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2007, Piran, Slovenia

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Clothing<br />

SPACER FABRICS IN OUTDOOR CLOTHING -<br />

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT WITH THE HOHENSTEIN SKIN<br />

MODEL<br />

Boris Bauer and Volkmar T. Bartels<br />

Hohenstein Institutes, Hohenstein Castle, 74357 Boennigheim, Germany<br />

Contact person: boris.bauer@hohenstein.de<br />

INTRODUCTION<br />

Outdoor clothing is used in many different applications, including sport, leisure and<br />

work activities. Consequently, both the level of physical activity and the climatic<br />

conditions may vary over wide ranges. For this reason, outdoor clothing has to offer<br />

high wearer comfort in many different situations, which may involve insensible and<br />

sensible perspiration.<br />

If the outdoors, clothing is often equipped with a separate insulation layer. Typically,<br />

insulation materials from fleece or non-woven textiles are used, but recent<br />

investigations have now shown that wearer comfort of outdoor clothing can be<br />

considerably improved by using spacer fabrics [1]. However, the term of spacer fabric<br />

comprises an outmost heterogeneous textile group, because the spacer fabric’s integral<br />

constituents (“skin facing fabric surface”, “spacer layer”, “outer fabric surface”) can<br />

be configured by the engineers in many forms, and these can be largely independent<br />

of each other, resulting in an almost infinite variety of construction options. This<br />

paper describes a method to identify the optimal constructional parameters by means<br />

of measurements performed using the Hohenstein Skin Model [2].<br />

METHODS<br />

The Hohenstein Skin Model simulates the sweating human skin. The highly porous<br />

measuring unit is heated by means of electric heating-management and is<br />

simultaneously supplied with distilled water by means of a special irrigation system.<br />

The amount of water transferred to the measuring unit is variable, and for this reason<br />

the Hohenstein Skin Model is applicable to simulate various wearer situations, with<br />

insensible as well as with sensible perspiration.<br />

For the investigations, twelve different spacer fabrics were manufactured. Defined<br />

parameters of these spacer fabrics that affect either the textile construction (structure<br />

of the skin facing fabric surface ribbed or fully fashioned, spacer thread density high<br />

or low) or the weft construction (without wefts or wefts from polypropylene (PP),<br />

Table 1: Scheme of the derived sample groups.<br />

sample group textile construction<br />

weft construction<br />

skin facing fabric surface spacer thread density<br />

1 ribbed high density -, CO, PP, CV<br />

2 ribbed low density -, CO, PP, CV<br />

3 fully fashioned low density -, CO, PP, CV<br />

4 ribbed/high density, ribbed/low density, fully fashiond/low density<br />

-<br />

5 ribbed/high density, ribbed/low density, fully fashiond/low density<br />

CO<br />

6 ribbed/high density, ribbed/low density, fully fashiond/low density<br />

PP<br />

7 ribbed/high density, ribbed/low density, fully fashiond/low density<br />

CV<br />

cotton (CO), viscose (VS), respectively) were varied. For the analysis procedure, the<br />

twelve spacer fabrics were combined according to the following scheme into 7 sample<br />

groups (Table 1).<br />

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