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Untitled - The Alfred Russel Wallace Website

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330<br />

NOTES OF A BOTANIST<br />

river. I propose here to treat of the lower part of these two rivers,<br />

and especially of the Chira, in some detail.<br />

<strong>The</strong> configuration of the coast-region from Cape Blanco to and<br />

beyond the Piura is as follows : On the western margin rise steep<br />

cliffs to a height of from 200 to 300 feet, either directly from the<br />

sea or with an intervening beach uncovered at low-water, and<br />

usually with a low reef of rocks at about half-tide, whereon even<br />

the gentle waves of the Pacific break in a dangerous surf. Having<br />

surmounted the cliff, we are on what is called the tablazo, a<br />

plateau rising very gently to eastward, in some places slightly<br />

undulated, and in others with ridges of considerable height risingout<br />

of it, the whole so bare of vegetation that there are places<br />

where not a single tree, much less an herb, can be distinguished<br />

within the limits of vision. A bold abrupt ridge, called the Silla<br />

de Payta, rises immediately to southward of that town to a height<br />

(according to Captain Kellett) of 1300 feet; but a far more<br />

important range of hills, beginning from near the sea, a little<br />

northward of the mouth of the Chira, runs with a direction<br />

to<br />

of<br />

E.N.E. all the way up between the rivers Chira and Tumbez, till<br />

it mingles with the Andes towards the sources of the latter<br />

river. ... I suppose these hills to rise, even in their western<br />

part (which is all I have seen of them), to from 2000 to 3000<br />

feet; to eastward, as they near the Andes, they must be far<br />

higher. Viewed from the south, they appear entirely<br />

bare of<br />

vegetation, but when they come to be examined their deep<br />

ravines are found to contain a few scattered Cactuses, Algarrobos,<br />

and other trees ; and I am told that on their northern slope there<br />

is considerably more permanent vegetation, much as on the hills<br />

of Chanduy and St. Elena, which, although of far less extent,<br />

have quite the same aspect and structure.<br />

<strong>The</strong> country to southward of the river Piura is known as the<br />

Despoblado (or Desert) of Sechura : but in reality that term might<br />

be extended to the whole desert region which stretches northward<br />

to the skirts of the forests of the Gulf of Guayaquil, for the narrow<br />

strip of vegetation along the courses of the Chira and Piura are<br />

mere oases in that vast desert.<br />

<strong>The</strong> deep valley along which the Chira flows to the sea has<br />

plainly been excavated by the action of water, and if any<br />

depression have originally existed on the tablazo along<br />

the same<br />

line it must have been very slight, as there is now no appreciable<br />

sloping towards it. Its sides are steep cliffs, scarcely at all<br />

furrowed transversely on the southern side, but on the northern<br />

side in most places very much broken up into ravines and<br />

alternating peaked ridges, whose origin may be traced to the<br />

effect of the rare but torrential rains descending the rugged slopes

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