BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

PHOTO © MAURICIO ABREU/JAI/CORBIS 

BUYING GUIDE 

OCTOBER 2012 

Terraced vineyards in the Alto Douro wine region, a 

UNESCO World heritage site. 

2 PORTUGAL 

19 SPAIN 

25 PROVENCE 

25 SOUTHWEST FRANCE 

28 RHÔNE 

32 OTHER FRANCE 

33 TUSCANY 

36 CENTRAL ITALY 

42 ARGENTINA 

46 MEXICO 

47 CALIFORNIA 

66 OREGON 

70 SPIRITS 

75 BEER 

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS 

AND REVIEWS, VISIT 

BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM 

WineMag.com | 1

PORTUGAL 

PORTUGAL’S VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 

Portugal produces an impressive variety of wine styles. From the 

crisp, light-as-a-feather wines of Vinho Verde in the north to the 

rich, generous wines of the southern Alentejo, there is something 

for every palate. 

In this month’s reviews, three regions stand out: Vinho Verde, Douro 

and Lisboa. In an age when we are craving both light and slightly sweet 

wines, Vinho Verde fits the bill. The most popular style is semisweet, but 

there is increasing interest in dry styles, as seen in many of the high scoring 

wines this month. Regional styles are emerging within the large Vinho 

Verde region: the elegant, rich Alvarinho wines of the far north and the 

crisp Loureiro wines of the Lima Valley in the center. 

Along its southern margin, Vinho Verde butts up against the Douro Valley. 

The Douro is still on a voyage of discovery, exploring a wide range of 

styles, from light whites to complex reds and almost everything in between. 

Premium table wines are still fairly new in this region; they’ve only been 

produced here for less than a quarter of a century. In this relatively short 

ALENTEJANO WHITES 

91 

Fitapreta Vinhos 2009 Palpite Reserva 

Branco (Alentejano). Opulent and woodaged, 

this feels intense and rounded with a ripe Burgundian 

feel. The full weight of the peach and apricot 

fruits are given a powerful push by the toast, spice and 

vanilla flavors. Age this for 2–3 years. Winebridge Imports. 

—R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $40 

90 

Adega Mayor 2010 Reserva do Comendador 

Branco (Alentejano). The white 

Reserva from Adega Mayor is wood aged and it feels 

full on the palate. It has nutmeg, citrus and apricot flavors 

alongside a rounded texture. Age for another two 

years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 

abv: 13% Price: $NA 

88 

Adega Mayor 2011 Monte Mayor Branco 

(Alentejano). Honey and tropical fruit aromas 

open the nose, leading to the palate that is warm and 

ripe with pineapple and white peach fruit. The bright 

acidity lends a fresh and crisply fruity finish, with notes 

of citrus and apple. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 


87 

Herdade das Servas 2011 Branco (Alentejano). 

This is a very ripe and wood-aged 

wine, with vanilla flavors pairing with the smooth texture 

of the rich pear and apricot fruits. There is a touch 

of pepper from the alcohol that spoils the purity of the 

fruit. Simões Imports. —R.V. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $14 

86 

Adega Mayor 2011 Caiado (Alentejano). 

This is floral and aromatic, bearing soft, ripe yellow 

fruit, attractive acidity and a soft, rounded texture. 

A shaft of citric acidity cuts through the palate, making 

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012 

the wine feel lively and refreshing. Aidil Wines & Liquor 

Inc. —R.V. 


86 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Monte Alentejano 

Branco (Alentejano). Perfumed, with a soft, 

smooth texture, this has flavors of tropical fruit, peach 

and a hint of lemongrass that make for a rich wine. Dionysos 

Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $8 

86 

Herdade Grande 2011 Verdelho (Alentejano). 

This is perfumed, soft, warm and ripe, 

with smooth peach and mulberry flavors that are offset 

by a citrusy tang. It’s a fine apéritif. Grape Moments. 

—R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

86 

Herdade Grande 2011 Colheita Seleccionada 

(Alentejano). Rich and soft, this has a 

creamy smooth texture, with notes of toast, ripe apple 

and quince. There is a good touch of acidity to this attractive, 

ready to drink wine. Grape Moments. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

84 

Monte Seis Reis 2010 Boa Memória 

Branco (Alentejano). Soft, round and gentle, 

this has a creamed apple flavor. It has a full, ripe character, 

with just an edge of green herb and spice. Mediterranean 

Specialty Products. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 

DOURO WHITES 

89 

Wines & Winemakers 2011 Lua Cheia 

em Vinhas Velhas (Douro). This old-vines 

white is impressive with a serious yet fruity character. 

It is herbaceous, but it also shows concentration, peach 

time, however, two important things have happened. Touriga Nacional and 

Tinta Roriz have been identified as the two great grapes for table wines, 

and the Douro—dominated for centuries by the big Port houses—has become 

a cauldron of experimentation by small, estate-based producers, reinforcing 

Portugal’s claim to a place at the top table of wine. 

Lisboa, whose cool-climate wines I covered in depth in the 2011 Best 

of Year (December 31) issue, remains Portugal’s best source for value. The 

reviews this month contain wine after wine marked as Best Buys, many retailing 

for under $10. Nowhere else in the world can you find such a costconscious 

concentration. 

Light fruity whites, world-class reds and terrific value—all in one small, 

astonishingly diverse country. 

As always, feel free to check out all our reviews from around the world, 

at buyingguide.winemag.com. 

Cheers! 

fruit and lively green acidity. Age this for the next year. 

Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. 

abv: 13% Price: $15 

88 

Burmester 2011 White (Douro). Deliciously 

fresh and perfumed, this has a white flower 

aroma, with a clean and crisp line of citrusy acidity. 

There is a good tang of structure, giving the wine a fine, 

food-friendly shape. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. 


88 

Wines & Winemakers 2011 Andreza Códega 

do Larinho (Douro). Made from the 

Códega do Larinho grape (also called Síria), this is a refreshingly 

rich wine. It’s full in the mouth yet it retains 

its natural freshness, with a touch of pepper, tangy acidity 

and great depth of flavor. The finish bears notes of 

citrus, pear and green apple. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $15 

87 

Aveleda 2011 Aveleda Branco (Douro). A 

new wine in the Aveleda line-up, this is rich and 

rounded. It’s aromatic, with a full mouthfeel and flavors 

of pear and green apple lifted by acidity. The finish is 

full and fruity. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 


87 

—RogeR Voss 

Churchill’s 2011 Branco (Douro). Earth 

aromas set the scene for this full-bodied wine. 

It is rich and rounded, with the pear and peach flavors 

dominating the soft texture. Made from grapes sourced 

from vineyards high above the Douro River, this has 

weight, although on the finish there is freshness. Screwcap. 

Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 


Continued on Page 13

The Wine Enthusiast 

Buying Guide 

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of newrelease 

and selected older beverage alcohol products 

evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other 

qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide 

include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting 

Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan 

Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate 

Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael 

Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, 

European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor 

Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff 

in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and 

Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa. 

If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s 

initials appear following the note. When no initials appear 

following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two 

or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect 

the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits 

Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by 

Lauren Buzzeo. 

Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, 

its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by 

the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content 

cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. 

Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. 

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS 

All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed 

blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in 

peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in 

assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or 

uncustomary are retasted. 

ABOUT THE SCORES 

Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. 

Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying 

tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. 

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. 

Superb 94–97: A great achievement. 

Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. 

Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. 

Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; 

often good value. 

Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, lesscritical 

circumstances. 

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 

points) are not reviewed. 

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS 

Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent 

quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any 

price with unique qualities that merit special attention. 

Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible 

and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to 

reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation 

does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but 

that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In 

general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. 

Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in 

relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae 

for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are 

generally priced at $15 or less. 

SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW 

Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing 

location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. 

com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting 

& Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ 

wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting 

products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted 

for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted 

will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All 

samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission 

forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. 

LABELS 

Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given 

the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and 

printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on 

label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 

866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net. 

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at 

buyingguide.winemag.com 

David Arthur 2009 Elevation 1147 Estate 

99 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There 

are incredible aromatics on this Cabernet. It’s powerful 

yet subtle (how can that be?), all about sweet, crushed 

summer blackberries and pure cassis liqueur. Elaborate 

oak, in the form of buttered toast, is perfectly in balance, 

never overshadowing the fruit. The tannins are 

dry, rich and smooth, defining Napa elegance, grace and 

beauty. World class, dramatic and just about perfect, 

this gets better and better as it breathes in the glass. 

Drink now–2030. —S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $150 

98 

Von Strasser 2009 Estate Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). 

So enormously delicious, it will be hard to keep from 

drinking this gorgeous Cabernet right away, and that’s 

just fine. It’s composed of the most intensly concentrated 

flavors of blueberries and blackberries—dense, pure 

and slightly heady with a liqueur-like alcohol. The tannins 

are classic Diamond Mountain, firm and minerally, 

while oak plays the perfect role of the buttered toast 

and sweetly charred supporting character. Despite its 

immediate attraction, it’s best cellared for 6–8 years, at 

the very least. Fans of old Cabernets will still be loving 

it in 2029. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $70 

Piña 2009 Ames Vineyard Cab- 

96 ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). A 

vital, focused Cabernet, this shows the 

sheer classiness of Oakville in its concentrated 

blackberry and black currant 

fruit. It’s seemingly sweet and dry at the 

same time, and the tannins, which are 

extraordinarily thick, are fine and pure. 

Irresistably delicious now, this changes 

in the glass by the second. It suggests it 

wants some time in the cellar, so drink 

now–2021. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 


95 

Arnaldo Caprai 2007 25 Anni (Sagrantino 

di Montefalco). One of the top, if not the 

top, red wines from Umbria. The naturally tannic Sagrantino 

grape is softened by the careful oak aging that 

adds layers of chocolate and spice to the grape’s aromas 

of black cherry, tobacco and leather. This is bold, powerful, 

masculine and velvety on the finish. Pair it with 

stewed or grilled meat marinated in rosemary and garlic. 

Age this in a cellar for 10 years or longer. Folio Fine 

Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 

abv: 15% Price: $100 

95 

Duckhorn 2009 Three Palms Vineyard 

Merlot (Napa Valley). This is classic Three 

Palms Merlot—as excellent as anything Duckhorn has 

ever produced. It shows the hard tannins that always 

mark the winery’s Bordeaux-style red wines, but it’s luscious 

and deep in berry fruit, licorice, grilled meat and 

cola. It should have no difficulty negotiating the years. 

Give it until around 2015, but if you can’t wait, at least 

decant it for a few hours. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $85 

95 

Marimar Estate 2008 Cristina Don Miguel 

Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). 

The winery held this back an additional six months 

after their other 2008 Pinots were released, presumably 

to let it become integrated. Still, it’s quite tannic, with a 

sandpaper-like toughness. Despite the astringency, the 

massive wild-cherry, cola, mushroom and anise flavors 

come through. It’s a huge wine, feral and untamed— 

quite exquisite in its wildness. So delicious now, it’s 

hard to resist, but the wise collector will cellar it for 4–5 

years, maybe even longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $49 


95 

Trapiche 2009 Finca Jorge Miralles Single 

Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). This 

is a real blaster of a Malbec, showing power, concentration 

and subtleties. The bouquet is full of graham cracker, 

cola, monster berry and moss notes, while the pure, 

driving palate deals flavors of toasty blackberry, spice, 

mocha and more. The lengthy but mellow finish hums 

like a fine-tuned machine. Drink now–2018. The Wine 

Group. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 


95 

Walt 2010 The Corners Pinot Noir (Anderson 

Valley). This is a big Pinot Noir, with 

an explosive intensity of cherries and raspberries that is 

ripe and pure. Oak, of course, is there too, in the form 

of buttered, smoky toast. However, the wine isn’t a mere 

fruit bomb. It has interesting nuances of earthy things, 

like mushrooms, nettles and Provençal herbs. The silky 

texture is an exquisite balance of acids and tannins. This 

new brand from Hall winery is made by their talented 

winemaker, Steve Leveque, and it immediately enters 

the California pantheon of excellent Pinot Noirs. —S.H. 

abv: 15.1% Price: $60 

94 

Chappellet 2009 Pritchard Hill Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Dark and saturated 

in color, this has earthy and meaty aromas like 

bloody, rare steak and charred bone—that sort of proteinous 

spirit. The actual fruit flavor is incredibly rich 

and concentrated in blackberries, black currants and 

crisp bacon. The impression is of a sweet, delicious 

Cabernet that’s a touch warm in alcohol, but lush and 

refined. —S.H. 

abv: 15.1% Price: $135 


94 

Duckhorn 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Howell Mountain). Bottled in March 2010 

and released in September 2011, this wine is still drinking 

young and fresh, with firm, rustic tannins. It’s gigantic 

in mineral-infused blackberries and black currants; 

the flavors are deep, intense and long-lasting into the 

finish. An impressive wine whose astringency requires 

aging, hold this until 2017, at the very least. Cellar Selection. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $75 

94 

Joseph Phelps 2010 Freestone Vineyards 

Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Bone 

dry, minerally and brisk in mouthwatering acidity, this 

has subtle yet rich flavors of tropical fruit, citrus, green 

apple and honey. It shows real elegance and complexity; 

drink now–2016. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $55 

94 

Piña 2009 Firehouse Vineyard 

Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Rutherford). Cabernets just don’t get 

much richer, riper or deeper than this 

single-vineyard beauty. Dry, tannic and 

fine in acidity, it’s a full-frontal assault of 

blackberries, cassis liqueur and new oak, 

concentrated beyond belief. The sheer 

magnitude demands time in the cellar. 

Try after 2015, and it could go far beyond 

that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $85 

94 

94 

Piña 2009 Wolff Vineyard 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). 

This shows the richness and power 

associated with Piña Cabernet, but is 

just a touch drier and more acidic than 

the winery’s offerings from warmer parts 

of Napa. With blackberry, cassis and 

dark chocolate flavors that are wrapped 

into ample tannins, it’s a wine that seriously 

wants at least 6–8 years in the cellar. 

Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 15.2% Price: $85 

Sobriquet Winery 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa 

Maria Valley). While this Pinot is huge in fruit 

and has a big, heavyweight mouthfeel, somehow it never 

loses its sense of delicacy and charm. The flavors are 

the essence of cherries: ripe, sweet and intense. This 

richness is balanced by the earthiness of a wild mushroom 

risotto. With brilliant acidity, it’s a wonderfully rewarding 

wine, easily on par with the 2009, perhaps a 

shade better. The grapes come from the famed Sierra 

Madre Vineyard. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $38 

94 

Trapiche 2009 Finca Domingo F. Sarmiento 

Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). 

This smells as deep as an ocean trench, with mint, cola, 

blackberry and toast aromas all rolled into a tight bomb 

that’s ready to explode. It feels balanced yet densely 

concentrated, with wild berry, tobacco, savory spice and 

even a mild saucy component. This finishes smooth, 

with integrated leather, herb and berry flavors. Drink 

any time over the next 5–6 years. The Wine Group. Editors’ 

Choice. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $50

94 

Viña Alicia 2008 Coleccion de Familia 

Brote Negro (Luján de Cuyo). This smallproduction 

Malbec is superb. The bouquet smells 

mossy, earthy, dense and loaded with smooth berry 

aromas. It’s lush, deep and well balanced on the palate, 

with powerful black-fruit flavors along with fudge, 

tobacco and cola notes. The feel, flavors and length are 

all top quality. Drink now–2018; only 230 cases were 

made. Southern Starz, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $90 

93 

Baldacci 2010 Sorelle Chardonnay 

(Carneros). This is powerful in tropical fruit, 

apricot and oak flavors, but balanced with acidity and a 

tangy, minerally taste of stones. Rich and evocative, it 

appeals to the senses while retaining a complex intellectual 

charm. Drink now with lobster or crab dishes, 

especially a rich, buttery risotto. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $38 

93 

Cave de Tain 2009 Gambert de Loche 

(Hermitage). With its massively concentrated 

blackberry fruit framed in ample new oak, this bears 

a bit of resemblance to some Australian Shirazes. It’s 

mouthfilling but supple, with nuances of Christmas 

spices like cinnamon, clove and anise that linger on 

the long finish. Drink 2014–2023. Cognac One, LLC. 

—J.C. 


93 

Duckhorn 2008 The Discussion Estate 

Grown (Napa Valley). This is by far the most 

expensive of Duckhorn’s new releases, but it’s not the 

best to drink now. Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s 

easy to imagine the winemaker singling out the most 

tannic and concentrated lots, but what you get is, simply, 

a very tannic wine. There’s a gigantic core of blackberry 

and black currant fruit, but it’s hard to appreciate 

because of the astringency. The suggestion is longterm 

aging, but there can be no guarantees. Cellar Selection. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $125 

93 

Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 La Louvée Syrah 

(Cornas). A full-bodied, rich wine, with 

tannins either supremely smoooth or just concealed under 

masses of plummy fruit. Yet despite the enormous 

ripeness, it’s not lacking nuance, boasting savory notes 

of espresso and leather. Drinkable now, but should age 

through 2023, at least. Palm Bay International. —J.C. 


93 

Korbin Kameron 2008 Cuvée Kristin Estate 

Blend Red Wine (Sonoma Valley). 

Delicious and classy, this is based on Merlot, with the 

other four classic Bordeaux varieties in proper proportion. 

It flatters immediately with its wealth of blackberries, 

black cherries, cola and mocha that finish so dry 

and spicy, yet it has that extra complexity that makes it 

intellectually interesting. Drink now and over the next 

six years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $55 

93 

Marimar Estate 2008 Dobles Lías Don 

Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian 

River Valley). This late-released bottling is incredibly 

interesting. Connoisseurs will appreciate the bone-dry 

minerality and acidity, the subtle creaminess from lees 

aging and the citrusy flavors that just begin to suggest 

tropical fruit. It should continue to develop in the bottle 

for a few more years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $45 

93 

Tenuta di Biserno 2007 Il Pino di Biserno 

(Toscana). From Marchese Lodovico Antinori’s 

beautiful wine estate in Bibbona, this boasts the 

heritage of the great super Tuscan family to which it belongs. 

The blend is Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, 

Merlot and Petit Verdot, and the overall effect is 

simply gorgeous. Richness, generosity and persistence 

characterize the mouthfeel, and the bouquet is driven 

by aromas of red cherry, chocolate and spice. Drink after 

2015. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. 

—M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $80 

93 

Trapiche 2009 Finca Suarez Lastra Single 

Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). Gorgeous 

balsam wood and graphite aromas blend seamlessly 

with ripe berry and black coffee scents. It feels lively yet 

cushioned, tasting like a wicked brew of maple, tobacco, 

berry pie and fine wood shavings. This is smooth, long 

and comfortable on the tobacco- and resin-flavored finish. 

Drink now–2018. The Wine Group. —M.S. 



93 

Walt 2010 La Brisa Pinot Noir (Sonoma 

County). Is it just a simple, delicious drinkme-now 

Pinot? Or is it actually complex and worthy 

of pairing with the best foods? It’s both. Front-loaded 

with raspberry purée, smoked butter and oak flavors, it 

has subtle layers of mushroom and dried pine that lift it 

into an ethereal place. Who cares if it will age? It’s dropdead 

gorgeous now. Char-broiled salmon could be your 

best pairing. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

92 

Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Pocai 

Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). 

The Pocai Vineyard is a very interesting one, growing 

Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon 

and Cabernet Franc, and the wines are always worth 

looking into. This Cabernet Franc, at four years of age, 

is mellowing, with the tannins turning gentle and the 

flavors becoming delicious and dramatic. Particularly 

bright in red cherries, it’s a beautiful wine for drinking 

over the next year or two. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $30 

92 

Cosa Obra 2011 Hummingbird Hill Vineyard 

Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast). 

This is potent in lime, sweet lemon, Asian pear and 

tropical fruit flavors, brightened with zesty acidity and 

enriched with notes of mineral and vanilla. Beautiful 

to drink, it will pair with everything from Thai food to 

risotto. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $24 


92 

Enrique Foster 2006 Limited Edition Malbec 

(Luján de Cuyo). This is cool, earthy and 

tight on the nose. Then it opens and blooms, with classy 

roasted notes that set the stage for a smooth-rolling palate 

with bold blackberry, herb and chocolate flavors. 

By the time it finishes, complex bitter-chocolate and 

toast notes have taken over. This is primed and ready to 

drink. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $47 

92 

Houdini 2010 Dean Block Chardonnay 

(Napa Valley). Tremendous flavors of honey, 

pear and orange jam are enriched with an oaky vanilla 

note. It’s wonderfully creamy and spicy, and while it 

seemingly tastes as sweet as a pastry, the finish is dry. 

Only 425 cases were produced. Editors’ Choice. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $25 

92 

Korbin Kameron 2007 Estate Grown Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). A beautiful 

Cabernet, this has all the hallmarks of a fine wine. 

It’s dry, rich in tannins and elegant, with long, deep flavors 

of blackberries, currants and dark chocolate. It’s already 

throwing some sediment, so give it a careful decant. 

Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $40 

92 

MacPhail 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Anderson Valley). This is forward and 

sweet in raspberry and cherry jams. However, it’s not a 

simple fruit bomb. With a mushroomy, gamy earthiness 

and refined tannins, it shows true complexity and structure. 

Not an ager, but it will be beautiful over the next 

few years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $49 

92 

Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Crozes-Hermitage. 

This full-bodied, creamy Crozes-Hermitage 

far outpaces expectations for the appellation, 

combining cherry-berry fruit with cracked pepper, mocha 

and licorice. Then it finishes long, anchored by a 

marriage of fruit and spice. It’s ready to drink now, but 

should evolve positively through at least 2017. Vineyard 

Brands. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 


92 

Migration 2010 Chardonnay (Russian 

River Valley). With a creamy mouthfeel and 

ripe flavors of tangerines, tropical fruits, honey and 

sweet oak, this is a flashy effort. It will appeal to fans of 

the variety, and rightfully so, delivering a dry complexity 

that lifts it way above the average. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $30

92 

Pessagno 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 

Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). 

Rich doesn’t begin to describe the layers of flavor and 

texture. This wine is massive, with notes of tropical fruit 

and apricot, with a slightly botrytized character that 

Sleepy Hollow Chardonnays often display. The oak is 

lavish and buttery, but perfectly matched to the wine’s 

volume. It also has classic Monterey acidity—as pert as 

a squeeze of lime. Delicious, full bodied and exotic, it 

defines its vineyard and appellation. —S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $32 

92 

Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Roccato (Toscana). 

Roccato is a blend of 50% Sangiovese 

and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon that’s packed with aromas 

of blackberry, leather, tobacco and chocolate. It’s velvety 

and rich, with a delicious touch of cherry and cinnamon 

on the long finish. Palm Bay International. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $60 

92 

Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Ser Gioveto (Toscana). 

A cheerful super Tuscan blend of Sangiovese, 

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this shows a 

very elegant and sophisticated side. It is modern, plump 

and extracted, but it also delivers fine aromas of cherry, 

vanilla, spice and pipe tobacco. Palm Bay International. 

—M.L. 


92 

Von Holt 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s lots of 

mouthwatering acidity in this bone-dry Pinot Noir, with 

an ample supply of ripe fruit in the form of raspberries 

and cherries. There’s also something wonderfully 

earthy, like roasted mushrooms splashed with balsamic 

and tamari sauce. The cool 2010 vintage was kind to 

Bacigalupi Vineyard, which can produce overripe wines 

in hot years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $39 

92 

Walt 2010 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 

Hills). High alcohol gives this Pinot some heat, 

but it also lends incredible richness and ripeness to the 

flavors, which range from raspberry jam and cherry pie 

filling to buttered toast, creamy vanilla and exotic spice. 

A delicious and heady offering from Napa Cabernet 

specialist Hall winery. —S.H. 

abv: 15.2% Price: $60 

92 

White Oak 2010 Estate Grown Chardonnay 

(Russian River Valley). This is White 

Oak’s best Chardonnay in years. The wine benefited 

from the chilly vintage, expressing citrus and tropical 

fruit flavors while preserving its vital acidity. It shows 

real elegance. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $24 

91 

Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Petit Verdot 

(St. Helena). This is rich and dramatic in 

blackberries and black currants, with an olive note and 

a lovely coating of cedar. Dry and tannic, it has plenty of 

class and elegance. Hard to see if this is a longterm ager, 

but it’s fine now and over the next four years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $38 

91 

Duckhorn 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). A 

lovely Merlot, this is pure, vibrant and elegant. 

It has classic cherry, red-currant and cedar flavors, and 

while there’s a sweetness at the core, the finish is thoroughly 

dry. Wonderful to drink now with steak or lamb. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $52 

91 

Gloria Ferrer 2009 Estate Chardonnay 

(Carneros). What this Chardonnay lacks in 

immediate fruity richness, it more than makes up for 

in austere, complex minerality. The flavors veer towards 

lemon and lime, with hints of tropical fruit and the 

sweet smokiness of barrel aging. The acidity is vital and 

rich. It’s a wine that develops complexity as it warms and 

opens up in the glass. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $18 


91 

Korbin Kameron 2008 Estate Grown Merlot 

(Sonoma Valley). Huge, flashy and dramatic, 

this shows brilliantly ripened fruit and an exquisite 

texture. Flavor wise, it tastes like pure pie filling 

seasoned with baking spices. But there’s nothing sweet 

in the finish. Instead, the wine is thoroughly and properly 

dry, as Merlot should be. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $35 

91 

MacPhail 2010 Wightman House Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This 

explodes with ripe raspberry, strawberry and cherry flavors, 

while the heat from the alcohol gives it the headiness 

of a liqueur. It’s definitely not a subtle wine, but 

one to enjoy now with grilled tuna, lamb or wild mushroom 

risotto. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $55 

91 

Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard 

Chardonnay-Albariño (Russian River 

Valley). This is one of the driest wines Marimar 

Estate ever has produced—in a good sense. The cool 

vintage has made the Chardonnay minerally and sleek, 

while Albariño brings its usual lemony crispness. The 

result is a versatile, stylishly elegant wine. —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $28 


91 

Piccini 2007 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana). 

A generous blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and 

Cabernet, this is round and velvety, delivering impressive 

aromatic intensity in the form of black cherry, ripe 

raspberry, spice, tobacco and dried rosemary. The finish 

is soft and long. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Editors’ Choice. 

—M.L. 


91 

Torres 2008 Mas La Plana Black Label 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Penedès). One of 

Spain’s most character-packed wines, this vintage of 

Mas La Plana deals bacon, berry and earthy aromas in 

front of a weighty, fairly tannic palate. Becoming richer 

and riper as it unfolds, this is full of prune, plum and 

earthy stewed-berry flavors. It gets better and shows 

more complexity with air. Drink now–2018. Dreyfus, 

Ashby & Co. —M.S. 


90 

Arnaldo Caprai 2010 Montefalco 

Rosso. The entire 

line-up from Arnaldo Caprai has been 

very successful this year. This blend of 

Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Merlot delivers 

a smooth mouthfeel and ripe fruit 

flavors, with background tones of black 

licorice and moist pipe tobacco. A spot 

of crisp acidity appears on the finish. Folio 

Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. 


90 

Forefathers 2008 Lone Tree Vineyard 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). 

Here’s a Cab that needs some time in the cellar. It’s rich 

in blackberries and cherries, with the dried herb earthiness 

often found in Alexander Valley Cabernets. Give it 

five years or so. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $50 

90 

Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend 

Red Blend (Napa County-Sonoma County-San 

Joaquin County). Made from a bunch of 

grape varieties, including Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon, 

this is a really nice wine, especially for the price. 

It’s dry, fruity and robust, with rich, earthy flavors of 

blackberries and spices. Easy to find, with 22,100 cases 

produced. From E&J Gallo. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

90 

Il Pollenza 2007 Red (Marche). This blend 

of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon 

and Cabernet Franc opens with jammy, almost impenetrable 

aromas of blackberry, maraschino cherry, pipe tobacco 

and dark chocolate. “Huge” is the operative word. 

Southern Wine and Spirits. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $57

90 

Kirkland Signature 2010 Cuvée de Nalys 

(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Full bodied and 

plush in texture, with extremely supple tannins alongside 

flavors of raspberry, plum and clove. The juicy 

beam of fresh fruit lingers nicely on the finish. Drink 

now–2018. DC Flynt MW Selections. Editors’ Choice. 

—J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

90 

MacPhail 2010 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir 

(Sonoma Coast). As appealing as a dessert 

pastry, this has raspberry and cherry fruit, with roasted 

almond, sweet vanilla and buttered toast flavors. Not 

particularly complex, but it scores high on the delicious 

scale. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $49 

90 

MacPhail 2010 Toulouse Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Anderson Valley). This is so rich 

and saturated you can taste the sunshine in every sip. 

It bursts across the palate with bright, jammy raspberry 

and cherry flavors. It may not have great subtlety or 

ageworthiness, but it excels for its sheer deliciousness. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $49 

90 

Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Riserva di 

Fizzano (Chianti Classico). With its inky 

concentration, rich extraction and ripe aromas of blackberry 

pie and cherry preserves, fine craftsmanship is 

evident. Soft veins of spice and chocolate weave elegantly 

throughout. Palm Bay International. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $30 

90 

Trig Point 2010 Diamond Dust Vineyard 

Merlot (Alexander Valley). A fine Merlot, 

softly lush and rich in cherries and mocha, wrapped into 

firm tannins. An earthy herb note grounds it, saving it 

from being simply a fruit bomb. Drink now. Editors’ 

Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $18 

90 



A beautiful Cabernet, this is soft, dry and delicious. It 

really showcases the Alexander Valley in its classic profile 

of herb-infused blackberry fruit and gentle tannins. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $22 

88 

Freixenet NV Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut 

(Cava). This is slightly smoky, toasty and yeasty 

up front, with a touch of matchstick to the nose. Rich, 

sweet tasting and candied on the palate, it has baking 

spice, apple and honeydew flavors. It’s tasty throughout 

and just elevated enough in mouthfeel to earn a few 

complexity points. Freixenet USA. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $18 

88 

Principe Pallavicini 2011 Poggio Verde 

(Frascati Superiore). A blend of Malvasia, 

Greco and Grechetto, this fresh white delivers zesty 

acidity and lively notes of bitter almond, white flower, 

citrus and crushed mineral. It would pair beautifully 

with a heaping plate of spaghetti con le vongole. Vias 

Imports. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

88 

Trapiche 2010 Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Mendoza). Cassis, sugar beet, leather 

and mild herbal aromas make this Cabernet appealing 

on the nose. It feels slightly syrupy and resiny, but with 

its core acidity the palate remains in good shape. Flavors 

of plum and cassis have a strong vanilla and oak 

resin accent, while the finish is tannic, roasted and robust. 

The Wine Group. —M.S. 



87 

Freakshow 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Lodi). Michael David’s new Cabernet Sauvignon 

brand has the winery’s signature toasted oak and 

coconut-kissed tannins. But it’s interestingly tamed, 

bearing bursts of black cherry and blackberry that 

effortlessly hit your palate in between quiet gusts of 

vanilla spice. —V.B. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $18 

87 

Il Pollenza 2011 Brianello (Marche). Pale 

gold in color, this pretty blend of Sauvignon 

Blanc and Trebbiano shows mineral notes and aromas 

of hay, light spice and stone fruit. Southern Wine and 

Spirits. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $14 

95 

SPIRITS 

Killepitsch (Germany; Vision 

Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, 

NJ). The special-edition bottle is 

modern and trippy, purple with pink lettering 

and a cartoony Keith Haringesque 

design. But the recipe for this traditional 

herbal liqueur dates back to the 

mid 1800s—“a taste of old Dusseldorf.” 

Old or new, it’s complex and delicious, 

with a Cognac-like dried-fruit and spice 

base—raisins, dates, cherries, figs, cinnamon, 

sarsaparilla and black pepper all 

can be detected. Would make a dynamite 

digestif, especially paired with a 

fruity dessert. 



SPIRITS 

94 

Patrón XO Café Dark 

Cocoa (Mexico; The 

Patron Spirits Company, Las 

Vegas, NV). This addictive newcomer 

from Tequila maker Patron 

combines coffee, chocolate and silver 

Tequila. It looks and smells like 

a dead ringer for your morning 

espresso. But on the palate, sweet, 

almost nutty agave notes emerge, 

fading into a creamy, caramel milk-chocolate profile, 

with just a dusting of espresso on the finish. This liqueur 

lends itself to mixing with coffee or crafting espresso 

martini cocktails, yet it’s polished enough to sip straight 

up over ice. 


92 

Schwartzhog Kräuter Liqueur 

(Germany; The Other 

Wine & Spirits, Miami, FL). 

Look for a deep brick-red color and 

pleasing orange and dried-fruit scents. 

Light and mouthwatering, finishing 

with an herbal lilt. Nice postprandial 

sipper. 

abv: 36.7% Price: $15 

91 

Bottega Limoncino (Italy; 

Palm Bay International, 

Port Washington, NY). Made with 

Sicilian lemons and grappa, this “limoncino” 

has a lingering, bright lemoncandy 

flavor cut by a welcome fillip of 

brisk alcohol, which softens the sweetness, 

and a hint of lemongrass. Although 

the brand recommends using 

the spirit for lemon drop cocktails, it 

would be equally at home in a drink 

with gin or infused with botanicals like 

rosemary. 


91 

SPIRITS 

Sorel Liqueur (USA; Jack 

from Brooklyn, Brooklyn, 

NY). This new spirit based on a traditional 

Caribbean recipe, features a 

deep plum color thanks to macerated 

hibiscus and a spicy clove aroma that 

seems to leap out of the glass. Although 

it can be used to add pretty color to gin 

or vodka cocktails, or to spice up a 

warm toddy, it’s addictively sippable 

straight up, with a mild alcohol level 

that won’t leave you reeling. 


89 

Bottega Gianduia (Italy; 


Port Washington, NY). The innocent-looking 

light brown hue evokes 

chocolate milk. But the aroma warns of 

decadence, with a luscious candy-bar 

aroma, nuts and rich milk chocolate. In 

the mouth, it melts into a thick and velvety 

feel, with a boozy, milky finish. It’s 

like sipping liquified chocolate laced 

with hazelnut liqueur. 


89 

Pisa Liqueur (Italy; Vision 

Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, 

NJ). The marzipan aroma is huge, 

wafting off the glass when it is still an 

arm’s length away. The big, stickysweet 

almond and hazelnut flavor is 

overwhelming at first, but pulls back 

quickly, leaving just a delicate whisper 

of nuts and orange on the finish. Beyond 

the glass, this would be a great 

addition to baked goods or spooned 

over fruit or ice cream. 

abv: 24% Price: $25

89 

88 

SPIRITS 

Bottega Sambuca (Italy; 


Port Washington, NY). Made from 

the essential oils from star-anise seeds, 

this clear and bright digestif smells and 

tastes like Good & Plenty licorice candies. 

Viscous and tongue coating. Stir 

into coffee or sip straight up, well 

chilled. 


BEER 

Blue Moon Vintage Blonde Ale Reserve 

Collection 2011 (American Blonde Ale; 

Blue Moon Brewing Company, CO). This vinous 

beer brewed with Chardonnay grape juice is a nice 

crossover beer for wine lovers. It pours a clear, light 

gold color with a frothy but fleeting white head, and 

shows good carbonation. The bouquet is fruit forward, 

brimming with notes of lemon and ripe white grapes. 

Earthy spice and toasted grain accents in the background 

increase in intensity on the palate alongside ripe 

notes of peach and apple. The finish is clean, with just a 

hint of honeyed sweetness on the back. 

abv: 8.5% Price: $10/750 ml 

92 

BEST BUYS 

DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Touriga Nacional 

(Lisboa). The combination of blackberry 

fruit and firm, dark tannins has created a complex, 

impressive wine. This has plenty of fruit, but the main 

components at this stage are its weight and structure. 

It has considerable aging potential; keep for 3–4 years. 

Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 


91 

BEST BUYS 

Aveleda 2010 Follies Fonte Nossa Senhora 

da Vandoma Touriga Nacional- 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Beiras). Concentrated and 

powerful, this is a rich and intense black-fruited wine. 

Notes of spice, herb and dark chocolate mingle with 

the flavor of black plum juice and firm, dry tannins. The 

result is a wine that needs several more years to age. 

FJN Fine Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

91 

DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Alicante 

Bouschet (Lisboa). This is deeply colored 

and rich, showing both the juicy fruit character of Alicante 

Bouschet and a more serious, concentrated element. 

It’s solid and densely tannic, with wood flavors 

layered on its black plum fruit. This is worth aging for 

another two years. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. 

—R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

90 

Aveleda 2010 Follies Casa da Aguieira 

Touriga Nacional (Beiras). Wood laden, this 

is a spice- and fruit-flavored wine. It’s complex, dense 

and packed with dusty tannins. Still young, although already 

finely balanced, its structure is powerful and the 

wine is dark, full and rich. Age for 2–3 years. FJN Fine 

Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 


89 

BEST BUYS 

Aveleda 2011 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho 

Verde). From Aveleda’s home estate, this is a 

lively wine with crisp fruit. Bone dry, the palate shows 

a more serious, intensely citric element, showing bright 

acidity on the finish. FJN Fine Wines LLC. Best Buy. 

—R.V. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $9 

89 

Bourgeois Family 2009 Elicio Grenache- 

Merlot (Vin de Pays de la Méditerranée). 

It’s an unusual blend, but it works, creating a round, 

supple wine for immediate enjoyment. Hints of orange 

peel, coriander and green olive bring complexity 

to notes of plum and cherry, while the finish turns dark 

and espresso-like. Bourgeois Family Selections. Best 

Buy. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

88 

Freixenet NV Cordon Rosado (Cava). This 

is always a really good buy among rosé sparklers 

and a personal favorite in the Best Buy category. 

It opens with red fruit, vanilla and yeasty aromas, but 

it’s racy, crisp and refined in the mouth, with nectarine, 

peach and controlled citrus flavors. It’s dry, spicy 

and fairly smooth on the finish. Freixenet USA. Best 

Buy. —M.S. 



88 

BEST BUYS 

Mas Fi NV Brut (Cava). Clean, stylish and 

easy to like, this has apple and green herb aromas. 

It shows a good weight and mouthfeel, with papaya, 

thyme and baked apple flavors. Medium long 

and smooth on the finish, this is a commendable valuepriced 

bubbly. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $11 

88 

Segura Viudas NV Brut Reserva (Cava). 

This is as crisp and dry as a whispy reed, with a 

mild grassy note on the nose. It feels fresh and focused, 

with lime, peach and apple flavors. Fruity, fresh and 

easy to like from start to finish, this is what a Best Buy 

should be. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. 


88 

Wente 2010 Riverbank Riesling (Arroyo 

Seco). Off-dry to sweet, this is firmed up with 

crisp acidity. The citrus, honeysuckle and vanilla flavors 

are easy to like, with a flowery, sweet finish. This 

delightful Riesling calls to mind gardens on summer 

evenings. Best Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $13 


87 

BEST BUYS 

Marqués de Cáceres 2011 White (Rioja). 

Cheers to one of Rioja’s most basic yet consistent 

white wines. Minerally and crystalline on the nose, 

with dusty apple, melon and stony aromas, this Viura is 

fresh, dry and average in weight. It tastes of papaya and 

apple, finishing dry and clean. Vineyard Brands. Best 

Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

86 

El Coto 2011 White (Rioja). This is grassy 

and pungent up front, with citrus, nectarine and 

apple aromas. It feels crisp and tangy, with chalky grip 

and flavors of citrus and green apple. Snappy and long 

on the finish, this is a Sauvignon Blanc-styled Viura. 

Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. 


86 

L. Tramier et Fils NV Bourricot Rosé (Vin 

de France). Fragrant and fruity, this is an attractive, 

full rosé. It has just the right amount of red currant 

acidity to go with the ripe strawberry note. Ready 

to drink. Luxe Vintages. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $10 

86 

BEST BUYS 

McManis 2011 Chardonnay (River Junction). 

Using grapes sourced from a cool subappellation 

of the Lodi area, this is a fine, ripe wine that 

finishes sweetly on a note of vanilla. Its acidity is in balance, 

making this a wine that will easily please a crowd. 

Best Buy. —V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

86 

Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Merlot (California). 

If this Merlot had greater flavor intensity, 

it would be spectacular. It’s a very nice photocopy of a 

great Merlot, meaning that the berry and spice fruit is 

soft in focus but pleasurable. A great value—dry and 

classy in its own way. Best Buy. —S.H. 


85 

Cable Car 2010 Chardonnay (Lodi). An 

easygoing, crisp and well-priced Chardonnay, 

this has swirls of smooth apple and pear. Best Buy. 

—V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 

BEST BUYS 

85 

House Band NV Chardonnay 

(California). Sold in individual 

375-ml pouches or 4-packs, 

this is a dry, clean wine with lots of 

acidity that brightens the creamy apricot, 

orange and peach flavors. Best 

Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $5/375 ml 

Piccini 2011 Chianti. Fresh and simple, this 

iconic Chianti from Piccini boils the Tuscan red 

wine experience down to its easiest and most genuine 

state. This is a crisp, lean wine with a ruby color and 

bright berry aromas. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. 

—M.L. 


85 

Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Pinot Noir (Mendoza). 

Earthy and warm on the nose, this has 

compost and leafy raspberry aromas. It shows good feel 

and balance, with light plum, cherry and citrus-infused 

tea flavors. The finish is good and solid, concluding with 

a tobacco note. The Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. 


84 

BEST BUYS 

J. Garcia Carrion 2009 Antaño Tempranillo 

(Rioja). This is snappy all the way, if a 

touch raw and citric on the palate. Freshness is a virtue 

on this affordable Rioja, while red plum, raspberry and 

milk chocolate notes carry the flavor profile. Drink now. 

CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $6 

CORRECTIONS 

On page 24 of the August issue, we incorrectly stated 

that Dana Farner was a master sommelier. Farner has 

only passed the tasting portion of the exam. 

On page 92 of the August issue, we incorrectly listed 

Erin Smith as sommelier of Restaurant August. Erin 

White is the sommelier. 

On page 20 of the September issue, we incorrectly attributed 

a quote to Chef Eiji Ichimura. It should have 

referenced Chef Isao Yamada. 

On page 50 of the September isuse, we incorrectly 

identified Roman Coppola as Philippe Bascaules. 

NEXT MONTH 

HERE’S WHAT’S COMING UP IN WINE 

ENTHUSIAST'S NOVEMBER MAGAZINE: 

Top 100 Best Buys of 2012 

Of the thousands of wines tasted this year, the editors of 

Wine Enthusiast reveal their picks of the top Best Buys. 

A Driving Tour of Piedmont 

With its beautiful scenery, fabulous wines and the 

region’s famous white truffles, who wouldn’t want to 

take a road trip through this gourmand’s paradise? 

Pairing Cheese & Wine 

When the two complex worlds of cheese and wine 

collide, it’s enough to exasperate any gourmet No 

longer, thanks to this easy pairing guide. 

87 

Sogevinus 2011 Curva (Douro). This is an 

apple-crisp wine that’s laced with a zing of lemon 

zest. Taut and nervy, this is straight as an arrow in 

terms of its fresh acidity. It’s lively, bright and ready to 

drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. 


86 

Quinta do Portal 2011 Portal Colheita 

Branco (Douro). Spicy and perfumed, this 

has a rich yellow-fruit flavor that’s contrasted with a 

crisp pink-grapefruit edge. It’s rounded and smooth, 

with a taut, herbal burst on the finish. M Imports, LLC. 

—R.V. 


85 

Barros 2011 White (Douro). Very aromatic, 

this has flavors of lychee and lemon. It has a 

spicy feel to it, giving it a soft, rounded texture. Ready to 

drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. 


LISBOA WHITES 

90 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 DFJ White (Lisboa). 

Round and smooth, this has a weighty, 

full-bodied structure, with the Alvarinho adding a more 

crisp character. Pear and melon fruits are balanced by 

citrusy acidity. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 


88 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Grand’Arte Alvarinho 

(Lisboa). For an Alvarinho this is surprisingly 

herbaceous, bearing a green cut-grass aroma and lemon 

and pink grapefruit flavors. As the wine fills out over 

the next year, it will probably show more of the grape’s 

creamed apple and pear flavors. Dionysos Imports Inc. 

Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $11 

88 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Grand’Arte Arinto (Lisboa). 

Swathes of ripe fruit surface on this wine, 

with lime and peach flavors followed by a more minerally 

texture. It’s a wine to drink now or age over the next 

year. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $11 

87 

Companhia das Quintas 2011 Pancas 

Branco (Lisboa). This is a piercingly fresh 

wine from vines close to the Atlantic Ocean. The citrusy 

acidity is balanced by riper yellow fruit and pineapple. 

Age for a few months, but it can also be consumed now. 

Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $12 

86 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Paxis Branco Arinto 

(Lisboa). Smooth and oily in texture, this is 

round and full of pear juice flavor. There is just a touch 

of green legume, adding piquancy to this ripe wine. 

Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 


85 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Casa do Lago Branco 

(Lisboa). This is rich and smooth, with rounded 

and ripe fruit. Red apple, banana and lime flavors 

work together to yield a wine that’s ready to drink. Dionysos 




85 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Coreto Branco (Lisboa). 

This is an attractively balanced apple- and pearflavored 

wine. It is crisp, fruity and nicely creamy, with 

some bright acidity on the finish Drink now or age for a 

year. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: NA Price: $6 

85 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Portada Winemaker’s 

Selection White (Lisboa). This has soft, ripe 

fruit, with notes of lime and orange zest fitting easily 

with the ripe peach and melon flavors. This is warm, 

rounded and ready to drink. LGL Imports LLC. Best 

Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $7 

84 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Point West (Lisboa). A 

rounded wine, this gives pleasure with its pear 

and ripe apple flavors. Lightly touched with acidity, this 

has a soft finish. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

84 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Segada Branco (Lisboa). 

This is fruity, with pear and baked apple 

flavors that lend a rich, spicy character. It has some 

weight along with an attractive touch of acidity. Dionysos 



84 

Quinta do Gradil NV Filigrana (Lisboa). A 

fresh prickle gives this crisp, Vinho Verde lookalike 

its lively lift. Semi-sweet and fragrant, this has 

acidity and flavors of green apple and citrus. Grape Moments. 

—R.V. 


83 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Storks Landing White 

(Lisboa). Very soft and easy going, this has 

rounded peach and apple flavors. The acidity is light, 

hinting at citrus. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. 

—R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $8 

VINHO VERDE 

90 

Adega de Monção 2010 Deu la Deu Alvarinho 

(Vinho Verde). Monção is the home 

of Portuguese Alvarinho. Ripe and opulent, this is full 

of yellow fruit, tangy citrus and intense acidity. After an 

extra year of aging, this finely balanced and impressive 

wine is ready to drink. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 


90 

Wines & Winemakers 2011 Nostalgia Alvarinho 

(Vinho Verde). This is a rich, fullbodied 

and impressive wine, with intense and complex 

flavors of apple and green fruit. The acidity meshes with 

the ripe fruit. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. 


89 

Adega de Monção 2011 Muralhas de 

Monção (Vinho Verde). With a high proportion 

of Alvarinho in the blend, this is round, with a 

creamed apple flavor. It is ripe, full and delicious now. 

Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 



89 

Aveleda 2011 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho 

Verde). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $9 

89 

Wines & Winemakers 2011 Toucas (Vinho 

Verde). This is very aromatic, with lively 

acidity, a soft and creamy texture, and a rounded 

yellow-fruit flavor that’s balanced by a citrus note. It is 

elegant, rich and worth aging for another year. Iberia 

Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $19 

88 

Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Avesso (Vinho 

Verde). Avesso, a rare varietal in the Vinho 

Verde region, has produced a smooth and ripe wine. It 

has flavors of green olive, pear and a tight citrus character. 

There’s fine depth of flavor on this delicious wine. 

P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. 


88 

Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Alvarinho (Vinho 

Verde). Floral and aromatic, this has a hint 

of prickle to go with the citrus, green apple and white 

peach flavors. There is an attractive mineral character— 

the wine dancing and fragrant. P.R. Grisley Company. 

—R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $16 

87 

Vera 2011 Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Crisp 

and green, this has a ripe, rounded apple flavor 

that lends the wine richness. There is a yeasty character 

to go with the fruitiness, while the refreshing acidity 

lasts through the finish. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. 

—R.V. 


86 

Adega de Monção 2011 Fuzelo (Vinho 

Verde). Lightly smooth and crisp, this is dominated 

by a citrus flavor and bright acidity. It’s a typical, 

easy-drinking wine that’s ready to consume now. Aidil 

Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 


86 

Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Loureiro (Vinho 

Verde). This manages to be rounded and crisp 

at the same time, giving an intense citrus flavor and a 

soft texture, with just a touch of honey on the finish. P.R. 

Grisley Company. —R.V. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $13 

86 

Vera 2011 Vinho Verde. This is delightful 

and lightly sweet, bubbling in the mouth with 

notes of citrus, mandarin orange and some richer peach 

and white fruit flavors. The acidity gives the wine a lively 

lift. Screwcap. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V. 


85 

Aveleda 2011 Aveleda (Vinho Verde). 

There is a healthy pop as you open this lightly 

sparkling, just off-dry Vinho Verde. It has a citrusy 

lemon-sherbet tang of acidity, combining with a light 

dancing touch. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 


85 

Caves Aliança 2011 Aliança (Vinho 

Verde). Lightly sweet, this is freshened with a 

lemon zest flavor and a bright prickle on the palate. It’s 

crisp, fresh and ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 


85 

Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Grande Escolha 

(Vinho Verde). This is a pleasant, fruity Vinho 

Verde with the right fresh lemon flavor. There is a light 

prickle to add to the crisp character. P.R. Grisley Company. 

—R.V. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $18 

84 

Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Branco (Vinho 

Verde). Light and crisp, this offers a subtle 

prickle on the palate. The lively apple and grapefruit flavors 

are right up front along with a light sweetness. FJN 

Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 


84 

Quinta do Portal 2011 Trevo (Vinho 

Verde). This is a lively, off-dry wine with intense 

acidity to accompany its crisp apple and citrus flavors. 

Very fruity, it’s ready to drink now. Screwcap. M 

Imports, LLC. —R.V. 

abv: 10.5% Price: $9 

84 

Wines & Winemakers 2011 Clemens 

Reserva (Vinho Verde). Crisp and herbaceous, 

this is a green-fruited wine that’s light on the palate, 

offering delightful refreshing acidity. This is very 

fruity and ready to drink. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. 


84 

Wines & Winemakers 2011 Salsus (Vinho 

Verde). The light prickle adds to the natural 

freshness of this lemon-sherbet-flavored wine. Very 

crisp and light in the mouth, this dances on the palate 

with just a touch of sweetness. Ararat Import/Export 

Co. LLC. —R.V. 


OTHER WHITE WINES 

91 

Companhia das Quintas 2010 Morgado 

de Santa Catherina Reserva (Bucelas). 

Wood-aged, this is a ripe-textured wine that has rich 

flavors of yellow and white fruits and toast. It has concentrated, 

intense fruit that bursts in the mouth. Delicious 

and impressive, this could be aged for another two 

years. Importo LLC. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $25 

90 

Aveleda 2011 Follies Janela Manuelina 

(Minho). This blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro 

is both herbaceous and ripe. The tang of the texture 

manages to bring out the grapefruit flavor while allowing 

space for the underlying white peach note. The finish 

is rich, and the wine will age for another year. FJN 

Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 


89 

Caves Aliança 2011 Quinta da Garrida 

Reserva Branco (Dão). Rich and ripe, this 

has pear, peach and quince fruits that are rounded out 

by wood aging. It has a floral character that balances 

the richness. It will age for another two years. Tri-Vin 

Imports. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Companhia das Quintas 2011 Prova Ré- 

88 gia Premium Arinto (Bucelas). Delicious, 

rich and fruity, this is full of peach and citrus fruits that 

add lift to the wine’s ripeness. It’s a great apéritif and 

would also pair well with seafood. Importo LLC. —R.V. 


87 

Aveleda 2011 Alvarinho (Minho). Bringing 

out the herbaceous side of Alvarinho, this is a 

freshly crisp wine. It has grapefruit and green apple flavors, 

with the acidity brightening the texture on the finish. 

FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 


86 

Falua 2011 Conde de Vimioso Colheita 

Seleccionada (Tejo). This is soft, more 

creamy than crisp, with an attractive floral character 

that details the soft pear flavor. Not for aging, so drink 

this over the next year. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

86 

Wines & Winemakers 2011 Samora Branco 

(Tejo). Attractive and herbaceous, this has 

an apple flavor that’s laced with a citrus note. Fresh and 

crisp, it’s fruity, forward and can be consumed now. 



85 

Caves Aliança 2011 Galeria Bical (Bairrada). 

Soft and gentle, this has pear and ripe 

apple flavors, with a light touch of creamy acidity. It’s a 

food-friendly wine—round and ready to drink. Tri-Vin 



84 

Wines & Winemakers 2011 Dona Helena 

Branco (Setubal). Light and fragrant, this has 

pear and lemon flavors. It’s ripe, soft and ready to drink. 

Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. 


SPARKLING WINE 

85 

Aveleda NV Casal Garcia (Vinho 

Espumante). A medium-sweet sparkling 

wine, this bursts with a ripe apple flavor on the palate. 

The wine is crisp, deliciously clean and refreshing. 

Think of it like Moscato. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 


ROSÉS 

85 

Adega de Monção 2011 Muralhas de 

Monção Rosé (Vinho Verde). There is a 

light prickle to this freshly crisp and dry rosé. It bursts 

with raspberry and red currant flavors, tangy acidity and 

a lively finish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 


85 

Churchill’s 2011 Rosé (Douro). Made from 

Touriga Nacional, this is a deliciously light, crisp 

and clean strawberry-flavored wine. It has lively acidity 

and a real summer feel. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman 

& Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 


85 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Casa do Lago Rosé 

(Lisboa). Smooth and rounded, this is a foodfriendly 

rosé. It has a ripe strawberry flavor, with a touch 

of lime juice and a soft, full finish. Just a touch of tannin 

gives extra character. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best 

Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $8 

85 


Selection Rosé (Lisboa). Soft and ripe, a 

flavor of crushed strawberries leads this wine in a fruity 

direction. It has notes of vanilla and spice, with attractive 

balancing acidity. This is a food-friendly rosé. LGL 

Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 


85 

Falua 2011 Conde de Vimioso Colheita 

Seleccionada Rosé (Tejo). Bright and 

fruity, with a tannic edge, this is a blend of Touriga Nacional 

and Syrah. This is food friendly, with a rich redfruit 

flavor that’s cut with a caramel note and strawberry 

acidity. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 


85 

Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Padeiro Rosé 

(Vinho Verde). Very fruity and smooth, 

this has a ripe strawberry flavor and balancing acidity. 

It shows some richness while remaining crisp and 

fragrant. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. 


85 

Quinta do Portal 2011 Colheita Rosé 

(Douro). This is rich and dry yet also fruity. 

Perfumed in character, it is full, soft and smooth, allowing 

the acidity a place on the finish. M Imports, LLC. 

—R.V. 


85 

Vera 2011 Rosé (Vinho Verde). This is a 

seemingly weet rosé, with a good balance between 

its strawberry fruit and acidity. The wine is slightly 

sparkling and crisp, making it a delicious apéritif. 

Screwcap. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V. 


84 

Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Rosé (Vinho 

Verde). Crisp and intensely acidic, this has a 

touch of tannin that adds structure. It has red apple 

fruit, giving roundness and some sweetness on the finish. 

Screwcap, FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 


84 

Caves Aliança 2011 Vista Rosé (Terras 

da Beira). Ripe and soft, this is made from 

Tinta Roriz. It is rich and full bodied, with its rounded 

strawberry fruit leaving just enough room on the palate 

for crispness. Screwcap. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 


84 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Monte Alentejano Rosé 

(Alentejano). Smooth, rounded and dry, this 

has plum and strawberry flavors. Full in the mouth and 

touched by spice, this is a rosé for food. Dionysos Imports 

Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 


84 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Pink Elephant Rosé 

(Lisboa). Fruity and off-dry, this has light 

touches of sweet strawberry and vanilla to go with the 

orange zest acidity. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. 



84 

Parras Vinhos NV Filigrana Rosé (Lisboa). 

With an attractive fresh prickle on the 

palate, this is a crisp wine with a red fruit flavor, acidity 

and a soft, sweet finish. Grape Moments. —R.V. 


84 

Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Espadeiro Rosé 

(Vinho Verde). This is a fresh and fragrant 

rosé from the Vinho Verde region. It has light acidity 

and a red fruit flavor. The lightest prickle gives just that 

extra lift. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $13 

84 

Wines & Winemakers 2011 Azul Portugal 

Rosé (Setubal). Ripe and fruity, this bears a 

red berry flavor and a dry structure. It has weight, richness 

and a smooth finish. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. 

—R.V. 


84 

Wines & Winemakers 2011 Samora Rosé 

(Tejo). This is a floral, aromatic and dry rosé, 

full of red currant fruit and refreshing acidity. It’s a great 

apéritif wine. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. 


83 

DFJ Vinhos 2011 Coreto Rosé (Lisboa). 

This is a rounded, full-bodied rosé that also has 

a herbal element. It has a wild strawberry flavor, with 

light acidity and sweetness. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports 

Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 


83 

Wines & Winemakers 2011 Dona Helena 

Rosé (Setubal). Soft, with strawberry flavors 

and only light acidity, this has a caramel burst that surfaces 

on the finish. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. 


ALENTEJANO REDS 

92 

Companhia das Quintas 2009 Herdade 

da Farizoa Grand Escolha (Alentejano). 

A dark-colored, wood-aged wine, this is serious and 

power ful. It has tannic weight along with a black berry 

flavor, and a smooth tar and herb layer that’s all balanced 

by the acidity. The wood still needs another year 

to fully integrate; age for another 2–3 years. Importo 

LLC. —R.V. 


92 

Monte Seis Reis 2007 Reserva (Alentejano). 

The smooth oak aging is a major element 

in the success of this elegant wine. While it has rich, polished 

black fruits and a strong tannic core, it also has a 

licorice character. It is now maturing, ready to drink as 

a serious, complex wine. Mediterranean Specialty Products. 

—R.V. 


91 

Adega Mayor 2008 Pai Chão Garrafeira 

(Alentejano). The top red from Adega Mayor, 

this is serious and impressive. Its firm, dry and dusty 


tannins are balanced by an intense blackberry flavor and 

contrasted with licorice and coffee notes. As it ages, it 

will become more intense and elegant. Aidil Wines & 

Liquor Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 


91 

Companhia das Quintas 2009 Herdade 

da Farizoa Reserva (Alentejano). Densely 

tannic, this is also full of sweet berry fruits. Powerful 

and superripe, its fruit is beginning to integrate into the 

big, smoky, chocolaty structure. The finish shows both 

toast and juicy fruit notes. Keep for 3–4 years. Importo 

LLC. —R.V. 


90 

Herdade Grande 2008 Reserva (Alentejano). 

Solid and powerful, this has its tannins 

wound around flavors of dark plum skin and blackberry. 

It’s concentrated and chunky, with bitter chocolate and 

spice notes added to the mix. Age for 2–3 years. Grape 

Moments. —R.V. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

89 

Herdade das Servas 2008 Touriga Nacional 

(Alentejano). While the aromas are 

earthy, with a farmyard character, the finely textured 

palate is fruitier. The tannins give a firm, structured 

base for the red currant flavor. Solid and rich, this is 

now maturing, but it retains its youthful acidity. Simões 


abv: 14.5% Price: $26 

88 

Adega Mayor 2010 Monte Mayor (Alentejano). 

The very soft, juicy red fruit characterizes 

this easy, ripe wine. It has a light tannic core, with its 

dryness kept well in check by the exuberant, juicy fruit. 

Young and fruity, it is ready for aging over the next two 

years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 


88 

Adega Mayor 2007 Reserva do Comendador 

(Alentejano). This is ripe, almost too 

ripe, with its broad red fruits and soft tannins. The texture 

is smooth, with a burst of acidity. It’s ready to drink 

now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 


88 

Herdade das Servas 2010 Monte das 

Servas (Alentejano). Very fruity, this is full 

of red fruits, soft tannins and juicy acidity. The wine is 

soft, forward and immediately appealing due to its acidity 

and aromatic finish. Simões Imports. —R.V. 


88 

Herdade Grande 2010 Red (Alentejano). 

Full bodied and rich, this has a well-balanced 

structure, with a dry, tannic core. It’s powerful and 

packed with a juicy black-fruit flavor. This can be aged 

for at least two years. Grape Moments. —R.V. 


88 

José Maria da Fonseca 2010 José de 

Sousa (Alentejano). This is an earthy wine 

that packs ripe fruit with structure and acidity. There is 

a juicy character from the red berry flavor that is given 

shape by the underlying tannins. Palm Bay International. 

—R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $16 


88 

Monte Seis Reis 2009 Private Selection 

(Alentejano). This is very ripe, rounded and 

rich, with its black fruit dominating the tarry, tannic 

character. Chocolate and mint notes surface from the 

wood aging. With its dark toast element, this could age 

another two years. Mediterranean Specialty Products. 

—R.V. 

abv: NA Price: $NA 

88 

Monte Seis Reis 2008 Syrah (Alentejano). 

This is big and powerful, soft and rounded, 

with the tannins buried in the foward black-fruit flavor. 

It’s almost too dense for its own good, a blockbuster that 

has ripe fruit, but misses out on structure. Mediterranean 

Specialty Products. —R.V. 


87 

Companhia das Quintas 2010 Farizoa 

(Alentejano). Ripe and soft, this has notes 

of plum skins, black cherries, dark chocolate and toast 

from the wood aging. It’s structured, powerful and 

worth aging for 2–3 years, although its richness makes 

it drinkable now. Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 


87 

Herdade Grande 2009 15 Vendimias Colheita 

Seleccionada (Alentejano). Balanced 

and structured, this has red fruit flavors, firm tannins 

and a core of concentrated dryness. It is ready to drink, 

although it could age for another year. Grape Moments. 

—R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

86 

Herdade dos Machedos 2010 Toutalga 

(Alentejano). This is a ripe-fruited wine, rich 

with dried fruits, sweet tannins and a soft texture. With 

its weight and juicy character, this is ready to drink. Sarmento’s 

Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 


86 

Monte Seis Reis 2010 Boa Memória Red 

(Alentejano). This is spicy, with a dry, dusty 

character that’s laid over the blackberry fruit. It is full 

on the palate, almost sweet in character, showing a soft, 

warm finish. Mediterranean Specialty Products. —R.V. 


84 

Herdade dos Machedos 2009 Morgado 

da Canita (Alentejano). This feels very ripe, 

perhaps overripe, with its seemingly sweet flavor of 

black fruit juice and its soft structure. It’s appealing and 

does have some tannins, but it is not for aging. Sarmento’s 

Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 


ALENTEJO REDS 

92 

Caves Aliança 2008 T Quinta da Terrugem 

(Alentejo). Firm and structured, this is 

a densely rich wine for aging. Firm tannins dominate its 

ripe black fruit, lending notes of spice, licorice and toast 

from the wood. It needs several years of aging to round 

out—give it four years at least. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar 

Selection. —R.V. 


89 

Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta da Terrugem 

(Alentejo). Deep, rich and softly ripe, this is 

a powerful, generous wine. Its tannins are cushioned 

within the ripe blackberry and milk chocolate flavors. 

Ready to drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 


88 

Herdade dos Machedos 2010 Santos 

Jorge (Alentejo). Big, bold and tannic, this 

has a solid structure that’s balanced by ripe fruit. It is 

full bodied, rich in damson and plum flavors, with a 

firm, dusty texture. Drink now, but this can also age over 

the next 1–2 years. Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc. 



BAIRRADA REDS 

92 

Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta das Baceladas 

(Bairrada). Earthy aromas are a hallmark 

of the Baga grape, a component of this full-bodied, tannic 

blend. With weight and richness, a mint note and 

new wood flavors, it is a serious wine that still should 

develop over three years. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar 

Selection. —R.V. 


91 

Ataide da Costa Martins Seredo 2009 

Ataide Seredo Reserva (Bairrada). Big, 

rich and ripe, this is packed with intense black fruits 

and dark tannins, with the solid structure yielding a 

dense core. Its fruit is balanced by acidity, giving the 

wine essential lift. Age for 4–5 years. Obrigado Vinhos 

Portugal. —R.V. 


88 

Ataide da Costa Martins Seredo 2010 

Ataide Seredo (Bairrada). With Baga in the 

blend, this is a firm, ripe and tannic wine. It has a rich, 

tarry character, with dark plum and blueberry fruits. 

With its solid structure, this should age over 2–3 years. 

Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V. 


BEIRA INTERIOR REDS 

93 

Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta do 

Cardo Grande Escolha (Beira Interior). 

An impressive, serious wine that’s only produced in top 

vintages. It’s elegant and complex, a powerful wine with 

its dark tannins, licorice and black plum flavors. Concentrated 

and intense, it’s worth aging for at least four 


abv: 13.5% Price: $55 

91 


Cardo Reserva Touriga Nacional (Beira 

Interior). From its almost black color, it’s obvious this 

is a powerful wine. The wood aging is initially apparent, 

with a mint flavor laid over firm, dry tannins. Then 

comes the ripe berry flavor and acidity. The integrated 

combination is dark, powerful and ready to age over 3–4 

years. Importo LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 


91 


Cardo Selecção do Enólogo (Beira Interi-

or). This is an austere wine that blossoms slowly. Using 

grapes sourced from a vineyard at an elevation of 2,000 

feet, this has a wild herb character along with dark black 

fruits and tannins that need several years to age. Give 

this very ageworthy effort at least four years. Imports 

Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $16 

90 


Cardo (Beira Interior). A firmly tannic wine, 

this has a dark structure and black fruits. It has a strong 

minerally character to go with its fruit and acidity. With 

its weight and tannins, it has the potential to age for over 

several years. Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 


BEIRAS REDS 

93 

Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2009 Vinhas 

Velhas de Santa Maria (Beiras). Initial new 

wood flavors show the youth of this complex wine. Then 

it fills out in the mouth with an explosive blackberry flavor 

and dense fruit tannins. With its power and flavor 

intensity, it has firm potential to age over at least five 

years. Winebow. —R.V. 


92 

Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2009 Red (Beiras). 

Dark, with dusty tannins and a solid, firm 

structure, this has a dense character. The black plum 

fruit and intense underlying acidity yield a powerful 

wine that will age over several years. Winebow. —R.V. 


91 

Aveleda 2010 Follies Fonte Nossa Senhora 

da Vandoma Touriga Nacional- 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Beiras). For full review see 

page 11. Best Buy. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

90 

Aveleda 2010 Follies Casa da Aguieira 

Touriga Nacional (Beiras). For full review 

see page 11. Best Buy. 


90 

Caves Aliança 2009 Vista Reserva Touriga 

Nacional (Beiras). Wood aged, this is still 

dominated by its toast character, but shows potential in 

its rich black fruits and powerful tannins. Complex and 

ageworthy, give it at least four years. Tri-Vin Imports. 

—R.V. 


84 

Caves Aliança 2009 Vista Tinta Roriz 

(Beiras). Lightweight, with smooth red fruit 

and acidity, this is soft and round. The berry fruit neatly 

merges with the gentle tannins. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 


DÃO REDS 

91 

Caves Aliança 2008 Quinta da Garrida 

Reserva (Dão). Full bodied and rich, this has 

a juicy core followed by firm, minerally tannins and intense 

acidity. Wood aging adds complexity to this im- 

pressive, ageworthy effort. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Selection. 

—R.V. 


90 

Sogrape 2009 Callabriga (Dão). A complex, 

full-bodied wine, structured with the 

Dão’s typical taut minerality. It has richness hidden 

behind the firm tannins and dense texture. This is still 

young and will develop over the next 3–4 years. Evaton, 

Inc. —R.V. 


88 

Caves Aliança 2009 Aliança Reserva 

(Dão). This is a typical mineral-driven Dão 

wine, with structure and complex, dry and firm fruits. 

Licorice and wood notes also add to the mix. This needs 

at least three years of aging. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 


82 

Vidigal 2010 Red (Dão). Lean and austere, 

this brings out the mineral character of the Dão 

region without expressing the richer fruit side. It has 

tannins, juicy acidity and a tight, severe finish. Suprex 

International. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $10 

DOURO REDS 

93 

Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta da 

Fronteira Grande Escolha (Douro). A vineyard 

selection is used to make this powerful, super ripe 

wine. With its opulent flavors, it is as densely packed 

with fruit as it is with tannins. Balanced and gorgeous, 

this is ready to drink now, yet it will age over several 



93 

Duorum 2009 Reserva Old Vines (Douro). 

This is powerfully impressive, with its firm 

structure giving great depth to the rich black-cherry and 

plum fruits. Dense and tannic, it needs to age for at least 

four years. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 


93 

Quinta do Portal 2009 Grande Reserva 

(Douro). Always a powerful wine, this has 

the added benefit of being produced from a fine vintage, 

yielding a hugely dense and concentrated bottling. 

Power comes from the ripe blackberry and black currant 

fruit and from the dark, firm tannins. Age this wine 

at least five years. M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. 

—R.V. 


93 

Quinta do Portal 2009 Reserva (Douro). 

Still very youthful, this concentrated wine has 

structure, deep black-fruit flavors and intense acidity. 

Its wood aging offers an extra spice note and a polished 

surface. Underneath, the wine is dense, needing aging. 

Give it 2–4 years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $28 

92 


Fronteira Reserva (Douro). Powerful and 

ripe, this is loaded with dark black fruit, spice from 

wood aging, licorice and bitter chocolate flavors. It’s impressively 

rich, concentrated and dark in both color and 

feel; age it for four years. Importo LLC. Cellar Selection. 

—R.V. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $45 

92 


Fronteira Selecção do Enólogo (Douro). 

Huge and rich, this offers ripe black fruits and a concentrated 

structure. It’s packed with a seemingly sweet 

blackberry flavor that serves as a counterpoint to the 

firm texture. With both density and a dark edge, this will 

age over several years. Importo LLC. Editors’ Choice. 

—R.V. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

92 

Wines & Winemakers 2009 Andreza 

Grande Reserva (Douro). New-wood dominates 

this wine, with a very toasty quality, a seemingly 

sweet vanilla flavor and a touch of pepper from the alcohol. 

The black fruits are still burried under the wood 

character, although the fruits’ weight suggests they will 

broaden out with time. Give this powerful effort at 

least four years. Amara Wines LLC. Cellar Selection. 

—R.V. 


91 

Duorum 2010 Colheita (Douro). Richly 

structured and ripe, this has black tannins laced 

with dark plum fruit. Its tannins promise aging while its 

fruit already offers a rounded taste. Keep for 3–4 years. 

Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

91 

Quinta do Portal 2009 Touriga Franca 

(Douro). An impressive single varietal wine, 

this shows notes of spice, black currant and wood, along 

with dark tannins and a firm, dry core. With its acidity 

and tannins, this will likely age over several years. M Imports, 

LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $45 

91 

Sogrape 2009 Callabriga (Douro). Very 

structured and firm, this has dense tannins 

overlaying the black currant fruit. Its dry, solid texture 

dominates, yielding an impressive wine that has fine 

juicy fruit now and will age well over four years. Evaton, 

Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 


91 

Wines & Winemakers 2010 Lua Nova 

em Vinhas Velhas (Douro). Using grapes 

sourced from old vines, this is dark and concentrated. 

It’s dominated at the start by firm, dry tannins, with its 

power coming from its dark, brooding fruit and dense 

structure. Age for at least four years. Amara Wines 

LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

90 

DFJ Vinhos 2009 Vega (Douro). Smooth 

and wood-aged, this has a polished texture. 

Fruit flavors of blueberry and red cherry combine with 

the rounded tannins and a spice note to give a rich feel. 

Full yet elegant, age this for the next two years. Dionysos 


abv: 13.5% Price: $9 

90 

Quinta do Portal 2009 Touriga Nacional 

(Douro). Generous and spicy, this is full of 

seemingly sweet black fruit, balanced by firm tannins 


and juicy acidity. It is concentrated and full, with great 

depth of flavor. Ready to drink. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $45 

90 

Quinta do Portal 2009 Frontaria (Douro). 

This is smooth and ripe, with its tannins rounded 

within the black fruit flavor. Having aged in French 

oak, it has a vanilla essence that details the ripe blackberry 

note. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

89 

Companhia das Quintas 2010 Fronteira 

(Douro). A blend of Touriga Nacional and 

Touriga Franca, this is a firmly structured wine. It has 

dense tannins that are balanced with black currant and 

damson fruits. Aromatic and stylish, it should be aged 

for at least three years. Importo LLC. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

89 

DFJ Vinhos 2009 Paxis (Douro). Big and 

fruity, with soft and ripe tannins, this has a 

strong juicy element, with blackberry juice and spice 

flavors that combine with the wood aging and lively 

acidity on the finish. It could be aged, but is ready to 

drink now. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $9 

89 

Quinta do Portal 2010 Muras da Vinha 

(Douro). A spice note meshes with the tannins 

and black currant acidity in this elegant wine. The fruit 

is bright and juicy; the tannins still firm and will likely 

always lend an edge of severity. Age for 2–3 years. M 

Imports, LLC. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

86 

Aveleda 2008 Charamba (Douro). Named 

after a Portuguese folk dance, this is a soft, 

fruity wine. It has wood flavors, attractive black currant 

fruit and acidity that keeps it feeling fresh. Drink now, 

as this is not for aging. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 


86 

Vidigal 2010 Red (Douro). With structured 

and ripe dark-berry fruits, this is a warm wine 

that has a good mineral edge. Fine tannins give a sense 

of shape to the rich fruit flavors. Drink now or age for 

2–3 years. Screwcap. Lion Importers and Distributors. 

—R.V. 


85 

Caves Aliança 2011 Foral (Douro). Spice 

and red plum flavors dominate this fruity, forward 

effort. It has some tannins, but they seem lost in 

the wine’s easy character. For drinking over the next two 

years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 


LISBOA REDS 

93 

Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta de 

Pancas Reserva (Lisboa). This is beautiful, 

with smooth, polished tannins and a spice note from the 

wood aging. It is layered with black plum, chocolate and 

licorice flavors, along with structure. The fruit is rich 

and likely to come forward in the next 3–4 years. Importo 

LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $30 


92 

DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Touriga 

Nacional (Lisboa). For full review see page 

11. Best Buy. 


91 


Pancas Selecção do Enólogo (Lisboa). 

This is both fruity and mineral driven, a combination 

that gives intense structure surrounded by ripe black 

fruit. Chocolate and spice notes come from the wood 

aging. All of the elements come together in a powerful, 

full-bodied effort that should age for three years. Importo 

LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 


91 

DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Alicante 

Bouschet (Lisboa). For full review see page 

11. Best Buy. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

89 


Pancas Reserva Touriga Nacional (Lisboa). 

Portugal’s national grape offers a richly grounded 

wine, with dark tannins, black plum fruit and tight acidity. 

The texture is dusty, and the wood aging just showing 

through on the finish. Importo LLC. —R.V. 


89 

DFJ Vinhos 2009 Casa do Lago Grande 

Reserva (Lisboa). Profiting from the exceptional 

2009 vintage, this is rich and full bodied, yet it 

retains elegance. Black fruits dominate the firm tannins, 

lending a juicy character to the ripe texture. The finish 

is suave and fruity. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. 

—R.V. 


87 

DFJ Vinhos 2009 Alta Corte (Lisboa). A 

blend of the unusual Caradoc varietal and Tinta 

Roriz, this is ripe, fruity and spicy. It has enough rich 

black fruit to give weight while allowing the acidity and 

balancing tannins through. It’s enjoyable and ready to 

drink. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 


86 

Caves Bonifacio 2009 Alicante Bouschet 

(Lisboa). Dark colored, this has fresh red-berry 

and damson fruits. With soft tannins, this is a bright, 

fruity wine for drinking now. HGC Imports. Best Buy. 

—R.V. 


86 

Caves Bonifacio 2009 Aragonez (Lisboa). 

Fruity, juicy and packed with red berry 

fruit, this is an attractive, easy-drinking wine. It is rich, 

with good dense flavors that are balanced by raspberrylike 

acidity on the finish. Grand Pere Wines. Best Buy. 

—R.V. 


86 


Selection (Lisboa). Ripe red fruits dominate 

this warm, round wine. The light touch of acidity makes 

the fruit seem forward and bright, yet the core remains 

rich and smooth. Its soft tannins make this ready to 

drink now. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $7 

85 

DFJ Vinhos 2010 Coreto (Lisboa). Despite 

its light touch, this is fruity and full, with 

its blackberry fruit dominating the warm spice note and 

acidity. Soft tannins keep the wine together. Drink now. 

Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $6 

84 

DFJ Vinhos 2010 Brigando (Lisboa). This 

is a lightweight, fruity and softly tannic wine. 

The red berry flavor is bright and breezy, and the acidity 

is a dominant feature. Screwcap. Lionstone International. 

—R.V. 


84 

Vidigal 2010 Reserva (Lisboa). Light and 

freshly fruity, this has a red berry flavor, with a 

soft spice note and round tannins. There’s an odd tomato 

flavor that creeps in at the end. Screwcap. Frederick 

Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $8 

SETUBAL REDS 

89 

José Maria da Fonseca 2008 Periquita 

Superyor (Setubal). Made from 100% 

Castelão, Periquita Superyro pays homage to the time 

when Castelão was called Periquita. Aged in new wood, 

this is powerful and intense, with forward yet juicy 

tannins. Palm Bay International. —R.V. 


87 


Reserva (Setubal). This is big and juicy, with 

extra weight imparted by the wood aging. Its flavors of 

spice and red fruit are laced with acidity. Full bodied 

and forward, this is quite drinkable. Palm Bay International. 

—R.V. 


86 


Original (Setubal). Dominated by the local 

Castelão grape, this easy-drinking, fruity wine has soft 

tannins, attractive acidity and blackberry fruit. Juicy and 

soft, this is a classic barbecue wine. Palm Bay International. 

—R.V. 


TEJO REDS 

89 

Falua 2010 Conde de Vimioso (Tejo). 

Complex and dense, this has a dry, firmly tannic 

structure, with rich black-fruit and dark chocolate 

flavors. Spice and wood notes surface on the finish. Aidil 

Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 


88 

Wines & Winemakers 2010 Companhia 

das Lezírias Samora (Tejo). This is a 

dark wine, with an intense, dry structure and seemingly 

sweet fruit. It has a dense herb flavor, with notes of 

black plum, spice and bitter chocolate. Keep for a year. 



87 

Wines & Winemakers 2008 Companhia 

das Lezírias (Tejo). Big and spicy, this has 

notes of ripe black fruit and raisin, with a tarry edge and

smooth tannins. It has an intense structure and a dry 

core, with a spice note and a touch of pepper from the 

alcohol. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. 


OTHER RED WINES 

88 

Caves Bonifacio 2009 Património (Torres 

Vedras). Ripe and smooth, this has an attractive 

balance of blackberry flavor and spicy tannins, 

with a juicy character that makes it seem richly fruity. 

It could age for 1–2 years, but it’s drinkable now. HGC 


abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

85 

Adega de Monção 2011 Tinto (Vinho 

Verde). This lightly sparkling red is earthy and 

tensely acidic. With its red currant fruit, mouth-filling 

acidity and tight tannins, this is meant to pair with oily 

foods—especially fish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. 


85 

Caves Aliança 2011 Terra Boa (Transmontanas). 

From the far northeast region of 

Tras-os-Montes, this is an attractively fruity wine. It has 

a core of tannins that are a fine complement to the blueberry 

and damson fruits. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 


84 

Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Tinto (Portuguese 

Table Wine). Light and stalky, this 

has black currant fruit and considerable acidity. With its 

soft tannins and fruity character, it is ready to drink now. 

FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. 


PORT 

92 

Quinta do Portal 2009 Vintage Port. Deep 

and dark, this has powerful herb and spice flavors 

alongside the concentrated tannins and notes of 

ripe black fruits and raisins. This has impressive density 

and is still youthful, demonstrating fine aging potential. 

M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 


91 

Cálem NV 10-Years Old White Port. Approaching 

tawny in color, this is a mature white 

Port. It has a wood-aged tang, with spice and toast flavors 

that have given the wine an old gold feel. The surface 

is sweet, yet there is an underlying dryness. Sogevinus 

Fine Wines USA. —R.V. 


90 

Barros NV 20-Years Old Tawny Port. This 

is rich, with an old wood feel and a sweet, stillfruity 

character. With its acid balance, this is fresh, 

round and perfumed. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. 

—R.V. 


89 

Quinta do Portal 2007 Late Bottled Vintage 

Port. Rich and fruity, this is rounded as 

well as concentrated. It’s on the sweet side, yet its acidity 

and blend of black and dried fruits are finely bal- 

anced. Like all LBVs, it can be consumed now, but it 

can also age over several years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. 


87 

Burmester 2007 Late Bottled Vintage 

Port. Showing just the right amount of age, this 

is a rich Port, with flavors of dried fruit and damson. Its 

tannins and firm character fit smoothly into the round 

texture. Ready to drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. 

—R.V. 


SPAIN 

WHITE WINES 

88 

Viña Costeira 2011 Blanco (Ribeiro). The 

aromas of orange and mineral are uncomplicated 

and friendly. It feels pure and offers good flow, with 

apple, lime, mineral, white pepper and anise flavors. 

Fruity, dry and composed on the finish, this is great 

wine for patio sipping or pairing with seafood. Luxe 

Vintages. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $15 

87 

Bodegas Pirineos 2010 Selección Mesache 

Blanco Macabeo-Gewürztraminer 

(Somontano). While it’s golden in color, the wine 

isn’t oaky or over the hill. Scents of buttercup, honeysuckle, 

baked apple and melon lead to a round, almost 

Burgundian-like mouthfeel. The flavors of melon, apple 

and peach are solid, and the finish is naturally creamy 

from the 50% Gewürztraminer in the blend—Macabeo 

comprises the other 50%. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

87 

Marqués de Cáceres 2011 White (Rioja). 

For full review see page 12. Best Buy. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

86 

El Circulo 2011 Blanco (Rioja). Green banana, 

apple and mineral aromas are nothing to 

get worked up over, but they are clean and inviting. This 

shows good acidity and lift on the palate, with pleasant 

flavors of citrus, nectarine and apple. It’s crisp and clean 

on the finish. Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

86 

El Coto 2011 White (Rioja). For full review 

see page 12. Best Buy. 


86 

Enrique Mendoza 2010 Moscatel de la 

Marina (Alicante). Hard and capped on the 

nose, this has mixed aromas of plastic, sulfur and white 

fruit. It feels creamy and tropical, with flavors of mango, 

banana and honey, with some bitterness on the back 

palate and finish. Winebow. —M.S. 


86 

Marqués de Caro 2011 Blanco (Valencia). 

Here’s a floral-smelling, light-style mix of 

Moscatel and Macabeo that will function best as a quaffing 

wine. It smells of acacia and orange blossom, showing 

modest weight and acidity, with citrus and tropical 

fruit flavors. The finish is short and light. Wein-Bauer, 

Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. 


85 

Maximo 2011 Viura (Vino de la Tierra de 

Castilla). Aromas of hay and sweet grass are 

offset by notes of apple and melon. It feels healthy and 

easy, with white peach, nectarine and apple flavors. It’s 

good and uncomplicated, with a touch of corn flavor on 

the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. 

—M.S. 


84 

Luna Beberide 2010 Godello (Bierzo). 

The waxy apple aroma seems cidery and a touch 

oxidized given how young the wine is. It feels flat and 

basic, with apricot and peach flavors, and a waxy bitterness 

to the palate. The finish tastes stalky, like hay or 

straw. Only 250 cases made. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $22 

83 

Agustín Cubero 2011 Unus Old Vine Macabeo 

(Calatayud). Oily on the nose, this 

has a distinct whiff of matchstick and popcorn. It feels 

dry—like almond skins—with oily flavors of walnuts and 

white fruits. The finish is marked with a mild bitterness 

as well. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

83 

Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Blanco (Rioja). 

Quiet on the bouquet, this offers aromas and 

flavors of a wine that’s in the early stages of decline. 

It feels mildly oxidized and tastes of hollow fruit and 

yeasty vanilla. The finish is mild, with a note of hay. 

Devo Enterprises Corporation. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

82 

Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 2010 Casta 

Diva Cosecha Dorada Dry Muscat 

(Alicante-Marina Alta). The mildly floral nose leads 

to a lean and acidic palate, with flavors of lemon and 

green apple. Classical Wines. —M.S. 


81 

Dominio de Punctum 2010 Lobetia Made 

with Organic Grapes Viognier (Vino de la 

Tierra de Castilla). This smells like applesauce and 

pear, feeling tight as a drum on the palate, with sharp 

nectarine and apricot flavors. It’s tart and crimped on 

the finish. Terroir Wine Cellars. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $13 

81 

Vermador 2010 White Wine Made with 

Organic Grapes (Alicante). The nose smells 

flat, with a scant scent of peach. It feels acidic and lacks 

body, with flavors of sour apple, dried papaya and bitter 

almond. A blend of 50% Macabeo and 50% Airen. 

Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. 


VINTAGE CAVA 

92 

Raventós I Blanc 2009 de Nit (Cava). This 

has a pretty light color, with dry raspberry and 

citrus scents. The palate is pure and elegant, with tangerine, 

grapefruit and nectarine flavors. This finishes 


longer than most, with poise and grace. Valkyrie Selections. 

Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 


90 

Sonim 2009 Brut Nature (Cava). Substantive, 

with complexities on the bouquet, this has 

a lemon-lime aroma that is dry, chiseled and friendly. It 

feels tangy, citrusy and crisp, with tangerine and lemon 

as the key flavors. This is fresh and focused from start to 

finish. The addition of 15% Chardonnay brings it up a 

notch. Aviva Vino. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $17 

89 

Mont Marçal 2009 Rosado Brut (Cava). 

This gets going with clean, light cherry and berry 

aromas that bring a citrus note to the fore. It feels 

crisp, dry and pure, with citrus, plum and dust flavors. 

An elegant rosé made from the Trepat grape, it finishes 

dry and spicy, with ample leftover fruit. Classical Wines. 

—M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $18 

89 

Sumarroca 2009 Brut Reserva (Cava). 

What a difference a year makes: 2008 yielded 

a fine wine, but the warmer 2009 vintage has produced 

a classic Cava with pretty aromas of apples and fresh 

green herbs. It feels chiseled and tight, with a mix of 

green apple, peach and nectarine flavors. Smooth and 

easy on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $22 

88 

Agustí Torelló Mata 2008 Brut Reserva 

(Cava). This leans a little green and soda-like 

on the nose, but it picks up clarity and speed on the palate, 

which carries a tangy, citric snap. It tastes of citrus 

and lees, and the finish is medium in length and healthy. 

Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $21 

87 

Agustí Torelló Mata 2009 Aliguer Brut 

Vintage (Cava). This is a little wayward and 

funky on the nose, with a lightly pickled aroma. It’s a 

forward Cava with a yeasty, creamy feel. Its acidity and 

proper bubbles set up flavors of pastry, powdered sugar 

and sweet apple. The finish is quick, ending with a 

white-pepper flavor. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $16 

87 

Mont Marçal 2008 Brut Reserva (Cava). 

The nectarine and mild vanilla aromas are subdued 

yet solid. On the palate, it’s all about stone fruit 

flavors, such as peach and nectarine, with apple and cider 

notes on the balanced and healthy finish. Classical 

Wines. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $15 

86 

Vilarnau 2009 Brut Nature (Cava). Apple, 

mineral and light yeast notes define the bouquet. 

It feels snappy and zesty, with a mix of pickled citrus, 

fresh sauerkraut and lemon flavors. This is cleansing 

and tangy on the tail end, with a briny finish. San 

Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $18 

85 

Gramona 2008 Gran Cuvee Brut (Cava). 

This smells yeasty and flat, with a heavy, bready 

quality. The palate feels heady and plump, with a mealy 

citrus flavor and a lot of foam on the palate. It finishes a 


little green, grassy and herbal, with a lettuce-like note. 

Eric Solomon Selections. —M.S. 


NONVINTAGE CAVA 

88 

Freixenet NV Cordon Rosado (Cava). For 

full review see page 11. Best Buy. 


88 

Freixenet NV Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut 

(Cava). For full review see page 9. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $18 

88 

La Xarmada NV Heretat de Sangenis Brut 

Nature (Cava). Toasty and a touch oily on 

the nose, this has green fruit aromas of lime and kiwi. 

It shows crisp tartness on the palate, with a touch of 

grapefruit and core flavors of nectarine and orange. It’s 

dry on the quick finish, with a touch of almond skin. 

ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $22 

88 

Mas Fi NV Brut (Cava). For full review see 


abv: 11.5% Price: $11 

88 

Masia Puigmoltó NV Absidis Brut Rosé 

(Cava). Dry, toasty and composed up front, 

this has a nice palate set straight by proper acidity and 

base structure. Citrus and brown sugar flavors feature a 

note of orange rind, and it stays fresh and citrusy on the 

finish. Made from Trepat. ENYE Distribution Group, 

LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $16 

88 

Segura Viudas NV Brut Reserva (Cava). 



87 

Bodegas Solo Privee NV Cava. Lemon, 

lime, apple and nectarine aromas are regular 

and clean. It feels good, citrusy and just round enough, 

with passion fruit, grapefruit and orange flavors. Tasty 

and fresh, this works well as a refresher. Classic Wines, 

Inc. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $13 

87 

Freixenet NV Cordon Negro Brut 150 

años (Cava). Freixenet’s signature Cava 

is consistent and pure as usual, with aromas of white 

fruit and white pepper and an overall freshness on the 

nose. It feels crisp and focused, with a foamy palate that 

brings apple, lime, peach and spice flavors. The finish is 

smooth. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. 


86 

Freixenet NV Elyssia Brut Pinot Noir 

(Cava). Creamsicle aromas have a dry tea note, 

and overall this tastes like Pinot Noir. It feels foamy and 

soft, with flavors of tea leaf, orange and cherry. The finish 

is rooty tasting and mild. Freixenet USA. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $18 

86 

Freixenet NV Spumante (Cava). Light, 

powdery, sweet and citrusy on the nose, this 

becomes fairly creamy on the palate. It’s aggressively 

sweet tasting but not cloying, with orange and mango 

fruit and a finish stocked with enlivening acidity. Freixenet 

USA. Best Buy. —M.S. 


86 

Masia Puigmoltó NV Absidis Brut (Cava). 

This is flowery and open on the nose, but then 

it flattens out in the mouth, with mild cut and an easy 

bead. It tastes of soft apple and peach, while the finish 

fruity and satisfying. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. 

—M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $16 

86 

Segura Viudas NV Aria Estate Brut 

(Cava). Apple and stone fruit aromas come 

with a mineral component and a stalky, hay note. It feels 

good and full, showing classic Cava flavors of stalky apple 

and nectarine. The finish is smooth and easygoing. 

Freixenet USA. —M.S. 


86 

Unión Vinícola del Este NV Vega Medien 

Brut Macabeo-Chardonnay (Cava). Aromas 

and peach, apple and a spot of hay make for a nice, 

clean and familiar bouquet. It feels fresh and easy, with 

tangerine, nectarine and spiced apple flavors. Crisp, 

solid and quick on the finish, this is clean overall. American 

Northwest Distributors Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $10 

86 

Vilarnau NV Brut (Cava). The nose is defined 

by white fruit aromas, while the palate is a 

bit flat in feel but lively enough. It tastes of papaya and 

peach, with a touch of green herb. San Francisco Wine 

Exchange. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $16 

85 

Freixenet NV Carta Nevada Brut (Cava). 

Dry, crisp and nice, this has white fruit aromas 

that are familiar and friendly. It comes across medium 

bodied, dusty and yeasty, with an apple accent and a 

vanilla flavor. The finish is lightly toasted and slightly 

briny. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. 


85 

Maria Casanovas NV Glaç Brut Nature 

(Cava). Crisp white-fruit aromas come with a 

touch of green grass. It feels regular, with briny lime 

and tart apple flavors. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $30 

85 

Segura Viudas NV Brut Rosé (Cava). 

Clean, dry and light on the nose, this has a 

smoky, leafy accent. While it’s not superlively on the 

palate, it offers nice grapefruit, cherry and nectarine flavors, 

with a dry, smoky and tasty finish. Freixenet USA. 

Best Buy. —M.S. 


85 

Vilarnau NV Brut Rosé (Cava). Orange and 

nectarine aromas carry the nose to a wide, fairly 

acidic palate that still manages to fall a little flat in terms 

of character. Mid-tier notes of orange and stone fruit 

set up a finish with similar flavors. San Francisco Wine 

Exchange. —M.S. 

abv: 12% Price: $18

83 

Berberana NV Gran Tradición Brut 

(Cava). This smells like barbecue and Eastern 

European oak. It feels flat and static, with woody resin 

and savory flavors to go with notes of nectarine and 

white grape. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $12 

82 

Loxarel NV 999 Brut Nature Rosé (Cava). 

An idiosyncratic wine, offering a yeasty orange 

marmalade aroma followed by a razor-sharp palate with 

sour citrus and apricot flavors. It’s grating and citric 

on the finish, with a yeasty offset. Classic Wines, Inc. 

—M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $15 

82 

Mas Fi NV Brut Rosé (Cava). Heavy and 

dark in color, this is stalky on the nose, with a 

compost component that doesn’t scream “fresh and 

ready.” It feels fairly snappy, but it tastes tart and slightly 

vegetal before finishing with rhubarb flavors. Winesellers 

Ltd. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $12 

80 

Unión Vinícola del Este NV Vega Medien 

Brut Rosé (Cava). Salmon in color, this is 

pulpy and perfumed on the nose, with an artificial leaning. 

Overly foamy on the palate, this has a bitter, herbal 

flavor. American Northwest Distributors Inc. —M.S. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $10 

ROSADOS 

83 

Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Garnacha Rosado 

(Rioja). The candied red-fruit aroma is 

soft yet snappy. It tastes briny and citrusy before ending 

with a persistent peppery bitterness and lively acidity. 

CIV/USA. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $9 

81 

Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Conde de 

Valdemar Tempranillo-Garnacha Rosado 

(Rioja). Twizzler and other red candy aromas lead to a 

creamy feeling yet acidic palate that tastes like raspberry 

extract. Sharp acidity prevents what would otherwise 

be a cloying wine. CIV/USA. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

80 

Bodegas del Mundo 2011 Valdemoreda 

Garnacha Rosado (Rioja). Strawberry and 

raspberry aromas set up a reedy, flush palate with stemmy, 

candied strawberry flavors. Turns green and bitter 

on the finish. CIV/USA. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $8 

80 

Peñascal 2011 Tempranillo Rosado (Vino 

de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Loud citrus 

and berry aromas precede an overloaded palate that 

carries stalky plum flavors. Pickled tasting on the finish. 

HAB North America. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

BIERZO 

91 

Demencia de Autor 2008 Demencia 

Mencía (Bierzo). Dark, compact and black, 

with graphite and growling blackberry aromas. Feels 

tight and drawing but serious and structured, with black 

fruit, chocolate, toast and spice flavors. Blackened as 

well on the finish, with mint and toast. Hold until 2015. 

Enotrends LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S. 


89 

Luna Beberide 2009 Finca la Cuesta 

Mencía (Bierzo). Floral plum and blueberry 

aromas are exotic and interesting as opposed to heavy 

and oaky. Shows rubbery tannins and a wide mouthfeel 

in front of roasted berry and plum flavors. Savory on the 

back end, with an oak character that’s not too demanding. 

Grapes of Spain. —M.S. 


88 

Luna Beberide 2009 Art Mencía (Bierzo). 

Meaty, dense, savory and extremely oaky and 

dark on the nose. Feels tannic and tough, with intensity 

to spare and tons of black-fruit flavor that turns more 

toasted, roasted and barbecued as the wine unfolds. 

Finishes with burnt meat and mint flavors along with 

grinding tannins. Needs another 3 or 4 years, and even 

then it may not be a soft, friendly Mencía. Grapes of 

Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. 


86 

Peique 2010 Tinto Mencía (Bierzo). Plum 

and raspberry aromas turn herbal with airing. 

Feels good and plump, with restrained tannins. Tastes 

like roasted red berries, dry oak and leather mixed with 

leafy herbs. Good but loses some clarity as it breathes. 

Steve Miles Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. 


86 

V&N Cellars 2009 Mencía (Bierzo). A Barcelona-based 

brand with this Bierzo label that’s 

good, with generic red-fruit aromas and cheesy smelling 

oak. Feels light, snappy and feminine, with spicy, resiny 

flavors along with tart raspberry and tomato. Ends 

abruptly. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —M.S. 


CAMPO DE BORJA 

87 

Coto de Hayas 2010 Roble Tempranillo- 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Campo de Borja). 

Briary red-fruit aromas are forward and attractive. Feels 

juicy, with good acidic cut and ample body. Flavors of 

dark plum and berry come with hints of crushed herbs 

and dry spices. Finishes bold, with peppery spice and a 

pinch of heat. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. 

—M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

86 

Bodegas Aragonesas 2008 Mósen Cleto 

Crianza (Campo de Borja). Brambly redfruit 

aromas mix with notes of sweet milk chocolate and 

dust. It feels crisp, tight and fresh, with raspberry and 

lightly herbal plum flavors. This finishes taut and fruity. 

A blend of 75% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo. Scoperta 

Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

86 

El Pensador 2010 Tempranillo (Campo 

de Borja). Snappy cherry and berry aromas 

have the slightest accent of mint and grass. It feels fresh, 

forward and tight, with plum and spicy berry flavors. 

The finish remains fruity and firm. Winery Exchange. 

—M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

85 

Bodegas Aragonesas 2008 Castillo de 

Fuendejalon Crianza (Campo de Borja). 

This opens with lightly perfumed red-fruit aromas of 

raspberry and plum, with a bright palate that shows 

mostly red plum, raspberry and cherry flavors. This is a 

basic, clean wine comprised of 75% Garnacha and 25% 

Tempranillo. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. 

—M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

84 

Coto de Hayas 2008 Crianza (Campo de 

Borja). This is a dark specimen, with blackfruit 

and raisiny aromas that turn herbal with time. It 

has rubbery tannins and flavors of plum and herb. Good 

as a whole but sort of squeeky and hard in feel. A blend 

of 60% Garnacha and 40% Tempranillo. Scoperta Importing 

Co. Inc. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

EMPORDÀ 

89 

Oliver Conti 2009 Turó Negre (Empordà). 

Leather and smoky berry aromas lead to a lively, 

racy palate that’s tight, crisp and traditional in feel. 

The plum, berry and earth flavors are old school— 

more elegant and restrained than pushy and forward. 

Long and chiseled on the finish, this is a blend of five 

grapes including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and 

Grenache. Winebow. —M.S. 


88 

Oliver Conti 2009 Ara (Empordà). Cherry 

cough drop, raspberry and minerally aromas 

settle on the nose. This four-grape blend shows a lively 

palate that’s dry and crisp in feel, with raspberry, plum 

and red pepper flavors that lead to a tight finish that peters 

out quickly. Winebow. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

84 

Oliver Conti 2008 Carlota (Empordà). 

Imagine all of the scents you associate with a 

Margherita pizza and that’s what this wine smells like. 

The nose is leafy and full of oregano, basil and leather 

notes, while the flavor profile is pure tomato sauce, herb 

and spice. A blend of 75% Cabernet Franc and 25% 

Cabernet Sauvignon. Winebow. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $30 

JUMILLA 

91 

Bodegas Carchelo 2009 Sierva (Jumilla). 

Big and lush, this has graphite, coconut, minty 

oak and huge berry fruit aromas. It’s plush in the mouth 

but not wayward or overly big, with roasted plum, 

molasses, leather and raspberry flavors and a forward 

barrel note. Savory and long on the finish, this is a blend 

of 40% Monastrell, 30% Tempranillo and 15% each 

Syrah and Cabernet. Classical Wines. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $28 

89 

Bodegas Carchelo 2010 C (Jumilla). Focused 

and fresh, this has aromas of berry and 

integrated citrus. It feels rubbery and lush, with acidic 


cut and roasted flavors of plum, blackberry and leather. 

It finishes mildly roasted and earthy, with a leathery lasting 

impression. Classical Wines. —M.S. 


87 

Bodegas Luzón 2008 Luzón Crianza (Jumilla). 

Hard and capped on the nose, this has 

hints of cement, cheesy oak, minty fruit and tobacco. 

Savory and roasted on the palate, with a blend of Marsala 

and mushroom as well as saline, baked berry and 

ham notes. The finish is savory in a natural, nongreen 

way. Aviva Vino. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $15 

87 

Las Hermanas 2010 Joven Monastrell- 

Syrah (Jumilla). This has an earthy nose, but 

airing helps this Monastrell-Syrah blend move beyond 

the leathery, warm notes. It feels full yet balanced, with 

roasted, savory flavors of stewed plum and grilled meat. 

It’s warm, with a dose of molasses on the finish. Well- 

Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. 


83 

Bodegas Luzón 2010 Luzón Monastrell- 

Syrah (Jumilla). This is leathery and stemmy 

on the nose, with horsey plum and raspberry aromas. 

It feels narrow, with rubbery, herbal and roasted berry 

flavors. This is a rustic, roasted wine no matter how you 

slice it. Aviva Vino. —M.S. 


MONTSANT 

88 

Aloja 2010 Montsant. Jammy berry, light 

mint and herb notes carry a jumpy nose to a palate 

that has oak-infused plum, raspberry and light herb 

flavors. It finishes mostly calm and collected, but also a 

touch racy, with a pastry flavor. Novo Imports. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $14 

88 

Mas Sorrer 2010 Montsant. Roasted plum, 

baked berry and jammy aromas can’t be missed, 

but it’s structured and not at all soft in the mouth, with 

wild berry, cherry and boysenberry flavors. It really 

pours on the fruit, ending fresh with no nonsense. Domaine 

Select Wine Estates. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $15 

87 

Celler Dosterras 2009 Vespres (Montsant). 

This is dense and saturated, with crushed 

blackberry and plum aromas that turn more jammy and 

granular as the wine breathes. It’s extracted and heavy 

on the palate, with candied black plum and berry flavors 

that lose steam on the finish. This could be too heavy 

for fans of leaner-bodied wines. Classical Wines. —M.S. 


87 

Cellers Unió 2009 Perlat (Montsant). Plum 

and berry aromas get a strong assist from notes 

of mint and licorice on the nose. Lively and packed on 

the palate, it’s acidic and lean, even more so as it unwinds 

and breathes. Flavors of baked red plum and 

mocha are followed by a balsamic-tasting finish. Monsieur 

Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. 



83 

Bula 2009 Montsant. This is brambly, stalky 

and baked on the nose, and the palate is wide, 

tannic and scratchy. The flavor profile is all roasted 

plum, bacon and herb accents, finishing stalky and savory. 

Aviva Vino. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $29 

NAVARRA 

89 

Ochoa 2004 Single Vineyard Reserva 

Tempranillo (Navarra). Hard, crusty leather 

is the opening aroma, then a touch of tar gives way to 

notes of tobacco, latent oak and perfumed, mature fruit. 

It feels full, grabby and on the cusp of being syrupy, 

with roasted berry and spice flavors. It shows an herbal, 

hot side on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. 


87 

Bodegas Corellanas 2006 Viña Rubican 

Crianza Tempranillo (Navarra). Aromas 

of root beer, autumn leaves, leather and raisins indicate 

ripeness more than heavyness. It shows lots of life 

and kick on the palate, where the flavors run toasty and 

rooty, with a hint of brown sugar. Peppy acidity keeps it 

lively and traditional through the finish. Deutsch Family 

Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 


86 

Ochoa 2008 Crianza Tempranillo (Navarra). 

This smells nice and rooty, and also a bit 

like strawberry jam. It feels steely, zesty, juicy and almost 

too acidic, with blazing red plum and pie cherry 

flavors that are offset by integrated, spicy oak. It’s dry 

and tangy on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $24 

86 

Vega Sindoa 2010 Tempranillo (Navarra). 

Dark plum and berry aromas come with a touch 

of rubber. It feels bright, healthy and juicy, with good 

body and earthy berry and dark plum flavors. While it’s 

not complicated, it’s accurate and flavorful. Fine Estates 

From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. 


85 

Castillo de Monjardin 2010 Tintico Tempranillo 

(Navarra). Cherry is the prime fruit 

aroma, and overall the nose is rubbery and edgy. Feels 

squeeky and tannic, with plum and red berry flavors 

leading to a fresh but raw feeling and a peppery-tasting 

finish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. 


PRIORAT 

93 

Cims de Porrera 2005 Clássic Carignan 

(Priorat). Modern and bulky, this has a lot of 

great things going on. It opens with aromas of mineral, 

graphite, sage and bold berry, with chewy, roasted 

black-fruit flavors. It’s long, compact, chocolaty and 

spicy on the finish. Still not mature but it’s drinkable— 

best from 2014 and on. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Editors’ 


abv: 14.5% Price: $89 

92 

Clos Gebrat 2010 Priorat. Fresh, floral and 

not overbearing on the nose, this has red berry 

and cassis aromas, with no interference from oak 

or too much extraction. It feels pure and elegant, with 

wild berry and cherry flavors that end on a ripe, slightly 

sweet-tasting finish. Good for near-term drinking. The 

Artisan Collection. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 


91 

La Conreria d’Scala Dei 2007 Iugiter (Priorat). 

Black fruit, heavy oak, tobacco and mineral 

aromas are welcoming on this ripped Priorat.It’s full 

bodied, holding onto its schisty character via berry fruit 

and mineral flavors. Additional oak, vanilla and mint 

flavors rise up on the finish, but there’s plenty of plum 

and cherry notes below the surface. 500 cases made. 

Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 


91 

Mas Igneus 2009 Barranc dels Closos 

(Priorat). This is deep and fruity up front, with 

blackberry and cola aromas that come with creamy oak 

and offsetting minerality. Full and jammy on the palate, 

with flavors of blackberry, fine herbs and lightly applied 

molasses. Round and concentrated on the finish. Drink 

now through 2016. Opici Wines. —M.S. 


90 

Marco Abella 2007 Mas Mallola (Priorat). 

The rose petal and kirsch aromas are easy to 

like, with notes of tobacco and smoky earth in the mix. 

It feels good, easygoing and mature, with raspberry, 

cherry and spice flavors. Cool, collected and mature as a 

whole, this is ready now. Vinea Imports. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $35 

89 

Nita 2010 Priorat. A touch scratchy on the 

bouquet, with a red berry aroma and a wild herb 

note. It feels fresh and decidedly “red” in style, with 

red plum and red currant flavors. More easygoing than 

brooding, this finishes light. Drink now through 2015. 

Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

87 

Bodegas La Cartuja 2009 Priorat. An oaky 

style of Priorat, this smells of hickory and campfire, 

with bacon, plum and cherry notes. Solid but narrow 

in the mouth, with berry and cherry flavors mixed 

with hard spice and chocolate notes. It has just enough 

acidity to stay fresh, turning slightly fiery on the finish. 

Ole Imports. —M.S. 


87 

Mas La Mola 2007 Priorat. This smells rubbery, 

like a tire, before the berry and plum aromas 

settle in—although it remains a bit like pastic in 

scent. It feels tight and balanced, with acidity pushing 

flavors of plum, strawberry and mineral. This is crisp, 

juicy and more acidic than weighty on the finish. Parador 

Selections, LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

85 

Ferré I Catasús 2008 Terra de Fic 1 (Priorat). 

Baked and heavy, this has prune, raisin and 

jammy berry aromas. The weightiness carries onto the 

palate, which is chewy and smooth. Flavors of blackberry, 

spice and jammy syrup lead to a finish with a chocolaty 

tone. Tasted twice, with consistent results. M Imports, 

LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $45

RIBERA DEL DUERO 

94 

Garcia Figuero 2006 Vendimia Seleccionada 

(Ribera del Duero). This is incredibly 

inviting on the bouquet due to aromas of leather, raisin, 

tea and mocha. It feels lifted, benefiting from the superb 

structure and tannins, while the flavors of leathery 

berry, coffee, toast and chocolate are outstanding. This 

is pure, deep, elegant and impeccably balanced Tempranillo. 

Drink now–2018. Quintessential Wines. Editors’ 


abv: 14.5% Price: $69 

93 

Alidis 2007 Expresión (Ribera del Duero). 

Rooty and earthy smelling, this has aromas of 

leather, cassis, tobacco, dried cheese and cola. It feels 

rich and nicely textured, with firm but friendly tannins 

that set up tobacco, coffee, mocha and roasted berry 

flavors. It’s chocolaty in an uncanny way on the finish. 

Drink now through 2018. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. Editors’ 



91 

Montecastro 2007 y Llanahermosa 

(Ribera del Duero). This is dark and tarry at 

first, with aromas of freshly laid asphalt, pepper, fine 

herbs, burnt toast and roasted berry. This feels racy, 

healthy and balanced, with a creamy quality to the palate. 

It tastes natural and correct, with plum, berry, vanilla 

and spice flavors. On the finish, it’s smooth with 

a strong oak-based vanilla flavor. Drink now through 

2012. Classic Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. 


90 

Telmo Rodríguez 2006 M2 de Matallana 

(Ribera del Duero). After a leafy, somewhat 

burnt opening that seems muddled, things fall into 

place. The palate has a chewy, tannic, staunch feel that 

frames earthy berry, mocha, brown sugar and stewed 

plum flavors. It gets better and better as it unfolds, 

with prune and kirsch notes on the finish. Vintus LLC. 

—M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $47 

89 

Peñalba Herraiz 2009 Aptus (Ribera del 

Duero). Dark in color, this has an inviting mix 

of herb, spice, black plum and roasted berry aromas. It 

shows good balance and saturation across the palate, 

with staunch tannins and a creamy feel. Flavors of black 

fruits, tobacco and vanilla are generous, while the finish 

is not at all angular, choppy or challenging. Drink 

now–2014. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $16 

87 

Matarromera 2001 Gran Reserva (Ribera 

del Duero). Tobacco, brown sugar, dried fruit 

and vanilla aromas work the bouquet, which is very 

nice. In the mouth, however, it’s acidic, almost to the 

point of being citrusy. Flavors of earthy sour plum and 

raspberry are propped up by lasting acids, while the 

palate teeters on lemony and shear. Drink now. Matarromera 

USA, Inc. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $110 

87 

Prado Rey 2009 Adaro de Prado Rey Crianza 

(Ribera del Duero). This smells savory 

and roasted, like hickory, before turning earthy and 

stalky as it airs out. But overall it’s firm on the palate, 

with roasted, oak-influenced flavors of savory berry and 

saline. Full on the finish, with healthy but not overly aggressive 

tannic bite. M Imports, LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

87 

Rios de Tinta 2010 Ribera del Duero. This 

smells bullish and chunky, with a lively, aciddriven 

palate that boasts cherry, dark plum and cocoa 

flavors. It feels drawing and full of vitality, so serve this 

with food or allow it to breathe. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. 


86 

Emilio Moro 2010 Finca Resalso (Ribera 

del Duero). Aromas of minty oak, pastry and 

jammy raspberry set up a palate that’s racy, juicy and 

somewhat raw feeling, with plum and raspberry flavors. 

It’s woody on the finish, with a spice flavor. Multiple 

U.S. importers. —M.S. 


86 

Finca El Encinal 2009 Single Vineyard 

Roble (Ribera del Duero). Standard berry 

aromas show touches of raisin and earth, but not too 

much of either. It feels fresh, crisp and alert, with cherry 

tomato, berry fruit, tobacco and vanilla flavors. This 

feels healthy but not real deep or complex on the finish. 

Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

85 

Martín Berdugo 2010 Joven (Ribera del 

Duero). At first the nose is high toned and 

jumpy, but with time it falls into a good place with a medicinal 

berry note at the fore. Solid, tannic and nervy, it 

has plum and noticeable young-oak flavors. This turns 

herbal tasting and choppy on the finish. Puerto Viejo 



84 

Convento Oreja 2010 Roble (Ribera del 

Duero). Jumpy and nervy smelling, with tottering 

aromas of jammy berry and strawberry. It feels dilute 

at first, but more structure and body appear as the 

wine unfolds. The flavor of jammy raspberry is somewhat 

herbal, and the finish is light. Kysela Père et Fils. 

—M.S. 


84 

Matiz 2010 Roble (Ribera del Duero). This 

smells a bit like asphalt and peanuts. It feels angular, 

with plum, berry and pepper flavors. The finish is 

spicy, with drying tannins and a lasting leafy flavor. Steve 

Miles Selections. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

83 

Viña Vilano 2010 Roble (Ribera del Duero). 

The nose smells minty and capped with rubbery, 

blackened aromas. It feels tangy and tannic, with 

medicinal flavors of berry and resiny oak. It’s powerful 

but rough. European Wine Imports. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

RIOJA 

89 

Marqués de Elciego 2007 Edición Limitada 

Tempranillo (Rioja). This is black and tarry 

on first take, but complex aromas of pine, baked plum 

and wood smoke emerge. It has a nice full body and a 

few levels of texture, while the wine’s dark plum and 

berry flavors are generously spiced. This is composed, 

full and grabby on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 

Quintessential Wines. —M.S. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $69 

87 

Telmo Rodríguez 2010 LZ (Rioja). Blackfruit 

aromas are forceful, toasty and gritty. It 

feels solid, fruity and full bodied, with black fruit flavors 

that come across ripe and generous. It’s oaky but not 

overly so. Vintus LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

86 

Bodegas Riojanas 2008 Puerta Vieja 

Crianza (Rioja). Plum and berry aromas are 

a touch rubbery at first, but they air out well. It feels 

medium bodied and clean, with traditional Rioja flavors 

of dry oak, dill, tobacco, plum and cherry. The finish is 

mild and fresh. Vintage Wines Inc. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

85 

Bodegas Valdemar 2008 Conde de Valdemar 

Crianza (Rioja). This is fruity but simple 

on the nose, with plum and cherry aromas. It feels jammy 

and a touch muddled, with boysenberry, plum and 

blackberry flavors but not much oak character. It’s grippy 

on the finish. CIV/USA. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

85 

Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Rioja. The nose is 

big and rubbery, with aromas of bacon, tar and 

black plum. It feels young and choppy, with a lightly 

herbal berry flavor that turn more roasted in character 

as the wine opens. This gets the job done despite showing 

a roasted flavor throughout. Devo Enterprises Corporation. 



84 


(Rioja). For full review see page 13. Best 

Buy. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $6 

84 

Viña Palaciega 2007 Crianza (Rioja). Briary 

berry and milk chocolate aromas lead to 

a tart, alert palate full of red berry, sour plum, vanilla 

and spice flavors. Juicy acidity creates a long, racy finish 

that brings lasting raspberry character. Tri-Vin Imports. 

—M.S. 


83 


(Rioja). This smells granular and jammy, 

yet it feels snappy and dry, with raspberry, red plum, 

tomato and briny flavors. The finish is fresh and red in 

style. CIV/USA. —M.S. 


TORO 

92 

Quinola 2008 Toro. This is a serious Toro 

wine with smooth, dark, leathery aromas along 

with hints of wintergreen, licorice and berry pastry. It 

feels rich and layered, with complex flavors of licorice 

gum drop, nutmeg, chocolate and blackberry. Almost 


decadent but not over the top or too tannic. Drink now– 

2016. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. 


89 

François Lurton 2008 Campo Alegre 

(Toro). Toasty oak and hickory aromas are the 

primary greeting, with licorice, pastry and blackberry 

notes underneath. It feels saturated and chewy, with 

full-scale berry, prune, chocolate and mossy flavors. It’s 

dense on the finish, with smooth tannins and heft. Winesellers 

Ltd. —M.S. 


86 

Bodegas Torreduero 2008 Peñamonte 3 

Meses de Barrica (Toro). After a somewhat 

gritty start, the bouquet settles on aromas of perfumed 

red fruit and lemony oak. It feels full, with nice acidic 

cut, offering flavors of leather, earth and savory baked 

fruit. Fairly long and mildly herbal on the finish. Vintage 

Wines Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $11 

85 

Bodegas Fariña 2010 Dama de Toro Tempranillo 

(Toro). This smells a bit stalky, leathery 

and warm at first, but airing brings it along. While 

it’s never all that vivid on the nose, it does smell of 

baked berry and plum. It feels wide and neither tannic 

nor tough, with lightly herbal, rustic flavors of plum and 

berry. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $11 

85 

Bodegas Fariña 2010 Vino Pr1mero 

(Toro). Call this Toro Nuevo in the same vein 

as Beaujolais Nouveau—the grape juice becomes finished 

wine in just six weeks. Look for a jammy nose with 

licorice and blackberry aromas and a simple palate that 

pushes plum and berry flavors, with little structure or 

stuffing. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

UTIEL-REQUENA 

86 

Bodegas Iranzo 2010 Vertus Wine Made 

with Organically Grown Grapes Cabernet 

Sauvignon-Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). More 

flush and generous than the Vertus 100% Tempranillo, 

this blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Cabernet 

is bold but not heavy, with a medium body and clean, 

direct flavors of red berry and plum. It shows dashes of 

pepper and spice on the medium-long finish. Natural 

Merchants LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

85 

Bodegas Iranzo 2010 Vertus Wine Made 

with Organically Grown Grapes Tempranillo 

(Utiel-Requena). On the nose, raspberry and 

plum aromas come with a slight brambly note. The palate 

is juicy and fresh, with flavors of plum, cherry and a 

touch of spice. This finishes steady, with focused flavors. 

Natural Merchants LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

85 

Vicente Gandia 2008 Hoya de Cadenas 

Reserva Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). 

Earthy, roasted scents sit atop mild cherry and raspberry 

aromas that carry a slight green element. It feels shrill 

but juicy, with red plum and raspberry flavors. It’s mild, 


lightly herbal and snappy on the finish. Vicente Gandia 

PLA. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $15 

85 

Viña Degana 2008 Crianza Tempranillo 

Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). This is solid 

stuff for the price, with berry and pencil eraser aromas. 

It feels more soft than hard, with a jammy mouthfeel 

and grabby tannins in front of berry and plum flavors 

that turn medicinal. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. 

—M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $5 

84 

Vicente Gandia 2010 Marqués de Chivé 

Crianza Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). This 

has thin fruit aromas, with scents of herb and candied 

milk chocolate. It’s a solid wine for $8, with zesty acidity 

and standard raspberry and plum flavors. The lightweight 

finish turns lightly herbal. Vicente Gandia PLA. 


abv: 12.5% Price: $8 


91 

Torres 2008 Mas La Plana Black Label 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Penedès). For full 

review see page 8. 


88 

Anima Negra 2009 ÀN/2 (Vi de la Terra 

Mallorca). This is a unique wine from Mallorca 

with light cherry and raspberry aromas. Clampy, 

dry and tannic on the palate, it’s full of savory, roasted 

barbecue flavors along with tomato and red fruit notes. 

Very Mallorcan in that it’s salty and savory from start to 

finish. Winebow. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $23 

88 

Anima Negra 2007 Àn (Vi de la Terra Mallorca). 

Rusty in color, this is loaded with dill, 

tobacco, lemon peel and spice aromas. It feels choppy 

and jagged on its own, but will do better with food. 

Flavors of rooty, roasted berries are savory and baked, 

while the finish is dry and pinched. Drink now–2014. 

Winebow. —M.S. 


88 

Torres 2008 Gran Coronas Reserva Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Penedès). Notes of 

baked-berry, herb and savory spice come together well 

on the bouquet. It feels chunky and round but lively, 

with plum and cassis flavors that carry an herbal, tomatoey 

shading. This is fresh and herbal enough so that 

you know it’s Old World. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. 


85 

Evohé 2010 Viñas Viejas Tempranillo 

(Vino de la Tierra Ribera del Gállego- 

Cinco Villas). The medicinal plum aroma comes with 

a note of celery as well as anise and/or licorice. It feels 

tight, with rough tannins, then tastes like fresh red berries 

and plum. This is a bit edgy and choppy feeling, but 

solid for the price. Vinum International. —M.S. 


85 

Pardevalles 2008 Gamonal Prieto Picudo 

(Tierra de León). This is clean on the nose, 

with blackberry and plum aromas. It feels full and solid, 

bearing flavors of black cherry and dark plum, with 

a meaty undertone. Mint, spice and black fruit notes 

carry the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. 


85 

Vicente Gandia 2010 Organic Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Spain). The tea and raspberry 

aromas are easygoing, and that best describes this organic 

Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s powerful enough on the 

palate, with a good berry flavor that tilts towards raspberry. 

The finish is herbal and peppery. Vicente Gandia 

PLA. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $8 

84 

Terrenal 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yecla). 

This opens with standard cherry and berry 

aromas before transitioning to a juicy palate with red 

berry, plum, herb and grass notes. It finishes a little hot 

and aggressive, but for $4 who’s complaining? L. Watson, 

Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $4 

84 

Terrenal 2010 Estate Bottled Tempranillo 

(Yecla). Nice on the nose, this has a leafy note 

and a mellow red-berry aroma. Bouncy and rubbery 

feeling, it has easygoing flavors of raspberry and plum. 

It’s candied and rubbery tasting on the finish, but good 

overall. L. Watson, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $4 

83 

Bodegas del Paramo 2009 El Médico Prieto 

Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 

y León). Roasted and rubbery smelling, this has heavy 

oak influence that yields notes of mint and shoe. Shearing 

on the palate despite its body, this has flavors of oakbased 

vanilla, mint and sweet-and-sour plum. Prieto 

Picudo is a difficult grape to make into good wine. Classical 



83 

Pago de Callejo 2008 Finca Valdelroble 

(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This 

smells like a new coat of road tar mixed with black olive 

tapenade and herb. It feels tannic and clumsy, with 

herb and stewed-fruit flavors. The cooked finish ends 

with roasted berry and olive notes. The Artisan Collection. 

—M.S. 


82 

Bodegas Fariña 2010 Peromato Tempranillo 

(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y 

León). Rubbery on the nose, this has berry aromas 

lurking below. On the palate, it feels acidic, with tart 

raspberry flavors. It’s lean on the finish, with a touch of 

oak. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $10 

82 

Raimat 2007 Castell de Raimat Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Costers del Segre). A tight 

note of spearmint defines the nose. The palate follows 

suit: It’s pinched and hard, with outsized acidity leading 

to a lemony palate, with searing cherry and red plum 

flavors. It doesn’t waiver on the finish. Aveniù Brands, 

Inc. —M.S. 

abv: 14% Price: $10

DESSERT WINES 

97 


Diva Fondillón Sweet Monastrell (Alicante). 

Fondillón represents the pinnacle of red Spanish 

dessert wines, and the 1999 vintage just might make 

your jaw drop. Subtle but expansive on the nose, with 

a blend of baked dark-fruit and cinnamon aromas, it 

is liquid heaven in the mouth, with excellent balance 

and flavors of roasted plums, black cherry, nutmeg and 

chocolate. This is pure, structured and outstanding 

from start to finish. Drink now or hold in a proper cellar 

for another 10 or 20 years. 100 cases made. Classical 

Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 

abv: 16% Price: $88/500 ml 

92 

Ochoa 2010 Vino Dulce Moscatel (Navarra). 

This smells like orange marmalade. It feels 

smooth and creamy, but not terribly thick due to fine 

acidity, with flavors of orange, honey, peach and spice. 

Long and creamy on the finish, this is a fresh, delicious 

wine that should impress anyone with a sweet tooth. 

Frontier Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $28/500 ml 

91 


Diva Recóndita Armonía Sweet Monastrell 

(Alicante). Composed and not the least bit pushy 

or punishing on the bouquet, this has gorgeous berry 

and spice aromas. It feels a bit racy and high in acidity, 

but that will only serve the wine well in the long run. 

Plum and boysenberry flavors lead to a racy, high-acid 

finish. Drink now–2020. Classical Wines. Cellar Selection. 

—M.S. 

abv: 14% Price: $30/500 ml 

90 

Costers del Priorat 2007 Dolç de l’Obac 

(Priorat). This starts out with mustard and 

horseradish aromas, but with the chance to breath, it 

reveals a dark berry scent. The palate feels tannic and 

sticky, with flavors of cooked plum, hard spice and 

brown sugar. It’s grabby, fiery and full of flavor on the 

finish, with a slightly abrasive feel. Spanish Vines, Inc. 

—M.S. 

abv: 17% Price: $129/500 ml 

88 

Dehesa el Carrascal 2008 Dulcemar Garnacha 

(Almansa). Rusty in color, this has a 

baked fruit aromas suggestive of raisin, cherry and 

plum. It’s thick, but it maintains freshness due to the 

solid acidity. This feels heavy, with robust flavors of 

roasted plum and blackberry, but the finish isn’t cloying. 

Iberian Wine Importers. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $25/500 ml 

PROVENCE 

WHITE WINES 

89 

Château Routas 2010 Coquelicot Viognier-Chardonnay 

(Vin de Pays Var). 

Smooth and rich, its creamy texture is rounded out with 

a toast note. Flavors of peppered apricot and green 

plum work well together to give a warm, concentrated 

wine that shows all of its ripe fruit up front. USA Wine 

West. —R.V. 


87 

Triennes 2010 Sainte-Fleur Viognier (Vin 

de Pays Var). This is a smooth, orange- and 

peach-flavored wine, with a rich almost oily texture. It’s 

rounded with light acidity on the finish. With its weight, 

this is a wine for food. The Sorting Table. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

85 

Château Routas 2010 White (Vin de Pays 

Var). Earthy aromas lead to a palate that is full 

bodied, with notes of yeast and spice to go with the 

white fruit. It has attractive acidity and a tangy citrusy 

finish. Screwcap. USA Wine West. —R.V. 


ROSÉS 

89 

Domaine Sainte-Marie 2011 VieVité Extraordinaire 

Rosé (Côtes de Provence). 

This is a complex, bone-dry rosé, with red fruit flavor, 

tight acidity and a mineral edge. With its weight, it is 

food friendly, offering a fine counterpoint to spicy dishes. 

Turquoise Life. —R.V. 


89 

Moncigale 2011 Frais et Délicat Rosé 

(Côtes de Provence). Full in the mouth, this 

food-friendly, minerally and textured wine has red berry 

fruits that are balanced by a tangy orange-zest character 

and a dry aftertaste. Grantham Distributing. —R.V. 


88 

Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Prestige 

Rosé (Côtes de Provence). As pale in color 

as is possible for a rosé, this is bright, crisp and fruity. 

It has delicious acidity and red apple and citrus flavors, 

with a burst of red currant on the finish. Misa Imports. 

—R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $18 

88 

Moncigale 2011 Frais et Fruité Rosé 

(Côtes de Provence). This is bright and 

fruity, with light, fragrant and poised red fruit. It has 

attractive acidity to balance. Grantham Distributing. 

—R.V. 


87 

Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Cuvée 

Spéciale Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This 

is a soft wine that is full in the mouth, with a raspberry 

purée flavor and soft acidity. It’s round with a depth of 

red fruit flavor and a warm finish. Misa Imports. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

87 

Domaine Sainte-Marie 2011 VieVité Rosé 

(Côtes de Provence). A fresh-faced rosé, 

with a rose-grey color, this has red fruit acidity and an 

attractive, creamy character to go with the crisp finish. 

Turquoise Life. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $18 

86 

Bieler Père et Fils 2011 Sabine Rosé 

(Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Rounded 

and soft, this has a touch of vanilla to go with the sweet 

strawberry fruit and crisp yet open acidity. Well balanced 

and dry, this would make for a good apéritif. 

Screwcap. Bieler Communications. —R.V. 


86 

Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Breezette 

Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Light, fruity and 

balanced, this combines acidity, red fruit and a bright 

feel. For drinking over this year. Turquoise Life. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $15 

86 

Vignerons de Correns 2011 Croix de 

Basson Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Fullbodied 

and ripely fruity, this has attractive strawberry 

fruits and a round texture. The acidity adds some freshness. 

Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. 


RED WINES 

90 

Château Routas 2008 Cyrano Syrah (Vin 

de Pays Var). Ripe and rich, this is a concentrated, 

spicy and perfumed Syrah. It is packed with sweet 

tannins and juicy blackberry fruit, with a cut of acidity. 

Its richness makes it already mature, although it could 

age for another few years. USA Wine West. —R.V. 


89 

Domaine de la Sanglière 2009 Prestige 

(Côtes de Provence). The aromas are warm 

and spicy. On the palate, there is a herbal character 

along with smooth red plum fruit and a toast note. It 

is rich while still preserving a light touch and acidity on 

the finish. Misa Imports. —R.V. 


88 

Château Routas 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Vin de Pays Var). Cabernet Sauvignon 

in Provence seems to evoke the herbal wild-thyme 

character of the countryside. This wine has weight to 

its black fruit flavors, with an edge from its tannins and 

acidity. It could age for 2–3 years. Screwcap. USA Wine 

West. —R.V. 


87 

Triennes 2008 Saint-August (Vin de Pays 

Var). A ripe and spicy blend of Syrah, Cabernet 

Sauvignon and Merlot, this has ripe black fruits that are 

laced with firm, dry tannins. There is a herbal character 

that gives it an edge. The Sorting Table. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

85 

Domaine de la Sanglière 2010 Cuvée 

Spéciale (Côtes de Provence). This is 

tastes stalky, with a red fruit flavor. It has acidity along 

with a vegetal, herbal character. With taut acidity and 

a dry, tannic finish, this is a real barbecue wine. Misa 


abv: 12.5% Price: $15 

SOUTHWEST FRANCE 

BERGERAC SEC 

90 

Château de la Jaubertie 2010 Mirabelle 

de la Jaubertie (Bergerac Sec). This wood- 


aged wine shows equal notes of toasty spice and ripe 

fruit. On the palate, it’s full and round, with pear and 

apricot flavors giving it richness. This is concentrated 

and worth aging for another 2–3 years. Bird Rock Imports. 

—R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $19 

87 

Château de Corbiac 2011 Cyrano de 

Bergerac (Bergerac Sec). This herbaceous 

wine has a green note, with layers of citrus fruits and an 

orange zest texture that lends a bright, fruity character. 

Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. 


85 

Château Bélingard 2011 Bergerac Sec. 

Smooth and rounded, this has light acidity, with 

citrus and pear flavors and a crisp finish. It needs to age 

for a year longer to allow its textured character a chance 

to smooth out even more. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. 

—R.V. 


85 

Château de la Jaubertie 2011 Bergerac 

Sec. Crisp and herbaceous, this has a citrus and 

green fruit character. Already drinkable, it is bright and 

fruity, finishing with a citrus tang. Bird Rock Imports. 

—R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

85 

Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2011 Bergerac 

Sec. Aromatic and richly fruity, this has surprising 

weight that gives the palate a round and smooth 

quality. The acidity is there, although it is covered by 

the superrich fruit. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. 


CÔTES DE GASCOGNE 

87 

Domaine du Tariquet 2011 Classic White 

(Côtes de Gascogne). Celebrating 100 

years of the domaine this year, Tariquet’s range of wines 

begins with this classic white. This has a crisp fruitiness, 

with a floral character and flavors of green plum, pear 

and a hint of pineapple. It’s delicious and ready to drink. 

Screwcap. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V. 


87 

Domaine Uby 2011 No. 1 Sauvignon 

Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). This is a 

tropical-fruit-oriented Sauvignon Blanc, with notes of 

yellow fruits and spices and a very floral character. With 

its textured nature, it could age for another year. Baron 

Francois Ltd. —R.V. 


87 

Domaine Uby 2011 No. 3 Ugni Blanc- 

Colombard (Côtes de Gascogne). Fruity 

and crisp, this has fresh fruit with a herbal edge. It is 

bright with a green fruit character, finishing with a note 

of citrus. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. 


86 

Barton & Guestier 2011 Réserve Sauvignon 

Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). Bright 

and fruity, this has an herbal character that’s balanced 

by flavors of pineapple, red apple and a fine tang of 


refreshing citrus. Screwcap. Barton & Guestier USA. 



85 

François Lurton 2011 Fumées Blanches 

Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). 

This is a pure and herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc. Crisp, 

citrus driven and refreshing, it has a clean character and 

a delicious zesty texture that acidity to the fruitiness. 

Screwcap. Vintus LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 


85 

Vignobles Drieux 2011 Villa Dria Colombard-Sauvignon 

Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). 

Spice and seemingly sweet grapefruit flavors 

give this light, lively and crisp wine an attractive fruity 

character. It dances easily on the palate, finishing with 

good tang. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $13 

84 

Cheval Quancard 2011 Domaine de 

Lamothe Colombard-Sauvignon Blanc 

(Côtes de Gascogne). Fragrant, fresh and fruity, 

this light and bright wine offers an herbal character 

to go with its citrus and green apple fruits. It is lively 

and crisp—a fine apéritif. Screwcap. Cheval Quancard. 

—R.V. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $13 

JURANÇON SEC 

90 

Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Cami Salié (Jurançon 

Sec). The two great white grapes of 

southwest France, Gros Manseg and Petit Manseng, are 

blended together to create this crisp, peach- and citrusflavored 

wine. A spice note adds a more exotic edge, 

while the wine finishes with tight, tangy acidity. Pierre 

Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. 


88 

Domaine Nigri 2011 Confluence (Jurançon 

Sec). With a little addition of the local 

grapes Camaralet and Lauzet, this Gros Manseng-dominated 

wine is aromatic and spicy, packed with greenfruit 

acidity. The texture has a creamed-pear smoothness 

to contrast with the acidity. This will be delicious in 

a year. Good Company Wines. —R.V. 



86 

Château le Raz 2010 White (Côtes de 

Montravel). This is a lightly sweet wine that 

has perfumed apricot and orange fruits. Balanced with 

acidity, this would be just right as an apéritif. Demontoux 

Fine Wines. —R.V. 


85 

Château le Raz 2010 White (Montravel). 

White currant is the dominant flavor of this herbaceous, 

tangy wine. It also has notes of has green fruit 

and pink grapefruit, with a tight, zingy finish. Demontoux 

Fine Wines. —R.V. 


ROSÉS 

88 

Triennes 2011 Rosé (Vin de Pays Var). 

This is has flavors of apple and red currant, with 

a dry, light touch. The acidity cuts through the palate, 

giving it an attractive freshness, with a touch of spice 

and a crisp finish. The Sorting Table. —R.V. 


85 

Château Plaisance 2011 Rosé (Fronton). 

This is a smooth, rounded rosé made mainly 

from Négrette. Along with its youthful crispness, it also 

has a more creamy side and a crushed strawberry flavor, 

all lightened by balancing acidity. VOS Selections. 

—R.V. 


84 

Château Bélingard 2011 Rosé (Bergerac 

Rosé). Soft and ripe, this has a red fruit flavor, 

with richness and a round texture. There is a touch 

of spice, with a light hint of acidity in the background. 

Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $13 

BERGERAC ROUGE 

90 

Château Bélingard 2009 Cuvée Blanche 

de Bosredon (Côtes de Bergerac). This is 

a firm, chunky wine that shows ripe plum fruit and dark 

tannins. It has weight and richness that are balanced 

by the dense structure. It needs to age for at least four 

years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. 

—R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

90 

Château Bélingard 2009 Ortus (Côtes 

de Bergerac). This wood-aged cuvée from 

Château Belingard has great weight and concentration 

while also showing dense spice and blackberry flavors. 

At this stage, it is showing the wood; but in another year, 

it will round out and its dark juicy fruit will come forward. 

Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $25 

90 


de la Jaubertie (Bergerac). Made using 

selections of the best parcels from Jaubertie, this is a 

complex and structured wine. Mint and new wood flavors 

are still dominant, although the fruit shows its black 

fruit richness. Age for over four years. Bird Rock Imports. 

Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

88 

Château Bélingard 2010 Red (Bergerac). 

Structured and firm, this is a solid, chunky wine. 

With its black fruit flavors merging with a more dry 

and tannic core, it is both dense and ageworthy. Acidity 

leavens its rich character. Age for 3–4 years. Deutsch 

Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

87 


de la Jaubertie (Bergerac). This is a firm 

and tannic wine that is maturing. It remains dry, with a 

definite mineral character to go with the black currant

fruit. It’s not likely to age further. Bird Rock Imports. 

—R.V. 


86 

Château Bélingard 2010 Cuvée Alliance 

(Bergerac). The structure is present as is 

the bright black-currant fruit. It has some richness, although 

it is tempered with acidity and a stalky character. 

Age for 2–3 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. 

—R.V. 


86 

Château de la Jaubertie 2010 Red 

(Bergerac). A fruity wine that’s laced with 

wood, this is smooth and lightly tannic. The red and 

black berry fruits are at the fore, supported by a toast 

character and lifting acidity Age for 1–2 years, but the 

wine is drinkable now. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. 


84 

Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2009 Red 

(Bergerac). This is a rough-edged wine that 

has some dry tannins and red berry acidity. It’s light on 

the palate with a fresh character. Drink in a year. Stephen 

Augustus Imports. —R.V. 


CAHORS 

93 

Jean-Luc Baldès 2009 Clos Triguedina 

The New Black Wine (Cahors). Made from 

grape must that is heated before fermentation, this is 

powerful and concentrated, with a rich and very dense 

character. Prune, dried fruit and fresh plum notes combine 

with an intense background of acidity. Age for at 

least five years. Eagle Eye Brands. Cellar Selection. 

—R.V. 


93 

Mas del Périé 2009 La Pièce (Cahors). 

The top cuvée from Mas del Périé, this is a concentrated 

wine, with new wood and black fruit notes. 

It’s packed with intense tannins, spice from the wood 

aging and a great depth of flavor. This is an impressive 

wine that will need to age for at least 5–6 years. Wine 

Traditions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $85 

92 

Mas del Périé 2009 Les Acacias (Cahors). 

Hugely concentrated, powerful and 

ageworthy, this has mint and new wood aromas. It has 

rich damson and blackberry fruits that push through the 

mineral texture and dark tannins, filling the mouth with 

its exuberant ripeness. Age for four years. Wine Traditions. 

Cellar Selection. —R.V. 


91 


(Cahors). This is beautifully structured, 

packed with black fruits, ripe tannins and balanced acidity. 

It’s still young, showing the black fruit side of Malbec, 

but the tannins are already integrating well into the 

structure. Age for 4–5 years. European Wine Imports. 



91 

Mas del Périé 2010 La Roque (Cahors). 

Dense and almost black in color, this is concentrated, 

with intense tannins and black plum fruit. 

It bursts with the rich fruit and acidity, finishing on a 

smoky, juicy note. Wine Traditions. —R.V. 


90 

Château d’Ourbenac 2006 Cahors. Powerful 

and concentrated, this has flavors of black 

plum skin and damson, with a juicy layer surrounding 

the solid structure. Weighty and dense, it could age for 

several more years. CIL US Inc. —R.V. 


90 

Château Vincens 2009 Origine (Cahors). 

Dominated by its new wood flavors, this dense 

and concentrated wine has the weight, potential blackfruit 

richness and acidity that suggest a good future. Age 

for 3–4 years. Jon-David Headrick Selections. —R.V. 


89 

Château Vincens 2009 L’Instant (Cahors). 

A mineral-driven wine, this is structured 

and firmly tannic. It has weight and concentration along 

with wood and blackberry flavors. Very concentrated, 

age this for another two years. Jon-David Headrick 

Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. 


89 


Petit Clos (Cahors). This is an attractive 

wine, with fruit and firm, supporting tannins. It has a 

mint flavor and a smooth texture, balanced with damson 

fruit. This is ripe and ready to drink over the next year. 

Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —R.V. 


89 

Mas del Périé 2010 Les Escures (Cahors). 

Forward and fruity, this is already developing 

its black plum fruit. The wine has a ripe, juicy and 

seemingly sweet character. With its supporting tannins, 

this should be ready to drink in 1–2 years. Wine Traditions. 

—R.V. 



91 

Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Mon Adour 

(Madiran). The wine’s name comes from the 

Adour River that flows through the Madiran region. 

This is dark colored, powerful and spicy, with weight 

and richness that should allow this to age for at least 

four years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. 


abv: 14.5% Price: $17 

90 

Château le Raz 2005 Red (Montravel). 

This is a finely structured, tarry-flavored wine, 

with notes of herbs and sweet spices along with mature 

fruits. It’s rich and full bodied, with just a touch of pepper. 

Drink now or age for another year. Demontoux 

Fine Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 


88 

Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Donibane 

(Irrouléguy). A blend of Cabernet Franc and 

Tannat, this is spicy, smoky and herbal. It is dense, with 

a green, stalky edge that comes from the acidity and 

black tannins. Age for two years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine 

Partners. —R.V. 


87 

Château Plaisance 2010 Red (Fronton). 

With a predominance of Négrette in the blend, 

this is a warm and spicy wine. It has attractive flavors of 

red fruits, herbs and juicy peppered-plums, with some 

firm tannins. It could age for 2–3 years. VOS Selections. 

—R.V. 


87 

Domaine Laurens 2009 Cuvée de Flars 

(Marcillac). A blend of 20% Cabernet Sauvignon 

and 80% Fer Servadou, this is the top cuvée from 

Domaine Laurens. It has a new wood richness and firm 

tannins, with an herbal character that blends into the 

blackberry fruit. Age for another year. Bird Rock Imports. 

—R.V. 


85 

Cave du Marmandais 2009 La Vieille Eglise 

Réserve (Côtes du Marmandais). 

With 30% of the local Abouriou grape in the blend, 

this is herbal and spicy. It has a round character that is 

beefed up by the weight and tannins imparted by the 

addition of Malbec. Red fruits dominate, making this 

ready to drink. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

85 

Domaine Laurens 2010 Marcillac. This is 

herbal, with black currant and thyme flavors 

all set in tannins. The Fer Servadou grape gives this a 

stalky, wild feeling. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. 


84 

Rigal 2010 The Original Malbec (Vin de 

Pays du Lot). Light and juicy, this has fresh 

blackcurrant fruit, with balanced tannins. With its fruit 

forward flavor, it’s not a wine for aging. Vinum International 

. —R.V. 


DESSERT WINES 

90 

Domaine Nigri 2010 Pas de Deux (Jurançon). 

Beautifully balanced and poised, this 

blends light, dancing acidity with rich, sweet botrytis 

fruit. It’s fruity, with honey and orange flavors that are a 

delight to taste. It could be aged, but it is delicious now. 

Good Company Wines. —R.V. 


89 

Domaine Uby 2011 No. 4 (Côtes de Gascogne). 

Medium sweet in character, this is a 

round, ripe wine. Its flavors show apricot, bitter orange 

and tangerine that are spiced with just a touch of honey. 

Pair this with a pâté or a fruit dessert. Baron Francois 

Ltd. —R.V. 


88 

Château Bélingard 2009 Monbazillac. 

Light and fruity, this has honey, spice and tangerine 

flavors. It is smooth, rounded and rich; age for 


2–3 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. 

—R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $13 

88 

Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Estela Vintage 

(Vin de Liqueur). A fortified blend of Tannat 

and Malbec, this is a ripe and sweet, styled like a vintage 

Port. It has a powerful structure from the two tannic 

grapes in the blend, along with ripe damson fruit and 

spice, with acidity on the finish. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine 

Partners. —R.V. 

abv: 16.5% Price: $24 

87 

Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2009 Monbazillac. 

Rich and concentrated, this has flavors 

of honey and vanilla wafer. It has a bite of ginger and 

orange marmalade. The acidity is subdued, suggesting 

a wine that will age quickly and mature in the next year. 

Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. 


86 

Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa Chambre 

d’Amour (Jurançon). This is a lightly sweet 

wine made from superripe Gros Manseng and Sauvignon 

Blanc. It has apricot, raisin and pineapple flavors 

along with some yeastiness. A fine apéritif wine. Pierre 

Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. 

abv: 10.5% Price: $12 

RHÔNE WHITES 

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 

90 

Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand 

Veneur (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This fullbodied 

blend of 60% Clairette and 40% Roussanne is 

probably best consumed over the next several months. 

The apple and tangerine aromas and flavors are inviting, 

and there’s a minerally sensation of wet stones underneath. 

Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. 


89 

Domaine Font de Michelle 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 

This is a broad, mouthcoating 

blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette 

and Bourboulenc. Apricot, tangerine and honey notes 

dominate the palate, finishing long and just a bit warm. 

Opt for drinking it over the next 6–9 months. Robert 

Kacher Selections. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $45 

86 

Vignobles La Coterie 2007 Châteauneufdu-Pape. 

This 2007 is nearing the end of its 

shelf life, but it still features a round, ample mouthfeel 

and pleasant honey, peach and citrus flavors. Drink up. 

Cordon Selections. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $36 

84 


Veneur La Fontaine (Châteauneuf-du- 

Pape). A rare slip up from the talented Jaume family, 

this 100% Roussanne is swimming in smoky, toasty oak, 

with the fruit currently hidden. You could gamble on it 

bouncing back in 5–6 years, or just wait for the betterbalanced 

2010. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $70 


CÔTES DU RHÔNE 

91 

E. Guigal 2010 Côtes du Rhône. More than 

half of the blend is Viognier, which no doubt accounts 

for its dramatic aromas and flavors of exotic tropical 

fruit, only just reined in by more citrusy notes. It’s 

full bodied and round in the mouth without being at all 

flabby, with a crisp, clean, lingering finish. Drink it over 

the next year. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $19 

90 


Veneur Blanc de Viognier (Côtes du 

Rhône). Viognier from the Southern Rhône can often 

be overripe and heavy, but while this offering from 

Grand Veneur is full bodied and richly textured, it remains 

reasonably fresh. Apricot, pineapple and passion 

fruit flavors mingle easily on the palate, finishing 

clean and long. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ 

Choice. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $25 

90 

André Brunel 2010 Domaine de la Becassonne 

(Côtes du Rhône). This wine delivers 

all you could want from a Southern Rhône white, 

from its ample weight in the mouth to its deft combination 

of melon, citrus and wet stone. Finishes long and 

mouthwatering. Drink over the next 6–9 months. Robert 

Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 


89 

Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Les Laurelles 

(Côtes du Rhône). Despite containing 50% 

Viognier, this is a restrained Côtes du Rhône white, 

with subtle citrus and wet stone shadings and a refined, 

medium-weight mouthfeel. It finishes well, with plenty 

of length and hints of citrus and honey. Drink it over the 

next year or two. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $19 

88 

LePlan-Vermeersch 2010 LePlan Classic 

(Côtes du Rhône). This is fresh and citrusy, 

with melony fruit and ample weight on the palate 

but also enough backbone to keep the flavors taut and 

focused. Drink it over the next year or so. Hand Picked 

Selections. —J.C. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $20 

87 

Alain Jaume et Fils 2010 Réserve Grand 

Veneur (Côtes du Rhône). A blend of 50% 

Roussanne, 40% Viognier and 10% Clairette, this is a 

full-bodied Southern Rhône that somehow manages 

to retain aromas of wet stone and crisp, zesty flavors of 

melon and pear. Drink it over the next several months. 

Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

87 

Ferraton Pere et Fils 2010 Samorëns 

(Côtes du Rhône). The Grenache Blanc 

(60%) gives this wine its delicate aromas of white flowers, 

while the Clairette (40%) provides backbone and 

pineapple fruit. Drink this relatively soft, mouthfilling 

white over the next few months. Baron Francois Ltd. 

—J.C. 


87 

Ogier 2010 Heritages Blanc (Côtes du 

Rhône). A surprisingly strong effort, Ogier’s 

Heritage Blanc shows some intriguing notes of orange 

and mushroom on the nose, then follows up with plenty 

of heft on the palate and a long, citrusy finish. Drink it 

over the next several months. Vinum International. Best 

Buy. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

87 

Perrin & Fils 2010 Réserve (Côtes du 

Rhône). The Perrin family’s line of négociant 

wines includes this reliable white, which features melon 

and pineapple aromas and flavors, medium body and a 

clean, reasonably crisp finish. Drink it over the next six 

months. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —J.C. 


86 

Andrieux & Fils 2010 Cuvée Marie 

Vieilles Vignes (Côtes du Rhône). This 

full-bodied blend of Viognier, Clairette and Grenache 

Blanc is a pretty typical white from the Southern 

Rhône. It’s largely neutral in aroma and flavor save for 

a modest melon note, with a weighty mouthfeel. Drink 

soon. Vinum Distribution Inc. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 


90 

Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Viognier (Vin de 

Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes). A terrific 

value in French Viognier, this “simple” Vin de Pays 

displays full-on floral aromas of honeysuckle and rose 

pollen, fleshed out on the palate by hints of apricot and 

pineapple. It’s medium to full in body, with a slightly 

creamy texture and a dusting of tannin and white pepper 

on the finish. Drink it over the next year or so. 

Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

85 

Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Secret de 

Famille Viognier (Vin de Pays des Portes 

de Méditerranée). This is a pleasantly quaffable Viognier, 

with restrained apricot and melon aromas and flavors. 

It’s medium bodied, without much texture, but 

a clean, refreshing finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, 

Ltd. —J.C. 


RHÔNE REDS 

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 

93 


Veneur Les Origines (Châteauneuf-du- 

Pape). Loaded with black cherry and plum fruit, this 

is an amply endowed Châteauneuf-du-Pape that avoids 

excess. The fruit flavors remain fresh and vibrant, the 

oaking is understated and the wine’s size is ably supported 

by soft tannins and just-sufficient acidity. Drink 

now–2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. 

abv: 15.5% Price: $70 

92 


Veneur (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Even 

Grand Veneur’s traditional cuvée shines in 2009, offering 

up notions of black cherries and chocolate liqueur.

It’s full bodied and richly textured, with a long, velvety 

finish. Simply put, it’s plush and delicious, with no need 

to age it any further. Drink now–2020. Kysela Père et 

Fils. —J.C. 

abv: 15.5% Price: $53 

91 

Les Trois Couronnes 2010 Châteauneufdu-Pape. 

This blend of 60% Grenache, 20% 

Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre delivers juicy, almost gulpable 

fruit, supported by a loose spine of soft tannins. Purple 

raspberry and black cherry flavors linger on the supple 

finish. Drink now–2018. The Other Wine & Spirits. Editors’ 

Choice. —J.C. 


91 

M. Chapoutier 2009 Le Bernardine (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). 

Chapoutier has fashioned 

a full-bodied, creamy-textured 2009 Le Bernardine, 

with dark, plummy fruit and a hint of chocolate liqueur 

that ably reflect the warm vintage. Yet despite all of the 

lushness, the wine doesn’t come across as heavy or overdone, 

making it attractive for early drinking. Try now– 

2018. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $56 

91 

Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Lieu-Dit Pignan 

(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This is a wine that 

teeters on the edge between superripeness and overripeness. 

At one moment its fruit comes across as slightly 

herbal and raspberry-like, while the next it can seem 

slightly raisined, with a hint of nail polish. It’s round 

and creamy in texture, with a long finish framed in elegant, 

soft tannins. Drink now–2018. Massanois Imports. 

—J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $74 

90 

Domaine de Nalys 2009 Réserve (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). 

Atypical for the appellation 

in that it’s 80% Syrah, this is a dark-fruited, slightly 

pruny Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Chocolate and licorice 

notes add complexity to this full-bodied, firmly structured 

wine. With its long, chewy finish, consider deferring 

consumption until at least 2014. Frank-Lin International. 

—J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $68 

90 

Kirkland Signature 2010 Cuvée de Nalys 

(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). For full review see 

page 9. Editors’ Choice. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

90 

Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Châteauneuf-du- 

Pape. This is a silky-textured, medium-bodied 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with lifted red-berry fruit and 

grace notes of thyme blossom and bay leaf. It’s a truly 

elegant style, with a supple, mouth-watering finish. 

Drink now–2018. Massanois Imports. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $51 

90 

Skalli 2009 La Tiare du Pape (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). 

Shows some oak aging 

in its aromas of cedar, caramel and baking spices, but 

also in the velvety mouthfeel and slightly drying finish. 

Thankfully, there are just enough ripe cherries to carry 

the freight, so while purists may be dismayed, plenty 

more will enjoy the wine’s mix of fruit and oak. Drink 

now–2018. Skalli Family Wines. —J.C. 


89 

Delas Frères 2009 Haute Pierre (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). 

At only 10% Syrah, this 

is quite different in composition from most of Delas’s 

wines. The rest is Grenache, and in 2009 the result is 

slightly pruny, with touches of coffee, chocolate and 

Christmas spice. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture 

without being soft, thanks to the crisp acids and silky 

tannins on the finish. Drink it over the next few years. 

Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —J.C. 


89 

Gabriel Meffre 2009 Saint-Théodoric 

(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). A full-bodied wine 

that shows some warm-vintage effects in its aromas and 

flavors of stewed prunes, mocha, leather and chocolate. 

It’s mouthfilling and a bit warm on the finish. Drink 

now–2017. Gabriel Meffre America. —J.C. 


88 

André Brunel 2009 Châteauneuf-du- 

Pape. Despite some tough tannins on the finish, 

this is an intriguingly complex wine that may prove 

even better than this rating suggests. It starts with a 

garrigue note and a hint of tapenade, then adds bright 

cherry fruit and plenty of dusty tannins. Drink 2014– 

2020. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. 


87 

Domaine de Nalys 2009 Châteauneuf-du- 

Pape. This is an immediately accessible Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 

with moderately concentrated red 

fruit, leather and clove notes, crisp acids and just a hint 

of supple tannin on the finish. Drink it over the next several 

years. Frank-Lin International. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $39 

87 

Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Otéliées 

(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This négociant 

based in the Northern Rhône has turned out a meaty, 

savory Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s full bodied and firmly 

structured, with plenty of clove, leather and peppered 

beef. Drink 2014–2020. Domaine Select Wine Estates. 

—J.C. 


86 

Domaine Patrice Magni 2009 Sensation 

(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Dominated by 

Grenache, Magni’s 2009 Sensation displays distinctive 

notes of pie cherry, stewed rhubarb, watermelon and 

cracked pepper. Medium to full in the mouth, it boasts 

exceptionally silky tannins. Tart and peppery on the finish 

but not at all unpleasant. Domaine Select Wine Estates. 

—J.C. 


CORNAS 

93 

Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 La Louvée Syrah 

(Cornas). For full review see page 5. 


93 

Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Barcillants 

(Cornas). This seems awfully civilized for Cor- 

nas, with bold, clean blueberry fruit front and center, 

anchored by a framework of cedar and vanilla. This fullbodied, 

lush, creamy expression of Northern Rhône 

Syrah should drink well through 2025. Domaine Select 

Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 


91 

Cave de Tain 2009 Areñes Sauvages 

(Cornas). As in many 2009s from the Northern 

Rhône, the Syrah fruit is superripe. Add in aging 

in 100% new oak barrels and the result is a big, richly 

tannic wine redolent of vanilla, cedar and blackberries. 

Drink now–2025. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $50 

90 

Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 Terres Brulées 

Syrah (Cornas). An excellent introduction to 

the wines of Cornas, this is a gently structured example, 

but one that shows ample complexity. Coffee, herb and 

green olive notes intertwine with a smoky, bacon-like 

element. An espresso note and soft tannins linger on the 

finish. Drink now–2020. Palm Bay International. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $48 

CÔTE RÔTIE 

93 

E. Guigal 2008 Château d’Ampuis (Côte 

Rôtie). In this difficult vintage, Guigal’s Château 

Ampuis bottling shines. The kinky nose features 

exotic notes of celery seed, cracked pepper, hickory 

smoke and mixed berries, while in the mouth the wine 

shows ample fullness and intensity without losing any of 

the silky character that makes Côte Rôtie special. Drink 

now–2020. Vintus LLC. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $160 

90 

E. Guigal 2008 Brune et Blonde (Côte Rôtie). 

Because of the extended elevage carried 

out at Guigal, the company’s releases are always behind 

the market as a whole. Despite a tough vintage, this is an 

elegant, silky-textured wine, with complex notes of green 

olive, raspberry and cracked pepper. Vintus LLC. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $75 


91 

Domaine Patrice Magni 2010 La Cueillette 

(Côtes du Rhône). A terrific value, 

Magni’s Côtes du Rhône comes from an area just outside 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s Coudoulet lieu dit. The 

blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah is full bodied 

and richly textured, with vibrant fruit flavors of dark 

berries and savory overtones. Its long, velvety finish 

suggests drinking now and over the next 5–8 years. 

Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 


91 

Sélection Laurence Féraud 2011 Côtes 

du Rhône. This super bargain reflects the 

charm of the 2011 vintage in its supple tannins and forward 

fruit. It’s lush and creamy textured, with expressive 

notes of kirsch, spice and cocoa. Drink now–2017. 

Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $16 

90 

CDR 2010 Côtes du Rhône. A mediumbodied 

blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, 


this wine offers a supple feel and plenty of red berry and 

cherry fruit, with just enough spice to give it additional 

interest. Drink it over the next year or two. Domaine 

Select Wine Estates. Best Buy. —J.C. 


90 

Cellier des Chartreux 2010 Chevalier 

d’Anthelme (Côtes du Rhône). This is an 

impressive effort from a co-op in the Gard. Black olive, 

coffee and blackberry notes suggest a healthy proportion 

of Syrah in the blend. It’s a bit stern at first, but 

ends on a long, richly tannic note. Holiday Beverage. 

—J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $21 

90 

La Font du Vent 2009 Les Promesses 

(Côtes du Rhône). From the Gonnets of 

Font de Michelle in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this is the 

family’s entry-level wine from an estate in the southern 

part of the Côtes du Rhône. The medium-bodied raspberry 

fruit is accented by hints of cracked pepper, dried 

spices and leather. It’s supple enough to drink now and 

over the next 4–5 years. Robert Kacher Selections. Best 

Buy. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

90 

Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Guy Louis (Côtes 

du Rhône). More Tardieu-Laurent than Côtes 

du Rhône, with hallmark exotic, nearly tropical notes 

suggestive of toasted coconut, vanilla and apricot. It’s 

full bodied and plush in texture, with a long, cedary and 

velvety finish. Drink it over the next few years. Wilson 

Daniels Ltd. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $28 

89 

Ogier 2010 Heritages (Côtes du Rhône). 

A surprisingly strong effort from Ogier, this 

is marked by dark, earthy notes of espresso, black olives 

and blackberries. Drink this full-bodied, slightly 

chewy wine over the next few years. Imported by Classic 

Wines of California and Vinum International. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $15 

87 

Les Trois Couronnes 2011 Côtes du 

Rhône. Offering uncomplicated, easy drinking, 

this Grenache-Syrah blend is lush and immediately 

accessible, displaying the charm of the 2011 vintage. 

Drink it over the next year or two for its gulpable cherry 

and chocolate flavors. The Other Wine & Spirits. Best 

Buy. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $9 

86 

André Brunel 2009 Côtes du Rhône. A 

slightly chunky and inelegant Côtes du Rhône, 

this wine nevertheless delivers satisfying and assertive 

notes of black olive, espresso and dark chocolate. Drink 

it over the next few years. Robert Kacher Selections. 

—J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

86 

Les Vignerons d’Estezargues 2010 Terre 

de Mistral (Côtes du Rhône). This intriguing 

blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Carignan combines 

crisp red-fruit flavors and lush, creamy tannins. 

There’s a slightly herbal tinge as well. Drink it over the 

next year or two. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $17 


86 

Les Vignobles Foncalieu 2009 Bastide de 

Beauvert (Côtes du Rhône). This smooth, 

easygoing blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah is a 

pleasant surprise, offering up bright raspberry fruit and 

a hint of chocolaty richness. Drink it over the next year 

or so. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

86 

Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Parallèle 45 

(Côtes du Rhône). This blend of 60% Grenache 

and 40% Syrah is atypically big and burly in 2009, 

showing some intense coffee and charcoal notes layered 

over black cherry fruit. Dusty tannins mark the finish, 

so serve it alongside fatty meats where the tannins will 

work in the wine’s favor. Frederick Wildman & Sons, 

Ltd. —J.C. 


86 

Skalli 2009 Les Rabassières (Côtes du 

Rhône). A silky, medium-bodied selection, this 

features elegant notes of cherries, fine leather and baking 

spices. It’s a soft, easy-to-drink wine for immediate 

consumption. Skalli Family Wines. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

85 

Château du Trignon 2009 Côtes du 

Rhône. Tart and slightly herbal, with crisp red 

fruit that never really fills out on the palate. It’s pleasant 

enough for an everyday quaff, just not particularly 

memorable. David Milligan Selections. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

85 

Domaine du Gros Pata 2009 Cuvée Sabine 

(Côtes du Rhône). This wine has wonderfully 

perfumed aromas of cherries and raspberries, 

but seemingly stops there. The flavors are enjoyable but 

simple and while the mouthfeel is ample, the finish falls 

off a bit. P.R. Grisley Company. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

83 

Chateau Saint Nabor 2010 Tradition 

(Côtes du Rhône). This has a deeply flushed, 

burgundy core. The reluctant nose shows graphite, 

game and pepper, with boysenberry and blackberry 

joining underbrush and cedar on the palate. The very 

average fruit concentration shows light dilution and 

leads to a short finish. Moderately drying tannins and 

lively acidity frame the supple body and will allow it to 

hold for at least two years though the wine will not likely 

evolve to benefit. Valley View Wine Sales. —W.E. 



VILLAGES 

91 

LePlan-Vermeersch 2009 GT-G Grand 

Terroir Grenache (Côtes du Rhône Villages). 

This wine starts off with vanilla, cinnamon and 

dark cherry notes on the nose, with the oak-derived elements 

marrying nicely with the Grenache fruit. It’s full 

bodied, liquorous and lush, with a long, velvety finish. 

Probably best over the next 4–5 years. Hand Picked Selections. 

—J.C. 


91 

Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Signargues 

(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Morel, the gen- 

eral manager at M. Chapoutier, also has his own label, 

which includes this very attractive wine from Signargues, 

the southernmost villages appellation of the 

Côte du Rhône. It’s full bodied and ripe without being 

flabby or unstructured, delivering blueberry and blackberry 

fruit, peppery spice and a long finish that reverberates 

with fruit and an espresso note. Massanois Imports. 

Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

90 

Les Vins de Vienne 2009 La Tine Visan 

(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Visan is a village 

that can produce some ageworthy wines, and this 

looks to be in that same mold, with firm tannins framing 

blackberry and black olive flavors. Give it another year 

or two, then drink it over the next 5–6. Domaine Select 

Wine Estates. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $26 

90 

Sélection Laurence Féraud 2009 Séguret 

(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Laurence 

Féraud’s selections (her family owns Domaine de Pégaü 

in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) for her négociant line, 

like this Séguret, often represent excellent values. This 

is a full-bodied, velvety wine filled with notes of kirsch 

and Mexican chocolate. The finish is warm and comforting, 

and like a thick blanket, it would be a welcome sight 

this winter. Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ Choice. 

—J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $22 

89 

Boutinot 2009 La Côte Sauvage Cairanne 

(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Cairanne is said 

to be in line to become the Rhône’s next cru, and this 

wine is a solid example. It artfully marries fruit and 

spice in a medium-bodied wine with suple tannins and 

suprisingly crisp acids. Drink now–2018. Regal Wine 

Imports Inc. —J.C. 


89 

Laudun Chusclan 2010 Clos de Taman 

(Côtes du Rhône Villages). This has an impenetrable 

black core with fuschia highlights. The vibrant, 

mineral-driven Old World nose has asphalt, charcoal 

and charred wood notes leading the way. Black 

currant, rhubarb, lingonberry and linden leaf carry the 

flavors. The dense, concentrated palate is taut—and 

slightly awkward—with marked acidity, mild viscosity 

and firm tannins. The prolonged finish is multidimensional 

and complex. This is a cuvée to follow as it shows 

plenty of potential. Drink now and for the next three 

years. —W.E. 


88 

André Brunel 2009 Cuvée Sabrine (Côtes 

du Rhône Villages). Dark and intense, with 

notes of roasted meat, plum and black olive that give 

way to an espresso note and chalky tannins on the finish. 

Pretty stern stuff, which just means you’ll want to give it 

another year or two before drinking it over the next 5–6 

years. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. 


88 

La Font du Vent 2009 Notre Passion Signargues 

(Côtes du Rhône Villages). This 

is atypically medium bodied for the warm 2009 vintage, 

with an admirable degree of lightness and drinkability.

Tart berry fruit is accented by rose hips and orange zest, 

then finishes crisp and lingering. Drink it over the next 

several years. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. 


88 

LePlan-Vermeersch 2009 GT-S Grand 

Terroir Syrah (Côtes du Rhône Villages). 

Full bodied and thickly textured, this Southern Rhône 

Syrah combines cedar and vanilla notes from oak aging 

with notes of brandied cherries and a bit of asphalt. 

It’s long on the finish, with a plush feel, then ends on a 

slightly bitter note. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. 


88 

Perrin & Fils 2009 L’Andéol Rasteau 

(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Starts with 

raspberry and cherry aromas and a dusty, earthy note 

that adds complexity and character. You can sense the 

warmth of the vintage in the glass, with slightly raisined 

notes that come through on the palate alongside the 

supple tannins. Drink it over the next few years. Vineyard 

Brands. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $25 

86 

Les Vignobles Foncalieu 2009 La Réserve 

du Crouzau St. Gervais (Côtes du Rhône 

Villages). A solid, medium-bodied effort, this Saint 

Gervais boasts fine complexity on the nose, where it 

mixes berries with smoke and olive before turning darker 

on the palate, finally ending with hints of bitter chocolate 

and espresso. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

CROZES-HERMITAGE 

92 

Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Crozes-Hermitage. 

For full review see page 6. Editors’ 

Choice. 


92 

Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de 

Thalabert (Crozes-Hermitage). Despite 

this wine’s thick veneer of toasty, vanilla-scented oak, it 

has plenty of underlying fruit, powerful enough to handle 

the wood. It’s full bodied, dense and richly textured, 

with a long, velvety finish redolent of blackberries and 

cedar. Approachable now, but should easily age through 

2025. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. 

—J.C. 


91 

Dauvergne & Ranvier 2009 Vin Rare 

(Crozes-Hermitage). This selection shows 

pure black-cherry fruit on the nose, then it folds in hints 

of flowers, spices, chocolate and coffee on the palate. 

It’s full bodied and creamy in texture without being 

heavy, then finishes long. Ready to drink, but should 

easily hold another 5–6 years. The Sorting Table. —J.C. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $30 

91 

Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Palignons 

(Crozes-Hermitage). This is Les Vins de 

Vienne’s upscale Crozes, and it’s very successful in 2009, 

featuring bold, concentrated blackberry fruit supported 

by hints of vanilla and toast. It’s full bodied and richly 

textured, with a long, layered finish. Drink now–2020. 

Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $40 

91 

Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de 

Roure (Crozes-Hermitage). If the oak integrates 

better and recedes more into the fruit than I suspect, 

this rating will look conservative. Right now, oak is 

front and center, arrayed in ranks of toasted cedar and 

vanilla. It’s full bodied and chewy in texture, with a long, 

plushly oaky finish. Try after 2015. Frederick Wildman 

& Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C. 


90 

Vidal-Fleury 2009 Crozes-Hermitage. This 

is nicely floral on the nose, with black cherry 

fruit accented by hints of thyme and bay leaf, while the 

flavors are a harmonious mélange of herb, spice and ripe 

fruit. It’s full bodied and slightly chewy at first, turning 

more velvety on the finish. Drink now–2017. Deutsch 

Family Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 


89 

Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Crozes-Hermitage. 

This supple, medium-bodied wine packs 

in many of the notes that make Syrah from the Northern 

Rhône so compelling: coffee, tar, leather, black olive, 

chocolate and roasted meat, all backed by raspberrycherry 

fruit. Enjoy the ride over the next several years. 



87 

Cave de Tain 2009 Fine Fleur de Crozes 

(Crozes-Hermitage). Shows pleasant Northern 

Rhône Syrah notes of raspberry and cherry, even 

if it’s not particularly textured or complex. The fruit is 

crisp and forward, with sufficient tannins to ably partner 

burgers or steaks. Drink it over the next few years. 

Cognac One, LLC. —J.C. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $22 

GIGONDAS 

90 

Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Pimpignoles 

(Gigondas). This wine has plenty to 

offer, from brightly fruity and peppery aromas to flavors 

of cherry, leather amd spice. The tannins are silky in texture, 

and the lengthy finish develops hints of cocoa and 

clove. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. 


89 

M. Chapoutier 2010 Gigondas. Full bodied 

and densely packed, this is a solid, cellar-worthy 

Gigondas that needs time to unfold. Right now, the aromas 

are slightly reticent, the chocolate and plum notes 

only slowly unfurling on the palate. Try 2014–2020. Terlato 

Wines International. —J.C. 


88 

Les Trois Couronnes 2010 Gigondas. A 

fresh, appealing example of Gigondas, with 

mouth-watering cherry fruit that’s blissfully uncomplicated 

yet satisfying for its verve and intensity. A hint of 

cocoa sneaks in on the finish. Drink it over the next few 

years. The Other Wine & Spirits. —J.C. 


87 

Perrin & Fils 2009 La Gille (Gigondas). An 

odd, menthol note runs through this wine, giving 

the bright cherry fruit a slightly medicinal edge. It’s 

slightly creamy in texture, with a hint of chocolate on 

the warm finish. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $35 

86 

Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Gigondas. A 

bulky wine with an ample mix of cherry and 

chocolate flavors, this Gigondas is a big, fairly rich 

mouthful but is slightly lacking for nuance. Give it another 

year or two to see if more develops. Massanois 

Imports. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

HERMITAGE 

93 

Cave de Tain 2009 Gambert de Loche 

(Hermitage). For full review see page 5. 


92 

E. Guigal 2006 Hermitage. This is the current 

release from Guigal, which makes it one 

of the few Hermitages on store shelves that’s ready to 

drink. It’s medium to full in weight, chunky and assertive, 

but not overly concentrated or tannic. Instead, it 

delivers beefy notes of coffee, black olive and spice, 

backed by hints of raspberries and cedar. Vintus LLC. 

—J.C. 


SAINT-JOSEPH 

90 

Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Archevêques 

(Saint-Joseph). This négociant’s top cuvée of 

Saint-Joseph has vibrant mixed berry notes that pick up 

lovely hints of licorice and garrigue, then turn chocolaty 

and velvety on the finish. Nicely done all the way 

around, with a drinking window extending from now 

through 2017. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $42 

89 

La Ferme des Sept Lunes 2009 Saint- 

Joseph. A very drinkable Saint-Joseph, with 

bouncy, bright berry character and hints of smoke and 

asphalt. It’s medium bodied and crisp, with only a touch 

of silky-textured tannin. Domaine Select Wine Estates. 

—J.C. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $50 

88 

Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Saint-Joseph. 

This négociant bottling delivers reasonably 

fresh fruit and plenty of ripe raspberry flavor. It’s medium 

to full in body, with supple tannins that make it 

easy to drink now. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. 


86 

Les Vins de Vienne 2009 L’Arzelle (Saint- 

Joseph). A solid example of Saint-Joseph, with 

dark notes of asphalt and black olive playing alongside 

modest berry flavors. It’s medium bodied and smooth in 

texture, with a mouth-watering finish. Domaine Select 

Wine Estates. —J.C. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $28 

85 

Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Saint-Joseph. 

Round and silky, this is a medium-bodied Saint- 


Joseph intended for early enjoyment. Blackberry and 

dusty earth shadings mingle easily on the palate, fading 

just a bit quickly on the finish. Domaine Select Wine 

Estates. —J.C. 


VACQUEYRAS 

90 

Vignobles La Coterie 2010 Vacqueyras. 

Full-bodied and muscular without being overblown, 

this wine showcases slightly lifted, plummy fruit, 

accented by licorice and black pepper. It’s a bit warm on 

the finish but spicy and nuanced as well. Drink now– 

2020. Cordon Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 


89 

Gabriel Meffre 2009 Saint-Barthélémy 

(Vacqueyras). For a Vacqueyras, this is rather 

charming and supple, with slightly jammy black-cherry 

notes balanced by mouth-watering acidity. Hints of 

leather and anise add a welcome note of complexity. 

Drink it over the next few years. Gabriel Meffre America. 

—J.C. 


88 

Les Vins de Vienne 2009 La Sillote (Vacqueyras). 

Combine prune, leather and spice 

notes with firm tannins and the result is a slightly rustic, 

old-school expression of Vacqueyras. It’s concentrated 

and characterful, with up to a decade of aging potential. 



87 

Andrieux & Fils 2010 Cuvée André Vieilles 

Vignes (Vacqueyras). Buoyed by pleasant 

black-plum fruit and healthy doses of licorice and 

peppery spice, this sturdy, medium-bodied wine may 

lack a little charm but ticks all the other boxes, ending 

long and balanced. Drink now–2018. Vinum Distribution 

Inc. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $21 

86 

Les Trois Couronnes 2010 (Vacqueyras). 

Modest leather, spice and black plum notes lead 

into a wine that’s plump and dark fruited, not especially 

complex, but mouthfilling. The acids seem a touch low, 

so consume this soft, charming wine over the next few 

years. The Other Wine & Spirits. —J.C. 



93 

Chêne Bleu 2006 Abélard (Vin de Pays de 

Vaucluse). From a new winery that’s bottleaging 

its wines prior to release, this is a blend of 80% 

Grenache and 20% Syrah. Because the vineyards 

straddle multiple appellations, it carries a modest Vin 

de Pays de Vaucluse label, but this is serious stuff. It’s 

dense and creamy in texture, with a long, velvety finish 

and flavors of chocolate, black olive and dark plum. 

Drink now–2020. Margerum Wine Co. —J.C. 

abv: 15% Price: $100 

91 

Chêne Bleu 2006 Héloïse (Vin de Pays 

de Vaucluse). The blend of this Chêne Bleu 

wine is 65% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 5% Viognier, 

and with its elevated proportion of Syrah come bacony, 


mocha and olivaceous components reminiscent of the 

Northern Rhône. It’s full bodied, warm and velvety, 

with a long finish filled with chocolaty richness. Ready 

to drink. Margerum Wine Co. —J.C. 

abv: 15% Price: $100 

91 

Guillaume Gros 2009 El Niño Loco (Vin 

de Pays de la Méditerranée). The blend is 

70% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 10% Carignan, and in 

2009 the grapes were as ripe as they could be. Mocha 

and chocolate notes pick up a touch of prune. With its 

superripe fruit, ample weight, lush texture and warm 

finish, there are valid concerns about its ageability, but 

this offers hedonistic drinking for an affordable price. 

Sherbrooke Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $17 

89 

Bourgeois Family 2009 Elicio Merlot-Grenache 

(Vin de Pays de la Méditerranée). 


abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

OTHER FRANCE 

LANGUEDOC WHITES 

90 

Domaine de Malavieille 2010 Charmille 

(Pays d’Oc). This is straw colored with a 

bright hue. Passion fruit, guava, honey, hazelnut and 

glue surface on the moderately aromatic nose. Crisp despite 

its full-bodied palate, the wine’s alcohol is generous 

but well-balanced. The attack is resolutely dry and 

creates a pleasant and lightly rugged texture across the 

midpalate. The medium finish has well-concentrated 

fruit and a hazelnut undertone, suggesting a fine effort. 

Hand Picked Selections. —W.E. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $17 

88 

Les Caves Richemer 2011 Terre et Mer 

Terret Blanc (Vin de Pays des Côtes de 

Thau). The restrained nose shows a faint floral character 

accompanied by notes of lemon cream and mineral. 

The palate hesitantly opens up a bit more with flavors 

of peach skin, lemon icebox pie and whipping cream. 

Decidedly medium in weight, this has medium-concentrated 

fruit and a rather linear palate. The moderate, 

refreshing acidity leads to a fairly short finish. Drink this 

now and for two years, as it should be appreciated while 

still youthful. AHD Vintners. —W.E. 


84 

Vignobles Garrigae 2010 Seigneurie de 

Peyrat Tradition Chardonnay-Viognier 

(Pays d’Oc). Vanilla and toasted almond aromas 

evolve into a scent of tarte tatin. Full bodied, with warm 

alcohol, this shows medium fruit concentration. The 

acidity is borderline in its balance, leaning to flabiness. 

The tactile heat on the medium finish is distracting. Palateur 

Imports. —W.E. 



90 

Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Taburnum Viognier 

(Vin de France). This full-bodied, lushly 

textured wine is 100% Viognier. Despite being aged 

nearly a year and a half in French oak, it retains a peppery 

aroma of nasturtium blossom along with toast and 

honey notes. Toasted nuts figure prominently on the 

palate, with just enough fruit weight to support the oak, 

while a touch of honey lingers on the finish. Drink now. 


abv: 13.5% Price: $65 

86 

Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa Grand Cap 

(Vin de France). Made from a typical Gascon 

blend of Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng, 

this zesty wine is dry, herbaceous, fresh and crisp. 

Its full of citrus and green apple fruits, with a tangy finish. 

Screwcap. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. 



85 

Guy Saget 2011 La Petite Perrière Sauvignon 

Blanc (Vin de France). This is refreshing, 

with herbaceous hints as well as a warm yellow-fruit 

character. It’s ripe, full of youthful fruitiness and ready 

to drink. Screwcap. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $13 

85 

L. Tramier et Fils 2011 Bourricot Chardonnay 

(Vin de France). Fresh and fruity 

with creamy green and white fruits, this is a soft, ready 

to drink Chardonnay. Attractively fruity, the acidity finely 

cuts through the wine. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. 


ROSÉS 

86 

L. Tramier et Fils NV Bourricot Rosé (Vin 

de France). For full review see page 12. Best 

Buy. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $10 

85 

Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa La Vie en 

Rosé (Vin de France). This is a crisply fruity 

dry rosé from the vineyards of Fronton. It has raspberry 

and citrus flavors and refreshing acidity. The finish is 

light and fresh. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. 


abv: 12.5% Price: $10 

LANGUEDOC REDS 

93 

Prieuré St. Jean de Bébian 2008 Coteaux 

du Languedoc. Open and primal on nose, this 

has notes of game, roasted meat, lead pencil, green bell 

pepper and blackberry. It offers succulent fruit on the 

midpalate, accompanied by generous viscosity and oak. 

The wine sits broadly across the palate with significant 

heft, chewy tannins and moderate acidity. The harmony 

of flavors and structure lingers onto the lengthy finish. 

Wine Worldwide. —W.E. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $15 

91 

Vignobles Sarrail 2011 Domaine 

L’Estagnère (Vin de Pays Cité de Carcassonne). 

Aromas of mulberry, boysenberry, underbrush 

and dried lavendar lead to notes of black currant, dried 

herb and crushed granite on the palate. It possesses a 

smooth mouthfeel with succulent glycerol, balancing 

acidity and lightly grainy tannins. Moderate in length, 

with savory and mineral qualities lingering, this will

evolve over the next 2–3 years and may hold longer. JF 

Wine Imports. —W.E. 


90 

Château Saint Baulery 2010 Saint-Chinian. 

The nose is loaded with mineral, pencil lead 

and blackberry notes. Generously juicy on the palate, 

this exudes youthful fruit backed by terroir-influenced 

notes. The tannins are structured and lightly sinewy yet 

soft all at once. The acidity is fresh, carrying the wellconcentrated 

flavors of this chunky wine into a medium 

finish. This is a decidedly Old World in style, with evident 

fruit purity and provenance of place. Drink now 

and for three more years. Hand Picked Selections. 

—W.E. 


90 

Domaine Modat 2009 Sans Plus Attendre 

(Côtes du Roussillon Villages Caramany). 

This has a somewhat high-toned and mineraldriven 

nose, offering notes of roasted squab and pheasant, 

sage and mocha ice cream. Spirituous alcohol and 

opulent fruit are the focus of the highly extracted palate. 

The acidity is present but relegated to the background, 

while the rather supple, mouth-coating tannins provide 

most of the wine’s structure. The new oak is subtle. 

Drink now and for four more years. Romano Brands. 

—W.E. 


89 

Domain La Tour Penedesses 2010 Les 

Volcans (Coteaux du Languedoc-Pézenas). 

The youthful nose is primed with black currant, 

blueberry, earth and licorice. Generous and supple 

on the palate with restrained acidity, the tannins show 

some sinew, yet they are well-integrated. It’s fullbodied, 

with slightly spirituous alcohol, however, the excellent 

concentration on the palate can support this. Overall, 

the wine is well knit, including its inflections of baked 

cobbler and vanilla bean from the oak aging. Drink now 

and for five more years. Dionysos Imports Inc. —W.E. 


88 

Les Deux Rives 2010 Rouge (Corbières). 

The bright nose leads with aromas of crushed 

granite, damp forest floor and baked boysenberry cobbler 

drizzled with cassis liqueur. This is medium-bodied, 

with integrated alcohol and very little glycerol. This 

robust red has focused acidity and pleasantly tugging, 

broad tannins. Squeaky-clean fruit and smart winemaking 

make this a curiously rambunctious yet polished 

wine. Pasternak Wine Imports. Best Buy. —W.E. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

86 

Domaine Combe Blanche 2009 La Chandelière 

(Minervois La Liviniere). The nose 

has subtle notes of game, iodine, lavender and blackberry, 

which follow through oto the palate. Suave and supple 

tannins pair with medium acidity and evident glycerol, 

making this an easy-drinking red. It has integrated 

yet high alcohol, and the short finish points to a drinking 

window of two years. Roberts Fine Wines. —W.E. 


85 

G. Moulinier 2007 Les Sigillaires (Saint- 

Chinian). Notes of crushed leaves, leather and 

tobacco leaves on the overt nose indicate the first signs 

of evolution, with aromas of mulberry, black cherry and 

black raspberry also evident. Full bodied with balanced 

alcohol and lightly dusty tannins, the wine overcompensates 

in structure with its lightly tart acidity. Already 

evolving, this will drink now and up to 2–3 years longer. 

Laurel Importers. —W.E. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

83 

Les Celliers Jean d’Alibert 2010 Domaine 

de l’Estagnol (Minervois). Milk chocolate, 

mocha, garrigue and mineral notes contribute to the 

fragrant nose. Full bodied with pronounced alcohol, the 

wine is surprisingly lacking in concentation on the midpalate. 

The tannins are round and easy, and the acidity 

is supporting, finishing short. Laville Imports. —W.E. 


83 

Moulin de Lène 2010 Alphonse (Côtes 

de Thongue). The fresh but restrained nose 

shows notes of pencil lead, damp earth, roasted game 

and prune. The flavors follow suit but evidence fatigue 

rather than freshness on the palate. The medium body 

pivots around the wine’s marked acidity and dusty tannins. 

Cannon Wines Limited. —W.E. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $10 

82 

Moulin de Lène 2010 Romanus (Côtes 

de Thongue). The closed nose slips by a sunbaked 

blueberry character, with notes of garrigue, mineral 

and cherry cough syrup. Ribena candy, black licorice 

and evergreen surface on the palate. It has fleshy, 

fresh fruit, with finessed but somewhat coarse tannins 

and pronounced but reasonable alcohol. Cannon Wines 

Limited. —W.E. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 


84 

Barton & Guestier 2011 Bistro Pinot Noir 

(Ile de Beauté). Soft and fruity with some 

sweetness, this red-fruit-flavored wine is rounded and 

warm, crispened by acidity. Barton & Guestier USA. 



84 

L. Tramier et Fils 2010 Bourricot Pinot 

Noir (Vin de France). This is a soft, gentle 

Pinot with a plum jelly flavor derived from a touch of 

sweetness in its fruit. Drink now. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $12 

TUSCANY 

WHITE WINES 

92 

Monteverro 2009 Monteverro Chardonnay 

(Toscana). This creamy Tuscan Chardonnay 

shares many characteristics with its distant cousin in 

California. It shows a decidedly New World style, with 

aromas of vanilla cream, dried apricot, honey, peach 

cobbler and crème brûlée. The finish is marked with a 

spicy toasted-oak intensity. Opici Wines. —M.L. 

abv: 14% Price: $120 

90 

Castello Banfi 2011 Fontanelle Chardonnay 

(Toscana). Castello Banfi in Tuscany does 

a great job with Chardonnay, as evidenced by this wine. 

It’s rich and soft, with bright aromas of peach, citrus, 

vanilla and savory herb. A pinch of acidity on the finish 

works beautifully as well. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $19 

88 

Diadema 2011 D’Amare (Toscana). 

D’Amare is a rich blend of Chardonnay and 

Viognier, offering a thick, viscous mouthfeel and bright 

notes of apricot, pear, pineapple and exotic fruit. It 

shows fine density and a creamy finish. Superior Wine 

Selections. —M.L. 


88 

Fattoria Lavacchio 2010 Pachàr (Toscana). 

Pachàr is a blend of organically farmed 

Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon that offers bright 

aromas of citrus, peach, pineapple and blanched almond. 

Pair this pretty wine with rice-stuffed zucchini 

or tomatoes. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $30 

88 

Monteverro 2011 Il Nostro Vermentino 

(Toscana). Very crisp, clean and polished, this 

is an easy white wine to enjoy with friends and grilled 

fish. It’s redolent of cut grass, citrus, peach and white 

almond. Opici Wines. —M.L. 


88 

Rocca di Montemassi 2011 Astraio Viognier 

(Maremma). Hats off to the Zonin family 

for being among the first to offer a Viognier from 

southern Tuscany. This shows the thick viscosity that is 

characteristic of the variety, with floral notes of violets 

and lemon blossoms. There’s a dusty touch of mineral or 

brimstone on the finish. Zonin USA. Editors’ Choice. 

—M.L. 


88 

Sada 2011 Vermentino (Toscana). Handsome 

in packaging and content, this fresh Vermentino 

shows wonderful lightness, with notes of honey, 

yellow rose, stone fruit, pear and dried hay. Pure 

honey is the primary flavor on the finish. ID Beverage 

Group. —M.L. 


87 

Banfi 2011 Centine Bianco (Toscana). 

This Tuscan blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay 

and Pinot Grigio opens with crisp, almost tart, 

tones of citrus, exotic fruit and honeydew. The wine 

shows substance in the mouth and enough heft to pair 

with tuna or chicken salad. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. 

—M.L. 


87 

Carpineto 2011 Dogajolo White (Toscana). 

A great value wine, this blend of Chardonnay, 

Grechetto and Sauvignon shows easy freshness 

and bright aromas of stone fruit, lemon zest, honeydew 

and peach. Opici Wines. Best Buy. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $12 

87 

Castello Banfi 2011 San Angelo Pinot 

Grigio (Toscana). Pinot Grigio enthusiasts 

will love this citrusy expression from Tuscany. There’s 

just enough warm-climate ripeness here to give the 

wine a full, creamy feel on the finish, yet the bouquet 


is all about freshness; notes of lemon-lime, melon and 

white peach are prominent. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. 


87 

Castello d’Albola 2011 Poggio alle Fate 

Chardonnay (Toscana). From one of the 

most beautiful estates in Radda-in-Chianti, this pretty 

Chardonnay offers layers of ripe peach, apricot, vanilla 

cream and spice. Zonin USA. —M.L. 


87 

Col d’Orcia 2011 Pinot Grigio 

(Sant’Antimo). From the Sant’Antimo appellation 

in southern Tuscany (near Montalcino), this zesty 

Pinot Grigio shows the richness and fullness you usually 

find in Tuscan whites. Generous tones of melon, yellow 

rose and apricot are followed by bright acidity. Palm Bay 

International. —M.L. 


87 

Fattoria Lavacchio 2011 Bianco del Mulino 

(Toscana). Made with organically farmed 

Trebbiano and Traminer Aromatico, this offers floral 

aromas and fragrant fruit tones, with nice crispness and 

medium intensity. Pair this with fried shrimp or spicy 

Thai food. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $15 

87 

Fattoria Le Pupille 2011 Poggio Argentato 

(Toscana). This is a memorable blend 

of Sauvignon and Traminer that opens with the bright, 

floral aromas associated with these fragrant varieties. 

It’s light, crisp and lively, with a zesty, clean finish. 

Winebow. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $20 

87 

La Calonica 2011 Don Giovanni Sauvignon 

(Cortona). Don Giovanni seduces with 

bright aromas of Granny Smith apple, citrus, kiwi and 

exotic fruit. There’s a touch of soft sweetness in the 

mouth, with bright fruit flavors on the finish. Panebianco. 

—M.L. 


87 

La Corsa 2011 Dueluglio Vermentino 

(Tos cana). Made near the coastal town of Orbetello 

in Tuscany, this bright white opens with tones 

of citrus, stone fruit, cut grass and crushed almond. 

There’s a pretty dry note that recalls the sea salt and 

the shoreside breezes of the Mediterranean. Colline 

d’Italia. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $20 

87 

Pieve Vecchia 2011 Campo del Noce Vermentino 

(Montecucco). Aged in stainless 

steel to maintain its freshness and fruitiness, this bright 

Vermentino opens with zesty tones of lime, grapefruit, 

dried sage and Golden Delicious apple. Supreme Wines 

& Spirits. —M.L. 


87 

Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Occhio a Vento 

Vermentino (Maremma). Occhio a Vento, 

which means “eye to the wind,” is an affordable, easydrinking 

Vermentino that shows very crisp aromas of 

cut grass, kiwi, citrus, green apple and peach. There’s 


a nice touch of mineral dryness on the finish. Palm Bay 



86 

La Selva 2011 Vermentino (Maremma). 

Made with organically farmed grapes, this vino 

naturale opens with bright aromas of citrus, hay, cut 

grass and grapefruit. The wine shows a lean, compact 

feel in the mouth, with bright acidity on the finish. Euro 

Fine Wines. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

86 

Pieve Vecchia 2011 Le Zere (Maremma). 

A fresh blend of Fiano and Chardonnay, Le 

Zere is redolent of lemon zest, pineapple, Golden Delicious 

apple and even a touch of banana. It’s a perfect 

match to barbecued shrimp. Supreme Wines & Spirits. 

—M.L. 


86 

Tamburini 2011 Il Castelluccio (Toscana). 

Il Castelluccio is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia, 

bearing fragrant aromas of lemon blossom, grapefruit 

and exotic fruit. The wine feels thick and sticky on 

the palate, with a soft, chewy finish. Best Value Wine 

Group. —M.L. 


85 

Banfi 2011 Le Rime White (Toscana). Le 

Rime is a very simple blend of Chardonnay and 

Pinot Grigio that would go down nicely with tuna salad 

or grilled vegetables. Lean and compact, it offers 

bright citrus, pear and stone fruit aromas. Banfi Vintners. 

—M.L. 


85 

Banfi 2010 Le Rime Pinot Grigio (Toscana). 

Food friendly, informal and bright, this 

easy-drinking Pinot Grigio opens with bright citrus, 

stone fruit and melon. There’s a touch of white almond 

paste on the close that recalls the warm Tuscan sunshine. 

Banfi Vintners. —M.L. 


85 

Principe Corsini - Fattoria Le Corti 2011 

Vermentino della Costa (Maremma). 

Packaged with an appropriate nautical theme, this 

bright Vermentino from coastal Tuscany offers easy aromas 

of citrus, peach, pear and grapefruit. There’s a crisp 

touch of spice and dried sage on the close. —M.L. 


85 

Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Vernaccia di San 

Gimignano. This is the kind of easy Italian 

white that would taste delicious at an outdoor barbecue 

or on a hot afternoon. The wine is light, lean and loaded 

with fresh citrus flavors. Palm Bay International. Best 

Buy. —M.L. 


85 

Tommasi 2011 Poggio al Tufo Vermentino 

(Maremma). Easy, fresh and simple, this 

opens with aromas of dried hay, stone fruit and honey, 

offering a thick, creamy feel on the palate. There’s a 

touch of fruit on the close. Vintus LLC. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $15 

ROSÉS 

88 

Fattoria Le Pupille 2011 RosaMati Rosé 

(Maremma). A beautiful blend of Sangiovese 

and Syrah, this delivers structure and power wrapped 

within delicate notes of wild berry, bitter almond, dried 

blueberry and chopped herb. The close is thickly structured 

and fresh. Winebow. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

87 

Carpineto 2011 Dogajolo Rosé (Toscana). 

A whole new generation of Italian rosé 

is finally gaining the attention it deserves. This is an exceptionally 

fresh and clean wine that would pair with 

smoked salmon, fish carpaccio or insalata di mare. Opici 

Wines. Best Buy. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $12 

86 

Banfi 2011 Centine Rosé (Toscana). This 

opens with a light pink color, exhibiting lively 

aromas of raspberry, cranberry and pink grapefruit. The 

wine is slender and easy on the finish, with a final zestycitrus 

blast. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. 


CHIANTI CLASSICO 

92 

Mazzei 2007 Ser Lapo Riserva (Chianti 

Classico). This is a full and generous wine 

(90% Sangiovese with 10% Merlot) that lavishes on rich 

layers of red cherry, soft chocolate, tobacco and spice. 

You taste the pureness of the black fruit in the mouth 

and are treated to a rich, velvety finish. Palm Bay International. 

—M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $30 

92 

Ruffino 2007 Riserva Ducale Oro (Chianti 

Classico). This special commemorative 

bottle celebrates the 60th anniversary (1947–2007) of 

one of Italy’s flagship wines. The characteristic aromas 

of Sangiovese come through loud and clear in the form 

of bright pulses of wild berry, blue flower, light spice 

and dried tobacco. The wine is bright and tight on the 

finish. Hold this bottle in your cellar. Icon Estates. Cellar 

Selection. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $40 

91 

Castelli del Grevepesa 2008 Castello di 

Bibbione Riserva (Chianti Classico). Opulent 

and rich, this expression of Sangiovese shows a 

dark, inky color, with plush aromas of black fruit, chocolate, 

spice, leather, pipe tobacco and roasted espresso 

bean. The mouthfeel is dense and creamy, and the wine 

boasts very pleasurable qualities. Duggan’s Distillers. 

—M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $28 

91 

Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Riserva di Fizzano 

(Chianti Classico). Made in a very respectable 

Chianti Classico style, the wine delivers freshness, 

with tart berry notes and a bright, streamlined 

feel. Medallions of veal, grilled sausage or roast chicken 

would all pair nicely with this Sangiovese-based wine 

(with small percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and 

Merlot). Palm Bay International. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 


(Chianti Classico). Riserva di Fizzano 

is always an impressive wine, and the 2007 vintage has 

produced an especially generous, soft and rich bottling. 

It delivers aromas of bright cherry, soft spice, chocolate, 

pipe tobacco and a pretty flower accent at the back. It 

would pair with pork roasted with fennel seed and garlic. 

Palm Bay International. —M.L. 


90 

Castelli del Grevepesa 2008 Clemente 

VII Riserva (Chianti Classico). This opens 

with characteristic aromas of wild berry, wet earth, 

white truffle and roasted coffee bean. It feels rich and 

concentrated in the mouth, but never heavy or sticky. 

Duggan’s Distillers . —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $26 

90 

Castelli del Grevepesa 2007 Panzano 

(Chianti Classico). Panzano is one of the 

most prestigious subzones in Chianti Classico, and this 

bright wine does a great job of showing true Tuscan 

characteristics. Sangiovese’s trademark freshness is evident 

here as are its characteristic aromas of wild berry, 

cherry, leather and cured meat. Duggan’s Distillers. 

—M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $28 

90 

Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Riserva Famiglia 

Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). This Chianti 

Classico Riserva has deep layers of spice, chocolate, 

wild berry, cherry, licorice and black pepper. The 

mouthfeel is smooth, long and fresh. Palm Bay International. 

—M.L. 


90 


(Chianti Classico). For full review see 

page 9. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $30 

90 

Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Riserva Famiglia 

Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). Sangiovese is 

enhanced with tiny percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon 

and Merlot to create a fresh, balanced wine, with aromas 

of red fruit and savory spice. The mouthfeel is soft 

and rich with good structure and fullness. Palm Bay International. 

—M.L. 


89 

Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Tenuta 

Sant’Alfonso (Chianti Classico). What sets 

this wine apart is the elegant intensity that distinguishes 

the bouquet. Notes of wild berries, coffee, leather, 

wet earth and pressed violets appear throughout. In the 

mouth, it has crisp cherry tones and bright acidity. Palm 

Bay International. —M.L. 


89 

Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Tenuta 

Sant’Alfonso (Chianti Classico). This is a 

pure expression of Sangiovese. The grapes clearly benefited 

from the strong Tuscan sun, lending the wine a 

soft, velvety feel, with balanced acidity and freshness. 

Careful oak aging adds spice and richness. Palm Bay International. 

—M.L. 


88 

Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Famiglia 

Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). A classic pasta 

wine (probably best with fettuccine in meat sauce), this 

Chianti Classico offers bright acidity and a bouquet redolent 

of wild berries, cherries, leather and subtle spices. 


abv: 13.5% Price: $17 

88 

Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Famiglia 

Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). Youthful and 

bright, this shows the lean, bright side of the Famiglia 

Zingarelli line. You can really taste those Sangiovese 

characteristics thanks to lively tones of wild berry, 

raspberry, blue flower, wild mushroom and subtle spice. 

That zesty acidity makes the wine perfect for cheesy 

pasta or lasagna. Palm Bay International. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $17 

87 

Carpineto 2010 Chianti Classico. Executed 

in a streamlined and traditional fashion, this 

ruby-colored wine shows tart acidity and bright fruit flavors 

of wild berry and blueberry. Medium bodied, this 

would pair beautifully with lamb or pork chops. Opici 

Wines. —M.L. 


87 


VII (Chianti Classico). Dark and savory, this 

has spicy aromas of clove, cinnamon, prune and red 

currant. It shows freshness and medium density overall. 

Duggan’s Distillers. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

87 

Straccali 2010 Chianti Classico. Enhanced 

with tiny percentages of Merlot and Canaiolo, 

this Sangiovese-dominant wine shows sweet cherry and 

blueberry aromas, with pretty accents of exotic spice 

and toasted almond. Pair this with fried chicken or 

cotoletta alla Milanese. Palm Bay International. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $14 

CHIANTI 

85 

Piccini 2011 Chianti. For full review see 



85 

Piccini 2010 Chianti. Piccini shows confidence 

and consistency with this best-selling 

value wine. Easy aromas of wild berry, blue violet and 

moist earth reveal its Tuscan soul. Aveniù Brands, Inc. 

Best Buy. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

85 

Straccali 2011 Chianti. Easy, slender and 

fresh, this bright Chianti (85% Sangiovese with 

Merlot) reveals green notes of olive and herb followed 

by wild berry and spice. Palm Bay International. —M.L. 


85 

Straccali 2010 Chianti. This blend of Sangiovese 

and Canaiolo is enhanced with a small 

percentage of Merlot. That addition heightens the 

wine’s softness and renders a richer mouthfeel. Palm 

Bay International. —M.L. 


BRUNELLO DI 

MONTALCINO 

94 

Biondi-Santi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di 

Montalcino). Biondi-Santi performs exceptionally 

well in elegant vintages like 2006. This wine is 

balanced and fresh, with lingering notes of wild berry, 

white cherry, cola, spice and dark chocolate. Age this 

wine 10 years or more. Vision Wine & Spirits. Cellar 


abv: 13.5% Price: $900 

93 

Biondi-Santi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. 

An iconic wine of Italy and deservedly so, 

Biondi-Santi captures the spirit of the 2007 vintage with 

his clear fruit interpretations of red cherry, blackberry 

and cassis. The wine shows power, structure and fresh 

acidity that drives the long finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. 

Cellar Selection. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $180 

93 

Querceta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). 

Compared to its basic Brunello, 

Querceta ups the ante with this Riserva in terms of intensity 

and overall power. Bold notes of cherry, spice 

and leather make an appearance in this fresh and firmly 

structured offering. Novo Mexican Spirits. —M.L. 


92 

Pietroso 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. 

This ruby-colored Brunello opens with notes 

of fresh fruit, forest floor, cedar wood, exotic spice and 

blackberry preserves. It shows a bright berry mouthfeel, 

with cherry intensity and a clean, fresh finish. Enotria 

Wine Import. —M.L. 


92 

Querceta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. 

Querceta delivers a beautiful Brunello with 

bold tones of ripe fruit, red cherry, spice, leather and 

vanilla bean. This bold red offers both structure and 

fresh acidity on the finish. Novo Mexican Spirits. —M.L. 


90 

Domus Vitae 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. 

The 2007 vintage in Montalcino has 

produced beautifully rich and balanced wines. This 

pretty expression boats aromas of wild berry, dried ginger, 

leather, tobacco and a touch of espresso. There’s a 

bright point of acidity on the close followed by a firm 

tannic structure. Superior Wine Selections. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $55 

MAREMMA 

88 

Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Maremma Toscana). Tommasi 

is a celebrated producer based in Valpolicella, but in 

recent years the family has invested heavily in Maremma, 

Tuscany, to produce a solid line of value-driven 

wines from the region. This shows the darkness and 

ripeness of this sunny region backed by Cabernet Sauvignon’s 

structure. Vintus LLC. —M.L. 


87 

Tommasi 2010 Poggio al Tufo Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Maremma Toscana). Here’s a 


no-fuss Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany that delivers 

layers of black cherry, spice, leather and dried tobacco. 

The intensity is measured and the mouthfeel is medium 

in intensity, but the general ease and approach is what 

sets this wine apart. Vintus LLC. —M.L. 


87 

Tommasi 2010 Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo 

(Maremma Toscana). A bright and 

easy blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, this 

would taste great with grilled sausage or barbecued 

chicken. A vein of fresh acidity is followed by notes of 

black cherry, dried raspberry and mild spice. Vintus 

LLC. —M.L. 


87 

Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Alicante 

(Maremma Toscana). Notes of dried eucalyptus 

leaf, sage, savory spice and wild berry give this 

Tuscan red a very unique aromatic profile. The spicy 

notes continue onto the palate, showing structure and 

length. Made from 100% Alicante Bouschet. Vintus 

LLC. —M.L. 


87 

Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo 

(Maremma Toscana). This blend of Sangiovese 

and Cabernet Sauvignon opens with slightly green 

accents of bay leaf and dried sage followed by black 

fruit, cherry and tobacco. The mouthfeel is smooth and 

simple. Pair it with easy meat dishes or aged cheese. 

Vintus LLC. —M.L. 


86 

Tommasi 2008 Poggio al Tufo Alicante 

(Maremma Toscana). Velvety aromas of ripe 

fruit, dried herb and cured meat give this Alicante a savory, 

spicy feel. The wine delivers medium body and 

intensity and would pair with meatloaf or white meat. 

Vintus LLC. —M.L. 


TOSCANA 

93 

Tenuta di Biserno 2007 Il Pino di Biserno 

(Toscana). For full review see page 5. Cellar 

Selection. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $80 

92 

Castellare di Castellina 2007 Coniale 

(Tos cana). Coniale is a pure expression of 

Cabernet Sauvignon, bearing classy Tuscan characteristics 

of blackberry, dried Mediterranean brush, rosemary, 

chocolate, leather and tobacco, with a touch of 

black olive in the background. The mouthfeel is rich, 

persistent and soft. Winebow. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $45 

92 

Petra 2008 Petra (Toscana). From one of 

Italy’s most important showcase designer wineries, 

this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot lives 

up to its super Tuscan celebrity. It is gently redolent of 

dark chocolate, ripe fruit, leather, tobacco and crushed 

black pepper—the bouquet’s elegant moderation is one 

of its strongest points. The mouthfeel is rich, creamy 


and long. Drink after 2018. Terra Moretti Trading. Cellar 


abv: 14.5% Price: $80 

92 

Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Roccato (Toscana). 

For full review see page 7. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $60 

92 




91 

Castello Banfi 2009 Cum Laude (Toscana). 

This blend of Cabernet, Merlot and 

Syrah shows a decadently soft side thanks to its aromas 

of black cherry, tobacco, chocolate and subtle spice. It 

delivers density and substance on the finish and would 

pair with pasta and creamy porcini sauce. Banfi Vintners. 

—M.L. 


91 

Piccini 2007 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana). 

For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. 


91 

Renieri 2007 Regina di Renieri (Toscana). 

This is a pure expression of Syrah that shows 

rich aromas of ripe fruit, leather, tobacco, crushed black 

pepper and blackberry. The finish is long and smooth. 

Pair this with steak in a creamy green-pepper sauce. 

Michelangelo Imports. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $30 

91 


Ser Gioveto is 80% Sangiovese with 

small additions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It 

has a deeply saturated ruby color and compelling aromas 

of ripe fruit, strawberry, rum cake and soft spice. 

There’s a jammy accent in the bouquet that gives momentum 

to its rich, velvety mouthfeel. Palm Bay International. 

—M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $50 

91 

Ruffino 2008 Modus (Toscana). Modus delivers 

velvety aromas of black cherry, chocolate, 

leather, exotic spice and pipe tobacco. This super Tuscan 

blend is comprised of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon 

and Merlot, and it does a very nice job of showing 

the soft side of those grape varieties, especially on the 

long finish. Icon Estates. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $25 

90 


VII Settimo (Toscana). A blend of Sangiovese, 

Merlot and Syrah, this opens with plush layers of 

black fruit, tobacco, chocolate and crushed black pepper. 

Full, ripe and modern, this has lingering notes of 

exotic spice and toasted nut on the finish. Duggan’s Distillers. 

—M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $30 

88 

I Giusti e Zanza 2009 Nemorino (Toscana). 

Dark in color and slightly bashful at 

first, this blend of Syrah, Sangiovese and Merlot shows 

strength in its solid structure, with bright aromas of red 

cherry, blackberry, leather and cured meat. It would 

pair perfectly with stewed game meat, like wild boar. 

Vindagra USA. —M.L. 


87 

Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Rubizzo (Toscana). 

A blend of Sangiovese and a tiny percent 

of Merlot, this opens with concentrated fruit and 

warm climate aromas of blackberry jam and cherry 

preserves. Palm Bay International. —M.L. 



92 

Carpineto 2006 Riserva (Vino Nobile di 

Montepulciano). Carpineto’s Vino Nobile 

Riserva is almost too much of a good thing with its rich 

density, bold intensity and big aromas of ripe blackberry, 

leather, exotic spice and tobacco. It has smooth texture 

and polished tannins as well. Age 10 years or more. 

Opici Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $32 

88 

Querceta 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This 

pretty Rosso offers sweet berry and raspberry 

aromas, with slight touches of toasted almond and 

spice. The finish is fresh and crisp. Novo Mexican Spirits. 

—M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $16 

87 

Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Campomaccione 

(Morellino di Scansano). Bright and 

lively, with cherry and blueberry nuances, this would 

pair well with pizzas or simple cheeseburgers. It delivers 

loads of fresh berry intensity and soft, smooth tannins. 



87 

Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Campomaccione 

(Morellino di Scansano). Here’s a cheerful, 

bright Morellino di Scansano, with jammy fruit notes of 

blackberry and cherry. The quality of the fruit is plump 

and round, and the mouthfeel feels chewy and seemingly 

slightly sweet. Palm Bay International. —M.L. 


CENTRAL ITALY WHITES 

ORVIETO 

90 

Barberani 2009 Luigi e Giovanna (Orvieto 

Classico Superiore). This maybe the nicest 

Orvieto white on the market today. Named after the 

estate’s founders, this is enhanced with a tiny percentage 

of Grechetto Muffa Nobile (botrytized sweet wine) 

for extra softness and density. The effect is superb, offering 

loads of honey and stone fruit intensity. Vinifera 



87 

Barberani 2011 Castagnolo (Orvieto 

Classico Superiore). Here’s a fascinating 

blend of Procanico, Verdello, Grechetto, Drupeggio, 

Malvasia, Chardonnay and Riesling that offers a crisp, 

bright bouquet redolent of citrus, white flower, papaya

and peach. Pair this wine with spicy Indian food or fresh 

pasta salad. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. 


86 

Trappolini 2010 White (Orvieto). From an 

up-and-coming estate in Umbria, this blended 

white (Trebbiano, Malvasia and Grechetto) opens with 

generous aromas of ripe fruit, apricot, caramel and 

honey. The mouthfeel is thick and creamy. T. Edward 

Wines Ltd. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $14 

85 

Rocca delle Macìe 2011 White (Orvieto 

Classico). This offers tonic citrus and kiwi 

aromas followed by a thin, no-fuss mouthfeel. Simple, 

fresh and bright, it’s an easy-drinking Orvieto Classico 

that would pair with appetizers or fried finger foods. 



83 

Barberani 2011 Vi No SO2 (Orvieto Classico 

Superiore). This shows slightly volatile 

aromas of bitter almond, apple skin and apricot. Vinifera 



UMBRIA 

93 

Marchesi Antinori 2010 Cervaro della 

Sala (Umbria). From Antinori’s Castello della 

Sala estate, this landmark white helped to shine the 

spotlight on Umbria’s untapped enological potential. 

A blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto, this is smooth, 

creamy, complex and long lasting. It offers a beautiful 

bouquet of vanilla, apricot, exotic fruit and honey, with a 

subtle touch of exotic spice. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. 

Cellar Selection. —M.L. 


88 

Tabarrini NV White (Umbria). An interesting 

white, this has an off-gold color, opening with 

thick aromas of apricot, honey, Golden Delicious apple 

and pineapple. There’s a cheerful touch of zesty spice 

on the finish. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. 


87 

Lungarotti 2011 Torre di Giano (Umbria). 

Recently relabeled with an Umbria appellation 

instead of the smaller Torgiano designation, Torre 

di Giano is a celebrated wine that represents the light, 

fresh style of Italian whites. The blend is Vermentino, 

Trebbiano and Grechetto, with a bouquet that’s redolent 

of stone fruit, citrus and dried basil. Vin Divino. 

Editors’ Choice. —M.L. 


86 

Barberani 2011 Vermentino (Umbria). 

This opens with green notes of kiwi, cut grass 

and citrus and finishes with lively acidity and zest. It’s a 

fresh, easy wine that shows balance and cheerful informality. 

Vinifera Imports. —M.L. 


86 

Bigi 2010 Vipra Bianca (Umbria). Vipra 

Bianca, which means “white viper,” is a blend 

of 60% Grechetto and 40% Chardonnay. The bouquet 

offers a delicate floral aroma, with notes of lemon blos- 

som and peach. The mouthfeel is smooth, crisp and dry. 

Opici Wines. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $14 

86 

Roccafiore 2010 Bianco Fiordaliso (Umbria). 

An organic blend of 80% Grechetto and 

20% Trebbiano, this shows big structure and density. It 

almost feels like a red wine in the mouth because of the 

creamy texture and weight. The bouquet is fragrant and 

intense with citrus, honey and apricot aromas. Vintners 

Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $12 

VERDICCHIO DEI 

CASTELLI DI JESI 

90 

Umani Ronchi 2010 Casal di Serra (Verdicchio 

dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 

Superiore). This is a bright and sophisticated Verdicchio 

that would pair with the highest caliber seafood 

including shellfish and crustaceans. It is dense and 

rich, with cleansing tones of citrus, yellow flower, honey, 

dried sage and a touch of smooth vanilla. Bedford 



88 

Pievalta 2009 San Paolo Riserva (Verdicchio 

dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This 

biodynamic and organic wine from the Barone Pizzini 

wine group shows linear aromas of citrus, stone fruit 

and crushed granite. The grapes are farmed on clay and 

tufo rock soils, and these conditions seem to add to the 

general dryness and elegance of the finished wine. Vignaioli. 

—M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $25 

88 

Sartarelli 2009 Tralivio (Verdicchio dei 

Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). 

Tralivio is an impressive wine that shows surprising 

brightness and youth despite spending three years in 

the bottle. The bouquet is redolent of peach, citrus, 

honey and blanched almond. And, there’s a drying vein 

of chalky mineral or brimstone that adds an elegant 

touch. Massanois Imports. —M.L. 


88 

Sartarelli 2008 Balciana (Verdicchio dei 

Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Light 

golden in color, this has ripe aromas of stone fruit, apricot, 

honey, grapefruit and dried herb. It has freshness 

and structure, and the finish lasts for many long minutes. 

Massanois Imports. —M.L. 


88 

Umani Ronchi 2008 Plenio Riserva (Verdicchio 

dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). An 

oak-fermented Verdicchio, this has an off-gold color, 

with bright aromas of lemon candy, butterscotch, honey, 

dried apricot and pineapple. This is made in a big, 

structured style, making it appropriate for white meat or 

spicy Thai chicken. Bedford International. —M.L. 


85 

Fattoria Laila 2010 Eklektikos (Verdicchio 

dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). 

This opens with a thick bouquet, bearing candylike 

aromas of lemon soda, honey and apricot preserves. 

The finish is balanced with crisp freshness. Montecastelli 


abv: 12.5% Price: $18 

85 

Umani Ronchi 2010 Exclamation Point 

(Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). 

Distinguished by its bottle with a black label in the 

shape of a giant exclamation point, this fresh Verdicchio 

shows simple lines and lively flavors of citrus, peach, 

dried hay and stone fruit. It’s a light-bodied wine with 

tart acidity. Bedford International. Best Buy. —M.L. 


83 

Fattoria Laila 2010 Verdicchio dei Castelli 

di Jesi. Slightly oxidized at first with aromas 

of caramel and butterscotch, the wine soon opens to reveal 

apricot, honey and dried hay. It’s an easy, genuine 

wine to pair with fried onion rings. Montecastelli Selections. 

—M.L. 

abv: 11.5% Price: $12 

TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO 

92 

Masciarelli 2008 Castello di Semivicoli 

(Trebbiano d’Abruzzo). What sets this wine 

apart is its gorgeous, creamy intensity on the finish. 

Made from Trebbiano, this expression shows the qualitative 

heights this variety can achieve. Notes of vanilla 

cream, peach cobbler, dried sage and pineapple appear 

on the bouquet. The finish is long and full. Try aging 

this for five years or longer. Masciarelli Wine Co. Cellar 



87 

Masciarelli 2010 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. A 

very approachable Trebbiano, this boasts crisp 

aromas of cut grass, almond skin, honey and stone fruit. 

The finish is fresh, with a smooth, creamy texture. Masciarelli 

Wine Co. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $20 

86 

Pasetti 2011 Zarachè (Trebbiano 

d’Abruzzo). A blend of Trebbiano with a small 

percent of a little-known grape called Cococciola, this 

has a fresh bouquet with lemon zest, honey and exotic 

fruit. The wine’s easy mouthfeel makes it perfect for 

toasted crostini appetizers. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $16 

85 

Talamonti 2011 Trebì (Trebbiano 

d’Abruzzo). This is a well-priced white that 

shows Trebbiano’s easy and fresh side, with notes of cut 

grass, citrus and honey. Great for pairing with grilled 

tuna or salad. Panebianco. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $11 

COLLINE PESCARESI 

88 

Talamonti 2011 Trabocchetto Pecorino 

(Colline Pescaresi). A wonderful expression 

of Pecorino, this opens with a beautiful floral intensity 

and fresh aromas of honey, peach, apricot and yellow 

rose. There’s a drying mineral note on the finish, concluding 

with a touch of zesty spice. Panebianco. Editors’ 

Choice. —M.L. 



87 

Barba 2011 Pecorino (Colline Pescaresi). 

Pecorino is among the hottest, up-and-coming 

white varieties from Italy, and this beautiful expression 

shows a nice balance between acidity and thick density. 

The dense, creamy structure is followed by tones of 

pineapple, stone fruit, butterscotch candy and yellow 

rose. Michelangelo Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $15 

86 

Farnese 2011 Pinot Grigio (Colline Pescaresi). 

Made using organically farmed fruit, 

this fresh value white opens with bright tones of citrus 

and green apple. Pair this wine with grilled vegetables 

or curry chicken salad. Empson (USA) Ltd. Best Buy. 

—M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $11 

85 

Caldora Vini 2011 Pinot Grigio (Colline 

Pescaresi). From the Adriatic side of the Italian 

peninsula comes this fresh Pinot Grigio that would 

wash down seafood, vegetables or light appetizers. The 

wine is crisp, clean and redolent of citrus and green apple. 

Vin Divino. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $11 

85 

Cantina Zaccagnini 2011 Dal Tralcetto Pinot 

Grigio (Colline Pescaresi). The packaging 

stands out with its tiny grape cutting that’s tied to 

the bottle’s neck. This is a bright wine that’s redolent of 

lemon soda, chalky candy (like Pez) and apricot. Wines 

Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $17 

FRASCATI SUPERIORE 

88 

Principe Pallavicini 2011 Poggio Verde 

(Frascati Superiore). For full review see 

page 9. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

86 

Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2011 Saula Carta 

Bianca (Frascati Superiore). From one 

of Lazio’s most promising wineries, this white blend 

of indigenous grapes delivers a fragrant bouquet of 

peach blossom, citrus, pear and apple. The mouthfeel is 

smooth and silky, with a touch of crisp freshness on the 

finish. Saranty Imports. —M.L. 


86 

Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2011 Saula Carta 

Nera (Frascati Superiore). Fresh and easy, 

this delivers fruity aromas of Golden Delicious apple, 

apricot, honey and yellow flower. A drying mineral 

note renders a clean, polished finish. Saranty Imports. 

—M.L. 


85 

Principe Pallavicini 2011 Frascati Superiore. 

This is a cheerful white from Lazio with 

abundant aromas of white flower and honey. It’s easy 

going, slender and slightly tart on the finish. Vias Imports. 

—M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $13 



88 

Arnaldo Caprai 2011 Grecante Grechetto 

(Colli Martani). What a wonderful wine to 

pair with spaghetti alle vongole or calamari fritti. Made 

from Grechetto grapes and aged only in stainless steel, 

this is fresh, youthful, tangy and crisp, with aromas of 

citrus, kiwi, honeydew and peach. Folio Fine Wine 

Partners. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

88 

Casale del Giglio 2011 Chardonnay 

(Lazio). Produced by probaby the most popular 

brand found in the many trattorie of Rome, this 

creamy Chardonnay delivers aromas of peach, apricot 

and vanilla cream. Soilair Selection. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

88 

Falesco 2008 Ferentano Roscetto 

(Lazio). Roscetto, a little-known white grape 

from central Italy, delivers impressive structure, depth 

and intensity. As the wine sees four months of oak, this 

drinks like a red wine. Bright gold in color, this has generous 

aromas of peach, pineapple, almond, vanilla and 

spice. Winebow. —M.L. 


88 

Illuminati Dino 2011 Pecorino (Controguerra). 

Pecorino is a native variety from central 

Italy that shows a thick consistency and natural aromas 

of yellow flower, butterscotch and exotic fruit. This 

expression is exceptionally well made because it is crisp 

and dense without feeling heavy or too chewy. There’s a 

touch of tangy green herb on the finish. Montcalm Wine 

Importers. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

87 

Caldora Vini 2010 Colle dei Venti Pecorino 

(Terre di Chieti). If you haven’t already 

tried Pecorino, Colle dei Venti is a good place to start. 

This boasts loads of peach, exotic fruit, pineapple and 

pear, with a medium body, good structure and tartness. 



87 

Il Pollenza 2011 Brianello (Marche). For 

full review see page 10. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $14 

87 

Illuminati Dino 2011 Costalupo (Controguerra). 

A blend of Trebbiano, Passerina 

and Chardonnay, this offers aromas of cut grass, citrus, 

lemon zest, creamy vanilla and peach. The fresh acidity 

makes this a perfect match for crab legs and butter 

sauce. Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $12 

87 

Roccafiore 2010 Fiorfiore Grechetto 

(Todi). Made from organically farmed Grechetto 

grapes, this delivers pineapple, Golden Delicious 

apple, sweet almond and apricot. It would make the 

perfect companion to shellfish or barbecued shrimp. 

Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $19 

87 

Saladini Pilastri 2011 Offida Pecorino. 

The packaging features a cute sheep cartoon on 

the label to underline the double significance of Pecorino, 

which is the name of the grape but also means “little 

sheep.” It’s redolent of exotic fruit, apricot and white 

pepper, with a thick, soft, almost-viscous mouthfeel. 

MHW, Ltd. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

87 

Tre Monti 2011 Vigna Rocca Albana (Romagna). 

The Albana varietal is usually made 

into dessert wine, but this interesting rendition is vinified 

dry. It opens with fragrant aromas of honey, peach 

and apricot. A touch of subtle sweetness marks the finish. 

Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. 


86 

Capestrano 2011 Verdicchio di Matelica. 

There’s a distinctive element to this Verdicchio 

that resembles pressed flower, honey, apricot and fresh 

pineapple. This is crisp, easy-going and straightforward. 

Vias Imports. —M.L. 


86 

Roccafiore 2010 Bianco Fiordaliso 

Grechetto (Todi). Made using organic fruit, 

this has aromas of pineapple, apricot and candied lemon. 

There’s a sensation of stickiness on the palate that 

resembles ripe fruit and honey. Vintners Estate Direct 

Importing. —M.L. 


86 

Tre Monti 2010 Thea (Rubicone). This is 

an eccentric white with thick density and fatty 

glycerine. It’s a bold, big white with aromas of apricot, 

pear, melon and yellow rose. It drinks like a red wine. 

Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. 


85 

Capestrano 2010 Verdicchio di Matelica. 

Verdicchio is celebrated for its crisp, green aromas 

that resemble lime, kiwi and cut grass. This expression 

offers those notes, with an added touch of lemon 

candy. Vias Imports. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $15 

85 

Saladini Pilastri 2011 White (Falerio 

dei Colli Ascolani). Made with organically 

farmed fruit, this is light and easy, showing aromas of 

citrus, white flower and peach. The mouthfeel is creamy 

and slightly viscous on the finish. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. 

—M.L. 


84 

Caldora Vini 2010 Chardonnay (Terre di 

Chieti). This is a ripe Chardonnay with aromas 

of pineapple, Golden Delicious apple and honey. 

It’s slightly thick and sticky on the close. Vindino Wine. 

—M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $11 

ROSATO 

87 

Ciavolich Giuseppe 2010 Divus Rosato 

(Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cerasuolo). 

This delightful rosé offers fresh aromas of raspberry, 

citrus, cherry and blanched almond. The finish is cool

and crisp, but the wine also delivers good structure and 

length. Clyde Thomas. —M.L. 


87 

Domodimonti 2010 Piccolo Principe Rosato 

(Marche). A blend of mostly Sangiovese 

with some Cabernet Sauvignon, this fresh offering 

opens with light aromas of raspberry, white cherry, 

pressed violet and peach. Piccolo Principe has enough 

structure to stand up to white meat or shellfish. MHW, 

Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $12 

87 

Illuminati Dino 2011 Campirosa Rosato 

(Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo). Some of Italy’s best 

rosé wines come from the Abruzzo region and are made 

with the hearty, locally grown Montepulciano grape. 

This expression opens with fresh aromas of wild berry, 

white almond and dried herb. Montcalm Wine Importers. 


abv: 12.5% Price: $12 

87 

Talamonti 2011 Rosato (Cerasuolo 

d’Abruzzo). A delicious rosato made from the 

hearty Montepulciano grape, this opens with pretty aromas 

of garden flower, wild berry, dried mint and white 

almond. This is crisp, fresh and would pair with fried 

calamari rings. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L. 


86 

Barberani 2011 Rosato (Umbria). This 

food-friendly rosé has a light pink color and 

fresh aromas of peach, grapefruit and wild berry. The 

mouthfeel is soft and fresh, showing a subtle touch of 

sweetness. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. 


84 

Masciarelli 2010 Rosato (Colline Teatine). 

Packed with jammy fruit and sweet raspberry 

flavors, this easy rosé would make a great partner to 

cocktail appetizers. The finish shows flavors of wild berry 

and bitter almond. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $10 

CENTRAL ITALY REDS 

SAGRANTINO DI 

MONTEFALCO 

95 


di Montefalco). For full review see page 

3. Cellar Selection. 

abv: 15% Price: $100 

94 


di Montefalco). Vintner Marco Caprai is the 

man who has tamed the tannic, unruly beast that is Sagrantino. 

Having carefully aged for two years in oak, this 

has become deeply elegant and sophisticated. Aromas 

of chocolate, exotic spice, dark berry, leather, tobacco 

and dried prune leave a lasting impression. Age for 10 

years or more. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. 

—M.L. 

abv: 15% Price: $100 

93 

Arnaldo Caprai 2007 Collepiano (Sagrantino 

di Montefalco). The 2007 vintage 

was beautiful in Umbria, and this proves to be a stand 

out wine with enormous power, personality and depth. 

It delivers gorgeous intensity with pulses of black cherry, 

chocolate fudge, spice, leather and pipe tobacco. The 

finish is soft and rich. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar 


abv: 14.5% Price: $60 

92 

Arnaldo Caprai 2006 Collepiano (Sagrantino 

di Montefalco). A delicious expression 

of Sagrantino, this delivers soft tones of chocolate, 

exotic spice and toasted nut, lavished over a core of 

bright cherry and blackberry. The wine shows density 

and power with characteristic tannic firmness on the 

close. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $60 

91 

Moretti Omero 2005 Montefalco Sagrantino. 

What a rare and beautiful expression of 

Sagrantino. This delivers unusual tones of cola, eucalyptus, 

dried ginger, wild berry and exotic spice. The 

characteristic firm tannins and structure of Sagrantino 

appear fine and textured. Fourcade & Hecht Wine 


abv: 14.5% Price: $45 

90 

Còlpetrone 2005 Gold (Montefalco Sagrantino). 

This expression opens with deep, 

sophisticated aromas of cured meat, dried berry fruit 

and exotic spice. Hearty and rich, this has a thick, textured 

mouthfeel. You can taste the heat and sunshine of 

the 2005 vintage. Vias Imports. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $135 

90 

Lungarotti 2009 Sagrantino di Montefalco. 

This elegant Sagrantino boasts a dark, inky 

color, with aromas of blackberry, tobacco, spice, leather, 

tar and a touch of cherry cola. It shows power and 

concentration but is well balanced overall. Vin Divino. 

—M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $47 

90 

Tabarrini 2005 Colle Grimaldesco (Montefalco 

Sagrantino). There’s a bright hint of 

soft fruit or ripe cherry that takes away from the overall 

austerity of the Sagrantino grape. In the background, 

there are tones of tar, tobacco and spice. The mouthfeel 

is firmly structured and finely textured as well. Tabarrini 

USA. —M.L. 


90 

Tabarrini 2004 Colle alle Macchie (Montefalco 

Sagrantino). Dark, inky and superconcentrated, 

this masculine expression offers aromas 

of dark berry, licorice, tar, tobacco and black asphalt. 

There’s a touch of mineral dryness in the mouth, with 

loads of heat and power. Pair it with aged cheese or succulent 

steak. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. 


90 

Tenuta Alzatura 2007 Sagrantino di Montefalco. 

Tenuta Alzatura is part of the Cecchi 

Family Estates (well-known producers in Tuscany), and 

its foray into Umbria has added depth and variety to 

an already rich portfolio of wines. The Sagrantino grape 

shows impressive smoothness, firmness and bright aromas 

of chocolate, dark cherry and spice. Banfi Vintners. 

—M.L. 


89 

Fongoli 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino. 

Thick, savory and darkly concentrated, this inky 

Sagrantino opens with aromas of ripe blackberry, prune, 

plum, cured meat and exotic spice. It shows firm, unyielding 

tannins on the finish. Massanois Imports. 

—M.L. 


88 

Benincasa 2004 Sagrantino di Montefalco. 

Having spent 26 months in oak, this dark 

and sophisticated Sagrantino opens with savory aromas 

of toast, cured meat, dark chocolate and dried fruit. 

It shows a thick, velvety texture, with a touch of tannic 

firmness on the finish. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. 

—M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $34 

88 

Còlpetrone 2006 Montefalco Sagrantino. 

This dark, inky expression of Sagrantino offers 

jammy aromas of strawberry jam and blackberry preserves, 

followed by notes of prune, dark chocolate and 

spice. Expressive and structured, it would pair with 

roasted pork or grilled prime rib. Vias Imports. —M.L. 

abv: 15.5% Price: $60 

88 

Tabarrini 2006 Campo alla Cerqua (Montefalco 

Sagrantino). There’s a ripe note of 

blackberry jam at the start that is followed by savory 

tones of cured meat and dried tobacco. Bold, inky and 

dense, this would pair with steak and green pepper 

sauce. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. 


88 

Tenuta Castelbuono 2006 Montefalco Sagrantino. 

This Sagrantino by the relatively new 

brand Tenuta Castelbuono (owned by the same family 

that runs Ferrari sparkling wine) opens with savory 

notes of cured meat, blackberry and tobacco. It feels 

rich and spicy on the finish. Palm Bay International. 

—M.L. 


87 

Roccafiore 2007 Sagrantino di Montefalco. 

There’s a pungent, spice note at the start 

that recalls dried rosemary or sage. Superdark and concentrated, 

this picks up with notes of dried apple skin, 

tar, leather, tobacco and jammy cherry. Vintners Estate 

Direct Importing. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $27 

MONTEFALCO ROSSO 

90 

Arnaldo Caprai 2010 Montefalco Rosso. 



90 

Arnaldo Caprai 2008 Montefalco Rosso. 

The modern Arnaldo Caprai estate sits at the 

base of the hill occupied by the quaint town of Montefalco 

in Umbria. Montefalco Rosso is a wine that gives 

Umbria a chance to strut its stuff with Sangiovese (a 

grape usually associated with Tuscany). This expression 


is soft, velvety and packed with red fruit. Folio Fine 

Wine Partners. —M.L. 


90 

Arnaldo Caprai 2007 Riserva (Montefalco 

Rosso). Aged 20 months in French oak, 

this offers loads of spicy zest and crispness, followed 

by notes of blackberry, leather, cola and tobacco. Try it 

with lamb in fresh mint sauce. Folio Fine Wine Partners. 

—M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $46 

90 

Moretti Omero 2007 Montefalco Rosso. 

This is a nicely balanced Montefalco Rosso 

comprised of organically farmed Sangiovese, Sagrantino 

and Merlot. It would pair well with grilled sausage 

and onions or oven-roasted pasta—hearty dishes 

that would match the dark fruit, spice and tobacco-like 

flavors. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. Editors’ 

Choice. —M.L. 


88 

Benincasa 2007 Montefalco Rosso. 

There’s a touch of dark spice and cured meat at 

the start that is followed by fruitier notes of blackberry 

and plum. This shows smooth tannins and nice richness, 

making it a good pairing partner to potato gnocchi with 

gorgonzola cheese sauce. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. 

—M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $22 

88 

Fongoli 2007 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). 

There’s a rustic element here that recalls 

smoked bacon or cured beef, with loads of ripe fruit like 

blackberry and maraschino cherry. This rich, plump red 

delivers the intensity and staying power to pair with succulent 

cuts of beef. Massanois Imports. —M.L. 


88 

Lungarotti 2010 Montefalco Rosso. A 

blend of 75% Sangiovese, with additions of 

Merlot and Sagrantino, this opens with spicy aromas of 

cinnamon and crushed clove, with background tones of 

blackberry, cherry cola and black licorice. Pair this with 

veal and wild mushrooms. Vin Divino. —M.L. 


88 

Tabarrini 2007 Montefalco Rosso. Montefalco 

Rosso is primarily Sangiovese with Sagrantino, 

with additions of other red varieties from central 

Italy. This delivers a strong berry personality with notes 

of cherry and dried raspberry, backed by notes of wet 

earth, leather and spice. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. 


87 

Còlpetrone 2008 Montefalco Rosso. 

Owned by the larger wine group Saiagricola, 

Còlpetrone is a solid estate with large vineyard holdings 

in the Montefalco area. This dark, inky offering shows 

aromas of blackberry, spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco. 

Vias Imports. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $17 

87 

Fongoli 2009 Montefalco Rosso. Composed 

of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Merlot and 

Montepulciano, this offers pretty tones of spice and 


wild berry, with background tones of tobacco and worn 

leather. Massanois Imports. —M.L. 


87 

Fongoli 2008 Montefalco Rosso. There’s a 

savory element here of dried ham or beef jerky, 

backed by blackberry, prune, leather and spice. It shows 

a touch of bright acidity on the close that would help 

it pair with cheesy pasta dishes. Massanois Imports. 

—M.L. 


87 

Tenuta Castelbuono 2008 Montefalco 

Rosso. Dark and savory, yet easy-drinking, this 

is redolent of blackberry, prune, leather, tobacco and exotic 

spice. It would pair with roast chicken or spicy pork. 



OTHER UMBRIAN REDS 

92 

Lungarotti 2007 Rubesco Riserva Vigna 

Monticchio (Torgiano). This wine’s most outstanding 

quality is the elegant and delicate manner with 

which the bouquet slowly reveals itself. This vineyarddesignate 

wine is a traditional blend of Sangiovese and 

Canaiolo, opening with subtle aromas of red cherry, 

dried violet, moist earth, vanilla and cured meat. Vin 

Divino. Cellar Selection. —M.L. 


91 

Falesco 2008 Marciliano Cabernet (Umbria). 

Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon show 

a united front with an authentic Italian feel. Umbria’s 

Marciliano is a dense and rich red wine, with savory aromas 

of blackberry, cured meat, dried sage, leather, tobacco 

and dark chocolate. The wine’s tannins are firm 

and dense, but not at all sharp or thorny. Winebow. 

—M.L. 


91 

Lungarotti 2005 San Giorgio (Umbria). 

This shows beautiful balance and intensity, with 

notes of black fruit, espresso, leather and a touch of 

drying mineral. The blend is Sangiovese, Canaiolo and 

Cabernet Sauvignon. Vin Divino. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $63 

91 

Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Phi Natura Armonia 

(Umbria). Cabernet Franc and Montepulciano 

join forces to produce a bold, masculine wine 

with a velvety soft style and lasting notes of chocolate, 

tobacco, blackberry and spice. There’s a touch of Cabernet 

greenness on the close that recalls dried rosemary 

or sage. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $50 

91 

Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Phi Natura Armonia 

(Umbria). Bold, thick and chewy, this masculine 

blend of Montepulciano and Cabernet Franc delivers 

lasting aromas of pipe tobacco, cinnamon, jammy 

blackberry and dried herb. The finish is driven by a soft, 

chocolate-fudge-like aftertaste. Votto Vines Importing. 

—M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $49 

90 

Barberani 2007 Polvento Villa Monticelli 

(Lago di Corbara). This blend of Sangiovese, 

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon opens with bright 

aromas of cola, licorice, black fruit and tobacco. It’s an 

elegant red wine with enough structure to pair with 

roast pork or thinly cut lamb shanks. Vinifera Imports. 

—M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

90 

Falesco 2009 Il Falesco (Umbria). A blend 

of Merlot and Sangiovese, this delivers beautiful 

aromas of chocolate, spice, tobacco, ripe fruit and black 

cherry. It is densely concentrated and plump, with a velvety 

mouthfeel and long finish. Pair it with oven-roasted 

lasagna. Winebow. —M.L. 


90 

Lungarotti 2007 Toralco (Umbria). This 

superconcentrated red delivers savory aromas 

of cured meat, wild mushroom, exotic spice with bold 

fruit tones of prune, plum and dried blackberry. It’s a 

bold wine that would pair with fire-grilled steak. Vin Divino. 

—M.L. 


89 

Falesco 2010 Merlot (Umbria). Falesco’s 

Riccardo Cotarella makes some of Italy’s best 

Merlot. His talents are evident in this easygoing expression 

from Umbria, which is rich and succulent, bearing 

dark tones of blackberry, leather and sweet chocolate. 

Winebow. —M.L. 


88 

Arnaldo Caprai 2008 Anima Umbra (Umbria). 

A blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo, this 

is a richly concentrated red that would pair with pork, 

lamb or hearty lasagna with beef sauce. An easy dinner 

wine to share with friends, it is redolent of blackberry, 

spice and cured meat. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Best 

Buy. —M.L. 


88 

Falesco 2010 Vitiano (Umbria). You can’t 

beat this low price. No wonder Vitiano is a constant 

feature on wine lists at restaurants across Rome. 

This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese 

offers spicy oak notes, with suggestions of ripe 

cherry, blackberry and spice. Winebow. Best Buy. 

—M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

88 

Lungarotti 2009 Rubesco (Torgiano). A 

a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino, 

this opens with a tangy bouquet that’s redolent of wild 

berry, dried ginger, cola and licorice. Easy drinking and 

smooth, this has fresh acidity on the finish. Vin Divino. 

—M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

88 

Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Terra di Confine 

(Umbria). Aged 12 months in French oak, this 

has creamy aromas of chocolate fudge and cinnamon. 

Made by Umbria’s Maravalle family, this blend of 80% 

Montepulciano and 20% Merlot is easy going and crisp, 

with loads of fresh fruit flavors. Votto Vines Importing. 

—M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 

Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Terra di Confine 

(Umbria). Comprised of mostly Montepulciano 

with 20% Merlot, this shows sweet tones of ripe 

cherry, blackberry, cinnamon and tobacco. It’s simple 

and straightforward, with clean, velvety lines. Votto 

Vines Importing. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $29 

87 

Falesco 2009 Merlot (Umbria). A great trattoria 

wine, this smooth Merlot opens with aromas 

of ripe fruit and a touch of cured meat. It’s a fullbodied 

expression with easy fruit flavors and a touch of 

bright acidity on the close. Winebow. —M.L. 


87 

Falesco 2009 Red (Assisi). This easygoing 

blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and 

Merlot would make a perfect companion to a hearty 

pasta dish like bucatini all’Amatriciana or spaghetti alla 

carbonara. It delivers red cherry, leather and tobacco 

notes over a clean, bright mouthfeel. Winebow. —M.L. 


87 

Falesco 2008 Sangiovese (Umbria). 

Plump and rich, this shows warm climate aromas 

of blackberry preserves, ripe cherry, dark cola and 

cigar tobacco. There’s a fine touch of exotic spice on the 

close. Winebow. —M.L. 


87 

Roccafiore 2008 Prova d’Autore (Umbria). 

A blend of Sangiovese, Montepulciano 

and Sagrantino, this is a rich, chewy red with savory aromas 

of cured meat and spice. There’s a touch of ripe 

fruit and even a note on the finish that resembles cinnamon 

or ground nutmeg. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. 

—M.L. 


87 

Roccafiore 2008 Rosso (Umbria). This 

Sangiovese-based red has a light, ruby color and 

offers fresh aromas of violet, wet earth, wild mushroom 

and leather. Delicate and streamlined, it has fresh acidity 

that would pair well with simple pasta and Parmigiano. 



87 

Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Elcione (Umbria). 

A blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet, this 

delivers sassy aromas of leather and cinnamon, with 

ripe, pulpy fruit. There’s a touch of cherry that gives 

the wine a soft, velvety finish. Votto Vines Importing. 

—M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $18 

87 

Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Elcione (Umbria). 

This is the quintessential red meat wine that 

delivers plump aromas of dark berry, leather, spice 

and black pepper. There’s a touch of jammy fruit in the 

mouth but enough acidity to break through succulent 

cuts of lamb or beef. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $19 

86 

La Carraia 2008 Tizzonero (Umbria). This 

opens with savory, slightly beefy aromas of bresaola 

and ripe blackberry. There seems to be a touch of 

sweetness on the palate, followed by a thickly textured 

finish. Winebow. —M.L. 


86 

Roccafiore 2009 Rosso Melograno (Umbria). 

A blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% 

Montepulciano, this opens with savory aromas of tobacco, 

leather, cola, cherry cola and white licorice. The 

mouthfeel is fresh, light and slightly tart on the finish. 



86 

Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Sangio’vese (Umbria). 

This easy expression of Sangiovese offers 

an unusual set of aromas that spans from sweet Christmas 

spice to blue flower to green herb. A touch of cola 

or eucalyptus gives the wine a bright, vertical lift. Votto 

Vines Importing. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $14 

MARCHE 

90 

Colli di Serrapetrona 2006 Robbione 

(Marche). Robbione is a pure expression of 

Vernaccia Nera—a red grape variety found in central 

Italy—that is strongly redolent of white pepper straight 

out of a pepper mill. Unique, intense and loaded with 

personality, try this with grilled steak in green pepper 

sauce. Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $30 

90 

Il Pollenza 2007 Red (Marche). For full review 

see page 8. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $57 

88 

Domodimonti 2008 Il Messia (Marche). A 

plump blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Montepulciano, 

this opens with a sweet cherry flavor, followed 

by notes of tobacco, leather and cola. Pair this with pork 

sausages. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. 


87 

Domodimonti 2008 Picens (Marche). This 

is a bold blend of Montepulciano, Sangiovese, 

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, offering sweet aromas 

of red cherry, blackberry, spice and pipe tobacco. The 

ripeness of the wine is very attractive—thanks to a playful 

touch of sweetness on the finish MHW, Ltd. —M.L. 


86 

Domodimonti 2010 Monte Fiore Sangiovese 

(Marche). Slender and compact, this has 

a light ruby color, with lively aromas of wild berry and 

bitter almond. The acidity shows a tight, nervous quality. 

MHW, Ltd. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $15 

85 

Angelini 2011 Pergola Rosso (Marche). 

This opens with perfumed aromas of blue flower, 

cherry and wild berry. Soft and simple, it has a pretty 

floral finish of red rose and violet. Angelini Wine. 

—M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $17 

83 

Angelini 2010 Pergola Rosso (Marche). 

Light and lean, this could easily be labeled a 

rosé. The aromas reinforce that notion thanks to the 

tones of rose petal, pink grapefruit and bitter almond. 

Angelini Wine. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $17 

MONTEPULCIANO 

D’ABRUZZO 

90 

Cantina Zaccagnini 2008 Vigneto Edoardo 

(Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This offers 

layers of toasted nut, chocolate, jammy black fruit and 

tobacco. The mouthfeel is soft and smooth, with a good 

deal of richness and density to drive it forward over the 

palate. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. 


90 

Pasetti 2007 Tenutarossa (Montepulciano 

d’Abruzzo). Rich and chewy, this comes 

with bold aromas of black fruit, plum, licorice, tobacco 

and leather. It’s slightly rustic in places, but its overall 

personality and feel is intriguing and pleasurable. Old 

Bridge Cellars. —M.L. 


89 

Talamonti 2010 Tre Saggi (Montepulciano 

d’Abruzzo). A great wine to pair with gourmet 

hamburgers or grilled Italian sausages, this has a 

smooth mouthfeel that’s enhanced by layers of sweet 

blackberry, tobacco, cinnamon and espresso bean. The 

finish is soft and velvety. Panebianco. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

88 

Caldora Vini 2007 Yume (Montepulciano 

d’Abruzzo). Notes of raw cherry, coffee syrup, 

ripe blackberry and moist pipe tobacco all play major 

roles on the bouquet. This is boldly extracted and rich, 

with toasted espresso and almond notes on the finish. 


abv: 13.5% Price: $24 

88 

Cantina Zaccagnini 2009 Dal Tralcetto 

(Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Dal Tralcetto 

shows the softness of Montepulciano, with aromas of 

sweet cherry, prune, tobacco, cinnamon and toasted 

nut. A tiny grape cutting is affixed to the neck of the 

bottle as a throwback to old farming traditions. Wines 

Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. 


88 

Cantina Zaccagnini 2008 Chronicon 

(Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Montepulciano 

d’Abruzzo wines are making steady gains in popularity 

in foreign markets thanks to the softness and the 

creaminess of their fruit flavors. This one has soft and 

yielding tannins, with aromas that are intensely redolent 

of black cherry, coffee and tobacco. Wines Unlimited, 

Inc. —M.L. 


88 

Farnese 2010 Casale Vecchio (Montepulciano 

d’Abruzzo). Sometimes you need 

a sturdy wine for a decadent TV night with pepperoni 

and sausage pizza. This velvety-rich Montepulciano fits 

the bill perfectly, thanks to its aromas of spice, blackberry, 

cinnamon and moist tobacco. Empson (USA) Ltd. 

—M.L. 



87 

Caldora Vini 2011 Montepulciano 

d’Abruzzo. Perfectly suited for home-cooked 

comfort meals like lasagna or meatloaf, this is rich, 

dense and soft, with endnotes of blackberry, cherry and 

tobacco. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. 


87 

Pasetti 2007 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. 

Definitely on the warm and jammy side, this 

easygoing Montepulciano delivers aromas of blackberry, 

dried fruit and cured meat. This would pair well 

with roast pork stuffed with prunes. Old Bridge Cellars. 

—M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

86 

Capestrano 2010 Montepulciano 

d’Abruzzo. The flagship red grape in Abruzzo 

is Montepulciano, and this expression shows a light 

and informal side to the native variety. Soft, velvety tannins 

frame the plump black-cherry fruit. Vias Imports. 

—M.L. 


86 

Farnese 2011 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. 

Stock your pantry with this wine to pair with 

take-out pizza or easy pasta dishes at home. This delivers 

soft tannins and a sweet cherry flavor. Empson 

(USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. 


86 

Talamonti 2010 Modà (Montepulciano 

d’Abruzzo). Jammy fruit, raspberry preserves, 

espresso, leather and tobacco form the nose of 

this dense, bold Montepulciano. The tannins are soft, 

smooth and velvety. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L. 



91 

Farnese 2007 Opi Riserva (Colline Teramane). 

This hearty red is packed tight with superintense 

aromas of black fruit, leather, tobacco and 

roasted espresso bean. Bold, big and meaty, this is richly 

extracted and inky dark. Pair it with aged Pecorino 

cheese. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 


87 

Rontana 2008 Sangiovese (Colli di 

Faenza). This Sangiovese from central Italy offers 

abundant freshness and pretty aromas of wild berry, 

almond, cola and dried ginger. There’s a touch of dried 

herb and licorice that gives the wine a bright, buoyant 

finish. Imports Inc. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $17 

87 

Tenuta Amalia 2010 Bio-571 (Sangiovese 

di Romagna). Made with organically farmed 

Sangiovese, this pretty red delivers savory aromas of 

spice, cola and steak sauce, with cool, fruit intensity and 

bright acidity on the finish. Wine Emporium. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $14 

86 

Caldora Vini 2011 Terre di Chieti. Available 

at an attractively low price, this Sangiovese 

shows easy berry aromas with soft accents of blue flower 

and diced almond. The wine’s natural freshness makes it 


perfect to pair against cheesy pasta dishes. Vin Divino. 


abv: 12.5% Price: $11 

86 

Farnese 2011 Terre di Chieti. Toasted almond, 

wild berry, plump cherry and wild raspberry 

open the nose on this Sangiovese, which has 

the varietal’s characteristic freshness as well. Empson 

(USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $11 

86 

Pasetti 2010 Diecicoppe (Colline Pescaresi). 

A blend of Montepulciano, Merlot and 

Cabernet, this offers savory aromas of leather, tobacco, 

spice and dark fruit. There’s a tangy note of cured meat 

and teriyaki on the close. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $16 

85 

Angelini 2007 Riserva Sangiovese (Colli 

Pesaresi). This opens with ripe aromas of 

candied fruit and sweet prune. There’s a touch of crisp 

cherry cola, with a general tartness on the finish. Angelini 

Wine. —M.L. 


84 

Angelini 2008 Sangiovese (Colli Pesaresi). 

Almost rosé-like in color and personality, 

this light, Sangiovese-based wine delivers bright acidity 

and layers of wild berry and pink flower. Angelini 

Wine. —M.L. 


ARGENTINA 

CHARDONNAY 

87 

Rutini 2011 Trumpeter Chardonnay 

(Mendoza). Walnut, banana, apple and vanilla 

aromas are nicely presented. The palate holds its own 

as far as structure, while the melon, apple and honey 

flavors are friendly. This is a better-than-you’d-expect 

Chardonnay for everyday drinking. Pasternak Wine Imports. 


abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

85 

Trapiche 2011 Broquel Chardonnay 

(Mendoza). This has apple and nectarine aromas 

that are a touch briny. It shows good acidity and 

mouthfeel, with flavors of apple, peach and even some 

green bean. The Wine Group. —M.S. 


84 

Trapiche 2011 Finca Las Palmas Chardonnay 

(Mendoza). This is oakier and more 

expensive than prior Trapiche Chardonnays, but it’s not 

necessarily better. It smells like a rubber band and a 

barrel, bearing resiny flavors of mango and melon, with 

lots of sweet oak and vanilla tones. The Wine Group. 

—M.S. 


84 

Valentin Bianchi 2011 Elsa Chardonnay 

(Mendoza). Apple and white fruit aromas 

set up a balanced, reasonably full palate, with banana, 

creamy oak, vanilla and apple flavors. It feels solid and 

round, with a clean finish. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. 


83 

Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Chardonnay 

(Mendoza). Mild varnish and lacquer 

aromas stem from the oak influence, and there’s 

not a lot of fruit to offset those notes. It feels plump 

and a bit clumsy, with briny citrus flavors leading to a 

pickled, resiny finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

82 

Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Chardonnay 

(Mendoza). After light scents of butter and 

spiced apple surface, the wine turns briny and pickled, 

both in aromas and flavors. It feels fleshy on the finish, 

with briny stone-fruit and citrus flavors. The Wine 

Group. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

81 

Telteca 2011 Roble Chardonnay (Mendoza). 

A nutty apricot aroma marks the nose. 

It feels creamy and sticky, with sweet vanilla and baked 

fruit flavors. With time it turns more cloying. Fleischer 

International Trading, Inc. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

81 

Trivento 2011 Reserve Chardonnay 

(Mendoza). Light on the nose, it feels tangy 

in the mouth, with sharp flavors of mustard, brine and 

lime. This finishes with a pickled flavor. Banfi Vintners. 

—M.S. 


SAUVIGNON BLANC 

87 

Pulenta Estate 2011 VI Sauvignon Blanc 

(Mendoza). There aren’t many Argentine Sauvignon 

Blancs that make a statement, so this is commendable 

for showing a lightly citric and minerally nose 

in front of fresh, citrusy flavors of lime, tangerine and 

grapefruit. More friendly and easygoing than intense 

or pungent, it fades quick and easy on the finish. Paul 

Hobbs Wines. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $16 

84 

Árido 2011 Sustainably Farmed Sauvignon 

Blanc (Mendoza). Oyster shell and 

matchstick aromas come with distant peach and melon 

notes. Feels good but rudimentary, with peach and 

papaya flavors that end soft and easy. Drink this immediately 

for maximum zest and freshness. San Francisco 

Wine Exchange. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $10 

84 

Bodega Norton 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 

(Mendoza). A touch of minerality on the nose 

comes with apple and lemon aromas. It feels fleshy, with 

pulpy white-fruit flavors that end with honeydew and 

papaya notes. Drink now. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 


83 

Funky Llama 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 

(Mendoza). Papaya, lime and peach aromas 

are basic but clean. The palate, too, feels basic and 

clean. Flavors of orange and citrus pith lead to a fleshy, 

sweet-tasting finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 


83 

Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Sauvignon 

Blanc (Mendoza). This smells a bit oily

and like a match, with additional aromas of white fruits 

and corn flakes. It feels pulpy but just crisp enough, 

with pithy grapefruit and sweet papaya flavors. It tastes 

candied on the finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

TORRONTÉS 

89 

Trapiche 2011 Broquel Torrontés (Cafayate). 

Every year this wine seems to get better. 

This vintage deals notes of lemon pie, melon and lychee 

on the bouquet, which is followed by a palate that’s oily 

yet racy. Flavors of lychee and pineapple are true to 

Torrontés, while green herb and lime notes stir things 

up. The Wine Group. —M.S. 


87 

Matias Bertona Wines 2011 Inspiratto 

from the Andes Torrontés (Mendoza). 

Vanilla cookie and stone fruit aromas set up a creamy, 

mostly fresh-feeling palate, with flowery papaya and 

green banana flavors. It’s tropical in style, with complexity 

and length to the finish. Wine Brindis Importers. 

—M.S. 

abv: 13.3% Price: $18 

87 

Trivento 2011 Reserve Torrontés (Mendoza). 

Clean and basic up front, with peach 

and white flower aromas. It feels juicy, with just enough 

body, bearing fruit salad flavors of nutmeg-dusted white 

grapes, apple and peach. It turns dry and almondy on 

the finish. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. 


87 

Zuccardi 2011 Serie A Torrontés (Salta). 

This is extremely aromatically pungent, with 

notes of honeysuckle, melon and lychee blasting up 

from the glass. It shows body and an oily quality, with 

orange, kumquat and peach flavors. This is round, 

showing a citrus rind flavor on the finish. Winesellers 

Ltd. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

85 

Valentin Bianchi 2011 Elsa Torrontés 

(Mendoza). Tropical and friendly, this feels 

a little bulky and chunky, but with enough acidity for 

balance. Flavors of citrus and mango are medium intense, 

while the finish is soft. Drink soon. Quintessential 

Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. 


84 

Callia 2011 Reservado Torrontés (San 

Juan). This is neutral on the nose except for 

green banana and white grapefruit hints. It feels melony, 

with flavors that match the mouthfeel in the form of 

melon and nectarine. This is flabby on the finish, needing 

more cut and zest. Palm Bay International. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

82 

Telteca 2011 Uma Colección Torrontés 

(Mendoza). Oily and mustardy on the nose, 

then inconistent and not real clear on the palate. It 

tastes like briny melon and apricot, turning a bit flat on 

the finish. Fleischer International Trading, Inc. —M.S. 


82 

Toneles del Sur 2011 Torrontés (Mendoza). 

Mellow and melony up front, with a 

plump, bland palate featuring mealy melon and peach 

flavors. The finish has a touch of bitterness. Wine Brindis 

Importers. —M.S. 

abv: 13.2% Price: $15 

81 

Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Torrontés 

(Mendoza). This is not a consistent wine 

year to year. Some vintages are true and vital, but this 

is clunky, with flavors of honeyed white fruits and bitter 

almond skins. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

OTHER WHITE WINE 

83 

Martino 2011 Old Vine Pedro Ximénez 

(Mendoza). This is briny and oily on the nose, 

with grapefruit aromas. It feels citrusy in the mouth, 

with bitter nut and citrus flavors that turn pithy and 

more briny on the finish. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $16 

BONARDA 

89 

Trapiche 2010 Broquel Bonarda (Mendoza). 

Saturated and pitch black to look at, and 

not much different in scent. This is a fully extracted, 

modern Bonarda that’s well made and generous. Fullbodied 

wine lovers should like the meaty, dark berry 

and cocoa flavors. Tannic but layered on the finish. The 

Wine Group. —M.S. 


88 

Gardel 2010 Vendimia Especial Bonarda 

(Mendoza). This is fresh, showing plenty of 

pop on the fruit-filled bouquet. It feels wide and jammy, 

yet grabby and dry because of its firm tannins. Typical of 

Bonarda, it’s full of ripe black-fruit flavors and licorice, 

while the structured finish makes for a good ending. 

Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. 


86 

Alfredo Roca 2010 Dedicación Personal 

Bonarda (Mendoza). This is earthy, rubbery 

and big on the nose, which isn’t unusual for Bonarda. 

The tannins clamp down on the palate, tasting roasted, 

with hickory and smoked meat flavors sticking out. It’s 

dense but not very active on the finish. Hand Picked 

Selections. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $21 

86 

Gardel 2011 Colección Bonarda (Mendoza). 

Red and black fruit aromas open the nose. 

The palate feels healthy, with tight tannins and charging 

flavors of blackberry and dark plum. Pair this with 

a burger, pasta or pizza. Frontier Wine Imports. Best 

Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 13.2% Price: $11 

83 

Argento 2010 Bonarda (Mendoza). This 

smells rubbery and like cured meat, and it’s not 

very fruity. It clunks across the palate with squeaky tannins, 

a lot of weight and foresty, herbal plum flavors. 

Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

CABERNET FRANC 

87 

Lagarde 2010 Single Vineyard Cabernet 

Franc (Luján de Cuyo). Earthy plum and 

berry aromas are suggestive of Bordeaux, but the brown 

sugar and baked fruit angle is all Mendoza. Snappy acidity 

helps the wine stay trim, while linear raspberry and 

cherry flavors are red in character. This is gripping with 

an acidic push to the finish. Dangerous Wine Group. 

—M.S. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $29 

86 

Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Reserva 

Cabernet Franc (Agrelo). Black fruit, leather 

and licorice aromas are draped all over this heavyweight 

Cabernet Franc. It feels tannic, with aggressive flavors 

of bullish black fruit. This is flavorful at every point, but 

hard and abrasive in feel. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. 


82 

Pulenta Estate 2009 Gran XI Cabernet 

Franc (Mendoza). Extremely herbal and vegetal, 

this is also saturated and syrupy on the palate. Flavors 

of green bean, mushroom, tomato paste and baked 

berry are undeniable. It hints at something better but 

requires too much patience to find it. Paul Hobbs 



CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

90 

Trapiche 2008 Finca Las Palmas Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Mendoza). Cola, tree bark 

and rooty aromas become more oaky and toasted with 

airing. It feels solid and correct, with balanced tannins 

and acids that stage red plum, cassis, coffee and toasted 

flavors. Staying toasty and composed on the finish, this 

is a ripe Cabernet Sauvignon that delivers. The Wine 



90 

Trapiche 2008 Gran Medalla Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Mendoza). A bit rustic and briary, 

this has a foresty aroma along with a rooty note and a 

hint of cola. It feels big and acidic, but the cassis, blackberry 

and herbal flavors are authentic and hit firmly. 

The finish is long, mildly herbal and juicy, with weight 

and power to spare. The Wine Group. —M.S. 


88 

Familia Cassone 2008 Obra Prima Reserva 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Cola, 

root beer and cherry aromas come with controlled heat. 

The palate is dense and chewy, with pumped-up tannins 

supporting very ripe-tasting cassis and cooked plum flavors. 

It’s toasty and spicy on the firm finish. Bedford International. 

—M.S. 


88 

Pascual Toso 2009 Alta Reserve Barrancas 

Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Mendoza). This smells familiar and solid, with blackberry, 

licorice and dark cherry aromas. It feels medium 

bodied for a high-end Argentine Cabernet, with healthy 

acidity and probing tannins. The flavors of blackberry 


and raspberry finish crisp and slightly citric. T.G.I.C. 

Importers. —M.S. 


88 

Trapiche 2010 Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Mendoza). For full review see page 9. 

—M.S. 


87 

Finca Perdriel 2009 Colección Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Mendoza). Straightforward 

aromas of black currant and dark plum help create a 

rich style of Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a syrupy palate 

that’s made firmer by driving tannins. It features a lot 

of chocolate, baked black-plum and mild herbal flavors. 

It’s ultraconcentrated, and more driving than discerning. 

T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

87 

Salvatore Principe 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Mendoza). At first, this smells charred 

and meaty, but blackberry, leather and roasted plum 

aromas soon sneak out. This runs big, with good acidity 

and manageable tannins. Flavors of cherry and cassis 

are lively and familiar. Prestige Wine Group. Best 

Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

86 

Menduco 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Uco Valley). Penetrating cola, mint 

and black fruit aromas are probing. It feels tight and 

gripping, tasting forward and correct for the variety, 

with bell pepper, black fruit and spice flavors. This is robust, 

with good flavors and quality fruit. Carolina Wine 

Brands USA. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $12 

86 

Rutini 2011 Trumpeter Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Mendoza). This is dark, smoky and 

minty at first, turning more earthy, leathery and warm 

as it opens. It feels big and sort of tough, with smoked, 

roasted flavors of savory berry and rooty cola. It finishes 

tannic and rubbery. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

85 

Alta Vista 2010 Premium Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Mendoza). Hard, minty, oaky and 

even a touch chemical on the nose, then tough as nails 

in the mouth. Tastes resiny and minty, with black fruit 

flavors and extreme tannic clamp. Chocolaty tasting on 

the finish, which retains the wine’s hard personality. 

Tasted twice. Kobrand. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

85 

Finca El Origen 2011 Reserva Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Leathery berry 

aromas are earthy and suggest notes of cured meat 

and cheese. It gets tougher and more tannic the more it 

breathes, with black fruit, herb and spice flavors. Generous 

but rough in feel, it has a powerful, medium-long 

finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. 


83 

Alta Vista 2010 Classic Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Mendoza). Somewhat murky and 

smelling of compost and green berry fruit. Feels full 

and wide, with a hard palate containing milk chocolate 


and molasses flavors. Finishes bitter, dark and herbal, 

with gripping tannins. Tasted twice. Kobrand. —M.S. 


82 

Michel Torino 2010 Don David Finca La 

Urquiza #8 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cafayate). 

A green and herbal style of northern Argentine 

Cabernet Sauvignon, this smells like tobacco, green 

bean, bell pepper and oregano. Quite tannic in feel, it 

bears a roasted herb flavor, finishing savory but green. 

Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. 


81 

Canoas 2010 Estate Collection Cabernet 

Sauvignon (San Juan). Grapy and jammy 

smelling, this feels narrow and high in acid, bearing 

plum and tart cherry flavors that turn more sour with 

time. The finish is tomatoey and abrupt. HGC Imports. 

—M.S. 

abv: 12.8% Price: $10 

80 

Familia Cassone 2011 Finca La Florencia 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This is 

saturated, flat and flabby on the nose, with pudgy blackberry 

aromas. It has a static, jammy mouthfeel, tasting 

overspiced and heavily oaked. Bedford International. 

—M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $12 

MALBEC 

95 

Trapiche 2009 Finca Jorge Miralles Single 

Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). For 

full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. 


94 

Trapiche 2009 Finca Domingo F. Sarmiento 

Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). 


abv: 14.5% Price: $50 

94 

Viña Alicia 2008 Coleccion de Familia 

Brote Negro (Luján de Cuyo). For full review 

see page 5. Editors’ Choice. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $90 

93 

Doña Silvina 2007 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). 

Big and modern, this has simmering 

aromas of turned earth, graham cracker, leather, plum 

and blackberry. It feels megasaturated but well balanced, 

with hugely ripe black-fruit, chocolate and toasted 

marshmallow flavors. Warm and nearly Port-like, 

this is full of toffee and fudge notes on the finish. It’s a 

flashy, polished, 21st-century red wine. Mistica Wines 

LLC. —M.S. 


93 

Trapiche 2009 Finca Suarez Lastra Single 

Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). For 



92 

Cielo y Tierra 2007 Don Juan Nahuel Malbec 

(Mendoza). This opens with persuasive 

aromas of wild berry and cassis before cola and leather 

notes enter. It’s a powerfully built Malbec with bright 

acidity, strong bones and pure, bold flavors of blackber- 

ry and black cherry. This is youthful and more fruit focused 

than the oakier DJN 2006 Reserva Malbec. The 

Sorting Table. —M.S. 


92 

Enrique Foster 2006 Limited Edition Malbec 

(Luján de Cuyo). For full review see 

page 6. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $47 

92 

Trapiche 2008 Gran Medalla Malbec 

(Mendoza). Smooth and polished, this bears 

cola, earth, blackberry and floral aromas. It shows power 

and precision, with silky tannins, integrated acidity 

and deep flavors of berry, leather and herb. This is 

slightly minty, smoky and spicy on the back end, where 

fine oak takes charge. Drink now–2015. The Wine 


abv: 14.5% Price: $46 

91 

Bodega Norton 2009 Privada Malbec 

(Mendoza). Spunky right off the bat, this has 

floral and fresh fruit aromas that fall squarely into the 

wild berry category. It feels lively on the palate, with 

spiked acidity but enough weight and depth to absorb 

it. This tastes like a mix of plum, blackberry and chocolate, 

and the finish darkens up with notes of pepper and 

spice. Drink now–2017. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $30 

91 

Familia Cassone 2008 Obra Prima Coleccion 

Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). 

The bouquet is stylish and rooty, with black-fruit 

and chocolate scents leading the charge. It shows good 

structure, meaning it’s full but not too thick or jammy. 

Flavors of ripe blackberry and plum are generous and a 

touch rubbery, while the finish is full and mildly tannic. 

Bedford International. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $42 

91 

Finca Perdriel 2009 Colección Malbec 

(Mendoza). This is a cuddly, jammy, ripe Malbec 

with maple, blackberry and oak aromas. It feels 

weighty and lush, with large-scale boysenberry, blackberry 

and blueberry flavors. It turns a little soft and basic 

on the finish, but there’s no griping about this wine’s 

purity and fruit content. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

91 

Trapiche 2008 Finca Las Palmas Malbec 

(Mendoza). A high-end Malbec experience 

at a reasonable price, this boasts rich aromas of cola, 

graphite and boysenberry that leap from the glass. The 

palate is bright and just thick enough, with wild berry, 

cherry, plum and oak-based flavors. Another whack of 

oak, along with vanilla, chocolate and tobacco flavors, 

graces the finish. Drink now–2015. The Wine Group. 

—M.S. 


90 

Cielo y Tierra 2006 Don Juan Nahuel 

Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). This is floral, 

exotic and candied smelling, with supporting notes of 

dusty cocoa and toasty oak. It feels saturated and inky, 

with a density that borders on too much. Roasted berry, 

foresty spice, herb and jammy berry flavors set up 

the woody, menthol-flavored finish. From Gustavo San-

taoalla, an Argentine musician and composer. The Sorting 

Table. —M.S. 


90 

Lagarde 2009 Primeras Viñas Malbec 

(Luján de Cuyo). The jammy, sweet berry 

aromas are suggestive of blueberry, cookie and graham 

cracker. It feels condensed and a bit reduced, with mild 

tannins and flavors of blueberry, blackberry and herb 

accents. It’s not rough but definitely ripe and flamboyant, 

with a big, jammy personality. Dangerous Wine 


abv: 14.7% Price: $49 

90 

Matias Bertona Wines 2008 Inspiratto 

from the Andes Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). 

This smells toasty up front, with aromas of tree 

bark, earth and shoe polish. It runs deep and rich on the 

tongue, with a syrupy feel and flavors of graham cracker, 

tobacco, berry pie and herb accents. The finish is good 

but seems a little hollow, with rooty, herbal flavors that 

linger. Wine Brindis Importers. —M.S. 


90 

Terrazas de Los Andes 2008 Single Vineyard 

Las Compuertas Malbec (Luján de 

Cuyo). A bit leafy and earthy on first take, but this 

also smells of roasted meat, berry fruit and menthol. It 

feels layered and rich, with drying tannins and full-force 

plum and herb flavors. This is big, dark and herbal, 

finishing with hints of leather, tomato and oregano. 

Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. 


90 

Toneles del Sur 2008 Reserve Malbec 

(Mendoza). This is rooty smelling, with licorice, 

root beer, tar and smoky notes accenting berry fruit 

aromas. It feels unctuous but manages to hold onto its 

balance, and the flavors of baked berry, black plum and 

savory herb are on the money. The finish is chewy in 

feel, with a slightly herbal character. Wine Brindis Importers. 

—M.S. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $20 

89 

Enrique Foster 2007 Firmado Malbec 

(Mendoza). This is a pushy wine with aromas 

of rubber, pencil eraser, leather, blueberry and oak. It 

has the tannic grip that creates a certain roughness, 

while blueberry and spice flavors have fire to them, especially 

on the finish.. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. 


89 

Lamadrid 2008 Single Vineyard Gran 

Reserva Malbec (Agrelo). Saturated on the 

nose, this has aromas of pencil lead, coconut, vanilla and 

black fruit. It feels tannic, with pulsing acidity pushing 

raisin, prune, black plum, licorice and graphite flavors. 

The finish is oaky, resiny and chocolaty tasting. Vino Del 

Sol. —M.S. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $34 

88 

Menduco 2011 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley). 

Concentrated blackberry and black currant 

aromas are ripe and come with a balsamic note. 

It feels juicy, full, lively and fresh, with oaky dark-plum 

flavors accented by rooty, herbal notes. Dry tannins 

mark the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. 

—M.S. 


87 

Bodega Norton 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). 

Ripe red-fruit flavors are nice and normal, while 

the palate feels fresh and lifted by balancing acids. Focused 

raspberry and plum flavors are clean and don’t 

push the oak envelope. Overall, this is lively and fun. 

T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $9 

87 

Fabre Montmayou 2011 Phebus Malbec 

(Mendoza). Aromas of dark berry, rubber and 

a smoky quality define the bouquet. It feels nice, with 

a slight tannic grab and likable flavors of red berry and 

pepper. Short on the finish, but it’s fresh and clean. 

Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 


87 

Pascual Toso 2009 Alta Reserve Barrancas 

Vineyards Malbec (Mendoza). Not as 

good as in previous vintages, this has a distinct minty, 

shrill quality to the otherwise leathery and foresty bouquet. 

It feels a bit raw and high in acidity, with plum 

and herb flavors. Modest on the finish, this stays fairly 

minty and herbal while remaining fresh. T.G.I.C. Importers. 

—M.S. 


86 

Gardel 2011 Colección Malbec (Mendoza). 

Dark and minty smelling, this bears hints 

of blackberry, perfume and violet. It feels good and not 

too forceful, with regular Malbec flavors of dark fruit, 

red plum and spice. The finish is firm and slightly medicinal. 

Frontier Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. 


85 

Alma del Sur 2011 Colección Malbec 

(Mendoza). The fresh berry aromas are solid, 

and the palate is plucky and lively, with plenty of acidity 

to push the ripe, standard Malbec flavors of blackberry 

and spice. It shows some tartaric crispness and 

bite on the finish, but tastes right. Martin Scott Wines. 


abv: 13.8% Price: $10 

85 

Bodega Norton 2011 Lo Tengo Malbec 

(Mendoza). Black fruit aromas come with 

a dusty note and a hint of milk chocolate. This feels 

straightforward, with flavors of raspberry, mild herb 

and sugar beet. The finish is short and easy, with an approachable 

mouthfeel. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $11 

84 

Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2011 Lote 44 

Malbec (Mendoza). A lot of oak hits hard, 

with initial scents of shoe polish and black tar. This is 

rubbery, big and forward stuff, with loud plum, berry, 

toast and oak flavors. The finish stays minty, toasty and 

slightly bitter. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

83 

Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2011 Tolentino 

Winemaker’s Selection Malbec (Mendoza). 

Meaty plum and berry aromas come with dark, 

demanding, minty aromas that are similar to this winery’s 

Lote 44 bottling. It feels astringent, with a resiny 

oak tone and flavors of raspberry, chocolate and grainy 

wood. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

82 

Finca Flichman 2011 Reserva Malbec 

(Mendoza). Nervy plum and wet-dog aromas 

set up a firm palate that’s herbal tasting. Licorice, medicinal 

berry and green notes surface on the finish. Evaton, 

Inc. —M.S. 


82 

Ñandú 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). The lighter-style 

nose that focuses on red plum and cherry 

is a welcome change from all of the heavy Malbecs 

out there, but the wine doesn’t follow through on the 

palate. It becomes astringent, with tastes of tomato, 

stewed berry and cranberry. Polaris Wines, Inc. —M.S. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $17 

81 

Funky Llama 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). 

The nonexpressive berry and cherry aromas are 

closed. Light in feel, this tastes of citrus, plum and rhubarb. 

The lightweight finish is mildly herbal and green. 

Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $8 

80 

Toca Diamonte 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). 

While this smells floral and candied, the 

palate rages, courtesy of strapping acidity that creates 

tart plum and blueberry flavors. Prestige Wine Group. 

—M.S. 


PINOT NOIR 

86 

Trapiche 2011 Broquel Pinot Noir (Mendoza). 

Little by little Trapiche is improving its 

Pinot Noirs, evidenced by this authentic, lightly perfumed 

wine. It’s fresh, bearing good acidity and roasted 

berry and leaf flavors. It finishes with mild tomato and 

herb accents. This gets better with time in the glass. The 

Wine Group. —M.S. 


85 

Pulenta Estate 2010 Gran XV Pinot Noir 

(Mendoza). Leafy and smoky smelling, this 

has lean cherry and raspberry aromas in the backdrop. 

This is a tight and linear wine, with strawberry and raspberry 

flavors that pick up speed. Overall it’s juicy, jumpy 

and legit, but nervy. This may benefit from more bottle 

aging. Only 512 cases were produced. Paul Hobbs 


abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

85 

Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Pinot Noir (Mendoza). 



82 

Alfredo Roca 2011 Pinot Noir (Mendoza). 

Spearmint and soft berry aromas turn toward 

raisin. This feels wide and flabby, with a lot of oak and 

resin notes in its frame. This is quite oaky, spicy and 

minty for Pinot Noir. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. 

abv: 13.2% Price: $14 

81 

Amadores 2010 Pinot Noir (Mendoza). 

This smells like a forest fire, but it’s also creamy 


and roasted. Tangy and tart, this features narrow plum 

and cherry flavors that are powered by blazing acidity. 

Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $19 


86 

Alfredo Roca 2011 Malbec-Merlot (Mendoza). 

Dusty berry and plum aromas set the 

stage for a big, cheek-grabbing wine with red berry, 

leather and light herb flavors. Toasty and minty, this 

finishes with a touch of spice. This is a good blend of 

60% Malbec and 40% Merlot. Hand Picked Selections. 

—M.S. 

abv: 13.6% Price: $12 

85 

Altos de San Isidro 2009 Reserve Barbera 

(Salta). This smells roasted, leathery and 

earthy, with a mouthfeel that’s solid if a bit scratchy. It 

delivers an intense wild-berry aroma and some of Cafayate’s 

signature complex herbal character. Oaky vanilla 

and dill notes accent the finish. Vineyard Brands. 

—M.S. 


84 

Tempus Alba 2008 Tempranillo (Mendoza). 

The nose opens with animalistic scents 

of leather, compost and barnyard. This has an average 

mouthfeel, with somewhat herbal plum and berry flavors 

that finish short with a mild leafy character. Mistica 

Wines LLC. —M.S. 


83 

Wandering Grape 2011 Malbec-Merlot 

(Mendoza). Raspy cherry aromas precede a 

scratchy palate that’s characterized by its high acid-tobody 

ratio. It tastes a bit tart and generic, with a red 

plum flavor in front of a fiery finish. This is light and 

crisp in style. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. 

abv: 12.9% Price: $11 

MEXICO 

WHITE WINES 

87 

Casa de Piedra 2011 Piedra de Sol Chardonnay 

(Valle de Guadalupe). The apple 

and popcorn aromas are good, and the wine was never 

aged in a barrel. It feels crisp and flinty, with excellent 

cut and acidity. Flavors of lemon and tangerine lead to a 

long, citrusy finish with snap and tang. Baja Wines LLC. 

—M.S. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $23 

87 

Moebius 2011 Endemico Muscatel (Valle 

de Guadalupe). Tropical aromas of lychee 

and green banana are clean and inviting. The palate 

feels lifted, fresh and easygoing, with lychee, banana 

and pear flavors. It finishes pure and fairly long. Baja 


abv: 12.8% Price: $19 

87 

Monte Xanic 2011 Chenin-Colombard 

(Valle de Guadalupe). The peach, pear and 

apple aromas get no interference from oak. The mouthfeel 

is friendly, while flavors of green melon, pear and 


spice work well together. It finishes sweet but with a 

touch of spice and vanilla. Baja Wines LLC. Best Buy. 

—M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

86 

Monte Xanic 2011 Viña Kristel Sauvignon 

Blanc (Valle de Guadalupe). Here’s a true 

Sauvignon Blanc with spunky green aromas and plenty 

of grapefruit. It feels citric and lemony on the tongue, 

with citrusy flavors of tangerine and lime. It finishes 

tight and zesty, like a good Sauvignon Blanc should. 

Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

86 

Viñas Pijoan 2011 Silvana (Valle de Guadalupe). 

Neutral on the bouquet, this has 

clean, stony aromas that set up a surprisingly plump 

palate with melon and lychee flavors. It finishes a bit 

soft, but with more than acceptable acidity. It won’t age 

for too long, but it sure tastes good now. Baja Wines 

LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 12.6% Price: $19 

84 

Paralelo 2011 Emblema Sauvignon Blanc 

(Valle de Guadalupe). Overtly simple and 

drying, this has crisp acidity and oily flavors of popcorn 

and tart white fruits. It finishes with citrus and astringency. 

This would likely be better with seafood or salad 

than on its own. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $21 

82 

Lafarga 2010 Equinoccio Chardonnay 

(Valle de Guadalupe). Waxy smelling and 

gritty, with an oily overtone, this feels O.K. but sort of 

wayward, with flavors of bitter grapefruit and matchstick. 

Simple and somewhat sour on the finish. Baja 


abv: 12.5% Price: $21 

81 

Viñas de Garza 2011 Blanco del Rancho 

Mogorcito (Valle de Guadalupe). This is 

nutty and minerally on the nose, and barely citric as far 

as fruit aromas go. On the palate, there’s bitterness, with 

a grapefruit tang making up the flavor profile. A blend 

of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Baja Wines LLC. 

—M.S. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $22 

RED WINES 

92 

Viñas de Garza 2007 Amado IV (Valle de 

Guadalupe). A world-class wine regardless of 

origin, this Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo 

and Zinfandel blend is as full as they come, with alluring 

black cherry, cola and graphite aromas. The mouthfeel 

is smooth and rich, with a wave of cola, molasses 

and chocolate along with black cherry and blackberry. 

Sweet, dark, smoky and long on the finish. Drink now– 

2014. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $54 

91 

El Sombrero 2009 Red (Valle de Guadalupe). 

Ripe and rich, but not dull or out 

of whack, this smells sweet, a little soupy and densely 

fruity, with a cumin accent. It feels concentrated and 

full bodied, with black fruit flavors of roasted plum and 

blackberry. It’s mellow, dealing brown sugar on the fin- 

ish. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and 

Tempranillo; drink now–2013. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ 


abv: 13.5% Price: $108 

91 

Vinisterra 2007 Pedregal Syrah-Mourvedre 

(San Antonio de las Minas Valley). 

This red blend of 67% Syrah and 33% Mourvedre immediately 

announces itself as serious and classy. The 

bouquet is layered with berry fruit and baking spice 

aromas that aren’t hard or pushy. It feels stout and secure, 

with its structure supporting flavors of concentrated 

berry, pepper and baking spice. The long finish keeps 

its form. Drink now–2015. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ 


abv: 13.8% Price: $45 

90 

Paralelo 2009 Hotel 5 Estrellas (Valle de 

Guadalupe). A blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet 

Sauvignon, Merlot, Grenache and Cinsault, this 

smells spicy and earthy, with cola, leather and dusty berry 

aromas. Focused and pure feeling, it bears flavors of 

berry, plum, cherry, caramel and vanilla cream. Lightly 

stewed on the finish, but it’s excellent overall. Drink 

now–2015. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $40 

90 

Tres Valles 2010 Jalá (Valle de Guadalupe). 

This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and 

Grenache is clean, pure and 100% balanced. Aromas of 

fresh berry, rubber and baking spice lead to berry, plum 

and chocolate flavors. Smooth on the finish, with purity 

and length. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $17 

89 

Rincón de Guadalupe 2008 Tempranillo 

(San Vicente). Arguably Baja’s best varietal 

Tempranillo, this 350-case production is round, clean 

and fruity on the bouquet, with brown sugar and molasses 

along with big black-fruit aromas. It feels full, tannic 

and balanced, with sweet plum, chocolate and berrysyrup 

flavors. This is more than generous on the finish. 

Drink now–2014. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.3% Price: $36 

89 

Viñas de Garza 2007 Colina Norte (Valle 

de Guadalupe). Tight, earthy and focused 

up front, this has attractive berry and cola aromas. It 

feels jammy, flush and lush, then tastes equally jammy 

and rich, with plum and berry flavors that seem 

baked and warm. Candied tasting on the finish, but 

fresh enough in feel. This is a blend of Tempranillo, 

Grenache and Carignan. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $54 

88 

La Lomita 2009 Singular (Valle de Guadalupe). 

Roasted berry, dry oak, bacon, leather, 

graphite and spice aromas come together on the nose. 

It feels jammy, thick and chewy, with full tannins setting 

up flavors of baked berry and molasses. It finishes similarly, 

with a rich, full texture and a candied flavor. This is 

a blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 10% each Cabernet 

Sauvignon and Merlot. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 


88 

Rincón de Guadalupe 2008 Brisas del 

Sur (San Vicente). Sweet, earthy and dry

smelling, with tobacco and savory soy aromas. Tomatoey 

acids pushing raspberry, plum, vanilla and tobacco 

flavors. Oak-based vanilla and tomato flavors are also 

present on the finish, which is fresh and lively. Only 250 

cases made. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.3% Price: $26 

88 

Viñas Pijoan 2009 Doménica (Valle de 

Guadalupe). This is light on the nose, with almost 

airy aromas of raspberry and cherry. Fuller and 

more grabby in the mouth, it has firm tannins and sweet 

flavors of berry and cherry darkened by a toasty accent. 

A little fiery on the finish, it has mild heat that food will 

tame. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.7% Price: $22 

88 

Vinisterra 2007 Macouzet Syrah (Valle de 

Guadalupe and Santo Tomás). Relying on 

fruit from the Guadalupe and Santo Tomás valleys, this 

wine shows a core red-berry aroma that settles on cassis 

and cherry notes. It’s bright, acidic and fruity, with 

wild berry, plum and brown sugar flavors. This is long 

and powerful on the finish due to its juicy acidity. Baja 


abv: 13.7% Price: $30 

87 

Monte Xanic 2008 Gran Ricardo (Valle de 

Guadalupe). Spicy and exotic smelling, this 

bears aromas of tobacco, blueberry and cumin. It feels 

heavy, grabby and supertannic, with mildly herbal flavors 

of peppery berry fruit and chocolate. Prune, berry 

and earth notes work the finish on this meaty, tannic big 

boy. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $52/1.5 L 

87 

HQSA 2009 Xikbal Baja (Valle de Guadalupe). 

This is spicy and dusty on the nose, with a 

hint of agave and roasted berry aromas. Feels full, good 

and zesty, with driving black-cherry, plum and raspberry 

flavors. It shows herbal shadings and fresh tomato on 

the finish. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 

Syrah and Carignan. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 


87 

Viñas Pijoan 2010 Convertible Rojo (Valle 

de Guadalupe). Winemaker/owner Pau Pijoan’s 

tribute to fast, fun cars is encapsulated in this racy 

red blend of Ruby Cabernet (motor), Petit Sirah (turbo 

charger), Barbera (transmission) and Colombard (suspension). 

It’s strapping and shows a lot of acid, while 

the flavors of berry, cherry and chocolate are good but 

monotone. This is fruity, flavorful and not complicated. 


abv: 13.7% Price: $21 

86 

La Lomita 2009 Pagano Grenache (Valle 

de Guadalupe). Opaque in color, with smoky 

aromas of bacon, berry purée, latex and dried herbs. 

Feels saturated and grapy, with big, plodding tannins 

in front of soft, stewed flavors of blackberry and prune. 

Darkens up on what amounts to a soft finish. Pure Grenache. 



86 

Mogor Badan 2009 Red (Valle de Guadalupe). 

This is slightly stalky and burnt smelling, 

with briary aromas. It feels choppy, with roasted fla- 

vors of plum and berry. It finishes with the same herbal, 

Bordeaux-style flavors that give the palate an Old World 

character. Not as good as the 2008. Baja Wines LLC. 

—M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $35 

86 

Tres Valles 2009 Elegancia Shiraz (Valle 

de Guadalupe). Dense cherry, plum and 

black currant aromas carry a note of latex as well as bacon. 

Feels fiery and powerful, not elegant or lifted, with 

untamed, slightly syrupy flavors of plum, berry, chocolate 

and cough medicine. Powerful Shiraz that seems 

more boozy than its listed 14% abv. Baja Wines LLC. 

—M.S. 


85 

Lafarga 2008 Equinoccio Nebbiolo (Valle 

de Guadalupe). Dense, heavy and meaty on 

the nose, this has stewed plum and earth notes. Heavy 

tannins make it grabby, while the flavors suggest stewed 

black fruits. Roasted tasting, it hits hard on the finish. 

Entirely different from Italian Nebbiolo. Baja Wines 

LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $45 

84 

Monte Xanic 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Valle de Guadalupe). Smoky, oaky and peppery 

up front, with balsamic berry aromas and tree bark 

notes. It feels thick, creamy and a little awkward, with 

heavy oak flavors, related spice and savory, stewy notes. 

As it unwinds it’s chunky and heavy, with a sweet molasses 

note on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $23 

83 

Tres Valles 2009 Maat Grenache (Valle 

de Guadalupe). Hot and heavy from first 

whiff, this has plastic and red pepper notes, with a sweet 

strawberry aroma. It’s thick as syrup on the palate, with 

extracted, fully ripe flavors of blackberry and raisin. 

Maat means “the land” in a native language; but it could 

mean syrupy sweet. Hard to believe this is just 13.5% 

abv. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $25 

83 

Vinisterra 2008 Dominó (Valle de Guadalupe 

and Santo Tomás). This wine opens 

with pepper, leather and stalky berry aromas. It feels 

sticky in the mouth, with stalky, buttery berry flavors 

that fall off rather quickly. Sweet but that’s about it on 

the finish. Tempranillo, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. 


abv: 13.8% Price: $19 

82 

Emevé 2009 Shiraz (Valle de Guadalupe). 

This has aromas of smashed berry and red licorice 

candy. It feels raspy and resiny, with flavors of toasted 

oak and jammy blueberry and raspberry. It’s wiry and 

lacking finesse on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 


81 

La Escuelita 2008 Txtura 3 Carignan (Valle 

de Guadalupe). Baked and bricky smelling, 

with notes of applesauce and blueberry. It feels 

snappy with edgy tannins. Cranberry and spice flavors 

lead to a scouring finish; 100% Carignan. Baja Wines 

LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $27 

80 

Emevé 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Valle 

de Guadalupe). Briary on the nose, this has 

disjointed aromas of plum, cinnamon and wet cement. 

It’s jumpy, acidic and not very well balanced, with tart 

red-plum and cherry flavors. It feels edgy and gritty, 

with an almost sour finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 13.2% Price: $24 

80 

Vinisterra 2011 Dominó Cinsault (San 

Antonio de las Minas Valley). Slightly sweet 

on the nose, but wheaty and grassy too. It tastes like clay 

and bubble gum, with a touch of peach and citrus. It’s 

acidic on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. 

abv: 12.2% Price: $15 

CALIFORNIA 

CHARDONNAY 

96 

Joseph Phelps 2010 Pastorale Vineyard 

Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Undoubtedly 

the greatest Chardonnay the winery has ever produced, 

this is as rich as any Chardonnay on the market. 

Notes of tropical fruit, green apple and crème brûlée 

mesh with vibrant minerality that’s steely, chalky and 

tangy. Although it tastes of honey, the finish is completely 

dry. This might even develop earthy, nutty complexities 

as it ages. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $75 

94 

Joseph Phelps 2010 Freestone Vineyards 

Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For 


abv: 13.5% Price: $55 

94 

Migration 2010 Dierberg Vineyard Chardonnay 

(Santa Maria Valley). Rich, opulent 

and balanced, this has a wealth of orange and tropical 

fruit flavors, with spicy, caramelly oak and layers of with 

buttered toast and honey. Vibrant coastal acidity provides 

essential lift to this elaborate Chardonnay. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $45 

94 

Parallel 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River 

Valley). So rich, so opulent, this is fantastic 

to enjoy now. It really nails it, with intricate flavors of 

buttered toast, butterscotch, honey and vanilla that ride 

high on top of the pineapple and tropical fruit flavors. 

The winery is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, but 

with this release, it’s competing at the highest level of 

quality Chardonnay. —S.H. 

abv: 15.2% Price: $48 

93 

Baldacci 2010 Sorelle Chardonnay 

(Carneros). For full review see page 5. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $38 

93 

Marimar Estate 2008 Dobles Lías Don 

Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian 

River Valley). For full review see page 5. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $45 

93 

Matanzas Creek 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma 

County). Unbelievably rich, this tastes 

pretty much as excellent as the winery’s more expensive 

Chardonnays. It really dazzles with its complex flavors 

of tropical fruit, green apple, pear, buttered toast and 


honey. It’s all brightened by terrific acidity and wrapped 

into a creamy texture. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $26 

93 

Migration 2010 Split Rail Vineyard Chardonnay 

(Anderson Valley). With rich, honeyed 

flavors of apricots and oranges, this flashy, dramatic 

Chardonnay seemingly tastes as sweet as a pastry, but 

the amazing thing is that it’s actually dry. It’s brisk in 

coastal acidity, with complex nuances of toasty oak and a 

creamy mouthfeel. For drinking now. —S.H. 

abv: 13.7% Price: $45 

93 

Shafer 2010 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay 

(Carneros). Another terrific offering 

from Shafer, this is a wine that seems to do well regardless 

of the vintage. It always shows a firm minerality and 

slight herbaceousness, with tropical fruit flavors and a 

smoky coating of fine oak. It’s a shade less opulent than 

the 2009, making this very elegant and refined, yet still 

rich and complex. Don’t drink it too cold—airing brings 

out subtle nuances. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $48 

93 

Thomas Fogarty 2009 Damiana Vineyard 

Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa Cruz 

Mountains). This vineyard has been source to some of 

Fogarty’s greatest Chardonnays, and this 2009 bottling 

continues the tradition of excellence. It’s bone dry and 

tart in acidity, with smoky oak and lees influences. But 

the real star of the wine is the fruit; the flavors of lemon 

and lime custard, papaya, guava and nectarine are delicious. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $50 

93 

Thomas Fogarty 2009 Portola Springs 

Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay 

(Santa Cruz Mountains). The closest thing in California 

you can get to a great French Chablis, this is absolutely 

dry, high in acidity and streamlined. It offers 

tantalizing citrus rind and peach fruit flavors, with a savory 

taste of cold minerals. Fans of rich, buttery Chardonnay 

will find it lean, but if you have a cellar, age it 

for six years and see how it evolves. Cellar Selection. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $50 

92 

Houdini 2010 Dean Block Chardonnay 

(Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. Editors’ 

Choice. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $25 

92 

Migration 2010 Chardonnay (Russian 

River Valley). For full review see page 6. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $30 

92 

Migration 2010 Charles Heintz Vineyard 

Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Showing the 

richness of the vineyard, this delivers huge, flamboyant 

flavors of apricot and tangerine jam. While it’s technically 

dry, there’s a honeyed sweetness that suggests a touch 

of botrytis. It’s a strong wine, unafraid to command a 

boldness that may not be for everyone. This is distinctly 

Californian in style, and as it loses fruit with age, it will 

develop nut and earthy notes. —S.H. 

abv: 13.6% Price: $55 


92 

Pessagno 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 



abv: 14.8% Price: $32 

92 

Pessagno 2009 Intrinity Chardonnay 

(Santa Lucia Highlands). Pessagno’s Chardonnays 

are always big and strong wines, as befits their 

growing conditions in the cool foothills of the coastal 

Monterey mountains. This is monumental in fruit, 

bursting at the seams with ripe apricots and tangerines, 

sweetened with honey, yet finishing dry. It’s a wine to 

pair with elaborate fare. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $45 

92 

Robert Mondavi 2010 Reserve Chardonnay 

(Carneros). This bottling always strives 

to avoid a heavy hand and express more of a terroirdriven 

Chardonnay. This is bone dry, tart in mouthwatering 

acidity and complex in citrus, tropical fruit and herb 

flavors. It’s not an opulent attention getter, but instead 

prefers to seduce through subtlety and nuance. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

92 

Stephen Ross 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyards 

Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). 

Delicious and crisp in acidity, this is dry despite its flavors 

of honey and ripe, jammy tropical fruit. How this 

wine achieves such a quality is magic, but the brisk acidity 

helps, as does its stony minerality. Ready to enjoy 

now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $32 

92 

Thomas Fogarty 2009 Albutom Vineyard 

Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa Cruz 

Mountains). Some will find this Chardonnay severe 

and lacking in richness as it’s marked by dryness, minerality 

and acidity, rather than tropical fruit and sweet 

oak.It would not be surprising if this wine made gains 

in 5–6 years, but even if it doesn’t, it defines a more 

elegant style. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $50 

92 

Thomas Fogarty 2009 Langley Hill Vineyard 

Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa 

Cruz Mountains). Fogarty continues its streak of 

great, Chablis-style Chardonnays with this single-vineyard 

bottling. True afficionados will love the dryness, 

acidity and minerality, which give it such great structure. 

The severity is relieved by flavors of citrus zest 

and white peach, and the creamy sourdough richness 

imparted by lees aging. Try aging it for at least six years. 

—S.H. 


92 

White Oak 2010 Estate Grown Chardonnay 

(Russian River Valley). For full review 

see page 7. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $24 

92 

Windstream 2010 Sarmento Vineyard 


Insanely rich, this explodes in the mouth with orange, 

pineapple, apricot, tropical fruit and sweet new-oak flavors. 

The richness is tempered with crisp acidity and a 

minerality that tastes like a lick of cold steel. This is a 

good price for a Santa Lucia Chardonnay this rich and 

appealing. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

91 

Cuvaison 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). 

The winery strikes a happy balance between 

richness and elegant austerity with this bone-dry offering. 

It’s minerally and reserved, offering intriguing 

hints of apricots and tropical fruits, with notes of 

buttered toast and smoky vanilla of new oak that many 

Chardonnay lovers crave. With 29,000 cases produced, 

this should be relatively easy to find. Editors’ Choice. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $23 

91 

Gloria Ferrer 2009 Estate Chardonnay 

(Carneros). For full review see page 7. Editors’ 

Choice. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $18 

91 

Saracina 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay 

(Mendocino County). With a very pretty 

nose of perfumed pear, green apple and lime, this unoaked 

Chardonnay is nicely soft and easy to drink. Made 

from organic Chardonnay and a touch of Viognier, this 

smells and tastes of summer. Even without a hint of oak 

this retains plenty of richness and a fresh vibrancy on 

the finish. —V.B. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $18 

90 

Riverbench 2011 Bedrock Chardonnay 

(Santa Maria Valley). This never went 

through malolactic fermentation, resulting in a beautiful, 

food-friendly offering. First noticed is the brisk 

acidity that’s like a squeeze of sweet Meyer lemon, 

brightening the tropical fruit and pear flavors. Then the 

wine’s intensity and complexity sink in, leading to a long, 

spicy finish. Pair this with Asian fare. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $24 

90 

Saxon Brown 2009 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay 

(Sonoma Coast). This is a very rich, 

elaborate Chardonnay, detailed with pineapple, pear, 

and apricot flavors, and a coating of sweetly smoked, 

vanilla-tinged oak. The acidity is brisk and fine. It’s complex 

and impressive, yet its high alcohol and some overripeness 

suggest that it’s not ageable—drink up. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $48 

90 

Sonoma-Loeb 2010 Envoy Chardonnay 

(Russian River Valley). This is the winery’s 

most expensive Chardonnay, and it’s also easily their 

best. It shows the ripe, flashy opulence that makes 

Chardonnay America’s favorite white, with an array of 

pineapple and orange pie flavors. Beyond the richness, 

there’s good acidity and a clean, brisk finish. Drink now. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $49 

90 

Von Holt 2010 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay 

(Sonoma Coast). Flavors of toasty oak, 

butter cream, ripe tangerine and pear combine in this 

dry, pleasantly complex effort. It’s properly brisk in acidity, 

with a long, spicy finish of pie spice and vanilla bean 

notes. Don’t drink it too cold. —S.H. 

abv: 13.2% Price: $35

89 

Joullian 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 


This shows the two classic markers of this vineyard: 

brisk, mouthwatering acidity and superripe flavors. 

The orange and peach notes meld with an apricot tone, 

which may have a touch of botrytis, lending a hint of 

honey. For all the richness, it’s bone dry and minerally. 

Lovely now, but these Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnays 

age interestingly, gradually losing fruit and 

gaining nut and earthy notes. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $33 

89 

Stephen Ross 2010 Chardonnay (Santa 

Barbara County). Rich, forward and delicious, 

this has pineapple and peach jam flavors, with 

elaborate notes of buttered toast and caramel from the 

oak aging. It finishes dry. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $24 

88 

Amos Cellars 2010 Churner Chardonnay 

(Central Coast). Crisp and lean, with mineral, 

lemon and ripe grapefruit flavors, this is enriched with a 

sweet note of honey. The acidity is keen, and while the 

wine is a little severe, it’s so elegant. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $24 

88 

Joullian 2010 RogerRose Vineyard Chardonnay 

(Arroyo Seco). Fine acidity, dryness 

and a cold minerality undergird the tropical fruit flavors, 

making it particularly likeable and food friendly. 

It showcases the ability of this little appellation in the 

middle of the Salinas Valley, just below the Santa Lucia 

Highlands, to ripen white wines. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $29 

88 

Justin 2011 Chardonnay (Central Coast). 

Bone dry, acidic and subtle in citrus and tropical 

fruit flavors, this is a Chardonnay that doesn’t insist on 

standing on its own. Instead, it’s perfectly content to let 

the food star, remaining in a supporting role. For pairings, 

lobster risotto comes to mind, or just a delicious 

mayonnaise-based sandwich. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $19 

88 

Shale Canyon 2010 Chardonnay (Arroyo 

Seco). Brisk acidity and a steely, minerally dryness 

make this Chardonnay particularly savory. The citrus 

flavors suggest limes and Meyer lemons, with suggestions 

of toast and vanilla. It’s an elegant wine and easily 

worth the price. —S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $20 

88 

The Federalist 2010 Chardonnay (Russian 

River Valley). Here’s a racy, chiseled 

Chardonnay, with a pleasant veneer of smoky, buttered 

toast from new oak that enriches the lime and peach 

fruit. Elegant rather than powerful, it’s a food-friendly 

wine. Try with lobster risotto. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $25 

87 

Artesa 2010 Estate Reserve Chardonnay 

(Carneros). This oozes with sweet oak, honey 

and buttered toast flavors, with added notes of pineapple 

cream and peach jam. Few Chardonnays are this 

opulent; it will have its fans among those who love this 

style. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $30 

87 

Dierberg 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Maria 

Valley). Ripe and oaky, this offers the sweet 

fruit and buttered toast flavors Chardonnay lovers 

crave. It tastes like a candy bar, with pineapple, mango, 

roasted almond and honeyed granola flavors, all brightened 

with crisp acidity. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $32 

87 

Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Foggy Oaks 

Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Some 

new oak lends a sweet, smoky edge of buttered toast to 

this ripe Chardonnay. Its pineapple and pear flavors are 

highlighted by crisp acidity. —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $20 

87 

Icaria 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Alexander 

Valley). This has everything that many 

people love about Chardonnay: It’s creamy, buttery 

and toasty, with sweet tropical fruit and pear flavors. It’s 

pretty flashy. —S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $18 

87 

Jason-Stephens 2010 Estate Select 

Chardonnay (Santa Clara Valley). This 

is the oaked version of Jason-Stephens’s estate-grown 

Chardonnay. It’s rich and deep, yet still smooth, with 

the grape’s trademark apple crispness. The finish lingers 

with an apple pie note. —V.B. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $30 

87 

MacPhail 2010 Gap’s Crown Vineyard 

Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This shows 

the apricot jam richness often found in California’s 

cool-climate vineyards. There may even be a touch of 

botrytis, although the wine is thoroughly dry. It’s brisk in 

acidity and well-oaked; big and rich, it’s almost a cocktail 

by itself. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $45 

87 

Stephen Ross 2010 Chardonnay (Edna 

Valley). This is rich and appealing in orange 

and lemon marmalade and buttered toast flavors. It’s 

delicious, balanced by crisp acidity and minerality. A 

flashy wine worth drinking now for its freshness and vicacity. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $24 

87 

Wayne Gretzky Estates 2010 No. 99 Chardonnay 

(Sonoma County). The price is very 

good for what you get: a dry, creamy Chardonnay, with 

tropical fruit, vanilla and buttered toast flavors. A good 

job by the ice hockey great. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $14 

86 

Fleur 2010 Chardonnay (North Coast). A 

solid Chardonnay, this is dry, rich and creamy, 

with lemon, lime and tropical fruit flavors. A touch of 

oak brings a nice note of buttered toast. —S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $13 

86 

Jason-Stephens 2010 Estate Chardonnay 

(Santa Clara Valley). This is a stainlesssteel-aged 

Chardonnay with splendid streaks of lemon, 

honey and kiwi that surround a core of tart apple. It’s balanced 

with good acidity that greets you on the entrance 

and on the finish. —V.B. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $20 

86 

Lockwood 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey 

County). This has slender flavors of tangerine 

and peach. It’s elegantly dry, clean and brisk in acidity, 

with a light touch of smoky oak—definitely worth the 

price. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

86 

McManis 2011 Chardonnay (River Junction). 


abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

86 

Riverbench 2010 Estate Grown Chardonnay 

(Santa Maria Valley). This is a fairly simple 

wine. Although it’s rich in apricot, orange and tropical 

fruit flavors, not to mention oak, it’s a little overripe 

and seemingly sweet. The vanilla and buttered toast flavors 

will appeal to many. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $26 

86 

Stemmler 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). 

Sweet oak and buttered toast flavors dominate 

this Chardonnay. Underneath there are flavors of pineapple, 

pear and orange. It’s rich, dry and bright in acidity. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $34 

86 

Walt 2010 La Brisa Chardonnay (Sonoma 

County). This is pretty standard, with good 

acidity pervading tropical fruit flavors. There’s a rich 

overlay of sweet oak. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $35 

86 

William Hill Estate 2010 Chardonnay 

(Napa Valley). Rich and buttery, this has 

smoky oak and toast flavors that frame the pineapple 

and orange jam notes. Not overly complicated, this is 

made in a way that appeals to Chardonnay lovers. Production 

was a hefty 16,500 cases. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

85 

Cable Car 2010 Chardonnay (Lodi). For 

full review see page 12. Best Buy. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

85 

Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Estate Bottled 

Chardonnay (Edna Valley). New oak stands 

out in this slightly sweet Chardonnay, giving a butterscotch 

taste to the pineapple and fig fruit. It has pleasant 

acidity. —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $28 

85 

Five Rows 2011 Chardonnay (California). 

There’s lots of sweet oak in this wine, with dominant 

flavors of buttered toast, buttered popcorn and vanilla. 

Underneath there’s some nice apricot and tangerine 

fruit. —S.H. 

abv: 13.1% Price: $14 

85 

Gracianna 2011 Suzanne’s Blend Chardonnay 

(Russian River Valley). This tastes 

a little vegetal, but it’s dry, crisp and creamy, with decent 

orange and peach flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $34 

85 

House Band NV Chardonnay (California). 


abv: 13.8% Price: $5/375 ml 


85 

Kunde 2010 Kinneybrook Vineyard Chardonnay 

(Sonoma Valley). Seemingly sweet 

and oaky, this has buttered popcorn, buttered toast and 

caramel cream flavors. The fruit suggests pineapples 

and pears. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $24 

85 

Sean Minor 2010 Chardonnay (Central 

Coast). There’s lots of zesty acidity in this ripe, 

forward Chardonnay. It features fruity flavors of oranges 

and apricots, with a touch of oak that lends a buttered 

toast note. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $14 

84 

Arrow Creek 2011 Coastal Series Chardonnay 

(California). Modest orange and 

peach flavors are found in this oak-tinged wine. It offers 

the Chardonnay lover good pleasure. —S.H. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $18 

84 

Black Box 2011 Chardonnay (California). 

A good Chardonnay to serve at parties, this 

shows plenty of oak-driven vanilla and toast flavors that 

ride high over the seemingly sweet note of pineapple 

candy. It will satisfy lots of Chardophiles, at an affordable 

price. Best Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L 

84 

Chime 2010 Chardonnay (Napa County). 

Simple and strongly flavored, this is powerful in 

pear, vanilla and buttered toast notes. There’s not much 

subtlety, but it will satisfy fans of this style. —S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $19 

84 

Hess Collection 2010 Chardonnay (Napa 

Valley). A simple Chardonnay, this seems 

sweet in pineapple and peach jam notes, with buttered 

toast and honey flavors from oak. Flashy, but onedimensional. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $22 

84 

Matchbook 2010 Old Head Chardonnay 

(Dunnigan Hills). This crisp Chardonnay has 

a disjointedness about it. Its aroma and flavor is most 

akin to Lemonheads candy. —V.B. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $15 

84 

Newton 2009 Unfiltered Chardonnay 

(Napa County). There’s a nice Chardonnay 

down underneath all the oak, but it’s hard to find below 

the buttered toast and caramel richness. It would 

be nice to taste an unoaked version, to appreciate the 

acidity and pineapple fruit. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $60 

84 

San Simeon 2009 Chardonnay (Monterey). 

Extracted and oaky, this will appeal to 

those who enjoy the popular style. It’s strong in buttered 

toast and butterscotch flavors, with a pineapple 

jam note. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $18 

83 

Greystone 2011 Chardonnay (California). 

An everyday Chardonnay, this has buttered 

toast, butterscotch candy and pineapple flavors. 

It’s clean and brisk in acidity. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $11 


82 

J. Wilkes 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Maria 

Valley). Seemingly overly oaked and manipulated, 

this is all about buttered toast and buttered 

popcorn flavors, slathered over a note of pineapple jam. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $18 

82 

Lost Angel 2010 Chardonnay (California). 

Seemingly sweet and simple, this has orange 

and butterscotch candy flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

81 

Snapping Turtle 2011 Chardonnay (California). 

Simple and seemingly sweet, this 

Chardonnay has apricot jam flavors. —S.H. 


VIOGNIER 

91 

Chalk Hill 2010 Viognier (Chalk Hill). This 

is a rich, flamboyant Viognier, showing lots of 

ripe, fruity flavors and a nice burst of acidity. It’s high 

in alcohol, which gives some prickly heat, but the pineapple 

custard, tangerine and crème brûlée flavors are 

frankly delicious. —S.H. 

abv: 15.5% Price: $40/375 ml 

88 

10 Knots 2010 Viognier (Paso Robles). 

Textbook Viognier—this is ripe and exotic in 

tropical fruit, white flower and honey flavors. It’s technically 

dry, but so rich you’d swear there was some 

residual sugar. With its strong texture and full body, this 

is an interesting alternative to a big Chardonnay. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $22 

87 

Wattle Creek 2010 Viognier (Alexander 

Valley). Showing the rich, exotic side of Viognier, 

this has ripe, flamboyant flavors of tropical fruit, 

white flower and spice. It has a controlled dryness and 

citrusy acidity; this is a lovely, versatile white. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $24 

82 

Cline 2011 Viognier (North Coast). This 

seems designed to appeal to the Moscato-loving 

crowd. It has sweet flavors, with apricot and tangerine 

notes that taste like fruit juice. —S.H. 


RIESLING 

89 

Pessagno 2010 La Estancia Vineyard 

Riesling (Santa Lucia Highlands). This 

is one of the best California Rieslings available in this 

price range. It’s bone dry and mouthwateringly acidic, 

with racy citrus flavors and a tart, tannic tang of apple 

skin. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $16 

88 

Wente 2010 Riverbank Riesling (Arroyo 

Seco). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $13 

87 

Santa Barbara Winery 2010 Lafond Vineyard 

Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). This falls 

right in the middle of the winery’s dry and sweet Rieslings, 

with a suggestion of honey to the apricot, tanger- 

ine and vanilla flavors. It would be a wonderful companion 

to modern Asian fare. —S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $15 

87 

Santa Barbara Winery 2009 Lafond Vineyard 

Dry Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). This is, 

as the label says, a dry Riesling, but it’s not without richness. 

With lemon, lime, apricot and Asian pear flavors, 

it has wonderful acidity. It would be great with today’s 

complex Asian-fusion fare. —S.H. 

abv: 13.4% Price: $18 

85 

Hacienda 2010 Riesling (California). 

Crisp acidity gives this off-dry Riesling just the 

edge of tartness it needs to balance out the sweet citrus 

and flower flavors. It’s the perfect inexpensive summer 

picnic white wine. Best Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

84 

Black Box 2011 Riesling (California). This 

is a very nice Riesling for drinking with today’s 

ethnic fare. Although it’s softer than you’d expect from 

this normally tart varietal, it’s clean and spicy, with citrus, 

flower and honey flavors. The sweetness level is offdry. 

Best Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 12% Price: $25/3 L 

83 

Coastal Ridge 2010 Riesling (California). 

If you like your white wines fruity and sweet, 

this one’s for you. It has pretty flavors of peaches, honey 

and spices. —S.H. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $9 

82 

ForestVille 2010 Riesling (California). 

Sweet, soft and simple, this has candied lemon 

and pineapple flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $7 

SAUVIGNON BLANC 

93 

Robert Mondavi 2010 To Kalon Vineyard 

Reserve Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley). A gorgeous 

Sauvignon Blanc, so rich and refined. It’s almost 

as full bodied as a Chardonnay, with dense flavors of 

citrus and tropical fruits, gooseberries and minerals, 

but with that sleek, bone-dry, acidic refinement expected 

from this variety. Production was a mere 984 cases. 

Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

92 

Cosa Obra 2011 Hummingbird Hill Vineyard 

Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast). 


abv: 13.9% Price: $24 

90 

Robert Mondavi 2010 Fumé Blanc (Napa 

Valley). Fumé Blanc is just another name for 

Sauvignon Blanc, and this is a delicious one. Dry and 

racy in acidity, it has deep citrus, tropical fruit and gooseberry 

flavors. At this price, it’s one of the best Sauvignon 

Blancs on the market. Relatively easy to find, with more 

than 30,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $19 

89 

Casey Flat Ranch 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 

(Capay Valley). From Casey Flat’s 2,000-feethigh 

estate near Sacramento, this is a creamy, volup-

tuous Sauvignon Blanc that has reams of texture. It retains 

a lot of acidity and is rich and fruity, with a seamless 

midpalate. Its richness comes from extended skin 

contact and lees stirring. —V.B. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $23 

88 

Bell 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). 

Light, fruity and clean, this was aged in all 

stainless steel, showing delicious tones of tangerine and 

lemon peel and a crisp, long finish, with a soft touch all 

around. —V.B. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $22 

88 

Casey Flat Ranch 2011 Open Range Sauvignon 

Blanc (California). Sourced from 

both Mendocino and Lake counties, this is Casey Flat 

Ranch’s accessible, affordable Sauvignon Blanc. Full of 

bright tropical fruit and lemon aromas, this is true to the 

varietal, with plenty of acidity to match well with food. 

An addition of 5% Viognier is blended in. —V.B. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $15 

88 

Matanzas Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 

(Bennett Valley). There’s a touch of honeyed 

sweetness to this wine that gives it a softly appealing 

taste. The orange, apricot, tropical fruit and vanilla flavors 

are absolutely delicious, while there’s just enough 

acidity to lift and balance the richness. —S.H. 

abv: 13.1% Price: $30 

88 

Matanzas Creek 2011 Helena Bench 

Sauvignon Blanc (Knights Valley). There’s 

no oak at all on this Sauvignon Blanc, which lets the 

fruit stand front and center. It’s good fruit, too, rich in 

apricots, tangerines and tropical fruits, with a good cut 

of acidity. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

88 

Pomelo 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (California). 

This is a large-production Sauvignon 

Blanc that tastes delicious. If you like grapefruit and 

pomelo flavors, you will love this enticingly priced white 

that’s got razor sharp acidity, a touch of New Zealandlike 

grass and a long finish. Best Buy. —V.B. 


88 

Saracina 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino 

County). A full and creamy style of 

Sauvignon Blanc, this has a lot of dense almond and 

vanilla notes set against high tones of bright peach and 

flint. With its great, fresh acidity, it will hold up against 

an appetizer like goat cheese on crackers. —V.B. 

abv: 13.6% Price: $23 

88 

Shed Horn Cellars 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 

(Lake County). This Sauvignon Blanc opens 

with beautiful flowery aromas. It’s crisp and complex, 

bearing intense notes of grapefruit and mineral, with a 

kick of lime on the finish. This would go very well with 

seafood or spicy Thai. —V.B. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $15 

87 

Duckhorn 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa 

Valley). With vibrant acidity and a keen taste of 

mineral—like a lick of cold steel—this Sauvignon Blanc 

is also rich in citrus and tropical fruit flavors. A touch 

of oak and lees aging imparts a creamy, smoky yeasti- 

ness. More importantly, it has a seemingly sweet finish, 

so pair accordingly with appropriate fare. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $29 

87 

Gregory Graham 2011 Windrem Vineyards 

Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). 

Working with a new vineyard source, Gregory Graham 

has made a sweetly perfumed white, with pretty grapefruit 

and lime notes. Its well-integrated and layered 

with flavor. —V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

87 

Lockwood 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey 

County). This is a stylish wine for a 

cocktail sipper or to drink with foods ranging from fried 

chicken to sushi. It’s crisp in coastal acidity and ripe in 

citrus, melon and tropical fruit flavors. While there’s a 

taste of honey, it finishes dry. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

87 

Maddalena 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso 

Robles). Bone dry and tart in acidity, this has 

mouthwatering citrus and apricot flavors, with a clean 

elegance. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $15 

87 

Matanzas Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 

(Sonoma County). This tastes like a slightly 

sweet lemon-, orange- and mango-juice drink, with lots 

of citrusy acidity and a pleasant burn of alcohol. Delicious 

and savory, it will be a good companion to Asian 

fare. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

87 

Rock Wall 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake 

County). This smells of lemon cream and pear, 

with dark, ripe and creamy layers of vanilla and fig, and 

a nuttiness, too. Stainless-steel fermented, it’s a lovely 

example of how this variety thrives in Lake County. 

—V.B. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $18 

87 

Shooting Star 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 

(Lake County). Full of fig and grapefruit 

flavor, this was never aged in oak. A small addition of 

Sémillon adds to its richness and long finish. —V.B. 

abv: 13.2% Price: $12 

87 

Six Sigma 2011 Asbill Valley Sauvignon 

Blanc (Lake County). With lilting lemon, 

grapefruit and pretty pineapple aromas and flavors, this 

is a good example of Lake County Sauvignon Blanc. It’s 

light and bright, and the flavors on the finish veer into 

equally pleasing peach and apricot notes, with a touch 

of almond. —V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $16 

87 

Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2011 Laguna 

Vista Vineyards Sur Lees Selection Sauvignon 

Blanc (Sonoma Coast). This wine’s greenness 

shows that it’s not quite ripe, but it’s an interesting 

wine. Dry, racy and creamy, this is not without complexity. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $20 

87 

Vigilance 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Red 

Hills Lake County). Balanced and affordable, 

this is an example of a straightforward, well-nourished 

Sauvignon Blanc, bursting with stone fruit and melon 

flavors, with Lake County’s typical hints of lemongrass 

and pear—particularly on the finish. —V.B. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $20 

86 

Carr 2011 Dos Viñedos Sauvignon Blanc 

(Santa Ynez Valley). This shows the racy 

crispness and clean profile of Santa Ynez Sauvignon 

Blancs, with delicious tropical fruit and citrus flavors. 

However, it seems to have some sweetness, which 

makes it taste a little like fruit juice. —S.H. 


86 

Geyser Peak 2011 Block Collection River 

Ranches Sauvignon Blanc (Russian 

River Valley). Perhaps this wine could be drier, as the 

orange and apricot flavors seem to finish with a touch 

of sweetness. Still, it’s clean and brisk in acidity. This 

should pair well with slightly sweet Asian fare. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

86 

Girard 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). 

Clean and savory, this has jammy orange 

and apricot flavors, which finish with a touch of honey. 

The acidity is bright and zesty. The chilly vintage shows 

in the form of a touch of green mint. —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $16 

86 

Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Sauvignon 

Blanc (Livermore Valley). A straightforward 

Sauvignon Blanc, this has hints of cheese rind 

and lemon swirling within fistfuls of minerality that may 

need more time to settle down. But Occasio is a name to 

trust, and it should develop more flair with a bit of bottle 

age and/or air. —V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

86 

Provenance Vineyards 2011 Sauvignon 

Blanc (Rutherford). This is rich in citrus and 

tropical fruits, with bright acidity that really cleans the 

palate. It seems to tread the line between dry and offdry, 

and it shows real elegance. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $22 

86 

Provenance Vineyards 2011 Wildwood 

Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). 

If you’re into dry table wines, you should know this 

seems to have a touch of sweetness. It has orange, apricot 

and vanilla flavors that are fortunately brightened 

with crisp acidity. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

86 

Wattle Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 

(York ville Highlands). With layers of nutty, 

toasty oak flavors lingering in the background, this is a 

Sauvignon Blanc with lushness to its core of melon, guava 

and grass notes. —V.B. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $15 

86 

Wildhurst 2011 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 

(Lake County). With no time spent in oak, 

this bright, simple Sauvignon Blanc has pear, grapefruit 

and gooseberry notes and a quick finish. —V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $14 

85 

Bogle 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (California). 

Easy to drink, with plenty of charm, this 


shows orange, lime and tropical fruit flavors, brightened 

with crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

85 

Chacewater 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake 

County). Made from organically grown grapes, 

this crisp white flirts dangerously with herb and grass 

tones—what is often called gooseberry—before settling 

down. It’s quite drinkable, if a bit heavy on the finish. 

—V.B. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $14 

85 

Clos du Lac 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Amador 

County). Opening with a bouquet of dried 

apricot and almond paste, this is a full style of Sauvignon 

Blanc, with tons of lemon on the finish. Pair this with 

seafood. Best Buy. —V.B. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $10 

85 

Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Sauvignon 

Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). With no oak, what 

you taste is the purity of the grapes. It’s a good Sauvignon 

Blanc, dry and crisp in acidity, with streamlined 

lime and grapefruit flavors, with a hint of sweet pea. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $16 

85 

Frog’s Leap 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 

(Rutherford). A simple Sauvignon Blanc, this 

is dry and mouthwateringly tart. The lemon and lime 

flavors have a green edge of gooseberry. —S.H. 

abv: 12.6% Price: $20 

85 

Provenance Vineyards 2011 Estate 

Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). 

Nice and crisp in acidity, with a brisk, clean mouthfeel, 

this houses citrus and tropical fruit flavors. It seems a 

little sweet, so don’t expect anything too dry. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $32 

85 

Robledo 2011 Seven Brothers Sauvignon 

Blanc (Lake County). This is a slightly 

sweet Sauvignon Blanc that’s shy on the nose, without 

much depth or breadth. —V.B. 

abv: 13.3% Price: $22 

84 

Guenoc 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake 

County). Guenoc and Langtry, its parent company, 

have made some great Sauvignon Blancs in their 

time, showcasing Lake County’s good fortune with this 

grape. This is a good effort, with a prevailing pineapple 

note. —V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $16 

84 

hy.brid 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). This 

100% stainless-steel-aged Sauvignon Blanc has 

a crisp, herbal mouthfeel, with a melon-like brightness. 

Just a touch of green pepper and jalapeño muddle the 

finish. Best Buy. —V.B. 

abv: 12.8% Price: $8 

84 

Pine and Brown 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 

(Napa Valley). A simple little Sauvignon 

Blanc, this is sweet and soft, with savory pineapple and 

lemon jam flavors. Oak brings a touch of vanilla and buttered 

toast. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $30 


84 

Sterling 2011 Vintner’s Collection Sauvignon 

Blanc (Central Coast). This gets the 

job done with classic varietal flavors of lemon, lime and 

savory green grass, as well as tart acidity to get those 

tastebuds watering. There’s an off-dry taste of honey, 

but the wine is basically dry. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $13 

84 

White Oak 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian 

River Valley). If you like tart, less-thanripe 

Sauvignon Blanc, you’ll enjoy this one. It’s acidic, 

but relieved by lemon, lime and honey flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $16 

83 

Decoy 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma 

County). Dry and acidic, this has citrus and 

green peppercorn flavors that are barely ripe. If you like 

the lean style, this is for you. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

83 

Sean Minor 2010 Four Bears Sauvignon 

Blanc (Sonoma County). With lots of acidity 

and seemingly sweet lime, pineapple and tropical fruit 

flavors, this Sauvignon Blanc has a sweet-sour taste, like 

Life Savers candy. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $14 

82 

Ancient Peaks 2011 Sauvignon Blanc 

(Paso Robles). This wine seems unripe, and 

while it’s nicely dry and crisp, it has an aggressive aroma 

and flavor of tart lime. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $14 

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO 

88 

Benessere 2010 Pinot Grigio (Carneros). 

Zesty acidity and tantalizing citrus and spice flavors 

mark this Pinot Grigio. Nice to drink on its own as 

an apéritif, this versatile wine will also pair with ethnic 

fare —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $22 

87 

J Vineyards & Winery 2011 Pinot Gris 

(California). There’s a sweet, orange and apricot 

jamminess to this Pinot Gris that will appeal to fans 

of the style. It’s brisk in acidity, gaining additional pleasure 

from its creamy richness. Try pairing this with a 

buttery omelet with ham. —S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $15 

86 

Black Box 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). 

A wonderful Pinot Grigio that’s basically dry and 

mouthwateringly crisp in acidity, with lemon and lime 

flavors. Best Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $25/3 L 

WHITE BLENDS 

91 

Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard 

Chardonnay-Albariño (Russian River 

Valley). For full review see page 8. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $28 

85 

Peirano 2009 The Other White (Lodi). This 

Lodi-grown blend of 65% Chardonnay, 25% 

Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Viognier smells of marshmallow, 

coconut and bubble gum. —V.B. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $12 

84 

Lost Angel 2009 Ruckus White (California). 

Made from a bunch of different varieties, 

including Viognier and Pinot Grigio, this white blend 

is off-dry, with a sweet edge to the orange and peach 


abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

84 

LoveThisLife 2009 White (California). 

Made to appeal to the modern taste for sweetness, 

this blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and 

Viognier is simple in jammy apricot, citrus and tropical 

fruit flavors. It has bright acidity, which helps balance 

it. —S.H. 

abv: 13.2% Price: $13 

83 

San Antonio 2010 Heritage Blanc (Central 

Coast). This is a simple wine, ripe in orange 

and pineapple flavors, with fine Central Coast 

acidity. It seems sweet, like a cookie, appealing to those 

who enjoy this style. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $18 

82 

Farrier 2009 Andiron Semillon-Sauvignon 

Blanc (Alexander Valley). Slender 

and simple, this has a green asparagus flavor that thins 

the citrus and pear notes. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

82 

Rare NV 4 Grape Blend White Wine (California). 

This seems so sweet, you could almost 

classify it as a dessert wine. It has simple orange, pineapple 

and vanilla flavors. —S.H. 


81 

Kenwood 2011 Vintage White (Sonoma 

County). It’s hard to fall in love with this blend 

of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It has unripe 

green flavors that border on ammonia. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $9 


92 

Chappellet 2010 Signature Chenin Blanc 

(Napa Valley). Racy and brisk, clean and tart, 

this shows Meyer lemon, lime, white peach, mineral 

and white pepper aromas. Thankfully, it’s very dry in 

taste, with exotic tropical-fruit, cashew and white flower 

flavors wrapped into a creamy, smoky mouthfeel. One 

of the best California Chenin Blancs in recent years. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $30 

91 

La Sirena 2011 Moscato Azul (Napa Valley-Paso 

Robles). Winemaker Heidi Barrett 

was making Moscato way before the current craze started, 

so you can call her a visionary. Her 2011, an unusual 

blend of fruit from Napa Valley and Paso Robles, is a 

real crowd pleaser. Tasted in May of 2012, it’s a little 

spritzy, which gives a nice, clean edge to the orange, 

vanilla and white flower flavors. While it’s dry, there’s 

a rich edge of honey. The alcohol is a refeshingly low 

12.8% by volume. —S.H. 

abv: 12.8% Price: $30

88 

Y Rousseau 2011 Old Vines Colombard 

(Russian River Valley). This wine is strong 

in acidity and green, mouthwatering gooseberry flavors. 

It’s so dry, your palate seeks out whatever fruity relief it 

can find, which comes in the form of limes, green apples 

and a squirt of honey. Very clean and elegant. Editors’ 


abv: 12.8% Price: $18 

87 

J. Wilkes 2011 Pinot Blanc (Santa Maria 

Valley). This affordable bottling is worth seeking 

out. It tastes like of a hybrid of Chardonnay and Sauvignon 

Blanc, with creamy flavors of oranges and limes, 

brightened by crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $12 

87 

Mahoney 2011 Las Brisas Vineyard Vermentino 

(Carneros). What a delicious, 

mouth-watering wine to serve with appetizers. It’s crisp 

in acidity and rich in orange, apricot and peach flavors 

that finish a little sweet. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 


84 

Jacuzzi 2011 Arneis (California). Made in 

a seemingly off-dry style, this offers simple but 

pleasant apricot, peach and white flower flavors, with 

bright acidity. It’s tastes similar to Pinot Grigio in many 

respects. —S.H. 


82 

Balletto 2009 Estate Bottled Gewürztraminer 

(Russian River Valley). This is a soft, 

simple wine. It shows good Gewürztraminer character 

in its spiciness, but it’s mild in flavor, with a sweet finish. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $18 

SPARKLING WINE 

85 

South Coast NV Ruby Cuvée Syrah (Temecula 

Valley). South Coast’s winemaker used 

100% Syrah from the 2010 vintage to make this fun, red 

sparkler, which was once upon a time known as Cold 

Duck. It takes advantage of Syrah’s big, bold berry flavors, 

while smelling intensely sweet, like a Jamba Juice 

smoothie. Very foamy on opening; let it settle and drink 

it supercold. —V.B. 


ROSÉS 

89 

Isabel Mondavi 2011 Deep Rosé of Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). To call this 

rosé deep is an understatement. In color and body, it’s 

almost a red wine. But it does have the silky delicacy of 

a blush wine, and is frankly delicious in cherry jam, red 

licorice and Dr. Pepper flavors. It finishes thoroughly 

dry, and the acidity is racy. —S.H. 

abv: 13.2% Price: $20 

89 

La Clarine Farm 2011 Syrah-Mourvèdre 

Rosé (Sierra Foothills). Winemaker Hank 

Beckmeyer presses Syrah and Mourvèdre to make this 

rosé, hoping that in the process he’ll best preserve the 

wine’s aromas and also keep it tasting fresh. He’s created 

a nutty wine that’s dominant in strawberry and stone 

fruit flavors. It’s very light and dry, leaving you with the 

impression of having just bitten into a piece of watermelon. 

—V.B. 

abv: 12.7% Price: $16 

88 

Miraflores 2011 Estate Barbera Rosé (El 

Dorado). Made from 100% Barbera, this has 

perfumed aromatics and flavors of raspberry and peach. 

It’s sweetness is in check—ideal for food with some 

heat, like Thai or Mexican. —V.B. 

abv: 13.4% Price: $17 

87 

Clos du Lac 2011 Chalaye Rosé (El Dorado 

County). Ruby dark in hue, this has a light 

fruity aroma of watermelon, strawberry and mint. It’s 

easy drinking and dry. Its slow buildup of acidity lingers 

on the finish. Best Buy. —V.B. 

abv: 13.3% Price: $10 

87 

Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Rose 

of Pinot Noir (Livermore Valley). Picked 

underripe, the Pinot Noir grapes for this wine spent no 

time in oak and retained plenty of natural acidity, which 

accents the thick, intense strawberry and cherry-vanilla 

flavors that pop on the midpalate. Finishes with some 

zing, so sip this with or without food. —V.B. 


87 

Rock Wall 2011 Uncle Roget’s Grenache 

Rosé (Yolo County). A wisp of a wine 

that’s dark-salmon in color, this is made entirely from 

Grenache grapes grown near the town of Davis. It’s dry, 

light and fun, offering a strawberry and watermelon 

fruitiness, with a trace of spice on the end. —V.B. 


86 

Field Stone 2011 Heritage Block Rosé of 

Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley). Full bodied 

and rich, as you’d expect a Petite Sirah rosé would 

be, this has cherry and sweet toast flavors, with a certain 

elegance. The winemaker suggests pairing this with sausages. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

86 

Matchbook 2011 Rosé of Tempranillo 

(Dunnigan Hills). A light, dry, and yummy 

wine made from Tempranillo, Syrah and Malbec. It has 

berry and watermelon flavors—even a hint of mint— 

with a balance of acidity and richness on the finish. Best 

Buy. —V.B. 

abv: 13.6% Price: $10 

85 

Chamisal Vineyards 2011 Estate Bottled 

Rosé (Edna Valley). Slightly sweet and heavy 

on the palate, this has raspberry jam and vanilla flavors. 

It’s balanced by crisp Edna Valley acidity—a wine that 

will pair nicely with ham or sausage. —S.H. 


85 

MacPhail 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma 

Coast). A little heavy for a rosé, this 

has jammy raspberry and cola flavors. But it’s nicely 

dry, with crisp acidity. Try with tempura or a juicy hamburger. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

85 

Santa Barbara Winery 2011 Rosé of Syrah 

(Sta. Rita Hills). Here’s a simple rosé, 

dryish and tart in acidity, with savory flavors of cherry 

skin and rose-hip tea, with a squirt of honey. Ham sandwiches 

and sausages come to mind as food companions. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.4% Price: $15 

84 

Curtis 2011 Heritage Rosé (Santa Barbara 

County). This is a ruggedly simple blush 

wine, with lots of acidity and some green tea and dried 

herb flavors. It’s saved by a just-in-time flavor of black 

cherry candy. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $18 

83 

Rare NV 4 Grape Blend Rosé (California). 

Simple and silky, this is fairly sweet in 

apricot and raspberry fruit. This is easy to drink at picnics 

and similar everyday occasions. —S.H. 


CABERNETS & BLENDS 

99 

Colgin 2008 IX Estate Red Wine (Napa 

Valley). This is an absolutely beautiful wine to 

drink now, but the richness comes at the price of considerable 

alcohol. The color is dark and impenetrable, 

the aromas huge in Cabernet-inspired blackberries and 

black currants, with a touch of something herbal and 

also a stony minerality. There’s also a fascinating peatiness, 

like an Islay Scotch. It really opens up in the glass, 

becoming ever more complex. It’s great Napa Valley 

Cabernet Sauvignon, but that high alcohol may limit its 

ageability. —S.H. 

abv: 15.6% Price: $290 

99 

David Arthur 2009 Elevation 1147 Estate 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For 


abv: 14.8% Price: $150 

98 

Von Strasser 2009 Estate Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). 


abv: 14.1% Price: $70 

97 

Gandona 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). A dramatic wine, this is rich, 

full bodied and incredibly complex, laced with notes 

of ripe, sweet blackberries and crème de cassis, with a 

spirituous heat from relatively high alcohol. Its pedigree 

is clear throughout the entire tasting experience. This 

is a really gorgeous Cabernet, showing refinement and 

grace, but it is very tannic. Give it at least 10 years. Cellar 

Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 15.1% Price: $190 

97 

Ovid 2009 Red Wine (Napa Valley). With 

a beautiful purple color, this wine quickly exhibits 

classic Cabernet aromas of black currants and cedar. 

In the mouth, it’s full bodied and concentrated, showing 

powerful, sweet blackberry fruit. It’s incredibly refined, 

impressively structured, massive, impeccable and 

frankly delicious. This should develop over the next 20 

years, at least. —S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $195 

96 

Bryant Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). Rich and smooth in tannins, 

with some sharpness through the finish, this shows 


masses of ripe blackberries and dark chocolate. A bit 

of time in the glass reprises and accentuates the chocolaty 

richness. Despite its power, this is refined and high 

toned, a serious cellar candidate. Give it 10–15 years. 


abv: 15% Price: $335 

96 

Duckhorn 2008 Monitor Ledge Vineyard 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is 

an extraordinarily ripe, flashy Cabernet Sauvignon, one 

of Duckhorn’s new red wines that is among the most impressive 

in years. The wine is densely packed in sweet 

red and black currant fruit, chocolate and licorice flavors, 

wrapped into firm tannins, with a bone-dry finish. 

Just fantastic to experience now, and it should easily develop 

over at least a decade. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $95 

96 

Duckhorn 2008 Patzimaro Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Huge, rich 

and flamboyant, this hasa sweetness at its core—like 

the essence of red and black currants, with an elaborate 

note of caramel imparted from smoky oak. Yet everything 

about it is utterly and properly dry. The vineyard is 

in St. Helena, not quite in the Spring Mountain appellation, 

yet showing the fruit concentration firm tannins 

of mountain-grown grapes. Just a stupendous wine; try 

after 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $95 

96 

Montagna 2009 La Presa One South Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Absolutely 

delicious and a joy to drink, this tastes like fine blackberry 

preserves spread onto buttered whole-wheat toast, 

sprinkled with cinnamon and black pepper. Despite the 

rich sweetness, the finish is bone dry. But the tannins 

are considerable, giving the mouthfeel a furry astringency. 

This elegant, pure, young Cabernet should begin 

to open in 10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $125 

96 

Piña 2009 Ames Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Oakville). For full review see page 3. 

Cellar Selection. 


96 

Von Strasser 2009 Agira Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). An 

awesome wine—this is so massively intense in blackberry, 

blueberry and cassis flavors, it’s hard to believe. 

From the first sip though the middle palate, it’s seemingly 

sweet with a fruity essence, but the finish is dry 

and firm. Drink now and for 8–10 years, at the very 

least. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $80 

95 

La Sirena 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). You will want to age this Cabernet—8 

or 10 years of development is the only way 

to allow the hard tannins to begin to melt away, allowing 

the fabulous core of blackberries, currants and dark 

chocolate to emerge. It’s hard to exaggerate the wine’s 

depth; it’s so elegantly pure, concentrated and focused. 

Don’t even think of popping the cork before 2018, and 

it could still be providing pleasure 20 years from now. 




95 

Von Strasser 2009 Sori Bricco Vineyard 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). 

This portion of the winery’s vineyard always 

yields Cabernets of enormous concentration with hard 

tannins. The 2009 is a classic, detonating in the mouth 

with laserlike blackberry and cassis flavors, to which 

new oak brings additional richness of smoky cedar. It’s 

really a beautiful wine, but very tannic, even by Von 

Strasser standards. Give it at least eight years, and it 

could be drinking well 20 years from now. Cellar Selection. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $80 

95 

Von Strasser 2009 Spaulding Vineyard 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). 

This has so much rich earth and minerality, it’s 

like a journey deep into a mine. It’s noted the vines 

were planted in 1970, and the wine does have that oldvine 

concentration of fruit in the form of massively intense 

blackberries. Then there’s the smoky new oak, 

which adds such a lusciously sweet jacket of buttered 

toast. Tannic and tight in the way of Diamond Mountain 

Cabernets, this should begin to come into its own after 

2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $80 

94 

Chappellet 2009 Pritchard Hill Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review 

see page 4. 

abv: 15.1% Price: $135 

94 

Duckhorn 2008 Rector Creek Vineyard 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). So 

rich and seemingly sweet in black currant, chocolate 

fudge and toasted oak flavors, you can hardly keep from 

drinking the whole bottle now. But that would be a mistake. 

You don’t want to age it so long that all the fruit 

drops out, but 8–10 years in the cellar should do just 

fine. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $95 

94 


(Howell Mountain). For full review see page 


abv: 14.5% Price: $75 

94 

Montagna 2009 Tre Vigneti Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This starts out 

closed and tight, shut down by tannins and immaturity, 

but plenty of swirling reveals elusive black-licorice and 

blackberry notes, accented by smoky oak. The tannins 

really kick in toward the middle, but hard as they are, 

they exhibit great breed. Despite its sweet core of fruit, 

this is nowhere close to being ready. Give it 10 years. 


abv: 14.7% Price: $50 

94 

Parallel 2009 Black Diamonds Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Very rich, ripe and 

dramatically textured, this has explosive flavors of blackberry, 

crème de cassis, dried herb and smoked meat 

flavors, enriched by smoky oak. It shows the tough, hard 

tannins you often find in low production mountain Cabernets. 

Made by the well-known consulting winemaker, 

Philippe Melka, it has the structure of a wine that needs 

age. Give it at least eight years, and it could be one that 

lasts decades. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $125 

94 

Piña 2009 Firehouse Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review see 

page 4. Cellar Selection. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $85 

94 

Piña 2009 Wolff Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Yountville). For full review see page 


abv: 15.2% Price: $85 

94 

Von Strasser 2009 Vineyard 2131 Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). Very 

pure in blackberries and black currants, this expresses 

the classic taste of Cabernet Sauvignon. New oak adds 

a lovely veneer of smoky, cedary cigar box. It’s beautiful 

to drink now for the soft, velvety texture and appealingly 

sweet complexity, but should age gradually for many 

years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $80 

93 

D.R. Stephens 2009 Moose Valley Vineyard 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). 

Flashy and delicious, this just blows your mind. It’s like 

the essence of the ripest, purest blackberries, with a 

note of crème de cassis and the sweet appeal of melted 

dark chocolate. It’s a soft wine, but grippy in tannins, 

which gives it good structure. Your best bet may be to 

drink it over the next six years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $135 

93 

Duckhorn 2008 The Discussion Estate 

Grown (Napa Valley). For full review see 


abv: 14.5% Price: $125 

93 

Korbin Kameron 2008 Cuvée Kristin Estate 

Blend Red Wine (Sonoma Valley). 


abv: 14.2% Price: $55 

93 

Melanson 2009 Matthew’s Block Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With its big, 

hard tannins, this is one for the cellar. There’s a certain 

austerity that suggests the rocky soils of this mountain 

vineyard. But the fruit, packed into a dense core, is ripe 

and suggestive of blackberry and cherries. The youthful 

brawniness softens after some time in the glass or 

decanter, but you’re best off aging it until 2019 or so. 


abv: 14.8% Price: $67 

93 

Topel 2007 Extended Elevage Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). There’s 

something about this wine that strongly suggests it will 

improve in the cellar after a good bit of aging. As it is, 

it’s dry, smooth, tannic and intense, with concentrated 

blackberry and black currant flavors, and a buttered 

toast note from aging in oak. It’s completely delicious, 

but if you can keep from popping the cork, it should reward 

after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $50 

93 

Villa del Lago 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). This starts out a bit coarse,

with strong tannins that have a rough-edged feeling. It’s 

very rich in blackberries and black currants, but showing 

more power than elegance. Time in the glass certainly 

opens it up, revealing a rich, heady cassis note. 

While the alcohol is high, it may easily develop bottle 

complexity over the next 10–15 years. —S.H. 

abv: 15.4% Price: $225 

93 

Von Strasser 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Diamond Mountain). An enormously appealing 

Cabernet, this is nearly as good as the magnificent 

but more expensive ’09 Estate, showing concentrated 

blackberry, blueberry, cassis and mineral flavors 

that are wrapped into firm Diamond Mountain tannins. 

Beautiful to drink now and over the next six years. Editors’ 


abv: 13.5% Price: $45 

93 

Von Strasser 2009 Post Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). Notable 

for its richness and structure, this offers the most 

delicious blackberry, cassis and toasted oak flavors. Firm 

minerality and intense tannins provide a solid foundation 

for all the richness. Drink now–2017. —S.H. 


93 

Wallis Family Estate 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Diamond Mountain). A great followup 

to the winery’s 2008, this continues a roll of classy 

Diamond Mountain-based Cabs from Wallis Family. It’s 

dry, softly tannic and likeable for its depth of blackberry, 

cherry, currant and cedar flavors. This straddles the line 

between immediate drinkability and ageability. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $65 

92 

Cobblestone 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Atlas Peak). Absolutely delicious, this floods 

the mouth with rich flavors of blackberry jam, crème de 

cassis, cocoa and smoky, buttery oak. It’s soft and gentle, 

so it may not be one for the cellar, but it sure is great to 

drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $44 

92 

D.R. Stephens 2009 Walther River Block 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is 

very rich, with flavors of melted milk chocolate, black 

cherry pie, black currant, toasted almond, brown butter 

and smoky oak. Tastes like a granola candy bar, but 

a very expensive one, with gorgeous tannins and a long, 

sweet, mind-blowing finish. It’s hard to imagine aging 

anything this soft and delicious—drink soon. —S.H. 

abv: 15.3% Price: $125 

92 

Korbin Kameron 2007 Estate Grown Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). For full 

review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $40 

92 

La Sirena 2009 Pirate TreasuRed (Napa 

Valley). Whatever the blend is on this red 

wine, and winemaker Heidi Barrett isn’t saying, it’s really 

interesting. The bottle is old-fashioned and stubby, 

like something from the 1700s. The wine itself is immediately 

likeable for its spicy array of spices and berries. 

Despite its upfront appeal, there’s a complexity that elevates 

it. —S.H. 


92 

Super Sonoman 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Knights Valley). Flashy and delicious, 

this could even grow in the bottle with a few years of 

aging, becoming earthier and drier in fruit. Otherwise, 

it’s perfectly fine now—a soft, complex wine, with brisk 

acidity and flavors of blackberry, black currant and 

mocha. —S.H. 

abv: 15.2% Price: $85 

92 

Super Sonoman 2007 Meritage (Sonoma 

County). Dry, rich and intricate, this is clearly 

capable of aging. The tannins are still pretty fierce, and 

buried under them is a dense core of blackberry and 

currant fruit—a testament to the near-perfect vintage 

conditions. The Bordeaux-style blend is mainly based 

on Cabernet Sauvignon. Give it until 2016. Cellar Selection. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $75 

91 

Kendall-Jackson 2008 Grand Reserve 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). 

Close in quality to Cabernets costing far more, this has 

elaborate blackberry, cherry and currant flavors. The 

all-important mouthfeel is dry and crisp, with fine tannins. 

It’s not an ager, but shows plenty of class. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $28 

91 

Markham 2008 The Philanthropist Yountville 

Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). This is bone dry, with plenty of 

acidity and tough tannins. It’s not offering much relief, 

despite an evident core of blackberries, currants and 

cherries. Those tannins really lock the palate down, like 

a sandpaper straitjacket on the tongue. But you have to 

consider its origin in Yountville, a cool area noted for 

ageable wines. It hould begin to resolve its difficulties 

by 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $50 

91 

Meyer Family 2009 Fluffy Billows Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Oakville). If the name 

of this wine suggests that it’s comforting to drink now, 

it’s perfectly apt. Although it hails from Oakville, whose 

Cabernets are among the most ageable in Napa Valley, 

this shows an accessibility that makes the black currant 

and cedar flavors immediately appealing. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $45 

91 

Wallis Family Estate 2009 Little Sister 

Red Wine (Diamond Mountain). Delicious 

now, this has waves of blackberries, cherries, currants, 

dark chocolate, spices and oak. It seems almost sweet, 

but the finish is a swirl of dry tannins. Might develop 

over the long haul, and will it certainly last to 2015. Give 

it a few hours in the decanter. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $45 

91 

Wattle Creek 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Alexander Valley). This is classic Alexander 

Valley Cabernet Sauvignon—in an old-fashioned way. 

That’s not a back-handed compliment, it’s a testimony 

to the wine’s dryness and herbaceousness, and the soft 

quality of its tannins. The blackberry, olive and cedar 

flavors are delicious, and the wine will develop bottle 

complexity over the next 10 years or so. —S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $42 

91 

Y Rousseau 2009 Le Roi Soleil Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Here’s a Cabernet 

to lay down in the cellar for 6–8 years—or even 

longer. Two things mark it: the extremely ripe, concentrated 

blackberry and black currant fruit, and the hefty 

tannins. Most people will probably open it too soon and 

miss out on what it could be, when the tannins drop 

out to reveal its sweet fruity essence. Cellar Selection. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $65 

90 

Dominus 2009 Estate Bottled Red Wine 

(Napa Valley). While this is not the best 

Dominus vintage, it does show elegantly smooth tannins, 

dryness and earthiness that accompanies the 

black berry and cassis fruit. It’s curiously soft, which 

might limit its ageability. Shows an uncanny similarity 

to the 2000. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $179 

90 

Forefathers 2008 Lone Tree Vineyard 


For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $50 

90 

Jason-Stephens 2006 Monte Bello Road 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). 

A six-year-old Cabernet that’s heady with savory 

herbal tones, it has a finely tuned structure that needs 

time to open and could be cellared even more. This is a 

beautiful wine with ripe flavors of black cherry and pepper, 

and plenty of complexity to keep it interesting over 

a meal. Cellar Selection. —V.B. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $70 

90 

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2009 Artemis 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This 

has lots of ripe, plush blackberry, olive and dark chocolate 

flavors. It packs a punch that lasts into a long, spicy 

finish. Delicious, classy, and lovely to drink now, although 

it will evolve through at least 2018. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $55 

90 

Topel 2007 Battuello Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (St. Helena). Dry and smoothly 

tannic, this will have wide appeal, both to novices and 

even experts who will appreciate its complexity. With 

black cherry and cola flavors, it has a nice jacket of oak 

that brings a smoky richness to the fruit. Drink now– 

2013. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $40 

90 




abv: 14.5% Price: $22 

90 

Varozza 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. 

Helena). This 100% Cabernet has a good 

structure and plenty of ripe, flashy blackberry and blueberry 

jam and cassis flavors. It’s a bit coarse now in tannins, 

which undoubtedly is a function of youth. Give it 

another five years, by which time it should be throwing 

lots of tannins, so be prepared to decant it carefully. 


abv: 14.7% Price: $75 


89 

Boyanci 2009 InSpire Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). Rich and crowd pleasing, 

this has flashy blackberry, black currant and spice 

flavors. It’s textbook Napa Cabernet, if a little upfront 

in its appeal. —S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $60 

88 

Chalk Hill 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère 

(Chalk Hill). This unusual blend is 

robust and sweet in blackberries, dark chocolate and 

plums, with lots of toasty, caramelized oak. It’s forward, 

soft and delicious, but could be more nuanced. —S.H. 

abv: 15.5% Price: $85 

88 


(Napa Valley). Ripe to the point of overripe, 

with a sweet raisin edge to the blackberry flavor. Still, 

the structure is elegant, showing fine tannins and good 

balance. Probably best over the next 1–3 years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $68 

88 

Hestan 2007 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Ripe and forward, 

this has lots of jammy blackberry and cherry fruit flavors, 

all coated with sweet, smoky oak. It’s a bit overripe, 

with a note of plumped raisin, so drink up. —S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $45 

88 

Owl Ridge 2007 T.R. Passalacqua Vineyard 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek 

Valley). This Cabernet has a wonderfully smooth texture. 

It’s tasty and rich in blackberry fruit, with a touch 

of sweet, savory raisin and lots of exotic spice. Easy to 

drink this dry wine over the next few years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $35 

87 

Black Ridge 2008 San Andreas Red Wine 

(Santa Cruz Mountains). This is a bit rustic, 

with superripe blackberry flavors that veer into raisins. 

As a consequence, there’s a fruity sweetness at its core. 

It’s also extremely tannic. While it’s flashy and impressive, 

it won’t benefit from age due to its inherent instabilities. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $49 

87 

Buehler 2009 Papa’s Knoll Estate Bottled 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This 

is warm in alcohol, which lends a slight burn, but the 

blackberry fruit is pure and savory. It’s dry, with good 

supporting acidity and rich tannins, but the alcohol 

might limit its ageability, so drink soon. —S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $45 

87 

Chalk Hill 2009 Merlot-Malbec (Chalk 

Hill). Tasting sweet and hot, this sure is ripe. 

It has extracted flavors of jammy blackberry, cherry and 

cola. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 15.4% Price: $85 

87 

Earthquake 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Lodi). Earthquake wines often hit you quite 

deliberately over the head with oak and tannin, but this 

is nicely done. It’s big and very fruity, with cranberry 

and cassis notes intermingled with a blackberry flavor. 

Smooth throughout, the wine finishes with a delicious 

hit of toffee and vanilla. —V.B. 



87 

Farrier 2009 Presshouse Red (Alexander 

Valley). Rich and tasty, this is a big wine that’s 

ripe in blackberries, black currants and mocha, yet balanced 

with rich tannins and fine acidity. The blend is 

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Carmenere. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $24 

87 

Freakshow 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Lodi). For full review see page 10. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $18 

87 

Herzog 2009 Single Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Very soft, this 

has a melted quality to the blackberry, cherry liqueur 

and cedar flavors. Everything about it is so fine, though 

it could have a firmer structure. Still, it’s an elaborate 

wine that will pair well with beef or lamb. Drink now. 

—S.H. 


87 

Houdini 2008 Glendale Ranch Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Still dry and tannic, 

this has a hard, brittle mouthfeel and lots of tart 

acidity. It has a gigantic core of blackberry fruit. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

87 

Icaria 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander 

Valley). Dry, tannic and tartly acidic, this 

has the herbaceous earthiness often found in Alexander 

Valley Cabernets, but it’s rich enough in cherries and 

sweet oak to satisfy. It doesn’t seem like an ager, but it’s 

an elegantly smooth wine to drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $30 

87 

Jason-Stephens 2007 Estate Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Santa Clara Valley). This is an 

appealing Cabernet with spicy cola and plum notes and 

a consistent flavor through the midpalate. It finishes 

with a hint of toasty oak. —V.B. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $28 

87 

Kunde 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Sonoma Valley). Tasty and easy to 

drink, this has blackberry, black currant and cola flavors 

that finish seemingly sweet and oaky. It’s an intense 

wine that doesn’t seem likely to make gains with age, so 

drink up after an hour or two in the decanter. —S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $45 

87 

Markham 2008 The Altruist Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This wine remains 

astringent in tannins, with a lockded-down 

mouthfeel that’s hard to get past. But it’s very rich in 

blackberry and cherry fruit. Is it worth aging? It’s hard 

to tell if 10 years will be of benefit, but the tannins seem 

likely to outlast the fruit. Drink up over the next 5–6 


abv: 14.5% Price: $50 

87 

Owl Ridge 2007 Brigden Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Sonoma County). A little 

on the slender side, but this is respectable for its dry, 

balanced texture and pleasant blackberry and black currant 

flavors. It shows real elegance, too, although it’s not 

one for the cellar, so drink up. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $35 

87 

Paraduxx 2009 C Blend Red Wine (Napa 

Valley). The C Blend is Cabernet Sauvignon 

blended with Zinfandel. It’s fine, dry and robust, bearing 

rich blackberry and plum sauce flavors, with some 

authentic Napa elegance. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $48 

87 

Paraduxx 2009 Z Blend Red Wine (Napa 

Valley). Zinfandel has been blended in with 

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to create this blend. 

The Zinfandel makes the wine briary and spicy, taking 

away from Cabernet’s elegance. Still, it’s a very good 

wine—robust, fruity and dry. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $48 

87 

Pine Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Oakville). This shows good blackberry and 

black currant flavors, with the smooth, rich tannins for 

which Oakville is noted. But there’s no particular intensity 

or ageworthiness. Drink up. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $75 

87 


(Rutherford). Good and classy, if somewhat 

ordinary for Rutherford. It shows delicious black-cherry 

candy and mocha flavors, with smooth, refined tannins, 

but lacks the structure and concentration needed for aging, 

especially at this price. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $80 

87 


(Stags Leap District). Tastes like sweet, 

spicy blackberry jam, with an overripe note of prune 

lurking in the background, which will limit the wine’s 

ageworthiness. It’s fine in tannins and acids, with plenty 

of elegance, but it seems too sweet for true classic Stags 

Leap character. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $85 

87 

Pine Ridge 2009 Fortis Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). This is a blend of the 

winery’s vineyard sources in Rutherford and Stags Leap. 

It’s very delicious and complex in blackberry and blueberry 

jam, cola, mocha and smoky oak flavors, but is surprisingly 

soft. It’s almost as if the tannins and acids were 

taken out. Drink up. —S.H. 


87 

Sean Minor 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). A nice Cabernet for drinking 

now, this is basically dry, but has so much ripe blackberry 

and cherry fruit that there’s an impression of 

sweetness. With soft tannins and an edge of toasty oak, 

it shows plenty of Napa class. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $22 

87 

Shannon Ridge 2009 Ranch Collection 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). A delightfully 

fresh, fruity Cabernet with notes of cassis and 

cranberry, this is on the red fruit side of the Cabernet 

aroma and flavor spectrum. The wine’s clutch of tannins 

are balanced out on the vanilla-flavored finish, and the 

wine’s small amounts of Syrah, Petite Sirah and Malbec 

add layers of vibrancy. —V.B. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $19 

87 

William Hill Estate 2008 Estate Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Give this wine

credit for richness. It’s tremendous in blackberry, blueberry, 

plum and mocha flavors, with a nice earthiness. 

It’s ready to drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $35 

86 

Bacio Divino 2009 Reserve Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This soft, gentle 

Cabernet doesn’t have much structure, but it’s rich 

in blackberry, currant and dark chocolate flavors, and 

thoroughly dry. The finish is hot like a jalapeño pepper. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $80 

86 

Boyanci 2009 Red Wine (Napa Valley). A 

blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with some other 

classic Bordeaux varieties and a splash of Syrah, this is 

a sweet, chocolaty wine, with a blackberry note and a 

crème de cassis headiness. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $110 

86 

Chalk Hill 2009 Clara’s Vineyard Red 

Wine (Chalk Hill). This shows opulent blackberry 

and chocolate flavors that are delicious and heady. 

But it’s very high in alcohol, which gives it a burn and a 

glycerine-like sweetness. It’s a Bordeaux blend, with the 

addition of Syrah. —S.H. 

abv: 15.6% Price: $85 

86 

Chime 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma 

County). Exceptionally ripe and juicy, 

with briary wild-blackberry and cherry flavors. It’s a 

good wine, a little coarse, but nicely dry and spicy. A 

brief decant will help soften the tannins. —S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $19 

86 

Crooked Path 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Paso Robles). Plenty of rich, hearty blackberry, 

cherry, currant and spice flavors are found in this 

soft wine. A little on the sweet side, it’s throwing some 

sediment, so decant it before service. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

86 

Hawk Watch Winery 2008 Signature 

Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (South 

Coast). There’s no denying the showy, ripe fruit that 

emanates from the bottle—a mix of herbal cranberry 

and caramel. It’s soft and round, and if you’re interested 

in how Cabernet from the South Coast can taste, this 

one’s worth a try. —V.B. 

abv: 15.8% Price: $42 

86 

Hess 2009 Allomi Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). Properly varietal, dry and 

smoothly tannic, this has a ripe, rich blackberry-jam 

flavor, with a healthy overlay of sweet, smoky oak. It’s a 

fine wine for drinking now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $28 

86 

Hess Collection 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Mount Veeder). Small amounts of 

Malbec and Merlot bring some additional complexity to 

this Cabernet, but it’s still a pretty straightforward wine. 

Soft and dry, it has generous flavors of blackberry and 

new oak. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $48 

86 

Houdini 2008 Palisades Ranch Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Tough in the 

mouth, and chewy, like a gristly piece of steak you can’t 

quite break down. It’s certainly rich in blackberry, black 

currant and smoky oak flavors, and is properly dry and 

brisk in acidity. But you have to wonder if that toughness 

will ever age out. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $40 

86 

Minassian-Young 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Paso Robles). Soft, sweet, gentle and 

Porty, this has dark chocolate, blackberry and buttered 

rum flavors. It’s quite generous and delicious in the Paso 

hot-climate way. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $24 

86 

Noble Vines 2009 337 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Lodi). This is a fleshy, fairly priced Cabernet 

from the 337 clone (hence the name), that has 

notes of dark cherry fruit and baking spice throughout, 

with just a trace of coconut on the finish. —V.B. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $15 

86 

Peters Family 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Sonoma Mountain). This is tartly sweet and 

jammy, like a cherry and roasted almond candy bar with 

a chocolate coating. Tasty, but a little one dimensional. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $55 

86 

Shannon Ridge 2010 High Elevation Collection 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). 

Made from grapes grown at a high elevation, this 

Cabernet tastes of oaky plum and has a slight layer of 

sage in the background that rounds out the wine. Aged 

in French and American oak, it’s ready to drink now, 

as its cherry and raspberry flavors are currently shining. 

—V.B. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $23 

86 

Topel 2008 Battuello Vineyard Cabernet 

Sauvignon (St. Helena). Soft, dry and flashy, 

this has pie-filling flavors of blackberries and cherries, 

with some heat from the alcohol. The smoky spiciness 

and firm tannins suggest pairing it with steak. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $40 

86 

White Oak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). Despite some rich blackberry 

and currant flavors, a rich overlay of oak and smooth 

tannins, this Cabernet is a little off in texture. It’s gritty 

in the mouth, but it is nicely dry, and has a certain complexity. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $30 

85 

Benziger 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma 

County). This is a solid, everyday Cabernet 

for drinking with simple fare. It’s soft and simple 

in structure, but the blackberry and mocha flavors are 

tasty. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

85 

Calistoga Cellars 2010 Triumph Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made in a popular 

style, this is a soft, slightly sweet and very fruity Cabernet. 

It has candied cherry, roasted almond, honey and 

spice flavors, wrapped in a smoothly tannic framework. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $25 

85 

Daglia Canyon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). This shows a certain richness, 

with black currant, cola and cedar flavors. It’s easy to 

drink with just about anything that calls for a dry, fullbodied 

red. —S.H. 


85 

Decoy 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 

County). An easy Cabernet, delivering plenty 

of ripe, juicy blackberry jam and dark chocolate flavors. 

It finishes a little on the sweet side. —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $25 

85 

Decoy 2010 Red Wine (Napa Valley). This 

blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit 

Verdot has some oak flavors on top of the jammy blackberries 

and cherries. It’s simple and direct; ideal for 

drinking now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

85 

F.J. Serra 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). 

Jangly in the mouth, with an uneven 

tannin structure that makes it a bit rough. But there’s 

plenty of jammy cherry and berry fruit. Drink now with 

a hearty beef stew. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

85 

Miro 2009 Silverwood Vineyard Mountain 

Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander 

Valley). Toasty, caramelized oak and sweet heat 

from high alcohol dominate this wine. The blackberry 

and cherry fruit flavors are very ripe. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 15.1% Price: $28 

85 

Muscardini 2009 Madrone Ridge Vineyard 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). 

This very dry Cabernet feels rugged and gritty in 

the mouth, with too much acidity that lends bite. The 

austerity is relieved by black cherry and sweet tobacco 

flavors. Drink up. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $39 

85 

Muscardini 2010 Rancho Salina Cabernet 

Sauvignon-Merlot (Sonoma Valley). 

Overripe, juicy and soft, this has baked fruit flavors, 

like blackberries and cherries in a pie. Oak adds to the 

sweetness with sugary caramel. It’s rich, but it lacks 

complexity and ageworthiness. —S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $49 

85 

Napa Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Napa Valley). Seemingly sweet cherry, mocha 

and oak flavors mark this ripe Cabernet. It offers 

plenty of fruity pleasure. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $22 

85 


(Howell Mountain). Ripe to the point of being 

overripe, this has a sweet raisin and prune note to 

the blackberry flavor. It’s clear that the winemaker was 

trying to make a flashy, opulent Cab, but this one carries 

it over the top. Not likely to benefit from age, so drink 

up. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $90 

85 

Riboli 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). 

This is sharper and more rustic than 

most other expensive Rutherford Cabernets, with a cut 


of citrusy acidity that dominates the cherry and herb flavors. 

While it’s tough and hard to appreciate now, you 

never know if these aggressive young wines will develop 

with time. This one doesn’t seem like it will benefit, so 

drink up. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $65 

85 

Rigg Estate Vineyards 2006 Reserve 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). 

Very dark in color, this jumps out at first because it’s 

showy and high in alcohol, with seemingly sweet overtones 

that might appeal to lovers of brawny red wine. 

The oak, green pepper and olive undertones take over 

on the finish. —V.B. 

abv: 15.5% Price: $85 

85 

Tangley Oaks 2007 Lot #10 Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There are good 

blackberry and black currant flavors in this dry Cabernet, 

with an elegant coating of smoky oak, but it lacks 

some concentration. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $23 

85 

Vigilance 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red 

Hills Lake County). This is a slightly herbal, 

well-structured Cabernet with upfront tannins and flavors 

of ripe cherry and vanilla. It finishes with a taste of 

marshmallow. —V.B. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

84 

Calistoga Cellars 2010 Triumph Reserve 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made 

in a popular style, but this is seems sweet, like a Starbucks 

blackberry and mocha drink. It’s overripe, with a 

raisiny finish and some heat. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $45 

84 

Greystone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(California). Not bad for the price, if you’re 

just looking for something dry, full bodied and fruity. A 

lot of people are, which makes this a pretty good bargain. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $11 

84 

Lost Angel 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(California). This has ripe blackberry and oak 

flavors. It’s dry, full bodied and tannic enough to cut 

through a rich, ketchup-strewn cheeseburger. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

84 

RouteStock Cellars 2009 Route 29 Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Although 

this Cabernet bears a Napa Valley designation, it could 

be from anywhere. It’s rich in tannins and has good 

blackberry and herb flavors that finish a little pruny. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $22 

84 

Sean Minor 2010 Four Bears Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This is a simple, 

soft, easy to drink Cabernet, with candied berry and 

spice flavors. The easiness suggests backyard barbecue, 

with sweetly grilled ribs and burgers on a summer evening. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $16 

84 

Twisted Sisters 2009 Matriarch Red Wine 

(Paso Robles). Made in an old-fashioned 


Paso Robles style, this is pretty sweet, soft and simple. 

There’s not much complexity, but it has plenty of ripe 

blackberry, cherry and spice flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $20 

84 

Weinstock Cellars 2009 Cellar Select 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa County). This 

is nicely dry and rich in fine tannins, with classic Cabernet 

blackberry, black currant, cola and cedar flavors. But 

the wine is so soft, it lacks structural integrity. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

83 

Lockwood 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Monterey County). Drink this Cabernet 

with burgers. It’s dry, robust and fruity, with a strong cut 

of acidity. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

83 

Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 

(California). This is dry, with scouring 

tannins and some twiggy, stalky bitterness. It has just 

enough blackberry flavor to get by. For the price, it’s 

fine for big parties. —S.H. 


83 

Small Wonders 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Central Coast). Simple and sharp, this 

tastes like a chocolate-covered cherry candy, though it 

finishes dry. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $14 

82 

Lloyd of Calcareous 2008 Velvet Knees 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This 

is way too soft and unstructured, especially at this price. 

It’s a sweet, syrupy wine, with blackberry jam and cocoa 

flavors, and it’s also high in alcohol. —S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $56 

82 

Parducci 2009 Small Lot Blend Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Mendocino County). This runof-the-mill 

wine lacks much in the way of varietal character, 

and has an overbearing taste of alcohol. —V.B. 


82 

Pennywise 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(California). Offering dry, sharp flavors of berries, 

mint and tobacco, it gets the job done. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $12 

82 

Shale Canyon 2009 Pedregal Vineyard 

Cabernet Sauvignon (Paicines). A hard 

Cabernet to like, with a rough texture and sweet-andsour 

cherry flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $20 

82 

Snapping Turtle 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(California). Simple and soft, this has 

flavors of sweet, candied fruit and buttered toast. —S.H. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $11 

81 

Wayne Gretzky Estates 2008 Cabernet 

Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This is overripe 

in raisin and prune flavors, which gives it a disagreeable 

bitterness and sweetness. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

80 

Arrow Creek 2011 Coastal Series Cabernet 

Sauvignon (California). Harsh, sweet 

and sour, this has a gluey texture that frames the cherry 

cough-medicine flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $18 

OTHER RED BLENDS 

92 

La Sirena 2008 Art Bus Red (Calistoga). 

A new wine from superstar winemaker Heidi 

Barrett, and the label is one of the coolest ever. It’s extraordinarily 

rich and opulent, with a tapestry-like silky 

complexity. The blackberry, cherry and olive flavors are 

very ripe, yet it finishes wonderfully dry. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $115 

90 

Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend 

Red Blend (Napa County-Sonoma County-San 

Joaquin County). For full review see page 8. 

Editors’ Choice. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

86 

Cosa Obra 2009 Proprietor’s Blend Red 

(Sonoma County). Made from Syrah and Grenache, 

this blend shows the strengths and weaknesses 

of its style. While it’s forwardly delicious and complex in 

cherry, licorice, bacon, black pepper, mocha and sandalwood 

flavors, it’s rather soft. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $40 

86 

Sean Minor 2009 Red Wine (Napa Valley). 

There’s something distinguished about 

this blend of several varieties, but also something 

one-dimensional. It’s pretty good for the price—dry, 

smoothly tannic and proper in blackberry, dark chocolate 

and cassis flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $22 

85 

Eleanor 2009 Red Wine (California). This 

expensive wine is softly tannic, earthy and fruity, 

with dried herb and raspberry tea flavors. From Francis 

Ford Coppola. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $48 

85 

Lost Angel 2008 Mischief (California). 

This is a pretty nice wine for drinking with 

every day fare, and at this price, it’s a real value. It packs 

a punch, with solid blackberry and licorice flavors that 

finish dry and spicy. Best Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

84 

Bridlewood 2010 Blend 175 (Central 

Coast). Made from Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon 

and Zinfandel, this is a simple wine. It has cherry 

and spice flavors, with a cut of acidity. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

84 

Minassian-Young 2010 Field Blend (Paso 

Robles). This blend of Mourvèdre and Counoise 

is soft and sweet. It tastes like the wine version 

of a milk-chocolate candy bar, infused with blackberry 

essence and alcohol. —S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $25 

84 

Pazzo 2009 Red (Napa Valley). From Bacio 

Divino, this Sangiovese-based blend is curiously 

soft. While it has forward cherry, cocoa and spice

flavors, it simply lacks structural integrity.The alcohol is 

evident on the warm, dry finish. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $32 

84 

Rare NV 4 Grape Blend (California). 

Here’s a good, robust red wine. It’s made in a 

country-style, with tobacco, cherry and spice flavors 

and a jagged mouthfeel. Drink it with tacos and burgers. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

83 

Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Mountain 

Cuvée (Sonoma County). This is way too 

soft for comfort, with soft tannins and slight acidity that 

leave the fruit and alcohol to star. —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $24 

83 

LoveThisLife 2009 Red (California). With 

cherry, mocha and spice flavors, this is a good 

wine for drinking with a great cheeseburger. The price 

is fair for the quality. It’s a blend of Petite Sirah and 

Syrah. —S.H. 


82 

Cline 2011 Cashmere (California). This 

blend seems to be trying to ride the current 

craze for sweet red wines. It’s simple and thin, with 

sharp acidity. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $16 

81 

Minassian-Young 2009 Junipero (Paso 

Robles). Marred by a vegetal taste, this has 

hot, thin cherry and oak flavors. The blend is Mourvèdre, 

Zinfandel and Grenache. —S.H. 

abv: 15.1% Price: $24 

81 

Plush 2010 Smooth Red (California). As 

its name states quite clearly, this is a plush, lush, 

smooth red wine. It’s sweet and jammy like a shot of 

Jell-O. —V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $8 

80 

Peirano 2009 The Other Red (Lodi). This 

blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot 

and 10% Syrah was too sweet for this taster. It’s full 

of huge ripe fruit and a lingering aroma of burnt toast. 

—V.B. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $12 

MERLOT 

95 

Duckhorn 2009 Three Palms Vineyard 

Merlot (Napa Valley). For full review see 


abv: 14.5% Price: $85 

91 

Duckhorn 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). For 


abv: 14.5% Price: $52 

91 

Korbin Kameron 2008 Estate Grown Merlot 

(Sonoma Valley). For full review see page 8. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $35 

90 

Kendall-Jackson 2008 Grand Reserve 

Merlot (Sonoma County). This is a lovely, 

fully resolved Merlot. It shows a classy elegance that be- 

lies the price. Fully drinkable now, it’s softly tannic and 

rich in cherry, red currant, licorice and mocha flavors 

that finish dry and spicy. Production was 9,904 cases. 

Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $26 

90 

Kimmel 2009 Merlot (Mendocino County). 

Powerfully lush and concentrated, this 

has a heady layering of spice and tannins that coat the 

back palate. With a big, fruity mouthfeel, this is ready 

for braised meats or herbed roast chicken with garlic 

smashed potatoes. —V.B. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $38 

90 


Merlot (Alexander Valley). For full review 

see page 9. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $18 

87 

Chelsea Goldschmidt 2010 Merlot (Dry 

Creek Valley). Here’s a soft, juicy Merlot. It’s 

loaded with cherry, mocha and smoky flavors, wrapped 

into smooth tannins. It finishes dry and spicy. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $17 

86 

Concannon 2009 Conservancy Merlot 

(Livermore Valley). This has flavors of dark 

cherry and mint that hover above its herbal tendencies. 

It resolves nicely on the finish, with flavors of juicy plum 

and black tea. —V.B. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $15 

86 

Mad Housewife 2009 Merlot (California). 

This is a Merlot with dark plum flavors, integrated 

tannins and good structure. Juicy fruit and an appropriate 

level of herbaceousness in the background. Best 

Buy. —V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

86 

Newton 2008 Unfiltered Merlot (Napa 

Valley). Slender and dry, this has modest cherry, 

herb and cedar flavors. It’s elegant enough, with a 

supple mouthfeel, but there’s not a whole lot of richness. 

This is not for aging. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $60 

86 

Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Merlot (California). 



86 

Tangley Oaks 2009 Lot #10 Merlot (Napa 

Valley). Rich and appealing, this feels classy, 

with smooth tannins framing cherry and licorice flavors. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $15 

85 

Black Box 2010 Merlot (California). Once 

again Black Box has come out with a fine, easydrinking 

Merlot that many folks will like. It’s forward in 

sour cherry, herb and cedar flavors, wrapped into a dry, 

silky texture. At the equivalent of $6.25 for a regular 

750-ml bottle, it’s a bargain. Best Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L 

85 

Decoy 2010 Merlot (Sonoma County). 

Sweet and direct, this has blackberry, cherry 

jam, mocha and spicy sandalwood flavors. There’s plenty 

of charm, but not much complexity. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

85 

Houdini 2008 Merlot (Oakville). Fruity and 

simple, this Merlot tastes like the wine equivalent 

of a candied dessert pastry. It may not be technically 

sweet, but it’s so extracted in raspberries, cherries 

and caramelized oak that it seems sweet. —S.H. 

abv: 15.1% Price: $30 

85 

Lost Angel 2009 Merlot (California). Get 

a case of this and make it your house wine for 

easy drinking. It’s dry and spicy, and has enough cherry, 

berry and cola flavors to satisfy your tastebuds. Best 

Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

85 

Parducci 2009 Small Lot Blend Merlot 

(Mendocino County). This Merlot has good 

plum and cherry flavors up front and is straightforward 

enough to pair with just about any food, but the finish 

falls a bit flat. —V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $11 

84 

Benziger 2008 Merlot (Sonoma County). 

A soft, simple wine, this has flavors of cherry 

candy, spice and oak. It’s getting a little tired, so drink 

up now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $19 

84 

Geyser Peak 2008 Merlot (Alexander Valley). 

This is soft and simple, with mild cherry, 

spice and cedar flavors. It’s not very rich, but it’s nice 

and dry. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

84 

Lockwood 2010 Merlot (Monterey County). 

There’s lots of cutting acidity in this dry 

Merlot. It has pleasant cherry-pie flavors, but the tartness 

really needs rich meats and cheeses to soften it. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $15 

83 

Greystone 2010 Merlot (California). Drink 

this easy Merlot at parties with burgers and pizzas. 

It’s soft and dryish, with a candied cherry flavor. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $11 

82 

Cable Car 2009 Merlot (Lodi). This is an 

herbal Merlot that tastes of toasty oak and finishes 

slightly sweet. —V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

82 

Lange Twins 2008 Reserve Merlot 

(Clarksburg). This Merlot is muted aromatically. 

On the palate it’s gigantic in tannins—big and bold 

for sure. —V.B. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $30 

82 

Maddalena 2007 Merlot (Paso Robles). 

Still rather harsh, this is a rustic wine with cherry, 

cola and prune flavors. It’s not for aging. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $17 

81 

House Band NV Merlot (California). Sold 

in individual 375-ml pouches or 4-packs. The 


Merlot is overripe and Porty, with a sweet prune flavor. 

—S.H. 

abv: NA Price: $5/375 ml 

PETIT VERDOT 

91 

Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Petit Verdot 

(St. Helena). For full review see page 7. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $38 

88 

Fenestra 2008 Ghielmetti Vineyard Petit 

Verdot (Livermore Valley). This wine opens 

with spicy cinnamon and clove aromas before diving 

into soft, dark fruit, mellowed tannins and oak. It’s 

brooding and zippy at the same time, and on the balanced 

finish, it’s all mocha. —V.B. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $33 

87 

Yorkville Cellars 2009 Randle Hill Vineyard 

Petit Verdot (Yorkville Highlands). A 

Cabernet Sauvignon-like version of Petit Verdot, this 

has tame tannins and is all around soft and mellow, with 

straightforward berry and cedar notes. It would make a 

fine food wine. —V.B. 


PINOT NOIR 

95 

Furthermore 2009 Gap’s Crown Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Showing lovely 

silkiness, dryness and transparency, this is a Pinot to 

drink now or age for a while. The flavors are rich but 

elusive, suggesting wild summer raspberries, cola, pine 

needles and sautéed mushrooms splashed with balsamic, 

with the sweet smokiness of oak barrel aging. It’s delicate 

and powerful, but only 47 cases were produced. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $50 

95 

Marimar Estate 2008 Cristina Don Miguel 


For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $49 

95 

Sanford 2009 La Riconada Pinot Noir 

(Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a grace and purity 

to this Pinot Noir that make it particularly recommendable. 

It’s so light and silky, it just glides like a butterfly 

across the palate. But it’s extraordinarily rich in wild 

raspberry and cherry fruit, and the white pepper and 

baking spices make it savory. Delicious now, but it 

should prosper over the next eight years, at least. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $60 

95 

Walt 2010 The Corners Pinot Noir (Anderson 

Valley). For full review see page 4. 

abv: 15.1% Price: $60 

94 

Davis Family 2009 Horshehoe Bend 


The winery’s ’08 bottling of this Pinot was very 

good, but this is considerably better. It’s rich in red cherries 

and ripe persimmons, with complex notes of grilled 

beef, cola and sautéed wild mushrooms, and has a long, 


spicy finish. A joy to drink now, and it will develop bottle 

nuances over the next six years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $45 

94 

Sanford 2010 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a 

fancy restaurant-style Pinot Noir. That means it’s dry, 

silky and rich, and has that elusive, undefinable quality 

of elegance that can accompany the finest Pinotfriendly 

foods, such as steak, lamb, grilled tuna or a wild 

mushroom risotto. It’s tantalizingly crisp, with complex 

cherry, cola and spice flavors. Drink now and through 

2016. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $60 

94 

Sobriquet Winery 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa 

Maria Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’ 

Choice. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $38 

93 

a-non-ah-mus 2009 Babcock Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). How this wine 

manages to be both sweet and bone dry at the same 

time is a mystery. It’s simply luscious, brimming with 

deliriously rich flavors of raspberry cream, cherry 

vanilla, gingerbread cookie and buttered cinnamon 

toast. It’s the Chardonnay version of Pinot Noir, creamy 

and honeyed. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $44 

93 

Davis Family 2009 Starr Ridge Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). With 

waves of raspberry, cherry, honeyed cream, cinnamon 

and caramelized oak flavors, this defines the word delicious. 

The richness is balanced by crisp acidity and delicate 

tannins. Just superb to drink now; try pairing it with 

lamb that’s been salted and peppered, seasoned with a 

hint of rosemary. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $45 

93 

Drew 2010 Fog-Eater Pinot Noir (Anderson 

Valley). Dry and racy, with an affinity for 

a wide variety of foods. Made from two vineyards in this 

cool-climate appellation, it shows subtle earth, mushroom 

and eucalyptus notes that deepen the wild raspberry 

and cherry fruit. With brisk acidity and a flourish 

of tannins, it’s a fine wine to drink now and over the next 

six years. —S.H. 

abv: 13.6% Price: $42 

93 

Drew 2010 Morning Dew Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Anderson Valley). Another great Anderson 

Valley Pinot from Drew, made using fruit from 

a vineyard in Philo—the “deep end” or coolest section 

of the valley. While you won’t find obnoxious acidity 

despite the officially high reading, the wine does have 

cool-climate notes of mushrooms, pine needles and 

cola, in addition to classic fruit flavors of raspberries and 

cherries. It’s very fine, dry and complex; enjoy now or 

cellar for 6–8 years. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $48 

93 

Furthermore 2009 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A fine 

evocation of this esteemed vineyard, this shows the typical 

power and extracted fruit in the form of pure raspberry 

and cherry essence. It’s all packed into a firm tex- 

ture of acids, tannins and stony minerality. Upscale and 

elegant, it’s fine now, and should develop bottle complexities 

over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $50 

93 

TR Elliott 2009 Queste Pinot Noir (Russian 

River Valley). This is so seductive in rich, 

polished raspberry and cherry flavors, you can hardly 

keep from drinking it now. But the acid and tannin balance 

on this Pinot Noir is just about perfect, giving it the 

potential for at least six years in a good cellar. There’s an 

earthy, mushroomy complexity that could make it really 

interesting down the road. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $44 

93 

Walt 2010 La Brisa Pinot Noir (Sonoma 

County). For full review see page 6. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

92 

Amos Cellars 2010 Shepherd Anderson 

Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). 

Proprietor Jon McDaniel, a sommelier, has crafted 

a Pinot Noir that’s modest in alcohol and brisk in 

acidity, with an elegantly earthy touch. It’s rich in cherries, 

pomegranates and dried herbs, a wine to savor and 

linger over as it warms up in the glass. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $32 

92 

Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Reserve Pinot 

Noir (Carneros). Lovely, crisp acidity marks 

this dry, complex Pinot Noir. It’s not an ager, but very 

elegant, with delicate sour-cherry candy, cola and mushroom 

flavors. A great wine to serve with mushroombased 

entrées. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $45 

92 

Calera 2009 Reed Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan). 

This shows a delicate silkiness and a sweet 

essence of wild raspberries that make it fully ready to 

drink now. But that quality obscures its subtleties of 

mineral, mushroomy earth and flower notes that add to 

this Pinot’s great complexity. As good as it is now, it will 

have no trouble negotiating the next decade. Cellar Selection. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $52 

92 

Davis Family 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian 

River Valley). A consummate Russian River 

Pinot Noir in an accessible style. This is simply enchanting, 

like raspberry-infused silk dusted with brown butter, 

cinnamon and vanilla. Showing just beautifully now, 

this is soft and gentle, and it should glide through the 

next six years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $40 

92 

Davis Family 2009 Soul Patch Pinot Noir 

(Russian River Valley). This is delicious in 

raspberry and cherry jam and cola flavors, with a mushroom 

and grilled hamburger note that adds to its appeal. 

Dry and crisp, it could develop complexity over 

the years, but there’s no reason not to give it a decanting 

and enjoy it now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $45 

92 

Freeman 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River 

Valley). A beautiful Pinot to drink now, this is 

elegant and supple, with crisp acidity and a delightfully 

light texture. However, there’s nothing light about the

flavors, which suggest wild forest berry, softened cola, 

mushroom, dried pine and spice, enhanced with a subtle 

jacket of sandalwood. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $44 

92 

Freeman 2010 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir 

(Russian River Valley). Delicious and spicy, 

this has notes of cherry pie filling, cola, dried forest herb 

and leaf, with a touch of sweet, smoky, vanilla-tinged 

oak. It’s a bit on the brawny side, but then, these Keefer 

Ranch Pinots always start out that way. Don’t drink it 

now because it’s just too hefty; give it six years in a proper 

cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $48 

92 

Lucie 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). 

Lots of ripe, cheerful flavors of raspberry 

and cherry jam and cola are found in this vibrant wine. 

It shows oak, too, in the form of sweet buttered cinnamon 

toast. The mouthfeel is pure Pinot: silky, velvety 

and delicate. Delicious for drinking now with everything 

from grilled steak to ahi tuna. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $60 

92 

MacPhail 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see 

page 6. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $49 

92 

Von Holt 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review 

see page 7. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $39 

92 

Walt 2010 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 

Hills). For full review see page 7. 

abv: 15.2% Price: $60 

91 

Acacia 2010 Roberts Road Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Sonoma Coast). As delicious as 

Pinot Noir gets, this has fireworks of raspberries, cherries 

and cola, and a sweet, mushroom-like essence of 

earth. Then the depth kicks in. It’s not a big, tannic 

wine, but rather soft, with enormous charm and immediate 

appeal. Drink now–2016. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $65 

91 

Drew 2010 Telfryn & Calder Pinot Noir 

(Anderson Valley). Spice marks this dry, delicate 

offering, with notes of white pepper, cinnamon 

and nutmeg. But it’s also richly fruity in wild cherries 

and raspberries. In recent years, Drew has been producing 

remarkably complex and ageworthy Pinots, and 

this lovely wine, which is not a single-vineyard bottling, 

shows the winery’s continued mastery. It’s a particular 

success given the enormous challenges of the 2010 vintage. 

Drink now–2018. —S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $38 

91 

Furthermore 2009 La Encantada Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is 

Furthermore’s fruitiest, most accessible ’09 Pinot Noir. 

If you love fruit, you’ll savor the endless flavors of raspberries, 

cherries and persimmons that are brightened 

with a squeeze of zesty, lime-like acidity and enriched 

with the smoky creaminess of oak. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $40 

91 

Kynsi 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Made in the 

Kynsi style, this is direct and delicious, made for drinking 

now. The wild raspberry and cherry flavors have a 

brightness and acidity that make them savory. —S.H. 

abv: 13.7% Price: $39 

91 

Kynsi 2009 Stone Corral Vineyard Estate 

Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). This is absolutely 

delicious, with raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors 

that go on and on. Great Central Coast acidity provides 

needed tartness to balance the richness. It’s a beautiful, 

ripe, flashy and sophisticated Pinot Noir, showing 

the early drinkability and freshness of the Edna Valley. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $48 

91 

MacPhail 2010 Wightman House Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full 

review see page 8. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $55 

91 

Pali 2010 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Very delicious and savory 

if a little hot in alcohol, this has flavors of raspberry 

and cherry jam, buttery pie crust and vanilla that are 

flecked with red pepper flakes. It’s not an ager, but it 

is an elegant, flashy wine for pairing with tuna, lamb or 

steak. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $54 

91 

Stemmler 2009 Ferguson Block Pinot 

Noir (Carneros). Strong in fruit, this is a high 

octane Pinot that floods the mouth with ripe flavors of 

cherry and blackberry Life Saver candy, Dr. Pepper and 

sweetly toasted cedar. It has an elegant structure and a 

silky mouthfeel that make it especially attractive. This 

should develop complexity over the next 6–8 years. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $44 

91 

Stemmler 2009 Nugent Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Russian River Valley). This still immature 

Pinot has tobacco-infused cherry, cola and 

pomegranate flavors that are liberally oaked and spiced. 

It’s O.K. to drink immediately if you like freshness and 

vibrancy, but aging it for six years or even longer could 

reward. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $42 

91 

Topel 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Monterey). 

Dry and elegant, this is not a blockbuster. 

It doesn’t grab you by the collar and shake you 

with its power. Instead, it flatters with finesse. Crisp 

acidity and a silky texture house subtle cherry-skin, cola 

and spice flavors. It’s a great companion for food that 

will complement it, not overwhelm it. Drink now–2015. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $40 

91 

TR Elliott 2009 Burgonet Pinot Noir (Russian 

River Valley). Right up there with the 

rich ’08, Elliott’s 2009 offers plenty of serious tasting 

pleasure. It’s rich and ripe in raspberries and cherries, 

with complex notes of mushrooms, cola, herbs and spic- 

es. Dry and silky, it’s a classy Pinot Noir for drinking 

over the next several years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $44 

90 

Belle Glos 2010 Las Alturas Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This 

bottling has varied over the vintages, but 2010 has produced 

a softly lush, rich Pinot for drinking now. It’s as 

tasty as a dessert confection, with flavors of raspberry 

jam, buttercream and cinnamon toast, balanced with 

acidity. For all the richness, it finishes properly dry. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $44 

90 

Belle Glos 2010 Taylor Lane Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Sonoma Coast). Like the winery’s 

other 2010 Pinots, this one’s seems sweet and jammy in 

raspberries, cherries and cola, with lots of caramelized 

new-oak tones. It definitely appeals for its opulence, but 

would benefit from greater subtlety. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $44 

90 

Black Kite 2009 Kite’s Rest Pinot Noir 

(Anderson Valley). Right out of the bottle, 

it’s a bit clumsy, but airing quickly lets it mellow, so give 

it some time in a decanter. Delicious in cherry, cola, bacon, 

cinnamon toast and other classic cool-climate Pinot 

flavors, it shows a racy acidity that makes it vibrant. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $42 

90 

Black Kite 2009 Stony Terrace Pinot Noir 

(Anderson Valley). Tasted in May of 2012, 

this shows an immaturity, where all the parts haven’t yet 

come together. It has a big, rich black-cherry flavor, with 

elaborate smoky oak, brisk acidity, firm tannins and heat 

from the alcohol all vying for dominance. Needs time; 

cellar it until 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $52 

90 

Calera 2009 Jensen Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan). 

In its youth, this tastes rich and candied, 

like a cherry, vanilla and buttercream pastry. It’s delicious, 

savory and fun, a very easy wine to drink with a 

great steak or chop. With its delicate texture, it should 

probably last quite a few years, without necessarily gaining 

in complexity. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $73 

90 

Cuvaison 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). 

One of Cuvaison’s best basic Pinots in years, this 

is charming with its dry, crisp structure, silky elegance 

and fine flavors of raspberries, cherries and toasty oak. 

While not an ager, it’s a beautiful wine to pair with tuna, 

salmon, lamb or steak. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $35 

90 

Furthermore 2009 Amber Ridge Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dry and 

exceptionally rich, this has a fleshiness that suggests it 

could use some time in the cellar. It’s strongly ripe in 

wild raspberries and cherries, with a spicy, minty pine 

note that’s attractive. Mouthwatering acidity suggests 

this can use 4–6 years of aging, but it can also be consumed 

now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 


90 

Kynsi 2009 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). The 

translucency, acidity and laserlike purity of red 

berry fruit make this Pinot Noir uniquely Edna Valley. 

It’s as delicate as silk, yet packs a real flavor and spice 

punch. Very finely crafted, it’s a fine, dry wine to drink 

now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $32 

90 

MacPhail 2010 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir 

(Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 9. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $49 

90 

MacPhail 2010 Toulouse Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see 

page 9. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $49 

90 

Saxon Brown 2009 Parmelee-Hill Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This 

small-production single-vineyard Pinot Noir is dry, elegant 

and may be deceptively simple in its youth. It feels 

delicate now, almost fragile, with the suggestion of barely 

ripe cherries and cola that’s been left out overnight 

so it loses its spritz. It’s a wine of nuance, not power, 

and could easily develop dramatically over the next six 


abv: 14.5% Price: $48 

89 

Belle Glos 2010 Clark & Telephone Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Very 

rich and flamboyant, this may even be a little over the 

top. It shows a tremendous essence of raspberries and 

cherries that have been folded into mascarpone cream 

and dusted with cinnamon and brown sugar. It’s delicious, 

seemingly sweet and dramatic, but somewhat obvious 

in its appeal. Even the winemaker calls it “Christmas 

in the mouth.” Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $44 

89 

Black Kite 2009 River Turn Pinot Noir 

(Anderson Valley). It’s very acidic and also 

a little hot in alcohol, and the combination of the two 

gives this a prickly taste and feeling. On the other hand, 

it’s enormously rich and delicious in raspberries, cherries 

and cola, with all kinds of spicy, mushroomy, oaky 

nuances. —S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $52 

89 

Migration 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River 

Valley). A wildly delicious Pinot Noir, offering 

flashy raspberry and cherry jam flavors. It’s soft and 

silky, just like you want a nice Pinot to be. Drink now for 

its silky, youthful appeal. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $34 

89 

Sanford 2010 La Rinconada Pinot Noir 

(Sta. Rita Hills). This is curiously soft considering 

the cool vintage. Still, it’s delicious in raspberry 

and cherry jam flavors, with a spiciness that lasts 

through the long finish. It seems wise to drink it now. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $60 

89 

Sonnet 2009 Muns Vineyard Pinot Noir 

(Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s lots to like 

in this interestingly textured Pinot Noir. It’s dry and 

silky and has a bite of tannins that longs to dig into a 

grilled steak or lamb chop. The cherry fruit flavors are 


enriched with smoky oak. It seems best now and over 

the next few years. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

89 

Stemmler 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). 

With cherry Life Saver candy flavors and lots of 

zingy acidity, this has a sweet and sour taste that makes it 

savory. It’s delicately structured and silky in the mouth, 

and it will be good over the next six years or so. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $42 

88 

Corkscrew 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 

Coast). This is not a superrich wine, but it’s 

ele gant, fresh, vibrant and clean in acidity. It has flavors 

of oak-inspired cherry, Canadian bacon and spice. 

Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $44 

88 

Handley 2009 Pinot Noir (Mendocino 

County). This is a good vintage for Handley’s 

Mendocino blend, a mishmash from various vineyards 

throughout the county. The wine has structure and 

bright acidity, with its intensity tucked between its layers. 

This can likely age. —V.B. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $25 

88 

Jim Ball 2009 Boonville Pinot Noir (Anderson 

Valley). As rich, ripe and flashy as any 

Pinot Noir out there. It floods the mouth with jammy 

raspberries and cherries, with smoky oak sweetness like 

pie crust, sprinkled with cinnamon and brown sugar. 

Drink soon. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $50 

88 

Pali 2010 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir 

(Sta. Rita Hills). If you’re sensitive to high alcohol 

in Pinot Noir, this might not be for you. If you’re 

not, you’ll probably find the richness impressive. Although 

it’s technically dry, it seems sweet and delicious 

like a raspberry tart that’s sprinkled with cocoa 

and brown sugar, with a buttery, smoky crust. Ready to 

drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 15.8% Price: $54 

88 

Saxon Brown 2009 Durell Vineyard Hayfield 

Block Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). 

This tastes soft and simple now, although considering 

the vineyard sourcing, that could be misleading. There’s 

a core of raspberry and cherry fruit, with intriguing forest 

notes of dried pine needles and mushrooms. The 

acidity is just right, neither bright nor too soft. The wine 

isn’t showing much now, but could be a sleeper. Try after 

2015. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $48 

88 

Stephen Ross 2009 Stone Corral Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). There’s always 

lots of acidity in Pinots from the Edna Valley, 

but this one has more than usual, courtesy of the cool 

vintage. Although it’s tart, it’s entirely dry, and is loaded 

with raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s silky enough to 

drink now and over the next few years. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $52 

88 

Windstream 2010 Sarmento Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Nicely 

dry, silky and delicate in structure, this has pleasant 

cherry and cola flavors that are brightened by acidity. 

It finishes with the sweetness of toasted oak. While it’s 

not particularly complex, it does offer plenty of varietal 

pleasure. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $40 

87 

Acacia 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is 

a soft, rich Pinot Noir, bursting in cherry pie and 

cola flavors. It has a nice edge of acidity, and it finishes 

dry and exotically spicy. A textbook Carneros wine, it’s 

meant to drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $28 

87 

Acacia 2010 Lone Tree Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Carneros). Delicious, but kind of heavy 

for a Pinot Noir. It has rich, heady flavors of cherry and 

blackberry jam, touched with sweet, smoky oak, and a 

spicy finish. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $45 

87 

Acacia 2010 Lone Tree Vineyard Barrel 

Selection Pinot Noir (Carneros). This has 

lots of fine, upfront cherry, cola, mocha and oak flavors 

in this Pinot. It’s a little on the soft side, lacking 

the structure for aging. But it’s a pretty wine to drink 

now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $45 

87 

Acacia 2010 Winery Lake Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Carneros). This pours unusually dark 

for a Pinot Noir and tastes heavy, like a Grenache. It 

actually tastes pretty flashy, with deep, delicious blackcherry 

and cola flavors, but it’s a little too full bodied 

for the variety, lacking delicacy and subtlety. Drink now. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $32 

87 

Drew 2010 Valenti Vineyard Pinot Noir 

(Mendocino Ridge). Elaborately rich, this 

has flavors suggestive of raspberries and cherries baked 

into a pie, with the brown sugar and smoky pie crust 

sweetness of a pastry. That doesn’t mean the wine is 

sweet; it’s actually dry, but just tastes candied. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $42 

87 

Jim Ball 2009 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). 

This is a solid Pinot, ripe in raspberries 

and cherries, with fine coastal acidity and firm tannins. 

It has a silky mouthfeel the way Pinot Noir should. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $45 

87 

Jim Ball 2009 Les Pintades Pinot Noir 

(Anderson Valley). Everything about this 

Pinot is upfront, but it’s beautiful. Softly appealing, with 

a silky mouthfeel, it offers flattering raspberry and cherry 

jam flavors, with smoky, sweet, buttery notes. The 

softness suggests that the wine is not ageable. —S.H. 


87 

Pali 2010 Rancho La Viña Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Delicious and easy to 

like, and even if it is a little one dimensional, it’s very 

pleasant. Dry, silky and crisp, it offers upfront raspberry, 

cola and new oak flavors. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 15.7% Price: $54 

87 

Pali 2010 Windsor Oaks Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Russian River Valley). A gentle, easy

to drink Pinot, with pleasantly complex flavors of raspberry 

and cherry pie filling and new oak. The alcohol is 

high, making for a burn that might offend Pinot purists. 

But most fans will appreciate its sheer deliciousness. 


abv: 15.3% Price: $50 

87 

Riverbench 2010 Mesa Pinot Noir (Santa 

Maria Valley). This is a full-bodied, sumptuous 

Pinot Noir that’s filled with candied, pie-filling flavors 

of black cherries, licorice, mocha and spices. While it’s 

a bit common in texture, it does provide plenty of pleasure. 


abv: 14.6% Price: $48 

87 

Stephen Ross 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa 

Lucia Highlands). This is somewhat lean, 

but its elegantly tailored in its brisk acidity and dryness. 

While the cherry and berry flavors are modest, 

the wine’s austerity makes it versatile with an enormous 

range of foods. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $38 

87 

Wattle Creek 2010 Pinot Noir (Yorkville 

Highlands). This is a thick, earthy Pinot that 

sparks thoughts of dark cherries and mushrooms among 

layers of cola, spice and bacon atop toast. —V.B. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $30 

87 

Wente 2009 Reliz Creek Pinot Noir (Arroyo 

Seco). Dry and elegant, with the silky 

texture and cherry flavors you want in a good bottle. 

Yes, it’s a little light in body and intensity, but the price 

is pretty good for a Pinot with this much varietal pleasure. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

86 

Annabella 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 

Coast). This isn’t the most powerful, impressive 

Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast, but it has a lot 

going for it. It’s bone dry, crisply acidic and elegant on 

the palate, with a flavor of sour cherry candy that’s savory 

and clean. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $17 

86 

Bridlewood 2010 Pinot Noir (Monterey 

County). This is a sound Pinot Noir, rich in 

raspberry jam, toast and vanilla flavors, with lots of zingy 

coastal acidity. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $20 

86 

Girasole Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir 

(Mendocino). There aren’t too many California 

Pinots lying around at $16. A Pinot made from 

organic grapes, this has a strawberry note in the foreground, 

followed by a peppery, spicy undertone. With 

its weight and depth on the finish, it’ll hold up to a range 

of meals. —V.B. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $16 

86 

J. Wilkes 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria 

Valley). A good Pinot, this is perfectly acceptable 

for everyday purposes. Maybe it’s a little pricy, but 

you get a dry, tart wine, with cherry, cola and mushroom 

flavors. Drink up. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $24 

86 

J. Wilkes 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria 

Valley). Notes of crushed spices accent the 

black cherry and plum flavors of this Pinot, making it 

savory. It’s a dry wine, crisp in coastal acidity and a little 

rough in texture. Not going anywhere, so drink up. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $24 

86 

Lockwood 2009 Pinot Noir (Monterey 

County). This is dry and silky, with enough 

acidity to provide life to the modest cherry and cola 

flavors. It’s pretty good for the price, because in Pinot 

Noir, you get what you pay for. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $17 

86 

Pali 2010 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma 

Coast). Made in a drink-me-now style, 

this is a delicately balanced wine, rich in oak, with a 

wealth of raspberries and cherries. It’s soft, delicious 

and a little high in alcohol. —S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $54 

86 

Riverbench 2010 Estate Grown Pinot 

Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Soft and sweet in 

cherry cola and spice flavors, this displays Pinot’s lovely 

silkiness. It’s a nice wine, yet lacks that extra complexity 

and nuance you want in the variety. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $28 

86 

San Simeon 2010 Pinot Noir (Monterey). 

A simple but likeable Pinot Noir, this is lightbodied, 

dry and clean, with brisk, mouthwatering acidity. 

The flavors suggest cherry and raspberry Life Savers, 

with a hit of mint tea. Ready to drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $24 

86 

Sanford 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). 

This has nowhere near the complexity of Sanford’s 

single-vineyard bottlings. It seems pricy for what 

you get, which is a basic Pinot that’s dry and silky, with 

pleasant cherry candy and cola flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $42 

86 

Sonoma-Loeb 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian 

River Valley). This is a simple but delicious 

Pinot Noir. It has candied cherry flavors that are sweet 

and sour, with lots of toasty, vanilla-scented oak. Drink 

up. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $42 

86 

Stomping Girl 2010 Unhinged Pinot Noir 

(Sonoma County). Dry, spicy and elegantly 

structured, this is a little rugged around the edges in 

texture, but the black raspberry and cola flavors are 

savory. —S.H. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $28 

85 

Baldacci 2010 Elizabeth Pinot Noir 

(Carneros). Cabernet specialist Baldacci tries 

their hand at Pinot Noir, and what do you know? It’s a 

Cabernet-esque Pinot, which means its heavy and full 

bodied. There’s plenty of savory blackberry essence, 

but the challenge is to bring grace and lightness to this 

variety. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

85 

Cline 2010 Cool Climate Pinot Noir (Sonoma 

Coast). Acidity dominates this Pinot, 

giving it a tingly scour. While it’s silky and dry, the cherry 

fruit is a little slender. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $18 

85 

Fleur 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). What 

this Pinot is not is ageable and dramatic, but 

it’s a good expression of the variety: silky and dry, with 

savory cherry-skin and spice flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $17 

85 

Sonnet 2009 Tondre’s Grapefield Pinot 

Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Some unripe 

vegetal notes mar what is otherwise a fine, silky 

Pinot Noir, with flavors of raspberry cream and cinnamon 

spice. Give this lots of breathing before you drink 

it. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $40 

85 

Stephen Ross 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard 

Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). 

Tight, acidic and a little green, this lacks the generosity 

and opulence you expect of a Pinot Noir from this famous 

vineyard. The cherry fruit is laced with mint and 

tobacco leaf notes. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $38 

85 

Stomping Girl 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian 

River Valley). Dry and tart in sour cherry candy 

and cola flavors, this Pinot has hints of mint and tobacco 

that suggest the grapes weren’t completely ripe. 


abv: 14.4% Price: $36 

85 

Villa Mt. Eden 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 

Coast). Although it’s not especially rich, it 

does offer basic Pinot Noir characteristics, with a silky 

mouthfeel framing sour cherry-candy flavors that are 

brightened with acidity. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $20 

84 

Drew 2010 Weir Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yorkville 

Highlands). There’s a Porty overripeness 

all through this wine, like concentrated raisins and 

prunes. Although it’s basically dry, it has a raisiny sweetness, 

especially toward the finish. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $42 

84 

Kirkland Signature 2009 Pinot Noir 

(Carneros). Simple, dry and one dimensional, 

this has cola and cherry jam flavors, and a silky, delicate 

texture. —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $10 

84 

Sean Minor 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). 

Simple and agreeable, this can be paired with 

a burger or beef taco. It’s dry and clean, with pleasant 

cherry and cola flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $22 

84 

Stephen Ross 2010 Pinot Noir (Central 

Coast). Dry and acidic, this has flavors of green 

mint and sour cherry candy. Not likely to improve with 

age, but give it an hour in the decanter to let it soften. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $24 

84 

Walt 2010 Hein Family Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Anderson Valley). The first noticeable 


aspect is that it seems to have no structure. The cherry, 

cola and pomegranate flavors have been elaborately 

oaked, but there’s nothing for the mouth to grip onto. 

—S.H. 


83 

Chime 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). 

A light style of Pinot Noir, this is dry and 

racy. It offers good persimmon and cola flavors, and is 

very spicy. A trace of green is distracting. —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $19 

82 

Bogle 2010 Pinot Noir (California). A small 

Pinot Noir, this is dry and vegetal, with modest 

cherry flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $11 

82 

Decoy 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). 

Dry and delicately structured, with sour cherry 

Life Saver flavors. There’s a disagreeably green, unripe 

streak that is distracting. —S.H. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $22 

82 

Fleur 2010 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). 

Not much going on in this dry, acidic Pinot Noir. 

The cherry fruit is thin, allowing the alcohol to show 

through. —S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $15 

82 

Heart O’ The Mountain 2009 Pinot Noir 

(Santa Cruz Mountains). Soft and simple, 

this has overripe prune-jam flavors. It tastes baked and 

dessicated by the heat. —S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $48 

82 

Heart O’ The Mountain 2009 Estate Reserve 

Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). 

This is too ripe, with a disagreeable pruny taste. The 

wine is dry and full bodied, but is almost like a minor 

Port. The official alcohol reading is 14.8% by volume, 

but it tastes higher and hotter than that. —S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $48 

81 

Gracianna 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Russian River Valley). Green, unripe 

vegetal flavors mark this Pinot Noir. It does have 

some decent raspberry and cherry flavors, but turns 

sour on the finish. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $48 

GRENACHE 

88 

a-non-ah-mus 2009 Alisos Vineyard 

Gren ache (Santa Barbara County). This 

has notes of raspberries, cherries and whipped cream. 

It’s addictively drinkable, showing none of the problems 

Grenache so often encounters. Enjoy it now for its 

fresh, irrepressible appeal. —S.H. 

abv: 15.6% Price: $30 

88 

Austin Hope 2010 Grenache (Paso Robles). 

This polished wine is rich, dry and pretty 

much as complex as Grenache manages to get in California. 

With the weight of a silky Pinot Noir, it has pleasant 

cherry, teriyaki beef and white pepper flavors, with a 

touch of overripe raisin on the finish. —S.H. 



82 

Calcareous 2009 Grenache (Paso Robles). 

This is a harsh, sweet wine whose balance 

and mouthfeel are slightly off. It has ripe, Grenache-like 

flavors of cherry pie filling. —S.H. 

abv: 15.2% Price: $36 

81 

10 Knots 2009 Moonraker Grenache 

(Paso Robles). Hot in alcohol, simple in everything 

else, this Grenache has thin, overripe pruny 

flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $35 

SYRAH/SHIRAZ 

94 

Montagna 2009 Triangle Syrah (Napa Valley). 

Made in a rich, ripe style that perhaps favors 

power over elegance, this is delicious from start to 

finish. It’s a big, intense wine, massive in blackberry and 

mocha flavors, with a bacon meatiness that’s part Syrah, 

part smoky oak. While it’s a little obvious in its appeals, 

it does show Syrah at its flashy Napa best. —S.H. 

abv: 15.1% Price: $60 

93 

La Sirena 2007 Barrett Vineyard Syrah 

(Calistoga). This Syrah tries to strike a balance 

between rich opulence and controlled elegance, 

and it largely succeeds. It’s has exquisite tannins and 

fine acidity, finishing bone dry. The flavors are complex, 

immediately suggesting ripe blackberries, with notes of 

beef tartare, grilled wild mushrooms splashed with tamari, 

black pepper and minerals. You can draw analogies 

to the northern Rhône if you want. Will it age? Hard to 

say, but it’s a great wine now. —S.H. 


93 

Super Sonoman 2008 Syrah (Sonoma 

County). This is delicious, right up there with 

a great Cabernet. First of all, there’s the smoothly tannic 

and velvety mouthfeel. Then there’s the flavors that are 

wildly attractive in blackberries, black licorice, crispy 

bacon and something purple and flowery, like violets. 

The grapes comes from a vineyard in the Mayacamas 

range that only qualifies for the county appellation. It’s 

expensive, yes, but it tastes expensive. —S.H. 


92 

a-non-ah-mus 2009 Alisos Vineyard Syrah 

(Santa Barbara County). This is made in 

a ripe, high-alcohol style, which gives it a little burning 

sensation, like Cognac. The flavors certainly are 

delicious, exploding with blackberries, blueberries, dark 

chocolate and roasted oak. The tannin-acid structure is 

intricate and smooth. —S.H. 


91 

Vagabond 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley). A 

nice interpretation of Syrah, this shows fine 

Napa elegance and structure. Dry and complex, this 

100% Syrah has flavors of ripe, crushed blackberry fruit, 

raw beef, iron and black pepper, with a touch of smoky 

oak. Try now with beef tartare or carpaccio for something 

different. —S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $60 

90 

Austin Hope 2010 Hope Family Vineyard 

Syrah (Paso Robles). High alcohol gives this 

wine a slight burn, but if that doesn’t bother you, you’ll 

find lots to like here. It’s soft, dryish and rich in black 

cherry, mocha, grilled meat and black pepper flavors. 

Oak adds just the right touch of sweet vanilla and toast. 

—S.H. 


90 

Carr 2009 Morehouse Vineyard Syrah 

(Santa Ynez Valley). This Syrah is considerably 

lighter in body than you’d expect for a variety that’s 

often heavy and full bodied. It has the silkiness of a Pinot 

Noir, and it’s dry and complex in wild berry, leather, 

black pepper and cedar flavors. It shows lots of elegance 

throughout, and could even pick up bottle notes over 

the next six years. —S.H. 


89 

Four Cairn 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). The 

last few vintages of this wine have been variable. 

This one plays it safe, going right down the middle in 

delivering blackberry, peppered steak and new oak flavors. 

It’s a little on the soft side, suggesting that it’s ready 

to drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $38 

88 

Drew 2010 Perli Vineyard Syrah (Mendocino 

Ridge). Made from low-yielding 

vines, this is an absolutely dry Syrah—acidic and tannic. 

It doesn’t show much richness, bearing black pepper, 

iodine and charred beef flavors, with a deep inner core 

of wild blackberries. It’s complex rather than opulent— 

a wine to experience through the intellect, not just the 

senses. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $38 

87 

Corkscrew 2007 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). 

Marked by dryness, brisk tannins and tart acidity, 

this Syrah’s saving grace are rich flavors of blackberries, 

teriyaki beef and Baker’s chocolate. Your best 

bet is to drink it soon. —S.H. 

abv: 13.1% Price: $35 

87 

Niner 2008 Bootjack Ranch Syrah (Paso 

Robles). Niner has been nothing if not consistent 

with this Syrah for years. The 2008 tastes as fresh 

as the day it was bottled. It’s rich and spicy in flavors of 

blackberry, roasted meat and black pepper. It’s a little 

country in its rustic texture and a little city in its charms. 

Drink now with beef stew, tamales, tacos or barbecued 

ribs. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $25 

84 

San Simeon 2008 Syrah (Paso Robles). 

This Syrah is bone dry, tannic and simple. The 

blackberry jam and pepper flavors are tasty, but unable 

to rise above the astringency. Drink now. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

84 

San Simeon 2008 Syrah (Monterey). 

There’s too much acidity in this Syrah. It cuts 

across the blackberry flavors like a hot knife. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $25 

81 

Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Shiraz (California). 

This is thin and uninspiring, but it’s dry, 

with watery berry and spice flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 13% Price: $8

81 

Paredon 2007 Syrah (Santa Barbara 

County). This Syrah is overripe. It has a taste 

of raisins and prunes —a baked, Porty quality—like the 

grapes had been grilled before being made into wine. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $25 

PETITE SIRAH 

92 

Girard 2010 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). 

Girard’s recent Petite Sirahs have been great, 

really defining a Napa approach to the variety, and their 

2010 is right up there. It’s fairly high in alcohol, but 

there’s no trace of overripeness. You’ll find delicious 

blackberry jam, black currant, grilled bacon and black 

pepper flavors that finish dry, spicy and above all, satisfying. 

Wonderful now, but it should easily negotiate the 

next 10 years in the bottle. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $28 

91 

Keating 2009 Petite Sirah (Rockpile). 

A big, strong, bold Petite Sirah, showing the 

variety’s usual power, dryness and tannins. The warmto-hot 

Rockpile appellation has ripened the wine to an 

incredible density of blackberries and roasted meats, 

yet the wine shows finesse despite its high alcohol. This 

will age for many years without developing additional 

interest, so drink now with lusty barbecue or beef and 

game stews. —S.H. 

abv: 15.1% Price: $38 

89 

Varozza 2008 Petite Sirah (St. Helena). 

This is a strongly flavored, brawny, tannic and 

heady wine. In other words, it’s classic Petite Sirah. The 

variety does particularly well in St. Helena, whose heat 

brings extra ripeness, but whose cool nights preserve 

acidity. Varozza’s ’08 has delicious flavors of black currant, 

plum, bacon and black pepper; it should last at 

least a decade. —S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $50 

87 

Niner 2008 Bootjack Ranch Petite Sirah 

(Paso Robles). There’s a tight, tannic coarseness 

to this Petite Sirah that makes it a little bitter and 

difficult. On the other hand, it’s elegantly structured, 

with a rich core of blackberries. This suggests ageability, 

it could improve in the bottle. —S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $24 

85 

Fleur 2009 Petite Sirah (North Coast). A 

light style of Petite Sirah, this is softly drinkable 

now, offering a wealth of cherry, mocha and tobacco flavors 

and gentle tannins. —S.H. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $13 

82 

Field Stone 2008 Staten Family Reserve 

Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley). A thin 

wine, this has light blackberry fruit, and while it’s nicely 

dry, the tannins are strong and sticky, and the alcohol 

is very high, lending a slight burn to the palate. —S.H. 

abv: 15.5% Price: $35 

82 

Pennywise 2010 Petite Sirah (California). 

A simple, rustic wine, this is fairly sweet and 

tannic, with blackberry and raisin flavors. A burger or 

sloppy Joe on a bun will be just fine as a pairing. —S.H. 


80 

Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Petite Sirah 

(California). This doesn’t taste quite ripe, with 

its green, stemmy flavors, but it’s sugary sweet in cherry 

Life Saver candy. —S.H. 

abv: 13.6% Price: $8 

ZINFANDEL 

91 

Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel 

(Dry Creek Valley). This Zinfandel, 

made using grapes from vines the winery says average 

90 years of age, is pretty and polished. It’s surprisingly 

light in body, with a silky, transparent mouthfeel, but 

the flavors are very complex. The usual wild berry and 

tobacco flavors are apparent, but there are extra notes of 

espresso, cocoa, sweet herb, beef jerky and an extravagant 

array of dusty Asian spices. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $30 

90 

V. Sattui 2009 Gilsson Vineyard Zinfandel 

(Russian River Valley). The winery has been 

on a roll the last few years with Zinfandels that not only 

are delicious, but show real class. With this bottling. V. 

Sattui captures the essence of ripe, heady Russian River 

Zinfandel. Yes, the alcohol is high, but that’s Zinfandel 

for you, and without it you wouldn’t have that ripe, spicy 

berry-pie flavor that’s as soft as candy. Ready to drink 

now. —S.H. 


89 

V. Sattui 2009 Ramazzotti Vineyard Zinfandel 

(Dry Creek Valley). This lusty Zin 

shows the briary, brambly character of Dry Creek Valley 

that always makes its Zins taste a little rustic, which 

in no way detracts from its deliciousness. Dry and rich 

in tannins, it has long, deep flavors of spices, perfectly 

ripe summer berries and an herbal bitterness suggestive 

of chamomile tea and wild nettles. A better pizza wine 

cannot be imagined. —S.H. 


88 

Kunde 2009 Reserve Century Vines Zinfandel 

(Sonoma Valley). This is not Kunde’s 

best Reserve, but its entirely satisfying. It floods the 

mouth with lusty, spicy flavors of wild berry, currant, 

cola and tobacco that are wrapped into intricately woven 

tannins. It finishes dry, but a little hot. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $40 

87 

Gracianna 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Zinfandel 

(Russian River Valley). There are 

massive flavors in this wine, and they’re delicious. It just 

floods the mouth with milk chocolate, raspberry cream 

and cherry pie-filling flavors. The wine is pretty high 

in alcohol, but it’s a classically rich, ripe Sonoma Zin. 

—S.H. 

abv: 15.9% Price: $42 

87 

Lake Sonoma 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek 

Valley). Dry and spicy, this has lots of upfront 

fruit in the form of wild raspberries and cherries, and 

rich tannins that make it great for pairing with grilled 

steaks and chops. —S.H. 


87 

Miro 2010 Grist Vineyard Old Vines Zinfandel 

(Dry Creek Valley). So concentrat- 

ed in sweet raspberry and cherry fruit, it’s basically all 

about jam. It’s a delicious wine, a little on the rustic 

side, but appealing. The sweetness, tannins and acidity 

should allow this to pair well with Mexican food. —S.H. 


87 

Miro 2010 Piccetti Vineyard Zinfandel 

(Dry Creek Valley). With its tangy acidity, 

touches of green peppercorns and edgy tannins, this 

is a rustic wine. Fortunately, it has a lot of blackberry 

and dark chocolate flavors, with that distinctive briary 

character of Dry Creek Zins. Drink now with roasted or 

grilled meats or a vegetarian lasagna. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $28 

86 

Ancient Peaks 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). 

Here’s a rich, heady Zinfandel. It defines 

the ripe, warm-climate style, with flavors of wild berry 

jam, chocolate and spice that are wrapped into firm tannins. 

With a slightly sweet finish, it’s a nice Zin to drink 

with barbecue. —S.H. 


86 

The Federalist 2009 Visionary Zinfandel 

(Dry Creek Valley). This is a soft, easy-drinking 

Zinfandel to enjoy now with everything from meatballs 

and spaghetti to barbecue. It’s dry and silky, with 

pleasant raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $25 

85 

Crooked Path 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). 

You can call this wine country-style because 

it’s a simple little Zin, but it has a certain charm. 

Drink it with a nice pizza or meatball hoagie and enjoy 

the black raspberry and pepper flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $24 

85 

XYZin 2010 10 Year Old Vines Zinfandel 

(California). Robust and lusty, spicy and 

fruity, this has sweet berry and cola flavors. Drink it with 

savory fare, like pizza and barbecue. —S.H. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $16 

84 

Decoy 2010 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). 

Simple, fruity and sweet tasting, this has chocolate-covered 

raisin and blueberry jam flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $22 

84 

Minassian-Young 2010 1000 Vines Zinfandel 

(Paso Robles). This seems sweet like 

a Port. It tastes like raspberry and cherry jam, with lots 

of heat from the alcohol. —S.H. 

abv: 14.8% Price: $25 

84 

Minassian-Young 2010 Estate Zinfandel 

(Paso Robles). With very high alcohol, this is 

almost a dessert, Port-style wine. It’s soft and hot, with 

sweet blackberry jam, milk chocolate and licorice flavors. 

—S.H. 

abv: 15.4% Price: $25 

84 

Napa Cellars 2010 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). 

This is a vigorous Zinfandel, fruity and 

soft, with berry, cola and spice flavors. Drink now with 

barbecue, burgers or beef burritos. —S.H. 

abv: 14.7% Price: $18 


84 

Plungerhead 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel 

(Dry Creek Valley). The mouthfeel has 

sandpapery tannins and some green peppercorn notes 

alongside riper flavors of blackberries and sweet currants. 

It’s a rustic Zin to drink with barbecue. —S.H. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $20 

84 

Twisted Sisters 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). 

This is for you, if you like your Zins in a 

sweet, soft style. It tastes like the filling from a blackberry 

and cherry pie, dusted with exotic spices, like cinnamon 

and black pepper. —S.H. 

abv: 15.8% Price: $20 

84 

V. Sattui 2009 Mounts Vineyard Zinfandel 

(Dry Creek Valley). There’s an unripe, green 

edge to this Zinfandel that detracts from its appeal. Yet 

it has some good blackberry fruit, and it’s nicely dry and 

tannic. Pair this with rich meats and cheeses to coax out 

the sweetness. —S.H. 


83 

Zinopolis 2011 Zinfandel (California). 

This is nowhere near ripe, with chlorophyll, 

white pepper and tobacco flavors. But the tannins are 

rich and fine, and the finish is dry. Drink with sausages 

to coax out the cherry flavor. —S.H. 


82 

Calcareous 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). 

This seems so sweet, it’s practically a 

Port dessert wine. It’s soft and simple, with chocolate 

and blackberry jam flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 16.2% Price: $34 

SANGIOVESE 

87 

Carr 2009 Vandale Vineyard Sangiovese 

(Santa Ynez Valley). This Sangiovese is 

marked by two things, extreme dryness and high acidity. 

It’s as light in the mouth as a Pinot Noir, with measured 

flavors of red cherries, raisins and pepper, and a toasty 

jacket of new oak. You can drink it now, but it needs rich 

Italian fare, with lots of cheese, olive oil and fatty meats, 

to tame those acids. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $35 

87 

Eberle 2009 Hidden Valley Vineyard 51%, 

Wine Bush Vineyard 36%, Filipponi & 

Thompson Vineyard 13% Sangiovese (Paso Robles). 

Eberle’s Sangioveses are always dry, acidic and 

cherried. On their own, they’re tight, rustic little monsters. 

Drink them with appropriate fare, and suddenly 

you’re in Tuscany. Get out your Italian cookbook and 

find something with beef, fettucine, ragu and plenty of 

cheese. —S.H. 


87 

Muscardini 2009 Monto Rosso Vineyard 

Sangiovese (Sonoma Valley). You’ll want 

to drink this wine with beef, cheese and richly sauced 

foods, in order to balance out the dryness and acidity. 

On its own, it’s austere, with cherry and sandalwood flavors. 

Rich, fatty fare will tame it and bring out the sweet 


abv: 15.7% Price: $36 



92 

Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Pocai 

Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). 


abv: 14.5% Price: $30 

92 

Kunde 2009 Limited Selection Petite Verdot 

(Sonoma Valley). A wonderful wine, one 

of the best Petite Verdots in California, although the 

truth is there aren’t all that many. It’s sturdy in tannins 

and richly textured, with delicious blackberry flavors 

that are a little earthier and drier than Cabernet Sauvignon. 

—S.H. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $35 

88 

Peachy Canyon 2009 Ms. Behave Malbec 

(Paso Robles). Lots of flashy, upfront blackberry 

and tamari-splashed grilled-beef flavor in this 

tasty wine. Plenty of savory spices, too. It’s a little rugged 

in the mouth, with scoury tannins, but will play well 

with beef, any way you cook it. —S.H. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $32 

88 

Wattle Creek 2009 Malbec (Alexander 

Valley). A dry, gritty red wine, lusty and tannic. 

The blackberry, cassis liqueur and smoky oak flavors 

suggest pairing with charred steak. —S.H. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $38 

87 

Eberle 2010 Steinbeck Vineyard 48%, Kokopelli 

Vineyard 43%, Partridge Vineyard 

9% Barbera (Paso Robles). Four qualities distinguish 

this Barbera. It’s bone dry, high in acidity, rigidly 

tannic and rich in cherries. By itself, it’s rustic and 

old-fashioned. But it’s the kind of wine the oldtimers 

drank with the cheese, meat, bread and sauce, and so 

should you. Like any respectable Barbera, it will age for 

decades, softening and sweetening without necessarily 

gaining complexity. —S.H. 

abv: 13.3% Price: $28 

DESSERT WINES 

88 

Robert Mondavi 2011 Moscato d’Oro 

(Napa Valley). This wine has plenty of honeyed 

sweetness. The apricot, orange and vanilla flavors 

are just delicious. Crisp acidity provides the perfect 

zesty balance. —S.H. 

abv: 8% Price: $20/375 ml 

87 

Ballentine 2011 Betty’s Vineyard Malvasia 

Bianca (St. Helena). Could almost be 

classified as a dry table wine, it’s so rich in acidity and 

minerally on the finish. However, there’s just enough 

honey to call it off-dry and dessert style. Either way, it’s 

a stylish wine, crisp and clean, with orange and pear flavors. 

Great as a simple accompaniment to fresh fruit, 

ricotta or mascarpone dishes. —S.H. 

abv: 9.5% Price: $29 

86 

Field Stone 2008 Staten Family Reserve 

Vintage Port (Alexander Valley). This is 

quite a sweet wine, rich and heady in chocolate, blackberry 

and blueberry jam and caramel flavors. It could 

be more concentrated, as it’s a little thin. The variety is 

Petite Sirah. —S.H. 

abv: 18.5% Price: $50 

86 

Valley of the Moon 2007 Late Bottled Vintage 

Port (Sonoma County). Intense sweetness 

goes a long way toward making this dessert wine 

delicious and satisfying. While it’s a bit lacking in fruity 

concentration, it does have good blackberry and milk 

chocolate flavors. —S.H. 

abv: 19% Price: $30/500 ml 

85 

Lost Angel 2010 Moscato (California). 

Rides the wave of the Moscato craze in America, 

offering sweet, honeyed flavors of tropical fruits, 

oranges and peaches. Zesty acidity provides just the 

tartness needed to balance all that richness. Best Buy. 

—S.H. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $10 

84 

Black Box 2010 Sweet Red Blend (California). 

Black Box hops onto the popular sweet 

red wine train with this blend. It is, as advertised, sweet, 

but not too much, giving a sugary edge to the blackberries 

and cherries. Best Buy. —S.H. 

abv: 12.8% Price: $25/3 L 

83 

Peju NV Delicias Zinfandel (Napa Valley). 

Despite lots of sugary sweetness and a fine burst 

of acidity, this dessert-style wine is watery thin in flavor. 

The raspberries and cherries taste diluted, leaving behind 

the impression of hot, high alcohol. —S.H. 

abv: 17.9% Price: $50/375 ml 

OREGON 

CHARDONNAY 

91 

Adelsheim 2010 Caitlin’s Reserve Chardonnay 

(Willamette Valley). Showing a lot 

of barrel toast in both nose and mouth, this backs its 

buttered apple flavor with plenty of acidity. It’s like biting 

into a crisp-tasting slice of apple pie; delicious now, 

or hold for another 4–6 years. —P.G. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $45 

89 

Adelsheim 2010 Chardonnay (Willamette 

Valley). Fine balance is a hallmark for all 

Adelsheim wines. This shows a mix of citrus and apple 

fruit, with the tartness of gooseberries as a nod to the 

cooler vintage. There is some pleasing complexity, with 

an emphasis on herbs and high-acid fruits. —P.G. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $22 

88 

Lange 2010 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). 

Fresh and spicy, this tart young Chard has 

a streak of wintergreen mint. Aged in a mix of stainless 

steel and neutral French oak, it’s an excellent seafood 

wine. —P.G. 


87 

Lange 2010 Three Hills Cuvée Chardonnay 

(Willamette Valley). This reserve-level 

Chardonnay does not outperform the winery’s regular 

bottling. Some light cinnamon spice adorns the clean, 

simple green-apple fruit. —P.G. 

abv: 13.1% Price: $30

87 

Witness Tree 2010 Estate Chardonnay 

(Willamette Valley). Forward and lightly 

toasty, this barrel-fermented Chard is a very nice summertime 

sipping wine. Apple and stone fruits combine 

in a gentle, forward, nicely balanced white wine. —P.G. 

abv: 12.9% Price: $15 

85 

A to Z 2011 Chardonnay (Oregon). Clean, 

forward, simple apple and herb flavors combine. 

This is a serviceable, all-purpose Chardonnay, that 

finishes just a bit sour. —P.G. 


85 

Amalie Robert 2010 Her Silhouette Chardonnay 

(Willamette Valley). Oregon Chardonnay 

in the low 12% alcohol range is well out of the 

ordinary, but it reflects the vintage conditions in 2010. 

This is a wine for acid lovers, with very tart green-apple 

fruit and a bit of spice. —P.G. 

abv: 12.4% Price: $22 

PINOT GRIS 

92 

Ponzi 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). 

Fragrant with floral notes, lemony fruit 

and hints of apricot, this is a tangy, textural take on Pinot 

Gris. Fermented in stainless steel and released young, it 

retains a bright and stylish profile right through a lingering 

finish, with a touch of sweetness. Editors’ Choice. 

—P.G. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $17 

91 

David Hill 2011 Estate Pinot Gris (Willamette 

Valley). Though low in alcohol even by 

David Hill standards, this excellent Pinot Gris does not 

lack fruit or flavor. Ripe and tasting of pretty pear and 

orange fruit, it shows evidence of some well-balanced 

residual sugar. Vivid acidity cuts through to a satisfying 

finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $17 

91 

Seven Hills 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). A 

glorious, grapefruity, lusciously fresh Pinot Gris, 

this new vintage from Seven Hills is made for a summer 

afternoon. This has notes of citrus and melon, with 

highlights of mint and a hint of pepper, keeping it lively 

and interesting all through the refreshing finish. Editors’ 

Choice. —P.G. 

abv: 12.3% Price: $17 

90 

Lange 2011 Reserve Pinot Gris (Willamette 

Valley). Aged in neutral French oak, 

this Pinot Gris retains a lively, palate-cleansing acidity. 

It’s consistent in style and flavor with the regular bottling, 

but this has added depth and richness. Fruit flavors 

of sweet Macintosh apples give it a pretty finish. 

—P.G. 

abv: 12.9% Price: $22 

90 

Terrapin Cellars 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette 

Valley). This light and leesy wine has 

excellent focus and refreshing minerality. Flavors of 

melon and kiwi highlight a complex but delicate wine, 

with lingering flavors and refreshing crispness. Best 

Buy. —P.G. 


88 

Coeur de Terre 2011 Pinot Gris (McMinnville). 

Tart and racy, this is a European-style, 

aromatic and elegant take on Pinot Gris. Whiffs of celery, 

apple and citrus rind lead into flavors of grapefruit 

and lychee. This is definitely a great apéritif wine to enjoy 

chilled. —P.G. 

abv: 12.6% Price: $17 

88 

King Estate 2011 Signature Pinot Gris 

(Oregon). This is a benchmark rendition of 

Pinot Gris. The flavors are fruit driven, with lime, apple 

and pear notes combining on the smooth, relatively soft 

midpalate. This is a consistent wine, even with its production 

level of 100,000 cases. —P.G. 


88 

Lange 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). 

This is a brisk, minerally, quite fresh white 

wine. The cool vintage and low alcohol sets the flavors in 

the cucumber and apple corridor. Acids are firm but not 

sour; it’s a fine white wine for summer sipping. —P.G. 

abv: 12.9% Price: $17 

87 

A to Z 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Bright, 

tangy flavors of grapefruit and pear are mixed 

with skin tannins and a hint of minerality. There’s a 

slightly herbal edge, but this wine delivers a lot of flavor 

for the modest price. Best Buy. —P.G. 


86 

Kings Ridge 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). 

This is tart and steely, with a flavor of pear skin 

rather than pear flesh, along with a green apple note 

and a whiff of grapefruit. Sharply acidic, it’s a wine that 

should pair well with spicy Asian cuisine. —P.G. 


86 

RoxyAnn 2010 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley). 

Gin-like botanical nuances in the nose introduce 

a sharp, rather stiff and hard Pinot Gris. Grapefruit 

and lemon rind flavors, along with plenty of acidity, 

seem less ripe than the 14.3% alcohol would suggest. 

—P.G. 

abv: 14.3% Price: $17 


91 

Ghost Hill Cellars 2011 Bayliss-Bower 

Vineyard Pinot Noir Blanc (Yamhill-Carlton 

District). Stainless-steel fermented and the color 

of wheat, this still white wine is stylish and compelling. 

If you’ve wondered why anyone would bother to make 

a white Pinot Noir, this is the answer. It’s fragrant with 

sweet grass and melon, then the flavors follow along 

with grapefruit and kiwi. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $25 

89 

Ponzi 2011 Arneis (Willamette Valley). 

Unique and pungent, with hints of diesel, green 

fruit and celery, this has some bite to it. Despite a green 

edge, it is precise and focused, with good grip and concentration. 

—P.G. 

abv: 12.5% Price: $25 

88 

Amalie Robert 2010 Our Muse Viognier 

(Willamette Valley). Silky, spicy and roundly 

fruity, this estate-grown Viognier brings fruit flavors of 

citrus, melon and a hint of pineapple. Nicely woven together, 

it finishes with a citrus rind edge that’s softened 

with a suggestion of cream. —P.G. 

abv: 13.3% Price: $30 

87 

Troon 2011 ’72 Vermentino (Applegate 

Valley). Troon lays claim to making the first 

Vermentino in Oregon, and it’s more than just a curiosity. 

Though tawny and heading toward early oxidation, 

the wine is drinking well, with a pretty nose of gunflint, 

apple pie and white peach aromas. The low alcohol reflects 

a wine of restraint and balance. —P.G. 


86 

Witness Tree 2010 Estate Pinot Blanc 

(Willamette Valley). Spicy, toasted coconut 

scents reflect barrel fermentation. The rather deep 

straw color suggests a wine that is maturing quickly. 

Pleasant drinking, but don’t wait. —P.G. 

abv: 12.9% Price: $15 

84 

Left Coast Cellars 2010 Left Bank Pinot 

Blanc (Willamette Valley). The first bottle 

was off, with an unpleasant mousy aroma. A second 

bottle fared a bit better, showing simple citrus and sour 

melon flavors. It finishes a bit thin. —P.G. 

abv: 13.7% Price: $18 

ROSÉ 

88 

Ghost Hill Cellars 2011 The Spirit Of 

Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This 

pretty rosé has flavors of tart salmonberry and wild 

raspberry, with plenty of citrusy acidity. Good balance 

throughout. —P.G. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

PINOT NOIR 

91 

Francis Tannahill 2009 The Hermit Pinot 

Noir (Dundee Hills). Beautifully structured, 

this very limited bottling offers complex, tightly wound, 

finely spun red fruit. The depth and detail suggest that 

further cellaring will be well rewarded. Cellar Selection. 

—P.G. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $48 

91 

Lachini Vineyards 2009 Lachini Family 

Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). 

Much in the style of the outstanding 2008, this elegant, 

Burgundian-like Pinot Noir is a finessed wine, with 

lovely details of rose petal and penetrating raspberry 

fruit. There’s a pleasing transparency, keeping it light 

without losing focus or depth, and the finely rendered 

tannins put the perfect period at the end of the sentence. 

Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $45 

91 

Rex Hill 2009 La Colina Pinot Noir 

(Dundee Hills). There is a nice lift to the aromas, 

which focus on sweet black-cherry fruit. Streaks of 

cola and brown sugar come into play in the mouth, but 

the rich fruit is the star of the show. —P.G. 

abv: 15.5% Price: $52 

91 

William Hatcher 2008 Pinot Noir (Willamette 

Valley). Full bodied and complex, this 


is a fleshy Pinot Noir with fruit flavors that run from 

mulberry to spicy plum. Streaks of Dr. Pepper and some 

black pepper add finishing highlights. —P.G. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $48 

90 

Coeur de Terre 2009 Renelle’s Block Reserve 

Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Supple and 

distinctive, this reserve-level wine offers flavors of blueberry 

and black cherry, unusual curry and east Indian 

spice, and an earthy base. It was sourced from the vineyard’s 

oldest block of estate fruit. —P.G. 

abv: 13.9% Price: $58 

90 

Ghost Hill Cellars 2010 Bayliss-Bower 

Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). 

From a lighter year, this clean, delicate wine is 

a model of elegance. Mixing strawberry and raspberry 

fruit with a touch of watermelon, it carefully blends in a 

small amount of wine aged in new oak. An enticing hint 

of mocha is the result. —P.G. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $42 

90 

Gresser Vineyard 2009 Pinot Noir (Chehalem 

Mountains). Nicely focused, with a 

core of wild strawberry and black cherry, this bears herb 

and pepper highlights common to Oregon Pinot. It has 

a nice mouthfeel and is balanced throughout. —P.G. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $24 

90 

Lachini Vineyards 2008 Cuvée Giselle Pinot 

Noir (Chehalem Mountains). At first 

taste, this is a difficult wine to evaluate because of its 

tight, compact and tannic structure. Pomegranate and 

strawberry fruits slowly emerge from a shell of earthy 

tannins, suggesting that with a few more years in the 

bottle this will evolve into a broader, more expressive 

wine. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 

abv: 13.8% Price: $65 

90 

Lange 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette 

Valley). Lange’s reserve has a resonant, 

spicy depth that elevates it above the well-made regular 

bottling. Tight and showing medium concentration, it 

shows a herb accent, with earthy tannins framing the 

tart cherry fruit. A hint of coconut marks the finish. 

—P.G. 

abv: 13.3% Price: $32 

89 

Amalie Robert 2009 Wadenswil Clone Pinot 

Noir (Willamette Valley). A smooth entry 

leads into a pleasant midpalate with pretty mixedfruit 

flavors of pomegranate, tart berry and Bing cherry. 

Light baking spices add further detail, with a streak of 

cola and sassafras to wrap it up. —P.G. 

abv: 14.2% Price: $50 

89 

Lachini Vineyards 2010 S Pinot Noir 

(Chehalem Mountains). Light as a cloud, 

this matches strawberry and raspberry fruit to a delicate 

frame of juicy acids and fine-tuned tannins. Crisp and 

ethereal, it is nonetheless thoroughly satisfying, with 

both length and complexity. —P.G. 

abv: 13.7% Price: $48 

88 

Lange 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). 

This well-made Pinot sports tart strawberry 

and raspberry fruit, focused and lightly spicy. In 

the heart of the wine are accents of sandalwood and 


toasty oak, which run through the penetrating finish. 

—P.G. 

abv: 13.2% Price: $24 

88 

Rex Hill 2009 Roserock Pinot Noir (Willamette 

Valley). The fruit carries a pleasing 

sweetness onto the herb-flavored midpalate. Then aggressive 

flavors of stem and grape skin emerge, though 

perhaps they’re too dominant. —P.G. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $52 

88 

Rex Hill 2009 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir 

(Yamhill-Carlton District). Though the listed 

alcohol tops 15%, this remains a fruity and rather 

simple wine, with dominating flavors of raspberry and 

cherry cola. As good as it is, this could use a bit more 

muscle. —P.G. 

abv: 15.1% Price: $58 

88 

Witness Tree 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette 

Valley). Clean and straightforward, 

this is textbook Oregon Pinot Noir. Streaks and nuances 

of herb, resin and earth are matched to flavors of wild 

berry. A year maturing in 20% new French oak lends 

the finish a hint of toast. —P.G. 

abv: 13.1% Price: $26 

88 

Witness Tree 2010 Vintage Select Pinot 

Noir (Willamette Valley). Though it was given 

twice as many new French oak barrels as the Estate 

bottling, this Vintage Select could be its twin. Solid and 

balanced, it mixes berry, herb and earth components, 

making for a well-structured, no-frills wine. —P.G. 

abv: 13.1% Price: $40 

87 

Gresser Vineyard 2009 Vineyard Select 

Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This is 

quite soft and pretty, a charming wine with appealing 

flavors of rose water, cherry and sandalwood. Not for 

keeping, but most enjoyable right now. —P.G. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $18 

87 

Rex Hill 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). 

The nose features pleasing scents of toasty 

barrel, but the palate turns a bit rough. Chewy, herbal 

flavors compete with tart red fruits before heading into 

a tannic, earthy finish. —P.G. 


87 

William Hatcher 2009 Pinot Noir (Willamette 

Valley). Tart red fruit is swathed in 

slightly green, tannic, earthy notes that shorten the finish. 

Give it plenty of breathing time and it fleshes out a 

bit. —P.G. 


86 

Coeur de Terre 2010 Oregon Pinot Noir 

(McMinnville). Peppery and leaning to an 

herbal set of flavors, this compensates with details of 

earth and bark, and a core of tart berry. This was a cool 

vintage in Oregon, but the winemaking is balanced and 

clean. —P.G. 

abv: 13.4% Price: $20 

86 

Left Coast Cellars 2009 Cali’s Cuvée Pinot 

Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a decent, 

midpriced Pinot, soft and round, with light strawberry 

flavors and a streak of licorice. The 18 months 

in 60% new French oak adds a note of vanilla as well. 

—P.G. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $24 

86 

Left Coast Cellars 2009 Right Bank 

Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This blend 

is comprised frion various single-vineyard plots of 

Pommard clone Pinot Noir. Ripeness is an issue here. 

There’s pepper, tomato leaf and bitter herb flavors, 

while the fruit feels thin and finishes quickly. —P.G. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $30 

86 

Pali 2010 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette 

Valley). The light and fruity flavors of 

young vines dominate here, tart and sharp in this cool 

vintage. Raspberry and light herb open into a delicate, 

short, somewhat attenuated wine. —P.G. 

abv: 13.6% Price: $50 

86 

Rex Hill 2009 Jacob-Hart Vineyard Pinot 

Noir (Chehalem Mountains). At first, the 

bright Bing cherry fruit carries suggestions of anise and 

mint, but in the mouth the wine does not deliver all that 

the nose promises. The tannins turn aggressively bitter. 

This falls short of the outstanding 2008. —P.G. 

abv: 13.7% Price: $58 

86 

Rex Hill 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette 

Valley). This has appealing scents of 

cherry fruit at first, then it quickly hits a wall and stops 

short. No amount of breathing time can make it budge. 

—P.G. 

abv: 14.5% Price: $48 

86 

Witness Tree 2010 Chainsaw Pinot Noir 

(Willamette Valley). This is the least expensive 

of the Witness Tree Pinots, and the most widely 

available. Light and pretty, with apple and rasp berry 

fruit flavors, it’s well made, though slender in feel. 

—P.G. 

abv: 13.1% Price: $20 

85 

A to Z 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). This was a 

cool, difficult vintage, and the wine reflects that 

with strong flavors of tomato juice and herb. A touch of 

tart pomegranate comes through also. —P.G. 


85 

Seven of Hearts 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette 

Valley). Quite light, but pretty, with 

delicate cherry and chocolate flavors. There is a bit of a 

hole in the middle, but it’s a decent quaff in a difficult 

vintage. —P.G. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $20 

85 

Underwood Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). 

Pungent and assertive, this budgetpriced 

Pinot mixes wild berry fruit with accents of pine 

needle and herb. —P.G. 


SYRAH 

88 

Troon 2008 Reserve Syrah (Applegate 

Valley). A whiff of leather introduces this tight, 

interesting, southern Oregon Syrah. Black fruits, iron 

filings, and smooth tannins mark a wine made from

grapes that were carefully selected (just three rows of 

vines) and given special consideration by winemaker 

Herb Quady. —P.G. 

abv: 14.1% Price: $50 

85 

RoxyAnn 2009 Syrah (Rogue Valley). Cassis 

and black cherry aromas lead into similar, but 

somewhat light fruit flavors. The mouthfeel is soft, but 

the tannins a bit green and hard. It has not really become 

integrated. —P.G. 

abv: 14.9% Price: $30 

83 

Del Rio 2010 Syrah (Rogue Valley). Scents 

of toast and coffee reflect some time in a percentage 

of new oak, but there is little else going on here. 

Where’s the fruit? —P.G. 

abv: 13.1% Price: $35 

RED BLENDS 

88 

Troon 2009 Old Vine Meritage (Applegate 

Valley). This is a tannic blend of all five Bordeaux 

grapes, with an earthy mix of cherry, herb and 

berry flavors. It’s elevated with pretty floral aromatics as 

well, and a hint of anise in the finish. —P.G. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $32 

86 

RoxyAnn 2008 Claret (Rogue Valley). 

Tannic to the point of stemmy, this hard and 

compact blend includes 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% 

Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec. Chewy 

red fruits run into a tight, tough finish. —P.G. 

abv: 14.6% Price: $26 

83 

Del Rio 2010 Claret (Rogue Valley). Ripening 

the grapes seems to have been an issue 

here in 2010, at least as far as this Claret is concerned. 

This is a thin, green, tannic follow-up to the excellent 

2009. —P.G. 

abv: 13.1% Price: $35 

TEMPRANILLO 

85 

RoxyAnn 2009 Tempranillo (Rogue Valley). 

Light and slightly spicy, this spent 15 

months in one-third new French and American oak 

barrels, yet it comes across as a bit mild and one dimensional. 

—P.G. 

abv: 14.4% Price: $30 

83 

Del Rio 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 

(Rogue Valley). Hard and herbal, this has 

sour, barely-ripe fruit and chalky tannins. —P.G. 

abv: 13.5% Price: $28 

82 

Del Rio 2010 Cabernet Franc (Rogue Valley). 

Thin, green and tannic. —P.G. 

abv: 12.3% Price: $28 


SPIRITS 

LUSCIOUS LIQUEURS & CORDIALS 

Liqueurs and cordials are a burgeoning— 

and diverse—category. The one thing 

they all have in common is a spirits base 

and added sweetener. 

But from there, the doors fling open 

wide, encompassing fruity and floral, bitter 

and herbal, rich and dessert-like, and many 

variations within each of those categories. 

Some of these, such as the fruity-herbal 

FRUIT & FLORAL 

LIQUEURS 

95 

Briottet Crème de Mure (France; Anchor 

Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). 

This light and nuanced blackberry liqueur is ideal for 

adding color and flavor to cocktails. Garnet in hue, with 

a berry-like aroma and flavor with a gentle clove note— 

this finishes well balanced between tart and sweet. 


95 

The Bitter Truth Apricot Liqueur (Germany; 

Domaine Select Wine Estates, New 

York, NY). Among the best of the fruit liqueurs, this 

delicious spirit is sippable straight up, and would be a 

lovely accompaniment to shortbread or other desserts. 

Rich scents of apples and stone fruits abound, with a 

faint spicy aroma reminiscent of Cognac. Coats the palate 

with true apricot flavor and a hint of baking spices. 


94 

Hum Botanical Spirit (USA; American 

Still Life Collection, Ashland, VA). Developed 

by Chicago bartender Adam Seger, this rumbased 

liqueur has had a speedy ascent in the past couple 

of years as a must-have for mixologists. The deep garnet 

hue is derived from macerated hibiscus. Although it has 

a warm, earthy floral-fruity base, the spice notes—ginger, 

cardamom, kaffir lime—get a little wild and take 

center stage. It can stand alone, but this liqueur is at its 

best mixed into cocktails. 


93 

Briottet Crème de Cassis (France; Anchor 

Distilling Company, San Francisco, 

CA). A deep, dark burgundy color, this black-currant 

liqueur is rich and thick, with jam-like grape and raisin 

flavors. 


93 

Dancing Pines Cherry Tart (USA; Dancing 

Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). Made 

with tart cherries and no artificial flavorings or colorings, 

this ruddy spirit blends tart and sweet cherry and 

cranberry flavors, and would be particularly outstanding 

mixed with Champagne or gin. The only missed step is 

that it’s not particularly aromatic—otherwise, this spirit 

would have scored even higher. 



digestif Killepitsch from Germany, have a 

storied history dating back to the 1800s or 

earlier. Others, such as Dancing Pines, a new 

line of liqueurs from Colorado, are shiny-new 

to the market. 

Valuable as post-prandial sippers as well as 

flavorful cocktail mixers, here are some picks 

for best in class. 

93 

Gabriel Boudier-Dijon Crème de Fraises 

(France; 21st Century Spirits, Commerce, 

CA). Heads up to bartenders fond of using jam in cocktails: 

here’s a viable alternative. Made with wild strawberries 

and black currants, this spirit boasts a nice trueberry 

flavor that’s earthy and complex, with a faint cinnamon 

note on the finish. Almost Port-like, this berry 

elixir would be outstanding paired with dark chocolate. 


93 

Mathilde Poire (France; Deutsch Family 

Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Balanced, 

light and delicate, this pale gold pear liqueur has 

a fresh, crisp aroma, melding fruit and white flowers. 

The fruit flavors are bolder on the palate, sweet but not 

overly so. While light enough to sip straight, this is also 

an appealing way to add fruity notes to cocktails made 

with white rum or gin, or mix it with sparkling wine. 


93 

Merlet Crème de Fraise des Bois (France; 

MHW/Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). 

Dessert-like and syrupy, this berry liqueur should be 

considered for pouring over ice cream or using it to 

glaze berries for a tart. Of course, with its deep cherry 

color and luscious strawberry-jam scent and bright flavor, 

it’s a pleasing spirit for sipping, too. 


93 

Senior Curacao (Curacao; Anchor Distilling 

Company, San Francisco, CA). This 

clear and bright orange liqueur features a perky candied-orange 

flavor and aroma, with brisk lemon peel on 

the finish. Light, clean and appealing for a broad range 

of cocktails. 


93 

The Bitter Truth Violette Liqueur (Germany; 

Domaine Select Wine Estates, New 

York, NY). The dense color is hypnotic: an impressively 

deep, dark, inky violet blue. Luckily, the flavor is less 

intense. Instead, it’s sweet and light bodied, with a distinctive 

violet flavor that pulls back before it becomes 

too perfumy or overpowering, with a delicate, clean finish. 

Overall, an excellent pick for floral-tinged cocktails, 

like an aviation. 


92 

—KaRa NewmaN 

Di Amore Gran Orange (Italy; Buffalo 

Trace Distillery, Frankfort, KY). With its lus- 

cious sugared-orange peel and spicy cinnamon and ginger 

notes, this lovely triple sec is a top pick for a sidecar—or 

any brandy cocktail, for that matter. The warm, 

elegant, velvety feel belies its stance at 80 proof, on the 

high end for a liqueur. Think of it as an iron fist within 

that velvet glove. Best Buy. 


92 

Echte Kroatzbeere Blackberry Liqueur 

(Germany; Niche Import Co., Cedar 

Knolls, NJ). Rich and lovely, this wild-blackberry 

liqueur is reminiscent of fresh fruit warmed in the sun. 

A concentrated, nearly opaque plum hue, the earthy, 

ripe fruit flavor builds with repeated sips. Dash a bit 

into a bubbly drink like a Kir, or serve as a dessert pairing 

with dark chocolate. 


92 

Luxardo Limoncello (Italy; Anchor Distilling 


light limoncello has a candied-lemon aroma and flavor 

and a zingy herbal note on the finish, similar to lemongrass. 

Light feel. 


91 

Bottega Limoncino (Italy; Palm Bay International, 

Port Washington, NY). For full review 

see page 10. 


91 

Mathilde Orange XO (France; Deutsch 

Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). 

Made with Cognac, this deep-gold orange liqueur is 

higher proof than most, and comes across as a little hot. 

Nevertheless, it’s delicious, with enticing honey, baking 

spice and flower notes. A pleasing note of bitter orange 

peel cuts the sweetness and refreshes the palate. This 

would be particularly delightful mixed with brown spirits 

like brandy or whiskey. 


91 

Merlet Crème de Peche (France; MHW/ 

Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). Bright 

gold, with a rich, sticky ripe-peach aroma reminiscent 

of the juice in a can of peaches. The flavors evoke Sauternes 

and honey, with a surprisingly light finish. Great 

addition to sparkling wine for a Bellini-style drink, or 

mix with white rum for a light, peachy cocktail. 


91 

Sorel Liqueur (USA; Jack from Brooklyn, 

Brooklyn, NY). For full review see page 10. 


90 

Alberti Limoncello (Italy; Niche Import, 

Cedar Knolls, NJ). Pale yellow and slightly 

cloudy, this limoncello has a mild lemon-juice scent and 

interestingly complex flavors. Although candy-sweet 

at first, the liqueur evolves into an elongated, palatecleansing 

finish with lemongrass, white pepper and a 

faint touch of anise. Would be lovely frozen into sorbet 

or poured over crushed or shaved ice. 


90 

Mathilde Framboise (France; Deutsch 


A little of this concentrated, intensely fruity liqueur will

go a long way. Almost Port-like or jam-like, this syrupy 

spirit has a deep garnet hue and a dark berry flavor, 

making it a fine choice for sweetening a dessert or cocktail. 

Even with a significant amount of dilution, the fruit 

continues to ring out. 


90 

Mathilde Peche (France; Deutsch Family 

Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). This 

pale-gold peach liqueur has a bright, sweet apple-peach 

scent and flavor, finishing with a breeze of white blossom. 

Medium bodied, fresh and sippable, this would be 

especially nice in a Bellini. 


90 

Merlet Crème de Cassis (France; MHW/ 

Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). Save this 

plush black-currant liqueur for adding bold flavor and 

color to Kir royales—it’s almost too thick for straight-up 

sipping. This deep plum-colored liquid is so viscous, it 

clings to the sides of the glass, and feels alarmingly like 

swallowing liquefied jam. Yet, it’s a remarkably true expression 

of fruit: earthy, round and balanced between 

sweet and tart flavors. Add to gin for a bramble cocktail. 


90 

Merlet Triple Citrus (France; MHW/Bedford 

& Grove, Louisville, KY). Londonbased 

mixologist Tony Conigliaro collaborated on this 

100%-natural orange liqueur, made from blood orange, 

bitter orange and lemon. It’s certainly versatile, and 

would complement a wide range of cocktails, from margaritas 

to sidecars. The clear spirit has a sweet orangepeel 

and lightly floral aroma, and a pure, clean orange 

flavor, with just a bit of warmth on the finish to balance 

out the sweetness. 

abv: $40% Price: $30 

90 

Luxardo Apricot (Italy; Anchor Distilling 

Company, San Francisco, CA). Delectable 

apricot flavor drizzled with sticky Sauternes and a dry 

finish with baking spice and black tea make this a pleasing 

choice for a dessert pairing. Sadly, this dark amber 

liqueur has barely any aroma to match the complex flavors, 

otherwise it would have scored higher. 


90 

Luxardo Cherry Liqueur (Italy; Anchor 


The deep, dark garnet hue hints at the earthy, subtle 

cherry aroma and dark-berry flavors. This is warming 

and medium bodied. 


90 

Pages Parfait Amour Crème de Violette 

(France; Anchor Distilling Company, San 

Francisco, CA). The vivid violet color telegraphs the 

aroma: floral and sweet, like violet pastilles, with a long 

finish. The violet flavor is clear and true, although it 

veers dangerously close to soapy. 


90 

Santoni Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Family 


vibrant yellow spirit has a strong lemon aroma and 

a sweet, big citrus flavor that finishes with a pleasing, 

cleansing pine note. It has a viscous feel. 


89 

Bellini Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Family 

Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Despite 

its thin, cloudy appearance and light citrus scent, this limoncello 

delivers surprisingly big lemon sweetness and 

zingy notes of ginger and lemongrass. 


89 

Merlet Crème de Framboise (France; 

MHW/Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). 

This 100% natural liqueur has a fruity, earthy, deeply 

concentrated dark-berry aroma and dark purple color 

that’s nearly opaque. On the palate, the flavors evoke 

blackberry compote and plums, and the spirit has a syrupy 

feel. 


89 

Midori (Mexico; Campari America, San 

Francisco, CA). You may be surprised to 

learn this liqueur is made in Mexico—not Japan. Still, 

most will recognize that textured bottle with the bright 

neon-green liquid inside. The fragrance is enticing, 

scented with honeydew, white flowers and fresh green 

apple. The flavor is sweet, big and melony, with a clean, 

lightly floral finish. Light bodied, perky and bright, this 

is meant for mixing. 


89 

Pages Maurin (France; Anchor Distilling 

Company, San Francisco, CA). Perhaps 

you’ve seen the dark bottle with the green devil, and 

wondered what on earth was inside. Answer: It’s a fortified 

sweet white wine spiked with cherries and quinine. 

All this makes for an enticing apéritif with a cherry-red 

hue. The flavors are subtle and earthy, alternating between 

sweet and tart, with a modest—some might say 

angelic—alcohol level. 


89 

PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur (USA; Heaven 

Hill Distilleries, Louisville, KY). Made 

with pomegranate juice, vodka and Tequila, this lightbodied, 

translucent ruby liqueur is bracingly tart, and 

reads closer to cranberry than pomegranate juice. This 

will stand up well to dilution, making it a good pick for 

cocktail mixing. 


89 

TY KU Liqueur (USA; Entertainment Fusion 

Group, New York, NY). First, you’ll 

notice the tall, pyramid-like bottle filled with pale jade 

liquid. Second, when lifting the bottle, you’ll notice it 

lights up. Third, pour and you’ll notice the fresh, soft 

melon scent. The flavor reads tart at first, fading into a 

juicy, sweet finish, with a touch of mouthwatering acidity. 

Light bodied and mixable, this is made with soju, as 

well as yuzu, honeydew and green tea. 


88 

Cedilla Liqueur (Brazil; Leblon USA, 

Manhasset, NY). New to the U.S. market, 

Cedilla is made by infusing cachaça with açai berries 

grown in the Amazon region. Intense, plummy color 

with a sweet grape-soda aroma and flavor balanced out 

by a tartness on the finish and a faint cinnamon note. 

It goes down easy straight up, but would also be good 

mixed with sparkling wine or gin—or possibly cachaça. 


88 

Cristiani Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Family 


limoncello has a light yellow, cloudy appearance, and a 

brisk lemon-lime flavor with a clean finish and a hint of 

lemon zest. 


88 

Hiram Walker Caramel Apple (USA; Pernod 

Ricard USA, Purchase, NY). Those 

with a sweet tooth will enjoy this bright golden liqueur 

as a sweetener for fall cocktails and hot drinks. Although 

the aroma delivers a finely tuned apple and caramel 

scent, caramel dominates the flavor, lingering and coating 

the palate. That said, the sweetness is well balanced. 


88 

Kinky Liqueur (USA; Crosby Lake Spirits 

Company, Saint Paul, MN). Cloudy carnation 

pink, with a juicy, grapefruit-like aroma and citrus 

flavor. Made with vodka, blood orange, mango and passion 

fruit. Although this appears to be made to mix, the 

modest alcohol level suggests this is intended as a readyto-drink 

product. This has a distinctive curvy frosted 

bottle. 


88 

Mariposa Agave Nectar Liqueur (USA; 

Heaven Hill Distilleries, Bardstown, KY). 

New to the U.S. market, Mariposa (Spanish for butterfly) 

is made with agave nectar, Tequila and vodka. It 

has a pale straw color and a honeyed agave scent with a 

light, perfumed rose note. On the palate, it reads as very 

sweet, like drinking thinned agave nectar with a splash 

of Tequila and vanilla on the finish. With good mixing 

potential, such as with lime and Tequila (or other spirits), 

Mariposa has the potential for creating fascinating 

new margarita hybrids. 


88 

Mathilde Cassis (France; Deutsch Family 

Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Dark 

purple, nearly opaque, with a wine-like scent. Warm 

and rich, this black currant spirit coats the tongue and 

palate with big, grape-berry flavors. It’s best lightened 

with bubbly, as in a Kir royale. 


88 

Merlet Crème de Poire (France: MHW/ 

Bedford & Grove, Manhasset, NY). This 

100%-natural pear liqueur has a light, ripe pear scent 

and a sweet, syrupy flavor that evokes apple, pear and 

tropical fruit. 


88 

X-Rated Fusion Liqueur (Italy; Campari 

America, San Francisco, CA). Dainty carnation 

pink, and smells like a grapefruit-flavored energy 

drink. The flavor is juicy and tart on the entry, but 

finishes rather sweet, reminiscent of grapefruit-spiked 

lemonade. Made with French vodka mixed with blood 

orange, mango and passion fruit. Although this appears 

to be made to mix, the modest alcohol level suggests this 

is intended as a ready-to-drink product. Distinctive tall 

frosted bottle. 


87 

Intrigue Pink (France; Arcadia Imports, 

Plainville, CT). Bright pale-pink colored, with 

a strong grapefruit scent. The flavor is sweet, slightly 

ersatz, with touches of grapefruit and peach. Made with 


French vodka, peach and passion fruit, and produced by 

Cognac maker Louis Royer. 


87 

Luxardo Triplum (Italy; Anchor Distilling 

Company, San Francisco, CA). This orange 

liqueur from Italy has a fleeting citrus scent but a big, 

sweet flavor, with a pronounced orange-peel note and a 

pulse of alcohol on the finish. 


86 

Gabriel Boudier-Dijon Crème de Framboises 

(France; 21st Century Spirits, 

Commerce, CA). Made with “a harmonious blend of 

Scottish and Burgundy raspberries,” this liqueur sports 

a deep, vivid dark-cherry hue and a mouth-filling cherry-berry 

preserves flavor. However, the spirit finishes 

with a subdued, earthy note, and has a lighter feel than 

expected. 


86 

Given Liqueur (France; Given Imports, 

New York, NY). Made with agave Tequila and 

lime juice, this bright buttercup-yellow liqueur has a 

sweet-tart flavor and a lingering lime note. Overall it is 

light and crisp, though it would benefit from a bolder 

burst of flavor. It appears to be meant to drink as is, but 

it would make a refreshing apéritif in a tall glass with 

soda and a fresh wedge of lime. 


85 

Gabriel Boudier Dijon Creme de Cassis 

(France; 21st Century Spirits, Commerce, 

CA). One of the earthier black currant liqueurs, melding 

dark, plush berry with an oddly vegetal, spicy note 

with hints of oregano and bell pepper. Opaque plum 

color. 


85 

Paradiso Lemon Cream (Italy; Deutsch 


Creamy yellow appearance and mild lemon scent. In 

many ways, it’s reminiscent of lemon curd: thick and 

creamy, with a sweet flavor. Light lemony finish, with an 

herbal note. Made in Tuscany. 


85 

Siegburg Apfel (Germany; Deutsch Family 

Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Look 

for a light gold color and a ripe apple scent with a hint 

of resin. On the palate, this liqueur is sweet, with a honeyed 

apple essence. Light bodied. 

abv: 21% Price: $17/1 L 

85 

The Bitter Truth SloeBerry Blue Gin (Germany; 

Domaine Select Wine Estates, 

New York, NY). A deep burgundy hue, with a fruity 

and floral scent. On the palate, the gin is tart, with a 

faint rose note and a dry, tannic feel. 


84 

Intrigue Liqueur (France; Arcadia Imports, 

Plainville, CT). Made with French 

vodka, Cognac and passion fruit, the most fun part of 

this spirit is the artificial color: its lurid lime-green color 

sure attracts attention! Look for a mild kiwi and lime 


scent and a sweet, artificial flavor similar to an energy 

drink. 


83 

Schonauer Apfel Apple Liqueur (Germany; 

Niche Import Co., Cedar Knolls, 

NJ). Light gold in color with a juicy, true apple flavor. 

This apple schnapps would have scored higher were it 

not for the sticky, plastic-like aroma. 


WHISKEY-BASED 

LIQUEURS 

92 

Southern Comfort (USA; Southern Comfort 

Company, Louisville, KY). This classic 

whiskey-based liqueur has a familiar mix of oak, caramel 

and vanilla flavors. Since it’s only moderately sweet 

(despite the candy-like aroma) and has a fair amount of 

alcohol, it’s a versatile mixer with a wide range of soft 

drinks and juices. 


91 

Irish Mist (Ireland; Campari America, San 

Francisco, CA). This dark amber liqueur 

is made with Irish whiskey, honey and spices. Expect 

warm honey and vanilla flavors, with a perky cinnamon 

note that winds into the finish. Creamy honey-like 

mouthfeel and syrupy consistency; excellent for mixing. 


91 

Wild Turkey American Honey (USA; Campari 

America, Lawrenceburg, KY). From 

the makers of Wild Turkey Bourbon, this lovely liqueur 

is honey-sweet at first sip, but it braces up with a whisper 

of alcohol. As the sweetness fades away, it leaves 

behind pretty honeysuckle and vanilla notes on the long 

finish. Enjoy this on the rocks or mixed. 

abv: 35.5% Price: $22 

90 

Southern Comfort Lime (USA; Southern 

Comfort Company, Louisville, KY). This 

amber liqueur features a fresh lime scent with a hint 

of vanilla and acidic lime flavor on the palate, finishing 

bright and clean. The tart, mouthwatering citrus flavor 

is clearly meant for mixing with cola or ginger ale. 

abv: 27.5% Price: $17 

88 

Southern Comfort Bold Black Cherry 

(USA; Southern Comfort Company, 

Louis ville, KY). A new entry to the SoCo line, explicitly 

intended for mixing with cola. Despite the pronounced 

candy-like aroma—like a cherry Charms lollipop—the 

flavor is not as sweet or cherry-like as expected. 

Instead, it’s a burst of oak and alcohol on the palate, 

which moderates when mixed. 


87 

Mickey Finn Irish Apple Flavored Whiskey 

(The Netherlands; BABCO Imports, 

Manhasset, NY). New to U.S. markets in spring/summer 

2012, this light-gold liqueur is made with a blend 

of Irish and American whiskies mixed with natural apple 

flavor. Look for a bright green-apple scent, fresh, juicy 

and tart, which is echoed on the palate, reading almost 

like tart apple juice at first. The liqueur finishes with an 

alcoholic twang, where a touch of sweetness would have 

been welcome to temper the bite. Drink well chilled. 


OTHER LIQUEURS 

96 

Dancing Pines Chai (USA; Dancing Pines 

Distillery, Loveland, CO). Tea is one of the 

hottest flavors in the mixology world now, and bartenders 

are going to fall in love with this complex, chaiinspired 

liqueur. Black-tea flavors meld with a vivid, 

spicy palette of orange peel, cinnamon and clove, with 

just a hint of sweetness and a mildly spicy finish. 


94 

Patrón XO Café Dark Cocoa (Mexico; The 

Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV). 



93 

Chocolat Royal Liqueur by Marie Brizard 

(France; Imperial Brands, Palm Beach 

Gardens, FL). From Bordeaux, this velvety-smooth 

chocolate liqueur is new to U.S. markets. It resembles 

dark-chocolate syrup in appearance, aroma, flavor and 

mouthfeel, and would be lovely in espresso-based cocktails 

or poured over ice cream. 


93 

Luxardo Amaretto (Italy; Anchor Distilling 

Company, San Francisco, CA). Look for a 

bold marzipan aroma and almond flavor with a bakingspice 

finish and velvety feel. Use for dessert cocktails. 


92 

D’Aristi Xtabentun (Mexico; Anchor Distilling 


exotic liqueur comes with a spicy story: supposedly it’s 

named for Xtabay—a disgraced Mayan prostitute—and 

the aromatic flowers that eventually sprung from her 

grave, named xtabentun. The thick, pale yellow liqueur 

is made with honey, anisette and rum, and has a warm, 

funky honey-and-spice profile. It’s currently a darling 

among the mixology set, who are using it to flavor Tequila 

and other spirits. 


92 

Fennellys Irish Cream (Ireland; Deutsch 


This light brown Irish-whiskey-based liqueur is reminiscent 

of chocolate spiked with a hint of baking spice. It 

boasts a rich and creamy feel, with enticing chocolaty 

aromatics. 


91 

Frangelico (Italy; Campari America, San 

Francisco, CA). Part of the classic liqueur 

canon, this rich, sweet hazelnut cordial is instantly 

recognizable. Whether mixed into coffee, whiskey or 

creamy cocktails, this light-gold liqueur is as addictively 

sippable as ever. 


91 

The Old Liquor Store Honey Liqueur 

(Spain; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, 

White Plains, NY). Smooth and sippable, this bright 

gold liqueur has a sweet honey scent, with notes of

vanilla and tea. Look for a very sweet, creamy honey feel 

and flavor, enriched by a touch of hazelnut. 


91 

Tuaca (USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville, 

KY). This vanilla-citrus liqueur is a good, complex 

sweetener for cocktails made with brandy, whiskey 

or other dark spirits. The amber liquid has a warm caramel 

aroma. On the palate, orange is the dominant flavor, 

warmed up with a bit of vanilla on the boozy finish. 

When the temperature sensitive bottle is chilled, the 

color of the design on the bottle changes from white 

to bright blue. 


90 

Dancing Pines Black Walnut (USA; Dancing 

Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). Complex 

and piquant, this flavored Bourbon liqueur reads 

like an amaro. The dark brown liquid has a spicy, herbaceous 

aroma and flavor, with sophisticated black pepper, 

ginger and cinnamon accents, and a touch of nutty 

espresso richness. It doesn’t really resemble walnut, but 

that doesn’t really matter. Whatever it is, it’s delectable. 


90 

Dancing Pines Brûlée Caramel (USA; 

Dancing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). 

A very pure expression of caramel, this spirit has a dark 

honey color, mild caramel aroma, and creamy, stickytoffee 

flavor. It coats the palate like drinking liquid 

milky caramel. Mix with Bourbon and other whiskies. 

It’s made with caramelized sugar cane, no other added 

flavorings. 


90 

Senior Curacao Chocolate (Curacao; 

Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White 

Plains, NY). Those who hoard chocolate oranges at 

Christmas time will love this liqueur, which melds orange-peel 

and fudge flavors in a very grown-up way. 

With a translucent reddish-brown hue, bright chocolate-almond 

aroma and brandy-like finish, this is an excellent 

mixer that can add an elusive chocolate edge to 

a cocktail or pair with dessert. 


89 

Barenjager Honey Liqueur (Germany; 

Sidney Frank Importing, New Rochelle, 

NY). Though an old-school German recipe, this thick 

honey-herbal liqueur is finding increasing use in the 

mixology world lately, often mixed with tea and dark 

spirits like Bourbon or brandy. True honey flavor, 

creamy feel. Cute beehive motif to the bottle and bottle 

cap. 


89 

Bottega Gianduia (Italy; Palm Bay International, 


see page 10. 


89 

Dancing Pines Espresso (USA; Dancing 

Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). This smallbatch 

liqueur is like drinking iced coffee mixed with 

lots of sugar. Cloudy nut-brown appearance (“Contains 

real coffee beans. Separation occurs naturally,” the label 

warns), espresso-like aroma, and sweetness on the palate 

lead into a light coffee flavor. 


89 

Pisa Liqueur (Italy; Vision Wine & Spirits, 

Secaucus, NJ). For full review see page 10. 


88 

Bottega Sambuca (Italy; Palm Bay International, 


see page 11. 


88 

Kalani Coconut Liquor (Mexico; Anchor 


This pale straw-colored liqueur features a sweet, light 

coconut fragrance and bright, lingering coconut flavor. 

Thick feel. 


88 

Stone Barn Brandyworks Red Wing 

Roast Coffee Liqueur (USA; Stone Barn 

Brandyworks, Portland, OR). For those seeking a 

true coffee experience in liqueur, here it is. From Portland, 

Oregon, one of the capitals of coffee, Stone Barn 

Brandyworks has infused their Pinot Noir brandy with 

Yemeni and El Salvadoran coffees, along with vanilla, 

cinnamon and sugar. The end result is a fresh-brewed 

coffee aroma and flavor with a bitter edge, light feel and 

dark brown color. For a liqueur, a bit more sweetness 

would have been welcome. 


87 

Café Granita Coffee Liqueur (USA; 

Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White 

Plains, NY). Bring on the white Russians! This deep 

brown, coffee-scented liqueur leans very sweet, and 

practically begs to be mixed with cream. 


87 

Poli Miele Honey Liqueur (Italy; Winebow, 

New York, NY). A curiously old-fashioned 

spirit, within an old-fashioned wine bottle with a tall, 

skinny neck topped with a swing-line cap. The yellowtinged 

liqueur is botanical and citrusy up front, with 

grappa-like heat fading into a creamy honey note. 


85 

Noyau de Poissy (France; Anchor Distilling 

Company, San Francisco, CA). The 

oldest liqueur in France, dating to 1683, this liqueur 

features almonds and apricots macerated in Cognac. 

Nearly clear and clocking in at 80 proof, the spirit reads 

almost as almond extract, with its marshmallow fragrance 

and sweet, lightly almond and floral flavor with a 

rush of heat on the finish. Consider using to add subtle 

flavor to cakes and confections. 


HERBAL LIQUEURS 

95 

Killepitsch (Germany; Vision Wine & 

Spirits, Secaucus, NJ). For full review see 

page 10. 


94 

Nardini Amaro (Italy; Winebow, New 

York, NY). Mixologists will love this deep 

brown amaro for adding complex, sophisticated flavors 

to cocktails. Bold, warm dark-chocolate notes meld with 

a minty, herbal, palate-cleansing finish, and a surprisingly 

but mellow sweetness tempers the forward bitter 

notes. Lovely and light bodied. 

abv: 31% Price: $50/1 L 

92 

Luxardo Bitter (Italy; Anchor Distilling 

Company, San Francisco, CA). The bright, 

vivid orange-red hue and Campari-like bitter scent and 

flavor make this a natural choice for Negronis, Americanos 

and the like. 


92 

Schwartzhog Kräuter Liqueur (Germany; 

The Other Wine & Spirits, Miami, FL). For 


abv: 36.7% Price: $15 

91 

Jägermeister (Germany; Sidney Frank 

Importing, New Rochelle, NY). Despite its 

overuse among college students as a get-drunk-quick 

shooter to cascade down ice luges, this is excellent 

digestif material for grown-ups too. This ruddy, herbal 

spirit is dominated by licorice and clove flavors, with 

a faint, bracingly bitter tinge in the medium-bodied 

mouth and on the finish. The college crowd got one 

thing right, though: Jäger is best icy cold. 


91 

Luxardo Amaro Abano (Italy; Anchor 


Some amaros are tongue-curlingly bitter, but that is not 

the case with this one. Instead, bitter, sweet and herbal 

flavors are in harmonious balance, entwined with lingering 

spice, espresso and sarsaparilla notes. Great for 

apéritif and digestif cocktails seeking a bitter touch. 


91 

The Bitter Truth E**X**R (France; Domaine 

Select Wine Estates, New York, 

NY). Produced by vermouth-maker Dolin in France 

for Germany’s Bitter Truth label, this nut-brown liqueur 

has a surprising bitter aroma and a mix of bitter 

and berry-sweet on the tongue, finishing with a smattering 

of ginger, cinnamon and black pepper. Although this 

would be ideal dashed into cocktails, it’s also enjoyable 

splashed into ginger ale. 


90 

Becherovka (Czech Republic; Pernod Ricard 

USA, Purchase, NY). This cheery buttercup-yellow 

spirit evolves from sweet to bitter in seconds 

flat. At first, it has a sweet, honey-like cast, then 

ginger and other herbal notes develop and, finally, it finishes 

dry, with an amaro-like bitter note. Traditionally 

consumed neat, Becherovka also stands up well to dilution 

(tonic, club soda) and makes a particularly refreshing 

apéritif chilled with a squeeze of lime. 


90 

Helbing Kummel (Germany; Niche Import 

Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). Despite the 

tall, square-shouldered green glass bottle, the spirit inside 

is clear and bright. Look for a light sweetness and 


pronounced anise and caraway flavors. Induces cravings 

for a slice of fresh rye bread. Best chilled. 

abv: 35% Price: $32/1 L 

90 

The Old Liquor Store Green Tea Liqueur 


White Plains, NY). No doubt, this is a tea liqueur. 

The amber color evokes weak black tea. The aroma is 

reminiscent of herbal tea with notes of chamomile and 

mint. The flavor is similar to sweetened chai, thanks to 

the allspice and cinnamon finish. It’s enough to warrant 

serving this liqueur in China teacups. 


89 

Goldwasser (Germany; Niche Import Co., 

Cedar Knolls, NJ). Made since the 1500s, the 

trademark of this cinnamon-flavored schnapps is the 

flakes of 22-karat gold suspended in the clear liquid. 

The flavor is very sweet, with a candied Red-Hots flavor. 

It doesn’t even feel like 40 proof. No wonder it’s so 

popular as a shooter: it goes down easy, leaving a warm 

cinnamon glow down the gullet. 


89 

Stroh Jagertee Liqueur (Austria; Niche 

Import Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). This muscular, 

somewhat medicinal amber liqueur is made from 

overproof rum mixed with black tea, herbs and spices. 

The warming orange-peel, ginger, vanilla, and allspice 

flavors would work well as a digestif, or rounding out 

a punch. 

abv: 40% Price: $33/1 L 

89 

The Bitter Truth Pimento Dram (Germany; 

Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, 

NY). This ruddy liqueur has a pronounced clove and 

allspice fragrance, and a sweet flavor with lots of peppy 

baking spice on the finish. Drying, tannic feel. Use for 

tiki drinks and other cocktails when spice is desired. 


89 

The King’s Ginger (Holland; Anchor Distilling 

Company, San Francisco, CA). 

“Specifically formulated by Berry Bros. in 1903 for King 

Edward VII,” this golden elixir has a citrusy aroma and 

a honey note that zings into a big gingery finish. A versatile 

cocktail mixer. 


88 

AGWA de Bolivia (Amsterdam; BABCO 

Imports, Manhasset, NY). Yes, this pale 

neon-green liqueur is distilled from Bolivian coca 

leaves. But sorry, thrill seekers, the “negative narcotic 

compounds” are removed before the distillate is blended 

with 36 other herbs. The end result is a faint anise 

and grassy scent, and light flavors of anise, ginger, kiwi 

fruit and lychee, with a soft lemongrass and white-pepper 

spiciness. Consider subbing for green Chartreuse 

in cocktails. 


87 

Pages Verveine de Velay Green (France; 

Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, 

CA). This intensely herbal, emerald-green liqueur 

is made with a blend of 32 botanicals, but a strong whiff 

of anise dominates the aroma and flavor. Although small 

doses may add a fresh herbal complexity to cocktails, 


caution is advised for straight-up sipping: this green 

giant weighs in at a whopping 110 proof. 


86 

Calisaya (USA; Elixir, Eugene, OR). This 

sunny gold spirit is honey-sweet, with a finish 

reminiscent of Indian spices. Consider serving as an exotic 

touch alongside a honeyed dessert like baklava. 


84 

The Old Liquor Store Ginger Liqueur 


White Plains, NY). This sweet amber liqueur has an 

aroma and flavor reminiscent of a light root beer, although 

it also has an offputting plastic-like undertone. 

Flavor fades quickly. 

abv: 24% Price: $24

BEER 

THE GOLD (OR BLONDE) STANDARD 

October is one of those funny months, 

when you can still remember what summer 

was like but suggestions of what’s 

to come in the days ahead keep you grounded 

in fall reality. The leaves start to change in the 

Northeast, and people try to enjoy the remaining 

warm days before long-sleeved shirts and 

sweaters come out of hibernation. It’s the perfect 

time to enjoy a blonde ale. 

Blonde ales are an interesting category, with 

a bit of variation between international and domestic 

selections. They are all typically crisp 

and dry, with a low to medium noble-hop presence, 

although American offerings generally 

trend toward the medium side of the spectrum 

more than traditional Belgian examples. While 

they are clean and refreshing, there tends to be 

BLONDE ALES 

91 

Brewery Bockor Omer Traditional Blond 

Ale (Belgian-style Blonde Ale; Brewery 

Bockor, Belgium). Pours a hazy golden color with 

a white head that boasts superb longevity and leaves 

beautiful lacing behind. The aromas are fresh and 

clean, with some attractive herbal accents that spice up 

the citrus, banana, yellow apple and sourdough bread 

core. The mouthfeel is dry yet full, with the brisk carbonation 

assisting in balancing out the sweet fruit flavors 

and weight of the high alcohol. Hints of clove and 

white pepper unfold on the slightly bitter finish. Artisanal 

Imports. 

abv: 8% Price: $10/750 ml 

89 

Blue Moon Vintage Blonde Ale Reserve 

Collection 2011 (American Blonde Ale; 

Blue Moon Brewing Company, CO). For full review 

see page 11. 

abv: 8.5% Price: $10/750 ml 

88 

Widmer Brothers Citra Blonde Summer 

Brew (American Blonde Ale; Widmer 

Brothers Brewing Company, OR). A clear gold 

color in the glass with an attractive and fruit-forward 

bouquet, this summer brew is an easy-drinking selection 

that’s sure to satisfy. Ripe tropical-fruit aromas mingle 

with notes of yeasty spice, sweet grass and orange 

rind. The hop flavors keep things interesting on the palate, 

imparting a pleasant bitterness to the citrus, mango 

and pineapple flavors, and which carries through to the 

clean and refreshing finish. 

abv: 4.3% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack 

86 

Metolius River Ales Yellow Sally Blonde 

Ale (American Blonde Ale; World Brews, 

NY). Light yellow in color, with a small head that dissipates 

quickly. Delicate notes of citrus, green banana and 

a perception of fruity esters and sweet malt flavors 

to give them some depth and complexity. 

Alcohol can also vary depending on the 

producer and their country of origin. Overall, 

blonde ales can be anywhere in the 4–8% abv 

range, with the traditional Belgian-style brews 

boasting higher abvs than most American 

counterparts. On the lower-alcohol end of the 

spectrum, blonde ales can even exhibit lagerlike 

characteristics thanks to their approachable 

nature and balanced, easy-drinking palate. 

If blondes aren’t your thing, we have some 

other golden-brew reviews for you to enjoy: 

American wheat beers and a stellar weizenbock 

from Weihenstephan, widely regarded as the 

world’s oldest brewery. 

Prost! —LauReN Buzzeo 

grain unfold on the nose and mouth. It’s smooth and 

approachable, with a medium-weight body and moderate 

carbonation. The finish is clean, with a slightly bitter 

edge and a light dusting of sweet spice. 


OTHER ALES 

94 

Weihenstephaner Vitus Weizenbock 

(Weizenbock; Brauerei Weihenstephan, 

Germany). Vitus, made from a resurrected recipe that 

is now being brewed year round, is a full-bodied and intensely 

flavored weizenbock that offers layer upon layer 

of aromas and flavors. A cloudy golden color in the 

glass, it starts off with an incredible head that lingers 

and leaves gorgeous lacing behind with each sip. Scents 

of banana, green tropical fruit, lemon and clove fill the 

bouquet and continue on to the palate alongside additional 

flavors of sweet spice, vanilla bean, bread dough 

and pear flesh. Balanced and harmonious, with a long 

and spicy finish. Total Beverage Solution. 

abv: 7.7% Price: $4/500 ml 

87 

Karl Strauss Windansea Wheat (Hefeweizen; 

Karl Strauss Brewing Company, 

CA). Easy-pleasing and accessible, this is a good session 

selection that goes down smooth and would pair easily 

with most foods. Typical wheat beer aromas of clove, 

pepper, banana and bready yeast appear on the nose, 

but only with medium intensity. Lemon and wheat flavors 

dominate the medium-weight mouth. The crisp 

carbonation and slightly creamy mouthfeel work together 

in harmony, resulting in a clean and refreshing 

finish. 


87 

R.J. King Wingwalker Belgian White (Witbier; 

R.J. King Wingwalker Brewing Company, 

NY). This is a straightforward yet enjoyable se- 

lection that’s quite sessionable. Light aromas and flavors 

of fresh lemon supremes, banana, yeast and sweet spice 

unfold on the nose and mouth. The mouthfeel boasts 

a somewhat creamy texture that’s lifted by vibrant and 

cleansing carbonation. Clean and brief on the finish, 

this isn’t the most complex brew but it’s balanced and 

refreshing. 


86 

Four in Hand River Card Wheat Beer 

(American Pale Wheat Ale; World Brews, 

NY). Here’s an approachable and enjoyable session beer 

that’s easy to like. It might not be the most nuanced or 

complicated sip, but it’s balanced and refreshing with 

bright notes of lemon, fresh wheat, dried grass and a 

touch of peppery spice. Medium bodied, with good carbonation 

and a slightly bitter and spicy finish. Best Buy. 


85 

Hopper Whitman Summer Brew Wheat 

Ale (American Pale Wheat Ale; World 

Brews, NY). Brisk and refreshing, this summer ale is 

uncomplicated and to the point, with clean aromas and 

flavors of lemon slices, plantain, green melon and raw 

wheat. Medium bodied, with assertive carbonation and 

a short but slightly sweet close.

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