River. A private ecological reserve and research 

centre that occupies 10,000 hectares, 

accommodation is provided in 38 private cabins 

and six suites which are built from local materials. 

There is also a canopy treehouse in which 

guests can spend a night. All cabins have private 

bathrooms, mosquito netting and a terrace 

with hammocks. 

Manu Biosphere Reserve 

The Manu Biosphere Reserve is renowned as one 

of the most bio-diverse regions in the world, and 

it is certainly the most wildlife-rich area of the 

Amazon that is accessible to visitors. It is a vast 

and pristine wilderness encompassing 1.8 million 

hectares of grasslands, cloudforest and tropical 

lowlands, with an incredible diversity of flora and 

fauna. Visitors have a high chance of spotting giant 

Cock of the rock 

Giant river otter 

river otter, jaguar and ocelot, and over 1,000 

species of bird have been recorded. The park is 

accessed from Cuzco, and can be reached either 

by a quick, exhilarating ride in a light aircraft to 

the airstrip at Boca Manu, deep within the 

reserve, or by a two day road and river journey. 

Trips to Manu are operated on a group basis, 

with departures from Cuzco on certain days of 

the week. We only use reputable operators, as 

logistics can be susceptible to weather conditions, 

and prices are higher than for trips to other 

Peruvian Amazon areas. We recommend a 

minimum of six days to make the most of this 

incredible area, and travel to the reserve is best 

between April and October when rainfall is lower. 

ACCOMMODATION IN MANU 

If you travel into Manu by road you will stay 

en route at the Cock of the Rock Lodge in the 

cloudforest, which gives the rare chance to see 

the colourful eponymous birds, and Amazonia 

Lodge, another prime birdwatching location. 

Accommodation deep in the tropical area of 

Manu will be in one of a number of remote 

lodges, or a campsite. The Manu Wildlife Centre 

is a basic lodge with an excellent position close to 

a large mammal lick and a macaw lick where an 

astounding 550 bird species have been recorded, 

while Manu Lodge is located by an ox-bow lake 

that is home to giant river otter and black and 

white caiman. There are also tented camps for 

those who wish to take a longer river trip. 


Sunrise over the Amazon 

Iquitos and the 

Northern Amazon 

Not only the starting point for wildlife trips into 

the northern part of the Peruvian jungle, Iquitos 

itself is worth a look as it is the epitome of a 

steamy Amazon city. Hemmed in by lakes, rivers 

and green forest on all sides, the only way in or 

out is by boat or plane. This part of the rainforest 

is home to ancient Amazonian tribes as well as 

an immense variety of wildlife, including the 

mysterious river dolphins which glide in and out 

of the small backwater creeks. 

Amazon river dolphin 

20 

Delfin II 

Cruises in the 

Northern Amazon 

Iquitos has seen a positive increase in visitor 

numbers over recent years, largely due to the 

start up of quality cruise vessels heading into the 

pristine Pacaya Samiria Reserve. With its rich 

array of flora and fauna and indigenous 

communities it is well worth the two and a half 

hour flight from Lima. Three, four or seven night 

cruises can be taken from Iquitos or the small 

town of Nauta, the frontier town to the reserve. 

Expedition vessels carry between 16 and 28 

passengers and, with experienced naturalist 

guides, fine dining and air-conditioned cabins, it is 

one of the most comfortable ways to experience 

the splendours of the Amazon basin. 

DELFIN I AND II 

The Delfins I and II are sister ships that offer three 

and four night cruises from the town of Nauta into 

the Pacaya Samiria Reserve. The Delfin I was the 

first quality boat to offer voyages in this region and 

carries just 16 passengers in air-conditioned cabins 

with panoramic views of the surrounding rainforest. 

The traditional layout of the boat provides an 

intimate and authentic experience for sailing into 

the reserve. The Delfin II is a more recent addition 

to the fleet and is a 28 passenger, all-suite vessel 

offering space and high levels of comfort whilst 

operating a similar itinerary. 

M/V AQUA 

The M/V Aqua has 12 luxury suites finished to the 

highest standard and boasting outward-facing 180 

degree panoramic windows. There is a large dining 

room serving food prepared by renowned Lima 

chefs, an indoor lounge, and a covered observation 

deck to watch the world sail by. The vessel 

operates three, four and seven night itineraries. 

Suite, M/V Aqua

Royal Tomb of Lord Sipan 

Northern Peru 

The little visited northern areas of Peru are 

notable for their unique cultural and 

archaeological highlights. These ancient sites and 

the nearby colonial towns are a fascinating insight 

into the country’s pre-Inca heritage and 

tempestuous colonial history. From the bustling 

city of Trujillo, with its spacious plaza and colonial 

houses, you can explore the pre-Inca city of Chan 

Chan. This is the largest adobe city in the world 

and was once capital of the Chimu empire, where 

you will find the remains of their palaces, temples 

and gardens. Travelling north, stop at El Brujo 

where the walls are sculpted with colourful 

images of armies and giant spiders, before arriving 

at Chiclayo and the nearby royal tombs of the 

Moche culture, which thrived from about 600 

AD. Here the Lord of Sipan was discovered in a 

tomb filled with treasure, his remains are now in 

the nearby Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum. 

Chachapoyas 

Heading seven hours inland from Chiclayo by 

road, you can take a stunning journey over the 

Andean range into the Chachapoyas region. At its 

heart lies the sleepy village of Tingo above which 

sits the vast and rarely visited pre-Inca walled city 

of Kuelap. Discovered around 60 years before 

Machu Picchu it remains relatively unknown to 

the outside world. The external block wall is over 

600 metres in length and up to 19 metres in 

height. Inside there are 400 cylindrical structures 

synonymous with the Chachapoyan civilisation. 

Rectangular structures suggest that the Incas also 

occupied this site prior to falling to the Spanish. 

Travelling in the Chachapoyas region offers many 

other surprises including the burial tombs in 

Kuelap 

Trujillo 

Chan Chan Kuelap 

Cajamarca 

Revash, the world’s third highest waterfall at 

Gocta and the historical town of Cajamarca which 

is renowned for its graceful colonial architecture. 

We can arrange trips of various lengths to this 

region of Peru on set departures as part of a 

small group or completely tailor-make an itinerary 

to include your preferred sites of interest. 

HOSTAL EL CHILLO, 

NEAR KUELAP 

This friendly country hostal consists of 14 rustic 

and charming rooms, an unheated freshwater 

pool and small attractive gardens where 

hummingbirds are frequent visitors. Located just 

outside the village of Tingo, it is a perfect place 

to relax after exploring Kuelap. 


Plaza de Armas, Cuzco 

Tailoring your trip 

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a 

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that 

work particularly well. We can use these as a 

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely 

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests. 

Please call one of our Peru specialists to start 

planning your itinerary. 

Telephone: 01993 838 620 

Getting around 

Despite being a large country, travelling around 

Peru is relatively straightforward, with a good 

network of internal flights, decent roads where 

overland travel is required, and some spectacular 

rail journeys. The country is also well-connected 

to its neighbours and other South American 

countries for those wishing to visit more than 

one country on their trip. 

Lady and child, Arequipa 

22 

When to go 

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ 

✓✓ The best time to travel. 

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of. 

~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year. 

✕ Travel is not recommended. 

Peru can be visited all year round, although the 

peak season for visiting the Andean areas is 

between April and October during the drier, 

summer months. Outside of this period it can be 

rainy, with January and February typically being the 

wettest months, although this does offer the 

advantage of fewer visitors, greener scenery and 

abundant flora, including orchids at Machu Picchu. 

The Amazon is generally hot, wet and humid year 

round although the drier months again tend to be 

between April and October. Some Amazon 

lodges close outside of these months. The Inca 

Trail is closed to walkers during February. 

Time difference: GMT-5 hours 

Flight time from UK: 16 hours 

Prices 

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of 

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices 

for your trip to Peru on our website, alternatively 

please call our specialists to discuss your plans. 

Lima 

Incas Uncovered 

A classic trip focussing on the heart of the Inca 

empire, exploring Lima, the unique fusion of 

Spanish colonial and Inca architecture in Cuzco, 

the beautiful Sacred Valley of the Incas and 

Machu Picchu. 

Day 1 Fly from the UK to Lima. 

Day 2 Enjoy a guided tour of the highlights 

of Lima. 

Day 3 Fly to Cuzco. Afternoon to relax and 

acclimitise to the altitude. 


of Cuzco and nearby Inca ruins. 

Day 5 Free time to further explore Cuzco. 

Day 6 Take a trip into the Sacred Valley 

visiting Inca ruins and colourful 

local markets. 

Day 7 Take the train to Machu Picchu, 

spend the afternoon exploring 

the site. 

Day 8 Further explorations of the site 

before taking the afternoon train 

back to Cuzco. 

Day 9 Fly to Lima, and then back to the UK. 

Day 10 Arrive in the UK. 

Sacred Valley 

of the Incas 

Machu 

Picchu 

Cuzco 

Stay longer 

Include KM104, walking the last four to six 

hours along the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. 

With a couple of extra days it is possible to 

take the train across the alitplano to Puno 

and visit Lake Titicaca. 

Machu Picchu

Lima 

Classic Peru 

Machu 

Picchu 

Arequipa 

This trip takes in Peru in all its wonderful diversity. 

It is a full but rewarding itinerary that makes use of 

many of the great road and rail journeys between 

iconic destinations such as Lake Titicaca, Cuzco 

and Machu Picchu. 



of Lima. 

Day 3 Fly to Arequipa. Afternoon to relax 

and acclimatise to the altitude. 

Day 4 Enjoy a guided tour of the beautiful 

colonial centre of Arequipa. 

Day 5 Travel by road into the Colca Valley. 

You will pass herds of grazing 

llama and vicuña at altitudes of 

over 4,500 metres. 

Day 6 Early morning excursion to Condor's 

Cross to spot the magnificent birds. 

Afternoon transfer by road to Puno 

on the shores of Lake Titicaca. 

Day 7 Take to the lake by boat and visit 

some of the islands to learn about 

the people and their cultures. 

Day 8 Transfer across the high altiplano by 

road or rail to Cuzco. 

Day 9 Explore Cuzco’s museums, churches, 

bustling streets and nearby Inca ruins. 

Day 10 Travel by road into the Sacred Valley 

of the Incas, visiting colourful markets 

and Inca ruins. 


spend the afternoon exploring 

the site. 

Day 12 Further explorations of the site 

before taking the afternoon train 

back to Cuzco. 



Sacred Valley 

of the Incas 

Cuzco 

Puno 

Colca Canyon 

Stay longer 

Spend an additional night in the Colca Canyon 

to explore the region a little more. Use Cuzco 

as a base to head into the Southern Amazon 

or perhaps include some trekking before 

making your way to Machu Picchu. 

Lima 

Amazon and Incas 

Suggested itineraries 

This itinerary focuses on the natural wonder of the 

Amazon and the man-made wonders of the Incas. 

Explore the steamy rainforest from a comfortable 

lodge before heading up into the Andes to embark 

on the trek of a lifetime to Machu Picchu, where 

you can spend a full day exploring with your guide. 


Day 2 Fly to Puerto Maldonado, transfer by 

motorised canoe to your lodge. 

Days 3-4 Guided excursions from your 

Amazon lodge. 

Day 5 Travel back to Puerto Maldonado 

and fly to Cuzco. Afternoon to relax 

and acclimatise to the altitude. 

Day 6 Explore Cuzco’s museums, churches, 

streets and nearby Inca ruins. 

Day 7 A free day to further explore Cuzco. 

Day 8 Travel by road into the Sacred Valley 

of the Incas, visiting colourful markets 

and Inca ruins. 

Day 9 Begin the Inca Trail from the 

Sacred Valley. 

Days 10-11 Walking the Inca Trail. 

Day 12 The final day on the trail, arrive at 

Machu Picchu in the morning for a 

guided tour of the site. 

Day 13 Return to Machu Picchu to explore 

further before taking the afternoon 

train back to Cuzco. 



Stay longer 

Sacred Valley 

of the Incas 

Machu 

Picchu 

Cuzco 

Puerto 

Maldonado 

Cuzco is the starting point for the Andean 

Explorer train across the high altiplano to Lake 

Titicaca and then on to La Paz, Bolivia. It is also 

possible to replace the southern Amazon lodge 

with an Amazon cruise from the northern city of 

Iquitos or spend more time in Lima to travel 

down to the Nazca Lines. 

Chiclayo 

Trujillo 

Chachapoyas 

Kuelap 

Lima 

Ancient Cultures of Peru 

For those with a specific archaeological interest, 

this tour visits the complex cultures of the 

northern deserts and the enigmatic giant patterns 

of the Nazca Lines before arriving at the incredible 

Inca cities of the Andes. It is a full exploration of 

the country’s fascinating pre-Conquest history. 


Day 2 A tour of Lima including a visit to the 

Larco Herrera Museum. 

Day 3 Full day flight to the mysterious 

Nazca Lines. 

Day 4 Fly to Trujillo. Afternoon excursion to 

the temples of the Sun and Moon. 

Day 5 Drive north towards Chiclayo visiting 

the vast pre-Inca site of Chan Chan 

and ancient monument of El Brujo. 

Day 6 Visit the tomb of Lord Sipan and the 

Royal Tombs of Sipan museum. 

Day 7 Travel inland by road from Chiclayo 

to the Chachapoyas region. 

Day 8 Visit the enormous walled fortress 

of Kuelap. 

Day 9 Visit the colourful funeral 

chambers of Revash or perhaps 

the Gocta waterfall. 

Day 10 Travel by road back to Chiclayo. 

Day 11 Fly from Chiclayo to Lima and up to 

Cuzco. Afternoon to acclimitise to 

the altitude. 

Day 12 A tour of Cuzco and the nearby Inca 

ruins including Sacsayhuaman. 

Day 13 Visit the ruins at Pisac and 

Ollantaytambo, stay overnight in the 

Sacred Valley. 

Day 14 Take the train towards Machu Picchu. 

Alight at KM104 and walk the 

truncated Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. 

Day 15 Explore the Inca citadel of Machu 

Picchu; afternoon return to Cuzco 

by train. 



Sacred Valley 

of the Incas 

Machu 

Picchu 

Cuzco 


24 

The Amazon 

A steamily mysterious tangle of plants, animals 

and indigenous communities; the ‘lungs of the 

world’; a symbol of the destruction of the world’s 

natural resources; or the world’s mightiest river; 

the word ‘Amazon’ fires many people’s 

imagination. Around one third of the surface area 

of the South American continent is part of the 

Amazon basin, and it reaches into nine countries: 

Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, 

Bolivia, Guyana, French Guiana and Suriname. 

Rainforest and river 

The Amazon basin is the name for the area that 

is drained by the Amazon River and all of its 

tributaries, and within that is the world’s largest 

tropical rainforest which covers more than five 

million square kilometres of the continent. 

The river is the forest’s main artery, flowing for 

more than 6,000 kilometres from its source in 

Huaorani man, Ecuadorian Amazon 

Red howler monkey, Brazilian Amazon 

the Peruvian Andes to the Atlantic Ocean on 

Brazil’s northern coast. While considered to be 

second to the Nile where length is concerned, 

this is the world’s widest river and indisputably 

the largest by water volume, indeed the 

Amazon accounts for up to 20 percent of the 

world’s fresh water. 

Not all trips to the Amazon will necessarily 

entail a meeting with what is technically the 

Amazon River itself as it has over 1,000 

tributaries, of which the majority of visitors will 

perhaps encounter one or two: the Apurimac, 

Ucayali or the Madre de Dios (Peru), the 

Madeira (Brazil), the Napo (Ecuador) or the Rio 

Negro (Colombia/Brazil). But if you are in the 

Amazon rainforest then we believe you can 

legitimately say that you have ‘seen, sailed or 

splashed about in the Amazon River’. 

Flora and fauna 

Worldwide, tropical rainforests cover less than 

10% of total land surface and yet contain half of 

the earth’s species of animals and two-thirds of 

all plants. The Amazon itself is considered to be 

home to more than a third of the animal species 

found on Earth: figures vary but scientific 

estimates suggest that some 500 mammals and 

30 million insect types are vying for space here. 

Scarlet macaws flit overhead, jaguars prowl, 

sloths lie along branches and howler monkeys 

fill the forest with their deep-throated calls. In 

the rivers, pink dolphin, giant river otter and 

manatees can be seen among the water lilies, 

beneath which lurk rather more fearsome 

neighbours including the piranha and anaconda. 

Threats to the Amazon and its people 

The Amazon’s worldwide impact is huge: this 

rainforest shapes our climate and weather 

patterns and is believed to store up to half of 

the Earth’s rainwater. The Amazon rainforest 

continuously inhales carbon dioxide and exhales 

oxygen and is accredited with producing over a 

fifth of the world’s oxygen. In an area known 

predominantly for its plant and animal life, the 

human inhabitants are often overlooked. It is 

possible that the current indigenous population 

of the Amazon rainforest is just two percent of 

that five hundred years ago, as disease, 

Peruvian Amazon

deforestation and development have played 

their negative part. It is believed that those 

Indians who do still inhabit the Amazon speak 

over 200 different languages and preserve 

generations’ worth of tribal tradition and 

wisdom. It is also thought that more than half 

of the world’s ‘uncontacted’ tribes live deep 

within the Amazon. 

Audley in the Amazon 

Being so vast if can be difficult to know which 

part of the Amazon to visit. In truth there is no 

right or wrong answer, it is usually a case of 

which area fits in best with the rest of your 

travel plans. The traveller’s experience can vary 

substantially by country, not only in terms of 

infrastructure and accommodation but also due 

to the extraordinary biodiversity of flora and 

fauna. However, to give you an idea of what to 

expect we have given a brief insight of typical 

Amazon experiences below. 

River journeys 

Cruises along tributaries of the Amazon operate 

from Manaus in Brazil (page 73), Iquitos in 

northern Peru (page 20) and Coca in Ecuador 

(page 39). They are largely relaxing affairs with 

the main benefit being air-conditioned facilities 

on board, allowing you to escape the heat and 

humidity of the rainforest. Excursions are taken 

by dugout canoe with naturalist guides along 

smaller, quieter tributaries of the river looking 

for wildlife along the shorelines and in the 

canopy above. Stops are also made at 

indigenous villages to gain an insight into the 

local way of life but on the whole, walking along 

trails through the jungle, is kept to a minimum. 

Amazon lodges 

Lodges present by far the widest range of 

opportunities for exploration of the rainforest. 

Within the Madidi National Park in Bolivia, the 

Tambopata and Manu Reserves in Peru, the 

Yasuni National Park and Huaorani Territory 

in Ecuador and the Anavilhanas and Mamirauá 

Clay lick, Peruvian Amazon 

Reserves in Brazil, there are lodge options for 

the keenest of wildlife enthusiasts, those looking 

for a wonderful overview of the Amazon or 

those seeking a more ‘hands-on’ experience 

staying with a local community. 

Excursions from lodges are usually undertaken at 

dawn and dusk when wildlife is at its most active 

and out of the heat of the day. Experiences 

range from walking well-marked nature trails 

looking for various types of birds and species of 

monkey and sloth, to learning about the 

medicinal properties of plants. In the evening 

you may board a paddle canoe to cross a 

peaceful blackwater lake searching for caiman 

and shore birds or head out on a night walk as 

many of the insect, frog and snake species are 

nocturnal. For keen birdwatchers, some lodges 

are located close to clay licks which are a vital 

source of minerals for parrots and macaws, 

attracting these birds in their swathes early in 

Typical paddle canoe excursion, Amazon basin 

the morning. If staying at a community-based 

lodge you will spend time with the villagers 

learning how they live off the forest, cooking 

with them, learning about their hunting 

techniques and even visiting their local school. 

Lodges vary from the very basic with shared 

facilities, no electricity and cold water, to 

comfortable, well furnished cabins with private 

bathrooms. As a general rule, the best chances 

of spotting wildlife are at the more remote 

lodges and these generally have the most limited 

facilities. If you are seeking more of a cultural 

Amazon experience with more exposure to 

the indigenous tribes you will find that the 

chances of seeing wildlife will be less. 

Responsible travel 

It is important that any kind of travel to the 

Amazon minimises any negative effect 

(or indeed has a positive effect) on its people 

and the environment. We ensure that any visit 

uses lodges or cruises that work sensitively 

with local villagers, or are owned and operated 

by the local communities themselves. This 

enables the local tribes to be self-sufficient and 

resist external political pressures and projects 

that can encroach on to their territory and 

destroy the flora, fauna and their heritage. 

www.audleytravel.com/amazon ● 01993 838 600 ● Amazon 25

Bolivia 

B olivia, the vast but landlocked country 

at the heart of South America, is an 

unforgettable destination. Traditional 

religions, languages, costumes and festivals 

that have spanned many thousands of years 

have been gilded by a layer of Spanish 

colonialism, resulting in a colourful and 

intriguing cultural blend. Combined with 

this is the awe-inspiring natural beauty 

26 

of the country; from the deep blue waters 

of Lake Titicaca framed by snow-capped 

mountains on the horizon, to the 

multi-coloured lakes, vast deserts and 

dazzling salt flats of the southwestern 

plateau and steamy jungles of the Amazon 

basin, and wildlife-rich grasslands of the 

southeast. Cities captivate visitors from 

the world’s highest capital in La Paz, to 

the whitewashed colonial beauty of Sucre 

and the ghostly, eerie presence of Potosí. 

Bolivians are warm and welcoming people, 

always pleased to see someone who takes 

the trouble to visit the country they are so 

rightly proud of. They will ensure your stay, 

whether for a few days or a few weeks, is a 

memorable one. Bolivia is truly South 

America as its most visceral.

Salar de Uyuni 

The vast and breathtaking 

whiteness as far as the eye can 

see of these salt pans is 

emptiness at its most beautiful. 

1 4 La Paz 

2 Southwestern altiplano 

Volcanoes, red, green and 

white lakes and flamingos – 

a unique landscape. 

3 Lake Titicaca 

Glittering blue waters where 

Bolivia keeps its navy, in the 

hope of one day getting its 

sea access back. 

Textiles 

7 

3 

4 

1 

2 

6 

5 

A bustling mix of indigenous 

markets and modern life, 

watched over by Mount Illimani. 

5 Sucre 

A university town of 

whitewashed colonial buildings 

and easy-going charm. 

Train cemetery, near Salar de Uyuni 

6 Cerro Rico, Potosí 

The ‘Rich Hill’ from where silver 

was mined for the Spanish, and 

thousands of indigenous lives 

were lost in its pursuit. Still a 

working mine today, which 

welcomes visitors. 

Lake Titicaca 

7 Madidi National Park 

The Bolivian Amazon boasts a 

huge variety of flora and fauna, 

and a great locally owned and 

run ecolodge. 

Sajama National Park 

Audley in Bolivia 

Bolivia has long been one of our favourite 

South American countries, and our extensive 

knowledge on the ground comes from many 

years of operating tailor-made and group 

travels in this region. It is not a country for 

everyone for many reasons – it certainly lags 

behind its more developed neighbours of 

Peru and Chile in terms of infrastructure for 

visitors. However, those who decide to visit 

are usually overwhelmed by the beauty of 

the country and the welcoming nature of the 

people. An open mind and relaxed travelling 

attitude is required, as there are often strikes, 

demonstrations and road-blocks called at the 

last minute, meaning that some disruption to 

travel plans may ensue. None of this is in 

any way directed at travellers, they are the 

expressions of the local people in a country 

that is one of the poorest in Latin America. 

Another word of caution – most of the 

must-see sights in Bolivia are located at an 

altitude of between 3,500 metres and 

4,500 metres meaning that time to 

acclimatise is vital. 

Accommodation 

Accommodation options in Bolivia are 

limited in a country which does not see a 

high number of foreign visitors. The main 

cities of La Paz and Santa Cruz have some 

international standard hotels, Sucre has a 

handful of delightful colonial properties, and 

Lake Titicaca a couple of comfortable lodges. 

Outside of these areas accommodation 

becomes more basic, right down to 

properties that are little more than huts or 

tents, although creature comforts are 

gradually arriving in most places. We 

particularly like the Tayka hotels in the 

southwestern altiplano, which are owned and 

run by local families as community projects, 

plus the Luna Salada, a quirky property made 

entirely of salt which lies 20 minutes drive 

outside the town of Uyuni. 

Find out more 

For a suggested itinerary and practical 

information about travel in Bolivia, please 

see page 31. 

☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Bolivia 


Bolivia 27

Mother and child, La Paz 

La Paz and Around 

High up in the Andes, the earth suddenly falls 

away to reveal a huge, bowl-shaped canyon, with 

a city spread across its floor and clinging to the 

steep sides. La Paz will quite literally take your 

breath away with its glorious location, overlooked 

by the snow-capped peak of Mount Illimani. It is 

a bustling and often frantic place that is 

fascinating to wander around. Aymara women 

dressed in voluminous skirts and bowler hats, with 

children swaddled in multi-coloured blankets tied 

on their backs, fill the cobbled streets with their 

market stalls. Your purchases here could be 

anything from local handicrafts or coca leaves to 

mysterious potions from the Witchcraft Market. 

Just outside of the city you can get adventurous 

by mounting a bicycle and descending over 

3,000 metres in 55 kilometres into the subtropics 

La Paz 

28 

and the somnolent town of Coroico. This is one 

of several exhilarating downhill bike journeys 

that can be done from La Paz. Your journey 

(which can also be done by car) takes you 

through magnificent scenery, where jagged 

mountains and frozen streams give way to the 

citrus groves and coffee plantations of the Yungas 

sub-tropical region. Climbing your way out of the 

city towards Tiahuanaco and Lake Titicaca you 

will pass through El Alto (‘High One’), a city that 

started as an overspill from La Paz but is now 

bigger than its sister in the canyon. 

Tiahuanaco 

With its monoliths and carved gateways, the ruins 

of Tiahuanaco lie in a windy valley near to Lake 

Titicaca, a couple of hours by road from La Paz. 

It is thought they were once part of a magnificent 

imperial capital that thrived 1,500 years ago and 

was believed to exert more influence than the 

Inca empire in its time, and possibly be the 

inspiration for its more famous successor. 

There are many unusual features here, such as 

stone carvings of snakes with human heads and 

figures with two left hands. It is an intriguing site 

for all those who have an interest in the rich 

pre-Colombian history of the Andes. 

Lake Titicaca 

On the windswept altiplano a short distance 

from La Paz, Lake Titicaca stretches out in a vast 

shimmer of fathomless blue. The lake is sacred to 

Quechua and Aymara people and it is rumoured 

that if someone drowns in the lake, they become 

an offering to the earth goddess Pachamama. 

To avoid becoming an offering to the gods 

yourself, stay out of the icy waters and instead 

take a hydrofoil to explore the islands of the lake 

and the towns along its shore. Spend a relaxing 

day, or even stay, on the serene Sun Island, 

ambling along the paths past Inca fountains and 

grazing llama. Visit the floating islands of the 

Uros-Uruitos community to learn about their 

sustainable tourism project, and explore the 

pilgrimage town of Copacabana where each 

Sunday vehicles bedecked with flowers are 

blessed outside the dazzling Moorish-style 

cathedral for the miles ahead.

Rooftops of Potosí 

Sucre 

Sucre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a 

whitewashed colonial centre, is the city that all 

Bolivians say you must visit, many refer to it as 

their official capital. Ornate churches are sprinkled 

through the narrow streets, tiles with poems hand 

painted onto them are laid into white walls, 

wooden balconies bear bright flowers, and the 

sun usually shines. For an insight into the local 

indigenous groups and their distinctive weavings, 

visit the fascinating Ethnographic Textile Museum 

and follow this with a trip to some of the nearby 

villages such as Tarabuco and Potolo where the 

weaving still takes place. Sucre’s original 

inhabitants have also left a mark of their own – 

the world’s largest collection of dinosaur tracks, 

embedded in a huge limestone rock that can 

be seen nearby. 

PARADOR SANTA MARIA LA 

REAL, SUCRE 

Conveniently located one block from the central 

Plaza de Armas, the Parador Santa Maria la Real 

is a small hotel with only 23 rooms. It is a Spanish 

colonial house from the 18th century which has 

been lovingly restored and adapted into a 

comfortable hotel, retaining all the traditional 

charm of its original structure. 

Colonial architecture, Sucre 

Potosí 

Three hours by road from Sucre, melancholy 

Potosí was once South America’s richest city. 

Today it is a shadow of its former self and grand 

colonial houses stand crumbling, but the skyline is 

still dominated by the Cerro Rico (Rich Hill) 

whose silver brought great wealth for the Spanish 

at the cost of countless slave miners’ lives. No 

visit here would be complete without a trip deep 

into one of the remaining mines, which are now 

worked as co-operatives. This edifying experience 

begins at the market with the purchase of gifts of 

coca leaves, alcohol, cigarettes and dynamite for 

the miners. Torch in hand, you then enter into 

the labyrinth of tunnels to witness the work of 

these men, as they use primitive tools to chip 

away at the inside of the mountain to dislodge 

the silver to which Potosí owes its very existence. 

Sun Island, Lake Titicaca Tarabuco market, near Sucre 

www.audleytravel.com/bolivia ● 01993 838 645 ● Bolivia 29

Green Lagoon, southwest Bolivia 

The Southern Altiplano 

Far off the beaten track, this stark and surreal 

landscape makes for a bumpy, windy yet 

completely captivating few days. The adventure 

begins on the track to the sequestered town of 

Uyuni with its outlying ‘train cemetery’, where the 

skeletons of steam locomotives rust in the sun. 

A blinding sheet of salt awaits you at the Salar de 

Uyuni, the world’s largest salt lake, where you are 

in a simple world of blue and white, or even 

more bizarrely where seasonal waters can reflect 

the sky and dissolve the horizon. Sip coca tea 

sitting on an island in the sea of salt that is 

covered in giant cacti, take a dip in a natural 

thermal pool overlooked by volcanoes, enjoy a 

three course meal on a picnic table watched by 

llamas and alpacas. Continuing south, strange rock 

formations rise up from the desert, mud geysers 

bubble and wisps of smoke curl out of sleeping 

volcanoes. Flamingos strut around lakes of unusual 

but beautiful hues of red, blue, green and white. 

Salar de Uyuni 

30 

Church, Concepción 

Santa Cruz and the 

Jesuit Missions 

Far from the Andean peaks lies the busy and 

humid city of Santa Cruz, where you can see 

sloths hanging in the palm-filled main plaza and 

crowds worshipping in a huge church made of 

bamboo. Heading northeast by road, flat 

farmlands merge into rolling hills and ranches as 

you reach the colonnaded streets of the sleepy 

Jesuit towns, such as Concepción. The fine 

religious craftsmanship of the beautiful churches 

here is a key part of Bolivia’s heritage. If you have 

a keen interest in wildlife, your road journey in 

these lowlands of Bolivia could also take you to 

Amboró National Park for a couple of days. 

Thanks to its three distinct eco-systems that 

encompass the Amazon River basin, the Andean 

foothills and the Chaco plain, this is an area of 

great bio-diversity and is thought to be home to 

more species of life per hectare than anywhere 

else on earth. 

Ecological Areas 

Bolivia has many other virtually undiscovered 

areas for the visitor interested in the natural 

world. Visits to these places are not simple or 

cheap, but the wealth of bio-diversity makes for 

an astounding experience. 

The town of Rurrenabaque, in the northwest 

of Bolivia, is the starting point for trips into the 

Amazonian area of Pilón Lajas Ecological 

Reserve or the vast Madidi National Park that 

encompasses cloud and rainforest. Both have 

excellent lodges (Mapajo in Pilón Lajas and 

Chalalán Ecolodge in Madidi) with indigenous 

guides to explore and search for some of the 

local animal populations including monkeys, 

caiman, turtles and macaws. The dry season of 

June to October is the best time to go. 

Noel Kempff Mercado National Park, in the far 

east of Bolivia, is another unique habitat that 

encompasses rainforest and savannah and over 

620 bird species have been recorded here 

including 20 species of parrot. Its remoteness 

means it receives few visitors and, as with any of 

the places mentioned in this section, the trip is 

an exercise in dedication – but it is worth it for 

the sights that await.


The itinerary shown is designed to give you a 

flavour of what is possible, and is a route that 

works particularly well. We can use this as a basis 

to plan your trip or can design a completely 


Please call one of our Bolivia specialists to start 


Telephone: 01993 838 645 


Bolivia is a big country, but we do not use 

internal flights often as the main attractions do 

not have airports nearby. Therefore most of the 

journeys are done by road, some tarmaced but 

many bumpy, in minibuses or 4x4 vehicles, 

accompanied by a guide and experienced driver. 

We are acutely aware that travelling extensively 

through Bolivia can be a little arduous due to the 

distances involved, the altitude and the possible 

delays, but we firmly believe that it is more than 

worth it, as long as you are prepared for it. 

As well as a stand-alone destination in its own 

right, Bolivia fits in perfectly with itineraries to 

Peru or Chile (or both), and we have researched 

a number of overland routes to combine these 

three countries. 

When to go 


~ ~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~ 





The best time to visit the highland areas is 

between April and October, this is the cooler 

winter period but it should be dry. In the 

southern altiplano the sky will be blue but it will 

be very cold, dropping to many degrees below 

freezing at night. The summer rainy season from 

November to March can cause transport 

problems in the highlands, while the eastern 

lowlands are warm and steamy year-round. 



Prices 


budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline 

prices for your trip to Bolivia on our website, 

alternatively please call our specialists to 

discuss your plans. 

Classic Bolivia 


A stunning adventure to the heart of the country, 

this tour explores the incredible places along 

Bolivia’s Andean spine. From the blue waters of 

Lake Titicaca to the colonial towns of Sucre and 

Potosí to the stunning, desolate landscapes of the 

south. This trip is for those with an adventurous 

spirit and a hankering to get off the beaten track. 

Day 1 Fly from the UK to La Paz. 

Day 2 Arrive in La Paz, rest in order to 

start acclimatising. 

Day 3 Explore the fascinating streets, 

museums and markets of the city. 

Afternoon visit to the 

Tiahuanaco ruins. 

Day 4 Drive to Lake Titicaca, visit the 

Uros-Uruitos Indians on their floating 

islands, continuing to Sun Island. 

Day 5 Re-trace your steps back to La Paz. 

Day 6 Fly to Sucre, afternoon exploration 

of this delightful colonial city. 

Day 7 Travel by road to Potosí, take a tour 

of the silver mine and the colonial 

streets of the city. 

Day 8 Continue your road journey to 

Uyuni, visit the train cemetery. 

Day 9 Head across the vast Salar de Uyuni, 

visit the salt mining settlement of 

Colchani and the unusual Fish Island 

that is covered with giant cacti. 

Day 10 Continue south past lakes of 

varying different hues towards the 

Red Lagoon. 

Day 11 Visit the Sol de Manaña geysers, see 

the stone tree and walk around the 

Green Lagoon. 

Sunset over Salar de Uyuni 

Lake 

Titicaca 

Red 

Lagoon 

Day 12 Continue south, crossing the border 

into Chile and on into the oasis town 

of San Pedro de Atacama. 

Days 13-14 Excursions in the Atacama Desert. 

Day 15 Fly to Santiago to connect with your 

international flight. 


Stay longer 

La Paz 

Uyuni 

Sucre 

Potosí 

Green 

Lagoon 

Green Lagoon 

San Pedro 

de Atacama 

CHILE 

Santiago 

Stay longer on Sun Island to explore more of 

the island and walk to the Chincana ruins. From 

La Paz travel down to the steamy town of 

Coroico, either by car or mountain bike. 

Alternatively, fly north from La Paz to 

Rurrenebaque and into the Amazon at Chalalán 

Lodge. More time in Sucre would allow time to 

visit the colourful indigenous market town of 

Tarabuco. A different and far lesser travelled route 

from Bolivia into Chile is across the stunning 

Sajama National Park, with barren landcapes, 

grazing vicuña and snow-capped volcanoes. 

www.audleytravel.com/bolivia ● 01993 838 645 ● Bolivia 31

Ecuador & the Galapagos 

A diminutive country that boasts a 

wonderfully diverse array of sights, 

Ecuador is a pocket-sized version of all that 

is synonymous with South America. It has 

a landscape dotted with smoking Andean 

volcanoes, well-preserved colonial towns 

and cities, vibrant and colourful indigenous 

markets, understated and charming places 

to stay and vast tracts of sultry Amazon 

32 

rainforest. But Ecuador has one unique 

feature all of its own – the magnificent 

Galapagos Islands. Renowned for its wide 

variety of wildlife, it is most famously the 

location that inspired Charles Darwin’s 

theory of evolution, and a visit to these 

fascinating islands is one of the world’s 

great travel experiences. What sets the 

wildlife encounters apart here is the 

complete lack of fear the animals have of 

humans, enabling visitors to enjoy their 

closest ever encounter with nature. Whilst 

many visitors see Ecuador as a springboard 

for the Galapagos those who do stay for a 

few days on the mainland are often 

surprised by this often overlooked country, 

proving the old maxim that the best things 

really do come in small packages.

1 

2 Otavalo 

One of the most colourful 

markets in South America – 

the locals sell handicrafts, 

textiles and paintings in a 

relaxed atmosphere. 

3 Quito 

The capital has a restored 

colonial, UNESCO-protected 

centre, plus a vibrant cafe and 

restaurant culture. 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 Galapagos Islands 

4 Cotopaxi National Park 6 The Amazon 

An obvious must-see, there is The world’s highest active The easily accessible Ecuadorian 

nowhere else on earth like volcano has an almost perfect Amazon offers some excellent, 

these islands. The animals really conical shape , and its 

indigenous community-owned 

do have no fear of man. surroundings attract walkers, and run ecolodges with 

mountain bikers, horse riders rewarding wildlife viewing. 

and climbers. 

Haciendas 

5 Cuenca 

A stay at a traditional farmhouse 

Ecuador’s prettiest city and offers a wonderful insight into 

home to the famous Panama 

hat factories. 

Ecuadorian history 

Panama hat maker, Cuenca 

The cobbled streets of Quito’s old town 

6 

Audley in Ecuador and 

the Galapagos 

Ecuador is a wonderfully welcoming place, 

and travelling around the compact mainland 

is an easy-going, entertaining and scenic 

experience. It can be as adventurous or 

as relaxing as you would like. Based on your 

preferences and budget we can provide 

full-time drivers and guides, or just arrange 

for you to have a vehicle with driver. 

However you decide to travel, we will 

ensure that you get the most from your 

time here, whether you are making 

something of a road trip and are moving on 

each day, or staying at one of the haciendas 

for a few relaxing days. For those with 

sufficient time we recommend a journey 

down the length of the country, dispensing 

the need for internal flights and ensuring you 

see the most of the magnificent scenery of 

the country. The Galapagos Islands are 

reached by short flights from the mainland 

cities of Quito or Guayaquil. 

Accommodation 

One of the attractions of Ecuador is its 

charming range of places to stay. For a taste 

of the colonial heritage of the country, we 

recommend a night or two in one of the 

restored haciendas built on the grand estates 

of the colonial era. Each has its own 

particular history and character, the grounds 

are extensive and the settings often 

unrivalled, offering an idyllic rural retreat. 

When in the towns and cities, the colonial 

influence manifests itself in elegant 

townhouses with rooms set around a central 

courtyard. Often in the heart of the historical 

centre, these hotels are ideally placed to 

explore the nearby sights, restaurants and 

markets. Ecuador also has a superb selection 

of lodges deep in the Amazon rainforest, 

many of which are run in conjunction with 

the local indigenous communities. 

Find out more 


information about travel in Ecuador and the 

Galapagos, please see pages 42-43. 

☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Ecuador 


Ecuador & the Galapagos 33

Quito at night 

Quito 

Set in an Andean valley with the verdant 

Pichincha volcano rising to the west, Quito is 

the capital of Ecuador. From the scenic hill of El 

Panecillo, the Virgin of Quito spreads her silver 

wings and watches over the fine colonial buildings 

of the old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Its chaotic narrow streets, lined with colonial 

churches, monasteries and mansions, radiate 

outwards from attractive plazas. Recently spruced 

up, this part of the city tempts the visitor with its 

abundance of history at every turn and a walking 

tour here is a must. The city’s newer area has less 

of historic interest but this is where you will find 

the majority of the shops, cafes and restaurants. 

ACCOMMODATION IN QUITO 

Quito can roughly be divided into two areas in 

which most accommodation is based. The new 

town or ‘La Mariscal’ has undergone significant 

regeneration in recent years and now has a 

thriving cafe, bar and restaurant scene. Here you 

will find a number of modern four and five star 

hotels with excellent facilities and convenient 

access to the international airport. The area is 

also seeing an increase in smaller properties such 

as the Casa Aliso and Anahi boutique hotels, ideal 

for those seeking something with a little character 

but close to the vibrant social scene. 

The old town is the most common place to 

stay for those wanting to explore the UNESCO 

centre. Here charming B&B hotels such as the 

Relicario del Carmen and Villa Colonna offer 

thoughtfully decorated rooms around small 

courtyards and a very personalised service, all 

just footsteps from the main square. Close by, 

and with a few more facilities including a good 

restaurant serving Spanish and local specialities, 

is the ever popular Patio Andaluz. For the jewel 

in the crown of luxury hotels, the Plaza Grande 

is located on the corner of the main square and 

has Victorian touches with a classical feel. There 

is an impressive grand dining room, elegant cafe, 

huge wine cellar and a cognac, cigar and 

champagne bar. 

Around Quito 

Virgin of Quito, El Panecillo El Sagrario church, Quito 

34 

North of Quito is the geographic feature that 

gives the country its name, the equator. There 

are a number of locations each marked by a 

monument and ubiquitous painted line on the 

ground offering you the opportunity to stand 

with ‘one foot in each hemisphere’. 

Around one hour east of the capital is Ecuador’s 

fourth highest peak, Antisana. The attached 

ecological reserve enables visitors to get up close 

to rocky peaks which give way to a vast sweep of 

Andean vegetation, home to beautiful paramo 

flowers and rich Andean birdlife. Close by is the 

town of Papallacta, renowned for its thermal 

springs and their reputed curative powers.

Otavaleños trading corn at the market 

Equator line and monument, near Quito 

Otavalo and the North 

A couple of hours north of Quito the small town 

of Otavalo, nestling in amongst the surrounding 

hills and mountains, is famous for its bustling 

indigenous market, which dates back to pre-Inca 

times. One of the most colourful and vibrant 

markets in South America, the stalls are spread 

over three main squares and spill over into the 

adjacent streets. The Otavaleños host the market 

in their distinctive traditional dress – the men 

sport calf-length white trousers, rope sandals and 

ponchos and wear their hair in ponytails; the 

women wear delicately embroidered blouses and 

dark skirts, long hair in swinging braids, their 

wrists adorned by red beads. Barter for one of 

the many high-quality crafts and textiles on offer, 

or just soak up the atmosphere with a stroll 

around the market. 

The surrounding villages also retain quirky 

traditions such as Calderón, where bakeries turn 

out intriguing bread dough figurines in many 

shapes and sizes. Nearby San Antonio de Ibarra 

is famous for its woodcarvings and the town of 

Cotacachi is entirely dedicated to selling fine 

leather products. Alternatively visit local houses 

in Peguche where textiles are woven on oldfashioned 

shuttle looms. 

Imbabura volcano near Otavalo 

Hacienda Cusin, near Otavalo 

Haciendas of Northern Ecuador 

Around Otavalo you will find the widest 

choice of haciendas in Ecuador. Dating back 

to the 17th century, many of the estates 

survived the liberation of the country from 

the Spanish. Many important figures, such as 

the liberator General Simón Bolívar, have 

been significant guests at these properties. 

Today they have been lovingly restored and 

house an abundance of antiquities, roaring 

fireplaces, quaint chapels and pretty 

courtyards teeming with hummingbirds. 

Closest to the town of Otavalo are the 

haciendas of Cusin and Pinsaqui. Long term 

Audley favourites, they are perfectly located 

for exploring the villages and markets around 

Otavalo whilst also offering great outdoor 

activities such as walks around stunning crater 

lakes and horse riding. More remote is the 

beautiful working farm of Hacienda Zuleta. 

Opened to guests around ten years ago, the 

hacienda has just 15 rooms offering rustic 

luxury. Activities are primarily undertaken 

within the grounds and include over 50 

kilometres of self-guided Andean trails and 

horse riding on some of the finest horses in 

Ecuador. There is also a condor rehabilitation 

Otavalo market 

centre, fishing pond and pre-Inca pyramids 

located within the property boundaries. 

Further north is the converted hacienda of 

Pantaví. Situated in the heart of the Chota 

valley, home to the Afro-Ecuadorian 

communities, the beautiful gardens, small 

pool and charming hosts make this a 

beautiful base to explore this region. 

Activities in this secluded corner of the 

country include walking amongst farming 

plantations, mountain biking, soaking in 

thermal springs and discovering the unique 

culture of the Chotas. 

Hacienda Zuleta 

www.audleytravel.com/ecuador ● 01993 838 655 ● Ecuador & the Galapagos 35

Chimborazo, Avenue of Volcanoes 

The Avenue of Volcanoes 

The long and picturesque valley south of Quito 

towards Cuenca is the start of Ecuador’s 

indigenous heartland. Creeping up the mountain 

slopes in different shades of green and gold, the 

patchwork-quilt fields give way to snow-capped 

peaks. The most imposing of these is the perfect 

cone shape of Cotopaxi, the highest active 

volcano in the world. At its foot, its eponymous 

national park is an ideal place for spending the 

night in one of the local haciendas from where 

you can enjoy a gentle hike, a visit to a rose 

plantation or some horse riding. The surrounding 

countryside is also peppered with indigenous 

villages which play host to colourful local markets 

on different days of the week. 

Heading west you will come across some of the 

most beautiful and isolated parts of the Andes 

for walking, including the spectacular emerald 

waters of the Quilotoa crater lake. If you continue 

down the Avenue of Volcanoes you will reach 

the town of Riobamba, which lies in the shadow 

of Chimborazo, the country’s highest volcano. 

This is the starting point for the dramatic ‘Devil’s 

Nose’ train journey. As the train wends its way 

south through the mountains and lakes, it reaches 

a steep cliff where a series of thrilling switchbacks, 

carved out of the sheer rockface, allows it to 

zigzag its way down. 

36 

San Agustin de Callo, Cotopaxi 

SAN AGUSTIN DE CALLO, 

NEAR COTOPAXI 

Located within the boundaries of the Cotopaxi 

National Park, this lovely hacienda grants guests 

a glimpse of the influences of the two dominant 

powers in Ecuador’s rich past. Ongoing 

excavation has revealed that the Spanish hacienda 

was built on the site of Inca ruins; the present 

owners have been careful to incorporate much 

of the stonework into the newer buildings. With 

the accommodation in 11 individually decorated 

guestrooms, divided between three houses, this 

is a superb base to explore the surrounding 

villages and markets. 

LA CIENEGA, NEAR COTOPAXI 

The magnificent, eucalyptus tree-lined drive is a 

fitting approach to this 17th century hacienda 

complete with its original private chapel and 

beautifully manicured gardens. Situated on the 

slopes of the imposing Cotopaxi volcano, the two 

metre thick walls of the house are constructed of 

volcanic stone. The house has an extensive 

documented history which guests can learn 

about during their stay in one of the 36 simply 

furnished rooms. 

La Cienega, Cotopaxi

Local girl, Gualaceo valley 

Panama hats, Cuenca 

Cotopaxi volcano 

Cuenca 

Arguably Ecuador’s prettiest city, Cuenca was 

founded by the Spanish in the mid-16th century. 

The colonial centre is small enough to explore on 

foot, and has a plethora of fine town houses and 

quaint market squares, the best of which, the 

Plaza de las Flores, explodes with colour in a 

beautiful display of flowers. The cobbled streets, 

graceful ironwork balconies and beautiful gardens 

led UNESCO to declare it a World Heritage Site. 

The gentle hills around the city are dotted with 

small villages known for their handicrafts. A visit 

to this region may end with the purchase of a 

Panama hat, as Cuenca is its recognised home. 

Cuenca cathedral 

SANTA LUCIA, CUENCA 

A long time Audley favourite, the Santa Lucia 

is perfectly situated in the heart of the colonial 

centre of Cuenca. Itself one of the city’s most 

significant buildings, the hotel dates back to 

1859 and has been beautifully restored, with 

an abundance of polished wood and antique 

furnishings. The 20 guest bedrooms are 

opulently decorated with period furniture and 

expensive fabrics. 

Santa Lucia, Cuenca 

MANSION ALCAZAR, CUENCA 

This 19th century mansion has been beautifully 

restored to its original grandeur, and is perhaps 

the most sophisticated and charming place to stay 

in Cuenca. The luxurious rooms open out on two 

floors to an interior courtyard complete with 

chandelier and trickling fountain. The attention to 

detail is evident in the scattering of rose-petals on 

the antique beds and the hot-water bottle to 

warm you as you snuggle into your bed. 

Around Cuenca 

An hour east of Cuenca is the picturesque 

Gualaceo valley. Surrounded by towering Andean 

peaks, the valley is home to numerous indigenous 

villages each with their own unique handicrafts. 

Delicate handmade and painted guitars can be 

found in the village of San Bartolomé and at 

nearby Sigsag, toquilla straw is harvested and 

prepared to weave Panama hats. The quaint 

village of Chordeleg, surrounded by orchards and 

sugar cane plantations, has many stores selling 

jewellery in gold and silver and is renowned 

locally for its green and yellow pottery. 

To the north of Cuenca, a noteworthy example 

of Inca architecture, Ingapirca, can be found, 

where to this day archaeologists are still 

uncovering new examples of finely-laid and 

intricate Inca stonework. 


Saraguro man, southern Ecuador 

Southern Ecuador 

South of Cuenca the Pan American Highway 

winds itself through increasingly remote 

countryside into the Saraguro (‘land of the corn’) 

region of the country. The Saraguros are one of 

the most distinctive communities in Ecuador with 

their unique black clothing, own dialect of 

Quechua language and elaborate silver and nickel 

jewellery. Their relaxed way of life has led to an 

unusual longevity with some of the oldest people 

in the world living here. 

The main city in the region is Loja which has a 

fascinating faded colonial centre and a noticeably 

warmer climate than other parts of the Andes. 

The city lies on the western edge of the 

Podocarpus National Park, one of the world’s 

most bio-diverse areas, with its variety of habitats 

and large expanses of virgin forest sheltering a 

dazzling variety of wildlife. It is particularly 

renowned for birdlife with over 600 species 

that make their home here, representing 40% 

of all avian species in Ecuador. Podocarpus is 

also home to fantastic orchids and spectacular 

scenery including pristine Andean lakes and 

waterfalls. This region is best travelled by road 

over a period of three to four days or by a 

spectacular 45 minute early morning flight from 

Quito which spans the entire length of the 

Avenue of Volcanoes. 

38 

Paradise tanager, Podocarpus National Park 

El Cajas National Park 

Guayaquil and around 

For those travelling from the Andean highlands 

to the coast by road, the last leg of the journey 

is as breathtaking as what has preceded it. You 

will head west from Cuenca into the rugged 

wilderness of El Cajas National Park. The craggy 

hills are interspersed with more than 200 lagoons 

and lakes: a full day’s drive through here descends 

into the breathtaking steamy coastal lowlands 

that lead to Guayaquil, the largest city in the 

country. The city has not had much to entice the 

visitor, but large parts of it have recently been 

renovated and the harbour area is now a pleasant 

place for a stroll and a bite to eat. Flights to and 

from the Galapagos touch down in Guayaquil, 

making the city a logistically sensible place for 

an overnight stop. 

Guayaquil cathedral

Huaorani lady Tiger-striped tree frog 

Napo parrot 

Ecuadorian Amazon 

The Ecuadorian wedge of the Amazon rainforest 

will enchant visitors with its cacophony of 

birdsong, the playful whoops of monkeys, the still 

black waters of the rivers, and the flutter of 

colourful butterflies and tropical birds. Wildlife 

spotting opportunities are excellent at the lodges 

here, and your guides may be from local 

indigenous communities, as they are becoming 

more involved with eco-tourism and have 

unrivalled knowledge of the Amazonian flora and 

fauna. They can point out rare species of 

kingfisher, signal where to look for river dolphins 

on a canoe excursion, or explain the medicinal 

purposes of some of the thousands of plants. 

You will usually enter the rainforest by air, and 

then travel by boat to one of the jungle lodges 

tucked away on the rivers, or take a cruise of 

several days on a boat such as the Manatee 

Explorer. Ecuador is proud of its relatively remote 

and unspoiled Amazon, which offers an authentic 

rainforest experience to its visitors. 

NAPO WILDLIFE CENTRE 

This lodge is located within the Yasuní National 

Park in the northern Amazon region. Guests are 

welcomed to the lodge with a refreshing 

passion-fruit drink after a five hour naturalist tour 

downriver from Coca, during which time you will 

already have seen a plethora of rare bird and 

plant-life. The lodge is exclusive, with just ten 

Sacha Lodge 

simple but well-equipped cabanas, each with 

private balcony and beautiful views of the 

rainforest. Your hosts here are the local Anangu 

community who built the lodge, and are 

experienced naturalist guides who will accompany 

you on excursions into the jungle and welcome 

your questions about the area. Fishing trips and 

excursions to the nearby parrot lick are often 

highlights of an Amazon stay here. Napo’s profits 

go back into the community and towards 

Amazon preservation. 

SACHA LODGE 

Sacha Lodge is located in a private reserve on 

the River Napo, two and a half hours by 

motorised canoe from Coca. The lodge overlooks 

the scenic black water Pilchicocha Lake, replete 

with marine and birdlife. Guests will stay in one 

of the comfortable double cabins, each with a 

private terrace and designed to look as 

Cobalt-winged parakeets 

Pygmy marmoset monkey 

unobtrusive as possible amidst the dense jungle 

vegetation. Sacha is renowned for its warm 

welcome, skilled naturalist guides and delicious 

cuisine. It also boasts an observation tower, ideal 

for bird watching, and a 300 metre long walkway 

that threads through the jungle canopy. 

HUAORANI ECOLODGE 

Huaorani Ecolodge provides the unique cultural 

experience of living near and learning about the 

Huaorani culture. It is situated in terra firma 

rainforest (forest that is never flooded) about 

a 90 minute walk, or 45 minute canoe ride 

from the community of Quehueri’ono. The 

accommodation consists of five palm-thatched 

cabins constructed of local wood, within which 

are fitted modern tents. The lodge provides 

guests with one of the most authentic 

experiences – to meet one of the last indigenous 

Amazon cultures to be contacted by missionaries 

during the 19th century. 

Huaorani Ecolodge 


Galapagos sea lions 

The Galapagos Islands 

The Galapagos Islands’ reputation as one of the 

world’s great travel experiences is more than 

justified, and it is one of those destinations that 

surpasses all expectations. The diverse range of 

animals that live on these remote islands have 

no fear of man, and this is what makes the 

experience a truly unique one. A trip around 

their home is a real delight and will provide 

many lingering memories. Walking along sandy 

beaches, skirting around the lazy sea lions as 

their inquisitive pups try to steal your shoelaces, 

watching the comical blue-footed boobies 

perform their mating dance, carefully stepping 

around a tangled pile of sun-bathing marine 

iguanas and admiring the male great frigate bird’s 

inflated red chest will all be part of an 

unforgettable Galapagos experience. 

Land iguana 

40

Blue-footed booby Marine iguana 

Sea lion pup Giant tortoise Nazca boobies 

Galapagos Wildlife 

The foremost attraction of the islands for visitors 

is the fearlessness of the animals, enabling you to 

enjoy one of your closest ever encounters with 

nature. The birdlife is abundant, with albatross, 

penguins, boobies, frigate birds, flamingos, 

cormorants and finches among the species you 

are likely to see. Reptiles are most famously 

represented by Lonesome George, believed to be 

the last surviving giant tortoise from the island of 

La Pinta, and there are numerous marine iguanas, 

golden land iguanas and colourful lava lizards. 

No amount of photos will prepare you for the 

sheer number of sea lions seen across the 

archipelago. In addition, there is a small 

population of fur seals. The diversity of the 

wildlife is not solely reserved for terra firma with 

an estimated 400 species of fish roaming the 

Galapagos waters. 

Flightless cormorant 

Exploring the Galapagos 

Exploration of the Galapagos is either undertaken 

on an expedition cruise vessel or as part of a 

package from a hotel or lodge. No two days in 

the islands are the same due to the enormous 

diversity of landscapes, flora and fauna, but each 

day tends to start with an early rise. Every visitor 

site is approached on a panga (small inflatable 

speedboat) where a wet or dry landing awaits. 

Wet landings will involve taking the panga to the 

shoreline and disembarking into the edge of the 

surf whereas some visitor sites have jetties 

constructed to allow for a dry landing. 

In groups that will number a maximum of 16 

(this is the maximum passenger to guide ratio 

allowed by the Galapagos National Park), you will 

explore each visitor site on foot, maybe with an 

optional snorkelling excursion afterwards. The 

process is repeated in the afternoon at another 

area of interest, perhaps rounded off with some 

time on a beach. Back on board the boat or in 

your hotel there will be time for a drink and 

some dinner before a briefing on the following 

day’s activities. Most people tend to go to bed 

early in Galapagos thanks to the combination of 

fresh air and new experiences, and in preparation 

for the following morning’s adventures. 

Audley in the 

Galapagos 

With the wealth of options available, 

planning a trip to the Galapagos can 

seem like a daunting prospect. We 

hope this is where we can help as our 

specialists have travelled extensively to 

the islands with Audley. We have 

arranged trips for over 2,500 clients in 

the last ten years so have all of their 

experience and feedback to draw on. 

We offer a hand-picked choice of 

expedition vessels and comfortable 

hotels which we believe will provide a 

perfect base for your Galapagos trip. 

This information is 

collated together 

with inspirational 

features and answers 

to commonly asked 

questions in 

our dedicated 

brochure. 

Please call our 

specialists on 

01993 838 635 

for your copy. 

G ALAPAGOS 

TA ILO R - M A D E J O U R N E Y S F O R T H E D ISC ERN ING T R A V ELLER 


La Compañia church, Quito 







Please call one of our Ecuador specialists to start 


Telephone: 01993 838 655 


Being a small country most of Ecuador can be 

travelled by road but a good network of flights 

can speed up a number of journeys, particularly as 

the majority of Ecuadorian roads are something of 

a bumpy ride. The Amazon and Galapagos are 

only accessible by air. 

When to go 





Ecuador hosts visitors all year-round. The Andean 

highlands are very much an archetypal ‘four 

season in one day’ destination, and the altitude 

means that it is always cold at night. As a rough 

guide the driest months in the Andes are May to 

October although the rains do not arrive in 

earnest until January. Conversely, although 

generally hot and wet year round, the drier 

months in the Ecuadorian Amazon tend to be 

between December and April. The Galapagos 

can be visited year round although September 

can be cooler and the seas choppier. 



Prices 



prices for your trip to Ecuador on our website, 



Frigate bird, Galapagos Islands Hat seller, Otavalo market 

42 


✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ 

Galapagos 

Islands 

Guayaquil 

Otavalo 

Quito 

Colours of Ecuador 

Enjoy a fascinating trip to mainland Ecuador, 

including the historical centre of Quito and the 

colourful markets of the north, before heading to 

the Galapagos Islands for your closest ever 

encounter with wildlife. 

Day 1 Fly from the UK to Quito. 


of Quito. 

Day 3 Take a full day trip to the colourful 

market towns of Otavalo and the 

surrounding area. 

Days 4-7 Fly to the Galapagos and board your 

chosen vessel. Daily excursions on 

the islands sailing overnight to your 

next destination. 

Day 8 Disembark your vessel and transfer 

to a Galapagos hotel for a two night 

stay. 

Day 9 Relax by the pool or undertake 

some additional excursions within 

the Galapagos. 

Day 10 Fly to Guayaquil, on the Ecuadorian 

mainland, connecting with your 

flight home. 


Stay longer 

Spend more time in the Galapagos by taking a 

longer voyage on your chosen vessel, or choose to 

explore the Avenue of Volcanoes or the Amazon.

Galapagos 

Islands 

Guayaquil 

Wildlife of Ecuador 

This itinerary would appeal to those with a general 

interest in nature but also satisfy the most serious 

naturalist, with its exploration of all Ecuador’s most 

diverse natural landscapes. The trip delves into the 

Amazon rainforest before flying out to ‘Darwin’s 

Laboratory’ the Galapagos Islands. 


Day 2 Enjoy a tour of the colonial ‘old city’. 

Day 3 Fly to Coca and continue by motor 

canoe to your chosen Amazon lodge. 

Days 4-5 Excursions in the rainforest. 

Day 6 Retrace your steps to Quito for 

one night. 





Day 14 Disembark your boat. Fly to 

Guayaquil and connect with your 

flight home. 


Stay longer 

Quito 

Enjoy a hacienda stay in either Cotopaxi or near 

Otavalo before or after your Amazon trip. 

Alternatively, extend your time in the Galapagos 

with a few days’ rest and relaxation at a 

comfortable hotel after your cruise. 

Squirrel monkey, Ecuadorian Amazon 

Coca 

Galapagos 

Islands 

Guayaquil 

Ecuador Uncovered 

This comprehensive exploration of Ecuador 

combines the fascinating mainland sights of the 

cities of Quito and Cuenca, a stay in a historic 

hacienda and a trip south through the area that 

the 19th century explorer Alexander Von 

Humboldt dubbed the ‘Avenue of Volcanoes’. 

Finish with a magical cruise around the wildlife 

sites of the Galapagos. 


Day 2 Enjoy a tour of the colonial ‘old city’. 

Optional afternoon trip to the 

Equatorial Monument. 

Day 3 Travel north to Otavalo, for a night in 

a historic hacienda. 

Day 4 Visit the colourful Otavalo market; 

afternoon return to Quito. 

Day 5 Travel south of Quito through 

the ‘Avenue of the Volcanoes’ 

to Riobamba. 

Day 6 Take the train to Alausí and enjoy 

the thrill of riding the famous ‘Devil’s 

Nose’ train; continue by road to 

Cuenca via the Inca ruins at Ingapirca. 

Day 7 Morning sightseeing in 

colonial Cuenca. 

Day 8 Travel by road through El Cajas 

National Park to the port city 

of Guayaquil. 





Day 14 Disembark your boat. Fly back to 

Guayaquil and connect with your 

flight home. 


Stay longer 


Otavalo 

Riobamba 

Cuenca 

Quito 

Add some time in the Amazon before or after 

heading to Otavalo and before heading south 

through the Avenue of Volcanoes. Alternatively, 

extend your time in Cuenca to visit the 

Gualaceo region. 

Galapagos 

Islands 

Incas and Islands 

Combine two of South America’s most famous 

sights in one trip, visiting Machu Picchu in Peru 

and the Galapagos Islands of Ecuador. This itinerary 

has an unhurried exploration of the heart of the 

Inca empire in and around Cuzco before a visit 

to the Galapagos, getting up close to the 

incredible wildlife. 


Day 2 Fly on to Cuzco, where the 

afternoon is at leisure to acclimatise. 

Day 3 A comprehensive tour of the 

highlights of Cuzco and the nearby 

Inca ruins. 

Day 4 Travel into the Sacred Valley of the 

Incas, visit Inca ruins and a colourful 

local market. 


enjoy a guided tour of the citadel. 

Day 6 Return to the ruins in the morning to 

explore further before taking the 

train back to Cuzco. 

Day 7 Fly from Cuzco to Quito in Ecuador. 

Day 8 Enjoy a tour of the capital of 

Ecuador and a visit to the Equatorial 

Monument. 


vessel for a three night voyage. Daily 

excursions on the islands sailing 

overnight to your next destination. 

Day 12 Fly back to Guayaquil and connect 

with your international flight home. 


Stay longer 

ECUADOR 

Guayaquil 

Add some time in the Amazon basin in Peru or 

Ecuador. Alternatively take the Andean Explorer 

train from Cuzco across the high altiplano to Lake 

Titicaca to visit the curious islands and admire 

the stunning scenery before flying up to Ecuador. 

www.audleytravel.com/ecuador ● 01993 838 655 ● Ecuador & the Galapagos 43 

Lima 

Quito 

PERU 

COLOMBIA 

Machu 

Piccchu 

Cuzco

Colombia 

Sitting at the top of South America 

and the only country to span 

both Pacific and Caribbean coasts, 

Colombia is perhaps the continent’s 

best kept secret. It’s a sunny, temperate 

land that can be visited year-round, 

offering pristinely preserved colonial 

towns such as Cartagena and Villa 

de Leyva and diverse natural 

habitats with its rainforests and 

national parks full of astonishing 

animal and bird diversity. Added to 

this is a world-famous coffee culture 

and some fabulous unspoilt coastline. 

The country’s exuberant people enjoy 

revelry and culture and have a 

continent-wide reputation as the 

most friendly and welcoming of 

South American nations. Perhaps 

this is to be expected as they are 

determined to prove that there is 

more to their country than the clichéd 

image it holds around the world. 

Dancer, Cartagena festival 

44 

1 

5 

4 

3 

2 

Cartagena 

1 Cartagena 

A beautiful and lively colonial 

city on the Caribbean coast, 

declared a UNESCO World 

Heritage Site. 

Tayrona National Park 

2 Tayrona National Park 

Jungle-covered coastline 

boasting idyllic beaches and 

diverse wildlife. 

3 Villa de Leyva 

A perfectly preserved colonial 

town in the hills, with a relaxed 

pace of life and ideal to wander 

around on foot. 

Villa de Leyva 

4 The Coffee Region 

Stunning rolling landscapes of 

coffee plantations and exquisite 

fincas. A place to relax, learn 

and drink. 

5 Medellín 

Colombia’s second city is a 

mix of modern and traditional 

style and an interesting place 

to explore.

Local bus, Medellín 

Bogotá 

Colombia’s capital city is a place of contrasts, 

from bustling modern areas of architectural glass 

and glitz, to La Candelaria, the charming colonial 

old town and bohemian quarter. Here colourful 

buildings and 400-year old churches dot narrow 

cobbled streets leading to leafy plazas, packed 

with restaurants, coffee shops and nightclubs. 

The city has a rich cultural calendar with many 

literary and arts festivals to enjoy and a selection 

of excellent museums including one which 

houses the world’s most important collections 

of pre-Hispanic gold. Although not generally a 

major focus of a trip to Colombia, Bogotá is 

nevertheless worth a look. 

Medellín 

Medellín, Colombia’s second largest city, has a 

vibrant but easy-going pace and extremely 

welcoming people. Perched high in the central 

Cordillera overlooking a valley, this beguiling city, 

one of the Andes’ most northerly, has mountain 

views from every angle and feels like a friendly 

provincial town. Dubbed the ‘City of Eternal 

Spring’ because of its year-round temperate 

climate, its once troubled history is now 

thankfully a thing of the past and visitors here 

will enjoy a lively cultural scene and buzzing 

nightlife. Wandering Medellin’s narrow streets 

enables visitors to experience the eclectic mix 

of museums and exhibitions, and stop off at a 

typical cafe where you can sample delicious 

local empanadas. Close to Medellín is the 

colonial town of Santa Fe de Antioquia which 

is worth a day trip to see its finely preserved 

historical centre. 

Zona Cafetera 

Colombia is synonymous with coffee – its rich, 

full-bodied beans have been savoured around the 

globe for almost two hundred years. The coffee 

region (known as the ‘Zona Cafetera’) is centred 

around the towns of Pereira and Armenia and it 

is becoming something of an attraction, with 

visitors coming to stay in its traditional fincas to 

sample the delicious rich roasts at source. If you 

have a real interest in coffee then coffee-tasting 

courses can be arranged here. Geographically the 

area is stunning, with spectacular panoramas of 

rolling hillsides and lush fertile valleys, all full of 

plantations. Whether you drink coffee or not, 

this area is known as the heart and soul of the 

country and so a few days here gives an 

experience of the real Colombia at its friendliest 

and most welcoming. 

Coffee plantation near Pereira 

Audley in Colombia 

For many reasons Colombia has had a lot 

of press coverage over the years, and has 

developed a reputation that may deter 

many people from visiting. But, after decades 

of civil conflict, the country has entered a 

period of stable government, and as a 

result visitor numbers to this beautiful 

country are increasing. Colombia is now 

without doubt one of our favourite 

destinations in Latin America for a diverse 

and enthralling experience, albeit one for 

those with an adventurous spirit and a desire 

to see somewhere still off the tourism radar. 

We arrange trips to many regions, from 

the Caribbean coast in the north, to the 

Andean cities, right down to the Amazon 

basin in the southeast. You will find 

Colombian people most welcoming, and we 

try to plan our itineraries to give you a good 

introduction to Colombian life, combined 

with the more obvious attractions such as 

Cartagena. Our group of hand-picked guides 

are delighted to have the opportunity to 

show off their country. 

Accommodation 

Accommodation throughout the country 

varies dramatically from town to town, and 

coast to coast. The large cities of Bogotá and 

Cartagena have excellent hotels available to 

suit all budgets from charming boutique 

properties in lovingly restored colonial 

buildings to luxurious five star options. In the 

coffee region, we use beautiful fincas that 

make for a peaceful base to explore from 

and let you really get under the skin of rural 

Colombia. Outside of these main areas, 

however, the accommodation choice is 

limited, although it is gradually growing as 

the country starts to develop its visitor 

infrastructure. But whilst you may not be 

assured of all creature comforts you are 

certainly assured of a warm welcome. 

Find out more 


information about travel in Colombia, 

please see page 47. 

☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Colombia 


Colombia 45

Cartagena 

Villa de Leyva 

Villa de Leyva, four hours by road from Bogotá 

(via the underground salt cathedral at Zipaquirá), 

has become something of a chic getaway for 

those who live in the capital. Founded in 1572, 

the beautifully preserved colonial town, with its 

boutiques and galleries amid whitewashed 

buildings and cobbled plazas, was declared a 

national monument in 1954. The town’s main 

square, a vast expanse bordered by elegant 

colonial buildings, is steeped in character and is 

reputedly the largest of its kind in the country. 

Walk its sleepy streets and you’ll come across a 

selection of churches, all dating back to the 

16th and early 17th centuries. Close by in the 

beautiful surrounding countryside you can visit 

pre-Colombian archaeological sites, or enjoy 

some horse riding or gentle walks. 

Cartagena 

The city of Cartagena epitomises the country 

of Colombia with its energy, culture and history. 

Founded in 1533 by the Spanish, it is nestled on 

the Caribbean coast and is a joy to visit and 

explore. Historically fascinating, this walled city 

was once a major gateway to South America, 

used as a centre to store the riches plundered 

from the interior of the continent and as a 

hub for slave trading, which in turn meant it 

became a magnet for pirates and buccaneers. 

46 

Today, observing its beautiful cobbled streets with 

their brightly coloured buildings with balconies 

brimming with flowers – some of the best 

preserved examples of colonial architecture in 

South America – you’ll feel like you’re taking a 

step back in time. The city’s port, fortress and 

monuments have deservedly been declared a 

UNESCO World Heritage Site. A sultry climate 

and coastal breeze adds to the romanticism of 

this wonderful cultural gem where the past and 

present collide in a lively and multicultural mix. 


A rugged, tropical paradise, Tayrona National Park 

is carved out of equatorial rainforest at the edge 

of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain 


range. The wild and untouched jungle here is 

one of the most biologically diverse in the 

region, home to over 200 species of bird and a 

huge variety of mammals and reptiles, including 

jaguars and monkeys. Located just over 140 

kilometres from the colonial city of Cartagena, 

the palm-fringed white sand beaches of Tayrona 

National Park are wild and untouched with 

massive sea-sculpted boulders sitting in its 

turquoise waters. This area is a peaceful place to 

get away from it all and experience a natural 

wonderland on Colombia’s most picturesque 

stretch of coastline. Accommodation here is in 

the fine Tayrona Eco Habs, a selection of 

individual thatched huts perched on the edge 

of the forest overlooking the Caribbean sea.

Local lady, Cartagena 

Beach, Providencia Island 

Popayán & San Augustin 

Located in southern Colombia is the town of 

Popayán, bedecked with whitewashed colonial 

architecture. A university city, founded in 1537, 

it has a youthful energy and is famous 

throughout Colombia for its wild and colourful 

street celebrations during Easter week. Several 

hours by road from Popayán is the little town 

of San Agustín which is close to the ‘Valley of 

the Statues’, an archaeological site dating from 

pre-Conquest times. 

Amacayacu National Park 

Amacayacu National Park in the Amazon 

rainforest is home to an extraordinary array of 

wildlife and is an ideal setting to observe 

nature’s exoticism up close. Here you can find 

over 450 bird species, an array of monkeys 

including the world’s smallest, six species of 

crocodile and the world’s largest fresh water 

turtle. This incredible region is accessible by 

boat an hour from the town of Leticia. 

Caribbean Islands 

The Caribbean islands of San Andrés and 

Providencia, located 480 kilometres off the 

northern coast of Colombia, offer alternative, 

simple beachside guesthouses with beautiful 

white-sand beaches and good diving 

opportunities. 








Please call one of our Colombia specialists to 

start planning your itinerary. 

Telephone: 01993 838 683 


Travelling around the main areas of Colombia is 

fairly straightforward, all places are accessible by 

short internal flights and we try to use interesting 

road trips where possible. We do not use any of 

the road crossings to adjacent countries, but 

Bogotá has good international flight connections 

with its South American neighbours. 

When to go 


✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ 





The climate of Colombia does not vary much 

throughout the year, although on average the 

driest months are December to February. This 

time coincides with when Colombians themselves 

take their holidays so accommodation tends to 

be busier and more expensive. 



Prices 



prices for your trip to Colombia on our website, 



Maria del Carmen church, Bogotá 

Cartagena 

Armenia 

Classic Colombia 

This tour takes in the main highlights of Colombia 

at a comfortable pace, on a route that is fairly well 

established despite the infancy of tourism in the 

country. Combining city life, wonderful countryside 

retreats and the Caribbean coast, this itinerary 

captures the true spirit of Colombia. 

Day 1 Fly from the UK to Bogotá. 

Day 2 Tour of La Candelaria, the historical 

centre of Bogotá. 

Day 3 Travel by road to Villa de Leyva via 

the Salt Cathedral at Zipaquirá. 

Day 4 Time to explore Villa de Leyva on 

foot, and maybe some of the 

surrounding countryside on 

horseback. 

Day 5 Travel by road back to Bogotá and fly 

to Armenia in the heart of the coffee 

region, where you will stay in a 

traditional finca. 

Day 6 Take a tour around the towns and 

coffee plantations of this region. 

Day 7 Free day to relax in your finca. 

Day 8 Travel back to Armenia and fly to 

Cartagena. 

Day 9 Enjoy a guided walking tour of the 

walled centre of Cartagena. 

Day 10 At leisure to further explore the city 

and surroundings, or just to relax and 

soak up the atmosphere. 

Day 11 Take a drive along the Caribbean 

coast to Tayrona National Park. 

Days 12-13 Free time to explore Tayrona 

National Park whilst staying in 

beachside accommodation. 

Day 14 Fly to Bogotá and connect with your 

international flight home. 


Stay longer 

Villa de 

Leyva 

Bogotá 


Extend your trip from the coffee region up to 

Colombia’s second city, Medellín. Alternatively get 

off the beaten track and fly to Popoyán in the 

south of the country to visit the statues and ruins 

at San Augustín. 

www.audleytravel.com/colombia ● 01993 838 683 ● Colombia 47

Venezuela 

Vast and little-visited, Venezuela 

is a beautiful country that 

stretches from the snow-capped Andes 

of the west down to the vast jungles 

of the Orinoco Delta and from the 

flat-topped ‘Lost World’ mountains 

of the south to palm-fringed beaches 

along its Caribbean coast. In fact, 

Venezuela has the longest stretch of 

Caribbean coastline of any single 

nation and the gorgeous beaches here 

and on its offshore islands make the 

country worth a visit alone. It is 

this north of the country where the 

majority of the population lives, most 

of the rest of the country sees nature 

firmly in charge. Venezuela is home 

to the some of the most unique 

landscapes on the planet including 

South America’s largest lake, the 

world’s highest waterfall and, for a 

different type of natural beauty, the 

most winners of the Miss World and 

Miss Universe contests. 

Angel Falls 

48 

2 

1 

3 

5 

6 

4 

Los Llanos 

Experience some of the best 

bird and wildlife spotting 

opportunities in South America 

in these vast grasslands. 

1 4 Orinoco Delta 

2 Mérida 

The university city of Mérida 

offers great scenic outdoor 

activities such as trekking, 

mountain biking, paragliding and 

birdwatching in the surrounding 

Andean countryside. 

3 Los Roques 

An archipelago of stunning 

white sandy beaches and simple 

accommodation with a laid-back 

Caribbean feel. 

Anteater, Los Llanos 

A beautiful rainforest where 

visitors can gain an insight into 

the traditional ways of life of 

the Warao Indians. 

Los Roques 

5 Angel Falls 

The highest waterfall in the 

world, 12 times the height of 

Niagara Falls with a single drop 

of 978 metres. 

6 Gran Sabana 

This vast table top mountain 

landscape is Venezuela’s largest 

national park and was the 

inspiration for Conan Doyle’s 

‘The Lost World’.

Caracas 

Bordered to the north by the wooded peaks of 

the Avila National Park, the city of Caracas is 

Venezuela’s capital and gateway to the country. 

Although the city has a gritty reputation, with 

extremes of poverty and, mainly oil-produced, 

wealth standing side by side, it is a predominantly 

modern, fast-paced and cosmopolitan city with 

a great culinary reputation, some interesting 

museums and endless shopping and nightlife 

options. Most visitors use the city as a starting 

point or hub for their travels along the Caribbean 

coast, or south to the country’s centre. 

Angel Falls and Canaima 

The world’s highest waterfall is an astounding 

sight with its water tumbling off the precipice for 

a sheer drop of 978 metres. Located in the rural 

southeast of the country in the middle of 

Canaima National Park, it says much about its 

remoteness that this incredible natural wonder 

was only reported in the 1930s, by American 

pilot Jimmy Angel who crash-landed here while 

looking for gold. So great is the impact of the 

water thundering into its basin in the pristine 

jungle, that the mists created can be felt a mile 

away. The Angel Falls feeds many tributaries of 

the River Carrao, which in turn flows into the 

vast Canaima Lagoon. It is on the shores of this 

lagoon that most lodges are situated, providing a 

base to visit the waterfall and the surrounding 

area. Even now, there is no land access, the Angel 

Falls can only be reached by motorised canoe up 

the River Carrao or by a spectacular light-aircraft 

overflight, making the experience something of 

an adventure. 

WAKU LODGE, CANAIMA 

Waku Lodge has the best location of all the 

lodges in Canaima, situated right on the banks 

of the tanin coloured Canaima Lagoon with a 

spectacular view of the El Hacha, Golondrina and 

Ucaima waterfalls. The surrounding gardens are 

beautifully sculpted and are home to various tame 

parrots and macaws. There are only 15 en suite 

rooms all individually decorated in a traditional 

style with air-conditioning, hot water shower and 

semi-private terraces with hammocks. 

Waku Lodge 

ANGEL FALLS BASECAMP 

Close to the base of the Angel Falls are campsites 

that offer an unrivalled location allowing you to 

see the falls at the end of the day and first thing 

in the morning. Facilities are basic and include 

hammocks for sleeping, mosquito nets, flush 

toilets and outdoor cold water showers. 

Gran Sabana 

Gran Sabana (‘Great Plain’) is part of Venezuela’s 

biggest protected national park and where you’ll 

find one of South America’s most extraordinary 

settings. Giant waterfalls cascade into lagoons, 

some of whose waters are an incredible red, 

coloured by the wealth of minerals they contain, 

and edged with pink quartz sand. Giant sweeping 

prairies are punctuated by imposing table-top 

mountains, such as Mount Roraima, considered 

one of the oldest geological formations on earth. 

Ideally visited on three or four day safaris by jeep, 

you can witness these magnificent, surreal 

mountains best by camping in the vast wilderness. 

Roraima can be climbed over the course of a 

challenging six-day trek. 

Gran Sabana 

Mérida 

Surrounded by Venezuela’s highest snow-capped 

peaks, the lively university city of Mérida is at the 

centre of the country’s Andean region. It is an 

attractive city with a gentle, friendly atmosphere, 

steep streets and some enchanting colonial 

buildings. The surrounding countryside varies 

between highland moors, beautiful glacial lakes 

and tropical forests. You can visit small, traditional 

villages, where life still proceeds at the gradual 

pace of a climbing donkey eking an existence 

from the sheer mountain slopes. Currently, one 

of Mérida’s major attractions, the world’s highest 

and second longest cable car is closed, but the 

city still offers the outdoor enthusiast superb 

walking, mountain biking, horse riding, white 

water rafting, paragliding and birdwatching in 

the surrounding Andean countryside. 

Audley in Venezuela 

Few travellers visit Venezuela – that’s a 

key part of its appeal – but this does make 

the experience something of a challenge. 

The tourism infrastructure is not very 

well-developed, and over recent years the 

government has shown little interest in 

getting more involved, which has led to no 

improvement in service or facilities. You’ll 

also find that, outside Caracas, English is 

rarely spoken, so it’s important when 

exploring Venezuela to ensure your plans are 

arranged carefully and that is where we 

come in. Our specialists know the country 

well, and can create an itinerary that will 

enable you to see the parts that match your 

interests in the best available comfort, and 

with the best available guides. At the time of 

going to press the political situation in 

Venezuela was somewhat volatile, and even 

though visitor areas are rarely affected, we 

always keep abreast of current developments 

and will be able to advise of any 

noteworthy developments. 

Accommodation 

Venezuela has some good accommodation 

but this is limited to Caracas, Los Roques and 

a few lodges around Canaima. Many of the 

hotels on the Venezuelan mainland are now 

state-owned which has resulted in a dip in 

the service and food standards. The posadas 

we use on Los Roques are still under 

independent or foreign ownership at the 

time of writing, and the service levels here 

are more in line with international 

expectations. Outside of the aforementioned 

centres accommodation is often basic and 

very little English is spoken but, as with 

Venezuela as a whole, the stunning 

location and environment makes up for 

these shortcomings. 

Find out more 


information about travel in Venezuela, please 

see page 51. 

☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Venezuela 


Venezuela 49

Scarlet ibis, Los Llanos 

Los Llanos 

A marvellous place for wildlife spotting, Los 

Llanos is a vast, seasonally flooded savannah that 

spreads across Venezuela’s heartland towards the 

Colombian border. Flat and fertile, it rivals Brazil’s 

Pantanal for biodiversity but with far fewer 

visitors. Five national parks protect wildlife that 

ranges from anteaters to anacondas, as well as a 

spectacular variety of birds, monkeys, big cats, 

river dolphins, caiman and capybara. 

HATO EL CEDRAL, LOS LLANOS 

Hato El Cedral is a working cattle ranch in the 

heart of Los Llanos. It offers fantastic wildlife and 

birdlife viewing opportunities on its land as well as 

Turquoise waters of Los Roques 

50 

insight into the lives of the Llaneros. There are 25 

air-conditioned, simply furnished en suite rooms, 

all in cabin style buildings. El Cedral has a small 

swimming pool and the kitchen produces 

traditional Llanos dishes - you may even get to try 

capybara! Twice a day you will be taken out on 

wildlife excursions either by motorboat down the 

river or by safari-style truck across the plains with 

native and English speaking guides. 

Los Roques 

Only a 30 minute flight from Caracas the white 

sands and azure waters of Los Roques make a 

perfect place to start or end your trip. The 

shallow, turquoise seas are a fantastic spot for 

relaxing, diving, snorkelling, sailing and fishing for 

bonefish. None of the 350 islands are populated 

except for Gran Roque, the main island, where 

you can stay in a charming whitewashed 

guesthouse or posada. The family owners will 

look after you, cook beautifully prepared seafood 

meals and take you to nearby beaches. 

LA CIGALA, GRAN ROQUE 

The simple La Cigala has nine comfortable 

rooms with ceiling fans and hot showers. The 

posada is about 50 metres from the sea and has 

a beautiful open kitchen-diner, adjacent lounge 

area and an ample rooftop terrace ideal for 

watching the sunset. 

POSADA MEDITERRANEO, 

GRAN ROQUE 

This lovely quaint posada, with only seven rooms, 

is Italian owned. It is typically Mediterranean in 

style with whitewashed walls, wooden shutters, 

tiled floors and a great roof terrace. The rooms 

are all en suite, with air-conditioning and are 

thoughtfully decorated. 

Paría Peninsula 

Only a short flight from Caracas but less visited 

than Los Roques, the Paría Peninsula is a totally 

unspoilt, lush area of palm-forested hills and long, 

sheltered golden beaches backed by banana and 

cacao plantations. Its calm, clear, warm seas are 

perfect for swimming, fishing or simply relaxing. 

Almost a third of the bird species recorded in 

Venezuela can be found here, including the native 

scissor-tailed hummingbird. The simple posada 

style accommodation offers a more affordable 

option than the better known Los Roques. 

POSADA PLAYA DE UVA 

This small beachside posada has ten rooms and 

six villas, all a short walk from the small, generally 

deserted, beach of Playa de Uva. The larger 

beaches of Playa Medina and Playa Pui Puy can 

easily be accessed by road or sea. The posada is 

able to offer a variety of excursions in the region 

including visits to the nearby cacao plantations.

Warao girls, Orinoco Delta 

Orinoco crocodile, Los Llanos 

Orinoco Delta 

Rivalling the biodiversity of the Amazon and 

the lifeline to an even greater variety of 

indigenous tribes, the great Orinoco River 

threads through Venezuela and spills out into 

the Atlantic through a vast, jungled delta. Far 

less known, and less visited, than its big sister 

river to the south, the Orinoco offers a rare 

opportunity to explore a fragile ecosystem 

and, although wildlife is difficult to spot these 

days, the delta provides a unique chance to 

interact with the local Warao Indians. 

Expeditions start at the pretty riverside town 

of Ciudad Bolívar or the larger city of Puerto 

Ordaz, with transport by motorised canoe 

and accommodation is in simple traditional 

thatched huts. 

Canaima Lagoon 








Please call one of our Venezuela specialists to 


Telephone: 01993 838 625 


Venezuela is a vast country and therefore 

travelling by air is the only way to cover the 

distance between the main sights. Patience is 

often key to a successful trip to Venezuela as 

these domestic flights can be a law unto 

themselves with unannounced schedule changes 

occurring regularly. Where road transfers can be 

undertaken these are by comfortable 4x4 vehicles 

although English-speaking drivers can be difficult 

to find in many rural locations. 

When to go 


✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ 





Venezuela’s climate is tropical, with wet and dry 

seasons rather than hot and cold, with average 

temperatures primarily affected by altitude. 

The wet season runs between May and October 

where sunny days give way to afternoon 

downpours. This is the best time to visit if the 

Angel Falls is on your itinerary as water levels 

will be at their highest. Travelling around the 

remainder of the country can be equally 

rewarding at any time of the year and the 

Caribbean coast tends to miss much of the 

inland rainfall. 

Time difference: GMT-4.5 hours 


Prices 



prices for your trip to Venezuela on our website, 



Anaconda, Los Llanos 

Los Llanos 

Classic Venezuela 

Immerse yourself in the best that Venezuela has 

to offer in an adventurous trip that will see you 

travel the breadth of the country. Take in Los 

Llanos for some fantastic wildlife viewing, the 

breathtaking Angel Falls and slow the pace down 

at the end for some time relaxing on the shores 

of the Caribbean. 

Day 1 Fly from the UK to Caracas. 

Day 2 Fly to Barinas, transfer by road to 

your accommodation in the vast 

Los Llanos. 

Days 3-4 Excursions to spot the wildlife in 

Los Llanos. 

Day 5 Fly to Puerto Ordaz, via Caracas, 

where you will spend one night. 

Day 6 Fly to Canaima, your base for 

explorations of the ‘Lost World’ 

tepuis of the Gran Sabana and Angel 

Falls. Afternoon tour of the lagoon. 

Day 7 Take a scenic flight over Angel Falls 

(weather permitting). 

Day 8 Enjoy an optional full day trip by 

motorised canoe to the base of 

Angel Falls (weather permitting). 

Day 9 Fly to Caracas and then on to Los 

Roques in the Caribbean. 

Days 10-12 Relax, snorkel or sunbathe on the 

beautiful beaches of Los Roques. 

Day 13 Fly back to Caracas to connect with 

your international flight. 


Stay longer 

Islas Los Roques 

Caracas 

Canaima 

Puerto 

Ordaz 

Divert from Los Llanos to the university city of 

Mérida in the Andes, the perfect base for trekking 

and other outdoor activities, or you could include 

a few nights in the Orinoco Delta to gain an insight 

into the life of Warao Indians. Alternatively, try a 

different beach stop on the Paría Peninsula, home 

to long sandy beaches and cacao plantations. 

www.audleytravel.com/venezuela ● 01993 838 625 ● Venezuela 51

Guyana, Suriname & French Guiana 

Squeezed in between Venezuela 

and Brazil on the Caribbean 

coast is the small English-speaking 

country of Guyana and its 

neighbours of Suriname and French 

Guiana. These countries are a delight 

for the intrepid traveller and those 

who want to visit genuinely 

untouched wilderness and experience 

a unique melting pot of cultures. 

The countries are diverse, with 

official languages of English, Dutch 

and French combined with Asian, 

African and Creole influences and 

flavours. They are packed with 

appeal, yet scarcely visited, and to 

take a journey here is really to take 

a step into uncharted territory. 

The natural world is the key 

attraction; from virgin rainforest 

to rolling savannah, not to mention 

spectacular birdlife and mammals 

that include giant river otters and 

jaguar. There is much to explore in 

this remote corner of the continent. 

Emerald tree boa 

52 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

1 Kaieteur Falls, Guyana 

A breathtaking sheet of water, 

the Potaro River pours over 

a sheer drop of over 230 

metres (five times the height 

of Niagara). 

2 Surama, Guyana 

Deep in the rainforest, visit 

the home of an Amerindian 

community of the Macushi tribe, 

now a thriving and awardwinning 

eco-tourism initiative. 

3 Rupununi Savannah, 

Guyana 

Explore these wildlife-rich 

grasslands by boat or 

horseback and hear fascinating 

‘outback’ tales. 

Golden frog 

Giant otter 

4 Galibi Nature Reserve, 

Suriname 

See the spectacle of hundreds 

of turtles coming ashore to lay 

eggs, or watch the resulting 

baby turtles head to the sea 

for the first time. 

5 Space Centre, Kourou, 

French Guiana 

Take a tour of the launch base 

of the European Space Agency, 

it is from here that the Ariane 

and Soyuz rockets have lifted off.

Georgetown, Kaieteur Falls 

and Orinduik Falls 

The capital of Georgetown will usually be the 

place to start and end your trip to Guyana. It is 

the only settlement of size in the country and is a 

relaxed, tropical place with picturesque areas of 

white wooden 19th century houses on stilts. 

From here you can fly into the heart of Guyana’s 

forested interior where, backed by the Pakaraima 

mountains, Kaieteur Falls is a particularly aweinspiring 

spectacle. The lush surroundings of the 

falls are home to flora and fauna including tank 

bromeliads, golden frogs and the cock-of-the-rock 

bird. Further south, Orinduik Falls are very 

different; the wide Ireng river roars over a series 

of steppes and terraces, leaving behind natural 

fizzing pools where you can take a dip. 

Surama, Iwokrama and the 

Central Rainforest 

Surrounded by savannah, forest and mountains, 

Surama is an isolated and idyllic spot offering 

simple ecolodge accommodation and an insight 

into Macushi tribal life. Activities, led by a member 

of the community and local naturalist guides, 

range from tours of the village to dawn hikes, 

bird-spotting and canoeing along the Burro Burro 

river. Iwokrama, in the central rainforest, is an 

area dedicated to the study of conservation and 

sustainable rainforest development, and offers 

the chance of sighting the elusive jaguar, along 

with other wildlife. 

Rupununi Savannah 

The Rupununi savannah is a vast, seasonally 

flooded plain sandwiched between the Rupununi 

River and the Brazilian border. It is teeming with 

wildlife and a large variety of bird species including 

the elusive harpy eagle. This area is renowned 

for its award-winning conservation projects such 

as those at Karananbu Lodge which welcomes 

guests into simple cabanas. The Karanambu Trust 

has won numerous awards for protecting and 

rehabilitating giant river otters in the area. 

Further south, Guyana’s largest and most remote 

ranch of Dadanawa offers basic accommodation 

and an experience of a real working ranch. 

Alternatively, Maipaima Ecolodge is in Nappi, and 

is a community-run project offering a rewarding 

chance for birdwatching. 

Maipaima Ecolodge, Nappi village, Guyana 

Hooded capuchin monkey, Guyana 

Suriname 

Paramaribo, the lively capital of Suriname, has 

been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site 

thanks to the fusion between European 

(predominantly Dutch) and indigenous South 

American culture and colonial architecture. The 

other main highlight of Suriname is the Galibi 

Nature Reserve which lies approximately 100 

kilometres east along the coast from Paramaribo. 

It is a primary nesting site for four species of 

turtle. Visit between April to July to see 

leatherbacks, olive ridley, green and hawksbill 

turtles come ashore to lay eggs, and miniature 

hatchlings scuttle out to sea in their droves. 

Kaiteur Falls, Guyana 

French Guiana 

Probably the most famous site in French Guiana 

is near Kourou where the European Space 

Agency has its launch site. Guided tours of the 

main installations and the mission control room 

are possible, plus there is a space museum and 

exhibitions. This site, northwest of the capital of 

Cayenne, was chosen by French Prime Minister 

Georges Pompidou in 1965 on the basis of 

criteria including its proximity to the equator. 

This means that rockets benefit from a ‘catapult 

effect’ as a result of the increased speed of the 

Earth’s spin at this point. Another place of interest 

is Devil’s Island. Made famous by prisoner and 

escapee Henri Charrière in his best-selling book 

‘Papillon’, Devil’s Island is the most secure and 

least accessible of the three volcanic islands in 

the notorious convict settlement of Iles du Salut, 

offshore between Cayenne and Kourou. 

Despite their harsh past, the islands’ wild beauty 

wins visitors over these days, and a visit by 

sailboat reveals lush palm-filled slopes and 

rock-strewn beaches. 

Audley in Guyana 

Suriname & French Guiana 

Visitors to Guyana number less than 3,000 

a year, indicating just how far off most 

travellers’ radar it is. However, we take 

particular care to promote ecologically 

sensitive travel in this unspoilt environment. 

Your trip, which will have been planned 

according to your preferences for wildlife 

spotting, adventure and trekking, or just a 

general overview of the region, will make use 

of the range of lodges which are dotted 

throughout the country. Combining Guyana 

with Suriname or French Guiana is done by 

overland transfers across the borders or 

flights between the capital cities. There is 

very little infrastructure that links these 

countries to their giant neighbours of 

Venezuela and Brazil, although air and road 

links are gradually improving. However beach 

breaks in the Caribbean islands of Barbados, 

Trinidad and Tobago, Dominica and St Lucia 

can be arranged either before or after your 

trip. Travelling with a sense of adventure and 

an understanding of the standards of this 

infrastructure will ensure a trip to these 

countries is a great experience. 

Practicalities 

Accommodation options in Guyana are 

limited in that there is generally only one 

place to stay in each location you visit. Many 

of these properties are basic, some without 

electricity, but the focus of a trip to Guyana 

is the country, not the accommodation. 

Getting around is mainly by 4x4, boats and 

light aircraft. Guyana is best avoided during 

the main rainy season from May to July and 

there is also a short rainy season that affects 

Georgetown from December to January. In 

Suriname, the major rains fall from April to 

July, but if you are keen to see the turtles 

hatching, you need to visit during this time. 

Find out more 


information about travel in Guyana, Suriname 

and French Guiana, please see our website. 

☎ 






Discuss your plans with our specialists 

01993 838 605 

Guyana, Suriname & French Guiana 53

The Caribbean 

The Caribbean is famous for its 

wonderful sandy beaches, sunny 

climate, warm seas and relaxed pace 

of life. Due to its proximity, a number 

of travellers consider the region for a 

relaxing start or finish to their South 

America trip. The islands vary in 

terms of the scenery, atmosphere and 

hotel options, but one thing for sure is 

they are guaranteed to offer a friendly 

welcome. Whether you decide to sit on 

the beach for the length of your stay or 

prefer to break up the relaxing with 

some activities such as snorkelling or 

diving in crystal clear waters that 

host shoals of fish and turtles, the 

Caribbean is a perfect unwinding 

accompaniment to your South 

America adventure. 

Beach, Tobago 

54 

6 

1 

5 

3 

2 

4 

Aruba, Bonaire 

and Curaçao 

The easiest islands to get to 

from South America, ideal for 

a few days of relaxation. 

1 5 Dominica 

2 Trinidad & Tobago 

Unspoilt and incredibly relaxed. 

3 St Lucia 

A picturesque island, with its twin 

volcanic peaks soaring above the 

golden sand and azure waters. 

4 Barbados 

A favourite of the British for 

many years, an island with 

wonderful hotels. 

Diving in the Caribbean 

Known as the ‘Nature Isle’, a 

largely unspoilt and lush island. 

6 Dominican Republic 

Great beaches with a 

mixture of lively resorts and 

quiet getaways. 

The Bahamas 

Columbus is believed to have 

made his first landing on one 

of these 29 beautiful islands in 

1492 (not shown on map).

Willemstad, Curaçao 

Aruba, Bonaire & Curaçao 

Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao are the major islands 

that make up the archipelago formerly known as 

the Dutch Antilles. All offer year round sunshine 

and good beaches, mixed with a charm that 

comes from their melting pot heritage of 

indigenous inhabitants, Dutch colonialists and 

African slaves. 

Bonaire is currently the most easily accessible 

island for visitors to South America as it 

is a stopover on KLM transatlantic flights to 

Ecuador. It has a consistently warm climate with 

temperatures averaging 28C year round, there is 

little rainfall and humidity is low. As well as a great 

place to relax on a beach and do nothing, Bonaire 

is a good destination for scuba diving and 

snorkelling. The clear waters off the island’s coast 

have been declared a marine park, preserving the 

reefs in pristine condition, and colourful marine 

life is abundant. Should airline schedules change 

then we can recommend hotels and excursions 

available on either Aruba, or on Curaçao, which 

perhaps has the most colonial charm. 

Fishing boats, St Lucia 

Bonaire 

Other Caribbean islands 

All the islands mentioned have been chosen due 

to their flight links with South America. Close to 

the coast of Venezuela are the colourful and laidback 

islands of Trinidad and Tobago, where there 

are many picturesque bays, fabulous beaches, and 

a year-round carnival atmosphere. Barbados offers 

luxurious hotels and high quality restaurants 

alongside coral sand beaches and warm turquoise 

waters. St Lucia’s reputation as the Caribbean’s 

most scenic island is well-founded, it has a lush 

tropical landscape, turquoise bays and soaring 

volcanic peaks along with pristine white beaches 

in the north and black volcanic sands in the south. 

Dominica is regarded as one of the most unspoilt 

islands in terms of its natural beauty with tropical 

forests and coral reefs teeming with marine life, 

not to be confused with the Dominican Republic 

which offers good hotels, nightlife and pearly 

white beaches. Finally the many islands of the 

Bahamas, lying close to the Florida coast, offer 

stunning beaches and a wide variety of 

accommodation options. 

Audley in the Caribbean 

Whilst the Atlantic and Caribbean coasts 

of mainland South America offer the visitor 

some wonderful beaches, particularly in 

Brazil, Venezuela and Colombia, the long 

Pacific coast does not have much, if anything, 

in the way of places to relax with more-orless 

guaranteed sunshine and warm seas. 

Time in the Caribbean is therefore often 

considered for rest and relaxation after a trip 

around South America. 

We do not offer a full range of 

accommodation and excursions in the 

Caribbean. We also do not specialise in two 

week beach packages to the islands featured 

on these pages. Most of our clients choose 

to travel to the Caribbean as an extension to 

their South America trip. This is where we 

come in as we are able to make use of a 

wide range of airlines to enable convenient 

connections to your chosen island. 


Flight connections between South America 

and the Caribbean are continually 

improving, although it is not always as easy 

as one might expect given their close 

proximities. There are very few direct 

flights between destinations but there are 

convenient connections via Central America 

and the USA. 

Aruba, Bonaire, Curaçao, Trinidad and 

Tobago lie outside of the Caribbean 

hurricane belt and are thus all year-round 

destinations, whereas all other islands tend 

to be best avoided during hurricane season 

from August to October. 

Find out more 

The Caribbean islands featured on these 

pages are best combined with trips to 

Peru, Ecuador & the Galapagos, Colombia, 

Venezuela and Guyana. For information on 

these destinations please consult the 

relevant pages of this brochure. Our 

specialists for these countries will be best 

placed to make plans for your Caribbean 

extension. 

Caribbean 55

Central America, Mexico & Cuba 

Central America, Mexico and 

Cuba – a fascinating region of 

breathtaking landscapes, spectacular 

wildlife, steamy jungles, turquoise 

waters lapping against white sand 

beaches and pristine coral reefs. 

Throw in ancient ruins entwined in 

tropical forests, crumbling colonial 

architecture, traditional indigenous 

markets and a relentless passion for 

music then you have a region that 

offers something for everyone. These 

countries are all linked to some degree 

by their histories, but each has forged 

its own distinct identity making 

this part of the world a colourful 

and unique destination. We have a 

dedicated brochure and team of 

specialists that cover this region in 

depth either as an accompaniment to 

your South America adventure or as 

a trip within its own right. 

Keel-billed toucan, Costa Rica 

56 

1 

2 

Copper Canyon, Mexico 

Take a train journey deep into 

this remote and wild part of 

the country. 

1 3 Lake Atitlán, Guatemala 

2 Oaxaca, Mexico 

A charming colonial city, and 

nearby are ancient ruins, Indian 

cultures and dramatic scenery. 

3 

4 

5 

With a backdrop of three 

towering volcanoes, the lake 

views are breathtaking and the 

shores are dotted with 

traditional, colourful villages. 

4 Tikal, Guatemala 

Fascinating Mayan ruins in a 

stunning jungle setting. 

6 

10 

7 

9 

8 

5 The Atolls, Belize 

The world’s second longest 

barrier reef is teeming with 

marine life. 

6 Arenal Volcano, 

Costa Rica 

The region’s most active volcano, 

and a place to go zip-lining and 

enjoy canopy walkways. 

7 

Osa Peninsula, 

Costa Rica 

A tranquil and remote part of 

the country with spectacular 

opportunities for wildlife viewing. 

8 San Blas Islands, Panama 

This idyllic group of over 

400 palm-fringed islands is 

self-governed by the Kuna 

Indians who uphold an intriguing 

cultural tradition. 

9 Panama Canal, Panama 

An incredible feat of engineering. 

Watch the ships squeeze through 

from one ocean to another. 

10 Havana, Cuba 

The capital city and pulsating, 

vibrant heart of the island.

Antigua, Guatemala 

History 

Visitors are reminded of Central America’s rich 

history at every turn. Ancient ruins with remnants 

of the Aztec, Mayan and Toltec civilisations dot 

the continent from northern Mexico through 

Guatemala and Belize and into Honduras. These 

magnificent sites sit alongside well-preserved 

colonial cities and traditional highland market 

towns such as Oaxaca and Mérida in Mexico 

and Antigua in Guatemala. The Spanish influence 

extends further afield with the crumbling cities of 

Granada in Nicaragua, the Casco Viejo in Panama 

City and Havana in Cuba. The region’s unique 

and turbulent modern history also ensures 

intriguing trips to Nicaragua and Cuba. 

Havana, Cuba 

Chichen Itzá, Mexico 

Wildlife 

Costa Rica is a natural and appealing choice for 

wildlife lovers. From mist-shrouded cloudforests 

to tropical rainforests it is a mecca for birdlife and 

numerous mammal, reptile and amphibian species. 

However it is not alone with neighbouring 

Panama offering excellent birdwatching along the 

banks of the Panama Canal and on the slopes of 

volcanoes in the west of the country. For marine 

life, the spectacular coral reefs off the coasts of 

Belize and Honduras offer excellent diving and 

snorkelling opportunities. 

Beaches 

Turquoise waters lapping up against white sand 

beaches are synonymous with the coastlines of 

the Mayan Riviera in Mexico, the cayes off Belize 

and the northern shores of Cuba. Costa Rica 

and Panama also have delightful beaches along 

both the Pacific and Caribbean coastlines making 

them popular extensions to trips to the west 

coast of South America where good beaches 

are in short supply. 

Audley in Central America, 

Mexico and Cuba 

Our knowledge of this region is second to 

none and we are proud to specialise in fully 

tailor-made trips. Some people choose to 

spend their time focusing on one country, 

exploring in depth whilst others prefer to 

visit several in one trip or visit as an 

extension to time in South America. 

Whichever way you choose to discover the 

region we can help you to make the most 

of your time. Our specialists have travelled 

extensively throughout Central America and 

have hand-picked a portfolio of character 

hotels, some wonderful guides and a broad 

range of excursions. We believe their 

enthusiasm and in-depth knowledge is 

reflected in our dedicated Central America, 

Mexico & Cuba brochure. 


Accommodation in Central America varies 

greatly from country to country and there 

are endless options. We work with the 

regions’ most progressive ecolodges, simple 

B&Bs, some charming colonial properties and 

luxury hotels which are selected to match 

your personal requirements. The region is 

best visited between December and April 

when days tend to be sunny and rainfall low. 

Many Central American countries lie in the 

Caribbean ‘hurricane belt’ and, whilst there 

are numerous local variances, you should 

consult our specialists when considering a 

trip between June and October. 

Central America brochure 

For your copy of our 

Central America, 

Mexico and Cuba 

brochure, please call 

our specialists on 

01993 838 638. 

Find out more 


information about travel in Central America 

please see our website. 

☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Central 

America specialists 01993 838 638 

Central America 57

Brazil 

I mmense in size and offering a veritable 

wealth of experiences, this South 

American giant provides a delightfully 

heady mix of natural spectacles, vibrant 

cities, intoxicating music and picture 

postcard beaches. It is a burgeoning 

country, currently investing heavily in its 

infrastructure for the forthcoming Olympic 

Games and the World Cup, whilst forging 

58 

its own place on the political and economic 

world stage. Brazil is a scintillating place 

that surpasses all expectations; the smiling 

barefoot boys skillfully playing football on 

the beach, the colours and sounds of its 

famous cities and the steamy expanses of 

emerald rainforest are all here, and with so 

much more besides. From the roar of the 

thundering Iguaçu waterfalls to the cobbled 

streets of charming colonial towns of the 

northeast, from the Pantanal wetlands and 

Amazon basin teeming with wildlife to 

deserted sandy beaches, Brazil is a 

geographically, ethnically and culturally 

diverse country. With the rythmical 

soundtrack of a samba or a bossa nova, and 

with a caipirinha in hand, jump in and 

immerse yourself in the wonder that is Brazil.

2 Paraty 

A charming town whose 

cobbled streets are lined with 

pretty whitewashed colonial 

buildings, many of which house 

cafes, restaurants, boutiques 

and art galleries. 

3 Iguaçu Falls 

The stunning horseshoe of 275 

individual waterfalls straddling the 

Brazilian and Argentinian border. 

4 Amazon River 

Possibly the most famous river 

on earth and certainly the 

largest in terms of water volume, 

the vast Amazon River winds for 

miles through Brazilian tropical 

rainforest and is a life source 

for the wildlife and people that 

live nearby. 

4 

3 

1 Rio de Janeiro 

5 Ouro Preto 

9 Trancoso 

A vibrant buzzing city, with A gorgeous colonial town in One of Brazil`s most stylish 

the iconic sites of Christ the the hills, with many churches beach retreats that has kept 

Redeemer and Sugar Loaf lavishly decorated in the gold the feel of a quaint local village, 

Mountain, as well as the that was mined here during the Trancoso offers a number of 

fabulous beaches of 

18th century. 

charming pousadas plus miles 

Copacabana and Ipanema. 

6 Pantanal 

of deserted palm-lined beach. 

Great for wildlife lovers, 

Carnival 

residents of this vast region 

include caiman, anteater, giant 

river otter, capybara and many 

species of bird. 

The biggest party on earth. 

7 Salvador 

An atmospheric city in the 

northeast of Brazil, rich in 

Portuguese and African history, 

with a beautiful colonial centre. 

Great food and music on 

every corner. 

8 Lençóis Maranhenses 

Huge sand dunes sweep 

down to turquoise fresh 

water lagoons. Still off the 

beaten track, it is well worth 

making the effort to get here 

to explore. 

6 

2 

8 

5 

1 

Rio Carnival 

9 

7 

Audley in Brazil 

There are different schools of thought when 

it comes to travelling to Brazil. Some visitors 

want to make the most of the country in one 

visit, and therefore see the main highlights 

such as Rio, Iguaçu, the Amazon and 

Salvador. Doing this entails many hours of 

flying over this vast country but for the visitor 

who does not plan to return to Brazil then it 

is a worthwhile endeavour. The other idea is 

to break Brazil up into different regions, and 

concentrate on a particular area, such as the 

south, or the northeast. Our specialists, who 

have all travelled around the country, will be 

able to advise on the best trip for you and 

give honest opinions on the many sights that 

Brazil has to offer. We are also able to 

ensure that the trip is as adventurous, 

relaxed, luxurious or simple as suits you best. 

Accommodation 

Brazil has a wealth of fine accommodation, 

from luxury five star properties to charming 

‘pousadas’ (small family-run properties similar 

to bed and breakfasts, usually in renovated 

colonial buildings) and some lovely beach 

resorts dotted along the many miles of 

fabulous coastline. Where possible, we like to 

make use of the character properties rather 

than the chain hotels, and we return regularly 

to inspect them to ensure standards remain 

high. Outside of the main visitor areas 

standards of accommodation can be lower. 

Manaus’ Opera House 

Find out more 


information about travel in Brazil, please 


☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Brazil 


Brazil 59

Rio de Janeiro 


The cariocas (residents of Rio) have a saying that 

God created the world in seven days, the eighth 

he devoted to Rio de Janeiro. As you stand on 

top of the Sugar Loaf Mountain at sunset, with 

the city curling its way around the granite peaks, 

forests and golden beaches below you, and with 

the iconic statue of Christ the Redeemer, arms 

aloft, watching over you from Corcovado, you 

may be inclined to agree. 

The sheer beauty and vibrancy of Rio is 

breathtaking. It is a city that will keep you busy 

and probably tire you out, whether you are 

exploring Tijuca, the world’s largest urban forest, 

relaxing with the locals on the golden sands of 

Copacabana or Ipanema or taking the rickety 

tram to bohemian Santa Teresa district. You 

could also take in a football game amid the singing 

and drumming of the huge crowds at the mighty 

Maracanã, explore one of the city’s ‘favelas’ 

(shanty towns) with one of our specialist guides, 

or wander around the Museum of Contemporary 

Art in Niteroi, housed in a voluptuous building 

which the architect claims was inspired by all 

that is famous in Rio. 

At night the city doesn't sleep, with great options 

for relaxed live music and samba shows plus a 

host of world class restaurants serving fine 

Brazilian and international cuisine. 

60 

Copacabana Palace, Rio de Janeiro 

ACCOMMODATION IN RIO 

Rio has a hotel to suit every taste and budget. 

Copacabana and Ipanema are the most popular 

areas in which to stay, offering a selection of 

three to five star beachfront hotels. These districts 

also offer exclusive accommodation options. The 

most famous of which is, without doubt, the 

Copacabana Palace, an art-deco landmark on 

Copacabana Beach. For a more modern twist, the 

Phillipe Starck-designed Fasano in Ipanema is the 

epitome of high fashion and modern lines. 

Heading away from the beaches into the 

historic Santa Teresa area, there are a selection 

of charming boutique hotels. We particularly 

like the Santa Teresa Hotel with its wonderful 

views over downtown Rio to Botafogo Bay. 

We can also offer private, fully serviced 

apartments across Rio with some of the best 

views the city can offer. They make ideal options 

for family holidays or travel with a small group 

of friends. 

HOMESTAYS IN RIO 

Staying in the home of a carioca gives an 

authentic taste of Rio and we can match your 

host to your interests. A local organisation has 

created a network of Rio professionals who rent 

out rooms in their homes on a bed and breakfast 

basis. Properties are scattered across the city and, 

whilst accommodation is relatively simple, the 

experience is rich. 

Santa Teresa Hotel, Rio de Janeiro

Rio Carnival Copacabana beach, Rio de Janeiro 

Mosaic staircase, Santa Teresa 

Around Rio de Janeiro 

Rio de Janeiro is an excellent starting point from 

which to get out and explore the surrounding 

countryside. A couple of hours north from Rio 

you are soon surrounded by Atlantic rainforest, 

the perfect environment for walking and trekking 

and one of the best places in Brazil for 

birdwatching. An excellent option is the Serra dos 

Órgãos National Park, famous for its organ pipe 

like rock formations, and nearby the Serra dos 

Tucanos birding lodge which has recorded over 

200 species of bird in its grounds alone. 

Serra dos Tucanos 

Favela, Rio de Janeiro Copacabana beach, Rio de Janeiro 

Carnival 

Some of the most striking and colourful 

images of Brazil are taken during its world 

renowned Carnival, which takes place every 

year in the build up to Lent. Carnival time is 

an opportunity for Brazil to let its hair down 

and take to the streets to enjoy the dancing 

and music it is so well known for. For the 

international visitor it is an eye opening and 

somewhat frenetic collision of colours and 

sounds, of scantily-clad Brazilian bodies and 

ice cold beer. 

The biggest celebrations take place in Rio, 

where thousands of brightly-coloured feather 

and sequin clad dancers samba their way 

through the parade ground of the 

Sambadrome to the intoxicating beat of 

drums, whistles and the ‘whoops’ of the 

crowd. Rio is the place for the grandest 

costumes and most impressive parades but 

for a more participatory and perhaps 

authentic experience of Carnival, the 

northeast towns of Salvador, Olinda and 

Recife come alive at this time of year. Visitors 

can immerse themselves in the action, joining 

the crowds of revellers that stream through 

the streets following huge papier mache 

heads, samba bands and ‘Trio Electricos’ – 

huge floats covered in speakers carrying some 

of Brazil’s most famous live bands and singers. 

Carnival celebrations tend to last for about 

a week and there is little respite from the 

festivities, especially in the northeast. We also 

recommend the Winners’ Parade which takes 

place in Rio the weekend after Carnival itself, 

featuring the winning samba groups from the 

previous week’s parades. It offers a wonderful 

taste of the vibrant colours and sounds of 

Carnival without the same levels of intensity. 

www.audleytravel.com/brazil ● 01993 838 610 ● Brazil 61

Paraty and the peaks of the Green Coast’s Atlantic rainforest 

Búzios 

A few hours drive east of Rio, you will come to 

the chic, almost Mediterranean resort of Búzios. 

The town’s cobbled streets echo its past as a 

quiet fishing village, but Búzios was put on the 

map by Brigitte Bardot who stayed here in the 

1960s, and it has since become a lively but 

relaxed place. The town retains a pleasant 

atmosphere, and makes for a good beach 

extension to any visit to Rio. Situated on a small 

peninsula that is scalloped by sandy beaches, you 

can snorkel, scuba, island hop on schooners or 

beach hop on buggies, lie in the sun or make the 

most of the cafes, restaurants and shops. There 

are several lovely hotels and pousadas scattered 

throughout the town. As well as Vila d’Este 

mentioned below we also recommend Pousada 

Casas Brancas, Insólito Boutique Hotel and 

Pousada Corsário. 

Vila d’Este, Búzios 

62 

Typical Paraty architecture 

VILA D’ESTE, BÚZIOS 

Vila d’Este is a small and stylish boutique hotel 

with 14 rooms, only a short distance from the 

bars and restaurants of Búzios. The rooms are 

located around beautifully landscaped gardens, 

overlooking the ocean and the beach, which is 

directly in front of the hotel. The hotel is 

equipped with two small swimming pools, one 

with views out across the Atlantic Ocean. 

Ilha Grande 

Heading west of Rio, the high-rise suburbs give 

way to mile upon mile of white sand beaches 

backed by emerald rainforest covering rolling hills. 

This is Rio state’s ‘Costa Verde’ (Green Coast) 

and is the gateway to the jungle covered island of 

Ilha Grande, a peaceful haven where motor 

vehicles are forbidden and the beaches are divine. 

To compliment these idyllic stretches of coastline, 

the island is dotted with a number of lovely rustic, 

but comfortable, pousadas. 

Paraty 

Travelling west along the coast from Ilha Grande 

will take you to the delightful colonial town of 

Paraty. This peaceful and picturesque town has 

changed little since it was the principal port for 

the gold trade in the colonial era, and the 

cobbled streets and ornate churches are an 

absolute delight to wander around. A couple of 

days here are a perfect way to relax; there are 

bicycle tours heading into the nearby hills, or you 

can board a schooner to take you to one of a 

multitude of small uninhabited islands just off the 

coast. The surrounding waters are very calm and 

excellent for swimming, snorkelling and kayaking.

Havaianas on sale, São Paulo 

Pousada da Marquesa, Paraty 

PARATY’S POUSADAS 

There are several charming little pousadas in 

Paraty that we recommend. All are colonial 

houses that have been tastefully restored yet 

retain plenty of atmospheric period detail. They 

offer elegant accommodation in a friendly and 

relaxed environment, our favourites include the 

Casa Turquesa, Pousada do Sandi, Pousada da 

Marquesa and the Pousada do Ouro. 

View from Pousada Picinguaba 

Fishermen, Búzios 

Beach, Ilha Grande 

Casa Turquesa, Paraty 

POUSADA PICINGUABA, 

NEAR PARATY 

The delightful Pousada Picinguaba is situated 

around half an hour’s drive south of Paraty, on a 

calm and peaceful bay with a long sandy beach, 

at the heart of a tropical coastal forest running 

between Rio and São Paulo. The pousada offers 

ten simple but comfortable rooms, the food is 

excellent and carefully prepared using the best 

local ingredients. There are no TVs or telephones 

as the owners of Picinguaba want you to simply 

relax and enjoy the gorgeous natural surroundings. 

Ilha Grande 

São Paulo 

Whilst not the prettiest city you’ll visit, and 

regrettably suffering internationally from a 

somewhat poor reputation, São Paulo is in fact an 

exciting, vibrant and diverse metropolis. It boasts 

fantastic restaurants and bars, galleries and 

museums, and a wonderful array of first class 

hotels. The Jardim (garden) district is ideal for 

shopping and spending time people-watching in 

the pavement cafes. Some of the sights in the old 

centre include the huge Metropolitan Cathedral, 

the ornate Basilica and São Bento Monastery. The 

city’s largest green area is the Ibirapuera park 

which also houses some excellent galleries and 

museums. São Paulo is of course not without its 

problems, including overcrowding and congestion, 

but if you are a fan of city life, a stay of a night or 

two really shouldn’t be missed. 

São Paulo 


Iguaçu Falls 

Iguaçu Falls 

In the south of the country on the border, 

between Brazil and Argentina, is one of the 

world’s greatest natural phenomena. In the midst 

of a subtropical nature reserve, the earth seems 

to open up and 275 separate falls crash over a 

horseshoe-shaped precipice, nearly five kilometres 

wide and 90 metres high. Spectacular all year 

round, we recommend two nights here to fully 

explore both sides of the falls. 

The network of walkways on the Brazilian side 

provide some wonderful panoramas of this 

powerful show, often framed by rainbows. The 

surrounding vegetation of the park is also home 

to a rich diversity of wildlife species, so while 

marvelling at the breathtaking views you may well 

experience at close quarters an array of birdlife 

and mammals including tapir, capuchin monkey 

and the coatamundi, a relation of the racoon. 

Other activities to enjoy include a boat safari, 

which powers up the river to the base of the 

falls (and sometimes beyond). 

Macuco safari, Iguaçu Falls 

64 

Hotel das Cataratas, Iguaçu 

HOTEL DAS CATARATAS, IGUAÇU 

The only hotel situated inside the Iguaçu National 

Park, the Orient Express-owned Hotel das 

Cataratas has a glorious location just a minute 

away from the falls. Refurbished in 2009, the 

hotel’s 193 rooms and suites are decorated in a 

colonial style and there are fine gardens, terraces 

and two swimming pools. 


FOZ DE IGUAÇU 

Apart from das Cataratas, hotel options on the 

Brazilian side of the falls are somewhat limited. 

There are a couple of simple hotels such as the 

Recanto Park and San Martin properties that are 

an ideal base for explorations, which are located 

close to the Brazilian frontier town of Foz de 

Iguaçu. The Argentinian side of the falls (page 87) 

offers a wider choice of simple, character hotels. 

Minas Gerais 

The beautiful towns of Minas Gerais state are 

testimony to the wealth generated by Brazil’s 

17th and 18th century gold rush. Prospectors 

made their fortune on the gold and diamonds 

found in the area, and poured the money into 

the pockets of artisans who lavishly decorated 

the churches. You will not find finer preserved 

examples of Baroque art and colonial architecture 

anywhere else in Brazil. 

Ouro Preto is a picturesque and well preserved 

town and is a UNESCO World Cultural 

Monument. It is best explored on foot: the steep 

streets and whitewashed colonial houses cling to 

the hillside and at virtually every turn you will 

come across a Baroque church with an 

excessively elaborate interior. 

Another place steeped in history is the sleepy 

town of Tiradentes, whose cobbled streets and 

colonial buildings, many of which are occupied by 

local artists, wind gently down the hill from the 

Santo Antônio church towards the charming 

main square. 

For the more experienced self driver, it is possible 

to explore this area independently. If you have a 

little more time or a particular interest in the 

history of this area, it is also worth heading to the 

delightful town of Diamantina, still a diamondmining 

town today.

Fishing boat, Florianópolis 

Tiradentes 

Solar do Rosário, Ouro Preto 

HOTEL SOLAR DO ROSÁRIO, 

OURO PRETO 

A 19th century house that has been renovated 

into a fine hotel, the friendly Solar do Rosário is 

located by the Church of Nossa Senhora do 

Rosário. We particularly like the suites in the 

main building, which have high ceilings, elegant 

decoration and views of the church. The hotel’s 

outdoor areas are also pleasant, with a number 

of terraces and a small outdoor pool. 

SOLAR DA PONTE, TIRADENTES 

The owners of the Solar da Ponte have created 

a truly exquisite pousada for their guests. The 

rooms are cosy, the grounds are spacious, and 

the afternoon tea served every day is delicious. 

It’s a perfect base from which to explore the 

delightful town of Tiradentes. 

Ouro Preto 

Florianópolis 

In the south of Brazil, Florianópolis, or ‘Floripa’ as 

it is affectionately known, is a city which straddles 

the mainland and the island of Santa Catarina. 

The city’s colonial heart has cobbled streets and 

interesting architecture, as well as a historical 

museum, a cathedral and the municipal market, 

which is not to be missed for its delicious local 

fruits and products. However, the main reason to 

come here is the area’s magnificent beaches 

which are easily accessible from the city centre. 

They are popular for sun seekers (especially in 

January and February when the area does 

become busy) and surfers alike. Many of the 

beaches, however, are isolated and therefore 

relatively deserted. South of Florianopólis on the 

mainland is Praia da Rosa where whale watching 

is possible between July and October when 

southern right whales breed in the bay. 

PONTA DOS GANCHOS, 

NEAR FLORIANÓPOLIS 

Ponta dos Ganchos, is one of Brazil’s most 

luxurious and sophisticated boutique hotels. Its 

25 bungalows are the epitome of elegance and 

comfort and offer guests privacy for total 

relaxation. The homemade meals blend 

traditional Brazilian ingredients with international 

haute cuisine and may be accompanied by a 

selection of wines from an extensive cellar. 

For those looking for some adventure, the hotel 

can organise kayaking and laser dinghy excursions 

or you can just relax on the beach, by the pool 

or in the spa. 

VIDA SOL E MAR, 

NEAR FLORIANÓPOLIS 

Overlooking the wonderful Praia da Rosa, Vida 

Sol e Mar is a laid-back and relaxed family-run 

property. It has a number of bungalows of 

differing sizes that are dotted across the hillside, 

ranging from one bedroom apartments to larger 

accommodation that would suit families. There is 

a small pool and restaurant. A short walk away is 

the soft golden sand of the beach which is 

famous for its surfers. Surfing lessons can be 

arranged from the hotel, as can whale-watching 

trips and packages. 

Walkway from the beach, Ponta dos Ganchos 


66 

Beaches of the Bahian Coast 

The Bahian Coast, stretching from north of 

Salvador to beyond Porto Seguro in the south, 

has a number of excellent beach options for 

every taste and budget. Bahia’s long, palmfringed 

beaches are often isolated and so ideal 

for those looking for an escape and some 

relaxation, but being largely backed by jungle, 

there are also plenty of opportunities for 

excursions and activities. 

TIVOLI PRAIA DO FORTE 

ECO RESORT, PRAIA DO FORTE 

Tivoli Praia do Forte Eco Resort, about an 

hour and a half up the coast from Salvador, 

caters for couples and families and has all you 

need to relax and recharge your batteries 

either at the beginning or the end of your trip. 

The spacious grounds are the perfect place to 

escape and are complimented by an excellent 

spa and swimming pool overlooking the Atlantic. 

A good base to visit some of the ruined Dutch 

fortresses nearby, the resort also caters for 

those with a bit more energy with tennis courts 

and a water sports centre. The village of Praia 

do Forte is a 20 minute walk along the beach, 

and is home to a turtle sanctuary. Turtles are 

bred here for release, and the project aims to 

protect and educate in order to preserve 

these rare creatures. 

Tivoli Praia do Forte Eco Resort 

Beach, Ilha de Boipeba 

POUSADA SANTA CLARA, 

ILHA DE BOIPEBA 

Ilha de Boipeba is a remote and idyllic island, 

an undiscovered paradise next to the better 

known Morro de São Paulo, and can be found 

around four hours from Salvador by ferry and 

car or 30 minutes by small plane. There are no 

roads on the island, only a sandy path for 

tractors, and dozens of alluring and often 

deserted beaches. Pousada Santa Clara is set a 

little way back from the beach and tucked away 

in the fringes of the Atlantic forest that covers 

most of the island. Cobbled paths weaving 

amongst tropical vegetation lead to the 11 

simple rooms, each individually decorated and 

equipped with fans and mosquito nets. The 

pousada’s restaurant serves a truly excellent 

range of typical Bahian cuisine using, where 

possible, locally produced ingredients.

Moorea Master Bungalow, Kiaroa Luxury Resort 

KIAROA LUXURY RESORT, 

MARAÚ PENINSULA 

The Kiaroa Luxury Resort is a beautiful hotel 

located on the stunning Maraú Peninsula, a 30 

minute flight in a small plane from Salvador. 

Its 28 rooms and bungalows are tastefully 

decorated with the work of local artisans and 

some boast private pools. There is an impressive 

spa with a wide range of treatments available for 

complete relaxation. In front of the property the 

golden sand beach is virtually deserted apart 

from other hotel guests, adding to the hotel’s 

feeling of glorious seclusion. There is a wide 

range of activities and excursions that can be 

arranged locally with the reception staff, ranging 

from buggy tours to boating trips. 

TXAI RESORT, ITACARÉ 

Txai Resort is located between the fishing village 

of Itacaré and the city of Ilhéus, home to one of 

Brazil’s literary greats, Jorge Amado. The hotel 

faces a long stretch of golden sand and many 

of its apartments and bungalows overlook the 

palm-fringed sea beyond. With their large 

windows and terraces, the rooms have a 

spacious airy feel, with simple and tasteful 

decoration featuring earthen tones and local 

artwork. The hotel has two restaurants serving a 

range of Bahian delicacies such as shrimp and fish 

dishes stewed in coconut milk. Guests can enjoy 

time at the hotel’s fabulous spa which offers 

wonderful views of the ocean, aromatic baths, 

a sauna, steam room and of course extensive 

massage services. One of the best things about 

the hotel is that, despite having 40 rooms, it has 

managed to maintain the feel of a small boutique 

property. Rooms and communal areas are 

tucked away between the palm trees, no 

building is more than two storeys tall and you’ll 

often have the beach to yourself. 

Itacaré beach 

Pousada Etnia 

Trancoso 

Located just south of the historic town of Porto 

Seguro, this sleepy village is rapidly becoming 

one of the most sought-after beach destinations 

in Brazil. The original fishing village still exists, 

and life there is centred on the main grassy 

square, with its whitewashed 17th century 

church, which claims to have held the first mass 

in Brazil. Stretching away from the village are 

miles of wonderful beaches. 

POUSADA ETNIA, TRANCOSO 

Pousada Etnia is a truly delightful place to stay. 

The eight rooms are individually decorated and 

have been created by an Italian fashion designer. 

There is a beautiful swimming pool, and the 

whole place exudes understated sophistication. 

Although it isn’t a beach front property, the sea 

is only a five minute walk away, as is the main 

square. Its gardens have a tropical feel and give 

the property a sense of seclusion despite its 

central location. 

VILLAS DE TRANCOSO, 

Txai Resort 

NEAR TRANCOSO 

Villas de Trancoso has just five villas, made 

from locally-sourced Brazilian woods, all of 

which have their own veranda and seating area 

and are furnished with local artwork and fabrics 

which complement the beautiful linen bedding. 

The villas are perched next to a gorgeous 

golden palm-lined beach and there is a beach 

bar on hand for refreshments whilst the village 

of Trancoso is within walking distance. Guests 

can enjoy an excellent range of Brazilian and 

international dishes in the hotel’s restaurant or 

if they choose, under the stars on the beach 

or by the pool. 

Main square, Trancoso 


Street dancers, Salvador 

Salvador 

Brazil’s oldest city, the capital of the state of Bahia, 

and formerly the capital of Brazil itself, is certainly 

one of the most beautiful and interesting in the 

country. Influences from Portugal, Africa and Brazil 

are all evident and seem to collide here in a 

fascinating cultural melting pot. The legacy of the 

Portuguese is present in the cobbled streets of 

the historic Pelourinho district, lined with its 

pastel-hued colonial buildings. However, it is the 

African influence that really makes a visit to 

Salvador unique. The enduring and vibrant culture, 

food and religion of the African slave era are still 

evident, from the graceful art form of capoeira, 

the part-dance, part-martial art once used by the 

slaves as a form of rebellion, to the pulsing music, 

dance and colourful costumes of the Candomblé 

religion, a fusion of Catholicism and African 

indigenous rituals. 

By day, you can enjoy its cultural heritage by 

strolling past ornate churches and candy-coloured 

mansions, through doorways piled high with folk 

art, local sculptures and musical instruments and 

across tranquil courtyards covered in flowers. 

Afterwards, as the sun sets, enjoy a delicious meal 

of one of the spicy specialities of Bahian cuisine, 

take in a theatre performance or simply pull up a 

stool in one of the bars and watch the vibrant 

nightlife unfold. 

68 

Capoeira on the streets, Salvador 

CONVENTO DO CARMO, 

SALVADOR 

This charmingly restored 16th century convent 

combines character with five star facilities such 

as a swimming pool, butler service and spa. 

Certain features of the convent have been 

immaculately preserved such as the Sacristy 

where guests can marvel at the opulent golden 

ornamentation. The hotel has 90 beautifully 

decorated and well-equipped rooms and suites. If 

you do not feel like sampling some of the 

delicious food at the local restaurants in the 

Pelourinho district, then it has its own fine 

restaurant and bar. 

CASA DO AMARELINDO, 

SALVADOR 

Superbly located in the historic centre of 

Salvador, this charming hotel occupies a fully 

restored 19th century building. Furnished to high 

specifications and lovingly run, there are just ten 

rooms, with decoration inspired by the Bahian 

colonial culture with a touch of African influence. 

Boasting a small swimming pool and rooftop bar 

with breathtaking views over the Bay of Todos os 

Santos, wonderful ‘home style’ cooking using local 

ingredients and a bar stocked with local cachaças, 

you are well placed to relax and enjoy the 

experience that is Salvador. 

Casa do Amarelindo, Salvador

Rooftops, Olinda 

Street vendor, Salvador 

Chapada Diamantina 

Lençóis and Chapada 

Diamantina 

The small and pretty town of Lençóis is a 45 

minute flight or a seven hour road journey from 

Salvador. It is the gateway into the stunning 

scenery of Chapada Diamantina National Park, 

a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. The town of 

Lençois has its roots in mining, and whilst time 

and the weather have faded its colonial legacy, it 

is a lovely place from which to explore the park. 

This national park is an area of flat-topped 

mountains and forested valleys dotted with 

beautiful waterfalls and hidden caves, such as 

Poço Encantado, where the midday sun shines 

through a natural window, turning the water a 

magical electric blue. A stay here will leave 

memories of spectacular vistas, orchids and 

hummingbirds, iridescent underground lakes and 

refreshing dips in clear, crisp waters. 

Olinda 

Recife and Olinda 

Recife is the place to fly into for stays in the 

neighbouring town of Olinda, and the wonderful 

beaches to the south. Modern and busy with a 

small colonial centre, Recife itself holds little of 

real interest to the visitor, but perched on a 

hilltop overlooking the city is the colonial gem of 

Olinda. Here time has stood still and cobbled 

streets are home to magnificent Baroque 

churches and convents, pastel-coloured houses, 

mansions and ornate fountains. Dotted with shady 

plazas and swaying palm trees, and steeped in 

history, it is not a surprise that bohemian Olinda 

has been given UNESCO World Heritage status. 

For a beach stay after some time exploring here, 

the coast south of Recife and Olinda is delightful 

and has a number of lovely pousadas. 

Olinda 

Typical road, Pernambuco state 

Self-drive in 

Northeastern Brazil 

Recife is the perfect starting point for 

some self-drive exploration along the 

coast of the Pernambuco state, heading 

south to Bahia and Salvador. The roads 

in this area are mostly surfaced and 

routes well signed but a sense of 

adventure is always recommended! 

Self-drive offers the opportunity to get 

off the beaten track and visit the 

communities and beaches along this 

beautiful stretch of coast. Further south 

is the delightful colonial town of Penedo 

with is bustling markets and interesting 

architecture. The route is lined with 

pleasant accommodation options 

including Pousada Praiagogi near 

Maragogi beach. 


Lençóis Maranhenses National Park 

São Luís and around 

In the far north of the country, São Luís is the 

only city in Brazil to be founded by the French, 

whose influence is apparent in some of its older 

buildings. Many of them are crumbling but some 

properties, bought with foreign money or rescued 

by UNESCO, are shining examples of the 

beautiful architecture of the period, lovingly 

restored and proudly lining the centre’s cobbled 

streets. Walking along, you can’t help but notice 

the array of stunning ceramic tiles which clad 

many of their walls, one of these buildings’ 

most striking features. The centre has a lively feel 

(it is Brazil’s reggae capital) with small markets, 

restaurants, museums and artisan shops around 

each corner. The city is built on a 50 kilometrelong 

island, separated from the mainland by a 

series of channels which you will see during the 

plane journey in. 

Pousada Naquela, Jericoacoara 

70 

Lençóis Maranhenses 

National Park & Jericoacoara 

São Luís makes an excellent starting place to 

begin a trip to the stunning Lençóis Maranhenses 

National Park and beyond. This area of 

astounding natural beauty is becoming an 

increasingly popular destination for visitors to 

Brazil, but its infrastructure is very 

underdeveloped. The park is famous for its 

incredible 40 metre high sand dunes, stretching 

50 kilometres inland from the coast, and 70 

kilometres along it. Rains fall between January and 

June, filling the spaces between the dunes with 

pools and lakes of crystal clear fresh water which 

in the sun later in the year, shine magnificent 

shades of blue, green and turquoise, contrasting 

beautifully against the white, desert-like sands. 

The pools are at their best between July and 

September when they also become home to a 

surprising amount of fish whose eggs have been 

carried from the sea by visiting birds. 

Travelling east from this area eventually brings 

you to the beach village of Jericoacoara, famous 

for its vast sand dunes and its magnificent sunsets. 

Its windswept beaches also make it an excellent 

spot for windsurfing and kitesurfing. There are a 

number of small pousadas in the village and our 

favourites include Pousada Naquela, Vila Kalango 

and Mosquito Blue. 

Natal and around 

On 25th December 1599, a small village was 

founded one mile away from the Portuguese-built 

Fortress of Three Wise Kings; the village was 

named Natal (the Portuguese word for 

Christmas). Today the city enjoys one of the best 

climates in the whole of Brazil. Year round it is a 

sunny city – ideal for sunbathing, dune-surfing or 

sampling the local cuisine. It has a couple of good 

accommodation options on its impressive 

coastline as well as lots of restaurants. 

Natal is an excellent base to explore the main 

attraction of this area – the beaches and sand 

dunes which act as a massive adventure 

playground. The most famous beach is Genipabu, 

whose shifting dunes are criss-crossed with the 

tracks of the ubiquitous beach buggies that you 

can take for a windy and exhilarating ride. 

The region south of Natal is well worth exploring 

by road. Travelling in this manner allows you to 

visit the Atlantic rainforest and the inland area of 

Cariri, where you can stay on a ranch amongst 

lakes and granite hills. Continuing along the 

beautiful coastline provides opportunities to see 

deserted beaches and dolphins playing in the 

many sandy coves en route. There are 

sophisticated resorts and simple pousadas 

scattered between the coastal fishing villages.

Colonial houses, São Luis 

Coastline, near Natal 

Natal architecture 

Fernando de Noronha 

The small archipelago of Fernando de Noronha is 

a delight for naturalists and divers and can be 

reached by air from either Recife or Natal. Lying 

350 kilometres off the coast of mainland Brazil, 

this is a protected national marine park that offers 

some of the best beaches and diving in the 

country. Diving and snorkelling around the islands 

can reveal a dazzling array of marine life. Turtles, 

sharks, stingrays, dolphins and multi-coloured 

tropical fish abound whilst on land birdwatchers 

will be enchanted by the variety of species 

including several types of pelican and the redfooted 

booby. Flights to the islands are expensive 

as is most accommodation but we can offer 

simple good value homestays. Visitor numbers are 

strictly limited in order to preserve its pristine and 

unexploited environment. 

Sunset, Genipabu sand dunes 

Beach, Fernando de Noronha 

POUSADA MARAVILHA, 

FERNANDO DE NORONHA 

Pousada Maravilha offers peaceful surroundings 

and great attention to detail. With a reputation as 

the best place to stay in the archipelago, this is a 

wonderful place to while away the time on this 

beautiful island. It has a fabulous infinity pool, from 

which the breathtaking view can be enjoyed. 

There is also a gym and spa. 

Brasília 

Brasília rose from the unpopulated plains of 

central Brazil in the shape of a soaring bird or 

plane, and took the title of capital city from Rio 

in 1960. Designed and built in under five years, 

Brasília is a late 1950s vision of the future in 

concrete, a testament to retro-Brazilian 

architecture, in particular to the genius of Oscar 

Niemeyer. Sights like the Metropolitan Cathedral 

with its radiant stained glass interior, so designed 

because the architect believed dark interiors to be 

too redolent of sin, and the Square of Three 

Powers with its Congress, Judicial and Presidential 

buildings, are well worth a visit. Whether you 

end up loving or hating it, the city makes for a 

fascinating 24 hour stopover. 

Pousada Maravilha, Fernando de Noronha Metropolitan Cathedral, Brasília 


Capybara, Pantanal 

The Pantanal 

For wildlife viewing, there are few better places in 

the world than the Pantanal between April and 

September. The animals and birds here are similar 

to those found in the nearby Amazon basin, but 

they are much easier to spot due to the lack of 

dense jungle. The Pantanal is an enormous area 

of seasonally flooded savannah lowlands and 

wetlands, which creates a fertile environment of 

lakes, streams and pond. Hyacinths and giant 

water lilies rest on the lake surfaces, whilst 

beneath the surface anacondas lurk amongst the 

fish that are darting away from the feet of jabiru 

storks. Capybara and caiman sun themselves on 

the banks, and howler and capuchin monkeys 

chatter and swing from tree to tree, past the 

toucans, macaws and parrots as they fan their 

iridescent feathers. Other animals to which this 

vast area is home include anteater, armadillo, 

otter, marmoset and even jaguar and puma. 

Local children, Pantanal 

72 

Pousada Rio Mutum, Pantanal 

Your stay here will be based in one of the 

fazenda-style lodges which have excellent guides 

to accompany you on the various excursions 

including day and evening jeep safaris, canoe trips 

and horse riding. 

FAZENDA BARRANCO ALTO, 

PANTANAL 

Fazenda Barranco Alto is tucked away in the 

southern area of the Pantanal. The fazenda’s land 

contains more than 100 lakes, over 400 different 

birds and all sorts of mammals, as well as 

untouched vegetation. For decades the fazenda 

has been a cattle ranch, and still is, however now 

it also welcomes guests. Family-run, it has just 

four rooms and therefore offers an exclusive 

experience with plenty of wildlife spotting 

opportunities. All the activities of the farm are 

based on sustainable principles. Hyacinth macaw 

are seen daily, as well as trogon, jacamar, toucan, 

raptor and numerous other species. 

POUSADA RIO MUTUM, 

PANTANAL 

Pousada Rio Mutum is located in the state of 

Mato Grosso in the northern Pantanal. It consists 

of 16 simple air-conditioned apartments, each 

with hot water and a hammock on the veranda. 

The grounds are grassy and dotted with a variety 

of local trees which are a haven for birds and 

animals including macaw, paraqueet and Brazilian 

porcupine. The Mutum river flows steadily about 

100 metres from the lodge but during the wet 

season it rises almost to the edge of the grounds. 

Chapada dos Guimarães 

Chapada dos Guimarães is a stunning national 

park, popular with Brazilian visitors and growing 

in popularity with international travellers too as 

the reputation of the northern Pantanal grows. 

The Chapada is about 800 metres higher than the 

enormous, flat plains of the Pantanal so it enjoys 

cooler temperatures which gives rise to different 

flora and fauna. It is made up of stunning tabletop 

mountains, ravines, caves, streams and 

waterfalls and is a haven for walkers and nature 

lovers, especially birdwatchers. Chapada dos 

Guimarães is very easily combined with a stay in 

the northern Pantanal and provides a totally 

contrasting experience to the Pantanal’s wetlands.

Cowboy at Fazenda Barranco Alto, Pantanal Jabiru stork 

Pale-faced saki monkey Meeting of the Waters, near Manaus 

Manaus 

From whichever direction your plane approaches 

Manaus, you will watch in awe as you pass over 

the enormous expanse of green wilderness 

before reaching your destination. This steamy 

port in the middle of the Amazon rainforest is a 

product of the 19th century rubber boom, but 

today is the commercial hub of the entire 

Amazon region. The most incongruous site is 

perhaps the city’s opera house, a grand, 

marble-halled, chandelier-bedecked building that 

still puts on fine shows in the heart of the 

Amazon. The hectic port area is an atmospheric 

blur of sailors, passengers and vendors, as goods 

and people arrive and depart. 

The Brazilian Amazon 

The two rivers that are adjacent to Manaus, the 

Solimões and Negro (Black) rivers, merge to form 

what we know as the mighty Amazon River, 

which even here, 1,600 kilometres from the 

Atlantic, is ten kilometres wide. Their meeting, 

however, is a little unusual; the yellow waters of 

the Solimões run alongside the waters of the 

Negro for six kilometres before converging. 

The rainforest’s immense network of waterways 

and lakes is home to an abundance of plant and 

animal species, with many more yet undiscovered. 

The area’s sheer size means that whilst a stay 

here in one of the lodges or boats will be a 

fascinating experience, you are unlikely to see the 

wealth of animal life which can be spotted in 

other parts of the Amazon. However, it is still 

highly enjoyable to spend days walking with 

biologist guides and taking boat trips along the 

peaceful rivers. For those with a real interest in 

seeing wildlife, we recommend visiting the 

Amazon regions of Ecuador or Peru. 

AMAZON ECO PARK, 

NEAR MANAUS 

The Amazon Eco Park is located 30 minutes by 

boat from Manaus, on the banks of the Taruma 

River. The lodge comprises 60 comfortable but 

simple rooms, with private bathrooms (with hot 

water showers), fans and air-conditioning. There 

is a large open air restaurant serving regional 

cuisine, a private beach and natural pools. 

Excursions include boat trips, treks through the 

jungle, caiman spotting at night by torch light, 

piranha fishing and visits to local village tribes. 

Accommodation is simple but it’s a great, good 

value introduction to the Amazon. 

UAKARI FLOATING LODGE, 

NEAR TEFÉ 

Accessed from the town of Tefé, Uakari Floating 

Lodge is located inside the Mamiraua Reserve and 

concentrates on ecotourism activities. It has ten 

simple, comfortable and ample apartments, with 

warm solar-powered showers. The reserve is a 

state conservation area located around the 

Solimões River. It is made up of channels, lakes 

and seasonally flooded forest. The trails are 

designed not to be physically demanding and may 

be walked in one to three hours at the longest. 

During the flood season (May to July) all 

excursions are done in a small paddle canoe. 

AMAZON CRUISES 

Several boats depart the docks at Manaus for 

interesting trips along the Amazon and her many 

tributaries. Ranging in length from a couple of 

nights cruising in the local area, to seven nights 

venturing further afield, these cruises are an 

easy-paced way to see the Amazon. The Clipper 

and Tucano cruises are recommended and each 

of their boats carry between eight and 20 

passengers on relaxed three or seven night 

cruises. A more luxury option is offered by the 

larger Iberostar cruise. 

Toucan, Amazon 


Iguaçu Falls 







Please call one of our Brazil specialists to start 


Telephone: 01993 838 610 


Being the fifth largest country in the world means 

that you can cover a serious number of miles in 

any trip to Brazil, even one focused on just a 

single region. As an example the flight from São 

Paulo to Manaus (in the Amazon) takes four 

hours, and the most direct road journey between 

São Paulo and Rio takes six hours. The internal 

flight network is extensive and generally runs to 

timetable. Land crossings into Argentina can be 

made via Iguaçu Falls. 


74 

When to go 


✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ 





Brazil can be visited year round. With the 

exception of the far south and southeast of the 

country which has a cooler period between June 

and September, Brazil has a warm tropical 

climate. There is a rainy season that affects the 

northeast between April and July, and Rio and the 

south from October to January. The Pantanal is 

best visited in its dry period between April and 

September. Carnival takes place annually around 

February or early March (dates vary each year). 

If you want to include Carnival in your trip, you 

should book early (at least six months in advance) 

as many hotels enforce minimum stay periods 

and fill up quickly. 



Prices 



for your trip to Brazil on our website, alternatively 


Paraty 

Green Coast Uncovered 

This short itinerary is ideal for those looking to 

enjoy diverse experiences in Brazil without the 

need to travel vast distances. Start in Rio where 

there is time to explore the must-see sights 

before heading west along the Green Coast to 

the charming colonial town of Paraty. You’ll have 

time at leisure to explore its cobbled streets and 

enjoy its churches and artisan shops. End the trip 

with a stay on Ilha Grande, with its dozens of 

isolated beaches. 

Day 1 Fly from the UK to Rio de Janeiro. 

Day 2 Enjoy a tour of Rio including 

Corcovado and Sugar Loaf Mountain. 

Day 3 Free time to explore Rio’s beaches, 

museums, galleries and shops. 

Day 4 Travel by road to the small colonial 

town of Paraty. 

Day 5 Explore the cobbled streets of Paraty. 

Day 6 Travel to Ilha Grande. 

Days 7-9 Relax on the beaches of Ilha Grande. 

Day 10 Travel by road back to Rio for your 

flight home. 


Stay longer 

BRAZIL 


Ilha Grande 

With two to three extra days you could include 

Iguaçu Falls, a short flight from Rio. Alternatively, 

head east of Rio to the beach resorts of Búzios. 

Local girl, Rio de Janeiro

Iguaçu 

BRAZIL 

Classic Brazil 

This tour takes you to the country’s best-known 

highlights including its famous cities, stunning 

waterfalls and beautiful beaches. It is a great option 

for those visiting Brazil for the first time. 




Day 3 Free time to explore Rio’s beaches, 

museums, galleries and shops. 

Day 4 Fly to Iguaçu where you will be met 

and taken to your hotel. 

Day 5 Enjoy guided excursions to both sides 

of the impressive waterfalls. 

Day 6 Fly to the city of Salvador in the 

northeast of Brazil. 

Day 7 Explore the city with a local guide. 

Day 8 At leisure to explore further, perhaps 

visit some of the city’s churches or 

museums, head to its beaches or to 

a local market. 

Day 9 Drive or fly along the coast to end 

your trip with some relaxation on 

the beach. 

Days 10-12 Relax on the beach. 

Day 13 Fly to São Paulo and then on to 

the UK. 


Stay longer 

São Paulo 


Salvador 

Itacaré 

The other obvious highlight of Brazil is the Amazon 

rainforest, so a few days’ stay at one of the jungle 

lodges can be included within this trip. 

Alternatively, extend your time in Salvador and 

head inland to the state of Bahia, through the 

sugarcane plantations to hidden riverside colonial 

towns, table-top mountains and caves and 

grottoes. Whilst in Salvador why not have a go at 

some Brazilian drumming or visit a local market 

with your guide before learning how to cook a 

traditional fish stew with a local chef? 

Manaus 

Pantanal 

Iguaçu 

Wild Brazil 


This is an itinerary that focuses on the incredible 

array of ecosystems and wildlife that flourish within 

Brazil. From subtropical rainforest and waterfalls to 

the Amazon jungle, from wetlands teeming with 

wildlife to urban forests and botanical gardens, this 

trip is a nature lover’s dream. 




Day 3 Time to further explore Rio, perhaps 

taking a hike in the Tijuca forest. 

Day 4 Fly to Iguaçu where you will be met 

and taken to your hotel. 

Day 5 Enjoy guided excursions to both sides 

of the impressive waterfalls. 

Day 6 Fly to the Pantanal and transfer to 

your lodge. 

Days 7-8 Excursions in the Pantanal. These 

will include exploring on foot with 

your guide, kayaking along the local 

rivers, horse riding excursions and 

night tours. 

Day 9 Travel back to the airport for your 

flights to the Amazon. Spend the 

night in the port city of Manaus. 

Day 10 Travel by boat to your Amazon 

lodge or board your cruise boat. 

Afternoon excursions into the jungle. 

Days 11-12 Guided excursions into the jungle. 

Day 13 Return to Manaus and fly to São 

Paulo to begin your journey home. 


Stay longer 

BRAZIL 

São Paulo 


Extend your time in Rio to visit the Serra dos 

Órgãos National Park to walk its trails and discover 

its lovely hidden waterfalls. Whilst in the Pantanal 

you could head to the Chapada dos Guimarães 

to explore its beautiful rock formations and 

contrasting wildlife. Alternatively, add some time 

relaxing at one of Brazil’s beautiful beaches before 

flying home. 

BRAZIL 

Colonial Brazil 

This is a perfect trip for those with an interest in 

the architecture and culture of Brazil’s colonial 

period. The country has wonderful examples from 

this period including magnificent churches and 

charming homes. 


Day 2 Arrive in Rio, and transfer to your 

hotel in the historic quarter. 

Day 3 A full day’s guided tour of the most 

famous sites of the city. 

Day 4 Transfer along the Green Coast to 

the small colonial town of Paraty. 

Day 5 Explore the cobbled streets of Paraty. 

Day 6 Travel by road inland into the state 

of Minas Gerais to the sleepy town 

of Tiradentes. 

Day 7 Enjoy a tour of the churches, 

museums and shops of Tiradentes. 

Day 8 Continue on by road to the 

picturesque town of Ouro Preto. 

Day 9 Explore the winding streets and 

beautiful churches of Ouro Preto. 

Day 10 Fly north to Recife, and on to the 

colourful town of Olinda. 

Day 11 Enjoy a day in Olinda, famous for its 

artisan shops. 

Day 12 Fly to Salvador, where your hotel is 

located in the historic centre. 

Day 13 Explore the city with a local guide. 

Day 14 Further explorations of the city, or 

time to relax by its beaches. 

Day 15 Fly to São Paulo and then to the UK. 


Stay longer 

Ouro Preto 

Tiradentes 


Paraty 

São Paulo 

Salvador 

Olinda 

Recife 

To experience French and Dutch-influenced 

architecture fly north to the town of São Luís. 

For a complete contrast, spend a couple of nights 

in the 1960s city of Brasília. 


Paraguay 

Dwarfed by its huge neighbours, 

Paraguay is off the radar for 

many people visiting South America 

as it doesn’t have any of the obvious 

attractions of the continent. However 

it is something of a ‘cult’ destination; 

part of its attraction is the very fact 

that it is so little visited. Scratch 

beneath the surface and there is a 

wealth of experiences for the visitor; 

a year-round tropical climate, the 

vast Chaco area with its unique 

Mennonite settlements and plentiful 

birdwatching opportunities. On top 

of this, there are some of the most 

impressive Jesuit ruins in South 

America as well as colonial villages, 

ranches, cowboys and verdant jungle 

teeming with life. Paraguay also 

bears the legacy of a fascinating but 

tragic history of wars, dictatorships 

and isolation – in all, a destination 

with a rich and culturally diverse 

heritage, ready to be discovered. 

Paraguayan cowboy 

76 

1 

2 

3 

4 

The Chaco 

The vibrant biodiversity of the 

Chaco offers the chance to see 

some of South America’s rarest 

bird and plant life. 

1 4 Itaipú Dam 

2 Asunción 

A fascinating capital city, and 

from here you can take a 

wood-fired steam train into 

the countryside. 

3 Encarnación 

Visit the 17th century Jesuit 

ruins, some of the finest in 

South America. 

Hummingbird 

A joint Paraguayan and Brazilian 

venture which is the largest 

operational hydro-electric plant 

in the world. 

Meet the Mennonites 

Travel into the Chaco to meet 

Paraguay’s most successful 

settlers and see how they live 

off the land. 

Real life 

Join the locals for a cooling flask 

of tereré, a herb-infused drink 

enjoyed across the country.

Asunción 

Paraguay’s steamy capital and largest city, 

Asunción, sitting on the left bank of the Rio 

Paraguay, is a city of many contrasts. Shiny 

skyscrapers stand behind weather-worn colonial 

buildings or glitzy disco bars, and traditionally 

dressed women sell tereré from metal flasks 

outside the city’s stock exchange. Much of the 

city’s architecture dates from the 19th century, 

a time when the country was ruled by a string of 

charismatic but often brutal dictators, and during 

which the Paraguayan national identity was 

formed. The city today is somewhat sprawling, 

although small by Latin American standards, with 

most of the areas of interest within easy walking 

distance. Expect tree-lined avenues and parks, a 

somewhat bizarre mixture of architectural styles, 

and in July and August, the pink blossom of the 

lapacho trees. Visit the stunning white Presidential 

Palace, catch the changing of the guard at the 

Panteón de los Heroes, built in 1863 as an 

oratory for the Virgin, now a memorial to the 

country’s war dead, and then sip a beer in the 

noisy 1950s Lido bar opposite. 

Surrounding villages 

The villages around Asunción will give you a taste 

of small town Paraguay. They include the artisan 

town of Itá, traditionally known for its ‘gallinita de 

la suerte’; a small clay chicken used as a lucky 

charm, Yaguarón with its 18th century Franciscan 

church, Caacupé, home to the Patroness of all 

Paraguayans, the Virgin of Caacupé, and San 

Bernadino on the shores of Lake Ypacarí. 

The Chaco 

In the north and west of Paraguay, the Chaco, 

South America’s largest dry forest, contains an 

extraordinary number of plant and bird species 

and is a special area of conservation. Its wide 

plains, salt flats, swamps and savannahs are home 

to thousands of plant and cacti species and 

wildlife such as pumas, tapirs, flamingos, 

armadillos and jaguars. This biologically rich and 

sparsely populated land became the unlikely 

home to 20th century Mennonite settlers from 

Germany, Russia and Canada, fleeing social and 

religious persecution. Renowned for their 

disciplined, hard working ethic as well as their 

agricultural expertise, the Mennonites established 

their own farms, schools and churches in the 

Chaco in the 1920s. Today the 28,000-strong 

Mennonite community still speak their own old 

German dialect, and are the country’s largest 

milk producers. One of the ways to best 

explore this area is to travel along the rivers 

on the M/S Paraguay cruise boat for a truly 

unique perspective. 

Asunción 

Jesuit Missions of Trinidad 

and Jesús 

Rarely does one find a UNESCO World Heritage 

Site with so few visitors, but that’s only part of 

the attraction of these impressive Jesuit Missions. 

A walk around the atmospheric red-brick hilltop 

ruins allows you to absorb a sense of what once 

made these 17th and 18th century colonies so 

powerful that the Spanish crown had them 

abolished. The Jesuit Order came to Paraguay to 

christianise and educate the indigenous Guaraní 

population. Apart from religious conversion, the 

Jesuits encouraged the Guaraní to express 

themselves artistically and taught them intricate 

wood-carving and musical instrument making skills. 

So successful was the Trinidad Mission at its 

height that its 4,000 inhabitants were able to live 

comfortably off its cattle and yerba maté 

plantations. Today remnants of that sophisticated 

society are still visible in the stone-carved pulpits, 

sculptures and statuary of these remarkably 

serene settlements. 

Jesuit Missions, Encarnación 

Audley in Paraguay 

Whilst Paraguay is relatively little visited in 

comparison to its larger neighbours, our 

specialists have the same love and intimate 

knowledge of the country as anywhere else 

in South America. Our local guides and 

drivers offer a rich insight into their culture, 

and are delighted to receive visitors from 

abroad to show off with pride all that 

Paraguay has to offer. Visiting Paraguay is 

generally done in combination with a trip to 

Brazil, entering the country close to the 

immense Iguazú Falls, or with Argentina, 

crossing from the state of Misiones with its 

vast wetlands. Alternatively, there are direct 

flights to Asunción from São Paulo and 

Buenos Aires. Paraguay is rarely a destination 

visited in its own right, although there is 

enough for the intrepid traveller to fill a week 

or even two. 


Accommodation in Paraguay is somewhat 

limited but there are a number of truly 

charming options as well as the more simple 

properties common outside Asunción. 

Paraguayans are warm and hospitable, 

ensuring that you will be well received and 

made welcome across the country. Getting 

around landlocked Paraguay is largely 

unproblematic and most roads in Asunción, 

as well as the highways leading out of the 

city, are paved and well signed. The route 

through the Chaco towards the border 

with Bolivia in the north of the country, 

however, is unpaved and can be impassable 

between October and March when the 

rains are at their heaviest. We advise 

avoiding travel in Paraguay’s hottest summer 

months (November to February) when 

temperatures frequently reach 40C and 

humidity is high. 

Find out more 


information about travel in Paraguay, please 

visit our website. 

☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Paraguay 


Paraguay 77

Uruguay 

The tiny country of Uruguay lies 

sandwiched between its two 

giant neighbours, Argentina and 

Brazil. A wide range of experiences 

await the visitor – savour the 

architectural delights and bustling 

port market of its capital Montevideo, 

head for the white sand beaches and 

glittery nightlife of the resort of Punta 

del Este, or take a step along the coast 

and back in time to the sleepy town 

of Colonia del Sacramento which has 

a UNESCO-protected colonial heart. 

You’ll also find a whole world of 

cultural and nature-rich activities in 

its interior where the country’s mild 

climate and green open spaces offer 

the perfect conditions for horse riding, 

birdwatching and touring its small 

vineyards. Like their Argentine 

neighbours, Uruguayans are also a 

nation of ‘maté’ drinkers and 

visitors will also enjoy discovering 

their national wines, cheeses and 

excellent steak. 

Rodeo festival near Montevideo 

78 

1 

2 

3 

4 

1 Colonia del Sacramento 

Amble around the historic 

cobbled streets of this 

atmospheric little 

smugglers’ town. 

2 Montevideo 

Visit the bustling Mercado del 

Puerto in the renovated 

docklands area for some of the 

country’s best grilled steaks. 

Cobbled street in Colonia del Sacramento 

3 Punta del Este 

Join the jet set on the sandy 

beaches of South America’s 

most glamorous resort. 

4 Cabo Polonio 

Ride criollo horses across the 

sweeping sand dunes. 

On the Grapevine 

Enjoy a large glass of Tannat, 

the ‘Uruguayan Malbec’ on a 

visit to one of the vineyards 

near Colonia del Sacramento.

Colonia del Sacramento 

Step back in time to the sleepy former smuggling 

town of Colonia del Sacramento, founded by 

the Portuguese in 1680. Its cobbled streets, 

picture-perfect Spanish and Portuguese houses, 

quaint art galleries, cafes and leafy parks make it 

an atmospheric place for a day trip by ferry from 

Buenos Aires or for a couple of nights’ stay. 

Lapped on three sides by the brown waters of 

the River Plate, its colonial centre, a UNESCO 

World Heritage Site, has some fascinating 

attractions. Among them are the wooden 

drawbridge leading to the original city gate, the 

Portuguese museum with its maps and 

paraphernalia from the time of Colonia’s 

occupation and Uruguay’s oldest church, dating 

from 1695. The luxury Four Seasons hotel of 

Carmelo is one hour’s drive up the road, and is 

easily combined with a trip to Colonia. 

Montevideo 

Montevideo is an intriguing capital city, perched 

on the banks of the River Plate. Reminiscent of a 

European city in appearance, it lives at a more 

relaxed pace than its Argentine neighbour Buenos 

Aires. Its historic old town in the centre is a 

charming area dotted with plazas, rivers, parks 

with bike trails, and some wonderful restaurants. 

The city’s historic port area has been spruced up 

and its famed market, particularly lively on a 

Saturday, has taken place in the same spot since 

1868. Full of colour and life, it is a delightful place 

for people-watching and exploring its labyrinthine 

alleys teeming with stalls, entertainers and buskers. 

Here you’ll also taste some of the city’s finest 

steak and seafood from a number of excellent 

bistros or by grabbing a chivito (Uruguayan special 

steak sandwich) from one of the many busy stalls. 

Punta del Este and around 

A couple of hours’ drive east of Montevideo lies 

Punta del Este, Uruguay’s (and possibly South 

America’s) most glamorous beach resort. A long 

stretch of white sandy beach with glitzy bars, 

restaurants and yacht clubs where people go to 

see and be seen, the town’s pine-fringed beaches 

are split between those at the mouth of the River 

Plate and those that are lapped by the Atlantic. 

Busiest during the summer months from 

December to February, visitors are drawn to 

Punta del Este’s exclusive outdoor lifestyle and 

cosmopolitan atmosphere. It also makes a great 

base from which to head out and explore the 

sleepy fishing village of San José and the sand 

dunes of Cabo Polonio or a great beach break 

at the end of a trip in either Uruguay itself or 

Argentina. If you prefer a quieter beach stay then 

you might prefer the little town of José Ignacio, 

just a twenty minute drive east of Punta del Este. 

Gauchos at Finca Piedra, near Montevideo 

Inland in Uruguay 

Travelling into the little explored interior will 

give a great insight into the real Uruguay, including 

its culture of fine wine and cheese. Uruguay’s 

wine heritage goes back to the first Spanish and 

Italian immigrants who brought the grapevine 

here some 250 years ago. Today the ‘Tannat’ 

grape produces dark, dense red wines, enjoyed 

across the country. There are a number of 

wineries that also offer charming accommodation 

to visitors and are perfect for those looking for 

the complete wine experience. One of our 

favourites is La Vigna, in the eastern part of the 

province of Colonia. For those looking for 

something a little more active, Uruguay is an 

excellent choice for horse riders, with beautiful 

criollo horses and terrain ranging from sand 

dunes to marshes, pine forests and palm groves. 

For bird lovers, Uruguay offers a wide variety 

of ecosystems and the chance to see most of 

South America’s temperate bird species, from 

hummingbirds to rhea, in a single trip. 

Colonia del Sacramento 

Audley in Uruguay 

One of South America’s lesser visited nations, 

Uruguay is most frequently combined with 

time in Argentina, either in the form of a visit 

across the River Plate from Buenos Aires to 

Colonia del Sacramento or Montevideo, or 

by ending a trip around Argentina with a 

beach stay on the Uruguayan coast. 

However, for those with an interest in the 

outdoors, in particular birds, ranches and 

riding plus good food and drink, Uruguay 

easily offers enough to fill a week or even 

two. Our local drivers and guides provide a 

fascinating insight into a country of which 

they are immensely proud whilst our own 

specialists know and love Uruguay and are 

able to offer the most up to date information 

and tailor every trip into an adventure. 


The best time to travel to Uruguay, and 

particularly to its coastal areas, is during its 

summer months, between November and 

February, but travel is possible all year round. 

There are international airports in 

Montevideo and Punta del Este making 

access to the country quick and easy. The 

country’s infrastructure is good and travelling 

overland is the best way to explore. 

Uruguay’s history of extensive agriculture 

is reflected today in the numerous ranches 

or estancias which have opened their doors 

to visitors seeking a taste of the life of the 

Uruguayan cowboy or looking for 

somewhere to spend a few days relaxing 

in the countryside with home-cooked food 

and good wine. Our favourite estancias 

are dotted throughout the country, and 

include Finca Piedra, El Charabón and 

Guardia del Monte. Estancias aren’t the only 

option for accommodation in Uruguay, our 

specialists have travelled across the country 

searching out properties to suit most tastes 

and budgets. 

Find out more 


information about travel in Uruguay, please 

visit our website. 

☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Uruguay 


Uruguay 79

Argentina 

Vibrant, diverse and intoxicating, 

Argentina succeeds in being 

quintessentially Latin, surprisingly 

cosmopolitan and completely individual – 

a truly incomparable place. Contained 

within its vast boundaries are a heady array 

of landscapes and sights, from windswept 

Patagonian steppe to the tumbling waters 

of Iguazú Falls, through the snow-capped 

80 

volcanoes and emerald waters of the 

Lake District to lush wineries, from 

cactus-spiked gorges to penguin-filled shores. 

But Argentina has much more to offer than 

its natural beauty, it is also a place of its 

people: the gauchos working with speed and 

skill as they herd their cattle in the pampas, 

couples entwined in a heartfelt tango in 

the smoky bars of Buenos Aires and the 

Welsh-speaking communities of northern 

Patagonia. It is the home of world-famous 

icons including Che, the heartthrob 

revolutionary, Evita the political diva, and 

Maradona the controversial footballing hero. 

Fiercely proud, patriotic and partisan, the 

people of Argentina are equally warm, open 

and welcoming, a key part of the appeal of 

their vast, beautiful and unique country.

6 

Buenos Aires 

The cosmopolitan capital of 

Argentina is a fascinating place 

of culture, cafe society, history 

and tango dancing. 

8 

1 5 Vineyards around 

2 Iguazú Falls 

The impressive waterfalls that 

straddle the Argentinian and 

Brazilian border are a must-see. 

3 Iberá Wetlands 

A great place for wildlife 

spotting – float on a canoe 

with only caiman, capybara and 

storks to keep you company. 

4 Salta 

A city with a traditional colonial 

centre, many museums and a 

base from which to explore the 

dramatic landscapes nearby. 

7 

5 

9 

4 

10 

1 

Mendoza 

The centre of the wine industry 

in Argentina and a great place 

to test your palate. 

6 Lake District 

A beautiful and verdant 

region of lakes and hills that 

can be easily explored by car, 

bike, foot or horseback. 

7 Perito Moreno Glacier 

One of the few glaciers in the 

world that is still advancing, the 

huge Perito Moreno is inching 

into Lake Argentino. Don some 

crampons and go walking on it. 

3 

2 

Gauchos 

8 Mount Fitzroy 

The town of El Chaltén in 

the north of Los Glaciares 

National Park is the base from 

which to explore some 

dramatic landscapes, including 

the mesmerising granite peak 

of Fitzroy. 

9 Tierra del Fuego 

The ‘Land of Fire’ sits at the 

very bottom of the continent, 

where the Andes finally crumble 

into the sea. 

10 Península Valdés 

An area of coast with 

abundant wildlife including 

penguins and sea lions, and 

sometimes orcas can be 

spotted looking for a meal. 

Audley in Argentina 

Argentina is a huge and varied country 

with an incredible number of visitor 

attractions. Our specialists have a detailed 

and up-to-date knowledge of the country’s 

many regions and the best ways to combine 

them, dependent upon the different seasons 

and also the logistical factors you will 

encounter as you travel from one part to 

another. As well as the obvious highlights 

such as Buenos Aires, Iguazú Falls and the 

Perito Moreno Glacier we have visited, and 

like to suggest, areas and places to stay which 

are perhaps less well-known. Whatever your 

motive for visiting this wonderful country, 

whether you wish to learn the tango, sample 

the wine, marvel at the glaciers, waterfalls or 

mountains, photograph the wildlife, ride with 

the gauchos, or a combination of all these 

things, we can tailor a trip to ensure that you 

leave the country loving it as much as we do. 

Argentina is also easily combined with visits 

to Chile via one of the many spectacular 

Andean routes between the two countries, 

or with Brazil via Iguazú Falls. 

Accommodation 

Particular to Argentina is the estancia, or 

working ranch, from which you can explore 

the surrounding countryside on foot or 

horseback, watch the gauchos at work and 

get to know your hosts over fine meals 

(please see our feature on page 86). 

There are many of these estancias dotted 

throughout the country, offering a 

wonderfully authentic yet comfortable 

insight into traditional rural life, and we have 

searched out those with the best location 

and the friendliest hosts. There are also many 

rural retreats, as you would expect from a 

country of such vast empty spaces. Argentina 

has also been at the forefront of the rise of 

boutique properties in South America, and 

boasts many wonderful and quirky hotels to 

suit all tastes and budgets. 

Find out more 


information about travel in Argentina, please 


☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Argentina 


Argentina 81

La Boca, Buenos Aires 

Buenos Aires 

The capital of Argentina is one of the world’s 

great urban experiences: a place of stylish people 

and buildings, wide boulevards and leafy parks, 

poignant history, gastronomic delights, tango in 

the streets and extravagant arts and architecture. 

The city is divided into barrios (neighbourhoods), 

each different yet all full of character. The 

colourful buildings of the working-class La Boca 

contrast with chic and showy Recoleta, best 

known for its lavish cemetery. Bohemian San 

Telmo turns into a bustling market on Sundays, Local art, Buenos Aires 

Buenos Aires rooftops 

82 

as throngs of locals and visitors shop for antiques 

and tango memorabilia. The trendy boulevards of 

Palermo are perfect for people-watching and 

boutique shopping, while the gentrified dockland 

area of Puerto Madero is full of restaurants and 

bars and provides a friendly counterpoint to the 

handsome Plaza de Mayo, dominated by the pink 

Presidential building. One of the joys of being in 

Buenos Aires is to explore these barrios on foot, 

pausing frequently to sit in a pavement cafe to sip 

an espresso or beer and watch the city flourish 

around you. Ultimately, whether your interests 

lie in music and theatre, tango lessons and shows, 

gastronomy and wine, shopping or simply 

immersing yourself in vibrant city life then Buenos 

Aires, however long or short your stay is bound 

to captivate you. It is truly one of the great cities 

of the world. 

ACCOMMODATION IN 

BUENOS AIRES 

Buenos Aires is at the forefront of the concept 

of boutique accommodation in South America, 

and so the city has a vast range of character 

hotels in renovated historic houses, scattered 

across the different barrios, and to suit all budgets. 

The city also boasts some of the finest 

international hotels in the world, plus many 

simple, good value properties with excellent 

locations. Our favourites are mentioned below, 

separated out into the barrios of the city where 

they are located. 

DOWNTOWN ACCOMMODATION 

The commercial and business centre of the city, 

the downtown area is lively, bustling and is an 

ideal central location for ease of visiting the 

main attractions. It is here that the best value 

accommodation lies, with the Hotel Elevage 

and Eurobuilding being the ideal choices for 

those who just want somewhere clean and 

comfortable and well located. We also like the 

Tanguero Hotel, which has themed itself on 

the national dance.

Women's Bridge, Puerto Madero 

San Telmo 

Local market, San Telmo 

RECOLETA ACCOMMODATION 

The greenest and grandest of all the Buenos 

Aires barrios, Recoleta is the most exclusive and 

expensive part of the city, but located within 

walking distance or a short taxi ride from 

downtown. The hotels here are all at the upper 

end of the price scale and include the Park Hyatt 

Palacio Duhau, which boasts a magnificent central 

garden, the good value Sofitel which offers great 

service and facilities, the Casa Sur Art Hotel, an 

elegant boutique property, and the traditionally 

luxurious Alvear Palace, visited by the rich and 

famous since the 1930s. 

Tango mural 

The Tango 

Buenos Aires has always been one of the 

most enchanting cities of the world, 

embodying the spirit of youth, passion and 

a zest for life. So it’s no wonder that when 

a wave of European immigrants swept into 

the region in the late 19th century, their 

musical styles began to mix with the existing 

cocktail of Hispanic, African and indigenous 

influences, creating an exciting new music 

form, the tango. 

The sound originated in the city’s bars and 

brothels, though it soon spread from the 

barrios in the early 20th century to the 

salons of the upper classes where more 

formal dance steps and less racy lyrics were 

introduced. This acceptance led to an 

explosion in popularity locally as well as on 

the other side of the Atlantic in Paris. 

Tango became identified with nationalism in 

the 1940s however and as President Peron’s 

political life became problematic, tango’s 

popularity waned. It was only in the 1970s 

that tango began to reinvent itself with jazz 

and classical influences igniting a nuevo tango. 

Not only was it firmly back on the scene but 

more popular than ever, particularly the 

original milongas (public dances) of the early 

20th century. 

SAN TELMO AND MONSERRAT 

ACCOMMODATION 

A grittier part of the city, San Telmo and 

Monserrat are characterised by historic but faded 

architecture, and bohemian atmosphere. La 

Cayetana in Monserrat is one of our favourite 

hotels, offering great value and friendly 

accommodation in an old mansion. The nearby 

barrio of San Telmo is a place of antique shops, 

tango memorabilia, plazas encircled by cafes and 

restaurants, and an increasingly gentrified air. 

Here you will find the Mansion Dandi Royal, a 

hotel dedicated to celebrating the tango by way 

of murals, music and the lessons it offers in the 

basement academy, and Mansion Vitraux, a stylish 

boutique property with wine bar and spa. 

PUERTO MADERO 

ACCOMMODATION 

The renovated port area of the city, Puerto 

Madero is now a place of spruced-up red brick 

warehouses, eye-catching modern buildings 

and long promenades alongside fine restaurants. 

A quiet but developing area, here lies the Philippe 

Starck-designed Faena, a modern but majestic 

warehouse building with a unique interior design 

and excellent levels of service. Also here is the 

Hotel Madero, a good value option for those 

who want to be in this part of the city. 

Tango aficionados will find their passion 

reflected throughout the Buenos Aires of 

today. Painted murals of dancers in clinches 

adorn the historic Mansion Dandi Royal hotel 

in San Telmo, and you can learn a few steps 

at the attached Tango Academy (group or 

private lessons are possible) and practise (with 

locals if you are brave) at the regular milongas 

that they hold. Alternatively you can visit one 

of the many evening shows that include fine 

dining whilst being entertained by a live tango 

orchestra and breathtaking dancers. Whether 

you dance it yourself or simply soak up the 

atmosphere, it’s difficult to leave Buenos Aires 

without having fallen under the spell of the 

tango’s pervasive charm. 

Mansion Vitraux, San Telmo 

PALERMO ACCOMMODATION 

Further out of the city lies the vast barrio of 

Palermo, which is broken down into mini-barrios 

such as Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood. 

Over the last few years this area has seen a huge 

influx of stylish new hotels, bars, restaurants and 

shops, making it a bustling and popular place with 

visitors and locals alike. The Legado Mitico is one 

of our favourite hotels in all the city; an exclusive 

little place of 11 rooms, all themed on great 

Argentinians through history, and with a small 

courtyard well away from the hustle and bustle 

of the city, plus on the top floor there is an open 

air Jacuzzi. Other favourites in Palermo include 

the Hotel Nuss and, on the very edge of the 

barrio, the 248 Finisterra. 

www.audleytravel.com/argentina ● 01993 838 630 ● Argentina 83

Gaucho drinking traditional maté 

Around Buenos Aires 

It is worth exploring the leafy suburbs in the 

north of Buenos Aires, particularly San Isidro and 

Olivos (which is home to an excellent golf 

course), both served by the Tren de la Costa 

railway, which is popular with the locals. Further 

north is Tigre, a small town about 30 kilometres 

from Buenos Aires at the mouth of the River 

Plate delta, and accessible by a leisurely boat trip. 

Heading west or south will bring you into the 

great grass and cattle lands of the pampas which 

stretch, drum-flat, around the city. It is on this 

land that the legendary gauchos do their work on 

the estancias (see feature on page 86), here are a 

couple of our favourites where you can stay for a 

retreat from the city. 

CANDELARIA DEL MONTE, 

NEAR BUENOS AIRES 

Candelaria del Monte is a working estancia 

offering a range of activities such as horse riding, 

birdwatching, and polo matches. The house 

itself has many colonial characteristics and the 

rooms have some quirky touches. There is a 

swimming pool, and vast grounds full of different 

kinds of trees. Meals are based around the 

traditional Argentine ‘asados’ (barbecues) and 

‘pucheros’ (stews) plus tasty Patagonian lamb 

and trout. The friendly owners will ensure a 

very memorable stay. 

Argentina flag Gauchos on an estancia 

84 

Candelaria del Monte 

LA ELOISA, NEAR BUENOS AIRES 

Estancia la Eloisa is in the heart of the pampas, 

in a region that specialises in producing some of 

the best polo ponies in the world. This traditional 

estancia is the perfect place to learn to ride, or 

to completely relax. The 15 rooms are traditional 

and fairly simple while the service is welcoming, 

and the food homely and typical of the region. 

In the grounds is a nine hole golf course, tennis 

courts and a small pool to relax by. For those 

with an interest in polo, there are three fields 

and a polo school with top quality horses.

Iguazú Falls 

Iguazú Falls 

The most dramatic waterfalls in the world tumble 

over the cliffs at the border of Argentina and 

Brazil. It is said that Argentina provides the show 

and Brazil enjoys the view, and certainly the more 

panoramic walkways are on the Brazilian side. 

However, a visit to the Argentine side is a must 

as it is here that you can get up close and 

personal with the falls. Nature is showcased at its 

fiercest in the foaming cauldron of the Devil’s 

Throat, where several falls join together to hurtle 

down a sheer drop, a dizzying view is provided 

from your catwalk vantage point. The falls also 

showcase nature at its most beautiful, as green 

jungle and blue sky combine with white water 

and rainbows to ensure that your walks along the 

twisting paths above and below the falls provide 

a photo opportunity at every turn. 

ACCOMMODATION AT 

IGUAZÚ FALLS 

There are limited hotel options by the waterfalls 

themselves, with just two hotels situated within 

the national park, one on the Argentine side and 

one on the Brazilian side. The luxurious Sheraton 

Resort & Spa is on the Argentine side and is 

priced according to its privileged location. Outside 

of the park and a car journey away from the falls 

lie a selection of good hotels ranging in price and 

standard, we like the Loi Suites, the Aldea de la 

Selva, Puerto Bemberg and the Amerian. 

Córdoba and around 

In the heart of Argentina, midway between the 

Andes and the Atlantic coast, lies the city of 

Córdoba, which is surrounded by some 

spectacular hilly landscapes. The city itself is one 

of the oldest in Argentina, although the majority 

of the architecture is now modern. However 

there is an interesting tour that takes in the 

colonial religious buildings that remain. The 

primary reason for visiting this area, however, is 

to spend some time at one of the wonderful 

estancias that lie out of the city. 

LOS POTREROS, NEAR CÓRDOBA 

Estancia Los Potreros is a delightful family-owned 

farm high in the Cordoban hills, where you have 

the unique opportunity to live amongst three 

generations of the Anglo-Argentine owners, and 

experience rural life on a working cattle ranch. 

Because of the house’s remote location, perched 

atop the sierras, the views from foot or 

horseback are spectacular, and you have over 

600 acres of private land to roam around and 

explore. There is also an outdoor swimming pool, 

and after all that fresh air, you will appreciate the 

delicious home-cooked food (all guests take their 

meals together) and the comfort of the en suite 

bedrooms, which are simple, but individual, as 

you would expect from this private home. 

EL COLÍBRI, NEAR CÓRDOBA 

A colonial-style mansion which combines 

traditional materials and state-of-the-art comfort, 

the nine rooms, including three suites, all have 

different beautifully hand-painted designs. It’s a 

great place to enjoy polo, horse riding, trekking 

or mountain biking. Nearby you have the 

opportunity to play golf, birdwatch and fish, as 

well as visit the Jesuit site of Santa Catalina, 

which is just ten minutes away by car. 

Asado, Estancia Los Potreros 


86 

Gauchos and estancias 

The gaucho 

One of the Argentina’s most iconic inhabitants 

is the rugged gaucho – the cowboy. Life and 

the weather can be harsh in the scarcely 

populated wilderness that covers much of the 

centre and south of the country, and the job 

of herding cattle and sheep and of maintaining 

the farmland could only fall to a horseman of 

the utmost skill and resilience. Enter the 

legendary gaucho, woollen beret low over his 

ears against the wind, skin wind- and sun-burnt 

to a deep leathery texture and a love of the 

outdoors in his blood. 

The estancia 

The gauchos’ homes are the estancias, large 

farming estates that powered the Argentine 

economy through its early 20th century 

heyday, many of which today combine their 

agricultural work with welcoming travellers, 

either for relaxation or to witness (or join in) 

the cattle rearing, sheep shearing and 

horseback herding, or to watch and play polo. 

The gauchos and their estancias are an integral 

part of the culture of Argentina. 

The horses 

History has seen the gaucho and the estancias 

through many incarnations, but whatever role 

the gauchos have played they have always had 

one thing in common and that is their 

magnificent horsemanship. This is an aspect 

of estancia life that has been put to good use 

for visitors and allows amazing opportunities 

to live that childhood cowboy dream! You 

could have a short trot around an estancia 

(in a horse-drawn carriage if you don’t fancy 

riding yourself), learn to play a game of polo, 

or take a horseback trek of many days out 

into the wilderness, it is even possible to 

traverse the Andes. 

The experience 

In terms of the accommodation at the 

estancias, the differences between them can 

be as vast as the distances that separate them. 

Many of the properties are ancient family 

homes that have only recently opened their 

doors to visitors while others have been 

Typical estancia, Patagonia 

Gauchos at Estancia Los Potreros 

purpose-built as country hotels. While the 

older estancias give you a great sense of 

history their newer counterparts are often 

aimed at the more luxurious end of the 

market. However all will have sweeping 

grounds, horses and gauchos. A visit or a stay 

at an estancia, wherever it is in the country, 

will most likely be based around three things – 

food, including the obligatory ‘asado’ 

(barbeque) lunch; drink, including the 

traditional maté and wine; and horses. 

With a lack of beach destinations in Argentina, 

estancias also fulfil the role of being a place to 

come and relax. Beautifully trimmed gardens 

surrounding swimming pools and the ‘make 

yourself at home’ approach of many owners 

provides a lovely opportunity to take it easy 

during your Argentina trip. 

We like to recommend estancias that have 

some history, be it in the buildings, or in the 

anecdotes of the owners, and we particularly 

like, wherever possible, to use working 

estancias, such as Huechahue and Los 

Potreros, where the owners still carry out the 

day to day work of running their farm 

alongside welcoming guests, providing a truly 

authentic experience. You will find our 

favourites dotted through the Argentina 

pages of this brochure.

Capybara, Iberá wetlands Jabiru stork, Iberá wetlands 

Guira cuckoos, Iberá wetlands Young caiman, Iberá wetlands 

The Iberá Wetlands 

& Misiones 

Esteros del Iberá (Iberá wetlands) is a protected 

area of wetlands, second only to the Pantanal in 

Brazil in size. This network of lagoons and creeks 

is best explored by canoe and affords some 

wonderful wildlife viewing. Caiman, capybara, 

marsh deer, otter, anaconda and over 300 species 

of bird all inhabit this peaceful haven that the 

Guarani Indians originally named ‘Bright Waters’. 

In neighbouring Misiones province, and across the 

border from the wetlands in Paraguay lie Jesuit 

missions that date back to the 17th and 18th 

centuries and have been recovered from the 

emerald forest. The most impressive of these are 

San Ignacio Miní and Santa Ana. The ruins here 

make a logical mid-point stop for those visiting 

Iberá and the Iguazú Falls. 

San Ignacio Miní 

ESTANCIA RINCÓN DEL 

SOCORRO, IBERÁ WETLANDS 

Estancia Rincon del Socorro is a large former 

cattle ranch that has been made into a nature 

reserve. It is a small, refined ecolodge with six 

rooms in the main house and three small 

bungalows, all with private bathrooms, sitting 

room and small kitchenette. The main house has 

a communal living room, veranda and terrace 

dining area. When not out exploring the 

wetlands, guests can make use of the swimming 

pool and there is a BBQ area for those famous 

Argentine ‘asados’ which are enjoyed with 

homemade breads and Argentine wine. 

DON ENRIQUE LODGE, 

MISIONES PROVINCE 

This tiny lodge in the heart of Misiones province 

is a true haven for nature lovers and those 

seeking peace. It is composed of just four 

separate cabins along the Paraiso River, all have 

their own decking by the river and each has a 

rustic decor that complements the woodland 

surroundings. The owners live at the lodge and 

provide great hospitality. They can organise 

trekking or aquatic activities and there is also a 

lookout tower to do some birdwatching. 

Rincon del Socorro 

POSADA DE LA LAGUNA, 

IBERÁ WETLANDS 

Posada de la Laguna is situated in the small town 

of Carlos Pellegrini, which lies within Esteros del 

Iberá. The lodge overlooks a lagoon and is 

surrounded by lovely gardens. The bedrooms are 

simple but comfortable and the shaded verandahs 

offer a cool place to relax. Guests can explore 

the area by boat, foot and on horseback. 

POSADA AGUAPÉ, 

IBERÁ WETLANDS 

Posada Aguapé is located on the shores of the 

Iberá Lagoon which allows guests to encounter 

the local wildlife within a few metres of their 

room. There is a wide range of excursions 

venturing further afield for more wildlife spotting. 

The owners provide excellent hospitality in their 

beautifully decorated lodge which has 12 double 

rooms and a swimming pool. The food is 

homemade and locally sourced where possible. 


San Francisco Church, Salta 

The Northwest 

Up in this far-flung corner of Argentina lie some 

great and magnificent swathes of land, which 

scenically and culturally have more in common 

with Argentina’s Andean neighbours than the 

modern, European influenced areas further south. 

A variety of landscapes await – a lunar vista north 

of the city of Salta, a place of ochre deserts 

dotted with cacti, and gorges striped with many 

different hues. South of Salta there are green river 

valleys and vineyards mixed into the dry foothills 

of the Andes. Exploring this area can be as 

energetic or relaxed as you would like; you can 

base yourself in one place and go out for the day, 

or you can move about the countryside on a 

road trip, staying at some of the excellent hotels 

on the way. 

Salta 

Salta, known locally as ‘Salta La Linda’ (Salta the 

beautiful), is the starting point for explorations 

of the northwest, but is an interesting place in 

itself to explore for at least a day or two. It has 

an enviable location in the picturesque Lerma 

Valley, and has striking architecture, including 

some of Argentina’s few colonial buildings. Its 

leafy plazas, including the main focalpoint of the 

city, the Plaza 9 de Julio, are a great place to 

people watch from the cafes. 

88 

HOTEL DEL VIRREY, SALTA 

Well located in the centre of Salta and very 

close to the main street with its bars and peñas 

(traditional venues featuring folkloric dancing), this 

is a small and comfortable hotel decorated in a 

traditional colonial style with friendly staff and an 

intimate atmosphere. 

HOUSE OF JASMINES, 

NEAR SALTA 

The House of Jasmines is located in rolling 

farmland close to the city of Salta but feels many 

miles away from it all. Luxuriously comfortable 

rooms, plus a spa and cosy communal areas and 

balcony dining, all mean a pampered stay is 

guaranteed. Guests can saddle up and ride into 

the surrounding mountains or simply stay in the 

grounds to relax. 

The journey between Salta and Cafayate 

LEGADO MITICO, SALTA 

Comfortable and interesting accommodation in 

a central location, the Legado Mitico has 11 large 

rooms, each with classy decoration based on an 

Argentine historical figure. All have small balconies, 

and the hotel has a delightful central courtyard. 

Purmamarca and around 

Heading north out of Salta you’ll pass giant cacti, 

grazing vicuña, sculpted rocks and mountains 

striped red, amber, coffee and ochre until you 

reach dazzling salt flats and impossibly tiny 

settlements at nearly 4,000 metres above sea 

level. Purmamarca, a small village set below the 

Hill of Seven Colours, is the base to travel further 

north into the awe-inspiring scenery of the 

Humahuaca Gorge, visiting quiet oasis villages, 

the ruins of a hilltop fortress, exquisite churches 

and some of the most important archaeological 

sites in the country. The ‘Train to the Clouds’ is 

one way of experiencing all of this amazing 

scenery in a day, travelling along a railtrack that is 

nothing short of an engineering marvel, but its 

operation tends to be intermittent. Other options 

include travelling by jeep close to the same route, 

or making your own way around by hire car. If 

you wish to combine Argentina with Chile, we 

can organise for you to cross the high puna from 

this point into the Chilean Atacama Desert, in a 

heady day’s journey by road.

Purmamarca and the Hill of Seven Colours Cacti in the Humahuaca Gorge 

Vineyards near Cafayate Salt flats, near Purmamarca Patios de Cafayate, Cafayate 

EL MANANTIAL DEL SILENCIO, 

PURMAMARCA 

Facing the Hill of Seven Colours is the charming 

El Manantial del Silencio, a property simply 

decorated in keeping with the building’s white 

colonial style, with flagstone flooring, huge rugs 

underfoot, and a serene feel. The hotel is set in 

its own large gardens, with enormous windows in 

the restaurant allowing diners to appreciate the 

rural views while tucking into the trademark llama 

medallions. 

LA COMARCA, PURMAMARCA 

Built completely in keeping with the style of the 

rest of the town and even reflecting the colours 

of the surrounding mountains, La Comarca is a 

lovely and relaxing place. The rooms are spacious 

and comfortable with traditional furniture. 

CABAÑAS DEL COLORADO, 

PURMAMARCA 

These cabins are almost completely camouflaged 

by the red rock that looms behind them. From 

the outside they look like simple mud huts but 

inside they are very comfortable apartments with 

great decor and their own kitchenette. From the 

hotel it is only a five minute walk into the little 

town of Purmamarca or to the famous Hill of 

Seven Colours. 

Cafayate, Molinos and Cachi 

South of Salta lies the stunning Calchaquí Valley, 

a place of sun dappled vineyards, and the towns 

of Cafayate, Molinos and Cachi, all of which have 

something to offer the visitor, be it archaeological 

museums, adobe churches and, most of all, many 

wineries. The foothills of the Andes here, as with 

Mendoza, provide fantastic soils for wine 

production. There are several vineyards and 

wineries that can be toured, and many types of 

wine to be tasted. This is an area to explore at 

leisure, taking roads which wind through 

mountain passes above which condors glide, 

or head arrow-straight through the vine-clad hills. 

Travel around this area can be done with a guide 

and driver, or with your own self-drive vehicle 

along the famous Ruta 40 (see the self-drive 

feature on page 91). 

LA MERCED DEL ALTO, CACHI 

On the edge of the small town of Cachi, La 

Merced del Alto has the air of a traditional 

monastery, despite being a purpose built 

property. The effect is startlingly good with cool 

high-ceilinged rooms and immaculately kept 

grounds. There is a great restaurant and bar in 

the main building while the grounds are home 

to the pool, Jacuzzi and spa. 

ESTANCIA COLOMÉ, MOLINOS 

Estancia Colomé is a charming property with a 

stunning location in the heart of this beautiful part 

of Argentina. It is set amid extensive vineyards and 

grounds where guests can ride horses, trek, cycle 

or just relax with a good glass of wine. The 

property has a cosy library and attractive patios 

and its nine rooms are tastefully decorated. Within 

the grounds is a museum with a collection of art, 

plus it is possible to visit the Bodega Colomé. 

LA CASA DE LA BODEGA, 

NEAR CAFAYATE 

A simple option in this beautiful part of the 

country, La Casa de la Bodega offers good 

accommodation in eight rooms, most with views 

to the vineyards. There is ample communal space, 

and your hosts will be delighted to show you 

around their vineyards and winery. 

PATIOS DE CAFAYATE, CAFAYATE 

Patios de Cafayate Hotel & Spa enjoys spectacular 

views of the Calchaquí Valley vineyards, and is 

designed with an emphasis on unique and local 

designs which highlight the traditional cultures of 

the area. The hotel has extensive gardens and 

antique colonial patios, and the 26 guest rooms 

are decorated with antique furniture. Guests can 

enjoy the hotel’s spa facilities and outdoor pool or 

just sit under a tree with a glass of fine wine and 

enjoy the wonderful views. An 18 hole golf course 

is five minutes away. 


Mount Aconcagua 

Mendoza 

Where Argentina rears up into the foothills of 

the Andes, lively Mendoza is at the heart of the 

self-styled ‘land of sunshine and wine’. Spread 

across the valley of the river of the same name, 

Mendoza is a pleasant city with wide tree-lined 

streets, plazas, parks and avenues. The vast 

majority of visitors here have come with one 

thing in mind: the grape, and its world-renowned 

wines. The Mendoza province, while not having 

exclusive rights to Argentina’s output, does lay 

claim to at least 70% of it, thanks to its ideal 

climate and the snowmelt from the Andes. The 

sight of the rows of lush green vines against a 

backdrop of snow-dusted peaks makes this an 

extremely picturesque outing, before you’ve even 

begun to sample the wares! There are a large 

number of bodegas welcoming visitors with 

guided tours, tastings and lunches, and wine buffs 

can make day trips out from Mendoza city into 

the main areas of Maipu, Tupungato and Lujan de 

Bodega La Rural Winery, Maipu, Mendoza 

90 

Autumnal vineyards, near Mendoza 

Cuyo or, better still, stay overnight at a winery 

and explore from there. If you have time, this 

region has other, often overlooked, attractions. 

Heading west, you can take the panoramic ‘Alta 

Montaña’ route into the Andes to view Mount 

Aconcagua, at 6,982 metres, the highest mountain 

in the Americas, and the statue of Christ the 

Redeemer, who stands at 4,000 metres as a 

symbol of friendship between Argentina and Chile. 

A road also climbs over the top of the Andes to 

Santiago, a breathtaking way of travelling between 

the two countries. 

LARES DE CHACRAS, 

NEAR MENDOZA 

Lares de Chacras is a colourful villa-style property 

that accommodates 25 guests and is located 

approximately 15 kilometres outside of the centre 

of Mendoza. The house has a very homely feel, 

with log fires, wooden furniture and large windows 

which look out onto pretty natural surroundings. 

CLUB TAPIZ, NEAR MENDOZA 

Club Tapiz is an elegant retreat, perfect for an 

evening's wine tasting in a pleasantly relaxed 

atmosphere. Built in 1890 and surrounded by 10 

hectares of vineyards this renovated traditional 

house has 7 simply furnished but comfortable 

rooms. Guests can also enjoy a spa and swimming 

pool that enjoy terrific views of the Andes. 

CAVAS WINE LODGE, NEAR 

MENDOZA 

Situated amongst vineyards with views to the 

Andes, the Cavas Wine Lodge is a luxurious place 

to escape to for a few days to enjoy some fine 

wine, great food and exemplary service. The 14 

rooms are beautifully appointed and it has lovely 

rooftop areas to drink wine and watch the sunset. 

For those who like to be a bit more energetic 

there are a wide range of activities available, 

including trekking in the foothills of the Andes. 

Vineyards near Mendoza

Self-drive in Argentina 

As it is the eighth largest country in the world, 

exploring all of Argentina’s vast swathes of 

land by car is not an option for most visitors, 

but there are wonderful pockets of the 

country that make for excellent self-drive tours 

for those who like to be independent, and 

have an adventurous spirit. It is not for the 

faint-hearted however, and experience is 

essential; many roads are gravel, sign posts are 

not especially common and local drivers are 

not known for their adherence to the rules of 

the road. A lot of the driving is on or around 

Argentina’s famous Ruta 40 (Route 40), a road 

that travels more or less the length of the 

country, and it was along stretches of this 

route that a young Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara 

travelled by motorbike, his diaries reveal that 

much of what he saw along the route fired 

his revolutionary spirit. 

Northwest Argentina 

The northwest of the country offers perhaps 

the most dramatic experience for the selfdriver. 

There is a logical route running south 

from Salta, the first part of which takes you 

through an ever-changing landscape to Cachi. 

Along the way you’ll pass through sheer-sided 

valleys, open farmland, small pockets of jungle 

and ochre desert, whilst condors circle 

effortlessly on the thermals above the white 

adobe houses of the small villages you pass. 

From Cachi you follow Ruta 40, into the wine 

region that surrounds Cafayate. On the edge 

of the desert you will find the wineries that 

produce some of the country’s most 

interesting wines. Not far from here is 

Quilmes, the location of some stunning Jesuit 

ruins and home to the nation’s favourite beer. 

Patagonia 

Nestling in the heart of Argentina’s Lake 

District is a lovely journey that links the small 

town of San Martín de los Andes to its bigger 

neighbour, Bariloche. The trip is known as the 

‘Route of the Seven Lakes’, and apart from the 

lakes, it also winds through picturesque, 

forested hills. Continuing south from Bariloche 

it is possible to pick up Ruta 40 to travel into 

the heart of Welsh Patagonia and the towns 

of Trevelín and Esquel. Here you will find the 

Patagonian Express steam train that has been 

running through the region for nearly a 

Lake District road Typical Patagonian road 

Patagonian road, near El Chaltén 

century. For the really adventurous it is 

possible to drive deeper into the vast 

Patagonian wilderness by following Ruta 40 

south to El Calafate and on until it can go no 

further – at the world’s most southerly city of 

Ushuaia the road stops at the Beagle Channel. 

Península Valdés 

This bulbous lump of featureless Patagonian 

desert jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean is 

home to some of the most spectacular wildlife 

viewing opportunities in South America, from 

Magellanic penguins and elephant seals to the 

majestic southern right whales. As a self-drive 

destination the freedom that a car offers could 

be invaluable - there is only one road around 

the peninsula making it impossible to get lost 

and travelling at your own pace allows you 

spend all day on one beach waiting for that 

magical moment when an orca might surf up 

the beach and grab a sea lion. 


Lake District scenery 

Lake District 

On the northern edge of Patagonia, Argentina’s 

Lake District is a beautiful area of glacial lakes, 

emerald forests and extinct snow-capped 

volcanoes. Often compared to the picture-perfect 

scenery of Switzerland because of its clean, crisp 

air, abundance of flowers and glittering waters, 

this region nonetheless has a very distinct flavour 

that is all its own. There are three areas of the 

Lake District that are most often visited: 

Bariloche, San Martín de los Andes and, between 

the two, the chic resort of Villa La Angostura. 

Peuma Hue, near Bariloche 

92 

Bariloche 

Bariloche is the main centre of the southern 

Lake District and an ideal base from which to 

explore the abundance of pristine national parks 

throughout this area. The town has an Alpine feel 

(in the winter it becomes a popular ski resort) 

and a wide range of accommodation options, 

meaning it has many more visitors than its smaller 

northern neighbour, San Martín de los Andes. 

In Bariloche you can take a chairlift ride to soak 

up panoramic views of lakes and volcanoes 

stretching as far as the eye can see, go hiking and 

picnicking along woodland trails, raft in the local 

rivers, or explore at your own pace with a hire 

car. Another breathtakingly scenic route across 

the Chilean border starts in Bariloche: the Lake 

Crossing takes you by road and a succession of 

lake ferries to the town of Puerto Varas. 

PEUMA HUE, NEAR BARILOCHE 

Built on the shores of Lake Gutierrez, and set 

inside the idyllic landscapes of Nahuel Huapi 

National Park, Hostería Peuma Hue is a unique 

accommodation option just outside Bariloche. 

Its grounds include three kilometres of lakeshore 

at the foot of a steep mountain, with pristine 

forests, streams and waterfalls, and many acres 

of valley and forest for wandering at leisure. 

The accommodation itself is a charming personal 

blend of rusticity and comfort with the four 

wooden buildings containing 12 guest rooms. 

Nahuel Huapi Lake, Bariloche 

LOS JUNCOS, NEAR BARILOCHE 

A hidden treasure located 20 kilometres from 

Bariloche and overlooking some of the most 

beautiful scenery in the region, Los Juncos is a 

wonderfully informal place to stay where you will 

immediately be made to feel at home by the 

hosts. With just five rooms it has a relaxed and 

friendly atmosphere. 

HOTEL ALDEBARÁN, 

NEAR BARILOCHE 

Located on the San Pedro Peninsula, 23 kilometres 

from the town of Bariloche, the Aldebarán is 

surrounded by lush scenery. The property has ten 

well-appointed rooms overlooking the Nahuel 

Huapi Lake. The restaurant is highly 

recommended, and has a wood-fired mud oven 

used for preparing gourmet dishes, and traditional 

Argentine barbeques are also offered. There is a 

spa equipped with hydro-massage, massage room 

and sauna, plus health and beauty treatments.

Sea lions, Península Valdés Magellanic penguins, Punta Tombo 

Villa La Angostura Southern right whale, off Península Valdés 

EL CASCO, NEAR BARILOCHE 

11 kilometres from Bariloche, Hotel El Casco has 

33 rooms with spectacular views across Nahuel 

Huapi Lake. The rooms are all well equipped and 

each boasts beautiful pieces of art by prestigious 

Argentinian artists, the gardens of the hotel also 

have displays of over 40 sculptures. The health 

club has an excellent range of facilities including 

a fantastic outdoor/indoor swimming pool and 

the restaurant offers elaborate cuisine designed 

by a top Argentinian chef. 

LAS BALSAS, VILLA LA 

ANGOSTURA 

Las Balsas Gourmet Hotel & Spa is an exclusive 

retreat on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi that 

is designed to give its guests the ultimate in 

pampered comfort and peace. In the winter 

months (June to August) the hotel is a great 

base for ski trips in the surrounding area. 

LA ESCONDIDA, VILLA LA 

ANGUSTURA 

Luxurious yet relaxed and informal, La Escondida 

has a crisp modern design in both the building 

and decoration. Located on the shores of Lake 

Nahuel Huapi, the property is ideally placed for 

excursions into the surrounding countryside, or 

for simply relaxing and enjoying the view. 

San Martín de los Andes 

This is great horse riding country and there are 

several trails ranging from a day to a week or 

more that are highly recommended for 

experienced horse-riders. The area also has some 

lovely estancias, including Estancia Huechahue 

(see below), from where you can ride into the 

spectacular Lanín National Park, and Tipiliuke 

Lodge, a great place for riding and fly-fishing. In 

the town itself we like Casa Eugenia, a good value 

option with a simple charm. 

ESTANCIA HUECHAHUE, NEAR 

SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES 

About 70 kilometres east of San Martín de los 

Andes lies the working estancia of Huechahue. 

Explore the beautiful scenery on horseback, riding 

through vast expanses of meadow to the base of 

the Andes and watch condors and eagles soaring 

over ancient Indian burial caves where primitive 

drawings can still be seen on the walls. You can 

join the gauchos working the cattle and enjoy a 

traditional barbecue lunch, the asado, or spend a 

sunny day rafting down the river, stopping for 

lunch and a swim in a calm pool or try fishing 

for the famed wild trout. 

Península Valdés and around 

This wild and treeless tag of land, loosely linked 

to the mainland and reaching out into the South 

Atlantic, is a UNESCO-protected nature reserve 

that is home to a large variety of wildlife. Whales, 

penguins and elephant seals make up part of the 

profusion of marine life, whilst guanacos, rheas 

and armadillos roam around on the land. 

Southern right whales can be spotted during their 

breeding season of June to November, orca may 

be spotted from November to April, and August 

to October is the best time to observe the 

elephant seals. There are estancias where you can 

stay on the isthmus itself, or base yourself in the 

town of Puerto Madryn, which in 1865 was the 

site of the first Welsh landing in the area. Their 

legacy remains today: Welsh-speakers, tearooms 

and Eisteddfods add a distinctive cultural flavour 

to the region. Another attraction is the noisy 

colony of Magellanic penguins at Punta Tombo. 

Wild flowers near Bariloche 


Perito Moreno Glacier, El Calafate 

Perito Moreno and 

Los Glaciares National Park 

The magnificent centrepiece of Los Glaciares 

National Park is the creaking hulk of ice that is 

the Perito Moreno Glacier. Its age-old turquoise 

folds and white peaks have advanced into Lago 

Argentino, pausing for now in a frontage that is 

five kilometres across and 60 metres high. From 

an observation platform or a boat a safe distance 

away, listen for an eerie creak which indicates a 

large chunk of ice is about to calve off and crash 

noisily into the milky waters of Lago Argentino, 

where it then drifts idly away. For a different 

view, we can arrange trekking on the glacier 

itself where the crunchy meringue-like ice is 

punctuated by glowing sapphire crevasses. 

Other glaciers worth a visit are those of Upsala 

and Onelli, visited on a day trip out by boat to 

the northwestern end of Lago Argentino. Your 

base for excursions in this area of the park will 

be around the glacier itself, or in and around 

the thriving town of El Calafate. 

Patagonia Rebelde, El Calafate 

94 

PATAGONIA REBELDE, 

EL CALAFATE 

Built in the style of an old railway station, and 

resembling a museum more than a hotel, 

Patagonia Rebelde is a unique property offering 

value and charm. Its eight small rooms are located 

on the second floor, as the first floor is given 

over to the lounge and bar. This is an unusual 

and quirky property that sheds light on the history 

of this area of Patagonia. 

EOLO, NEAR EL CALAFATE 

Located 30 kilometres from El Calafate on a hill 

rising above the Anita Valley is the Eolo Lodge, 

perched on 3,000 hectares of its own land. The 

lodge affords beautiful views across Lago 

Argentino and on a clear day, as far as Chile’s 

Eolo, near El Calafate 

famous Torres del Paine. Based on the style of a 

traditional Patagonian estancia with a modern 

twist, Eolo’s 17 rooms are comfortable and stylish, 

whilst its communal living areas are ideal places to 

enjoy the talks about the local flora and fauna or 

just to curl up with a book and relax. 

LOS NOTROS, PERITO MORENO 

GLACIER 

Los Notros has a privileged location opposite 

the dramatic Perito Moreno Glacier. Named after 

a flower that grows locally, Los Notros has 32 

rooms, many of which have views over the lake 

to the glacier. They are decorated with antique 

furniture and pictures, and so have a rustic feel. 

The terrace is a wonderful location to relax with 

a drink and admire the lake and glacier view.

Perito Moreno Glacier 

El Chaltén & Fitzroy 

El Chaltén is a small village at the northern tip of 

Los Glaciares National Park that acts as a base 

for the climbing and hiking visitors to the Fitzroy 

Massif. It has a relaxed and friendly feel, with an 

interesting mix of architectural styles and a 

fabulous setting. The surrounding area is 

challenging but rewarding trekking country, with 

the 3,400 metre Mount Fitzroy as its jagged 

centrepiece, a stark and soaring piece of granite. 

For accommodation options we like the cosy, 

good value Hosteria El Puma, or for something 

a little more luxurious, Los Cerros. 

Mount Fitzroy 

Lighthouse, Ushuaia Lupins, Ushuaia Ushuaia 

Walking near Mount Fitzroy 

Ushuaia & Tierra del Fuego 

The Andes finally slide into the sea at the 

bottom of the archipelago at the very tip of 

South America. The name of the biggest island 

is Tierra del Fuego, ‘Land of Fire’, which 

conjures up images of frothing waves, howling 

gales and isolation, and whilst this is not 

entirely the case, the area certainly has a windy 

end-of-the-world feel. 

The heart of the island is the lively city of Ushuaia, 

whose colourful houses spill down from the sides 

of imposing snowy mountains before stopping 

abruptly at the shores of the icy Beagle Channel. 

Ushuaia is the base for exploring the region’s 

attractions such as Lapataia National Park, the 

‘Train to the End of the World’ in Tierra del 

Fuego National Park, trips out with the seabirds 

on the Beagle Channel, and also a visit to the 

historic Estancia Harberton which was built by a 

British missionary on one of the farthest 

outposts of the continent. There is a range of 

accommodation options in and around the city, 

catering to a variety of tastes and budgets. 

Cruising from Ushuaia 

Ushuaia is the embarkation and 

disembarkation point for many curious 

and intrepid travellers. The Cruceros 

Australis cruise operation (see page 110) 

takes its guests on a winding route 

around the bays and inlets of this 

dramatic area of glaciers and wildlife. 

For more adventure, Ushuaia is also 

the starting point for trips down to the 

‘White Continent’ of Antarctica 

(see pages 120-122). 


Iguazú Falls 







Please call one of our Argentina specialists to 


Telephone: 01993 838 630 


Due to its vastness, comprehensive itineraries 

around Argentina will involve several internal 

flights, but our specialists will ensure that the 

idiosyncrasies of the airline schedules are taken 

into account. Buenos Aires still acts as a hub 

for many domestic flights, so what looks a 

straightforward journey can be longer than one 

would expect. Travel by road between different 

destinations is only an option in certain places 

(such as the northwest and southern Patagonia), 

due entirely to the huge distances that need to 

be covered. 

96 

When to go 


✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ 





Most of Argentina has seasons that are the 

opposite of the northern hemisphere’s, but as 

you would expect in a country of this size, distinct 

regions have climates all of their own. Therefore 

the best time of year to travel will depend largely 

on the areas you wish to visit, for example 

Patagonia’s peak travel season is from October 

to April, although travel outside of this time is 

possible if you wrap up warm. The northern 

areas of Iguazú, the wetlands and Salta are 

lovely all year round. 



Prices 



for your trip to Argentina on our website, 

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss 

your plans. 

Bariloche 

Perito Moreno 

Glacier 

El Calafate 

Classic Argentina 

A trip that takes in the varied sights and icons for 

which Argentina is famous – from gauchos to 

glaciers, and wine to waterfalls. Begin in vibrant 

Buenos Aires and from there fly down into 

deepest Patagonia to marvel at glaciers before 

coming back northwards via the gentle picturepostcard 

scenery of the Lake District to the wineproducing 

area around Mendoza. 

Day 1 Fly from the UK to Argentina. 

Day 2 Arrive in Buenos Aires, afternoon at 

leisure to explore. 

Day 3 A morning city tour, including Eva 

Peron’s tomb in the Recoleta 

cemetery and the La Boca district. 

Day 4 At leisure in Buenos Aires – maybe 

take a tango lesson? 

Day 5 Fly to El Calafate in southern 

Patagonia. 

Day 6 A trip to visit the mighty Perito 

Moreno Glacier including a trek on 

the ice itself (age restrictions apply). 

Day 7 Free time in El Calafate. 

Day 8 Fly to Bariloche in the heart of the 

Argentinian Lake District. 

Days 9-10 Explore the beautiful region by car, 

horseback or foot, depending on 

your preference. 

Day 11 Fly to Iguazú, via Buenos Aires. 

Day 12 Explorations of these magnificent 

waterfalls. 

Day 13 Fly to São Paulo in Brazil to connect 



Iguazú 

Buenos 

Aires 

São Paulo 

Stay longer 

If you enjoy fine wine and good scenery then 

Mendoza can be added to this trip. Indulge 

yourself with some exploring around the 

vineyards and of course some wine tasting. 

Alternatively head for one of Brazil's southern 

beaches for a couple of days of relaxing.

PARAGUAY 

ARGENTINA 

Cities and Waterfalls 

This short trip shows you the vibrant sights of 

two of Latin America’s greatest cities, with the 

bonus of a visit to the thundering Iguazú Falls in 

between. Experience the wine, steak and tango of 

Argentina’s capital before moving to the waterfalls, 

then end your trip in Brazil’s exciting Rio de 

Janeiro, visiting the statue of Christ the Redeemer 

and relaxing on its golden beaches. 

Day 1 Fly from the UK to Buenos Aires. 

Day 2 Arrive in Buenos Aires, and transfer 

to your hotel. 

Day 3 Explore the city’s diverse 

neighbourhoods, dine out in Palermo 

and enjoy some tango in La Boca. 

Day 4 More time to get to know Buenos 

Aires. It’s a cultural city with a wealth 

of museums and galleries. 

Day 5 Transfer to the airport for your flight 

to Iguazú. 

Day 6 Time exploring the mighty waterfalls. 

Day 7 Fly to the exciting city of Rio 

de Janeiro. 

Day 8 Enjoy a guided tour of Rio. 

Day 9 More time to explore Rio’s beaches, 

its galleries and museums and try 

some of its great restaurants. 

Day 10 Transfer to the airport for your 

flight home. 


Stay longer 

Iguazú 

URUGUAY 

BRAZIL 

Buenos Aires 


Take a more active approach to your trip with 

tango lessons in Buenos Aires or head out to one 

of the country's famous estancias close to the 

capital. In Rio, explore the city with your guide by 

bike or climb to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain 

to take in the views. Extend your trip with some 

beach time in Brazil by exploring the nearby 

Green Coast. 

Valparaiso 

Santiago 

Coast to Coast from 

Chile to Argentina 


Starting in the quirky port town of Valparaíso 

on the Pacific and ending in the vibrant capital 

of Buenos Aires on the Atlantic, this trip takes 

you on an incredible journey across the Andes 

via the heart of the wine-producing areas of 

both countries. 

Day 1 Fly from the UK to Chile. 

Day 2 Arrive in Santiago, transfer to 

Valparaíso. Afternoon at leisure. 

Day 3 Explore the historic and bohemian 

port town. 

Day 4 Return to Santiago, and an afternoon 

tour of the city. 

Day 5 A full day’s journey across the Andes 

to Mendoza in Argentina, past South 

America’s highest peak, Aconcagua. 

Day 6 A full day’s exploration of the local 

vineyards, including lunch and tastings. 

Day 7 Free time in and around Mendoza. 

Day 8 Fly to Argentina’s magnificent capital 

of Buenos Aires. 

Day 9 A full day tour of the city. 

Day 10 At leisure to further explore the 

barrios of Buenos Aires. 

Day 11 Begin your journey home. 


Stay longer 

It is easy to add the stunning waterfalls of Iguazú 

to this itinerary by flying there at the end of your 

time in Buenos Aires. A couple of days can be 

spent exploring the waterfalls, set amongst lush 

tropical rainforest. 

Lago Argentino 

Mendoza 

ARGENTINA 

Buenos Aires 

Cachi 

Northwest Argentina 

Explored 

A lesser-visited area of Argentina, the northwest 

region is a fascinating mix of desert scenery, 

colonial architecture, Andean culture and some of 

the highest altitude wineries in the world. This trip 

explores by road, either on a guided trip, or as an 

independent self-drive. Finish by spending some 

time in the unmissable city of Buenos Aires. 

Day 1 Fly from the UK to Argentina. 

Day 2 Arrive in Argentina and connect with 

a flight to Salta. Afternoon at leisure. 

Day 3 A tour of the city of Salta, known 

in Argentina as ‘Salta La Linda’ 

(Salta the Beautiful’). 

Day 4 Travel by road or train through 

stunning Andean scenery to the town 

of Purmamarca. 

Day 5 Visit the Humahuaca gorge and 

return by road to Salta. 

Day 6 Head southwest of Salta by road, 

through scenery that ranges from 

deep valleys, jungle and open desert 

savannah, to the tiny town of Cachi. 

Day 7 Continue along the famous Ruta 

40 road into the northern reaches 

of the wine-producing area 

around Cafayate. 

Day 8 A leisurely road trip back to Salta. 

Day 9 Fly to Argentina’s magnificent capital 

of Buenos Aires. 

Day 10 A full day tour of the city, and an 

evening tango show. 



Stay longer 

Cafayate 

Buenos Aires 

If you have an interest in wildlife, then a day’s 

drive east from the dramatic scenery of the 

northwest of the country takes you to the Iberá 

wetlands, where you can stay in a charming 

estancia or posada and explore the creeks and 

lagoons in search of wildlife such as caimen, 

capybara and anacondas. 

www.audleytravel.com/argentina ● 01993 838 630 ● Argentina 97 

Salta 

ARGENTINA

98 

Patagonia 

The word ‘Patagonia’ conjures up images of 

isolated, windswept lands that have intrigued 

and inspired explorers, pioneers, writers and 

travellers for centuries. 

Geography 

Patagonia accounts for around a third of the 

landmass of Chile and Argentina. Stretching 

across both countries, this vast cone of territory 

is the funnel through which the last vestiges of 

the continent taper to its tip, and to the ends 

of the earth. Appropriate, then, that this region 

encompasses some of the globe’s most 

dramatic landscapes. Beginning with the 

relatively gentle scenery of the Lake District, 

where snow-capped volcanoes overlook 

crystal-clear waters, and ending with icy fjords, 

granite peaks and creaking glaciers, Patagonia 

covers over 400,000 square kilometres. 

Guanaco, Torres del Paine, Chile 

Landscapes vary significantly between Chile and 

Argentina; whereas northerly Chilean Patagonia 

is densely forested and, receiving a large amount 

of rainfall, feels green and wild, Argentine 

Patagonia comprises plains of barren semi-arid 

steppe. This area is in fact a cold winter desert; 

protected as it is by the ‘rainshadow’ effect of 

the Andean mountain range. Nearer to the very 

south of the continent both sides become more 

jagged and desolate. Vast swathes of these 

Patagonian landscapes have been given national 

park status, and UNESCO has declared two 

areas to be World Heritage sites: Los Glaciares 

National Park and the Valdés Peninsula, both 

on the Argentinian side. 

People and history 

Legend has it that Patagonia’s name came from 

Ferdinand Magellan, the Portuguese explorer 

who landed on the shores of Patagonia in 1520. 

Reported to have been astonished by the height 

of the tribes people he encountered, he named 

the Tehuelche ‘Patagons’, using the word ‘pata’, 

meaning feet, to label these ‘giants’. It is believed 

the Tehuelche people were one of a number of 

indigenous tribes that had inhabited the region 

since 9000 BC. Descendants of another tribe, 

the Mapuche, still live in Chilean Patagonia today. 

Up until the late 1800s, before the construction 

of the Panama Canal, southern Chile and 

Los Glaciares National Park, near El Chaltén, Argentina 

Argentina were important stopping-off points 

for ships navigating around the continent of 

South America. Thus the social history of this 

‘land’s end’ outpost is a rich tapestry of traders, 

mariners, explorers and conquistadors, with its 

very remoteness attracting dreamers and 

fugitives. Patagonia has inspired many a literary 

figure too, from the scientific analyses of 

Darwin’s crew in the 1830s and Lady Florence 

Dixie’s ‘Across Patagonia’ in 1880 to more 

recent travelogues such as Bruce Chatwin’s 

‘In Patagonia’ and Paul Theroux’s ‘The Old 

Patagonian Express’. 

Today, Patagonia has a population of around 

two million (a meagre number considering its 

size), much of this population still reflects the 

colonising influence of the European explorers, 

and includes significant settlements of Welsh 

and German inhabitants, among others. As well 

as the flourishing travel industry, principal 

economic activities in Patagonia include oil, 

mining and agriculture, sheep farming and the 

resulting wool production. 

Wildlife 

Despite the harsh emptiness of much of the 

Patagonian landscape, most visitors will spot 

several hardy species of animal and bird. On 

land one of the most frequent sights is the 

pretty guanaco, the wild cousin of the llama,

Tierra del Fuego, Argentina 

often visible stepping daintily through the spiky 

growth of its native habitat. The guanaco is 

hunted by the puma, Patagonia’s stealthy big cat 

that only the luckiest visitor will see, as these 

solitary predators tend to be nocturnal. The 

rhea – South America’s largest bird – is regularly 

seen roaming the grasslands. Flightless but 

nimble runners, they are sometimes called South 

American ostriches, and protect themselves by 

living in groups. Gliding high above them, the 

Andean condor is also a record-breaker. The 

world’s largest bird of prey rules the Patagonian 

skies, using the finger-like feathers at the tips of 

its huge wings to adjust its flight path according 

to the thermals on which it soars. Offshore, 

the waters around Peninsula Valdés are home 

to a host of marine mammals. From June to 

December, southern right whales congregate in 

substantial numbers; around a quarter of the 

world’s population is thought to be based here 

at this time. Magellanic penguins and elephant 

seals are regular residents, and orca appear in 

their midst from November through to April. 

Audley in Patagonia 

A visit to Patagonia, the epitome of ‘the great 

and vast outdoors’, is all about exploring the 

natural world, and all trips will do so, whether 

on foot, horseback, by boat, or by road. 

However you wish to explore we will use our 

first-hand knowledge and experience of 

Patagonia to create the ideal trip, whether you 

wish to do it in relaxing comfort and style, or 

energetically and adventurously, or a 

combination of both. There are lots of lodges 

and hotels scattered throughout the region, 

some in the towns such as Bariloche and El 

Calafate (Argentina) and Puerto Varas and 

Puerto Natales (Chile), but many are out in the 

wilderness. They range from simple properties 

with basic facilities to boutique hotels, from 

working farms to sheer luxury, meaning there is 

something for everyone, whatever your budget. 

You can base yourself in one property and take 

trips out and about from there, or undertake a 

more touring style of trip, although the distances 

involved often make this quite an arduous and 

expensive way of exploring. 

Pacific Ocean 

San Rafael 

Glacier 

Perito 

Moreno 

Glacier 

Which part of Patagonia you head to will 

depend on how you wish to explore. Those 

who want to do some trekking (be it for a day 

or for a week) are best to go to Torres del 

Paine in Chile or to El Chaltén in Argentina, for 

serious horse riders then the estancias in 

northern Patagonia around San Martín de los 

Andes (Argentina) are excellent. For those who 

wish to indulge in a spot of fly-fishing then it is 

best to base yourselves in the Lake District 

region of either Chile or Argentina. Wildlife 

aficionados should head for Peninsula Valdés in 

Argentina. For those who want to just see some 

of the highlights of the region, and don’t wish to 

be too active then Torres del Paine and the 

0 200 miles 

0 

322 kilometres 

Perito Moreno glacier (Argentina) offer some 

breathtaking natural sights, and a range of 

comfortable hotels. Boat travel around the fjords 

and glaciers of Chilean Patagonia, and at the 

very tip of the continent around Tierra del 

Fuego allow gentle contemplation of the 

scenery, and ski trips to Bariloche or San Martín 

de los Andes in the winter months (our 

hemisphere’s summer) provide adrenalin if you 

wish. Finally the open road could beckon, setting 

off in a hire car along Chile’s Carretera Austral 

(Southern highway) or Argentina’s Ruta 40 

allows exploration at your own pace. However 

you choose to explore, you can be sure of the 

wind, the beauty and the spirit of Patagonia. 

www.audleytravel.com/patagonia ● 01993 838 632 ● Argentina 99

Chile 

Chilean legend has it that when God 

had finished creating earth, he walked 

back across the heavens and a little of 

everything that was left; mountains, deserts, 

lakes, glaciers, volcanoes and valleys, trickled 

out through a hole in his pocket, and thus 

Chile was born. So, this implausibly long, 

thin ribbon of land unfurls down the Pacific 

coast of South America and compresses an 

100 

extraordinarily diverse range of terrain 

between its Andean spine on one side, and 

the ocean to the other. Sweeping from the 

world’s highest and driest desert down 

through rolling vineyards, past snow-dusted 

volcanoes, narrow fjords and turquoise lakes 

up to sharp granite peaks towering above 

blue icebergs, this slender slice of land is also 

bursting with culture and charm. Chileans 

are proud and friendly, fiercely protective 

of their traditions, and more than happy to 

enjoy a glass of the fiery national cocktail, 

pisco sour, with visitors. Add to all this the 

mysterious statues of Easter Island, 

marooned five hours’ flight away out in 

the Pacific Ocean, and you have every 

imaginable ingredient for a wealth of 

sights and experiences.

3 

2 

4 

5 

1 

7 

6 

8 


1 Atacama Desert 

A stunning moonscape 

wilderness of volcanoes, salt 

lakes, multi-coloured lagoons, 

hot springs and geysers. 

2 Stargazing, Elqui Valley 

An area with incredibly clear 

night skies, with several 

international observatories 

that can be visited. 

3 Easter Island 

A tiny speck in the vast Pacific 

Ocean, a remote and mystical 

place, famous for the brooding 

stone statues that litter the 

volcanic landscape. 

4 Vineyards and wineries 

The Colchagua Valley is the 

ideal place to start to learn 

about (and taste) some of the 

best wine in Chile. 

5 Lake District 

A pretty region of the bluest 

waters, white-tipped volcanoes, 

waterfalls and ancient forests, 

perfect for gentle hiking, bike 

riding, fishing or just relaxing. 

6 Aisén 

A beautiful and lush region 

with very few visitors, great for 

enjoying outdoor activities and 

stunning scenery. 

7 Torres del Paine 

Chile’s most beautiful 

national park, a magnificent 

place of towering granite 

peaks, turquoise lakes, condors 

and guanacos. 

8 Isla Navarino 

A small island located off the 

southernmost tip of the South 

American continent, for the 

ultimate in peace and quiet. 

Adventure cruising 

As befits a country with such 

a long and varied coastline, 

being on a boat can provide 

some wonderful sights and 

experiences. 

Audley in Chile 

The sheer size and diversity of Chile means 

it is something of a feat to cover all elements 

in one trip. Our specialist knowledge ensures 

that whatever your preference for sights and 

activities, we will strike the right balance for 

you to see as much as possible without 

spending too much time on the road or in 

the air. Due to the length of their shared 

border, Chile lends itself perfectly to a 

combined trip with Argentina. We can advise 

you about the many options for crossing 

from one to the other via the desert in the 

north, Santiago, the Lake District or 

Patagonia, all are remarkably beautiful 

journeys. As well as knowing the classic 

highlights of Chile in considerable depth, we 

pride ourselves on our knowledge of lesserknown 

regions and places to stay, and are 

more than happy to discuss specialist 

interests such as golf, wine, astronomy and 

skiing. Private excursions throughout a trip 

can prove to be rather expensive due to the 

size and remoteness of the country, so we 

can make use of small group tours to keep 

costs down if required. 

Accommodation 

Hotels in Chile are as interestingly varied as 

the country’s distinct regions, and we always 

try to seek out character properties that 

reflect this. The country is home to the 

unique and outstanding Explora hotels, of 

which there are now three, and the Explora’s 

concept of high quality accommodation 

married to explorations of the surrounding 

landscape has inspired a plethora of similar 

properties, all of which are striving for the 

highest standards. Therefore Chile has some 

beautiful and unique hotels dotted 

throughout the country. There are also many 

equally charming, more simple properties, 

offering good value for money and high 

standards of service. 

Find out more 


information about travel in Chile, please see 

pages 114-115. 

☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Chile 


Chile 101

Santiago 

Santiago 

Snow-covered Andean peaks provide Santiago’s 

spectacular backdrop, but today they compete 

for dominance on the skyline with sparkling 

skyscrapers. The capital of Chile is a modern 

metropolis, but a charming one with many 

landscaped parks and peaceful hilltop sanctuaries 

offering calm amid the chaos. Wander the historic, 

civic heart of the downtown area and you’ll come 

across fine museums and churches, the impressive 

18th century government palace and the beautiful 

baroque cathedral. The modern and fast-paced 

commercial centre of Providencia is where you’ll 

find most of Santiago’s glitzy shops, restaurants 

and hotels. There is also the arty Bellavista district, 

from where the cable car ascends to the summit 

of San Cristóbal Hill, affording fantastic views 

over the city to the Andes. 

ACCOMMODATION IN SANTIAGO 

Unlike its neighbour’s capital city of Buenos Aires, 

the concept of boutique hotels has not fully 

caught on in Santiago. Good value yet characterful 

properties are not in abundance, instead what 

Santiago has to offer is a large number of high 

standard international chain hotels. For those 

seeking something more personal at a reasonable 

price we recommend the Hotel Orly, the 

Meridiano Sur and La Rêve, all of which are 

situated in the residential and commercial 

district of Providencia. 

102 

THE AUBREY, SANTIAGO 

The first luxury boutique hotel in Santiago, the 

Aubrey is situated at the foot of the San Cristóbal 

Hill within the Parque Metropolitano, one of the 

six largest urban parks in the world. Three years 

of careful restoration and renovation have 

transformed a historic house into a modern 

luxury boutique hotel with 15 rooms, all with 

their own character, and most with balconies or 

terraces. The outdoor patio terraces overlook 

exotic landscaped gardens, and there is a heated 

outdoor swimming pool. 

Virgin Mary on San Cristóbal Hill 

Meridiano Sur, Santiago 

Skiing 

During our summer months of June to 

September, the ski resorts nestling in the 

Andes (but handily within easy reach of 

Santiago) offer the largest number of 

runs in the southern hemisphere, Valle 

Nevado and Portillo being the most 

renowned. The spectacular views and 

superb standard of snow make Chile an 

increasingly popular destination for ski 

afficionados seeking action out of the 

northern hemisphere season. We can 

arrange stays in the resort hotels for any 

duration, complete with equipment hire 

(skis or snowboards) and lessons if 

required. It is also possible to have a 

day trip to the slopes from Santiago if 

time is short.

Valparaíso 

La Serena 

Valparaíso, Viña del Mar 

and Zapallar 

When you have explored the city of Santiago, 

you could head to the coast for a day, travelling 

through orchards and olive plantations to the 

fascinating seaside town of Valparaíso and its 

fancier neighbour of Viña del Mar. 

Tumbling precariously down dozens of hills to the 

port, Valparaíso is a maze of colourful buildings, 

boulevards and viewpoints, best explored using 

its ancient funicular railways and ‘elevators’. Here 

you can visit one of the homes of Chilean Nobel 

prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda, who was 

inspired by the town’s melting-pot charm and 

eccentricity. If you wish to stay overnight there 

are a couple of characterful properties, Casa 

Higueras and Hotel Zero. Viña del Mar, by 

contrast, is a genteel and fashionable resort that 

has been the weekend retreat of rich Santiago 

folk for generations. 

About two hours further north is the attractive 

and chic resort town of Zapallar. Set on a curved 

sandy bay and backed by lush forests this is a 

perfect place for a couple of relaxing nights. 

Elqui Valley 

La Serena and the Elqui Valley 

La Serena is a cheerful place, a mix of chic 

seafront and artistic old town, surrounded by a 

mystical and remote area of stunning scenery that 

climbs east into the Andes. Famed for having the 

clearest skies in the southern hemisphere, this 

blissfully tranquil area houses a large number of 

observatories, and attracts spiritualists as well as 

astronomers due to its reputedly unusual 

magnetic quality. Observatory visits can be 

arranged for those with an interest in the night 

skies. Tiny and impossibly picturesque villages – 

Montegrande, Vicuña, Pisco Elqui – dot the 

valley’s cultivated slopes and it is in these that 

Nobel prize winner Gabriela Mistral lived and 

taught. This is also the heart of pisco grape 

growing country and a trip here wouldn’t be 

complete without a distillery visit and tasting. 

Zapallar 

Star gazing 

The north of Chile is renowned for its 

exceptionally clear night skies, and 

these atmospheric conditions, along 

with a lack of light pollution and high 

altitude, mean that the country is a 

world leader in astronomy. The scientific 

observation of the universe is 

undertaken in several internationallyfunded 

observatories around La Serena 

and further north in the Atacama 

Desert. There is currently further 

investment scheduled including the 

arrival of the world’s largest telescope, 

and the biggest ground-based 

astronomical project in the world, 

ALMA (Atacama Large Millimeter 

Array), which will be open to visitors. 

The starry skies in Chile can be 

explored by professionals and amateurs 

alike, as several of the observatories 

are open for tours. Typically over 300 

nights a year are suitable for stargazing 

and sky photography, so visitors to 

observatories such as La Silla, El Tololo, 

El Pangue and Cerro Mamalluca should 

be able to enjoy unlocking the secrets 

of the universe! 

www.audleytravel.com/chile ● 01993 838 640 ● Chile 103

Traditional winery, Colchagua Valley 

Wine Regions of 

Central Chile 

Surrounding Santiago to the north, south and 

west lie some of the New World’s finest 

vineyards. The most visited areas lie to the south 

of the city where the beautiful Maipo and 

Colchagua Valleys take most of the glory. These 

valleys can be visited either as a day trip from the 

capital or in more depth if you opt to stay at one 

or more of the wineries. Either option allows you 

the opportunity to explore either with a private 

guide or with your own car. This is a wonderful 

place to relax with stunning views through the 

green valleys up into the Andes. 

CASA SILVA, COLCHAGUA VALLEY 

The Casa Silva vineyard has a wonderful house 

dating back to the late 19th century and oozing 

with character. Along with the fine rooms 

decorated with traditional furniture you’ll find 

peaceful courtyards, a swimming pool and 

decorative fountains as well as a fantastic in-house 

restaurant and bar. In addition there is a rodeo 

and polo field, with stables housing up to fifty 

horses at any one time, offering you the chance 

to either relax or take part in a little activity if the 

mood strikes you. 

CASA LAPOSTOLLE, 

COLCHAGUA VALLEY 

Undoubtedly one of the best hotels in Chile, this 

tiny property on the Clos Apalta vineyard consists 

of just four private cabins on the steep hills of the 

Colchagua Valley. Each is incredibly spacious with 

an open fire and balconies overlooking the vines. 

As a perfect romantic getaway there are few 

places with such spectacular views accompanied 

by such great wine. 

CASA REAL, COLCHAGUA VALLEY 

Built around 1880 this old mansion was the 

showpiece home of the owners of the Santa Rita 

Estate and little expense was spared in creating a 

luxurious dwelling with manicured gardens and 

even their own family chapel. The house is now 

used as a small hotel with 16 spacious and stately 

bedrooms. You can also relax in the wonderfully 

Vintage car, Colchagua Valley Wine cellar 

104 

old fashioned reading rooms or have a game on 

the full sized snooker table in the old smoking 

room, or simply unwind on the terrace which 

is dominated by a beautiful 150 year old 

bougainvillea. 

VIÑA MATETIC, ROSARIO VALLEY 

Nestled in the Rosario Valley between Santiago 

and Valparaíso and on the border of the more 

famous Casablanca Valley, Viña Matetic was once 

thought to be in the worst possible spot for wine 

production. How wrong those predictions were as 

their wines have become regular winners of major 

awards. The lodge offers fantastic service and a 

great mix of tradition and modern convenience.

Chilean wine 

On the land where the Andes meet the Pacific 

in a series of steep-sided valleys that flow 

down to ancient river beds and glacial paths, 

some of the best wines in the world are 

produced. Historically this region of Chile has 

been the fruit bowl of the country, but over 

the last couple of decades there has been a 

significant increase in money invested in what 

is now a flourishing wine industry. Chile has 

now become established in the top ten wine 

producers, by volume, in the world and many 

(professionals and amateurs alike) would put 

them in the top five for quality. It has not been 

an easy road to reach this status however. In 

the 1980s the quality was low and the climate 

and soil dismissed as too poor to produce high 

grade wines. But today, Chile is considered the 

perfect environment for a wide range of wine 

production; this is no longer a country that 

just produces a cheap merlot. 

These days Chile grows a wide variety of 

grapes, mostly red, from chocolaty carmeneres 

to robust cabernet sauvignons and wonderfully 

rounded merlots. In the Colchagua Valley you 

will find some of the best accommodation in 

the region such as the stunning Casa Lapostolle 

(on the Clos Apalta estate) and Casa Real 

(on the Santa Rita estate). For any wine lover 

this area is an essential part of a trip to Chile, 

Grapes, Colchagua Valley 

but if you are a serious connoisseur then you 

must get off the beaten track a little. Travelling 

south from Colchagua you will find the Curico 

and Maule valleys and further south still you 

reach Itata and Bio Bio regions where many 

of the new wines that are on our shelves 

originate. Here you will find Casa Porta and 

their pinot noirs, and organic blends. 

However Chilean wine is not all about the 

reds. With fish featuring heavily in many 

Chilean diets, white wines are a natural 

Owner's cellar, Casa Lapostolle 

complement, and the region west of Santiago 

specialises in this. In the rolling hills that work 

their way down from the mountains to the 

old port town of Valparaíso you will find the 

Casablanca and San Antonio Valleys, home to 

Viña Matetic. It is from here that the sauvignon 

blancs and an increasing number of 

chardonnays are produced. The environment 

here is a perfect blend of fresh sea air and 

mineral-rich soil left behind by millennia of 

seismic activity in the region. 

Whether you are something of a connoisseur 

looking to learn more about wine production 

or you simply appreciate great wine alongside 

lovely scenery and peaceful accommodation, 

then a few hours or days in this area will be 

time well spent. We can arrange trips that 

best suit your level of interest. 

Colchagua Valley vineyard 


Atacama Desert 

The Far North 

The far north of Chile shares not only a border 

with Peru and Bolivia but also a common history 

derived from the pre-Conquest cultures of the 

region. The startling barren landscape holds a rich 

archaeological heritage – here you can discover 

immense geoglyphs, ancient cave art and excellent 

museums in and around the coastal towns of 

Arica and Iquique. To the east, this arid landscape, 

in shades of brown and gold, gives way to the 

foothills of the Andes and rises up to become 

part of the vast altiplano. Here panoramas of 

snow-topped volcanoes, herds of vicuña grazing 

amongst flowers and brightly coloured lakes await. 

Lauca National Park is visually stunning, and is 

en route for travellers who are taking the road 

from La Paz in Bolivia to Chile, via the equally 

sublime Sajama National Park. 

106 


Eerie, austere, remote yet beautiful, never more 

so than at sunrise and sunset when the surfaces 

and the skies turn all manner of improbable hues 

of orange, crimson and gold, Chile’s Atacama 

Desert is so dry that there are many parts of it 

in which no rainfall has ever been recorded. 

This is an unlikely landscape to have a variety of 

attractions, yet the Atacama is a must-see for 

visitors to Chile, and the oasis town of San Pedro, 

at its heart, has some of the most original hotels 

in all of South America. 

After flying into Calama, a mining town with 

Chuquicamata, the largest open cast mine in the 

world in the hills behind it, travel by road through 

rolling swathes of parched lunar landscape to the 

welcoming town of San Pedro de Atacama, the 

base for explorations into the desert. From here 

you will join small guided groups, usually 

organised via your hotel, to marvel at the 

Atacama’s natural spectacles, and to discover 

archaeological sites; ancient mummies, geoglyphs, 

and crumbling ghost towns. Rise before dawn to 

drink your morning coffee at the world’s highest 

geothermal field, and watch the steam from your 

cup rise along with the spurting fumaroles of the 

Tatio geysers. Pick your way across the crunchy 

salt flats to spot the pink flamingos, photograph 

the vivid colours of the Miscanti and Meñique 

Lagoons, and climb the sweeping sand dunes of 

the Valley of the Moon to watch the sun set, 

turning them scarlet as it goes. This desert is an 

active person’s paradise, offering unique terrain 

through which to hike, cycle or horse ride, but it 

is also entirely accessible to those wishing to 

investigate it by vehicle, with the excellent hotel 

options offering total relaxation after an aweinspiring 

day’s exploration. 

Cycling past Licancabur Volcano Spotty llama, Atacama Desert

Vicuña, Atacama Desert 

Church, San Pedro de Atacama Flamingos in front of Licancabur Volcano 

ALTIPLANICO, SAN PEDRO 

DE ATACAMA 

Fifteen minutes walk from the centre of San 

Pedro lies a group of 16 adobe houses created 

out of local wood, mud, straw and stone, the 

typical building materials of the altiplano. This is 

the Altiplanico, which has real character and 

individuality and offers great value. Each of the 

houses are simply decorated, there is a lovely 

outdoor swimming pool and a relaxed café 

and bar. 

EXPLORA EN ATACAMA, SAN 

PEDRO DE ATACAMA 

The original pioneer of the concept of 

exclusive excursions combined with luxurious 

accommodation in San Pedro, the Explora en 

Atacama is the younger sister of the Patagonia 

property (see page 112). The hotel has awardwinning 

modern architecture, and its 50 guest 

rooms are large and well-furnished, and all have 

Jacuzzis. There are broad terraces for relaxing, 

plus a sculptured pool area, all with fine views 

over the nearby volcanoes. The property also 

has its own observatory with a powerful 

telescope for star gazing. 

Tierra Atacama, San Pedro de Atacama 

TIERRA ATACAMA, SAN PEDRO 

DE ATACAMA 

All of the 32 spacious rooms at the Tierra 

Atacama have private terraces and mountain 

views, some facing the mighty Licancabur Volcano. 

The communal dining rooms and terraces are 

warmed by fire pits and the cosy living rooms 

are the perfect place to spend the evening. 

Meanwhile, the spa is luxurious and offers a full 

range of treatments. 

AWASI, SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA 

The Awasi is a beautiful retreat made up of only 

eight cottages, each having a private patio, reading 

sofa, and indoor and outdoor showers. Local 

materials have been crafted to create a unique, 

harmonious space designed for relaxation and 

rest. The Awasi is unique amongst the hotels in 

San Pedro in that it prepares private outings for 

its guests that are customised to ensure 

adventure and surprise. 

ALTO ATACAMA, NEAR 

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA 

The location of the Alto Atacama, in a valley 

surrounded by deep red mountains, gives the 

hotel a real feeling of serenity and remoteness, 

despite being just three kilometres from San Pedro 

de Atacama. As well as a luxurious spa and natural 

thermal pools, six small swimming pools are 

nestled in the landscaped gardens. The 32 rooms 

are warm and stylish, and the hotel also has its 

own observatory within the extensive grounds. 

OTHER ACCOMMODATION 

OPTIONS IN SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA 

Other than the Altiplanico, options for those 

looking for properties that are not at the luxury 

end of the spectrum include the Aldea, Hosteria 

San Pedro de Atacama, Poblado Kimal and the 

Atacama Adventure Lodge. The rooms are simple, 

but most have a swimming pool and all have 

good levels of service. 

Alto Atacama, near San Pedro de Atacama 


Osorno Volcano at sunrise 

The Lake District 

Chile’s Lake District starts in the north at 

Temuco and stretches over 300 kilometres south 

to Puerto Montt, where the gentle lakes end and 

the landscape changes into the harsher face of 

northern Patagonia. It is an impossibly pretty 

region of the bluest waters, white-tipped 

volcanoes, waterfalls and ancient forests. It is 

perfect for hiking, bike riding, fishing, relaxing in 

thermal pools, languorous cruises around fjords 

and glaciers, and the enjoyment of fresh air 

(although be prepared for some rain). You can 

either base yourself at one of the charming hotels 

and take daily excursions, or drive yourself around 

the region (see feature on page 111). 

Church, Puerto Varas 

108 

Pucón and around 

Pucón is the popular and stylish epicentre of all 

activity in the northern lakes area. If you enjoy 

fishing, rafting, rambling, horse riding or would like 

to climb the slopes of the Villarica volcano, then 

this is the place for you. We can arrange car hire, 

or for our local guides to take you and a picnic 

out for the day by road, foot or boat, but if you 

prefer simply to relax and take in the views, 

there is no better place in which to do it. 

ANTUMALAL, NEAR PUCÓN 

Situated two kilometres outside Pucón, set in 

over five hectares of landscaped gardens and 

with its own private beach and dock, is the 

Antumalal hotel. Its low-slung 1950s design was 

very advanced for its time and provided the 

inspiration for the renowned Explora hotels in the 

Atacama and Patagonia. The hotel’s modern style 

is combined with cosy comfort and personalised 

service – the Pollak family have managed it since 

the beginning – and facilities include a heated 

outdoor swimming pool and tennis court. 

Excursions on foot, by boat or on horseback can 

be organised for you by the hotel’s exclusive 

guides. Each of the 16 rooms has a view of 

either Lake Villarrica or the gardens from their 

floor to ceiling windows, as do the restaurant, 

lounge and terrace. 

Puerto Varas and around 

The best place to base yourself to explore the 

southern lakes area is in or around the small town 

of Puerto Varas, with its enviable location on the 

shores of Lake Llanquihue. Famous for the roses 

which bloom all over the town from December 

to March, Puerto Varas is overlooked by the 

conical peaks of Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes 

and is a lovely place to unwind during your travels 

through Chile. Day trips can be arranged to 

Petrohue Falls and the national parks of Vicente 

Perez Rosales and Alerce Andino, the interesting 

settlements of Puerto Octay (its Germanic roots 

reflected in its Bavarian-style architecture) and 

the little lakeside resort of Frutillar, or Chiloé 

Island, a mysterious place of myth and legend. 

Those travelling into Argentina via the famous 

and picturesque ‘Lake Crossing’ will do so from 

Puerto Varas by bus and boat through the 

Andes in one or two days (with a stop 

overnight in Puella). 

CASA MOLINA, NEAR 

PUERTO VARAS 

Ten kilometres out of Puerto Varas, Casa Molino 

has a wonderful location on Lake Llanquihue, with 

stunning views to the nearby Osorno volcano. 

There are 11 rooms, some with fireplaces and 

Jacuzzis and all with views either to the lake or 

to the gardens.

Local farmer, near Puerto Varas Puerto Varas and the Osorno Volcano 

QUINCHO COUNTRY HOME, 

NEAR PUERTO VARAS 

Overlooking Lake Llanquihue ten kilometres from 

Puerto Varas in the opposite direction to Casa 

Molino, Quincho Country Home is an incredibly 

welcoming home from home in the Chilean lakes. 

The house is beautifully designed and decorated, 

and with only four rooms, each guest is attended 

to with great care and attention to detail. 

Quincho Country Home 

Delicious home cooked food with fresh, local 

ingredients is combined with fine wine. Aisén 

Mapuche boy 

Chile’s Southern Highway, begun in 1976 under 

the determined project management of General 

Pinochet, snakes south from Puerto Montt 

through the country’s remote Aisén region down 

to southern Patagonia. The landscape through 

which you pass is dramatic, pristine, and enticingly 

studded with waterfalls, rivers, forests and lakes. 

The road’s romantic ending is a forced one; at the 

tiny hamlet of Villa O’Higgins it can go no further, 

obliged to trail off as the vast Southern Ice Field 

takes over. For those keen on road trips, we can 

organise a hire car and maps (see feature on 

page 111), or we can arrange a guide if you are 

heading for a specific attraction, maybe the towns 

of Cochrane or Coyhaique, the hanging glaciers of 

Queulat, or a cruise through the maze of fjords to 

the mighty glacier on Lake San Rafael. If you are 

short of time, you can fly into the town of 

Balmaceda, which allows easy access to the 

attractions of the region. 

Chiloé Island 

Flower sellers, Puerto Montt Forest and waterfall, Aisén 


AISÉN REGION 

Scattered throughout this lush area are a number 

of rustic lodges which offer comfortable 

accommodation and a great range of outdoor 

activities, so that you can make the most of the 

mountains, glaciers, lakes and rivers. Mallín 

Colorado Ecolodge and Terra Luna are both 

situated on the shores of Lake General Carrera, 

both offer a warm welcome and a range of 

excursions by foot, horseback, bicycle or boat, plus 

fishing trips. Close by, the more luxurious Hacienda 

Tres Lagos also offers adventure activities and 

pampering. All can arrange excursions to the 

Northern Patagonian ice field. The Puyuhuapi 

Lodge & Spa is a more remote property only 

accessible by boat, a journey that provides 

stunning views of the dramatic fjord scenery. 

Icebergs from the San Rafael Glacier 


110 

Chile by water 

Chile’s unique ribbon-like shape gives it over 

4,300 kilometres of coastline stretching down 

the west coast of South America. The bottom 

third of this coastline is a fragmented landscape, 

as if this part of Chile was once dropped on the 

floor and it shattered into a thousand pieces. 

This means that there are many fjords, islets, 

archipelagos and peninsulas to explore, and 

there is no better (indeed there is no other) 

way to explore this fascinating territory than by 

taking to the water. This can be done either as 

a day trip, on a longer journey as a means of 

getting from place to place, or on a relaxing 

cruise as a key part of your Chile trip. 

NAVIMAG 

Navimag operate passenger ferries (carrying 

between 100 and 250 people) between Puerto 

Montt and Puerto Natales, a journey that is 

impossible to complete by road on the mainland 

due to the obstacle of the Southern Patagonia 

Ice Field. They also operate various other routes 

in the area which are ideal for travellers, locals 

and cargo alike. Joining the ferry offers you the 

unique chance to see the fjords and coastline 

of southern Chile go by at a leisurely pace, 

allowing you plenty of time to spot dolphins 

and whales along the way, as you wind your 

way through narrow channels and along the 

side of spectacular glaciers. The atmospheric 

journey takes three nights and leaves you at the 

gateway of Torres del Paine. Cabins are basic 

but food plentiful and community spirit abounds, 

with nightly gatherings to enjoy a pisco sour, 

Chile’s traditional drink. 

SKORPIOS 

The vessels Skorpios II and III follow three 

different routes through the channels and fjords 

of Chilean Patagonia on cruises lasting between 

three and five nights. The itineraries visit the 

fringes of either the Northern or Southern 

Patagonian Ice fields between Puerto Montt and 

Puerto Natales. The boats have a capacity of up 

to 130 passengers, with well-furnished, modern 

en suite cabins on a number of decks, and a 

good menu of local Chilean cuisine. Daily 

excursions by motor launch take you to explore 

the mainland, cruise through the dramatic 

icebergs, or up to the face of huge glaciers. 

NOCTILUCA 

A 20 metre motor yacht which can sail into 

places that the bigger boats cannot, the 

Noctiluca offers a unique and intimate sailing 

experience with personalised itineraries around 

the beautiful and remote Aisén region. 

Noctiluca was constructed on Chiloé Island 

from a unique Patagonian wood that has been 

used for centuries by the local mariners, and 

sleeps four to eight passengers. It has a 

comfortable lounge area, spacious outer decks 

and the food and wine is of the highest quality. 

A truly exclusive experience. 

CRUCEROS AUSTRALIS 

Finally, to the very tip of the continent. The 

Beagle Channel and Cape Horn (weather 

permitting!) are two of the highlights of the 

‘Cruceros Australis’ cruises that sail the waters 

between Punta Arenas in Chile and Ushuaia, 

on Tierra del Fuego in Argentina, on three and 

four night voyages. There are daily excursions 

to see glaciers, elephant seal and penguin 

colonies, plus lectures from the knowledgeable 

guides, as well as evening entertainment. 

Comfortable cabins and plentiful food and 

drink mean these trips are a fabulous way to 

experience some of the remotest parts of the 

continent in a little bit of comfort. The cruises 

operate from September to April, with 

occasional sailings in the winter months. 

Noctiluca 

Skorpios II

Chile by road 

As well as the 4,300 kilometres of coastline, 

Chile’s unique geography also creates some 

wonderful opportunities for road travel, either 

with a driver on some of the more challenging 

terrain, or driving yourself. Independent selfdrive 

in South America as a whole is not always 

the easiest thing in the world, even for 

experienced independent travellers, because of 

undeveloped roads, a lack of ‘road etiquette’ 

and sparse road signs. Chile, however, is an 

exception and offers fantastic opportunities to 

explore under your own steam. The romantic 

notion of driving from top to bottom of the 

country is actually an impossibility though, as 

the Southern Patagonia Ice Field bisects the 

country, and the roads cannot cross it. 

The North 

One of the most spectacular overland trips in 

the world is between southwestern Bolivia and 

Chile’s Atacama Desert. This is a trip where you 

definitely need to be a passenger and let an 

expert who knows the area do the driving, as 

much of it is off-road amongst the Salar de 

Uyuni salt flats (see page 30), volcanoes and 

colourful lagoons. The scenery is breathtaking, 

from seeing the curvature of the earth when 

standing on the dazzling white salt, to the 

descent into the oasis town of San Pedro de 

Atacama. The Explora hotel (see page 107) 

arranges a travesía (‘journey’) from its property 

in San Pedro up through this area, in incredibly 

luxurious style considering the remoteness of 

the terrain. There are also other less expensive 

options for those not staying at the Explora. 

These trips stay in simpler places with less 

creature comforts, but all use sturdy 4x4s, a 

pre requisite for the region. 

The Centre 

Driving yourself from Santiago down to the 

Chilean Lake District is a wonderfully relaxing 

few days along good roads, via some of the best 

wine-producing regions in the country. Once in 

the Lake District, you will find some of the best 

self-driving opportunities in South America, with 

good roads that skirt by emerald green lakes, 

wind around volcanoes and pass through small 

picturesque towns. 

To the north of the region you will find the 

town of Pucón nestled under the Villarrica 

Volcano and as you travel south from here you 

enter one of the most indigenous parts of Chile. 

The Huilo Huilo Nature Reserve lies on the 

other side of the volcano, and is full of ancient 

woodland, remote lakes and a deep sense of 

history and tradition rooted in the Mapuche 

Indian past. Driving south you enter a region 

that was heavily populated by German 

immigrants in the 19th century. This is the most 

commonly visited part of the region, focused 

around the town of Puerto Varas. Having a car 

here allows you the flexibility to explore the 

region at your own pace. 

Typical road, northern Chile 

Driving over into the Argentinian Lake District 

is possible, but one of the quirks of the hire car 

set up is that it can be prohibitively expensive to 

return a hire car to a different country, so we 

would recommend looping back into Chile. 

For the more adventurous there is the option 

of driving further south, down into the Aisén 

region. Mainly on unpaved roads, and with the 

need for some ferries, this can be a challenging 

trip, but it is through some of the most pristine 

areas of Chile, much of it national parks. There 

are lodges along the route, which becomes 

more rugged as you travel south. Finally, you can 

go no further, the road stops at the settlement 

of Villa O’Higgins as the Southern Patagonian Ice 

Field proves an impassable barrier. 

The South 

Below the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, roads 

start up again, and exploring this end of Chile by 

road is all about long journeys across wide open 

expanses of Patagonian steppe. Driving yourself 

around Torres del Paine National Park is an 

interesting way of seeing the magnificent scenery 

at your own pace, giving you a little more 

flexibility to explore on your own rather than 

being in a group. 


Torres del Paine National Park 

Torres del Paine 

National Park 

to Puerto Natales, and then on another 100 

REMOTA, PUERTO NATALES 

kilometres to the park itself where your first An ultra-modern, environmentally-friendly building 

The most famous national park in Chile and all 

of Patagonia, Torres del Paine is remote, rugged 

and windswept. While this makes it lengthy to 

reach and demanding to explore, its seclusion is 

the very essence of its appeal and it is undeniably 

worth the effort. Unless crossing into the park by 

road from Argentina via El Calafate, you will arrive 

by air into Punta Arenas; Chile’s southernmost 

sighting of the eponymous torres (towers) and 

the uniquely smooth and twisted cuernos (horns) 

of the Paine Massif will be unforgettable. Once 

there, the incredible landscape is waiting to be 

explored, either by foot, boat, bike, horse or 

vehicle. We particularly recommend an 

afternoon’s sailing on Lago Grey to approach the 

glacier of the same name, navigating through vivid 

blue icebergs on the way. However you choose 

on the water’s edge to the north of Puerto 

Natales, Remota has comfortable and stylish 

rooms, and large public areas dominated by open 

fires with spectacular views of Seno Ultima 

Esperanza. The hotel aims to show visitors more 

of Chilean Patagonia than a traditional visit to 

Torres del Paine National Park may offer by 

organising trips outside of the main park areas. 

city, a bustling place of multi-coloured houses to explore you will marvel at emerald and 

PATAGONIA CAMP, TORRES 

that resonate with pioneer spirit. You may wish turquoise lakes, waterfalls and grazing guanacos. DEL PAINE 

to stay a night here before or after your time in For those who fancy some trekking you can take Located on the shores of Lago Toro, an hour 

the park itself, in order to break up the long a hard day’s hike to the base of the towers, or a from Puerto Natales and an hour from the 

journey. To get into the park you will travel longer circuit involving camping and up to six famous towers of Torres del Paine, Patagonia 

through the Patagonian steppe for 300 kilometres days’ walking. 

Camp accommodates its guests in ‘yurts’ or 

wooden tents with central heating and en suite 

EXPLORA EN PATAGONIA, 

TORRES DEL PAINE 

facilities. Each yurt has fantastic views and a 

private balcony and a skylight in the roof so you 

Sister to the Atacama hotel, the Patagonian 

Explora may be wildly different in terms of setting, 

but its design, facilities and service are equally 

outstanding. All public areas and the Scandinavianstyle 

bedrooms have views of the lake, mountain 

range or the Salto Chico waterfall. Some rooms 

have Jacuzzis, but there are also open air pools, 

saunas and hot tubs. As in the Atacama, all your 

transportation, meals and excursions are included, 

and the expert guides will share with you their 

knowledge and love of Chile’s most famous 

national park. 

can see the stars while you lie in bed. 

Explora en Patagonia Patagonia Camp 

112

Guanaco, Torres del Paine National Park 

Lago Gray, Torres del Paine National Park 

LODGE CERRO GUIDO, TORRES 

DEL PAINE 

This is a perfect place for keen horse riders to 

experience Patagonia and see parts of the 

national park that very few people are likely to 

experience. Located close to the Argentine 

border, and indeed feeling like something of an 

outpost, the lodge has seven comfortable 

rooms and a restaurant with stunning views 

across the park. 

OTHER ACCOMMODATION 

OPTIONS, TORRES DEL PAINE 

Aside from the accommodation mentioned 

above, which we have chosen for either the 

uniqueness of their setting or service, there are 

other choices that offer comfortable and cosy 

accommodation and are good bases from which 

to explore the area. Our recommendations 

include Hotel Las Torres, Hosteria Lago Grey 

(with its spectacular views over the lake and 

glacier of the same name), the small and 

welcoming Cabañas del Paine and Rio Serrano. 

Easter Island 

Out in the Pacific Ocean, a five hour flight west 

from the Chilean mainland, lies a tiny speck of 

volcanic rock. This is Easter Island, or Rapa Nui 

as it is known to the locals, a place that has 

fascinated traveller and scholars alike for centuries. 

This is due to the squat bodies and brooding 


faces of hundreds of stone statues or ‘moai’ 

that gaze from all corners of the island. A three 

or four night trip to this intriguing destination 

means coming face to face with these moai, 

admiring their form and size and pondering the 

mysteries of why and how they were erected. 

The population centres on the small town of 

Hanga Roa in the southwest of the island, from 

where you can explore the island with a guide, 

or independently, and by hire car, foot or on 

horseback, depending on your preferences 

and budget. 

ACCOMMODATION ON 

EASTER ISLAND 

There are a range of accommodation options 

on Easter Island. The most luxurious choice is the 

youngest of the Explora properties, Explora Rapa 

Nui. Set on a hill that faces the sea in the south 

west of the island, five kilometres from the town 

of Hanga Roa. Volcanic rock from the island and 

wood from the mainland have been used in the 

construction of the property, which has 30 guest 

rooms branching off from the living and dining 

areas. There’s also a bar, massage salon and an 

open-air pool. The Hanga Roa Eco Village & Spa 

is another luxurious option, whilst cheaper 

properties include the Iorana, Otai and Gomero. 

These hotels are without luxurious trimmings, but 

are friendly and relaxed properties, all located in 

and around Hanga Roa. 

Explora Rapa Nui 

Isla Navarino 

The island of Isla Navarino lies at the far 

southern tip of Chile, a place that throughout 

history has been a safe haven for countless ships, 

limping in to gather strength for, or recover 

from, sailing around Cape Horn. Today’s visitors 

are more likely to be adventurous travellers 

looking for somewhere utterly remote to trek 

and spot wildlife, and have a drink in the world’s 

most southerly pub in Puerto Williams, the 

world’s most southerly permanent settlement 

(outside of Antarctica). Isla Navarino is reached 

by a short flight (or long ferry trip) from Punta 

Arenas, and accommodation is at Lakutaia, a 

rustic but comfortable lodge from where you 

can explore the very end of the world. 


Lago Gray, Torres del Paine National Park 







Please call one of our Chile specialists to start 


Telephone: 01993 838 640 


Travel around such an unusually-shaped country 

does present some challenges with regard to 

distances and logistics. We will advise you on the 

ideal sequence in which to organise your trip, 

according to internal flight schedules, climate, 

departure days of cruises or entry days of hotels, 

if applicable. The flight network is extensive and 

keeps to a good timetable. 

Trips from Chile 

The mysterious stone statues of Easter Island 

lie a five hour flight from Chile. We can organise 

three or four night trips here (depending on the 

flight schedules) from Santiago, where the flights 

depart from. Once you are on the island we 

can arrange excursions with specialist guides, 

or car hire if you wish to explore under your 

own steam. 

The fascinating Falkland Islands lie in the South 

Atlantic, an hour’s flight from Punta Arenas in 

southern Chile. At present there is one flight a 

week to and from Chile and Mount Pleasant, 

the international airport in the Falkland Islands. 

They make a wonderful extension to any trip to 

Chile, as they are teeming with wildlife including 

penguins, sea lions, elephant seals and a wide 

variety of marine birds (see pages 116-119). 

114 

When to go 


✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ 





As befits a country that spans a range of latitudes, 

Chile has many different climatic regions. The 

Atacama and sub-tropical Easter Island are warm 

and dry throughout the year. From Santiago 

down to the Lake District and on down through 

Patagonia the seasons are the reverse of our 

own, with the peak travel season from October 

to April, although the area can also be visited all 

year round. 



Prices 



for your trip to Chile on our website, alternatively 


Cowboys, southern Patagonia 

Classic Chile 

This itinerary takes in the country’s most famous 

highlights in two weeks. A treat for those with a 

love of the great outdoors, this trip takes you to 

the Atacama Desert for a chance to see volcanoes, 

salt flats and geysers before flying south to the 

contrasting landscape of the Lake District with its 

rolling hills and snow-capped mountains. Finally 

venture into Chilean Patagonia with a stay in the 

unique Torres del Paine National Park. 


Day 2 Arrive in Santiago. Optional 

afternoon city tour. 

Day 3 Fly north to Calama, and transfer 

to the oasis village of San Pedro 

de Atacama. 

Days 4-5 Excursions around the stark but 

beautiful Atacama Desert. 

Day 6 Fly south to Puerto Montt in Chile’s 

Lake District. Transfer to your hotel 

in the lakeside town of Puerto Varas. 

Day 7 A full day excursion to visit Peulla 

and the waterfalls at Petrohue. 

Days 8-9 At leisure to explore the 

Lake District. 

Day 10 Fly south to Punta Arenas from 

where you’ll begin your journey into 

Torres del Paine National Park. 

Days 11-12 Excursions into Torres del Paine, 

by foot, horse or vehicle. 

Day 13 Fly from Punta Arenas back to 

Santiago. Spend your last night in 

Chile in the city. 



Stay longer 

Calama 

Santiago 

CHILE 

Puerto Montt 


Punta Arenas 

ARGENTINA 

After a busy trip like this you may wish to have 

some rest and relaxation on a beach, for this we 

recommend stopping in Brazil on the way home. 

Fly to São Paulo and then transfer to one of the 

small hotels dotted along the golden sands of the 

Green Coast (see page 62).

Santiago 

CHILE 

El Calafate 

Patagonia Explored 

This trip takes in two of the main highlights of the 

wonderful and vast expanse of Patagonia – Torres 

del Paine National Park in Chile and the Perito 

Moreno Glacier in Argentina. By choosing how you 

would like to explore these places you can make 

the trip as active or as relaxing as you wish, so the 

only prerequisite is a love of the great outdoors. 


Day 2 Arrive in Santiago. Optional 

afternoon city tour. 

Day 3 Fly south to Punta Arenas, and 

transfer into Torres del Paine 

National Park. 

Days 4-5 Excursions into Torres del Paine, 

by foot, horse or vehicle. 

Day 6 Travel overland across the border 

with Argentina to the town of 

El Calafate. 

Day 7 A trip to the mighty Perito Moreno 

Glacier including a trek on the ice 

itself (age restrictions apply). 

Day 8 At leisure, or take an optional 

excursion into the Patagonian 

countryside to see a local estancia, 

or further glaciers. 

Day 9 Fly north to Buenos Aires. 

Day 10 A full day tour exploring the 

fascinating capital of Argentina. 



Stay longer 

Punta Arenas 

Buenos Aires 

ARGENTINA 

The Lake Districts of either Chile or Argentina can 

be visited on the journey south or north in this 

itinerary, so that northern Patagonia can also be 

explored. Alternatively Peninsula Valdés in 

Argentina is great for wildlife enthusiasts, the 

abundant marine life can be seen by stopping off 

here on the way up to Buenos Aires. 


Vineyards and Volcanoes 

For those who are partial to wine and adventure 

but are perhaps a little short on time this is the 

ideal trip. It can also be done all year round. 

Start by exploring the capital of Santiago before 

heading into the nearby Central Valley to visit 

some world-famous vineyards and wineries. Then 

head north to the Atacama Desert for some 

adventurous explorations amongst the volcanoes. 


Day 2 Arrive in Santiago. Afternoon 

at leisure. 

Day 3 A morning tour of Chile’s capital city. 

Day 4 Travel south of Santiago into the 

Colchagua Valley, the heart of Chile’s 

wine producing region. 

Day 5 A full day tour of some local 

vineyards to see the production 

process. 

Day 6 Return to Santiago and fly north to 

Calama, from here transfer to the 

small town of San Pedro de Atacama. 

Days 7-8 Explore the magical landscape of the 

Atacama Desert, by foot, horse, 

bicycle or vehicle. 

Day 9 Fly back to Santiago and connect 



Stay longer 

For those with a sense of adventure and a love of 

the great outdoors there is nothing more 

spectacular than heading up from San Pedro de 

Atacama into southwestern Bolivia. Visit multicoloured 

lagoons, marvel at stark landscapes 

dotted with nothing but llamas, and walk on the 

largest salt pan in the world at Uyuni. 


Calama 

CHILE 

Santiago 

Colchagua Valley 

ARGENTINA 

Santiago 

CHILE 

Pucón 

Puerto Varas 


Self-drive through Chile 

If you like the independence of driving yourself 

around, Chile is a perfect destination. Start in 

Santiago and finish in the Lake District some 1,000 

kilometres later, having explored the vineyards of 

the Central Valley and enjoyed the beautiful 

scenery of the northern and southern Lake District. 


Day 2 Arrive in Santiago, afternoon at 

leisure to relax or explore. 

Day 3 Pick up your hire car and begin the 

journey south towards the wineries 

of the Central Valley, where you will 

stay overnight. 

Day 4 Continue south out of the vineyards 

and drive through rolling hills heading 

for Chillán. 

Day 5 Continue on down the Pan American 

Highway, heading towards the start 

of the Chilean Lake District. Stay for 

two nights in Pucón. 

Day 6 Explore the area of the Northern 

Lake District in your hire car. 

Day 7 Heading off the main route a little 

you will drive towards Huilo Huilo. 

Day 8 Leaving Huilo Huilo drive south to 

the lakeside town of Puerto Varas. 

Day 9 A day to explore the area, perhaps 

taking the ferry to visit Chiloé Island. 

Day 10 Fly south to Punta Arenas, pick up a 

new car and travel into Torres del 

Paine National Park. 

Days 11-12 Self-drive explorations of Torres del 

Paine and around. 

Day 13 Drive back to Punta Arenas, fly to 

Santiago where you will spend 

the night. 

Day 14 Transfer to the airport to begin your 

journey home. 


Stay longer 

Punta Arenas 

ARGENTINA 

Any trip to Chile with time in Torres del Paine 

means that crossing over into Argentina to see the 

Perito Moreno glacier is easily possible. This can 

then be followed with a few days in the fascinating 

capital of Buenos Aires. 


Falkland Islands 

H uge skies, pure clean air, peace 

and tranquillity and a warm 

welcome – not to mention the curious 

experience of having penguins inspect 

your shoelaces – await you when you 

visit the wild and rugged Falkland 

Islands. One of the main reasons to 

visit is the outstanding wildlife 

viewing opportunities afforded by the 

islands’ location close to the Antarctic 

convergence. However, the fabulous 

bird and marine life is just part of 

the islands’ charm. It is a wonderful 

destination for anyone who wants 

to learn about the pioneering spirit 

of the current islanders’ ancestors, 

or for those who simply want to 

walk, draw, photograph or fish in 

glorious isolation. There is also the 

islands’ recent history, which is well 

documented in a number of museums 

and memorials. A visit to the unique, 

starkly beautiful Falkland Islands is 

a rich and rewarding experience. 

King penguins at Volunteer Point 

116 

1 

2 3 

4 

West Point Island 

Visit one of the largest blackbrowed 

albatross colonies in 

the world. 

1 3 Saunders Island 

2 Carcass Island 

A small and incredibly 

picturesque island, home to a 

large variety of wildlife from 

birds to elephant seals. 

5 

9 

6 

10 

Stay at the deserted Rookery for 

the most off-the-beaten track 

wildlife experience imaginable. 

4 Pebble Island 

A great place for long but gentle 

walks, with abundant wildlife 

from penguins to seals to enjoy 

along the way. 

5 Port Howard 

Stroll around the largest working 

sheep farm on West Falkland. 

7 

8 

6 San Carlos 

This beautiful part of East 

Falkland is the site of the British 

cemetery honouring the fallen 

of the 1982 conflict. 

7 Volunteer Point 

The world’s most accessible 

colony of king penguins is a 

fascinating place to watch the 

social interaction of these 

beautiful birds. 

8 Stanley 

A little piece of Britain in the 

South Atlantic, the capital is a 

great place to feel the unique 

spirit of the islands. 

9 Sea Lion Island 

A stone’s throw from the lodge 

is a beach that is a favourite of 

both elephant seals and orcas. 

10 Darwin & Goose Green 

Places whose names resonate 

with memories of the 

1982 conflict.

Stanley 

The capital of the Falklands, with a population 

of around 2,000, is a charming place with just a 

few streets of colourful houses, a smattering of 

red phone boxes, a few lively pubs and a 

selection of the latest 4x4s, all set on a gentle 

slope beside Stanley Harbour. The compact town 

can be easily appreciated simply by wandering the 

streets on foot. From the 1982 Memorial walk 

along the harbour front, passing the rusting hulks 

of ships that never made it round treacherous 

Cape Horn, explore the whimsical Stanley 

Museum, visit the world’s most southerly 

cathedral and stand beneath Whale Bone Arch, 

made in 1933 from the jawbones of two blue 

whales to celebrate the centenary of continuous 

British administration. Pass Jubilee Villas (built to 

commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond 

Jubilee), drop into the informative Visitor Centre, 

then explore Cartmell Cottage, one of the earliest 

residential buildings in Stanley, built in 1849 using 

a kit sent from Britain. Finally, stop off in one of 

Stanley’s distinctly English pubs to chat to some 

locals over a beer. For accommodation in Stanley 

we recommend either the wonderfully friendly 

Lafone House or Malvina House, the only real 

hotels on the islands. 

Carcass Island 

When the sun is shining, this is arguably the most 

beautiful of the islands, with rolling green hills 

contrasting with vibrant yellow gorse, white sand 

beaches and the pale blue sea. Wildlife spotting 

opportunities are even more plentiful thanks to 

a lack of predatory rodents or cats, and you can 

spot gentoo and Magellanic penguin breeding 

colonies within a few hours scenic but windy walk 

from the settlement. Sometimes the penguins 

treat you to a show on your doorstep, when they 

obligingly nest in the settlement itself. Other 

sighted inhabitants include kelp, upland and ruddy 

geese, Patagonian crested duck, flightless steamer 

duck, Falkland thrush, caracara, and pied, black 

and Magellanic oystercatchers. On the larger side 

of life you will also find colonies of elephant seals. 

Cormorants, Pebble Island 

Elephant seals, Carcass Island 

Volunteer Point 

A bumpy three hour journey by 4x4 across 

rolling moors brings you to Volunteer Point, 

home to the world’s largest accessible colony of 

king penguins. En route you’ll pass through a stark 

but beautiful landscape of rolling moors dotted 

with glacial-scarred rock. Once at Volunteers 

you enter a world where the white sandy beach, 

rolling hills, lagoon and the pebble shore belong 

to the penguins. As a (largely ignored) visitor, 

it is a privilege to experience one of nature’s 

most endearing and awe-inspiring scenes. 

Watch these fascinating, sociable creatures go 

about their daily life of breeding, preening, 

protecting and feeding their young. Crouch on 

the grass and observe the comical sight of what 

appear to be balls of brown fluff with feet, 

padding about. These are the young king penguins 

in adolescence, before they moult their soft down 

to reveal their trademark svelte black and white 

coats with distinctive amber neck markings. 

West Point 

As a side trip by boat from Carcass Island you can 

visit this tiny craggy island for a day. It is home to 

a great rockhopper penguin colony but also, and 

the main reason for going, is to see a massive 

black-browed albatross colony. Here you can sit 

and watch these huge and beautiful birds 

returning from the sea to feed their chicks. 

Audley in the 

Falkland Islands 

Our in-depth first hand knowledge of the 

islands, the accommodation, the excursions, 

the wildlife-watching opportunities and our 

friendships with some of the locals means 

that we will ensure you get the most out of 

your visit by creating a trip tailored just for 

you. Getting there is an adventure in itself, 

and there are three main ways to reach the 

islands, which are situated one hour’s flight 

off mainland South America in the South 

Atlantic ocean. We use either the scheduled 

weekly LAN service from Santiago, Chile via 

Punta Arenas (ideal if you are already on a 

trip to Chile, or indeed anywhere in South 

America), or you can travel on the RAF 

service from Brize Norton in Oxfordshire 

via Ascension Island. In either case you 

land at the military base of Mount Pleasant 

from where you will start your tour. The 

alternative way to visit the islands is as part 

of an Antarctica cruise that stops off here, 

please see pages 120-122. 

Accommodation 

Accommodation, apart from in the capital 

Stanley, is in family lodges or self-catering 

cottages within the settlement. Standards 

vary and en suite facilities are not always 

available. Dining and socialising with your 

fellow travellers and hosts provides a more 

personal and authentic local experience. 

Your hosts will also act as your guides to 

the local sights. Not all of the islands are 

currently open to visitors, and there are also 

some other lodges scattered throughout 

East and West Falkland that are not 

mentioned here due to space restrictions. 

Find out more 


information about travel in the Falkland 

Islands, please see page 119. 

☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Falkland 

Islands specialists 01993 838 644 

Falkland Islands 117

Black-browed albatross, Saunders Island 

Saunders Island 

Home to king, rockhopper and Magellanic 

penguins, a large colony of black-browed albatross 

and many other varieties of sea bird, Saunders 

Island is a wildlife lover’s paradise. Sea lions and 

dolphins often frolic in the harbour shallows and 

the owners of the island, will happily guide you to 

see the best of the island’s other wildlife. We 

recommend nature photography enthusiasts stay 

a few nights at the Neck, an isolated hide where 

the natural world takes centre stage. Otherwise 

there is a simple lodge at the Rookery, close to a 

rockhopper penguin colony and just a short walk 

from a freshwater ‘shower’ used by these 

comical birds. 

Pebble Island 

118 

Pebble Island 

Pebble Island 

A lovely place for hiking and wildlife spotting in 

the day, and relaxing and enjoying the cosy lodge 

in the evening, Pebble Island is home to a plentiful 

and diverse array of penguin colonies. This is a 

great place to spend hours immersed in the 

wonderful noisy interaction of penguin society 

where it has been known for some lucky visitors 

to see six different species of penguin in a single 

day. Rest on a rock to watch the sociable 

rockhoppers leave their nests, gather in little 

groups, and set off in their comical gait on a 

perilous trip down the cliffs to the sea. Pebble is 

also home to some of the island’s best wetlands 

giving huge variety to the birdlife viewing on 

offer here. On a different note, Pebble was the 

site of an assault made by the SAS during the 

1982 conflict and is home to the memorial to 

HMS Coventry. 

Sea Lion Island 

Sea Lion Island boasts the most hotel-like 

accommodation outside of the capital, Sea Lion 

Lodge. Its ideal location overlooking a gentoo 

penguin colony makes a pre-breakfast amble 

through the tussock grass to the sea shore a 

delightful way to start the day. Here you can sit 

quietly with the sea lions and elephant seals who 

are lazing about on the sandy beach, but since 

orcas have been known to arrive at the shore to 

snatch their breakfast, we recommend avoiding 

a morning dip in the sea. 

Port Howard 

Once the largest settlement outside Stanley and 

still a working farm, Port Howard, on West 

Falkland, is a fascinating introduction to the 

farming history of the islands. Your flight in will 

bring you over the high ridge that circles the farm 

and you will soon be tucking into the hearty 

‘smoko’ (tea and cake break) that is typical of the 

Falklands. You may be here at the right time to 

see some of the sheep shearing gangs hard at 

work, this is also one of the best fly fishing 

destinations in the world and a trip out with a 

gillie is a rewarding experience for any fisherman.

Carcass Island 

King penguins, Volunteer Point 

Goose Green, Darwin 

and San Carlos 

The East Falkland area of Goose Green, 

Darwin and San Carlos has become 

synonymous with the 1982 conflict. Darwin 

Lodge is your base for exploring this region 

where your friendly hosts will act as your 

guides to the Goose Green battle site, the 

War Museum, and the windswept and 

poignant British and Argentine cemeteries. 

Even if the recent military history of the islands 

is not the primary reason for your visit, we 

recommend you include a trip to this area as 

it is integral to your understanding of life on 

the islands. For those who want to see more 

of East Falkland there are also some simple, 

self-catering cabins that can be booked in 

conjunction with a hire car. 

Stanley 








Please call one of our Falkland Islands specialists 

to start planning your itinerary. 

Telephone: 01993 838 644 


Travelling between the islands is by the FIGAS 

(Falkland Island Government Air Service) eight 

seater twin-engined Islander aircraft which act 

almost as a taxi service. We will design your 

trip to suit your specific interests, and your 

itinerary will probably take in Stanley plus one 

or two ‘Camp’ settlements (Camp is the term 

for any settlements within the islands that are 

not Stanley). 

When to go 


✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✕ ✕ ✕ ✕ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ 





The Falkland Islands have a temperate climate, 

with the ideal time to visit falling during the 

summer months between October and March. 

It is at this time that the hours of daylight are at 

their longest, however ‘four seasons in one day’ 

is always a possibility, and the winds are 

persistent all year round. 



Prices 



prices for your trip to Falkland Islands on our 

website, alternatively please call our specialists 

to discuss your plans. 

Gentoo penguins, Carcass Island 

Carcass 

Island 

Classic Falklands 

A trip that allows you to see all sides of life in the 

islands. Marvel at the incredible wildlife, learn about 

the recent military history, and meet many of the 

fascinating islanders. 

Day 1 Fly from Brize Norton via Ascension 

Island to the Falklands. 

Day 2 Arrive in Mount Pleasant and transfer 

to Darwin House. 

Day 3 Fly to Carcass Island, afternoon 

explorations of this small, but 

beautiful island. 

Day 4 Enjoy walks around Carcass Island. 

Day 5 Take a boat trip to visit West Point 

Island, home to a huge colony of 

black-browed albatross. 

Day 6 Fly to Pebble Island, one of the larger 

islands of the Falklands. 

Day 7 Explore the island by foot or jeep, 

spending time at many of the 

penguin colonies. 

Day 8 Fly on to Sea Lion Island. 

Day 9 Walk around the island to see some 

of the remarkable local wildlife. 

Day 10 Fly back to Stanley, take a walking 

tour of the capital including the 

museum and Conflict Memorial. 

Day 11 Take a trip to visit the king penguin 

colony at Volunteer Point. 

Day 12 Transfer to Mount Pleasant for your 

international flight home. 

Day 13 Arrive back in the UK. 

Stay longer 

Pebble 

Island 

Darwin 

Sea Lion 

Island 

Stanley 

Mount 

Pleasant 

The international flights go via Ascension Island, 

so we can arrange stopovers here for those with 

an interest in this remote British overseas territory 

in the South Atlantic. You can also combine the 

Falkland Islands with a trip to Chile, and fly on 

scheduled LAN flights via Chile rather than the 

RAF flights from Brize Norton. 

www.audleytravel.com/falklandislands ● 01993 838 644 ● Falkland Islands 119

Antarctica 

Antarctica, owned by no one 

and visited by few, is the 

world’s coldest, windiest and 

wildest continent. It is an area of 

awe-inspiring desolation, yet 

captivating beauty, where you can 

see creaking blue glaciers, dazzling 

white snow, the most radiant 

sunshine and the harshest of skies, 

all in one day. Icebergs drift slowly 

by as whales flip their tails above 

glassy seas, seals bask on icy shelves 

and penguins chatter raucously in 

vast rookeries. Man’s presence is seen 

only rarely: the abandoned shelters of 

polar explorers and whaling stations 

rusting in the sun. Visiting what is 

possibly the world’s ultimate travel 

frontier, the ‘White Continent’, will 

be a truly unforgettable experience. 

Adelie penguins, Antarctica 

120 

2 

1 

3 

Drake Passage 

To some it’s something to be 

endured, to others it's the start 

of the incredible adventure, the 

Drake Passage is a rite of 

passage for Antarctic explorers. 

1 Penguins 

2 Lemaire Channel 

One of the most picturesque 

parts of the Antarctic Peninsula, 

a narrow channel between 

towering mountains and glaciers. 

3 South Georgia 

Home to hundreds of thousands 

of king penguins and a lot of 

historical human endeavour. 

Minke whale, Antarctica 

Comical on land, graceful in the 

water, hugely sociable – hours 

can be spent with the penguins. 

Species include Adélie, gentoo, 

king and chinstrap. 

Whales and dolphins 

Minke, fin, blue, humpback and 

orca are some of the species 

you might encounter during 

your cruise. 

Camping and kayaking 

Wrap up warm and imagine 

you are an intrepid explorer.

Lemaire Channel, Antarctica 

Expedition cruising 

The simplest and most cost-effective way to 

experience Antarctica is on board an expedition 

cruise ship departing from the southern tip of 

South America. These trips head to the Antarctic 

Peninsula, the finger of land that beckons upwards 

from this vast white continent towards its 

neighbour, and also to the islands in the South 

Atlantic Ocean. Your days will pass in a whirl of 

open-mouthed amazement at the sights, sounds 

and experiences – disembarking to observe 

penguin colonies and to visit historical settlements 

of explorers and whalers, watching out for whales, 

plus ideally hours and hours spent standing on 

deck, simply marvelling at the glaciers, ice and 

mountains. Plus of course eating, drinking, and 

meeting like-minded travellers. Your home for 

the duration will be one of our carefully selected 

expedition cruise vessels which, whilst not the 

height of luxury, offer comfortable 

accommodation but more importantly 

experienced, enthusiastic and knowledgeable 

expedition leaders. 

Places 

The places you will visit are names associated 

with Antarctic history and legend. The Drake 

Passage, scourge of mariners for hundreds of 

years, and now scourge of the travellers who 

have to brave it to reach the calm waters of the 

Antarctic Peninsula. South Georgia, inexorably 

linked to Ernest Shackleton and the Southern 

Ocean whaling industry, a beautiful place teeming 

with wildlife including hundreds of thousands of 

king penguins. Deception Island, an active 

volcano blown out into a perfect horseshoe 

shaped harbour, and where ongoing geothermal 

activity lets you take a warm bath in the sea. 

Other interesting places visited on cruises include 

the British Antarctic Survey base at Port Lockroy 

on the Antarctic Peninsula, the photogenic 

Lemaire Channel and the Falkland Islands 

(see pages 116 to 119). 

Wildlife 

The abundant wildlife of the Antarctic really does 

have the place all to itself and the only fear they 

have are of those above them in the food chain. 

Penguins are the main attraction with their 

comical walks and sociable ways. Species you may 

see include Adélie, gentoo, chinstrap, macaroni 

and rockhopper. King penguins have colonies on 

the Falkland Islands and South Georgia (emperors 

are not seen unless on a trip to Snow Hill or on 

a land-based trip). Seals of different varieties are 

abundant, including elephant seals, crabeaters and 

the magnificent and reptilian leopard seal. Whales, 

including minke, humpback, southern right and 

maybe even blue, glide around the icy waters, as 

do pods of orca: meaning time spent on the deck 

of your boat as you sail around is almost always 

rewarding. In the air a huge variety of sea birds 

can be observed, including many species of 

albatross and petrels. 

Crabeater seal, Antarctica 

Audley in Antarctica 

A visit to Antarctica is an astonishing trip of 

a lifetime, these expedition cruises are 

educational, challenging and like no other, 

and a journey of this magnitude needs to be 

perfectly planned. We recommend a small 

selection of expedition vessels, all of which 

our Polar specialists have travelled on or 

inspected, giving them unrivalled knowledge 

and enabling them to offer first-hand advice 

on which vessel best suits you. We only 

work with companies in Antarctica who are 

committed to ensuring that any impact on 

the environment is minimised. 


The expedition cruises mentioned opposite 

depart from Ushuaia at the far tip of 

Argentina for the journey over the Drake 

Passage to Antarctica. There are also some 

‘fly-cruise’ options for those who would 

rather fly over the Drake Passage, you will 

then board your cruise boat on King George 

Island. The cruise companies operate a 

selection of trips ranging from 10 days 

around the Antarctic Peninsula, to voyages 

of up to 20 days which take in the Antarctic 

Peninsula, South Georgia and the Falkland 

Islands. Cruises to Antarctica operate during 

the Austral summer, early November to late 

March. There is no ‘best’ time to go within 

this period, although the different months 

do have unique characteristics in terms of 

the wildlife. 

Antarctica brochure 

We have a brochure dedicated to Antarctica. 

Please call our specialists on 01993 838 615 

for your copy. 

Find out more 


information about travel in Antarctica, 

please see our website. 

☎ 






Discuss your plans with our Polar 


Antarctica 121

King penguin colony, South Georgia 

Adventure 

You do not need to be super fit for an 

Antarctic cruise, although you need to be mobile 

enough to get on and off the small zodiac boats 

that are used for the excursions onto shore. 

Once on the shore the excursions are not too 

hard-going, be it walking up a snow-covered hill 

to a penguin colony or stripping to your 

swimsuit for a quick dip in the thermal pools on 

Deception Island. However, for those with an 

Antarctic Dream, Antarctica 

122 

extra sense of adventure, some cruises offer 

the opportunity to camp for a night or two on 

the ice, or to go kayaking amongst the icebergs. 

Alternatively, for those with a large wallet and a 

hankering for even more adventure, there are 

two companies that offer land-based trips into 

the heart of the continent, flying in from either 

South Africa or Chile and landing on a blue-ice 

runway. Once there you could be skiing, trekking 

or snow-mobiling or visiting emperor penguins in 

one of the most remote places on earth. 

The Arctic 

In our summertime the boats that ply 

the Antarctic waters head up north to 

sail around the Arctic. Cruises go to 

Spitsbergen (part of the Norwegian 

archipelago of Svalbard), Iceland and 

Greenland, as well as Canada’s 

Northwest Passage and Baffin Island, and 

the North Pole. Arctic cruises are both 

incredibly similar and totally different to 

Antarctic cruises, if that makes sense! 

The landscapes are equally stunning, 

with glaciers, mountains and icebergs, 

and the wildlife too is incredible, but 

rather than noisy colonies of penguins 

you will hopefully be lucky enough to 

have a polar bear encounter. Marine life 

and birds are also prolific. Please call 

our Polar specialists on 01993 838 615 

to learn more.

Useful information 

Machu Picchu, Peru Waved albatross, Galapagos Islands Torres del Paine National Park, Chile 

Honeymoons 

A honeymoon to South America will provide a 

memorable experience. The continent is able to 

cater for whatever type of trip you are looking 

for. Whether it is relaxing on a beautiful beach, 

enjoying time in lively cities, taking in breathtaking 

scenery or all manner of outdoors activities such 

as walking or horse riding, your preferences can 

easily be catered for. Please call one of our 

specialists to discuss your ideas and plans. 

Flights 

Direct flights to South America only operate to 

São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro in Brazil and Buenos 

Aires in Argentina. The continent is usually 

reached by flights via mainland Europe with daily 

services from Madrid, Paris and Amsterdam to all 

the major South American cities. Daily flights 

from Lisbon also serve many regional destinations 

within Brazil. It is also possible to travel to most 

capital cities via the USA. Connecting flights from 

UK regional airports can also be arranged so 

please tell us if you’d like to fly from your 

local airport as this may influence the airline 

we choose. 

However you choose to reach your South 

American destination there are usually a number 

of options available. Our specialists will discuss all 

the permutations with you and advise you of the 

best route to take for your trip. 

Visit our offices 

If you would like to discuss your 

travel arrangements in person we 

welcome personal visits, please 

call in advance to arrange an 

appointment with one or more of 

our country specialists. Our offices 

are at the New Mill, a 17th century 

converted wool mill on the outskirts 

of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford 

on the edge of the Cotswolds. 

www.audleytravel.com/visit-us 

Responsible travel 

We’re passionate about travel but also deeply 

aware of the responsibility we have to the people 

and places we visit. We believe that a visit from 

an Audley traveller should have a positive impact 

on the destination and, wherever possible, bring 

real benefits. We always endeavour to use locally 

owned hotels, work with local guides and 

operators, and promote community and wildlife 

projects. Our Traveller’s Code offers tips and 

advice you can use to ensure your trip does not 

threaten the sustainability of the places you visit. 

We carbon offset all our staff flights and you can 

choose to do the same, please speak to your 

specialist about this or follow the link on our 

website www.audleytravel.com/offset. 

Our commitment to responsible travel has been 

audited by AITO (Association of Independent 

Tour Operators) and we have been awarded 

five stars, the maximum achievable. We also 

support a variety of social and environmental 

charities and projects around the world. For more 

information about travelling responsibly and the 

charities and projects we support please visit 

www.audleytravel.com/rt 

Terms & Conditions and 

Travel Insurance 

Your booking is subject to the Terms and 

Conditions of Audley Travel, which we will 

include with your personalised itinerary and can 

also be found on our website. It is vital that you 

have adequate travel insurance and we are able 

to suggest a number of policies either for the 

duration of your trip or on an annual basis. 

AITO Membership 

Audley is a member of the 

Association of Independent Tour 

Operators. The Association 

represents Britain’s leading independent tour 

operators and encourages high standards of 

quality and service. Audley abides by the 

Assocation’s Code of Conduct and adheres to 

the AITO Quality Charter which can be viewed 

at www.aito.com 

Photography in this brochure 

We would like to thank the following 

photographers for the images used in this 

brochure: Steve Allen, David Fettes, AWL Images, 

TIPS images, Istockphoto, Lonely Planet Images, 

Alamy, Metropolitan Touring, Lares, Perurail, 

Orient Express, Inkaterra, Rainforest Expeditions, 

Senderos, Ernesto Barría, and members of the 

Audley South America team. 

All images used in this brochure were obtained 

in good faith by Audley Travel Group Limited 

and in the belief that all necessary consents and 

clearances were obtained for their use. However, 

if you believe that unauthorised use has been 

made of an image belonging to you please 

contact us on 01993 838 040. 


Our website is packed with 

information, features and advice 

covering all our destinations across 

the globe. On the site you can browse by 

theme, special interest or region as well as 

viewing additional accommodation options 

and itineraries that are not featured in 

this brochure. You can download all our 

brochures online or contact us via the 

website where you can fill in the details of 

your plans so that we can start tailoring 

your itinerary. 

Useful information 123

New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom 

Telephone: 01993 838 600 Fax: 01993 838 010 

Email: southam@audleytravel.com Website: www.audleytravel.com 

This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forestry Stewardship Council, using vegetable inks. 

Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC environmental accreditations. Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it.

Download - Audley Travel

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?