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Untitled - The Alfred Russel Wallace Website

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xv FROM MANAOS TO TARAPOTO 27<br />

the ever-varying forest-panorama the broad beaches<br />

densely clad with Arrow-reeds growing 20 or 30<br />

feet high, behind which extended beds of slender<br />

and graceful willows (Salix Humboldtiana), their<br />

yellow -green foliage relieved admixture of the broad white<br />

by the occasional<br />

leaves of Cecropia<br />

peltata (a tree of the Mulberry tribe), while beyond<br />

rose abruptly the lofty virgin forest, composed of<br />

trees of the most different types growing side by<br />

side. Add to this the noble river, the innumerable<br />

islands (fixed and floating), the cranes and herons,<br />

the never-failing alligators, the fresh-water dolphins<br />

chasing one another and turning " summersets,"<br />

besides numerous other sights and sounds which 1<br />

cannot here enumerate the whole viewed leisurely<br />

and ociosamente (" at one's ease "), free from any<br />

tormenting recurrence of mosquitoes, and you will<br />

understand that a voyage up the Amazon in a<br />

steamer has enjoyments peculiar to itself, although<br />

one's nerves may be occasionally shaken by the<br />

vessel scraping on a snag, or by the sudden assault<br />

of a violent thunderstorm. Oh that these had been.<br />

the only troubles !<br />

But<br />

as we were only about half<br />

the time under way the other half being spent in<br />

embarking firewood, a cargo of mosquitoes always<br />

coming on board, uninvited, along with the latt T<br />

(and I think the higher you ascend the Amaxon the<br />

more numerous and voracious they become) you<br />

may say that we were half the. voyage in paradise<br />

and the other half in purgatory.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Monarca is a small but strongly-built iron<br />

steamer, with low-pressure engines ! ^5 horse-<br />

as t leave<br />

power which occupy so much space<br />

little for cargo. <strong>The</strong> firewood also look up

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