KRK

Pod ~vrstim zidinama frankopanskog ka{tela hu~i
more u predve~erje. U ugodnoj svje`ini katedrale jo{
traje ve~ernja misa. Polako se spu{ta suton, pali se
uli~na rasvjeta. U toplo ljetno predve~erje doma}i i
gosti iza{li su na zrak, jedni ostaju pred ku}ama,
drugi tra`e romanti~ni ugo|aj na rivi ili trgovima.
Me|u starim zdanjima prekrivenim stoljetnom patinom
izlizanim kamenim ulicama kre}e se mno{tvo. Tu
se prolazi i susre}e, pri~a i ~eka, tu se kupuje i prodaje,
krijepi i veseli. Ve~er je prilika da se razgali du{a, ode
na izlo`bu, koncert, operu ili u dobrom dru{tvu
provede uzbudljiva ljetna no} u nekoj konobi, piceriji,
ribljem restoranu. Mnogi ne}e propustiti pu~ku fe{tu,
nastup doma}e klape ili kr~ke limene glazbe.
I dok se spu{ta no}, kupa se osvijetljeni Krk svojim
blistavim odsjajima na povr{ini mora zrcale}i svjetlosne
odraze biserne boje sve izra`ajnije i `ivlje u tami
no}i. Bezbri`an, na terasi restorana na rivi, s ~a{om
vina u ruci, omamljen mirisima doma}e primorske
kuhinje, promatram razigrani ples svjetlosne rasko{i.
Iznenada me iz tog sanjarskog ugo|aja probudi zvonjava
zvona. To se svake ve~eri u isto vrijeme oglasi
zvono Zdravomarijom s gradskog zvonika. Na njemu
zeleni an|eo s trubom signalizira ribarima odakle vjetar
pu{e. @amoru i zvukovima ve~eri pridru`uje se
zvuk brodskih motora. Iz luke flotila od desetak ribarskih
brodova s uredno naslaganim mre`ama na
{irokim krmama i uz njih privezanim svi}aricama
tiho isplovljavaju prema tami pu~ine ispra}eni crvenim
bljeskovima lanterne s Purpurele. @etva je na
moru naj~e{}e nesigurna, a “ribarska je zemlja kao
~vor u mre`i”, ali kada je sre}e more obilno daruje i
mnoge hrani. Riblje je meso ukusno, hranjivo i zdravo.
U na{em podmorju obitava obilje razli~ite ribe. Stoga
je od najdavnijih vremena za ljude koji `ive uz more
ribolov presudna djelatnost. Nedvojbeno, na obalama
Jadrana ribarstvu pripada epitet jednog od najstarijih
zanata. Ribari su stolje}ima ponosno ~uvali svoje
stare tradicije i obi~aje. Ribolov se sve do na{ih dana
obavljao na zastarjeli na~in i uz slabu opremu. Bio je
to mukotrpan i slabo rentabilan posao, a k tome i vrlo
opasan. Rijetko se kada ribar obogatio i postao
imu}an. U starija je vremena osobitu va`nost imao
tunolov. Poznate tunere na otoku bile su u uvali Voz,
u Sr{}ici i u okolici Ba{ke.
Krk no}u
Krk by night
94
The evening provides an opportunity to sooth the
soul, visit an exhibition, a concert or the opera, or in
good company to spend an exciting summer night in a
wine cellar, pizzeria or fish restaurant.
Many will not miss a folk feast, a concert by a
local klapa, a harmony-singing band, or the Krk
brass band.
As the night descends, the illuminated Krk bathes
in its shining glow on the surface of the sea, mirroring
its pearly light reflections more expressively and lively
in the darkness of the night. Lighthearted, on a terrace
of the restaurant on the waterfront, with a glass of
wine and intoxicated by the aromas of the local Littoral
cuisine, I observe the exuberant dance of the opulence
of lights. I am suddenly awakened from this
dreamy mood by the bells. Every evening at the same
time the bell announces itself from the municipal bell
tower with a Hail Mary. On the tower, the green angel
with a trumpet tells the fishermen whence the wind
blows. The noise of the ships’ engines merges with the
hubbub and the noises of the evening. A fleet of a
dozen fishing boats with neatly stacked nets on the
wide stern and with lamplight fishing vessels tied to
them, silently sail out of the port toward the darkness
of the high seas accompanied by the red flashes of the
lantern on Purpurela. The harvest on the sea is mostly
uncertain, “the fisherman’s soil being like a knot in
the net,” but when good fortune is propitious, the sea
gives abundantly and provides livelihood for many.
The fish is tasty, nutritious and healthy. A wealth of
various fish dwells in this seabed. Fishing has therefore
been a crucial activity for the people living by the
sea since time immemorial. Fishing is undoubtedly,
one of the oldest trades on the shores of the Adriatic.
For centuries, the fishermen have proudly kept their
old traditions and customs. Before this day, fishing
was done in an old-fashioned way and with poor
equipment. It was a painstaking and poorly profitable
job, and, moreover, very dangerous. Seldom was it the
case that a fisherman became wealthy. Tuna fishing
was particularly important in the earlier times. On
the island, the known tuneras, tuna spotting towers,
were located in the Voz cove, in Sr{}ica and around
Ba{ka.
Getting to know the nature with which he lived
and from which he
made his livelihood,
man discovered that
in the darkness of
the night the fish
likes the light and
that it gladly gathers
under the flame
of a torch. The fish
dazed by light
could be caught by
bare hands or the
spear. Having realized
how attracted
to the light in the
darkness without
moonlight the fish