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Untitled - The Alfred Russel Wallace Website

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IN THE ECUADOREAN ANDES 183<br />

lake (Myriophyllum, Lemna, and Callitriche).<br />

Guayrapata is almost as mossy as Abitagua, and<br />

much more flowery.<br />

[In a letter to his friend Mr. Teasdale, written<br />

a few days later, there are some details which are<br />

additional to those given to Mr. Bentham. After<br />

describing the journey to Banos in much the same<br />

terms, he :<br />

proceeds<br />

September 14, 1857.<br />

Banos is a poor little place of about a thousand<br />

souls ; and it takes its name from certain hot<br />

springs<br />

that well out at the foot of a cataract of<br />

very cold water, falling from an offshoot of Tungu-<br />

"<br />

ragua. <strong>The</strong> patron saint Nuestra Senora de las<br />

Aguas Santas " '<br />

-is a very miraculous saint, and<br />

"<br />

romeros" (i.e. pilgrims) come to adore at her shrine<br />

from far-away towns. In large troops they come-<br />

bathe nine days in the hot wells, assist at nine<br />

masses, rosarios, and processions, get drunk every<br />

night of the nine all in honour of the virgin and<br />

then, after these " actas de devocion," as they are<br />

called, return to their homes rejoicing, having<br />

fulfilled some previously-made promise to the saint,<br />

and feeling secure of her protection for the future.<br />

Banos is nearly 6000 feet above the sea, and<br />

nestles under Tunguragua in the gorge of the<br />

Pastasa, where the deep narrow valley widens out<br />

a little at the estuary of a small river (the Bacciin)<br />

which rushes down from the volcano. In the<br />

village we have oranges, bananas, and sugarcane,<br />

and on the hills close by barley, beans, and<br />

potatoes. Wheat is grown farther up the Andes,

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