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Untitled - The Alfred Russel Wallace Website

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FROM MANAOS TO TARAPOTO 35<br />

the steep perpendicular walls which confine these<br />

narrows, the Peruvians say very expressively that<br />

the rivers in such places are boxed in ("encajonado").<br />

<strong>The</strong> pongo of the Huallaga commences a little<br />

above Yurimaguas, and it takes two days to ascend<br />

it when the river is pretty low when it is high the<br />

pongo is impassable. Above the pongo are three<br />

of the worst malos pasos (rapids and falls) in the<br />

whole river. . . .<br />

<strong>The</strong> principal inhabitant of Tarapoto is a<br />

Spaniard (a native of Mallorca) named Don Ignacio<br />

Morey. We had known each other by name some<br />

years, and he had signified<br />

to me that if I would<br />

visit Tarapoto he would assist me as far as lay in<br />

his power. From Yurimaguas I had advised him<br />

of my approach, and he was kind enough<br />

to send a<br />

couple of mules to meet me at Juan Guerra.<br />

When you consider the amphibious life I had led<br />

for six years, during a great part of which period<br />

I had not so much as set sight on a horse, and that<br />

for several years before leaving England I had<br />

discontinued equestrian exercises, you<br />

will under-<br />

stand that I found the transition from a canoe to<br />

a horse rather abrupt. I am, however, too old a<br />

traveller to be taken aback by anything, and<br />

immediately made choice of one of the two animah<br />

sent me a large white macho, whose stride was as<br />

long as that of a racehorse, and whose caparisons<br />

were altogether strange to me, especially the large<br />

wooden stirrups,<br />

in form of a square pyramid,<br />

the whole<br />

a hole on one side for inserting the foot ;<br />

curiously sculptured. An Knglish hors<br />

have felt weary with such trappings, but he<br />

have stared in dismay at the road, though one

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