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52 MARcH / ApRIL 2009<br />

lefty Kreh hoists one of the first <strong>tarpon</strong><br />

ever taken on fly at homosassa. Kreh<br />

was introduced <strong>to</strong> the area in 1971 by<br />

harold leMaster (right, <strong>with</strong> rod).<br />

His<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

Homosassa<br />

of<br />

A Stroll through the YeArS in the lAnd<br />

of the Silver MerMAid<br />

Winslow Homer (1836-1910), the great American sporting<br />

artist, also came under the spell of Homosassa. In 1904,<br />

he painted at least 11 watercolors during a stay there, and in a<br />

letter <strong>to</strong> his brother Arthur he descri<strong>be</strong>d Homosassa as “the <strong>be</strong>st<br />

fishing in America as far as I can find.”<br />

Indeed, many anglers of the 20th and 21st centuries have<br />

experienced a <strong>love</strong> <strong>affair</strong> <strong>with</strong> the mermaids of Homosassa.<br />

While the his<strong>to</strong>ry of this region runs deep <strong>with</strong> redfish, trout,<br />

cobia, grouper and hundreds of other species, it was <strong>tarpon</strong> that<br />

made Homosassa a legendary fly-fishing destination. A quick<br />

glance at a map makes it clear why: Homosassa remains one of<br />

Florida’s most pristine areas, <strong>with</strong> thousands of islands, clear,<br />

spring-fed rivers and a habitat rich in marine life.<br />

By Rusty Chinnis<br />

homosassa’s <strong>love</strong> <strong>affair</strong> <strong>with</strong> <strong>tarpon</strong><br />

<strong>could</strong> <strong>be</strong> <strong>said</strong> <strong>to</strong> have started in 1882,<br />

when Anthony Wes<strong>to</strong>n Dimock<br />

hooked a silver king in the Homo-<br />

sassa River. “At first I thought<br />

the wonderful <strong>be</strong>ing was a mermaid,” Dimock<br />

recounted. “As I noted her fierce display of activity<br />

and strength, I pitied the merman who<br />

came home late <strong>with</strong>out a <strong>be</strong>tter excuse than<br />

a meeting of the lodge.”<br />

SchoolS Upon SchoolS of fiSh<br />

Homosassa is the place most commonly bathed in <strong>tarpon</strong><br />

lore, but it was actually a large area — from Crystal River <strong>to</strong><br />

Pine Island near Bayport — where anglers fished. The greatest<br />

concentrations of <strong>tarpon</strong> were located <strong>be</strong>tween Chassahowitzka’s<br />

Black Rock and a legendary flat known as Oklahoma near Pine<br />

Island. It was Black Rock, Lower Rack, Upper Rack (named for<br />

dilapidated net-drying racks) and Oklahoma that dominated<br />

discussions both on and off the water.<br />

The first anglers who pursued <strong>tarpon</strong> in this region used conventional<br />

gear, but they paved the way for fly anglers. Eustace<br />

Locklear, a native of Homosassa and a man remem<strong>be</strong>red by<br />

everyone who fly-fished there, learned how <strong>to</strong> fish for <strong>tarpon</strong><br />

FLY FISHING IN SALT WATERS<br />

Lefty Kreh; Stu Apte (inSet)<br />

53


CourteSy normAn DunCAn (pho<strong>to</strong>grApheD by gAry mArConi)<br />

from Jonnie Elmer of Crystal River. Elmer caught his <strong>tarpon</strong> by<br />

trolling the river <strong>with</strong> an inboard boat.<br />

Although anglers had fished for silver kings since the 1800s,<br />

it was Harold LeMaster and Kirk Smith of St Petersburg’s L&S<br />

Lure Company (MirrOLure) — along <strong>with</strong> their friend and doc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Dee Mitchell — who can <strong>be</strong> credited <strong>with</strong> introducing the<br />

fly-fishing world <strong>to</strong> Homosassa. But it was quite unintentional.<br />

The trio regularly fished plugs for <strong>tarpon</strong> near Honeymoon<br />

Island. One particularly slow day, however, they <strong>to</strong>pped off<br />

their tank and decided <strong>to</strong> head north in search of fish. When<br />

they reached the area north of Pine Island, they suddenly ran<br />

in<strong>to</strong> giant schools of <strong>tarpon</strong> that would forever change the<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry of saltwater fly-fishing.<br />

But it wasn’t any of those men who caught the first <strong>tarpon</strong><br />

on fly at Homosassa — it was Lefty Kreh.<br />

Kreh had just moved <strong>to</strong> Largo from Miami after having spent<br />

several years managing the prestigious MET Tournament and<br />

was now outdoors edi<strong>to</strong>r of The St. Petersburg Times. LeMaster,<br />

Smith and Mitchell had taken Kreh in<strong>to</strong> their confidence and<br />

introduced him <strong>to</strong> their secretive find in 1971.<br />

54 MARcH / ApRIL 2009<br />

norman duncan released this huge <strong>tarpon</strong> (l=77"; g=44")<br />

during the earliest fly-fishing days at homosassa. the<br />

monster ate a homer rhode divided Wing shrimp fly.<br />

“The <strong>tarpon</strong> were everywhere,” remem<strong>be</strong>rs Lefty,<br />

“and they ate well!” By all accounts, Kreh <strong>to</strong>ok the first<br />

silver king on fly in these waters and then introduced<br />

these men <strong>to</strong> the long rod, quickly putting LeMaster<br />

on a 100-pounder. “He wanted <strong>to</strong> learn how <strong>to</strong> cast,<br />

though he always preferred plug casting,” Lefty says.<br />

Not long thereafter, LeMaster and Smith introduced<br />

Clearwater homebuilder and rod maker Gary<br />

Marconi <strong>to</strong> Homosassa. Marconi went on <strong>to</strong> fly-fish<br />

the area <strong>with</strong> a college buddy from Miami, Norman<br />

Duncan, crea<strong>to</strong>r of the Duncan Loop and one of the<br />

Sunshine State’s very first saltwater fly-fishers.<br />

Around that same time, Marconi was building fly<br />

rods for Capt. Dan Malzone when he learned that<br />

Malzone was in the process of building a new home.<br />

“Marconi turned white as a sheet when he realized<br />

where the house was!” remem<strong>be</strong>rs Malzone. “I had<br />

built a house on Pine Island overlooking one of the<br />

area’s most famous flats, one that Marconi and Duncan<br />

had <strong>be</strong>en secretly fishing for several years. He asked me<br />

when the house would <strong>be</strong> ready. When I <strong>to</strong>ld him May,<br />

he <strong>said</strong> that would <strong>be</strong> perfect. As it turned out, we slept<br />

in the house <strong>with</strong> no furniture, along <strong>with</strong> Marconi’s<br />

friends Neil Sigeartsen and Pete Centerrno.”<br />

To say the fishing was spectacular is an understatement,<br />

according <strong>to</strong> Marconi, who kept a log book in<br />

those early days. His <strong>be</strong>st day, April 29, 1975, shows<br />

that he and Duncan jumped 56 <strong>tarpon</strong> by noon.<br />

the floodgateS open<br />

Capt. Dale Perez, a Tampa native and Keys guide,<br />

heard about Homosassa from Duncan. “Capt. Steve<br />

Huff and I were having breakfast at S<strong>to</strong>ut’s in Marathon<br />

when Norman Duncan came in and showed<br />

us a picture of a huge <strong>tarpon</strong> he had caught in Homosassa,”<br />

says Perez. Duncan was one of the early anglers who made the<br />

Keys guides aware of Homosassa’s fly-fishing potential.<br />

Perennial <strong>tarpon</strong> angler Tom Evans remem<strong>be</strong>rs a day soon<br />

after this encounter when he was<br />

fishing <strong>with</strong> Huff in the Keys.<br />

“The weather was terrible,” Evans<br />

recalls, “and Huff asked me if I<br />

wanted <strong>to</strong> go check out a place<br />

on the west coast of Florida<br />

that he had heard about. We<br />

spent two days there and had<br />

terrible weather, but despite<br />

the conditions, we saw eno-<br />

ugh big <strong>tarpon</strong> <strong>to</strong> realize the<br />

area’s potential.”<br />

eustace locklear, one of homosassa’s<br />

earliest <strong>tarpon</strong> guides,<br />

paved the way for fly-fishers.<br />

Stu Apte was another angler who had heard about Homosassa<br />

well <strong>be</strong>fore it <strong>be</strong>came a destination. “Ray Donners<strong>be</strong>rger, one of<br />

my <strong>be</strong>st clients, had s<strong>to</strong>pped by Homosassa on his way <strong>to</strong> fish the<br />

Keys. While he was there, he went out <strong>with</strong> Eustace Locklear and<br />

four other anglers. When Locklear spotted a school of <strong>tarpon</strong>, he<br />

would position the boat <strong>with</strong> a paddle and cast a MirrOLure <strong>to</strong><br />

the fish. He had given everyone a num<strong>be</strong>r, and when he hooked<br />

up, he would set the hook and say, ‘Num<strong>be</strong>r one, your turn!’ ”<br />

Apte next heard about the area from Kreh. “He’s the one who<br />

really lit my fire,” Apte recalls. Apte made his first trip <strong>to</strong> Homosassa<br />

in the early ’70s, but he never guided there, preferring instead<br />

<strong>to</strong> share poling and fishing duties <strong>with</strong> his good friend Capt.<br />

Ralph Delph. One of Apte’s fondest memories at Homosassa is<br />

the day he landed two IGFA world records in a single day.<br />

It was in the mid- <strong>to</strong> late ’70s when the floodgates truly opened<br />

up. The world’s greatest fly anglers and guides soon <strong>be</strong>gan making<br />

annual May migrations <strong>to</strong> Homosassa. Billy Pate, Joe Robinson,<br />

Al Pflueger, Capt. Eddie Wightman, Carl Navarre, John Emory,<br />

Capt. Bill Curtis, Capt. Dale Perez, Capt. Steve Huff, Capt. Jim<br />

Brewer, Tom Evans, Capt. Cecil Keith Jr., baseball legend Ted<br />

Williams, Capt. Nat Ragland and Capt. Lee Baker were all regulars.<br />

The fishing was so incredible that world records never made<br />

it <strong>to</strong> the IGFA books <strong>be</strong>cause they were broken day after day.<br />

pate emergeS —<br />

and techniqUeS are honed<br />

Pate was one of the first Keys anglers on the scene and eventually<br />

<strong>be</strong>came the most visible figure at Homosassa. In the late<br />

’70s, he was guided by captains Hank Brown and Lee Baker<br />

<strong>be</strong>fore Ragland ultimately <strong>be</strong>came his guide. Ragland remem<strong>be</strong>rs<br />

the parties Pate would throw at the Riverside Inn, the<br />

What a fish! Capt. Dan Malzone captured an incredible<br />

moment, as this monster <strong>tarpon</strong> <strong>to</strong>ok <strong>to</strong> the<br />

air. such fish were commonplace at homosassa.<br />

Crystal<br />

Bay<br />

Homosassa<br />

Bay<br />

GULF OF<br />

MEXICO<br />

Chassahowitzka<br />

Bay<br />

Crystal<br />

River<br />

Homosassa<br />

Pine Island<br />

Bayport<br />

FLORIDA<br />

Chassahowitzka<br />

River<br />

FLY FISHING IN SALT WATERS<br />

CourteSy CApt. DAn mALzone<br />

55


56<br />

gathering place for Keys guides and their clients. Pate’s sevenday<br />

stints at Homosassa would include six days of fishing and<br />

one day off.<br />

Ragland fished Pate over the course of 13 years and recalls<br />

some incredible days when there were few anglers and thousands<br />

of <strong>tarpon</strong>. One of Ragland’s clearest memories is a day<br />

Pate fished <strong>with</strong> a broken foot from a water-skiing accident.<br />

They hadn’t seen much that day until they happened upon a<br />

laid-up <strong>tarpon</strong> on a rock pile, which was rare.<br />

Getting There, Doing That<br />

if you’re planning <strong>to</strong> experience Homosassa in the<br />

near future, here are a few guides and lodges <strong>to</strong> consider<br />

calling.<br />

Guides:<br />

■ ■homosassa<br />

guides Association — www.homosassa<br />

guidesassociation.com<br />

■ ■Capt.<br />

dan Malzone — 813-831-4052; captdanmalzone<br />

@tampabay.rr.com<br />

■ ■Capt.<br />

Mike locklear — 352-422-1927; captmike<br />

@homosassafishing.com<br />

■ ■Capt.<br />

Al dopirak — 727-234-7746<br />

Accommodations:<br />

■ ■the<br />

Chassahowitzka hotel — 352-382-2075;<br />

dstrickland18@tampabay.rr.com<br />

■ ■Mcrae’s<br />

of homosassa — 352-628-2602;<br />

www.macraesofhomosassa.com<br />

■ ■Best<br />

Western Weeki Wachee resort — 800-490-8268<br />

getting it done, old-school-style:<br />

Seamasters, side pressure and big<br />

fish were the rule at homosassa.<br />

MARcH / ApRIL 2009<br />

Pate made three unusually bad casts, lining the fish each time.<br />

The <strong>tarpon</strong> ate the fly on the third cast despite having <strong>be</strong>en lined.<br />

When Ragland noticed the fly line going under the boat, Pate<br />

jumped down from the platform just as the boat pitched, bringing<br />

him down on the bad foot and breaking two more bones as<br />

well as the handle off the reel.<br />

Not <strong>to</strong> <strong>be</strong> defeated, Pate had his wife Patti remove the handle<br />

from another reel and replaced it. To make matters worse, as<br />

Ragland was chasing the fish, the push pole got caught in the<br />

bot<strong>to</strong>m and was lost. After finally turning the boat around <strong>with</strong><br />

the electric mo<strong>to</strong>rs, they chased down the fish and caught it.<br />

“Another day that stands out in my memory,” Ragland says,<br />

“is the day Pate hooked six fish out of a seven-fish string.” Ragland<br />

and Pate’s favorite flies included the Dirty Nellie, Purple<br />

Pimpernel, Black Death and the “Little Brown.”<br />

Anglers fishing Homosassa used tackle and techniques developed<br />

in the Keys. The rod of choice was a Scientific Anglers<br />

Great Equalizer. The most popular reels were the #3 Fin-Nor<br />

Wedding Cake, the Seamaster anti-reverse and the Emory reel,<br />

developed by Miami’s John Emory.<br />

Tom Evans had backed Emory in 1976 <strong>to</strong> design and build<br />

his reel. “I guarantee you that the Emory reel caught more large<br />

<strong>tarpon</strong> than any reel ever built,” Evans says. “I know <strong>be</strong>cause we<br />

caught them.” It <strong>to</strong>ok them over two years <strong>to</strong> sell 220 reels. “If<br />

I had known that the worse the fishing gets, the more reels you<br />

<strong>could</strong> sell, I would have gone in the business!” he laughs.<br />

CourteSy CApt. DAn mALzone<br />

Flies were big by <strong>to</strong>day’s standards, tied “Keys Style” (based<br />

on the Homer Rhode Divided Wing shrimp fly) on Eagle Claw<br />

4/0 <strong>to</strong> 6/0 254 SS hooks. Anglers experimented <strong>with</strong> color combinations<br />

tied <strong>with</strong> three splayed grisly hackles on each side,<br />

palmered hackles and a fluorescent-orange head. The big rods<br />

required a large line. The most popular was a yellow Scientific<br />

Anglers #13 <strong>with</strong> a green sink tip. Bite tippets were generally<br />

100- <strong>to</strong> 125-pound test.<br />

Boats were evolving around this time, as well, and the first<br />

anglers poled from the cowling of their mo<strong>to</strong>rs or backwards<br />

from the bow. Eventually, however, boats <strong>with</strong> poling platforms<br />

and trolling mo<strong>to</strong>rs appeared on the scene. Sidewinders, Makos<br />

and Challengers gave way <strong>to</strong> Hewes Bonefishers, Dolphin Super<br />

Skiffs, Shipokes, Mavericks and Silver Kings.<br />

greatneSS giveS Way <strong>to</strong> mediocrity<br />

Local Homosassa guides <strong>be</strong>gan fly-fishing <strong>tarpon</strong> from modern<br />

flats boats. Fred Archibald (builder of the Shipoke) was one of the<br />

first on the scene. Archibald led Capt. Phil Chapman (a guest of<br />

Dick Pope Jr.) <strong>to</strong> his first big <strong>tarpon</strong> on fly in 1974. He also gave<br />

Capt. Mike Locklear (Eustace’s son) his first introduction.<br />

Locklear remem<strong>be</strong>rs Archibald loaning him a Shakespeare<br />

Wonder Rod and practicing fly-casting a few days <strong>be</strong>fore he got<br />

his first opportunity. “I had five <strong>tarpon</strong> eat the fly <strong>be</strong>fore I ever<br />

jumped one!” Locklear remem<strong>be</strong>rs. “He would just laugh and let<br />

me try again. I was trying <strong>to</strong> set the hook like I had a bass on!”<br />

Other local guides, including John Bazo, Earl Waters, Steve<br />

Kilpatrick, Jimmy Long and Billy Hamp<strong>to</strong>n, also <strong>be</strong>gan leading<br />

anglers <strong>to</strong> <strong>tarpon</strong> in the 1980s and ’90s.<br />

Probably no other angler has experienced more of the evolution<br />

of Homosassa <strong>tarpon</strong> fishing<br />

than Tom Evans. From 1977 <strong>to</strong><br />

1980, Evans and Capt. Steve Huff<br />

fished three weeks each May, a time<br />

that produced six world records on<br />

four different line classes. “I’ll never<br />

see fishing like that again in my life,”<br />

says Evans, who calculates that 10<br />

percent — or more than 300 — of<br />

the <strong>tarpon</strong> he’s caught exceeded 150<br />

pounds. “Homosassa gave me the<br />

<strong>be</strong>st fishing I’ve ever experienced,<br />

and recently the worst fishing I’ve<br />

ever seen.”<br />

The num<strong>be</strong>rs Evans reports reveal<br />

the weight of his words. “In the ’70s,<br />

we landed 200 <strong>tarpon</strong> a season; in<br />

the ’80s, 100 fish; during the ’90s,<br />

the num<strong>be</strong>r dropped <strong>to</strong> 50; and<br />

<strong>with</strong>in the last 10 years, num<strong>be</strong>rs<br />

have fallen <strong>to</strong> five <strong>to</strong> seven fish.”<br />

Evans doesn’t know what’s wrong<br />

<strong>with</strong> the fishery now. “There’s no<br />

pressure,” he says. He still puts in<br />

plenty of time on the flats each year<br />

<strong>with</strong> Capt. Al Dopirak. “There are<br />

no Jet Skis, few boats, no bait and<br />

very few fish.”<br />

FFSW tiPPet<br />

Billy Pate caught this 188½-pound homosassa <strong>tarpon</strong><br />

<strong>with</strong> Capt. rick doyle. it s<strong>to</strong>od as a record for 21 years.<br />

Apte’s Best Day<br />

how good was the <strong>tarpon</strong> fishing at Homosassa in<br />

the early days? Stu Apte caught two world records<br />

there on May 28, 1982, fishing <strong>with</strong> capt. Ralph Delph. He<br />

<strong>to</strong>ok a 162-pound, 12-ounce fish on 12-pound tippet in<br />

the morning, then returned<br />

later that afternoon <strong>to</strong> land<br />

a 164-pounder.<br />

After catching the first<br />

fish in complete darkness,<br />

Apte and Delph passed<br />

capt. Steve Huff and Tom<br />

Evans on their way back<br />

in<strong>to</strong> the Homosassa River.<br />

“That evening at dinner at<br />

Riverside Villas, Steve and<br />

Tom both laughed, saying<br />

they thought we had a problem<br />

or forgot something!”<br />

remem<strong>be</strong>rs Apte.<br />

The <strong>tarpon</strong> still come <strong>to</strong> the Homosassa area during May and<br />

June, but their num<strong>be</strong>rs are down exponentially from the 1970s.<br />

Theories abound as <strong>to</strong> why they don’t return in the great num<strong>be</strong>rs<br />

seen in their heyday. Some feel that pressure from the everincreasing<br />

boat traffic keeps the <strong>tarpon</strong><br />

from the shallow inshore waters. Others<br />

think that the increase in shrimp<br />

boats off the coast is responsible for a<br />

reduction in the available forage.<br />

Probably the most credible explanation<br />

is that the outflows from the<br />

local springs are down by as much as<br />

75 percent. Capt. Dale Perez remem<strong>be</strong>rs<br />

when every fish they landed in<br />

the ’70s spit up pieces of crab. That<br />

doesn’t happen now, according <strong>to</strong><br />

Evans. Perhaps the absence of the<br />

mixing action of fresh and saltwater<br />

that created a perfect habitat for<br />

crabs is the problem.<br />

One thing is certain: We’ll likely<br />

never know why the fish s<strong>to</strong>pped<br />

showing up in great num<strong>be</strong>rs. Seasoned<br />

anglers know it’s cyclical and<br />

far <strong>be</strong>yond our comprehension. Next<br />

year, the large schools <strong>could</strong> return.<br />

If saltwater fly-fishing has its Camelot,<br />

the waters around Homosassa<br />

were unquestionably it: a place where<br />

a magical time of almost mythological<br />

action is forever etched in<strong>to</strong> angling’s<br />

collective consciousness.<br />

FLY FISHING IN SALT WATERS<br />

CourteSy igfA; Stu Apte (inSet)<br />

57

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