The Romsey Modeller - Romsey Modellers
The Romsey Modeller - Romsey Modellers
The Romsey Modeller - Romsey Modellers
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[15]. Detailing added to rear deck of cockpit. [16]. Modified kit seat<br />
with plasticard panel<br />
behind head. Headrest<br />
and cushion added from<br />
Milliput.<br />
[17]. Kit pilot underwent an<br />
enforced drastic weight loss and<br />
sex‐change surgical operation<br />
(you can’t do enough for a good<br />
hobby!). I wish I trimmed out<br />
around the neck some more<br />
because “she” ended up more<br />
like a Russian shot‐put athlete<br />
than a young “Angel”!<br />
Guillaume Monnier had also explained to me how to mould the new canopy by what he termed “smash<br />
moulding”. Basically, you take a piece of transparent polystyrene food packaging and heat it using a candle.<br />
Once it has gone soft, you “smash” it down over the mould. He said that you must keep moving the plastic<br />
over the candle flame – if you stop it will melt through. He also said that I would need a few tries before<br />
getting the hang of it and that if the plastic had not flowed enough then you can reheat it once again and have<br />
another try.<br />
I epoxied each of the two Super‐Sculpey moulds to lolly sticks and clamped these into place for the smash<br />
moulding. It all went exactly as Guillaume had predicted, and I ended up with two or three usable canopies<br />
from each mould. <strong>The</strong> plastic from the deeper canopy was a bit thin after moulding, but the shallower one was<br />
okay. I also tried some clear plasticard, but this was impossible to mould: the clear food packaging was much<br />
easier (and cheaper!)<br />
One further advantage of doing your own mould is that it is easier to trim the part to fit. You pop the part back<br />
onto the mould and trace along the joint edge using a CD marker pen. <strong>The</strong>n take the part off and trim it using a<br />
fine pair of nail scissors and a scalpel. Any residue of CD pen ink can be removed with a paintbrush dipped into<br />
meths.<br />
Having selected the best results for my model (one from each mould), they were dipped into Klear and left<br />
until the cockpit had been painted up.<br />
<strong>The</strong> cockpit, seat, pilot and instrument coaming (fashioned from a resin block) were undercoated H66 dark<br />
grey and then a lighter tone, H64, was applied as a highlight from above. <strong>The</strong> rear deck and inside edges of the<br />
cockpit were sprayed H120 green, this being a reasonably close match to the photos found on the internet.<br />
Some AK‐Interactive wash was applied to the green decking before the detailed items were picked out in their<br />
correct colours.<br />
White, H34, was sprayed onto the pilot from above, except for the legs that would be shaded by the<br />
instrument coaming. <strong>The</strong> pilot’s hair visible through the flying helmet was painted with various tones of oil<br />
paint [18].<br />
19