1954-5 - Rolls-Royce Owners' Club

The Hon. C. S. Rolls and Mr. H. J. Mulliner in an
early Mulliner bodied Silver Ghost. From The Autocar.
153
THE FLYING LADY
NO. 54-5
OCTOBER, 1954
JOHN W. Mc FAR LANE, Editor
Huntington Hills, Wisner Road, Rochester 9, New York, U.S.A.
Miss Mary Winkeljohn, Circulation Manager
Standard Printing Co., Celina, Ohio
THE PERIODICAL OF THE ROLLS-ROYCE OWNERS' CLUB, INC. |
ROLLS-ROYCE OF CANADA LIMITED, MONTREAL
Mr. A. G. Morrall, Manager of the Motor Car Division
writes us as follows:
"Our primary job, is of course aero engines, but it
is our intention to build a small motor car service
station, chiefly as a convenience to our Canadian dealers.
Our policy is not to encourage owners to come to
us as we feel that our dealers have a responsibility to
service and maintain the motor cars that they sell, but
we shall tool up to overhaul units sent in to us by our
dealers, and stock spares for post war motor cars.
The school of instruction will come into being late
in the Fall and will instruct on jet and diesel engines,
as well as post war motor cars."
NOMINATIONS for 1955 RROC officers and three Directors
are invited. Send yours to R. H. Goldberg,
16 Clare Terrace, Crestwood, Tuckahoe P.O., N.Y.
NEW EDITOR WANTED
The amount of time needed for each issue (about
40 hours) is more than I can spare. Perhaps there is
among our membership, or known to them, a freelance
editor in the motoring field, or a retired editor.
The club pays for this job. Applications should be addressed
to me or to President R. H. Goldberg, and will
be considered by our Board of Directors J. W. McF.
DECEMBER ISSUE will be mailed AFTER the Christmas
rush, to avoid the "baling machine" and to keep
your renewal form out of the greeting card flotsam.
Copyright 1954, Rolls-Royce Owners' Club, Inc.
Lithographed in the United States of America
NEWS FROM THE 20-GHOST CLUB, ENGLAND
On 25th July the 20-Ghost Club held a Rally of Rolls-
Royces in Kensington Gardens, London, to celebrate
the fiftieth anniversary of the meeting of Rolls and
Royce. There were nearly a hundred entries, and although
it rained hard the whole time all but about six
cars turned up. The rain made no difference to the
enthusiasm, and hundreds under umbrellas and in all
kinds of storm wear reveled in seeing this inspiring
collection of cars. The owners cheerfully opened the
bonnets to show their freshly cleaned engines in spite
of torrents of water.
Wilfred L. M. Blount took several days off from
his office to polish his Phantom II, won First Prize
for a club member's car and was presented with a
Goblet originally won by the Rolls-Royce team in the
Alpine contest of 1913. Commander H. G. W. Keller
won the first non-member's prize with his beautiful
20 saloon.
Class winners were: S.G. closed, W. F. Watson,
1911 Limousine; S.G. and P-I open, S/Ldr. K. H. Wallis,
1924 S.G. Sedanca; P-I closed, Lt. Cdr. J. D. Dymock-
Maunsell, R. N., 1926 Limousine; P-II open and closed,
Maj. W. L. M. Blount, T.D., 1934 Continental Saloon;
P-III open and closed, P. Rigden; 20 closed, Cdr. H.
G. W. Keller, 1929 Saloon; 20, 20/25, 25/30 open and
convertible, I. F. Warwick, 1933 20/25 Sedanca; 20/25,
25/30, Wraith closed, S. E. Sears, 1932 20/25 Closecoupled
Saloon; Silver Wraith, Silver Dawn open and
closed, S. H. Baylis, 1950 Silver Wraith Touring
Limousine.
Afterwards, at tea, Mrs. Sears, our club President's
wife, presented the prizes. George P. Easton
RROC Meet, Verdugo Park, California, July 3, 1954.
Left to right: Anderson -Bentley Mk VI; Lingo -Ghost
tourer; Smith -P-I Towncar; Buess, Sr. - P-I Ascot;
? - P-I Conv. Sedan; Caskey - Ghost Utility?; Fred
Buess - Ghost roadster; Rear - P-I 7 pass, touring;
Fritch - P-I tourer. Photos by Bill Castle

154
September Si, 1929 ANNOUNCEMENT OF ORIGINAL PHANTOM II TheMotor
ROLLS-ROYCE ADOPT
HOTCHKISS-TYPE DRIVE
Famous 40-50 h.p. New Phantom Chassis Undergoes Considerable
Modification for 1930—To Be Known as "Phantom II."
OLLS-ROYCE, LTD., so seldom
R change their models that it is quite
a notable event when a new or modified
Rolls-Royce chassis is announced. The
last important change of this character
occurred in May, 1025, when the 40-50
h.p. New Phantom chassis was brought
out as representing the post-war experiments
of Mr. F. H. Royce and his staff.
We were then told that in the course
of their researches they had tested overhead
camshaft engines, 12-cylinder
engines and " straight eights," but had
finally reverted to the six-cylinder type
with push-rod-operated overhead valves.
This New Phantom chassis has remained
practically unaltered since that
time, but for detail modifications embodied
year by year, and has worthily
upheld the great Rolls-Royce tradition
of superlative workmanship, high performance,
dependability and extremely
silent running. Experimental work has,
however, been continuing throughout the
intervening period, so that now, in readiness
for the 1930 season, a modified type
of New Phantom chassis has been put
into production which embodies so many
changes as to be almost a new ear.
The New Transmission System.
The most important change is found
in the transmission system, because
after having for years employed an independently
mounted gearbox for the
40-50 h.p. model, together with a propeller
shaft enclosed in a torque tube,
Rolls-Royce, Ltd., have now gone over
to the practice of building the gearbox
in unit with the engine and clutch and
using what is known as the Hotchkiss
drive. Thus, the new chassis, termed
" Phantom II," is provided with an
open propeller shaft, the back axle
torque and drive being taken through
long, semi-elliptic rear springs; cantilever
springs were formerly used. The
new springs, which are underslung, are
each secured to the rear axle casing by
an extremely strong four-bolt anchorage
and are used in conjunction with the
special hydraulic type of shock absorber
which were evolved by Mr. Royce some
time ago and have been fitted to New
Phantom chassis for a year or more.
Certain alterations to the frame have,
of course, been found necessary in view
of these transmission changes, the most
important being a new cross bracing
member amidships which is of tubular
section and is additionally strengthened
at the ends by a pair of triangular pressings.
At the same time a separate subframe
has been evolved upon which the
body is carried free from distortion.
Semi-elliptic springs with hydraulic
shock absorbers are used at the front
end, as before, the latter being coupled
The engine-driven vacuum pump now
fitted to operate the Autovac tank.
The new Rolls-Royce "Phan
torn II," fitted with the latest
Thrupp and Maberly coachwork,
a limousine de ville,
which is to be exhibited at the
Paris Salon next week. Note
the deeper radiator adopted
for 1930.
to the axle by special triangulated links
which give the axle great stability
against the torque imposed by front
wheel brakes.
Apart from the alterations made necessary
by its new location the gearbox
has also been redesigned in many respects
and the frictioual servo motor
employed to control the four-wheel
brakes is now placed at the near side
instead of the off side. At the ends of
the rear axle, incidentally, the handcontrolled
shoes are now mounted sideby-side
with those operated through the
pedal and servo motor, whereas formerly
they worked within them.
We can now turn to the engine, which
has been modified quite considerably,
although the bore and stroke remain the
same as heretofore—108 mm. and
Io9.5 mm. respectively—giving a cubic
capacity of 7,668 c.c. The cylinders,
which are cast in two blocks of three
as before, are now fitted with a single
head, of aluminium, which contains the
six combustion chambers and the valves.
Insulated Engine Supports.
The power unit is now carried by
four projecting arms secured to rectangular
plates. Each plate is in turn
bolted to the side-member of the frame
(fitting within the channel) but between
the two is interposed a pad of resilient
material so insulating the engine from
the rest of the chassis. In this, as in
certain other respects, " Phantom II "
follows the design of the 20 h.p. Rolls-
Royce chassis.
The other changes in the engine
mainly consist of a re-arrangement of
the auxiliaries. The induction pipe,
for example, has been shifted from the
near side to the off side of the block and
is of new design, feeding the cylinders

155
TheMotor September 24, 1929.
ROLLS-ROYCE ADOPT HOTCHKISS-TYPE DRIVE-Contd.
The re-designed rear axle, new underslung semi-elliptic rear springing (taking
torque and drive), the hydraulic shock absorber and new brake gear.
from a water-heated vertical
branch to which the carburetter
is bolted. The exhaust manifold
remains on the near side, but
has been re-designed, the three
branches now discharging into
a central pipe which leads the
gases into a small expansion
box from which they pass to a
silencer covered with a metal
and asbestos shield.
The tandem-driven dynamo
and magneto, formerly on the off
side, are now on the near side of the
engine, driven from the front-end timing
gear, but the coil-ignition distributor
and contact-breaker unit is still in its
previous position, driven by a vertical
spindle and controlled, as regards timing,
both by hand and by an automatic
system which operates also upon the
magneto in synchronism.
Valve-gear Modifications.
In the re-designed cylinder blocks provision
is made such that the sparking
plugs, of which there are two per cylinder,
project horizontally in positions
which are much more accessible than
was previously the case. Another modification
is found in the overhead valve
rocker gear where an eccentric adjustment
for each rocker has been replaced
by square-ended adjusting screw operating
upon the ball through which the
push rod operates the rocker. The
starter motor is now placed low down
on the near side of the crankcase and is
operated through a sequence switch to
give quiet engagement.
Engine-driven Vacuum Pump.
An important innovation consists of
the use of an engine-driven vacuum
pump to operate the Autovac tank on
the dash, there being no connection
between this tank and the inlet manifold.
This ensures a smooth and continuous
suction irrespective of engine
conditions.
Maintenance work has been greatly
The new overhead-valve gear, showing
the clearance adjusters which now
screw into the rockers.
reduced by the adoption of a centralized
chassis lubrication system. There is a
tank for containing oil on the dash, and
when a small lever is operated the lubricant
is delivered through strong brass
tubing and a series of special regulating
valves to all the bearings on the chassis
proper, the exceptions being those on the
axles and on the universal joints of the
propeller shaft. The axles are omitted
from the general scheme in order to
avoid using flexible tubing, but on each
axle there is a single oil-gun connection
from which piping is taken to all the
bearings and to the spring leaves.
New Instrument Panel.
A new and neat instrument panel ha3
been standardized embodying a speedometer,
clock, ammeter, oil pressure
gauge and thermometer, the driver being
provided, as heretofore, with a hand
control for the radiator shutters. Also
on the facia board there is a Hobson
K.S. Telegage, showing the quantity of
fuel in the rear tank, with a little handpump
to clear the air line should this
be necessary. The steering column has
been given more rake and the wheel and
the hand controls have been altered
slightly to a more elegant design, the
wheel being at the same time increased
in size. Certain changes have been
made which improve the steering lock
to a marked extent. Finally, there is
the radiator to mention, which, while
still of the characteristic Rolls-Royce
shape, is now deeper than before, so
that it extends downwards between the
side-members of the frame and gives
the car a lower appearance viewed from
the front.
Needless to say, the new chassis
exhibits all that excellence of workmanship
which one naturally associates with
Rolls-Royce productions. The announcement
of "Phantom II" comes at a most
opportune time when the world has been
ringing with the achievements of Rolls-
Royce acro engines in the Schneider
contest.
A near-side view of th re-designed engine showing the tandem-driven dynamo
and magneto and the new exhaust system.

156
ADJUSTMENT AND CARE OF SILVER GHOST CHASSIS
Part 1 by Webster Woodman see
As stated with reference to lubrication, p. 92, time
and mileage intervals for adjustment purposes have
less value in these days when the Silver Ghost is not
in daily use. But for reasons of stressing the need for
more frequent attention to certain parts, and less to
others, we attempt herein to preserve those divisions,
and feel confident that the owner's judgment will govern
his use of the information supplied. For example, when
one acquires a "new" car, he will want to check most
minor adjustments, allowing major ones to be dictated
by performance. At the same time, there is no reason
to check side play in road wheels weekly, as advised
in the 1914 and earlier manuals.
I. WEEKLY Oil EVERY 500 MILES
a. Remove distributor cover of magneto and wipe
away carbon dust with clean, dry rag.
b. Clean cortacts and rotor of battery ignition distributor.
(This cirection applies to models with single
distributor.) Pull off terminals and remove cover and
the ring with six plunger caps around the outside. The
1911 manual shows six carbon brushes rubbing on the
rotor and ment.ons that carbon dust or moisture on
the distributor will cause pre-ignition. Later manuals
show a gap bet ween the plunger points and the rotor.
The 1913 and later manuals call for adjustment of
gap between plunger points and rotor. Upon reassembling,
unscrew the vulcanite caps which cover plunger
points and insert .004 feeler gauge between each point
and the rotor, pressing plunger into contact with the
gauge. The engine will have to be turned over, with
crank, to bring rotor opposite each plunger.
c. Jack up aid check road wheels for side play;
tighten with wheel wrench if necessary. While rear
wheels are on jack, operation h. may be carried out.
d. Remove air valve (on top of carburetor) carefully
to prevent bending of brass disc at its lower end.
Clean. Likewise remove and clean throttle valve (at
front). This is especially important because of "varnish"
deposited by present day leaded gasolines. The
2 pin joints in the throttle linkage are easily disassembled
for this, purpose. On 1913 and earlier cars,
3 nuts holding throttle cover (at front of carburetor)
must be removed to get throttle valve out. While it is
out, wipe throttle barrel with rag. In no part of this
operation should metal polish be used, lacquer thinner
may be helpful tc dissolve "gum" or "varnish."
e. Inspect level of acid in battery, keeping it to 3/8
inch above plates. Distilled water is recommended
(can be bought at drug stores), though battery service
men are not particular about this. Some local water
supplies may be chemically safe for battery use.
f. Check fan and generator belts for tightness.
Tighten if necessary. Fan: if adjustment in eccentric
on fan mounting fully used, remove a link. These are
made up of leather halves, held around metal couplings
with a single wood screw per link. A small screw driver
will suffice for the operation. Generator: On those
mounted under front seat (later ones mounted on engine),
belt is tightened by drawing up nut located under
driver's door, on bolt through chassis. This operation
draws generator toward frame, tightening belt running
to transmission housing. Under the nut is a spring
which should not be fully compressed; when this stage
reached, remove link from belt.
g. Remove anc clean relief valve of air pump (petrol
feed); lubricate with engine oil. In early models, this
is found under front floor boards, near left side of frame
and ahead of cross member (trace tubing from pump).
Later models do not appear to have one.
h. Jack up rear wheels, one at a time, and inject
paraffin into side brake mechanism, by inserting nozzle
of syringe between brake drum and cover; then spin
wheel so as to clean it out. (Paraffin, in this instance,
means "kerosene." This operation does not appear in
manuals after 1913, and, we presume, was meant for
road conditions of that period and earlier, when great
quantities of dust and grit might hamper the workings
of the brakes.)
i. Check the pressure in all tires including spares.
If in doubt about proper pressure, ask the tire maker,
stating the weight of the car.
II. MONTHLY OR EVERY 2000 MILES
a. Check battery charge; clean corrosion from
terminals and grease; clean box.
b. Remove and clean spark plugs; adjust to proper
gaps and replace. 1914 and earlier books: .020 for
magneto, .030 for distributor. Later information: .025
for magneto. On two distributor models, all gaps should
be .030. Early manuals suggest magneto-wired plugs
be installed over exhaust valves, and distributor-wired
plugs over intake valves. Mr. Taylor of Inskip's advises:
''On some of the earlier models they had a
valve cap drilled to fit a plug and this was placed over
the exhaust valve and the cap over the intake valve
was blank or dummy with the position of the plug
drilled in the cylinder block directly above the piston.
With the plugs in this position, you only get fair running
on the magneto plug which was over the exhaust
valve. So on later cars, both valve caps were drilled
and the magneto plug was placed over the intake valve.
This greatly improved both running and idling."
c. Check ball joints on both side and cross steering
tubes. These should be tight enough so that both hands
are required to rotate tubes on joints. To adjust, remove
leather covers, back off lock nut, and turn adjusting
nut until fairly tight; then back off 1/8 turn and draw
up lock nut, being careful not to disturb adjustment.
Recover with leather boot, and lubricate with gear oil.
(Laterbooks list this operation under "Half-Yearly".)
d. Brake adjustments: DO NOT SHORTEN PULL
RODS OR CABLES ON ANY CHASSIS. In 1907, the
foot brake was described as the "external clip type,
having metal to metal surfaces." It is situated at the
end of the gear box and acts through the differential
gear. The levers carrying the brakeblocks are drawn
together by a lever on a floating fulcrum. The thumb
nut on the adjustment rod (at bottom) can be drawn up
without the use of tools. Hand brakes were internalexpanding,
double acting, also metal to metal, inside
drum which is part of rear wheel. These are called
"rear brakes" or ''side brakes" in various manuals.
The 1911 manual shows the adjustment on rear
brakes low and close to drum on each side. Withdraw
spring locking bolt and screw up star nut until there
is 1 1 /8-inch movement on the lower end of the curved
lever from "off" to "on" position. The 1913 book
shows the foot brake adjustment as being a"star nut,"
to be turned up by hand, while holding locking device
raised against spring. This adjustment is found on
lower brake shoe on left side of chassis. The brake
should be' 'on" when pedal is 1/2 stroke down. If lower
shoe rubs when brake "off," top shoe must be brought
nearer by screwing down set screw on top of top shoe
(in bracket fixed to frame cross member). Screw down
until top shoe clears drum by 1 /64 of an inch; then hold
the adjustment on the screw by use of the lock nut.
The "rear" or hand brake adjustment appears to
be the same as noted for later chassis where both
brakes acton rear wheels, (see below). In some cases,
instead of a groove being cut across the serrated discs,
the numbers 0, 1, 2, 3 are stamped on the edge of each
disc to show how far lever has been moved. On later
chassis, an adjusting hand wheel for foot brakes is located
on the right side (left and inside tool box on late
Springfield models) of chassis: this is used to take up
wear from 10,000 to 15,000 miles of ordinary driving.
If foot pedal travels more than 1 1/2 to 2 inches to
apply brakes, push wheel inwards, to free locking device,
and turn clockwise to take up wear. When this
adjustment is at an end, the wheel will no longer turn
to the right. At such time, hand wheel should then be
turned back all the way to the left, and further adjustment
made at the rear wheels. Here both hand and foot
brakes are similarly adjusted, the foot brake shaft
being the one lower, further forward, and closer to
outside of wheel drum.
Parts should be thoroughly cleaned with kerosene
or other solvent to remove dirt and grease. Slide back
locking piece D (see above), which has an L slot which
engages with a pin on the shaft to hold it clear. This
will render the adjoining nut E free to be unscrewed,
and hence release actuating lever F (and its serrated
portion) from its companion, serrated disc G. The
original setting of lever F relative to discG is marked
by a groove across the edge of both (or the numbers
as above noted). Turn shaft, with its disc G, one tooth
(or serration) forward in relation to serrations on
lever F. This can be done by gripping the shaft by hand
or applying a monkey wrench on the locking piece D.
Then tighten nut E firmly by hand to hold lever in place
against the disc G, and release locking piece D, making
sure that its teeth engage properly with the teeth on E.
The levers on either side of the car must be adjusted
equally. After this adjustment, the handwheel should
be used until it becomes necessary to take up another
tooth on the shaft-disc assembly. In no case should
these adjustments on brake shafts be made to more
than the three notches from the original setting, at
which point new linings are indicated. (Earlier books
obtain the same result by directing that the lever F
be turned one notch backward in relation to disc G.)
NOTE: Information on late chassis fitted with
4-wheel brakes will be treated separately.
e. On chassis fitted with coil trembler, they should
be cleaned and examined, but if there is anything wrong
with the running of the engine, they should not be touched
until you are sure that everything else in the ignition
system is right. In any event, do not dismantle until
you have opened it with your fingers and have seen that
the points are really in bad contact or out of adjustment.
The coil should give a spark 5/16 to 3/8 inch
long with engine stationary, and the trembler should
not be touched unless coil fails to do this.
The length of the spark can be determined as follows:
Insert a split pin (cotter key) in the terminal end of
the center H.T. wire (the one which connects to the
center of the H.T. distributor cover), turn the engine
until contact is made in the distributor, and bring the
center wire with pin inserted to within the necessary
distance from the cylinder walls to obtain a spark.
If one of the platinum points is deeply pitted, and
the other point has assumed the shape of a cone to fit
into the pit, both points should be filed with a very fine
file until they are flat. In order to adjust a trembler,
follow carefully printed instructions inside the lid of
the coil box. These require that battery- current be
switched on, and thescrew turned backward until points
are well apart; then screw downward slowly until the
coil will just buzz; then give screw a further 1/4 turn,
which will insure good contact and the correct amount
of play for the iron armature, viz., 1/100 inch.
f. Check to see that clutch pedal arm clears floorboard.
Adjust at short arm from fork to ball joint
(over clutch trunnion bearing).
g. (From early manuals only) Remove fan belt and
scrape with dull knife; smear back--not sides--with
engine oil and replace, removing excess oil. If dynamo
(generator) is fitted, same treatment for its belt.

CLICKING PI VALVES
by John Stanley
Overhead valves are difficult to keep quiet because
the operating mechanism is long, and subject to change
of dimensions with change of temperature. The following
has resulted in good results.
There are three conditions which may arise: (a)
valves are quiet, but they burn (too little clearance, or
use of high test fuel), (b) valves are quiet when cold,
always noisy when hot (clearance too great, and this
may be due to condition (c) as below), (c) wear of valve
stems or rockers.
Scoop m
RocKei-,
I deal with (c) first, as it is very common. Remove
the rocker assembly, and see if the tips of the rockers
are "scooped" as shown in exaggerated form in Figure
1, a view across the engine. On checking clearance,
the depth of the scoop will be added, giving too great
a clearance. Stone the tips smooth, and polish with
rouge and oil smeared on a stick. The valves usually
rotate slowly in use, but some may not, and the tip of
the stem may become slightly grooved, as in Figure 2.
If so, stone off smooth and exactly square, and polish.
To set the valves, as a complete job, adjust the
tappets to get the clearance .003 with cold engine, and
with the adjustment cam so set that the steplike projection
on top is 1/2 inch from the side of the adjustment
screw-head. Warm engine to 180° by running
around, not by a quick warm-up, and adjust to .006 for
iron-head, .010 for aluminum head. If there is any
wear in the rocker shaft assembly, loosening to do
one valve will permit slight bending of the shaft, and
disturb the setting. You will usually find setting about
.001 tighter after tightening down the rocker assembly.
Therefore, go over it completely several times to see
that each valve is at .006. In doing this, do it with the
adjacent valves both closed and slightly open, as much
as possible, to allow for pressure of adjacent valves.
British Silver Ghost AD 74 Windover Tourer, owned
by R. A. Wimbush at the Springfield Meet. This late
Ghost has original four-wheel brakes.
157
Condition (c) has a characteristic symptom, in that
a valve will click sometimes, and not others, probably
due to rotation of the valve. Note that the general tendency
is for the valve clearance to decrease due to
cupping of the valve head, and stretching of the stem.
Therefore, check the clearance every 5000 miles,
particularly if a new valve has been put in.
One can check for burned valves by dropping a
small light into one spark- plug hole, and looking through
the other with a dental mirror. Have the valve open,
and rotate by twisting the stem with a toggle wrench.
Wrap lead around the stem to protect it. A burned
valve also shows as decreased or zero compression,
and gives a "misfire" effect on acceleration at low
speed. It makes the engine vibrate badly. Once a valve
is burned, it gets rapidly worse, but the seats, being
cool, are almost never damaged. Be sure to put valve
springs back big end down. The difference is small,
but important. (Applies to iron-head P-I.)
A badly burned exhaust valve--not enough clearance.
Clicking may also come from worn valve lifters,
which operate the push rods. If the lifter has been
starved for oil (none coming down the push rod), the
guide wears so the plunger moves sideways when the
cam strikes it.
Before closing up, see that a thick film of oil runs
down each push-rod when idling fast enough to give
25 lb. oil pressure. Touch it with the finger to check.
If no oil, clean out rocker assembly. See p. 142.
Sidney A. Redrupand friend, with 1920 British Silver
Ghost, 92 CW. The body adaptation was done entirely by
Mr. Redrup. Hughenden Castle, Bulawayo, S. Rhodesia.

CELEBRATION OF "ROLLS MEETS ROYCE."
Pilgrimage from Sir Henry Royce's cottage at Knutsford
to his factory in Manchester.
In the yard of the Royal George Hotel, Knutsford,
just before the start, 1905 two-cylinder car on the left,
TT replica, Silver Ghost, and Watson's Limousine.
1905 10 h.p. two-cylinder car at Brae Cottage,
Royce's house at Knutsford, May 19, 1954.
Engine of second Royce car displayed at Cook St.,
May 19, 1954. Behind engine: Fred Bates, Raymond
Baxter, T. S. Haldenby, A. G. Elliott, H. I. F. Everndon,
R. N. Dorey, R. F. Messervy. Photos fromR.R. Ltd.
Supplementary List of 20/25 HP Chassis Changes
(See p. 139 for previous list)
GLR55 RW-1 Magneto
GBT22 Staybrite radiator shell and shutters
GKT22 Crankshaft vibration damper changed to low
inertia spring drive from slipper drive.
Crankpin diameter increased to 1.999"
GAU1 18 gallon petrol tank (formerly 14 gallon).
Electric petrol gauge instead of hydrastatic.
Modified 3rd motion shaft--GAU76
GLZ28 Nitralloy crankshaft instead of nickel chromium
steel
GXB27 Crankshaft journal diameter increased to
2.2495"
GAF1 Drilled connecting rod instead of external oil
pipe
Comments by Michael H. Vivian, 20-Ghost Club
Earlier 20/25's had:
1) Only one "gas strainer," not a double one (up to
GFT).
2) No reserve supply fitted (up to GFT).
3) Radiator drain tap by water pump, not at bottom of
radiator as with later models.
4) KS fuel gauges (hydrostatic type), not electric (up
to GAU).
5) Radiator temperature warning light retained until
introduction of thermostatic shutters (up to GBT22).
6) Nickel silver radiator shell, not Staybrite (up to
GBT22).
COMMENTS ON 20/25 H.P. CHANGES
It is interesting to note how, in the development of
the 20/25 hp chassis, Rolls-Royce, Ltd. was aiming for
higher power output and improved performance, but
not at the expense of durability. Increases in compression
were accompanied by increases in bearing
diameters and in the hardness of crankshaft metal.
This raises a question on attempting to improve
performance of a Rolls-Royce car by raising its compression
ratio. This may sacrifice durability of the
"lower end," judging by the factory's changes on the
20/25. R. H. Goldberg
20-GHOST CLUB GOLDEN JUBILEE BOOKLET
Like the 20-Ghost Club booklet given out at the
Springfield Meet, this is a well executed little book of
30 pages. It contains 19 line drawings of famous models
by George L. Frost, some interesting ads, and the following
articles: Foreward by S. E. Sears; Looking
Back (early R-R history) by F. R.B.King; The 20-Ghost
Club by A. J. Belsey; You too, can be an Owner. . .by
W. R. Matthews; Impressions of a 1913 Rolls-Royce
by M. H. Vivian; Some Rolls-Royce Successes, 1904-
1914; and a general list of Rolls-Royce chassis from
1904 to 1954. This booklet is well worthy of a place in
any Rolls-Royce collection of literature. It is available
postpaid for $1. from G. P. Easton, Admiralty Signal
and Radar Establishment, Portsdown, Hants,. England.
Remittance may be made by dollar bill or International
Coupon, obtainable from any U. S. Post Office.

159
RESETTING TIMING OF 20 H.P. BATTERY IGNITION
by A.G. Taylor and F.N. Howard
If the timing of the battery ignition should have
been deranged due, for instance, to the removal of the
cam which operates the distributor rotor, it can be
reset by reference to the flywheel markings which can
be seen upon removal of the clutch pit cover.
First, to get your bearings, crank the engine by use
of the handcrank until you see the mark TDC (top dead
center), under which there sometimes appears the
numerals 1 & 6. At this point, number 1 or number 6
piston is ati the start of its firing stroke. A little further
rotation of the flywheel will reveal the mark EC (exhaust
closes^, and slightly beyond that either BLI
(battery late ignition) or merely LI (late ignition) over
the numeral 10 (10° after TDC). Still further rotation
shows the mark BDC (bottom dead center) on flywheel.
Now, having observed all of the flywheel markings,
crank by hand until BLI (or LI/10) again appears near
the pointer. Continue to crank very slowly until this
mark lines up with the pointer. Then, with the ignition
timing lever on the steering column fully retarded,
and with the rotor pointing towards the No. 1 cylinder
terminal on the distributor, set the cam so that the
contact points are just beginning to break. To determine
precisely when the break takes place, turn on
the ignition switch, and with someone watching the
ammeter, slowly rotate the cam on the taper of its
shaft (with the rotor in place) in a counter-clockwise
direction until the contact points open, which will return
the ammeter needle to zero position. Then gently
remove the rotor and tighten the screw which secures
the cam.
To check if the setting is correct, turn the engine
over a few times and, with the rotor pointing to No. 1
cylinder and the ignition switch in the on position,
raise the hand ignition timing lever until the ammeter
shows that the points have opened. This should occur
when the lever is raised about 4 notches from the
bottom, provided there is no linkage looseness.
CORRECTION--OIL FOR 20 H.P. DIFFERENTIAL
SAE 60 sounds to me to be very light for this purpose
and I should be afraid of its getting past the felt
oil seals and finding its way into the rear brake drums.
In England SAE 90 is generally used (and recommended
by R-R--Ed.) in 20 h.p. gearboxes and differentials
and with the "Enots" grease-gun. I personally
use grease in my prop-shaft universal joints,
but grease must not be used unless the car is in regular
use. "Enots" grease guns and nipples are made by
Benton & Stone, Ltd., Birmingham, England.
In my opinion, these universal joints are amongst
the most important points not to neglect. If regularly
lubricated (500 miles in the Instruction Book) they will
last for 150,000. If neglected, the repairs are apt to
be expensive. J. E. Castle, Capt.
Don't (repeat, DON'T) wash cloth tops with synthetic
detergents. They look nice, but they leak like a sieve
afterwards. J.S.
Distributor drive of 20 H.P. GPK 17, assembled and
disassembled. If the ball bearing is worn timing and
motor performance are erratic. This bearing was replaced
with a Hoover #200. Photos by F. N. Howard.
A neon timing light may also be used to confirm
that the setting is correct. If this method is used,
mark a very thin line with white paint at the BLI (or
LI/10) point on the flywheel and proceed in the usual
manner. The reading should be made with the engine
at idling speed. Then speed up the engine to check the
action of the centrifugal timing advance mechanism.
Incidentally, if a neon timing light is used to confirm
that the setting is correct, by first connecting it
to No. 1 terminal and checking, and then connecting it
to No. 6 terminal, it will show if the distributor cam
is in good condition. Both readings should be the same.
If not, either the cam or its bearing are worn and
should be replaced.
We would like to emphasize that these directions
DO NOT also apply to ALL 20/25 HP models, nor do
they necessarily apply to other models. They apply
primarily to the 20 HP model.
Directions for timing the magneto ignition will appear
in another article. We are also working on a similar
article covering the 20/25 HP model. Directions on
that model are quite different because of the friction
damped spring drive.
20/25 H.P. 1930 GDP 81 tourer by Carbodies Ltd.
Coventry, owned by Michael H. Vivian. As far as he
knows, there are only 5 other 20/25 tourers in England,
unsuitable climate! Was awarded a 1st class prize in
the 20-Ghost Club's rally last year.

ROLLS-ROYCE BAZAAR
FOR SALE
VERY HANDSOME short-coupled 1924 Ghost, convertible
sedan. Said to be in grand shape in every
respect, good rubber. Has been owned by present owner
for many years. Owner asking $2500but would probably
take some less. Contact Mr. Emil Wanatka, Little
Bohemia Lodge, Manitowish, Wisconsin.
SILVER GHOSTS 1921 town car 99CW and 1913 chassis
9NA available at antique shop in vicinity. Contact Com.
J. K. Leydon, Lahaska, Bucks County, Pa. for details.
SILVER GHOST 1923, S. 442 H.H. Special Sedan Body
by Brewster. 20 H.P. G.N.K. 81, 1925 Brewster Sedan.
Both cars in very good condition. Pictures and price on
request. Stewart Cook, 50 Hudson Ave., Red Bank, N.J.
PHANTOM I 1928 Brewster Sport Sedan S 268 FP. In
excellent condition. $750. William M. Markley, 105
Cornell Ave., Rutledge, Pa.
PHANTOM II 1934, 211 AMS, Eng. U15J Brewster Town
Car. Front section converts. Four excellent Vogue
tires. Condition immaculate, needs tuning. $1450. Fred
Leffler, 875 East Ave., Rochester 7, N.Y.
PHANTOM II '31 191 GY Original Barker Body converted
to station-wagon within last decade. Needs
muffler, but fair to good otherwise and running with
good rubber and spares. $550. Picture upon request.
Wm. Frank, Jr., 437 - 53rd Street, West New York, N.J.
WRAITH LIMOUSINE, 193S, Chassis No. WEC 44.
Photo in June Flying Lady, page 143. Excellent condition
throughout. 24,000 original miles. C.N.Melhinch, c/o
E. M. McCracken, 110 Evergreen Ave., Pitman, N.J.
Asking $2895.00.
WRAITH 1940, WHC 62 seven passenger Park Ward.
Mint condition. 34,000 total miles. $2950. Com. J. K.
Leydon, USN, Lahaska, Bucks County, Pa.
DUNLOP TIRES
"Of Quality"
For All Sizes
Write - or - Phone
Dunlop Tire & Rubber Corp.
River Road & Sheridan Drive
Buffalo 7, New York
Telephone: Victoria 2-200
LARGE ASSORTMENT of RR parts for most models.
S. Adelman, 635 So. Columbus Ave., Mt. Vernon, N.Y.
160
JEWELRY IN THE BEST ROLLS-ROYCE MANNER.
See page 144 for picture. Available now:
Sterling 10K Solid 14K Solid
Silver Gold Gold
Cuff links $ 8.80 $ 55.00 $ 66.00
Tie Bar 5.50 19.80 23.60
Pin 3.30
Charm 3.02
ROI.I.S-ROYCK PHANTOM I
Sterling silver name
1929
plate, for your dash, owned by
about 4 " Wide. Sidney A. Wells, (ilencoc, III.
$12.50.
These prices include 10% federal tax and postage.
Send your orders directly with checks made out to
Erffmeyer and Son, Inc., Manufacturing Jewelers,
246-250 Plankinton Bldg., Milwaukee 3, Wisconsin.
P-I PARTS--Radiator shutter, board with instruments,
temp, gauge, double bar bumper, front bumper brackets
rear ditto, front splash pan, bullet headlamps, headlamp
brackets, late tail light bracket, drum side lamps,
crank handle, new water pump, intake manifold with
water jacketed riser, dual distributor unit, valve cover,
spare wheel clamps, hood locks, 4" door handles, hub
caps, horn button, wheel balance washers, carburetter
float, tools, oil guns. P. M. Broomfield, Carolina, R.I.
BULBS--12 volt, single filament, double contact, 21 c.p.
and 32 c.p. 75¢ each. Elmer's Auto Parts, Webster, N.Y.
AUTO-IMPORTS LTD.
422 N. Capitol Ave. Indianapolis, Indiana
Rolls-Royce, Bentley, Aston-Martin, Daimler,
MG, Morris, Humber, Hillman, Sunbeam-Talbot
SALON, SALES AND SERVICE - Phone TA. 2018
FOREIGN CAR CENTER
SALES * NEW CAR * SERVICE
Restorers of the 1954 "Rolls-Royce Trophy" Car
Shavney Bros., props.
1415 N. 52nd St. Philadelphia 31, Pa.
Cable Address: "ROLLS"
WANTED
FOR EARLY GHOST--fan assembly, carburetter, fuel
air pump (hand), fuel pressure and oil pressure gauge.
Gordon Smith, Station CFOR, Grillia, Ontario, Canada.
COMPLETE BODY for '27 British Phantom I Rolls-
Royce, or information leading to same. Philip C. Duvall,
Upper Marlboro, Maryland.
WANTED--Criginal nickel silver Flying Lady radiator
ornament for 1925 Silver Ghost. Andrew Heyl, Shapley
Road, Gloucester, Mass.
20-GHOST CLUB LONDON AIRPORT MEET, SPRING RALLY, MAY 30, 1954
Left group, front to rear - Chairman A. J. Belsey's 1923 20 H.P. 79 AG, unidentified, Surg. Cmdr. B. Weston,
R.N.'s 1923 20 H.P. GA 11, G. E. Price's 1924 20 H.P. GMK 54, M. H. Potter-Irwin's 1926 20 H.P. GYK 44.
Center - Something unusual--3dn. Ldr.K. H. Wallis' 1924 S.G. 32 TM and J. G. Hampton's 1924 S.G. 120 EU.
Right - W. A. L. Cook's 1936 P-III 3AZ68, S. E. Sears's 1905 4 cyl. 20 H.P. 26350.