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Untitled - The Alfred Russel Wallace Website

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CH. xix IN THE ECUADOREAN ANDES 199<br />

It is a striking sight to look over the great<br />

square at Riobamba on a market-day, and see it<br />

crowded with Indians and rustics in dresses of the<br />

gayest colours ; while<br />

the shops that surround the<br />

square have their glittering and gaudy wares hung<br />

outside, or spread out on mats on the wide pavement<br />

; and at the back, Chimborazo towers high<br />

into the sky its snow shining in the sun like<br />

polished silver and seems to touch the very<br />

houses of the town at its base, although half a day's<br />

journey away.<br />

Several snowy peaks, besides Chimborazo, are<br />

visible from Riobamba, the chief being El Altar,<br />

La Candelaria, Sangay, and Tunguragua. <strong>The</strong> last I<br />

call my mountain, because I explored its Hanks for<br />

seven months, from Barios. I made a desperate<br />

attempt to get<br />

in at the south-western side of it,<br />

from Riobamba, and devoted several days to it, but<br />

paid dearly for my presumption. My aim was to<br />

ascend by a magnificent cataract, called Guandisagua,<br />

which comes out from under<br />

Tunguragua,<br />

the snowy cope of<br />

and falls at three leaps into the warm<br />

valley of Capil, where flourish Seville oranges,<br />

alligator-pears, and sugar-cane a total height of<br />

some 8000 feet (15,700-7500). What with alter-<br />

nately wading in the cold snow-water and climbing<br />

bed for<br />

up cliffy under a hot sun, I had to keep my<br />

four days afterwards, with rheumatic pains from<br />

head to foot.<br />

... I met with agreeable society<br />

which I had not reckoned on. <strong>The</strong><br />

in Ambato<br />

Hon. Phil<br />

"White, American Minister to Ecuador, resides hen .<br />

with his wife, nine months in the year. Th< \<br />

find the climate suits them better than that of

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