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Untitled - The Alfred Russel Wallace Website

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264 NOTES OF A BOTANIST CHAP.<br />

Pastasa in which I saw, not without surprise, a bed of the largeleaved<br />

Rumex, which is frequent in similar situations, at from<br />

8000 to 9000 feet. <strong>The</strong> Arenal consists of sand and fine gravel<br />

of a pale yellow colour. In one place the road, for a considerable<br />

distance, resembles a broad, smooth gravel-walk in England, so<br />

that the only bit of really good road in Ecuador has been made<br />

by nature's hand on the crest of the Andes. <strong>The</strong> vegetation is<br />

limited to scattered tufts, or rather hillocks, of a Valeriana, a<br />

Viola, an Achyrophorus, a Werneria, a Plantago, a Geranium, a<br />

a pretty silky-leaved Astragalus, and the elegant Sicfa<br />

is, all of which (save the Astragalus) have rigid leaves<br />

in the characteristic rosettes of super-alpine vegetation, and send<br />

enormously thick roots deep down into the loose soil, although<br />

even these do not secure them from being frequently torn up by<br />

the violent winds and storms that sweep over them. My attention<br />

wr as so much taken up with these interesting plants, and with the<br />

immense mass of snow on our right, and in tracing the downward<br />

course of ancient lava-streams, which are as visible on Chimborazo<br />

as on Cotopaxi and Tunguragua, that I scarcely felt the wind,<br />

which swept us along like a gale at sea, and occasionally lifted<br />

small fragments of gravel and hurled them at us. It is scarcely<br />

necessary to state that the wind is here always easterly through<br />

the day, getting up strong generally about 10 A.M., and rarely con-<br />

tinuing to blow with equal force through the night and following<br />

morning. Now and then it veers for a moment, and gives the<br />

traveller a side blow, which, were he not wary, might unhorse<br />

him.<br />

\Ve had left winter behind us on the eastern side of the Cordillera,<br />

and on our first day's journey, as we looked down the<br />

deep valley of the Pastasa, we saw a mantle of dense cloud and<br />

rain spread over the forest of Canelos. Even the eastern side of<br />

Sanancajas was wet and muddy, but after passing Chuquipogyo<br />

the road became nearly dry, and, on the western side of the<br />

Cordillera, it was even inconveniently dusty. In the direction of<br />

the Pacific not a cloud was visible, though the great distance and<br />

the hazy horizon prevented our actually seeing the ocean. So<br />

abrupt is the transition from the rainy season, which prevails on<br />

the eastern side of the Cordillera simultaneously with the dryseason<br />

on the western.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Arenal must be near a league across. As we descended<br />

from it the whole mountain side became covered with flowers, and<br />

nowhere have I seen alpine vegetation in such perfect state.<br />

Gcntiana ccniua, with its large pendulous red flowers, formed<br />

large patches, and was accompanied by three other species of the<br />

same genus, with purple and blue flowers, by Drabas, and other<br />

alpines. Still descending, the true alpines began to be mixed<br />

with half shrubby Fuchsia;, Calceolaria?, Eupatoria, etc. Even

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