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Untitled - The Alfred Russel Wallace Website

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40<br />

NOTES OF A BOTANIST<br />

CHAP, x<br />

leagues from Tarapoto begin to rise the abrupt<br />

ridges of Guayrapurima (" where the wind blows "),<br />

which are crossed to reach Chasuta.<br />

More to the north is a rather lower ridge whose<br />

to it the name of Cerro-<br />

top, bare of trees, gives<br />

pelado (the bald hill). Over this passes the track<br />

leading to a noted fishing stream called Tiracu,<br />

whose sources are near those of the Aguashiyacu<br />

in the high mountains N.E. of Tarapoto. From<br />

this mountain come more storms than from any<br />

other quarter. A long day of painful ascents<br />

and descents brings fishermen to Tiracu, where<br />

they sometimes remain a week, exposed to almost<br />

daily rain and barely sheltered at night in a rude<br />

rancho of palm-leaves. Some way lower down the<br />

Tiracu are cliffs of white salt. <strong>The</strong> inhabitants of<br />

Lamas make frequent visits there, and when I<br />

visit the Guayrapurima mountain I never fail to<br />

encounter one or more troops of them.<br />

[<strong>The</strong> accompanying view of Tarapoto from the<br />

southern entrance shows the straggling suburbs<br />

backed on the north-east by the grand mountain of<br />

Guayrapurima, to which Spruce made many excursions.<br />

<strong>The</strong> conical peak on the left is probably the<br />

same as that shown in another drawing (at p. 94)<br />

as the singular Cerro Pelado when seen from a<br />

different point of view, perhaps from the village of<br />

Morales.]<br />

<strong>The</strong> sound of the waters of the Shillicaio generally<br />

reaches my ears in a soft murmur, often mingled<br />

with the less musical sounds of a cane-mill on<br />

its ; opposite margin<br />

crushers the shouts of the men who ; goad along<br />

the squeaking of the cane-<br />

the poor oxen or mules in their painful round ;

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