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The Filmmaker’s Guide to Final Cut Pro Workfl ow<br />
If your database is logged by camera roll only and not lab roll, you may want to start by breaking<br />
all of your lab rolls into camera rolls. Wind through each roll and locate the splices in the negative<br />
made by the lab to combine rolls before telecine or printing. If you have work print, you may also<br />
want to break it back into camera rolls. In 16 mm, there may be several camera rolls per lab roll.<br />
More if you shot roll ends. In 35 mm, some lab rolls may be full camera rolls. Label each roll with<br />
camera roll number and start and end key codes. If you keep the lab rolls together, label each lab<br />
roll with the camera roll numbers and the same key code information.<br />
Using your pull list from Final Cut Pro, start pulling the shots used in the edit. The pull list will give<br />
you a roll-by-roll list, in order, from head to tail of the shots to pull. When pulling negative, do not<br />
cut on the frame lines: mark the frame with a small scratch between the sprocket holes and cut oneand-a-half<br />
frames before (head) or after (tail) the frame line. Add three-and-a-half frames for zero<br />
cuts. On 35 mm, leave one-half frame only.<br />
With 16 mm, it is also possible to cut on the frame line with a splicer so that only one frame is lost.<br />
You will always need the extra frame to make the glue splice, but most conformers prefer to cut one<br />
and a half so that they can cut with scissors and tape the roll back together with paper tape. When<br />
pulling work print, mark the frame with a grease pencil then cut on its frame line with the splicer.<br />
Work print is tape spliced and no frames are lost in splicing.<br />
In the example shown in Figure A8.5, the fi rst frame of the shot listed in the cut list is 7659 6497<br />
+4. The tiny dot above the K in KW80 indicates this is the key code frame. The actual frame is +4,<br />
so we count four frames past the key code frame and mark it with two scratches. The information is<br />
tiny; you will need a magnifi er to see it. Count back toward head one frame for the lost frame and<br />
cut on the frame line with a splicer, or in the center of the next frame back with scissors. Proceed to<br />
the tail of the shot. Find the correct frame, add one for the splice and cut on the frame line or oneand-a-half<br />
frames and cut in the center with scissors. The marked shots will be in the fi nished rolls,<br />
so you should see the scratches on the fi rst and last frame in each shot. Be careful to not scratch in<br />
the image area.<br />
Figure A8.5 Marking a splice from key code numbers on 16 mm fi lm<br />
Wind the shot onto a two-inch core, place in a small plastic bag, and label with the scene and take<br />
number, camera roll number, and the shot number from the construction order. Paper tape the camera<br />
roll back together, move on to the next shot, or rewind and return it to the shelf. Once you have all<br />
the shots pulled, you are ready to start building rolls.<br />
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