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welcome to the book! - my education - login - Dermalogica

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UV exposure<br />

fibroblasts<br />

UV exposure<br />

and<br />

inflamma<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

modula<strong>to</strong>rs<br />

activation of MMP<br />

genes in fibroblast<br />

triggers that instigate <strong>the</strong>se changes.<br />

These are chemical reactions that occur<br />

within <strong>the</strong> skin and include:<br />

• Generation of Reactive Oxygen Species<br />

(ROS), also known as free radicals.<br />

• Activation of metalloproteinase<br />

enzymes (Matrix Metalloproteinases or<br />

MMPs) with a subsequent decline in<br />

collagen biosyn<strong>the</strong>sis.<br />

• Glycation leading <strong>to</strong> Advanced<br />

Glycation End-products (AGEs).<br />

The treatment of skin aging used<br />

<strong>to</strong> rely on addressing <strong>the</strong> structural<br />

manifestations of pho<strong>to</strong>aged skin,<br />

such as wrinkles and loss of elasticity.<br />

Today, we can more effectively treat<br />

this skin condition by addressing <strong>the</strong><br />

actual biochemical reactions that trigger<br />

<strong>the</strong>se structural changes. Obviously,<br />

understanding <strong>the</strong>se specific biochemical<br />

epidermis<br />

dermis<br />

enzymes and proteins<br />

are syn<strong>the</strong>sized in<br />

fibroblast<br />

MMP enzyme<br />

(collagenase)<br />

reactions is key <strong>to</strong> treating <strong>the</strong> structural<br />

changes associated with skin aging.<br />

Let’s examine <strong>the</strong>se structural changes<br />

that occur in <strong>the</strong> epidermis and dermis,<br />

as well as <strong>the</strong> biochemical reactions that<br />

trigger <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

Biochemical Reactions that<br />

Cause Skin Aging<br />

Generation of Reactive Oxygen<br />

Species (ROS)<br />

Reactive Oxygen Species include oxygen<br />

ions, free radicals and peroxides. ROS<br />

are generally very small molecules and<br />

are highly reactive due <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> presence<br />

of unpaired electrons. They form as<br />

a natural by-product of <strong>the</strong> normal<br />

metabolism of oxygen. During times of<br />

environmental stress, ROS levels can<br />

increase dramatically, causing significant<br />

damage <strong>to</strong> cell structures. This is known<br />

fur<strong>the</strong>r degradation of collagen<br />

disorganized collagen<br />

clumping<br />

cross-linked collagen<br />

collagen<br />

MMP breaks<br />

down collagen<br />

and inhibits<br />

formation of<br />

new collagen<br />

1. MMP enzymes are activated within <strong>the</strong> fibrobla nucleus by UV light or inflamma<strong>to</strong>ry modula<strong>to</strong>rs.<br />

2. MMPs, such as collagenase, are syn<strong>the</strong>sized in <strong>the</strong> fibroblast.<br />

3. MMPs (collagenase) break down collagen and inhibit formation of new collagen.<br />

4. Collagen is degraded in<strong>to</strong> gelatinous peptides that are fur<strong>the</strong>r degraded by o<strong>the</strong>r MMPs. Cross-linking of collagen also occurs, causing wrinkling and stiffening of skin.<br />

as oxidative stress, which is <strong>the</strong> major<br />

cause of degenerative disorders including<br />

aging and disease. Studies have shown<br />

that UV-induced damage <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> skin<br />

is in part caused by Reactive Oxygen<br />

Species. Lipid peroxidation also results<br />

from ROS damage <strong>to</strong> cell membranes,<br />

leading <strong>to</strong> premature aging, skin cancer<br />

and cell death.<br />

Activation of Matrix<br />

Metalloproteinases (MMPs)<br />

Matrix Metalloproteinases are enzymes<br />

that, when activated, control tissue<br />

degradation in <strong>the</strong> dermis. MMPs include<br />

collagenase that specifically decomposes<br />

particular collagens or o<strong>the</strong>r proteins in<br />

<strong>the</strong> extracellular matrix of <strong>the</strong> dermis.<br />

Collagenase is really a group of enzymes<br />

that are responsible for breaking down<br />

<strong>the</strong> different types of collagen and elastin.<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>book</strong><br />

dermalogica AGE smart ® | retail products 79<br />

skin health | retail products | category

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