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Untitled - The Alfred Russel Wallace Website

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TARAPOTO TO CANELOS 105<br />

impeded by swollen rivers and steeping rains.<br />

. . . Join<br />

to this a monotonous river whose flat<br />

shores rarely rose 2 feet above water, almost desti-<br />

tute of settled inhabitants (we once passed fifteen<br />

days without meeting a soul), and you will have<br />

some idea how heart-sickening such a journey must<br />

have been. From embarking on the till<br />

Huallaga<br />

entering the mouth of the Bombonasa (which is<br />

now the frontier of Ecuador), we had the usual<br />

accompaniment of cudos by night.<br />

mosquitoes by day and zan-<br />

[A few details of this portion of the voyage will<br />

now be given from the Journals and letters. At<br />

La Laguna, near the mouth of the Maranon, the<br />

travellers stayed three days in order to get fresh<br />

men and make toldos (thatched cabins) in the stern<br />

of the canoes. <strong>The</strong>y also had to collect provisions<br />

for the voyage up the Pastasa to Andoas at the<br />

mouth of the Bombonasa river, the greater part of<br />

the shores of those rivers being without inhabitants.<br />

At La Laguna Spruce witnessed a curious example<br />

of voluntary flagellation which he thus describes :-<br />

<strong>The</strong> Indians of La Laguna have a custom of scourging them-<br />

selves in the Holy Week. We were setting out a fortnight before<br />

Luster, so that there would he no opportunity of performing this<br />

at the proper time, our Indians therefore determined on<br />

going their "penitencia" on the Saturday evening,<br />

purpose whips of a most barlurous description had<br />

cylinders of pitch six inches long were stuck full of bits of<br />

broken glass, pn>je< -ting ubout half an inch. About four in the<br />

afternoon the penitents began to promenade the streets, giving<br />

themselves smart blows on the n iked shoulders with thongs<br />

thick skin of cow-fish, that the blood Mil-lit flow more fre<<br />

application of scarifies, which was done by thcmsi<br />

manner when all assembled in .1 house,<br />

they sallied forth to the church, \\ulking by tw<br />

one mass of gore and their \\hite trousers (their only<br />

soaked and dripping with blood. I h.i\e never

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