journey

BIBLIOTECA UNIVERSITARIA DE MÁLAGA
6107825197
/

A JOURNEY F R O M
GIB.R ALTAR T O MALAGA;
W I T H
A View of that Garrifon and its Environs;
a Particular Account of the Towns in the
Hoya of M A L A G A ; rhe Antient
and Natural Hiílory of thofe Cities, of tbe
Coaít bctween them, and of the Mountains of
RONDA.
1 LI.t'STRATED \V I T H T II E R O MAN INSCRIPTION*
AND COINS OF EACH MUNICIPAL TOWN,
A6EOCR AiKICAL AND CI. « SSIC AL C !! AR T, AXDTHIIlTF.fi
rtAir.s EÍ;C?.AVEU FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS,
TAKEN IS THE YE AR 1772.
By FRANGÍS CÁRTER, Efq. F.S.A.
THE SECOND EDITION.
V C L. iU
QituJam, quantafuit, Res grfttc, WJpania movjlrant;
Ha ficaiit, LaJ/iA'i, ipjaque Haxa ¡locera.
AMBROSIO MORALES.
LONÜON; PKINTED BY J. NICHO LS,
V ORÍ, CADE1.I,1N THE S T R A N D, MDCCLXXX,

C O N T E N T S
THE SECOND VOLU M E.
B O O K III.
Iftan, p. 2. Perfpeftive view of Marvella, g. Mar-
vella Wine, 5. Romantick fituation of Ho-
jen, 7. Defcription of the Garabaneo, 10.
And of the Calceta, 11. Manner of lite of
the inhabitants of thefe mountains^ ibid. El
puerto de Hojen, 13. Water-fall, 14. Al­
cornoque defcribed, ibid. Monda, 16. Trué
fituation of ancient Munda, 18. Batirles fought
on the plains of Munda, 19. Ftrft ítone of
Munda¿ 22. Coin of Adrián engraved, 24.
Another of Carteia from the eabinet &í the
fev. Mr. Cracherode, ibid. Sigili Fluvius,
it's eourfej 2 5. By Pliny calkd Malacas flu-
vius, z6. Coin of Munda from father Flores*
28. Second ftone of Munda, 30. Thirdflone
of Munda, 31. View of the Baths of Hardales,
32. Quality of their waters, 33. Pleafant fitua-»
tionofCoyn, 34. Stone of Tolox, 37. Alhou-
tin and Alhourinejo, 39. PaJace of the Retiro
de Santo Thomas at Ghuriana, 40. Arabick
infcription there, 41.
O F
C H A P . I.
VOL. II. b £ HAP.

CONTENTS.
C H A P. II.
Sierra de Cártama, defcription of it, 43. Río
de Alora, 45. Antiquities and Statues found
at Cártama, 46. Temple of Apollo, ibid.
Defcription of a mntilated Statue, 48; and
of íive others, 49. Column of the Temple of
Apollo, 51. Seventh Statue, 53. Stone of
Junia Ruílica, 55. Publick pórticos of the
Romans defcribed, 59. Lapis Specularis car-
ried by the Romans from Segobriga, 60. Pub­
lick baths, 61. Fiíhponds, 62. Secondftonc
of Cártama, 64. Third ftoneof Cártama, 65.
Fourth, ditto, 67. Six more ftones of Cárta­
ma, 72 to 81. Etymology of Cártama, 81.
Liítof Román families in Cártama, 82. Coins
found at Cártama, 84. San&uary of the Vir­
gin, ibid. View of the ancient Republican
Government of the Romans, 85. Remarks on
the privilege to erefl flatues, 89. Monument
of Gneius and Publius Scipio, 94. Great ufe
of thefe monuments confidered, 95.
C H A P. III.
Alora, 98. Two ñones of Alora, 99. Stone
at Rome, 102. Towns in the Sierra de Ab-
dalazis, ibid. Example of the fertility of the
Hoya of Malaga, 103. Manner of treading
out

CONTENTS.
out the corn in Spain, ibid. Román military
Road, 104. Ruins of a Román bridge, 105.
River of Malaga, 105. Stone of Marcus
Aurelius, ibid. Mile ftone of Malaga, 106.
Village of El Valle, built on the ruins of the
ancient Nefcania, 111. Firft ftone of Nefca-
nia, 112. Mineral waters of Nefcania, 112.
Plant called Saxifragia, 113. Seven ftones of
Nefcania, 114 to 123. Monument erected to
Séneca the philofopher, 123. Houfe of Séneca
at Cordova, ibid. Farm called El Lagar de
Séneca, 124. Tenth ftone of Nefcania, 126.
Vale of Antiquera, 127. River Genil, ibid.
Pena de los enamorados, 128. Salt lakes
near Antiquera, ibid. Its ancient ñame Anti-
karia, 129. Four infcriptions found at Anti­
quera, 129 to 132. Coin of Antiquera, 132.
The Itinerary of Antoninus correfted, ibid.
Arms of Antiquera, 133. Defcription of the
Moorifh armory in the caílle of Antiquera,
ibid. Lift of eminent men natives of Anti­
quera, 136 to 140. Singills, its fituation, 140.
Seven infcriptions found at Singilis, 141—146.
C H A P. IV.
Aratifpi, its fituation, 147, Four infcriptions
of Aratifpi, 148 to 152. Family of Marcus
Valerius Martial radicated at Aratifpi, 1 -jo.
Anecdote of the family of Licinii, 151. Sa-
b 2 boru,

C O N T E N T S ,
bora, 15 5. Pedro Mefia, a Spanilh antiquary,
finds there a remarkabie infcription on brafs,
jbid. Two magiftrates of Sabora commemor
rated, 158. Cañete, 159. Two infcriptiqns
found there, 160. An infcription dqg up at
Teba, 163. Our arrival at Malaga, 165.
Review of our journey, ibid. Courtefy of
the Spaniíh peafants, 167. Fatherly piety of
a Moor, 168.
B O O K IV.
C H A P. I.
Malaga, 169. Founded by the Phqenicians, 171,
Its íituation defcribed, ibid. Four views- of
this city drawn by me, 172. Malaga vifited
by ihe Phoceans, 174. Firít ftone of Malaga,
175. Date of the Carthaginians arrival at
Malaga, 175. Etymology of the ñame of
Malaga, ibid. Its latitude, 176. Andprof-
perity under the Romans, 177. By thern
created a municipium and confedérate city,
ibid. Its privileges, and a faying of Cali"
gula, 179. Twelve other ñones of Malaga,
181 to 194. Román veftigia in the Alcafaba,
185. Infcriptions found there in the year
1752, 188 ; with, feveral Mooriíh antiquities
which I purchafed, 189. Fourteenth ftone
pf Malaga, 195, Stone of Rome» 201. Fif-
feenth. ftone of Malaga, 205. Se ven. other
/Iones

CONTENTS.
ftones of Malaga, 207 to 213. Two infcríp*-
tions at Rome, 214. Ruins of an ampliU
theatre in Malaga, 215. Ancient fe-
pulchres and gold coin found in Malaga,
21,6. Lift of Román families in Malaga, 217
to 221. Patrick biíhop of Malaga, ibid. Ma­
laga conquered by the Goths, 222. Se-
verus biíhop of Malaga, his works, ibid.
Strictures on the ftate of learning in Spain
durjng the time of the Romans and Goths,
223. Román ianguage, drefs, and manners,
preferved in Spain, 224. Román families
exiíting in Spain, 227. Román cuftoms con-
tinued in Spain, ibid. Lift of Spaniíh writers
in the Román age, 228. Revival of learning
in B^etica, ibid. Reafons that induced me to
poftpone a treatife on Spaniíh literature, 229.
Academy of Belles Lettres at Seville fend me
£ copy of their publications, 230. Lift of
learned men in Malaga, ibid. Short duration
of theGothick empire in Spain, 232. State of
the fciences under the Goths, feen by their
coins, 233. Specimens of three of them from
my own cabinet, 234. (See an account of them
jji the Preface.)
C H A P . ir.
Annals of Malaga under the Mooriíh govern-
ment, 236 to 294. Ibnu El Baitar a native
#f Malaga, and a writer 00 botany and phy fick,
2 39-

C O N T E N T S ,
thedral, 379. Biíhop's palace, 381. Spaníft
houfes how conftru&ed, ibid¿ Hanging gar-
dens at Barcelona, 383* Defcription of a
Mooriíh houfe near Granada, 384. Nümber
of inhabitants in Malaga, 385* The Éxchange,
386. Defcription of the mountains of Ma­
laga, 387. Their fertiíity, 389. Mofcatel
raifins, 390. Ufe and docility of the Spaniíh
Affes, 392. Vines, antiquity of their culti-
vation, 395. Houfes of the merchants in the
mountains, 397. Of the vintage, ibid. The
Agua pie, 399. The Picafigo, 400. Epi-
gram of Martial, 401. The olive tree, ibid.
Silver mine in Gibralfaro, 402. Mines worked
in the time of Charles V, 403. Reafons-of
their being abandoned, 404. Air of Malaga,
405. Terral wind, 406. Higo Chumbo,
view of it and of the Spaniíh aloe, 407* Ba­
nanas, 409. Sweet cañe, 410. Palm treea
thrive beít on the coaft of Valentía, 411,
Cyprefs trees, their furprifing age, 412.
Defcription of the Efparto, 414. and of the
Batata de Malaga, 415. Clay images, 417.
Brief charaíter of the modera Spaniards, ibid*
Drefs of the Spaniíh fliepherds, 419. Cha-
raíter of the Spaniíh peafant.s, ibid. Spaniíh
Propios their integrity, 423. Drefs of the
Spaniíh women defcribed, 428. An account
of the Spaniíh dances, 42 6. in vogue in the
time of Pliny, 427. Conclufion, 429.
A JOUUNEY

[ I ]
A
J O U R N E Y
F R O M G 1 B R A L T A R
T O M A L A G A .
B O O K III.
CHAPTER I.
'J^HE etemal fnows of the Sierra 21 R i o Ver

A J O U R N E Y FROM
ing above four leagues, almoft hid
among the mountains, enters the
Campirfa, and forms a more ampie
bed under the gardens of Iftan; thence
it haftens to the fea three miles to the
Weft of Marvella.
I S T A N.
Iftan is fituated on the Eaft íide of
the river, and on the lap of the Sierra
de Arboto, whofe afpeót towards the
fea is what the Spaniards cali Pelado,
peeled, and entirely barren: in the
time of the Moors Marmol tells us [a],
that Iftan was a rich and populous
town, but it is now a poor and incon-
fiderable village.
¡a} Lib. ir.
The

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. $
The Campirf a of Marvella from the B 0 0K III. •
river to the town is very fruitful;
the pomgranates of this coñntry are
fine flavoured, and their bread has
the preference to that of the Hoya
Malaga.
M A R V E L L A .
The íituation of Marvella is exceed-
ingly pleafant; its view is that of a
Mooriíh town, whofe ruinous walls
and tottering towers of Arabian fa-
brick proclaim their founders [¿] :
the prefent inhabitants bear the cha-
ra¿ler of an uncivil inhofpitable peo-
[¿] Of Marvella no traveller ever took a view,
for reafon I drew one from the Eaít of the
town; whence the Mooriíh buildings are moft
confpicuous, as well as the convent on the hill.
B 2 pie,

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
A ple, many of them defcendants of the
Moors, who ítill feem to refent the ill-
treatment of their forefathers; henee
the Spanifh proverb,
Marbella es bella;
Pero no entrar en ella.
Indeed the neighbourhood of the
fea, the fine country about it, and the
fraitful mountains behind, render
Marvella a pleafant and cheap town;
in it are three royal convenís, built by
Ferdinand V; Los Trinitarios, Cal-
fados, Los Vi&orianos, and Los Padres
de San Francifco, and an hofpital called
De Bafan, from its founder: at prefent
the city is much enlarged on the íide
of the Sierra, under which rifes a
íuburb and convent of friars; towards
the fea is a very fine alameda of trees
with fountains of good water: the
number of inhabitants in Marvella
may amount to about 4000 fouls.
Ferdinand

GIBR ALTAR TO MALAGA. 5
Ferdinand the Catholick, who re- BooiC - m -
deemed Marvella from the Mahome-
tans, ereéted it into a city, giving Arms of tl.e
them for arms his own device, the cityofM*vella.
yoke and bündle of arrows [c],
The wine of Marvella is ver y Mandia
' Wine.
good, drier and higher flavoured than
the Malaga with much of the tafte of
the Madeira; and I am perfuaded, were
it properly prepared, would be ef-
teemed in England, increafe in valué,
and thereby encourage the inhabitants
to cultivate their vineyards with more
care: at prefent moíl of their wines
turn out thin and hungry; and as
they are fold young, juít as they come
[c] Ferdinand V, hereby cvidenced the firm-
nefs with which he intended to bind the Moors
under his dominión; I pofíefs a filver coin of this
prince, bearing a yoke, with the cords hanging
down on each fide; the reader will find it en-
graved in the tail-piece of this book.
Xi ^ from

6 A J O U R N E Y FRQM
M a r v e l l a - from the lees, they fetch but a mi*
ferable price at Gibraltar, where moft
of them are carried for the confump-*
tion of the garrifon [d~\.
RoadofMar- Marvella, though an open road,
vclla.
afíbrds good anchoring ground in ten
fathom water, where, except in very
bad weather, íhips may fafely lie;
accordingly we learn from Marmol [e],
that, in the íixteenth century, veffels
from all parts of the North ufed to
frequent this port annually, and load
wines, figs, and raifíns; but Ma­
laga has long fince run away with
that trade, partly íhrough the fuperior
body of their wines, but more fo from
[d] I brought over with roe a caík of Mar­
vella wine, which has been judged equal in fla-
your to the wine of Frontignan, and much fu­
perior to it in colour, brightnefs, and ftrength.
[e] Lib. iv.
the

GI BR ALT AR TO MALAGA, j
the convenience and fafety of their
mole.
H O J E N.
From Marvella \ve afcended the
Sierra by degrees over very fruitful
hills direótly North of the town; after
travelling about an hour, we arrived
at the íteep part of the mountains,
and in two more reached Hojen placed
on the lide of the Sierra in a moft
romantic and delightful fituation.
B o C K I f L
This hill is fo full of verdure, that Rom ? nt ' c !'*
the village as well as the roads about Hojen '
it are, in a literal fenfe, covered,
íhaded, and crowned with all manner
of fruit-trees of a prodigious íize ; to
whofe topmoft branches the luxu-
B 4 riant

A J O Ü R N E Y F R O M
riant vine mounts vigorouíly and
hangs in over-grown cluílers, num-
berlefs bunches of red, black, and
green grapes, which, frequently in-
termixed with the golden apple, the
pomgranate, and the orange, expofe
a moít enchanting pióture to the
charmed eye, while the ear is
deafened by the fall of waters, tum-
bling in noify ftreams from various
parts of the hill; to compleat the
landfcape, above the town rifes per­
pendicular a rock, inacceílible on the
front and fídes, whereon appear the
ruins of a Moorifli caftle.
At Hqjen we ílopped to breakfaft,
and, entering into the firít houfe of
the village, were entertained, by its
courteous owners, in a plain though
noble

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
noble ítyle; to them the far-fetched
tea, the painted china, and the fumes
of coíFee, are unknown; clean earthen
bowls of milk, warm from the goat,
a baíket of grapes, with their rich
bloom courting the touch, and a
pyramid of figs, ítill gliftening with
the morning dew, crowned the ruftic
board,
Our hoft was pleafed at the pre-
ference we had given his cottage, and
we had much reafon to praife his
hofpitality; for which he conftantly
refufed the leaíl gratuity.
The habitation of thefe happy vil-
lagers convinced me how few are the
articles fufficient to render our ex-
jftence not only eafy but comfortable:
the hovjfe we were in coníifted of two
large

IO A J O U R N E Y FROM
HQJES. large apartments, of which the irme?
was the ftore-houfe of their animal
provifions; eorn was heaped in one
córner, garbanzos [/] and lentils in
another, of three jars, one was full of
oil for their lamps and table, and in
the others was pickled pork íufíicient
for the year; the ílore of baccalao [g]
promifed plenty during Lent, and
from the ceiling hung grapes, pom-
granates, and other fruits; the delicate
kid makes a variety at their tables
during fummer, and in winter they 1
Jiave plenty of game, the íhooting of
which is one of their favourite diver-»
[/] The garbanzo is a large and delicate pea,
much efleemed in Spain, where they keep therq
the year through,
[jj-] The baccalao or falt cod is brought frora
the banks of Newfoundland, and is the moft va-
luable article of the Britiíh coraraerce in Spain.
fipns;

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
lions; their women grind the corn in
hand-mills, and fpin the thread, with
which they knit their calcetas
the articles of linen and cloaths they
leceive of th.e íhopkeepers in the
towns, exchanged for wine, oil, wfreat
and fruits; by this primitive method
of trading, they feldom touch money,
and therein, in my opinión, confífts
their greateft happinefs; the puré air
they breathe, conftant exercife, and
the fteepneís of their hills, renders
their bodies alert, healthy, and robuft,
and their minds chearful and free
from that univerfal langour which
opprcfTes the Spaniards in the hot
yaks below,
f h"\ Calcetas are coarfe knit thread ílockings
without feet, nniverfal'.y worn by the country-
peqple in Spain.
No

a
A J O U R N E Y FROM
No tiende aqui ambición lazos y redes,
Ni la avaricia vá tras los ducados;
.No afpira aqui la gente a los eítados,
Ni hambrea las privanzas y mercedes j
Libres eftán de trampas y paflones
Los corazones;
Todo es llaneza,
Bondad, limpieza,
Poca malicia,
Cierta juílicia,
Y hace vivir la gente en alegría,
Concorde paz; y honefta medíanla.
Gafpar Gil. Polo.
Ambition here ne'er íhews his head,
With wiles his artful nets to fpread j
Ñor golden ducats e'er betray
Their hearts to avarice, a prey ;
They after honours never pant,
N/or poíts ñor royal penfions want *,

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A .
A1I with their humble lot contení, BQOK III.
Their Uves in innocence are fpent j
Whíte-robed peace,
Sweet love and eafe,
And with them join'd
A chearful mind,
Puré pleafures that fuch virtues give
In their happy raanfions Uve.
Henee we began to afcend E1 the d e
° Hojen.
higheft and moft dangerous part of
the Sierra ; it was the labour of three
hours to reach its fummit, where is a
pafs called El Puerto de Hojen; heré
the retrofpedl íhews you a noble view
of the country below of Marvella, its
fine Campiña watered by the river
Verde, and the Mediterranean fea:
Sweet interchange ' -
Of hills and valieys, rivers, woods and plains,
Now land, now fea.
Milton.
On

14 A J O U R N E Y F R O M
Ho ** K - On the fide of the road> which is
Water-fon. eXceííively narrow and fteep, tumbles
down with a horrid noife, one of the
moft fuperb cafcades of rock water I
ever faw, falling from beds of marble,
fifty, an hundred, and two hundred
feet under each other: thefe refervoirs
by the forcé of the water, are planed
and ícooped into prodigious bafons,
poliíhed,, and as white as fhow.
As we mounted ftill higher,tlie afpecl
of the hills began to appear fterile, ,and
we found the climate changed and
very eold; however, they bear forefls
of the íturdy oak, calied by Linnaeus
Queráis fuber: large quantities of cork,
the produce of thefe trees, are íhipped
The Alcor- 0g- a t Malaga: the alcornoque of Spain
dtffeFS from the cork free of Italy,
lince it maintains its foliage all
the

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
the year; whereas that on the other
íide of the Alps íheds the leaf in
autumn.
The Puerto de Hojen is ib narrow
that but one beaft can pafs at a time;
it is cut through a fteep preeipice,
over which the cork trees hang, and
form a horrid gloom: this pafs has
for ages been infamous for bands of
robbers, but of late no accident of the
kind has been remembered; thence
you begin to defcend, and, leaving the
Sierra, you find yourfelf on the
hills of Munda, directing your courfe
to the Eaft; thefe are entirely barren.
M U N D A .
Ambroíio Morales, Father Flores,
and every antiquary, both native and
a foreign,

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
foreign, have conítantly marked the
prefent Munda for the celebrated fpot
where Caefar defeated the younger
Pompeys, deceived by the ancient
ñame it has retained entire, contenting
themfelves with the report of others,
and avoiding the toil and expence of
a perfonal examination ; a negligence
unpardonable, efpecially in fo eminent
a writer as Morales, who was born in
this province, and paíTed part of his
life in his native city of Cordova.
The fituation of Munda and its
plain is fo particularly defcribed by
Aulus Hirtius Panfa, in his commen-
taries of the Spaniíh war, and the ab-
folute neceííity of room fufficient for
the drawing up of two fuch armies as
there fought for the dominión of the
world, are circumílances which are in-
difputable,

GIBR. ALTAR TO MALAGA. I7
difputable, and can never be reconciíed Bo0

• A JOURNEY FROM
íingle file of men could not draw up
on either íide.
The elegant and learned writer
Don iego de Mendofa (brother to
the Marquis de Mondejar), who flou-
riíhed in the time of Philip II, was
the firft who afcertained the trae
fituation of ancient Munda, three
leagues to the Weftward of Munda,
which place he viíited and examined :
he fays, what I verily believe, that
hardly any ruins were then to bes
traced, the whole having been by
degrees tranfplanted to modern Munda
and other parts: the tradition oí
the countrymen, who called k Munda
la Vieja; the plain extending under itt
the rivulet in the middle, ítill exift-
ing, and the fwamps he remarkedj
left no dovibt with him of the identity
of

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. ÍCt>
of the fpot. In his days had been
dug up broken pieces of arms, and
bones of men and horfes; and the
peafants affirmed they frequently faw
apparitions in the air of fighting
fquadrons with cries and íhouts: fuch
mre the effeíts of prepoffeílion, and an
•imagination heated by tales and difmal
-ftories, handed down from generation
lo generation, fucked in by thefe
Tufticks with their milk, difficolt to
iovercome by a cultivated education,
never in thofe who have none.
B o o i t I L
Father Flores has fixed in the plains on the Plains
of Mtinda,
¡of Munda, the bloody and decifive between g.
?.nd C. Scipio,
fight between Gneius and Cornelius ?££f&.
Scipio, Román pro-confuls, and Mago, fore Chnft '
•general of the Carthaginians, 210
years before Chriít, and the empire
of the former fecnred in Spain by the
C % ilaughter

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
MUNDA. flaüghter of 12,000 of the enemy;
cÍfar bet rrthere likewife, 165 years after, was
Sonsf ^45 fought the moft famous battle of
Years before
chrift. Munda, between Caefar and the
younger Pompeys, whereon depended
the fate of the moft renowned com-
monwealth that ever exifted; the
glory and very life of the moft for­
túnate captain of antiquity, the do­
minión of the whole world, and the
eftabliíhment of an empire, under
which was to be born its Bieíled
Saviour. It was fought 45 years
before that adorable event, on the
17* of March, the day on which the
feafts of Bacchus were celebrated in
Rome.
After the entire deftruction of the
republican party ' by this victory,
Csefar laid íiege to the town of Munda,
which

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
which he furrounded, horrid to relate,
with the bodies of their ílaughtered
friends; his camp he fortified with
wood cut out of a neighbouring foreft,
in which was found a ítately palm-tree
that Caefar ordered to be preferved as
a happy prefage of his future fortune.
" Apud Mundam, D. Julius Caíbris
" Locum capiens, quum Silvam cae-
" deret arborem palmse repertam con-
" fervari, ut ornen victorias juflit^]."
Muratori (page CDLI) has publiíhed
an infcription of the emperor Adrián,
which I think will go farther ítill in
fixing the true fituation of this place ;
Father Flores has tranfcribed it with-
out having taken notice of the wide
n
\b~] Sueton. lib. ii.
C 3 arul

34 ' .A -J.b/Ü IR N £ T F KO .»?.
MuKt>A - and manifeft difference of the diftance
fírft Stone of
fchere marked to Cartima from Munda
of twenty miles, and that of modern
Munda^ (which he takes for granted
is the ancient one) and only meáfures
three íhort leagues or nine Román
miles, The ftone is as foliows:
Munáa. IMP-CAESAR'D'NERVAE*
TRAIANI'F'NERVAE'NEPOS'
HADRIANVS'TRAIANVS'AVG'
DACICVS'MAXIMVS-BRITAN
NICVS'MAXIMVS-GERMANICVS
MAXIMVS'PONTIFEX-MAXIMVS'TRIB'
f OTEST'H-COS-II.P-P-PRAETERQVAM'
QVOD'PROVINCIIS-REMISIT'DECIES.
NONIES'CENTENÁ'MILLIA-N*
SIBI-DEDITA'A'MVNDA-ET'FLVVIO»
SIGILA'AD'CERTIMAM'VSQVE.*
XX-M-P-P'S'RESTITVIT»

GI B R A L T AR T O M A L A G A »
" It was probably a mile-ftone or
" pillar, eredted in honour of the
" emperor Hadrian during his fecond
" conmlíhip, and to commemorate his
" generoñty in remitting to thefe pro-
" vmces the fum of ninety hundred
" thoufand feílerces they were in-
" debted to him, and mending, at
" his own expence, the road from
Munda to the river Sigila, and even
" to C arrima, being the fpace of 2 0
" miles."
1
The N. at the end of the o, tn line,
Itands for nummum^ and ninety hun­
dred thoufand feílerces amounted to
the great fum of £. 72,648 íter.
Spartian, in his life of Adrián, has
mentioned this generoíity of the em­
peror, without fixing the fum (which
C 4 is

A J O U R N E Y FROM
is -here ítipulated) and rhát he burned
the bonds and regiíters of thefe ar-
rears due to him in the public forum.
" In provinciis vero etiam ex re-
" liquis ingentes fummas remiiit, fyn-
*' graphis in foro Divi Trajani, quo
" magis fecuritas ómnibus robora-
retur inceníis [i]."
This princely generoíity was de-
fervedly celebrated in a medal of large
brafs; on the reverfe of which appears
the emperor burning the bonds and
records, with this legend, RELIQVA.
VETERA-H-S-NOVIES.MILLIES'ABOUTA.
or ¿,7,265,625 íter.
[/'] Spartian, cap. vil.
[¿] See the medal, píate 2. Since this work
has been in the prefs, I was íhewn by the Rev.
Mr, Cracherode, N° 1, of the Coins of Carteia,
Qf

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 2 $
The fecond confulíhip of Adrián
was in the year of our Lord 118,
when he vifited this part of Spain,
leaving every where behind him
marks of his bounty.
B o O K I I L
s ü The river Sigila takés its rife in the '

ftg A J O U R N E Y FROM
. 'Mgin>A. fe2 \yy Churiana, a league to the Weft
of - Malaga; it is vulgarly called El
% P aia"« n FiSRio de Malaga, as it was anciently by
vius.
Pliny Malacas fluvius; under which
denomination you will find it in the
chart.
The infcription feems to place
Munda on the Weft of the river which
ran between that town and Cártama;
this holds good with the opinión of
Mendofa, but cannot agree with the
íituation of modern Munda, which
is of the fame fide of it as Cártama.
The great ftumbling-block of Mo­
rales is a ftone he reports to have
been feen in the portal of the church.
of Munda, which I in vain looked for,
and if it ever exifted there, it has been
íince plaftered over, or removed on
fome

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A .
fome modern repairs to the edifice; if Boo1c
we admit his veracity, the fame will -
only prove what we have already
fuppofed; and Mendofa hints, that it
was brought here from the primitive
city by the Moors, who, as the fame
author obferves, in the 4 t h bóok of
his Guerra de Granada, have, in num-
berlefs places, íhewn their frequent
cuftom of changing the íituation of
towns to others more fruitful and con-
venient, tranfplanting the materials",
and perpetuating the ancient ñame.
Strabo has declared Munda to have;
been the metrópolis of allthe circuna-
jacent cities:
" The chief city and metrópoli?
*' of this región is Munda [/]."
[/] Strab. lib. iii,
Father

A J O U R N E Y FROM
Father Flores has publiíhed a coin.
of Munda, the only one ever found [m],
which feems to have been ftruck in
the confular times of the Román
ernpire: the reverfe is a Sphinx.
Munda, as Plihy gives room to un-
derftand, was honoured by the Ro-
mans with the title of a colony,
fubjeól to the chancery of Ecija: it
cnjoyed a mint, as we have juft novv
feen; and from another ítone, which
was never yet publiíhed, copied by
Father Milla in his manufcript hiftory
óf the biíhoprick of Malaga, it had a
fplendid temple dedicated to the god-
defs Ceres, wherein, after the cuftom
of Rome, followed by all the colonies,
were celebrated anniverfary games tQ
[«] Sec tbe medaj.
that

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
that goddefs; this infcription feems to
have been placed as a memorial within
the temple, and imports, " That Titus
" "Batillus, an huíbandman of many
" mountainous and fruitful lands, ac-
" cording to the orders of his Father
M Batillus, worthy to he perpetually
" ob'ferved, decrees a fow to be ofíered
" to Ceres, on her anniverfary feaft,
* l the ides of the month Quintilis or
" July, every year, and a banquet
" given in the public college of that
" goddefs; and if his fon íhould be
" remifs in fulfilhng this decree, he
" authorifes the prcetor of Munda to
" punifli him by a public fine, Scc*

MUNHA.
Second Stone
oí Munda.
A J.Ü.U 1NE.I FROM
ECO'T'BATtLLVS'MVLTOR'MONT'AGRI-
COLAET-VBERI.TERRAE.DIVES ANNlVTia»
SARIO'DIVAE.CERERI'SACRO'PORCA'ILXI.
MACT. . . . B ATILLO-P ATRI'MEO'FERP . . ¡
OBSERVAN'D.VT- . . IDVS'QVINT-VNO'
QyOD'AN'REJJEVNTE-PORC A'IMMOL*
ET'PVBL'COLL EG-EIVS-HARÉ-E ?VLVM-ET«
SI-FILIVS.MEVS'INTERMIS-CONSTITVTA-
A'PR AET'MVND'MVLCTA'PVBL'ILLYM" . . .
PLECTI
The month being called Quintilis
and not Julius, aflures us the date of
this ftone is older than the age of
Julius Casfar, who gave bis own
ñame to the fifth month, when he
reformed the calendar
[«] It is much to be lamented, that Father
Milla has not expreffed where he found this ftone j
the bulk of which muft have preferved it from
being carried very far from its primitive fituation;
a fight of it would determine that of ancient
Munda beyond the poííibility of a difpute.
3 ta

GIERALTAR TO MALAGA.
In the reign of Trajan, Munda
feems from Pliny to have gone to
ruin, as he fays, " Interque fuit Munda
" cum Pompeii filio capta [o]:" again
it appears to have recovered itfelf by
the favour of Julius Nemefius No-
mentanus, governor of the province
under Marcus Aurelius, who ordered
the town-houfe to be rebuilt, in order
that the fathers and people might
therein aíTemble for the right-govern-
ing the commonwealth; over the door
of which fenate-houfe was the follow-
ing infcription, being the fame quoted
by Morales, and it may be found
Gruter:
B q o k i i l
IVL-NEMESIVS- NOMENTAN'VICE-M.AVR EL, Third Stoac
of Munda.
IMP-SACRA'BETICAM-GVBERN'PRAETORIVM.
IN'VRBE'MVNDA-QyO'PATRES-ET-POP-OB-REMP*
RITE'ADMINIST-CONVEN-FIERI-MAND-
fo] Lib. iü4 cap. i.
Modera

Jí A JOURNEY FROM
^_ MuNPA - Modern Monda has nothing to re-
M¿ commend it, being a fmall village on
the declivity of a hill.
BATHS OF HARDALES.
Four leagues to the North of
Munda, in the fame mountains, and
half a league from the town of Har-
dales, lies the village of Caratraca,
which ponerles the famous baths of
Hardales: they confín of two fprings,
that rife out of a barren hill, and
form a bafon of water, capable of
bathing forty perfons; a low mud
wall furrounds it, and another fe-
parates that part deítined for the
women.
The

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 33
The virtue and efiicacy of thefe B o o K - m -
waters is fovereign in all cafes of oíd Q
wounds, hurts, fwellings, tumours,
rh'eumatifm, and paralytick diforders;
their quality is fulphurous and fall of
nitre; their ímell ungrateful and
ftinking; their nature cold in ex­
treme, and their tafte fweet and flimy.
I viíited thefe baths in the year
1756, and drew a perfpective view
of them; they are much injured by
the rains in winter, as well as rendered
ufelefs to the public during that
feafon, for want of a roofed inclofure.
People from all parts of Spain, and the
coaíls of Fránce, feek here a certain
relief in their diforders, if they are
üfed with proper precaution; elfe they
óften prove fatal, for which purpofe a
Yol. II. D phyfician
s w««j[. t h "

A J O Ú R N E Y F R O M
phyíician from Cafarabonella con-'
ílantly attends in the fummer.
C O Y N.
From Monda you direét your courfe
over very fine hills, covered with vine-
yards, about two hours ride Eaíl and
by South to Coyn, where the Sierra
bounds the Hoya of Malaga; on the
Weft it runs South and by Eaíl to
the fea at Cape Molinos.
Thevillage of Coyn, founded by the
Moors, was to them as it now is to
the prefent inhabitants of Malaga, a
delicious retreat for paííing the fpring
months; the great abundance and ex-
cellency of its water, healthinefs of
the air, luxuriance of the foil and
verdure,

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A .
Verdure, invite the wealthy merchants
to fpend in it the fummer feafon, and
the biíhop has here a paiace.
The quantity of water which funs
through the town, tumbles down from
the hills behirid it in béautiful and
natural falls, and turns á number of
milis that eiiable the inhabitants tb
fupply Malaga with great part of it&
bread, as they do daily in the feafoá
with loads of figs, appies, grapes 1 ,
apricots, peáches, cherries, pomgfá-
nates, and other früits.
Coyn rnay at prefent cbntaín from
íixtofevenhundredfamilies, and is gd-
verned by a Corrigidor, called El Cdí-
rigidor de las quatro Villas; his ju-
rifdiítion extending over Alora, Al-
hauin el grande, and Cártama.
D % T O L O X-

Totox.
A JÓÜRNEY FROM
T Ó L Ó X.
Two íhort leagues to the North-
Wefl: of Goyn, on the fummit of the
Sierra of its ñame, is feated Tolox,
¡Vvhereiri was difcovered this very year
1773 following large Román
tomb-ftone; the forerunner perhaps
pf others that may rank this place
among the municipal Román towns
of the province, many of which ítill
remain buried in oblivion. This
infcription was given me in manu-
fcript by the Canon Conde of Malaga,
and is now publiíhed for the firft
time.

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A . 39
" The purport of this ítone feems *°° K m -
" to be, that under it was buried a sl? n e of ,
' Tolox.
" well-difpofed youth called Hermo-
" genes, who died at the age of eight
" years, feven months, and fourteen
" days; it regrets the untimely lofs of
" his exiftence; and offers it as a
" memento to thofe children who
« may play over his tomb."
A L H O V R I N.
What we faid in praife of Coyn
may, with great propriety, be ex­
tended to the two pleafant villages of
Alhovrin el grande, and Alhovrinejo,
both being lituated under the fame
Sierra, both exceedingly fruitful, and
both furniíhing Malaga with the beft
bread they eat, efpeeially the former,
D 4 which

4

eiBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
^ALET'EL'BEDICI-ABENHABVZ-QVI- B ° O H »i-
DATE'HABEZ'LINDALVZ*
Thus Betici Abenhabuz deferid?
Andalucía,
This palace was always kept up by
the Arrahez, or governor of Malaga;
and on the country devolving to the
Chriftians, a royal feat was built on
its ruins, which Philip V, beítowed
on his natural fon Don Alonzo, biíhop
of Malaga: this prelate being of the
order of San Domingo, named it El
Retiro de Santo Thomas, and at his
death it fell of courfe to the Domi-
nican Convent; thefe fathers lince
exchanged it for another eílate of
lefs expence with the Count of Vil-
lalcazar, in whofe poíTefíion it re-
mains,
Henee

4*
A J O U R N E Y F R O M
CWIÜÍHA Henee the rnountains, before they
^aJSf " s reach the fea, take the ñame of the
Sierra de Mijas from a town of that
ñame.
CHAP,

OIBR ALTAR TO MALAGA. 43
C H A P T E H II,
C Á R T A M A .
jpROM Coyn, journeying two Sierr »a^ M -
leagues to the Eaftward, you
jneet with Cártama, lying on the lide
of a Sierra, which erects itfelf in the
Hoya of Malaga, and runs following
the courfe of the river South-Eaft,
•finiíhing gradually about a league
before it reaches the fea.
Cártama is feated on the lap[/>]
of a very high, íteep, and rocky
[/>] The Spaniards cali the íkirts of a mountain
faldas, laps.
mountain,

44 A JOHENET FHOSf
C a r t a m a - mountain, which, in latter times, the
Moors, according to their cuftom, for-
tified, and bwlt on it a ftrong caftle;
of which remains nothing but frag-
ments of the walls and towers.
The top of the hill, terminating
almoíl in a point, was furrounded by
high turréis ; a cave, pr mafmorrar,
refembling that of the AJcafaJpa oí
Malaga, is the only thing; worth re»
markingj as the whole is in ruins^
below the town, which faces th$
North, the hill gradually defcends %q
the river of Malaga, that winds
through the valley about half a mile
Uífcription of below; the Sierra de Cártama lies like
the Sierra de
Gamma. a jruge incumbrance in this valley,
taking ks courfe, as I fajé abOYe, from
South to ÍJorth about two leagues;
thence it turns íliarply to the Wefl: a
íhort

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 4£
íhort league further, and on the láft B o o K m -
liili but one of the Northern afpecl:
is fituated the town, which after it
lias pafled, it takes a fweep to the
South-Weft, and haftens tojoin the
Sierra de Munda.
On the íkirts of thefe laft hills 0 ^'*
grow the famous olive yards of Car-
tama, which conftitute the beíl eftates
of the town; the whole North afpect
of the Sierra is very bleak and barren
above the town, but below it the
groünd is abundantly fruitful.
Riode AlOTfc
When theriver of Malaga traverfes
the Hoya under Cártama, its ítream
is wide, deep, and rapid; in winter
always unfordable, having received
the water of the river of Alora, which
likewife rifes out of the Sierra Blan^
quilla

46 A JOÜRNEY FROM
CAUTAMA. qUiua n e a r the town of Burgo, whofe
it* Courfc. confines it waíhes, and, pafíing by the
caílle of Turón, throws itfelf into a
noted gullet between Villa-verde and
Abdalariz, furrounds Alora, and two
Ieagues further at Cafapalma joins its
current with that of Malaga.
ITSANTL^uWcí Cártama is feated on the very fpot
of an ancient town, which flouriílied
while the Romans commanded in
Spain, and even in the time of the
Goths: in the year 1752, fome per-
íbns digging near the church, a lktle
higher than the fquare of the town
under the hill, they difcovered the
Temple of ruins of a temple of Apollo, oüt of
Apollo dil-
eovered in
which were extra&ed fome ftupendous
monuments of antiquity [q]; the tem-
{jf\ The above-mentioned Canon Conde Chewed
me an inaccurate phm of this temple, which, ac-
cordíng to him, hadüeen a fquare building 44
Spaniíh yards wide.
pie,

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A .
pie, with a well-meant, though ill-
B o o i c I L
timed zeal, was filled up by order of^cS
the court, and built upon ; and moft 10
of the ftatues carried away to Madrid.
Thofe which have remained in
town are of white marble, broken and
mutilated; the Primitive Chriftians
never failing to deface fuch as fell
in their way : in the acts of the
council held at Illiberi in the fourth
century, it was expreífly ordained,
that all mafters íhould take care to
deftroy the Idols in the poíTeflion of
their llaves, many of whom, being
natives of provinces where Chriftianity
was not yet eftabliíhed, rather than
offer violence to the objects of their
miftaken devotion, buried them in
the earth; four fuch were found en-
tire at Granada, and, far their beauty,
were
47

h jouaNíy FROM
C a r t a m a - were placed by Charles V, in the nevf
palace he built at the Alhambra;
they were a Venus with a little Cupid
.by her íide, an Efculapius, a Bacchus
with a Satyr, repoíing on a íkin of
wine, ánd an Apollo with his lyre.
Thefe at Cártama, in their prelent
imperfeót. ítate, are ftill worthy the
attention of the curious ítatuary, for
their exadt and beautiful proportions,
and inimitable drapery of the robes;
the antiquary may here fee in per*
fection the faíhion of the Román
dreiTes; and nothing can raife our
ideas of the riches and íplendour of
this ancient town, mure than thefe
proofs of its having once poffefled
Dcfciptiún off u ch e x c en e nt artiílsi one of them is
Stafue ' the body of a young man, of the
natural fize^ from the navel down-
wafds,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 49
wards, naked to the middle of his B o o i c m -
thighs, with his gown covering his
legs in a graceful manner, and his
right foot appearing underneath; the
divine proportions of this ineítímable
piece of antiquity have not faved it
from the barbarity of a ruftic, who
has jammed it into the córner of the
wall of his houfe to keep off carts :
the naked ílatue of an athlete, with Second Suwc -
his right hand clinched and lifted up
in the attitude of going to ítrike,
is in like manner fet up in another
córner of a ftreet,
The trunk of a ftatue, with a mu- T w st?t«e,
nicipal robe, lies neglected in one of
the back ftreets of the town; and in
the yard of the apothecary of the
place is another, broken in two, of a
íize almoft twice as big as life; it is of
VOL. II, F; a womai*

|0 A J O U R N E Y P R G M
CÁRTAMA. a w o m a n jjj a fitting pofture; in the
FourtllStatue 'nape of its neck appears the focket,
whereon was placed the head ; the
íleeves of the robe are curioully ga-»
thered and confined by five or íix
ftuds on the outíide of the arms, and
a cord tied round its. waift; the feet
as well as the breafts are covered,
though the latter are moft naturally
to be diftinguiíhed by a gentle rife of
Fifth Statue. the gown; with this ftatue lies another
of the fame dimeníions, of a man;
by their magnitude, I judge them to
have been Heathen Deities; the Ro­
mans very frequently making their
gods of a fupernatural íize, in order
to infpire an higher idea of their
ftrength and power; in the fame
¡Sixth Statue. yard is likewife the figure of a Pri?
apus in bas relief.
Another

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 51
Another very noble monument of BooK Iir -
antiquity, extraóted from the above- ^¡Jk* oí e
mentioned temple, is a Corinthian Ap ° U °
pillar of red and white jafper, meafur-
ing inches diameter at the bale,
and twenty-one feet high, with its
capital entire of white marble; the
íhaft coníiíts only of two blocks, the
iower one 14 feet long; the Spániards
have ereéted it without the town, on
a riíing ground, and placed a crofs 011
its top; but either through ignorance
of the rules of architecture, or not
chufing to be at the expence, they
have fet it on the ground without a
pedeílal; fíat likewiíe on the ground,
like the grave -r ítone of a pauper,
they have laid the foliowing in-»
fcription :

A JOURNEY FR OSf
HEC-INTER'FRAGMENTA'
TEMPLI-DIIS-DICATI-IN'MVNr
CIPIO-CARTIMITANO-SVBTER
RANEA-PROPE-CHATOLICVN*
TEMPLVM-IN VENTA-AB-IPSO*
CARTIMITANO'POPVLO-
TRANSLATA-ET'COLOCATA-
EST-HIC-I752*
In the fquare near the foimtain
lies the üiaft of a column of red and
white marble, apparently companion
to the beforementioned; other blocks
of them I obferved in feveral places,
with pieces of capitals, carved frizes,
&c,
A curious hand of whité álabañer,
íhut as if it once held a wand or
ílick,

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 53
ítick, was thought worthy of being
fent to the court.
Zamorra, phyíician of this place,
in the year 1739, found, under fome
B o o K I I L
rubbiíh, the {tatué of a man, bearing sevcmhstatue.
pn his íhoulders a goat or lamb ; the
head of the animal was wanting.
Of the pederíais and infcriptions R
o P a .n I n -
fc.riptions at
exifting of this ancient town, four of Cartama>
them I judge to have been for cen-
turies placed in the walls of the
church and fountain of the fquare,
although Morales feems to have had
no knowledge of any other than the
large ftone of Junia Ruítica: the copy
of it he procured, and has publiíhed
it very inaccurately ; as it is the moft
diftinguiflied and circumftantial monument

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
riumerit of Cártama, I was raoft exact
in tranfcribing it, though no very
eafy taík, from the exceflive clofenefs
of the letter, which I have likewife
endeavoured to imitate*

JVNíM)f-K\ÍSTSCA-SÍ\aRD0Sf[RFtTyñíTfKÍN1MM-
MVNICíriO

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A . 57
In Engliíh, " This is the ílatue of
B o o K I I L
" Jimia Ruítica, perpetual high F l c a rum. ° f
" prieftefs in the municipium of
" Cártama, who rebuilt the public
pórticos, fallen to decay through
" age, gave the ground whereon the
" bath. is built, paid ofF the mort-
" g a g e 0 1 1 t n e pubüc revenue, erected
" in the forum a brazen image to
" Mars, with the pórticos round the
" bath, the fiíh-pond, and image of
" Cupid; all which fhe effected at
" her own expence, and confecrated
" with banquets; and public games
" íhe gave on the occafion: this
" ílatue of herfelf, as well as another
" to Caius Fabius Junianus, her fon,
" was placed by a decree of the
" fenate of Cártama. Junia Fabiana,
" daughter of Caius Fabius, at her
^ own expence, erecl:ed a ílatue to
" Caius

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
" Caius Fabius Fabianus, her huíband,
" and took care to dedícate it."
This ftone, which ís now placed at
the head of the fountain in the fquare,
is the only one that exprefles Car-
tama to have been a municipal town,
and gives us a very high idea of its
ancient grandeur; the clofenefs of the
chara6ler is partly to be accounted for
by the length of the infcription, and
not to be, therefore, precipitately de-
termined of the declining age of the
Román empire; the largenefs of the
pedeftal, which is now five feet high.
and two feet thick, not only proveí
the prefent fituation of the town on
its primitive fite (confirmed by the
temple of Apollo), but, what is more
remarkable, the fquare of Cártama
is

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 5<
is evidently on the exact fpot of their
ancient forum.
i i. . , Deícription ol
The public pórticos here men- Pubiic Pórticos.
tioned were a fort of galleries formed
of arches and colonades; the ufe of
which the Romans learnt from the
Greeks; they ferved for íhelter and
ornament before the principal doors
of the theatres, temples, and public
buildings; they were either covered,
or open ; the former confifted of long
galleries, fupported by marble pillars,
enriched and ornamented within with
ftatues and paintings, the íides were
open or clofed with windows, made
of the traníparent lapis fpecularis that
the Romans extracted from Spain,
and which Pliny tells us was as clear
aa glafs: " Lapis vitri modo tranf- Lap j $ ar^ cni "
6 " lucidus,
B o O K I I L

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
" lucidus, quo utuntur pro fpecu-
" laribus [f]. n
I remember the windows of the
cathedral church of Valentía are made
of this ftone, which is dug out of
quarries in that neighbourhood; the
Romans ufed to receive it from Sego-
briga in Celtiberia.
In the winter thefe pórticos were
open to the South, for the admiflion
of the mid-day fun; in fummer the
North avenues were expanded; here
the aldermen and chief men of the
city afTembled, and converfed together,
and herein their fenate or court was
frequently held.
[r] Lib xxxvi.
The

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 6l
The open public pórticos went ge- B o o K m ;
nerally round their fquares; under
their Ihelter the athletes or wreítlers
exercifed themfelves; and the people
held their markets, a cuftom ítill fol-
lowed all over Spain, where the fquare
and the market [s] are fynonymous
terms.
The public báths foríned the chief 1 Baths ü . bliC
luxury of the Romans: they intro-
duced them wherever they went; and
that Cártama, had one, is an incon-
teftable proof of the habitation of
Romans in it.
In Rome their number amounted
to 800; Agrippa alone bu.ilt 170 at
his own expence; the conliruólion of
them was magnificent, with fepara-
tions for the men and women; for
[J] In Spaniíh La Piafa.
their

62 A JOURNEY FROM
CÁRTAMA, their greater privacy, they had no
T R>nd' 1 I , T The
light but from the roof; round them
were fteps of marble to reft on, and
in an adjoining room refervoirs of
hot and cold water, for the convenient
tempering the bath according to the
différent conftitution or pieafure of
every one; they had alfo hot rooms,
with apartments for dryjng and
drefíing.
pifcina, or public canal, with
which the forum of Cártama was
adorned, was not only, as Morales con-
jectured, and its ñame imports, a pond
of fiflies, but a natural bath, wherein
the public had liberty of fwimming;
and thefe, being open to the rays of
the fun, are to this day in Spain
reckoned the moft wholefome waters,
" Si

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A . 63
" Si natare latius aut tepidius velis,
u in área pifcina eft [/}."
In the wall of the fountain, near
the ground, on the lide facing the
fquare, is a fmall ftone* which, like
the other of Junia Ruftica, has fo
often undergone the annual ceremony
of white-waíhing, as to be rendered
almoft illegible; this cuftom of liming
the walls, fo deftradive to the eyes,
the Spaniards retain from the Moors,
who waíh, with lime, not only their
houfes iníide and out, but even the
floors and terraffes*
[/] Plin. Epift. v. v¡.
VENERI'
Boox III.

64 A JOURNEY FROM
CÁRTAMA.
VENERI'AVG'
Second Sto»e
oí Cártama. LPORCI VS.QVIR.
VÍCTOR.CARTIMITA-
SVO-ET-SCRIBONIAE-
MARCIANAE.VXORIS-SVAE.
NOMINE-STATVAM'TES»
TAMENTO-PONMVSSIT'
HVIC-DONO'HERES-XX-
NON-DEDVXERVNT-
D- D*
" It was part of a pedeílal to an
*' image of Venus, ere&ed and de-
" dicated according to the teílament
" of Lucius Porcius Victor, a Román
" citizen of the Quirinal Tribe, and
" native of Cártama, in his n?me and
" in that of Scribonia Marciana his
" wife; from this gift his heir did
" not deduct the twentieth part."

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 65
In the walls of the church, and in B o O K m -
the fame fquare, are placed two other
ftones; one is in the South wall, almoft
buried under rubbiíh near the ground;
and, as the palTage is locked up, few
people can get a íight of it. Gruter
has publiíhed it, though very erro-
neoufly; he copied a manufcript of
the archbiíhop of Taragona.
L-PORCIO-QVIR.
SATVRNINO
PONTIF'QVI-PRO-HON"
tr-XX-N-D-HERES
REI-P-CARTIMITAN-LIB.
AMICI-FAC'CVRA .
L-PORCIVS'QyiR'SATVRNIN.
H-A'E-R.
The laft initials mean Ilonore Ac-
cepto Expenfas Remifit. This ftone
VOL. II. F had
Tliiwl Stone of
Cártama.

66 A J O U R N E Y FROM
C a r t a m a ' had been the bafe of a ílatue " to
" Lucius Porcius Saturninus, a Ro-
u man citizen of the Q/uirinal Tribe,
" and High Prieíl of the town.
u His heir Lucius Porcius Saturninus,
" accepting the honour of a ílatue
" from the Republic of Cártama, ex-
cufed their bearing the expence."
or" Cártama. The other pedeílal is in the córner
of tlie front wall of the church, and
a very large ílone; the cut of the
letters are of the íhape of thofe of
Juniá Ruílica.

TlüffllOí/tSAÉVCWTO-
fONTIFICI'MAXIMOTPvl&POTESTÁTE-
XIll-IMf^ll-COS-Vf-FÜN-VlS
TINWVSTICI'FM-ET-KVSTICVS-
D-Sf.DD-CVMSISCVMVEMTA
TF-CORRVMSET-IN-VICE-EIVS-"
VIL1A-RVSTICANA-NVRVS-N0VAM-
RESTITVIT.

GIBR ALTAR TO MALAGA.
" This ftatue was erected to T.
( í Claudius Caefar, Pontifex Maximus,
" &c. during his fifth confulíhip, by
" Cinnus Viftinus, fon of Ruíticus
" Decem-vir; whofe baíis being de-
" cayed, was repaired and fet up
u a^new by Vibia Rufticana, daughter
'" in law to Cinnus Viftinus."
The fifth confulíhip of Claudius
happened in the io t h year of his
reign, and in the year of grace 51 ;
to which sera, or very few years after,
we may reduce the ftone of Junia
Ruftica, being thereto authorifed by
Ihe fimilitude in character, bulk, and
even quality of thcfe two ftones, which
are both of a brown, coarfe texture;
and this being raifed by the family of
Ruftica, probably at the time wheii
F 3 Junia

A JOURNEY FROM
Junia Rúnica repairedand ornameiited
the forum.
The prolongation of the I in Caefari,
may be feen in itill more early rao-
numents; Father Flores quotes one
in the ia t h vol. of La Efpana Sa­
grada, of the emperor Tiberíus, whofe
age is generally blended with the
Auguílan.
The accurate and learned Don
Chriftoval Medina Conde has very
plainly and clearly overthrown the
opinión of Ambrollo Morales, in
proving that the goodnefs or viciouf-
nefs of the character of an infcrip-
tion does not determine the date of its
eredtion: of this the ílone of Claudius
before us is an indifputable in-
ftance :

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
flanee .[V]. In Rome perhaps, where
good artifts could never be wanting,
it may be fupported, and their ITK>
numents fpeak the trae ítate of the
polite arts in their time; not fo in the
provinces, where the form of the
letter may be baítardized by an ig-
norant or bad lapidary: here we fee
the dedication of a ílatue to an em-
peror, in the moít flouriíhing sera of
Cártama, miferably executed; and,
were it not furrounded by others of
the fineíl mould, and ílatues of the
moít delicate beauty, that proelaim
aloud its taíte and genius, what a
poor and unmerited idea íhould we
have formed of the rank it held in
ancient B'jetica!
[u] The chara&ers of this infeription give
but an imperfeét idea of the original copy I fur-
niílied the artift with; he has cut the letters by
much too fquare.
F 4 The

A J O U R N E Y FROM
The remaining infcriptions have, I
fancy, been found fince the time of
Morales; the four following are fmall,
about lo inches by 15, of whitemar-
ble, in an exceedingly good letter, and
two of them are at prefent on ,each
lide of the portal of a houfe in the
fame fquare; they fronted the pe­
deríais they onee belonged to; on the
left hand is
VENERI-AVG
RVSTICANA
C ARTIMITAN A'TESTA
MENTO-PONERE'IVSSIT
HVIC-DONO'HAERES-XX*
NON-DEDVXERVNT*
D'DD.
" Rufocana,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 73
" Ruíticana, native Of Cártama, B o O K ni >
" ordered in her teítament this irnage
" of the auguít goddefs "Venus to be
" erected; and her heirs did not de-
" duót the 20 TH from this gift, but
" dedicated it as íhe defired."
The ílone undemeath this be-
longed to the ítatue of a prívate
perfon, named " Marcus Decimius
" Proculus, a Román citizen, and per-
" petual high prieít, which the fenate
" of Cártama having decreed to be
" ereóted to him, he accepted the
" honour, but excufed them the
" expence."
Father Flores has tranfcribed this
infcription without the P-R> but that
it exifts the reader may be well
affured, as I paid it a third vifit, on
2 purpofe

74 A J . O . U R N E I F R O M
CÁRTAMA, purpofe to fatisfy myfelf: the ex-
preflion Pontifici, Primo, Perpetuo,
we have already feen in the ftone of
Junia Ruftica.
Sixth Stone of
Cártama. M'DECIMIO'
QVIR PROCVLO &
PONTIFICI $ PR-PERPETVO*
ORDO § CARTI M I T Á N VS*
S T A T V A M $ P O N E N D A M -
DECREVIT'
QVI $ HONORE ACCEPTO.
IMPENSAM $ REMISIT' §
The little hearts between the words
are Ungular, though it is not the only
fcription in Cártama thus adorned:
on the right fide of the door-way
are thefe two:
MARTI'

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 75
MARTI-AVC-
L-PORCIVS
QVIR-VICTOR-
CARTIMITAN-
TESTAMENTO
PONMVSSIT-
HVIC-DONO-
HAERES-XX-NON-
DEDVXIT-EPVLO-
D- D-
It was under a ftatue to the god
Mars, ereóted in puríuance to the will
of Lucius Porcius Viótor, whom we
have before leen paying the fame
devotion to Venus, and with the
fimilar circumílance of the heir not
dedu&ing the 20th as the law per-
mitted: this tax on thefe legacies
feems, according to the letter of the
infcriptiün
BOOK NI.
Scventh Stone
of Cártama.

j6 A JÓÜRÑEY FROM
C a r t a m a: infcription before us, to have been
inftituted with the inteñtion to defray
the executor's expence, occafioned by
the banquet, álways givén to the al-
dermen of the City at the ceremony
of dedicating the ftatue; if he chofe
to pay it out Of his pocket, he had a
right to commemorate his generoíity
in the infcription.
^SJr VIBIAE-L-F $
TVRRINAE- §
SACERDOTÁÉ
PERPÉTVAE

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
We have here the infcription of
another íiatue, erected by the ma-»
giítrates of Cártama, to a perpe^r
tuaí hjgh prieftefs caUed Vibia Tur»
riña, daughter of Lucius, who, having
accepted the honouj, remitted the
expence.
At the córner of another houfe of
the fquare, is a ftone much defaced,
and whofe fignification feems very
obfcure.
L'IVNIO'GAL'MALETINO* ^cínam"! ° f
EQVITI-ROMANO-EX-CIVI
TATE-CARTIMITANO-PRIMO*
FACTO'QVAM-AMICPVIVO'
REMISS A'EMPENSA»
V-A-M-
B o O K I I L

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
" It has been the bafe of a ftatue
" raifed to Lucius Junius Maletinus,
" of the Galerian tribe, a Román
" knight, and the firft that ever had
" that honour in the city of Car-
" tama; which ftatue his friends,
" excuíing him the expence, with a
" willing mind, ordered to be placed
" for him during his life-timeSo
far of this infcription was legible to
me: Don Chriftoval Conde, íhewed
me a manufcript copy that did not
fatisfy me, and which cuts oíF the
TO in fa¿to, and joins it to the next
w r ord, which he fuppofes to be GAM,
judging that this knight had left his
toga to the friend who eredted this
ftatue, out of gratitude. The lime,
w r ith which the letters havQ been fo
often filled up, has ijicorporated itfelf
in their cavities and filled them up.
At

DECIMIA-
DEC1MIT-
PROCVLA
MATER.RVTICI

GIBRALTARTO MALAGA* Ul
At the Weft end of the town is a BooK ni -
very beautiful bafe of a ítatue of ItcltllZ
one entire block of white marble,
about four feet high, erected to De-
cimia Procula, daughter of Decimus,
and mother to Ruticus; it now ferves
as the pedeftal to a crofs.
Cártama feems, from its ñame, to Et ^ mo1 °^ of
' ' Cártama,
have been of punic origin, the word
Cartha, in the Hebrew, íignifying
new city; it was íubjec"t to the chan-
cery of Ecija. The flourifhing ftate of
this ancient town is abundantly fliewn
in the fuperb monuments, that all-
confuming time and barbarous fue-
ceeding ages have permitted to reach
us: they proclaim it a Román muni-
cipium, with temples, pórticos, baths,
pifeinae, forum, and all the appen-
dances of a capital city. The ñones of
VOL. II. G its

, A' J O Ü R N E Í F R O M
CÁRTAMA. j t s military way are not yet all re­
moved ; and a ílately infcription ftill
exifts, to inform pofterity, that the
emperor Adrián repaired it at his
own expence.
R iieTTn F cTri The ñames and families comme-
iami " morated on thefe ftones are,
Lucius PORCIUS VÍCTOR.
LUCIUS PORCIUS SATURNINUS, both
Román citizens of the Quirine tribe,
and of a confular family.
Lucius JUNIUS MALETINUS, a Ro­
mán knight.
CINNA VISTINÜS.
MARCUS

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A .
MARCUS DECIMIUS PROCULUS.——
This was a moft illuítrious family,
radicated and fpread ail over the pro-
vince; here we find it exerciíing the
high prieíthood : it appears on
ílones of Acinipo and Nefcania, and
we íhall in Malaga fee it raifed to the
fupreme dignity of proconful.
• The family of the RUTICI and
RUSTICANI are thrice mentioned; the
magnificent works and donations of
Junia Rutica, and her being high
prieítefs, . muft have made her me-
mory refpe¿table at Cártama; at Sin-
gilis this family was likewife ef-
tabliíhed.
VIBIA TURRINA alfo exercifed the
©íRce of high prieítefs: the Vibii
G 2 enjoyed

84 A j O Ü R N É Y f R O Sí
C a r t a m a - enjoyed honourable dignities in the
republicks of Carteia and Barbefola.
Coíns found ac j^t Cártama were found coins of
Cártama.
all the emperors from Julius Casfar
to Vefpaíian and lower down, and a
Gothic gold medal of Sifenando, who
lived inthe year 636: at theirruption
of the Mahometans into Spain, during
the fucceeding century, Cartama was
probably deftroyed, as they ferved
many other towns for want of men
to people them; they afterwards re-
built it on the fame fpot, as well as
the caftle on the fummit of the hill;
with the ñones of which the Spa-
niards have erected,juft under its walls,
fmallbutrich fanctuary of theBleffeda
S rhfvií|in? f 'Virgin; the afcenttoit is veryfteep and
tirefome, but well récompenfed by a
noble profpect of the Hoya de Malaga.
When

GIB R ALT AR t© MALAGA. 85
When one reflects on the anciént Boc " c - IIL
fplendour of Cártama, and of num- ^¡T^deM
i 1 r 1 - , 1 1 - 1 Government
berleís other tcwns in Andalucía, dur- cf the R 0,
mans,
ing the exiftence of the Román em-
pire, and beholds them now poor in-
íignificant villages, full of poverty and
the baieft ignorance, it leads us natu-
rally into an enquiry after the caufes
of fo uní veri al a decay in the fame
towns and territories; this again opens
to us a fcene worthy the admiration
and praife of all fucceeding ages, and
proves the wifdom and found policy
of the Román government, who, con-
tenting themfelves with a modérate
ufe of their power, inftead of op-
prefling, raifed the cities they con-
quered to a ftate of greater liberty and
fecurity than they e ver enjoyed before. view of it,
Each city was ereóted into a common-
wealth, independant in a manner of
Q 3 the

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
the reft of the province, fubjec~t to its
own laws, and governed by a fort of
Senate, compeled of certain of the
principal inhabitants called Decuriales
or Decuriones, headed by two ftiled
Duumviri, refembling the confuís of
Ilome,
The whole body of magiftrates and
people, as we have repeatedly in-
ítanced, were ftyled ORDO-POPVLVSQVE-
and SPLENDIDISS-PRDO. not only each
province, but numerous towns had
the privilege of a mint, the higheft
aft of fovereignty, and in imitation of
the s- c- of Rome ftampt on their
nioney D- D- Decreto Decurionum.
This Tenate, or court of aldermen,
was held in fuch veneration, and fo
much reípect was paid to it, that they
prended

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 8^
preíided on a bench apart in all pub- B o O K m *
lie acts of religión; and, at the games
of the Circus, to be permitted to íit
among them was an honour thought
worthy to be recorded on marble to
pofterity, in an infcription dug up at
Montoro, and publiíhed by Morales
in his Antiquities.
Each city had a judge chofen out of
the aldermen called Praefectus Juri-
dicus, as we learn from a ftone of
Cadix, publiíhed likewife by Morales;
befides which court of juftice, there
were four feveral chanceries ftiled
Conventús Juridici, eftabliíhed in the
province of Andalucia, at Cadix, Ecija,
.Cordova, and Seville ; over the whole
prended a Román proconful, of which
there were three in Spain, for the
provinces bf Ba?tica, Tarragona, and
G 4 Luñtania;

A JOURNEY FROM
Lüfitania; if thefe governórs com-
mitted any a&s of oppreflion,- each
town had a free appeal to Rome, and
á liberty to accufe and arraign them
before the people; many inftances of
which. we meet with in the Román
hiftóry.
All thefe privileges were enjoyed
by the towns, in a full fecurity of
being defended and proteáted in them
from the infults and encroachments
of their neighbours by the whole
power of Rome; to whom they were
in a particular manner allied, and in-
corporated by the honour of being
either a Municipium, Fcederati, or
Colonia Populi Romani; each par­
ticular city was a Rome in miniature,
ib many natural or adopted daughters
cheriíhed and taken care of by their
mother:

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 89
mother: the utter deífruótion of the E o o K m -
Garthaginian empire was brought
upon that people for having attacked
and ruined the city of Saguntum in
alliance with the Romans.
By this wife conduót, from which
they never varied, the Romans fecured
their conqueíts; and the Spaniards, by
an happy experience of the mildnefs
of their government, had never a wiíh
to íhake it off, but preferved their
allegiance without garrifons and troops,
a burthen both to themfelves and their
mafters; on the contrary, they often
fent bodies of men to reinforce the
arañes of Rome, whom they looked
upon as their common parent.
Another privilege of thefe towns°£¿ h ^Sa"
was that of putting up ftatues, not m s tatue$ *
3 o n l Y

A J O U R N E Í FROM
only to the emperors and their wiyes,
but to the proconfuls of the province,
their Duumviri and chief priefts, or
any benefactors to their town, nay
prívate citizens could erect them to
their fathers, wives, and children, or
order them by their wills, though the
leave of the court of aldermen was
always abfolutely neceíTary, and they
alone could afíign the fpot in the
forum where they were to be put;
generálly for the greater honour the
government paffed a decree for their
erection, and the perfons bore the
expence.
This cuftom, in aftertimes fo pro-
ftituted, was originally inftituted by
the Romans as a laudable honour due
to the memory of great men, who
had deferved well of their citizens,
. Pliny the younger has very beautifully
•explained

GI B R ALTAR TO MALAGA.
explained the high fenfe that nation j
had of it, fpeaking of a ñatue Trajan
ordered to be erected to the memory
of young Cottius, which he calis pro-
longing his íhort and narrow fpan of
lite to immortality: " for thefe re-
" wards, fays he, afíigned to the
" young, will incite our youth to
good purfuits, when they bear in
" view the joys they will reap by
" their living, and the glorious re-
" compence that awaits them dead;
" it will be an endlefs fatisfaótion to
'" me, often to gaze on his image, t@
" make a ftand under it, and to walk
*' beíide it; for if the figures of the
•" dead at home mitígate our forrow,
" how much more thofe that 4o not
" only reprefent to us in the moíl
" confpicuous place their form ánd
" vifa^e,but their honour and glory!"
" Quo

A JOÚRNEY FROM
" Quo quídam honore, quantum
" ego interpretor, non modo defuncü
" memorias, et dolori patris, verum
" etiam exemplo profpeclum eft;
" acuent ad bonas artes juventutem
" adolefcentibus, quoque (digni funt
" modo) tanta prsemia conftituta :
" acuent principes viros ad liberos
" fufcipiendos, 8c gaudia ex fuper-
" ítitibus, 8c ex amiflis tam gloriofa
" folatia. Erit ergo pergratum mihi
" hanc efrigiem ejus fubinde intueri,
" fubinde refpicere, fub hac con-
" íiítere, prseter hanc commeare. Et
" enim fi defun£lorum imagines domi
" pofitse dolorem noftrum levant,
" quanto magis ese- quibus in cele-
" berrimo loco, non modo fpecies et
" vultus illorum, fed honor etiam et
" gloria refertur [x]!"
[x] Plin. lib. ii. ep. 7.
The

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
The moít glorious trophies, ever
erected to the memory of fuperlative
merit, were the temples w r hich the
inhabitants of Caítulo (now Cazlona
above Cordova) bnilt in honour of
the two Scipios Gneius and Publius,
who, after having endeared them-
felves to the Spaniards by the mild-
nefs and equity of their govenlment,
loít their lives near OfTuna in the
celebrated battle with the Carthagi-
nians the year 210 before Chriít; the
dedication of one of thefe temples was
found and copied by Cyriaco An-
conitano.

94 A JOURNEY FROM
GN.ET-PVBLIO-SCIPIONIB'ET.PATRI
Monument of
Gneius and CI A-CQRNELIORVM-GÉNTE'COMMV
Pub. Scipio. '
NI.PATRIAE-IMPENSA'CASTVLONEN
SES.BENEFICIORVM.MEMORES-ARAS
ET-TEMPLA'AD-XX-PEDES-DIVISA.
EREXERE.
" The people of Caílulo, at their
" joint expence, raifed thefe altars
" and temples , 20 feet afunder to
" Gneius and Publius Scipio, of the
Patrician order of the Cornelian
" family, in grateful remembrance of
" benefits received."
The circumftance of all the in-
habitants univerfally contributing to
the charge of the buildings, as all
equally concerned in their lofs, and
the^ expreífion beneficiorum memores,
conveys

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. "95
conveys an idea of the higheft en-
comium, at a time when flattery could
have no place.
O happy Spaniards! to have been
bleft with fuc:h good, fuch virtuous
and diíinterefted governors, who fpent
and facrificed their lives for their
fafety and protección ! And thrice
happy Romans! who governed and
died for a people fo feníible of, and
grateful to, all their acts of bene-
volence and virtue! A more noble
B o O K I 1 L
monument exifts not in the annals . ,
of time.
Though all thefe ílatues have been G- ufe 0f
thefe Moma
long íince overthrown and deílroyed mer,ts-
by the fuperftition of fucceeding ages,
yet their bafes are ílill to be found
in great plenty all over Spain; the ufe
of

A JOURNEY FROM
A- of theny is very great in clearing up
points of hiftory* and afcertaining the
iituation and orthography of many
towns that could not otherwife he
known, bringing us to the knowledge
of others, whofe ñame and hiftory
ancient writers have not left us the
leaít memorials of, and even in cor-
recting the works of the Greek and
Latin geographers, that, by length of
time, have become vitiated and adul-
terated.
Modern Cártama is a poor incon-
íiderable village; its famous forum,
once ornamented with pórticos, public
baths, fifli-ponds, and ílatues of brafs
to their gods and benefaclors, is now
a defpicable place, without fliape, or-
nament, or fpace, with no piazzas to
íhade you from the fun, and inítead of
a fumptuous

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
mmptuous temple, adorned with ítate-
ly columns, ítand the rude walls of
a plain couiitry church, fanílified in-
deed by the holy ñame of Chrift, and
in that refpeót preferable to all the
brilliancy of Paganiñru
VGL. XI. H C H A P

93 A JOURNEY F ROM
ALORA. C H A P T E R III.
A L O R A .
Hoy iaga M a " JÍ^OM Cártama the Hoya de Ma­
laga follows the cotirfe of the
mountains fouthwards to the fea two
leagues and an half further at Cape
Molinos; to the North the Hoya is
bounded by the Sierra de Alora, where
Alora itfelf fits on the fummit of a
hill: this town is ancient, and was,
by the Romans, called lluro.
Alora. Antonio Auguftin, in his dialogues,
ranks lluro among the municipal
towns of this pfovince. Gruter co-
pied

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 99
pied the two following infcriptions at B o O K m -
Alora,'now not to be found. " The
" firíl has beerí the dedication of a
" ftatue to the emperor Domitian,
" by Lucius Munius Aurelianus; and
" another Duum-vir of the city, which
" was ere¿led at the public expence."
The fecond lay then at the bottom o£
the hill, whereon the town ftands,
and is only of fervice in comme-
morating the perfons therein men-
tioned.
ÍMP-DdMlTIANO
CAESARI
AVG-GERMANICO
L-MVNIVS-QVIR'
AVRELIANVS
TI-COR .
ÍI-VIR'CONSTITVTI
D S-PD-D-
• Firft Stone of
Alora.

100 A JOURNEY FROM
ALORA.
Second Stone
of Alora.
. . . STATVAM-QVAM
TESTAMENTO'SVO*
C-FABIVS'VIBIANVS»
II-VIR-FIERMVSSIT-
VIBIAE'LVCANAE-MATRI'
FABIA-FIRMA'HERES.
DEDICAVIT*
Caius Fabius Vibiarms, Duum-vir
of lluro, ordered, by hís will, this
ftatue to be erefited to Vibia Lucana,
his mother, which his heir Fábia
Firma dedicated.
A notable memorial of the Yibían
family, eftabliíhed in lluro, is the bafe
of a marble ftatue, " erected at Rome
5 « in

V
GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
" in the year of our Lord 204, by
" Marcus Vibius Maternus, who Was
" a native of lluro, and ferved in the
" Román army as a military can-
" didate for the command of it, to
" Lucius Fabius Septiminus Cilo,
" who had enjoyed the office of prae-
" tor of the city ; that of cenfor fhre
" times; and confuí twice." The
method this Spaniard took to have 1
his fervices and preteníions engraved
on marble in the public forum, where
thofe who had the power to promote
him could not fail to fee and read
it daily, is certainly ingenious.

1 0 2 A JOUR. N E Y F R O M
ALORA.
Stone at
Jiorae.
L-FABIO-M-F'
GALER-SEPTIMINQ
CILONI-PRAEF-VRB'
C-VCOS-II-
MVIBIVS-MATERNVS
ILVRENSIS-AMILICIIS"
CANDITATVS-EIVS*
fcjjeira de Ab> Beneath Alora lies Gafapalma ; and
daUzis.
further eaftward Burgo, Pifaro, La
Jonquera, and feveral other ímall
tpwns, all under the Sierra de Abda---
lazis. Henceforward the hills are called
La Sierra de Antiquera, joining the
mountains of Malaga.
i e íoví'de°Ma! Eaftward to Malaga the Hoya
gi ' widens three long leagues, all parts of
it are exceedinglyfruitful,and produce
excellent

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. IO
excellent wheat [#], their chief and
moíl valuable produce: an example of
its fertility we read of in the chronicle
of Don Juan II, of Caílille, who, in
an excuríion againft the Moors, en-
On
B o o K I I L
tered this valley in 1407, and carriedExampieof
away 12,000 íheep and 7,000 oxen.
[xj The corn in Spain is trodden out of the
ear by mures, in the very field it grows in, on a
circular fpot called by the Spaniards Era. This
cuítotn, univerfal in hot climates, is very ancient,
and has been commemorated by Homer :
Thick beílrown, lies Ceres' facred íloor,
Where round and round with never-wearied pain,
The trampling íteers beat out th' unnumber'd
grain, Pope's Iliad, lib. xx.
The Spaniards plow the ground with oxen,
who have the yoke fixed upon their horns, to
which it is faítened by cords; contrary to the
univerfal cuftom of other nations, who drive
their oxen with a collar.

104 A JO'URNEY FRO'M
m
IWDKY ° n ^ r o a d f r o r a Marvella to
R¡^^ MÍIÍ. Munda are here and there -to be diftaryRoad.
c o v e r € ( ¡j frggments of a Román mili-
tary way, as likewife from Munda to
Cártama; going out of which town
towards Malaga it is fo entire as to be
nafíáble, were it not for many holes
funk between the ponderous ítones,
by time, and the violent rains, though
eafy to be repaired; on viewing it I
could not but reflect on the unac-
countable lazinefs of the preíent in-
habitants of Cártama, who daily travel
on each íide of this road all the
wjnter, they and their beafts up to
their middle in a deep clay, and have
not induftry to repair it.
The fame military way, about a
mile Eaft of the river of Malaga,
crofTes another fmaller one, called El
Rio

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. J05
Rio de Campanillas, over which ftill
B p 0 K I I L
, . . n_ • • . i_ _ • RuinsofaRo»
hang in majemc ruins, the remams nunBñdge.
of two arches of a Román bridge.
The river of Malaga is large, and Rive í¿. Ma "
not fordable; its banks are inhabited
by numerous tribes of the beautiful
Aveluco [y], whofe brilliant plumage,
íhining with yellow, blue, and green
tints, are not to be equalled by any
of the feathered tribe in Europe: thefe
birds are of the íize of a large thruíh,
and are only to A be met with in this
province.
On each íide of the river of Ma-stone of Marcus
Aurehus.
laga are great ruins lying on the
military way; araong them was found
[y] In Edwards and Brookes may be found
accurate defcriptions of this bird.
a de-

106 A JOURNEY FROM
MI RÓID RY a dedication to the emperor Marcus
~ Aurelius, erected in his fecond con­
fulíhip; but the ñame of the town
was quite unintelligible. I faw a copy
of it in the hands of Don Chriftoval
Conde.
Müe stone of This road we have above feen re-
Malaga.
paired by the emperor Hadrian, and
by a mile ftone (exifting at prefent in
the plaquela of Juan Torres, at Ma­
laga, on oñe íide of the governor's
houfe) we learn that the fame attention
was paid to it in the days of Caracaíla
This ftone has been very ill treated,
and beíides is difricult to be read, being
of a mixt coarfe grey marble, fough
and unpoliíhed, fuch as the Romans
always nlade ufe of, very wifely fore-
feeing they would be the leaft ex-
pofed to be removed and carried away.
It

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
It is fo placed in the wall, that the
wheels of his excellency's coach, every ]
time it is ufed, unavoidably grate
againít it. The diameter of this ítone
is 18 inches; and it is at prefent about
four feet out of the ground, fo that
we may imagine it, originally, to have
been at leaft íix feet high [z].
This ítone is remarkable for having
fo long a defcent of the emperors,
and their ñames and titles fo plain
and at full length : even in Morales'
time it was not legible to the end;
the latter part of it only, which
begins at Marcus Aurelius Antoninus,
was remitted to him 200 years ago;
and, as the tranfcriber omitted the
emperor's pedigree, which he igno-
rantly imagined was of no ufe, Morales,
as he well might, made the miftake
[z] It is round, like our modern mile-ítones.
of

IOS A JOURNEY FROM
^Eolí" °^ q u o t m g k the Ufe of Mareus,
Aurelius, fuccefíbr of Antonirjus Pius,
inftead of Caracalla, fon of Severus,
to whom it undoubtedly belongs, and
who aíFeeted the fame ñames and
titles.
i.s Date. ^ e fourth confulíhip of Caracalla,
the date of this ftone, was in the year
of our Lord 213, which was likewife
the fourth year of his reign.

IMP.-CESAR
DIVI'SEVRI-PII-FILIVS
DIVI'MARCI-ANTONINI'
NEPOS-DIVI'ANTONINI«
PRONEPOS-DIVI'AEL'
HADRIANI-ABNE.
POS'DIVI.TRAIANI»
PARTH«ET-DIVI-NERVAE
ADNEPOS-M-AVRELIVS
ANTONINVS
PIVS-FELIX'AVG'PARTHICVS
MAXIMVS-GERMANICVS
MAXIMVS-BRITANICVS
MAX«PONTIFEX«MAX-TRIB
POT'XViriMP'IIII'COS-IIII*
RESTITVIT»
N. B. The abreviated manner of writing Sevri, inftead of Severi,
in the fecond line, is conformable to the originrd,
wherein the s was probably joined to the V thus IE,
though not now perceivable.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
N E S C A N- I A.
On the other íide of the Sierra de
Abdalazis, and two leagues to the Weft
of Antiquera, is a very fmall village
called El Valle, built on the ruins of
Nefcania, a Román Municipium, and
whoTe erection was owing to the con-
courfe of people in the time of Philip
II, in 1547, frequenting a medicinal
fountain, celehrated anciently for its
fovereign property in diííblving the
ítone and gravel. Morales has quoted
the infcription of an altar, put up by
Lucius Pofthumius Satulius, in com-
pliance with a vow he had made, and
doubtlefs in gratitude for the benefit
he had received from drinking the
wáters of this fountain, which he calis
divine.
FQNTI»

II4
NESCANIA.
by thefe
difeafe.
A JOURNEY FROM
waters, from a dángerous
^tfeST M ARCVS'CORNELIVS'OPTATVS.
ANCIPITI.MÓRBO-RECREATVS»
VOTVM.
A-L-S»
Nefcania feems, from the infcrip-
tions that have reached us, to have
been a flouriíhing city. Father Flo­
res, in the 12 t h vol. of his EfpáYia
Sagrada, quotes a very long one, that
had been the bafe of a ftatue erected
to " Caius Marius Scipio, native of
" Nefcania, by a decree of the fenate
*' of Nefcania, who was excufed the
" expence of raiíing it by Fabia Re^
" ftituta, his mother, who, on oc-
" cafion of the dedication, gave ban-
#< quets to the aldermen. and their
" ibns,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. JI5
'{ fons, to the citizens, inhabi-
f tants, &c."
C-MARIO-QVIR'SCIP'NES Third Stoneof
' Nefcania,
CAN-F-ORDO'NESCAN
STATVAM'IVSSIT-CIVDE.
CRE'FABIA-RESTITVTA.
x. MAT-HON'ACCEP'IM
PEN-REMIS-EPVLO-DATO»
DECVRION-ET'FILIIS*
EORVM-NESCANIEN.
SINGVi'X-BINOS.CIVI
BVS-ATQVE-INCOLIS'
ITEM-SERV'STATIO'
NARIIS-SLNGVLIS.X.
SINGVLOS'DEDICA
VIT.
In
B ó 0 1 c I I L

IT6 A JOURNEY FROM
N e s c a w i a - In this ftone there is only mention
of ORDO-NESCAN- but in the above-
mentioned work of Cabrera, we learn,
that it enjoyed the privileges and ho-
nour of being a Municipium.
Fourth S t p n e G E N I 0 > M V N I C I p T . N E S C A N ] [ E N S I S .
oí Nckama.
L-POSTHVMVS-STILICON-NESCANIENSIS
SIGNVM-AEREVM'PECVNIA'SVA'EX*
HS 00 N-FIERI.ET'NESCANIAE-IN.
FORO-PONI IVSSIT.QyOD-DONVM.
VT-CONSVMARI'POSSET.M-COR
NELIVS-NIGER-NESC.H EIVS-AD
IECTIS. . . DE-SVO-AD.IMPENSAS.
OPERIS-L-H-S'P-C-S-N'CVM-ALIIS.
DEDICAVIT*
" Lucius Pofthumius Stilico, native
" of Nefcania, ordered, in his will, a
" thoufand fefterces towards erecting
" a brazen image to the Guardian
" Genius

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
" Genius of Nefcania, to be placed
" in the public fquare; and Marcus
" Cornelius Niger, his heir, towards
" completing this gift, gave a fur-
" ther fum of fifty fefterces, out
" of his own rnoney, towards the
expence of the work, and dedi-
« pating the image, &c."
The fame author has likewife the
following infcriptions; all which were
unknown to Morales, and till now
unpubliíhed.
" The firft is the dedication to a
" ftatue erected by Marcus Cornelius
" Proculus, pontifex of the emperors,
" to the famous Livia, wife of Au*
" guftus, therein ftyled Julia the
" adopted daughter of Julius Ceefar,
s< mother of Tiberius and Drufus
I 3 " Gemía-

A J0URNEY FROM
^ Germadicus; the former named the
" Prince and Confervator óf the
" World; the other, its Life arid
« Soul."
The next is the bafe of a ftattle
erected by the inhabitants of Nef­
cania to the emperor Trajan during
his lixth confuíate, which happened
i,n the year of grace 112.
IVLIAE-

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. ,119
IVLIAE'AVG*
DIVI-F-MATRI.
tI'CAESARIS-AVG*
PRINCIPIS-ET-CONSERVA
TORIS-ET-DRVSI-GERMA
JSTICI-GENIALIS-ORBIS.
MARCVS-CORNELIVS-PRO
PVLVS PONTIFEX-CAESARVM*
l 4 ÍMP.
BOOK III.
Fifth Stoneof
Nefcania.

I20 A J O U R N E Y FROM
NESOANIA.
Sixth Stone of
Nefcania. •
JMPCAESAR*
PIVI-NERVAE-F^
NERVAE-TRAIANO*
AVG-GER'DACICO*
PONT-NAX-TRIB'
POT-XIII-IMP-VI-COS.
VI-P'P'OPTIMO-MAX-
IMO-QVE'PRJNCIPI*
NESGAN IENSE§*

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 121
This pedeftal ftands now before
the door of the church, and fupports
a ftone crofs. The two following
were copied by Gruter.
P'MAGNIO-OcF.QVIR.RVFO.
MAGONIANO'TR-MIL-IIII*
PROC-AVG-XX-ET-TR-PERPE*
TVO-HISPANIAE-BAETICAE'
AD-VAL'VEGET'ITEM'PROC»
AVG-PROVIN-BAET-AC-DVCEN.
ACIAE-P-LEG.AMICO'OPTIMO*
ET.BENE-PROVINCIAE-SEMPER»
MERITO-D-D-
This ftone is of valué to thofe who^H
Pubhus Mag-
attempt to write the hiftory of PortS"t s ivf0 u /M'a.
Mahon, having been erected to the
memory of a native of that town,
" who had been military tribune four
?' times, and twenty-three times pro-
" curator
Boolc I I L
S 7MT

I2

GIBRALTAR TÓ MALAGA.
L'CALPVRNIO-QVIRINO'ORDO'NESC.
BoOK III.
Eighth Stone
STATVAM'PVBLIC-DECREVIT-L'CALPVR. ot Nefcania.
NIVS'MACER-PATER-HONORE-ACCEPTQ.
IMPENSAM.REMISIT»
The next ftone does immortal N¿ 1¿|a^Jerf honour to the people of Nefcania, the°m-
who, in gratitude for benefits re- loíophcr '
ceived, raifed a ftatue to Lueius An-
naeus Séneca, that celebrated heathen
philofopher, whofe works will be
efteemed and ftudied while a fenfe
of rectitude and morality remains in
the world. His memory is held in
fuch veneration in Spain, his native
country, that at Cordova, where he
was born and pafFed his firft years;
they ftill cali a particular tenement La T s h e^° uf =t of
Cafa de Séneca; which houfe the firft Cordova -
Marquis of Pliego, Don Pedro Her­
nández

124 A JOURNEY FROM
N e s c a n i a - nandez de Cordova, in the year 1500
purchafed, and made thereof a prefent
to the father of Ambroíio Morales, with
the compliment, that the dwelling of
fo wife a man ought not to be inha-
bited but by a perfon equally learned.
I was íhewn the houfe [a] in 1758;
it is íituated in the higheít and moít
pleafant part of the city, but has re-
ceived fo many repairs, that I much
doubt whether a ítone of its ancient
fabric remains.
[#] This houfe rauft have been buik by forne
pf the defcendants of Séneca; as in his days, and
long after, the oíd town (founded by the Román
prator Marcellus in the year of Rome 169) was
liill ílanding: it was fituated on a hill about a
league to the North of Modern Cordova. Ano­
ther memorial of Séneca is at a fmall farm near
one of the gates of Cordova, which bears the
ñame of El La^ar. de Seyeca.
Morales;

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 125
Morales has aííembled every me- B o o K IIr -
nument he could collecT:, wherein
there was mention of this family ;
but of Séneca himfelf he was not fo
happy as to meet any infcription.
This is the firft that has ever been
publiíhed: I copied it from the ma*
nufcript of Cabrera, which is kept in
the archives of his convent at An­
tiquera. We muft fix the date of this
ftone fome time before the year 66, itsDate.
when Séneca fuffered death.
LVCIO»
ANNEO-SENECAE*
OB-BENEFICIA*
NESCANIENSES-
F* C»
In Alora, this family was alio ra-
dicated, as we have feen by a ftone of
that

Tenth Stone
of Nefcania.
, A JOURNEY FROJ4
NE8CAKIA. that town. The laft infcription I
íhall quote of Nefcania, and whjch
Was never before publiíhed, is the
dedication of an altar to the divinity
of the emperors, which was placed
in the public forum, at the expence
of Publius Forturiatus Liberii^s, native
of Nefcania.
NVMINI-DIVORVM-
AVGG.
PVBLIVS-FORTVNATVS*
LIBERIVS-M-F-NESCA'
ARAM-SOLO-PVB»
S-P'D'D.D-
In a manufcript copy of this infcrip-
tion, íhewn me by the Canon Conde,
it is Caius Publicius Fortunatus.
ANTI-

I OIBRALTARTO MALAGA. t%%
i B O O K III.
a n t i q u e r a . " *
V.Two miles further to the Eaftward Val \u°e f r£ nti -
lies the city of Antiquera [#], atthe foot
M the mountains, and feven leagues
Noxth-Weft of-Malaga; the town is
very large, well built, and inhabited
by 8,000 families; among them are
iriany noble houfes. The country
about it is very fruitful, confifting of
a vale commencing beyond Nefcania,
and extending as far as the eye can
reach towards the North: through it
lies the road to Madrid.
The pleafant river Genil (the an- River GeuiI -
cient Singilis) enters the valley at La
f¿] In les Delices d'Efpagne is a very exaft
view of Antiquera, which I correñed with the
addition of the Great Church, fince ereéted there
in the middle of the town,
A Pena

128 A JOURNEY FROM
ANTQWERA. peri'a de los Enamorados [c], three
miles Eaír. of Antiquera; which city
it feems to íhun, turning to the North,
and haftening to wafli the walls of
Erija; an inconíiderable ílream, how-
ever, runs through the town, and
ferves to work the corn-miíls.
I was three times at Antiquera, in
the years 1758, 1761, and 1771:
at the .fecond "viíit I went to th(
Sait Lakes. famous falt lakes, which lie on tht
road to Ronda; they are full of an
incredible number of wild ducks.
[f] The Pena de los Enamorados is a very
íleep rock, famous for the cataítrophe of two
unfortunate lovers: a ChriíHan captive fugitive
from Granada, and a Mooriíh girl ; being purfued
and furrounded, vhey afcended this rock, and,
finding no poíhbility of efcaping, threw them-
felves, embraced in each other's arms, dovvn the,
precipice, and periflied.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. I2Í9
The falt made from this water (that B o O K m -
is 30 miles diílant from the fea) is
on the king's account.
Antiquera muft have been a noted^S^ f
town in antiquity, fince we find it in
the itinerary of Antoninus, who
ftopped there in preference to Nef­
cania or Singilis: its ñame was An-
tikaria, as may be proved from the J t s an< ; ;en F
' J r Ñame Anafollowing
irífcriptions:
k m i' GENIÓ-MVNICIPÍ*
ANTIK-IVLIA-M-F'
CORNELIA* MATERNA
MATER'MA'CORNE
LIANAE-TESTAMEN.
TO-PON-IVSSIT-
" Julia
Firft Stone of
Antújuera.

13° A JOURNEY n O M
¿ 1 , T '

GIBR ALTAR TO MALAGA. 131
QVINTI AE.GALLIAE*
EOOK II.
Third Stoneof
ANTIK'HOSPITALIS-F* Antiquera,
P'QVINT'HOSPITALIS*
D'P'S'D'D*
In the church of San Juan is the
bafe pf a ílatue ereóled by Lucius
Porcius Sabelius [_d\ Duum-vir of the
city, to the emperor Vefpaíian, during
his 8th confiilfhip, which fixes the
date of this ílone to the year 77.
The ñame of the town is not men-
tioned, therefore as all the infcriptions
of Nefcania and Singilis were brought
at difFerent times to Antiquera, it is
[d\ \ have lately received from a learned correfpondent
in Spain, which carne not to hand in
time to be inferted in its place, [vide Book II. p.
258.] a copy of a valuable dedication infcription
once over a Temple of Neprune at Suel, wherein
that town is plainly named a Román Municipium.
NEPTVNO'AVG'
SACRVM"
J/IVNIVS'PVTEOLANVS*
Vl'VIR'AVGVSTALIS'IN.
MVNICIPIO'SVELITANO*
D'TVPRIMVS'ETTERPETVVS*
OMNIBVS'HONORIBVS'QVOS.
LIBERTI Nl'GERERE'POTYERVNT*
HC> ÑOR A T V S 1 E P VI. O* D A TO * .D * S" P'
V0L.II.K2 i ni-

l^Z A JOURNEY FROM
ANTIQUERA. ímpoínble to determine, and perhaps
of no great importance, to which of
them it originally belonged.
Fourth Ston= iMP'CAESARE*VESPATIANO
of Antiquera.
AVG'PONT'MAX'TRIB*
POT-VIII.IMP'XII'COS'VIII'
P* P'
LVCIVS'PORCIVS.SABELI*
VS'II'VIR-PECVNIA'SVA'
Medaí of An- Father Flores has publiíhed a meda^
tiquera.
of Antiquera; I have accordingly en-
graved it, although I muft confefs my
doubts of its belonging to any town
of Spain, referring the learned anti-
quary to the coins of the kings of Ga-
lacia, publiíhed by Monf. Pellerin,
where he will perceive that of Flores,
whofe medal being imperfect as to the
legend made him too haftily apply
it to this municipium, of which no
other coin has hitherto appeared [

l^z A JOÜRNEY FROM
ANTI^UERA. ímpoííible to determine, and perhaps
of no great importance, to which, of
them it originally belonged.
Fourth Stone IMP'CAESARE'VESPATIANO
of Amiguera.
AVG*PONT*MAX*TRIB*
POT'VIII.IMP'XII'COS'VIII*
P* P"
LVCIVS'PORCIVS.SABELI*
VS'H'VIR'PECVNIA'SVA*
Meáai of An- Father Flores has publiílied a medal
tiquera. ' • • •
of Antiquera; I have accordingly en-
graved it, although I rauft confefs my
doubts of its belonging to any town
of Spain, referring the learned anti-
quary to the coins of the kings of Ga-
lacia, publiílied by Monf. Pellerin,
where he will perceive that of Flores,
whofe medal being imperfect as to the
legend made him too haftily apply
it to this municipium, of which no
other coin has hitherto appeared [e].
\_e] The order of Terrafa was originally iníli-
tuted by Don Garcia Sánchez King of Navarre
in 1040. The

GI FR ALTAR TO MALAGA. I33
The city of Antiquera was deli- B o O K in -
vered from the Mahometan yoke by A r ^ A n '
the infant Don Ferdinand, únele and
tutor to Don Juan II, king of Canille
in 141 o. He gave it, for arms, a
lhield azure, a jar of lilies between a
lion and a caftle; below the letters
A-T« the initials of Azucenas, lilies,
and Terrafa, an order of knighthooc],
he revived in Spain in 1403.
In the caftle is ftill preferved a Mo *ry A
curious armoury belonging to the
Moors, and which they left behind.
them when they gave up the city to
the Chriítians. It coníifts of almoft
evéry kind of offenfive and defeníive
weapons in ufe among them; helmets,
bucklers, breaít-plates, piques, za?
gayas, or ihort darts, which they
K 3 lanced

134 A J 0 U R N E Y FROM
ANTICUE»A i a n c ed with. wonderful addrefs, bows,
arrows, &c.
Among the reít I took particular
notice of the adargas, or íhields, with
which the Moors defended themfelves
both from the points of the lance
and the ítroke of the fword : thofe
made in the city of Fez were the moft
famous; their compolition, on exami-
nation, feemed to be of two hides
haídened and ítuck together, be-
tween which was a fort of paite,
made of - herbs dryed, ground, and
mixed with camejs hair; their foli-
dity and hardnefs is aftonifhing, and
impenetrable even by a muíket-ball;
the form of. them in general was
not circular but oval,in the center roíe
a nob or point, called by the Romarts,
Umbo, round which was engraved
6 an

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 135
an Arabian motto, the blazon of the
love or adventures of its owner.
B o o K l I L
Another noted weapon of the CrofsBovl! "
Moors was the ballefta, or ctofs bow,
ufed indifcriminately for íhooting
ftones' or arrows; its forcé was irre-
fiftible; during the rebellion of the
Alpujarras, in the reign of Philip II,
Don Jofeph de Lara,the prieft, being
tiedby the Moors to a tree, was nailed'
to it with an arrow íhot from a crofs
bow at the diftance of 30 yards?
Their lances were long and pointed
with iron : in their management the
Mooriíh cavalry were moft dexterous ;
with them they maintained the field
in their jufts and tournaments,
obferving the ancient laws and
cuftoms of chivalry ; the Arabian
K 4 knight
Lances.

1-36 A JOÜRNEY FROM
A ^ T '^ ERA -knight made good his claim to his
miftreís, difputed with his rivals, and
fought his prívate quarrels in the
lifted field,
The perfonal courage of the An-
daluñan Moors, may be íeen in their
conftant practice of going out íingly
to the frontiers of the Chriítians, and
fightjng any Spaniíh knight they met
with; this cuítom they kept up to
the very laft, and it was the baíis of
numerous romances, many of them
trne, as is the affecting ftory of Abin-
darajez, 'in the" Diana of Jorge de
>lontemajor. .
L M« of A"- Antiquera was the birth-place of
Luis Í)el Luis DeL Marmol Carvajal, who 'lived
Marmol.
in the days of Philip II; he wrote the
beft hiftory of África extant, and the
rebellion

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 13^
rebellion of the Moors of Granada in
his own times, both which works are
inmylibrary, printedin Granada 1573,
and Malaga 1600; he was thoroughly
verfed in the Arabick language, hav-
ing been fome time captive in Barbary.
B o 0 K I I L
I have already mentioned Father f^ 1 '" Cab *
Cabrera, he died in 1649 ; other
writers, natives of Antiquera, are Au-
guílin Texada, who publiíhed in 166o
a fmall hiítoryof Antiquera; Francifco Fr.Padíii*.
de Padilla, canon in the cathedral of
Malaga, publiíhed in that city, Hifio-
ria eckfiqftka de Efpána, i vol. folio,
d e
1605 ; Don Lorenzo de Padilla pub- p°£"¿°
liíhed in Valentía, El Libro primero
délas Anliquedades de Efpa"na, 1669,
and left behind him in MS. the fol-
lowing works, Geografía de E/pana,
No Hilario de Efpána, and La Hijloria
de Efpána ; Pedro de Aguilar printed
at Malaga 1600 a Trealije on Horfe-
V.ol.IL K 5 manfhip,

I38 A JOÜRNEY FROM
j\ f> T;QVFR A. mafíjfr¡pf a n cj p e t e r vValter another at
.t. war.t,. ]sjapjes x O I 1 the / ofSzvimming;
íw m o d e ^ o n J e r o n m i ° de Porras publiíhed
K .«iiiüfi de
Carvajal.
IV-iivo de
i--'tJÍnoía.
Rimas Varias, 1639, and another
í u ; s waninez pCet namcd Luis Martínez de la Plaza
has many of his poems inferted in the
Flores de Poetas Caflellanos of Efpinofa\
Rodrigo de Carvajal priníed at Lima,
1627, two poems, entitled, La Con-
quijia de Antiquera, and ha Batalla de
Toro, and laftly, Pedro de Efpinofa
publiíhed the poetical works of his
contemporaries in Valladolid 1605 [e];
in the firft vol. of the Par najo Efpanol
is an elegant poem of his writing,
itiled El Rio Gcnil, admirad for purity
and fwtetneís of ñyle, and perfedt
imitation of the ancicnts. He lived
and died under the patronagc cf the
duke of Medina Sidonia, on the
2iít of October 1650. A panegy-
[c\ Flores de Poetas iluítres Caítelia
anos.
rick

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. I39
B o o K ríck [/] of his patrón, which he pub- I I L
liíhed in Seville 1629, is a mafter-
piece of eloquence, and difcovers a
ftrong genhis, warmed and animated
by a moft grateful heart.
Antiquéra produced two of the Antonio M».
hedano.
moft eminent painters of the laft cen-
tury; Antonio Mohedano, and Geró­
nimo de Bovadilla; the former par-
ticularly excelled in frefcos, of which
I have feen noble fpecimens in the
cathedral of Cordova, where the dome,
bf the chapel of the Sagrario is of his Hls W o r k s '
hand: in the, great convent of Fran-
ciícans [g] at Seville, the whole cloifter
is painted in frefco by him, in com-
pany with Alonzo Vafquez of Ronda;
[/] He likewife wrote an Elogio al Retrato
del Excelentiffimo Sen or Don. Manuel Alonzo
Pérez de Gufman el Bueno, Duque de Medina
Sidonia¿ &c. Printedin Malaga 1Ó25.
[g] La Cafa grande de San Fjrancifco. .
¿he

140 A J-0URNEY FROM
Anti ^- üera - the high church of the city of Lucena
has ' fome of his works. He died
in 1625.
Gerónimo de Gerónimo de Bovadilla paft moñ
Bovadilla.
of his life at Seville, where he ítudied.
.painting under Zurbaran : he was
famous for fmall hiftoric pieces, in
which kind Murillo ufed to employ
him. He lived till 1680.
S I N ' G I L Í S.
The ancient town of Singilis has
been confounded by Morales and
others with Antiquera, deceived by
the infcriptions of both, being all
found within the walls of the latter.
its situation. its real fituation was little more than
a league to the north of Antiquera,
in a defpoblado (or ruinous place)
called by the peafants Antiquera la
Vieja. The following was brought,
from thence:
' * GAL.
x

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 141
GALLO-MAXVMIANO-PROC'AVGG- Boolc III.
ORDO-SINGILEN-OB-MVNICIPIVM-DIV Firft Stone of
Singilis.
TINA-B A R B AROR VM'OBSID IONE'L IBER A
TVM-PATRONO-CVRANTIBVS-C-FAB'RVSTI'
CO'ET-L-^EMILIOPONTIANO-
This ítone has been variouííy co-
pied by all the antiquaries, and very
erroneouíly by Ambrofio Morales.
I believe with Father Flores, it alludes
to an invafion of the Moors in Spain,
mentioned by Julias Capitolinus, in
his life of Marcus Aurelius Anto-
ninus [A], and that the inhabitants of
Singilis, being beíieged by them, were
delivered by Gallus Maxumianus.
The AVGG fixes the date of this ftone
from 161 to 170, being the interval D^e of

142. A JOURNEY FROM
»""»"•»• of the joint reign of M. Aurelhis, and
Lucius Veras.
The two following are dedications
of ítatues to Lucius Junius Nothus,
who was of a Plebeían family, and a
freedman, though he muft have been
a man of confequence, and deferved
well of his commonwealth, to have
^oiSk s¡u° n e t w o ft atues > o n e °f them óf brafs,
erected to him, and all the honours
decreed to him, which the rank of a
freedman admitted of: he was like-
wife one of the íix priefts of the Em-
peror's College. Thefe ílones are at
preíeixt in the Galle de Los Marmoles^
in Antiquera, where I faw them.
jl-.IVNIO.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 143
BOOK HL
ÍÁVNIO-NOTHO-OR — —
Third Stoneof
DO-SINGILIENSIVM-STA
TVAM'ET'HONORES-QVOS.
GVIQVE»PLVRIMOS-LI
BERTINO'DECREVIT*
L-IVNIO-NOTHO*
VI'VIR-AVG PERPE
TVO'CIVES-SINGILI
ENSES-ET-INCOLAE
EX-AERE-CONLATO*
Faüier
S M S Ü 1 S R

144 A J O U R N £ Y FROM
- S ' NGIL ' S - Father Cabrera has quoted another
dedication of a ítatue erected by the
fame Lucius Junius Nothus, to his
wife Rutilia Fructuofa.
PourlJi Stone ; ,
at ijingiiis. RVTILIAE-FRVCTV08 AE.
L'IVNIVS-NOT-EIVS-VXORI.
The next is a tomb-ftone on which
the town is ftyled Municipium Libe-
rum Singilienfe; and Father Cataneo
copied the infcnptiori which foliows,
in which the titles of Singilis are
augmenten by the addition of Flavia.
COR-

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 145
CORNELIAE-BL AND 1NAE-SINGI LÍENSE- BOOK IIL
L-CORNELIUSTHEMISON-PATER-ET-COR1 ST NE ÜF .?.
Snguis.
NELIA-BLANDA-MATER-POSVERVNT-
HVIC-ORDO-M-LIB-SING-IMPENSAM-
FVNERIS-ET-LOCVM-SEPVLTVRAE-DEC-
C-MVMIO-C-F-QVIR-HISPANO
PONT-CIVES-ET-INCOLAE*
M-M-FLAVII-LIB-SING-
EX-AERE-CONFLATO
OB.MERITA-DEDERVNT-
The moít extraordinary monument
of Singilis is the following, taken from
a manufcript of Don Luis Velafquez.
The word BARB. therein, father
Flores interprets Barbatani; in which
fenfe, this infcription imports, that
VOL. II. L " Acilia
Sixrh Stone of
Singilis.

I46 A JOURNEY FROM
SlNGULIS - " Acilia Plecufa dedicated this ftatue
Scventh Stone
" to Marcus Acilius Phlegonius, her
" fon, and native of Singilis Barbi-
" tanus, to whom the moft holy
" order, or government, of Singilis
44 Barbitanus decreed that he might
" wear the decurional robe," or, in a
modern phrafe, an alderman's gown.
of Singilis. M-ACILIO-PHLEGONI'SING-BARB.
ACILIA'PLECVS A.MATER'D'D*
HVIC'ORDO'SANCTISSIMVS'
SING'BARB-ORNAMENTA.
DEC VRION ALIA-DECREVIT.
Thefe titles of Flavius Barbitanus
Liberes were probably afliimed by the
citizens after the time of Pliny, who
ñames the town limply Singilis, and
places it in the jurifdiction of Cor­
dova.
C H A P.

GIBRALTAR TO MÁLAGA.
€ H A P T E R IV.
A R A T I S P L
the road over the moiintains¿
from Antiquera to Malaga, and
two leagues South of the former, was
anciently a Román town, named
Aratifpi, of which we have not the
leaft mention in the Greek and Ro­
i 47
Bbók III.
mán geogtaphers. It was íituated in^ íkuation,
a Defpobladoj called Cauche el Viejo¿
a quarter of a league from a ímall
village, named Cauche, to Which
place the following infcriptions were
carried, and employed in the church
and other private buiklings.
L 2 The

I48 A JOÜRNEY FROM
ARATISfI - The firft is a compleat and copious
F i Aradfp! ° f e n c o m m m °^ t ^ ie emperor Trajan,
on the bafe of a ftatue to that prince,
eredfed after his death, which hap-
i« Date - pened in the year 117.
IMP-CAESARI-DIVI-NERVAE-F*
DIVO'TRAIANOOPTVMO.
AVG-GERM-DACICO.PARTHICO-
PONT-MAX«TRIB'POT'XXI-IMP«
XIII-COS«VI-P-P«OPTVMO«
MAXVMO-QUE.PRIÑCIPI-CON
SERVATORI-GENERIS'HVMANI.
RESPVBLICA-ARATISPITANORVM-
DECREVIT-DIVO-DEDICAVIT.
S r f A r a £ e T h e n e x t i s a dedication of a ftatue
to Adrián his fuccefíbr, whofe third
its Date, confulíhip was in the year 119.
imp.

i
GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 149
IMP-
CAESARI'DIVI*
TRAIANI-PARTHICI-F*
DIVI NERVAE-NEPOTI-
TR AI ANO*H ADRIANO.
AVGPONTIFICI-MAX'
TRIB-POTEST-COS-III-P-P.
RESP-ARATISPITANA-
D« D.
And the following ftone has been
the bale of a ftatue to an illuftrious
citizen of Aratifpi, named Marcus Ful-
vius Senecio, erected by a number of
his friends, whofe ñames ferve to
enumérate fo many Ronian families
that lived in this town.
L 3 M-FVL-
BOOK III.

I
Aratispi. m-fvlvio.sen'ecioni-
A JOURNEY FROM
. , „ r AR AT I S P ¡T ANO . . . . OPTVM . . .
Thirc] Stone of
Aratifpi. TANTISSIMO-C1V1-OB-M
AMiCIPOSVERVNT.
p.licinivs-aemilianvs'p'licin'r • • .
l-licin-vibian-l-licin-licinian . . .
l-fabivs-s1lvin-c-fabivs'fabianvs , .
l.fabivs-optatus.m-ivn-montan . . . .
m- ivnivs-m arti al'm-i vn'm atern vs' . .
m-flavivs-maxvmin-l-flavi-severvs- . .
c-calpvrn-gkner-c-calpvrn-perpetvvs'
c-^emll-anthvs-t.ann.dionYsivs . . .
laviulivs capratínvs -
Marcus Valerius Martial, native of
this country, who flouriíhed in the
reign of Trajan, and ended his days
in Spain, has in this liít one of his
family, named Marcus Junius Mar­
tial.
Of that of the Licinii was Lucius
Licinius, who, when Pliny the eider
was

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. I5I
was in Spain, offered him 400 B o O K m -,
feíterces for his book of commenta-
ries, whereby he manifefted his
efteem and juft opinión of the merit
of Pliny, and his own liberality and
unbounded love of learning. We
are indebted to Pliny the younger for
fuch an honourable anecdote of this
family, in whofe days Gaecilius Claf-
íicus, being proconful of Bsetica, was
accufed by the whole province, and
arraigned at Rome, for his extortions.
Norbanus Licinianus was one of the
deputies fent to carry their complaints
to the fenate.
Gruter quotes two monuments, r °n"
exifting in the walls of the Alhambra
of Granada, of this family of Lici-
nius Licinianus, who are therein
ranked military tribunes of the fe-
L 4 venth

I5 2 A JOURNEY FROM
A r a t i s "' venth legión, and Román citizens of
the Galerian tribe.
Pliny the younger has comme-
morated feveral eminent perfons of
the family of Senecio, his contempo-
raries and friends. Sempronius Sene­
cio was a Román knight. To Socius
Senecio he addreffes one of his epif-
tlcs on a lubjecl: that befpeaks him
a man of lcttcrs.
Merennius Senecio was retained
jointly with Pliny as advocares for this
province againft B&bius MalTa. Pliny
iliys exprefsly, he was a native of
Baetica, nioít probably of Aratifpi,
and had been queftor in it.
The tomb- ftone of Lucius Lici-
nius Licinianus exifts in the córner of
the

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. IC¡3
the tower of the church of Cauche, B o O K IIr -
and is remarkable for having the
Patera engraven on the lide of the
marble.
D. M. s.
L. LICINIVS. LICI
NIANVS. ARATIS
PITANVS. VIXIT. |©|
ANNIS. LXXVII.
P.I.S.H.S.E.S.T.T;L.
L. R. P.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
S A B O R A. B °°" ra
Nearer to Malaga, in the lame
mountains, not far from a village
called Can ete, was a Román town of
note, by ñame Sabora. Pedro Mexia, Pedro . M «« «
' ; 1 Spamlh An-
a Spaniíh antiquary, who lived be- tl i u * r >'-
fore Morales, found a large píate of
brafs, containing a decree of Vefpa-
fian, in favour of this people, and in
confequence of their petition pre-
fented the 2 5th of July, and an-
fwered the 3oth of the fame month.
ZMI».

156 A JOURNEY FROM
SABOR A.
Monumcnt of
Sal»ora.
IMP-CAE-VESPACIANTS-AVG*PONTI-
FEX-MAXVMVS-TR1BVNICIAE-P0TES
TATI5.VIIMMP-XIIX.CONSVL VJII'P'P-
5ALVTEM-DICIT-IIII-VIRIS-ET-DE
CVRIONIBVS-SABORENSIVM-
C VM MVLTIS-DIF FICVLTATIB VS.I NFIR M IT A
T EM-VESTR AM-P R EM1-INDIC ETIS'PER M IT
TO.VOBiS.OPPIDVM-SVBNOMINE'M EÜ^VT-
VOLTIS IN-PI.ANVM EXTR VER E-VECTIC A
L] A-QV AE-ABDIVO-AVG'ACCEPISSE-DICl
TIS CVSTODIO-SIQVA-NOVA-/DIICERE-VOL
TIS'DE HIS-PROCONSVLEM-ADIRE-DEBERI
11S.EG0-EN1M-NVLLO R ESPONDENTE-CONS
TITVERE-NÍL'POSSVM'DEGRETVM'VESTRVM'
A C C E PI. VIII K A L- A VGVST- L E G A TOS-
DI MISI.IIII'KA'E A áDEM - VÁLETE.
TTviRI.C-CORNELIVS'SEVERVS'ET^
M-SEPTIMIVS SEVERVS-PVBLICA-PE
CV X IA• 1 N• A F.RE-INC'IDERYNT•
Ilí

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
In Engliih, " The Emperor Vef-
" pallan, &c. falutes the Quatuor-viri
" and aldermen of Sabora. Having
" received the account you fend us
" of the many difficulties you labour
" under by the prefent fituation of
" your town on a hill, I permit you
" to rebuild it on the plain as you
" delire, and that you may cali it by
" my ñame, and the public rents,
" which you fay were granted you
" by the Divine Auguílus, I preferve
" and continué to you on the fame
" terms; but, if you want to lay on
" any new ones, you muít go and
" confult the proconful of the pro-
" vince about it, becaufe therein I
" cannot give any order, Unce there
" is nobody at Rome that can be
" aifecled by it or proteft againft it.
" I received your public decree on
«* the

A JOURNEY' FROM
" the 2 5th of July, and difpatched
" your deputies the 30th of the fame
t l month. Farewell."
This exaótitude and promptnefs of
the Emperor is a laíling monument
of the unremitting diligence and at-
tention of that excellent prince to
every complaint of ib vaft an empire;
a pattern and example to all fucceed-
ing princes. Sabora appears to have
been a large and populous republic,
being governed, like Carteia, by
Quatuor-viri; two of their ñames,
Caius Cornelius Severus, and Marcus
Septimius Severas, are here men-
tioned. The cuítom of engraving
the decrees of the Román emperors
on plates of brafs, for the greater
honour and perpetual obfervance of
them, is as oíd as the empire itfelf.
The

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. I5<
The paíltion of Sabora was at this
time removed from the top of the
hill to a valley, for fo we muft in-
terpret Planum, the town being in
the midft of the lofty mountains of
Malaga; it likewife, without doubt,
at the fame time affumed the appel-
lation of Flavius, in honour of Vef-
paíian : this will be verified íhould
any infcription be hcreafter difcovered
at Cañete; and may draw the anti-
quary into an erroneous fnppoíition
pf a plurality of towns, if he has not
this monument in his memory.
B o O K I I L
Cañete itfelf is at prefent re- cañete,
placed on its primitive fcite very
high, probably the Moors removed
it there on account of its ftrength ;
they built a ftrong caftle above the
town, which contains 700 families;
ruins of the oíd town, founded by
the Saboretifes in virtue of Vefpa-
íian's decree, may be traced in a bot-
Vol. II. L 8 tom

l6Q A J O U R N E Y FROM
_ Sae0R *' tom about a quarter of a league from
Second ftone
Can ete.
Round the fountain in the fquare
of Caliere are placed the two follow-
ing tomb-fíones OF variegatcd marble:
FHFT ÍLONS OF S EP TIMIA• M• F • SEVER A-
1 SABOI'A.
ANN'LXX'PTS-H-S-E'T'PT
IN-F-X'XXXXMN-A-P-XXXX*
OÍ SABORA. C -M E M MIV S • E P A P H RODIT VS
A-LV-H-S-E-S-T-T-L
NICE-SOROR-CVM-EPAPHRODITO
E T • N A TIS • CIP V M * M A R M O R E V M •
D.
At a a little chapel called La Her-
mita de la CoJ)radia de los E/clavos
are two others.
TWDFTONEOF C ALP VRN1A-RHOPOPE
ANNORVM XX-PIA-IN-SVISJ
H-SE'SIT-T-T-L.
FNUNHFIONE The next perpetuates the memory
OÍ ÁABORA.
of TWO MORE Romans of the Cornelian
family mentioncd a 1 ; o ve.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA* IÓI
P-CORNELIVS
FELIX-A NN-LX*
ET.P-COR-VALE
RIANVS-ANN-XVIII.
PIVS-IN.SVIS'H.S-E.
S-T-T'L-
VOL. II. M

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA, 163
T E B A. BOOKIII,
On the fummit of a very high
mountain, a íhort league from Ca­
rrete, you meet with Teba, a town
much fmaller than the former, but
which, however, claims our attentioh
from the various veftigia it retains of
having been a Román town: very re-
markable is a tomb-ftone, adorned S t ^ °£
Teba.
with the various hieroglyphicks of
Hymen, Cupid, Bees, Inítruments of
Huíbandry, and thofe of Sacrifice.
M 2
This

164 A J O U R N E Y FROM
This ftone was never publiíhed;
it imports in Engliíh, " Sacred to the
" Dii Manes; Death, the enémy of
i ( life, that, with unremitting rigour,
" fnatches away, confumes, diiTolves,
" and tramples upon ali things, has
" here joined in one tomb the re-
" mains of a beautiful couple, who
" ftriótly and ardently loved each
" other when living."
The

M 3

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. %6$
The elegance of this epitaph he-
fpeaks the Auguftan age; the yoke
and plough-fhare indicate this lovely
couple humble tillers of the ground,
whofe occupation was highly refpeóled
by the Romans: the bee has been ever
an emblem of fweetnefs in poetry,
manners, and converfation. Horner is
called,
«' Homerus Melliflui Oris." Boeth. v. 6.
B o o K i n
arrIval at
Wehave nowcompleated ourfurvey ?^
of the Román towns that lie round the
mountains of Abdalaciz, and approach-
ed Malaga, the end of our journey,
where we arrived on the 2 7th of Sep-
tember, 1772. In this íhort tour, thofe,
who have no tañe for the venerable
remains of antiquity, may receive íin^
guiar pleafure from the multiplícity
and variety of profpeóts that have
every where prefented themfelves to
YOL. II, M 4
*
-
J Malaga 1772,

A JOURNEY FROM
our view. The road partly lies on
the mild beach of a calm fea, whofe
waves die away at your horfe's feet,
while the eye is entertained with the
diftant view of the African coaít, and
the white fails of the Spaniíh.
barks [/], which imperceivably vaniíh
from your íight: fometimes it car-
ries you on the tops of mountains,
whofe refreíhing air is perfumed with
the odoriferous íhrubs that cover
them, and which,' in our native coun-
try, are faintly propagated at a great
expence; fometimes we defcend to
the vallies by the íide.of natural caf-
cades and water-fallsj and at others
we ride through groves of almonds,
or are íheltered from the rays of the
Sun in gardens of orange and lemon
[/] la my views of Marvella and of the Mole
of Malaga, may be feen the appearance thefe
barks make on the ver?e of the horizon.
2 trees;

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
trees ; the grape the fig, or any fruit
in feafon, you may freely gather
where ver you meet it, and the goat-
herd in the fields will never refufe
you a bowl of milk; on their oft ex~
perienced courtefy I fo conftantly de­
pended, that I generally fet out in a
Rodrigo Caro, who vifited Teba in the year
1620, found the tvvo following infcriptions therej
the firíl placed over the door of a houfe, and
the fecond at a farm near the town.
VICTORIAE'AVG*
Q^FABIVS'L'F'PAL'M'FABVLLVS
L'F'TESTAMENTO'FIERI
PONIQIIVSSIT'EX.HS.IIII.
HVIC'DONO-L'FABI VSVL'F*
GAL'FABI ANVS'LIBERT.
XX , NON'r>EDVXIT"ET"
ALMO'TASSIVS^D'D*
AVRELTAE'FESSENIAE"
ANTVLLUS'GERMANVS*
EVHEMERVS'CVPITVS'
LIBERT*
CALPVRNIVS'HARTVS'
CALPVRNIVS'HILARIS -
VOL. II. M 5 morning

A J O U R N E Y FROM
morning without ray breakfaít, hav-
ing had many occafions in life to ob-
íerve, that th.e poor are ever more
Yiberal of what Vittle is in their power
to give than the rich; wealth and
profperity harden the heart, and in
great cities,many, who live in the moít
expenfive luxury, abandon, without
remoríe, their children or brethren to
poverty and want, whom they would
have afliíted with benevolcnce and
humanity, had they been born and
lived in a cottage: the peaíants, on
the contrary, are tenderly fond of
their offspring, they feed them with
the daily fweat of their brow, and the
hardíhips they undergo to maintain
them, feem to heighten their parental
íbndne.^, which is oftcn extended even
to the hazard of their own lives ; an
admirable inítance of which happened

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. *l68
in this very country during the re- B o o k I 1 1 -
bellion of the oppreífed Moors, in the
reign of Philip II. when a moun-
taineer of the Alpujarras, named El
Zamar, flying with his family andKKT* 7
tribe from the fword of the purfuing
Spaniards, although he knew the cruel
death that awaited him if taken,
turned back his fteps to feek a child,
thirteen years oíd, who had dropped
down tiredon the road, and the ene-
my overtook him ítaggering up the
hill, with his daughter on his
íhoulders; but this act of fatherly
piety could not fave him from the
barbarity of the Count of Tendilla,
who tore off his flefli by peacemeal,
with pincers, in the fquare of Granada:
in that dreadful hour, the recolleótion
of the defperate ftate of his virgin.
VOL.IÍ. M6 daughter,

A J O U R N E Y FROM
daughter, in the hands of the licen-
tious foldiers, was more intolerable
to him than all his fuíFerings.
We forgot to enumérate among the plants
natives of the Sierra de Ronda, The Ciftus, a
íhrub which bears a white rofe of five leaves,
eaeh ftained with a purple ftripe, it is an ever-
green with large narrow Ihining leaves of a deep
colour. Wherever a branch is broken or in-
jured, it diílills a liquid gum, which the air con-
denfes; it is fweet to the palate, but it has not
the purgative qualities of the Manna we receive
from the Eaft Indies, I have tafted it myfelf,
and feen it eaten in great quantities by the chil-
dren, who feek and devourjt with eagernefs.
i
A J O U R

[ 169 J
A
J O U R N E Y
F R O M G I B R A L T A R
T O M A L A G A .
B O O K IV.
CHAPTER I.
^ U R journey has been hitherto re-
peatedly rendered gloomy and
difagreeable by the melancholy prof-
pects of ancient towns fallen to decay;
others in abfolute ruins; and fome fo
cruelly

170 A JOURNEY FROM
T MALAGA. c r u eHy a n¿ totally devoured by time,
that a moft painful fearch has hardly
been able to difcover the territories
that once fupported them; fo many
moral leflbns in the book of Nature,
where we reaf| the inftability and
final end of all terreítrial grandeur.
" Disjeítis Oppida muris,
" Relliquias, veterumque vides monumenta

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. I7I
which it denied to its moft renowned B o O K l v -
mother the fuperb Tyre, the crowned
city, whofe merchants were princes
and the honourable of the earth:
from thefe princely and illuftrious
fonndérs, dignified and immortalized
by the divine fpirit of the prophet
Ifaiah, Malaga received its firft ex-Syfhlpií
. n . , . , „ nicians ante
íítence eight or nine centuries before chnftumsys,
the Chriftian aera, and, ac^ording to
Anderfon, in the year of the world
3108.
It is fituated at the bottom of a its shuadon,
large and excellent bay, bounded by
the mountains that approach the
water at Torre Molinos, take a femi-
circular tour round the whole Moya
de Malaga, and again waíh their rocks
in the fea, under the very walls of
the town, terminating in two points,
and

17» A J O U R N E Y F R O M
M a l a o a - and expofing a grand amphitheatre
from the turrets of the Gibralfaro,
whence the íhips, lying at anchor in
this ípacious bafon, form a moving
pi&ure, the azure of the fea vying
for heauty with the verdure of the
rich and fruitful vale [/],
[/] Of Malaga, no other View was ever pub­
liíhed than a very fmall and imperfe¿t one from
the fea, in Les Delices d'Efpagne. A refidence
of nine months put it in my power to take three
large drawings of this city, as well as views
of its Mooriíh gates and beautiful cathedral,
which, with the others mentioned in the fore-
going íheets, I intend to reduce to a fcale fuitable
to this work, and publiíh: in order to render them
compleaí, they íhall be drawn with my own
hands, and finilhed under my infpeílion with the
greateft care and accuracy, not after the lazy
example of moft of our modern travellers, who
content themfelves with furriiíhing the artift
with the outline of a drawing, which they had
not patience or abilities to finiíh themfelves on
the fpot, and deceive the world with views that
pever exiíled but.iq the engraver's fapcy.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. I73
Appian, of Alexandria \_m\ is of B o o K IV -
opinión, that, in very ancient times,
the Phcenicians poíreíTed themfelves
of fome parts of Spain ; and Strabo \n\
confirms the firft foundation of Ma­
laga by the Phcenicians, and abfolutely
rejects the opinión of thofe who at-
tribute that honour to the Phoceans,
200 years later, and who confoimd
this city with Moenaca, which he
obferves was farther to the Eaítward,
at a larger diftance from Calpe.
Strabo, in the fame page, fpeaks
of the many gold and other precious
mines of the mountains of Malaga;
which paíTage naturally inclines us to
a perfuaíion, that as the Phcenicians
[m] Lib. vii.
[«] Lib. iii.
frequented

174 A JOURNEY FROM
MALAGA. frequented and eftabliíhed themfelves
at Tartefíus, allured by the ore of its
neighbourhood ; fo it may likewife be
prefumed, that they fettled a colony
in Malaga, where they equally found
a profpect of wealth, and the ad-
vantage of one of the fineft and fafeft
bays on all the coaít of Spain.
^hocta^s A e Father Morejon, in his manufcript
tumS^Jí nf " hiftory of Malaga, favours the tra-
dition thát it was firft peopled by the
Phocenfes, founding himfelf on a
ítone ítill exiíting in the córner of
the ítreet Del Toril, near the great
fquare, whereon appears to have been
once a Greek infcription, through
time and ill-ufage unintelligible: this
perhaps is the fame that Alderete, inhis
Origin de la Lingua Caítellana, men-
tions, and which he fays was found
2 in

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. I73
in the hofpital of Santo Thomé: I B O O K I V -
think we may fo far rely on this
monument, as to infer the Phoceans, Fir ^^ of
when they viíited this coaft, not only
touched at, but made fome ftay in
Malaga, which no ways argües their
having been its firft founders.
The Carthaginians eítabliíhed them-
felves at Malaga, and were mafters of
all this coaft of Spain about the year
534 before Chrift, after the calcu-carthaginians ,
arrived at
lation of Méndez de Silva, in which S g u 1 ni aíltc
he cannot greatly err, as the firft 334<
Punic war, when the powcr of the
Carthaginians was at the height,
broke out in the year 263 before
our bleffed Saviour's nativity.
The ñame of Malaga, according to Etymology of
the Ñame of
the fentiment of Father Roa, is a M ^s»-
further

I76 A J O U R N E Y FROM
M a l a c a - further proof of its Phcenician origin,
he deriving it from the Hebrew Ma-
lach, or Melech, lignifying to reign;
and, that it was the queen and head
of all the neighbouring coaft from
Gibraltar to Carthagena, we have the
teílimony of Strabo; others go nearer
ftill and feek the etymology of Ma­
laga in the Phcenician verb Malach,
to falt, alluding to the trade of falí-
fiíh, anciently carried on here.
itsLwítude. ptolemy [0] has calculated the latí-
tude of Malaga 30 miles too far
Northward, in 37^ in other editions
37. Don Pablo Ferrer, an ingenious
fon of Malaga, has moít accurately
obferved it to lie in 36 degrees, 25
minutes, and 5 feconds.
fo] Lib. ii. cap. 4.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 177
During the dominión of the Ro- B o O K IV -
mans in Spain, the ancient fplendoiir 1 ^^ 0 ^"/ 7
of Malaga is proved and proclaimed
by the numerous momiments and
infcriptions that the injuries of time
have fpared us : Antoninus makes
Malaga the term of a journey from
Caílulo, and from henee he com-
mences another to Cádiz.
Malaga had the honour not only bythem «e-
° ated a Muni-
of being a municipium, but an ally c^Xkme
and confedérate of the Román people; ° ty *
a diftinction granted by them to only
two other cities in the whole province
of Raetica; of which Suel, its neigh-
bour, was one, as we learn from
Pliny:
" Oppidurn Suel, Malaca cum ñuvio fbede-
" ratorum [/>]."
\j>] Lib. in,
VOL. II, N From,

A J O U R N E Y FROM
From this paíTage we may con­
duele, that, when the Romans, under
Scipio, conquered Nova Cartago, and
all this coaft from the Carthaginians,
208 years before Chrift, Malaga hap-
pily and voluntarily offered to fubmit
to the Román dominión, thereby en-
titling themfelves, accordihg to the
policy of that wife nation, not only
to be faved from plunder and vaf-
falage, but to be declared a free mu-
nicipium, governed by their own
laws, under the protección of, and
not fervilely fubject to, Rome.
The diftmguiíhed honour of being
declared a confedérate city, was
perhaps owing to fome opportune
and valuable affiftance, rendered by
the Malaguenians, in the profecution
of the war to the common-wealth,
enhanced

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. Í79
enhanced by the particular intereft of B o o K IV -
the Romans to fecure the good-will
and help of a maritime town, its fleet
and íhips, at a juncture when the
Carthaginians were much fuperior to
them at fea.
Thofe towns which were thus dig- p viIe g« of a
0 Confedérate
nified by the Romans with the title Tov -
of Confederates, did not only enjoy
the rights and privileges of a mu-
nicipium, but were regarded and
refpected as an ally, companion, and
friend to the Republick, who always
addreíiéd them with the íifterly ex-
preffion of " Pia, and .¿Eterna Pax."
This honour was held fo facred, that
Suetonius tells us, in his life of Cali-
gula, " whenever that emperor en-
" tered any confedérate town, he
" would not fufFer his li&ors to walk,
N 2 " before

18o A J O U R Ñ E Y FROM
M a l a g a - " before him, thereby declaring his
S c y ^fuíf " power and authority ought to be
" íhewnand exerted over his fubje¿ts,
" not over his friends."
It is to be lamented, that a title fo
glorious has not been celebrated on
any monuments remaining of this
city ; aild that of municipium in one
only, which is not exifting at prefent,
but quoted by Morejon: it had ferved
as a bafe to a {tatué, erected by " Va-
u leria Macrina to her huíband Lu-
" cius Gcecilius BaíTus, a Románcitizen
" of the Quirine ti i be, at her own
" expence, by a decree of the Dc-
" cvirions of the Municipium of Ma-
« laga.»
L CAE-

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. IjS.I
L-CAECILIO'Q:F'QyiR-BASSO-
EX DECDEOMVN-MAL*
VALERIA-Q^F-MACRINA*
VXOR-HONORE.CONTEN.
TA-IMPENSAM-REMISSIT'
The firft of the two following in­
fcriptions has been the pedeftal to
a ftatue of the Emperor Marcus
Aurelius.
M AVRELIO VERO-CAE
SARIS-TITI-AELII-ADRIA-
NI-N ANTONINI'AVG-PII'
P-P'FIL-ANTONINO-CONS»
II-SCAPH . , QVI-MALAC
NECOTIANTVR-D-P^S-
D- D-
N 3
IMP.
B o o k IV.
Second Stone
of Malaga,
Tbird Stone of
Malaga,

A JOUR. NEY FROM
MALAGA.
-—— • IMP-CAFS-L-SEPT-SEVERO'PIO.
Fourth Stone
of Malaga. PERTIN ACI'AVG'P ARTH-ARAB*
D a t
e í e
stone* The
ADIAB-PAC ATORI-ORBISET*
FVNDATORIIMP-ROM-IN-EIVS-
HONOREM-RESP-MALACTEM
PLVM-MARTI-D-D. '
former was ere&ed by the
mariners and boatmen of Malaga,
probably in gratitude for fome be-
nefits and privileges granted them
by that good emperor Antoninus,
the philofopher, who reigned alone
from 170 to 180; this laft is a
dedication in honour of the em­
peror Severas, of a temple to
Mars, by the republick of Malaga,
and muft have been ereóted in the
beginning of his reign, about the
year 194, as he foon after rejefted
' the

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA,
the ñame of Pertinax his predeceftbr,
Morales, from whom I copied it, never
troubled himfelf to aícertain in what
part of the town this ítone was found.
Father Morejon has another ítone
of the fon of this emperor, named
Caracalla, who inherited the titles,
though none of the virtues of his
father. The following one alludes
to the tenth perfecution of the
church, and was put up by the in-
habitants of Malaga, in honour of
Diocleñan and Maximinian, on the
fuppofition, that the Chriftian reli­
gión had therein been deftroyed, or,
to ufe t^eir own words, the world
purged of it.
ÍMP,

184
MALAGA.
A JOURNEY FROM
IMP-CAESAR-M-AVRELIO-DIVI.
Fifth Stone of
Malaga. SEPTIMISEVERPPII'PERTINA
CIS-AVG-PARTHICI-ARAB-ADIAB.
ENICI-PACATORIS'ORBIS-ET-FVN
DATORIS-IMP'ROM-F-RESPVBLICA-
MALAC- D'D*
Sixth Stone of SS'IME'DIOCLES'ET'MAX'.
iVialaga,
IM-AVG-P-M-PAT-PAT-OR-
NOVAM-SVPERST1TIONEM*
' P VRGATAM'S VB'ARAM'DI'
TIS'PAT'ORDO-MALAC*
P'S-P'D'D'

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. ' l8¿
To the Eaft of the city, facing the BooK xy -
fea, the town is bounded by a iiímg R t^in\te
hill, whereon I have every reafon to
imagine was once the principal Pagan
temple of Malaga, the poíition exo
acily correfponding with that chofen
by the Romans in all their colonies
for their Capitolium, in imitation of
the Capítol at Rome: in the municipal
and confedérate towns they, indeed,
foliowed their own religious cuftoms;
yet it may be prefumed, that they fo
far copied the manners of the Ro­
mans, as to erect their chief temples
on eleyated íituations. In the firíl
Chriítian cpuncil of Granada was
^paífed a canon, forhidding the inha-
bitants from going up to facrifice in
the Capítol of that city.
This

A J O U R N E Y FROM
This fituation being equally well
adapted for the purpofes of an Alcafar,
or royal fortrefs, to proteót and com-
mand the town, the Moors hereon
built the celebrated Alcafaba: ex-
amining this caftle with attention, I
obferved in the walls and buildings of
that part which faces the fea, ruins oí
columns, carved bafes and capitals,
manifeftly Román; the moft remark-
able are two íliafts of fluted marble
pillars, meafuring 36 inches diameter,
with their Corinthian capitals, placed
at the South entrance in the walls of
the cqvered way : the lownefs of t he
roof admitted but one of the blocks
"about eight feet high; the other íhafts
are at íbme diftance in the fame
poíition. In feveral parts of the walls
the Arabs have laid the fliafts of
columns longways, juft to fill up the

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
fpace; two other pillars of red marble
are placed in the corners of the iníide
of the grand arch, for the reception
of the gallies; on the top of this arch
is an infcription, which I íhall pre-
fently quote; another íhaft of w r hite
marble, íix feet high, and 14 inches
diameter, forms the córner of the
wall before the outer gate of the al-
cafaba; it is femarkably fluted, with
the channels turning like a fcrew;
and underneath the gate is laid a
noble grovmdíill of marble, white as
fnow, 12 feet long : in the upper
towers facing the fea are feveral other
blocks of marble, all which announce
to us, that here was, in the time of
the Romans, a fortrefs, or magnificent
temple, moft probably both; on the
ruins of which the Mahometans
ereéted the prefent caftle: on the de-
clivity

IÍ58 A JOURNEY FROM
MALAGA. cftvity Qf g r e a t c o r al
between the lower walls of the fide
of the mole, I perceived ílupendous
foundations of a building, whofe
bulky flones were evidently of Ro­
mán architecture, which would have
been long fince removed, but for
the rife they are of to the owner of
the ground, which has for years been
fowed with corn, in fupporting it on
a level.
Tr/criptions As I was one day bufy in thefe re*
found in 1752.
fearches, I had the good luck to per-
ceive, in the Huerta of the arfenal,
two marble ñones, with Román in-
fcriptions, which the prefent gardener
told me he had dug out of a garden
lying near thefe foundations about
[y] A courr, or yard, Spaniíh.
39

GIBRALTAR TO MÁLAGA.
lo years ago[r]; one of them he
has placed edgeways for the purpofe
of fupporting his wife's waíhing-tub,
and the other round a fountain in the
garden; at the fame time he extraóted
feveral íhafts of pillars fluted and of
red marble; two of them are fet up as
pofts round his hog-ftye; with another
he has formed a gutter near his houfe;
and a fourth has been carried away
into the town, and placed at the gate
leading to the mole.
In the Vatican library is a dedi-
cation (copied from henee) of an altar
to Mercury; in the Famellan manu-
feript is another, to the goddefs of
[r] At the fame time were found feveral
Mooriíh antiquities, as enameled tiles, ear-rings,
and a feal of fine gold, engraved with Arabick
characlers, which I brought away with me.
VicT;ory,

I90 A JOURNEY FROM
málaga. vidtory, which was copied by Ram-
Sevcntli Stone
of Malaga.
berti, Father Cataneo, Bertoli, and, 1
believe, Muratori; another to Her­
cules, which mentions a íilver image
to Mars; a fifth dedication of an
mage to Mars Gradivus; and Don
Chrifloval Conde furniíhed me with
two other dedications, one to Júpiter,
and the other to the Eternal dura-
tion of the Román people.
jovi.
M-LVCRETIVS-CVRVS*
EXIVSSV-VOTVM SOLVIT"
ITEMQVE'TEMPLVM'D-D*
HER-

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
HERCVLI'DEO-INVICTO
I9I
BOOK IV.
Eig'ith Stone
Q¿SERVILIVS.VVLNERE of Malaga.
SERVATVS-SIGNVM.^RE.
VM-EX-VOTO-POS-PRO-
PE-MARTEM» ARGENT.
IN.MAGNA-ARA.
M A RTI. GR A DIVO- Nintli Stone of
Malaga.
TEMPLVM-COMVNI"
VOTO'EREXIT'
The firft is plainly a dedication of
a temple to Júpiter, in compliance of
a vow by Marcus Lucretius Curus;
Quintus Servilius appears in the
fecond cured of a dangerous wound;
and,

1^2 A JOURNEY FROM
malaca, ¿ná, agreeable " to a vow he had made
" to the unconquered god Hercules,
" placed a brazen ftatue of him near
" the íilver one of Mars, on the high
" altar of the temple" in this alcafaba;
the laft was ereóted " to Mars, the god
" of War, by the joint vow of the
" people and commonwealt."
Near the city of Rome, on the Via
Appia, was a temple to Mars Gradivus.
" Coluerunt Romani martem Qui-
" rinum intra urbem, quaíi cufto-
" dem, atque tranqúillum, item Gra-
" divum in Appia Via extra urbem
" quafi bellatorcm [J 1 ]."
Herc we have a plain dedication of
a fimilar temple, without the gates of
Malaga.
f.(] Servii Coment.
The

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . T93
The two following were altar?, to E o o K IV -
*

194 A JOURNEY FROM
MALAGA. «j^g n e x t jg a n infcripti0n Under
Twelfth Stone
ef Malaga.
the ftatue of the goddefs of Vi&ory,
confecrated by the two iEdiles of
Malaga, Lucius Oítavius Rufticus, and
Lucius Granius Balbus. The other
Julián Pérez abfolutely declares was
found in or near the Alcafaba.
VICTORIAE'AVG'SA-
CRVM-L-OCTAVIVS'L-F'
RVSTICVS'L-GRANIVS
M-F-BALBVS-JEDIL*
D'P'S'DANT.
TMrteenth ROMANIvPOPVLI-ETERNITATI*
Stone ot
Malaga. PERMANSVR'CONVENT . . .
MALACIT-SVB'ARCIS . . . .
XII'XX«XXX«XXXIII . . . .
This

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA» I95
This broken and imperfect dedi- B o o K IV -;
cation-ílone to the eternal duration of
the Román republick, by the convent
or chancery of Malaga, I diligently
fearched after without fuccefs. In
the time of Pliny, Malaga had no pre-
teníions to the honour of a chancery,
it being appnrently fubje¿t to that of
Ecija; to folve the difficulty, Julián
Pérez is of opinión, that it might
have been erecled into a county-town
in the latter ages of Rome, when no
Román hiftory that has reached us
mentions Malaga.
Having gone through a review of Fourteenth
Stone of
the infcriptions that are attributed to Mala g»-
the Alcafaba, and which no longer
appear, I íhall proceed to thofe three
that are ftill there: the firíl and prin­
cipal is one of the two I difcovered
O a, in

A ' J O Ü R Ñ E Y FROM
• in the Alcafaba, and which, as I before
obferved, the gardener has placed
edgeways for the convenience of his
wife: the ftone is in many places
worn almoft fmooth; and, having been
for 20 years fucceñively foaked with
lye and foapy water, the infcription
towards the middle within the verge
of this daily inundation, and the íide
which is downwards being never free
from it, is quite unintelligible; the
letter elfe is exceedingly good.
I obtained of the man, by means
of a gratification, to have the ftone
removed from that filthy place, and
well waíhed ; by which means I was
able to decypher enough to com-
prehend it had been the bafe of a
ftatue, which perhaps lies buried
under the fame ruins, w henee this
ftone was extracted.

LVAIBJO-LF-aVÍR - F R O CVLO
P1AEFET' CVRATORí SKTR ACH ON
SYRIiCAE-ETTRIB«líies^LEGION
PRAEI-CLASSIS -ALEXANDRINAE
ETPOTAMO-«^^^»ET-PROC-
AVGALPíVMSMARITVMARJSs
DICrAl :EFCVRA.TORI^PROGAVCr
PROVlNCTAEVLTERTOPvIS'-HISPANIAE
BAETICAE'PROOPROVINCIAE'CAP-
ADO CÍA I-PROCAVG-PR OVINCIARVM
ASIAE-PEOC-PROVINCIARVMTRIVM
^K^MAIACITí^PATRON O
D • D

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 199,
The reading feems to import " To B o O K IV -
" Lucius Valerius Proculus, fon of
" Lucius, a Román citizen of the
" Quirine tribe, that had enjoyed the
" offices of praetor and curator (of
" the emperor's affairs) in Trachonitis
" of Syria; tribune of the fixth le-
" gion, called Claudia Pia Fcelix;
" praefect (admiral) of the fleet fta-
" tioned at the ports of Alexandria
" and Potamos; auguft proconful of
" the maritime province of the Alps;
" diclator, curator, and auguft pro-
" confuí, of the further province of
" Spain called Baetica; proconful of
" the province of Cappadocia; pro-
" confuí of Alia; and proconful of
" the three provinces, &c. &c. The
" Republick of Malaga dedicated this

300 A J O U R N E Y FROM
• M a l a g a . ^ 0fg c e Qf curator was firft ef-*
° í ; r C o ! r s tabliíhed by Auguftus Csefar. Their
chief care was to infpect the recovery
of the tributes and public taxes, and
fee that none were charged more
than was reafonable; as we learn from
Suetonius and Julius Capitolinus.
Trachonitis was a fmall región of
Paleítine in Caelo-Syria, over which
prefided a praetor.
Potamos was a fea-port in Achaia
of Greece, now called Porto de Rafty.
Pliny mentions it.
The three provinces of Pamphilia,
Lycaonia, and Cybera, were in Phry-
gia Major : Cybera, capital of this
little province, was fituated on the
banks of the celebrated river Meander.
Thefe

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
Thefe provinces were feparated a little :
before the deftruclion of the com-
monwealth from the proconfulíhip of
Alia, and added to the government
of CiÜcia, as Cicero informs us, who
himíelf ferved that proconfiüíhip.
In Gruter, page 255, is quoted an
infcription to the bafe of a ftatue, put
up at Rome, by the company of
b'akers, to Antoninus Pius, in his third
confulíliip; on the right íide of which
ftone was a memorial engraved, that
it was erected during the prasfecture
of Lucius Valerius Proculus, who that
year was governor of Rome.
L'VALERI.PROCVLI.
Antoninus
Stone.
Stone of
Rome.

A JOURNEY FROM
Antoninus Pius ferved his third
confulíhip in the year of our Lord
140; fo we may reduce the date of
our monument to within a few years
of the fame sera.

VALERIAE-C-F.
LVCILIAE
L-VALERII-PROCVLI-
PRAEF.AEGYPTI-

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A . 205
This ítone has ncver been pub- __ Eo " x n •
lUlied, ñor hitherro known. Neilher
the circumítance of its being the mo-
niiment of a benefactor to the town,
ñor my earneít entreaties, could fave
it from bcing replaced in its íervile
politlón; fo that I believe no more
copies will be ever taken of it, ñor of
the other infcription [**], which, as I
have already mentioned, lies round ^ ' M ^ ?
the fountain of the fame garden, and
is of beautiful white marble, of a
une fquare Román letter, ornamented
with an elegant molding : " It was
" the bafe of a ítatue erected to Va-
" leria Lucilia, daughter of Caia,
" wífe of Lucius Valerius Proculus,
Pruefect of Egypt, by the Republick
" of Malaga."
[/] This marble is 20 inches long, and 25
wide; the other meaíiires 35 inches by 22 wide.
YOL, II. O 7 Ou

A JOURNEY FROM
On this pedeftal to the ftatue of the
wife of Prócalus, which probably was
erected at the fame time with that of
her huíband, we have a memorial of
another office ferved by him, and
which might have been exprefléd in
the vacuum of the íixth Une on the
bafe of his ftatue. This ftone was iix
feet long when dug up by the gar-
dener; the middle part he fuíferedtQ
be fawed out and earried away.
The third infcription exifting over
the middle arch of the arfenal is
wholly illegible; however, as it bears
the ñame of Malaga, I íhall tranfcribe
it as far as is pofíible.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 207
BOOK IV.
RITA" VIRTVTVM'OMNIVM'QV AE'AD Sixteewh
Stone oí
MINISTRATIONE-PROVINCIAE . . . . M a U ^
RETITIONEM'SVI-OMNI
AVS.BONITATIS'IN VENTA
ADQVE'LAVDABILIS-PRVDENTIAE . .
INTEGRA'SINGVLARIS-ELOQVENTIAE
ET-QVI-EXHALTATIONIS'EXIMIAE . .
. . GRAN . . ET . . IM . . IV . . C . CONS
SENSV'TOTIVS-PROVINCIAE
. . . MALACI'AMORE»A*MA
SE DOMVIT'A
A TITIONE'P ATRONÓ . . .
CLEMENTISSIMO-AC-INDVLGENTIS
SIMO-POSVIT

208 A JOURNEY FROM
M a l a g a - ".It is a monument of gratitudes
Purpon of it. „ e r e a e d b y confent Gf th e whole pro-
" vince, and through the lo ve of the
" town of Malaga, to their moft gra-
" cious and indulgent patrón, who is
" here defcribed as a perfon that had
" difplayed every virtue in the admi-
" niftration of the government of the
" province, which found itfelf happy
" under his aufpices, he being laudably
" prudent, of great integrity, íingular
" eloquence," &c.
seventeemh j n the city walls, near the Püeita-
Stone of
J 7
Malaga. n u e v a ) j s a n elegant little tomb-ftone
of white marble, and which, as well
as the foregoing, was never before
publiíhed: it is remarkable for the
number of abreviations, which read
Monumentum, Pofuit, Marito, Bene,
Mérito, Hic, Situs, Eft, Sit, Tibi,
Terra,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 209
Terra, Levís. In Engliíh, " Sacred B o O K IV -
" to the Manes of Lucius Rufinus
" Fulvianus, who lived 56 years.
" Julia Aurelia raifed this monu-
" ment to her well-deferving huf-
" band, who is here laid. May the
" earth be light upon him 1"
D-M-S.
L-RVFINVS-FVLVIANVS.
ANN-LVI'IVLIA-AVRE*
LIA-M-P-M-B-M-H-S-E*
S-T-T-L*
Another infcription on a tomb-
ílone, quoted by Father Roa, found
in Malaga, but Which is no longer to
be met with, is as follows:
YOL. IL P £>-M.

2IO A JOURNEY FROM
MALAGA.
Ei^hteenth
Stone of
Malaga.
DM.
Q¿CAECILI0-Q:F'F0RTVNATO
PATRI-OPT-ET-SANTISS*
Q:V-ANN-XXVII-DIES.XX.
H-S-E-S-T-T-L.
This laft is of little further ufe-
than to enlarge our knowledge of
the ancient Román families in
Malaga.
Father Morejon has left us a copy
of a very remarkable infcription of
Lucius P. Fortunatus, who, for the
benefit of himfelf, his fon, and heirs,
born in the city of Malaga, rebuilt or
repaired the Gymnaíium, which may
be either interpreted a place for the
exerciíing of the public wreítlers, or
a hall in a public fchool or coliege,
accordine

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 21 1
áccording to Cicero: " Gymnaíia
" philofophorum foliote [»]."
LVCI VS'POMPONI'FORTVNATVS'SIEI.ET-MALACiT.SVIS.
POSTERlS-QVE'EORVM-ET-M'AQyiIIO-FILIO-OlPTIM.ET'SVlS.
FILIIS-POSTERIS.QVE-EORVM-GYMNASIVM.RESTITVIT"
The form of the ftone íhews it to
have been placed over the front of
the door of the building.
The following monument, copied
by Janus Gruter, (page 413) is no
where now to be found. " It was
" erecled by the order of Quintiá Ful-
" vi a Opiola, agreeably to her Will,
" by Caiiis Appius Superites, and
" Caninius Monianus, her heirs, to
" Quintus Fulvius Opianus, iEdile of
" the city."
[u] De Orat. i. 13.
P 2, q^VL-
g£ B00K IV.
Nineteenth
Stone of
Malaga.

2,12 A JOURNEY FROM
MALACA.
Twentieth
Stone of
Malaga.
Twenty-firft
Stone of
Malaga.
QJFVLVIO«Q:F-OPIA'AED«
C^F-OPIOLA-TEST-PON-IVS'
C-APPIVS-SVPERSTES-CANINIVS'
MONIANVS-H-P.C
The fame author (page 900) has
preferved the remnant of another.
QjAELI'ZENONIS*
The convent of Bare-foot Carmelite
Friars, fcated at the weftern extremity
of the town, near the fea, was raifed
on the ruins of a Román building.
There was found the bafe of a ftatue,
erected, by the body of fiíhermen and
failors of Malaga, to their patrón
Quintus iEmilius Proculus.
O^AEMI

tJIBRALTAR TO MALAGA, 213
Q^AEMILIO-PROCVLO-
MVLTARVM'PISCATI*
ONVM-SCAPHAR-
PATRONO.
NAVICVLAR-MALACIT-
P'D-Q;
This perfon was undoubtedly of
the noble family of Lucius Yalerius
Proculus; and the infcription, which
has been never p-ibliíhed, is a íignal
monument of the ancient great trade
of this port -by fea, and is men-
tioned by Strabo, who tells us, that
Malaga was the grand ftaple mart
of falted tunny íiíli, not oníy for
Italy, but to the oppoñte Barbary
fhore.
P 3 In
Booic IV.
Twenty fecond
Stone of
Malaga.

a 14 A JOURNEY FROM
M a l a g a -, In Rome there is a tomb- ílone be-
longing to thejQuinquennalis, or quin-
quennial director of the Malaga com-
pany of falt-fiíh merchants, eíta-
bliíhed in that city; where is
likewife another of Lucius Maius
Phcebus, Pourfuivant to the high
court of judges, and a merchant that
traded in Spaniíh oil brought from
the province of Beetica.
P-CLOD1VS-ATÍ1EN10- • • NliGOTIANS-
SALSAR1VS-Q¿Q^CORPOR1S>NEGOTIANTJVM-
MALAC1TANORVM-ET-SCANTI A-SVCCESSA*
CONIVX-EIVS-VIVI-FECERVNT-SIBI-ET-LIBE
RIS-SVIS'ET-LIBERTIS-LIBERTABVS-QVE'SVIS'
POSTER1SQVE- EORVMINFR-P.XIIMN'AGRO P-XH-
£>• M?

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A , 215
D- M'
L-MARIO-PHOEBO-
VIATORI-TRIBVNICIG-
DECVRIAE'MAIORIS*
MERCATORI-OLEI HIS­
PAN I-EX-PRO VIN CÍA-
BAETIC A*
Ancient Malaga was miílrefs of an R .
Amphitheatre : Father Morejon in- ;
forms us it was placed in the Placuela
or fquare of the Nunnery of La Paz,
juíl under the hill of Gibralfaro.
When that convent was building,
they found the foundations of this
amphitheatre, with fome of the fcats
and fteps, entire: part of them i with
fome pains traced. Its form was not
femicircular, likethofe of Carteia and
Acinino, but entirely round "11
P 4
BOOK IV.
Seeond Stons
af Rom».

216 A JOURNEY FROM
M a l a c a - clofed like the Circus Maximus at
Rome.
A Puktes! e * digging the foundations of the
church of the Jefuits, near the great
fquare, was difcovered a fubterraneous
catacomb, 15 feet long, 8 wide, and
of the fame height; in the íides of
it were many nitches full of fraall
bones, I fancy of children, whofe
bodies neither Romans ñor Greeks
burnt, except they had got their
teeth, as we learn from Pliny:
^ Hominem priufquam genito dente
" cremari, mos gentium non effc [w]. n
Not far from this was another
fepulchre, wherein was an urn of
earthen ware, and glazed white, con*-
[v>]¡ Lib. vii.
taining

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 2I7
taming aíhes and bones half-burnt, B o O K IV -
and by it ílood a bottle of the fame
ware, but fmaller [x~], On the
28th of February 1722, as the
workmen were digging the founda­
tions of a wall belonging to the ca-
thedral church of Malaga, at a very
little depth they found 83 gold Coins Gold Caín.
from Auguftus tc« Commodus.
The Román families, commemo-, RonB, l, F , ínn "
[XJ 1 took drawings of them,
' Lcí in Malaga.
rated in the foregoing infcríptions,
and fettled in Malaga, are as fpllows:
1. Lucius VALERIUS PROCULUS,
Román citizen of the Quirine tribe,
and Pro-conful of Bostica : the Vale-
rian branch was defcended from the
3abines, and we íind both that and
the

2 I 8 A JOURNEÍ FROM
M a l a g a - the Proculi.in the.Confular fafts, and
on the Confular coin.
2. QUINTUS ÍEMILIUS PROCULUS,
of the fame family.
3. Lucius C&CILIUS BASSUS, of
the Quirine tribe.
4. LUCIUS RUFINUS FULVIANUS,
of. the Galerian tribe. Pliny the
younger mentions the Rufini as per-
ions of eminence and charat~ter [y];
he expreífly fays, they were foreigners
and not Italians.
5. Lucius OCTAVIUS RUSTICUS,
6. Lucius GRANIUS BALBUS,
! y] Epiít. xxüi. Lib. 9.
7. QUIN-

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A .
7. QUINTUS FULVIUS OPIANUS,
^Edile of the city of Malaga.
We have feen the family of Ruf-
ticus propagated all over the pro-
vince; that of Balbus was all-power-
ful bóth in Andalucía and Rome
during the age of Julitis Caefar, and of
Auguren s; one of the principal mini-
fbers of the former was of this family;
and during the contefts of the latter
for the empire, they were abfolute
maíters of Gadix, and appropriated
the treafury thereof to his fervice.
8. Lucius GRANIUS CERIO, was
probablv of the Balbi family; the
Granii were illuílrious in Callahorra,
whofe medals bear teílimony of their
having enjoyed their chief oíñces.
9. QüIN
219
BOOK IV.

A J O U R - N E Y F R O M
9. QUINTUS SERVILIUS.
10. Lucius SERVILÍUS SPERATUS.
11. MARCUS LUCRETIUS GURÚS,
The family of Lucretius, fo famous
in the Román híílory, appear from
medals to have been likewife eíta-
bliíhed in Tortofa, Saragoza, ana*
Clunia.
12. QUINTUS CALCILIUS FORTU-
NATUS.
13. LUCIUS POMPONIUS FORTU-
NATUS.
14. MAROUS AQUILIUS.. He
is named on the fame coin with
Cíecilius, as Duumviri of Turiafo;
and -

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . S.2I
and the ñame of the latter is on B o o K IV -
medals of Saragoza.
15. VALERIA MACRINA.
16. JULIA AURELIA.
17. CAIUS APPIUS SUPERSTES.
18. CANINIUS MONIANUS.
19. QUINTUS ¿ELIUS ZENO.
This country received the light p ^ ri ^¿^°P
of the gofpel in the earlieft ages ln3 ° 2 '
of Chriftianity. Patrick, biíhop of
Malaga, governed its church about
the end of the third century; there
are proofs of his having aííifted in
the council of Granada, held in 302.
Among the monuments lately dif-
2 eovered

2 2 2 A J O U R N E Y F R O M
M a l a g a -- coyered there, it appears he iuffered
Malaga con-
martyrdom in that city during the
perfecution of Diocleíian.
quered by the After the declenfion of the Román
v>othsui57i.
power, the Goths were the next
mafters of Malaga. Leovigildo, their
king, took the town by íiege in the
year 5 7 r. Leovigildus rex (fays the
chronicle of thofe times) Loca Baíti--
taniae, & Malacitanas urbis, repulíis
militibus vaítat.
S &op U of Ma- Severus, biíhop of Malaga, fiou-
laga in 5 So.
riíhed in his time; a prelate celebrated
by Trithemius, in his catalogue of
eccleíiaítical writers, for his learning
h¡S Works, and virtues; he wrote a treatife againft
the Arians, who had then over-run
Spain, a book De Virginitate, ad*
dreíTed to. his fifter, and a colleclion
of epiftles.
The

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 223
The irruption of the Goths and B o O K IV -
Vandals into Spain was a fatal ftroke^í^^
to this province. Thofe Barbarians, G'OÜI
knowing no other fcience but the
fword, overthrew every monument of
ancient merit, and ftrewed on the
earth its literary producís, which
they trampled on and disfigured,
notwithftanding thofe feeds of Ro­
mán virtue that had taken fuch
deep and firm root in this generous
foil, and which, as Strabo teítifiés,
united and equalled the Snaniard with K "m.in v;* ^
thc
"*" never extinci
the Román, fo as not to admit the ,
leaft diitinction between them; they,
I fay, were to be trod down but never
eradicated. The unprejudiced eye will
difcern, in the Modern Spaniards, the
magnanimity, couragc, and conftancy
of their forefathers, during a ílruggle
of 700 years with the Moors; their
ambición
n S i , s , n -

224 A JOURNEY FROM
Ma1 - a0a - ambition to equal the conquerors of
the worlcl in the vaft plan of their
kings of the houfe of Auítria; and
the large ítrides taken by them in
the 16th and 17th century towards
a fecond uni-verfal monarchy.
guage, Drefs, To this day they bear indelible
and Manners
preferved in m arks of a Román origin in their
Spam. O
language, drefs, and domeftic uteníils;
the former has preferved more of the
Latin idiom, grammar, and pronun-
ciation, than any nation in Europe,
not excepting the prefent inhabitants
of Italy ; in fo much that you may
write whole fentences of puré Spaniíh,
compofed entirely of Latin words.
They only have retained the ufe of
the Román Toga: ít is well knownthat
the Romana had two dreíTes; in the
houíe

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A í 2l¿j
houfe they wore the veítis or waift- BooK IV -
coat; and, when they went abroad,
they put on the toga or cloak: this'
drefs they called Foreníis.
" Veíte non temeré alia quam
" domefticá ufus eft, ab uxore fo-
" rore &: filia neptibufque confectáó
" Et forenfia autem & calceos nun-
u quam non intrá cubiculum habuit,
u ad fubitos repentinofque cafus pa-
« rata[s]."
Juft fo the Spaniards: in the houfes?^ cioaL
a black waiílcoat contents them; in
theftreet their cloak of cloth in wínter,
and camblet during the fummer, is
their conftant drefs: their manner of
earrying the cloak is graceful and con-
[z] Sueton. in Vita Aug.
YOL- II. Q venient;

A J O U R N E Y FROM
M a l a s a - venient; they gather it in plaits under
the left hand, and frequently, ef-
pecially the young gallants, throw
the flap of the other íide under that
arm likewife, leaving their right dif-
engaged.
Before luxury had baniíhed all fen-
timents of gallantry out of this coun-
try, the Spaniard carried a broad
fword under his cloak, ever ready to
defend his amorous pretenfions, or
aflift thofe whom he íhould meet
overpowered by numbers ; in thefe
rencounters t;he cloak was wrapt round
the left arm, in the manner of a
íhield, after the Román cuftom, as
we learn from Appian [a], who thus
reprefents the murtherers of Julius
[a] Lib. x.
Csefar

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 22?
Caefar fallying out of the fenate- BooK I Y-
houfe
Ñumbers of the Román families B ; omin Fa l flli ;
lies exima"
furvived and preferved themfelves inSpainv
and their ñames through every revo­
lé] ít Would be endlefs to enumérate the in-
ftances wherein the Spaniards have preferved tríe
manners and cUÍloms of the Romans. I íhall
mention two, which at prefent oecur to me, and
muíl ftrike every one who travels over Spain.
At the funerals of their fríends, in the houfe of
the deceafed, and on the very day of the bury-
ing, they make a grand and moíl eoftly feaft, to
which all thofe who attended the funeral pro-
ceflion are invited; you may be fure the mourners
are thereby multipíied. Again, the wife never
affumes her husband's hame iri Spain, Or lofes Her
own by marriage the fon is at liberty to make
ufe of and be called by either one or the Other j
he generaíly chufes that which is of the beft
family, according to the Spaniíh pioverb¿
El Hijo de ruyrí Padre
Torna el apellido de la madre.
Q 2 llltioH

228 A J O U R N E Y FROM
M a l a c a - lution of this country; and to this day
their defcendants are difperfed all
over the kingdom; fome of whom
have fallen under our notice.
Neither has this province loíl that
elegant tafte for polite literature,
which flouriíhed here in the remoteft
antiquity, and which, in the Román
age, gained immortal fame to their
countrymen, Columella, the two Sé­
necas, Lucan, Martial, Turanius Grac-
cula, and Pomponius Mela [c],
Revkai of ^s f o 0 n a s e nti r e reduclion of
Learning m
Bxuca. -]yroors haci taken the arms of the
[f] Martial has preferved the ñames of three
other Spaniíh writers, natives of Gades, Emérita,
and Bilbilis, whofe works have not reached us:
Gaudent jocofas Canio fuo Gades;
Emérita Deciano meo.
Te, Liciniane, gloriabitur noílra,
Nec me tacebit Bilbilis.
Lib. i. Epig. 62.
Spaniards

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 229
Spaniards out of their hands, learning B o O K l v "
began once more to íhoot up its long-
negle&ed bays in Bastica [J], Am­
brollo Morales, and Antonio Nebrixa,
both natives of it, led the van; and,
íincetheacceífionof the houfeof Bour-
[_d] Several ©f my learned friends, and thofe
for whofe opinión I have the greateíl deference,
here required of mean account of the language,
Jiterature, poetry, and dramatic works of the
Spaniards; but as an eífay on thefe fubjects, if
treated with the care and attention they merit,
would have been much too bulky for this work,
and coníiderably retarded its publication, I pro-
pofe, if my circnmílances and health permit, to
undertake it with my beít care and abilities.
Perhaps I may one day be employed in that
country; if not, I will fpare no expence or labour
to draw from it thofe materials which may ítill
be wanting to me for its execution ; as for the
oíd chronicles and hiftories, of Spain, I believe I
may boaít of pofíeHing the campleateft and beíl
colleítion in England.
Q 3 b o n >

230 A J Q U R N E Y FROM
M a l a c a - bon, an academy of Belles Lettres [Y]
] ; e f Maiagl-" has been eítabliíhed at Seville, the
court and capital of the province ; in
DonChriMovaí which leamed body is Dr. Don Chrif-
Conde.
toval Medina Conde, canon of the
church of Malaga, and honorary acá-
demician of the royal academy of
Belles Lettres at Barcelona,
D ££Í rc ° Don Francifco Barban de Caftro,
prebend of the fame cathedi al, is like-
wife not only a very learned man him-
felf, but a protector and patrón of all
. thofe who feek to proñt by his expe-
rience and exquifite judgement; to him,
as welf as to the canon Conde, I am inr
ffj They did me the honour to fend me a
volunte, in large quarto, of the publications of
this academy, It is ftyled " Memorias Literarias
de la Real Academia Sevillana de Buenas
Letras dedicado al Rey." En Sevilla 1773.
debte4

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 231
debtedformany curiousSpaniíhbooks, B o O K IV -
manufcripts, and coins, with which they
favoured me with a liberal hand, and
which I here gratefully acknowledge.
Don Thomas Cábelo, now of the Do £ £ mM
cathedral of Granada, and long re-
íident in that of Malaga, is well
known in the antiquarian world for his
numerous cabinet of medals; out of
which he gave me two dozen, with
his ufual politenefs and generoíity,,
Father Milla, of the order of Santo Father M¡iia.
Domingo, left behind him an hifto-
rical account of Malaga, chiefly re-
garding its eccleíiaítical ítate in ma-
nufcript; and Father Roa, of the col- Fatller Rei<
lege of Jefuits, another, which I faw
in the hands of Don Chriíloval Conde,
part printed and part in manufcript; a
Q 4 laborious

233 A JOURXEY FROM
M a l a g a - laborions work, which will foon be
coníigned over to oblivion, as the
Court of Madrid has called in all the
works of his order. This learned Je-
fuit died in Montilla in 1637. The
Ve % 0 ' hiftoryof Pedro Morejón I have had
frequent occafion to quote.
S Í7£ U (£ths Returning from this digreflion to
s^au'r m the period of the Goths empire in
Spain, we íhall only obferve, that it
was of very íhort duration : that na-
tion, captivated and feduced by the
enchanting foftnefs of this climate, fo
different from their native cold and the
fterile regions of the North, foon de-
generated into a profligacy of manners,
and the moft abandoned liccntioufncis
in all orders and degrees, which, ener-
vating and corrupting the whole body
pf the ílate, deprived it of all ftrength
and

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 233
and courage, and left Spain an eafy B o 0 K IV -
prey to the victorious Saracens, who
in 715 got poffeiíion of Malaga, 1 ^
under Muía and Tarif Abenzarca, 00rsin715 "
generáis of Ulit Calif, of the Arabs,
in the 4-th year of his reign, accord-
ing to the archbiíhop Don Rodrigo.
" Anno Imperif Ulit quarto Mufa
Abennocayr princeps Milicias Ulit
regis, miíit Tharic Abenzarca, cum
" exercitu citra mare, qui et Rode-
" ricum ultimum regem Gothorum,
í* bello fugavit &: Hifpanias fubju-
" gavit: Demum Mufa veniens in
" Hifpaniam civitates plurimas oc-
" cupavit, & infinitas divitias con-
" gregavit[/]."
The wretched fíate of the arts and St tc o f l
hcicnces unde:
fciqnces, under the Gothic kings of f T
[/] HIFT. Arab. CAP. IX.
Spain,
•oins.
F E E T
HSC

*34 A JOURNEY FROM
M a l a c a - Spain, may be judged of by their
góld coin, miferably executed, badly
Itruck, and the ore of bafe alloy; to
which laft circumftance, as I before
have had occaíion to obferve, we are
indebted for their having reached
specimensof u s > ^ s workmaníhip of all
them. *
thefe coins is equally rude and íimi-
lar, I have only given plates of St.
Hermenegildo, eldeft fon to king Leo-
vigildo, who conquered Malaga; of
Reccaredo I. his fecond fon and fuc-
cefíbr, from whom the Spaniíh mo-
narchs deduce their pedigree,andwhofe
memory is highly venerated in Spain,
having been the firft of the Gothic
kings that abjured Arianifm; and of
Rodrigo, who loft the kingdom and his
life in the fatal battle of Guadalete,
where that efíeminate king appeared
irtounted in an ivory car, his crown
i on

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 235
on his head, and cloathed in royal B o O K IV -
robes, with all the ílate of an Eaftern
monarch,
The next fcene that naturally pre-
fents itfelf to our view, is the Ion?
reign of the Mahometans in Malaga,
containing the annals of their princes
and governors for upwards of feven
hundred years.
C H A ? -

236 A JOURNEY FROM
C II A P T E R II,
ANNALS OF MALAGA,
HE flouriíhing íituation of Ma­
laga, at the period of its devolving
to the power of the Moors, may be
judged of from the defcription the
Arabian hiftorian, Ralis, has left us.
He praifes its raiíins for the fineft in
the world, as well as the bread and
.flax; for all which commodities the
territory of Malaga was celebrated
abose all others; he alio mentions
the mildnefs of the chínate.
" EMa,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 237
" E Malaga yace fobre la Mar, y Boolc 1Y - ¿
" es el Mejor de Frutos que quantos
" ai en el Mundo, é de buenas Pafas,
í { é de buena' Se'da, é de yerbas é Pan.
" E otroli, fu Termino es honrado é
" del fale el Mejor Sirgo de todo el
" Mundo, é dende lieban á todas las
" Partes de Efpana. E otroíi, el
" mejor Lino, que há en todo el
" Mundo, é mas probado entre todas
" las Mujeres, é en todo el Ano no
" mengua fruta [g]. n
Malaga, under the yoke of the
Saracens, being excellently well fitu-
ated oppoiite to Barbary, became, in
a few centuries, fo rich and populous,
as to difdain the dominión of the
kings of Cordova, and to ereót their
l¿] Rafis, Hift. Hifp.
city

£38 A J O U R N E Y FROM
^r*AGA F a n c * te riitory into a kingdom in-
dependant of the reír, of Spain. The
firít prince who obtained that honour
Abenhamith, was Hali-Abenhamitb, lord of Ceuta,
firft K-ing of
Malaga, 1010. who paífed over to Spain, and was
proclaimed king of Malaga about the
year i o i o. He was killed by treafon
in his bath, fe ven years after.
Hyahya, fe- His fon Hyahya fucceeded Haly:
cond Kingóf ,
J J 4
Ma!aS!,,02, -and, in 1021, the Moors of Cordova,
harraíTed by inteítine broils, crowned
him king of that empire í but he,
* being biaíTed by a partial love for his
native Malaga, refufed to reíide in
Cordova; and, on returning hither,
the Cordovans eleóted another king
in his room; and Hyahya contented
himfelf with the crown of Malaga,
which he did not long enjoy, being
killed by Ifmaei.
Idriz,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 239
Idriz, únele to the deceafed Hyahya, B o 0 l c I V -
and brother to Haly the firft king oí^J^L
Malaga, who was at that time governor
of Ceuta, hearing the unhappy end
of his nephew, carne over with a
great power to revenge it in 1023 ;
and not only obtained the crown of
Malaga, but enlarged its dominión
over Seville, Carmona, Alcalá, and
Almería. He enjoyed the crowns of
Seville and Malaga but one year, and
died a natural death.
T T r 3 • r IbnuElBaitar,
Hencerorward notlung íeems wor- Nat¡ v e of
. Malaga, died
thy of notice in the annals of Malaga M i»»6.
for above two eenturies, the dominión
Of it being abforbed in the reigns of
the Mooriíh kings of Seville and Cor-
dova. In the 12th century flouriíhed
here the learned and excellent phy-
fician Ibnu El Baitar, who, having
travelled

©4° A J 0 U R N E Y FROM
ALS OF travelled over all África and Aíia,
LACA. '
Farachen Arrahaez
of
Malaga in
returned to fettle, and died in his
native Malaga, in the year of Ghriíl
1216, leaving behind him three
large folio volumes of botany and
phyfic.
In the year 1262, was governor
mawga m a n (j Q£ jyjaiagaj a moft. n ob] e and
valiant prince, called Abi Sayd Farakh,
or Farachen, who was defcended
directly from Mahamete Abn Sayd,
firft king of Granada, and founder of
the houfe of Alahamares ; in whofe
defcent the kingdom remained till the
final deftraótion of their monarchy
in Spain. This Moor was a valiant
chief, and, although ailied by blood
and marriage to the king of Granada,
he maintained himfelf in a perfect
independance; to fupport it he made

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 24I
an alliance with the Infant Don B o O K IV -
Sancho, of Cafrille, and became his
vafíal: The fame year he built the
fumptuous palaces of the Alcafaba^ A ] ¿^*
and Gibralfaro, and died full of days
and glory, but in what year is un-
certain.
In 1303, we fínd his fon Farakh^ífaez *ÍÉ
Malaga.
2d of that ñame, reigning in Malaga,
and preparing with a fleet and army
for an expedition againít Ceuta, the
ancient patrimony of the kings of
Malaga. The Mooriíh chronicles fpeak
of his valiant acts, and of his fuccefs
in taking that city ; which the king c^ui^.
of Morocco recovered the year after,
with the afliftance of the fleet of the
king of Arragon Don Jayme.
VOL. II. R Farakh
in

242 A JOURNEY FROM
ANNALS OF Farakh II. was married to the fifter
MALAGA.
of Muley Mahamete, king of Gra­
nada, who being dethroned and ílain
ifmaei, Son ofby his brother; Ifmael, fon of Farakh,
Farachen II
afcends che w as called in by the inhabitants of
Throne of
Granada Granada, to revenge the death of his
3 3*
únele, and drive out the ufurper: he
accordingly marched to the capital,
and gr.ined a pitched battle, with a
powerful army of Africans, headed
by Ofmin, a valiant captain of the
blood royal of Morocco. Ifmael took
poíTeffion of the throne, in right of
his mother, with the univerfal confent
of the whole kingdom, being the
firft prince that ever reigned in Gra­
nada of a female line. This hap-
pened in 1313.
^T¿G a o r - When Ifmael left Malaga, he con-
Ega? m fided the town to a ftrong garrifon of
Gómeles,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 243
Gómeles, who were ever after eíla- BooK IV -
bliíhed in Malaga. At the time
of the laíl liege they amounted to
15000.
Ifmael maintained conftant and I í l s A a s '
great wars with the Chriftians, who
becoming daily too íbrong for him,
and fearing the total deftruction of
the Mooriíh dominión in Spain, he
called to his aííiftance the Emperor
of Morocco, yielding up in favour of
his fon Abomelique, a part of his ter-
ritories, as we have feen in the annals
of Gibraltar.
About the fame time, he eained a IIis vianryin
7 0 the Vale of
íignal vi&ory over the Infants of l^of june,
Caftille Don Juan, and Don Pedro, 1317 '
[regents of the kingdom during the
minority of Alonzo XI.] in the Vale
Ra of

244 A J O U R N E Í FROM
A MALAG° f °f Granada. The battle was fought
juanTndD°nprinces loft their lives; Don Pedro
Pedro.
was fuffocated with heat and fatigue;
and the news of his death threw his
únele the Infant Don Juan into fuch
a panick that he fell fpeechlefs from
his horfe; he was remounted, but
the confuíion was fo great, that he
expired and fell once more to the
ground, without their perceiving it:
the body was carried to Granada, and
honourably ufed by Ifmael.
H ¿ h S?" H e oráercd it to be laid in ítate
ment of the i • c . i i n
infanta under a canopy, in one or the halls
Corple.
of the Alhambra, not only permitting
the Spaniards to come and receive it,
but appointed a troop of his own
gentlemen to conduct the convoy as
far as the frontiers of Andalucía,
4 therein

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 24$
therein remembering the noble blood
from which he fprung [/],. and
íhewing an example of generoíity to-
wards the remains of an implacable
enemy to the Mooriíh ñame.
B o O K r i L
This vi&ory was followed by the He tofl e 3 s Ií ar'
taking of the town of Martos, which
ílriking a terror into the frontier
towns of Andalucía, they fued for
[/] Ifmael was great grandfon of Aben Zayd,
firíl king of Granada, founder of the houfe of
the Alahamares, whofe pifture I faw on one fide
of the genealogical tree of this family, preferved
in the royal houfe of Generalife of Granada,
under which is the following infcription, wherein
he is ftyled Abenhut, but in Marmol Aben
Zayd. " This is Abenhut king of Granada,
" Cordova, and of the mountains of Andalucia,
pf the race of the kings of Sarragofa and
" Arragon, and of the Goths, and was a king
" renowned for juftice, truth, and liberality;"
fo that Ifmael juftly boaíled of his defcent from
íhe Goths.
R 3 and

246 A JOURNEY FROM
"MÁLAGA" obtained a fufpeníion of arms;
^¿Triftia^s and Iñnael returned victorious to
Hereturns vic- Granada, where, inftead of reaping
torious to
Granea. £ n e fruit of his fuccefs in the arms of
an honourable peace, he periíhed by
the treafon of his own fubje&s and
family.
F wkha n capdle In the aífair of Martos was taken
captive by his couíin Mahorriet, fon
to the Arrahaez of Algeziras, a beau-
tiful young Spaniíh virgin, with
whom he immediately fell in love.
The fame paííion being excited in
the breaft of the king, at the light
of her, the amorous monarch, by
prayers, entreaties, and threats, en^
deavoured in yain to perfuade his
Takes her by kinfman to relinquiíh his fair prize ;
forcé from h

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 247
afperated king; Mahomet, forced to B o o i c iy -
yield, diífembled his refentment, and
with his father and nephew entered
into a confpiracy that coft Ifmael his Isí!ainb y him
•*• j 1322.
life.
Thefe three going up to the Al- A f h ! s i°
hambra, demanded audience of the
king, who, fufpecling nothing, carne
forth to them, attended only by Aben
Alcama, the Alguazil major, or captain
of his guards; after the uJ^ual falu-
tations, they proceeded with the king
to his appartment, Mahomad and his
fon walking before, and the captain
of the guards immediately behind
with the Arrahaez's brother; as they
paffed through a narrow entry, Ma­
homad and his fon ftopped íhort,
drew the hangers they had fecreted
in the íleeves of their algubas, and
R 4 begau

A JOURNEY FROM
began to wound the king on the
head; the Alguazil, drawing his al-
fange, paid no attention to the third
traitor, who attacked him behind,
but, valiantly defending the. king,
drove the Arrahaez and his fon into
an inner room, the door of which he
faftened orí them, and attacked the
other (who in the mean while had
given Jfmael his death's wound in
the íhoulder) and forced the villain
to take refuge in another apartment,
which helikewife locked; then turn-
ing to the fainting king, he carrjed him
to his mother, in whofe arms he foon
expired. His death the good Alcalde
revenged, not only on the three
aflaííins, but on all thofe concerned
in the confpiracy. In 1771, I was
íhewn at Granada the véry paíTage
where this tragedy was ac"ted, and
Jfmael

A JOURNEY FROM
began to wound the king on the
head; the Alguazil, drawing h;s al-
fange, paid no attention to the third
traitor, who attacked him behind,
but, valiantly defending the. king,
drove the Arrahaez and his fon into
an inner room, the door of which he
faítened on them, and attacked the
other (who in the mean while had
given Ifmael his death's wound in
the íhoulder) and forced the villain
to take refuge in another apartment,
which helikewife locked; then turn-
ing to the fainting king, he carried him
to his mother, in whofe arms he foon
expired. His death the good Alcalde
revenged, not only on the three
afíaílins, but on all thofe concerned
in.the confpiracy. In 1771, I was
íhewn at Granada the véry pafTage
where this tragedy was a¿ted, and
Jfmael

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 249
Ifmael fell a facrifice to the fury of B o o K IV -
exafperated love.
Thus periíhed Ifmael, fon of Ma- HlsIffue '
laga, after a profperous reign of nine
years and feven months; of the three
fons he left behind him, named Ifmael,
Farachen, and Juzaf, the firíl and
Jaft íucceeded him; of their a¿ts we
have already treated in the annals of
Gibraltar.
He lies buried in La Rauda, or WhcreburIc

1$0 A J O U R N E Y FROM
A MALAG° f porféd
in the reign of Philip II. and
remained there 30 years; at prefent
it is ítripped of every ornament, aban-
doned both by Moors and* Chriftians.
Over the door is ftill to be feen the
fóllowing verfe of the Alcorán:
" The permanent kingdom, the
" honotir without diminution of its
" owner: There is no other God
« but God."
This laft phrafe, which is the
grand article of the Mooriíh faith, is
repeated in every part of the room.
At the heads of the fepulchre of
each king, were originally placed up~
right four alabafter ftones, with in-^
fcriptions on one íide, and epitaphs.
in

GIERALTAR TO MALAGA. ¿51
ín verfe on the other, written in gold BoOK: IV -
letters on a bme ground. Louis de
Marmol, who was well verfed in the
Arabian idiom, faw and tranílated
them into Spaniíh. That of Ifmael
was as follows:
M O O F
" In the ñame of God clement ;]?L
" and merciful.
" This is the ífepulchre of the
" glorious king, who died indefence
" of the law of God; the conqueror
" of the Chriftians; the exalter of the
" law of the chofen and beloved
" prophet; the juít, the valorous,
" the warlike governor; lord of the
" army, and executor of the law;

»52
ANNALSOF ÍC
MALAGA.
A JOURNEY FROM
nour of God; arm of the forces;
light of the cities; he that always
kept his fword íharp for the de-
fence ofthelaw; he whofe bofom
glowed with the pious love of his
God.
" The warlike and triumphant
44 king, by the grace of God, governpr
" of the Moors, Abil Walid Ifmael,
< { fon of the excellent, mpft yaliant, of
" an high and puré race, the glorjous
" deceafed Abi Ceyed Farakh, fon of
" the matchlefs and chofen defenders
" of the law of falvatiqn.
" The deceafed Abil Gualid IfmaeJ,
" the fon of Nacer.
" God glorify him with his good

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 453
" moft healthful fuccour of his mercy, B o O K IV -
" that he may always remember
" and confefs, THAT THERE IS NO
" OTHER GOD BUT GOD.
" He warred in defence of the law
" of God, who gave him vidfory over
" the territories and cities, and the
" death of the unbelieving Kings his
" enemies, which will be accounted
" to him in that day, when we fliall
" be all fummoned before the tribu-
" nal of God: w r ho was pleafed to
" put an end to his days, when he
" was moft fit to die; and out of his
" infinite mercy called him to him-
" felf, having the duft of the militia
" in the plaits of his garments, after
" a life fpent in fighting the battles
ct of the Lord. He was born (God
" grant him his grace) in the for-
" túnate

Á JOURNEY FROM
" túnate hour of the break of day,
" on Friday the I7th of the month,
" of Xaguel, in the year pf the He-
" gira 677. He was proclaimed
" King on Thurfday the 27th day
" of the month of Xaguel 713. He
" died on Monday the 2Óth day of
" the month of Argel El Fard 725.
" BleíTed and exalted be he whQ
" reigns and endures for ever, who,
" ordamed a final period to all his.
" creatures, that they may know an.d
" confefs, that He is the trae God,
u and that THERE IS NO OTHER Gop
" BUT GOD."
On the other fide of the tomb-
ftone, is a long piece of poetry, a tranf-
lation of which would be too tedious,
and lofe all its original merit. It is a
2 panegyrick

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 2$5
panegyrick on the king, who is B o O K IV -
therein, according to the Mahometan
belief, fuppofed to he received into
Paradife; and the blood and fweat of
his brow wiped ofF by the beautiful
hands of virgins, who give him to
drink of the living waters of heaven.
His murtherers the devil is to feed
.with the putrid excrements of thofe
condemned in hell.
This monument contams an abre- ontheMonumcnr.
viated hiítory of the life of Ifmael,
his family, defcent, and principal ac-
tions; the kings he is faid to have ílain
are doubtlefs the two Infants in the
Vale of Granada. The metaphor of
his dying, with the duít of the mili-
tia in the plaits of his garment, is
noble; to underítand it we muft
obferve, that in the Mooriíh law the
whole

A J O U R Ñ E Y FROM 1
° F whole body of the people are called
a militia, not as the Chriftian church
to fight againft the devil and his
works, but a furious fecf who are
bound to extirpate all thofe who
diüent from them.
The title of Nácar, from whom
all the Granada Kings affected to de-
fcend, was of the fame import and
efteem among them, as that of Csefar
to the Román emperors; they are
often, in their poetry and infcriptions
at Granada, called íimply by that
ñame, of which we have numerous
inítances in thofe exiítíng to this day
in the Alhambra. One in particular
I remember in the fuperb hall of
Gomares over a window, which, for
its beauty and elegant tura of thought,
well

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 257
well deferves here to be repeated; it
is compofed of five verfes of eleven
fyllables, after the manner of the
Spaniíh Quintillas, and alludes to a
garden and fountain juít under the
window:
B o o K I V-
" I am a garden of plants excelling in beauty y 1 ^
" and harmony;
" Look at my bafon, can any thing equal its
" cryftalline water ?
" You will not find any thing comparable to
" me, fave the moon in its full.
" And Nafer, whofe I am, is the fun, that com-
" municates to me my light.
" Nothing is capable of eclipíing me, for I will
" conquer every obftacle to behold his face."
The royal houfe of Malaga being
thus eftabliíhed on the throne of Gra­
nada, the aunáis of this city are once
more mixed with thofe of the king-
dom; henceforward Malaga, the he-
VOL. Ií. S reditary

258 A JOURNEY- FROM
- A MILAGA F reditary royalty of the kings, was
An^Stf' In 1480, we find Arrahaez of Ma-
Malaga 1480., , ... .
laga, Albo Iíardil, by others named
Abi Abdala, brother to Abel Hafcen,
king of Granada, a valiant chief, who
Wins the Bat-111 1483, won the famous battle called
tic of Las
always governed in their ñame by a
prince of the blood.
Ab^n ll0 Naíar, In 143 2, Mahomad Aben Nazar,
Months in defcendant of Ifmael, being expelled
Malaga 143i.
from the kingdom, fled to Malaga,
where he was received and protected,
and reigned during the íhort life of
his antagonift, who died íix months
after.
Liomas de De las Liornas de Malaga, in the
Malaga 1483- °
mountains to the Eaíl of Malaga,
againft the Marquis of Cádiz, wherein
periíhed moít of the Chriftians, with
three

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 259
three brothers and two nephews of BooK IV *
'the marquis. This overthrow hap~
pened in the month of May.
It feems the peculiar fortune of the ^ cends * e
A Throne 01
Arrahaez's of Malaga to be called to ^¡? á *
the crown of Granada in 1485. Albo
Hardil, with the common confent of
the people, mounted the throne in
the room of his brother, who was
oíd, infirm, and blind, to the pre-
judice of his nephew Abdeli, who was
detefted for a diíhonourable peace
he had made with the Chriftians,
On his road from Malaga to the Rou " 9 o S f*
O niaras anu
capital, he fell in with 90 Spaniards, fla >" sthcm '
who had made an excurfion out of .
Alhama, and cut off their heads,
which were hung to the tails of his
foldiers' horfes; with thefe barbarous
S a trophies

2,60 A JOURNEY FROM
"MALAGA° f tro phies he made his triumphal entry
HisEntry into Granada,
m t o
amidít the íhouts of
the Capital. populace, who therein could not
difcern their own more fwift de-
ítruótion.
ScTcov^i About the fame time, the empire
Toío-x 3 ,' of the Moors in Spain drawing near
Ronda, and
Marveiia. to its final period, Ferdinand V. king
of Caílille, having taken Ronda and
all the neighbouring towns, led his
victorious troops into the vale of Ma­
laga, which he ravaged two years
fucceffively.
At this pcriod were likewife deli-
vered from the Mahometan yoke,
Coyn, Munda, Tolox, Marvella, and
all the circumjacent places; and paffing
on to reconnoitre Malaga, he deílroyed
the fortrefs of. Aben Almadala.
When

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. l6t
When Albo Hardil quitted Malaga B o O K IV -
in 1485, he beftowed the govern-IVraw'of
,• i • « i- »i Malaga 148Í.
ment or the city on Ah Aben Dor- *
dux, grandfon of Mahomet Aben
Nazar, fourteenth king of Granada.
This prince was fufpected of holding ,
2L correfpondence with the Ghriítians,
and being affeéted to them, the truth
of which feemed in the fequel to be
confirmed by the many honours and
favours beftowed upon him by the
king of Caftille; though as he, to the
hour of his death, conftantly refufed
embracing the Chriftian religión: it
may well be believed his conduct was
directed by the then defperate ftate of
the Moors' affairs, the unavoidable
neceflity of their fubmitting to the
Chriftian yoke, and his prudent defire
to mitigate their fate by a timely be-
S 3 fpeaking

$6ü A JOURNEY FROM
^MALAGA ^ íjpeaking the clemency of the con-
""""^ queror.
Ferdinand Vi ^ .. __ , . . . /• .
takes vdez Ferdxnand V. having in the fpnng
1487.
of the year 1487, reduced the city
of Velez, feven leagues to the Eaíl
of Malaga, and Albo Hardil, king of
Granada, being embarraíTed in a civil
war with his nephew, he proceeded
feleMÍgtto the conqueft of Malaga. His firft
W Son¡ux A 1 Í c a r e W a S t 0 W r i t e a l e t t e r t 0 A l i D o r -
dux, requiring him to deliver up the
city. This fummons was carried to
Malaga by Hernando El Pulgar
Ali Dordux not being able to comply
with the king's delire, returned for
[g~¡ This was not Hernando del Pulgar, the
hiílorian, but a nobleman 'in the army of Fer­
dinand V. who lies buried in the entranceof the
royal chapel in Granada, and whofe defcendants
are now Marquis's of Salar,
anfwer,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA, 263
unfwer, " That he was ready to ferve 1
" his highnefs in every thing that !!l
" did not thwart the obligation he
(i had to defend that city."
Malaga, belides a multitude ot"
Moors that had fled for íhelter to its
walls from the circumjacent towns,
was garrifoned by an army of Gómeles,
commanded by Hamete Hali, a Zegri;
to whom Albo Hardil, miftruíting the
fidelity of his couíin, fent an oi.ier to
govern and defend the town to the
laft extremity.
Antonio de Nebrixa{7>], and Her­
nando del Pulgar, have both left us
ampie
[h] The Chronicle of Hernando del Pulgar in
Spanifhwasprintcdat Valladohd 156

264 A JOURNEY FROM
ampie accounts of this fiege; the
arm y of Spaniards coníifted of
60,000 combatants, in which was
Diego de Muros, who was alfo at this fiege
as íecretary to the cardinal or" Spain, and was
afterwards hiíhpp of Oviedo, wrote in Latin,
and addrefled to the cardinal, Epitomen Rerunt
gefiarum 1487 a púa 1 Malacam, ex cajlris miffam,
which, 1 beüeve, was never publiíhed, Diego
Sa de Meneles of Liíbon printed about the mid-
dle of the 17th century a poetical account of
this fiege of Malaga in Portuguefe verfe, inti-
tuled, Malaca conquijtada; I could never meet
with it. In the liíl of learned men natives oí
Malaga, p. 232, we forgot to mention Bernard
Aldarette, a Jefuit, who wrote Varias Antique-
dades de E/pana, which I poffefs, and is well
known to be a valuable vvork ; as is Hkewife an­
other treating on Spaniíh antiquities, and its
language, Origen de la Lingua Cajlillana
copy was printed at Madrid 1682, in folio,
Antonio de Gallillo, a Francifcan Friar, was alfo
born in Malaga-, he, on his return from his
miflions in the Holy Land, publiíhed at Madrid
1654, V' ia g e a I a tierra JanUa. 1he Hiftory of
Malaga by Roa, raentioned in the fame page, is
printed in Malaga, 1622, in fmall quarto, and
coníiíls of 85 lea ves; an imperfeta copy of it is
in the Britiíh Mufeum, where I perufed it linca
the firft cdkion of this book. all

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 265
all the flower of the nobility of Spain, BooK IV -
headed by the king himfelf: their
approach was on the fea-íide from
the Velez road, and they appeared
before the town the fecond week in
May. Their principal qtiarter, and 14*7.
where the king encamped, was on a
mountain behind that of Gibralfaro,
almoft within gun-íhoty but rather
more elevated; to gain this poft, was
the work of a whole day, and the
price of many lives; the Moors oc-
cupied the fummit with three bat-
talions, drove the Spaniards down the
hill three feveral times, wounding
and killing great numbers; the king's
tent was placed at firít on this hill;
but the Moors, havine: the royalT1,c ^P ! , i í u d "
' O J ínvcit the
pavilion in view, never ceaíed firing LamUmíse;
againft it, till the Spaniards removed
it 011 another eminence further oíF;
thence the Unes of the camp extended
to

266 A JOURNEY FROM
"malaca 0 / to the gate of Granada, where Don
""" Alonzo de Aguilar, the Alcalde of
Los Donceles, commanded; from the
gate there was another line round the
walls of the fuburbs, down the Agua
Medina to the fea, fo that the town,
entirely furrounded, could have no
communication with the country
within, ñor receive fuccours from
Granada; to the coaít of Barbar y, all
paíTage was cut off by the Spaniíh
fleet, commanded by the Gount of
Benevento and Antonio Bernal.
-!!,c Moors j n a rf e n ai 0f the Moors were
tleíend the
áxaiUics* fix Albatozas, or row-gallies, which
they armed and put to fea to defend
the bcach from the Spaniíh íhips ;
thefe were continually íkirmiíhing
with their enemies, and endeavouring
to break through them : in one of
which.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 267
which fights they drove from the B o O K IV -
town the whole fleet, and funk a
large veííel belonging to the duke of
Medina Sidonia.
Thus fhut up, the Moors had no-
thing to trufe to but their own valour
and the number and bravery of their
men, though, alas! the multitude of
inhabitants only ferved to accelerate
their ruin; in a month's time, all the
proviíions were confumed, and to
diílrefs them the more, Ferdinand
ordered a great part of the army to
endeavour to enter and carry the
barrio of the city, wherein the Moors
kept th'eir horfes and cattle, and drew
great fuccours from the fruits of its
gardens,
This affault lafted three days, and
every foot of ground that the Spa­
niards

A J O U R N E Y FROM
niards gained was bathed in blood;
no quarter was there given : it was the
Moors laft refuge; they fought with
the greateft bravery, and, defending
the ground by inches, were driven
into the city by the fuperior forcé of
the victorious Chriítians.
An attempt to make themfelves
mafters of the bridge, was attended
with lefs fuccefs and ítill more blood-
íhed. This bridge was defended at
each entfance by two towers; the
furthermoft of which the Spaniards
blew up with gunpowder, but never
could they make themfelves mafters
of the other; fo defperately was it
defended by the Moors, who loft in
this attack a number of their braveft
men, and among them two of their
principal captains, fons of Malaga,
Cid¿

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 269
Cidi Mahommad, and Durrhamen, B o O K Iv -
mourned by the whole city, though
rather to be envied than pitied,
becaufe they furvived not the de-
ftruction of their nation.
The artillery, planted in the king's A«ack OFGÍ-
^ ° bialfaro.
quarter on the mountain Gibralfaro,
beat down the great tower of the
caftle, another turret near it, and the
wall between them; the Marquis of
Cadix advanced to attack and enter
the breach fword in hand; but the
befieged, not lofing courage, drew
out 2,000 men; and, on the approach
of the Spaniards, animated by defpair,
made a dreadful havock among them,
tumbling great numbers headíong
down the hill, and obliging the reft
to retire to their formcr poft. The
Chriftians loft in this affair feveral
captains,

270 A J O U R N E Y FROM
ANNALS OF captains of note, Garci Bravo, Alcalde
MALAGA. tr 7 I
Sub F7gius e .° us But
Atienda, Iñigo López de Medrano,
Lord of Cavanillas, Gabriel de Soto-
mayor, and two noblemen of Gallicia;
the Marquis himfelf was wounded in
the arm with an arrow.
the moft bloody of all the
aétions during the íiege were the
fubterraneous fights between the men
who had undermined the walls of the
city in different places, and the Moors
who, by countermines, had met
them ; íix days they fonght under
gronnd without intermiífion, both
the dead and living replaced by their
countrymen from time to time, as
thefe fell and thofe grew tired; at
length the Moors beat the Spaniards
from all their works, which they
ruined and ftlled up, and thereby
faved the city; nothing can exceed
a the

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 27I
the horrour of fuch engagements, B o O K IV -
rendered ítill more fearful with the
gloomy light of torches, by the blaze
of which the combatant reíifted his
adverfary body to body, a fword in
one hand, and a dagger in the other,
and this not only in a fingle part, but
five or íix at once.
King Ferdinand defpairing to gain
the place, his camp being diminifhed
by the fword and íicknefs, and his
powder failing, the Queen arrived
with freíh fupplies of men and
money in July; they wrote to Por­
tugal for gunpowder, and difpatched
a veífel to Algeziras, then in ruins,
to gather up all the ftone balls which
Alonzo XI. had thrown into that city
when hebeíieged it.
The

A J O U R N E Y FROM
The Moors ítill kept up their
courage, depending upon fuccours
from Granada; which city, at this
fatal period, was torn to pieces by
the facüons of the two kings, únele
and nephew; the former indeed, to
whom Malaga belonged, fent a body
of men to their affiftance from Guadix,
but the infatuated Audali marched
out of Granada and routed them,
thereby determining the lofs of Ma­
laga, and haílening his own ruin;
notwithftanding 400 Moors aííembled
fecretly, and endeavoured, by furprize,
to pafs the Spaniíh lines, by the lide
of the fea, and enter the city; of thefe
200, partly by fwimming, andpartly
by jumping over the ftakes and fences
of the camp, got into the town, at
the expence of the lives of their
companions.
With

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 273
With them went a fanatic, named BooK IV -
Abraen Algerbi, native of the king- ^ 7 . / *
dom of Tunis, who had deceived him- M °° l "
felf into a fuppoíition that he fliould
deliver his countfymen from their
impending fate, by murthering the
king; a diabolical policy, too fre-
quently read of in the hiftories of all
nations and religions. This wretch
being taken without reíiílance, and
aíking to fpeak with his majeíty* was
carried, dreífed as he was with his
alfanje by his fide, to the tent of the
Marqüefa de Moya> where was Don
Alvaro, fon of the Duke of Braganza,
and his wife, waiting the leveé of the
King, who was aíleep; the Queen pro-
Videntialíy having refufed to fee him.
The infidel, deceived by the richnefs
of the dreífes of Don Alvaro, and the
marchionefs, and not underílanding
YOL. II. T their

¿74 A J Ó U R Ñ E Y FRÓ&f
A MALAGA. f t ^ i e i r to ngue, concluded them to bé
• t - i - ta -"- J the royal perfons$ and, drawing his
fword, gave the duke a violent ftroke
on the head, and wounded the mar-
chionefs, before he was cut in pieces.
This defperate attempt meeting
with the fuccefs it deferved, the prof*
pect of the beíieged became every
day more lamentable; nothing can be
more affe&ing than the accounts hif-
Grczt w^reCstorians give us of the diftrefs and
«í the Citizens. °
mifery of the Moors, for above a
month before they furrendered; moft
of their troops and chieftains had
perifhed in the defence of the pofts;
and of 15,000 Gómeles, only a few
hundred common foldiers, and not
one captain, remained alive. Mul­
titudes of the inhabitants died daily
«f hunger, efpecially the Jews; ail
the

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. &f§
the bread and barley of the place had
been gathered together by the gover-
nor, and diftributed as long as it lafted
to thofe who manned the walls, four
ounces in the morning and two at
night: as for the reft of the people,
they fed (thofe who could get it) oh
the fleíh of dead horfes, and other
animáis, and the hides of beef fodden;
bread they made of the wood of palms
dried and ground* and to their chil-
dren they gave vine-leaves fryed in
oil. In this dreadful extremity, the
chief men of the city affembled to­
gether, and went to Hamete Zeli,
eonjuring him to have compafíion on
their fituation¿ and to deliver up the
town to the enemy, rather than fee
thofe, whom the fword had fpared¿
periíh with hunger.
B, 00lc I V-^
to íurrendéi'

A J O U R N E Y FROM
" Do not thou, faid their leader
" Abraham Alhariz, the Alfaqui, be
" harder-hearted than our enemies;
" the ery of our wives and children
" is unfupportable, and we have no
" bread to give them. Doft thou
" imagine our walls are ftronger than
" thofe of Ronda, or our foldiers
" more valiant than thofe of Loxa?
" Behold the pride of Ronda is, hum-
" bled, and the cavalry of Loxa could
** not refift the army of thefe princes
" who have fo long befieged us!
" Doft thou ftill deceive thyfelf with
" the hopes of fuccours from Gra-
" nada? Granada, alas! has loíl its
" ílrength, its glory is extinót, and
" all its valiant knights are no more."
The Arrajaez, refleóling on the
truth of what they faid, and filled
with

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 277
with compamon for the citizens
periíhing for want hourly before his
eyeSj gave them this anfwer, worthy
to be recorded,
T 3 AcporcJ-
B o O K l v-
" Open the gates! let in our hís Anfwer,
" enemies! and fee what mercy you
" can obtain from them! As for me,
" none, I know, I am to expect; I
u took charge of this place with ob-
" ligation to die or lofe my liberty
" in its defence, that of my religión,
" and the honour of him who in-
i f truíled it to me! I have done my
" duty ; but, if I could have had my
*' choice, I would have preferred, to
" a miferable captivity, a glorious
( < death, defendjng this unhappy
« cit7,"

S78 A JOURNEY FROM
^ ¿ " A * Accordingly, the Alfaqui, with
"~ ~" Amarben ^mar, and fourteen others,
the principáis of each of the tribes
of the city, were deputed with the
following letter to the Spaniíh camp;
Letter of the

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
( t noble progenitors, great and mighty
kings, have given you an example.
" You cannot be ignorant (God
" exalt your power!) how Cordova
" was beíieged a long time; and,
" when half the city was taken, the
" Moors defended themfelves in the
" other part, till their bread and
(t water were confumed, and they in
" greater diftrefs than we are; but
" they intreated the great king, your
" anceftor, and he pardoned them,
" and heard their words, and gave
11 them all that they had; he took
" nothing from them, gaining ira"
" mortal fame,
l

»8Q A JOURNEY FROM
^MALAGA/ " A I L D T 0 ° 5
K T H E T 0 W I 1
DV lt the Caftlft
- ~" " held put feven days, when $heii?
water failed them; they then threw
? e themfelves at his mercy», and he
f 6 received them favourably $ for
f which his memory is blefíéd to the
f ( day of judgment: and íince the
f l fame of your virtue, honour, and
í* piety, is exalted above all the king$
and princes, your predeceílors, do
!' not turn away your face from us?
f* Ayho reft entirely on your favour,
f 4 and put ouxfelves under your pró-
f 6 tection; fo do to us as your mag-
" nificent forefathers? that we may
" recount your praife and fame all
*' over the earth,"
^Anfwí"f s affc&ing petition being tranf-<
" lated from the Arabick into Spaniíh?
and read in council? the king gave
for

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA, $8*
for añfwer, That it was now too Bo °*- Iv -
i l late to fue for favour or grace; and,
íince hunger and not good-will
*' forced them to fubmit, they muft
" undergoe the laws of the con-
querer, and fuch as he íhould mark
f* out íhould be put to death, and
*í the reít fold for llaves."
This hard fentence fo unworthy aDcíi> a; rof th< .
Chriítian prince, and fo incompatible
with the merciful fpirit of that gofpel
whofe caufe Ferdinand pretended to
be fighting, exafperated the miferable
inhabitants to fuch a degree, that in
their firft fury they determined to
hang the 500 Chriítian ílaves in their
power, on the battlements of the Al-
cafaba, as a fpectacle to the Spaniards,
to whom they threatened to march
out and fell their Uves dearly, with
arms

2$2 A JOURNEY FROM
^JEÍIOA! a r m s 0 1 1 ^ a c ^ s > t n a t t n e v m igbt¡
' purchafe their victory with blood,
and the memory of this fíege be noted
in all ages while the world endured.
sc^f ^f ng de- The oíd men, Alfaquis, and Al;
Jiveving up the
city. Dordux, by their intereft and reafon,
having at length perfuaded them to
fubmit to their fate, they were all
conducted, by the king's order, into
the coráis of the Alcafaba, the men
feparated from their wives and chil-^
dren in the lower court; as for Ha-
mete Zeli, whofe only crime was the
having made fo gallant a defence, he
was loaded with irons, and thrown
into a dungeon, where Jie wa,s never
more heard of.
No tongue can defcribe the defo-
Jation of the women and children pn
this

f&IBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 283
this fatal and eternal feparation from
all that was dear to them; as they
marched through the ítreets, and
quitted their houfes, which they were
never more to enter, they wrung their
hands, and, lifting their eyes to
heaven, exclaimed,
B o o K I V t
« Ill-fated Malaga! behold how¿S^
" thy fons abandon thee! What will
" become of thy ancients and ma-
" trons ? And how will thy tender
maidens, delicately educated, be
able to endure hard ílavery? Can
f' the Chriílians tear the infants from
f the breafts of their mothers, and
" their wives from the arms of their
" huíbands, withput íhedding tears?
" The beauty of thy towers, the
" írrength of thy caftles, the height
f of thy walls, could not defend thine
f inha-

2,84 A JOURNEY FROM
ANNALS OÍF (í inhabitants; the earth, which fed
MALAGA. ' 1
*~' " and nouriíhed them to this day,
4í will not be fuffered to cover them
** in death, becaufe they have
" incurred the anger of their
« Qreator [b~\!"
^endlrs f th¡ Malaga opened its gates to the
j Sth of Au-
gufti487. Chnftians, after a negé or three
months and three days, on Saturday
the i8th of Auguft 1487, having
been in pofleflion of the Mahometans
77a years; of 30,000 Mooriíh inha­
bitants exiíling at the beginning of
the íiege, above half had periíhed by
the fword or famine ; part of the reft,
were fold to redeem Chriftian flaves
in África ; part given to the chiefs
and captains of trie, army, and diftri*
[¿] This is tranílated literally from Nebrixa,
who was prefent at this. afTcfting fight.
buted

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 285
buted all over Spain; the king fent B o O K Iv -
an hundred of the Gómeles as a
prefent to the Pope; and Donna Ifabel
fifty young virgins to the queen of
Naples, and thirty to the court of
Portugal; fo that this unfortunate
people were difperfed all over the
earth. A deftruction more compleat
no nation ever experienced.
From this univerfal calamity was S °A^ CC ¿""*
excepted Ali Dordux, who introduced
the royal ftandard and Chriítians into
the town, and his fon attacked, fword
in hand, Hamete Zeli, and forced the
Alcafaba, where that unfortunate ge­
neral wanted ítill to defend himfelf;
for which action Ferdinand V. gave
liberty to him and eight families, his
relations, and all their goods and pof-
feílions.
To
clux.

A J O U R N E Y F R O M *
To Ali Dordux in particular wer6
afligned, by order of the king, 34
houfes, with four íhops and a bake-
houfe, together with the adjoining
mofque for himfelf, family, and re-*
lations ; they were lituated in the
Calle Del Horno, from the New Gate
to the Fleíh-Market, in the Barrio de
la Morería, or Quarter of the Moors,
of which he was reckoned the head;
they likewife gave a houfe to Ali El
Fadala, another to Comen Aben Ho­
mar, and one to the Alcalde of Col­
mares, all relations of Dordux, who had
moreover állotted to him a meadow
where he ufed to keep his cattle,, called
Diara Nakhale, or the Field of Bees-,
and a parcel of arable land on the
right íide of the Agua-Medina, under
the mountains, together with lands-,
4 vine-

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 287
Vineyards, and olive-yards, in the B o o K IY -
neighbourhood of Churiana.
In 1490, the king offered Dordux
leven fchedules in blanc, for him to
fill up with fuch privileges as he
thought proper, if he would be per-
íuaded to turn Chriítian; which he
conítantly refufed, begging for leave
to go and end his days in Fez, where
he had fent his riches before him: but
Ferdinand V. fearing he might be
tempted to return with troops to
trouble the kingdom, would not con-
fent to his demand; but, well knowing
the refpect the Moors of the country
bore him, and the fervice he might
render to the ítate by keeping them
in conftant fubmiílion, he createdHisPñvüeg,*.
him Jufticia Major of the Biíhoprick
of Malaga, by a royal cédula, dated
the

288 A JÓÜRNEY FROM
^ALSOF tfre x$th 0f February 1490; hegavé
"~ him power to ñame Alguaziles over
all the Mooriíh villages, and to en-
able him to fend for his eífecls and
money back from Barbary, on the
aoth of May 1492, he granted
him a Carta de Privilegio, that he
might traffick by fea to all parts of
Spain, and his íhips go to África,
without let or moleítation of his fleets,
whom he ordered to fuccour and afíifc
them.
The K¡ng/s Ali Dordux was fo coñfidered by
Letter to him.
the Catholic king, that there is ex-*
tant a letter, under his own hand [/],
dated the 2Óth of Aprií, 1496;
in which he delires him to make ufe
of his intereíl among the Moors, and
perfuade them to fubmit to a tribute
¡T| The original letter was íhewn to me in
Malaga by the Canon Conde.
5 * he

GÍBRALTAR TO MAIAGÁ; 1 ¿8£
ríe wanted to lay on them. He diéd B o o K lV -
in Antiquera about the year 1502. Dles in l s l i °
His fon Mahomad, Ali bordux,^^
, , . . r i r ' takes the
and his wile, two years berore, were NameotDr»
Juan de M-«
converted to the Chriftian faith; and h § a -
Mahoníed at his baptifm took the ñame
of the Prince Don Juan, only fon to
Ferdinand and Ifabel, who probably was
his íponfor; théncefofward he ílyled
himíelf Don Juan de Malaga, and took
for arms, as defcendant of the kings
of Granada, ñve pomgranates, and the
city of Málaga quartered, with the
arms of Arragon and León, fur-
mounted with a crown.
YOL. II. tí His
His Arms

29Q AJOURNEY FROM
ANNALSOF
MALAGA.
——-— His motto was thus,
and Motto.
Malaga muí noble y leal,
A fus reyes fiempre ha íido,
Los, que fon de fu appeliido,
Es fu origen fangre real,
Y de folar conocido.
In ENGLISH.
Malaga noble and loyal
To its kings has ever ítood.
Thofe that bear its ñame
Are born of royal blood
High in birth and fame.
This noble gentíeman lived many
years in Malaga, always faithful to
the crown of Caítille, and had his
manfion in the Plagúela, or little
fquare of his ñame. In 15 o i, on the
general

GIBRALTAR. TO MALAGA. 2

292 A JOURNEY FROM
A ultl S c,l T Thefe princes re-eftablifhed the an-
Ferdinand v. cient biflioprick of Malaga, fettled its
and Ifahel re- .
eiiabiiih its revenues, and the jurifdichon of the
ancient Bi-
ihopricjí. cjty o v e r R o nd a ) Velez, Cártama,
Coyn, and other towns to the Eaft
and Weft of Malaga. CommhTaries
were appointed to diftribute lands and
houfes to the multitude of Chriftians
that flocked from all parts, induced
by the fruitfulnefs of its territory, and
the mildnefs of the climate.
TIK c¡ty re- Since which time Malaga has en-
peoplcd by 0
chnftians. c r e af e¿ i n vvealth, buildings, and
Revlval of the
ancient Trade
number of inhabitants, who, reviving
its ancient trade of wine and fruits,
once more fet themfelves to cultívate
and propágate the generous grape.
The Genoefe were its firft princi-
*f Malaga. ^ rnerchants, but, in procefs of
time,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 293
time, Engliíh, Fleming, Germán and B o °* IV '
Dutch faótors, carne to fettle and ef-
tabliíli a correfpondence with their
feveral nations. The excellency of
the wine of Malaga foon began to be
known and efteemed in Europe, and
fliips from all parts to frequent its
port, The founders and firft traders
to this city, were the honourable and
princely Phcenicians; and it may be
truly faid, that the prefent merchants
of the different faetones not only keep
up the remembrance of the Tyrian
magnificence, but even exceed them
in the richnefs of their drefs, ftate of
their houfes, their villas of the vale,
and coftly retreats in the mountains.
Its fine hay, and lucrative trade to
all partí of the North, for fome cen-
{uries paft, have rendered Malaga a
\J 3 rich

2,94 A J O U R N E T ' F R O M
ANNALS OF j.ipjj a n¿ populous town, fecond to
JVJ. A Lj A G A •
•-— none in Spain, except Cádiz. The
Spaniíh monarchs, attentive to its con-
fequence, and the large revenne they
draw from its cuftom-houfe, have
conftantly preferved it from the in-
fults of an enemy by a ftrong garri-
fon, and adorned it with a ftately
mole, and one of the finen cathedrals,
in Europe.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
C H A P T E R III.
JN the year 1487, when Malaga ?r Qf^afa|^ a
was taken from the Moors, its
circumference was miích the fame as
at prefent: the ancient walls have
been repaired by Charles V. and al-
ways kept up, on account of the
duties of millones the king receives
for all praviíions that enter the gates;
indeed the prefent afpect of Malaga
is entirely Mooriíh ; whether you be-
hold it from the fea, the vale, or the
mountains, you on every íide lee it
furrounded by Arabian fortifications,
and crowned with the noble caftles
of Gibralfaro and the Alcafaba: the
Works and buildings of that nation
U 4 will

A J 0 U R- N £ Y FROM
• will therefore firft offer themfelves to
our view ; and an inveftigation of the
monuments they have left behind
them of their power and magni-
ficence, cannot fail to aftbrd us many
particulars of the arts, policy, and inr
genuity of a people, that, from an
habitation of almoft 800 years, had
a fair claim to a country, which they
had conquered, fword in hand, in lefs
than two fummers, from the bar-
barous Gothic fubverters of the Ro*
man empire [/'].
[f¡ The Andalucian Moors fo greatly regrec-»
ted their being driven out pf Spain, that thofc
among them, who afterwards fettled pn all the
oppofite coaft of Barbary, carried with them, and
tranfmitted to, their defcendants, the titles, deeds,
and charters of the eftates they poffefs in thi^
country, who carefully preferve them with a vain
hope, that the emperor of Morocco will one day
pave the way for their return,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 297
At the time of its conqueft, Ma- B o O K lV -
laga had four caftles: Gibralfaro on CJ^ §MA„
the top of the hill, to the Eaít of the
town, ftill ftanding; and below it, on
a rifing ground, the Alcafaba, or pa*
lace of the governor; the third fortrefs
was called Las Attarazanas; the fourth
caftle, which Antonio Nebrija nameci
Caftel de los Genoefes, is no more,
The walls of the town reachec)
from the Alcafaba to the Attarazanas,
in a ftreight line, near a mile in
length, having the water waíhing
them, and two towers projeíting into
the fea, to defend the pafTage under
them; one at the South-Eaft end of
the Alcafaba, and the other advancing
like a fpur (as Nebrija terms it) from
the towers of the Attarazanas; thence
the walls run up the Carretería North*
wards,
Usa "

ftO.8 . Á JOURNEY FROM
MALACA^ wards, taking a fweep till they rejoin
the North part of the Alcafaba»
The Gates of I n ^ s circuit they had feveral
the Town. g a t e s. t j i e p r m cip ai Were la Puerta de
Granada (now blocked up) towardsthe
mountains • La Puerta de Antiquera,
and El Poítigo de Aranze, facing the
plain ; and fronting the fea .La Puerta
del Mar, called by the Moors Bab-
Eltee, La Puerta Efparteria, and fe­
veral others, belides falce, ports and
gates from the caftles, both facing
the. water and the mountains,
Among which gates is the moft
noted one of the arfenal of the Alca-
faba, wherein is a low iron plated
door, that the vulgar., by tradition
from father to fon, conílantly calis
La Puerta de la Caba[/Í']; aífirming it
[Fj This door may be feen in myView of
the Mole of Malaga.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 399
to be the fame through which Fio- Boo ' c Iv -
rinda, the daughter of the CountK^
Don Julián, pafr. to embark for África,
and feek the reparation of her de-
flowered virginity in the deítruc~tion
pf her country; which tale is re-
peated both by Ralis, the archbi-
lhop Don Rodrigo, Florian O Campo,
Morales, and even Garibay and Ma­
riana. True it is, the Caba did em­
bark at Malaga, and equally probable
from this very fpot, this fortrefs then
exifting; but the prefent arch, to
which this celebrated gate is fixed,
was, moít undoubtedly, the fabrick
pf the Moors five hundred years
after. The true ñame of this gate, its true ETY-
according to Aldarette and Morejon,
jn his Hiftory of Malaga, is, Del
Aleaba, or Puerta de la Cueíta, being
placed at the bottom of the hill.
2 Marmol
mology.
1 1 6

300 A JOURNEY FROM
MALAGA» Marmol again gives it another deri-i
Suburbs of
the Viñoria
vation, The Gate of the Slaughter,
as the Moors there made a terrible
one of the Goths when they took it.
Of the fuburbs, that of the Viétoria
puchinos. and the Barrio de los Capuchinos
were then walled in and ftrongly
fortified; the remains of their walls
are ftill to be traced,
BdPnrehei. The Barrio del Purchel, and that
De u Trini- of the Trinity, being both on the
ézd,
further fide of the Agua Medina,
and of too great extent to be de­
fended, was abandoned and demo­
lí íhed by the Moors, when they found
the Spaniards approach. to beíiege
them, Thefe had a communication
with the city, by means of a ftone
bridge, defended by two towers,
which.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 30I
which we had occaíion to mention B o O K IV -
dviring the íiege. This bridge, ac- T h e B r i d s e '
cording to the teftimony of the author
of La Poblation General de Efpana,
was a moft ancient ftructure, built
by the Phceniciaris, and ftill ftanding
in 1661, when a ftorm of rain, on
the 2 2d day of September, carried
it away, together with its towers, into
the fea, into which were forced, by the
fame violence, the walls and materials
of 1600 houfes, and above 2000
fouls drowned. A new bridge has
been lince rebuilt. In thofe two
íuburbs relide at prefent fea-faring
people, and towards The Trinity
thofe that work in the fields and
gardens that furround both.
The Mooriíli caftle of Gibralfaro Gibráff4r *-
was deemed by the Spaniards, at the
time

304 A j O Ü R N E Y F R O M
M A t A G A - tirñe of the fiege, añ impregnabíe
fortrefs, and is at this day one of the
moft perfect models of fthe kind
exiffing. It is furrounded by a dou*
ble wall, from the outermoft of which
proje¿t towers, with double gates
towards the mountain and the city,
placed at fuch diftance from the gates
of the inner wall, that, although the
enemy could take poííeflion of the
former, they would be annoyed and
cruíhed from the top of the walls
as they marched to the attack of the
other.
It occupies all the fummit of the
hill, in circuit about three furlongs,
and undoubtedly, in all its parts, is %
Works of the Moors, and not, as
'Padre Roa will have it, of the Phce-
nkians, Greeks, Carthaginians, of
Romans $

GIBPvALTAR TO M A L A G A ,
Romans; who, notwithílanding, from
its fituation, it may well be prefumed,
had a fortification here as well as in
the Alcafaba below. This may be
conjectured from its ñame, compofed
evidently of Gibel, in Arabio a Moun-
tain, and (¡)ot(?os in Greek, a Signal or
Watch-tower. The Moors found on
it a Watch-tower, called then by its
Greek ñame Pharos, and thence na-
turally named the hill, The Mountain
with a Pharos.
The fituation of this hill, and the
great command of profpeít Eaftward,
over the Mediterranean, towards the
mother city of Tyre, whence the
Phcenician merchants of Malaga, it
is natural, íhould look for their fhips
and merchandizes, is reafon fufhcient
to conclude, that they hada fortrefs and
look-

A J O U R N E Y F R O 3VÍ
look-out on this fpot. Again, on thé
key-ítone of the arch of the principal
gate is carved a head in bas-relief¿
with moldings above and below it;
this ftone fuiting the place, though
longer than any other in the arch,
was probably nlade ufe óf by the
Mooriíh architeót without regarding
the fculpture, which is againft their
law, and of courfe would be pre-
pofterous to impute it to them. This
is the fole monument of Román an-
tiquity I could perceive in this caftle*
The dome of the Donjon, or firft
tower you enter, is finely ornamented
with a Mofaic. I took a drawing of
it, which íhall be engraved. The
damp has mueh injured the colours¿
that are blue, green, and white.
Th@

x,...4íojídc¡< J c >nc '< ' biaban
dbramm, By (Piramcié Ca/rtcr /// 2.
i J u¿kihcdjQccvnii/iytG-Ac¿ (jfpartía mtnt

GIBRALTAR TO MÁLAGA.
The next object worth our atten-
tion is a fquare mofque, whofe doors Moklt
are covered with plates of brafs. Oh
the walls are various works of ftucco,-
and feveral paffages of the alcoran,
written after the manner of the Moors.
The Catholic kings converted this
mofqüe into a Chriftian church,*
which was dedicated to St. Louis the
biíhop, as the annual feftival of this
iaint is celebrated in Spain on the
nineteenth of Auguft, the day on
which this city was delivered up to
the Chriftians. This chapel has been
long íince íhut up, and the towers of
the caftle filled with gun-powder.
The greateft curiofity of Gibralfaro Lar g e
is a large well of fine fpring-watef,
that deícends 300 yards into the
bowels of the mcuntain. The water is"
VOL. II* X ex-

A JOURNEY FROM
exceedingly light and Well-flavouredí
I both tafted and weighed .it, being
amazed that a mountain, waíhed by
the briny wavés, fhould be pregnant
with fuch excellent fprings, of which
another, by the means of condüiís in
the time of the Moors, fupplied all
the Barrio of the Viclory; their vef-
tigia I traced on the North-fide of thé'
hill,
There is a fecond fmaTler welr
in one of the towers, and two very
fine algibes, or baths; one at
the mofque,, and the other m the
open eourt, not far from the great
\ve\\y this \atter is within four feet of
the furfacé of the hill, built oí
ftone, and arched to preferve the
water freíh, meafuring thirty feet
long, and ten wide, a beautiful and
admirable

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 307
admirable work; the arches are lofty B o O K IV -
and entire, and refpire a coolnefs that
invites one to bathe.
The ñame of the fecond caftle, in A£¿.
Arabic, was ; in Spaniíh, Al­
cafar, thence corrupted Alcafaba, fig-
nifying a caftle and royal reíidence.
It accordingly ferved as a fortrefs that
commanded the town, a palace for
its arrahaez, and an arfenal for his
gallies. Its íituation is on a riíing
hill, with a gradual defcent each way,.
except to the Eaít, where it joins the
fuperior mountain of Gibralfaro, with
which it communicates by a double
W a l 1 of
wall 000 feet long. On coníideringí?
y o o Commumca-
the dirección of thefe walls, almoft Uüfl '
perpendicular up the hill, which is
exceedingly fteep, and that they are
built near five feet thick, fortified
X a with
t h c

A J O Ü R N E Y F R O M
with towers, battlcmcnts, and ílone-
íteps on the inner fide, for the con-
venience and protección, of thofe whc
manned them; one cannot help being
ííruck with fnch a bold and ftupendous
undertaking, which rendered thefe
two caítlcs impregnable before the ufe
of íire-arms; and even thouidi Fer-
dinand V. liad a park of artiilery
mounted againít them, during the
whole íiege, he at laíl reduced the
city only by famine.
The Alcafaba was fortified in a moít,
extraorclinary manner, with three
walls towards the fea, and two facing
the tovv'ii. Antonio de Nebrixa
. counted, in the circumference of this
caftle, no large tov, f ers, beíides a,;
great number of turrets, the largeít]
of which are thoíe which furroundj

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. '309
the arfenal for the gallies, that is B o o K TV -
in the Weft angle of the caftle, clofe
to the fea, and fo low, that the water
flowed in and formed a bafon capa-
cious enough to contam 20 gallies.
The walls round it were eighty feet
high; and the three arches, for the
reception of the barks, íixty feet by
thirty wide, and twelve feet thick:
each of thefe arches had its gates,
the prooves of whofe hino'es are ftill
to be feen, thouffh they have lon^
fmce been carried away, the arches
walled up, and the fea repelled by the
mole.
The ground of this bafon is now
turned hito a garden, and, what is moft
furprizing, has in it a well of good
water. This garden, lying low,
warm, and well-íheltered from the
Northerly winds, grows plantains and
X 3 bananas

A JOURNEY FROM
A - bananas as good and fweet-flavoured
as any I ever ate in the Madeiras.
The principal gate of the Alcafaba
faced the town, whofe doors, plated
with maííy iron, are ftill ftanding.
You enter it tmder a tower, round
which yon ftill fee the ftone-feats
whereon the Mooriíh guards repofed.
This tówer has a fecond gate, which
when you have paft, you turn to
the left by a narrow way, defended
in the rhiddle by another gaté; you
then meet a tower like the firft
with doublé gates, and, turning to
the right, go under a long covered
way, which" brings you to a fixth
gate, fronting another that leads to
the arfenal and lower walls; leav-
ing which on the right, you continué
afcending the hill between the fecond
and third wall, till you pafs a (eventh •
arch,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 311
arch; and an hundred paces further, B o o K IV -
you come to what the Moors efteemed
their chief gate [/]. This gate the cllicf Gaíc -
Moors cajled The Gate of Judgement,
as under it, after a moft ancient cuftom
in the Eaft, the Arrajaez, or his Cadi,
fat and adminiftered juftice. Over it is
the reprefentation of a key carved, the
ancient fymbol of the Mahometans;
and above the key two bricks, with
an Arabic infcription, enamelled blue,
each of them containing feyen linés,
but fo eífaced by the inclemency of
the weather, as to be ahfolutely un-
intelligible.
This tower, which is fortified with
double gales, leads to a fecond court;
oppofite to it is a yery large and, lofty
tower flanked, and whofe gates open
tq the fummit of the hill, wdiich is
[(j, Of which a drawing fh.aU be publiíhed..
X 4 fíat,

gla A J O U R N E Y F R O M
m a l a c a . flaí!) a nj f o r m s an oblong fquare,
Moorifli
ícriUcd.
therein was La Torre del Homenage,
and the governor's palace.
By this deícription, you will find,
we have paffed five towers and eleven
gates before we enter the center of
the caftle. I have been the more ex-
plicit, in order to give the ingenious
reader an idea of the Mooriíh manner
of fortification. The ufe of fire-arms
has entirely changed the whole theory
of the art of defence; but ítill it is
curious and pleaíing, to fee the pains
and care the Arabians took in fortify-r
ing their caftles, and to contémplate
the monuments of a nation that is
now no more.
Thefe gates the architeclis diítinr
guiíh by the ílyle of Moriíks, of a far
diíFerent conftruction from either the
Román or Gothic, and which indifpu'.ably

G I B R A L T A R TO MALAGA.
putably denotes a Mporiíh building.
Their arches were circular, and de-
fcending below their médium or
femi-circle cauled their plinths or
impofts to advance beyond their due
proportion. The key-ftone was al-
ways of marble or ftone, and the arch
faced either with ftone or brick; but
the impofts ever of a fine veined
marble, of a different colour from the
reft of the building, fo as to mark and
be diftinguiíhed at a diftance; this,
which the Romans would have ef-
teemed a defect, was, to the Moors,
a beauty, and every gate to this for-
trefs has plinths of a different colour,
fome red, others green, yellow-veined.
with white or blue; the arch was
generally crowned by a fort of fquarc
entablature, projeóting a little from
the walls, and defcending on each
fide as low as the impoft.
The

314 A JOURNEY FROM
M a l a g a - The Moors íludying variety more
MoorilhGate !. t h a n ^
ú ú n g j n b u ildingS, it
is difficult to find two gates orna-
mented alike, or after any one fixed
rule or deíign ; thus, for inftance, the
firft and fecond gates of the two caítles,
the gates of the ítreet of Granada,
and the famous one of the Attararanas,
are all entirely different; nay, the
órname nts of the three arches of the
arfenal, though clofe to each other,
and of the fame height, have not the
leaft refemblance.
SSentí e;r The Arahs had three wajs of
beautifying the gates and towers they
intended to ornament; the firít was
StuccoWork. b y a y e r y c u r i o u s M o f a i c i n ftucco>
of the incomparable and ever-during
yefo of this country. The walls of
moft of the apartrnents of the Al-
hamhra

GIBRALTAR TO' "MALAGA. 315
hambra at Granada are done thus Boo!C
with a filligrane work, exceedingly
fine, light, and hardy; and in the
remains of thofe of the Alcafaba is to
be feen the fame.
The fecond was a kind of fquare BrIck Wañs -
or diamond, raifed on the walls by
two bricks, advanced edgeways about
three inches from the fuperficies, as
in the gate of the arfenal [ni], and the
tower of the church of San Jago.
The third was by bricks, enamelled Ename,s >
in different colours on their furfaces,
moulded in the form and íhape re-
quired. It is amazing how frefh the
few of them, that have not been
forced out of their places by violence,
have preferved their colours and poliíh
Which íhail be engraved.

3l6 A J O U R N E Y F R O M
_ M a l a g a - to this day; and, when entire and un-
interrupted, this kind of Mofaic muft
have had a beautiful and pleaíing
efTea.
Mo'a.cs. rj-.| i e ]yj
o o r s were not ignorant of
the way of working Mofaics in the
curious manner with marbles, an art
that had lain forgotten from the time
of the decay of Rome; an inimitable
fpecimen of which we have in the
cathedral of Cordova, originally a
Mooriíh mofque, wherein is a chapel,
the walls of which are entirely co-
vered with a marble Mofaic, and in it
not a piece bigger than a finger-nail.
The Moors ufed likewife to enamel
on bricks fentences of the alcoran,
for the ornament and fandification
of their mofques and palaces; the
letters

G I B R A L T A R TO MALAGA. 317
letters are generally blue, and the BooK iv -mi
ground white; I picked up two bricks,
thus enamelled, thrown away among
rubbiíh, in the fieids of the Capu-
chins.
The key overthe gate of the Alca-Keyoverth«
J 0 Gate or the
faba is the grand hieroglyphic of the^¿ a e x "
Andalufian Moors. You fee it on
every caftle, fortrefs, or royal building
of that nation, all over the kingdom.
Its lignification is myfterious, and
alindes to a paíTage in the alcoran,
wlierein Mahomet boafts, " That
" God gave him power over the hea-
" ven above and the fire beneath,
" md a key, with the power of a
" porter, that he may confide it to
" thofe whom he may hereafter
" chufe."
The

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
The fovereign authority, róyal birth,
and great riches of Fafachen, the Ar-
rahaez of Malaga, who built thefe for-
trefTes in the year 1279, would flatter
one with the expectation of feeing
fome fplendid apartments in the quar-
ter where he refided; but, alas I-
it has had the misfortune to be the
woríl treated of any part of the caftle.
It is totally in ruins; no íhape or form
of a court is now to be diftin-
guiíhed', the whole being filled with
heaps of rubbiíh, grown by time into
hills as hard as the rocks they lie on,
among which appear here and there
pillars and blocks of marble. I could
only trace four or five rooms, the
roofs of which and the upper parts of
the walls have been long deítroyed.
Of one, that feems to have been a
large faloon, remains a carved door-
7 cafe,

G I B R A L T A R TO MALAGA.
cafe, part of a wall fhiccoed with Mo*
faics, a fine marble pillar, and the
nich (inlaid with enamelled tiles)
wherein the Moors, whert they en-
tered the apartment of their king,
were obliged to depofit their ílippers,
as they ever approached the prefence
barefoot. Thefe niches in the Al-
hambra of Granada are inlaid with
gold. By the abovementioned faloon
is ítanding a door-cafe, leading to an
inner apartment, which is raifed on
an arch peculiar to the Arabs [«],
and fupported by two delicate wbiíe
marble pillars.
In the fquare, behind the gover-
ríó'r's quarter, is a large cave, paved
and arched, with a refpirail of a fmall
ftair-cafe to defcend it* Some people
[n] l have engravecí it.
pretend

A JOURNEY FROM
preterid it was a mafmorra or prifoil
to confine the captive Chriftians; but
I íhould rather judge it to have been
a magazine for their gunpowder or
proviíions, efpecially their cora.
In this Coral, near to La Torre del
Omenage, are the remains of a bath,
of an oblong fquare of thirty yards,
which was well fupplied with water
from one of the fprings of the Gibral-
faro. The fides of the Algibe are ítill
red with a vermilion the Moors made
ufe of, and which never loft its
colour.
It is found in large quantities in
Spain, together with the quickfilven
The Romans highly prized it, as we
learn from Pliny [o], who mentions
[o] Lib. xxxüi.
3 . the

GIÉRALÍAÍt TO MALAGA* 3
the mines of this mineral at Sifapona,
in the environs of Ronda, and de-
feribes the whole procefs of painting
a wáll with vermilion, and varniíhing
it fo as to render the eolour perma-
nent, and give the furface of the
building all the poliíh and fmoothnefs
of marble; the Moors we here fee
Were well acquainted with this art.
B o o K
Behínd La Torre del Omenage is a WelL
very deep well of exceedingly good wa­
ter ; and, from an angle of this fquare,
defcended into the town a moter-K^ 0 "
raneous paíTage, buiít entirely of ma-
fonry, and conílfting of two ftrong
walls arched over, which feem to
have had a communication with the
large mofque, now the church of San
Jago, near the gate of Granada*
VOL. II. Y The

A JOURNEY FROM
The coráis or fpaces between the
lower walls, occupying all the South
afpeél of the caílle, may contain about
fíve aeres of ground, and the upper
coral, that runs quite round the for-
trefs, as much more; both which,
for centuries, have been conftantly
fown with corn.
It was in thefe coráis that the iin-
fortunate inhabitants of the city,
after having fuffered all imaginable
evils during the fiege, from the three
capital enemies of human nature,
fword, peítilence, and famine, and
fubmitting themfelves to a mercilefs
conqueror, were driven, by order of
Ferdinand V. like herds of cattle, and
fold for llaves, without any diftinduon
of age, fex, or condition[/>].
[/>3 The price fet on each Moor was 36
ducats; the Jews were forced to ranfom them­
felves for 27,000 ducats.
The

GIJBRALTAR TO M A L A G A . 323
The Attarazanas, in Arabic Al B o O K IV -
Darzana, the Houfe of Vidtory, was'sf Mra '
a large and fpacious building, in which
the Moors [7/] not only fabricated their
arms and military flores, but baked
their bifcuit, and kept magazines of
every fort for their navy; at prefent
it ferves as a comrnodious barrack for
a regiment of íbldiers. The princi­
pal gate is enrire!y of free-ílone, and
ornamented on each fide with the
arms of the Mooriíh kings. Its ar- ú *
chitedlure may be perceived in my kn °"
view of Malaga from the Mole-head,
and the arms feen in the an-
nexed píate of an enamelled tile that
I brought with me from Granada,
which reads,
[7] Father Roa relates the manner in which
the captive Moors of Malaga were ranfomed from
ílavery by hiring themielves to daily labour, and
paying intereft of the ranfom money a Blant'per
diem to their mafters for permiffion to work ;
" a los e/clavos moros clavan largo puraque btf-
" caffen a jornal fu refeate, y entretanto que lo

;24 A JOURNEY FROM
MALAGA. Va la Ghalib lia AÍlau.
In Engiiíh,
And no Conqueror but God.
It is of a bright blue colour; the
íield of the efcutcheon gold, as are the
letters; and the ground of the Bend
whire; it was taken from one of the
faloons of the Alhambra[r]; thefe
arms were originally given to Aben-
Alhamar, íirít king of Granada, in the
year i 248, by Ferdinand III. at Seville,
in the form then ufed by the kings of
C artille themfelves, and for many cen-
turies after, viz. on a field gules, a Bend
Or in two dragons mouths : I poffefs
gold coins of Don Juan II. and of Hen-
ry IV. which bear them ; the Maho-
metan fuperftition difufed the animáis
heads, and added on the Bend the
above quoted fentence of the Alcorán.
[r] I have lately feen engraved by a modern
writer of tratéis, one half oí' one of the niches in
the Alhambra, mentioned pagedle;, on the top
of it was a fentence of'the Koran in Arabick thrice
repeatcd in three lipes, each of which is tberebyfairly
cut in two, and rendered unintelligibl*,
I reincmb.» r it firnified, The Praife be to God:
1 he nich he caíls a copboard, which feems LO
i{.dicate that he was j^norant of its ufe,

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 325
Y 3
BOOKIV.

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 32?
The fourth caítle, mentioned by B o O K lv -
Antonio de Nebrixa to be ítanding los Genoefes.
at the time of the íiege, and called El
Caímlo de los Genoefes, it is difficult
to determine where it ftood. The
only mention he makes of it is, that
it was towards the plain, and fortified
with íix ítrong towers.
" En efla otra parte de lo Llano de
" la Ciudad, eíta una Fortalefa con feis
" Torres Grueíías y mui Altas, que
u fe dicen Caílil de Genoefes."
From its ñame, we may conclude,
it was near the fea; the Genoefe in
that age, and long after, carrying on
all the trade of the Mediterranean. I
fancy it was on the fpot, where now
írands the monaílery of the Carme-
lites, on the Weít-íide of the Agua
Medina, clofe to the fea. I have feen
Y 4 an

328 A JOURNEY FROM
< M a l a g »- an oíd picture of Malaga [

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 329
der, placed on a gentle hill, under B o o K IV -
which plainly appear foundations of
an ancient caftle.
The cathedral of Malaga is built Mooriíh
0 Molques u|
near upon the fcite of the principal Mala s a -
Mooriíh rnofque, of which we have
no account, fave from Pedro Morejon,
who fays, it was one of the fineft in
Spain. This mofque ferved for a
fown-houfe till the year 1493.
The pariíh-church of San Jago,
the fecond temple in Malaga for
beauty and ftatelinefs, was a Mooriíh.
mofque, that has preferved its walls
and form entire. The tower is cu-
rious, and in the true Mooriíh ftile.
The principal door-cafe is likewife
Mooriíh; it is built of brick, with
light pillars of the fame, reaching
half-way down the portal, under
which were two delicate marble co-
lumns;

33° A JOURNEY FROM
M a l a g a - lumns; about it was a Mofaic of blue,
, green, black, yellow, red, and white
marbles, forming ftars and intricate
fquares, all as freíh and compact as
when firft finiíhed, though we may
reafonably fuppofe it to have been
built fix hundred years, when the
Mahometan empire in Spain was in
its greateft profperity.
Clofe to the fleíli-market was a
mofque, erected by the grand-father
of Ali Dordux, over whofe portal was
the following infcription:
infcription " Ali Aben Leil Abulfat Dordux built this
w e r " mofque, and though the edifice be fmall, he
í' dedicated it to the Great God, and oífefed
" himfelf for its humble >-orter."
This mofque was aííigned to Ali
Dordux, for the Ufe of his family, at
the conqueft.
We

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 331
We have alio the tradition of a BQQKIV.
mofque which ftood where now the^^"^
Conventico ítands; and of another Mof

33a A JOURNEY FROM
M a l a g a - a virgin, and famous for abítinence
infcription " In the ñame of God Almighty and Mer>
o v e r i t - « ciful.
and a mortified life; the Moors re-
ported her to be a Xerifa, or princefs
defcendant of Mahomet.
k£i?M¿~ N e a r t h e Bab'Eltee was a very fine
ias *' mofque and college, on the ground
whereon now ílands the cuítom-houfe.
An infcription over the entrance was
tranflated by Juan Robles, a captive
at the time of the íiege, who well un-
derftood the Arabic, and ferved as
interpreter between Ferdinand V. and
the Moors, at the time of deüvering
up the city.
" This is the college of Ali Ahumad; they
" who enter into his chapel, ihall hear its
" doftrine explained.
«' With the affiftance of God I wrote this.
« The

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 333
" The praifes of the All-powerful God be BOOK iv.
" upon Mulley Almanzor and upon his race;
" and the benediftion of God be upon the
" Mooriíh nation."
By this infcription it appears, that
the college was founded in the reign
of Jacob Almanzor, who died in the
year 722.
The Arabs, it is well known, fuc-° bf f v f cn *
7 1 on the Learn»
ceeded to the Romans, not only inA?abí tllc
their martial and ambitious fpirit,
but in their tafte for the arts and
fciences; wherever they eítabliíhed
themfelves, there they erected colleges
and feminaries of learning, for which
their eíleem and veneration is well
exprefTed in an infcription, ftill exift-
ing at the town-houfe of Granada,
which was erecf ed on the fcite of a
college built by Abíalhageg Jufeph,
7 k i n g

J34 A JOURNEI FROM
M a l a g a - king of Granada, in the year of the
Hegira 750.
tnfcription « T ^ t^ a t t f fortúnate as to enter into
>ver a Moonlh
^oilege at « this houfe, deítined for the habitation of the
Granada.
" fciences, and the benefit of future ages,
" remark, that its foundations are laid in Juílice
" and Piety, by thofe who built it for the glory
" of God.
" If thou beefl: deíirous to apply thyfelf to
" ftudy, and to fiy from the íhades of ignorance,
" in thy purfuit, thou wilt furely meet with the
*' beautiful tree of honour.
" Learning is like a bright ftar to the great,
" raifes the humble to equal luítre.
" If, when thine eyes are opened, thou re-
" folveft to fiy from evil, it will teach thee the
" road to truth; which, if thou earneílly feekeít,
" thou wilt difcover its brightnefs, like the rays
( ( of a ftar through the dark clouds.
" If thou wilt make a right ufe of thy know-
" ledge, and benefit by it, thou muft turn thy
" face to good works, and eaíl ofF all evil incli-
'* nations: the road to learning is not for thofe
" whpfe fouls are loaded with de^raved avance.
" Follow then my counfel, which thou wilt
*« reap' the benefit of when thou art oíd, and
" thou.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 335
" thou will be eíteemed in thy youth, and B o 0 K I V -
*' honours will feek thee.
" Caft thine eyes on the people, and thou
" wilt diíHnguiíh many araong them, who before
" were of no account, and for their learning
" íhine like ftars with infinite fplendor.
" The fciences enlighten the heart, and guide
" it to reflitude and truth : they are our fincereft
" friends and eounfellors.
" Accept, O God! fo good a work, infti-
" tuted by Jofeph, a ftar of the firft magnitude,
" brilliant in the fciences and in the law."
After that of their law, the chief
ftudy of the Moors in Spain was me­
dicine, geography, geometry, and
aftrology, and, above all, poetry.
. When they made the conqueíl of
Egypt, in the feventh century, they
there found many Greek books of
aüronomy, which they tranílated; as Aftrononiy '
they did the geography of Ptolemy, Geo s r »i*y-
five hundred years before it was
known

33^ A JOURÑEY ÍR6M
, M a l a g a - known in the Wefíern empife arhong
us. In the library of All Souls Col­
lege at Oxford is a veríion from the
Arabio into Latin of Ptolemy, done
by Geraldus Cremoneníis.
tteAmhorí 0 r " t n e i r written authors iri this
biíhop of To- kingdom, the Cardinal Archbiíhop oí
ledo.
Toledo, Don Francifco Ximenez y
Cifneros, made a moft lamentable de-
fíruction, when he burnt a million
and twenty-five thoufand volumes in
the fquare of Granada; wherein,
though moft of them were alcorans,
it is agreed, there were included num-
berlefs excellent books, whofe lofs is
defervedly lamented.'
jotany. j n -ftuJy a nd knowledge of
botany the Arabs were moft
learned.

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 337
learned [r]. In the twelfth century, B o o K IV - i
flouriíhed at Cordova two moft emi- P ^ fic '
Philofophy,
nent phyiicians, Avicena and AbenFamous A r a i
Zoar, whofe excellent writings onAv icena;
phyfíc and philofophy have been
preferved and tranflated into Latin.
[r] In the year 956, Don Sancho et Gordo,
king of Canille, being affli&ed with a dropfy,
and not able to find a fingle phyíician in his own
dominions, that could adminiller him any relief,
went to Cordova, where the Arabic phyficians
cured him by the application of certain herbs.
VOL. II. Z
Aben Zoar ¡
A b e n R o u í h í
About the fame time lived Aben
Rouíh,' the commentator and inter-
preter of Ariftotle; he likewifc wrote
a book, De Subftancia Orbis, De
Seclis, De Theriaca, and a Treatife on
Phyfíc, much efteemed by the Spa­
niards to this day; they generally
ftile him Averroes.

A JOURNEY FROM
In the fame age, Abuhenque Ma-
homad Raíis wrote his Chronicle of
Spain, about the year of our Lord
976. He was chronologiíl of the
Miramomolin of Morocco and king
of Cordova Dalharab. This work,
tranflated into Spaniíh, is in high
efleem; quoted and referred to by
every fucceeding hiítorian, and its
authority refpected. The original,
in Arabic, was exiíting in the archives
of the church of Toledo in 1239;
but has been íince loft. A few ma^
nufcript Portugueze and Spaniíh ver-
fions are in the cabinets of the curious
in Spain, but are very rare; they were
tranflated in the beginning of the
fourteenth century. Don Francifco
Barban íhewed me one of the Portu­
gueze manufcripts of Raíis ; from
which I copied the quotations vol. I.
p. 279. and vol, II. p. 237.
2 Albu-

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 339
Albucacim Tarif Abentarique wrote S o o k I V - ,
a Chronicle of the Conqueftof Spain, Abul " cun '
which fell into the hands of Miguel
de Luna, who was by birth a Moor,
and interpreter of Philip II.; his tran-
ílation of it is in my library.
The Arabic idiom is judged, by all Poetry *
who have ftudied it, to be moít hap*
pily adapted to poetry. With it, as
ítatues and piótures were forbidden by
their law, they adorned their public
buildings, palaces, and gardens.
Among the many beautiful epigrams
infcribed in every comer of the royal
caftle of the Alhambra in Granada,
I was peculiarly charmed with twenty-
four heroic verfes round the famous
fountain of the lions, tranílated by
Don Juan Velafquez de Echeverría,
cúrate of the pariíli-church in that
Z a palace,

34° A J O U R N E Y F R O M
M a l a c a - palace, and which, even in Engliíh,
do not entirely lofe their original
beauty.
Spccimen of " O you that behold thefe líons fixed in their
" place, take norice, that the breath of life is
t C only wanting to their perfeftion.
" And thou, who inheriteíl this place with
" the kingdoin, mayeft thou ever enjoy it, fur-
" rounded with thy nobles, without trouble or
" contradirüion.
" God profper thee for thy work, and never
" permit thine enemy to be avenged of thee.
K God forbid! that this beautiful garden,
£C lively image of thy virtues, may ever be
" rivalled by any other.
" All praife be to thee, our king Mahomad,
" whofe good qualities have paved the way to
" the accompliíhment of thy wiíhes.
" The fabric of this fountain is of pearl, in

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 34 T
" Like a ¡jve-íick youth, whofe vifage is B o o l c I V -
" clouded by forrow and fear of fpiteful envy,
" the water feems angry with the fnow-white
" marble, and the ítone jealous of the cryítal
" ítream.
" In its copious current may be feen the
" liberal and generous hand of our king, whofe
ftrength is that of a lion incenfed."
Not lefs beautiful is another in­
fcription, which formerly exifted on
the walls of a fmall royal fummer-
houfe, belonging to another garden
in the Alhambra, and built by Abial-
hageg Jufeph.
" Thou, O Jufeph, haft enabled me, and rcn- Anothtr,
" dered me worthy of praife, and with thy cle-
" mency and thy goodnefs haft favoured me;
" thou, who art eíteemed of all men for thy
" triumphs and glory, which from day to day
" are increafing.
" Time itfelf obeys and owns thee for its fu-
" perior, and every one rejoices in thy profperity;
" and I, above all, rejoice in the works of thy
" hands, fit emblems of thy greatnefs an4
Z 3

34a A J O U R N E Y F R O M
MALAGA. " In my fountain is a water of exquifite fla-
" vour, which fprings up on high with beautiful
*' harmony, and falls down in humiliation to thee.
" Its tremulous motion íhews refpeft but not
" fear •, for why íhould I wiíh to fly from Jufeph,

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A . 343
continued poem of íixty-íix thoufand BooK IV -
verfes [/]; fo the poets of Granada
compofed romances on the principal
battles and events of their time, which
were fung and handed down from
father to fon ; of fuch compofitions
they were particularly fond.
The Spaniards learned of the Moors From them ti«
Spaniards
learncd chem-
to record their fucceífes and victories
by romances; as during iix centuries
Spain was under a military barbarifm,
they were the beft and almoft the only
chronicles they had; and fucceeding
writers were forced to have recourfe
to them, and depend upon their au-
thorities, of which we have repeated
inftances in Morales. Many of thefe
oíd romances are loít; but about the
latter end of the íixteenth century, was
publiíhed in Madrid, an edition, in
quarto, of all thofe both hiílorical and
[f] Voyages de Chardin, vol. II. I have feen
a beauriful manufcript copy of this work in the
library of a friend in London.
VOL. I. Z 4 paítoral,

544 A J O U R N E Y F R O M
M a l a g a , paítoral, which were then prefervecl :
two fubfequent editions were printed
in 1602 and 1614; the former is in
my library ; as well as the fírít edi-
tion of Romances biflor icos deSepulveda,
Antwerp, 1551.
The abovementioned book of Guer­
ras Civiles, beíides the romances of
the Sierra Bermeja, comprehends the
battle of Los Alporchones in 1450;
the battle of Jaén, in the time of Au-
delbi; and the romance of the lofs of
Alhama by the father of the fame
prince; this laft was written in fo me-
lancholy a ítrain, that, a general dif-
content feizing the minds of the peo-
pie againft their king Alboacen, he
w r as obliged to forbid its being fung
under the fevereft penalties.
Romancero general Madrid, 1604. I t n e
odier day became poffeft of a curious poem in
qtiarto, wrote by Duarte Diaz, a native of
Oporto, in Spani'h, and in twenty-one Canro?,
entided Granada Conquifiada, printed in Madrid,.
159?. The fiegc of Malaga is very particuhrly
dc.cribed in the nth, I3th, and 14^h Cantos.
From

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 345
From among many other romances BooK IV -
of the moft famous feafts and tourna-
ments of the Moors, I have felected
one, the original of which muft have
been very ancient, as it relates the ca-
taftrophe of a Mooriíh knight in the
court of one of the kings of Toledo,
which city was re-conquered by the
Chriftians in the year 1085. In my
tranílation of it, my only care has
been to preferve the literal fenfe and
fpirit of the Spaniíh veríion.
ROMANCE.
I.
Ocho á ocho, diez á diez
Sarrazinos y Aliatares,
Juegan canas en Toledo
Contra Adalifes, y Azarques.
II.
Publico fieílas el Rey
Por las ya juradas pazes,
De Zayde rey de Belchite,
Y del Granadino Atarfe.
III.
Spaniíh Tranflation
of a
Mooriíh Romance.

A J O U R N E Y FROM
III.
Otros dizen que ellas fieftas
Sirvieron al rey de arhaques,
Y que Zelindaxa ordena
Sus fieftas y fus pefares.
IV.
Entraron los Sarracinos
En cavallos alafanes,
De naranjado y de verde
Marlotas y capellares.
V.
En las adargas trayan
Por empreffas fus alfanges
Hechos arcos de cupidon
Y por letra, " fuego y fangre."
VI.
Iguales en las parejas
Los liguen los Aliatares,
Con encarnadas libreas
Llenas de blancos follages.
VII.
Llevan por divifa un cielo
Sobre los ombros de Atlante,
Y un mote que aífi dezia;
" Tendrelo halla que me canfe."

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A .
VIH.
Los Adalifes íiguieron
MUÍ coftofos y galanes,
De encarnado y amarillo.
Y por mangas almayzales.
IX.
Era fu divifa un nudo
Que le defliace un Salvaje,
Y un mote fobre el bailón
J£n que dice < f Fuercas valon."
X.
Los ocho Azarques íiguieron
Mas que todos arrogantes
De azul, morado y pagifo,
Y unas hermofas plumages.
XI.
Sacaron adargas verdes
Y un Cielo azul, en que fe afen
Dos manos, y el mote dize
** En lo verde todo cabe."
XII.
No pudo fufrir el rey
Que á los ojos le moft rallen,
Burladas fus diligencias,
Y fu penfamiento en balde.

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
XIII.
Y mirando a la quadrilla
Le dixo á Selim fu Alcayde
Aquel Sol yo lo pondré
Pues contra mis ojos fale.
XIV.
Azarque tira bohordos
Que fe pierden por el ayre.
Sin que conofca la vifta
A do fuben, ni á do caen.
XV.
Como en ventanas comunes
Las damas particulares,
Sacan el cuerpo por ver le
Las de los andamios reales.
XVI.
Si fe adarga, ó fe retira,
De mitad del vulgo fale
Un gritar, " Alha! te guie"
Y del rey, " Un muera dadle."
XVII.
Zelindaxa fin refpeto
Al paffar por rociar le
Un pomo de agua vertía;
Y el rey grita, " paren, paren."

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA.
XVIII.
Creyeron todos que al juego
Parava por fer ya tarde;
Y repite el rey zelofo,
" Prendan al traydor de Azarque."
XIX.
Las dos primeras quadrillas
Dexando cañas aparte,
Piden langas, y ligeros
A prender al moro falen;
Que no ay quien baile
Contra la voluntad de un rey amante.
XX.
Las otras dos refiítian
Si no les dixera Azarque
" Aunque amor no guarde leyes,
" Oy es julio que las guarde."
XXI.
" Rindan lancas mis amigos,
" Mis contrarios lanfas algen."
Y con laílima y vicloria
Lloren unos, y otros callen.
Que no ay quien bañe
Contra la voluntad de un rey amante.
XXII.
349
BOOK IV.

A J O Ü R N E Í F R O M
XXII.
Prendieron al fin al moro,
Y el vulgo para librarle,
En acuerdos diferentes
Se divide, y fe reparte.
xxin.
Mas como falta caudillo,
Que los incite y los llame,
Se deíhacen los carrillos
Y fu motin fe deíhace :
Que no ay quien baile
Contra la voluntad de un rey amante.
XXIV.
Sola Zelindaxa grita
" Libradle meros, libradle,"
Y de fu balcón quería
Arrojarfe por librarle.
XXV.
Su madre fe abrafa dellá
Diziendo " loca que haces,
" Muera fin darle ü entender
" Pues por tu defdicha fabes :
" Que no ay quien baile
" Contra la voluntad de un rey amante.*
xxvr.

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 35*
Llegó un recado del rey,
En que manda que feríale
Una cafa de fus deudos,
Y que la tenga por cárcel.
xxvi. _!ülü:
XXVII.
Dixo Zelindaxa, " Digan
" Al rey, que por no trocarme
" Efcojo para prifion
" La memoria de mi Azarque,
" Yavra quien baile
" Contra la voluntad de un rey amante/
I.
In troops of eiglit, and troops of ten, Englífh Ver-
... . fion of it.
1 he Alitanan race,
With many a Saracinian chief,
Toledo's circus grace:
II,
To throw the cañe, and prove their ftrength,
With the Azarques bold,
With AdalhVs comely men,
The tournament to hold.

35* A J O U R N E Y F R O M
MALAGA.
— III.
Thefe royal fports the king proclaims,
For peace then lately made
Between Granada's prince Atarfe
And Belchite's king Zayde.
IV.
But Fame reports, the monarch's love
For a fair Mooriíh dame
Was the true caufe of all thefe feaíls:
Zelindaxa her ñame.
V.
Firft to the fleld, on fiery íteeds,
The Saracini flew,
Their cloaks and jackets richly flione,
Of green and orange hue.
VI.
Sharp fcymeters, embofl: with gold,
Each fliining target íhows
And letters which defiance bore
Againíl their country's foes.
VII.
Swiftly the Alitares next
Enter the liíled field i
A goodly fight their fcarlet coats
With fnow-white flow'rets yield.
VIII.

• I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A . 353
Their targets, for device the Iky»
By Atlas propt, did fliow,
And a motto fair, which faid,
" Until fatigued I grow."
IX.
Next Adalife's gallant knights
O'er the field ftately ride,
With coats of red and yellowclad,
A veil [u] to each arm tied.
X.
A double knot was their device,
By a wild man undone,
On whofe enormoos club was writ,
" This through our valour won."
XI.
The laft, but braveíl troop, the Moor
Azarque moíl portly leads:
Their vefts were purple mixt with blue,
And plumes adorn their heads.
[a] Almayzal is the Arabic ñame of a ftnped
filken veil, or head-drefs, worn by tHc Mooriíh
womcn. It was the ufual favour, in the days of
knight-errantry, for the ladies to give them to their
knights, who tied them as a íignal on their arms, as
being the mofl confpicuous place.
YOL. II. A a XII.

354 A J O UR N £ Y F R O M
MALAGA; XII.
On their green fhields ¡V],wi.th azureground,.
Two joined hands are féen,
And the letters there inferibed,
" Surrounded by the green."
XIII.
The furious king this emblem read,
And jealous could not bear
That Zelin'daxa's heart with tura
Another man fhould íhare.
XIV.
To Selim, his Alcayde, he faid,
" This Sun, which (bines fo bright,

G I B R A L T A R TO MALAGA. 355
' XVI. BOOK IV.
The admiring crowd tumultuous íhout,
" Alha thee íave !'* they cry:
The ladies, from the royal feats,
Applaud him paffing by.
XVII.
Tranfported Zelindaxa throws
[z] Perfumes upon her knight.
The king, with bitter grief and rage,
At this heart-breaking fight,
xvm.
then fudclenly tura the horfe back with equal fwift-
nefs. It was furely invented to train their horfes to
the Arabian manner of riding up to their enemy, and,
after caftíng javelins, retreating with expedition before
the adverfary could return their ftroke. This cuflom, as
as oíd as the Parthian empire in the Eaft, is, to this
day, prafticed in Arabia. Niehebuhr, in his defcrip­
tion of that country, has given us a píate wherein
the dola or governor and principal Arabs of Loheia
in Yemen are reprefented in quadrilles, throwing
canes at each othen
His prefent Catholick majefty revived this fport,
on the marriage of the prince of Alturias, at Madrid,
where the quadrilles were compofed of the noblelt
youth in the kingdonj, hended each by a prince of
the blood.
[z] The Spaniíh ladies have rf.tained from the
Moors their gallant way of throwing rofe-water, per-
A a 2 fumes,

A JOURNEY FROM
XVIII.
Calis to the cavaliers to caft
Their Hender canes away,
And the prefumptuous Azarque
To feize without delay.
XIX.
Two of the four quadrilks> with hafle,
Take lances in their hands;
For who (hall venture torefiíl
An angry king's commands ?
XX.
The other twowould fain haré foughí,
Their utmoft md to lend;
But Azarque cries, " la ?ain you try
*' To fave your wsetched frtend.
XXI.
*' Put down your lances j íet them come
" And ftrtke the deadly blow;
*' That I a lover trae expire
" This fatal day fhall Ihow."
fumes, fiowers, &c. on their lovers and favourite^.
as they pafs under their balconies during the carnival;
z liberty alíowed at no other feafon. Many a lady
waits the return of the carnival, to make this tacit
declaraticín of her fentiments.
XXII.

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A . 357
XXII.
Azarque, at iength, o'ercorae and feiz'd,
With grief the people fec,
And take up arms to give him help;
So well belov'd was he.
XXIII.
From her bakony Zelindaxa
Exclaims, with all her might,
" Save him, ye Moors, O fave him now,
" Preferve my faithful knight.
XXIV.
Then headlong down íhe ftrives to throw
Herfelf in fell defpair;
Her mother holds her in her arms,
And foothes her frantic care.
XXV.
u Doft thou not fee, my daughter dear,
" That nothing can withftand
" What a ftern, royal lover's rage
44 Shall cruelly command."
XXVI.
A meffage from the monarch carne,
Enjoining her to choofe
In fome relation's fecret houfe,
Her liberty to lofe.
A a 3 XXVII.
BooK IV.

358
MALAGA.
A J O U R N E Y F R O M
XXVII.
Fair Zelindaxa to the king
Made ftráightway this reply :
" The memory of Azarque fliall be
" My prifon till I die,
XXVIII.
" And thou fhak fee that I will daré
" Refift with conftaney,
( í Whate'er a favage, bloody king
" May impioufly decree."
The foliowing verfes I have like-
wife copied from the Guerras Civiles,
The author of the Spaniíh verfíon
exprefsly fays, that it is a literal
tranílation of the original Arabic. ít
is of a much more modera date than
that above cited, treating of an affair
which paífed during the reígn of the
laíf. king of Granada. The romance
jnforms us, that Zayd, captain of a
Mooriíh galley, entertained on board
his veíTel? in the bay of Almería, the
fair

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 359
fair Zayde and her father. This B°°"i v-
lady, with whom he fell in love,
favourably hearkened to, and pro-
mifed to receive, his addreífes, if he
would leave the fea, and íerve her at
the Court of Granada; but her father,
being of a difFerent tribe, and enemy
to the family of Zayde, as foon as
he found it out, ordered and forced
his daughter to break oíf all inter-
courfe with him; which Zayd inter-
preting as a change in her affeítions,
refolved to return to the fea, and, in
the night before his departure, fung
this fonnet under her window.
A a 4 SO

3¿o
MACACA.
Spanilh Tranflationof
a
Moorifc Son-
A J O U R N E Y F R O M
S O N E T O .
Englift Ver- I.
ion of itr
Vain tears, which thy obdurate heart
I.
Lagrimas que no pudieron
Tanta dureza ablandar,
Yo las bolveré a la mar,
Pues que de la mar falicron.
II.
Hizieran en duras peñas
Mis lagrimas fentimiento;
Tanto que de fu tormento
Dieran unas y otras fenas.
III.
Y pues ellas no pudieron
Tanta dureza ablandar
Yo las bolveré á la mar
Pues que de la mar falicron.
Nerer, alas! could move,
I will return them to the fea,
From which firíl fprung my love.

GIBRALTAR TO MÁLAGA.
II.
The adamantine rocks, more kind,
Took piry on my pain ;
They liítenirig connted all my íighs,
' And echoed each again.
III.
Therefore to them I harte a way i
To tell my tale of grief,
And to the fea's lefs hoílile fliores,
Fly qnickly for relief.
The Albóndiga* or market-place ofp=AiW
Malaga, has all the appearance of hav- Kd,fu:c:
ing had the fame deftination under
the moors. It had then, over its en-
trance, an infcription refpecting its
ufe, though long íince efFaced.
Of the Mooriíli coinf/? 1 , vcry man y
are daily picked up in Spain. In my
cabinet
[a] Large qmnmies of the Mooriíh money
have been found in the holes of buildinp-s, wa!ls,
and iecret places, where they were hid by the
Moors. In the year 1644, a loldier belonging
VOL. II. A a 4 to
'361
BOOK IV.

A j Ó Ü R Ñ E Y F R O M
AGAl cabinet I have a great variety in gold,
íilver, and braís; both of thofe itruck in
the eaft by the A rabian Caliphs, which
have
to the caílle of Monfon in Aragón, on entering
into a cave formed in the rock, on which the
caílle is built, faw a piece of gold fall from a
hole above him; which, eularging with his
fword, he difcovered above three huudred more,
all with Mooriíh charaéters, and of puré gold,
according to the tellimony of Laílinofa, who
bought feveral of them. As the Arabs were
drove out of Arragon fo early as the year nio,
this hoard muft have remained undifcovered
above 500 ycars. The mines out of which the
Moors extrafted their ore may be clearly known
to the mineralogiíl by the form of their wells,
which are cut fquare, different from the Romans,
who worked their wells round, as lefs liable to
fall in.
Since the two plates of coins were engraved,
I have received from Spain above fifty varieties
of braís Spaniíh Defconocida coins, and ten vari­
eties in íilver, which I may one day publiíh, On
the reverfe of the tenth of thofe engraved, the
horfeman bears a pahn ¡11 his right hand, and behind
him flows the rich white garmcnt of the ancient
Spaniards,

G I B R A L T A R TO MALAGA.
have heads and figures on them (bor-
rowed from the Chriftian ftates they
conquered) as of the kings of Gra­
nada, who never ufed any, but ftampt
on
Spaniards, mentioned book I. p. 89. Neither
that ñor the firít have ever been publiíhed,
except imperfectly by Laftinofa, -whofe book is
very fcarce and in very few libraries. I have a
good copy of it, as well as of Velafquez; thefe
two are the only Spaniíh authors who have at-
tempted to write on thefe coins: it is imponible to
afcertain where many of them were ílruck; yet
there are others, on which, although for fome
time after they were reduced under the power of
the Romans, they continued their ancient types
and charañers, on the fide of the head of the coin
they frequently added the ñame of their town
in Latin letters, and thereby we know to which
place they belong ; this was pra&iced at Obulco,
Ceifa, Oficerda, Saguntum, Cadix, Amba, and
Afido.
The types on the three lafl: coins have ¡n-
duced the Spaniíh antiquaries to fix them at San
i,ucar de Barrameda, anciently called Luciferi
Fanujn,

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
on their money the date of the He-
gira, ñame of their prince, or a fen-
tence from the Alcorán; therefore, as
they afford little variety, I have only
engraved
Fanum. The heads are of Vulcan. One of
the reverfes (hows the radiated head of Venus,
which, according to Cicero, is the fame with the
goddefs of the Sidonians, called in the Scrip-
tures Airarte j over the hair hangs a ítring of
pearls. The fecond bears the morning-ítar,
within a wreath of myrtle, a tree facred to
Venus; and on the third is the fame ftar on the
frontifpiece of the temple of that goddefs, from
whence the city took its ñame. This laft, father
Flores has publiíhed as exceeding rare; my coin
is infinitely better preferved, and, I believe, no ca-
binet in England poffeíTes another. At the noble
mufeum of Dr. Hunter, now become the richefl
and moft numerous in England, are a fuite of
above forty Spaniíh Difconocida coins, I had there
lately an opportunity to compare and corren my
drawing of the coin number XXI. of Carteia,
and at the fame time of confirming my opinión
given

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A .
éngraved a fmall filver-piece in my
pofléflion, and found in Malaga. The
workmaníhip of it is neatly executed,
though the charaóters are fo very mi­
nute,
given of it in the firft tolume of this work,
\rith the corroborating circumílance that the
head originally was moft certainly turreted,
the outline of the higheft and one iide of
the fecond turret being ftill to be traced
on the coin, and fecured by a green, clear
patina. I am forry in this point to diífent from
thofe for whofe judgement in the numifmatic
fcience I have the greateft opinión and deference,
being willing to allow with them, that the profilc
of the face (although Hule or nothing differing
from the other coins of Carteia, ñor in the length
of the neck on which fo great a ítrefs is laid),
has fomething of the air of the heads of Julius
Cajfar, in whofe days the coin might very likely
be ftruck; but if this before us was intended by
the mint-mafter to reprefent that emperor, all
thofe of Carteia, with the turreted head, muft
equally belong to him, which will hardly be
pretended or infifted on by any antiquary; for
whofe

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
the mole from the Weítern. winds;
thence, under the town walls, is a
ílately quay, built of free ítone, twelve
feet high, with a parapet, and adorned
with trees. This work reaches Eaft-
ward 3000 feet, to beneath the hill
of Gibralfaro, where the mole ad-
vances in the fea due South 3200,
with a platform underneath 20 feet
broad, defcending by fteps into the
water. In the middle of it is a very
handfome chapel, adorned with a
marble portal, where fervice is per»
formed at the expence of the king,
for the conveniency of the Román
Catholic mariners. The whole has a
communication with the mole above
by feveral flights of íteps.
This upper caufe-way is 60 feet
broad; on it three coaches may drive
7 abreaft;

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A .
abreáft. Behind the chapel is a
guard-houíe for a company of fol-
diers; and, furtlier on, a Pharos, in-
tended to be removed to the poiní of
the mole, which, when finiflied, will
be fortified by a battery to command
the entranee.
This mole aíFords a grand arid plea-
fant walk for the inhabitants of the
town, who here enjoy the coolnefs of
the fea-breeze, the pleafure of angling,
and the view of every fhip in the
harbour; It was begun in 1588,
under the dirección of Fabius, Bur-r
fotus; the other pier was built in
1719^ by order of Philip V. under
the diredtion of Moníiehr Turri, a
Freneh engiheer. It wás intended to
advance as far intó the fea as the
fippoíite one; but Monfieur Turri
VOL. II. B b dying,

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A .
abreáft. Behind the chapel is a
guard-houfe for a company of fol-
diers; and, further on, a Pharos, in-
tended to be removed to the poin'c of
the mole, which, when finiílied, will
be fortified by a battery to command
the entranee.
This mole afFofds a grand aild plea-
fant walk for the inhábitants of the
town, who here enjoy the coolnefs of
the fea-breeze, the pleafure of angling,
and the view of every íhip in the
harbour. It was begun in 1588,
under the direcüon of Fabius Bur-?
fotus; the other pier was built in
1719¿ by order of Philip V. under
the dirección of Monfieur Turri, a
Freneh engirieer. It was intended to
advance as far into the fea as the
oppoíite one; but Monfieur Turri
VOL. II- B b dying,

37© A JOÜRNÉY f iOÍÍ
MALACA, dying, his fuccefíbr did hot think Út
to continué it*
Here ñeets of íliips, even thofe of
war of the firft rate, may fafely ride
in all weathers: the eafterly winds
receiving by it a check, have thrown
up, by degrees, fuch a quantity of
fand at the back of the mole, as to
caufe a ftrand, which in time will
advance to its point; but the moft
dangerons enemy of this harbour,
and which in time will certainly ruin
Agua Medina, are the fluíhes of the Agua Me­
dina; this arrojo, though it is dry three
parts of the year, after heavy rains
brings down dehiges of water, and
with an impetuolity that fweeps away
with it prodigious quantities of earth,
which it hurries into the fea, and by
S ft»

G I B R A L T A R TÓ M A L A G A .
the help of the tide depofes on che
Eaítern fliore; this; I apprehcnd, is
bwing to the late cültivation with
vines of van: traéis of thé moun^
tainsj Whence the rains defcend;
Whereas yearly the earth is ffeíh *
movedj fo every flüíh hurries it
yearly into the ítream;
Thefe laíi ten years it lias fofíried a
beách of ioo yards deep¿ even to the
head of the little mole, and of courfe,
in fubfequent floods, the depdíit will
be carried direetly into the hafbour,
and foon choak it up. An engineer,
fent from Madrid to examine into and
remedy this mifchief¿ gave it as his
opinión, that it might be éffecled two
Ways; either by running out the
little mole with all precipitation, ac-
fcording to the plan of Monf. Turri, or
Bb i elfe

372 A J O U R N E Y F R O M
M a l a o a - elfe by turning the current of the Agua
Medina, by means of dykes, from the
back of the Trinity up to the river.
In the time of the Moors, the fea
waíhed. the foot of the Gibralfaro,
and bathing the walls of the town,
furrounded the efpollon, or round
tower, which projedts from the Atta-
razanas, and much the fame did it
continué till íince I knew Malaga.
Cathcilral „ , , . r . , ,
churchof The chier ornament, pude, and
Malaga;
glory, of the city of Malaga, is its
magnificent cathedral, which claims a
rank among the moíl fuperb temples
of Europe, for the boldnefs and height
of its fabric, the richnefs of its ma-
terials, and the immenfe fums that
have been fpent in its conítruction;
though it muíl be allowed to be in­
ferior

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 373
ferior to many, inñnitely lefs coftly, B o O K 1V -
for its want of fymmetry and fre-
quent deviation from the rules of
architecture, wherein the intelligent
eye beholds, with pain, a mixture of
the [¿] Gothic and Román ítile.
It is built of a fine free-ftone, of a
light yellowifli caft, which having
been 250 years in raifing, and the
ftones not all taken out of one quarry,
or of the fame caft, the Spaniards, to re-
ftore the uniformity of the colour, have
plaftered the whole íhell with mortar
mixed with the duft of the ftones; a
manceuvre which, in length of time,
as it peéis off, will have a very ill
effeít.
[b~\ I mean, as to the outíide of the fabric,
for within it is perfe&ly regular.
Bb 3
The

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 373
ferior~ to many, infinitely lefs coftly, B o o K 1V -
for its vvant of fymmetry and fre-
quent deviation from the rules of
architecture, wherein the intelligent
eye beholds, with pain, a mixture of
the [¿] Gothic and Román ftile.
It is built of a fine free-ftone, of a
light yellowiíh caft, wiiich having
been 250 years in raiíing, and the
ñones not all taken out of one quarry,
or of the fame caft, the Spaniards, to re-
ftore the uniformity of the colour, have
plaftered the whole íhell with mortar
mixed with the duft of the ftones; a
manceuvre which, in length of time,
as it peéis off, will have a very ill
effeít.
\y] I mean, as to the outfide of the fabric,
for within it is perfc&ly regular.
Bb 3
The

374 A
J O P R N E Y F R Q M
. M a l a g a - The firft ítone of this church wa§
Sf^»; laid by the Cardinal C^sfar Riario^
commonly íliled El Cardinal de la
RofTa, biíhqp of Malaga, in the year
1528. Its primitiyp architeét^ and
who gave the plan pf the building,
was the celebrated Juan Baptifta To­
ledo, that built the roya], monaítery of
the Efcurial, by order of Philip II.
|tsFront; rrhe frqnt of this church extendí
163 feet, without reckoning the
towers. It confifts of a double row
of pillars of the Corinthian and Com-
pofite order; the fbrmer has eight
columns of the height of twelvfc
yards and a half, and with the pe-*
deílals and entablatures rifes fixty-twq
feet,
The

G I B R A L T A R TQ M A L A G A .
The fecond order (whofe corniíhj
and architrave goes round the body
of the church) is twenty yards high;
the whoie being crowned with a fron-
tifpiece of forty-five feet, on which is
placed an image of our blefTed Saviour.
Eight other ftatues are deíigned to
accompany it over the pedeftals of the
railing on the roof,
This front is entirely cafed with
white marble, and adorned with three
ílately portáis, ornamented with pil-
Jars of a very rich red jafper. Over
the grand door is carved, in a medal- 1
lion, the Annunciation of our Lady;
and above, the collateral ones, St.
Cyriaco and St. Paula, patrons of Ma­
laga, who fuffered martyrdom under
Diocleíian and Maximinian, in the
fourth century.
B b 4 The

376 A J O U R N E Y F R O M
, M a ^ g a - The two towers that flank the front
Thetpwtrb,.^ church are fifty feet fquare,
and projeít from the main building
ten yards and an half; their height,
when finiíhed, will be nearly three
hundred feet.
From their angles advances a
handfome marble balluftrade, which
accompanies a flight of eighteen íleps
of white marble.
líorth and _ _
South Doors; The North and South gates are
Gothic, immenfely heavy, ill-íhaped,
and void of beauty. On each lide of
them are two round towers, one of
which I have introduced in my third
View of Malaga; they rife above the
portal thirty feet, and their diameter
fs twenty-two.
When

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 377
When you enter the front doors B a 0 K l v -
of this temple, you are ftruck withcímrdíf thc
the loftinefs of the roof, which
is 125 feet high, and, between the
two rows of pillars that fupport it,
forms fo many little domes, finely
fculptured and fretted. Thofe in the
center iíle are richly gilt, as well as
the columns round the great altar,
from top to bottom.
At the fame time you are difgufted The Cil6 "'
with having the perfpective of
both obftruóted by a heavy, maffy
ftone choir, built after the faíhion of
Spain, quite fliut up and feparated
from the [c] altar in the body of the
church. This choir within is moft
[c] The cathedrals of Spain differ from
thofe in France and England, where the choir
accompanies the high altar: here it is feparated.
highly

G I B R A L T A R T O M A L A G A . 379
Thefe chapéis are forty-eight feet B e o K IV -
high, thirty broad, and eighteen

3»o
MALA.GA.
A J O U R N E Y F R O M
Niño has left monuments of his
art in the convent of the Victoria, and
in that of St. Francis; and the high
altar of the church of St. Pedro Al'
cantara is by his hand.
Another excellency of this church
is the perfect and equal light it enjoys,
being illuminated by 159 windows;
the pavernent is of very fine red and
white fquares of marble, highly
poliíhed,
r»Dtpth4«» Thedepth of the building within,
from the front door to the wall of the
center chapel, is 340 feet; without,
including the thicknefs of the walls
and the advance of the towers, it
rneafures 400.
The

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . ^
The biíbop's palace is a handíbme
B o o K
building juft finiíhed : the principal fa 1 c f ^ ps
facade forms one part of the cathedral
fquare : a fountain is eredted in the Foumai;
middle : the portal of the palace is
marble, and adorned with pillars of
red and white jafper, which may be
perceived in my View of the cathedral.
The city of Malaga at prefent con- Modcm
íifts of four pariihes, thirteen convents
of friars, eleven nunneries, two col-
leges [c], and five hofpitals. The
ílreets are narrow and crooked, as beft
fuited in this very hot climate, to
keep out the fun and draw the air ;
the convenience and necefftty of their
conftruction, lias been ill underftood,
and fooüihly cenfured by more than
one of our Engliíh writers oftravels;
the ílreets of Malaga are kept very
fc\ NotwithítanJing the teíliniony of Pulgar,
quoic;.! pagt-d 327, I am inclined to follow the
opinión of Murtiu de Roa, who lays exprefsly,
that the Canillo de los Gencrfes was built under
t!u A ic ifaí':t on the beach of toe fea, the fame
dcíeribcd by me page ^94, line 16.
Yol. II. B b 7 clean :

384 A J O Ü R K E Y FRÓItí
M a l a c a : While I was at Granada, I fpent á
?MoS n o f moft agreeable day at the feat of a
Houfe near , M Í * 1
Granada. nobleman, about a mile trom the city¿
built on the declivity of a hill that
defcended to the river Darro.- The
houfe and gardens were juft as they
were left by the Moors.- The whole
front of the edifice was entirely open,-
and formed a noble fáloon, the roof
of which was fupported by pillars of
jafper, refting on marble feats; it
was kept perpetually cool by two
fountains that rofe higher than the
cieling, being received above it into
as many little domes. At the entrance
of this charming room, you had an
oppofite view of a very long walk,
íhaded by high arches of vines; a
row of fountains, fifty in number^
were placed the whole length of the
alley, and the profpect bounded by a
grotto,

G I B R A L T A R TO M Á L A G A * ^8J
grotto, from the top of which fell a Boolc IV -
cafcade [

386 A J O U R N E Y F R O M
M a L A 0 A - ber of houfes cxceeds 5000, whereiny
according to Don Francifco Barban,
live 41,600 íbuls; another ingenious
gentleman favonred me with a calcu-
lation, which increafes the inhabitants
to 75,000. Malaga is known to
confume daily 1000 fanegas of wheat,
which produce 25,000 pounds of
bread; but from this computation
muft be deducted a considerable quan-
tity carried on board the íhips in the
hay and mole.
•nieR):ci,.i„s.-. On the beach formed by the fluíhes
of the Agua Medina, oppoíite the
Puerta Efparteria, the merchants have
built an Exchange, and planted white
alamos [/] round it, which thrive pro-
digioufly, their roots finding freíh-
water at a very little depth.
[/] The poplar-tree.
The

G I É R A L T A R f O MALAGA. ¿8?
The énvirons of Maíaga to the B o o K l v - |
Weítward are very fertile anct pleafant, MakgT
as may be conceived by the ampie
defcription I have given of the Hoya;
from the North and Eáítward the
approach to the town is both rough
and fteep, being hemmed-in by the
mountains: the jurifdiétion of the city
extends over them twelve leagues*
Thefe hills, under different ñames, &r =»p"°n f
ü f M a l a g a :
bound the whoie fea-coaíl of the
kingdom of Granada, and form a
ílupendous barrier raifed by the hand
of Nature as a fure defence againíf
the encroachments of the feá< They
prefent, from the toWn, a moíí;
barren and unpromiíing profpecl:;
their tops are immenfely bigh, the
vallies very íhallow and deép, and
both one and the other generally en-
C c 2 cumbered

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
cumbered with huge manes of Iive
ftone and mgged rocks, which render
the roads through them not only very
fatiguing, but in many parts exceed-
ingly dangerous, they coníifting of
nothing more than a foot-path formed
by the borricos, or aíTes, often not
twelveinch.es wide, and anhorrid preci-
pice almoft perpendicular beneath. A
worthy gentleman of this commerce
J O
periíhed together with bis horfe, in
going to his vineyard two years ago;
and accidents of the kind are frequent.
A clergyman, returning from a chapel,
was benighted the winter before, and
fell with his mulé into a hollow,.
where he was found fome days after
half eaten up by wolves; one ílip of
the foot, or the loofing of a ftone, pre-
cipitating the unfortunate traveller
into certain deftrucfion.
i It

G I B R A L T A R TO MALAGA. 589
It is in thefe iron-lookinq- moun- B o O K 1V -
O .
tains, and among thefe pceled lhaa '^ úí '-'
[jf\ rocks, where there is no
appearance of foil or earth, that
grow annually fo many thoufand tun
of exquiíite wine, and aftoniíhing
quantities of Mofcatel raifins, Jordán
almonds, and excellent figs, equalled
by none produced in any part of
Europe; an inexhauftible fund of
riches to above an hundred thoufand
fouls, and of a moft lucrative trade
that extends over the whole face of
the globe, to \b~\ all parís of the
[%] The Spaniards cali fuch rocks as are
not covered with any foil, Pelado, peeled, as I
believe I have already mentioned.
[h~] The North American íliips have lately
found their way to Malaga ; fourteen or fixteen
of them, for feveral years paft, annually have
loaded wines and fruits here at the Vintage. From
Cádiz, thefe anieles are exported for every part
of New Spain, and cven to the Philippines.
C c 3 North,

590 A J O U R N E Y F R O M
M a l a c a - North, to America, the Weft Iridies,
and the Eaft.
Mofcatci Raí- mofcatel raifin of Malaga is a
moft delicious fruit: from the an^
cient manner of preferving thefe rai^
fms in earthen jars, Statius calis theim
üvae Ollares,
Ollares, rogo, non llcebat uvas, &c,
Statius Silv. lib. iv.
Among the ruins of Herculaneum
was dug up a picture, wherein were
rcprefented two jars of raiíins; one
open, and full of fruit; the other
clofed, and the cover tied on with a
ribband paffing through three little
handles near the mouth of the jar.
The open jar is exactly of the íhape
and make of thofe now in ule at Ma­
laga

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 391
luga without handles; therefore the Bo °* IV -
lid that lies by it muft have been fixed
on, according to the manner of the Spa­
niards at this day, with a mortar of
Yefo: probably thefe two jars were of
different countries, and this latter oniy
from the coaft of Spain. That the
ancients thus cemented the lids of
their wine and fruit-pots we learn.
•Columella Gaditanus.
Confeiti.ru opercula gypfare et pellicare.
Lih. XII. cap. xlirí.
The method of putting a íkin
under the cover has been long íince
left off, probably as uíelefs, the Mala-
gueneans having added that of in-
clofing the jar with a cafe of fparto,
thereby eífedfually feouring their brit*
tle texture from blows.
Ce 4 All

39^ A J O U R N E Y F R O M
TMALAG a. ¿¿I this prodigious quantity of wine
ciíiiy^f^he an( ^ fr mt is brought from the moun-
Dómeos. t aj n s o r i tj^ e ^acks
0f fae borricos, It
has often amazed me to obferve the
docility ancl inftinct of thefe ufeful
animáis, of whom the French natura*
liíl has not pronounced an unmerited
panegyric [/'],
Slow in their pace, fure of their
footing, they march in troops, called
by the Spaniards Requas, of fifty, an
hundred, or two hundred beaíls, all
conducled by one driver, who is ever
the laft of the company; as they go
one after another in the fame path,
which they never quit, and often
lagging behind, a Requa frequently
reaches near a mile, The foremoft
ais, ítiled El Liviano, is a very valuar
[í] SpecTacle de la Na ture, Ent. izf
ble

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 393
ble creature; he is taught never to let BOOK iv.
any of the troop go before him. On
arriving at two or three paths, ñriking
different ways, the Liviano ftops íhort,
and with him all the reft. The mafter,
judging the reafon, afcends fome emi-
nence whence he can fee the leader,
and with a halloo orders him to pro-
ceed; the beaft takes one road ílowly;
if not the right, another halloo in-
forms him of his miftake; he tries a
fecond, and fo on till the driver lets
him quietly proceed. Arrived in Ma­
laga, the Liviano ftops in the very firft
íbreet, and waits for his mafter, who
takes the bell round his neck, and
therewith calis together all the troop,
which he then conducís himfelf to
the houfe of its deftination.
The

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
The Hoya of Malaga very fre-
quently íuífers for want of rain, the
mountains of the Sierra de Ronda
keeping the South-well clouds from
paííing; and this winter, 1772,
though all the inland parts of Anda-
lucia have been drenched with water,
at Malaga and in the Vale they had
fcarce a drop. This drought, which
often endangers the crops of corn,
contributes principally to the fweet-
nefs, flavour, and foundnefs of body
of the Malaga wine, the mountains
being fufíiciently refreíhed by the
damps and mifts with which they are
frequently covered, that benent the
vines infinitely more than heavy rains,
which, 'on the contrary, injure
their roots, by waíhing away the foíl,
in fome places not flx inches deep.
It is wonderful to fee how they delight
and

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 395
and flouriíli in the moft rocky fitua
tions.
" Ad fummam quondam ubertatem
( i vini, frumenti vero inopiam, exiíti-
" mans, nimio vinearum iludió negligi
" arva, edixit né quis in Italia novel-
" laret: utque in provinciis viñeta
fucciderentur, relióla, ubi plurimum,
" dimidia parte." Suet. in Vit. Dom.
_ Boon IV.
The cultivation of vines is almoíl^X¿
as oíd as the world itfelf. A me-" 0 "'
morable proof we have in the hiílory
of Lot and his two daughters. During
the reign of Domitian, on a general ^;¿^1 of1
fcarcity of corn all over the Román
empire, that prince publiíhed an edidr,
to order half of the vines all over the
provinces to be torn up, and wheat
lbwn in their room.
It

A JOURxNTEY FÜOM
It was on the occafion of this uni-
verfal deftruction of the vineyards,
that the following elegant and menac-
ing diftich was handed about at Rome.
Kr¡'v ¡Jtt $¿yv¡( S7rl pi^JtVj Ó¡íUí íxi xoipwoQofwUf
Tear up my very roots, your care is vain,
Wine to produce, enough will yet remain,
To pour oblations on the tyrant ílain.
Vopifcus informs us, that the etn-
peror Probus, about 170 years after,
permitted and encouraged the re-
planting of the vines in Spain, Gaul,
and Britain.
" Gallis ómnibus, et Hifpanis, ac
" Britannis permiíit, ut vites haberent,
" vinumque conficerent." Flavius
Vopifcus, in Vita Probi.
The

G I B R A L T A R TO MALAGA. 397
The freíhnefs of the climate, ro-
In Spain the feafon of making wine^
is looked upon as a time of great fef-
tivity, and celebrated with rejoicings
that border on licentioufnefs. While
the vintage continúes, all diírin¿tion
and refpecr. is forgot; the owner of
the vineyard puts alide his auíterity
with his cloak, and cries out to his
fervants, " Ea! hermanos el juicio
" ya.
B o o i c I V
mantic fituations, and beauty of theirc^mmlrcctT
. , the Müun-
profpects, invite the gentlemen of thetabs.
commerce, notwithftanding the diífi-
culty of their accefs, to fpend great
part of the fummer in thefe moun-
tains, where they have all vineyards
and houfes, fome of them nioft mag-
nificent, adorned with gardens, flatues,
and fountains, and every embelliíli-
ment of art.

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
" ya fe fue." " Let us be merry,
" my companions, wifdom is fled out
" of the window." The lord thence-
forward eats at the fame board with
his family; and at the hour of dinner
you may fee his lady fcrambling with
the ruftics to get the beft place, and
ftick firft her wooden fpoon in the
bowl of foup. After dinner, as the
chearful goblet goes round, you will
hear many bitter ftrokes of fatire
from the clowns, not only on the
natural or imaginary defects of one
another, but with equal liberty at
thofe of their lord and lady, who, far
from being offended, encourage their
freedom, by retorting their jokes; a
cuftom that has been preferved in this
country ever fince the Romans fet
footing in it, as well as that of abuíing,
in

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 399
in the loudeft and fouleíl manner, B 3 0 K Iv -
thofe who pafs by the vineyards all
the time they are gathering the
grapes; and, what is more remarkable,
they now make ufe of the very fame
epithets [¿] as the rude vintager did
in the days cf Horace.
Durus
Vindimiator, et invictus, cui fepe viator
Ceffiífet, magna compellans voce cuculum.
Hor. Sat. I. vii. 31.
Their favourite liquor at the vin-
tage is the Agua-pie, or fecond pref-TheA- P¡c.
ling of the grapes after water has
been poured over them; it is pleafant
and wholefome. The ñame alludes
to the manner in Spain of treading
[k~] Hijo de la grandiffima Puta, Cabrón,
putilTima, &c.
out

4-0O A J O U R N E Y F R O M
M A t A G A - out the fruit bare-footed. The Spa­
niards borrowed the method of mak-
ing the Agua-pie from the Romans,
who ftiled it Lora, and uíed to give
it for drink to their ílaves.
At this time they catch, in great
plenty, on the mountains of Malaga,
rhepka-figo. t l i e delicious Picafigo. This little
bird was anciently called Ficedula, and
ranked by the Romans among their
choiceíl dainties. The emperor Ti-
berius rewarded Afellius Sabinus [/]
with 200,000 fefterces, for having
compofed a dialogue, wherein the
picafigo, the Oyfter, the Thruíh, and
the Muíhroom, difpute the precedence
at the table of the epicure.
[/] Suetonius, Vit. T¡b.
Martial,

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 401
Martial, with great humour, has BOOKIV.
made the Ficedula complain, for not
having been rather named from the
grape than the fig, íince he equally
fed and fattened on both.
Cttm me ficus alat, cum pafcar dulcibus uvís,
Cur potius nomen non dedit uva mihi?
Lib. xiii. Epigr. 49.
In no part of Spain the olive thrives olive tlcc -
better than in the environs of Malaga.
The wood of this moft ufeful tree
mak.es excellent fuel; it yields but a
fcanty íhade, and the dingy colour
of its leaf has a melancholy afpe6t;
but its want of beauty is made up to
its owner by the richnefs and valué
of its produce [/z].
All
[n~\ The fruk he re is of the fuil fize of a'da-
mafetne i.-lumb, and very fie&y; the oil it
Vcl. IL D d y'.elds

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
MALAGA. All the Sierra of Malaga is impreg-
Süver mine in
Gibraifaro. nated with filver mines. In 1666,
two citizens openedone in Gibralfaro
Hill, and extracted a great many
grains of lilver; but the extreme
hardnefs of the ftone, and the
dearnefs of manual labour foon
obliged them to deíift; for the fame
reafon lay neglecfted the many rich
mines for which Andalucia has been
fo celebrated by the ancients.
yields is not efteemed fo delicate as that pro-'
duced by the olives on the coaft of Valentía,
which are in general finaller: the difference in
the quality doubtlefs arifes from a more happy
roethod of making the oil; in Andalucia the
olive as foon as it is thoroughly ripe and turned
black, is gathered and thrown on heaps, where
they remain till they are rotten before they are
carried to the mili; the Spaniards efteeming that
they thereby encreafe the quantity of oil, they
prefs them together with the ftones.
The

G I B R A L T A R f O M A L A G A . 403
The fathers Mohedano [«] have B 0 0 K IV -
Committed an error in affirming, that
the Spaniíh mines were never culti-
vated by the Moors or Goths: the
contrary we learn from the chronicles
of the former; and if the Goths had not
known their valué, they would never
have taken füch pains to block up and
difguife the entrances of the mines at
the irruption of the Moors.
During thereignof Charles V, the Mil4csofth!s
0 0 7 Province
knowledge of this fubterraneousTtIíe e of ntlMÍ
wealth reviving with that of the 0 '^ 1 " V "
learnéd langüages, and a tafte for the
ftudy of antiquities, father Pineda
aíTures us, that in Andalucía alone,
above 500 gold and íilver mines were
opened, fome of them proving as
rich as the celebrated mountain of
[k] Hiílorta Litteraria de Efp;!n3*
D d 2 Potoíi.

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
Potoíi. Not far from Seville was
worked a mine in El Cerro de la
Galera, near the Sierra de Guadacanal,
from which, for every quintal or hun­
dred weight of ore or earthy ftone, they
extracted 25 ounces of fine -filver;
and under the city itfelf, on digging
the foundations of the college of San
Hermenegildo near the river, was
found a vein of gold, in a coarfe dark
bed of fand. The mine of Villa Gui-
tierre near Almodover del Campo,
likewife in the diftrict of Seville, was
at the fame time worked by 300
miners, and yielded daily 1560
ounces of filver.
The wánt of induítry, according to
father Pineda, was one grand reafon
for abandonino' all thefe valüable
diicoveries. 1 bclieve we may add,
the

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A .
the great expence of working them;_^
the flow of wealth through a more
eafy channel from the Weft Indies;
the great detriment they would occa-
íion, in a country but ill-populated,
to agriculture and huíbandry; and
the prerogative of the king, who
would after all run away with the
cleareít gain, claiming one-fifth as his
due.
In the month of May 1637,^,
2.0,000 of the inhabitants of this city
died of the plague, which viíited them
again twelve years after, and carried
away the greater part of the citizens.
Notwithftanding this, the air of Malaga
is very good, températe, and whoiefome,
though it would be exceííively hot but
for the conftant refreíhing breezes
from the fea during the fummer:
P d 3 they

A J O U R N E Y FROM
• they geherally rife about ten or ele-i
ven, for which reafon I obferved the
heat to be more infupportable at five
or íix in the morning than at noon-
day. It is remarkable, that the Eaft-
erly winds, which blow with great
violence at Gibraltar eight months in
the year, here are feldom felt; and I
have feen íhips detained five months
in the bay of Malaga, waiting to
go to the Weftward.
! * The wind which reigns here moft
coníiantly is the Terral, or North; a
Iceen, drying wind at all times; in
the wintcr exceííively cold and íharp;
but during the fummer months fo in­
tolerable hot, that no human creature
could endure it, were it to laft long:
the very air is on fire; the inhabitants
are then obliged to keep their doors
anc|

G I B R A L T A R TO MALAGA. 407
and Windows clofe Ihut; they con- E o o i c IV -
tinually throw water on their floors,
and feldom ítir out till it changes,
which it never fails to do in two or
three days.
Of the fruits peculiar to this coun- e g°-
A chumbo;
try, the Higo-chumbo [0] draws the
attention of every curious ítranger.
It is very plenty at Malaga, and in no
part better flavoured; the common
people eat this fruit all the feafon with
great eagernefs, and even after bath-
ing, without any ill effe¿"t. The phy-
licians eíleem it cooling and whole-
fome.
[0] In my View of the Orange Grove near
Gibraltar, may be fe en the Higo-chumbo, as
well as the Spaniíh aloe, the beíl and moft com­
mon fence in this country.
D d 4 This '

40-8 A J O U R N E Y F R Q M
M a l a g a - This is the Ficus Spinofa of the
spiíofí; CUS botanifts. To propágate it, they thruft
ríopagróoL" 8 a fíngle l e a f i n t o t n e ground; the
more barren, dry, and hard the foil,
the better it thrives: the leaf taking
root produces other leaves on its edges 5
and a fuccefTiori following yearly, the
Jower ones turn brown, and acquire
the coníiftence of a fpungy wood,
A more ill-íhaped ugly plant groWS
not, and, I may add, not one more ill-
natured, both its leaves and fruit
being furrounded with íharp thorns,
whence its Latin ñame is derived. On
the crown of the Higo-chumbo grows
a ycllcw flower, M'hich, as it rjpens,
dies away, and then the fruit itfelf
becomes of the lame colour.
There is another fpecies of this
plant in the Weft Indies, quite
d;íFerent

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 409
different from ours. It is a low BQOKIV.
íhrub, the leaf coníiderably fmaller
as well as the fruir, which is more'
pulpous and juicy, and of a deep fcar-
let colour,
Were the Spaniards curious enough Bananas "
to cultivate the Bananas, they would
thrive well in Malaga, In the gar-r
den of the convent of Dominicans,
and in the Alcafaba, are feveral plants.
At the former were produced laft fum-
mer exceedingly fine heads of fruir,
which were prefented me by my an-r
cient friend the worthy Prior, Don
Jofeph Corral y Sotomayor; the hotter
and dryer the fummer, the better tho
fruit.
ThQ banana grows on a íleni
£welve to twenty feet high, furrounded
by

4 I O A J O U R N E Y F R O M
MALACA, ^y f0ft> g r e e r i ) fljky leaves, almoft as
long. The fruit ripens in clufters;
is wholefome, but too lufcious for
many palates,
Sweet Cañe. Tlie fweet Cañe is cultivated to ad-
vantage in this province. On the coaft
of Velez there are milis, ftiled in Spaniíh
Ingenios, which make very good fugar,
although they do not take any pains
to refino it: this fugar not only fup-
plies the kingdom of Granada, but is
tranfported to other parts of Spain.
CornmonCane.js[umbers of the common Cañe,
w T hich is ftill larger and ífronger, are
yearly íhipped ofF, for the ufe of our
manufaítories in England: it not only
keeps the fruit-trees and kitchen-roots
warm and íheltered, but is a deíirable
plant in the garden, for the elegance

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 41 x
of its íhape, the refreíhing verdure of
its leaf, and the conftant noife of its
waving head, íimilar to the fall of
waters. In many farms they have
groves of canes, called Cañaverales,
which, beíide the profit of their an­
imal crops, harbour an infinity of
birds, efpecially Zorzales [/>], which
they catch with nets, and fell in the
markets.
B o O K I V
The gardens of the town are full Pa1mT » c «,
of palm trees, which produce dates,
though feldom to perfección. Elche,
on the Coaft of Valencia, is the only
town of Spain where they thrive.
They there grow in fpacious groves; ^ c * ^ ^
and as they rife to an aftoniming Va!c,,C1 *"
height, form a moft romantic view.°
\Vhen I pafled through that country,
[/>] Thraílies or Field-fares.
I was

412
MALAGA.
A J O U R N'E Y F R O M
I was agreeably furprized to find
that we were in the midft of them; I
imagined myfelf tranfported into Ara­
bia [

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 413
are ílow growers, and attain to an B o O K IV -
amazing age. In the garden ofpr^Xge.
the palace of Generalife at Granada,
are feveral fuperb and lofty cypreífes,
which it is well known were large
trees in the reign of Audeli, the laft
Moorifli king, three hundred years
ago; they were all ftanding in 17 71,
when I was at Granada; but one of
them carne down with its own weight
the following winter, during a ftorm.
Thefe trees are to this day called Los
Cyprefes de la Reyna Sultana, from
that princefs having been falíely ac-
cufed of committing adultery under
them with the Abencerrage, as we
read in the Guerras Civiles de Gra­
nada. A fucceífion of the white rofes
there mentioned are ftill to be leen
in this garden.
The

4*4 Á JOURNEY FROM
M a l a c a ; The Efparto likewife deferves our
fc«pt"o¿ S e Ir. notice, being a íhrub peculiar to this
country, and famous in antiquity. It
much refembles the ruíh in colour and
íhape, but is widely different from it in
qUality; the latter is hollow and brittle,
and of no duration; on the cóntrary,
the Efparto is firm and tough, and in a
manner everlafting. It bears a flower
like the ruíh, of a yellow colour.
Pliny [r] obferves, that the bees made
ufe of Efparto in their hives; and
that the honey received from it a
tañe and flavour eafy to be cliñin-*
gwiüied.
He has celebrated the quality and
ufe of the Efparto. In his days it
ferved not only for cordage, baíkets,
firing, and torches, but for bedding,
' [r] Lib. ii.
fandalsr

G I B B A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 4Tj
fandals, and coats for the poor people: B o p K IV -
at preíent the meaneft Spaniard has his
mattrafs ; but luxury, which has de-
pnved the Efparto of part of its ufe,
has introduced another which occa-
lions a vaft confumption of it, the floors
of every houfe in Spain being covered
with Efparto matting; and for the fame
purpofe great quantities are yearly
fliipped off to foreign parts; it makes
excellent ropes for íhips, which have the
two ufeful properties of not íinking in
the water, or cutting againft the rocks,
like the hempen cables. Since I left
Malaga, I am informed of a manu-
factory of Efparto, the undertaker of
which has invented a procefs of fpin-
ning and working it into cloth, how
he fucceeds time will fliow ; I am
apt to think from the above cited paf-
fage of Pliny, that the ancients knew
how to manufacture and weave it, as a
covering of Efparto, in its natural ítate,
VOL. IT, D d 8 muft

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
M a l a g a - muft have been very rough and un-
comfortable.
D=í£nptícit of The Spaniíh Batata is a moft exceltlic
Batata.
lent root, and peculiar to this province.
The fineft and largeftgrowinthe fields
round VelezJY}; in figure and colour
they refemble our parfnips, though
coníiderably larger; they are fweet
and lufcious to the tafte, and may be
caten either boiled or roafted; the
Spaniards conferve them in fugar va­
rious ways; it bears a flower of the
fpecies of the Con volvulus,bell-íhapedj
green without and white within, which
produces feed: the leaves of the plant
refemble thofe of fpinage. Ray, in
[s] A city feven leagues to the Eaíl of Malaga,
very near the fea-coaíl, vvhence great part of the
green fruit íhipped oír at Malaga is brought. I
refided fome time at Velez iu the year 1755- Of
this city. which well deferves to be vifited by the
traveller, may be leen a fniall view iti Les Dekces
eTEfpagne, a book which cur modern writers of
Travels in Spain have unjuílly dcfpiíed. I ever
fotind it a valuablc companion, s:nd thedrawings
aecurate: they were ali takcu oü the fpots by an
abie drafunian.
his

G I É R A L T A R T O M A L A G A . 417
his Hiftory of Plants, has aíTerted, that R o o K I v ,
batatas were firft found in America,
and thence tranfplanted into Spain,
where they are called Batatas de Ma­
laga.
Malaga yíelds a clay, which is inimi- Ck - v h % es >
table for the compoíltion of imagesj
as it not only receives and preferves
every impreffion, but maintains itfelf
without cracking in the oven, where
they obtain an hardnefs and folidity
equal to porcelain. The Spaniards
colour and varniíh them very highly.
One of thefe image-makers is fo in-
genious, that he will take off the
likenefs of any perfon with great
truth.
The people of Malaga, a trading^'-^'}^
fea-port town, that has a conftant I!IariJí "
VOL. II. E e inter- »

A J O U R N E Í F R O M
intercourfe with foreigners from all
parts, diíFer widely and are greatly
degenerated from the añciént virtue
and íimplicity of their forefathérs. A
love of diífipation, and public amufe-
mentSjUniverfallyreigns among them;
and, as their traffic is lucrative and
their property extenfive, each feems
to vie with his neighbour in íhow and
expence, and every one endeavours to
move and maintain himfelf in a fphere
abo ve him; the mechanic appears a
tradefman; the íhop-keeper, a mer-
chant; and the merchants, nobles.
The ancient Spaniíli black drefs is ex-
ehanged for the tawdry laces of France,
whofe mafquerades they awkwardly
imitateduring the carniyal; and the Se­
guidillas and Fandangos have made way
for the country dances of England; but
in the inland towns and villages we ftill
behold

G I B ' R A L T A R T O M Á L A G A . 4íC)
behold the Spaniards pretty nearly in B o O K IV -
the ftate the Romans left them¿
A Spaniíh íhepherd is á molí re- Dlcfs „ cf * e
fpeétable figure: in the hotteft as lKrdi '
well as in the coldeft fealbns his drefs
is the lame: a leather-waiftcoat, íhort
and laced before, upon which he
wears a íheep's-íkin with its fleecej
Whofe thicknefs equally preferves his
back from the cold in winter, and
from the piercing rays of the fum~
íner's fun¿ Over his knees hangs. a
ílip of leather, to defend them from
the briars; his feet are always bare,
and íliod with hempén fandals: the
Montero, or Spaniíh cap* is both warm
and convenient.
Températe íii their diet, abíle-^Sif
mious, fober above all nations, fond
E e 2 of
i Pcafants*

420 A T O Ü R Ñ E Y F R O M
M a l a o a - of their country, obedient and faith-
ful to their king, thefe peafants make
moft excellent foldiers; and, as the
levies in Spain are for three or five
years only, each diftrict aífembles an­
nually and chufes out, among its
young men, thofe who are unmamed,
and can beft be fpared: by this wife
method, their troops are armies of
volunteers, and the whole country a
militia that have all feen regular fer-
vice. The Spaniíh huíbandmen ftill
preferve the cuftom of their fore-
fathers, by travelling on foot, not
only from village to -village, but
o ver the whole peninfula of Spain.
A piece of bread in one of their
pockets, and a horn-cup in the other,
is their only provifion; they carry
their cloaks, doubled longways, over
their left ílioulder; and in their right-
hand

G I B R A L T A R TO MALAGA. 421
hand bear a Porra, or ftrong ítaíf, Bo «rv.
with the afliftance of which they leap
over the rivulets they mect with in
their journey. As they go through
the towns, they recruit their ítock of
bread; they feldom chufe to lie in
them, to avoid the expence of an
inn; but when night overtakes them,
they íleep beneath a íhady tree,
or the íhelving of a rock, covered
with their cloaks. In the year 1760,
one of my fervants at Seville, after
having efeaped from a long and dan-
gerous illnefs, aíked my leave to per­
foren a vow he had made to viíit the
íhrine of St Jago, in Gallicia, pro-
miíing to return in five weeks, which,
to my aftoniíhment, he fulfilled, al-
thougli that town is 170 leagues
diftant from Seville. What fervices
may not be expected from troops thus
E e 3 enured

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
t M a l a o a - enured to temperance and fatigue!
The Spaniard, if on foot, always travels
as the crow flies, which the opennefs
and drynefs pf the country permits;
neithér rivers ñor the íleepeíl moun­
tains ftop his courfe, he fwims over the
one, and fcales the other, and by this
means íhortens his journey fo coníi-
derably, that he can carry an exprefs
withgreater expedition than any horfe*
man [/], The Jarge íums of money
[/] When I vifued the court of Madrid in
3758, my fervant not only kept pace with the
chaife, but fupplied us, during the whole jour­
ney, with game. In 1764, another young
man, with a fidelity and affeíiipn which char
rafterizes the Spaniíh nation, followed my horfe
from Seville to Lilbon, notwithftandiiig my in-
treaties, and foretelling him the ill ufage he
afterwards met with from the antipathy of the
Portugueze to the Spaniards, on his return, when
I fhould not be with him to proteft him. And on
my embarking frpm this prefent journey, all
Malaga

GIBRALTAR TO MALAGA. 423
tranfmitted continually to Velez from Eoc " c IV -
the factory of Malaga, for the pay-
ment of the fruit bought up there,
are always fent by the comraon car-
riers or thefe footmen, ftiled Pro-g^ST
pios, unguarded and alone, without lntLgMlJ '
afFording an inftance of their ever
having abufed the confidence repofed
in them. I, who have known the
country fo many years, owe it this
teífimony of their integrity.
The women in the country vUr^glT*
, r . the Spamíh
lages and íarms wear their gar-women.
ments long and modeft; their waiíts
lliort, like the ladies of ancient Rome,
and without the un natural fupport
Malaga was witnefs to the diftrefs of my fervant,
who íhed tears, and earneftly intreat^d to be
permkted to attend me to England,
E e 4 pf

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
of whalebone. Their long flowing
hair is plaited and confined behind
by a golden bodkin in the faíhion of
the times of the emprefs Fauftina,
as may be feen on her coins. Pub-
lickly, and in the churches, their heads
are ever covered with the vei}: this
diítinguiíhed part of their drefs,
which they borro wed from the
Moors, was, as I have already ob*
fcrvcd, worn by them of wrought
iilk; but the Spaniíh dames, lefs rich,
for above a century were contented
with veils of woollen; by degrees
they were fabricated of black taffaty,
and lately have been improved into
the fineft cambric and tranfparent
muílin. It is in this veil that are
centered all the magic and attractions
of the Spaniíh. beauties; at the lame
time

G I B R A L T A R T O MALAGA. 425
time that it adds an inconceivable B o O K l v -
luftre to their native charms, it cap-
tivates the heart with every virtuous
idea of modefty and referve. The
modern love fongs, paftoral poems,
and Seguidillas of this country are full
of the moft beautiful metaphors and
alluíions to the veil; as were thofe
of the Eaftern poets before them, one
of whom [u], fpeaking in raptures of
his miftrefs, fays, that from the border
of her veil, which ¡loe removed from her
cbeek, the Sun and Moon arofe,
Whether it proceeds from the ge^
nerous warmth and perpetual ferenity
of this climate, or the vivacity and
lively wits of the Spaniíh countrymen,
it may be truly faid,that let their work
be what it will, they do it finging; fo
[ti] Noureddin Jami. See a fpecimen of one
of his poems, in which is the above cited beau­
tiful fimüe, in the Hiítory of the Perfinn Lan-
guage, p. 1S2.
VOL. II. E e 5 that

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
that you may commonly hear a man
in a vineyard long before you fee him;
and as their talents are totally uncul-
tivated, and the couplets they are per-
petually chaunting of their own com-
pofition, the íimilies ufed by them are
ífrictly in the paftoral íbyle, and uni-
verfally taken from the beautiful ob-
jects of natnre continually before their
eyes; the fragrance of the rofe, the
odour of the orange, the perfume of
the myrtle, the murmuring of the cañe
inviting to flumber, the height of the
mountains, the ñeepnefs of the roeks,
the fplendour of the rifing fun, the
coolnefs of the evening breeze, and
the brilliancy of the ftars by night,
aífording endlefs allegories, v.'hich in
the Spaniíh language, naturally foft and
copious, are eafily put into rhyme[2£;j:
the
In my younger days, whencver I heard
any couplets that pleafed mgj 1 retaiued and
wrote

o í e ttAU'AR TO M A L A G A . 4 2
the guitar, which is exchanged in the Bo "' c l IV '•
cities for the more faíhionable harp-
íichord, ftill refounds nightly with the
complaints and amorous tales of the
village fwains; and the fame hand
which pruned the vineyards all day,
ftrikes the tender notes of love in the
evening.
Aunque foi Paftorcita
Bien fe de amores,
También tenemos zélos
Acá en los montes.
An univerfal cuftom prevails in the
villages, for the youth of both fexes
to meet every night, and pafs a few
hours liftening to an hiftorical ro-
wrote them down ; a feries of cares have long
fince joftled moft of them out of my papers, al.
though fome few remain : the Seguidillas of the
country fwains may be eaíily diílinguiíhed from
thofe compofed by the poetafters of the cities,
and which abound with forced conceits, and
allufions to the Heathen mythology, of which
the former are happily ignorant.
E e 6 manee

A J O U R N E Y F R O M
manee, or the tuneful Seguidillas [#]?
or taking their turns in the fprightly
Fandango. It is in thefe aííemblies
that they receive their only education:
a young man has no other way oí
making his court with mecéis than by
his perfonal qualifications, his moral
character, and fair behaviour. In the
great towns a youth may be diflblute,
debauched, and tainted with every
vice, and yet eaíily hide all from his
(YJ The Seguidillas are danced by four couple
p the found of the guitar; the mufician accom-
panies it with his voice, fmging lively verles
adapced to the meafure. The Fandango is a
more difhcuit dance; it is a Fas de Deux ; as the
fteps and figures in it are variable at the per-
former'spleafure, they have therein an qpportu-
nity to difplay all the graces of a good perfon,
genteel íhape, and agility in their movements.
They beat time with their Caftanettas faftened to
their hands; this little inftruraent was not un-
known to the Rornans, who borrovved it of the
Spaniards. The Spaniíh dances were much i tí
yogue in the time of Pliny, who mentions them.
i unfuípeóting

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A .
unfuípeéting miftrefs: it is not fo in
the country; there he is aííiired that
íhe is exactly informed of every
ftep he takes; he knows his only hope
depends on his conduct and carriage
in the village; he is courteous, oblig-
ing, civil, and polite to all men, that
he may induce them to give him a
good ñame: this teaches them early
in life to fubjecT: their paffions, and
gives them a poliíh and an engaging
manner, which at firft muft extremely
furprize thofe who have been ufed to
the awkwardnefs and low felfiíhnefs
of our Engliíh ruftics.
Mufick the Spaniards are paf-
fionately fond of, and cultívate from
their infancy; to throw the bar with
addrefs, to fit an horfe gracefully, to
face the wild bull, to dance not only
eafily but elegantly, and be neat and
cleanly in their perfons, are the only
E e 7 charms

430 A J O U R N E Y F R O M
MALACA, charms that can conquer the heart of
a Spaniíh íhepherdefs, who looks not
for dowry, fettlements, or pin-money,
but hopes to mitígate the pains and
toil of poverty and daily labour, by
íharing it with a companion of het
own chuíing.
condufion. i cannot better conclude my jour-
ney [y~\ than with doing juílice to the
hofpitality, generous and courteous
reception all travellers meet with in
this country, not only from the nobí-
lity, and thofe of higher rank, to
whom ftrangers may be recom-
mended, but among the clergy, pea-
fants, and inhabitants of every village
through which they pafs; this cha-
raóter,which is the very fame thatDio-
dorus Siculus has given us of the an-
[yj On the yJi of July, 177;, wc left Malaga,
and embarked aboard a merchant frigate, which
I had hired to carry us to Briílol ; where we ar-
rived after a pleafant voyage of five: weeks.
cíent

G I B R A L T A R TO M A L A G A . 431
cient inhabitants of this pcninfula [s], S o O K lv "
the univerfal experience of all my
countrymen, who have been in Spain,
joins with mine in confirming. I
have purpofely left to thofe, who may
hereafter travel over this country,
man y ufeful and curious fubjects of
natural hiílory, not further to aug-
ment thefe pages, in which my chief
view has been to prefent to my So-
ciety, a complete account of an anti­
quities of the Román and Mooriíh
nations: and even in that line, un-
publiílied coins, and infcriptions, will
be daily appearing, to excite the at-
tention, and reward the diligence of
any fu tu re antiquary. The earih un­
der the town of Cartama, I am per-
fuaded, is full of them, and we know
[cf] The Celtiberians are not only very hofpitabls
to Jlrangers, but difpufe ivitb cacb otncr tubo fl'all
be their b;Jl, and receive. tbcm gladly in their
houfes, cfleemifig. it as a mark of favcicr from
heaven, JDiod. Sic. lib. 5.
E e 8 for

43- A J O U R N E Y F R O M , & C .
_^ ALAnA " for certain, that the (tatúes of Proculus
and Lucilla lie ftill buried beneath the
ruins of the Alcafaba of Malaga : the
inquiíitive mind of man will always
eagerly feek for, and examine with
pleafure,the remaining monuments of
the greateft and wifeft commonwealth
that ever gave laws to the world; the
fight of them will be very ufeful in
fixing our ideas of their magnirkence,
tafte, and policy; and if they alfo infpire
us with a noble emulation to imítate
their virtues, piety, and love of their
country,then the ftudy of Román Coins
and Antiquities, muft, of all literary
purfuits, be the moft interefting and
laudable.