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9 7 7 0 2 1 6 3 4 4 6 3 2<br />

IDR 40,000<br />

JULY 2010 / VOL 15 NO 07<br />

www.hellobalimagazine.com<br />

boogie nights<br />

<strong>watering</strong> <strong>holes</strong> <strong>flowchart</strong> / <strong>the</strong> <strong>taxonomy</strong> <strong>of</strong> bali’s nightlife species /<br />

high season event highlights / late night bites / bull racing in negara


echo Beach, canggU<br />

noW SeLLing<br />

Sales <strong>of</strong>fices: Jalan Laksmana, Seminyak & echo Beach<br />

0361 8881234, 8887733 www.seasentosa.com<br />

to arrange a private viewing, please call for our courtesy vehicle


Beachfront Living


2<br />

EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />

Unggul Hermanto<br />

unggul@indomultimedia.co.id<br />

EDITOR<br />

Annisa Dharma<br />

annisa@indomultimedia.co.id<br />

SR. SALES & MARKETING MANAGER<br />

I Gst. Ayu Oka Trisnawati<br />

ayu@indomultimedia.co.id<br />

SALES & MARKETING MANAGER<br />

Amanda Putri<br />

amanda@indomultimedia.co.id<br />

DESIGN CONSULTANT<br />

Yusuf Asikin<br />

CIRCULATION<br />

Ramlan Panggabean, Aidil Fitri, Putu Mustika<br />

SUPPORTING STAFF<br />

Ketut Adi Winarti, Rachma Amalia, Titin Lapelani<br />

OFFICE MANAGER<br />

Kholilah<br />

bali <strong>of</strong>fice<br />

Komp. Istana Kuta Galeria, Block Techno No.12<br />

Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta-Bali 80361, Indonesia<br />

Tel: (62-361) 769 156, 769 256<br />

Fax: (62-361) 769 356<br />

E-mail: bali@indomultimedia.co.id<br />

boogie nights<br />

ON THE COVER<br />

image getty images<br />

PRESIDENT DIRECTOR<br />

Ajie Kusumantoro<br />

HEAD OF OPERATIONS<br />

Patty Abidin<br />

HEAD OF DESIGN & PRODUCTION<br />

Agus Muslim<br />

MARKETING<br />

Trias Agustiawati, Sri Neni Supriyanti, Dewi Fitriany<br />

promotion@indomultimedia.co.id<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

Melanie Wahyu, Harry Sutanto, Agustinus Santoso,<br />

L.D.Michael, Dewi Puspa Saraswati<br />

sales@indomultimedia.co.id<br />

PRODUCTION<br />

Muhidin, Fahri, Nuridin, Sugeng Santoso<br />

TRAFFIC<br />

Yoppy Pieter<br />

CIRCULATION<br />

Pandu Guritno, Siti Turyati<br />

head <strong>of</strong>fice<br />

Globe Building 3rd floor<br />

Jl. Buncit Raya Kav. 31-33, Jakarta 12740, Indonesia<br />

Tel: (62-21) 7918 7008<br />

Fax: (62-21) 7918 7009<br />

www.multimedia.co.id<br />

Hello Bali is published each month by PT. Media Wisata<br />

Dewata under license No. 710/SK/MENPEN/SIUPP/1998.<br />

Opinions expressed in this magazine are those <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> authors. The publishers and printers accept no<br />

responsibility for <strong>the</strong> contents <strong>the</strong>re<strong>of</strong>. No part <strong>of</strong> this<br />

publication may be reproduced without prior permission<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> publishers. All trademark rights to <strong>the</strong> names and<br />

Hello Bali are reserved by PT. Media Wisata Dewata.


your letters<br />

sent to editor@hellobalimagazine.com<br />

Editors!<br />

I want to compliment you on<br />

your articles, particularly those<br />

written by one <strong>of</strong> your writers,<br />

Peter Stephenson. His articles are<br />

always amusing and insightful to<br />

read. Kudos to you Peter! It’s not<br />

<strong>of</strong>ten that I find informative, witty,<br />

occasionally critical, and intelligent<br />

writing in a lifestyle magazine in<br />

Bali. Mostly, it’s all fluff pieces and<br />

cock and bull stories written purely<br />

to satisfy advertisers and <strong>the</strong><br />

mainstream hype. It’s nice to know<br />

that <strong>the</strong>re are people on this island<br />

that still care about Bali’s culture<br />

and are able to express <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />

so well in writing.<br />

Sincerely,<br />

Isabel Laksmana<br />

Thank you Isabel. We’re sure Peter<br />

will be very pleased to know that<br />

his works are appreciated.<br />

To <strong>the</strong> editors <strong>of</strong> hellobali,<br />

I would like to express my<br />

disappointment. One <strong>of</strong> your<br />

contributors, Chris Le, is seen<br />

capturing a rattlesnake with a<br />

huge grin on his face in his pr<strong>of</strong>ile<br />

picture. As an animal activist,<br />

I think this display <strong>of</strong> cruelty<br />

toward animals is<br />

inappropriate to<br />

publish in such<br />

a widespread<br />

media. It not only<br />

encourages animal<br />

cruelty, but it also<br />

sends a message<br />

<strong>of</strong> ignorance to<br />

readers. Please<br />

be more sensible.<br />

Animals are our<br />

friends; dangling<br />

4<br />

<strong>the</strong>m at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong><br />

a long metal hook<br />

is not a way to treat<br />

your friend.<br />

Sincerely,<br />

Joao Bebeto<br />

Chris? What say you?<br />

Dear hellobali,<br />

I’ve been reading<br />

your magazine for<br />

a few years now<br />

and I’m very impressed with<br />

your recent revamp. I’d love to<br />

see more locals in <strong>the</strong> spotlight<br />

in <strong>the</strong> future, though. Too many<br />

English-language publications<br />

in Bali feature expats in <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

interviews and such. If I may be<br />

frank, it’s not interesting. These<br />

expats aren’t Bali, <strong>the</strong> Balinese<br />

and Indonesians are <strong>the</strong> real Bali,<br />

and as a foreigner, I’d like to know<br />

more about <strong>the</strong> people whose land<br />

I’ve chosen as home.<br />

Matur suksma,<br />

Jas Schmidt<br />

Great idea. We will certainly<br />

be looking to interview more<br />

newsworthy locals in our<br />

future issues.<br />

Hello,<br />

I must say I like your Food Fight<br />

article. But is <strong>the</strong>re going to be a<br />

face <strong>of</strong>f among <strong>the</strong> top three? And<br />

will <strong>the</strong>re be a guest list?<br />

Gavin<br />

Now that you are <strong>the</strong> person who<br />

comes up with <strong>the</strong> idea, you will<br />

be <strong>the</strong> first name on <strong>the</strong> guest list<br />

should we decide to do <strong>the</strong> event.<br />

editor’s letter<br />

As a mammal, I once dreamed <strong>of</strong> being nocturnal. My<br />

motor neurons had a bad reaction to sunlight, which<br />

made it almost impossible for me to do simple activities<br />

such as waking up in <strong>the</strong> morning, showering, or talking<br />

sensibly. But <strong>the</strong> Homo Sapiens’ feeding and pleasurable<br />

rituals depend a lot on metal coins and banknotes, which<br />

are mostly exchanged when <strong>the</strong> sun is out. Therefore, all<br />

I could do was try my best to not appear too obviously<br />

like a walking zombie during <strong>the</strong> day, and do everything<br />

else I needed to survive (writing papers, socialising,<br />

watching TV, etc) at night. However, after spending<br />

years <strong>of</strong> being a noctivagant creature, I learned that<br />

most predators forage most intensely at night. There<br />

is something about darkness that is conducive to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

hunting rituals. So I went to a shrink and learned how to<br />

function in daylight.<br />

These days, as a reformed being, my habitat is on an<br />

island in <strong>the</strong> sun; an environment that evidently <strong>of</strong>fers a<br />

lot <strong>of</strong> stimuli for its diverse inhabitants – may <strong>the</strong>y be <strong>the</strong><br />

sunba<strong>the</strong>rs or night wanderers. Sunlight and beautiful<br />

beaches are abundant, and starting this month, as we<br />

enter Paradise Island’s high season, more and more<br />

after-dark avenues will become available for <strong>the</strong> night<br />

crawlers. This issue is aimed to help our readers navigate<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir way around Bali’s nightlife scenes; from <strong>the</strong> goingson<br />

that are coming up to <strong>the</strong> diverse venues, which we<br />

have packaged into a <strong>flowchart</strong> that maps out <strong>the</strong> scene<br />

into different night-out purposes.<br />

On top <strong>of</strong> that, <strong>the</strong>re is also a humorous piece on<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>taxonomy</strong> <strong>of</strong> Bali’s nightlife scenesters, and from<br />

<strong>the</strong> underground, Peter Stephenson comes up with a<br />

discourse on <strong>the</strong> punk community <strong>of</strong> this island. From<br />

West Bali, <strong>the</strong>re is a story on bull racing, a celebrated<br />

competition that is also coming up this month. From East<br />

Indonesia, one <strong>of</strong> our writers describes <strong>the</strong> diving sites<br />

around <strong>the</strong> Komodo Islands, and from <strong>the</strong> more dangerous<br />

side <strong>of</strong> life; Chris Le shares his experience jumping <strong>of</strong>f a<br />

tower.<br />

From this issue on, we have created an avenue for<br />

our readers to write to us and share <strong>the</strong>ir opinions<br />

on anything, from how much you adore us to o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

comments and ideas on Bali. This is also your chance<br />

to inform us on what you want to see in <strong>the</strong> magazine.<br />

So get scribbling and with that, I’d like to remind you to<br />

always have a designated driver. Cheers!<br />

Editor in Chief<br />

OOPS! We made a little mistake on page 42 <strong>of</strong> our June 2010 issue.<br />

The correct website address for Suluban Cliff Bali is www.sulubancliffbali.com


cosmopolitan avant-garde sophisticated<br />

ON SALE NOW – ONLY 5 VILLAS REMAINING<br />

SALES OFFICE: SQUARE 9 building<br />

Jalan Raya Seminyak 504 Seminyak Bali 80361<br />

Office: +62 361 734 078 Mobile: +62 813 5302 6213 info@seacollection.biz www.seacollection.biz


Bruce W Carpenter<br />

Writer<br />

Long time Bali resident, Bruce<br />

Carpenter is author and co-author<br />

<strong>of</strong> more than 10 titles on <strong>the</strong> art and<br />

culture <strong>of</strong> Indonesia. He is also well<br />

known and if not feared for his sharp<br />

tongue and intolerance <strong>of</strong> ignorance<br />

and arrogance.<br />

Peter Stephenson<br />

Writer<br />

A writer and artist, Peter is also<br />

a semi-reformed procrastinator<br />

who typically spends more time<br />

appraising o<strong>the</strong>r people’s creative<br />

work than producing his own.<br />

Meliana Salim<br />

Writer and Photographer<br />

Meliana freelances as a photojournalist<br />

and spends most <strong>of</strong> her free time<br />

underwater, raising awareness and<br />

promoting ocean conservation<br />

in Indonesia. As a moderator<strong>of</strong><br />

forumselam.com, she’s a firm believer<br />

that divers should “take only pictures;<br />

leave only bubles; kill only time”.<br />

6<br />

James Frampton<br />

Photographer<br />

James is a UK transplant to Bali who<br />

has been living on <strong>the</strong> island for more<br />

than three years. If he’s not in <strong>the</strong><br />

water in Canggu, he can be found<br />

loitering around social events with his<br />

camera.<br />

Andi Sucirta<br />

Photographer<br />

Award-winning photographer and<br />

adventurer, Andi Sucirta keeps an<br />

eye out for socio-documentary,<br />

travel, and fine art photo<br />

opportunities. When he is not busy<br />

working <strong>the</strong> lens, he works as a<br />

medical doctor.<br />

contents<br />

08 fast forward<br />

12 rewind<br />

70 map <strong>of</strong> bali<br />

76 navigator<br />

86 scribbles<br />

16<br />

in focus<br />

all that glitters<br />

is in mode<br />

The gem that is Jemme<br />

18<br />

island life<br />

where should<br />

I go tonight?<br />

bali’s noctivagants<br />

high season<br />

highlights<br />

30<br />

on shore<br />

chariots <strong>of</strong> fire<br />

Bull-racing in Negara<br />

34<br />

to dine for<br />

slumdog culinaire<br />

Munch on local<br />

street foods<br />

grazing<br />

July’s must visit<br />

restaurants<br />

44<br />

style<br />

from dusk till dawn<br />

48<br />

room raider<br />

kanishka villas<br />

50<br />

essence<br />

gentle rough edges<br />

at antique spa<br />

maximum beauty,<br />

minimum effort<br />

at padma spa by<br />

mandara<br />

spa deals<br />

56<br />

<strong>of</strong>fshore<br />

under<br />

<strong>the</strong> floresian sun<br />

Dive into Komodo<br />

Islands’ wilderness<br />

60<br />

adventure<br />

leap <strong>of</strong> faith<br />

Taking <strong>the</strong> plunge, AJ<br />

Hackett-style<br />

62<br />

expressions<br />

a stroke <strong>of</strong> zeitgeist<br />

The effects <strong>of</strong> sociopolitics<br />

on art<br />

64<br />

counter culture<br />

punk not dead:<br />

notes from <strong>the</strong><br />

underground<br />

A head-banging look<br />

at <strong>the</strong> island’s<br />

underground scene<br />

66<br />

environment<br />

no taste for waste<br />

Recycle, recycle, recycle<br />

68<br />

helping hands<br />

calling all angels<br />

I’m An Angel charity<br />

foundation<br />

88<br />

last but not least<br />

Dewa Budjana<br />

answers our questions


fast forward><br />

text chris le<br />

exhibition by<br />

galang kangin<br />

FROM JULY 1<br />

Nine diverse artists make up <strong>the</strong><br />

Galang Kangin (Bright East) Group.<br />

This eclectic troop <strong>of</strong> creators<br />

has an astounding range <strong>of</strong> styles<br />

and <strong>the</strong> only way to collectively<br />

describe <strong>the</strong>m is “modern”. Check<br />

<strong>the</strong>m out at <strong>the</strong> Ganesha Gallery.<br />

It’s definitely worth a browse.<br />

Ganesha Gallery, Four Seasons Resort<br />

Bali at Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010,<br />

www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay<br />

new lagoon at padma<br />

JULY 18<br />

Padma Resort Bali is opening<br />

its newly renovated doors to<br />

showcase its recent 100-milliondollar<br />

renovation project. Expect<br />

sleek contemporary rooms, and a<br />

new lagoon-style pool. The pool<br />

will feature a grotto complex with<br />

waterfall that would surely make<br />

even Hugh Hefner green with envy.<br />

Jl. Padma No.1, Legian, T. 0361 752 111,<br />

www.padmahotels.com<br />

8<br />

bali arts festival<br />

UNTIL JULY 10<br />

The Bali Culture Government is holding a series <strong>of</strong> exhibitions<br />

that showcase all <strong>the</strong>re is in Balinese arts and culture.<br />

The venues are many and it would be most wise to consult<br />

<strong>the</strong> Bali Culture Government website.<br />

www.baliculturegov.com<br />

rock bar’s 1st birthday<br />

AUGUST 5<br />

After getting pounded by furious<br />

Antarctic swells for an entire<br />

year, Rock Bar will celebrate its<br />

hard won victory over <strong>the</strong> Indian<br />

Ocean. Sunset drinks will be<br />

served and musicians and fire<br />

dancers will perform. Martin East<br />

will jam throughout <strong>the</strong> night and<br />

fireworks will be displayed for<br />

your viewing pleasure.<br />

Ayana Resort and Spa Bali, Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran,<br />

T: 0361 702 222, www.ayanaresort.com


fast forward><br />

10<br />

sunset cinema at sea sentosa / JULY 2 - SEPTEMBER 30<br />

The big screen comes to <strong>the</strong> beach in Canggu for this year’s high season. Beyond Events Bali will set<br />

up a giant inflatable projector screen to showcase all sorts <strong>of</strong> movies in Echo Beach during sunset<br />

hours on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Grocer and Grind will be serving food and beverages.<br />

Check <strong>the</strong> website for an opportunity to win free food and drinks. www.sunsetcinemabali.com<br />

new massive<br />

<strong>the</strong>atre in bali<br />

AUGUST 28<br />

Bali Safari and Marine Park is launching a 1200-seat<br />

indoor mega-stage <strong>the</strong>atre, arguably <strong>the</strong> biggest on<br />

<strong>the</strong> island, equipped with<br />

advanced multi-media<br />

technology with state-<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>-art<br />

sound and lighting.<br />

The first show will be “Bali<br />

Agung – The Legend <strong>of</strong><br />

Balinese Goddesses”, a<br />

blend <strong>of</strong> Balinese traditional<br />

and contemporary dance<br />

performance, with over 150<br />

cast members including<br />

shadow-puppet masters,<br />

musicians, trained elephants,<br />

camels, eagles and tigers.<br />

i’m a black<br />

and white angel<br />

JULY 31<br />

Bali Safari & Marine Park,<br />

T: 0361 950 000, www.bali<strong>the</strong>atre.com<br />

Ku De Ta kicks <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong>ir 10th anniversary high season<br />

events with Ash Chandler (India) and DJ Jeroenski<br />

(Holland). Ku De Ta bills this high season’s festivities to<br />

feature tons <strong>of</strong> celebrities, so why buy a tabloid, when<br />

you can check it all out at <strong>the</strong> KDT.<br />

Jl. Kayu Aya no.9, Seminyak, T: 036 173 6969, www.kudeta.net<br />

sale and bazaar<br />

at bali collection<br />

JULY, SEPTEMBER AND DECEMBER<br />

Bali Collection Shopping, Dining and Entertainment<br />

– located at BTDC Nusa Dua – is <strong>the</strong> island’s one and<br />

only outdoor shopping centre that uses 30 per cent <strong>of</strong><br />

its space for gardens and 11 different water features.<br />

Among <strong>the</strong>ir 83 tenants are SOGO, a lot <strong>of</strong> artshops,<br />

supermarkets, spas, Garuda service centre and many<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r fashion retail and food outlets serving a variety<br />

<strong>of</strong> bites from Asian to Russian.<br />

Upcoming events by this establishment include<br />

a sale in July, a bazaar in September, an end-<strong>of</strong>-year<br />

sale in December and holiday events on Halloween,<br />

Christmas and New Year. Bali Collection also<br />

provides a free shuttle bus for <strong>the</strong> Nusa Dua and<br />

Tanjung Benoa areas.<br />

Bali Collection Shopping, Dining & Entertainment, Kawasan Pariwisata<br />

BTDC Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 6623


e l e g a n t l y a s i a n<br />

i n s p i r a t i o n s<br />

Join chef Will Meyrick and discover <strong>the</strong> signature dishes <strong>of</strong> Sarong as he<br />

journeys around Asia in <strong>the</strong> first edition <strong>of</strong> Sarong Inspirations recipe book, coming soon...<br />

For table reservations contact: +62 361 737 809 or info@sarongbali.com Jl Petitenget No.19X Seminyak, Bali, Indonesia www.sarongbali.com<br />

Sarong HB Halfpage 01.indd 1 6/12/10 6:01 PM<br />

Experience <strong>the</strong> true flavours <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Indonesian archipelago at<br />

Tapis. Join us as we embark on a culinary adventure with an<br />

au<strong>the</strong>ntic Rijsttafel feast. This tradition dates back to <strong>the</strong> times <strong>of</strong><br />

Dutch colonial rule and celebrates <strong>the</strong> art <strong>of</strong> social dining.<br />

Savour a tasty array <strong>of</strong> specialty dishes accompanied by steamed<br />

rice and spicy condiments. Take pleasure in a welcoming glass <strong>of</strong><br />

wine to toast this magical moment on <strong>the</strong> spiritually charged<br />

island <strong>of</strong> Bali. Rp.460.000++ / per person.<br />

Complimentary transportation is available within <strong>the</strong> Jimbaran,<br />

Nusa Dua and Kuta areas.<br />

Reservations are essential.<br />

13


in focus<br />

all that glitters<br />

is in mode<br />

on an island rich with hidden treasures in many forms, one<br />

sure fire island gem is jemme; a place to wine, dine, and<br />

shop for exquisite ornaments for <strong>the</strong> body<br />

text indra johan images james frampton and courtesy <strong>of</strong> jemme<br />

where do i go to buy fine jewellery?<br />

Jemme on Jalan Raya Petitenget [T: 0361 732392]<br />

is your best bet. Bali might be known for its<br />

artistry and expertise in making silver jewellery,<br />

but when it comes to creating bling-bling from<br />

precious and semi-precious stones, Jemme is one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best out <strong>the</strong>re. The flagship boutique in<br />

Kerobokan may have only been open for three<br />

years now, but <strong>the</strong>y have been making and selling<br />

jewellery for much longer. The people who are<br />

involved with Jemme have been working in <strong>the</strong><br />

industry for over 25 years. On top <strong>of</strong> selling <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

collections in Bali, Jemme also sell <strong>the</strong>ir pieces<br />

in Australia and all over Europe. As a matter <strong>of</strong><br />

fact, some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir pieces have been successfully<br />

auctioned at Christie’s in London.<br />

it looks really posh from <strong>the</strong> outside…<br />

Would you ra<strong>the</strong>r buy jewellery from a shop that<br />

looks like a dungeon?<br />

Jewellery is <strong>of</strong>ten associated with luxury, things<br />

that look nice, pretty and shiny. Jemme’s<br />

boutique is designed to provide buyers with <strong>the</strong><br />

complete luxury goods shopping experience.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reasons you buy an expensive ring<br />

or necklace isn’t just for <strong>the</strong> pieces <strong>the</strong>mselves,<br />

but also <strong>the</strong> shopping atmosphere that comes<br />

with <strong>the</strong> act <strong>of</strong> buying <strong>the</strong> goods. It is part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

whole service.<br />

how do I know I will be able to afford anything<br />

inside?<br />

All <strong>of</strong> Jemme’s jewellery pieces do look<br />

expensive. But this is because <strong>the</strong>y are so<br />

excellently designed and made. Apart from<br />

16<br />

selling pieces that require you to hand over a<br />

briefcase full <strong>of</strong> banknotes, <strong>the</strong>y also sell very<br />

affordable pieces, starting from Rp. 150,000<br />

up to Rp. 500 million and above. If you are too<br />

shy to ask, look for <strong>the</strong> shelves that are more<br />

crowded with jewellery on display, chances are,<br />

those hold <strong>the</strong> more affordable pieces. The value<br />

<strong>of</strong> a jewellery piece correlates with its display<br />

space. The more precious, <strong>the</strong> bigger <strong>the</strong> space it<br />

warrants.<br />

what type <strong>of</strong> gemstones do <strong>the</strong>y sell?<br />

The range is quite wide as it includes anything<br />

from different types <strong>of</strong> diamonds (champagne,<br />

black and white) to emeralds, green tourmaline,<br />

rubies, sapphire, aquamarine, opals, onyx, and<br />

many more. Silver, 18-carat gold or white gold<br />

settings complement all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se stones.<br />

where are <strong>the</strong> stones from?<br />

The stones are from all over <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />

people who are involved in Jemme travel to <strong>the</strong><br />

far<strong>the</strong>st corners <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world to hunt for <strong>the</strong> best<br />

stones. Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time, <strong>the</strong> stones <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />

inspire <strong>the</strong> final design <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> jewellery pieces.<br />

Sometimes, <strong>the</strong>y even have to wait for a long<br />

time to get <strong>the</strong>ir hands on <strong>the</strong> correct stone<br />

types and sizes before <strong>the</strong>y can start <strong>the</strong><br />

production <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pieces. This is why almost all <strong>of</strong><br />

Jemme’s gems are unique and one <strong>of</strong> a kind.<br />

where are <strong>the</strong> workshops?<br />

Jemme has a workshop near Canggu, a few<br />

workshops in Celuk, Bali’s jewellery artisant<br />

village, and some in Java too.<br />

who wears <strong>the</strong>ir jewellery?<br />

Celebrities and fashionistas, such as Sharon<br />

Osbourne, Susana Lopez, Paris Hilton, Christina<br />

Aguilera, Sugababes, and many more.<br />

when I get bored <strong>of</strong> wearing <strong>the</strong>m, can i keep<br />

<strong>the</strong>m as an investment?<br />

Definitely. Jemme’s pieces are designed to be<br />

timeless. They are not seasonal like o<strong>the</strong>r fashion<br />

pieces, which means you can hand <strong>the</strong>m down to<br />

your children and grandchildren. Also, <strong>the</strong> prices<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> one-<strong>of</strong>-a-kind gemstones go up overtime<br />

as <strong>the</strong>y become more and more rare.<br />

do <strong>the</strong>y have anything for men?<br />

Yes, absolutely. Their men’s collection is mostly


made <strong>of</strong> a silver and black lea<strong>the</strong>r combination.<br />

The size ranges from small rings to oversized<br />

necklaces. However, if you see anything<br />

interesting from <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r shelves, <strong>the</strong>re is no<br />

one who is going to stop you from getting it.<br />

i want to buy something for my girlfriend/wife<br />

and impress her, but i know nothing about<br />

jewellery…<br />

Don’t worry. The staff at Jemme are very nice<br />

people and <strong>the</strong>y are also very knowledgeable<br />

about what <strong>the</strong>y sell. If spending an hour looking<br />

at shiny things gives you a headache, all that<br />

you need to do is ask for <strong>the</strong>ir help. They will<br />

be able to find <strong>the</strong> perfect piece that will make<br />

your female counterpart happy and at <strong>the</strong> same<br />

time show how knowledgeable you are about<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir “best friends”. We recommend that you ask<br />

about <strong>the</strong> birthstones. Jemme has an extensive<br />

collection <strong>of</strong> jewellery made from each month’s<br />

birthstone.<br />

what is upstairs?<br />

More shelves and a very comfortable s<strong>of</strong>a that<br />

you can use if you want to try out <strong>the</strong> jewellery<br />

that you like in private. Next to <strong>the</strong> boutique is<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir signature restaurant (Café Jemme), which<br />

has a very good bar. So if you want to browse<br />

while sipping a glass <strong>of</strong> martini, <strong>the</strong>y will be very<br />

happy to accommodate you.<br />

what can you tell us about <strong>the</strong> restaurant?<br />

The menu is created by a guest chef from<br />

Australia who is <strong>the</strong> former executive chef <strong>of</strong><br />

Bedarra Island, a luxury resort on <strong>the</strong> Great<br />

Barrier Reef. The dishes <strong>of</strong>fered are served in finedining<br />

style, but <strong>the</strong> prices are very affordable.<br />

Almost all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> meals are priced at less than Rp.<br />

100,000. Considering that it is served in a very<br />

plush setting and <strong>the</strong> service is also very sweet<br />

and efficient, your dining experience here is<br />

easily one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best bargains you will ever get<br />

on <strong>the</strong> island. Even if jewellery doesn’t excite you,<br />

Café Jemme is a destination by itself.<br />

do <strong>the</strong>y sell wines?<br />

Absolutely. Their wine menu is quite extensive<br />

and <strong>the</strong> best thing about it is, again, <strong>the</strong><br />

reasonable prices, which also apply to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

cocktails.<br />

do <strong>the</strong>y have any plans to open ano<strong>the</strong>r shop<br />

in indonesia?<br />

Yes, <strong>the</strong>re is a plan to open a shop in Jakarta in<br />

two to three years. •<br />

Jemme Jewellery, Jl. Raya Petitenget no. 28,<br />

Kerobokan, T: 0361 732 392, jemmebali.com<br />

17


island life where should i go tonight?<br />

18 18<br />

it’s <strong>the</strong> season to boogie and you are swamped with venue choices.<br />

what to do? worry not, we have concocted a graph based on ma<strong>the</strong>matical<br />

precision that will quench your “thirst” for a good time<br />

Addresses and contact details for <strong>the</strong>se venues can be found in our navigator department which starts on page 76


island life<br />

20<br />

SPECIES<br />

NO<br />

bali<br />

noctivagant<br />

species<br />

we have teamed up with <strong>the</strong> world’s top<br />

biologists to identify eight noctivagant (night<br />

wanderers but not necessarily nocturnal)<br />

species that live on this island. to welcome<br />

and celebrate <strong>the</strong> arrival <strong>of</strong> bali’s party<br />

season, here is <strong>the</strong> report <strong>of</strong> our research<br />

findings fresh from <strong>the</strong> hellobali lab<br />

text chris le, annisa dharma and unggul hermanto illustrations monica hapsari<br />

Bintang Shirt<br />

austrolipithicus boganiensis<br />

description<br />

This species can be readily identified<br />

by <strong>the</strong> distinctive Bintang Beer attire<br />

in conjunction with any combination<br />

<strong>of</strong> braided hair, hibiscus boardshorts,<br />

henna tattoos, and fake sunglasses.<br />

distribution and habitat<br />

Often travelling in packs ranging from<br />

three to seven, <strong>the</strong>se social creatures<br />

are most concentrated in <strong>the</strong> Kuta area.<br />

Large congregations can be sighted in<br />

Bounty, Paddies, and <strong>the</strong> surrounding<br />

Poppies area.<br />

food and feeding<br />

These omnivores will feed on just about<br />

anything that <strong>the</strong> entire pack will agree<br />

on. It is not unusual to encounter entire<br />

family groups browsing display menu<br />

after display menu as <strong>the</strong>y migrate<br />

down a street.<br />

reproduction<br />

Based on population studies, mating<br />

season for this particular species is 24<br />

hours a day. They rely on large amounts<br />

<strong>of</strong> pheromones secreted though sweat<br />

glands in addition to seemingly random<br />

mating vocalisations.<br />

communication<br />

Words like “oi” and sentences that end<br />

in “hey” are <strong>the</strong> hallmark <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bintang<br />

Shirt. It is also not uncommon to hear a<br />

vocalisation that sounds like “tear out<br />

my car seat” as a sign <strong>of</strong> appreciation.<br />

auditory stimuli<br />

This species will strongly respond to any<br />

top 40 hit past or present.<br />

recognised subspecies<br />

Yobos, Ivans, and Rednecks are distinct<br />

regional subspecies that show social<br />

separation.


e s t a u r a n t


island life<br />

22<br />

SPECIES<br />

NO<br />

Hippie<br />

dredium psychadelicus<br />

description<br />

This dishevelled species can <strong>of</strong>ten be observed<br />

wearing earthy colours although it is not unusual<br />

to see <strong>the</strong>m wearing tie dye, geometric patterns<br />

and Indian deities. Dreadlocks are displayed by<br />

mature hippies in <strong>the</strong>ir prime.<br />

distribution and habitat<br />

Once widely distributed throughout <strong>the</strong> island,<br />

it has since been displaced and outcompeted<br />

by various new species in recent years. The<br />

population seems to be growing in Ubud<br />

and surrounding areas with strong isolated<br />

populations in Seminyak.<br />

food and feeding<br />

Hippies are primarily herbivores that feed<br />

on fresh foods and do poorly when inorganic<br />

nourishment is <strong>the</strong> only food source.<br />

Occasionally, some subspecies will refuse to<br />

ingest any foods that involve fire.<br />

reproduction<br />

Not much is known about Hippie<br />

reproduction. This mysterious species<br />

uses scientifically unknown principles such<br />

as biorhythmic alchemy, cosmic harmony,<br />

and energetic frequency.<br />

communication<br />

It has been <strong>the</strong>orised by some notable<br />

scientists that Hippies can project and receive<br />

communicative energy that are sometimes<br />

referred to as “vibes”.<br />

auditory stimuli<br />

Anything from psychedelic trance to reggae<br />

to primitive chanting to whale sounds elicit<br />

positive responses from most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sample<br />

population at HelloBali Lab.<br />

recognised subspecies<br />

Vegans, Neo Hippies, Goa Hippies and Indigo<br />

People are all scientifically accepted subspecies.<br />

description<br />

Sometimes mistaken for <strong>the</strong>ir close<br />

cousin, <strong>the</strong> Bintang Shirt, Surfers<br />

can be most readily distinguished<br />

by darker pigmentation. Board<br />

shorts are staple attire for <strong>the</strong>se<br />

aquatic creatures.<br />

distribution and habitat<br />

Suitable habitats for this particular<br />

species must include functioning<br />

breaks. They are nocturnally found<br />

just about everywhere and have one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> widest ranges on <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

food and feeding<br />

This species can be found eating<br />

noodles by <strong>the</strong> beach. Little is<br />

known about specific feeding habits<br />

but it has been noted that Bintang<br />

Beer may form up to 87 per cent <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir diet.<br />

reproduction<br />

While mating rituals for this species<br />

are unsophisticated, <strong>the</strong>y are<br />

surprisingly adept at seeking out<br />

suitable partners.<br />

communication<br />

Data deficient.<br />

auditory stimuli<br />

Stereotypically this species will<br />

listen to Jack Johnson, Ben Harper,<br />

and any fast rock.<br />

recognised subspecies<br />

Soul Surfer and Contest Jock are<br />

only a few <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> varied subspecies<br />

<strong>of</strong> this type.<br />

Surfer<br />

dudekus retardidae<br />

SPECIES<br />

NO


description<br />

This species are inherent fashion victims.<br />

They are never seen out in public without<br />

wearing branded clo<strong>the</strong>s that adorn <strong>the</strong><br />

pages <strong>of</strong> Vogue and GQ. They also like<br />

to add on various pieces <strong>of</strong> expensive<br />

jewelleries to <strong>the</strong>ir physique. It is not rare<br />

to see <strong>the</strong>m replace one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir teeth<br />

with a big piece <strong>of</strong> diamond.<br />

distribution and habitat<br />

The Yuppies are <strong>of</strong>ten also socialites.<br />

They have a natural thirst to be seen at<br />

<strong>the</strong> poshest and trendiest places. Metis,<br />

Ku De Ta, Sarong and The Living Room<br />

are some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> places <strong>the</strong>y like to visit in<br />

frequent manner.<br />

food and feeding<br />

The Opes Servus likes to feed on exotic<br />

cuisines, anything fusion and raw. They<br />

also like to eat foods that can cause <strong>the</strong>m<br />

instant death such as fugu and poisonous<br />

octopus. The sample population at<br />

HelloBali Lab refuse to drink any liquid<br />

from bottles priced below Rp. 1,000,000.<br />

reproduction<br />

This species woo <strong>the</strong>ir mating partners<br />

by showing <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong>ir Amex cards. In <strong>the</strong><br />

event that <strong>the</strong>y are unable to do so, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

usually change <strong>the</strong>ir tactics by sending<br />

expensive gifts with cards with messages<br />

written in gold ink.<br />

communication<br />

Inserting at least one foreign word in an<br />

English sentence is how members <strong>of</strong> this<br />

species show <strong>the</strong>ir alleged pr<strong>of</strong>undity.<br />

auditory stimuli<br />

This species’ diamond-studded iPods<br />

are full <strong>of</strong> songs from Buddha Bar, Jose<br />

Padilla, Bebel Gilberto and anything<br />

lounge music.<br />

recognised subspecies<br />

Socialites, Gold Diggers and land and<br />

property owners.<br />

Yuppie<br />

opes servus<br />

SPECIES<br />

NO<br />

SPECIES<br />

NO<br />

Rainbow Warrior<br />

homo erectus vainensis<br />

description<br />

When ga<strong>the</strong>red in groups in<br />

surroundings equipped with <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

preferred auditory stimuli, this species<br />

can be recognised by <strong>the</strong> minimal<br />

piece <strong>of</strong> clothing covering <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

bodies. This is due to <strong>the</strong>ir obsession<br />

with working out at <strong>the</strong> gym, which<br />

inevitably gives most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m He<br />

Man-like postures. In environments<br />

where clothing is not optional, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

can be recognised by <strong>the</strong> loud colours<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir body-tight T-shirts. Some male<br />

subspecies have been known to prefer<br />

skirts to trousers, and some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

female subspecies have been seen to<br />

wear chequered shirts.<br />

distribution and habitat<br />

Being a minority, this species spend<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir lives in designated venues such<br />

as Bali Joe and Mixwell. But just before<br />

dawn, a lot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m can be spotted<br />

at Double Six Club. Those who aren’t<br />

nocturnal <strong>of</strong>ten frequent <strong>the</strong> Calego<br />

Beach in Seminyak and Ku De Ta at<br />

sunset.<br />

food and feeding<br />

The Homo Erectus Vainensis are very<br />

particular about <strong>the</strong>ir foods. When<br />

ordering food, <strong>the</strong>y <strong>of</strong>ten request<br />

most parts <strong>of</strong> a dish to be excluded.<br />

Also, most are allergic to food produce<br />

such as salt and garlic.<br />

reproduction<br />

Complementing on each o<strong>the</strong>r’s<br />

muscle definition is how this<br />

species begin <strong>the</strong>ir mating rituals. In<br />

certain situations, <strong>the</strong>y might give<br />

compliments on o<strong>the</strong>r physical traits<br />

such as hair, nails and pros<strong>the</strong>tic nose.<br />

communication<br />

Most rainbow warriors are cunning<br />

linguists with a large vocabulary.<br />

However, <strong>the</strong>y tend to overuse<br />

superfluous adjectives such as<br />

“fabulous”, “divine” and “sublime”.<br />

auditory stimuli<br />

The Homo Erectus Vainensis always<br />

responds positively to tunes from<br />

Madonna, Kylie Minogue, Cher,<br />

Scissor Sisters, Lady Gaga, Mika, Lily<br />

Allen and recently Ricky Martin, only<br />

after he finally admitted to being a<br />

member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> species.<br />

recognised subspecies<br />

Friends <strong>of</strong> Xena <strong>the</strong> Warrior Princess<br />

and siblings <strong>of</strong> Rupaul.<br />

23


island life<br />

24<br />

SPECIES<br />

NO<br />

All Nighter<br />

stimulus emdeemmaius<br />

description<br />

This diverse species exhibits varying<br />

phenotypes but shares some common<br />

characteristics and can be identified by<br />

designer sunglasses worn indoors at night<br />

or clammy sweat soaked hands. Fur<strong>the</strong>r<br />

identification can be achieved by observing<br />

pursed lips, gritted teeth, half-opened eyes,<br />

swaying head, and excessive hugging.<br />

distribution and habitat<br />

These strictly nocturnal and crepuscular<br />

monsters fear sunlight burning through<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir heavily dilated pupils. They can be<br />

found in establishments such as Double Six<br />

Club, Gallery, Deejays and any o<strong>the</strong>r after<br />

hour club.<br />

food and feeding<br />

This species possesses overburdened<br />

sweat glands that make dehydration a<br />

constant threat. Water is <strong>the</strong> main type <strong>of</strong><br />

nourishment and all o<strong>the</strong>r food is rejected.<br />

reproduction<br />

Observations <strong>of</strong> this species rubbing up on<br />

each o<strong>the</strong>r in <strong>the</strong> dark are quite common.<br />

The appearance <strong>of</strong> individuals leaving<br />

during daylight hours looking “wrecked”<br />

seems to contradict any <strong>the</strong>oretical<br />

reproduction.<br />

communication<br />

This species seems to communicate<br />

through physical contact, wide grins, and<br />

fast and repetitious nods.<br />

auditory stimuli<br />

Anything with a deep beat that occasionally<br />

climaxes.<br />

recognised subspecies<br />

Data deficient.


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and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong>re is our special Brunch featuring a la<br />

carte breakfast favourites <strong>of</strong> Fried Eggs and Seared<br />

duck Foie Gras, Lobster Egg Omelet, Egg nouvelle<br />

and Fresh Oysters, along with sumptuous lunch options<br />

including carvery and Valrhona chocolate Fountain,<br />

complemented with s<strong>of</strong>t drinks and juices and<br />

a live Jazz Band. Life is good.<br />

An additional beverage package <strong>of</strong> free flow <strong>of</strong> wines<br />

and beer is also available from 12.00pm to 2.00pm.<br />

Complimentary aperitif selection including<br />

our signature Bloody Mary at King Cole Bar<br />

from 11.00am to 12.00pm.<br />

Brunch is from 12.00pm to 2.00pm.<br />

Reservation is required.<br />

Pool and beach facilities are reserved for hotel guests only.<br />

KaWaSan ParIWISaTa nuSa dua LOT S6<br />

nuSa dua . BaLI 80363 . IndOnESIa<br />

STrEGIS.cOM/BaLI<br />

(62)(361) 8478 111<br />

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rOME San FrancIScO ShanGhaI SInGaPOrE<br />

WaShInGTOn, d.c.<br />

S T r E G I S . c O M<br />

© 2010 Starwood hotels & resorts Worldwide, Inc.


island life<br />

26<br />

description<br />

Typically on <strong>the</strong> fringe <strong>of</strong> mainstream<br />

lifestyle and indie pop culture. Physical traits<br />

include incomprehensibly tight leg wear,<br />

such as, but not limited to, skinny jeans for<br />

<strong>the</strong> male species and torn stockings for <strong>the</strong><br />

female. Aes<strong>the</strong>tics are a focal point.<br />

Quirky accessories, clothing and ornaments<br />

are essential. Physical indicators include<br />

non-prescription wide-rim glasses, bowler<br />

hats or fedoras, and limited edition sneakers<br />

or ankle boots. Some subspecies can be<br />

seen toting Lomography cameras, vintage<br />

paraphernalia, and Apple products.<br />

The common hipster is also known to<br />

have an extensive knowledge <strong>of</strong> art, music<br />

and fashion.<br />

distribution and habitat<br />

This species can be spotted trolling around<br />

<strong>the</strong> Seminyak area, mainly grouping at<br />

Home Café, Divine Wonderland, and Kaizan.<br />

food and feeding<br />

Type <strong>of</strong> food is not exclusive, as long as<br />

setting and brand image <strong>of</strong> eatery is <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> latest trend.<br />

reproduction<br />

Sharing <strong>the</strong> latest music track that is not<br />

publicly distributed. Dropping names <strong>of</strong><br />

hip, obscure, underground fashion labels,<br />

shops, music albums, artists, and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

aspects <strong>of</strong> pop culture.<br />

communication<br />

Unknown – jargon is updated daily<br />

depending on <strong>the</strong> latest trend, social<br />

movement, or event.<br />

auditory stimuli<br />

MGMT, Steve Aoki, The Misshapes,<br />

obscure little-known musicians and DJs.<br />

Basically, <strong>the</strong> standard dialogue regarding<br />

music is as follows: “I like Band So-and-so.”<br />

“Who?” Exactly.<br />

recognised subspecies<br />

The dorky-but-cool scene kid, <strong>the</strong> pose-<br />

savvy camera hog, <strong>the</strong> bohemian-<br />

druggie wildcat, <strong>the</strong> all-dressed-in-black-<br />

asymmetrics fashionista.<br />

Hipster<br />

trendicus avantgardensis<br />

SPECIES<br />

NO<br />

SPECIES<br />

NO<br />

Punk<br />

moshpitidae delinquentus<br />

description<br />

This species typically corresponds to<br />

a social movement and idealism <strong>of</strong><br />

rebellion, such as anti-capitalism, antimainstream,<br />

anti-authority, anti-dogma,<br />

anti-religion; but is also anti-rebellion,<br />

anti-social and anti-idealism at <strong>the</strong> same<br />

time. Known physical traits are fully<br />

tattooed epidermis (more au<strong>the</strong>ntic if<br />

around <strong>the</strong> neck, ear and elbow area),<br />

pierced body parts, Dr Marten boots,<br />

dishevelled hair, band T-shirts, DIY<br />

apparel, lea<strong>the</strong>r and plaid. The upper-<br />

class punk can be seen in Fred Perry<br />

shirts, although this trait is not a<br />

conclusive characteristic. Depending on<br />

subspecies, some are known to transport<br />

<strong>the</strong>mselves on skateboards, surfboards,<br />

low-rider bicycles, and on <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>top<br />

<strong>of</strong> moving vehicles.<br />

distribution and habitat<br />

This species can be spotted in Kuta,<br />

mainly in <strong>the</strong> Poppies Lane areas, and<br />

in Denpasar. Groups <strong>of</strong> this species are<br />

commonly found in Twice Bar, tattoo<br />

parlours, <strong>the</strong> beach, skate-and-surf<br />

apparel shops, skateparks, and on <strong>the</strong><br />

streets.<br />

food and feeding<br />

Type <strong>of</strong> food is non-exclusive, as long as<br />

it is cheap, or better yet, free <strong>of</strong> charge.<br />

They usually drink beer, cheap liquor, and<br />

anggur orang tua (if you know what this<br />

is, shame on you).<br />

reproduction<br />

An accidental jab-on-<strong>the</strong>-chin in <strong>the</strong><br />

moshpit <strong>of</strong> a punk gig may lead to<br />

a romantic liaison. O<strong>the</strong>r forms <strong>of</strong><br />

reproductive instincts are tattooing <strong>the</strong><br />

name or face <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir significant o<strong>the</strong>r on<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir body.<br />

communication<br />

No specific type <strong>of</strong> communication. Some<br />

species <strong>of</strong> punk communicate through<br />

inaudible and indistinctive slurs, or<br />

abusive physical contact.<br />

auditory stimuli<br />

Social Distortion, The Clash, Ramones,<br />

Rancid, The Smiths, Superman is Dead.<br />

recognised subspecies<br />

The working class skinhead, <strong>the</strong> skater<br />

mosh warrior, <strong>the</strong> straight edge tough<br />

guy, <strong>the</strong> bowler-hat-sporting rude boy, <strong>the</strong><br />

red-mohawk punk, <strong>the</strong> rockabilly Johnny<br />

Cash fan, <strong>the</strong> emo-core kid.


high season highlights<br />

a sneak peek at<br />

what’s up and<br />

what’s on this<br />

season. get your<br />

party gear ready,<br />

lace up those<br />

dancing shoes,<br />

and here’s a toast<br />

to <strong>the</strong> island’s<br />

boogie nights!<br />

SATURDAY JULY 3<br />

Spit and Swallow @ Home Bar<br />

Featuring DJ Alvin K, DJ Indra7,<br />

DJ Dita von Paris<br />

FRIDAY JULY 23<br />

Heineken Party @ Hu’u Bar<br />

Featuring DJ GoldDigger and DJ Adit<br />

(RNRM)<br />

www.huubali.com<br />

Sunset Sounds @ The Stones<br />

Featuring DJ Malik Lomax<br />

SUNDAY JULY 25<br />

Sunset Sounds @ The Stones<br />

Featuring DJ Stevie G<br />

THURSDAY JULY 29<br />

Gold Dust Party @ The Living Room<br />

www.<strong>the</strong>livingroom-bali.com<br />

FRIDAY JULY 30<br />

The Junction Opening Party @ Hu’u Bar<br />

A pre-party <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island’s biggest<br />

music festivals<br />

www.huubali.com<br />

FRIDAY JULY 30 – SUNDAY AUGUST 1<br />

The 6th Junction<br />

House Music Festival Bali<br />

www.<strong>the</strong>junctionbali.com<br />

THURSDAY AUGUST 5<br />

1st Anniversary Celebration @ Rock Bar<br />

Featuring DJ Martin East<br />

www.ayanaresort.com<br />

SATURDAY AUGUST 7<br />

Spinach All-Stars @ Hu’u Bar<br />

Featuring Spinach Productions’ best DJs<br />

www.huubali.com<br />

SUNDAY AUGUST 8<br />

Bikini Party @ Ku De Ta<br />

Featuring Frankie Knuckles<br />

and Hea<strong>the</strong>r Smalls<br />

www.kudeta.net<br />

FRIDAY AUGUST 13<br />

La Révolution @ Living Room<br />

Three colours define <strong>the</strong> night: bleu, blanc,<br />

rouge. March to <strong>the</strong> hymns <strong>of</strong> freedom and<br />

heroism at The Living Room.<br />

www.<strong>the</strong>livingroom-bali.com<br />

SATURDAY AUGUST 14<br />

KDT in Wonderland:<br />

<strong>the</strong> 10th Anniversary Party @ Ku De Ta<br />

Featuring Brand New Heavies<br />

www.kudeta.net<br />

MONDAY AUGUST 16<br />

Independence Day Red Party @ Hu’u Bar<br />

Celebrate <strong>the</strong> nation’s freedom with <strong>the</strong><br />

Hu’u society<br />

www.huubali.com<br />

SATURDAY AUGUST 21<br />

The White Party @ Ku De Ta<br />

Featuring DJ Billy <strong>the</strong> Kid<br />

www.kudeta.net<br />

SATURDAY AUGUST 28<br />

Tijuana Cartel @ Ku De Ta<br />

www.kudeta.net<br />

27


island life<br />

28<br />

24-hour party playlist<br />

a party does not start in <strong>the</strong> club, nor does it end <strong>the</strong> moment you<br />

step out onto <strong>the</strong> street from whatever event you have just boogied<br />

down to; a party starts at home and finishes at home. <strong>the</strong> party vibe<br />

is a mindset, carefully crafted and gracefully extinguished. let us<br />

help you pick out <strong>the</strong> right tunes to pump up <strong>the</strong> pre-party vibe and<br />

douse down <strong>the</strong> post-partum party blues<br />

fire it up<br />

“Long Tall Sally” – The Beatles<br />

“Don’t Stop ‘Til You Get Enough” – Michael Jackson<br />

“Electric Feel” – MGMT<br />

“I’m Not Gonna Teach Your Boyfriend How to Dance With You” – Black Kids<br />

“Love Generation” – Bob Sinclair<br />

“American Boy” – Estelle feat. Kanye West<br />

“Phoenix Rise” – Maxwell<br />

“Crap Hands” – Beck<br />

“Heads Will Roll (A-Trak Remix)” – Yeah Yeah Yeahs<br />

“F**k <strong>the</strong> Pain Away” – Peaches<br />

“Great DJ” – The Ting Tings<br />

“I Kissed a Girl” – Katy Perry<br />

“54-46 Was My Number” – Toots & <strong>the</strong> Maytals<br />

“Ano<strong>the</strong>r Chance” – Roger Sanchez<br />

“Sweet Disposition” – The Temper Trap<br />

“She Wolf (Calvin Harris Remix)” – Shakira<br />

“I’m Every Woman” – Chaka Khan<br />

“Hey Ya” – Outkast<br />

“You Are <strong>the</strong> Universe” – Brand New Heavies<br />

“Close to Me (Vengeance Mash Up)” – The Cure feat Lil Wayne<br />

cool it down<br />

“I’m Still in Love with You” – Al Green<br />

“Sun is Shining” – Bebel Gilberto<br />

“The Hustle” – Van McCoy<br />

“Drinking in LA” – Bran Van 3000<br />

“You’ve Got a Friend” – Carole King<br />

“Please Forgive Me” – David Gray<br />

“California Dreaming” – The Mamas and The Papas<br />

“Lebanese Blonde” – Thievery Corporation<br />

“Just a Little Lovin’” – Dusty Springfield<br />

“Something About Us” – Daft Punk<br />

“Govinda” – Kula Shaker<br />

“Sunday Morning (Twilight Remix)” – K-OS<br />

“Dance Tonight” – Lucy Pearl<br />

“A Thing for Me (Breakbot Remix)” – Metronomy<br />

“Seven Days in Sunny June” – Jamiroquai<br />

“Today” – Zero7 feat Jose Gonzalez<br />

“Africa” – Toto<br />

“Santa Baby” – Madonna<br />

“All Night Long” – Lionel Richie<br />

“Je T’aime…Moi Non Plus” – Serge Gainsbourg & Jane Birkin


onshore<br />

chariots<br />

in pamplona, <strong>the</strong>y get <strong>the</strong>ir adrenaline fix by running<br />

with <strong>the</strong> bulls. in bali’s jembrana regency, a similar spectacle<br />

exists, but not only does it awaken <strong>the</strong> adrenaline, but also<br />

discipline, courage and competition<br />

30<br />

text annisa dharma images andi sucirta


<strong>of</strong> fire<br />

this page<br />

a bull steps <strong>of</strong>f and up<br />

to face his destiny<br />

31


onshore<br />

“Some<br />

bulls bleed<br />

throughout<br />

<strong>the</strong> race,<br />

but it is this<br />

quality that<br />

makes this<br />

competition<br />

so heart<br />

wrenching<br />

– it is a race<br />

for honour,<br />

fuelled by<br />

blood, sweat<br />

and tears.”-<br />

32<br />

The Formula One Grand Prix in<br />

Singapore is coming up in September,<br />

and that is definitely a big event<br />

to look forward to. But if you seek<br />

something more traditional, earthy,<br />

borderline dangerous (and perhaps<br />

ridiculous in an oh-my-God-whatare-<strong>the</strong>y-thinking<br />

attitude), and if aeroplane rides,<br />

jet-engine exhaust fumes and earplugs aren’t your<br />

cup <strong>of</strong> tea, <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> Jembrana regency in Negara,<br />

West Bali is <strong>the</strong> way to go. Every year, once a week<br />

in July and October, Jembrana holds <strong>the</strong> famous bullraces<br />

called makepung – which translates as “chasing<br />

around”.<br />

Bull-racing started in <strong>the</strong> 1970s as a pastime for<br />

farmers during <strong>the</strong>ir spare time between periods <strong>of</strong><br />

harvest. Since <strong>the</strong>n, <strong>the</strong> tradition has been passed<br />

down through generations and has now become<br />

quite <strong>the</strong> attraction for tourists and locals alike.<br />

The rules <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> game have also evolved and have<br />

been refined, making it an established sport. When<br />

<strong>the</strong> activity first sprouted, only one bull was used<br />

to pull a carriage through <strong>the</strong> racetrack. Nowadays,<br />

a pair <strong>of</strong> bulls shares <strong>the</strong> load and <strong>the</strong> carriage has<br />

been downsized to look more like a Spartacusinspired<br />

chariot, or cikar, with standing space for<br />

only one person in <strong>the</strong> “cockpit”. This change <strong>of</strong><br />

format makes sense, as it adds more speed to <strong>the</strong><br />

“vehicle”, enabling it to manoeuvre with agility.<br />

this page<br />

left to right: a rider<br />

and his bulls in action;<br />

showing <strong>the</strong> love<br />

Today’s race bulls are also treated with reverence<br />

by <strong>the</strong>ir owners, gaining status as sleek, sturdy<br />

speedracers as opposed to being mere creatures <strong>of</strong><br />

labour. That is not to say that <strong>the</strong>se bulls are spoiled<br />

heifers – during <strong>the</strong> race, <strong>the</strong> rider will twist <strong>the</strong> bull’s<br />

tail, use a whip, or even sticks with protruding nails<br />

attached to quicken <strong>the</strong>ir pace. At times, <strong>the</strong> backsides<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bulls are smeared with chilli powder, giving <strong>the</strong><br />

“burn sensation” to add that little kick in <strong>the</strong> butt for<br />

an added oomph in speed – <strong>the</strong> antiquated equivalent<br />

to nitrous oxide turbo engines, perhaps.<br />

Some bulls bleed throughout <strong>the</strong> race, but it is<br />

this quality that makes this competition so heart<br />

wrenching – it is a race for honour, fuelled by<br />

blood, sweat and tears. In that same spirit, <strong>the</strong>se<br />

races are also exciting due to <strong>the</strong> fact that bulls<br />

are not engines that have been programmed and<br />

constructed to function in a precise manner. They<br />

are living, breathing creatures that, although trained,<br />

will still make <strong>the</strong> occasional mishap. It is not rare<br />

to see a chariot spiralling out <strong>of</strong> control due to <strong>the</strong><br />

bulls running wild, straying from <strong>the</strong> one-kilometrelong<br />

dirt racetrack into muddy grounds or a nearby


waterhole or field, toppling <strong>the</strong> chariot and sometimes<br />

heavily injuring <strong>the</strong> rider. Unlike racing car drivers,<br />

makepung riders do not wear protective gear to<br />

anticipate such incidents – ano<strong>the</strong>r quality that makes<br />

<strong>the</strong> event that much more exhilarating to witness.<br />

The night prior to <strong>the</strong> big race, <strong>the</strong> bulls rest near<br />

<strong>the</strong> racetrack. The owners, who will forbid anyone<br />

to touch <strong>the</strong>m or treat <strong>the</strong>m with anything but <strong>the</strong><br />

utmost respect, diligently guard <strong>the</strong>se sleeping<br />

creatures. The owners also have <strong>the</strong>se animals blessed<br />

by a priest beforehand who places a supernatural<br />

“guarding shield” around <strong>the</strong> bull for protection.<br />

Just as a Grand Prix<br />

car is adorned with<br />

“decorations” (although<br />

in <strong>the</strong> form <strong>of</strong> sponsor<br />

logos), <strong>the</strong>se bulls are<br />

also craftily fashioned to<br />

not only perform <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

best, but also to look <strong>the</strong><br />

part with immaculate<br />

headdress, crowns,<br />

tassels, flags, and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

bells and whistles in delightful colours. In fact,<br />

appearance counts in <strong>the</strong> final score tally.<br />

The rules <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> race are unique, as it is not<br />

merely a quest for first place, but each contestant<br />

is obligated to maintain at least a ten-metre gap<br />

between himself and <strong>the</strong> runner-up chariot. If<br />

this distance is trespassed (meaning <strong>the</strong> gap is<br />

measured to be under ten metres), <strong>the</strong> frontrunner is<br />

disqualified as a winning candidate and <strong>the</strong> successive<br />

contestant is granted <strong>the</strong> title. Teams are divided into<br />

two blocks according to territory – it is an Eastside-<br />

Westside rivalry – with <strong>the</strong> Sungai Ijo Gading <strong>of</strong><br />

Jembrana playing <strong>the</strong><br />

role <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> “wall <strong>of</strong><br />

separation”, determining<br />

which side, and team, a<br />

rider belongs to.<br />

Such a parade <strong>of</strong><br />

courage, strength and<br />

unpredictable outcome<br />

is undoubtedly an<br />

interesting sight to<br />

behold. •<br />

where is it?<br />

In Jembrana, Negara, located<br />

slightly inland from <strong>the</strong> island’s<br />

west coast. Take <strong>the</strong> road heading<br />

to Perancak and once in <strong>the</strong><br />

vicinity, signs <strong>of</strong> bull races are easy<br />

to spot. If in any case you get lost,<br />

asking for directions to a local is<br />

definitely a sure fire way.<br />

when is it?<br />

The makepung races usually take<br />

place on Sunday morning, at<br />

around 7 or 8am, all through July<br />

and October.<br />

tips to travel<br />

Negara is not so far as to consider<br />

it an actual out <strong>of</strong> town “vacation”,<br />

but it is none<strong>the</strong>less a very<br />

localised area, meaning that <strong>the</strong><br />

spoils <strong>of</strong> modern day tourism have<br />

not penetrated <strong>the</strong> region. With<br />

this in mind, make sure you pack<br />

everything you need before <strong>the</strong><br />

trip, as Circle K’s and supermarkets<br />

are not so abundantly available.<br />

Also, it is advised to book a car<br />

and local driver through a travel<br />

agent to guide you through <strong>the</strong><br />

area, as Negara is not a “touristfriendly”<br />

zone, that being a positive<br />

trait, as it is not teeming with<br />

developments, establishments and<br />

noisy cafés or bars.<br />

where to stay<br />

Wira Pada Hotel<br />

Jl. Ngurah Rai, T: 0365 41161<br />

Medewi Beach Cottages<br />

T: 0365 40029<br />

Taman Wana Villas<br />

Jl. Taman Wana, T: 0365 470 2208<br />

33


to dine for<br />

this page<br />

a kaki lima speeding<br />

through <strong>the</strong> roads<br />

34


ali is quite famous for its street delicacies. each area has <strong>the</strong>ir own<br />

unique <strong>of</strong>fering <strong>of</strong> street foods and kaki lima stalls that give <strong>the</strong><br />

taste buds an au<strong>the</strong>ntic and affordable food fix<br />

Bali welcomes many cultures from around <strong>the</strong> world, but, for<br />

me, one thing is certain: original Indonesian cuisine cannot<br />

be topped, especially those that occupy <strong>the</strong> side streets in<br />

stalls or carts o<strong>the</strong>rwise known as kaki lima. Granted, it is not<br />

too appealing to crouch by <strong>the</strong> side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road munching on<br />

a dish that – in <strong>the</strong> mere process <strong>of</strong> its creation – may have<br />

broken countless food safety regulations; but believe it or<br />

not, for me, nothing beats a serving <strong>of</strong> ghetto nasi goreng,<br />

not even if it was served in <strong>the</strong> most expensive, luxurious<br />

restaurant. Selamat makan!<br />

dapur bebek<br />

As a duck lover, Bali has some hot spots to eat duck with rice. From all<br />

<strong>the</strong> quackers I’ve tried, <strong>the</strong> winner is Dapur Bebek in Denpasar. Here, you<br />

can choose how to have your duck cooked. They serve fried duck, grilled<br />

duck, and crispy duck. You can choose plain white rice or uduk rice (rice<br />

text nia kningty images james frampton<br />

cooked with coconut milk), and have as much <strong>of</strong> it as you like. The duck is<br />

tender, crispy, and melts beautifully <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> bones. What makes <strong>the</strong> food<br />

special are <strong>the</strong> super spicy sambal and <strong>the</strong> unique blend <strong>of</strong> spices used to<br />

cook <strong>the</strong> duck meat. My preferences rest on <strong>the</strong> fried duck, in which you<br />

can experience <strong>the</strong> original duck taste at its best. Jl. Teuku Umar (in front <strong>of</strong><br />

Libi), Denpasar, T: 0361 784 2525, 0361 871 8580<br />

bubur ayam bang yossi<br />

This chicken porridge stand opens for 24 hours, so you can have it<br />

for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is definitely <strong>the</strong> yummiest chicken<br />

porridge in Bali with <strong>the</strong> right variation <strong>of</strong> toppings – cheese sticks, fried<br />

onion, chives, tongcai (seasoned radish), cakwe, chicken chunks, and<br />

most importantly, <strong>the</strong>ir special broth. It is very creamy and nutty. The<br />

service is quite speedy and if you’re in a car, you can have your meal<br />

brought to you to be eaten while parked. Jl. Teuku Umar no. 8, Denpasar (in<br />

front <strong>of</strong> Libi and KFC)<br />

35


to dine for<br />

nasi pedas ibu andika<br />

In English, nasi pedas translates into spicy<br />

rice, and that itself is an understatement. They<br />

really went above and beyond with <strong>the</strong> hot and<br />

spicy. They have a wide variety <strong>of</strong> garnishes<br />

you can choose from: beef cutlets, shredded<br />

chicken, t<strong>of</strong>u, tempe, vegetables, fried noodles,<br />

and balado eggs, just to name a few. The fried<br />

chicken skin is <strong>the</strong> most famous garnish at Nasi<br />

Pedas Ibu Andika, but my personal favourites<br />

are <strong>the</strong> chicken liver and urap, a delightful<br />

blend <strong>of</strong> steamed vegetables mixed with grated<br />

coconut, chives, and spices. Jl. Raya Tuban (in<br />

front <strong>of</strong> Supernova Supermarket), Kuta<br />

mei & papa<br />

They serve one <strong>of</strong> my favourite Indonesian<br />

snacks: toasted buttered bread with an array<br />

<strong>of</strong> fillings, o<strong>the</strong>rwise known as roti bakar. The<br />

garnishes range from chocolate spread, cheese,<br />

peanuts, condensed milk to fruit jelly, but you<br />

can always mix and match with anything you<br />

36<br />

this page<br />

clock wise from left:<br />

nasi pedas; a fiery dish;<br />

romance can flower on<br />

<strong>the</strong> street<br />

want. They also give quirky names to dishes on<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir menu, such as Internet – an abbreviation<br />

for Indomie, telur, kornet (instant noodles with<br />

eggs and spam). Mei & Papa is also famous for<br />

its Nasi Gila (crazy rice) – a treat <strong>of</strong> fried rice,<br />

meats, spices, and rice crackers that,<br />

granted, can clog arteries but will leave you<br />

dying with a smile. Jl. Nakula no. 88Y, Seminyak,<br />

T: 0361 806 9353<br />

warung lalapan nakula<br />

This warung serves lele penyet (crushed cat fish),<br />

fried and topped <strong>of</strong>f with a tangy and spicy<br />

sambal mix. The fish is crushed after it is fried,<br />

giving it an extra crispy crunch, and with <strong>the</strong><br />

sambal, it definitely is a worthwhile meal.<br />

Jl. Nakula, Seminyak<br />

rawon setan<br />

Rawon is a dish from East Java. The dark colour<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> broth comes from <strong>the</strong> meaty seeds<br />

<strong>of</strong> kluwak nuts. It is usually served with raw<br />

alfalfa sprouts and salty duck eggs. Rawon is a<br />

common dish at local restaurants, but one <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> best places to have a taste is Rawon Setan.<br />

In English, setan means demon, and this name<br />

was given because this warung opens at around<br />

midnight, <strong>the</strong> time when demons apparently<br />

come out. I can assure you <strong>the</strong>re is nothing<br />

creepy about <strong>the</strong> rawon here, but <strong>the</strong> taste is<br />

definitely o<strong>the</strong>rworldly. Jl. Teuku Umar no. 122,<br />

Denpasar, T: 0361 265 529<br />

bakwan surabaya<br />

Bakwan, meaning meatball soup, is just as<br />

popular in Indonesia as nasi goreng (fried rice),<br />

and you’ll easily find carts that sell bakwan or<br />

bakso trolling <strong>the</strong> streets. This one in particular<br />

deserves ten thumbs up, if I had that many. The<br />

meat is succulent and s<strong>of</strong>t and blends right in<br />

with <strong>the</strong> broth soup. The meatballs can be made<br />

<strong>of</strong> beef, chicken, or fish, or a mixture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

three, served with noodles, t<strong>of</strong>u, chilli, crispy<br />

fried onion, and sweet soy sauce. Jl. Teuku Umar<br />

no. 54x, Denpasar, T: 0361 224 748, 0361 742 9650<br />

rujak pak randi<br />

Rujak is a fruit salad composed <strong>of</strong> different<br />

kinds <strong>of</strong> chopped fruits, commonly mango,<br />

pineapple, bengkoang (jicama), kedondong<br />

(ambarella / hog plum) and guava, but you can<br />

get creative with <strong>the</strong> choice <strong>of</strong> fruits. At Rujak<br />

Pak Randi, <strong>the</strong> mixed fruits are served with a<br />

sweet and spicy sauce, consisting <strong>of</strong> tamarind,<br />

terasi (shrimp paste), chilli peppers, palm sugar<br />

and salt. The end result is a truly spicy, exotic<br />

and sourly delicious fruit salad. The tamarind in<br />

<strong>the</strong> sauce adds a unique sweetness that works<br />

wonders with <strong>the</strong> acidity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fresh fruit slices.<br />

Jl. Raya Tuban (in front <strong>of</strong> Permata Bank), Kuta •


grazing<br />

this page<br />

clock wise from left:<br />

nestled in nature; ko’s<br />

interiors; <strong>the</strong> orient<br />

express chef<br />

38<br />

ko<br />

<strong>the</strong> setting<br />

Spacious, properly lit and built on top<br />

<strong>of</strong> a Japanese garden, KO resembles<br />

a labyrinth with hallways leading to<br />

different rooms. The newly renovated<br />

Sushi Bar has a modern look and<br />

can easily be thought <strong>of</strong> as a lounge<br />

(<strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong>y <strong>of</strong>fer many good<br />

cocktails also helps), while <strong>the</strong><br />

teppanyaki counters are set inside a<br />

separate room. Not far behind a sliding<br />

door is <strong>the</strong> establishment’s private<br />

dining area, which gives you <strong>the</strong> option<br />

to dine while sitting on <strong>the</strong> floor.<br />

<strong>the</strong> food<br />

To truly enjoy <strong>the</strong> establishment’s<br />

teppanyaki experience, we highly<br />

recommend one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> four teppanyaki<br />

set menus. Not only does this make life<br />

easier (imagine having to spend half<br />

an hour <strong>of</strong> precious sake-drinking time<br />

choosing dishes from <strong>the</strong> à la carte<br />

menu), but it also gives you <strong>the</strong> chance<br />

to taste almost everything a teppanyaki<br />

has to <strong>of</strong>fer. The KO gourmet<br />

experience, for example, includes<br />

oyster sashimi, teppanyaki salmon,<br />

teppanyaki foie gras served with apple<br />

and portabella, and a very interesting<br />

banana dessert. Ano<strong>the</strong>r option is <strong>the</strong><br />

KO special set menu that also includes<br />

both seafood and beef teppanyaki and<br />

three different options <strong>of</strong> rice.<br />

<strong>the</strong> unique<br />

One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> main things about<br />

eating teppanyaki is enjoying <strong>the</strong><br />

performance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> chef, perhaps<br />

showing us 100 different ways to<br />

sprinkle salt and pepper or maybe<br />

<strong>the</strong> 205 various ways <strong>of</strong> using <strong>the</strong><br />

salt and pepper grinders, or simply<br />

showing us how to cook <strong>the</strong> tuna cuts<br />

perfectly. This is why <strong>the</strong> Teppanyaki<br />

Bar is livelier compared to <strong>the</strong> Sushi<br />

Bar because <strong>the</strong> former involves<br />

occasional cheers and handclaps.<br />

Every Thursday from 6.30-8.30pm, both<br />

bars <strong>of</strong>fer all-you-can-eat sushi and<br />

teppanyaki buffet at Rp. 250,000++/<br />

person for sushi and Rp. 300,000++/<br />

person for teppanyaki. •<br />

InterContinental Bali Resort,<br />

Jl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran, T: 0361 701 888,<br />

www.bali.intercontinental.com


grazing<br />

<strong>the</strong> setting<br />

Kunyit is nestled within a garden and<br />

<strong>the</strong> architecture is reminiscent <strong>of</strong> a<br />

traditional Balinese pavilion, replete<br />

with <strong>the</strong> aroma <strong>of</strong> frangipani, stone<br />

carvings, water installations, and <strong>the</strong><br />

relaxed, breezy vibe <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

There are three o<strong>the</strong>r traditionally<br />

thatched bales scattered separately<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> garden for couples to<br />

experience a private dining interlude.<br />

A fourth bale has been designed<br />

to accommodate a family or small<br />

ga<strong>the</strong>ring <strong>of</strong> up to 12 people.<br />

<strong>the</strong> food<br />

Try out <strong>the</strong> megibung – a sampler feast<br />

for two where an array <strong>of</strong> dishes is<br />

placed in <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> table to<br />

share. This four-course meal begins<br />

with an assortment <strong>of</strong> satay sticks<br />

served from a small charcoal grill and<br />

a salad <strong>of</strong> bean sprouts and shredded<br />

chicken, followed by a clear chicken<br />

broth. The main course is an artistically<br />

presented platter <strong>of</strong> roasted chicken in<br />

a spicy sauce, saffron pork stew, pieces<br />

<strong>of</strong> deep fried Balinese sausage, grilled<br />

prawns, fish steamed in banana leaf,<br />

and a spicy green bean salad served<br />

with steamed rice infused with sweet<br />

potato and a selection <strong>of</strong> sambals.<br />

40<br />

kunyit <strong>the</strong> setting<br />

Recently launched, this sister property <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> original TAO in Tanjung Benoa takes on<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r Balinese specialties<br />

featured on <strong>the</strong> menu at Kunyit<br />

include green papaya soup and <strong>the</strong><br />

classic favourite – crispy fried duck.<br />

<strong>the</strong> unique<br />

Kunyit’s crispy fried duck is, as<br />

mentioned earlier, a culinary<br />

phenomenon. Their Balinese cuisine<br />

is as au<strong>the</strong>ntic and delicious as <strong>the</strong><br />

tongue permits. Not only that, but<br />

for <strong>the</strong> whole month <strong>of</strong> July, hellobali<br />

readers get special treatment – show<br />

July’s hellobali issue at <strong>the</strong> restaurant<br />

and receive a free dessert with<br />

every order <strong>of</strong> main course.<br />

Hotel Santika, Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta,<br />

T: 0361 751 267<br />

tao beach<br />

a chic, beach house setting: hence <strong>the</strong> name.<br />

Plush, red and white lounge s<strong>of</strong>as sprawled<br />

across an open balcony facing <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

and swimming pool, paired with clean-cut<br />

minimalist interiors in timeless hues make <strong>the</strong><br />

venue carry an air <strong>of</strong> tropical posh. The overall<br />

atmosphere is a lighter, younger, flirtier<br />

version <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original TAO in Tanjung Benoa.<br />

<strong>the</strong> food<br />

TAO Beach House is known for <strong>the</strong>ir Japanese<br />

cuisine, but <strong>the</strong>y also specialise in Thai,<br />

Vietnamese, Chinese and Indonesian food.<br />

Some culinary favourites are <strong>the</strong>ir goi chuon<br />

bo (chilled fresh Vietnamese spring rolls<br />

filled with grilled sirloin beef and garden<br />

vegetables), gung nang tord kratiem prik<br />

Thai (Thai-style stir-fried prawns with crispy<br />

garlic and pepper sauce), and <strong>the</strong> ikan bakar<br />

– grilled marinated red snapper served with<br />

sambal and garden vegetables.<br />

<strong>the</strong> unique<br />

TAO Beach House <strong>of</strong>fers a ro<strong>of</strong>top bar / lounge<br />

furnished with big, comfortable s<strong>of</strong>as that<br />

can be a very romantic setting for nighttime<br />

socialising. The location is also a perfect<br />

spot to catch <strong>the</strong> sunset accompanied by a<br />

drink chosen from <strong>the</strong>ir vast list <strong>of</strong> signature<br />

cocktails. TAO Beach House also provides full<br />

use <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir swimming pool, so having a perky<br />

pool party is never out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> question.<br />

Ramada Resort Camakila, Jl. Pura Bagus Teruna,<br />

Legian, T: 0361 753 602, www.taobeachhouse.com


grazing<br />

42<br />

FOOD EVENTS<br />

Sea Circus: with <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> Sydney cocktail<br />

legend Mark Ward, Sea Circus has created<br />

a signature cocktail list, which reflects <strong>the</strong><br />

sharer concept <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> food menu. The list<br />

includes one aperitif, one scropino, four<br />

sharer cocktail carafes and one digestif.<br />

July, 6.30pm-1am, T: 0361 738 667.<br />

Basilico, Sanur Beach Bali: try <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

new menu; homemade seafood ravioli,<br />

saltimbocca alla romana and piccata alla<br />

zigana, egg-dipped and pan-fried pork<br />

medallions on julienne <strong>of</strong> ham, salami, leeks<br />

and herbs. July onwards, T: 0361 288 011.<br />

The King Cole Bar, St Regis: Classic<br />

Afternoon Tea featuring hot and cold<br />

delicacies including lobster pie and marbled<br />

foie gras terrine, Valrhona chocolates,<br />

homemade pralines and ice cream, with<br />

memorable afternoon tea classics <strong>of</strong> scones<br />

complemented with clotted cream and finger<br />

sandwiches. Mon-Sun, 3pm-5.30pm,<br />

Rp. 350,000/person, T: 0361 300 6782.<br />

Cascade Bar & Terrace, The Laguna Nusa<br />

Dua: The Pasar Minggu package allows you<br />

to savour traditional Indonesian cuisine; tipat<br />

cantok (succulent rice cake tossed in crushed<br />

peanut, garlic and sweet soy sauce), karedok<br />

(diced raw vegetables with peanut and<br />

gingers), asinan Jakarta (Jakartan pickled salad,<br />

consist <strong>of</strong>: cabbage, carrot, bean sprout, fried<br />

peanut), rujak manis (assorted tropical fruits<br />

with chilli, tamarind and palm sugar), sambal<br />

goreng hati (wok fried beef liver with potato<br />

and chilli, tomato and candle nut), nasi goreng<br />

bahari (seafood fried rice, enhanced with chilli<br />

tomato sambal), jajanan pasar (local Indonesian<br />

sweets) and many more. Every Sunday, 7pm,<br />

Rp. 150,000++/person, T: 0361 771 327.<br />

Hu’u Bar: launching this month, <strong>the</strong> Martini<br />

Brunch Menu is a four-course meal with<br />

an extensive choice <strong>of</strong> dishes accompanied<br />

by a selection <strong>of</strong> free flow multi-flavoured<br />

martinis; lychee martini, lemongrass martini,<br />

dirty vodka martini, very bloody mary<br />

martini, cosmopolitan, sour apple martini,<br />

spiced apple martini, and mango martini.<br />

Every Sunday starting July 18, 12noon-3pm,<br />

Rp. 388,000++/person inclusive <strong>of</strong> free flow<br />

martini, Rp. 188,000++/person for brunch<br />

only, T: 0361 736 443.<br />

bubba<br />

gump<br />

shrimp co.<br />

<strong>the</strong> setting<br />

Anybody who has been virtually<br />

anywhere in America will recognise<br />

that Bubba Gump is a carbon copy<br />

<strong>of</strong> most American chain restaurants,<br />

particularly those that have sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

roots. The walls are adorned with<br />

“Forrest Gump” paraphernalia along<br />

with painted catch phrases from what is<br />

arguably one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> greatest American<br />

films <strong>of</strong> all time. The rustic interior<br />

gives <strong>the</strong> restaurant a casual feel.<br />

<strong>the</strong> food<br />

“So Bubba was from Bayou la Batrie,<br />

Alabama, and his mama cooked<br />

shrimp. And her mama before her<br />

cooked shrimp, and her mama before<br />

her mama cooked shrimp, too. Bubba’s<br />

family knew everything <strong>the</strong>re was to<br />

know about <strong>the</strong> shrimpin’ business.”<br />

BGSC is all about <strong>the</strong> shrimp and<br />

almost <strong>the</strong> entire menu is devoted<br />

to <strong>the</strong> tasty crustaceans. Try <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

Dynamite Shrimp, it is basically fried<br />

popcorn shrimp but with an addition<br />

<strong>of</strong> a spicy Thai-style glaze that<br />

definitely sparks up your taste buds.<br />

Their Shrimper’s Heaven is a<br />

multitude <strong>of</strong> different forms <strong>of</strong> shrimp.<br />

Indeed, why have one type <strong>of</strong> shrimp<br />

when you can have four. Surprisingly<br />

diverse in texture and flavour, give<br />

this dish a try if you want diversity in<br />

your crustaceans.<br />

<strong>the</strong> unique<br />

Bubba Gump is a totally unpretentious<br />

restaurant that doesn’t seek out to<br />

be a luxury eatery, which is quite<br />

refreshing considering what most<br />

restaurants on this island aspire to<br />

be. As well as being virtually <strong>the</strong> only<br />

American chain restaurant to grace<br />

<strong>the</strong> shores <strong>of</strong> Bali, it is basically <strong>the</strong><br />

only <strong>the</strong>me restaurant here. Free small<br />

portions <strong>of</strong> dessert are provided when<br />

you order a main. Deliciously and<br />

quintessentially American are sweets<br />

such as key lime pie and chocolate<br />

chip coolie sundae.<br />

Anybody who has ever said “life<br />

is like a box <strong>of</strong> chocolates” must make<br />

a trip over to Bubba Gump Shrimp Co.<br />

And that’s all we have to say about that.<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza no. 8x, Kuta,<br />

T: 0361 754 028


Jl. Sunset Road No 99 Bali-Indonesia<br />

P. +62 361 7807744/ F. +62 361 8477346<br />

marketing.bali@sushitei.com<br />

Sushi<br />

Tei Bali was opened in<br />

September with 8 VIP rooms,<br />

Garden with 68 seats, and<br />

Hall with 150 seats Sushi Tei<br />

also provide catering as a set<br />

<strong>of</strong> menu or buffet is typing a<br />

message.<br />

43


style<br />

44


this page<br />

lycra draped mini dress<br />

opposite page<br />

batik silk jersey dress<br />

with silk chiffon shawl<br />

45


style<br />

this page<br />

rayon jersey reversible palazzo<br />

pants/silk chiffon jacket;<br />

lycra mini sarong dress/silk<br />

chiffon beaded scarf<br />

opposite page<br />

rayon jersey caftan<br />

46


Photographer<br />

Dewandra Djelantik<br />

Hair & Make up<br />

Yeanne<br />

All images are courtesy <strong>of</strong> Milo’s<br />

www.milos-bali.com<br />

Milo’s Oberoi<br />

T: 0361 730 410<br />

Milo’s at Made’s Warung<br />

T: 0361 731 689<br />

Milo’s Bazaar<br />

T: 0361 735 551<br />

47


oom raider<br />

this page<br />

clock wise from left:<br />

plush pillow talk;<br />

cutting-edge<br />

style; a friendly<br />

neighbourhood<br />

kanishka villas<br />

where is it?<br />

The best thing about staying in<br />

Seminyak is that you’re right on<br />

<strong>the</strong> pulse <strong>of</strong> modern and posh Bali,<br />

but that also comes with a price:<br />

noise pollution and traffic. The<br />

street-savvy travellers navigate<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir way around Jalan Legian via<br />

Sunset Road because it’s bigger<br />

and less congested. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

shortcuts back to Seminyak<br />

is through Jalan Kunti, on<br />

which Kanisha Villas is located,<br />

known to host trendy shops<br />

selling designer goods and also<br />

Bali Deli – one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island’s<br />

institutions in which imported<br />

food and beverages are sold, a<br />

supermarket-cum-bistro that<br />

over <strong>the</strong> years has earned <strong>the</strong><br />

right to ascend to throne as<br />

one <strong>of</strong> Bali’s most important<br />

tourist spots.<br />

Now, <strong>the</strong> best way to stay in<br />

Seminyak is to be comfortably<br />

near, but yet far enough so that<br />

<strong>the</strong> noise and <strong>the</strong> gridlock <strong>of</strong><br />

motor vehicles seem to be non-<br />

48<br />

existent. And one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> areas to do<br />

so, in <strong>the</strong> best and most fashionable<br />

way, is indeed Jalan Kunti.<br />

what are <strong>the</strong> villas like?<br />

Each <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> villas has two<br />

bedrooms, one upstairs and one<br />

downstairs. The bigger room<br />

is <strong>the</strong> one upstairs with a neat<br />

balcony and outdoor shower. The<br />

downstairs is not significantly<br />

smaller and it is closer to <strong>the</strong><br />

swimming pool. The kitchen has<br />

almost everything you need to cook<br />

with, from utensils to ample room<br />

to manoeuvre in, and <strong>the</strong> living<br />

room is stylish and at <strong>the</strong> same<br />

time very inviting to lounge in.<br />

what are <strong>the</strong> facilities like?<br />

One <strong>of</strong> our editors is adamant that<br />

technology is <strong>the</strong> new intimacy.<br />

There is some truth to that; you<br />

can be staying in <strong>the</strong> most lavish,<br />

stylish, or renowned place with <strong>the</strong><br />

most comfortable bed, but when<br />

you want to log on to Facebook and<br />

are not able to, for most people, all<br />

<strong>the</strong> previously mentioned luxuries<br />

become meaningless in an instant.<br />

Fortunately, <strong>the</strong> villas at Kanishka<br />

are all equipped with a speedy<br />

Wi-Fi connection that enables<br />

anyone to explore <strong>the</strong> world while<br />

remaining in solitude, in <strong>the</strong><br />

comfort <strong>of</strong> your villa.<br />

If you’re a spa enthusiast, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

also provide in-villa treatments,<br />

which is part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> services<br />

provided by <strong>the</strong> property’s<br />

Malkoha Spa.<br />

what about food and drink?<br />

We think <strong>the</strong> highlight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

breakfast menu is definitely <strong>the</strong><br />

bubur ayam (chicken porridge),<br />

which is included in <strong>the</strong> Chef<br />

Breakfast package. And, although<br />

not extensive, <strong>the</strong> in-villa dining<br />

menu is good enough in case you<br />

don’t feel like going out to <strong>the</strong><br />

streets to grab some grub. Should<br />

you feel like having a romantic<br />

dinner in <strong>the</strong> comfort and privacy<br />

<strong>of</strong> your own villa, <strong>the</strong> staff are more<br />

than ready to fulfil this request. •<br />

Their Internet rates start at US$ 315++<br />

per night, Jl. Kunti no. 8Y, Seminyak,<br />

T: 0361 733 870, kanishkavillas.com


essence<br />

50<br />

this page<br />

clock wise from left:<br />

beauty tools; sitting<br />

pretty and looking<br />

relaxed; glowing<br />

facials<br />

01<br />

<strong>the</strong> look<br />

The interior <strong>of</strong> this establishment<br />

is rustic, yet modern and<br />

comfortable. With exception to<br />

<strong>the</strong> iron sculptures that adorn<br />

various parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> spa, it has<br />

an almost colonial feel to it.<br />

None <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rooms seem entirely<br />

enclosed which works well for<br />

Antique Spa because it is located<br />

in <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> open rice<br />

paddies <strong>of</strong> Umalas. Slight breezes<br />

regularly pay welcome visits<br />

while you enjoy your treatment.<br />

gentle<br />

rough edges<br />

<strong>of</strong>fering a unique blend <strong>of</strong> treatments<br />

for all genders and lifestyle choices,<br />

antique spa is one for all, all for one<br />

text chris le images courtesy <strong>of</strong> antique spa<br />

<strong>the</strong> touch<br />

I received <strong>the</strong> Kamashila<br />

treatment, which was a relaxing<br />

aroma<strong>the</strong>rapy massage<br />

coupled with a body scrub. It<br />

comprised <strong>of</strong> a considerate<br />

massage that managed to send<br />

me to that relaxed psyche<br />

somewhere between sleep<br />

and consciousness. Once <strong>the</strong><br />

massage was over, I was treated<br />

with an exfoliating treatment<br />

<strong>of</strong> green tea granules. The<br />

sensation <strong>of</strong> gritty paste being<br />

rubbed all over my body provided<br />

me with what seemed like a<br />

perfect balance <strong>of</strong> cleanliness<br />

and abrasion. If you like your<br />

back scratched, try getting it<br />

exfoliated, it feels very good. One<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> more unique things about<br />

Antique Spa is its body shampoo<br />

at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> treatment. The<br />

<strong>the</strong>rapist shampoos your entire<br />

body so you don’t have that<br />

massage oil residue and you feel<br />

absolutely clean and ready to<br />

tackle <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> your day.<br />

<strong>the</strong> ingredients<br />

The spa uses Pevonia Botanica<br />

which seems to be getting<br />

increasingly popular with spas<br />

around <strong>the</strong> island. Antique also<br />

has jicama from Java as an option<br />

<strong>of</strong> creams which is reputed to<br />

whiten skin tone.<br />

<strong>the</strong> extraordinary<br />

At Antique Spa, <strong>the</strong> sex <strong>of</strong> your<br />

masseuse is entirely optional.<br />

It’s not necessarily a sexual<br />

thing; it’s more about what<br />

makes Antique’s clientele more<br />

comfortable. So if <strong>the</strong> genders<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hands that treat your<br />

body matter to you, <strong>the</strong>n you’re<br />

in luck at Antique. Also unique<br />

to this spa is its use <strong>of</strong> falling<br />

water instead <strong>of</strong> music to provide<br />

auditory soothing. •<br />

Jl. Dukuh Indah (near Umalas<br />

Stable), Umalas, T: 0361 742 3580,<br />

www.antiquebali.com


essence<br />

02<br />

52<br />

maximum<br />

beauty,<br />

minimum<br />

effort<br />

<strong>the</strong>y say beauty is a lot <strong>of</strong> pain and work. how can<br />

<strong>the</strong>y be more wrong? at padma spa by mandara,<br />

looking beautiful can be achieved by having a lot<br />

<strong>of</strong> fun from getting yourself pampered<br />

text indra johan images courtesy <strong>of</strong> mandara spa and pevonia botanica<br />

<strong>the</strong> look<br />

Set below Padma Resort’s<br />

main restaurant, Padma Spa by<br />

Mandara gives <strong>the</strong> impression<br />

<strong>of</strong> a stylish comfort-cave. Built<br />

and designed by The Private Spa<br />

Corporation (which provides allround<br />

spa-related services ranging<br />

from concept, architectural and<br />

interior design <strong>of</strong> a spa to product<br />

supply, training, and also <strong>the</strong><br />

state-<strong>of</strong>-<strong>the</strong>-art equipment supply,<br />

such as <strong>the</strong> Vitality Hydro<strong>the</strong>rapy<br />

Pool) and run by Mandara Spa,<br />

this joint combines all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

facets <strong>of</strong> modern comforts<br />

with <strong>the</strong> exoticism and mysterious<br />

beauties <strong>of</strong> Asia. Think plush<br />

pillows and s<strong>of</strong>as among statues<br />

<strong>of</strong> Buddha displayed behind<br />

glass tubes.<br />

<strong>the</strong> touch<br />

The one secret that separates<br />

a good spa from an excellent<br />

one is <strong>the</strong> smoothness <strong>of</strong><br />

everything that is involved in<br />

your treatment. You should not<br />

feel distracted by <strong>the</strong> movement<br />

<strong>of</strong> your <strong>the</strong>rapist when switching<br />

from massaging your right leg<br />

to your left leg. You shouldn’t<br />

even notice it all. And Mandara<br />

Spa knows this technique very<br />

well, which probably explains<br />

why <strong>the</strong>y have successful spas<br />

all over <strong>the</strong> world. Not noticing<br />

your mind and body sublimating<br />

into a state <strong>of</strong> total bliss really<br />

makes it all that much better.<br />

<strong>the</strong> ingredients<br />

From this month on, Padma<br />

Spa by Mandara <strong>of</strong>fers a<br />

range <strong>of</strong> treatments using<br />

Pevonia Botanica, <strong>the</strong> worldclass<br />

producer <strong>of</strong> spa care<br />

products containing <strong>the</strong> finest<br />

natural marine and botanical<br />

this page clock wise from left: exotic<br />

warmth in a plush setting; a touch <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

orient; pevonia botanica magic potions<br />

ingredients. Launched in 1991,<br />

this line focuses on skincare<br />

solutions for women and men<br />

<strong>of</strong> all ages and ethnicities,<br />

which means us men are not<br />

only allowed to be vain about<br />

our faces and skin, but are also<br />

encouraged to do so.<br />

This spa <strong>of</strong>fers a facial for<br />

men using <strong>the</strong> Pevonia line where<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir best products for men,<br />

including <strong>the</strong> Aqua-Gel Cleanser,<br />

Easy-Glide Shaving Emulsion,<br />

Soothing After Shaving Balm, ‘C’<br />

Evolutive Eye Gel, Age-Defying<br />

Caviar Balm, are all used expertly<br />

to make you look fresher,<br />

younger and more energised,<br />

or in a nutshell: luminous. And<br />

<strong>the</strong> best part <strong>of</strong> it is <strong>the</strong>re is no<br />

pain or hard work involved. You<br />

only need to lie down, close your<br />

eyes, enjoy <strong>the</strong> music and <strong>the</strong><br />

massages, maybe snore a little,<br />

and wake up a reborn man.<br />

<strong>the</strong> exceptional<br />

If you can’t have enough <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Pevonia Botanica products for<br />

men, you can also buy <strong>the</strong>m as<br />

<strong>the</strong>y also <strong>of</strong>fer more than 100<br />

homecare products. What we<br />

highly recommend is <strong>the</strong> Age-<br />

Defying Caviar Balm, which you<br />

can use everyday. Those tiny<br />

fish eggs are not only delicious,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y also contain a lot <strong>of</strong> protein<br />

– your skin’s favourite and also<br />

most nutritious meal. •<br />

Padma Resort Bali at Legian,<br />

Jl. Padma no. 1, Legian, T: 0361<br />

752 111, padmaresortbali.com,<br />

mandaraspa.com, <strong>the</strong>privatespa.com


essence<br />

silk renewal at kriya spa<br />

A unique three-in-one treatment experience comprised <strong>of</strong> scrub,<br />

wrap and massage with a signature exfoliating massage balm. The<br />

ritual features an application <strong>of</strong> skin-texturising scrub cream followed<br />

by cocooning <strong>the</strong> body in s<strong>of</strong>t linen. The natural alpha hydroxy acids<br />

derived from sugarcane and papaya buffered with oils <strong>of</strong> sesame seed<br />

and sunflower gently remove surface pollutants to reveal silky smooth<br />

skin. During <strong>the</strong> wrap, this exclusive ritual includes a specially created<br />

acupressure face and scalp massage to rebalance and soo<strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong> body<br />

and spirit.<br />

The 75-minute treatment is priced at US$ 75, all inclusive.<br />

Kriya Spa, Grand Hyatt Bali, Nusa Dua, T: 0361 778 884, kriya-spa.com<br />

spa deals<br />

<strong>the</strong> birds and <strong>the</strong> bees<br />

Theta Spa’s sweetest treatment<br />

uses live Borneo honey, which is<br />

commonly used as an antiseptic and<br />

emollient for <strong>the</strong> skin, combined with<br />

ground sesame seeds to exfoliate.<br />

Topped <strong>of</strong>f with an all-natural banana<br />

leaf wrap and honey milk bath to<br />

render your skin extra creamy, this<br />

two-hour treatment will leave you<br />

feeling sultry, inside and out. The<br />

Honey Love treatment is priced at<br />

US$ 138++, inclusive <strong>of</strong> a fresh drink.<br />

Champagne is available by request.<br />

54<br />

<strong>the</strong>ta spa by <strong>the</strong> sea, Ramada Bintang Bali<br />

Resort, Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban, Kuta,<br />

T: 0361 755 726, <strong>the</strong>taspa.com<br />

siloam spa opens<br />

its doors<br />

To meet <strong>the</strong> needs <strong>of</strong> guests, Aston at Grand<br />

Kuta Hotel & Residence recently opened a new<br />

spa called Siloam Spa. All treatments are given<br />

under <strong>the</strong> health and hygiene supervision <strong>of</strong><br />

Dr Yetie, who holds a Spa CIBTAC diploma<br />

from London. Ingredients used for treatments<br />

are processed naturally, for example: herbs<br />

to neutralise sickness caused by <strong>the</strong> everchanging<br />

wea<strong>the</strong>r and temperature, lavender<br />

to soo<strong>the</strong>, and ginger and spices to warm <strong>the</strong><br />

body and remove fatigue.<br />

Siloam Spa, Aston at Grand Kuta Hotel &<br />

Residence, Jl. Dewi Sri no. 8, Kuta, T: 0361 300<br />

0888, astonbalihotels.com<br />

la vie en rouge<br />

Taman Merah Spa’s Total Beauty Care<br />

treatment is <strong>the</strong> ultimate wellness<br />

and beauty affair. It is 180 minutes <strong>of</strong><br />

pampering and primping, starting <strong>of</strong>f<br />

with a deep tissue massage to smooth<br />

out kinks and muscle tension, and<br />

continuing with a beauty treatment<br />

<strong>of</strong> your choice (manicure – pedicure,<br />

facial, body scrub, or hair spa). This<br />

treatment is <strong>the</strong> absolute fixer-upper<br />

for body and soul and costs US$ 95++.<br />

Taman Merah Spa, Jl. Petitenget<br />

no. 469, Seminyak, T: 0361 736 487,<br />

tamanmerah.com<br />

fruits <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> heart<br />

The healthy benefits<br />

<strong>of</strong> fresh fruit are<br />

brought to light<br />

in this delicious<br />

spa indulgence<br />

that will leave you<br />

feeling full <strong>of</strong> zest. A<br />

replenishing green<br />

tea and avocado<br />

foot ritual, rich in natural oils and proteins,<br />

begins <strong>the</strong> treatment.<br />

A watermelon and honey facial will<br />

<strong>the</strong>n cleanse and hydrate <strong>the</strong> skin to give it<br />

a radiant glow. The sensation <strong>of</strong> fresh fruit<br />

continues with a local Balinese orange and<br />

lime milk bath. A mouth-<strong>watering</strong> papaya<br />

sorbet with watermelon cocktail, enriched with<br />

vitamins, concludes this fruity spa experience.<br />

DaLa Spa, Villa de Daun, Jl. Raya Legian, Kuta,<br />

T: 0361 756 276, dalaspa.com<br />

a spiritual journey<br />

at maya ubud<br />

The Spiritual Journey package is a unique<br />

package that introduces participants to<br />

better understand <strong>the</strong> spiritual aspects <strong>of</strong><br />

Balinese life and spirituality, whilst creating<br />

a rejuvenating and healing experience<br />

for participants. Each enlightening<br />

day commences with morning yoga<br />

and meditation sessions, followed<br />

by exploring nearby temples and visiting<br />

a traditional Balinese healer (balian), or<br />

even a spiritual consultation and priestly<br />

blessing. Ano<strong>the</strong>r option is to learn with village<br />

ladies <strong>the</strong> art <strong>of</strong> making traditional temple<br />

<strong>of</strong>ferings as our guide carefully explains <strong>the</strong><br />

meaning <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>ferings, which can later be<br />

presented during <strong>the</strong> village temple visit.<br />

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa, Jl. Gunung Sari<br />

Peliatan, Ubud, T: 0361 977 888, mayaubud.com


<strong>of</strong>fshore<br />

komodo islands <strong>of</strong>fer more than just dragons. it is also teeming with<br />

colourful sea life, scenic trails, and bursts <strong>of</strong> nature<br />

<strong>the</strong><br />

floresian<br />

sun<br />

text + images meliana salim<br />

56 56


I<br />

have developed a new obsession; it’s comparable to<br />

collecting passport stamps. I make checkmarks on <strong>the</strong> map<br />

<strong>of</strong> islands I’ve visited in Indonesia. With over 17,000 counted<br />

islands spanning almost two million square kilometres<br />

between Asia and Australia, it is a tad ambitious, not to<br />

mention ludicrous, to attempt to visit every island in <strong>the</strong><br />

Indonesian Archipelago. The feasible option is to focus on<br />

<strong>the</strong> ones that are clearly visible on <strong>the</strong> map. Java earned my first tick<br />

<strong>of</strong> approval, purely by default – I was born <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

Having lived in Bali for <strong>the</strong> past three years, it seems only<br />

natural to succumb to <strong>the</strong> lure <strong>of</strong> greener grasses (and <strong>the</strong> chance<br />

to earn extra “stamps”) <strong>of</strong> its neighbouring islands: Flores and<br />

Komodo. With three airlines <strong>of</strong>fering daily flights direct from Bali,<br />

travel planning is a breeze. A round-trip ticket from Bali to Labuan<br />

Bajo, Flores’s port <strong>of</strong> entry, costs approximately US$ 150. As with<br />

all domestic flights, allowing some flexibility and a good dose <strong>of</strong><br />

patience will go a long way in ensuring a pleasant trip.<br />

The aerial view from a pleasant 1.5-hour flight to Labuan Bajo<br />

and <strong>the</strong> tales surrounding <strong>the</strong> barren and savannah-like Komodo<br />

National Park are enough to get my adrenaline pumping. The<br />

Komodo Islands have gained international fame for <strong>the</strong>ir legendary<br />

mascots, <strong>the</strong> komodo dragon, or ora, as locally called. According to<br />

Dr. Lawrence Blair – lecturer, filmmaker and writer <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> awardwinning<br />

series “Ring <strong>of</strong> Fire” – Komodo Island and its man-eating<br />

prehistoric monsters (a Swiss baron was <strong>the</strong> first known Westerner<br />

to be eaten by <strong>the</strong> dragons in <strong>the</strong> mid seventies) inspired Willis<br />

O’Brien’s classic film “King Kong”. I’m intrigued.<br />

I choose Villa Seirama Alam, a charming three-bedroom cottage<br />

built lovingly by a German nature photographer, as my home for<br />

<strong>the</strong> next five days. Strategically located ten minutes away from<br />

Komodo Airport with a grasping view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Labuan Bajo bay, from<br />

<strong>the</strong> vantage point <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> veranda, I embrace <strong>the</strong> warm afternoon<br />

sun while planning my itinerary with Ibu Getrudis, a local travel<br />

operator, over pisang goreng (banana fritters) and sweet tea.<br />

57


<strong>of</strong>fshore<br />

58<br />

geting <strong>the</strong>re<br />

airlines<br />

TransNusa Airlines<br />

transnusa.co.id<br />

Indonesia Air Transport<br />

iat.co.id<br />

Merpati Airlines<br />

merpati.co.id<br />

accommodation<br />

Villa Seirama Alam<br />

(enjoyflores.com)<br />

Bajo Komodo Eco Lodge<br />

(ecolodgesindonesia.com)<br />

Bintang Flores Hotel<br />

(bintangfloreshotel.com)<br />

The Jayakarta Suites<br />

Komodo-Flores<br />

jayakartahotelsresorts.com/hotels-<br />

and-resorts/suites-komodo-flores<br />

food<br />

Pesona Bali Gardena Restaurant<br />

Paradise Bar<br />

tour operators<br />

Getrudis Tours & Travel<br />

Labuan Bajo Office: +62 385 41373<br />

T. +62 813 3809 6912<br />

E. getrudistour@yahoo.com<br />

dive operator<br />

Dive Komodo<br />

divekomodo.com<br />

Although visiting <strong>the</strong> monstrous pre-historic<br />

Komodo dragon in <strong>the</strong>ir natural homes is high on my<br />

list, <strong>the</strong> real draw for me is diving one <strong>of</strong> arguably <strong>the</strong><br />

richest marine ecosystems in <strong>the</strong> world. The Komodo<br />

National Park – a UNESCO World Heritage Site and<br />

Man and Biosphere Reserve – stretches over 2,321<br />

square kilometres, consisting <strong>of</strong> three main islands:<br />

Komodo, Rinca and Padar. With more than 50 unique<br />

dive sites, narrowing it down to six dives is a serious<br />

challenge. I decide it’s best to leave it to <strong>the</strong> dive<br />

masters at Dive Komodo while I cool <strong>of</strong>f with a<br />

couple <strong>of</strong> Bintangs at Paradise Bar, promising <strong>the</strong><br />

best sunset in town as dusk creeps in.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> crack <strong>of</strong> dawn, <strong>the</strong> main jetty is bursting<br />

with people and activities. I watch local children<br />

playing and fishing on <strong>the</strong> dock, fishermen<br />

transporting <strong>the</strong> day’s catch to an adjacent market,<br />

and boat crew loading up supplies and equipment. It<br />

is decided that I will do three days <strong>of</strong> diving, with a<br />

surface interval on <strong>the</strong> second day combined with a<br />

day-trip to Rinca Island.<br />

The aptly named Castle Rock, a submerged<br />

seamount at three-to-four-metres deep, <strong>of</strong>fers<br />

shelter from <strong>the</strong> east-flowing current. The turbulent<br />

drift dive allows for shoulder brushing with reef<br />

sharks, enormous napoleon wrasses, green turtles,<br />

angelfish, and schooling anthias, black snappers,<br />

batfish and jacks. This blood-pumping experience is<br />

quickly duplicated with greater intensity in Crystal<br />

Rock, its name derived from <strong>the</strong> crystal-clear water<br />

surrounding an open water pinnacle that rises to 14<br />

metres with a 20-metre deep saddle in <strong>the</strong> middle.<br />

The strong currents and spectacularly steep<br />

drop-<strong>of</strong>fs at Batu Bolong, also dubbed “Current<br />

City”, protect this signature Komodo dive site from<br />

local fishermen’s destructive fishing methods. This<br />

little rock pinnacle that lies 75 metres deep is a<br />

kaleidoscopic spectacle <strong>of</strong> marine bio-diversity in<br />

action: hawksbill turtles feeding on tunicates and<br />

sponges; magnificent walls patrolled by pelagic such<br />

as reef sharks, napoleon wrasses, giant trevallies, and<br />

dog-too<strong>the</strong>d tuna; flamboyant s<strong>of</strong>t corals swarming<br />

with brilliant reef fish; and <strong>the</strong> occasional manta ray<br />

making a guest appearance from <strong>the</strong> deep blue.<br />

When I finally come up for air, we sail <strong>of</strong>f to Loh<br />

Buaya, <strong>the</strong> access point to see Komodo dragons<br />

on Rinca Island. My first sighting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Komodo<br />

dragons occurs below <strong>the</strong> kitchen in <strong>the</strong> rangers’<br />

camp. The dragons are resting in <strong>the</strong> cool shades <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> raised structure. Eager to see one in its natural<br />

habitat, I follow our park ranger Pak Latih, an expert<br />

in his field with 27 years <strong>of</strong> experience, on an hourlong<br />

hiking tour (a four-hour trek is available upon<br />

request) across <strong>the</strong> open grass-woodland savannas<br />

and tropical deciduous forests. He uncovers <strong>the</strong><br />

dragons’ nests, points out water buffalos, warns<br />

opposite page<br />

clockwise from top:<br />

<strong>the</strong> legendary dragons;<br />

batu bolong reef; a<br />

swirling school <strong>of</strong> fish<br />

<strong>of</strong> wild boars, and cautions us to watch our step.<br />

Apparently one <strong>of</strong> his colleagues unknowingly<br />

stepped on a dragon’s tail while leading a trek. He<br />

suffered from <strong>the</strong> venomous bite but managed to<br />

survive due to immediate medical attention. Perhaps<br />

trekking is not such a good idea.<br />

An adult male dragon can grow to more than three<br />

metres long and weigh a hefty 160 kilograms, making<br />

<strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> largest lizards in <strong>the</strong> world. There are only a<br />

total <strong>of</strong> 1,600 Komodo dragons left in <strong>the</strong> wild (down<br />

from 3,300), 700 <strong>of</strong> which reside in Loh Buaya.<br />

In 1980, <strong>the</strong> Komodo National Park established<br />

strict anti-poaching laws to help increase <strong>the</strong><br />

population. The main contributing factor in <strong>the</strong><br />

decline is a lack <strong>of</strong> food supply on <strong>the</strong> islands. The<br />

dragons are cannibalistic (<strong>the</strong> younger dragons<br />

<strong>of</strong>ten roll in <strong>the</strong> larger dragons’ faeces to disguise<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir juvenile scent and protect <strong>the</strong>mselves), tertiary<br />

predators that scavenge for carcasses <strong>of</strong> water<br />

buffalos, monkeys, goats, dogs, wild boars, and deer.<br />

On my last dive I insist on diving at Karang<br />

Makassar (commonly known as Manta Point) in<br />

South Komodo. At a maximum depth <strong>of</strong> 16 metres,<br />

<strong>the</strong> plankton-infested milky water is <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />

feeding ground for <strong>the</strong>se giants. A resting marble<br />

stingray instantly greets me. I kneel on <strong>the</strong> shallow<br />

sandy bottom and wait eagerly for <strong>the</strong> show to begin.<br />

Suddenly a three-metre wide manta ray swoops<br />

overhead, promptly followed by two o<strong>the</strong>rs. I watch<br />

in complete awe, marvelling at <strong>the</strong> finesse with which<br />

<strong>the</strong>se majestic mantas glide in to vacuum up clouds<br />

<strong>of</strong> plankton. Then, as if it can get any better, one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mantas comes directly at me, so close above<br />

that I feel <strong>the</strong> need to hold my breath. I lean back<br />

and capture a shot <strong>of</strong> its underbelly. It is a surreal,<br />

heart-to-heart moment shared between <strong>the</strong> manta<br />

and me. I somersault with more than 15 mantas for<br />

almost an hour. Then just like <strong>the</strong>ir sudden arrival, as<br />

if on cue, <strong>the</strong>y disappear into <strong>the</strong> murk. With a heavy,<br />

humbled heart, I tear myself away from this endlessly<br />

entertaining live performance, and back to <strong>the</strong> quiet<br />

pulse <strong>of</strong> Labuan Bajo.<br />

My brief five-day visit to Flores and Komodo<br />

leaves me wanting more. Mainland Flores tempts<br />

with promises <strong>of</strong> pristine waterfalls, multi-coloured<br />

lakes, indigenous villages, scenic volcanoes, and<br />

white sand beaches. There are plenty <strong>of</strong> “stamps”<br />

waiting for me to collect. I’ll be back. •


adventure<br />

60<br />

leap <strong>of</strong> faith<br />

if you’ve ever wanted to see what free falling is like and can’t be bo<strong>the</strong>red jumping out <strong>of</strong><br />

an airplane, aj hackett might have something for you<br />

text chris le images courtesy <strong>of</strong> aj hackett<br />

I’m willing to bet that at<br />

one time or ano<strong>the</strong>r, you’ve<br />

sat down somewhere<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach between<br />

Kuta and Seminyak. You<br />

probably stared into <strong>the</strong> slowly<br />

setting sun as it simmered into<br />

<strong>the</strong> horizon and at one point you<br />

must’ve looked to <strong>the</strong> side and<br />

saw an enormous white skeletal<br />

tower with <strong>the</strong> word “bungy” in<br />

glowing red letters.<br />

This sign might have beckoned<br />

you over, luring your inner<br />

daredevil and repulsing your more<br />

timid conscience. “C’mon, yeah<br />

you, jump <strong>of</strong>f this giant tower<br />

attached to a rubber band, who<br />

cares if this monolith is in a thirdworld<br />

country, it’ll feel good.” If you<br />

enjoy adrenaline coursing through<br />

your veins like a derailed freight<br />

train on crack, it feels real good.<br />

AJ Hackett Bungy is an<br />

international company that<br />

pioneered and developed many<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> techniques used to safely<br />

allow a person to freefall whilst<br />

attached to a giant piece <strong>of</strong><br />

elastic latex. According to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

website, <strong>the</strong> cord is made up <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> same stretchy strands used<br />

to make <strong>the</strong> elastic that enables<br />

your underwear to be securely<br />

fastened to your waist.<br />

Despite picturing my cord as<br />

being a bunch <strong>of</strong> tighty whities<br />

sewn up toge<strong>the</strong>r and thinking<br />

about how this primitive island is<br />

in a developing country, I decided<br />

to go for it. The first thing <strong>the</strong>y<br />

make you do after you decide to<br />

sign your life away on a release<br />

form, is step on a scale. Your<br />

weight is <strong>the</strong>n carefully measured<br />

and written on your hand for<br />

<strong>the</strong> entire world to see. So if you<br />

enjoy jumping <strong>of</strong>f high platforms,<br />

but <strong>the</strong> mere display <strong>of</strong> your<br />

weight is unbearable, well, sorry,<br />

bungy jumping just isn’t for you.<br />

Next comes <strong>the</strong> harnessing<br />

phase. The staff weigh you one<br />

more time to be extra sure you<br />

didn’t cheat <strong>the</strong> first time and<br />

fit you into a simple sit string<br />

harness. Once strapped in, you’re<br />

led to <strong>the</strong> elevator, which is really<br />

a little box with a motor attached<br />

to it. The elevator is actually an<br />

adventure in itself, in <strong>the</strong> form<br />

<strong>of</strong> a tiny electric dynamo that<br />

powers what is essentially an<br />

oversized Tupperware container.<br />

Once started, you’re propelled at<br />

about <strong>the</strong> same speed as bamboo<br />

growing. The little human container<br />

rattles and shakes on what seems<br />

like a laborious effort <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> engine.<br />

POCKETA - POCKETA -POCKETA<br />

- POCKETA is all you hear as you<br />

slowly ascend.<br />

Once you finally reach <strong>the</strong><br />

pinnacle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mighty bungy<br />

tower, <strong>the</strong> view is absolutely<br />

stunning. You automatically<br />

become <strong>the</strong> highest point in<br />

<strong>the</strong> area and everything looks<br />

miniscule. It might be worth<br />

checking out AJ Hackett for <strong>the</strong><br />

view alone. Be warned though,<br />

<strong>the</strong> tower sways with every gust<br />

<strong>of</strong> wind. It feels like you’re on<br />

a boat when <strong>the</strong> wind is gently<br />

blowing. In most situations, this<br />

is fine, but when you’re that high<br />

<strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> ground and you’re on a<br />

swaying bundle <strong>of</strong> telephone<br />

poles held toge<strong>the</strong>r with bolts,<br />

it can feel a little disconcerting.<br />

Every little puff <strong>of</strong> air and <strong>the</strong><br />

tower slowly teeters.<br />

As you approach <strong>the</strong><br />

platform where <strong>the</strong>y rig <strong>the</strong><br />

cord onto your legs, <strong>the</strong>y weigh<br />

you a third time, just in case<br />

you ate a cheeseburger on <strong>the</strong><br />

elevator, before strapping you<br />

in. Ordinarily, this should be <strong>the</strong><br />

scariest part, but <strong>the</strong> crew that<br />

works <strong>the</strong> ropes and <strong>the</strong> rigging<br />

is absolutely pr<strong>of</strong>essional. They<br />

reminded me <strong>of</strong> a championship<br />

yacht team, working seamlessly<br />

and coordinating <strong>the</strong>ir efforts<br />

with what seemed like flawless<br />

accuracy. Every man had a job,<br />

and <strong>the</strong>ir meticulous efforts were<br />

extremely reassuring.<br />

The minute you hop onto <strong>the</strong><br />

plank and look down, everything I<br />

just talked about disappears from<br />

your consciousness. The bungy<br />

cord dangles and gravity helps it<br />

pull you closer to <strong>the</strong> edge with<br />

every feeble hop your wobbly<br />

knees can manage. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>


iggers starts to count down and<br />

all you can see is how unsurvivable<br />

this looks and all you can feel is<br />

<strong>the</strong> rope tugging on your ankles.<br />

Maybe it was to speed things<br />

along, or perhaps it was so I<br />

wouldn’t seem like a total coward<br />

to <strong>the</strong> crowd below, but I definitely<br />

felt a slight push to help start my<br />

plummet to <strong>the</strong> ground below.<br />

The sensation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> initial<br />

freefall is indescribable, but time<br />

definitely feels like its slowing<br />

down as adrenaline sharpens<br />

your sense and splash, you hit<br />

<strong>the</strong> water. The sensation <strong>of</strong><br />

being yanked up as <strong>the</strong> cord<br />

contracts feels just as awkwardly<br />

remarkable. Gravity seems to<br />

reverse itself and you’re hurled<br />

into <strong>the</strong> sky. A few more ups and<br />

downs, and you’re sitting on a<br />

mat, on dear earth, completely<br />

breathless and dumbfounded. The<br />

sheer excitement <strong>of</strong> it all seems<br />

to act as a gag to <strong>the</strong> legible mind.<br />

I signed up for <strong>the</strong> “ride <strong>the</strong><br />

motorbike <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> bungy tower<br />

package.” With that, I did a<br />

harness jump where I tried flips,<br />

rode a bicycle <strong>of</strong>f and finally a<br />

motorbike <strong>of</strong>f a ramp. If you want<br />

to know how those went, well, I’m<br />

out <strong>of</strong> words so you’ll have to try<br />

it yourself. •<br />

Double Six Club,<br />

Jl. Arjuna, T: 0361 73 1144,<br />

www.ajhackett.com<br />

61


expressions<br />

a stroke<br />

<strong>of</strong> zeitgeist<br />

political turmoil and affairs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> state have<br />

always had an effect on a nation’s artistic<br />

movement, sometimes creating a whole genre <strong>of</strong><br />

art in <strong>the</strong> process and also artistic martyrdom<br />

text bruce w carpenter images courtesy <strong>of</strong> ganesha gallery and museum pasifika<br />

After rising to prominence in <strong>the</strong> year leading up to and<br />

following <strong>the</strong> resignation <strong>of</strong> General Suharto as president in<br />

1998, politics in art have become somewhat passé on today’s<br />

Indonesian art scene. It is perhaps a sign <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> times – <strong>the</strong><br />

combination <strong>of</strong> post-modern malaise and growing<br />

cynicism after ten years <strong>of</strong> ho-hum reform. Many contemporary<br />

artists seem to be gripped by angst and alienation as canvasses<br />

frequently become graffitied walls for channelling subliminal<br />

scribbles. In particular, <strong>the</strong> scratching <strong>of</strong> words and phrases – <strong>of</strong>ten<br />

meaningless or those that have been erased – is a definite trend. The<br />

best give insight into <strong>the</strong> message, or humour, whereas <strong>the</strong> worst<br />

are like bad captions for a second rate comic strip.<br />

Indeed, contemporary artists are struggling for meaning but<br />

times are hard, original ideas scarce and competition stiff. During<br />

many historical periods in Indonesian history, politics rejuvenated<br />

<strong>the</strong> art scene and gave meaning. While precedents – such as 19th<br />

century shadow puppets depicting colonial <strong>of</strong>ficials as bug-eyed,<br />

bad-mannered, evil buffoons – <strong>of</strong> underground politics exist, <strong>the</strong><br />

first political statement came in 1938 when <strong>the</strong> founders <strong>of</strong> Persagi,<br />

Indonesia’s first modern art movement, issued a manifesto that<br />

rebelled against <strong>the</strong> system by attacking effete colonial aes<strong>the</strong>tics.<br />

In particular, <strong>the</strong>y denounced idealised tropical landscapes with<br />

tumbling rice fields and smoking volcanoes in <strong>the</strong> distance. So, too,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y detested idyllic images <strong>of</strong> happy natives, which <strong>the</strong>y felt were<br />

“detached” from reality. Three <strong>of</strong> Persagi’s key members – Affandi,<br />

Hendra Gunawan and S Sudjojono – are now <strong>the</strong> nation’s most<br />

famous early modern artists.<br />

In comparison to <strong>the</strong> early nationalistic, expressionist paintings<br />

<strong>of</strong> this old master trio, <strong>the</strong> challenges facing Em Sumba, a talented<br />

painter from Lampung, Sumatra, and Ketut Teja <strong>of</strong> Denpasar, Bali, who<br />

just exhibited toge<strong>the</strong>r at Ganesha Gallery, are formidable. They also<br />

illustrate two related but radically different solutions.<br />

Astawa, who once did more cutting-edge stylised images, has turned<br />

to <strong>the</strong> traditional school <strong>of</strong> Balinese shadow puppet paintings. It is all<br />

an illusion, <strong>of</strong> course, because <strong>the</strong> figures in his colourful <strong>of</strong>fbeat images<br />

more resemble Pac-Man from early video games than Balinese heroes. In<br />

62<br />

not to miss!<br />

To feast your eyes on historical art pieces,<br />

visit Museum Pasifika in Nusa Dua Complex<br />

(T: 0361, www.museum-pasifika.com), which<br />

recently launched a landmark exhibition <strong>of</strong><br />

Indonesian textiles – <strong>the</strong> first ever in Bali –<br />

assembled by Swiss art expert and curator,<br />

Georges Breguet. Its highlights include a<br />

sarong woven by Ni Polak, <strong>the</strong> beautiful<br />

dancer wife <strong>of</strong> Adrian Le Mayeur. Certainly <strong>the</strong><br />

most impressive <strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong> textiles is a huge<br />

ritual ikat blanket from <strong>the</strong> Toraja people <strong>of</strong><br />

Sulawesi. The swirling geometric designs in<br />

red, blue and black can be traced back to <strong>the</strong><br />

Indonesian Bronze Age.<br />

Pasifika has also been very active in<br />

acquiring new acquisitions for its permanent<br />

collection. These include two important oil<br />

paintings from<br />

Theo Meier. One <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>m is a touching<br />

portrait <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Swiss playboy<br />

artist’s seductive<br />

wife. There is also<br />

a portrait <strong>of</strong> Theo<br />

Meier and his<br />

close friend Ernst<br />

Slager made by<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> scions<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> now largely<br />

forgotten Sanur<br />

School <strong>of</strong> Balinese<br />

painting, Ida Bagus<br />

Nyoman Rai. This<br />

piece, formerly in<br />

<strong>the</strong> collection <strong>of</strong><br />

Arendt de Roever,<br />

joins a series <strong>of</strong><br />

o<strong>the</strong>r paintings made by this remarkable artist<br />

before <strong>the</strong> Second World War. It is notable<br />

for its naïve, spontaneous style that functions<br />

as a time capsule, allowing us to see pre-war<br />

expatriates through <strong>the</strong> eyes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Balinese at<br />

<strong>the</strong> time. The sight, needless to say, is ra<strong>the</strong>r<br />

surrealistic and, in contrast to expatriate<br />

portraits <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Balinese, not at all romantic.


this page<br />

his piece titled Heading for <strong>the</strong> Shore, we see a<br />

“king creation” by<br />

score <strong>of</strong> heads bobbing in <strong>the</strong> waves as fish frolic<br />

ketut teja astawa<br />

around <strong>the</strong>m. The shore is a ra<strong>the</strong>r ominous brick<br />

wall. In o<strong>the</strong>r paintings that imitate traditional<br />

calendars used for determining good and bad<br />

days, <strong>the</strong>re is plenty <strong>of</strong> writing that Astawa<br />

describes as nonsensical.<br />

In contrast, Sumba has moved into a shadow world that is reminiscent <strong>of</strong><br />

Plato’s “Allegory <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Cave”. In one <strong>of</strong> his most subtle pieces, Art Reflection,<br />

we see a shadow <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> numeral four transformed to a chair against a multilayered<br />

grey background. He explains that it is a play between ma<strong>the</strong>matics<br />

and visual illusion. So, too, <strong>the</strong> surfaces <strong>of</strong> his canvasses are full <strong>of</strong> scribbles<br />

seen in his painting Live Circuit, in which a yellow figure jogs into <strong>the</strong> future.<br />

The Swing, with a large doe-eyed man with a big head and small body caught<br />

on a torturous looking piece <strong>of</strong> gym equipment.<br />

Politics and art reached a frenzied pitch during <strong>the</strong> last years <strong>of</strong><br />

President Sukarno’s reign when <strong>the</strong> increasingly powerful and leftist<br />

artists’ union LEKRA pushed <strong>the</strong> idea that all art should serve <strong>the</strong> class<br />

struggle against imperialism and capitalism. After <strong>the</strong> alleged communist<br />

coup attempt in 1965, many <strong>of</strong> LEKRA’s members were executed or<br />

jailed without trial for years. Even when <strong>the</strong>y were released years later,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y and <strong>the</strong>ir children were forbidden to paint to join society. Not<br />

surprisingly, most artists returned to <strong>the</strong> colonial habit <strong>of</strong> painting cliché,<br />

pretty pictures <strong>of</strong> wayang puppets, dancers and happy natives. Basuki<br />

Abullah, <strong>the</strong> favourite portraitist <strong>of</strong> Sukarno, adjusted to <strong>the</strong> times and<br />

churned out huge cliché canvasses <strong>of</strong> scantily dressed buxom damsels<br />

illustrating mythological stories such as Joko Tarub.<br />

All this would end in 1997 in <strong>the</strong> lead up to <strong>the</strong> fall <strong>of</strong> Suharto, when<br />

art served as a mighty weapon in political struggle for democracy and<br />

freedom. Today we are once again in a fallow period <strong>of</strong> sometimes-mild<br />

social criticism but not much more. All this proves that <strong>the</strong> first president<br />

Sukarno well understood not only <strong>the</strong> inspirational value <strong>of</strong> art, but also<br />

its importance in forming a national identity.<br />

While politics may be temporarily submerged, it could easily break out<br />

without notice, especially in defence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> environment and – as we saw<br />

in <strong>the</strong> reaction to <strong>the</strong> Anti-Pornography Law – freedom <strong>of</strong> expression. •<br />

63


counter culture<br />

64


punk not<br />

dead<br />

subcultures and underground scenes are what make a city<br />

interesting, as <strong>the</strong>y create <strong>the</strong> unique vibe <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> city’s<br />

personality. bali’s punk scene is an evident display <strong>of</strong> this;<br />

an identity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> area’s distinct attitude<br />

text peter stephenson image photolibrary<br />

For most short-term visitors, music in<br />

Bali comes in two basic forms: <strong>the</strong><br />

traditional gamelan-based music<br />

<strong>of</strong> temple ceremonies and dance<br />

performances, and <strong>the</strong> club music played in <strong>the</strong><br />

nightspots. If pressed, most would admit <strong>the</strong><br />

likelihood <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r types <strong>of</strong> music meant for<br />

local consumption. However, in general, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

remain strangely oblivious to <strong>the</strong>m and ignorant<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> expansive popular music scenes that fill<br />

venues and <strong>the</strong> media across Indonesia.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> liveliest and most visible subcultures<br />

in Bali is punk: a free-ranging form under<br />

<strong>the</strong> broad umbrella <strong>of</strong> a musical “underground”<br />

that includes metal, hardcore and o<strong>the</strong>r genres<br />

whose relationship to <strong>the</strong> mainstream ranges<br />

from antagonistic to ambivalent. Punk’s most<br />

defining characteristic could be its preference<br />

for raw energy over sheer prowess, but more<br />

importantly, punk – as with o<strong>the</strong>r branches <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> underground – is a way <strong>of</strong> doing things.<br />

From <strong>the</strong> rockabilly grind <strong>of</strong> Suicidal Sinatra,<br />

to <strong>the</strong> garage jangle <strong>of</strong> De Buntu, and <strong>the</strong><br />

grunge and psychedelic Navicula, punk in Bali<br />

has developed its own local characteristics and<br />

sets <strong>of</strong> musical influences while remaining true<br />

to <strong>the</strong> genre’s high decibel DIY and custom<br />

culture ethos. What most casual listeners fail to<br />

appreciate is that although punk, like rap and<br />

reggae, bears <strong>the</strong> distinct traces <strong>of</strong> its distant<br />

origins, it is globally meaningful because <strong>of</strong><br />

its ability to mutate and adapt to diverse local<br />

conditions. Punk in Bali has also maintained its<br />

capacity for social and cultural critique, and,<br />

to some extent, this means engaging critically<br />

with tourism and its pressures at <strong>the</strong> same time<br />

seizing any opportunities for cross-cultural<br />

exchange <strong>of</strong>fered.<br />

Inarguably, Bali’s best known Punk<br />

ambassadors are Bobby Kool, Eka Rock and<br />

Jerinx, <strong>the</strong> highly motivated members <strong>of</strong> trio<br />

Superman is Dead (SID), who have ploughed<br />

<strong>the</strong> fruits <strong>of</strong> success back to <strong>the</strong>ir roots in Kuta,<br />

establishing a recording studio, Electrohell<br />

Audio, and <strong>the</strong> live music venue Twice Bar in<br />

Poppies Lane 2, where local punk acts and<br />

exponents <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r connected sub-genres thrash<br />

it out mainly for local audiences but increasingly<br />

for visiting fans and handfuls <strong>of</strong> intrepid tourists.<br />

SID have amassed a large and loyal cadre <strong>of</strong><br />

fans throughout Indonesia and beyond, known<br />

collectively as “outSIDers”.<br />

Since <strong>the</strong> early success <strong>of</strong> SID, a swarm<br />

<strong>of</strong> punk-fed bands have formed, deformed,<br />

merged and multiplied, each one exploring<br />

new avenues and <strong>the</strong> occasional dead end. Part<br />

<strong>of</strong> this ongoing process has been its dialogue<br />

with developments in punk and related music<br />

taking place in o<strong>the</strong>r parts <strong>of</strong> Indonesia, and<br />

<strong>the</strong> exploration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> nation’s own musical<br />

archives with some musicians claiming<br />

influence from groups such as Dara Puspita (an<br />

all-girl garage band from 1960s Surabaya) and<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r antecedents from <strong>the</strong> Indonesian rock<br />

underground. This may represent a move away<br />

from an earlier devotion to <strong>the</strong> market-friendly<br />

end <strong>of</strong> pop-punk via international acts like Green<br />

Day and The Living End who continue to rank<br />

highly in bands’ lists <strong>of</strong> primary influence.<br />

These shifts no doubt owe something to <strong>the</strong><br />

popularity and expansion <strong>of</strong> music networks like<br />

MTV in <strong>the</strong> region since <strong>the</strong> early 1990s. On top<br />

<strong>of</strong> that it has also been helped by its more recent<br />

splintering into MTV Asia and MTV Indonesia,<br />

which have increasingly championed homegrown<br />

products alongside <strong>the</strong> latest sounds from<br />

<strong>the</strong> region and beyond.<br />

In 2003, SID won <strong>the</strong> MTV Asia Best New<br />

Artist Award for <strong>the</strong>ir album “Kuta Rock City”,<br />

an accolade that helped widen <strong>the</strong>ir audience<br />

and led indirectly to <strong>the</strong>ir recording contract<br />

with Sony BMG. Of course, an issue for any<br />

band seeking broader success on international<br />

labels is language. Perhaps for this reason, SID<br />

chooses to sing mainly in English. Local act Lolot<br />

on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, ano<strong>the</strong>r punk trio roughly<br />

contemporaneous with SID, has achieved<br />

national success despite <strong>the</strong>ir preference for<br />

singing in Balinese.<br />

The fashion aes<strong>the</strong>tics <strong>of</strong> punk can hardly be<br />

ignored or dismissed as superficial trappings.<br />

SID’s own associations with customised lowrider<br />

bikes, tattoos and T-shirts vivid with oldschool<br />

motifs <strong>of</strong> sugar skulls and crossed pistons,<br />

dice, swallows, and bleeding hearts cleaved<br />

with daggers have led to <strong>the</strong> establishment – in<br />

connection with <strong>the</strong> recording studio and bar<br />

– <strong>of</strong> a tattoo parlour, and a consignment shop<br />

specialising in SID and Electrohell merchandise<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r clothing labels associated with <strong>the</strong><br />

punk, skater and low-rider scenes.<br />

There are a number <strong>of</strong> venues that regularly<br />

feature local punk acts. Hard Rock Café (Jl.<br />

Pantai Kuta), Twice Bar (Poppies Lane 2), and<br />

Waroeng Obey (Jl. Sudirman, no. 7, Denpasar)<br />

are good places to start. People interested in<br />

exploring Bali’s underground in more detail are<br />

encouraged to read Emma Baulch’s “Making<br />

Scenes: Reggae, Punk and Death Metal in<br />

1990s Bali” (2007). Ano<strong>the</strong>r writer currently<br />

researching <strong>the</strong> field is doctoral student<br />

Rebekah Moore – check out her blog. •<br />

65


environment<br />

no taste for waste<br />

for years now, it has been a much talked about<br />

phenomenon and should play an important role in<br />

all <strong>of</strong> our lives – recycling; a vital ingenuity that helps<br />

reduce <strong>the</strong> heavy load on mo<strong>the</strong>r nature’s shoulders<br />

text stefanie lily austen image chris le<br />

Although recycling has been<br />

a common practice for most<br />

<strong>of</strong> human history, <strong>the</strong>re are<br />

still too many individuals not<br />

participating in this obvious<br />

alleviation for <strong>the</strong> environment. Perhaps that<br />

deficiency is due to complicated guidelines or<br />

a mere lack <strong>of</strong> understanding.<br />

The key to everything is to keep matters<br />

simple and to put first things first. With that<br />

in mind, you might want to ask yourself what<br />

recycling really is. Wikipedia describes it as “<strong>the</strong><br />

processing <strong>of</strong> used materials into new products<br />

66<br />

in order to prevent waste <strong>of</strong> potentially useful<br />

materials, reduce <strong>the</strong> consumption <strong>of</strong> fresh raw<br />

materials, reduce energy usage, reduce air and<br />

water pollution, and create lower greenhouse<br />

gas emissions”.<br />

Recycling plays a crucial role in modern waste<br />

reduction and is also <strong>the</strong> third component <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

“R Waste Hierarchy” – reduce, reuse, recycle.<br />

Understanding what it means leads to<br />

step number two – how to recycle. There are<br />

tons <strong>of</strong> websites that can help you out with<br />

that. Visit realsimple.com/home-organizing or<br />

resourcefulschools.org, for example, for practical<br />

information on recycling just<br />

about any object.<br />

You can also contact Padma<br />

Resort Bali at Legian, as it has<br />

become quite an authority<br />

when it comes to responsible<br />

waste disposal. The stunning<br />

resort was recently awarded a<br />

certificate <strong>of</strong> recognition by a<br />

locally based recycling initiative,<br />

ecoBali Recycling. Padma Resort<br />

Bali and ecoBali Recycling joined<br />

forces in order to establish<br />

an environmental awareness<br />

programme on <strong>the</strong> island,<br />

primarily focusing on sustainable<br />

solutions for waste management.<br />

The project has been operational<br />

for several years and is endorsed<br />

by <strong>the</strong> Bali Hotel Association.<br />

To learn absolutely everything<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is to know about recycling<br />

and <strong>the</strong> environment, you<br />

might want to get in touch with<br />

Temesi Compost. As a result <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> escalating waste pollution<br />

in Bali, <strong>the</strong> Gianyar Waste<br />

Recovery Project was launched;<br />

its objective being: to research<br />

and develop an environmentally<br />

friendly, safe and economically<br />

feasible solution to waste<br />

management for <strong>the</strong> entire<br />

regency <strong>of</strong> Gianyar. With <strong>the</strong><br />

initiating help <strong>of</strong> Rotary Club <strong>of</strong><br />

Bali Ubud, and partnering with<br />

GUS (Yayasan Gelombang Udara<br />

Segar – meaning “Wave <strong>of</strong> Fresh Air”), <strong>the</strong><br />

community <strong>of</strong> Temesi in East Bali implemented<br />

this project through a community-based<br />

programme to alleviate poverty and create a<br />

new kind <strong>of</strong> awareness.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> Temesi Compost’s main goals is to<br />

restore <strong>the</strong> beautiful, healthy and comfortable<br />

environment <strong>of</strong> Bali <strong>of</strong> old. At <strong>the</strong> organisation’s<br />

Education Centre and Waste Recovery Facility,<br />

visitors can go on a guided trip around <strong>the</strong><br />

property and learn about <strong>the</strong> Temesi compostmaking<br />

process, its positive effects, and about<br />

<strong>the</strong> environment in general through interesting<br />

and motivating tours. A highly educational treat<br />

for both young and old! •<br />

Padma Resort Bali at Legian<br />

T: 0361 752 111, padmahotels.com<br />

Temesi Compost<br />

T: 0361 743 8083, temesirecycling.org


helping hands<br />

It was when KU DE TA<br />

founder and CEO Arthur<br />

Chondros was approached<br />

to take charge <strong>of</strong> an event<br />

in order to raise funds for Bali’s<br />

underprivileged rural communities<br />

in 2003, in which, for <strong>the</strong> last<br />

few decades, tremendous<br />

environmental and economic<br />

challenges have been on <strong>the</strong><br />

forefront. His reputation <strong>of</strong> being<br />

somewhat <strong>of</strong> a humanitarian<br />

socialite explains why he jumped<br />

aboard without hesitation and<br />

helped fur<strong>the</strong>r establish <strong>the</strong> I’m An<br />

Angel (IAA) charity foundation.<br />

For seven years now, KU<br />

DE TA has hosted a yearly Gala<br />

Charity Event and has helped<br />

raise more than US$ 500,000 as<br />

to empower villagers and improve<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir standard <strong>of</strong> living in <strong>the</strong> face<br />

<strong>of</strong> resource scarcity and socio-<br />

68<br />

economic pressure.<br />

The next fundraiser<br />

is scheduled for<br />

July 31st – featuring<br />

Ash Chandler (who<br />

hails from Bombay), a typically<br />

sumptuous KU DE TA five-course<br />

meal, and much more – so don’t<br />

break open your secret money jar<br />

just yet. Instead <strong>of</strong> spending your<br />

hard-earned cash on appealing<br />

summer bargains, partner up<br />

with KU DE TA and help support<br />

I’m An Angel in sponsoring<br />

activities from healthcare to<br />

hygiene, infrastructure building<br />

and education to creating<br />

environmental awareness and<br />

individual empowerment. It is<br />

worth every penny!<br />

I’m An Angel’s “spiritual being”<br />

in charge is <strong>the</strong> admirable Mrs<br />

Asana Viebeke Lengkong. She<br />

calling<br />

all angels<br />

“all was taken away from you:<br />

white dresses, wings, even existence.<br />

yet I believe you, messengers.”<br />

– quoted from “on angels” –CZESLAW MILOSZ<br />

text stefanie lily austen images courtesy <strong>of</strong> ku de ta<br />

and her team <strong>of</strong><br />

tireless philanthropists have made<br />

it <strong>the</strong>ir number-one priority to allot<br />

funds and identify <strong>the</strong> most urgent<br />

communal and individual needs<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rural Balinese. The inspiring<br />

lady has become quite known for<br />

her words: “We do not give. We<br />

share. And with this strategy, we<br />

empower <strong>the</strong> community to think<br />

and help <strong>the</strong>mselves.”<br />

Last year’s I’m An Angel charity<br />

event at KU DE TA is said to have<br />

been <strong>the</strong> best yet, with celebrity<br />

guests such as Australian singer/<br />

songwriter/actress Delta Goodrem<br />

and fiancé Brian McFadden (ex-<br />

Westlife member), and leading man<br />

in <strong>the</strong> popular TV show “Ready<br />

Steady Cook”, chef Manu Feildel.<br />

KU DE TA’s Arthur Chondros has<br />

delivered every single year when<br />

he daringly promised to raise even<br />

more funds <strong>the</strong> next. Makes you<br />

wonder who will be on <strong>the</strong> guest<br />

list at this year’s event.<br />

Chondros aims to exceed last<br />

year’s US$ 75,000 earned and<br />

raising it to a cool US$ 100,000<br />

this year. His determined and<br />

very competent mind is definitely<br />

not to be underestimated as<br />

<strong>the</strong> raised funds have almost<br />

tripled since 2003. More than<br />

a hundred businessmen and<br />

women, alongside many private<br />

benefactors, come toge<strong>the</strong>r at<br />

KU DE TA for a glamorous night<br />

<strong>of</strong> wining, dining, auctioning, and<br />

some serious boogying, with <strong>the</strong><br />

purpose <strong>of</strong> providing ongoing<br />

support to <strong>the</strong> Balinese for many<br />

years to come.<br />

Make sure you are one <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> lucky ones to be a part <strong>of</strong><br />

this glamorous event and book<br />

a table now! •<br />

For more information on programme<br />

activities and donations, log on to <strong>the</strong><br />

I’m An Angel website imanangel.net


70<br />

BATUR CALDERA<br />

High ridge overlooking a vast<br />

volcanic panorama.<br />

B A L I S E A<br />

TRUNYAN<br />

Bali Aga village on <strong>the</strong><br />

shores <strong>of</strong> Lake Batur.<br />

BEDUGUL<br />

Cool mountain town with markets<br />

bursting with fresh produce. Known<br />

for its scenery, three lakes, <strong>the</strong> important<br />

Ulum Danau Bratan Temple, and<br />

a great golf course set in <strong>the</strong> caldera<br />

<strong>of</strong> an extinct volcano.<br />

MENJANGAN ISLAND<br />

Offshore eco resort and<br />

great wall diving.<br />

SINGARAJA<br />

Nor<strong>the</strong>rn capital and first<br />

Dutch port in Bali. Used to<br />

be Bali’s royal kingdom.<br />

WEST BALI NATIONAL PARK<br />

760 sq km <strong>of</strong> preserved natural<br />

environment. Home <strong>of</strong> Bali Rothschild<br />

starling as well as deer civets, wild<br />

buffalo and monkeys.<br />

KINTAMANI<br />

This roadside mountain village<br />

<strong>of</strong>fers sweeping views over <strong>the</strong><br />

Batur volcano lake. It has <strong>the</strong><br />

coolest climate on <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

PEMUTERAN<br />

Untouched black sand beaches with<br />

a few high-end accommodations.<br />

Great diving too.<br />

GUNUNG AGUNG<br />

The most sacred mountain on <strong>the</strong> island<br />

and is seen as <strong>the</strong> “overseer” <strong>of</strong> Bali. The<br />

ascent to <strong>the</strong> peak is stunning in early<br />

dry season morning but is <strong>of</strong>f limits in<br />

<strong>the</strong> wet season. Do not attempt to<br />

scale Agung without a knowledgeable<br />

and trustworthy guide.<br />

PURA BEJI<br />

LOVINA BEACH<br />

The beach to spot dolphins in <strong>the</strong><br />

bay during <strong>the</strong> break <strong>of</strong> dawn.<br />

GUNUNG PRAPAT<br />

AGUNG<br />

Ferry to<br />

Java<br />

PURA PULAKI,<br />

PURA MELANTING<br />

GILIMANUK<br />

A small port town<br />

to crossover to<br />

Java by ferry.<br />

GUNUNG BATUR<br />

GUNUNG MERBUK<br />

LAKE BUYAN<br />

TULAMBEN<br />

Black, rocky beach with <strong>the</strong> famous<br />

USS Liberty shipwreck dive site.<br />

PURA BATUR<br />

LAKE BATUR<br />

LAKE TAMBLINGAN<br />

GUNUNG MUSI<br />

GUNUNG SANGLANG<br />

LAKE BRATAN<br />

AMED<br />

Remote series <strong>of</strong> fishing villages with<br />

spectacular diving, great snorkelling<br />

and a quiet, relaxing atmosphere.<br />

GUNUNG MESEHE<br />

BEDUGUL<br />

BESAKIH<br />

Bali’s majestic mo<strong>the</strong>r temple located on<br />

<strong>the</strong> slopes <strong>of</strong> Gunung Agung. This site<br />

is host to <strong>the</strong> island’s most important<br />

ceremonies and festivals.<br />

GUNUNG BATUKARU<br />

Ferry to<br />

Java<br />

PURA BESAKIH<br />

NEGARA<br />

Bali’s wild west with <strong>the</strong> best<br />

bull races. Predominantly<br />

Muslim area in Bali.<br />

PURA LUHUR<br />

BATUKARU<br />

PURA RAMBUT<br />

SIWI<br />

GUNUNG LEMPUYANG<br />

PURA GEDE<br />

PRANCAK<br />

PURA LEMPUYANG<br />

MEDEWI<br />

Known among <strong>the</strong> surfing community for<br />

UJUNG<br />

Just outside Amlapura is <strong>the</strong> beautiful<br />

restored water palace <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kings <strong>of</strong><br />

Karangasem called Tirta Gangga.<br />

its great surf and spectacular scenery.<br />

TENGANAN<br />

Ancient and traditional village, famous<br />

for <strong>the</strong>ir double ikat weavings, textile<br />

shops and <strong>the</strong> native habitants.<br />

JATILUWUH<br />

Amazing panoramas on <strong>the</strong><br />

slopes <strong>of</strong> Mount Batukaru<br />

with views over <strong>the</strong> whole<br />

<strong>of</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn Bali.<br />

TABANAN<br />

Capital <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> Bali’s most prosperous regions<br />

and centre <strong>of</strong> a huge rice growing industry.<br />

CANDIDASA<br />

East coast beach area with beautiful<br />

resorts and hinterlands and also <strong>the</strong><br />

famous Virgin Beach.<br />

GOA GAJAH<br />

DENPASAR<br />

Bali’s capital city, and most important. A<br />

hectic rush <strong>of</strong> traffic, shops, one-way streets<br />

and Government <strong>of</strong>fices. Lots to discover<br />

but take a guide or, at least, a driver.<br />

PADANG BAI<br />

Fishing village, small resort, public<br />

ferries to Lombok. The important<br />

and ancient sea temple, Silayukti<br />

sits atop a high headland overlooking<br />

<strong>the</strong> Lombok Straits.<br />

KUSAMBA<br />

Small east coast fishing village famous<br />

for salt making, fish satay and<br />

th holy bat caves called Goa Lawar.<br />

PURA TANAH LOT<br />

TANAH LOT<br />

The most famous <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea temples dotted<br />

along Bali’s south coast. This 18th century<br />

sanctuary is a very popular sunset spot.<br />

KEROBOKAN<br />

KLUNGKUNG<br />

Old royal city <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> east famous for<br />

Klungklung-style painting and Kerta<br />

Gosa - The Hall <strong>of</strong> Justice - <strong>the</strong> only<br />

part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old palace still intact.<br />

BATU BELIG<br />

CANGGU<br />

Just beyond <strong>the</strong> far end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tourist strip,<br />

<strong>the</strong> wild surf, classy hotels and <strong>the</strong> used-to-be<br />

deserted beaches make for a good escape.<br />

GIANYAR<br />

Regency Capital famous for<br />

<strong>the</strong> best babi guling (roast<br />

suckling pig) on <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

SEMINYAK<br />

Super stylish haven for <strong>the</strong> well-to-do jet set types.<br />

Home to some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best bars and restaurants in Bali.<br />

NUSA LEMBONGAN<br />

White sand beaches and reef surf<br />

with nice hotels. This small island<br />

is popular as a day boat trip.<br />

RENON<br />

UBUD<br />

Bali’s royal cityis home to<br />

a melting pot <strong>of</strong> creative<br />

and bohemian inhabitants<br />

from around <strong>the</strong><br />

world. Streets are lined<br />

up with art galleries, restaurants<br />

and some good<br />

boutique shopping.<br />

LEGIAN<br />

Upmarket continuation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Kuta area and <strong>the</strong><br />

former “it” area that’s getting older. Traffic jams,<br />

noisy clubs and dusty streets are <strong>the</strong> norm here.<br />

SERANGAN<br />

ISLAND<br />

KUTA<br />

With a beach stretching from Tuban to Canggu, Kuta is<br />

Bali’s prime tourist area with an abundance <strong>of</strong> shopping,<br />

fashion, food, entertainment and great surf for beginners.<br />

Super crowded during high season.<br />

LOMBOK STRAIT<br />

NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT<br />

JIMBARAN<br />

Beautiful curving beach famous for some <strong>of</strong> Bali’s<br />

best hotels and fresh beachside seafood eating.<br />

SANUR<br />

Charming, low-key with a<br />

reef-protected beach, great<br />

restaurants and a relaxed,<br />

homey atmosphere.<br />

NUSA CENINGAN<br />

Small sister island to<br />

Lembongan joined by<br />

a narrow bridge.<br />

NUSA PENIDA<br />

Remote island with very traditional<br />

culture and spectacular eco diving.<br />

ULUWATU TEMPLE<br />

One <strong>of</strong> Bali’s most important sea temples. The 11th<br />

century temple stands ona tiny promontory 70m<br />

above <strong>the</strong> crashing waves <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Indian Ocean.<br />

TANJUNG BENOA<br />

A charming mix <strong>of</strong> star hotels, water<br />

sports and a village atmosphere.<br />

NUSA DUA<br />

Bali’s most manicured, purpose<br />

oriented tourist enclave. Highly<br />

secured and luxurious hotels<br />

with beautiful beaches.<br />

BUKIT<br />

Dry, with some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />

spectacular sea views and hotels<br />

in Bali. Fast becoming a<br />

“millionaire’s row”.<br />

Bali is a province <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Republic <strong>of</strong> Indonesia<br />

governed by an elected Governor and a local<br />

parliamentary assembly. The provincial capital is<br />

Denpasar where most government <strong>of</strong>fices are<br />

located in <strong>the</strong> Renon area.<br />

Bali is divided into eight regencies: Jembrana,<br />

Buleleng, Bangli, Tabanan, Badung, Gianyar,<br />

Klungkung and Karangasem. Bali is predominantly<br />

Hindu in culture and great respect should be<br />

shown for all festivals, events and ceremonies,<br />

which will most likely be <strong>of</strong> religious significance.<br />

Bali is an island with an area <strong>of</strong> 5700 sq km<br />

and a population <strong>of</strong> around 3.5 million. Most live<br />

and work in <strong>the</strong> increasingly urbanised area <strong>of</strong><br />

Denpasar linking to Sanur, Kuta, Legian and<br />

Jimbaran. Outside those areas , Bali is more <strong>of</strong> an agricultural<br />

island with a system <strong>of</strong> paddy fields and<br />

irrigation established hundreds <strong>of</strong> years ago.<br />

Balinese society is based on <strong>the</strong> pura (temple)<br />

which is <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong> religious, civil, family and<br />

social life with <strong>the</strong> banjar as <strong>the</strong> cohesive centre <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> community. Visitors are advised to show great<br />

respect and patience for all culture and social<br />

systems when in Bali.<br />

PURA LUHUR<br />

ULUWATU<br />

BENOA HARBOUR<br />

The central port for <strong>the</strong> cruising<br />

and diving industry.<br />

INDIAN OCEAN


<strong>the</strong> ultimate<br />

Climax<br />

Jl. Kartika P.O.Box 1055 Tuban, Kuta, Bali - Indonesia 80361<br />

p : +62 361 755676 | f : +62 361 753517<br />

e : info@waterbom-bali.com | w : www.waterbom.com


72<br />

Jl.Tangkuban Perahu<br />

Jl. Batu Belig<br />

Jl. Double Six<br />

to Denpasar<br />

Jl. Nakula<br />

Jl.Kerobokan<br />

Sardine<br />

De Ja Vu<br />

O-CE-N by Outrigger<br />

Zanzibar<br />

Jl. Petitenget<br />

Jl. Legian<br />

Jl. Puri Bagus Teruna<br />

Padma Resort<br />

Bali at Legian<br />

Jl. Merta Nadi<br />

Jl. Padma<br />

LEGIAN<br />

Jl. Kayu Jati<br />

Jl. Sunset Road<br />

Papaya<br />

Jl. Sriwijaya<br />

Jl. Laksamana<br />

Jl. Melasti<br />

Legian Beach Hotel<br />

Sushi Tei<br />

Istana Kuta<br />

Galeria<br />

Jl. Patih Jelantik Bali Bakery<br />

Red Square<br />

Red Sapori<br />

Jl. Sunset Road<br />

Jl.DrupadiJl.Mertasari<br />

Metis<br />

Jemme/Cafe Jemme<br />

Kuta<br />

Silq Villas/ Crispy Pata/<br />

Kembang Goela<br />

Sarong<br />

Taman Merah Spa<br />

Gourmet Cafe<br />

Biku<br />

Corner Store<br />

Red Carpet<br />

Living Room<br />

Hu’u/Nutmegs<br />

Ultimo<br />

Rumours<br />

Earth Cafe<br />

Paul Ropp<br />

Sentosa Villas/<br />

Blossom<br />

Chandi<br />

Kaizan<br />

Cafe Bali<br />

Khaima<br />

Trattoria<br />

The Junction<br />

Grocer & Grind<br />

Mykonos<br />

La Luciola<br />

Dandelion<br />

Samaya/<br />

Breeze<br />

Bamboo Blonde<br />

Religion<br />

Lily Jean<br />

Fresh<br />

Essence Spa<br />

Rip Curl<br />

Paul’s Place<br />

Nero<br />

Carrefour<br />

Jl. Legian<br />

Kama Sutra<br />

The Legian<br />

Bali Shell Museum<br />

Jl. Pantai Kuta<br />

Ku De Ta<br />

KUTA<br />

Kori<br />

Innuendo<br />

The Oberoi<br />

Villa De Daun<br />

By The Sea<br />

Eikon<br />

M Bar Go<br />

Vi Ai Pi<br />

ESC/Sky Garden<br />

Harris Resort<br />

Bali Deli<br />

Jl. Kunti<br />

Warung Itali<br />

Twice Diner<br />

Bale Bali<br />

Sabbatha<br />

La Sal<br />

BIMC<br />

Hospital<br />

Dijon<br />

Rosso Vivo<br />

Maccaroni Club<br />

Uluwatu<br />

Tj’s<br />

The Villas/<br />

Prana Spa<br />

Kanishka Villas<br />

Made’s Warung<br />

Hard Rock Hotel<br />

Hard Rock Cafe<br />

Queen’s Tandoor<br />

to Sanur<br />

The Amala<br />

Mannekepis<br />

Warung Made<br />

Lily Jean<br />

Mall Bali Galeria<br />

JP’s<br />

Jl.Bakung Sari<br />

Jl. Abimanyu<br />

Bahiana<br />

Red Room<br />

Dinda Rella<br />

Gabah<br />

Stadium<br />

Blue Fin<br />

Spa Venus<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak<br />

Galaxy<br />

Ifiori Ristorante<br />

Waterbom Park<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza<br />

Kuta Paradiso Hotel<br />

Ryoshi<br />

Batan Waru<br />

Discovery Mall<br />

Oceans27<br />

Delicious Onion Santa Fe<br />

Obsession<br />

Puravida<br />

Biasa<br />

Discovery Kartika<br />

Plaza Hotel<br />

S<strong>of</strong>itel<br />

Anantara<br />

Kin Khao Restaurant<br />

Queen’s <strong>of</strong> India<br />

Kunyit Bali<br />

Bali Dynasty / Golden Lotus<br />

Hotel Santika Bali<br />

Ramada Bintang Bali<br />

Funky Princess<br />

Gado-Gado<br />

The Rani<br />

SIP<br />

TUBAN<br />

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai<br />

Aston Kuta<br />

Ma Joly<br />

Kupu Kupu Barong<br />

Jl. Kediri<br />

Envy<br />

Jl. Raya Tuban<br />

Holiday Inn Resort<br />

Baruna Bali<br />

Pantarei<br />

Ryoshi<br />

Body & Soul<br />

delMango<br />

The Haven<br />

Syndicate<br />

Double 6<br />

Bacio<br />

Jl. Nakula<br />

Jl.Arjuna/Double Six<br />

De Ja Vu<br />

O-CE-N by Outrigger<br />

Zanzibar<br />

Seminyak<br />

Domestic<br />

Terminal<br />

International<br />

Terminal<br />

to Jimbaran &<br />

Nusa Dua<br />

Ngurah Rai International Airport


The perfect blend <strong>of</strong> traditional elements and contemporary architecture in <strong>the</strong> tropical<br />

Balinese landscaping. The uniqueness in <strong>the</strong> heart <strong>of</strong> Kuta with 19 unit villas featured one, two<br />

and three bedrooms which design exclusively with over sized dining and comfortable living area<br />

look toward to <strong>the</strong> plunge pool and garden. Itís a great choice for a great dynamic lifestyle.<br />

Get <strong>the</strong> great prices during pre- sales session !<br />

PT. May and Lou International<br />

Jl.Tukad Oos 7, Renon, Denpasar, Bali, Indnesia<br />

Tel. 62 361 7911569 Tel/Fax. 62 361 238279<br />

Email. info@maylouhomes.com www.maylouhomes.com<br />

Pre-sales, Dipan Villas Prices:<br />

a. Type 1 BDR US$ 255.000<br />

b. Type 2 BDR US$ 275.000<br />

c. Type 3 BDR US$ 345.000<br />

Property Gallery<br />

Tel. 61 89430 9430 / Fax. 61 89430 9431<br />

231 South Terrace, South Beach, Fremantle<br />

Western Australia 6162<br />

73


74<br />

Nusa Dua<br />

Jimbaran<br />

Tao Bali<br />

Novotel Benoa<br />

The Bali Khama<br />

Jl.Bypass Ngurah Rai<br />

Grand Mirage<br />

Aston Resort /<br />

Giorgio Restaurant<br />

Jl.Uluwatu<br />

The Oasis<br />

The Royal Santrian<br />

Conrad<br />

Keraton<br />

Jimbaran Puri Bali<br />

Kayumanis Jimbaran<br />

Villa Balquisse<br />

InterContinental Bali<br />

Melia Benoa<br />

Jimbaran Seafood<br />

Jenggala<br />

Club Med<br />

Jl.Bypass Ngurah Rai<br />

Karma Jimbaran<br />

Four Seasons<br />

Kayumanis/ Piasan, Tetaring<br />

Nusa Dua Beach<br />

Westin<br />

Jl. Pratama<br />

Gending Kedis<br />

Jl.Bukit Permai<br />

The Laguna<br />

Ayana Resort<br />

and Spa<br />

Melia Bali<br />

Museum Pasifika<br />

Bali Collection<br />

Grand Hyatt Bali<br />

Pantai Mengiat<br />

Novotel Nusa Dua<br />

Pantai Mengiat<br />

Ayodya<br />

Amanusa<br />

Bali Golf &<br />

Country Club<br />

St. Regis<br />

Jl.Nusa Dua Selatan<br />

The Bale<br />

to Karma Kandara and<br />

Alila Villas Uluwatu<br />

to Bvlgari<br />

Nikko Bali Resort


Four Seasons Resort<br />

Kayumanis Private Villas<br />

Ubud<br />

Sanur<br />

SAYAN<br />

The Mansion/Indochine<br />

Jl.Hang Tuah<br />

Museum Le Mayeur<br />

Sector Bar & Restaurant<br />

Sanur Paradise<br />

Plaza<br />

To Naughty Nuri’s,<br />

Kemiri, Mozaic and<br />

Indus<br />

Grand Bali Beach<br />

Bali Beach Golf Course<br />

CAMPUHAN<br />

Blanco Renaissance<br />

Museum<br />

Jl.Danau Buyan Jl.Segara Ayu<br />

Waka Namya Resort<br />

Ibah Luxury Villas<br />

Murni’s Warung<br />

Arena<br />

Sanur Beach Market<br />

Jl.Sindhu<br />

Jl.Tandakan<br />

Jl. Bisma<br />

Jl. Campuhan<br />

Ary’s Warung<br />

C<strong>of</strong>fee & Copper<br />

Macan Tidur<br />

Alamkara<br />

Cafe Wayan<br />

Tama Gallery<br />

Ubud Village Resort<br />

Street Cafe<br />

Monkey Forest<br />

Monkey Forest Road<br />

Jl. Kajeng<br />

Jl. Nyuh Kuning<br />

Bumbu<br />

Bali<br />

Ubud Art Market<br />

Verona<br />

Jl. Dewi Sita<br />

Jl.Danau Tamblingan<br />

Jl. Suweta<br />

Waka Di<br />

Ume<br />

Nomad<br />

Lamak<br />

Bumi Bali<br />

Ubud<br />

Palace<br />

Batan Waru<br />

Three Monkeys<br />

Komaneka<br />

Pundi Pundi<br />

Warung Enak<br />

Pizza Bagus<br />

Jl. Raya Pengosekan<br />

Uluwatu<br />

Jl. Hanoman<br />

Jl. Sandat<br />

Jl. Raya Ubud<br />

Cafe Arma<br />

Siam Sally Dirty Duck<br />

PADANG<br />

TEGAL<br />

Agung Rai<br />

Museum <strong>of</strong> Art<br />

Meng’s<br />

The Village<br />

Cucina Italiana<br />

Jl. Sugriwa<br />

Griya Santrian<br />

Jl. Sandat<br />

Jl. Jebawan<br />

PENGOSEKAN<br />

Jl.Bypass Ngurah Rai<br />

Neka Gallery<br />

Bali Buddha Bar<br />

TAMAN<br />

KLOD<br />

Jl. Jembawan<br />

Jl. Tirta Tawar<br />

Jazz Cafe<br />

TEBESAYA<br />

Agung Rai<br />

Gallery<br />

Jl. Cok Putra<br />

Cafe Batu Jimbar<br />

Jl. TJero Gandung<br />

Pura Dalem Puri<br />

Jl. Peliatan<br />

Ryoshi<br />

The Gangsa Villas<br />

Jl. Seronga<br />

To Elephant<br />

Safari Park<br />

Jl. Raya Andong<br />

Jl.Betngandang 1<br />

Jl. Gunung Sari<br />

PELIATAN<br />

Museum<br />

Rudana<br />

Viceroy<br />

Kamandalu<br />

Telaga<br />

Naga<br />

Jl.Tukad Ayun<br />

To Tony Raka<br />

Gallery<br />

Bali Hyatt<br />

Maya Ubud<br />

Massimo<br />

Blue Eyes<br />

Mezzanine<br />

Puri Santrian<br />

Sanur Beach Hotel<br />

Mercure Resort Sanur<br />

The Cat & Fiddle<br />

Jl.Danau Poso<br />

75


76<br />

destination<br />

wherever.<br />

The Cellardoor, Komplek Dewa Ruci 3<br />

Jl Bypass Ngurah Rai, Kuta Bali, Indonesia<br />

T +62(361) 767-422 F +62(361) 768 418<br />

sales@hattenwines.com<br />

www.hattenwines.com<br />

navigator<br />

DINING<br />

TUBAN/KUTA/LEGIAN<br />

Aromas<br />

Jl. Legian Kelod<br />

T: 0361 751 003<br />

Serving a wide variety <strong>of</strong> hearty<br />

meals, a delight for strict vegans and<br />

<strong>the</strong> ordinarily carnivorous alike.<br />

Bella Rosa Italian Restaurant<br />

Padma Resort Bali at Legian<br />

Jl. Padma no. 1, Legian<br />

T: 0361 752 111<br />

A stylishly appointed restaurant with<br />

aes<strong>the</strong>tic artistry and Italian accents.<br />

Try <strong>the</strong> signature Char Grilled<br />

Australian Chilled Rib Eye Steak with<br />

a side <strong>of</strong> an acoustic guitarist for<br />

a great evening out by <strong>the</strong> Legian<br />

beach.<br />

Bubba Gump Shrimp Co.<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 754 028<br />

Menu dedicated to dishes made <strong>of</strong><br />

shrimp served in a setting decorated<br />

with “Forest Gump” paraphernalia.<br />

Envy<br />

Jl. Wana Segara, no. 33, Tuban<br />

T: 0361 752 527<br />

Serves delicious pastas, sumptuous<br />

steaks and seafood. Their cocktails<br />

are molecular mixtures.<br />

ESC<br />

Jl. Legian, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 756 362<br />

Try <strong>the</strong> American style thick<br />

hotcakes with apple and cinnamon<br />

or blueberries. Brunch, tapas, pizzas<br />

and heaps more. Open 24 hours.<br />

Flying Fish Seafood Restaurant<br />

O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger<br />

Jl. Arjuna no. 88X, Legian<br />

T: 0361 737 400 ext. 7526<br />

Fresh seafood, live teppanyaki bar,<br />

sushi and sashimi, served indoor<br />

and outdoor terrace overlooking <strong>the</strong><br />

Legian beach.<br />

Gabah Restaurant & Bar<br />

Jl. Bakungsari, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 751 864<br />

Au<strong>the</strong>ntic culinary tastes <strong>of</strong> local,<br />

Indonesian and Asian specialties<br />

set in a relaxing, romantic pool view<br />

setting.<br />

Golden Lotus Restaurant<br />

Bali Dynasty Resort<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban<br />

T: 0361 752 403<br />

Offers all <strong>the</strong> favourites including<br />

Peking Duck, spicy Szechuan and<br />

classic Cantonese. Dim Sum <strong>of</strong>fered<br />

daily with Dim Sum lunch buffet<br />

<strong>of</strong>fered on Sundays.<br />

Hard Rock Café<br />

Jl. Pantai Kuta<br />

T: 0361 755 661<br />

This ever popular international<br />

cafe <strong>of</strong>fers great food, poolside<br />

dining and a well stocked bar for<br />

those who choose to dine among a<br />

smorgasbord <strong>of</strong> music memorabilia.<br />

Kafe Batan Waru<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 766 303<br />

Serving up homely Indonesian food<br />

as well as International favourites.<br />

The island’s best eggs Benedict.<br />

Kin Khao<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza no. 170, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 757 808<br />

This well-established au<strong>the</strong>ntic Thai<br />

restaurant serves fresh cuisine that<br />

including aromatic curries, soups<br />

and salads at reasonable prices.<br />

Kori Restaurant & Bar<br />

Poppies Lane II<br />

Jl. Legian, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 758 605<br />

Serves a wide range <strong>of</strong> Western and<br />

Balinese cuisine complemented by<br />

an extensive wine list.<br />

Kunyit Bali<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 759 991<br />

Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Balinese cuisine<br />

in a relaxed setting. Highly<br />

recommended dishes are <strong>the</strong> crispy<br />

fried duck and bebek betutu.<br />

Lais<br />

Legian Beach Hotel<br />

Jl. Melasti, Legian<br />

T: 0361 751 711<br />

Specialises in <strong>the</strong> many traditional<br />

Indonesian foods from <strong>the</strong> across<br />

<strong>the</strong> archipelago.<br />

La Cucina Italian Restaurant<br />

Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 751 067<br />

The name says it all, but if you don’t<br />

speak Italian, it means “<strong>the</strong> Italian<br />

Kitchen Restaurant”.<br />

Maccaroni Club<br />

Jl. Legian no. 52, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 754 662<br />

No nonsense comfort food with<br />

modern décor.<br />

Ma Joly Restaurant & Lounge<br />

Kupu Kupu Barong Beach Resort<br />

Jl. Wana Segara, Tuban<br />

T: 0361 753 780<br />

Superb French fine dining combined<br />

with a unique setting <strong>of</strong>fering<br />

panoramic sea views and sunsets.<br />

Nero Bali Mediterranean<br />

Restaurant & Lounge<br />

Jl. Legian Kelod no. 384, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 750 756<br />

Brilliant Mediterranean dishes and<br />

a wide selection <strong>of</strong> imported wines<br />

in a modern, simple yet exquisite<br />

setting.<br />

Oceans27<br />

Discovery Esplanade (Beach Front)<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 765 027, 755 522<br />

O’ India<br />

Jl. Sunset Barat no. 3, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 847 6818<br />

Au<strong>the</strong>ntic South and North Indian<br />

cuisine in this huge restaurant with<br />

private rooms, open-air dining to <strong>the</strong><br />

rear and ample parking with easy<br />

access.<br />

Queen’s <strong>of</strong> India<br />

Bali Dynasty Resort<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban<br />

T: 0361 752 403<br />

Serves au<strong>the</strong>ntic Indian food. Try<br />

<strong>the</strong> Goa prawns or mutton vindaloo,<br />

kulfi, <strong>the</strong> gulab jamun or <strong>the</strong>ir special<br />

chocolate fudge brownies.<br />

Red Sapori Beachfront Café &<br />

Italian Restaurant<br />

Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana, Lot 3<br />

Jl. Raya Pantai Kuta, Legian<br />

T: 0361 768 245<br />

Ryoshi Japanese Restaurant<br />

Bali Garden Hotel<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 766 302<br />

Bali’s most recognisable purveyor <strong>of</strong><br />

au<strong>the</strong>ntic Sushi and Sashimi. Outlets<br />

in Seminyak, Sanur and Ubud.<br />

Seafood House<br />

Complex Kuta Sidewalk<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 763 900<br />

Cantonese style and Chinese Cuisine<br />

at its finest. Live seafood to be<br />

chosen before a meal, to fur<strong>the</strong>r<br />

accentuate <strong>the</strong>ir “ocean fresh”<br />

concept.<br />

Sushi Tei<br />

Jl. Sunset Road, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 780 7744 / 7288 / 7455<br />

Higher-end sushi destination<br />

complete with sushi train in an<br />

oriental minimalist setting. Try <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

sashimi salad.<br />

Taman Ayun Café & Lounge<br />

Padma Resort Bali at Legian<br />

Jl. Padma no. 1, Legian<br />

T: 0361 752 111<br />

Savour Indonesian and Continental<br />

cuisine amid refreshing environment<br />

with a laidback ambience.<br />

Tenkai Japanese Restaurant<br />

Padma Resort Bali at Legian<br />

Jl. Padma no. 1, Legian<br />

T: 0361 752 111<br />

Serves an extensive menu <strong>of</strong><br />

au<strong>the</strong>ntic Japanese cuisine in a<br />

minimalist garden setting.<br />

The Tenku Japanese Restaurant<br />

Jl. H. Juanda<br />

T: 0361 751 161<br />

Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Japanese cuisine in a<br />

beachfront setting. Japanese dinner<br />

buffet <strong>of</strong>fered on Thursday nights.<br />

Try <strong>the</strong> teppanyaki wagyu set.


TAO Beach House Restaurant<br />

Ramada Resort Camakila<br />

Jl. Pura Bagus Teruna, Legian<br />

T: 0361 752 877<br />

A beautifully decorated restaurant<br />

overlooking <strong>the</strong> ocean and serving<br />

delectable Thai fare.<br />

TJ’s<br />

Poppies Lane I, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 751 093<br />

A long time Kuta landmark, TJ’s<br />

has been serving up tasty Mexican<br />

cuisine and margaritas since <strong>the</strong><br />

dawn <strong>of</strong> time in its tranquil indoor<br />

garden setting.<br />

Warung Made<br />

Jl. Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 755 297<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 732 130<br />

A Kuta institution. Always jammed<br />

to <strong>the</strong> rafters. Offers a winning<br />

combination <strong>of</strong> good food, value for<br />

money and stylish décor.<br />

Zanzibar<br />

Jl. Arjuna, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 733 529<br />

Great Mediterranean food that will<br />

satiate <strong>the</strong> upper-class beach bum.<br />

Overlooks <strong>the</strong> multiple umbrellas <strong>of</strong><br />

double six beach.<br />

SEMINYAK/<br />

KEROBOKAN<br />

Art Café<br />

JL Saridewi 17<br />

T: 736751<br />

Art space that showcases both local<br />

and international art with exquisite<br />

cuisine that contains a broad palate<br />

and an all-day breakfast<br />

Bale Bali<br />

Jl. Kunti no. 4BB<br />

T: 0361 732 731<br />

Chinese food, vegetarian food, and<br />

noodles <strong>of</strong> all kinds with a unique<br />

atmosphere are touted to be this<br />

warung’s specialty.<br />

Bambuku<br />

Jl. Sunset no. 98<br />

T: 0859 3535 1589<br />

W<strong>holes</strong>ome and delightful<br />

Indonesian home cooking in a<br />

casually intimate setting.<br />

Biku<br />

Jl. Petitenget 888, Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 857 0888<br />

Set i a 150 year-old-teak-wood joglo<br />

(Javanese traditional house) and<br />

serves <strong>the</strong> island’s best tea rituals.<br />

Don’t forget to try <strong>the</strong>ir cakes as<br />

well.<br />

Blossom<br />

Sentosa Villas and Spa<br />

Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget<br />

T: 0361 730 333<br />

Located in Sentosa Villas Clubhouse,<br />

this restaurant and bar features a<br />

beautiful 35-metre natural rock pool<br />

and sundeck.<br />

Breeze<br />

The Samaya Bali<br />

Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 731 149<br />

Beachfront dining at its best!<br />

Hearty Asian/European cuisine<br />

complements one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best beach<br />

views in Seminyak in a relaxed but<br />

very chic al fresco setting.<br />

Café Bali<br />

Jl. Laksmana, Oberoi, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 736 484, 780 1515<br />

Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and<br />

cocktails galore at this beautifully<br />

decorated colonial-style restaurant<br />

that boasts a cosy veranda.<br />

Café Jemme<br />

Jl. Raya Petitenget no.28, Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 732 392<br />

A beautiful restaurant that serves up<br />

modern dishes sourced locally.<br />

Capris Bar & Restaurant<br />

S<strong>of</strong>itel Seminyak Bali<br />

Jl. Camplung Tanduk, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 730 730<br />

Beachfront restaurant serving<br />

sumptuous and superbly presented<br />

Mediterranean cuisine, plus a wide<br />

range <strong>of</strong> fine tropical cocktails and<br />

wines.<br />

Chandi<br />

Jl. Laksmana no. 72, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 731 060<br />

Hip restaurant <strong>of</strong>fering excellent<br />

pan-Asian fares. Check out <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

G-Spot parties every first Saturday<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> month.<br />

Cornerstore<br />

Jl Oberoi no. 10B<br />

T: 0361 730 276<br />

Hippest urban breakfast/lunch<br />

spot in town serving a vast array<br />

<strong>of</strong> morning staples and savoury<br />

sandwiches.<br />

Crispy Pata<br />

Jl. Petitenget 27c<br />

T: 0361 847 5461<br />

Cool, cozy and delicious. Serves bites<br />

from Phillipines, especially <strong>the</strong> crispy<br />

pork leg.<br />

Delicious Onion<br />

Jl. Drupadi 1010<br />

T: NA<br />

A down-to-earth eatery serving<br />

Asian flavours. Try <strong>the</strong> crispy roast<br />

pork and <strong>the</strong> pineapple margaritas<br />

which are among <strong>the</strong> best in Bali.<br />

Earth Café<br />

Jl. Laksmana no. 99, Oberoi<br />

T: 0361 736 645<br />

Organic, macrobiotic, mixed<br />

international vegetarian cuisine.<br />

Fresh<br />

Jl. Laksmana, Oberoi<br />

T: 0361 736 834<br />

Undoubtedly <strong>the</strong> most original type<br />

<strong>of</strong> fusion rolls served in Bali, with a<br />

menu that also pleases non-Sushi<br />

fans.<br />

Gado Gado Restaurant and Bar<br />

Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 99<br />

T: 0361 736 966<br />

Good value menu and an awesome<br />

sunset location make this a wellvisited<br />

Seminyak institution. The<br />

newly launched menu is a dining<br />

treat.<br />

Gateway <strong>of</strong> India<br />

Jl. Dyana Pura, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 732 940<br />

Quality traditional dishes from <strong>the</strong><br />

Indian subcontinent with reasonable<br />

prices. A perennial favourite.<br />

77


Gourmet Café<br />

Jl. Petitenget no. 77A<br />

T: 0361 847 5115<br />

Serving an all-day breakfast menu<br />

and <strong>the</strong> opportunity to create your<br />

own salads and sandwiches.<br />

Grocer & Grind<br />

Jl. Kayu Jati no. 3X, Petitenget<br />

T: 0361 373 321<br />

Deli and lounge style restaurant<br />

serving high quality home style soul<br />

food in a chic surrounding.<br />

Harry Juku<br />

Jl. Raya Petitenget 919<br />

T: 0361 732 884<br />

Serves international fares in a cool,<br />

classy, minimalist open-air setting.<br />

Also has a good bar.<br />

Husk Restaurant and Bar<br />

S<strong>of</strong>itel Seminyak Bali<br />

Jl. Camplung Tanduk, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 730 730<br />

A modern Thai eatery providing an<br />

innovative and stylish dining option<br />

in an open setting overlooking<br />

Seminyak beach.<br />

JP’s Warung Club<br />

Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 6, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 731 622<br />

JP’s Warung <strong>of</strong>fers good hearty food,<br />

cool drinks and hot live music.<br />

Kaizan Fine Japanese Dining<br />

Jl. Kayu Aya no. 33, Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 747 2324<br />

Quality fusion Japanese cuisine<br />

and provider <strong>of</strong> some delectable<br />

imported plum wines.<br />

Khaima Moroccan Restaurant<br />

Jl. Laksmana, Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 742 3925<br />

This Moroccan <strong>the</strong>med gem <strong>of</strong>fers<br />

an assortment <strong>of</strong> exotic fares. Shisha<br />

is available and belly dances are<br />

exhibited on weekend nights.<br />

Ku Dé Ta<br />

Jl. Kayu Aya no. 9, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 736 969<br />

Modern cuisine in a minimalist open<br />

plan setting where people go to see<br />

and be seen.<br />

La Cantina<br />

Jl. Pengubengan Kauh, no. 38<br />

T: 0361 731 840<br />

Indonesian/Western food by day,<br />

Mediterranean food by night in a<br />

garden setting.<br />

La Lucciola<br />

Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget<br />

T: 0361 730 838<br />

This long time beachside favourite<br />

<strong>of</strong>fers great Italian food, sunsets,<br />

brunch and dinners in a fabulous<br />

setting.<br />

La Sal<br />

Jl. Drupadi, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 738 321<br />

Spanish restaurant /lounge serving<br />

tapas and home style cooking in a<br />

garden courtyard setting.<br />

Le Spot C<strong>of</strong>fee Shop & Restaurant<br />

Bali Deli<br />

Jl. Kunti no. 117X, Seminyak,<br />

T: 0361 738 686<br />

A laid-back outdoor terrace<br />

that serves a selection <strong>of</strong> hearty<br />

sandwiches, pastas and salads.<br />

78<br />

Mannekepis<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 2<br />

T: 0361 847 5784<br />

Brings a taste <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Belgian barbistro<br />

scene to Bali where diners<br />

can indulge on fine steaks and a<br />

selection <strong>of</strong> refreshing beers to a<br />

backdrop <strong>of</strong> lively jazz and Blues.<br />

Métis<br />

Jl. Petitenget no. 6, Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 847 5481<br />

Chef Nicolas “Doudou” Tourneville,<br />

formerly <strong>of</strong> Kafe Warisan, brings<br />

his legendary talent and culinary<br />

artistry to <strong>the</strong> table with a<br />

masterful combination <strong>of</strong> French<br />

Mediterranean cuisine.<br />

MYKONOS<br />

Jl. Laksamana no. 52, Oberoi<br />

T: 0361 733 253<br />

Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Greek culinary gems<br />

complete with Greek music.<br />

Nutmegs Restaurant<br />

Jl. Oberoi, Petitenget, Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 736 443<br />

A culinary haven which strives to<br />

satisfy <strong>the</strong> distinguished global<br />

palate in a beautiful and tranquil<br />

ambience.<br />

Pantarei<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 17<br />

T: 0361 732 567<br />

Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Greek cuisine at moderate<br />

prices.<br />

Paul’s Place<br />

Jl. Laksmana no. 4A, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 736 910<br />

Eclectic pan-Asian cuisine with<br />

everything from steaks to Pad Thai.<br />

Good quality, with tasteful Asian<br />

<strong>the</strong>med décor and a romantic<br />

ro<strong>of</strong>top dining area.<br />

Prana Restaurant<br />

The Villas Bali<br />

Jl. Kunti no. 117x, Seminyak.<br />

T: 0361 730 840<br />

Organically grown vegetables and<br />

salads are presented on <strong>the</strong> health<br />

menu along with special herbal<br />

ingredients and cleansing drinks.<br />

Queen’s Tandoor<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 73<br />

T: 0361 732 770 / 771<br />

Simply luscious au<strong>the</strong>ntic Indian<br />

food.<br />

Restaurant Grill & Wine (RGW)<br />

Anantara Seminyak Resort<br />

Jl. Abimanyu, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 737 773<br />

Freshest imported meats and catch<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day from local fishermen<br />

cooked in innovative Mediterranean<br />

style.<br />

Rumours<br />

Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 738 720<br />

Restaurant/bar/lounge serving<br />

steaks, ribs and pasta at excellent<br />

prices.<br />

Sabeen<br />

The Haven, Jl. Seminyak no. 500<br />

T: 0361 738 001<br />

Salad selections, pan-Asian classics<br />

with a twist and elaborations on<br />

international favourites.<br />

Sardine<br />

Jl. Petitenget no. 21, Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 738 202<br />

Fresh seafood dishes served in a<br />

beautiful open-air venue made <strong>of</strong><br />

mostly bamboo.<br />

Sarong<br />

Jl. Petitenget no. 19X, Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 737 809<br />

Renowned Australian chef Will<br />

Meyrick takes food travellers on<br />

an adventure around <strong>the</strong> flavours<br />

<strong>of</strong> South-East Asia. The menu is<br />

designed to encourage sharing and<br />

discovering new tastes, including<br />

a selection <strong>of</strong> signature cocktails<br />

focused on refreshing fresh fruit<br />

flavours.<br />

SIP<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 730 810<br />

A French bistro in <strong>the</strong> heart <strong>of</strong><br />

Seminyak, fabulously au<strong>the</strong>ntic,<br />

serving you <strong>the</strong> nicest foie gras and<br />

<strong>the</strong> best selection <strong>of</strong> wines on <strong>the</strong><br />

island.<br />

Studio 5 Café Cure<br />

Jl Abimanyu, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 847 5794<br />

Eastern and Western food focusing<br />

on health and beauty.<br />

The Living Room<br />

Jl. Oberoi, Petitenget, Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 735 735<br />

A private dining room, garden<br />

setting and seductive bar area<br />

coupled with delicious Eurasian fare.<br />

The Restaurant<br />

The Legian Bali<br />

Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 730 622<br />

Contemporary world cuisine<br />

highlighting <strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> cultures<br />

including flavours from Japan,<br />

Thailand, India, Indonesia, Europe<br />

and <strong>the</strong> USA.<br />

Trattoria Cucina Italiana<br />

Jl. Laksmana, Oberoi<br />

T: 0361 737 082<br />

Excellent home-style Italian cooking<br />

at very reasonable prices.<br />

Ultimo Italian Restaurant<br />

Jl. Laksmana no. 104X, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 738 720 / 21<br />

Upmarket Italian dishes with<br />

outdoor and indoor setting.<br />

Warung Eropa<br />

Jl. Petitenget 9D, Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 747 1771<br />

Serves one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tastiest crispy duck<br />

on <strong>the</strong> island that, can also be served<br />

with mashed potato.<br />

Warung Italia<br />

Jl. Kunti no. 2<br />

T: 0361 737 437<br />

Italian food served up warung-style.<br />

Pick from a selection <strong>of</strong> Italian sides<br />

and mains as if you were making an<br />

Italian-style nasi campur.<br />

Wild Orchid<br />

Anantara Seminyak Resort<br />

Jl. Abimanyu, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 737 773<br />

Imaginative cooking from Thailand’s<br />

diverse culinary regions combining<br />

fresh vegetables, traditional herbs<br />

and exotic spices.<br />

NUSA DUA /<br />

TANJUNG BENOA<br />

Allspice Restaurant & Bar<br />

Royal Santrian Villas<br />

Jl. Pratama<br />

T: 0361 778 181<br />

Contemporary cuisine meets<br />

cutting-edge design in this<br />

restaurant-cum-martini bar.<br />

Specialises in Thai, teppan, and<br />

sushi.<br />

Boneka<br />

St. Regis Bali Resort<br />

Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 847 8111<br />

A breakfast and brunch experience<br />

with arguably <strong>the</strong> most decadent<br />

early doors’ dishes being served on<br />

<strong>the</strong> island. The chefs exclusively<br />

prepare each and every dish a la<br />

minute.<br />

Bumbu Bali<br />

Jl. Pratama, Tanjung Benoa<br />

T: 0361 771 256<br />

Genuine Balinese food cooked in<br />

<strong>the</strong> traditional way. Try <strong>the</strong> Balinese<br />

version <strong>of</strong> rijsttafel.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> C Bar & Restaurant<br />

Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa<br />

Jl. Pratama no. 68X<br />

T: 0361 773 577<br />

Creative cocktail creations and<br />

succulent fresh seafood on a<br />

beachfront setting.<br />

Café Lagoon<br />

The Laguna<br />

Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot N2<br />

T: 0361 771 327<br />

Cuisine from around <strong>the</strong> world<br />

overlooking a majestic lagoon.<br />

Outdoor terrace and air-conditioned<br />

dining available.<br />

Eight Degrees South<br />

Conrad Bali<br />

Jl. Pratama Raya no. 168<br />

T: 0361 778 788<br />

Located on <strong>the</strong> beach, lunch<br />

features a collection <strong>of</strong> fresh,<br />

organic ingredients, dinner, all about<br />

seafood in a variety <strong>of</strong> tastes and<br />

flavours.<br />

Faces<br />

The Balé<br />

Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan<br />

T: 0361 775 111<br />

Chef Brandon Huisman is big on<br />

taste and has a simple approach to<br />

serving quality cuisine using only<br />

<strong>the</strong> finest local ingredients in <strong>the</strong><br />

gorgeous surrounds <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Balé.<br />

Giorgio Restaurant<br />

Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa<br />

Jl. Pratama no. 68X<br />

T: 0361 773 577<br />

Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian home cooking in a<br />

chic environment.<br />

Hamabe Japanese Restaurant<br />

The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 771 906<br />

Westin’s signature Japanese<br />

restaurant featuring dining choices<br />

from sushi bars to teppanyaki to<br />

private tatami rooms.<br />

Ikan Restaurant & Bar<br />

The Westin Resort, Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 771 906<br />

Seafood, Balinese specialties<br />

and Western cuisine in a casual<br />

oceanfront setting with Mongolian<br />

BBQ dinner <strong>of</strong>fered on Mondays.<br />

Kayuputi<br />

St. Regis Bali Resort<br />

Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 847 8111<br />

Chef Oscar Perez integrates Asian<br />

flavours and classic Western<br />

influences, <strong>of</strong>fering Wagyu beef from<br />

Australia, Kobe from Japan, seafood<br />

from local waters as well as imported<br />

specialties. The menu also includes<br />

delectable vegetarian selections and<br />

organic produce.<br />

Maguro Asian Bistro<br />

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa<br />

T: 0361 771 210<br />

Featuring dishes as diverse as Indian<br />

influenced lamb pastries to Chinese<br />

favourites to flavourful tropical<br />

Asian-style salads and sushi and<br />

sashimi. Hot favourite here is <strong>the</strong><br />

Korean barbeque.<br />

Mayang Sari<br />

The Laguna Resort & Spa<br />

Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 771 234<br />

With elegant décor overlooking<br />

sparkling blue lagoons and a<br />

cascading waterfall, this restaurant<br />

specialises in modern Indonesian<br />

cuisine with a contemporary<br />

presentation.<br />

Ocean Terrace<br />

The Laguna Resort & Spa<br />

Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 771 327<br />

This beachfront dining restaurant<br />

and oyster bar features a choice<br />

<strong>of</strong> Continental and Asian creative<br />

dishes as well as ultra fresh and live<br />

seafood.<br />

Piasan<br />

Kayumanis Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 770 777<br />

A chic fine dining restaurant,<br />

capturing <strong>the</strong> ritual <strong>of</strong> typical Italian<br />

home dining. Serves a delicious feast<br />

<strong>of</strong> well-prepared cuisine and social<br />

interaction.<br />

Raja’s Balinese Restaurant<br />

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa<br />

T: 0361 771 210<br />

Raja’s cuisine is seriously Balinese<br />

fare, unmodified - a result <strong>of</strong> more<br />

than a year <strong>of</strong> taste testing, guest<br />

trials, and in-house cooking contests.<br />

Although it serves original Balinese<br />

food, Raja’s is certified as a halal<br />

restaurant.<br />

RIN<br />

Conrad Bali<br />

Jl. Pratama Raya, no. 168<br />

T: 0361 778 788<br />

Contemporary Asian flavours,<br />

embraces <strong>the</strong> five basic tastes <strong>of</strong><br />

sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami.<br />

Salsa Verde<br />

Grand Hyatt Bali, Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 771 234<br />

Poolside Italian restaurant serving<br />

a selection <strong>of</strong> antipasti, pizzas and<br />

seafood.


Suku<br />

Conrad Bali<br />

Jl. Pratama Raya no. 168,<br />

T: 0361 778 788<br />

Offers cuisine using Balinese and<br />

Indonesian flavours all enjoyed al<br />

fresco with panoramic views over<br />

<strong>the</strong> Indian Ocean.<br />

Tetaring<br />

Kayumanis Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 770 777<br />

Signature restaurant <strong>of</strong> Kayumanis<br />

featuring an exciting fusion <strong>of</strong><br />

Western and South-East Asian<br />

specialties.<br />

The Italian Restaurant<br />

Amanusa Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 772 333<br />

Try <strong>the</strong> daily changing Antipasto<br />

selection and super-fresh seafood<br />

alongside a selection <strong>of</strong> rare wines.<br />

The Restaurant & Wine Cellar<br />

The Royal Santrian<br />

Jl. Pratama, Tanjung Benoa<br />

T: 0361 778 181<br />

The resort’s pool and sea view<br />

restaurant serving au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />

and delectable Japanese. A wide<br />

selection <strong>of</strong> International wines are<br />

also available.<br />

The Shore<br />

Nikko Bali Resort & Spa<br />

Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan<br />

T: 0361 773 377<br />

Beachfront eatery with<br />

contemporary design. Great for<br />

breakfast and sunset dining.<br />

The Tao Bali<br />

Jl. Pratama no. 96, Tanjung Benoa<br />

T: 0361 772 902<br />

Experience a sensuous culinary<br />

journey through <strong>the</strong> cuisines <strong>of</strong><br />

South-East Asia. The Tao combines<br />

a mythical oriental ambience, fused<br />

with beachfront lagoon lounge<br />

ideal for <strong>the</strong> ultimate in soulful<br />

indulgence.<br />

The Terrace<br />

Amanusa Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 772 333<br />

Serves Thai and Indonesian cuisine<br />

with <strong>the</strong> addition <strong>of</strong> Continental<br />

fare.<br />

JIMBARAN/ULUWATU<br />

Alcedo Restaurant<br />

Gending Kedis<br />

Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera no. 100Y<br />

T: 0361 708 906<br />

Serving Indonesian and international<br />

fare set in a quiet spot to savour<br />

your sunset and romantic<br />

rendezvous.<br />

Asam Garam Restaurant<br />

Villa Balquisse<br />

Jl. Jalan Uluwatu no. 18X<br />

T: 0361 701 695<br />

Between a tasty rijsttafel, a<br />

Moroccan couscous and a wonderful<br />

five spices crème brûlée, it is <strong>the</strong><br />

right place for a culinary trip around<br />

<strong>the</strong> world.<br />

Dava<br />

Ayana Resort and Spa<br />

Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera<br />

T: 0361 702 222<br />

This chic 80-seat restaurant<br />

accentuates <strong>the</strong> spectacular Indian<br />

Ocean view. Eclectic fusion cuisine<br />

at its best.<br />

Di Mare<br />

Karma Kandara Resort<br />

Jl. Villa Kandara Banjar Wijaya<br />

T: 0361 848 2200<br />

Modern Mediterranean cuisine<br />

from celebrated Chef Simon Blabby.<br />

Spiced-crusted prawns and <strong>the</strong><br />

braised pork belly are recommended<br />

with all dishes expertly served in a<br />

comfortably chic atmosphere.<br />

honZEN<br />

Ayana Resort and Spa<br />

Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 702 222<br />

Flagship Japanese sushi, teppanyaki<br />

and Korean grill restaurant.<br />

Il Ristorante<br />

Bvlgari Resort Bali<br />

Jl. Goa Lempeh, Uluwatu<br />

T: 0361 847 1000<br />

Super exclusive flagship Bvlgari<br />

Italian restaurant that sits pretty<br />

atop <strong>the</strong> Uluwatu skyline with jaw<br />

dropping views and cuisine.<br />

Kisik<br />

Ayana Resort and Spa<br />

Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 702 222<br />

Freshly grilled seafood and great<br />

views make this a very popular hotel<br />

restaurant. Dine on <strong>the</strong> private jetty<br />

for a dinner to remember.<br />

Ko Japanese Restaurant<br />

InterContinental Bali Resort<br />

Jl. Uluwatu no. 45, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 701 777<br />

Restaurant is a setting to savour<br />

freshly prepared delicacies at <strong>the</strong><br />

Sushi Lounge or <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>atrics <strong>of</strong><br />

teppanyaki around a series <strong>of</strong><br />

interactive counters.<br />

Mead’s @ Karma<br />

Karma Jimbaran<br />

Jl. Bukit Permai, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 708 800<br />

Seafood, steaks and oysters served<br />

by <strong>the</strong> beach, and on one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />

beautiful beaches on <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

Nammos Beach Club<br />

Karma Kandara Resort<br />

Jl. Villa Kandara Banjar Wijaya<br />

T: 0361 848 2200<br />

Nelayan Restaurant<br />

Jimbaran Puri Bali<br />

Jl. Uluwatu, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 701 605<br />

Serving mainly traditionally prepared<br />

and locally caught fish and seafood<br />

as well as French Mediterranean<br />

dishes. Perfectly situated on <strong>the</strong><br />

beach.<br />

79 63


Padi Restaurant<br />

Ayana Resort and Spa<br />

Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 702 222<br />

Outdoor pavilions floating on lily<br />

ponds. Internationally acclaimed<br />

au<strong>the</strong>ntic Thai cuisine for dinner by<br />

Thai chef Nu Suandokmai.<br />

Pepenero Cucina Italiana<br />

Temple Hill Studios,<br />

Jl. Wanagiri no. 18, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 704 672<br />

W<strong>holes</strong>ome, au<strong>the</strong>ntic, almosttastes-like-Mamma’s-homemadepasta<br />

cooking surrounded by a<br />

cordial family-run atmosphere with<br />

daily menu specials.<br />

PJ’s<br />

Four Seasons Bali at Jimbaran Bay<br />

T: 0361 701 010<br />

Spectacular views <strong>of</strong> Jimbaran<br />

Bay. International selection with<br />

an emphasis on fish and seafood<br />

specialties. Wood-burning oven<br />

pizzas and pastas are also favourites.<br />

Sangkar Restaurant<br />

Bvlgari Resort Bali<br />

Jl. Goa Lempeh, Uluwatu<br />

T: 0361 847 1000<br />

Creative cuisine combining<br />

traditional recipes with modern<br />

culinary techniques and<br />

presentations.<br />

Sami Sami<br />

Ayana Resort and Spa<br />

Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 702 222<br />

A casual, cliff-side restaurant and<br />

bar that <strong>of</strong>fers innovative au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Italian cuisine in three separate<br />

outdoor dining pavilions.<br />

Tapis<br />

Kayumanis Jimbaran<br />

Jl. Yoga Perkanti, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 705 777<br />

Set in a traditional thatched dining<br />

pavilion with an open kitchen. This<br />

restaurant takes diners on a culinary<br />

discovery <strong>of</strong> Indonesian cuisine<br />

using <strong>the</strong> freshest market produce,<br />

exotic herbs and spices.<br />

The Warung<br />

Alila Villas Uluwatu<br />

Jl. Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak<br />

T: 0361 848 2166<br />

Styled after an actual traditional<br />

warung, this homey restaurant<br />

features a large main table made out<br />

<strong>of</strong> au<strong>the</strong>ntic wood taken from <strong>the</strong><br />

body <strong>of</strong> an antique ship.<br />

SANUR<br />

Arena<br />

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 287 255<br />

International restaurant that serves<br />

hearty meals for <strong>the</strong> carnivorous.<br />

Trivia night on Wednesdays<br />

showcase gladiatorial battles <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

mind.<br />

Café Batu Jimbar<br />

Jl. Danau Tamblingan<br />

T: 0361 287 374<br />

Great Indonesian food in a classically<br />

antique setting.<br />

80<br />

Café Wantilan<br />

Bali Hyatt, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 281 234<br />

Balinese and Indonesian favourites,<br />

including an impressive rijsttafel.<br />

Cupak Bistro and Grantang Bar<br />

Bali Hyatt, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 281 234<br />

The restaurant specialises in<br />

European bistro-style cuisine and<br />

Asian favourites in a relaxed and<br />

casual environment.<br />

Flashbacks<br />

Jl. Danau Tamblingan no. 110<br />

T: 0361 281 682<br />

Home cooked café food with<br />

amazing Aussie-style barbeque<br />

breakfasts on an open grill.<br />

Gong Restaurant<br />

The Gangsa Private Villas<br />

Jl. Tirta Akasa no. 28<br />

T: 0361 270 260<br />

Set within a calming environment,<br />

Gong presents an array <strong>of</strong> local<br />

herbs and spices that constitute <strong>the</strong><br />

flavours <strong>of</strong> fine Balinese dining.<br />

Mezzanine<br />

Jl. Cemara no. 35, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 270 624<br />

At <strong>the</strong> crossroads <strong>of</strong> International<br />

cuisine and Eastern fare. Open<br />

dining area and bar in <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong><br />

Sanur.<br />

Omang Omang Grill<br />

Bali Hyatt, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 281 234<br />

The Resort’s seafood and grill<br />

restaurant housed in traditional<br />

fisherman’s beach house with<br />

thatched ro<strong>of</strong> and magnificent views<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> garden and pool.<br />

Pizza Ria<br />

Bali Hyatt, Sanur<br />

Jl: Danau Tamblingan no. 89<br />

T: 0361 281 234<br />

Located right on <strong>the</strong> beach, <strong>the</strong><br />

restaurant is an open-air trattoria<br />

serving au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian pizza and<br />

pasta dishes.<br />

Telaga Naga<br />

Bali Hyatt, Sanur<br />

Jl: Danau Tamblingan no. 89<br />

T: 0361 281 234<br />

Set among tranquil lotus ponds<br />

<strong>the</strong> restaurant serves au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Szechuan and Cantonese cuisine.<br />

The Village Cucina Italiana<br />

Jl. Danau Tamblingan no. 47, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 285 025<br />

Exceptionally good Italian fare with<br />

amazing value. High quality food at<br />

affordable prices.<br />

Wantilan Café<br />

Bali Hyatt, Sanur<br />

Jl: Danau Tamblingan no. 89<br />

T: 0361 281 234<br />

Traditional Balinese village in an<br />

open-air pavilion that serves both<br />

Balinese and Indonesian cuisine with<br />

rijstaffel dinners.<br />

UBUD<br />

Ary’s Warung<br />

Jl. Raya Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 053<br />

One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> legendary institutions<br />

that had a hand in making Ubud one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world’s favourite town. Has<br />

been revamped to become a finedining<br />

restaurant that focuses on<br />

organic ingredients and produce and<br />

<strong>the</strong> slow food philosophy.<br />

Ayung Terrace<br />

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan<br />

Ubud, Gianyar<br />

T: 0361 977 577<br />

Quality cuisine with magnificent<br />

views over <strong>the</strong> Ayung River valley.<br />

Bebek Bengil - Dirty Duck Diner<br />

Padangtegal, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 486, 977 675<br />

One <strong>of</strong> Ubud’s original landmark<br />

restaurants, <strong>of</strong>fers cuisine from both<br />

East and West but specialises in<br />

delicious crispy duck.<br />

Beduur Restaurant<br />

Ubud Hanging Gardens<br />

Desa Buahan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 982 700<br />

French Asian fine dining in <strong>the</strong> midst<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> terraced jungle and canopies<br />

<strong>of</strong> Ubud.<br />

Bunuté Restaurant and Bar<br />

Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 972 177<br />

A place to savour good food and<br />

good wine. The ambience is natural<br />

and secluded.<br />

Casa Luna<br />

Jl. Raya Ubud<br />

T: 0361 973 283<br />

A smart selection <strong>of</strong> devilishly<br />

tempting desserts and a wide<br />

selection <strong>of</strong> teas and c<strong>of</strong>fees.<br />

Cooking classes are also available.<br />

Cascades Restaurant<br />

Viceroy Bali<br />

Jl. Lanyahan, Br Nagi, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 972 111<br />

Serves contemporary French cuisine<br />

with Asian influence.<br />

Dining Corner<br />

Kayumanis Ubud, Sayan Village<br />

T: 0361 972 777<br />

Offers <strong>the</strong> distinctively exotic<br />

flavours and spices <strong>of</strong> traditional<br />

Thai cuisine, while enjoying <strong>the</strong><br />

singular sights and sounds <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Ayung River valley.<br />

Fly Café<br />

Jl. Raya Lungsiakan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 440<br />

The best value restaurant in<br />

Ubud <strong>of</strong>fering scrumptious, local,<br />

international, and vegetarian cuisine<br />

including Bali’s best BBQ Ribs,<br />

Burgers, and Key Lime Pie.<br />

Glow<br />

Como Shambhala Estate<br />

Bengawan Giri, Ubud, Gianyar<br />

T: 0361 978 888<br />

A contemporary, all-day dining<br />

restaurant featuring healthy organic<br />

and raw cuisine.<br />

Indochine<br />

The Mansion Resort Hotel & Spa<br />

Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 972 616<br />

Introducing <strong>the</strong> flavour <strong>of</strong> Indo-<br />

China with a fusion <strong>of</strong> French-style<br />

cuisine.<br />

Indus<br />

Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 977 684<br />

Sister restaurant to Casa Luna<br />

specialising in Indonesian cuisine<br />

with new and inventive twists on old<br />

<strong>the</strong>mes.<br />

Jazz Cafe<br />

Jl. Sukma, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 976 594<br />

Cool Jazz at Ubud’s hottest<br />

night spot. The first and best<br />

live jazz venue on <strong>the</strong> island. An<br />

excellent bistro menu featuring<br />

Mediterranean and Asian-style<br />

cuisine and cocktails to die for.<br />

Kemiri<br />

Uma Ubud<br />

Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 972 448<br />

Modern, light and respectful local<br />

cuisine that revives traditional<br />

Indonesian <strong>of</strong>ferings as well as<br />

contemporary interpretations <strong>of</strong><br />

world flavours.<br />

Maya Sari Asiatique<br />

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa<br />

Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 977 888<br />

Relaxed dining overlooking <strong>the</strong><br />

Petanu River Valley serving<br />

innovative dishes <strong>of</strong> Indonesian,<br />

Japanese, Thai, Chinese and Indian<br />

specialties.<br />

Minami<br />

Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 970 013<br />

Exquisitely modern meals that will<br />

take you through <strong>the</strong> refined culture<br />

<strong>of</strong> Japanese dining.<br />

Mozaic Restaurant and Lounge<br />

Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 768<br />

There is no o<strong>the</strong>r restaurant in<br />

Bali that will entertain you in such<br />

a sensual manner. Try chef Chris<br />

Salan’s surprise menu with wine<br />

pairing. Reservations essential.<br />

Murni’s Warung<br />

Campuhan Bridge, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 233<br />

Four open-air levels that step down<br />

<strong>the</strong> steep hillside overlooking <strong>the</strong><br />

river, one <strong>of</strong> Ubud’s most popular<br />

restaurants.<br />

Naughty Nuri’s Warung<br />

Jl. Raya Sanggigngan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 977 547<br />

Hands down, best pork ribs in town.<br />

This low-key, laid-back, mellow<br />

fest should be in every Ubud<br />

itinerary. Their devilish martinis and<br />

margaritas are <strong>the</strong> best in Indonesia.<br />

Petulu Restaurant<br />

Kamandalu Resort and Spa<br />

Jl. Tegallalang, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 825<br />

Serving Indonesian specialties<br />

alongside a variety <strong>of</strong> Western<br />

cuisine.<br />

River Café<br />

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa<br />

Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 977 888<br />

Timbered floors and open kitchen<br />

design complement <strong>the</strong> healthy<br />

fusion food and spa cuisine.<br />

Siam Sally<br />

Jl. Hanoman - Pengosekan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 980 777<br />

Home-style Thai cuisine from <strong>the</strong><br />

entirety <strong>of</strong> Siam. Try <strong>the</strong>ir vegetarian<br />

rolls.<br />

Terazo<br />

Jl. Suweta, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 978 941<br />

A favourite Ubud bistro <strong>of</strong><br />

colonial modern style with great<br />

Mediterranean and Asian cuisine<br />

using fresh, high quality ingredients<br />

from <strong>the</strong> island’s best purveyors.<br />

Fish specials rotate daily to ensure<br />

freshness.<br />

The Three Monkeys<br />

Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 554<br />

Enjoy eclectic Asian and<br />

Mediterranean inspired cuisine and<br />

some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best desserts on <strong>the</strong><br />

island.<br />

Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka<br />

Jl. Suweta, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 976 345, 207 7490<br />

Babi Guling (roast suckling pig) at its<br />

best. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic and very informal,<br />

it is popular with those in <strong>the</strong> know<br />

and almost mandatory in a visit to<br />

Ubud.<br />

Warung Enak<br />

Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 972 911<br />

Funky designer warung <strong>of</strong>fering<br />

some little known Indonesian<br />

cuisines as well as some old<br />

favourites. Also a great range <strong>of</strong><br />

drinks. Forget nasi goreng and think<br />

snail sate or ayam Taliwang.<br />

BARS & CLUBS<br />

TUBAN/KUTA/LEGIAN<br />

BuGils Bali<br />

Jl. Dewi Sartika no. 1BB, Tuban<br />

T: 0361 758 322<br />

A cosy pub atmosphere and cheap<br />

drinks.<br />

Centrestage<br />

Hard Rock Hotel<br />

T: 0361 761 869<br />

Great place to watch cover bands<br />

light <strong>the</strong> night on fire.<br />

De Ja Vu<br />

Blue Ocean Beach, Legian<br />

T: 0361 733 777<br />

Expect Funky House beats galore in<br />

a stylish surround.<br />

Eikon<br />

Jl. Legian No.178 Kuta Bali<br />

T: 0361 750 701<br />

Good beats in a chill laid back<br />

setting that has been known to also<br />

get way wild.


Gracie Kelly’s<br />

Bali Dynasty Resort<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban<br />

T: 0361 752 403<br />

Bali’s only au<strong>the</strong>ntic Irish pub. The<br />

food is solid with Irish Stews and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Irish inspired nibbles. Live music every<br />

night playing Irish folk and just about<br />

everything else.<br />

Jepun Bar<br />

Bali Resort & Spa<br />

Jl. Wana Segara, South Kuta Beach<br />

T: 0361 753 340<br />

Offers a wide selection <strong>of</strong> creative<br />

cocktails and food menu <strong>of</strong> international<br />

cuisine. Live music, big screens, a pool<br />

table and 30 per cent discount during daily<br />

happy hour.<br />

M Bar Go<br />

Jl. Legian<br />

T: 0361 756 280<br />

Huge downstairs dance floor playing R&B<br />

and Hip Hop to flocking Kuta poseurs.<br />

Upstairs on <strong>the</strong> veranda is Funky House<br />

sets.<br />

Oceans 27<br />

Discovery Esplanade (Beach Front)<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 765 027, 755 522<br />

Beachfront club and lounge that features<br />

some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hippest and most happening<br />

events. Only cult status DJs play at this<br />

venue.<br />

Red Square Bali<br />

Pullman Legian Nirwana<br />

T: 0361 767 540<br />

Bali’s first vodka bar located right in front<br />

<strong>of</strong> Kuta beach. Expect fun madness.<br />

Sky Garden<br />

Jl. Legian, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 756 362<br />

Casts a formidable gaze over <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>tops<br />

<strong>of</strong> Legian with a slightly more refined feel<br />

to <strong>the</strong> interior and <strong>the</strong> crowds it attracts.<br />

Less emphasis on <strong>the</strong> commercial top 40<br />

playlists.<br />

Stadium Cafe<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 763 100<br />

A magnet for sports fans <strong>of</strong>fering large<br />

screens and all <strong>the</strong> action. Good pub grub<br />

and cold beers.<br />

The Bounty Club<br />

Jl. Legian, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 754 040<br />

Plethora <strong>of</strong> hot gyrating bodies locally<br />

known as <strong>the</strong> cesspool <strong>of</strong> fun.<br />

The Wave<br />

Jl. Pantai Kuta<br />

T: 0361 760 068<br />

A new three-in-one super club housing<br />

The C<strong>of</strong>fee Bar (an al fresco café and<br />

beach bar), Sailfin (Kuta’s premier fine<br />

dining restaurant), The Club (a long bar<br />

and a disco<strong>the</strong>que) and <strong>the</strong> beachfront<br />

shopping arcade.<br />

Twice Bar<br />

Poppies 2<br />

T: 0813 2107 4129<br />

Sweet underground bar for those seeking<br />

maximum rock ‘n’ roll culture. Live bands<br />

play everything from rockabilly to punk to<br />

metal to psychobilly.<br />

SEMINYAK/KEROBOKAN<br />

Bacio<br />

Jl. Double Six, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 742 4466<br />

Spacious two-floored restaurant, bar<br />

and warm up spot for fur<strong>the</strong>r clubbing<br />

adventures in <strong>the</strong> locale.<br />

Bahiana<br />

Jl. Dhyana Pura, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 738 662<br />

Latino booty shaking rhythms to get <strong>the</strong><br />

libido fully charged before a trip to <strong>the</strong><br />

bigger clubs.<br />

Bali Joe’s<br />

Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 8, Seminyak<br />

T: 0819 9910 0445<br />

The latest addition to <strong>the</strong> island’s all-boy<br />

scene.<br />

Divine Wonderland<br />

Jl. Laksmana<br />

T: 0361 730 759<br />

A tapas bar-cum-lounge that is inspired by<br />

a doll house. It is regal Victorian fantasy<br />

brought to life.<br />

Double Six<br />

Jl. Double Six, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 731 266<br />

Veers toward <strong>the</strong> Euro-beat genre.<br />

Hu’U Bar<br />

Jl. Oberoi, Petitenget, Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 736 443<br />

Trendy and warm atmosphere for a more<br />

established crowd.<br />

Ku Dé Ta<br />

Jl Kayu Aya no. 9, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 736 969<br />

Sunset, lounge chairs, almost any drink<br />

imaginable, impeccable service and a<br />

sinfully trendy crowd.<br />

Obsession<br />

Jl. Dhyana Pura, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 730 269<br />

Home <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> famous Saharadja Band. It’s<br />

<strong>the</strong> place where you can hear <strong>the</strong> sound <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> best live bands in Bali.<br />

Mixwell<br />

Jl. Dhyana Pura no. 6, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 736 846<br />

Very popular for <strong>the</strong> boys who don’t mind<br />

not seeing a girl in a bar.<br />

Mobile Home Bar<br />

Goes mobile in different venues. Who<br />

knows where, who knows when? You<br />

just have to know someone who knows<br />

someone.<br />

Red Carpet Champagne Bar<br />

Jl. Laksmana no. 42C, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 737 889<br />

Holds <strong>the</strong> largest champagne selection in<br />

Bali. Try <strong>the</strong> lychee martini, possibly <strong>the</strong><br />

best on <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

SANTA FE<br />

Jl. Dhyana Pura<br />

T: 0361 731 147<br />

Old school Bali fun spot where you can<br />

enjoy live music every night.<br />

Sea Circus<br />

Jl. Laksmana no.22<br />

T: 0361 738 667<br />

Pre-drinks lounge that serves tapas<br />

and seafood snacks in ra<strong>the</strong>r posh and<br />

colourful setting. The cocktails are also<br />

quite good.<br />

81


SOS Beach (Sunset on Seminyak)<br />

Anantara Seminyak Resort<br />

Jl. Abimanyu, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 737 773<br />

Newly relaunched, this is <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />

spot to chill out while viewing <strong>the</strong><br />

sun go down.<br />

The Bar<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 17<br />

T: 0361 732 567<br />

Cool blue setting to predominantly<br />

hip-hop audio. Good place to pregame<br />

before <strong>the</strong> club.<br />

NUSA DUA/ JIMBARAN/<br />

NEW KUTA<br />

By <strong>the</strong> C Bar<br />

Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa<br />

Jl. Pratama no. 68X, Tanjung Benoa<br />

T: 0361 773 577<br />

Cascade Bar<br />

The Laguna Resort & Spa<br />

Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot N2<br />

T: 0361 771 234<br />

Live music entertainment nightly,<br />

outdoor terrace setting serving<br />

classic drinks next to cascading<br />

waterfalls.<br />

EAST<br />

Conrad Bali<br />

Jl. Pratama Raya no. 168, Tajung<br />

Benoa<br />

T: 0361 778 788<br />

The hotel’s sunken lobby lounge.<br />

Offers spectacular views <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Indian Ocean.<br />

Fluid<br />

The Balé<br />

Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan<br />

T: 0361 775 111<br />

Intimate daybeds, chilled cushions<br />

on <strong>the</strong> lawn, delectable cocktail<br />

creations and canapés.<br />

Klapa<br />

Jl. New Kuta Beach<br />

Pecatu Indah Resort<br />

T: 0361 848 4581<br />

Features a hefty-sized swimming<br />

pool that is available for use.<br />

Rock Bar<br />

Ayana Resort and Spa<br />

Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 702 222<br />

Accessed via inclinator, this cliff-top<br />

bar <strong>of</strong>fers extreme architecture and<br />

a 360-degree view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> gods. Music includes chill out<br />

sunsets with live unplugged bands.<br />

SANUR<br />

Blue Eyes<br />

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 888, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 780 7478<br />

An indoor club that caters to <strong>the</strong><br />

domestic crowd.<br />

Piano Bar<br />

Bali Hyatt, Sanur<br />

Jl: Danau Tamblingan no. 89<br />

T: 0361 281 234<br />

Open-air bar overlooking lush<br />

gardens and an ocean-view balcony.<br />

82<br />

The Cat and Fiddle<br />

Jl. Cemara no. 36, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 282 218<br />

Live Irish bands every night in this<br />

popular expatriates haunt tucked<br />

away in deepest, darkest south<br />

Sanur.<br />

UBUD<br />

Jazz Cafe<br />

Jl. Sukma no. 2, Tebesaya, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 976 594<br />

Cool Jazz at Ubud’s hottest<br />

nightspot. Live bands play Jazz,<br />

Blues, Latin, Funk and Soul to<br />

expatriates and visiting travellers.<br />

Naughty Nuri’s<br />

Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 977 547<br />

Recently described by a leading<br />

English language newspaper as a<br />

“wretched little roadside shack”<br />

but <strong>the</strong>re’s nothing wretched about<br />

<strong>the</strong> bone twisting martinis served<br />

up here.<br />

Ozigo Bar<br />

Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 980 358<br />

Just what Ubud needs, a taste <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Seminyak scene to brighten up those<br />

long Bali nights when <strong>the</strong> trundle<br />

down <strong>the</strong> hill just isn’t on <strong>the</strong> cards.<br />

DELIS &<br />

BAKERIES<br />

Bali Buddha<br />

Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 844 5936<br />

All your environmentally friendly<br />

needs can be catered including<br />

imported natural remedies, organic<br />

vegetables, healthy breakfasts,<br />

lunches and dinners.<br />

Bali Bakery<br />

Jl. Iman Bonjol, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 755 149<br />

Purveyor <strong>of</strong> all things bread and<br />

pastry, expanded into restaurant<br />

serving a vast variety <strong>of</strong> food.<br />

Bali Deli<br />

Jl. Kunti, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 738 686<br />

Specialising in <strong>the</strong> finest French<br />

imports and o<strong>the</strong>r international<br />

luxury gourmet items.<br />

Dijon<br />

Jl. Setiabudi, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 759 636<br />

A great deli selling imported cold<br />

cuts, pickles, cheeses and much<br />

more. Home or villa delivery.<br />

Gourmet Garage<br />

Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 705 848<br />

Contender for <strong>the</strong> best ice cream<br />

on <strong>the</strong> island as well as a top choice<br />

from <strong>the</strong> wine cellar and an excellent<br />

array <strong>of</strong> imported cheeses.<br />

Grocer and Grind<br />

Jl. Kayu Jati no. 3X, Petitenget<br />

T: 0361 737 321<br />

Papaya<br />

Jl. Mertanadi<br />

T: 0361 759 222<br />

More gourmet <strong>of</strong>ferings at<br />

reasonable prices, a great place to<br />

shop for sushi and maki rolls made<br />

fresh daily on <strong>the</strong> premises.<br />

BEST IN SPA<br />

Amala Spa<br />

The Amala<br />

Jl. Kunti no. 108, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 738 866<br />

Anantara Spa<br />

Jl. Abimanyu (Dhyana Pura)<br />

Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 737 773<br />

DaLa Spa<br />

Villa De Daun<br />

Jl. Raya Legian, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 756 276<br />

Fabulously Feet<br />

Jl. Sunset Road 888, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 847 5764<br />

Jiwa Spa<br />

Conrad Bali<br />

Jl. Pratama Raya no. 168,<br />

T: 0361 778 788<br />

Kamandalu Spa<br />

Kamandalu Resort and Spa<br />

Jl. Tegallalang, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 825<br />

Karma Spa<br />

Karma Kandara<br />

Jl. Villa Kandara, Ungasan<br />

T: 0361 848 2200<br />

Kayumanis Spa at Ubud<br />

Sayan Village, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 972 777<br />

Kirana Spa<br />

Desa Kedewatan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 976 333<br />

Kriya Spa<br />

Grand Hyatt Bali, Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 778 884<br />

Laguna Spa & Villa<br />

The Laguna Resort & Spa<br />

Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 771 327<br />

Luxé Lounge Spa<br />

Sentosa Private Villas and Spa<br />

Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget<br />

T: 0361 730 333<br />

M Spa<br />

Jl. Laksmana 4A, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 736 910<br />

This all-male <strong>the</strong>rapist is a small<br />

but charming spa, with several<br />

treatment rooms, complete with<br />

ei<strong>the</strong>r shower or bath. Massages,<br />

reflexology, body masks and scrubs,<br />

as well as skin and nail care.<br />

Malkoha Spa<br />

Gending Kedis Luxury Villa<br />

Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera no.100y<br />

Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 708 906<br />

Nusa Dua Spa<br />

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa<br />

T: 0361 771 210<br />

O-CE-N Spa<br />

O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger<br />

Jl. Arjuna 88X, Legian<br />

T: 0361 737 400<br />

Ojas<br />

COMO Shambhala Estate<br />

PO Box 54, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 978 888<br />

Prana Spa<br />

The Villas Bali<br />

Jl. Kunti 117x, Seminyak.<br />

T: 0361 730 840<br />

Rei Wellness Spa<br />

Jl. Griya Anyar Br. Kajeng Pemogan<br />

Denpasar<br />

T: 0361 847 3320<br />

Remede Spa<br />

St. Regis Bali Resort<br />

Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 847 8111<br />

Spa Air<br />

Villa Air Bali<br />

Jl. Lebak Sari, Petitenget<br />

T: 0361 737 378<br />

Spa Hati<br />

Jl. Raya Andong no.14, Peliatan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 977 578<br />

Spa-Pad<br />

The Elysian Private Villas<br />

Jl. Sari Dewi no.18, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 730 999<br />

Spa Uluwatu<br />

InterContinental Resort Bali<br />

Jl. Uluwatu no. 45, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 701 888<br />

Spa Venus<br />

Villa Kubu<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak, Gg. Plawa<br />

T: 0361 731 129<br />

Sukha Spa<br />

Risata Bali Resort & Spa<br />

Jl. Jenggala, Tuban, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 753 340<br />

Talaga Spa<br />

Graha Ganesa Blok A,B,C<br />

Jl. Dewi Sri Lc 16, Sunset Road<br />

T: 0361 873 3831<br />

Taman Merah Spa<br />

Jl. Raya Petitenget 469, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 736 656<br />

Tea Tree Spa<br />

Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali<br />

Jl. Wana Segara 33, Tuban<br />

T: 0361 755 577<br />

Thalasso Spa<br />

Grand Mirage Resort<br />

Jl. Pratama no.74, Tanjung Benoa<br />

T: 0361 771 883<br />

Thermes Marins Bali Spa<br />

Ayana Resort and Spa<br />

Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 702 222<br />

Theta Spa<br />

Ramada Bintang Bali Resort<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 755 726<br />

The Ayur Spa<br />

The Kayana<br />

Jl. Raya Petitenget<br />

T: 0361 847 6628<br />

The Spa at Maya<br />

Maya Ubud Resort and Spa<br />

Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 977 888<br />

The Spa at The Balé<br />

The Balé<br />

Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan<br />

T: 0361 775 111<br />

The Spa at The Samaya<br />

The Samaya Bali<br />

Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 731 149<br />

The Spa Villas<br />

Four Seasons Bali at Sayan<br />

Sayan, Ubud, Gianyar<br />

T: 0361 977 577<br />

The Spa @ The Legian<br />

The Legian Bali<br />

Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 730 622<br />

RETAIL THERAPY<br />

Aphrodite<br />

Jl. Laksmana no. 38B<br />

T: 0361 734 929<br />

Atlas South Sea Pearl<br />

Jalan Bypass Ngurah Rai, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 284 455<br />

A beautiful range <strong>of</strong> exclusive<br />

handcrafted pearl jewellery made by<br />

master craftsmen in 18ct white and<br />

yellow gold, diamonds and precious<br />

stones in <strong>the</strong>ir showrooms.<br />

Bamboo Blonde<br />

Jl. Laksmana no. 1, Gg Lumut<br />

T: 0361 742 5290 / 5291<br />

Biasa<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 36<br />

T: 0361 730 308<br />

Very stylish and desirable. Light,<br />

durable, contemporary designs in<br />

quality linen, cotton and silk for him<br />

and her. Range <strong>of</strong> belts, bags and<br />

accessories available.<br />

Body & Soul<br />

Legian<br />

T: 0361 767 169<br />

Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 733 564<br />

Kuta Square<br />

T: 0361 755 227<br />

Discovery Mall<br />

T: 0361 769 752<br />

Aimed at a younger market, you will<br />

find up-to-<strong>the</strong> minute styles that<br />

are a magnet for Bali’s young beach<br />

bodies. The accessories are fabulous<br />

and <strong>the</strong>re is always something new.


Body & Soul Bambini<br />

Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 733 564<br />

Legian<br />

T: 0361 758 385<br />

Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 771 451<br />

Discovery Mal<br />

T: 0361 769 751<br />

By The Sea<br />

Jl. Legian 186, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 757 775<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 847 5745<br />

Jl. Raya Basangkasa<br />

T: 0361 730 510<br />

Jl. Laksmana, Oberoi<br />

T: 0361 732 198<br />

Tropical wear for male and female at its<br />

best. Very comfortable to wear while still<br />

very in vogue.<br />

Chile Boutique<br />

Jl. Laksmana no. 41, Oberoi<br />

T: 0361 793 0258<br />

Dandelion<br />

Jl. Raya Basangkasa no. 28<br />

T: 0361 730 375<br />

Dinda Rella<br />

Jl. Laksmana no. 45<br />

T: 0361 736 953<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 44<br />

T: 0361 734 228<br />

Innuendo<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak 75<br />

T: 0361 730 790<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak 47A<br />

T: 0361 732 113<br />

Jemme<br />

Jl. Raya Petitenget 125<br />

T: 0361 733 508<br />

A gallery <strong>of</strong> classic fine jewellery and<br />

contemporary designs using <strong>the</strong> best<br />

in silver, gold, and platinum materials.<br />

A stunning treasure chest <strong>of</strong> jewellery<br />

collections, from Bali and around <strong>the</strong><br />

world.<br />

Extreme Toys<br />

Jl. Legian<br />

T: 0361 764 476<br />

Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 848 0471<br />

Jungle Surf<br />

Jl. Pantai Kuta<br />

T: 0361 750 096<br />

Jl. Legian<br />

T: 0361 756 644<br />

k&i<br />

Jl. Basangkasa 44<br />

T: 0361 737 025<br />

Jl. Laksmana 18<br />

T: 0361 736 477<br />

Kerry Grima<br />

Jl. Raya Basangkasa 47<br />

T: 0361 736 403<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak 26.<br />

T: 0361 732 300<br />

Ku De Ta Boutique<br />

Jl. Laksmana no. 9, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 736 969<br />

Lily Jean<br />

Jl. Oberoi, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 847 5872<br />

Lucy’s Batik<br />

Jl. Basangkasa 88X<br />

T: 0361 795 1275<br />

A unique Batik shop introducing <strong>the</strong> rich<br />

variety <strong>of</strong> batik, including modern and<br />

traditional designs, from various parts <strong>of</strong><br />

Indonesia.<br />

Magali Pascal<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak 65<br />

T: 0361 732 132<br />

Milo’s<br />

Kuta Square and Made’s Warung, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 754 081<br />

One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original overseas designers<br />

to discover <strong>the</strong> artistry <strong>of</strong> Balinese batik<br />

workers and translate it into Western<br />

styling. The three-storey boutique stocks<br />

a wonderfully tactile range <strong>of</strong> silks that<br />

are well worth <strong>the</strong> extra cash.<br />

Nico Nico<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak no. 13<br />

T: 0361 730 805<br />

Nico Perez<br />

Jl. Laksmana 117X, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 738 308<br />

Niluh Djelantik<br />

Jl. Ry Kerobokan 144<br />

T: 0361 744 6068<br />

Stocks a beautiful range <strong>of</strong> sandals and<br />

shoes ranging from casual to glamorous.<br />

A girl’s dream realised in one store.<br />

Oakley<br />

Jl. Ry Kerobokan 144<br />

T: 0361 744 6068<br />

ONE Shop<br />

Jl. Drupadi no. 2, Seminyak<br />

T: NA<br />

Paul’s Place Boutique<br />

Jl. Laksmana Oberoi<br />

T: 0361 736 910<br />

Jl. Petitenget 147X<br />

T: 0361 733 886<br />

Contemporary ethnic collection with a<br />

strong Asian influence mostly in rayon<br />

and cotton. Alternative s<strong>of</strong>t clothing<br />

in sizes from regular to XXXL. Home<br />

furnishings, fantastic selected arts and<br />

crafts specialising in bronze artefacts,<br />

statues, Buddhas and dragons.<br />

Paul Ropp<br />

Kuta Square, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 757 835<br />

Jl. Laksmana, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 734 208<br />

Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 731 002<br />

Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 701 202<br />

Colourful fashion using hand-woven<br />

materials. Watch out for <strong>the</strong> amazing<br />

sales twice annually, where <strong>the</strong> real<br />

bargains can be had.<br />

Pura Vida<br />

Kuta Square Block D/31,<br />

T: 0361 756 296<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak 38B,<br />

T: 0361 847 5860<br />

Jl. Pantai Kuta 29A,<br />

T: 0361 766 627<br />

Jl. Raya Basangkasa 32,<br />

T: 0361 732 582<br />

Quiksilver<br />

Kuta Square<br />

T: 0361 757 838<br />

Jl. Legian<br />

T: 0361 751 214<br />

83


Religion<br />

Jl. Laksmana, Basangkasa<br />

T: 0361 731 916<br />

Renegade Republic<br />

Jl. Raya Legian 480<br />

T: 0361 808 7385<br />

Rip Curl<br />

Jl. Legian<br />

T: 0361 754 455<br />

Sabbatha<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak 97 Blok K<br />

T: 0361 731 756<br />

Scuba Duba Doo<br />

Jl. Legian Kelod 367<br />

T: 0361 761 798<br />

sks (simplekonsepstore)<br />

Jl. Lesmana 40, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 730 393<br />

An amazing space that stores<br />

designer furniture pieces. Also sells<br />

design books and stylish clothing<br />

pieces for both sexes.<br />

Skin<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 733 588<br />

STO - Surf Travel Online<br />

Gang Benesari, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 750 550<br />

Studio 5 Lifestyle Boutique<br />

Jl. Dhyana Pura<br />

T: 0361 847 5794<br />

Stussy<br />

Jl. Legian<br />

T: 0361 763 463<br />

Surfer Girl<br />

Jl. Legian 138, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 752 693<br />

The Bali Pearl<br />

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai,<br />

T: 0361 765 656<br />

Uc Silver<br />

Jl. Raya Batubulan<br />

T: 0361 461511<br />

Offers <strong>the</strong> latest design in<br />

contemporary, South-West, and<br />

Balinese sterling silver jewellery,<br />

using exquisite gemstones including<br />

opal, coral, turquoises, quartz,<br />

freshwater pearl, and many semi<br />

precious stones.<br />

Uluwatu<br />

Jl. Legian, Legian<br />

T: 0361 751 933<br />

Jl. Pantai Kuta, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 755 342<br />

Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 288 037<br />

Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 977 557<br />

Beautiful collection <strong>of</strong> white cotton,<br />

linens, lace clothing and sleepwear in<br />

crisp cotton and silky rayon finished<br />

with hand made Balinese lace.<br />

Uma and Leopold<br />

Jl. Kunti 8X<br />

T: 0361 733 670<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak 44B<br />

T: 0361 731 348<br />

Jl. Oberoi 77X<br />

T: 0361 737 697<br />

84<br />

HOMEWARES &<br />

FURNITURE<br />

Carlo Showroom<br />

Jl. Danau Poso 22, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 285 211<br />

Cempaka<br />

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no. 8<br />

Simpang Siur<br />

T: 0361 766 555, 747 4393<br />

Deefusion<br />

Jl. Laksmana 117X, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 738 308<br />

Deco Gallery<br />

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 273, Sanur,<br />

T: 0361 281 027<br />

An extensive collection <strong>of</strong><br />

Indonesian heritage, gifts, antiques,<br />

accessories, and interior decorations<br />

for villas, hotels, and houses.<br />

Didu All Wea<strong>the</strong>r Wicker<br />

Boulevard Sunset Road, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 847 5651<br />

Haveli<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 737 160<br />

A collection <strong>of</strong> home wares<br />

comprising <strong>of</strong> bed linens and tabletop<br />

items that are very <strong>of</strong>ten copied<br />

and sold around Bali.<br />

Hishem Furniture<br />

Jl. Sunset Road 86C, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 737 441<br />

Homewares at Mosaic<br />

Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 768<br />

Everything you need from cutlery<br />

and ceramics to glasses, napkins<br />

and vases is elegantly displayed in a<br />

variety <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>med presentations.<br />

Leolle<br />

Jl. Raya Kerobokan<br />

T: 0361 732 234<br />

Asian touches decorative accessories<br />

<strong>of</strong>fering a vast variety for your<br />

home’s needs. Created by traditional<br />

craftmen with a contemporary spirit.<br />

Lio Collection<br />

Jl. Raya Kerobokan no. 2<br />

T: 0361 780 0942<br />

Mien<br />

Jl. Petitenget 198X, Unit 3-4<br />

T: 0361 735 964<br />

Panonpoe<br />

Jl. Kayu Aya 150, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 736 714<br />

sks (simplekonsepstore)<br />

Jl. Laksmana 40, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 730 393<br />

Tarita Furniture<br />

Jl. Bypass<br />

T: 0361 411 773, 0361 411 802<br />

Word <strong>of</strong> mouth<br />

Kunti Arcade Shop 10<br />

Jl. Kunti no. 9<br />

T: 0361 743 2565<br />

A contemporary furniture store<br />

that is also a trendy café. You can<br />

buy everything here, including <strong>the</strong><br />

decorations in <strong>the</strong>ir toilets.<br />

Vinoti Living<br />

Mall Bali Galeria<br />

T: 0361 769 639<br />

Warisan Casa<br />

Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 701 081<br />

GALLERIES &<br />

MUSEUMS<br />

Agung Rai Museum <strong>of</strong> Art (ARMA)<br />

Jl. Bima Pengosekan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 974 228<br />

Open daily 9am-6pm<br />

Alila Living Gallery<br />

Alila, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 963<br />

Bamboo Gallery<br />

Yayasan Bamboo Lestari<br />

Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Pengosekan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 037<br />

Biasa Artspace<br />

Jl. Seminyak no.34<br />

T: 0361 847 5766<br />

Open Mondays to Saturdays from<br />

10am-9pm<br />

Danes Art Veranda<br />

Jl. Hayam Wuruk 159, Denpasar<br />

T: 0361 242 659, 244 096<br />

Open daily 10am-6pm<br />

Exhibit Gallery<br />

Jl. Petitenget 106<br />

T: 0361 739 385<br />

Esok Lusa Gallery<br />

Jl. Raya Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 735 262<br />

Franklin Lee Art Gallery<br />

Jl. Laksmana 34A, Kuta<br />

E: franklinlee@siliconjungle.net<br />

Ganesha Gallery<br />

Four Seasons Hotel Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 701 010<br />

Open daily 9am-6pm<br />

Gaya Art Space<br />

Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 979 252<br />

Open daily 9.30am-11pm<br />

Genta Fine Art Gallery<br />

Jl. Lodtunduh no. 1, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 978 272<br />

Open daily 9am-5pm<br />

Griya Santrian Gallery<br />

Jl. Danau Tamblingan 47, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 288 181<br />

Hanna Artspace<br />

Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 978 216<br />

Jenggala Gallery<br />

Jl. Uluwatu no. 2, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 703 311<br />

Open daily 8am-6pm<br />

Kendra Gallery<br />

Uma Sapna Villa<br />

Jl. Drupadi no. 88B, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 736 628<br />

Klinik Seni Taxu Gallery<br />

Jl. Gunung Rinjani IX A no. 8<br />

Denpasar<br />

T: 0361 482 593<br />

Komaneka Fine Art Gallery<br />

Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 976 090<br />

Museum Antonio Blanco<br />

Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 502<br />

Open daily 9am-5pm<br />

Museum Le Mayeur<br />

Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 286 201<br />

Open daily 8am-1.30pm<br />

Museum Neka<br />

Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 074<br />

Open daily 8am-5pm<br />

Museum Pasifika<br />

Kawasan Pariwisata BTDC<br />

Block P, Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 774 - 935<br />

Open daily 10am-5pm<br />

Museum Puri Lukisan<br />

Jl. Raya Ubud Gianyar<br />

T: 0361 975 136<br />

Open daily 8am-4pm<br />

Museum Rudana<br />

Jl. Cok Rai Pudak no. 44, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 779<br />

Natural Fibre Gallery<br />

Warung Mode Nelwan Anwar<br />

Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 742 1960, 977 995<br />

Open Space Gallery<br />

Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 289 363<br />

Tony Raka Fine Art Gallery<br />

Jl. Raya Mas no. 86, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 781 6785<br />

Sembilan Gallery<br />

Jl. AA Gede Rai, Lodtunduh, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 981 587<br />

Seniwati Gallery<br />

Jl. Sriwidari 2B, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 485<br />

Sika Contemporary Art Gallery<br />

Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 727, 975 084<br />

Widuri & Sena Gallery<br />

Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 978 008<br />

RECREATION<br />

ADVENTURE<br />

A J Hackett<br />

Jl. Double Six<br />

T: 0361 731144<br />

This bungee tower is located within<br />

Double Six club where you can night<br />

jump on weekends.<br />

Bali Adventure Tours<br />

Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran<br />

T: 0361 721 480<br />

Bali Learn to Surf<br />

Hard Rock Hotel<br />

Jl. Pantai, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 761 869<br />

Offers assorted surf classes from<br />

beginner to intermediate with<br />

private class availability.<br />

Bali Paragliders Club<br />

Kompleks Pertokoan Sudirman Agung<br />

Blok B-26, JL. P.B. Sudirman, Denpasar<br />

T: 0361 791 7873<br />

Bali Quad Discovery Tours<br />

Jl. Wirasatya VI no. 7x, Denpasar<br />

T: 0361 720 766, 808 0305<br />

Bali Treetop Adventure Park<br />

Kebun Raya Eka Karya<br />

T: 0361 852 0680<br />

Wild ziplines and acrophobia<br />

inducing obstacles will challenge<br />

even <strong>the</strong> bravest <strong>of</strong> hominids.<br />

Beate Goldschmidt<br />

PT. Habitat H2O Diving<br />

T: 0812 363 8529<br />

Dive Bali<br />

Jl. Danau Tamblingan X No. 31, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 774504<br />

Offers dive tours all across <strong>the</strong> island<br />

<strong>of</strong> Bali and Nusa Penida.<br />

Exo-Fly<br />

Timbis Beach<br />

T: 0811 393 919<br />

Offers private paragliding<br />

instruction as well as tours.<br />

Nusa Dua Dive Centre<br />

Jl. Pratama 37 XX, Tanjung Benoa<br />

T: 0361 774 711<br />

Specialises in scuba diving around<br />

Bali reefs and locations around<br />

Penida.<br />

Paddy Adventure ATV<br />

Perum Kuta Permai, Blok IV/1<br />

Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Tuban<br />

T: 0361 759 048<br />

Offers daring ATV rides on <strong>the</strong><br />

foot <strong>of</strong> a mountain on different<br />

challenging terrain surfaces.<br />

Pelangi Bali Mountain Cycling<br />

Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 975 992<br />

Full service mountain biking tours<br />

through scenic Bali countryside.<br />

SeeBali Adventures<br />

Jl. Jayagiri XIX no. 2, Denpasar<br />

T: 0361 794 9693<br />

Offers ATV, Buggy and Bicycle tours<br />

in Tabanan.<br />

Sobek<br />

Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 100X<br />

Simpang Siur<br />

T: 0361 287 059<br />

Adventure service with an array <strong>of</strong><br />

tours which include cycling, hiking<br />

and whitewater rafting down <strong>the</strong><br />

Telaga Waja river.<br />

BODY AND SOUL<br />

Art <strong>of</strong> Pilates<br />

Jl. Merta Sari, Gg Pribadi no. 1<br />

Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 877 4094<br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>essional pilates classes taught<br />

by <strong>the</strong> expert and ever so lovely<br />

Gemma.<br />

Bikram Yoga<br />

Istana Kuta Galleria Blk VL no. 12<br />

Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 769 040<br />

This Jakarta based company teaches<br />

Bikram yoga in a “hot” studio and is<br />

touted as being for everyone.


Desa Seni<br />

Jl. Kayu Putih #13<br />

Pantai Berawa, Canggu<br />

T: 0361 844 6392<br />

A large assortment <strong>of</strong> yoga and<br />

wellness classes are <strong>of</strong>fered in a lush<br />

beautiful setting for a flat monthly<br />

fee.<br />

Iyengar Yoga<br />

Jl. Drupadi I no.7, Seminyak<br />

T: 0812 381 1507<br />

Local celebrity yoga teacher Olop<br />

teaches a more athletic iyengar<br />

yoga experience in a studio<br />

surrounded by trees and animals<br />

alike.<br />

Manik Organik Yoga<br />

Jl. Danau Tamblingan 85, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 855 3380<br />

Many classes <strong>of</strong>fered with many<br />

different philosophies that range<br />

between beginner to teacher level.<br />

Sunset Fitness<br />

Jl. Sunset Road no. 1828, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 888 7026<br />

The facility <strong>of</strong>fers Les Mills group<br />

fitness, a cardio <strong>the</strong>atre, personal<br />

training, boot camps, teen blasts,<br />

detoxification programmes, weight<br />

challenges, general nutrition, and<br />

more.<br />

Sunset Pilates<br />

Jl. Dewi Sri no.98, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 791 4127<br />

Bali’s first pilates studio <strong>of</strong>fers<br />

numerous classes taught by<br />

pr<strong>of</strong>essionals.<br />

Yoga Barn<br />

Jl Pengosekan, Padang Tegal, Ubud<br />

T: 0361 971 236<br />

This extensive wellness centre<br />

<strong>of</strong>fers a plethora <strong>of</strong> classes from tai<br />

chi to energy flow to “tight white<br />

guy” yoga.<br />

Yoga Shala<br />

Jl. Raya Kerobokan Kelod 10, Seminyak<br />

T: 0361 735 202<br />

Gently paced classed taught by a<br />

variety <strong>of</strong> teachers expertly trained<br />

in hatha yoga in <strong>the</strong> iyengar style.<br />

LEISURE<br />

Air Bali<br />

Dewa Ruci Building<br />

Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 207 7788<br />

Offers aerial tours, private charter<br />

and emergency evacuations.<br />

Bali Beach Golf Course<br />

Jl. Hangtuah No 58, Sanur<br />

T: 0361 287 733<br />

Bali Golf & Country Club<br />

Kawasan Wisata Nusa Dua<br />

T: 0361 771 791<br />

Bali Handara Kosaido Country<br />

Club<br />

Bedugul<br />

T: 0361 22 646<br />

Bali Hai Cruises<br />

Benoa Harbour<br />

T: 0361 720 331<br />

Bali Horse Riding<br />

Jl. Diponegoro 150 B-12, Denpasar<br />

T: 0361 238 759<br />

Club Aqua<br />

Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai no.5<br />

Padang Galak<br />

T: 0361 281 408<br />

Fishing Bali<br />

T: 0361 774 504<br />

Fishing service that <strong>of</strong>fers trolling<br />

for pelagic game species <strong>of</strong> fish with<br />

negotiable prices.<br />

Island Horse<br />

Jl. Legian Kelod, Komplek Pertokoan<br />

LaWaloon<br />

T: 0361 761 907<br />

Beautiful sunset rides along <strong>the</strong><br />

beach near Tanah Lot.<br />

New Kuta Golf<br />

Kawasan Pecatu Indah Resort<br />

Jl. Raya Uluwatu Pecatu, Jimbaran<br />

T: 0361 848 1333<br />

Nirwana Golf Club<br />

Jl. Raya Tanah Lot, Kediri<br />

T: 0361 815 960<br />

Odyssey Submarine Bali<br />

T: 0361 759 777, 759 888<br />

Quicksilver Bali<br />

T: 0361 721 521<br />

The Pamela Catamaran<br />

T: 0361 730 022<br />

Stunning 30-foot catamaran that<br />

<strong>of</strong>fers game fishing and pleasure<br />

cruises that are all inclusive.<br />

Waka Land Cruises<br />

Jl Padang Kartika 5 X<br />

Padang Sambian<br />

T: 0361 426 972<br />

Travel on legendary land rovers<br />

along <strong>the</strong> scenic backwoods <strong>of</strong> Bali.<br />

Waterbom<br />

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta<br />

T: 0361 755 676<br />

Bali’s premiere water park <strong>of</strong>fers<br />

a vast array <strong>of</strong> slides, games, food,<br />

and a lazy river.<br />

PARKS<br />

Bali Bird Park<br />

Jl. Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir<br />

Singapadu, Batubulan<br />

T: 0361 299 352<br />

Bali Elephant Park<br />

Denpasar<br />

T: 0361 256 780<br />

Bali Elephant Safari Park & Lodge<br />

Jl. Elephant Park Taro, Tegallalang<br />

T: 0361 721 480<br />

Bali Safari & Marine Park<br />

Jl. Bypass Pr<strong>of</strong>. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra<br />

km 19,8, Gianyar<br />

T: 0361 950 000<br />

Bali Zoo<br />

Jl Raya Singapadu<br />

T: 0361 294 357<br />

Rimba Reptile Park<br />

Jl. Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir,<br />

Singapadu, Batubulan<br />

T: 0361 299 344<br />

85


scribbles reviews peter stephenson<br />

Martini: A Memoir<br />

Frank Moorhouse, Vintage, 2007<br />

There’s nothing quite<br />

like a book with<br />

an identity crisis,<br />

or ra<strong>the</strong>r one that<br />

ignores conventions<br />

to blaze its own<br />

idiosyncratic trails to<br />

subject matter that is<br />

messy and resistant<br />

to <strong>the</strong> single prong;<br />

and rare is <strong>the</strong><br />

writer so willing to<br />

lay bare his own<br />

contradictions and<br />

foibles, and confess<br />

his past misdemeanours, that his honesty – no<br />

matter how painful at times – confronts us with<br />

<strong>the</strong> spectre <strong>of</strong> our lack <strong>of</strong> it.<br />

The thing that simultaneously supplies<br />

this book’s vortex and allows for <strong>the</strong> prospect<br />

<strong>of</strong> its delicious dissipation is, as <strong>the</strong> title<br />

suggests, <strong>the</strong> martini: a cocktail comprising<br />

<strong>of</strong> – essentially – gin, vermouth, and an olive<br />

or twist <strong>of</strong> lemon rind, married toge<strong>the</strong>r in<br />

<strong>the</strong> chill <strong>of</strong> ice, and served in <strong>the</strong> stemmed<br />

cone <strong>of</strong> a classic glass. The inexact alchemy<br />

<strong>of</strong> balancing <strong>the</strong>se basic ingredients and <strong>the</strong><br />

eternal, joyous but ultimately melancholy,<br />

search for <strong>the</strong> perfect blend can be read as a<br />

guiding metaphor for a life that has always<br />

followed <strong>the</strong> heart. But it is also a treatise with<br />

an earnest and straightforward mission: to<br />

restore vermouth – an ingredient increasingly<br />

banished from <strong>the</strong> equation – to a more<br />

honourable companionship with gin; five parts<br />

gin to one part vermouth, to be exact. The only<br />

problem is where to keep this book: by <strong>the</strong> bed<br />

or on <strong>the</strong> cocktail cabinet?<br />

Frank Moorhouse will be a guest at this year’s Ubud Writers and Readers<br />

Festival in October. An event with martinis is rumoured.<br />

86<br />

My Journey from Paris to Java<br />

Honore de Balzac, Didier Millet, 2010<br />

Here in <strong>the</strong> first published English translation <strong>of</strong> a<br />

short work from 1832, <strong>the</strong> pioneer <strong>of</strong> literary realism<br />

and chronicler <strong>of</strong> early 19th century France, Honore de<br />

Balzac, makes an imaginary voyage to Java, satirising<br />

<strong>the</strong> tall-tale-laden travelogues – <strong>the</strong>n in vogue – by<br />

introducing <strong>the</strong> reader to poison-exhaling trees among<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r wonders, including women whose legendary<br />

beauty and charm lure men to a certain yet blissful<br />

death in <strong>the</strong>ir vampiric embrace.<br />

En route, ever-cheeky Balzac uses <strong>the</strong> device <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

traveller’s reminiscence to critique French high society.<br />

The only misstep in this o<strong>the</strong>rwise attractive volume is<br />

<strong>the</strong> decision to include a number <strong>of</strong> early photographs<br />

<strong>of</strong> actual Javanese women, which seems, to me, to miss<br />

<strong>the</strong> point <strong>of</strong> its playfully fanciful intentions.<br />

Island <strong>of</strong> Demons<br />

Nigel Barley, Monsoon, 2009<br />

More than 60 years after his tragic death, <strong>the</strong> Germanborn<br />

painter and cultural interlocutor Walter Spies<br />

remains everyone’s favourite Bali expat. He is someone<br />

whose influence on <strong>the</strong> way Bali is presented and<br />

understood is undeniable, but difficult to quantify.<br />

This novelisation <strong>of</strong> his life, as told through <strong>the</strong> eyes <strong>of</strong><br />

his friend artist Rudolf Bonnet, allows Barley to draw<br />

toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> big picture from <strong>the</strong> fragments he left<br />

behind and to go where purely non-fictional historical<br />

accounts <strong>of</strong>ten fear to tread; chiefly, into <strong>the</strong> realm<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> imagination to explore why Spies continues to<br />

inspire such fascination.<br />

The Bus Driver Who Wanted to<br />

be God and O<strong>the</strong>r Stories<br />

Etgar Keret, Toby Press, 2004<br />

The vision <strong>of</strong> Israel refracted through <strong>the</strong>se warped and<br />

lustrous pearls, most no more than four pages long,<br />

should remind us not to make <strong>the</strong> easy assumption<br />

that all Israelis support <strong>the</strong>ir nation’s belligerence.<br />

It also <strong>of</strong>fers evidence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> superior power <strong>of</strong><br />

surrealism; here by turns comically absurd and jagged,<br />

to tell us more about <strong>the</strong> everyday realities <strong>of</strong> that<br />

nation’s tormented psyche and its core contradictions,<br />

an impact stronger than realism could ever manage.<br />

Each story is stunning and playfully realised,<br />

written in language that is always simple but laden<br />

with portent. Three have also appeared as graphic<br />

novellas in <strong>the</strong> collection “Jetlag”.<br />

Etgar Keret will be a guest at this year’s Ubud Writers<br />

and Readers Festival in October.


last but not least<br />

88<br />

dewa<br />

budjana<br />

having rightfully earned<br />

his place as one <strong>of</strong><br />

indonesia’s guitar heroes,<br />

he needs no introduction.<br />

this month, bali-native dewa<br />

budjana shares his musical<br />

finesse at <strong>the</strong> third annual<br />

gempita gianyar festival on<br />

july 2 – a harmonisation <strong>of</strong><br />

culture, art and music – and<br />

gives hellobali his two cents<br />

A perfect morning for me is<br />

waking up to my son’s morning greetings<br />

and <strong>the</strong>n walking around <strong>the</strong> house or<br />

cycling with <strong>the</strong> kids, before finally having<br />

breakfast on <strong>the</strong> terrace. I <strong>of</strong>ten miss<br />

this when I am on tour.<br />

I always smile all <strong>the</strong> time.<br />

I jump out <strong>of</strong> my seat when…<br />

well, I haven’t done this yet, actually.<br />

I give a thumbs up to culture, and<br />

everyone who genuinely cares about it.<br />

I cannot help but admire<br />

<strong>the</strong> Majapahit site in Trowulan.<br />

I cannot help but dislike<br />

issues on terrorism.<br />

I can never give up creating music.<br />

I cannot get enough guitar practice.<br />

I would give up everything for my family.<br />

My perfect home is my hometown<br />

[Klungkung].<br />

The perfect man for me is…<br />

nobody. Nobody’s perfect.<br />

The perfect woman for me is,<br />

again, non-existent. Nobody’s perfect!<br />

The smell <strong>of</strong> be pindang and sambal<br />

bawang always reminds me <strong>of</strong><br />

my hometown.<br />

If I had a million dollars, I would<br />

build a guitar museum.<br />

If I could go back in time, I would<br />

go to ancient Bali.<br />

If I could go to <strong>the</strong> future, I would<br />

be a better person.<br />

Three things I would like to say to<br />

my younger self:<br />

1. Learn to play <strong>the</strong> piano.<br />

2. Play gamelan and practice<br />

Balinese dance.<br />

3. Go study abroad at a music school.<br />

My first childhood memory was<br />

when our family first moved from Sumba<br />

to Bali. On <strong>the</strong> ship to Bali, everybody was<br />

asleep and I almost jumped overboard<br />

into <strong>the</strong> sea, but luckily, my dad suddenly<br />

awoke and saved me.<br />

A perfect book for me is<br />

“Bhagavad Gita”, a sacred Hindu scripture.<br />

I moved to Bali because it is different<br />

from all <strong>of</strong> Indonesia.<br />

A perfect holiday for me is<br />

when I have absolutely nothing to do.<br />

A perfect life for me is <strong>the</strong> one<br />

I have now with my family.<br />

I think in 2050 <strong>the</strong> world will be<br />

ei<strong>the</strong>r overloaded or completely null.<br />

I think celebrity gossip is overrated<br />

because people need to live <strong>the</strong>ir own<br />

lives and respect <strong>the</strong> privacy <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />

I lie when I’m performing and<br />

I forget guitar chords.<br />

My perfect Bali is pre-1960’s.<br />

The one word that best describes<br />

me is guitar. •

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