Henri Lefebvre: A Critical Introduction - autonomous learning

p r e F a c e
hark back to 1537, when the King of Navarre refortified the fourteenth-century
originals. Thirty-odd years later, Navarrenx, whose
name has Basque origins, withstood a three-month siege defending
the honor of Jeanne d’Albret, sovereign of Béarn and mother
of King Henri IV. Two centuries on, in 1774, the town underwent
extensive renovation and replanning; many structures, including
chez Lefebvre at rue Saint-Germain, hail from this period.
At the nearby Place des Casernes, an almost deserted square
shadowed by the Porte Saint-Antoine, the gateway to Spain, modern-day
travelers can find no-frills room and board at Navarrenx’s
sole inn, the Hôtel du Commerce. My first, and only, evening at
the Hôtel du Commerce seems comical in retrospect. I’d decided
to take a twilight stroll along Navarrenx’s ramparts, imbibe its
atmosphere in the balmy air. When darkness fell, I returned to
find my room infested with mosquitoes; the South West’s damp,
mild climate is a veritable breeding ground for these pests, and I’d
dumbly left the light on and shutters open. Too late for room service,
I chose the fastest remedy: to splatter every single one with
a rolled-up newspaper. Next morning, in broad daylight, I realized
the mess I’d made to the walls and ceiling, much to the chagrin
of Monsieur le propriétaire, who wasn’t amused. We exchanged
words; I placated, apologized, promised to clean everything up,
which I hastily did. Yet the portly patron wasn’t impressed and
urged me to pay up and clear out, sooner rather than later. Thus,
like a renegade pilgrim of Saint-Jacques de Compostelle, I was
banished from Navarrenx, kicked out on my debut visit.
The banishment had been a strange blessing. Forced to
flee, I discovered the Basque town of Mauléon, twenty minutes
down the road, and the wonderful Bidegain hotel, which serves
the lovely rich, deep-bodied Irouléguy wine Lefebvre tippled. 14
As the signature red shutters and Basque red, green, and white
flags became more prominent, I saw and felt the proximity of
Navarrenx to Basque county; I began to grasp up close how its
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