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homosassa's love affair with tarpon could be said to ... - Outdoor Travel
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52 MARcH / ApRIL 2009<br />
lefty Kreh hoists one of the first <strong>tarpon</strong><br />
ever taken on fly at homosassa. Kreh<br />
was introduced <strong>to</strong> the area in 1971 by<br />
harold leMaster (right, <strong>with</strong> rod).<br />
His<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
Homosassa<br />
of<br />
A Stroll through the YeArS in the lAnd<br />
of the Silver MerMAid<br />
Winslow Homer (1836-1910), the great American sporting<br />
artist, also came under the spell of Homosassa. In 1904,<br />
he painted at least 11 watercolors during a stay there, and in a<br />
letter <strong>to</strong> his brother Arthur he descri<strong>be</strong>d Homosassa as “the <strong>be</strong>st<br />
fishing in America as far as I can find.”<br />
Indeed, many anglers of the 20th and 21st centuries have<br />
experienced a <strong>love</strong> <strong>affair</strong> <strong>with</strong> the mermaids of Homosassa.<br />
While the his<strong>to</strong>ry of this region runs deep <strong>with</strong> redfish, trout,<br />
cobia, grouper and hundreds of other species, it was <strong>tarpon</strong> that<br />
made Homosassa a legendary fly-fishing destination. A quick<br />
glance at a map makes it clear why: Homosassa remains one of<br />
Florida’s most pristine areas, <strong>with</strong> thousands of islands, clear,<br />
spring-fed rivers and a habitat rich in marine life.<br />
By Rusty Chinnis<br />
homosassa’s <strong>love</strong> <strong>affair</strong> <strong>with</strong> <strong>tarpon</strong><br />
<strong>could</strong> <strong>be</strong> <strong>said</strong> <strong>to</strong> have started in 1882,<br />
when Anthony Wes<strong>to</strong>n Dimock<br />
hooked a silver king in the Homo-<br />
sassa River. “At first I thought<br />
the wonderful <strong>be</strong>ing was a mermaid,” Dimock<br />
recounted. “As I noted her fierce display of activity<br />
and strength, I pitied the merman who<br />
came home late <strong>with</strong>out a <strong>be</strong>tter excuse than<br />
a meeting of the lodge.”<br />
SchoolS Upon SchoolS of fiSh<br />
Homosassa is the place most commonly bathed in <strong>tarpon</strong><br />
lore, but it was actually a large area — from Crystal River <strong>to</strong><br />
Pine Island near Bayport — where anglers fished. The greatest<br />
concentrations of <strong>tarpon</strong> were located <strong>be</strong>tween Chassahowitzka’s<br />
Black Rock and a legendary flat known as Oklahoma near Pine<br />
Island. It was Black Rock, Lower Rack, Upper Rack (named for<br />
dilapidated net-drying racks) and Oklahoma that dominated<br />
discussions both on and off the water.<br />
The first anglers who pursued <strong>tarpon</strong> in this region used conventional<br />
gear, but they paved the way for fly anglers. Eustace<br />
Locklear, a native of Homosassa and a man remem<strong>be</strong>red by<br />
everyone who fly-fished there, learned how <strong>to</strong> fish for <strong>tarpon</strong><br />
FLY FISHING IN SALT WATERS<br />
Lefty Kreh; Stu Apte (inSet)<br />
53
CourteSy normAn DunCAn (pho<strong>to</strong>grApheD by gAry mArConi)<br />
from Jonnie Elmer of Crystal River. Elmer caught his <strong>tarpon</strong> by<br />
trolling the river <strong>with</strong> an inboard boat.<br />
Although anglers had fished for silver kings since the 1800s,<br />
it was Harold LeMaster and Kirk Smith of St Petersburg’s L&S<br />
Lure Company (MirrOLure) — along <strong>with</strong> their friend and doc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
Dee Mitchell — who can <strong>be</strong> credited <strong>with</strong> introducing the<br />
fly-fishing world <strong>to</strong> Homosassa. But it was quite unintentional.<br />
The trio regularly fished plugs for <strong>tarpon</strong> near Honeymoon<br />
Island. One particularly slow day, however, they <strong>to</strong>pped off<br />
their tank and decided <strong>to</strong> head north in search of fish. When<br />
they reached the area north of Pine Island, they suddenly ran<br />
in<strong>to</strong> giant schools of <strong>tarpon</strong> that would forever change the<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry of saltwater fly-fishing.<br />
But it wasn’t any of those men who caught the first <strong>tarpon</strong><br />
on fly at Homosassa — it was Lefty Kreh.<br />
Kreh had just moved <strong>to</strong> Largo from Miami after having spent<br />
several years managing the prestigious MET Tournament and<br />
was now outdoors edi<strong>to</strong>r of The St. Petersburg Times. LeMaster,<br />
Smith and Mitchell had taken Kreh in<strong>to</strong> their confidence and<br />
introduced him <strong>to</strong> their secretive find in 1971.<br />
54 MARcH / ApRIL 2009<br />
norman duncan released this huge <strong>tarpon</strong> (l=77"; g=44")<br />
during the earliest fly-fishing days at homosassa. the<br />
monster ate a homer rhode divided Wing shrimp fly.<br />
“The <strong>tarpon</strong> were everywhere,” remem<strong>be</strong>rs Lefty,<br />
“and they ate well!” By all accounts, Kreh <strong>to</strong>ok the first<br />
silver king on fly in these waters and then introduced<br />
these men <strong>to</strong> the long rod, quickly putting LeMaster<br />
on a 100-pounder. “He wanted <strong>to</strong> learn how <strong>to</strong> cast,<br />
though he always preferred plug casting,” Lefty says.<br />
Not long thereafter, LeMaster and Smith introduced<br />
Clearwater homebuilder and rod maker Gary<br />
Marconi <strong>to</strong> Homosassa. Marconi went on <strong>to</strong> fly-fish<br />
the area <strong>with</strong> a college buddy from Miami, Norman<br />
Duncan, crea<strong>to</strong>r of the Duncan Loop and one of the<br />
Sunshine State’s very first saltwater fly-fishers.<br />
Around that same time, Marconi was building fly<br />
rods for Capt. Dan Malzone when he learned that<br />
Malzone was in the process of building a new home.<br />
“Marconi turned white as a sheet when he realized<br />
where the house was!” remem<strong>be</strong>rs Malzone. “I had<br />
built a house on Pine Island overlooking one of the<br />
area’s most famous flats, one that Marconi and Duncan<br />
had <strong>be</strong>en secretly fishing for several years. He asked me<br />
when the house would <strong>be</strong> ready. When I <strong>to</strong>ld him May,<br />
he <strong>said</strong> that would <strong>be</strong> perfect. As it turned out, we slept<br />
in the house <strong>with</strong> no furniture, along <strong>with</strong> Marconi’s<br />
friends Neil Sigeartsen and Pete Centerrno.”<br />
To say the fishing was spectacular is an understatement,<br />
according <strong>to</strong> Marconi, who kept a log book in<br />
those early days. His <strong>be</strong>st day, April 29, 1975, shows<br />
that he and Duncan jumped 56 <strong>tarpon</strong> by noon.<br />
the floodgateS open<br />
Capt. Dale Perez, a Tampa native and Keys guide,<br />
heard about Homosassa from Duncan. “Capt. Steve<br />
Huff and I were having breakfast at S<strong>to</strong>ut’s in Marathon<br />
when Norman Duncan came in and showed<br />
us a picture of a huge <strong>tarpon</strong> he had caught in Homosassa,”<br />
says Perez. Duncan was one of the early anglers who made the<br />
Keys guides aware of Homosassa’s fly-fishing potential.<br />
Perennial <strong>tarpon</strong> angler Tom Evans remem<strong>be</strong>rs a day soon<br />
after this encounter when he was<br />
fishing <strong>with</strong> Huff in the Keys.<br />
“The weather was terrible,” Evans<br />
recalls, “and Huff asked me if I<br />
wanted <strong>to</strong> go check out a place<br />
on the west coast of Florida<br />
that he had heard about. We<br />
spent two days there and had<br />
terrible weather, but despite<br />
the conditions, we saw eno-<br />
ugh big <strong>tarpon</strong> <strong>to</strong> realize the<br />
area’s potential.”<br />
eustace locklear, one of homosassa’s<br />
earliest <strong>tarpon</strong> guides,<br />
paved the way for fly-fishers.<br />
Stu Apte was another angler who had heard about Homosassa<br />
well <strong>be</strong>fore it <strong>be</strong>came a destination. “Ray Donners<strong>be</strong>rger, one of<br />
my <strong>be</strong>st clients, had s<strong>to</strong>pped by Homosassa on his way <strong>to</strong> fish the<br />
Keys. While he was there, he went out <strong>with</strong> Eustace Locklear and<br />
four other anglers. When Locklear spotted a school of <strong>tarpon</strong>, he<br />
would position the boat <strong>with</strong> a paddle and cast a MirrOLure <strong>to</strong><br />
the fish. He had given everyone a num<strong>be</strong>r, and when he hooked<br />
up, he would set the hook and say, ‘Num<strong>be</strong>r one, your turn!’ ”<br />
Apte next heard about the area from Kreh. “He’s the one who<br />
really lit my fire,” Apte recalls. Apte made his first trip <strong>to</strong> Homosassa<br />
in the early ’70s, but he never guided there, preferring instead<br />
<strong>to</strong> share poling and fishing duties <strong>with</strong> his good friend Capt.<br />
Ralph Delph. One of Apte’s fondest memories at Homosassa is<br />
the day he landed two IGFA world records in a single day.<br />
It was in the mid- <strong>to</strong> late ’70s when the floodgates truly opened<br />
up. The world’s greatest fly anglers and guides soon <strong>be</strong>gan making<br />
annual May migrations <strong>to</strong> Homosassa. Billy Pate, Joe Robinson,<br />
Al Pflueger, Capt. Eddie Wightman, Carl Navarre, John Emory,<br />
Capt. Bill Curtis, Capt. Dale Perez, Capt. Steve Huff, Capt. Jim<br />
Brewer, Tom Evans, Capt. Cecil Keith Jr., baseball legend Ted<br />
Williams, Capt. Nat Ragland and Capt. Lee Baker were all regulars.<br />
The fishing was so incredible that world records never made<br />
it <strong>to</strong> the IGFA books <strong>be</strong>cause they were broken day after day.<br />
pate emergeS —<br />
and techniqUeS are honed<br />
Pate was one of the first Keys anglers on the scene and eventually<br />
<strong>be</strong>came the most visible figure at Homosassa. In the late<br />
’70s, he was guided by captains Hank Brown and Lee Baker<br />
<strong>be</strong>fore Ragland ultimately <strong>be</strong>came his guide. Ragland remem<strong>be</strong>rs<br />
the parties Pate would throw at the Riverside Inn, the<br />
What a fish! Capt. Dan Malzone captured an incredible<br />
moment, as this monster <strong>tarpon</strong> <strong>to</strong>ok <strong>to</strong> the<br />
air. such fish were commonplace at homosassa.<br />
Crystal<br />
Bay<br />
Homosassa<br />
Bay<br />
GULF OF<br />
MEXICO<br />
Chassahowitzka<br />
Bay<br />
Crystal<br />
River<br />
Homosassa<br />
Pine Island<br />
Bayport<br />
FLORIDA<br />
Chassahowitzka<br />
River<br />
FLY FISHING IN SALT WATERS<br />
CourteSy CApt. DAn mALzone<br />
55
56<br />
gathering place for Keys guides and their clients. Pate’s sevenday<br />
stints at Homosassa would include six days of fishing and<br />
one day off.<br />
Ragland fished Pate over the course of 13 years and recalls<br />
some incredible days when there were few anglers and thousands<br />
of <strong>tarpon</strong>. One of Ragland’s clearest memories is a day<br />
Pate fished <strong>with</strong> a broken foot from a water-skiing accident.<br />
They hadn’t seen much that day until they happened upon a<br />
laid-up <strong>tarpon</strong> on a rock pile, which was rare.<br />
Getting There, Doing That<br />
if you’re planning <strong>to</strong> experience Homosassa in the<br />
near future, here are a few guides and lodges <strong>to</strong> consider<br />
calling.<br />
Guides:<br />
■ ■homosassa<br />
guides Association — www.homosassa<br />
guidesassociation.com<br />
■ ■Capt.<br />
dan Malzone — 813-831-4052; captdanmalzone<br />
@tampabay.rr.com<br />
■ ■Capt.<br />
Mike locklear — 352-422-1927; captmike<br />
@homosassafishing.com<br />
■ ■Capt.<br />
Al dopirak — 727-234-7746<br />
Accommodations:<br />
■ ■the<br />
Chassahowitzka hotel — 352-382-2075;<br />
dstrickland18@tampabay.rr.com<br />
■ ■Mcrae’s<br />
of homosassa — 352-628-2602;<br />
www.macraesofhomosassa.com<br />
■ ■Best<br />
Western Weeki Wachee resort — 800-490-8268<br />
getting it done, old-school-style:<br />
Seamasters, side pressure and big<br />
fish were the rule at homosassa.<br />
MARcH / ApRIL 2009<br />
Pate made three unusually bad casts, lining the fish each time.<br />
The <strong>tarpon</strong> ate the fly on the third cast despite having <strong>be</strong>en lined.<br />
When Ragland noticed the fly line going under the boat, Pate<br />
jumped down from the platform just as the boat pitched, bringing<br />
him down on the bad foot and breaking two more bones as<br />
well as the handle off the reel.<br />
Not <strong>to</strong> <strong>be</strong> defeated, Pate had his wife Patti remove the handle<br />
from another reel and replaced it. To make matters worse, as<br />
Ragland was chasing the fish, the push pole got caught in the<br />
bot<strong>to</strong>m and was lost. After finally turning the boat around <strong>with</strong><br />
the electric mo<strong>to</strong>rs, they chased down the fish and caught it.<br />
“Another day that stands out in my memory,” Ragland says,<br />
“is the day Pate hooked six fish out of a seven-fish string.” Ragland<br />
and Pate’s favorite flies included the Dirty Nellie, Purple<br />
Pimpernel, Black Death and the “Little Brown.”<br />
Anglers fishing Homosassa used tackle and techniques developed<br />
in the Keys. The rod of choice was a Scientific Anglers<br />
Great Equalizer. The most popular reels were the #3 Fin-Nor<br />
Wedding Cake, the Seamaster anti-reverse and the Emory reel,<br />
developed by Miami’s John Emory.<br />
Tom Evans had backed Emory in 1976 <strong>to</strong> design and build<br />
his reel. “I guarantee you that the Emory reel caught more large<br />
<strong>tarpon</strong> than any reel ever built,” Evans says. “I know <strong>be</strong>cause we<br />
caught them.” It <strong>to</strong>ok them over two years <strong>to</strong> sell 220 reels. “If<br />
I had known that the worse the fishing gets, the more reels you<br />
<strong>could</strong> sell, I would have gone in the business!” he laughs.<br />
CourteSy CApt. DAn mALzone<br />
Flies were big by <strong>to</strong>day’s standards, tied “Keys Style” (based<br />
on the Homer Rhode Divided Wing shrimp fly) on Eagle Claw<br />
4/0 <strong>to</strong> 6/0 254 SS hooks. Anglers experimented <strong>with</strong> color combinations<br />
tied <strong>with</strong> three splayed grisly hackles on each side,<br />
palmered hackles and a fluorescent-orange head. The big rods<br />
required a large line. The most popular was a yellow Scientific<br />
Anglers #13 <strong>with</strong> a green sink tip. Bite tippets were generally<br />
100- <strong>to</strong> 125-pound test.<br />
Boats were evolving around this time, as well, and the first<br />
anglers poled from the cowling of their mo<strong>to</strong>rs or backwards<br />
from the bow. Eventually, however, boats <strong>with</strong> poling platforms<br />
and trolling mo<strong>to</strong>rs appeared on the scene. Sidewinders, Makos<br />
and Challengers gave way <strong>to</strong> Hewes Bonefishers, Dolphin Super<br />
Skiffs, Shipokes, Mavericks and Silver Kings.<br />
greatneSS giveS Way <strong>to</strong> mediocrity<br />
Local Homosassa guides <strong>be</strong>gan fly-fishing <strong>tarpon</strong> from modern<br />
flats boats. Fred Archibald (builder of the Shipoke) was one of the<br />
first on the scene. Archibald led Capt. Phil Chapman (a guest of<br />
Dick Pope Jr.) <strong>to</strong> his first big <strong>tarpon</strong> on fly in 1974. He also gave<br />
Capt. Mike Locklear (Eustace’s son) his first introduction.<br />
Locklear remem<strong>be</strong>rs Archibald loaning him a Shakespeare<br />
Wonder Rod and practicing fly-casting a few days <strong>be</strong>fore he got<br />
his first opportunity. “I had five <strong>tarpon</strong> eat the fly <strong>be</strong>fore I ever<br />
jumped one!” Locklear remem<strong>be</strong>rs. “He would just laugh and let<br />
me try again. I was trying <strong>to</strong> set the hook like I had a bass on!”<br />
Other local guides, including John Bazo, Earl Waters, Steve<br />
Kilpatrick, Jimmy Long and Billy Hamp<strong>to</strong>n, also <strong>be</strong>gan leading<br />
anglers <strong>to</strong> <strong>tarpon</strong> in the 1980s and ’90s.<br />
Probably no other angler has experienced more of the evolution<br />
of Homosassa <strong>tarpon</strong> fishing<br />
than Tom Evans. From 1977 <strong>to</strong><br />
1980, Evans and Capt. Steve Huff<br />
fished three weeks each May, a time<br />
that produced six world records on<br />
four different line classes. “I’ll never<br />
see fishing like that again in my life,”<br />
says Evans, who calculates that 10<br />
percent — or more than 300 — of<br />
the <strong>tarpon</strong> he’s caught exceeded 150<br />
pounds. “Homosassa gave me the<br />
<strong>be</strong>st fishing I’ve ever experienced,<br />
and recently the worst fishing I’ve<br />
ever seen.”<br />
The num<strong>be</strong>rs Evans reports reveal<br />
the weight of his words. “In the ’70s,<br />
we landed 200 <strong>tarpon</strong> a season; in<br />
the ’80s, 100 fish; during the ’90s,<br />
the num<strong>be</strong>r dropped <strong>to</strong> 50; and<br />
<strong>with</strong>in the last 10 years, num<strong>be</strong>rs<br />
have fallen <strong>to</strong> five <strong>to</strong> seven fish.”<br />
Evans doesn’t know what’s wrong<br />
<strong>with</strong> the fishery now. “There’s no<br />
pressure,” he says. He still puts in<br />
plenty of time on the flats each year<br />
<strong>with</strong> Capt. Al Dopirak. “There are<br />
no Jet Skis, few boats, no bait and<br />
very few fish.”<br />
FFSW tiPPet<br />
Billy Pate caught this 188½-pound homosassa <strong>tarpon</strong><br />
<strong>with</strong> Capt. rick doyle. it s<strong>to</strong>od as a record for 21 years.<br />
Apte’s Best Day<br />
how good was the <strong>tarpon</strong> fishing at Homosassa in<br />
the early days? Stu Apte caught two world records<br />
there on May 28, 1982, fishing <strong>with</strong> capt. Ralph Delph. He<br />
<strong>to</strong>ok a 162-pound, 12-ounce fish on 12-pound tippet in<br />
the morning, then returned<br />
later that afternoon <strong>to</strong> land<br />
a 164-pounder.<br />
After catching the first<br />
fish in complete darkness,<br />
Apte and Delph passed<br />
capt. Steve Huff and Tom<br />
Evans on their way back<br />
in<strong>to</strong> the Homosassa River.<br />
“That evening at dinner at<br />
Riverside Villas, Steve and<br />
Tom both laughed, saying<br />
they thought we had a problem<br />
or forgot something!”<br />
remem<strong>be</strong>rs Apte.<br />
The <strong>tarpon</strong> still come <strong>to</strong> the Homosassa area during May and<br />
June, but their num<strong>be</strong>rs are down exponentially from the 1970s.<br />
Theories abound as <strong>to</strong> why they don’t return in the great num<strong>be</strong>rs<br />
seen in their heyday. Some feel that pressure from the everincreasing<br />
boat traffic keeps the <strong>tarpon</strong><br />
from the shallow inshore waters. Others<br />
think that the increase in shrimp<br />
boats off the coast is responsible for a<br />
reduction in the available forage.<br />
Probably the most credible explanation<br />
is that the outflows from the<br />
local springs are down by as much as<br />
75 percent. Capt. Dale Perez remem<strong>be</strong>rs<br />
when every fish they landed in<br />
the ’70s spit up pieces of crab. That<br />
doesn’t happen now, according <strong>to</strong><br />
Evans. Perhaps the absence of the<br />
mixing action of fresh and saltwater<br />
that created a perfect habitat for<br />
crabs is the problem.<br />
One thing is certain: We’ll likely<br />
never know why the fish s<strong>to</strong>pped<br />
showing up in great num<strong>be</strong>rs. Seasoned<br />
anglers know it’s cyclical and<br />
far <strong>be</strong>yond our comprehension. Next<br />
year, the large schools <strong>could</strong> return.<br />
If saltwater fly-fishing has its Camelot,<br />
the waters around Homosassa<br />
were unquestionably it: a place where<br />
a magical time of almost mythological<br />
action is forever etched in<strong>to</strong> angling’s<br />
collective consciousness.<br />
FLY FISHING IN SALT WATERS<br />
CourteSy igfA; Stu Apte (inSet)<br />
57