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LIVE THE LUXE LIFE<br />

IN BALTIMORE<br />

1 to 3 bedroom condominiums from $499,000 to over $3 Million<br />

DOWNTOWN RESIDENCES WITH WORLD-CLASS SERVICES AND RESORT-STYLE AMENITIES<br />

24-Hour Concierge<br />

Valet Parking<br />

Spa† & Fitness Center<br />

Gourmet Dining†<br />

Indoor Pool & Saunas<br />

Private Gardens<br />

Valet Dry Cleaning†<br />

Pet Sitting†<br />

Deepwater Marina†<br />

Screening Room<br />

Game & Billiards Room<br />

Housekeeping†<br />

Immediate Occupancy 888.573.2351 RCR-Baltimore.com 801 Key Highway, Baltimore, Maryland 21230<br />

The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Inner Harbor, Baltimore are not owned, developed or sold by The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C. An affiliate of RXR<br />

Realty LLC uses The Ritz-Carlton marks under license from The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company L.L.C. This is neither an offer to sell nor a solicitation to<br />

buy to residents in states where registration requirements have not been fulfilled. MHBR No. 4096. An RXR Realty development. †Services provided<br />

by third-party companies are paid a la carte by the resident who requests the service.


FEATURES<br />

CONTENTS<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> ISSUE 086<br />

030//THE FESTIVE SEASON<br />

Rock out at this summer’s hottest music festivals—from<br />

classical to electronic to jazz. We explore the ins and outs of<br />

lineups, crowdsurfing, gear and festival food.<br />

040//COUNTRY ROAD<br />

Virginia’s Crooked Road is where time stands still—fiddlers<br />

fiddle, youths flat-foot at the country store on a Friday night<br />

and people celebrate the birthplace of country music—deep<br />

in Appalachia.<br />

046//SOUND TRAVELS<br />

In 1958, John Koss invented headphones, forever changing<br />

travel. As part of the in-ear experience, we give you our top<br />

100 songs—tunes to listen to while on the road and songs<br />

inspired by travel. Plus, the best in city audio tours and<br />

museum guides.<br />

BUSINESS<br />

056//CAPITOL RECORDS<br />

Festivals can’t survive on music alone—these days the big<br />

business behind summer concerts is about cross branding<br />

partnerships and vending opportunities.<br />

062//TABLE FOR ONE<br />

Every business traveler has had to do it—eating alone is an art<br />

form and one that’s getting easier with solo friendly communal<br />

tables and bar options.<br />

THIS PAGE:<br />

PHOTOGRAPH BY<br />

JIM SMITHSON<br />

ON THE COVER:<br />

PHOTOGRAPH BY<br />

JIM SMITHSON<br />

TYPE ILLUSTRATION BY<br />

OLIVIA CHANCELLOR


CONTENTS<br />

009//LET’S GO<br />

009//The top<br />

10 must-dos<br />

in Indianapolis<br />

012//This month’s<br />

greatest historic<br />

events<br />

014//Dip your<br />

toes into Mexico’s<br />

otherworldly Cenotes<br />

016//The ultimate<br />

neck rolls for the<br />

ultimate nap<br />

018//Artist inspired<br />

makeup that will<br />

turn anyone into a<br />

masterpiece<br />

020//Get a taste of<br />

some capitol cool<br />

028//Three people’s<br />

attempt to save<br />

California’s state parks<br />

053//BUSINESS<br />

These tech-y watches<br />

work double time to<br />

make your life easier<br />

110//PUZZLES<br />

Sudoku & Crossword<br />

114//THE ROOM<br />

Grand Resorts, Punta<br />

Cana, Dominican Republic<br />

SAVE IT Last May, California decided to close 70 of its state parks to save<br />

money, eliminating your access to beauties like Castle Crags, below.<br />

067//ON THE TOWN<br />

Feel like a local: We’ve uncovered the newest and most exciting<br />

restaurants, shops, trends and people in some of the cities we serve<br />

BALTIMORE, MD //067<br />

MILWAUKEE, WI//081<br />

101//MORE FOR YOU<br />

Find out how to log on to Gogo Inflight Internet (where you can access<br />

a digital version of this magazine). Also, look over AirTran Airways’<br />

programs, route map, clothing and inflight beverage offerings.<br />

THERE’S MORE//Check out the magazine at<br />

airtran.com/go or get the new Go app by scanning<br />

this code using your iPhone or iPad.<br />

GO MAGAZINE APP<br />

Download our free<br />

app at iTunes<br />

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER<br />

twitter.com/AirTranGo<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 4<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

JOIN US ON FACEBOOK<br />

facebook.com/AirTran.<br />

GoMagazine<br />

airtran.com/go<br />

EDITORIAL<br />

editorial@airtranmagazine.com<br />

Editor-in-Chief<br />

Orion Ray-Jones<br />

Executive Editor<br />

Jaime Lowe<br />

Assistant Editor<br />

Sophie-Claire Hoeller<br />

Editorial Interns<br />

Hannah Serena Goldstein<br />

Aigerim Saparova<br />

Roselyn Sebastian<br />

ART<br />

art@airtranmagazine.com<br />

Art Director<br />

Tony Judge<br />

Associate Art Director<br />

Bobby Lawhorn<br />

Photo Editor<br />

Jessie Adler<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

stephen.andrews@ink-global.com<br />

For Advertising Inquiries<br />

call toll-free 888-864-1732<br />

U.S. Group Publishing Director<br />

Steve Andrews<br />

Associate Publisher<br />

Greg Caccavale<br />

Director of Sales<br />

Tony Alexander<br />

Senior Account Managers<br />

Leslie Stockton, Matt Taylor,<br />

Banu Yilmaz<br />

Production Manager<br />

Joe Massey<br />

Production Controllers<br />

Sonam Master, Stacy Willis<br />

Marketing Manager<br />

Nikkole Wyrick<br />

INK<br />

Executive Creative Director<br />

Michael Keating<br />

Publishing Director<br />

Simon Leslie<br />

Chief Operating Officer<br />

Hugh Godsal<br />

Chief Executive<br />

Jeffrey O’Rourke<br />

Online Director<br />

Sal Lababidi<br />

SOUTHWEST AIRLINES<br />

Vice President of Marketing,<br />

Sales & Distribution<br />

Kevin Krone<br />

Director of Advertising<br />

Sandra Howard<br />

Go is published on behalf of AirTran<br />

Airways by Ink, 68 Jay Street, Suite<br />

315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 Tel: 347-294-<br />

1220 Fax: 917-591-6247<br />

© Ink All material is strictly copyright and all rights are<br />

reserved. No part of this publication <strong>may</strong> be reproduced<br />

in whole or part without the prior written permission of<br />

the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at<br />

the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Go are not<br />

necessarily those of the publisher or AirTran Airways, and<br />

AirTran Airways does not accept responsibility for advertising<br />

content. Any pictures or transparencies supplied<br />

are at the owner’s risk. Any mention of AirTran Airways or<br />

use of the AirTran Airways logo by any advertiser in this<br />

publication does not imply endorsement of that company<br />

or its products or services by AirTran Airways.


PHOTOS: CAMIRAND, VÉRONIQUE VIAL COSTUMES: DOMINIQUE LEMIEUX © 2004, <strong>2012</strong> CIRQUE DU SOLEIL ©DISNEY CDS-12-22498<br />

THE IMPOSSIBLE, POSSIBLE.<br />

Treat yourself to an evening like no other. Mesmerizing performances,<br />

breathtaking acrobatics, moving live music, stunning spectacle and sheer<br />

beauty—all combine in complete harmony to make the impossible, possible.<br />

JOIN US ONLINE<br />

For tickets, call 407.939.7328 or visit the La Nouba Box Offi ce.<br />

Ask about pricing options for adults and children.<br />

WRITTEN AND DIRECTED BY FRANCO DRAGONE Exclusively at Downtown Disney® at the Walt Disney World® Resort.<br />

@CIRQUE<br />

CIRQUEDUSOLEIL.COM/LANOUBA


YOUR LIFE IS WORTH THE TRIP.<br />

When it comes to your life, distance should never be a factor. As soon as you know you<br />

need help, come to Johns Hopkins Medicine. We’ve been innovating patient care at<br />

every point of the journey for over a century. That includes making your journey to us<br />

as easy as possible. Let us help plan your trip. The sooner, the better the outcome.<br />

PROMISEofMEDICINE.ORG


DAN SELLERS<br />

CEO Greeting<br />

Let the Summer Travel<br />

Season Begin<br />

by Gary Kelly<br />

Like many of you, I love to travel. I suppose that’s a good thing, if not a requirement, as<br />

I’ve worked for Southwest Airlines for the past 26 years. I can still remember my first flight:<br />

It was back in 1972 and, yes, it was on Southwest! These days I’m on a Southwest plane at<br />

least twice a month, and I still get as excited to travel now as I did on that first flight.<br />

When Southwest fi rst took off, only 15 percent of Americans had ever fl own on a commercial<br />

flight. Today, that number is well over 85 percent, and I’m proud of the role that Southwest has played in<br />

democratizing the skies. We acquired AirTran Airways last May, and, combined, we serve more than 100<br />

million Customers a year, taking them to nearly 100 destinations.<br />

I’m proud of the fact that Southwest carries more passengers in the domestic U.S. than any other airline.<br />

It’s deeply gratifying to play such a vital role in connecting people to the things most important in their<br />

lives. I love to hear stories from Customers who fly to see their grandkids; take their families on vacation<br />

every summer; maintain a long-distance relationship thanks to Southwest; or who simply depend on us for<br />

their weekly business travel.<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 7<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

This month promises to be<br />

an especially busy one on our<br />

planes, and I’m sure we’ll see all<br />

of the above and more onboard.<br />

As the month draws to a close,<br />

we turn our attention to pay<br />

tribute on Memorial Day to all<br />

of the brave men and women<br />

who have died fighting for our<br />

country. The holiday, originally<br />

known as Decoration Day,<br />

originated after the Civil War<br />

to honor fallen soldiers. Today,<br />

almost all of us will reflect and<br />

remember our loved ones who are<br />

no longer with us, whether they<br />

served in the military or not. And<br />

of course, the holiday serves as<br />

the unofficial start of the summer<br />

vacation season—celebrated<br />

with family gatherings, picnics,<br />

trips to the beach, fireworks,<br />

and travel.<br />

Thank you for giving us<br />

this opportunity to serve you,<br />

regardless of your reason for<br />

traveling this month. You are<br />

why we do what we do, and we<br />

look forward to continuing to<br />

connect you to the important<br />

moments in your life.<br />

Cordially,<br />

Gary Kelly<br />

Chairman, President and CEO<br />

Southwest Airlines


Indianapolis is on the move and constantly changing. If you don’t take<br />

time to explore, you never know what you might miss. We’ve got you<br />

covered. Find it with VisitIndy, your guide to what to do, where to eat<br />

and everything in between.<br />

Download the free VisitIndy app for Droid or iPhone.<br />

visitIndy.com<br />

Blog with us at doingIndy.com | @visitIndy


LET’S GO<br />

1<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 9<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

THE LIST<br />

INDIANAPOLIS<br />

Children’s Museum of Indianapolis<br />

Possibly the best children’s museum in<br />

the world, and definitely the biggest, with<br />

over 472,900-square feet, 11 cavernous<br />

galleries and more than 110,000 artifacts.<br />

Families explore and dissect everything<br />

from toy train collections and the famous<br />

Dinosphere to a working, century-old<br />

merry-go-round. You can’t miss the<br />

building—there’s a life-sized Brachiosaurus<br />

statue out front peering into the main lobby<br />

on tippy toes. childrensmuseum.org


LET'S GO<br />

THE LIST<br />

Broad Ripple<br />

Art Fair<br />

Broad Ripple,<br />

Indy’s artsy neighborhood,<br />

hosts a<br />

two-day outdoor<br />

festival (May 19-<br />

20) sponsored by<br />

the Indianapolis<br />

Art Center.<br />

The street fair<br />

is bursting with<br />

works from over<br />

225 artists and<br />

draws roughly<br />

22,000 visitors<br />

with its food,<br />

music and artistic<br />

demonstrations.<br />

indplsartcenter.org<br />

2 3The Eiteljorg Museum<br />

of American Indians<br />

and Western Art<br />

This idiosyncratic<br />

museum presents<br />

Native American<br />

and Western art,<br />

culture and history,<br />

along with other<br />

Western-themed<br />

pieces collected by<br />

Harrison Eiteljorg.<br />

This month’s Steel<br />

Ponies explores the<br />

history, art and<br />

culture of the<br />

motorcycle.<br />

Vroooom!<br />

eiteljorg.org<br />

Slippery<br />

Noodle Inn<br />

Indiana’s oldest bar<br />

opened in 1850 as a<br />

less-than-reputable<br />

establishment called<br />

Tremont House.<br />

These days, it offers<br />

live music acts seven<br />

nights a week. Visit<br />

the ancient brick<br />

building’s back music<br />

room, where bank<br />

robber John Dillinger<br />

used to hang out<br />

and, occasionally,<br />

take target practice—explaining<br />

the<br />

bullet holes.<br />

slipperynoodle.com<br />

Indianapolis<br />

Cultural Trail<br />

Calling this new bikeandpedestrian-friendly<br />

boulevard a path<br />

is like calling Route<br />

66 a road. Stretching<br />

more than seven miles<br />

through downtown<br />

Indy, it meanders past<br />

pretty much every<br />

artistic, sports and entertainment<br />

hotspot in<br />

the city. The $50 million<br />

project is decked<br />

out with extensive<br />

landscaping and<br />

eye-candy art.<br />

indyculturaltrail.org<br />

Zionsville<br />

This little hamlet<br />

just outside of<br />

Indy is almost too<br />

picturesque for<br />

words, with bricklined<br />

streets and an<br />

old-timey business<br />

district that looks<br />

like something<br />

from a Thomas<br />

Kinkade painting.<br />

You’ll find no chains<br />

here—just quirky<br />

galleries and indie<br />

boutiques offering<br />

everything from toys<br />

and chocolates to<br />

locally-made clothing.<br />

zionsvillechamber.org<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 10<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

4 5<br />

The Indy 500<br />

It’s big, it’s loud and<br />

it’s the only place to<br />

be on May 27. The<br />

96th running of the<br />

“Greatest Spectacle<br />

in Racing” always<br />

has tickets available<br />

since the centuryold<br />

Indianapolis Motor<br />

Speedway seats<br />

more than 250,000,<br />

with space for tens<br />

of thousands more<br />

in the two-and-a-half<br />

mile oval’s infield.<br />

indianapolismotorspeedway.com<br />

6 7 8 10<br />

9Gray<br />

Brothers<br />

Cafeteria<br />

Cafeterias aren’t<br />

just for lunch<br />

ladies. This familyownedestablishment,<br />

in business<br />

since 1944, is<br />

different. One<br />

taste of the classic<br />

entrees on its immense<br />

serving line<br />

and you’ll understand<br />

why national<br />

reviewers rave.<br />

The fried chicken<br />

is to die for, and<br />

the strawberry pie<br />

is legendary. graybrotherscatering.com<br />

Indianapolis<br />

Museum of Art<br />

Though the<br />

country’s fifthlargest<br />

art museum<br />

holds plenty of<br />

interesting pieces<br />

in its galleries, a<br />

walk through its<br />

grounds is equally<br />

captivating. In the<br />

woods, on the banks<br />

of White River,<br />

you’ll find specially<br />

commissioned<br />

sculptures and<br />

constantly changing<br />

installations.<br />

imamuseum.org<br />

Eagle Creek Park<br />

& Marina<br />

The nation’s sixth<br />

largest city park,<br />

Eagle Creek (with<br />

actual eagles),<br />

encompasses<br />

almost 4,000<br />

acres, plus a<br />

1,400-acre lake.<br />

There’s a newly installed<br />

treetop zip<br />

line, and water lovers<br />

can rent pretty<br />

much anything<br />

that floats—from<br />

canoes and Hobie<br />

Cats to pedal boats.<br />

eaglecreekpark.org<br />

—By Sam Stall


We believe<br />

a strong woman<br />

is a healthy woman.<br />

You know one of the best ways to stay healthy and strong is keeping regular<br />

doctor’s visits. But sometimes, taking good care of yourself gets pushed to the<br />

bottom of your to-do list.<br />

WellStar is here to help. Our women’s health specialists have one priority: women<br />

like you. Your WellStar physician knows you, your health and your goals. And we’ll<br />

work with you to ensure you’re getting just the care you need – from regular<br />

check-ups to mammograms to cardiac screenings – to keep you healthy through<br />

every stage of your life.<br />

To find a physician, call 770-956-STAR or visit the new wellstar.org.<br />

We believe<br />

in life well-lived.<br />

Women Newborns Pediatrics<br />

The vision of WellStar Health System is to deliver world-class healthcare. Our not-for-profit health system includes WellStar Cobb Hospital,<br />

WellStar Douglas Hospital, WellStar Kennestone Hospital, WellStar Paulding Hospital, WellStar Windy Hill Hospital and WellStar Medical Group.


LET'S GO<br />

EVENTS<br />

May<br />

Hear ye, hear ye! I prithee thou listens to this<br />

humble town crier’s proclamations. Memorial<br />

Day loometh, and in memoriam of this holy day of<br />

remembrance of timeth pasteth—and at the behest<br />

of our king, ahem, editor-in-chief—we presenteth<br />

thou with a scroll of the grandest historic events<br />

across this fair country. Doth thou read this, thou<br />

shalt henceforth be privy to events fit for a king.<br />

THROUGH MAY 27<br />

On the Air<br />

New Orleans, LA<br />

All the world’s a<br />

stage, and all the men<br />

and women merely<br />

players, n’est pas?<br />

Well, taketh a gander at<br />

these five players in On<br />

the Air, a merry musical<br />

rendition of a live WWII radio<br />

broadcast from 1945.<br />

nationalww2museum.org<br />

MAY 17<br />

National Memorial Day Concert<br />

Washington, DC<br />

These festivities hath won many an honor—hosted for<br />

the seventh year by ye favorites, Emmy Award-winner<br />

Gary Sinise (CSI: New York) and Tony Award-winner Joe<br />

Mantegna (Criminal Minds). More gaiety is provideth by a<br />

high court lineup of celebrated jesters and fiddlers such<br />

as the T he National Symphony Orchestra and the US<br />

Navy Band Sea Chanters. pbs.org<br />

MAY 24-28<br />

Garden of Flags<br />

Boston<br />

Admireth the pulchritudinous garden of<br />

flags in ye olde Boston Common during<br />

the Memorial Day weekend. This year<br />

marketh the 150th anniversary of the<br />

Civil War, which shall be honored by<br />

hundreds of volunteers earthing 33,000<br />

flags—each one representeth every<br />

brave Massachusetts service member<br />

who gaveth their lives defending this<br />

great country. mmhf.publishpath.com<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 12<br />

<br />

<br />

MAY<br />

01<br />

02<br />

03<br />

04<br />

05<br />

06<br />

07<br />

08<br />

09<br />

10<br />

11<br />

12<br />

13<br />

14<br />

15<br />

16<br />

17<br />

18<br />

19<br />

20<br />

21<br />

22<br />

23<br />

24<br />

25<br />

26<br />

27<br />

28<br />

29<br />

30<br />

31<br />

JUN<br />

01<br />

02<br />

03<br />

04<br />

<br />

<br />

... <br />

<br />

<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

ZINE ZIN ZINE Z ZINE ZI ZINE Z INE IN NE N NE<br />

MAY 5-6<br />

The Cotton Pickin’ Fair<br />

Gay, GA (40 miles from Atlanta)<br />

Taketh a trip into Georgia’s past—1910 to be<br />

specific. The Farmhouse, the Cotton Gin and the<br />

Cotton Warehouse seteth the old-school scene for<br />

some modern-day merriment. Amidst skilled artisans<br />

and antique specialists, the fair proclaimeth<br />

remnants of farm life from days gone by. Line<br />

dancers, gospel singers, fiddlers and cloggers<br />

round out this memorable merrymaking. cpfair.org<br />

MAY 28<br />

MAY 19-20<br />

Civil War Days<br />

Indianapolis<br />

The past be present at this interactive<br />

history museum. Experience<br />

what the Civil War was like at<br />

daily reenactments—with master<br />

players from across the country.<br />

Canons roareth and horses galloppeth<br />

as the battle is broughteth to<br />

life. Learne Learneth firsthand what this<br />

1860s bat battle was about from both<br />

Union U i and<br />

d Confederate soldiers.<br />

connerprairie.org<br />

connerpra<br />

National N ti l M Memorial i l<br />

Day y Parade<br />

Washington, DC<br />

Partaketh a ta et in the tthe e National<br />

at o a<br />

Memorial Day Parade,<br />

which dateth back back all all theway the way<br />

yore to the Civil War. This triple-hour trip parade<br />

allows ye ye to to observe observe current current s ssoldiers<br />

and veter-<br />

ans march in tribute to those those who died in defense<br />

of f our country—from t f th the AAme<br />

American Revolution to<br />

Operation Iraqi Freedom.<br />

nationalmemorialdayparade.com<br />

nationalmemorialdayparade.<br />

MAY 19-JUNE 10, WEEKENDS W<br />

AND<br />

MEMORIAL DAY DAY OONLY<br />

O<br />

St. Louis Rena Renaissance Faire<br />

Wentzville, W ill MO<br />

(28 miles from St. Louis)<br />

Lords and lad ladies shall haveth<br />

a grande g olde time watching<br />

knights jousting, joustin listening to jok-<br />

ers e ers telling tales, tale hearing fiddlers<br />

perform and feasting like<br />

kings. kin kkingg It’s what we like to<br />

call c everyday around<br />

here in the olde Go<br />

kingdom. renstl.org


Nightlight with a twist<br />

ExploreGeorgia.org<br />

There’s a place where, after dark, the streets sparkle with a nightlife as vibrant as the<br />

dazzling skyline above. A place where beautiful beacons frame footprints on the beach<br />

at eventide. Where family camping trips transport young and old to new frontiers of<br />

unforgettable vacation memories. That place is Georgia. ExploreGeorgia.org


MAY <strong>2012</strong> 15<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

THE STORY<br />

Cenote<br />

Worthy<br />

Sink Si S nk yyou<br />

your ou o r te teet teeth et e h in iinto to s ssom<br />

some- om o ething<br />

stunning and climb<br />

to majestic heights in this<br />

natural formation sinkhole—<br />

also known as a cenote—in<br />

Quintana Roo state of<br />

Cancun, Mexico near<br />

Chichen Itza, the pre-<br />

Columbian city built by the<br />

Mayan civilization.<br />

PHOTOGRAPH BY<br />

C. BAY MILIN<br />

HOW A SINKHOLE IS FORMED<br />

1. Water works its way through the “vadose” zone<br />

above the water table through joints and cracks<br />

in the limestone bedrock. The slightly acidic water<br />

erodes the carbonate-rich rock.<br />

2. Small passages grow into caverns as water<br />

continues to dissolve and carry away rock.<br />

3. If the cavern ceiling grows thin enough, or it<br />

otherwise can't support the weight of the rock<br />

and soil above, it collapses into a sinkhole.


LET'S GO<br />

ROUNDUP<br />

Pillow Talk<br />

Say goodbye to lolling heads and<br />

awkward naps with these perfect<br />

pillows—tried and<br />

tested by your<br />

faithful Go<br />

staff.<br />

1<br />

Comfy Commuter<br />

$40, comfycommuter.com<br />

Sophie-Claire, Assistant Editor:<br />

Wraps up into a practical satchel I’ll<br />

never get it into again. Super comfy,<br />

plus acts as a giant ear muff.<br />

Jaime, Executive Editor:<br />

Feels like an isolation apparatus<br />

but no plumpness in the back!<br />

No support equals epic fail.<br />

Tony, Art Director:<br />

Great head support with absolutely<br />

no head roll but could do with<br />

some back-of-neck padding.<br />

1<br />

2<br />

Gusto<br />

$25, bucky.com<br />

Sophie-Claire:<br />

Very easily inflatable and folds<br />

up tiny. But the lopsided shape<br />

makes me feel lopsided.<br />

Jaime:<br />

This is an awesome necklace.<br />

Why is it lopsided? Inflates easily<br />

and resembles Cookie Monster.<br />

Tony:<br />

The lopsided design doesn’t<br />

really work, and it’s too small to<br />

give any decent comfort.<br />

5<br />

2<br />

3<br />

Necker<br />

$20, insound.com<br />

Sophie-Claire:<br />

Awesome color, very sturdy and<br />

comfortable. Sure to make you<br />

the most unpopular plane patron.<br />

Jaime:<br />

I don’t want my neck rolls to<br />

make a sound...ever. The point is<br />

napping not rocking out.<br />

Tony:<br />

Hard, awkward and very pink.<br />

The speakers are guaranteed to<br />

annoy fellow passengers.<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 16<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

4<br />

3<br />

4<br />

Jet Setter Neck Pillow<br />

$135, tonichome.com<br />

Sophie-Claire:<br />

Very soft and comfortable, plus it<br />

radiates warmth. But, solid as it<br />

is, it might be hard to lug around.<br />

Jaime:<br />

Stylin’, but the stripes don’t<br />

make up for its small stature and<br />

thin support.<br />

Tony:<br />

Feels too tight around your<br />

neck, but it has great back-ofhead<br />

support.<br />

PHOTOGRAPH BY<br />

LISA SHIN<br />

5<br />

Comfort Neck Pillow<br />

$16, flight001com<br />

Sophie-Claire:<br />

A very standard neck pillow.<br />

Comfortable and light. Maybe a<br />

bit hard for my liking.<br />

Jaime:<br />

I want to have this with me<br />

everywhere I go—it’s like a<br />

heavenly cloud for your neck.<br />

Tony:<br />

So comfortable and soft that I<br />

forgot I had it on, but there isn’t<br />

much anti-head roll action.


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LET'S GO<br />

The Inspiration:<br />

“STARRY NIGHT”<br />

Edvard Munch<br />

The J. Paul Getty Museum,<br />

Los Angeles, CA<br />

The Palette:<br />

Channel a deep, mysterious<br />

vibe with smoky shades of<br />

navy and charcoal.<br />

The Inspiration:<br />

“ADELE BLOCH-BAUER’S<br />

PORTRAIT”<br />

Gustav Klimt<br />

Neue Galerie,<br />

New York, NY<br />

The Palette:<br />

Add a touch of radiance with<br />

gilded accents.<br />

The Inspiration:<br />

“BALLET AT THE PARIS<br />

OPERA”<br />

Edgar Degas<br />

The Art Institute of Chicago,<br />

Chicago, IL<br />

The Palette:<br />

Make an impression in dreamy<br />

pastels fit for a ballerina.<br />

The Inspiration:<br />

“HUMAN/NEED/DESIRE”<br />

Bruce Nauman<br />

Museum of Modern Art,<br />

New York, NY<br />

The Palette:<br />

Punch up an otherwise neutral<br />

look with an electrifying pop<br />

of neon.<br />

The Inspiration:<br />

“PORTRAIT OF A WOMAN”<br />

Amedeo Modigliani<br />

Cleveland Museum of Art,<br />

Cleveland, OH<br />

The Palette:<br />

Rosy cheeks and red lips are<br />

timelessly beautiful.<br />

BEAUTY<br />

Artful Beauty<br />

Your makeup should be a masterpiece—try these palettes that are inspired by<br />

great works of art hanging in some of our favorite museums.<br />

BY<br />

CHRISTINA KALLERY<br />

Make Up For Ever Aqua Shadow in 6E<br />

This creamy pencil delivers the perfect<br />

twilight blue. Can be worn as a liner or<br />

blended into an intense shadow. $20,<br />

sephora.com<br />

Butter London Lacquer in Royal Navy<br />

A dark navy that manages to be chic,<br />

edgy and seductive all at once. $14,<br />

butterlondon.com<br />

Oribe Gold Pomade<br />

For moments when you really want<br />

to shine, this sparkling gold pomade<br />

imparts megawatt highlights. $49,<br />

oribe.com<br />

Anastasia Beverly Hills Shimmer<br />

Highlighter in Lace<br />

Give eyes an instant wake up call with<br />

this golden pencil. $10, sephora.com<br />

Fresh Satin Luster Face Palette<br />

A trio of highlighters that can be<br />

worn alone or together for a touch of<br />

luminosity. $45, fresh.com<br />

Vincent Longo Wet/Dry Diamante<br />

Eyeshadow in Dawn Flesh<br />

This sparkling pale pink shadow glides<br />

on sheer as chiffon when dry and<br />

creamy when wet. $24, vincentlongo.com<br />

Bobbi Brown Sheer Color Lip Gloss<br />

in Citrus<br />

A glossy neon orange that goes on sheer<br />

for a subtle hit of color. $23,<br />

bobbibrowncomsetics.com<br />

Dior Vernis Nail Lacquer In Pink Graffiti<br />

and Electric Blue<br />

These supercharged shades were created<br />

with artist Anselm Reyle. $23, dior.com<br />

NYX Rouge Cream Blush in Boho Chic c<br />

Blend this onto the apples of cheeks for r<br />

a believable pink flush. The moisturizing g<br />

formula adds a bit of a dewy glow. $7,<br />

nyxcosmetics.com<br />

Aura Siren Lipstick in Tryst<br />

This red flatters almost every skin tone. .<br />

Plus, the formula feels light and supermoisturizing<br />

on lips. $22, vapourbeauty.com y.com<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 18<br />

GO MAGAZINE


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• NO SURGERY • NO GENERAL ANESTHESIA<br />

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• RETURN TO WORK IN ABOUT ONE WEEK<br />

• TYPICALLY A ONE NIGHT HOSPITAL STAY<br />

800-820-4503 OR WWW.ASK4UFE.COM/AIRTRAN FOR MORE INFO<br />

©2011 Merit Medical Systems, Inc.<br />

All rights reserved. MR11-132 Rev. B


LET'S GO<br />

Capital Cool<br />

LOCAL STYLE Aureta Thomollari is a quadruple threat,<br />

and a highly stylized one at that. The Washington,<br />

DC-based author, socialite, style blogger and<br />

luxury consultant has been bewitching the city with<br />

dreamy shots of her to-die-for outfits for years and<br />

is now a front row fashion mainstay. “My style is a<br />

mix of moods, colors and experiences,” she says. “I<br />

like mixing high-end with vintage, experimental with<br />

up-and-coming. It’s a reflection of my travels and a<br />

fingerprint of my passions. DC is known for power,<br />

but there’s also an emerging fashion scene with a<br />

constant influx of transplants into the city.” Follow<br />

her daily designer duds at aureta.typepad.com.<br />

BY SOPHIE-CLAIRE HOELLER<br />

MONA ASSEMI NECKLACE<br />

Make a statement with the<br />

locally made, bold but feminine<br />

bronze Isabel necklace.<br />

$105, monaassemi.com<br />

MONA ASSEMI NECKLACE<br />

There’s no such thing as being<br />

overdressed so add this 14<br />

karat gold-plated Wonka<br />

Necklace to accentuate the<br />

blouse’s neckline. $160,<br />

monaassemi.com I<br />

TASHIA SENN COLLECTION<br />

This local designer’s cheerful, sheer<br />

Canary Yellow Silk Georgette<br />

Blouse with Plunge-V Back can be<br />

worn straight from the boardroom<br />

to the bar. $375, tashiasenn.com<br />

TASHIA SENN COLLECTION<br />

Powerful doesn’t need to mean<br />

bland. Be the center of attention<br />

in this structured but playful<br />

Yellow & Silver Sequin Skirt.<br />

$575, tashiasenn.com<br />

MONA ASSEMI CUFFS<br />

Mixing metals is totally on<br />

trend, and the gold and silver<br />

Angled Dorian bracelets create<br />

a look dripping in luxe.<br />

$110, monaassemi.com<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 20<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

PHOTOGRAPH BY<br />

ERIK RIES


Enjoy the Southeast’s favorite family friendly<br />

sports restaurant and bar. Serving the best<br />

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LET'S GO<br />

Travel Books<br />

MATRIX<br />

BUDGET<br />

Open Road’s Best of<br />

the Florida Keys &<br />

Everglades, Bruce Morris<br />

Drive the Open Road—<br />

again—when this Florida<br />

guidebook is reissued in its<br />

sparkling fourth edition.<br />

Gorilla Beach, Nicole<br />

‘Snooki’ Polizzi<br />

Snooki gives the world<br />

a peek into the life of<br />

a Jersey Shore (55<br />

miles from New York)<br />

hedonist. Oh, wait.<br />

Summerland<br />

Summerland,<br />

mm<br />

l<br />

Elin Hilderbrand<br />

A woman loves and loses in this<br />

heartbreaking but uplifting novel<br />

set in Nantucket (89 miles<br />

from Boston).<br />

The Road to Grace,<br />

Richard Paul Evans<br />

On his multi-volume<br />

trek from Seattle to<br />

Key West, the hero<br />

of The Walk series<br />

crosses through St.<br />

Louis, among<br />

other cities.<br />

Our short and sweet summaries of summer’s finest manuscripts.<br />

Self-publishing means that nerds with unique niches have been able to circumvent big pesky publishing houses<br />

SELF-MADE and their patronizing edits to publish their passions to their hearts desire.<br />

BY AIGERIM SAPAROVA<br />

LA MIAMI CHICAGO CANCUN<br />

William J. Nash-McAdam’s rollercoaster OCD<br />

resulted in the largest theme park guide in<br />

print or online, with reviews on every ysingle g<br />

attraction, shop and<br />

restaurant in Six Flags<br />

Magic Mountain and<br />

Universal Studios<br />

Hollywood. (Infinite<br />

Guide’s Los Angeles<br />

2011, $12, lulu.com)<br />

United States of Pie:<br />

Regional Favorites<br />

from East to West<br />

and North to South, South o ,<br />

Adrienne Kanee<br />

Cross-country y<br />

travel is easy<br />

as pie in this<br />

new cookbook. k. k<br />

Lonely Planet<br />

Coastal California<br />

travel guide<br />

California is calling—<br />

answer it with a<br />

new edition of this<br />

guide to the state’s<br />

glittering coastline.<br />

The<br />

Voluntourist,<br />

Ken Budd<br />

This memoir<br />

takes you on<br />

an inspiring<br />

world tour,<br />

including to a<br />

post-Katrina<br />

New NNew<br />

w Orleans.<br />

r a<br />

INFORMATIONAL<br />

The Cottage at Glass<br />

Beach, Heather Barbieri<br />

Scandal takes a back<br />

seat to personal growth,<br />

pain and acceptance in<br />

a remote island off the<br />

coast of Maine.<br />

INSPIRATIONAL<br />

Miami Beach’s boardwalk roller-bladers<br />

have got nothing on what Julien Dubedout<br />

was able to capture in her photo book,<br />

Miami Retro, which is full of exquisite<br />

vintage, art and South Beach<br />

typography, taking us<br />

from Ocean Drive<br />

to the<br />

Art Deco<br />

($71, blurb.com) om)<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 22<br />

Memoirs of a Rugby-<br />

Playing Man, Jay<br />

Atkinson<br />

Gainesville (55 miles<br />

from Jacksonville)<br />

and LA become rugby<br />

centers in this bruising<br />

examination of the<br />

rugby world.<br />

City of Style:<br />

Exploring Los Angeles<br />

Fashion, from<br />

Bohemian to Rock,<br />

Melissa Magsaysay<br />

The City of Angels<br />

takes fanciful flight<br />

on the pages of this<br />

heavily illustrated book<br />

by the Los Angeles<br />

Times’s style editor.<br />

Soak in the greatness of Chicago without<br />

the guilt of an empty wallet with Terry<br />

Rouhandeh’s exciting g and cost-effective<br />

cost effective<br />

activities in Over 500 0 Things<br />

to t Do in the<br />

Chicagoland C<br />

Area<br />

and a Surrounding<br />

Counties C<br />

($15, (<br />

lulu.com) l<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

American Beauty,<br />

Claiborne Swanson<br />

Frank and Genevieve<br />

Bahrenburg<br />

Beautiful is right.<br />

Take in the shiny<br />

faces of America’s<br />

stylemakers in<br />

this glossy volume<br />

from Assouline.<br />

The Man Who<br />

Changed the<br />

Way We Eat:<br />

Craig Claiborne<br />

and the American<br />

Food Renaissance, ,<br />

Thomas McNamee<br />

You’ll never eat<br />

the same way<br />

again (figuratively,<br />

we mean) after<br />

reading this profile<br />

of the New York<br />

food critic Craig<br />

Claiborne.<br />

BY HANNAH SERENA GOLDSTEIN<br />

New Orleans,<br />

New Elegance,<br />

Kerri McCaffety<br />

See the Big Easy<br />

from the inside<br />

out with this<br />

new coffee table<br />

book by the local<br />

interiors expert.<br />

LUXURY<br />

Farther Away:<br />

Essays, Jonathan<br />

Franzen<br />

The luminary steps<br />

back to reflect on<br />

his life experiences,<br />

including encounters<br />

with literary peers<br />

and noteworthy<br />

travel experiences.<br />

Forget room-service hamburgers and<br />

get out of your all-inclusive resort, as<br />

wonderful as it <strong>may</strong> be. Henry Penland’s<br />

stunning photos in Cancun, Mexico is not<br />

just Resorts and Beaches aches<br />

advocates the tropical cal<br />

paradise as a haven<br />

for exploration, not<br />

relaxation.($20,<br />

amazon.com)


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Our exclusive DiamondAura jewelry features all of the classic<br />

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LET'S GO<br />

Chicago is one of the few cities whose name is derived from food—the Potowatomis called the region<br />

Chicagu after a wild onion and from there the region’s relationship to grub grew exponentially.<br />

Lou Mitchell’s (classic breakfast<br />

joint known for free donut<br />

holes) opens<br />

Hostess moves to Chicago as<br />

part of a merger with Schulze<br />

Baking Company<br />

First Jewish Vienna beef frankfurter<br />

(base for Chicago-style hot dog) served<br />

at World’s Columbian Exposition<br />

Jay’s Potato Chips is founded<br />

in Chicago<br />

“Chicago-style” deep-dish pizza is<br />

invented at Pizzeria Uno<br />

Hackney’s burgers and onion<br />

loaves opens<br />

James Beard brings the Original<br />

Pancake House and the famous<br />

Giant Apple Pancake to Chicago<br />

Tootsie Roll buys Charms, Sugar<br />

Daddies and Charleston Chews; Chicago<br />

nicknamed “Candy Capital of the World”<br />

Eli’s cheesecake debuts as the first<br />

dessert item at the Steakhouse.<br />

Birth of the jibarito, a sandwich made<br />

with flattened, fried green plantains<br />

instead of bread at Borinquen Restaurant<br />

TIME LINE<br />

DEEP DISHES<br />

BY HANNAH SERENA GOLDSTEIN<br />

▼<br />

1893<br />

1898<br />

1923<br />

1926<br />

1927<br />

1929<br />

1937<br />

1938<br />

1939<br />

1941<br />

1943<br />

1950<br />

1960<br />

1963<br />

1966<br />

1968<br />

1977<br />

1980<br />

1996<br />

2011<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 24<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

Berghoff, opens as a sandwich<br />

joint; stays opens continuously<br />

except for a two-year break<br />

First Chicago-style Jewish<br />

hot dog at Fluky’s<br />

Famous steakhouse Gene &<br />

Georgetti opens doors<br />

Inception of the Portillo’s brand,<br />

capital of all foods Chicago<br />

First annual Taste of Chicago<br />

which would become the world’s<br />

largest outdoor food festival<br />

Chewing gum magnate William<br />

Wrigley, Jr. lends his name to<br />

the famous baseball field<br />

Al’s Beef (one of Chicago’s top<br />

beef sandwich establishments)<br />

starts as a food stand<br />

Wonder Bread<br />

begins relentless<br />

nutrition campaign<br />

First Greek restaurant in<br />

Chicago opened: The Parthenon<br />

Next restaurant opens, offers<br />

tickets instead of reservations and<br />

rotates the themed menu


LET'S GO<br />

Survival<br />

of the<br />

Fittest<br />

CALIFORNIA<br />

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Let’s be real real, the Mayan<br />

apocalypse could totally<br />

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and having 1000 followers<br />

on Pinterest isn’t going to<br />

get you very far. It’s all about<br />

survival of the fittest, so<br />

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skills ski kills at these th these<br />

survival urvival schools.<br />

Tehachapi, CA (122 miles from Los Angeles)<br />

californiasurvivaltraining.com<br />

“Knowledge equals power, equals freedom” this<br />

school explains quite simply, giving you the tools<br />

for “indefinite survival.” Skills: Bow harvesting,<br />

arrow-making, stone tool-making, fire-starting,<br />

trap-setting, recognizing edible plants, cooking<br />

without utensils, herbology, cordage, waterpurifying,<br />

survival shelter construction,<br />

first aid. Course length: One to 14<br />

days. Chances of surviving the<br />

apocalypse: 9/10: You’ll be a regular<br />

Bear Grylls after this.<br />

2 ANCIENT<br />

PATHWAYS<br />

Flagstaff, AZ (152<br />

miles from Phoenix)<br />

and Phoenix<br />

apathways.com<br />

What if a pandemic<br />

breaks loose? When<br />

this school isn’t teaching<br />

wilderness survival and<br />

primitive technology to Emile Hirsch<br />

for Into The Wild their Urban Survival<br />

class teaches you how to survive in a<br />

city. Skills: Drafting emergency plans,<br />

home preparation, food and water storage,<br />

evacuation strategies, pre-disaster<br />

planning, shelter-making, fire-making,<br />

signal mirror practice, water location<br />

and purification. Course length:<br />

One to 14 days. Chances of<br />

surviving the apocalypse: 8/10:<br />

Seems like you’ll learn to hide out and<br />

survive, but what about self-defense?<br />

3THE<br />

TRACKER<br />

SCHOOL<br />

Manahawkin, NJ (65 miles to<br />

Philadelphia, 92 miles to New<br />

York City) trackerschool.com<br />

Learn from the teachings of<br />

Apache elder Stalking Wolf just like founder Tom<br />

Brown Jr did. You won’t just learn survival but the<br />

philosophy of nature. Skills: Tomahawk throwing,<br />

fishing, hunting, fire-starting, bow-making, bone and<br />

stone tool-making, mythology, chants, fish net-making,<br />

weaving, hide-tanning, basketry, canoe and kayakbuilding,<br />

clothing and footwear-creating, trap-setting,<br />

food drying and preserving, shelter building. Course<br />

length: Seven to 10 days. Chances of surviving<br />

the apocalypse: 10/10: He who understands the<br />

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4<br />

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MAY <strong>2012</strong> 26<br />

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LET'S GO<br />

Save The Parks<br />

Four months and three<br />

thousand miles inside<br />

the confi nes of a van,<br />

visiting an average of<br />

two state parks a day sounds<br />

like a lot for even the most avid<br />

of outdoorsmen—something<br />

neither Lauren Valentino nor<br />

Jarratt Moody were particularly.<br />

But, when California<br />

announced last May that it<br />

would close one quarter—that’s<br />

70—of its 279 parks by July of<br />

this year in order to save $22<br />

million a year, the two San<br />

Francisco residents knew they<br />

had to act fast.<br />

Six weeks later, they had<br />

quit their jobs and were on<br />

the road.<br />

The two had been<br />

spending most of their<br />

weekends outdoors,<br />

including at many of the<br />

parks on the fateful blacklist.<br />

“A ton of parks in the Bay<br />

Area are getting closed,<br />

so residents there are<br />

particularly aff ected.” Moody<br />

explained. “It’s unbelievable—if<br />

you’re a resident here and see<br />

that list, it’s hard not to feel like<br />

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you’re getting something taken<br />

away from you.”<br />

So they decided to make<br />

a documentary. Moody’s<br />

background in video production<br />

coupled with a friend crossing<br />

the country in a converted<br />

airport van at the time made<br />

this a natural choice. Soon,<br />

they were traversing the state,<br />

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van, recording the stunning<br />

scenery, conducting interviews<br />

and cherishing these parks’<br />

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MAY <strong>2012</strong> 28<br />

which came out on April 22<br />

(Earth Day), is not only about<br />

saving the parks—Valentino<br />

and Moody are realistic (“parks<br />

are defi nitely going to close”)—<br />

but also a means of raising<br />

awareness. “It’s not about telling<br />

people that parks are closing<br />

but that they are closing for no<br />

reason,” Valentino said.<br />

According to the activists, the<br />

measly $22 million a year saved<br />

by the state does not take local<br />

economies into consideration.<br />

Moody explains that the average<br />

park visitor spends $42 per<br />

ABOVE: Producer Lauren Valentino, Director of Photography Cory Brown (center) and Director Jarratt<br />

Moody. LEFT: Brown’s converted airport van that took the trio 3000 miles across California.<br />

BY ROSELYN SEBASTIAN<br />

BY SOPHIE-CLAIRE HOELLER<br />

When California announced that it would close 70 of its parks by July<br />

because of budget cuts, two Bay Area locals decided to take action.<br />

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day in taxable revenue (gas,<br />

groceries, etc.) “So it’s actually<br />

not going to save any money.<br />

It’s just going to ruin a lot of<br />

people’s lives for no reason. It<br />

<strong>may</strong> look good on paper, but<br />

some places, like Mendecino<br />

County, rely heavily on that<br />

income. Mendecino is very<br />

much a tourist town, and these<br />

tourists come for the parks and<br />

wilderness, so I don’t know what<br />

would happen to this county.” In<br />

fact, Mendecino isn’t alone; six<br />

entire counties are losing all of<br />

their parks come July.<br />

The First 70 is also about<br />

getting people into a room to<br />

talk about the same thing, and,<br />

ideally, fi nding ways to raise<br />

money and take action. “Nonprofi<br />

ts are overwhelmed by the<br />

idea of taking over operations<br />

in these parks, so ideally they<br />

want to fi nd ways to raise the<br />

money to be able to keep the<br />

same people who used to be in<br />

charge,” Moody said. It’s also<br />

about changing how these parks<br />

function, increasing parking<br />

revenue or day-use fees to create<br />

a sustainable income. Plus,<br />

fi nding new revenue and cost<br />

savings would protect the jobs of<br />

hundreds of park workers.<br />

“This shouldn’t be on our<br />

shoulders, to keep our parks<br />

open. The parks already rely so<br />

much on volunteers—they’re<br />

counting on about 20 million<br />

dollars worth of volunteer<br />

work—but these people need<br />

to make money. They need<br />

their own jobs,” Moody said.<br />

“California needs to get itself<br />

together and get itself out of<br />

debt,” he concedes, but argues<br />

that “the forest belongs to<br />

everybody. The government<br />

can’t deny people access to<br />

their own land.”<br />

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SUMMERFEST<br />

When: June 27-July 1, July 3-8, <strong>2012</strong><br />

(closed Monday)<br />

Where: Milwaukee<br />

What: Rock, hip hop, experimental/world<br />

Why: World’s largest music festival<br />

summerfest.com<br />

“We pride ourselves as being a<br />

festival for the people.”<br />

he world’s largest<br />

music festival (a title<br />

bestowed, offi cially,<br />

by the Guinness Book<br />

of World Records in<br />

1999), Summerfest<br />

unfolds over 11 days<br />

every June and July and attracts<br />

nearly one million fans to Henry<br />

Maier Festival Park in Milwaukee.<br />

From noon to midnight<br />

each day, festival-goers can wander<br />

between 11 stages (including<br />

the 23,000-capacity Marcus<br />

Amphitheater), sampling local<br />

food and admiring Lake Michigan’s<br />

midsummer sparkle.<br />

Unlike the scads of summer<br />

festivals focused on a single<br />

genre or demographic, Summerfest<br />

is populist at heart. Since<br />

1968, the event has hosted an<br />

extraordinary range of performers,<br />

from Led Zeppelin to Dolly<br />

Parton to Prince to Britney<br />

Spears. And while its epic lineup<br />

(700-plus bands) always includes<br />

a few high-charting pop, country<br />

and rock acts (the Beach Boys,<br />

the Zac Brown Band and Iron<br />

Maiden are already confi rmed<br />

for this year), there’s something<br />

on the roster for nearly every set<br />

of ears. Accordingly, Summerfest<br />

rewards intrepid exploration:<br />

Parking yourself in the Amphitheater<br />

each night is tempting,<br />

but don’t sleep on the smaller<br />

stages, which are often packed<br />

with up-and-comers (last year,<br />

Wiz Khalifa, Neon Trees, the<br />

Old 97s, Girl Talk, and Owl City<br />

all performed). Bob Babisch,<br />

Vice President of Entertainment<br />

for Summerfest, says that the<br />

festival is booked with a huge<br />

array of tastes in mind. “We have<br />

a very eclectic lineup. We pride<br />

ourselves as being a festival for<br />

the people, and as such we try<br />

to hit all genres of music almost<br />

every day.”<br />

Most festival sites are dismantled<br />

by the end of the weekend,<br />

but Summerfest benefi ts from<br />

having a permanent home.<br />

“As of this year, all of our main<br />

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walkways and seating areas, as<br />

well as permanent bathroom<br />

buildings. Our patrons don’t<br />

have to worry about mud or getting<br />

soaked when a storm hits,”<br />

Babisch says. He recommends<br />

showing up early to check out<br />

local talent on the smaller stages<br />

(and to snag discounted admission<br />

rates) and downloading the<br />

offi cial Summerfest app (available<br />

for iPhone and Android),<br />

which will help you plot your day<br />

in advance. Babisch’s fi nal bit of<br />

Summerfest advice? “Make sure<br />

you sample some fi ne Milwaukee<br />

beer!”


ZUMA WIRE SERVICE/ALAMY<br />

HANG TEN<br />

The best way to see the<br />

mainstage is by riding<br />

an undulating crowd—<br />

an expert rocker weighs<br />

in on the ins and outs of<br />

crowd surfing.<br />

Other than dropping $45 on a T-shirt, no<br />

concert rite of passage is as sacred as hoisting<br />

yourself above a throng of sweaty strangers<br />

and gliding across their hands like a<br />

human beach ball. Crowd surfing looks to<br />

be all impulse and chaos, but it’s actually a<br />

well-considered act of rebellion. Alex Ogg,<br />

a British journalist who cofounded Punk &<br />

PostPunk, calls it “a form of audience participation<br />

that runs contrary to the established<br />

constructs of the rock ‘n’ roll circus.” He<br />

added, “A little bit of etiquette is required<br />

therefore.” So with Ogg’s help, we present the<br />

four rules of thoughtful crowd surfing.<br />

1. GET UP<br />

After you’ve decided to surf, you must emerge<br />

from the sea. That requires either a stage dive,<br />

which won’t be easy given the demilitarized<br />

zone in front of most stages, or a boost, a far<br />

safer bet. The key, Ogg says, is to “locate the<br />

section of the audience that has demonstrated<br />

its tolerance of this practice.”<br />

2<br />

2. LET GO<br />

You’ll be easier to carry if you relax, and people<br />

will be much less likely to punch you in the<br />

spine if you’re not fl ailing about. Remember,<br />

there are human heads under you, and while<br />

crowd surfi ng is thrilling for a surfer, it’s can be<br />

painful for those underneath if “some drunk’s<br />

size 19 make unbidden association with your<br />

body parts,” Ogg says.<br />

3. STAY ALERT<br />

Like water surfi ng, crowd surfi ng often ends<br />

abruptly. Watch your surroundings and if<br />

you’re surfi ng toward a lightly populated area,<br />

get ready to jump down. Unlike water surfi ng,<br />

there’s an immoveable fl oor below you.<br />

4. DON’T BE A JERK<br />

It’s perhaps the most important part of proper<br />

crowd surfi ng, an art rooted in egalitarianism.<br />

As Ogg so dryly puts it, “Remember that you are<br />

in all probability not the spectacle the audience<br />

has come to see.”


THE<br />

ELECTRIC<br />

FOREST<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

When: June 28-July 1, <strong>2012</strong><br />

Where: Rothbury, Michigan<br />

(50 miles from Grand Rapids)<br />

What: Electronic dance music, rock<br />

Why: Involves art installations in a<br />

forest<br />

electricforestfestival.com<br />

“We believe that it’s every<br />

festival’s responsibility to make<br />

the least amount of impact on<br />

the environment as possible.”<br />

he Electric Forest<br />

Festival is a beacon<br />

for modern music acolytes<br />

with a penchant<br />

for over stimulation:<br />

For four days every<br />

summer, the Double<br />

JJ Ranch in Rothbury, MI, (175<br />

Miles from Detroit) becomes<br />

the home of over 75 jam-friendly<br />

performers and thousands of<br />

giddy, sweating fans. Although<br />

the music is paramount here—<br />

scene stalwarts the String Cheese<br />

Incident will headline, and<br />

Thievery Corporation, Bassnectar,<br />

Santigold, Major Lazer,<br />

Das Racist, Richie Hawtin,<br />

Ghostland Observatory will also<br />

perform—the Electric Forest is<br />

just as famous for its extra-musical<br />

accoutrements. The festival<br />

grounds include the famed Sherwood<br />

Forest, a wooded area<br />

sprinkled with hammocks and<br />

art installations (expect elaborate<br />

light displays and surprise sets<br />

at night by bands), which event<br />

producer Jeremy Stein proudly<br />

calls “the heart of the festival.”<br />

The Double JJ Ranch, meanwhile,<br />

features beaches, forests,<br />

trails, horseback riding, camping,<br />

a 60,000-square-foot water<br />

park and onsite lodging and restaurants,<br />

all open for exploration<br />

between sets. If you’re looking for<br />

a little friendly competition with<br />

your tent-mates—winner gets the<br />

last glow stick?—a nine-hole disc<br />

golf course will be set up on the<br />

grounds, complete with solarpowered<br />

multi-colored lights<br />

and glow-in-the-dark Frisbees,<br />

and open for play until 5am.<br />

“The festival site, the attention to<br />

artful detail everywhere you look,<br />

and the community that comes<br />

to it all make Electric Forest<br />

one of the best US festivals out<br />

there,” Keith Moseley, bassist<br />

and founding member of the<br />

String Cheese Incident, says.<br />

“We’re excited to headline it<br />

again this year.”<br />

Beyond the versatility of the<br />

grounds, the big thing at Electric<br />

Forest is sustainability. “We<br />

believe that it’s every festival’s<br />

responsibility to make the least<br />

amount of impact on the environment<br />

as possible,” Stein says.


SUMMER CAMP<br />

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WAKARUSA<br />

When: May 31-June 3<br />

Where: Mulberry Mountain, Ozark, AR<br />

(79 miles from Branson, MO)<br />

What: Rock, alternative/experimental,<br />

instrumental<br />

Why: There’s also hiking, fishing,<br />

kayaking and disc golf<br />

wakarusa.com<br />

“We’re focused on getting you on<br />

your feet to dance.”<br />

rett Mosiman’s stroke<br />

of genius wasn’t<br />

to put together a<br />

multi-day music<br />

festival in the middle<br />

of nowhere. The<br />

creators of Coachella<br />

and Bonnaroo had already<br />

done that. What Mosiman did<br />

that separated his idea from the<br />

other big-name outdoor camping<br />

festivals was that he didn’t<br />

care so much about booking<br />

commercial bands—headliners<br />

that were guarantees. He cared<br />

more about the integrity of the<br />

lineup. “We’re focused on getting<br />

you on your feet to dance,” says<br />

Mosiman, founder of the perennially<br />

underexposed Wakarusa,<br />

a four-day festival set in the<br />

Arkansas Ozarks that brings<br />

together an impressively eclectic<br />

mix of bluegrass, jam band and<br />

electronic music.<br />

“We want to have nonstop<br />

great party music.” And when<br />

he says nonstop, he’s not kidding:<br />

From the opening act on<br />

Thursday until the fi nal encore<br />

on Sunday night, the music—<br />

whether it’s the rabbit-fast<br />

picking of The Del McCroury<br />

Band or the hyper multiplicity<br />

of Girl Talk—only stops for “an<br />

hour or so every morning,” says<br />

Mosiman. “At about 8am you can<br />

get in a cup of coff ee in silence.”<br />

But because Wakarusa<br />

takes place on more than 640<br />

acres in the Ozarks (pitching<br />

a tent on one of the three<br />

campsites is strongly encouraged),<br />

silence is never that far<br />

away. There is no end to hiking<br />

trails, waterfalls and hippyfriendly<br />

activities like disc golf,<br />

costume parades, yoga classes<br />

and mid-morning hula-hoop<br />

workshops. The main draw,<br />

though, for the ever-expanding<br />

crowds (after attracting about<br />

5,000 music fans to the fi rst<br />

Wakarusa, Mosiman expects<br />

about 20- 24,000 folks per day<br />

at this year’s fest) is still all<br />

about the quality of the music.<br />

Headliners include Pretty<br />

Lights, Primus, the Weir-Robinson-Greene<br />

Acoustic Trio,<br />

G. Love and Special Sauce, the<br />

Avett Brothers, and Big Gigantic.<br />

Meanwhile, the deep list<br />

of lesser-known acts, such as<br />

Tinariwen—the Tuareg group<br />

from Mali and Blitzen Trapper,<br />

and Mad Men-theme song<br />

writer RJD2, guarantee that<br />

you’ll leave Wakarusa with a<br />

handful of new favorite bands.


MAIN SHOT: ERIK VOAKE, HEAD-SHOT: ANDREW STRASSER<br />

GIRL TALK TALKS<br />

Gregg Gillis, aka Girl Talk, has played over 89 festivals, incited dance<br />

riots, sampled thousands of tracks and inspired more flailing limbs from<br />

his laptop than just about any DJ. His rapidly shifting party tracks are a<br />

mainstay of the main stage.<br />

What’s the most eccentric festival you’ve played?<br />

I think the weirdest festival experience was at Horns N<br />

Halos, which was an event curated by Korn outside of LA.<br />

There were two main stages, and probably 30 makeshift<br />

stages and the bands playing on these stages had to sell<br />

a certain amount of tickets to perform. People were just<br />

loading gear everywhere. You couldn’t walk 10 feet without<br />

running into someone carrying equipment. Endless weird<br />

bands, endless weird vibes.<br />

I imagine you’ve seen a lot of bizarre things...what are<br />

some of the most memorable?<br />

I always have audience members come up and dance on<br />

stage. At Coachella 2007, Paris Hilton jumped up there<br />

to do her thing. That was one of my first festival performances,<br />

and it was a surreal moment. Ron Jeremy got<br />

kicked off stage while I was playing another time.<br />

Your music and performance is geared toward huge,<br />

high-energy crowds, what does it feel like to play to an<br />

audience that responds with such passion and fervor?<br />

I put together my music in a meticulous and slow manner.<br />

I’m typically alone during this process. So it’s very<br />

exciting to be able to get on stage, let loose, and watch<br />

the reaction. I always want to take the energy further<br />

than the audience if possible. I treat it like a battle.<br />

When they respond, I want to respond more.<br />

Audience members often swarm the stage...have you<br />

ever been nervous?<br />

At Bonnaroo 2009, there were way too few security<br />

guards, and the audience overtook the stage. It was a<br />

constant stream of people until the stage was completely<br />

filled—climbing on my table, on the speakers, on me,<br />

everywhere. Cables were getting unplugged. Drinks were<br />

being thrown. It was chaos.<br />

What is your favorite series of ten samples to play now?<br />

I’ve been liking a sequence based around samples of DJ<br />

Khaled’s “I’m on One,” Outkast’s “Bombs over Baghdad,”<br />

Weezer’s “El Scorcho,” Debbie Gibson’s “Only in my Dreams,”<br />

Big Daddy Kane’s “Raw,” The Cure’s “Just like Heaven,” Trillville’s<br />

“Neva Eva,” Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody,” Beyonce’s<br />

“Countdown,” and Busta Rhyme’s verse on “Look at Me Now.”<br />

What advice would you give to festival go-ers?<br />

Check out the bands you want to see. Enjoy the atmosphere.<br />

You’re at a giant party, act like it.<br />

Do you ever sneak onto other stages?<br />

I always try to get out there and take in the festivals. It’s<br />

the best part of doing them. As soon as you cross the line<br />

into the actual crowd, that’s when the fun begins. At the<br />

larger festivals, my friends and I will always go out into the<br />

campground area, walk around, check out the scene. That’s<br />

where the real party’s at.<br />

What is your strategy for navigating big festivals?<br />

Getting lost is part of the experience.<br />

What music do you listen to when you’re traveling?<br />

Current rap mixtapes from Datpiff or albums of material I’m<br />

thinking of sampling. I’m always looking for new material.<br />

What acts, dead or alive, would you have headline?<br />

Michael Jackson, Nirvana, Notorius B.I.G., 2Pac, The Beatles,<br />

James Brown, Brainiac, Queen, Soulja Slim and Beethoven.


TANGLEWOOD<br />

When: June 22-Sept. 2<br />

Where: The Berkshires (66 miles<br />

from Boston)<br />

What: Chamber music, jazz/vocal,<br />

dance<br />

Why: You can bring a picnic and<br />

dine al fresco<br />

bso.org<br />

In Tanglewood’s 80 structures, you<br />

might just stumble across the next<br />

Philip Glass or Dawn Upshaw.<br />

PERFECT PICNIC<br />

Nothing is more important at<br />

Tanglewood than what’s inside<br />

your picnic basket. Skip the<br />

ready-made menu and pick up the<br />

freshest foods from local farms<br />

and bakeries. Then unfurl the<br />

blanket and, dine under a canopy<br />

of pine while soaking in some<br />

Mendelssohn.<br />

hroughout Tanglewood’s<br />

festival season,<br />

from June 22-September<br />

6, the Boston<br />

Symphony Orchestra<br />

(BSO) will reproduce<br />

Tanglewood’s inaugural<br />

program, including<br />

Beethoven’s symphonies numbers<br />

fi ve and six (July 6) and an<br />

all-Wagner concert (July 21).<br />

“We’re picking from the festival’s<br />

great moments in time,” says<br />

Mark Volpe, the Boston Symphony’s<br />

managing director. “It’s<br />

going to be a special summer.”<br />

Tanglewood started in 1937<br />

to keep the mostly European<br />

symphony players in the BSO<br />

stateside. “Every October, 10 to<br />

15 musicians wouldn’t return<br />

from summer trips to Europe<br />

due to love or another job,” says<br />

Volpe. “So Serge Koussevitzky,<br />

the BSO’s director at the time,<br />

created the festival to provide<br />

full-time employment.” It was<br />

also an opportunity to develop<br />

the classical talent here.<br />

TAFT FARMS IN GREAT<br />

BARRINGTON<br />

The 200-acre local family<br />

farm prides itself on its<br />

organically produced fruits<br />

and vegetables, pick up<br />

produce and definitely save<br />

room for pies and cakes. Do<br />

not approach the symphony<br />

without carbo-loading.<br />

BERKSHIRE<br />

MOUNTAIN BAKERY<br />

Richard Bourdon’s Berkshire<br />

Mountain Bakery specializes<br />

in traditional loaves like<br />

Cherry Pecan, Olive, and<br />

Potato Onion. The bakery<br />

recently added a line of<br />

cookies made from sprouted<br />

whole grain spelt flour.<br />

More than 300,000 attend<br />

every summer, spreading<br />

blankets on the grounds’ 520<br />

picturesque acres in western<br />

Massachusetts’s Berkshire<br />

Hills. And as for training<br />

future generations of American<br />

musicians, Tanglewood’s<br />

student programs have paid<br />

off dramatically. “I’m biased, of<br />

course, but we’ve had Leonard<br />

Bernstein, Wynton Marsalis,<br />

Stephanie Blythe—25 or 30<br />

percent of America’s symphony<br />

orchestra players have passed<br />

through our programs,” Volpe<br />

says, which means that in some<br />

of the lesser-crowded of Tanglewood’s<br />

80 structures, you might<br />

just stumble across the next<br />

Philip Glass or Dawn Upshaw.<br />

This year’s giants include<br />

three James Taylor shows with<br />

the Boston Pops over Independence<br />

Day weekend and a tribute<br />

to conductor John Williams<br />

(composer of the fi lm scores for<br />

Jaws, Star Wars and Superman,<br />

to name a few) on August 18. “We<br />

expect some signifi cant surprise<br />

guests from Hollywood for that<br />

performance,” says a tight-lipped<br />

Volpe. “There’s always something<br />

exciting.”<br />

Festival tickets are already<br />

on sale, and many of the covered<br />

seats for big-name shows, such<br />

as Taylor and Yo-Yo Ma, have<br />

a tendency to sell out quickly.<br />

But Volpe encourages folks to<br />

come out anyway, since lawn<br />

seats surrounding the main<br />

stages—Ozawa Hall and Tanglewood<br />

Shed—are almost always<br />

available. Open rehearsal tickets<br />

are also available to the public,<br />

including the practice session<br />

for the Sunday afternoon concert<br />

on Saturday mornings at 10:30<br />

(from $10).<br />

And to get in the mood on<br />

your plane ride there, download<br />

previous concerts. Tanglewood<br />

is making 75 past performances<br />

available online—one per day—<br />

that you can download for free 24<br />

hours before it’s listed on iTunes.<br />

(bso.org)<br />

GUIDO’S IN<br />

GREAT BARRINGTON<br />

Pair Marketplace Kitchen’s<br />

hand-cut cheeses—ranging<br />

from American Artisanals<br />

TANGLEWOOD_MOD<br />

like Cypress Grove’s Midnight<br />

Moon Gouda with local<br />

wines. Do not leave without<br />

charcuterie and sandwiches<br />

and the famous chicken. TANGLEWOOD:


CHICAGO<br />

JAZZ<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

When: August 30-Sept. 2<br />

Where: Chicago<br />

What: Jazz<br />

Why: Has been going on since 1979<br />

jazzinchicago.org/jazzfest<br />

“The city is so plentiful with jazz<br />

artists that we’re able to program<br />

approximately 50 percent of the<br />

line-up with local talent.”<br />

MAY 18-20<br />

BAYOU BOOGALOO<br />

NEW ORLEANS, LA<br />

From the banks of the scenic<br />

Bayou St. John, this three-day<br />

music festival celebrates New<br />

Orleans. Oh, and admission is<br />

completely free!<br />

thebayouboogaloo.com<br />

JULY 6-8<br />

ESSENCE MUSIC FESTIVAL<br />

NEW ORLEANS, LA<br />

Hate to name-drop but...Aretha<br />

Franklin, Mary J. Blige and<br />

Congresswoman Maxine Waters<br />

are among the performers<br />

at this year’s Essence Music<br />

Festival. essence.com<br />

very Labor Day<br />

weekend since 1979,<br />

Chicago’s Grant Park<br />

has hosted the Chicago<br />

Jazz Festival, a<br />

three-day celebration<br />

of the city’s storied<br />

jazz heritage. The lineup, which<br />

is decided each year by a committee<br />

from the Jazz Institute<br />

of Chicago, is specifi cally<br />

designed to emphasize local<br />

performers—which isn’t much<br />

of a challenge, given Chicago’s<br />

abundance of homegrown stars.<br />

“The city is so plentiful with jazz<br />

artists that we’re able to program<br />

approximately 50 percent of the<br />

lineup with local talent, [which<br />

performs] alongside the national<br />

and international names,”<br />

Festival Coordinator Jennifer<br />

Johnson Washington explains.<br />

In past years, that’s included celebrated<br />

non-Chicagoans like Ravi<br />

Coltrane, Roy Hargrove and Cassandra<br />

Wilson. Aaron Cohen,<br />

reviews editor of the venerable—and<br />

Chicago-based—jazz<br />

THE BEST OF THE REST OF THE FESTS<br />

MAY 25-28<br />

SASQUATCH THE GORGE, GEORGE,<br />

WA (121 MILES FROM SEATTLE)<br />

Gorge Amphitheatre will be<br />

hosting this year’s festival and<br />

will include performances by<br />

Jack White, Beck, Bon Iver,<br />

Santigold, Beirut and more.<br />

sasquatchfestival.com<br />

JULY 12-14<br />

CAMP BISCO ELEVEN MARIAVILLE,<br />

NY (123 MILES FROM WHITE PLAINS)<br />

Picture 200 acres of rolling,<br />

green fields at the Indian Lookout<br />

Country Club and two main<br />

stages, two dance tents, a silent<br />

disco, and an “up & coming”<br />

stage. campbisco.net<br />

MAY 27-28<br />

26TH JAZZREGGAE FESTIVAL<br />

LOS ANGELES, CA<br />

From the totally minds of UCLA<br />

students to the ears of music<br />

lovers everywhere, the JazzRaggae<br />

Festival has become the<br />

largest student-run festival.<br />

jazzreggaefest.com<br />

JULY 28-29<br />

NEWPORT FOLK FESTIVAL<br />

NEWPORT, RI (62 MILES FROM BOSTON)<br />

Known for introducing unknowns<br />

who went on to make it big—like<br />

say, Bob Dylan and Joan Baez—<br />

this year’s festival includes<br />

Jackson Brown and Conor Oberst.<br />

newportfolkfest.net<br />

magazine DownBeat, agrees:<br />

“The Chicago Jazz Festival has<br />

always been crucial for promoting<br />

the music’s history,” Cohen<br />

says. “And that’s in addition to<br />

bringing the biggest stars and<br />

legends of the music to a wide<br />

and diverse audience. Being free<br />

and mostly outdoors, the event<br />

reaches people who are unable<br />

to go to clubs or pay for concert<br />

tickets.” Cohen, who grew up<br />

in the Chicago area, recalls seeing<br />

legends like Dizzy Gillespie,<br />

Miles Davis and Sonny Rollins at<br />

JUNE 19-22<br />

ALL GOOD MUSIC FESTIVAL<br />

LEGEND VALLEY, THORNVILLE, OH<br />

(31 MILES FROM COLUMBUS)<br />

This year’s lineup includes the<br />

Allman Brothers Band, Branford<br />

Marsalis, The Flaming Lips, Lotus,<br />

G. Love & Special Sauce, and<br />

many more. allgoodfestival.com<br />

AUG 10-12<br />

OUTSIDE LANDS SAN FRANCISCO, CA<br />

With performances in a number<br />

of unique musical genres,<br />

delicious local food, beautiful<br />

art, and wine straight from the<br />

fountain of napa, two days seem<br />

to be far too little time to absorb<br />

it all. sfoutsidelands.com<br />

the festival when he<br />

was a kid and<br />

believes those performances<br />

inspire his work.<br />

Washington touts the festival’s<br />

easy-to-manage size as one<br />

of its best features. “That’s the<br />

beauty of it,” she says. “The four<br />

stages are relatively close together<br />

but not so close that they have<br />

sound bleed.” Washington suggests<br />

The Chicago Community<br />

Trust’s Young Jazz Lions stage<br />

as a particular must-see for anyone<br />

interested in checking out<br />

up-and-coming performers: “It<br />

features the future of jazz music,<br />

as it highlights high school and<br />

college ensembles—so that’s not<br />

to be missed.”<br />

Cohen also plugged the<br />

festival’s non-headlining sets.<br />

“The side stages have become<br />

a means for younger Chicago<br />

musicians to present projects<br />

that are their own twists on this<br />

city’s jazz legacy—like clarinetist<br />

James Falzone’s reinterpretation<br />

of Benny Goodman’s themes,<br />

or cornetist Josh Berman’s<br />

take on the music of the Austin<br />

High Gang, who performed jazz<br />

on the city’s West Side in the<br />

1920s,” he says. “The resulting<br />

performances and compositions<br />

from these residences have<br />

become Chicago history in and<br />

of themselves.”<br />

JUNE 23-24<br />

THE GOVERNOR’S BALL<br />

MUSIC FESTIVAL<br />

RANDALL’S ISLAND, NY<br />

This year’s Governor’s Ball<br />

features Passion Pit, Duck<br />

Sauce, Major Lazer and indie<br />

bigs Beck and Modest Mouse.<br />

governorsballmusicfestival.com<br />

SEPT 1-3<br />

BUMBERSHOOT SEATTLE, WA<br />

The word “bumbershoot,” which<br />

means “umbrella,” is apt. The<br />

festival includes theatre, comedy,<br />

dance and music. Celebrate<br />

with a crowd of over 100,000 at<br />

the largest urban arts festival.<br />

bumbershoot.org


MAY <strong>2012</strong> 40<br />

GO MAGAZINE


VIRGINIA’S CROOKED ROAD—HOME TO<br />

SPONTANEOUS BLUE GRASS JAMS, THE CARTER<br />

FAMILY FOLD AND FURIOUS FIDDLING—<br />

IS APPALACHIA’S MUSICAL LEGACY.<br />

BY<br />

CLAY LATIMER<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY<br />

BRENT CLARK


It’s 8 o’clock on a Friday night, and the weekly hoedown is<br />

in full swing at the Country General Store in Floyd, a onestoplight<br />

town in southwestern Virginia’s Appalachian<br />

mountains. On a wooden fl oor smoothed by generations of<br />

feet, a string-bean fella in a feed-store cap is two-stepping<br />

to the jaunty beat of a local string band, which could have<br />

stepped right out of the 1940s. A few feet away, a young girl<br />

with blond curls and shoes with metal taps adds a percussive<br />

echo to the old tunes, thumping her heels and toes with<br />

dizzying speed. With the next screech of the fi ddle, 75-yearold<br />

Leo Weddle waltzes into the pack, turning and spinning<br />

his partner with a loose-jointed grace. “I learned my dancin’<br />

right here on this fl oor,” says Weddle, who’s dressed in bib<br />

overalls and a tattered mountaineer hat.<br />

Welcome to the Friday Night Jamboree at Floyd’s<br />

Country General Store, where the hillbilly twang is the<br />

real thing, the fi ddlers are fi nger-pickin’ good, and the 19th<br />

century seems to linger just out of sight, in the world’s oldest<br />

mountains. The gathering is just one of many on the<br />

Crooked Road Music Trail, 253 miles of linked<br />

highways and back roads that wind through the<br />

mountains and back through the years. The<br />

state of Virginia stitched together the route in<br />

2003 to showcase well-known concert venues<br />

and musical attractions, turning the Appalachian musical<br />

community into not just a scenic destination but a place<br />

that takes you back in time.<br />

The Crooked Road begins near the Kentucky line<br />

(128 miles from Charleston, WV), in coal country, near<br />

the dark hollows that gave birth to the haunting melodies<br />

and raw plaintive harmonies of Ralph Stanley and the<br />

Carter Family. It winds around to the city of Bristol, where<br />

seminal recordings in the 1920s launched country music<br />

as an industry. The road meanders to Galax, whose Old<br />

Fiddlers Convention draws as many as 40,000 visitors<br />

every August. It ends eastward in the rolling hills around<br />

the towns of Floyd and Franklin (133 miles from Raleigh),<br />

where the deepest roots of mountain music can be traced<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 42<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

to the ballads of the fi rst Scottish and Irish settlers. For Bill<br />

Smith, the Crooked Road’s fi rst executive director, the old<br />

songs and sounds seem almost sacramental. “This is the<br />

true vine,” he says.<br />

In February, I took a 500-mile drive that started with a<br />

fl ight to Raleigh and swept through the scenic heart of the<br />

Appalachians. Floyd, a tiny town where music lilts through<br />

the Appalachian air is home to some key blue grass notes:<br />

County Records, one of the world’s largest retailers of old<br />

time and bluegrass music, cafés built for spontaneous jam<br />

sessions, and storefronts that house fi ddling classes for toddlers<br />

and teens. “The passion for the music and heritage<br />

is all-encompassing,’’ says Conni Mitchell, co-owner of<br />

Mitchell Music Company. “I don’t think you can separate<br />

the music from day-to-day life. Most kids have had an<br />

instrument in their hands since they could sit up.’’<br />

But the best place to be on any given Friday in these<br />

parts is the Country General Store, which opened for<br />

business more than a century ago. Most days, the white<br />

clapboard store is a quiet place, selling overalls and penny<br />

candy. At nightfall on Friday, however, visitors stream into<br />

the warmly-lit building to stomp their feet to high-spirited<br />

picking, chat and <strong>may</strong>be buy a couple scoops of oldfashioned<br />

ice cream.<br />

“It gives you a sense of home,” says Erica Olsen, a<br />

local musician. “It’s like walking into a big piece of apple<br />

pie. There are no wallfl owers. Everyone knows the songs<br />

and moves.” In warm weather, the large crowd spills<br />

out the doorways and onto the surrounding streets and<br />

into the alleyways. Full of musical spontaneity, pickers<br />

form jamming sessions, fi nding their way into, around<br />

and back out of tunes together. Eventually the evening<br />

begins to wind down, folks pile into cars and trucks, and<br />

Floyd grows calm like the surrounding hills.<br />

The next day, a mild Saturday morning, I part the<br />

drapes for a picture-perfect view of the dense forest<br />

surrounding the Mountain Rose Inn, a secluded retreat for<br />

Crooked Road travelers. Occasionally, the twanging of a


TWO-STEP: Flat foot your way through Appalachia along Virginia’s Heritage Crooked Road where country music was born and where fiddle-pickers and late night jamborees still<br />

provide the soundtrack for summer nights and moonshine days.


HERITAGE FOUNDATION: The crooked road takes pride in its hillbilly roots, raising families with banjo lessons, luthier apprenticeships and country dance steps. This region is where<br />

American culture was born and where time stands still. Even the general store still sells penny candy and bib overalls.


anjo, coming from the front porch, breaks the silence.<br />

“The music never stops on the Crooked Road,” Smith<br />

says. Driving deeper into the Appalachians, I decide<br />

to take the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway, a New Deal-era<br />

highway project. In pre-Columbian times, big-game<br />

hunters lived in these mountains, and later the Cherokee,<br />

Iroquois and Catawba Indians ruled the region.<br />

In the 18th century, European settlers from Ireland,<br />

Scotland, Wales and England began to pour into the<br />

Appalachians, bringing with them instruments and jigs,<br />

reels, ballads and hymns. Eventually, American music<br />

took hold evolving over time into old-time, bluegrass<br />

and country. “A lot of them old people loved these old<br />

mountains and their music. And when you’re born<br />

and raised here, you don’t want to leave,” says Jack H.<br />

Branch, an 86-year-old luthier (instrument maker) who<br />

lives near Bristol.<br />

I continue down corkscrew roads into Galax, where<br />

you can stroll down Main Street from the old Rex<br />

Theater, with its weekly broadcast of live bluegrass,<br />

to Tom Barr’s Fiddle Ship, where the store’s namesake<br />

creates gorgeous handcrafted fi ddles, banjos and dulcimers.<br />

World-class instrument-makers who hand down<br />

their craft from generation to generation are common<br />

along the Crooked Road. Few are as successful as<br />

Branch, a World War II veteran who began building<br />

fi ddles and other stringed instruments at 54. In his workroom<br />

adjacent to his home, Branch has built more than<br />

200 fi ddles, violins and basses.<br />

“I’m an old hillbilly. I was born and raised in these<br />

mountains. I cure my own meat. I make my own wine. I<br />

make my own instruments,” he says.<br />

Galax is also legendary as the home of the Old Fiddler’s<br />

Convention, which every August swells the town’s<br />

population for a week. The fi rst convention was held in<br />

1935, making it one of the largest and oldest mountain<br />

music festivals. With $20,000 in cash, as well as trophies<br />

and ribbons on the line, local, regional and international<br />

musicians compete in categories like autoharp,<br />

fl at dancing and banjo. Veteran festival-goers claim the<br />

best time is at night, when fans begin to drift away from<br />

the stage to a vast campground to make music of their<br />

own until dawn.<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

Hotels are available in major towns, but two of our favorite places<br />

offered real escape. Stonewall Bed and Breakfast (stonewallbed.<br />

com) in Floyd, with a hike-in Woods cabin ($70) or View cabin ($80),<br />

and Fiddlers Roost Cabins (fiddlersroostcabins.com) in Galax, where<br />

$130 gets you a kitchen, living room and hot tub on the porch.<br />

Alternatively try, Miracle Farm Bed and Breakfast Spa & Resort<br />

(miraclefarmbnb.com) which offers a full vegetarian breakfast with<br />

farm-grown ingredients brought to your door; cottages start at<br />

$115 or New River Lodging (newrivertrailcabins.com) which features<br />

cabins (with names like Chance for Romance) complete with jacuzzis,<br />

fireplaces and gas grills. Rates start at $130.<br />

ALONG THE ROAD<br />

From east to west—check out<br />

Appalachia’s finest notes.<br />

BLUE RIDGE INSTITUTE<br />

Every October this folklore<br />

center presents the Blue Ridge<br />

Folklife Festival with three<br />

stages of continuous music.<br />

blueridgeinstitute.org<br />

FLOYD COUNTRY STORE<br />

The Friday Night Jamboree<br />

begins with a bluegrass gospel<br />

group, and in warm weather folks<br />

can be found picking outside.<br />

floydcountrystore.com<br />

REX THEATER & BLUE<br />

RIDGE BACKROADS LIVE<br />

Be part of the audience of<br />

WBRF 98.1 FM radio’s popular<br />

broadcast, featuring bluegrass<br />

and old time bands performing on<br />

stage. rextheatergalax.com<br />

BLUE RIDGE MUSIC<br />

CENTER & MUSEUM<br />

The state-of-the-art<br />

amphitheater presents<br />

performances every Saturday<br />

night from May through<br />

September and the museum<br />

chronicles 400 years of stringband<br />

music history in Virginia.<br />

blueridgemusiccenter.org<br />

THE BIRTHPLACE OF<br />

COUNTRY MUSIC ALLIANCE<br />

Displays and music honoring<br />

the pioneers of Appalachian<br />

music, such as the Carter Family,<br />

Jimmie Rodgers and Ernest<br />

“Pop” Stoneman. Thursday<br />

night Pickin’ Porch programs<br />

and beginner jams are worth<br />

the trek. birthplaceofcountry<br />

musicalliance.org<br />

CARTER FAMILY FOLD<br />

The “First Family of Country<br />

Music’s” tobacco barn was<br />

turned into a music center<br />

that seats 1,000 people.<br />

carterfamilyfold.org<br />

COUNTRY CABIN II<br />

Country Cabin II and Appalachian<br />

Traditions Village is a popular<br />

stage for local musicians and<br />

bands performing bluegrass,<br />

country and old time music every<br />

Saturday night from 8-11pm.<br />

virginia.org<br />

RALPH STANLEY<br />

MUSEUM<br />

The Ralph Stanley Museum &<br />

Traditional Mountain Music<br />

Center in Dickenson County<br />

includes exhibits on Dr. Stanley,<br />

the region’s musical roots<br />

and on popular successors.<br />

ralphstanleymuseum.com<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 45<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

everal hours later, I’m winding along the<br />

Virginia line toward Bristol, TN, and the<br />

nearby hamlet of Hiltons. One sultry<br />

summer day, A.P. Carter, his wife Sara<br />

and his sister-in-law Maybelle, borrowed<br />

a Model A Ford and made the bumpy<br />

drive to a makeshift recording studio<br />

in Bristol, where they recorded four songs—The Bristol<br />

sessions. The Carter Family never became rich, but their<br />

raw, plaintive harmonies on songs like “Wildlife Flower,”<br />

“Will the Circle Be Unbroken,” and “Wabash Cannonball”<br />

infl uenced musicians from Woody Guthrie to Bob<br />

Dylan to the Rolling Stones. “At his mom’s funeral, Mick<br />

Jagger sang ‘Will the Circle be Unbroken,’” says Rita Forrester,<br />

the granddaughter of A.P. and Sarah Carter.<br />

To preserve the music and heritage of country<br />

music’s founding family, the Carter’s second and third<br />

generations have been staging concerts since 1974 in a<br />

rustic theater called the Carter Family Fold. Every Saturday<br />

night, hundreds of roots-music fans drive hundreds<br />

of miles through a pocket of America, sometimes coming<br />

from as far away as Singapore and Russia.<br />

“We grew up pretty hard and I know my grandparents<br />

had it pretty hard. Just trying to keep food on the<br />

table was diffi cult,” says Forrester. “There are areas<br />

where poverty is still very evident. Once you were made<br />

to believe you should leave, but the Crooked Road is<br />

helping change that. Now you see kids with pride about<br />

where they come from. When I see that it just melts my<br />

heart.” Inside the rustic theater, the dance fl oor is a blur<br />

of youngsters and grandparents fl at footing and clogging<br />

dancers who rush onto the fl oor when the music cranks<br />

up. “What happens here on a Saturday night is almost a<br />

cultural time capsule,” says Brandi Hart, lead singer and<br />

co-writer for The Dixie Bee-Liners.<br />

On a spacious stage that resembles a front porch,<br />

Forrester sits on a wooden bench next to her slumbering<br />

dog. Hanging on the walls are solemn, saintly looking<br />

portraits of the original Carter Family. The heady whiff of<br />

sour bean soup and cornbread rises to the upper rafters.<br />

“When mama started this she wanted it to be a family<br />

place,” Forrester says. “She wanted everybody to be<br />

out of here by 10 so they could get up and go to church. I<br />

followed her plan literally—I promised my mama I would<br />

do what she did. We stay focused on acoustic blue grass<br />

and old time. We try to keep it very pure—like it was.”<br />

From the Carter Family Fold, the Crooked Road<br />

pushes north. But before I drive away, I stop at A.P.<br />

Carter’s original log cabin. Standing next to the front<br />

porch, entranced by a black sky, I think what it must<br />

have been nearly a century ago in this backwoods crossroads,<br />

when A.P, Sarah and Maybelle sang, danced and<br />

strummed their homemade fi ddles. “This part of the<br />

world got passed by on the Crooked Road,” Smith says.<br />

“You step back in time here.”


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HEATHCLIFF BERRU<br />

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(2009) “FLY LIKE AN EAGLE”<br />

STEVE MILLER (1976) “I’M<br />

GONNA BE (500 MILES)”<br />

PROCLAIMERS (1988) “IN<br />

THE AEROPLANE OVER THE<br />

SEA” NEUTRAL MILK HOTEL<br />

(1998) “VIVA LAS VEGAS”<br />

ELVIS (1964) “GOING BACK<br />

ANIMAL COLLECTIVE<br />

“KIDS ON HOLIDAY”<br />

“Kids On Holiday”<br />

captures the simultaneous<br />

anxiousness and<br />

excitement of travel. The perfect<br />

airport terminal song, it reminds<br />

me of that pit in the stomach before<br />

boarding the plane, trying to contain<br />

my excitement, but letting it<br />

get the best of me. It is tense and<br />

restrained but then bursts through<br />

with spasms of excitement.<br />

TO CALI” LL COOL J (1989)<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 46<br />

“ROCKY MOUNTAIN HIGH”<br />

JOHN DENVER (1972)<br />

“THIS LAND IS YOUR LAND”<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

WOODY GUTHRIE (1945)<br />

“DETROIT ROCK CITY”<br />

KISS (1976) “SWEET HOME<br />

BIG STAR<br />

“WAY OUT WEST”<br />

“Way Out West” is all<br />

about getting your girl<br />

to come back from “way<br />

out west.” Good for cruising with<br />

the sun hitting your back as you<br />

head back east.<br />

ALABAMA” LYNYRD SKYNYRD<br />

(1974) “HOMEWARD BOUND”<br />

SIMON AND GARFUNKEL<br />

(1966) “LEAVING ON A<br />

JET PLANE” JOHN DENVER<br />

(1969) “HOLIDAY” MADONNA<br />

(1983) “IT NEVER RAINS IN<br />

ELITE GYMNASTICS<br />

“WE FLY HIGH”<br />

“We Fly High” is a<br />

song about Minneapolis<br />

and reminds me<br />

of summer breaks spent passing<br />

newfound free time.


SHAYDE SARTIN<br />

SAN FRANCISCO, CA<br />

Amoeba Records, Staff<br />

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA”<br />

TONY! TONI! TONÉ! (1972)<br />

“FLY ME AWAY” GOLDFRAPP<br />

(2006) “MUSIC FOR<br />

EVAN CHERN<br />

MIAMI, FL<br />

Owner, Yesterday and<br />

Today Records<br />

AIRPORTS” BRIAN ENO<br />

(1978) “MY KIND OF TOWN<br />

(CHICAGO IS)” FRANK<br />

X<br />

“THE NEW WORLD”<br />

Excellent song with a<br />

dizzy rhythm, perfect<br />

for fl ying—the lyrics<br />

drag you through the<br />

whole country.<br />

SINATRA (1964) “ROAM”<br />

THE B-52S (1989) “DO<br />

YOU KNOW WHAT IT MEANS<br />

TO MISS NEW ORLEANS?”<br />

LOUIS ARMSTRONG (1947)<br />

“COME FLY WITH ME”<br />

DANNY KIRWAN<br />

“SPACEMAN”<br />

This is a great, great<br />

song, kind of an<br />

obscurity from Kirwan<br />

who is mostly known for having<br />

been in Fleetwood Mac.<br />

FRANK SINATRA (1958)<br />

“I LEFT MY HEART IN SAN<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 47<br />

ANNGELLE WOOD<br />

BOSTON, MA<br />

WZLX DJ, host of long-running<br />

Boston Emissions local show<br />

FRANCISCO” TONY BENNETT<br />

(1962) “CALIFORNIA LOVE”<br />

2PAC (1995) “MAPS”<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

YEAH YEAH YEAHS (2003)<br />

“MIAMI” WILL SMITH (1998)<br />

“HELLO SEATTLE” OWL CITY<br />

(2009) “WAKING UP IN<br />

METALLICA<br />

“ORION”<br />

One of my favorites,<br />

an 8 minute 25 second<br />

opus of breaking the<br />

limits of speed.<br />

JEFFERSON AIRPLANE<br />

“3/5 OF A MILE IN 10 SECONDS”<br />

I’m a big Jeff erson Airplane fan and when I thought about<br />

travel and speed, this song popped in my head, and it has a line<br />

about plane altitude!<br />

VEGAS” KATY PERRY (2009)<br />

“GEORGIA ON MY MIND”<br />

RAY CHARLES (1960)<br />

“PAPER PLANES” M.I.A.<br />

(2007) “HOTEL CALIFORNIA”<br />

THE EAGLES (1976) “ON<br />


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THE ROAD AGAIN” WILLIE<br />

NELSON (1980) “LIVING IN<br />

AMERICA” JAMES BROWN<br />

(1985) “CITY OF NEW<br />

ORLEANS” ARLO GUTHRIE<br />

(1972) “GRACELAND” PAUL<br />

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YORK” STING (1988) “I GET<br />

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(1964) “GOOD RIDDANCE<br />

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GREEN DAY (1997) “WALK<br />

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MAY <strong>2012</strong> 48<br />

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(1964) “THE WANDERER” U2<br />

(1993) “WEEKEND IN LA”<br />

THE TOASTERS (1987) “I’M<br />

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DROPKICK MURPHYS (2005)<br />

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LARGE” MODEST MOUSE<br />

(2005) “FLY AWAY FROM<br />

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JONES (2003) “ALL AROUND<br />

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JASON BOLAND<br />

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An example of what<br />

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PEPPERS (1999) “CARIBBEAN<br />

BREEZE” WISEGUYS (1996)<br />

“CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’”<br />

MAMAS AND PAPAS (1965)<br />

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PRAYER” BILLY JOEL (1973)<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 49<br />

LITTLE TEXAS<br />

“AMY’S BACK IN AUSTIN” (1995)<br />

A great little travel tune about a couple who leave Texas for the<br />

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“ST. LOUIS SLIM” SEASICK<br />

STEVE (2008) “FLY ME TO<br />

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“VACATION” THE GO-GOS<br />

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BILLY OCEAN (1984) “IN A<br />

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(1983) “AROUND THE WORLD”<br />

DAFT PUNK (1997) “MEXICO”<br />

JAMES TAYLOR (1975)<br />

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AEROSMITH (1987) “FANTASTIC<br />

VOYAGE” LAKESIDE (1980)<br />

“FLORIDAYS” JIMMY BUFFETT<br />

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ODYSSEY (1977) “FUNKY<br />

MICHAEL RENDER<br />

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“CHICAGO” SUFJAN STEVENS<br />

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BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN (1975)<br />

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SADE<br />

“SMOOTH OPERATOR”<br />

Usually by the time I’m<br />

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song will do. I listened to “Smooth<br />

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favorites. It just winds me down. If<br />

I’m sitting waiting for the plane,<br />

then it’s “Smooth Operator” time.<br />

CALLED QUEST (1993)<br />

“THIS FLIGHT TONIGHT”<br />

JONI MITCHELL (1971)<br />

“DESTINATION ANYWHERE”<br />

THE COMMITMENTS (1997)<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 50 GO MAGAZINE<br />

G<br />

“I’VE BEEN EVERYWHERE”<br />

JOHNNY CASH (1996) “WHERE<br />

IT’S AT” BECK (1996) “THE<br />

ELTON JOHN<br />

“ROCKET MAN”<br />

“I play this in preparation<br />

of going to the<br />

airport. Whenever I<br />

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to the song it feels like a hero<br />

going on an adventure.<br />

NEW WORLD” X (1983)<br />

“ROADRUNNER” MODERN<br />

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PHILADELPHIA<br />

THE CONSTITUTIONAL<br />

WALKING TOUR<br />

Spend the better part of two hours wandering<br />

the same path of our country’s<br />

constitutional creators.<br />

LOVERS (1976) “AMY’S BACK<br />

IN AUSTIN” LITTLE TEXAS<br />

(1995) “COMAL COUNTY<br />

BLUE” JASON BOLAND<br />

AND THE STRAGGLERS<br />

(2008) “SPACEMAN” DANNY<br />

CURTIS MAYFIELD<br />

“SUPER FLY”<br />

For me, when I’m in<br />

the air, it’s all about<br />

staying mellow. Curtis<br />

Mayfi eld’s music is soulful, funky<br />

and mellow.<br />

KIRWAN (1979) “WAY OUT


NEW YORK<br />

SOUNDWALK<br />

BRONX GRAFFITI<br />

The street artists of the legendary TATS<br />

CRU take you through their neighborhood<br />

with insights and history about the<br />

outlaw murals.<br />

WEST” BIG STAR (1974)<br />

“KIDS ON HOLIDAY”<br />

ANIMAL COLLECTIVE (2004)<br />

“TRAVELIN MAN” MOS DEF<br />

(1998) “BORN IN THE USA”<br />

BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN (1984)<br />

“KIDS IN AMERICA” KIM<br />

B.B. KING<br />

“3 O’CLOCK BLUES”<br />

B.B. King is one of<br />

my Grandmother’s<br />

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WILDE (1981) “RUNNIN’<br />

DOWN A DREAM” TOM PETTY<br />

(1989) “AMERICA” SIMON<br />

AND GARFUNKEL (1968)<br />

“THE PASSENGER” IGGY POP<br />

(1977) “CAROLINA ON MY<br />

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The Magic City’s architectural details come<br />

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MIND” JAMES TAYLOR (1969)<br />

“LIVIN’ ON A PRAYER” BON<br />

JOVI (1986) “RUN-AROUND”<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 51<br />

BLUES TRAVELER (1994)<br />

“THE RIVER” GARTH BROOKS<br />

(1992) “HERE I GO AGAIN”<br />

WHITESNAKE (1982) “AIN’T<br />

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NO MOUNTAIN HIGH ENOUGH”<br />

MARVIN GAYE & TAMMI<br />

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LIZ PHAIR<br />

“STRATFORD-ON-GUY”<br />

Everytime I'm on a<br />

plane at night, this song<br />

plays in my head. The<br />

fi rst verse says it all: I was fl ying<br />

into Chicago at night, Watching<br />

the lake turn the sky into bluegreen<br />

smoke, The sun was setting<br />

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ATTITUDE” JIMMY BUFFETT<br />

(1977) “WHEREVER I MAY<br />

ROAM” METALLICA (1992)<br />

“HOLIDAYS IN THE SUN” SEX<br />

PISTOLS (1977) “AMERICA”<br />

RAZORLIGHT (2006)<br />

JOHN HARTFORD<br />

“STEAM-POWERED<br />

AEREOPLANE”<br />

I just love this song. It’s<br />

about jet travel but it<br />

sounds like he’s singing<br />

about being on a riverboat<br />

or something.


BIZ BITS<br />

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PHOTOGRAPH BY<br />

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BUSINESS<br />

C A P I T O L<br />

THE BIG BUSINESS AT MUSIC<br />

FESTIVALS ISN’T NECESSARILY<br />

ON THE MAIN STAGE.<br />

BY<br />

ROD O'CONNOR<br />

MAIN ILLUSTRATION BY<br />

ALBERTO ANTONLAZZI<br />

HEAD ILLUSTRATIONS BY<br />

DANIEL HERTZBERG<br />

M<br />

usic fans had no<br />

shortage of ways to<br />

amuse themselves<br />

in between pulsepounding<br />

sets by<br />

The Black Keys<br />

and Arcade Fire at<br />

last summer’s Outside<br />

Lands Music and Arts Festival in San<br />

Francisco. Oenophiles could sip a classic California<br />

Chardonnay in Wine Lands or foodies<br />

could dine on gourmet burgers in the Food<br />

Truck Forest. Even Baseball fanatics had a<br />

fi x, they could catch a few innings of their<br />

beloved Giants at the Stubhub-sponsored<br />

sports bar. Bad hair day? The Garnier salon<br />

off ered everything from styling to cuts.<br />

Along with a stellar musical lineup, the<br />

array of attractions throughout the fest’s<br />

80-acre grounds in beautiful Golden Gate<br />

Park helped Outside Lands draw more than<br />

180,000 people over a three-day August weekend—the<br />

biggest-ever crowd in the event’s<br />

four-year history. And with all the experiential<br />

choices, it’s clear, today’s music festivals<br />

are about more than music.<br />

Though Outside Lands’ generated more<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 56<br />

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R E C O R D S<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 57<br />

GO MAGAZINE


BUSINESS<br />

TICKET MASTERS<br />

VIP treatment, tickets on layaway,<br />

hanging with the band? A concert ticket<br />

isn’t just for getting past security.<br />

By Rod O’Connor<br />

When the hippies arrived in 1969 for Woodstock,<br />

most of the 500,000 attendees didn’t even<br />

have tickets. But, as the dozens of gatecrashers<br />

arrested at last year’s Lollapalooza in Chicago can<br />

attest, paid admission is a necessity for today’s<br />

big-budget music festivals. And with so many<br />

ticket options available—from budget-friendly<br />

layaway plans to VIP packages for big spenders—<br />

there’s really no excuse for fence hopping.<br />

Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival and<br />

the Stagecoach Country Music Festival, both held<br />

in the deser desert of Indio, Calif., 120 miles from Los<br />

Angel Angeles, pioneered the layaway trend back<br />

in 20 2009, offering installment payment<br />

options<br />

for music fans just as the Great<br />

RRecession<br />

was tightening its grip.<br />

SSmaller<br />

festivals, such as the Sum-<br />

mmer<br />

Camp Music Festival, taking<br />

pplace<br />

this May a couple hours<br />

ooutside<br />

Chicago in Chillicothe,<br />

IIl.,<br />

followed suit. The Summer<br />

Camp Musi Music Festival provides plenty of<br />

options atthe at the oth other end of the spectrum as well. VIP<br />

upgrades allow attendees, most of whom camp out<br />

for the weekend on the show grounds, to pay extra<br />

(from $185 to $1,000) for everything from creature<br />

comforts like air-conditioned bathrooms to “Rock<br />

Star” packages that include backstage access<br />

to hang with bands that, this year, feature '90s<br />

stalwarts Primus and Janes Addiction. In 2011,<br />

“Lolla Lounge” passes at Chicago's Lollapalooza—which<br />

included complimentary drinks,<br />

spa treatments and golf-cart shuttle service—<br />

sold out at $850 a pop. Both Lollapalooza and<br />

Outside Lands in San Francisco also cater to the<br />

big-money set by offering ultra-exclusive, fully<br />

catered cabanas for groups of 20 or more.<br />

“There are certain people who wouldn’t take<br />

in an experience like this unless they were offered<br />

certain amenities,” says Rick Farman, one of the<br />

producers of Outside Lands, about the VIP extravagances<br />

available at most big-time music festivals.<br />

“We’re just trying to make these experiences<br />

attractive to everybody.”<br />

RICK FARMAN<br />

CO-FOUNDER OF<br />

SUPERFLY PRODUCTIONS<br />

JOELLEN FERRER<br />

HEAD OF U.S. COMMUNICATIONS<br />

FOR STUBHUB<br />

JOHN BOLER<br />

VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES AND<br />

MARKETING FOR SUMMERFEST<br />

CHRIS KASKIE<br />

PRESIDENT OF<br />

PITCHFORK<br />

STEVE MAGNUSON<br />

VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS<br />

FOR MARCUS HOTELS<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 58<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

than $12 million in gross revenues from<br />

tickets priced from $85 to $475, ticket sales<br />

weren’t nearly enough to fund a long list<br />

of operational costs ranging from talent<br />

fees and stage production to security and<br />

clean-up. As with other successful summer<br />

music festivals from Chicago’s Lollapalooza<br />

to Manchester, TN’s Bonnaroo, it’s mutually<br />

benefi cial business relationships large<br />

and small that provide the revenue to<br />

help the festival return for an encore next<br />

year—and avoid becoming a casualty like<br />

the Mile High Music Festival in Denver, or<br />

the Nateva Music and Camping Festival<br />

near Portland, ME, two live music events<br />

abruptly cancelled in 2011.<br />

According to Rick Farman, co-founder<br />

of SuperFly Productions, which produces<br />

Outside Lands, the event’s Bay Area locale—<br />

a cultural capital and a hotbed of affl uent,<br />

educated, tech-savvy consumers—required<br />

that, from year one, the festival truly had to<br />

be a “best-in-class, top notch experience.”<br />

Fashioning Outside Lands as a celebration<br />

of the region’s food and culture, as well as<br />

a showcase of top national bands, is what<br />

diff erentiates it from other multi-day music<br />

extravaganzas, Farman says. Another<br />

distinction is how the event works with<br />

corporate sponsors.<br />

“We don’t really do any stage signage,”<br />

Farman explains. “Every corporate partner<br />

we work with has to be integrated into the<br />

event. We start with the question: What are<br />

you doing to add to the experience, and how<br />

does that tie in with the mission of your<br />

marketing or your brand?”<br />

For StubHub, that meant creating a<br />

60-foot by 90-foot sports bar tent—complete<br />

with bar stools, air hockey games and<br />

dozens of TVs—smack dab in the middle<br />

of the show grounds. Best known as an<br />

online source for tickets to sporting events,<br />

StubHub spent nearly its entire music business<br />

development budget on sponsorships<br />

at Outside Lands and three other summer<br />

festivals to spread the word that the website<br />

was also a resource for concert tickets.<br />

“Our presence helped fans draw that<br />

connection,” says Joellen Ferrer, StubHub’s<br />

head of US Communications. “It was a<br />

perfect storm to be able to have a sports<br />

bar concept within a festival environment<br />

that’s all about music to help us spread that<br />

message that we’re not just about sports.”


She says the brand awareness helped Stub-<br />

Hub achieve double-digit year-over-year<br />

growth in 2011, mostly due to increased<br />

concert sales.<br />

These kinds of win-win marketing<br />

arrangements are essential for the continued<br />

success of Milwaukee’s Summerfest,<br />

which celebrates its 45th anniversary this<br />

year. During its 11-day run this July, the<br />

event known as “The Big Gig” expects to<br />

draw more than a million people to the<br />

lakefront Henry Maier Festival Park to see<br />

12 stages worth of acts that range from the<br />

Beach Boys to Iron Maiden to local performers.<br />

But with a business model built around<br />

aff ordable, family-friendly ticket prices<br />

($16 for general admission), Summerfest<br />

must broker business-to-business deals<br />

with dozens of partners with price tags costing<br />

from a few-thousand dollars to more<br />

than seven fi gures to cover its $32 million<br />

operating budget.<br />

ROSEMARY RAPOSO JORDA<br />

FESTIVAL ORGANIZER FOR THE<br />

VILLAGE VOICE 4KNOTS FESTIVAL<br />

ERIN WOODS<br />

MARKETING MANAGER OF COPPER<br />

MOUNTAIN RESORT ASSOCIATION<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 59<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

BUSINESS<br />

HOG WILD<br />

The Harley-Davidson stage at<br />

Milwaukee's Summerfest.<br />

A<br />

s anybody who’s attended<br />

a festival since Woodstock<br />

knows, licensed vendors are<br />

an ever growing part of the<br />

festival business experience,<br />

a necessary counterbalance to the famous<br />

face onstage. Vendor fees and cuts of merchandise,<br />

food and beverage sales pump<br />

much needed revenue into promoters’ coffers.<br />

Last year, to avoid having to raise ticket<br />

prices, Summerfest raised the price of beer<br />

by 50 cents to help pay for what is, by far, the<br />

largest expense for music festivals: talent<br />

fees. According to World Festival executives,<br />

an increase in entertainer costs, likely<br />

a refl ection of lost revenue in album sales,<br />

necessitated the price hike.<br />

Chris Kaskie, president of Pitchfork,<br />

the Chicago-based online music website<br />

that hosts its eponymous music festival<br />

every July in the city’s Union Park, says<br />

talent represents 40 to 50 percent of its


BUSINESS<br />

VIEWING PARTY<br />

Giants fans get their baseball<br />

fix in the StubHub sports<br />

bar at Outside Lands.<br />

annual operating budget. “It’s clearly the<br />

biggest expense,” he says. “If ticket prices<br />

go up, it normally means that bands are<br />

being paid more money. Live shows are<br />

where bands are making their money<br />

these days, so that’s where you’re seeing<br />

increases in expenses.”<br />

A boutique festival concept that draws<br />

approximately 50,000 attendees over<br />

three days, Pitchfork’s fi nancial backend<br />

functions diff erently than other festivals.<br />

It operates as a separate entity from<br />

pitchfork.com, but the fact that the event<br />

is linked to a pre-existing business means<br />

there’s less pressure for the festival to<br />

serve as a revenue driver. “We don’t want<br />

to lose money,” says Kaskie. “But profi ts<br />

are not our primary goal.”<br />

Hence, Pitchfork works to keep its<br />

ticket prices roughly half the cost of<br />

those for larger festivals like Outside<br />

Lands or Lollapalooza while still offering<br />

a music lineup that boasts top-tier<br />

acts. (Vampire Weekend and Feist are<br />

among this year’s performers.)<br />

“We make our decisions in terms of<br />

how we price our ticket and how we structure<br />

our prices for [everything from beer<br />

to water] based on what we feel is both<br />

fair and based on necessity,” Kaskie adds.<br />

“Someone else might look at it as, how can<br />

we make more money? But for us, it’s what<br />

do we need to do to accomplish our goals?<br />

We’re comfortable in the realm that we are<br />

in. We don’t want to get bigger for the sake<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 60<br />

GO MAGAZINE


of getting bigger. We want to build something<br />

great year in and year out and not<br />

mess with it.”<br />

O<br />

f course, when a music<br />

festival establishes itself<br />

as a summer institution,<br />

the entire region benefi ts.<br />

According to a report conducted<br />

by San Francisco University,<br />

Outside Lands had more than a $66<br />

million economic impact on Bay Area<br />

businesses in 2011. Attendees, 72 percent<br />

of which were visitors from outside San<br />

Francisco, spent an average of $400 each<br />

on hotel stays, restaurant meals, cab and<br />

bus rides, and other expenditures.<br />

And Summerfest brings $180 million<br />

in direct and indirect spending to Brew<br />

City, says the Visit Milwaukee website. “It<br />

defi nitely has an impact on our business,”<br />

says Steve Magnuson, vice president of<br />

operations for Marcus Hotels. But it’s not<br />

just the massive events that bring residual<br />

economic benefi ts to area businesses. Copper<br />

Mountain, a ski resort community 90<br />

minutes from Denver, will reap more than<br />

just good vibes with Wanderlust, a series<br />

of hybrid yoga and music events featuring<br />

headliners Ziggy Marley and Deepak Chopra.<br />

The festival, which debuted in 2009<br />

in Squaw Valley, CA, off ers multiple ticket<br />

packages that range from music-only<br />

passes for $35 to multi-day programs that<br />

include lectures, seminars and mediations<br />

sessions for $99 to $475.<br />

From a cross-promotion standpoint,<br />

bringing thousands of affl uent, health-conscious<br />

yoga and music fans to a stunning<br />

Rocky Mountain setting couldn’t be a better<br />

fi t. Erin Woods, marketing manager of<br />

the Copper Mountain Resort Association,<br />

predicts the town’s 1,000 lodging units,<br />

which range from studio condos to multibedroom<br />

mountain home rentals, will hit<br />

100% occupancy during Wanderlust. She<br />

hopes the exposure brings festival attendees<br />

back when ski season comes around,<br />

and turns them into year-round fans of the<br />

picturesque vacation getaway.<br />

“It’s an opportunity for us to have a<br />

successful weekend,” she says. “But I think<br />

the other major benefi t is some of those<br />

people will buy ski passes next winter. It’s<br />

a huge benefi t to us on both sides.”<br />

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BUSINESS<br />

T A B L E F O R O N E<br />

EVERY SAVVY TRAVELER MUST<br />

MASTER THE ART OF EATING<br />

ALONE—IT DOESN’T HAVE<br />

TO BE QUITE SO LONELY.<br />

BY<br />

JAIME LOWE<br />

ILLUSTRATION BY<br />

GUY BILLOUT<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 62<br />

GO MAGAZINE


MAY <strong>2012</strong> 63<br />

GO MAGAZINE


BUSINESS<br />

ast month, I was in the<br />

Dominican Republic for work (tough life, I<br />

know), staying at a resort that was populated<br />

by conference-goers from Cleveland, happy<br />

families frolicking through oceans and<br />

honey-mooning couples submerged in pools,<br />

deep in love, content to stare magically at<br />

one another. And there I was, heading to<br />

dinner at an outdoor seafood restaurant<br />

with my notebook, my paperback copy of<br />

Susan Casey’s The Wave and an iPad…just<br />

in case. In case I got bored was what I told<br />

myself, but really it was to silence an inner<br />

monologue. Will they stare? Will they laugh<br />

when the three-piece mariachi band awkwardly<br />

serenades me? Or will they know that<br />

my serene, mile-long stare across the aqua<br />

waves and the lapping ocean is nothing but<br />

a mask of calm—a mask that’s hiding my<br />

discomfort? Will they think I am sad, lonely,<br />

desperate to be at a resort and eating freshly<br />

caught fi sh, drinking a glass of pinot grigio<br />

alone? WHAT ARE THEY THINKING<br />

AND WHY DO I CARE?<br />

The short answer is: Absolutely no one<br />

cares. The long answer is: Everyone has a<br />

social complex about dining solo, even a wellseasoned<br />

road warrior. I am an independent,<br />

willful, intrepid traveler, and I often travel for<br />

work as well as pleasure—but there is some<br />

kind of bravery and awkwardness that must<br />

be overcome to ask for a table for one, almost<br />

like an Outward Bound wilderness challenge.<br />

(It’s not like my boyfriend’s approach—<br />

“What's the problem? You go, you sit, you<br />

eat.”) The thought of it is daunting, but in<br />

reality, it’s an opportunity for true culinary<br />

adventures, for actually experiencing the<br />

destination and the food—especially now<br />

that eating at bars and communal tables are<br />

as much a part of the going-out experience<br />

as white cloth napkins.<br />

Increasingly, restaurants are catering to<br />

the solo diner. CityZen at the Mandarin Oriental<br />

in Washington, DC, has embraced the<br />

trend by ordering an iPad for parties of one<br />

to use at their table. The tablet was deployed<br />

in the dining room complete with internet<br />

access over the hotel’s WiFi network.<br />

Not all dining establishments embrace<br />

technology so fervently—but those are the<br />

places, like Akasha in Culver City, that<br />

include a bar where chef Akasha Richardson<br />

mingles with diners and is often found<br />

eating her nightly meal at the corner stool.<br />

Embracing the bar is not just a safe way to<br />

eat alone, it’s adventurous. Chances are<br />

you’ll get bites from the kitchen and liquid<br />

advice from a suspender-ed mixologist.<br />

If conversations at the bar aren’t your<br />

style, check out the crowded tables that have<br />

cropped up in the middle in dining rooms<br />

lately. “The trend now, especially in casual<br />

restaurants, is the communal table,” S. Irene<br />

Virbilia, the Los Angeles Times restaurant<br />

critic, wrote last fall. “Sitting at the communal<br />

table can be surprising and fun. You<br />

might make a new friend. You might end up<br />

sharing a bottle of phenomenal wine—you<br />

won’t be bored.”<br />

Hobnobbing with bartenders, busboys<br />

and complete strangers not your idea of<br />

a relaxing? Find a joint that specializes in<br />

solo dining like New York’s City Hall, where<br />

chef and owner Henry Meer provides complimentary<br />

items—a demi-tasse of soup and<br />

a cookie, extra candles for reading and a<br />

lunch-time selection of local newspapers like<br />

The Wall Street Journal and New York Post. It's<br />

no wonder City Hall is a concierge favorite<br />

for business guests.<br />

Even if you’re not up for an adventure,<br />

don’t give in to the temptation of stuffi ng<br />

yourself with predictably disappointing<br />

room service. You can always treat yourself<br />

to the tried and true safe harbor of a business<br />

traveler’s fi nest food—the sushi bar. Nobus<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 64<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

● Comedians are on the road and eating<br />

solo all the time. So, we asked our<br />

expert panel of stand-ups to tell us<br />

about their methods for sitting down.<br />

EUGENE MIRMAN<br />

“Mostly I find eating alone relaxing.<br />

I eat slower. I usually travel<br />

and am working constantly, so the<br />

idea that I get to sit down and eat<br />

is a pleasure. I actually really like<br />

eating alone, but I also like going<br />

to movies alone, and I work alone,<br />

so <strong>may</strong>be I’m just used to it. But I<br />

really like it.”<br />

Bob’s Burgers, Fox


TODD BARRY<br />

“My tips for eating alone? Do a<br />

little online research, find a restaurant<br />

that sounds good, then go<br />

to that restaurant. And why would<br />

you care if a bunch of strangers<br />

think you’re lonely? I think sitting<br />

in a hotel room eating room service<br />

is lonelier than sitting a restaurant<br />

with other people. But there are<br />

times where you go into a restaurant<br />

and don’t see anyone dining<br />

solo. In that case, you can always<br />

eat at the bar with other solo diners.<br />

Sometimes I read. Sometimes<br />

I stare into space. Sometimes I<br />

bring something to read but end<br />

up staring into space.”<br />

Delocated, Comedy Central<br />

NICK KROLL<br />

“Great eavesdropping if you’re<br />

eating alone. If I’m not alone I’m<br />

wary of the person sitting alone,<br />

because I think they are listening<br />

to me. No one is ever really eating<br />

alone—you have your phone, your<br />

iPad, your laptop. The nice thing<br />

about an iPad is people can’t see<br />

what book you’re reading, so I<br />

could be reading a Danielle Steele<br />

novel or Malcolm Gladwell. The<br />

truth is if you’re eating alone, you<br />

can just watch and judge people.<br />

I find eating lunch and breakfast<br />

alone totally fine, but eating dinner<br />

alone is totally depressing.”<br />

The Kroll Show, Comedy Central<br />

starting July 10<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 65<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

across the country and Chicago’s Sushi Waba<br />

provide shows featuring more dexterity and<br />

acrobatics behind the sushi bar glass than<br />

Cirque du Soleil. Between knife-wielding,<br />

high-octane performances of expert rolling<br />

and fl aying of fi sh that’ll keep even the most<br />

jaded patron entertained, sushi chefs are<br />

always good for foodie chats and local advice.<br />

Next time you fi nd yourself on a business trip<br />

or soul-searching weekend getaway, follow<br />

these rules for fl ying solo.<br />

Choose your seat wisely: Treat the dining<br />

room as your in-house entertainment: the<br />

drama and fl ow between wait staff , bus boys,<br />

line cooks and maitre d’s is infi nitely more<br />

entertaining than just about any primetime<br />

show. But make the mistake of sitting in a<br />

wall facing chair and you’ll feel isolated and<br />

more alone.<br />

Don’t be afraid of strangers: Sit at the<br />

communal table, and you’re bound to strike<br />

up a conversation with fellow patrons—that’s<br />

the point. Feel free to share food and thoughts<br />

and dish on each dish. Just don’t get too personal<br />

with your newfound, er, friends.<br />

Book it: When in doubt, bring reading<br />

material. Broadsheet newspapers have to<br />

be expertly folded and small paperbacks are<br />

easier to wrangle than, say, Gravity’s Rainbow<br />

or Anna Karenina. But the ultimate in dining<br />

companions these days are Kindles or iPads—<br />

that way even if you’re just playing Words with<br />

Friends it will still look like you’re reading.<br />

Be a sport: A sports bar doesn’t always<br />

equal fi ne cuisine, but if you time your meal to<br />

a game, at the very least you’ve got a friendly<br />

crowd. There are delicious and distracting<br />

sports bars like Atlanta’s Dantanna that cover<br />

all bases—surf, turf and balls abound.<br />

Eavesdrop: If you’re not striking up<br />

friendly rapport, you certainly can listen to<br />

other diner’s drama. Use a book as a prop to<br />

get the really good dish.<br />

Big in Japan: The Japanese have perfected<br />

the art of eating alone with conveyor<br />

belts consistently delivering the next dish or<br />

sushi chefs slicing, dicing and rolling sashimi<br />

and nigiri.<br />

Solitary refi nement: Food has the power<br />

to bring people together—intimate dates,<br />

business meals, Thanksgiving—these are all<br />

opportunities to break bread, converse and<br />

laugh together. But sometimes it feels good to<br />

be alone with your thoughts, to sit, to eat, to<br />

dine at table for one.


The Star-Spangled Sailabration, an international parade of naval vessels and tall ships and an<br />

air show featuring the Blue Angels, launches the Bicentennial of the War of 1812 in Baltimore,<br />

June 13-19, <strong>2012</strong>. For details and to reserve your room, visit www.StarSpangled200.com.<br />

@BaltimoreMD #SSB<strong>2012</strong>


PINBALL: ANDREW WAPLINGER<br />

ON THE<br />

TOWN<br />

BALTIMORE, MARYLAND<br />

IN BRIEF BY AIGERIM SAPAROVA<br />

BY THE NUMBERS<br />

40<br />

MAY AVERAGES:<br />

109<br />

74˚F<br />

games the Baltimore Orioles<br />

won in 1969—the inaugural<br />

3.99 in. 52˚F<br />

season of the American league<br />

TIME ZONE:<br />

Eastern<br />

AREA CODES:<br />

410/443<br />

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FOUNDED:<br />

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POPULATION:<br />

620,961<br />

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AIRPORT:<br />

Baltimore/<br />

Washington<br />

International (BWI)<br />

WEBSITE:<br />

Baltimore.org<br />

NEWS FLASH CULTURE CALENDAR<br />

Forever Young // Without velvet ropes,<br />

pretentious art buffs and please-don’t-touch<br />

signs, the National Pinball Museum isn’t your<br />

typical museum. Having just made the move<br />

from Washington, DC to Baltimore’s Power<br />

Plant Live complex, the museum lets visitors<br />

explore an extensive pinball collection<br />

that includes more than 800 machines<br />

tracing all the way back to the 18 th century.<br />

nationalpinballmuseum.org<br />

the number of floors of the Legg Mason<br />

Building, Baltimore’s tallest building<br />

Modern Classics // Teddy Roosevelt and his band of<br />

Rough Riders were the inspiration behind Kettle Hill,<br />

a neighborhood restaurant and tavern serving American<br />

grill fare with fresh seasonal ingredients that opened late<br />

last month. Its partnership with former Oriole’s catcher<br />

and Baltimore’s very own sports hero, Rick Dempsey,<br />

makes the restaurant an instant victory for history-buffs,<br />

sports-lovers and foodies alike. facebook.com/pages/<br />

Kettle-Hill-Restaurant<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 67<br />

the gross revenue of John Waters’<br />

movie Hairspray (filmed in Baltimore<br />

in 1988) after its theatrical run<br />

the number of slot machines and<br />

electronic table games at the<br />

Maryland Live! Casino<br />

May 12<br />

THIRD ANNUAL HIPPODROME FOODIE EXPERIENCE<br />

We might as well call it the Ultimate Foodie Experience. This<br />

year’s event welcomes James Beard Award-winning TV personality,<br />

chef, food writer, teacher and host of Travel Channel’s hit show,<br />

Bizarre Foods, Andrew Zimmern. Visitors can sample dishes<br />

from the area’s top restaurants and food trucks as well as listen<br />

to Zimmern’s wildest stories, experiences and meals. Live music<br />

and complimentary beer and wine are the cherry on top of this<br />

delicious day. france-merrickpac.com<br />

May 19<br />

ANNUAL RUNNING OF THE PREAKNESS STAKES<br />

Baltimore’s historic Pimlico Race<br />

Course plays Preakness host for the<br />

137 th year, celebrating the second jewel<br />

in horse racing’s Triple Crown. But<br />

before you and your pals wager on<br />

which horse will triumph, get your<br />

funk on at the Preakness Infi eldFest,<br />

featuring the likes of Maroon 5, Wiz<br />

Khalifa and The Darkness. Now that’s<br />

a safe bet. preakness.com<br />

GO MAGAZINE


ON THE TOWN: BALTIMORE<br />

GET CRACKIN’ BY EVAN SERPICK ILLUSTRATIONS BY INFOMEN<br />

Find out how to minimize the mess and minor flesh wounds while maximizing the meaty meal.<br />

M<br />

aryland blue crabs are<br />

known to be among<br />

the most delectable<br />

products of the sea,<br />

but in Baltimore,<br />

where the crustaceans are elevated<br />

to demigod status, they’re more<br />

than just a dinner option, they’re<br />

an experience. Locals call it a<br />

“crab feast,” and eating them<br />

properly is an art form. To look<br />

less like an amateur—complete<br />

with a bib covered in seasoning,<br />

shells and drops of your own<br />

blood—follow these locals’ tips<br />

for getting the most out of those<br />

delicious hardshells.<br />

▪ PREP: Before you dig in to your<br />

dinner, make sure you have the right<br />

tools. The list is short: All you need<br />

is a dull knife and a mallet. Word<br />

to the wise—you’ll want to spread<br />

newspaper over the table, because<br />

crabs are messy. Remove all jewelry.<br />

If you have any cuts on your hands,<br />

cover them up because the crab<br />

seasoning stings. If you don’t have<br />

any cuts, you will before dessert.<br />

▪ ORDERING: You order blue<br />

crabs by the dozen or by the<br />

bushel (about six or seven dozen,<br />

depending on size). One sure way<br />

to show that you’re a tourist is to<br />

order, say, “three crabs.” It just<br />

isn’t done. Sizes range from small<br />

to colossal, though most people<br />

get medium, large or jumbo. In<br />

Baltimore, crabs come covered in<br />

Old Bay seasoning—this isn’t an<br />

option, it’s just how they come. If<br />

you want it without, you can order<br />

them “washed,” but it’s frowned<br />

upon. Traditionally, crabs are<br />

served with locally grown corn and<br />

tomatoes along with pitchers of<br />

beer, though some restaurants off er<br />

more elaborate options.<br />

▪ EATING: Crabs are usually<br />

dumped in the middle of the table.<br />

Grab a nice big one and follow<br />

these steps to get the most meat for<br />

your money.<br />

1<br />

2<br />

4 5<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 68<br />

3<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

Break off the two main<br />

1 claws and put them<br />

aside. You can eat them later<br />

or pass them along to the kids,<br />

since they are easiest to eat.<br />

The real meat is in the body<br />

anyway. Remove the little<br />

claws and toss them.<br />

On the crab’s belly, there<br />

2 is a convenient little tab<br />

called the “apron.” Pull it back<br />

and break it off. You <strong>may</strong> need<br />

to use your dull knife to pry it<br />

upwards. Now, you should have<br />

a nice opening to pull off the<br />

crab’s back. Don’t be alarmed<br />

at the mess that awaits.<br />

Clear out the mess—the<br />

3 pointy bristly things<br />

(the lungs) and the yellow<br />

“mustard” (you don’t want to<br />

know what that is) until you<br />

have two distinct “sections.”<br />

Break these apart.<br />

Now, you should be able<br />

4 to dig into each section<br />

from the side and pull out<br />

nice, succulent chunks of<br />

crabmeat. Make sure to dig<br />

deep, and use the dull knife<br />

in all the nooks and crannies.<br />

There won’t be a ton of meat—<br />

which is why you order by the<br />

dozen—but it will be delicious.<br />

If you choose to return<br />

5 to the claws, bend them<br />

backwards at the joint to get<br />

two sections. You might be<br />

able to pull out a nice hunk of<br />

meat—called the backfin—<br />

when you separate them. Place<br />

your knife in the middle of each<br />

section and tap it with the<br />

mallet to break it apart. Dig.<br />

GET CRABBY AT<br />

BALTIMORE’S<br />

BEST<br />

CRABHOUSES<br />

► BO BROOKS<br />

bobrooks.com<br />

► CANTON DOCKSIDE<br />

cantondockside.com<br />

► CAPTAIN HARVEY’S<br />

CRABHOUSE<br />

captainharveys.com<br />

► CJ’S CRABHOUSE<br />

cjscrabs.com


– Flag-folding ceremony at Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine, Baltimore –<br />

Once-in-a-lifetime commemorations.<br />

One destination.<br />

Create your own family history by exploring ours. See the tall ships and naval vessels of our Star-<br />

Spangled Sailabration, part of the Bicentennial of the War of 1812 commemoration. Relive the pivotal<br />

Civil War battles of South Mountain and Antietam. And follow in Harriet Tubman’s footsteps on the<br />

Eastern Shore’s Underground Railroad Byway. With three landmark<br />

celebrations and 7,000 miles of gorgeous coastline, there’s never been<br />

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ON THE TOWN: BALTIMORE<br />

STREET SCENE: THE AVENUE BY EVAN SERPICK<br />

From bikers to beatniks, The Avenue has transformed into an indie enclave worth exploring.<br />

The Hampden section of North Baltimore long had a reputation as the domain of bikers and laborers,<br />

who came from the west to work at the mills nearby. But in the ’90s, artists looking for cheap rent<br />

invaded, as they do, and soon hip bookstores, trendy boutiques and indie-rock venues sprouted.<br />

Refreshingly, the neighborhood never quite relinquished its working class roots and exists today as<br />

a friendly and diverse area known for great shopping and food, all centered on the main commercial<br />

strip of 36th Street, between Falls Road and Beech Street, known to locals quite simply as “The Avenue.”<br />

37TH STREET<br />

FALLS ROAD<br />

ATOMIC BOOKS<br />

1 “Bookstore” is an understatement.<br />

This temple to the arts of print and pop<br />

culture carefully curates a broad spectrum<br />

of zines, comics, magazines, toys and<br />

ephemera. No wonder Baltimore’s own<br />

“King of Trash,” filmmaker John Waters, is<br />

a regular and held a recent book signing<br />

here. atomicbooks.com<br />

13.5% WINE BAR<br />

2 The cozy, woody interior of this<br />

wine bar tests the neighborhood’s upper<br />

limits for refinement, but squeaks by on<br />

account of its dependably friendly staff<br />

and relatively reasonable prices. There are<br />

more than 40 wines available by the glass,<br />

along with a menu of small plates—try<br />

the smoked shrimp empanadas and pork<br />

belly sliders. The best part has to be the<br />

crowd—generally attractive and laidback,<br />

just like the block. 13.5winebar.com<br />

GOLDEN WEST CAFÉ<br />

3 This cozy café is an epicenter of<br />

the nabe’s hipster contingent with a<br />

purposefully scruffy appeal. By day, gorge<br />

on a mélange of comfort foods—from<br />

tilapia tacos to buffalo tofu—under the<br />

watchful eyes of the giant mounted moose<br />

head. By night, hang in the bar at the back<br />

and play pinball and video games until the<br />

late night shows by (mostly) local indie-rock<br />

and electronica acts. goldenwestcafe.com<br />

1<br />

HICKORY AVENUE<br />

3620<br />

1117 1105<br />

2 3<br />

4<br />

3544<br />

921<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 70<br />

5<br />

ELM AVENUE<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

BEECH AVENUE<br />

W 36TH STREET<br />

TRUE VINE RECORDS<br />

4 This tiny but irreplaceable shop is<br />

perennially placed on lists of the country’s<br />

top record stores by the likes of Rolling<br />

Stone and Spin. What True Vine lacks in<br />

quantity—you could fit 15 of them into<br />

your average record store—it more than<br />

makes up in quality, with its impeccable<br />

collection of hard-to-find records and<br />

CDs from small and international labels.<br />

The staff has enough collective music<br />

knowledge to power a small village of<br />

music bloggers. thetruevinerecordshop.com<br />

5 TROHV<br />

If you’ve ever been in a Baltimore<br />

home where everywhere your eye falls<br />

there’s some piece of furniture or wallhanging<br />

that is so cool, so beautiful and<br />

so functional that you wish you had it,<br />

chances are the owner shops at Trohv. This<br />

store is the ultimate in home décor, mixing<br />

new and vintage, southern sensibility<br />

and urban grit to make a shop that’s hip<br />

without being pretentious, from the giant<br />

gold accordion lamps to the small whiskey<br />

flasks, inscribed with “put some hair on<br />

your chest.” trohvshop.com


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ON THE TOWN: BALTIMORE<br />

HON CULTURE BY EVAN SERPICK<br />

Loud, colorful and brash, Hons are a Baltimore staple. But what makes one of these larger-than-life locals?<br />

I<br />

n some towns, local folks will greet you<br />

as sir or ma’am. In others, you might get<br />

a sweetheart or a dear. In Baltimore, you<br />

get hon‘, short for honey, and said with<br />

Baltimore’s own inimitable drawl, which<br />

makes it sounds kinda like “hawn.”<br />

Over time, a subculture formed around<br />

the word. It became a style, a way of life.<br />

Local women, particularly those from<br />

ANIMAL PRINTS<br />

Hons are anything but<br />

quiet, and their style is as<br />

loud as their mouths. These<br />

brash women love to turn it<br />

up with floral prints, hot pink<br />

and bold animal prints, making<br />

them hard to overlook.<br />

CLUNKY JEWELRY<br />

Hons make up for their lack of<br />

fine-gem sparkle with dimestore<br />

volume, sporting endless<br />

embellishments. Find Hon<br />

accoutrements at Fells Point’s<br />

Killer Trash (602 S Broadway).<br />

mostly white, working class neighborhoods<br />

like Highlandtown, Canton and Hampden,<br />

came to be known as “Hons,” creating a<br />

style all their own—one that is not only<br />

distinctly Baltimore but celebrated by locals,<br />

particularly in Hampden, home to Cafe<br />

Hon (cafehon.com) and “Honfest” (June 9-10,<br />

honfest.net), an annual celebration where<br />

Baltimore’s Best Hon is crowned.<br />

CURLERS<br />

Along with handkerchiefs in<br />

the hair, curlers define the more<br />

domestic Hon. This common<br />

variant can still be seen strutting<br />

down Baltimore’s byways in clothes<br />

not meant for the light of day, as<br />

happy and comfortable as can be.<br />

HOUSE DRESS<br />

Comfort reigns in the wacky<br />

world of Hons. Like curlers,<br />

these formless muu-muus,<br />

usually in gaudy floral prints,<br />

are part of the more domestic<br />

Hon look.<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 72<br />

BEEHIVES<br />

The throwback hairstyle,<br />

achieved with cans of Aquanet—<br />

and still delivered perfectly<br />

at Phyllis’ Hair Design in<br />

Highlandtown (528 S Conkling St;<br />

410-675-6715), is part of the<br />

motif for the more glamorous Hons.<br />

PINK<br />

The color, and particularly pink<br />

flamingos, are a frequent Hon<br />

trope—Cafe Hon has a threestory<br />

ceramic pink flamingo out<br />

front—in tribute to the samenamed<br />

John Waters film.<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

The picture below features Baltimore’s<br />

Best Hon 2008, Agnes “Punkin’” Hurley<br />

(center) and 2009 winner Charlene Osbourne<br />

(right). After winning, Punkin’ demonstrated<br />

a classic Hon sense of humor and lack of<br />

shame by proclaiming, “Folks, I’m tellin’ ya,<br />

I don’t know whether the water’s gonna run<br />

down my leg or out my eyes!”<br />

So what makes an authentic Hon?<br />

CAT EYE GLASSES<br />

This peculiar brand of eyewear—<br />

high fashion circa 1955—found<br />

favor among Hons. Choose from a<br />

wide array of styles at Hampden’s<br />

HonTown (1001 W 36th St; 410-<br />

243-1001).<br />

CHUCK RITZ (FROM THE BOOK MY<br />

YEAR AS BALTIMORE’S BEST HON)


ENJOYBALTIMORECOUNTY.COM | 410-887-2849


ON THE TOWN: BALTIMORE<br />

SIMON SAYS<br />

In 2002, former Baltimore Sun journalist David Simon exposed the world to the streets of Baltimore—<br />

the corners, the cops and the crooked politicians—with the critically acclaimed HBO series The Wire. Some<br />

think it stained public perception of Baltimore (several politicians publicly disowned the series), but Simon used<br />

the city as a template for a universal narrative, one that plagues inner-cities nationwide. He’s also managed<br />

to infuse the local economy with around $300 million dollars with his three Baltimore-based shows, The Wire,<br />

The Corner and Homicide, and founded a non-profit program dedicated to the development of West Baltimore<br />

youth. Now, 10 years later, the MacArthur Genius splits his time between his urban muse and New Orleans (the<br />

setting for his latest HBO series Treme) but found a moment to chat with Go about the city he calls home.<br />

You live in Baltimore and<br />

New Orleans…<br />

“My permanent life is in<br />

Baltimore. I love ordinary<br />

Baltimore stuff that’s<br />

neighborhood based—the one very<br />

strong thing about Baltimore is its local<br />

places—pedestrian things that hold the<br />

community together like corner bars and<br />

diners. It’s a very livable city if you are in<br />

the America that didn’t get left behind.<br />

I have great aff ection for the municipal<br />

markets and smaller satellite markets.”<br />

Both your cities are known for their<br />

quirks. How is Baltimore diff erent from<br />

New Orleans?<br />

“Sometimes when I come home and<br />

go to places I haven’t seen in months I<br />

remember how wonderful those places<br />

are—like Charleston’s or all of Cindy’s<br />

[chef Cindy Wolf] restaurants and Petit<br />

Louis and Cinghiale, a great Northern<br />

Italian place. One of the best Afghan<br />

restaurants in the country is in Baltimore<br />

and run by Harmid Karzai’s brother.”<br />

But New Orlean’s food is legendary.<br />

“They know how to do seafood really<br />

well in New Orleans, but they ruin the<br />

blue crabs, so Maryland’s got them beat.<br />

You absolutely have to steam them. Last<br />

year, we had a crab-off on the Treme set,<br />

and you know what? The steamed crabs<br />

Baltimore-style were all gone. Devoured.”<br />

How has Baltimore changed since<br />

The Wire?<br />

“It’s changed in incremental ways.<br />

Most of the areas in The Wire have been<br />

economically devalued even beyond the<br />

point of when I wrote about them. Other<br />

Clockwise: Detective McNulty (Dominic<br />

West, left) and Moreland (Wendell Pierce,<br />

right) give drug dealer D’Angelo (Lawrence<br />

Gilliard Jr., center) a friendly warning at “the<br />

Pit.” Lt. Daniels (Lance Reddick) and Obamafavorite<br />

Omar (Michael Kenneth Williams)<br />

look serious.<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 74<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

EVERETT COLLECTION


JONATHAN HANSON/AURORA PHOTOS/CORBIS<br />

parts of the city are entirely viable now,<br />

like South Baltimore, North Baltimore.<br />

We built two Americas and they co-exist<br />

uncomfortably side-by-side.”<br />

You created one of the most unlikely and<br />

beloved anti-heroes in television history,<br />

one that President Obama recently<br />

claimed as his favorite character—Omar.<br />

“Omar is a romantic fi gure. We made him<br />

a mythical fi gure; he was defi nitely written<br />

with fi lm iconography and story telling in<br />

mind. We were dealing with archetypes<br />

that were very powerful, but we never<br />

expected him to connect the way he did<br />

with the audience.”<br />

You paint a pretty bleak picture<br />

of Baltimore.<br />

“I’m hoping that, politically, the show<br />

proves to be hyperbolic and that the<br />

American future is diff erent than what<br />

we’re covering—I wouldn’t mind being<br />

wrong. I want to see the game on Sunday<br />

too. That’s part of living in Baltimore, every<br />

year it’s plausible to believe in the Ravens<br />

and every year we close our eyes and hope<br />

that the Orioles have enough pitching.”<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 75<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

BY JAIME LOWE<br />

But you’re not the<br />

fi rst to use Baltimore as<br />

a muse…<br />

“There’s a lot of story<br />

telling in Baltimore—<br />

some of it has elements<br />

of truth and a lot of<br />

wit. Barry Levinson’s<br />

Baltimore is no less real<br />

in its story telling—his<br />

movies Diner and Avalon,<br />

they are of a time, and<br />

John Waters (Hairspray)<br />

is a delight! He <strong>may</strong> be<br />

the greatest unlikely<br />

champion of Baltimore’s<br />

idiosyncrasies; he<br />

captures something<br />

diff erent about Baltimore.<br />

And if you have read<br />

anything by Ann Tyler,<br />

she’s nailed the blue<br />

blooded Baltimore.<br />

These are all parts of<br />

Baltimore—The Wire was<br />

not all of Baltimore, I’d<br />

never claim it was.”<br />

You were named a<br />

MacArthur Fellow last<br />

year, why do you think<br />

they awarded it to you?<br />

“Initially, a lawyer called<br />

and left a message, so I<br />

thought I was going to<br />

be sued by someone, I<br />

expected that someone<br />

would claim I had hit a<br />

dog or I had a teenage son I didn’t know<br />

about. So, I didn’t call back right away.<br />

Eventually, I called and gritted my teeth<br />

and waited. When she explained what<br />

happened I thought ‘this is hilarious.’<br />

I’m ashamed about the money because<br />

I’m doing well, but wanted to do<br />

something in the spirit of the gift. I<br />

realized that the MacArthur made it<br />

possible to credibly argue stories that<br />

should be on television. My audiences<br />

are marginal, but there’s a little bit of<br />

gravitas that the MacArthur thing<br />

gave me.”


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MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN<br />

BY HANNAH SERENA GOLDSTEIN<br />

IN BRIEF<br />

MAY AVERAGES:<br />

65˚F<br />

3.40 in 47˚F<br />

TIME ZONE:<br />

CST<br />

AREA CODES:<br />

414<br />

FOUNDED:<br />

NEWS 1846 FLASH<br />

POPULATION:<br />

947,735<br />

AIRPORT:<br />

General Mitchell<br />

International<br />

Airport<br />

WEBSITE:<br />

visitmilwaukee.org<br />

NEWS FLASH CULTURE CALENDAR<br />

Ain’t No Mountain// Mountain biking is one sport that has<br />

traditionally been strictly outdoors—and specifically for<br />

mountains. But the 2004 opening of Ray’s MTB indoor<br />

mountain biking park in Cleveland, OH—and now its new<br />

sister outpost in Milwaukee—has changed that. Take a<br />

lesson with one of the instructors, or pay a flat rate for a full<br />

day of free biking on the indoor courses. raysmtb.com/mke<br />

Child’s Play// Get your hands dirty at the Milwaukee Art<br />

Museum’s Kohl’s Education Center. The Center, which<br />

opened in February, invites kids<br />

to explore its lab—a behind-thescenes<br />

look at the museum—<br />

where they can X-ray a painting,<br />

change the frames on works of<br />

art, or create their own pieces<br />

to take home in the specially<br />

designed art studio. mam.org<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 81<br />

May 18-20<br />

SPRING VINTAGE WEEKEND<br />

Start your engines—even ones that<br />

are approaching their octogenarian<br />

birthdays—with the Elkhart Lake<br />

kickoff to the Road America season.<br />

Oldies being goodies has never rang<br />

truer—just try not to overheat ogling<br />

the old beauties that descend on this<br />

four-mile track for races, prizes and<br />

tours during the annual Spring Vintage<br />

Weekend. roadamerica.com<br />

May 30<br />

CEDARBURG MAXWELL STREET DAYS<br />

Feel free to fl ea to your vintage heart’s content at this year’s fi rst<br />

of four annual Maxwell Street Fairs in Cedarburg, just northwest<br />

of the city. Seven hundred booths of vintage clothes, antiques,<br />

pottery and homemade goods should satiate any style maven.<br />

cedarburgfi redept.com/services/maxwell_street_days.htm<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

ON THE<br />

TOWN<br />

BY THE NUMBERS<br />

16 the number<br />

of Harleys you<br />

can see at the<br />

Harley-Davidson<br />

Museum<br />

2,500<br />

the length in feet of the hour hand on each<br />

of the Allen-Bradley Tower Clock’s four<br />

the number of animals that reside in<br />

faces—the world’s largest four-faced clock the Milwaukee County Zoo<br />

450+<br />

2,500<br />

the average number of performers<br />

at Milwaukee’s Summerfest, making<br />

it the nation’s largest music festival


ON THE TOWN: MILWAUKEE<br />

HOMEGROWN HOME COOKIN’ BY JEANETTE HURT<br />

Graze on farm-fresh food right on the field it was grown in.<br />

YUPPIE HILL<br />

POULTRY<br />

BURLINGTON, WI<br />

yuppiehillpoultry.com<br />

► THE PRODUCTS: Eggs, free–range turkeys<br />

and Berkshire hogs and chickens.<br />

► THE PLATES: Enjoy fi ve-course, gourmet,<br />

BYOB dinners every second Saturday of<br />

the month and hearty breakfasts every<br />

fourth Sunday featuring the talents of<br />

Chef Tom Cicero. Don’t miss this<br />

month’s Mother’s Day brunch. Local<br />

products such as Bowers produce and<br />

Rushing Waters trout are paired with the<br />

farm’s eggs, poultry and sausages,<br />

which are made fresh in the farm’s<br />

sausage kitchen.<br />

► THE PRICE: Breakfasts are $10, served<br />

family style; dinners are $35 and up.<br />

► THE PLACE: While this is a rugged<br />

working farm, the restaurant is located<br />

in a charming, country-chic barn that<br />

used to house farmer Lynn Lein’s 2500<br />

“girls,” er, chickens, who moved into<br />

a brand-new, state of the art barn<br />

in 2008.<br />

► THE PLUG: “Breakfast is pretty much<br />

just a good, old-fashioned farm<br />

breakfast. Dinners aren’t stuff y or fancy,<br />

but they are fi ve course dinners,” Lein<br />

says. “We never hurry anybody. It’s just a<br />

nice, quiet evening out and nobody ever<br />

leaves here hungry.”<br />

►<br />

►<br />

►<br />

►<br />

WELLSPRING ORGANIC<br />

FARM AND EDUCATION AND<br />

RETREAT CENTER<br />

wellspringinc.org<br />

THE PRODUCTS: Organic vegetables, fruits<br />

and eggs.<br />

THE PLATES: June through September, this<br />

cute B&B and hostel hosts monthly dinners<br />

with visiting Milwaukee-area chefs such as<br />

Peter Sandroni of La Merenda. Visitors can<br />

take classes based around specifi c produce,<br />

taught by Chef K.C. Thorson of K.C’s<br />

Kafe, and, every third Thursday from May<br />

through November, a culinary coaching<br />

service with wine and a dinner of fresh<br />

veggies grown onsite teaches people how to<br />

eat more healthfully. Don’t miss the Taste<br />

of Wellspring on Sept. 15.<br />

THE PRICE: $20 in advance, $25 day of, $75<br />

for Taste of Wellspring<br />

THE PLACE: This place is rustic and a bit<br />

retro, but situated on 36 beautiful green acres<br />

next to the Milwaukee River, with more than<br />

88 species of birds fl ocking onsite.<br />

► THE PLUG: “The monthly cooking classes<br />

focus on obscure veggies like rutabaga<br />

or fennel or kohlrabi that people are<br />

uncomfortable with. Our chefs then<br />

create four diff erent recipes with them,”<br />

says Angela Rester, executive director. “At<br />

Taste of Wellspring, each course is made<br />

by a diff erent chef, featuring ingredients<br />

harvested from the farm.”<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 82<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

BRAISE RESTAURANT AND<br />

BRAISE ON THE GO<br />

CULINARY SCHOOL<br />

braiselocalfood.com<br />

► THE PRODUCTS: Top-rate toques, by<br />

the dozen.<br />

► THE PLATES: Chef David Swanson brings<br />

diners to farms and farmers to diners,<br />

creating elaborate meals both at local farms<br />

and at his restaurant—where local farmers<br />

remain the stars of the show and are usually<br />

in attendance to answer any questions.<br />

Sunday suppers, which include three<br />

courses and wine or beer, are held every last<br />

Sunday of the month and feature a diff erent<br />

farmer and theme, generally focusing on a<br />

specifi c product, such as, say, suckling pig.<br />

►<br />

THE PRICE: $45 to $55 for Sunday Suppers<br />

► THE PLACE: The restaurant is a<br />

Community Supported Restaurant that<br />

allows diners to sign up and support it. In<br />

return, they get free meals and can attend<br />

various events and classes—sort of like a<br />

food co-op. Swanson also runs the very<br />

fi rst Restaurant Supported Agriculture, in<br />

which he connects local farms with local<br />

chefs to fi ll each one’s needs.<br />

► THE PLUG: “There’s such a disconnect<br />

between what’s being grown and what’s<br />

being consumed,” Swanson says. “We<br />

work with about 400 diff erent local farms.<br />

It’s about trying to promote local food in<br />

Wisconsin and keeping the economy local.”


Photo by Richard Brodzeller<br />

Open year round<br />

Located 10 minutes west<br />

of downtown Milwaukee<br />

at I-94 and Hwy 45.<br />

414-771-3040<br />

milwaukeezoo.org<br />

YOUR DESTINATION<br />

FOR MILWAUKEE<br />

ENTERTAINMENT<br />

Whether you are popping in for the weekend<br />

or Milwaukee is your hometown, visit<br />

TapMilwaukee.com for endless entertainment<br />

options — dining, music, nightlife, movies,<br />

events, arts, reviews and more.<br />

Happy landings.<br />

MUSIC NIGHTLIFE MOVIES DINING REVIEWS


ON THE TOWN: MILWAUKEE<br />

POOL PARTY BY JEANETTE HURT<br />

Wisconsin has the most water parks on the planet making choosing the right one a labor of love. We’ve<br />

rounded up the steepest, highest, fastest and plain best rides and slides for you to conquer.<br />

Canyon River<br />

Moose Mountain Falls, Timber Ridge<br />

Lodge at Grand Geneva Resort, timberridgeresort.com<br />

Float your troubles away on one of the longest lazy rivers<br />

in the country—idling through 560 winding feet of Canyon<br />

River on single or double tubes, taking ten blissful minutes<br />

from top to bottom.<br />

FUN FACT: Moose Mountain became the first green water<br />

park in Wisconsin when the Timber Ridge Lodge reduced its<br />

energy consumption by 11 percent.<br />

90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0<br />

Splashdown<br />

Breaker Bay water park at the<br />

Blue Harbor Resort, blueharborresort.com/waterpark<br />

You’ll get dizzy just looking at this slide. Swoosh down this<br />

60 foot high slide, which’ll pump you down 304 feet among<br />

3000 gallons of water per minute.<br />

FUN FACT: It’s the only water park with a view of<br />

Lake Michigan.<br />

Timber Rapids and<br />

Avalanche Falls<br />

Moose Mountain Falls, Timber Ridge Lodge<br />

at Grand Geneva Resort, timberridgeresort.com<br />

This ride is not for the faint of heart. From 35 feet above<br />

the ground, plunge down a 300-foot flume—either on a<br />

raft or raftless—that spits you out just 20 seconds after<br />

your launch.<br />

FUN FACT: Originally a Playboy Club, the only “water park”<br />

at this resort used to be a fountain in the lobby that the<br />

bunnies took a dip in.<br />

HOW MANY<br />

FEET TALL<br />

CANYON RIVER<br />

TIMBER RAPIDS AND AVALANCHE FALLS<br />

THE SOAKER<br />

SPLASH DOWN<br />

HURRICANE RUN<br />

JAMAICAN VILLAGE<br />

Hurricane Run<br />

Chaos Water Park Resort at the Metropolis Resort,<br />

metropolisresort.com<br />

Climb up 45 feet before getting wet and wild down 480<br />

feet of twists and turns at speeds up to 15.8 miles per<br />

hour—and bring a friend because this ride is made<br />

for two.<br />

FUN FACT: This water park has an award-winning comic<br />

book theme and the world’s only comic book playground.<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 84<br />

HOW MANY<br />

FEET LONG<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

The Soaker<br />

Breaker Bay water park at the Blue Harbor Resort,<br />

blueharborresort.com/waterpark<br />

Climb three stories before whooshing down these wild<br />

rides. This tubular slide duo will zip you outside the<br />

building and then zap you right back in, taking you 292<br />

feet in under 30 seconds before splashing you into a<br />

plunge pool.<br />

FUN FACT: The Blue Harbor just finished a $2.5 million<br />

renovation, including adding a pool bar, cabanas, bocce<br />

courts and a putting green right next to the outdoor pool.<br />

0 100 200 300 400 500 600<br />

Jamaican Village<br />

Paradise Landing at the Hilton Milwaukee City Center,<br />

paradiselanding.com<br />

While other parks try to out-speed, out-steep and outsplash<br />

each other with increasingly precarious and daring<br />

slides, this place prides itself on taking it easy. Rides here<br />

are calmer and the pool’s shallower than those of bigger<br />

parks. The tallest of a trifecta of three-level water slides<br />

tops out at just 16.3 feet and is only 85 feet long.<br />

FUN FACT: This is one of only urban water parks in<br />

the country.


EVERY JACKET TELLS A STORY<br />

JUNE 16 - SEPTEMBER 3<br />

Presented by the Harley-Davidson Museum ®<br />

in partnership with EMP Museum<br />

© <strong>2012</strong>. H-D. The Harley-Davidson Museum logo<br />

is among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC.<br />

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ON THE TOWN: MILWAUKEE<br />

LOCAL FACES BY JEANETTE HURT<br />

Three locals—an award-winning newspaper columnist, a nationally known funnyman and one of the<br />

biggest collectors of self-taught art—share why they call Milwaukee their home.<br />

Jim Stingl<br />

Stingl is a beloved Milwaukee Journal<br />

Sentinel columnist who covers everything<br />

Milwaukee, from the weird to the wonderful.<br />

His column earned him the National<br />

Headliner Award for best local column in<br />

the country with its uncanny ability to<br />

track down the real stories behind all those<br />

oddball things that make Milwaukee.<br />

What’s your favorite Milwaukee hangout?<br />

“I don’t think I’ve ever missed a<br />

Summerfest (summerfest.com, see page<br />

32) or a State Fair. I found evidence in my<br />

mother’s diaries that I went to Summerfest<br />

even before it moved to the lakefront. In the<br />

summer, I love hanging out on a pontoon<br />

boat in the Milwaukee River. You pick it up<br />

in Pere Marquette Park, and you drive it<br />

up and down the river and into the harbor.<br />

Sometimes you can stop at bars along the<br />

way, but I’m not much of a bar guy.”<br />

Not a bar guy? This is Brew City! How about<br />

landmarks, since there are so many odd ones.<br />

“I love showing visitors that boathouse on<br />

[3133 N] Cambridge, and, of course, I get a<br />

kick out of those cars that are half-buried<br />

on the lawns at 2659 N Humboldt Avenue<br />

and 4531 S Lake Drive. The one on Lake<br />

Drive has a phone booth, airplane parts<br />

and all sorts of things.”<br />

What do you think surprises visitors about<br />

Brew City?<br />

“People are surprised at the wealth of food<br />

options. At the paper, one of the most<br />

common lunch trips is to go to the El Rey<br />

grocery story on Chavez Drive (elreyfoods.<br />

com). Their lunch counter serves the best<br />

tacos in town.”<br />

Anthony Petullo<br />

This art collector has amassed one of the<br />

most significant private collections of<br />

outsider and self-taught art in the country.<br />

He recently donated most of it—312 pieces<br />

to be precise—to the Milwaukee Art Museum<br />

(mam.org). A special exhibit, Accidental<br />

Genius: Art from the Anthony Petullo Collection,<br />

runs through the first week of this month.<br />

Your collection is featured at the Milwaukee<br />

Art Museum; you must have spent a good<br />

amount of time there. Any special tips?<br />

“Always take the headsets. The little placards<br />

don’t tell you very much. If you spend an<br />

hour in the special exhibition, take another<br />

hour and go see something in the permanent<br />

collection. It’s really worth it. And when<br />

you walk through Windover Hall [the main<br />

Calatrava addition that almost looks like a<br />

ship], turn around when you get to the bow<br />

and look up again. It’s a very diff erent sight.”<br />

When you’re not looking at art, collecting art or<br />

listening to commentary about art, where do<br />

you go for an extra helping of culture?<br />

“The Milwaukee Rep (milwaukeerep.<br />

com). I’m a longtime subscriber of 30<br />

years. I love the repertory theater. If we<br />

have visitors with kids, a great place to<br />

go is the zoo (milwaukeezoo.org). I also<br />

love the lakefront. My wife and I love<br />

dining, especially at the Lake Park Bistro<br />

(lakeparkbistro.com). I recommend the<br />

chef ’s menu of the day, but I also gravitate<br />

towards the trout or roasted chicken.”<br />

Any other favorite restaurants?<br />

“Crazy Water (crazywatermilwaukee.com)—<br />

Peg, the chef, makes great food with a good<br />

wine selection.”<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 86<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

John McGivern<br />

Filmgoers <strong>may</strong> remember him from The<br />

Princess Diaries, but here the local legend<br />

is best known for his one-man shows,<br />

including Emmy award-winning The Early<br />

Stories of John McGivern, which is about<br />

growing up as the third-born of six kids in<br />

an Irish Catholic Milwaukee family, and his<br />

Wisconsin-centric show on PBS, Around<br />

the Corner with John McGivern, in which he<br />

explores Milwaukee neighborhoods with his<br />

trademark breakneck comic speed.<br />

You moved away from Milwaukee for a time,<br />

what changed?<br />

“I moved back in 2001. I had been away<br />

since 1978, and what I knew growing<br />

up, the smells of the breweries—Pabst,<br />

Schlitz—that was all gone. In its place<br />

was a much more active city. People<br />

are always surprised at just how rich<br />

downtown is. The Milwaukee Rep put<br />

Milwaukee on the map, and there are six<br />

union theater companies. For a city of<br />

this size, that’s a lot.”<br />

Having been drawn back to the city, what are<br />

your favorite places?<br />

“The public market [where local vendors<br />

sell fresh food] (milwaukeepublicmarket.<br />

org). Then, in the Third Ward,<br />

the Broadway Theater Center<br />

(broadwaytheatrecenter.com), and, across<br />

the bridge, the new Next Act Theater<br />

(nextact.org). In my neighborhood, I<br />

always go to Buckley’s on Cass and Wells<br />

(buckleysmilwaukee.com). It’s a family–<br />

owned sort of place that reminds me of an<br />

Irish Pub. The owner, Mike, and his wife<br />

and their kids all work there. They’ve got<br />

great food and a great brunch.”


Chicago via Milwaukee? You bet.<br />

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Savvy travelers choose MKE – Chicago’s low-fare, easy travel airport<br />

<br />

You Gotta<br />

See Greendale!<br />

Over 37,000 flowers await you along main street of<br />

Greendale, Wis. It’s a “Norman Rockwell town”!<br />

THIS QUAINT TOWN on the south edge of Milwaukee—a stone’s throw<br />

from Lake Michigan—has a lot to offer individual travelers or bus groups.<br />

Here are seven highlights of this charming, historical village:<br />

1. One of only three “Greenbelt Towns” in the nation; created in 1934.<br />

2. Only town in the U.S. with “backward houses” (picture windows of<br />

all original homes face rear for better view of back lawn and garden).<br />

3. Home of the largest Norman Rockwell collection in the entire Midwest.<br />

4. Home of country’s only “Limerick Hall of Fame”. Look and laugh!<br />

5. Home of “Barbershop Capital of the Midwest”. Quartets abound.<br />

6. Down-home food at “Harmony Inn the Village” restaurant; where<br />

barbershop quartets show up spontaneously to sing for free meals.<br />

7. Home of Taste of Home test kitchen and Close-Out Center, offering<br />

books, garments, kitchen gadgets for as much as 80% off.<br />

For more information: www.greendalevisitorcenter.com<br />

Call 414/423-3080 for individual or group reservations.<br />

Visit MitchellAirport.com


ON THE TOWN: MILWAUKEE<br />

STREET SCENE: SOUTH KINNICKINNIC AVENUE<br />

You don’t have to dig too deep to find offbeat gems on this gentrified thoroughfare.<br />

Once the main drag of a small steel factory town, South<br />

Kinnickinnic—“KK” to locals—bisects Milwaukee’s<br />

Bayview neighborhood. A synecdoche of the ‘hood,<br />

the avenue has evolved beyond its blue-collar<br />

roots and become a vibrant corridor of<br />

eclectic bars and shops. Cooler-than-thou Milwaukeeans<br />

call it “Milwaukee’s other East Side”—and local<br />

Bayviewers think it even outdoes the original, trendy<br />

East Side lakeside community, sporting bumper<br />

stickers that call it “Milwaukee’s Better East Side.”<br />

Here are a few reasons why they might be right.<br />

STUDIO LOUNGE<br />

1 A combination art gallery and neighborhood bar, this<br />

sleekly continental lounge serves up fresh margaritas<br />

and mojitos alongside a changing lineup of art exhibitions<br />

(Joshua Sbert’s My Tortured Art and Soul opens May 17).<br />

The venue hosts a monthly “drink and draw,” in which<br />

visitors are encouraged to make art. They provide the<br />

theme, chipboard and wall space; you bring the art supplies<br />

and talent. byostudio.com<br />

BOULEVARD ENSEMBLE<br />

2 STUDIO THEATRE COMPANY<br />

This tiny storefront theater only seats about 50 people,<br />

but what it lacks in size it makes up for in variety. From<br />

comedies like Soccer Moms to David Mamet’s one-acts,<br />

a wide array of shows has been featured in the 26 years<br />

since artistic director Mark Bucher founded the theater.<br />

The best part? Tickets only cost $20. Its 27th season will<br />

close with the Midwest premiere of Micahel Golamco’s<br />

comedy Cowboy Versus Samurai (May 23 to June 24).<br />

boulevardtheatre.com<br />

LULU’S CAFÉ AND COCKTAILS<br />

3 When Lulu’s opened at the intersection of KK, Howell<br />

and Lincoln in 2001, Bayview had more hardware stores<br />

than restaurants. This pioneering café took over an old<br />

George Webb restaurant and became a destination in itself,<br />

as it was the first foodie restaurant to open in Bayview. In<br />

2004, its owners took over the decrepit bookstore next<br />

door, adding a bar and tripling its seating. For the real<br />

Lulu’s experience, get a side of Lulu’s bleu cheese sauce.<br />

lulubayview.com<br />

SUGAR MAPLE<br />

4 Okay, so it’s technically on Lincoln, but it’s just two<br />

doors down from KK, and it’s the Palm Tavern’s sister beer<br />

bar. It’s also one of the most notable bars in the city. With<br />

60 American craft beers on tap and dozens by the bottle,<br />

it’s no wonder that Draft magazine named it one of the best<br />

beer bars in the country. There’s a stage in the back for<br />

bands, and, if you skipped dinner, the bar serves up fresh<br />

bread and the soup of the day from local bistro, Triskele’s.<br />

mysugarmaple.com<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 88<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

SOUTH KINNICKINNIC AVENUE<br />

SOUTH HOWELL AVENUE


2261-2265<br />

2246<br />

3<br />

1<br />

2<br />

2250<br />

5<br />

2343<br />

441<br />

6<br />

4<br />

2479<br />

7<br />

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EAST LINCOLN AVENUE<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 89<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

BY JEANETTE HURT<br />

TIPTOP ATOMIC SHOP<br />

5 Need some coconut mugs for your tiki bash? A Sputnik<br />

wall clock? How about bacon wrapping paper? This snug<br />

little storefront is a haven for goodies from the atomic age<br />

that you never knew you needed but now simply must own.<br />

Alongside the household goods and furnishings, find the<br />

retro clothes to match. tip-top-atomic.com<br />

BRASS ROOSTER<br />

6 This hipster haberdashery, located in the downstairs<br />

storefront of the old Avalon theater, will cover your pate<br />

with panache. It offers custom fittings and shaving<br />

accessories, perfect for the well-groomed, modern man.<br />

brassrooster.com<br />

LUV UNLIMITED<br />

7 Impulse buyers, be forewarned: The eclectic collection<br />

of t-shirts, resale duds, LPs, incense, books and funny<br />

tchotchkes at this curio store might be too tempting to<br />

resist. And if the clothes, jewelry and do-dads don’t empty<br />

your wallet, there’s a Miss Pacman arcade game waiting to<br />

devour your quarters. luvunlimited.com<br />

COMPANION ANIMAL GALLERY<br />

8 You won’t find any actual doggies in this store’s<br />

window, but you will find pet portraiture, sculptures,<br />

prints and an array of canine clothes and hand-painted<br />

cards. If your pooch really is your best friend, this is the<br />

place to pick it up the perfect pup-friendly present.<br />

companionartgallery.com<br />

ANODYNE COFFEE ROASTING CO.<br />

9 KK boasts five different coffeehouses along its<br />

meandering route, but Anodyne is the only one that roasts<br />

its beans onsite. (You’ll smell the café’s mouth-watering<br />

scent from blocks away). Every Monday, Jim Sambol<br />

performs on his accordion, and every last Sunday you can<br />

catch the Cajun blues of acoustic duo Fox and Branch.<br />

anodynecoffee.com<br />

THE PALM TAVERN<br />

10 With 25 beers on tap and more than 200 in<br />

bottles, it’s hard to pick a pour, but once you make up<br />

your mind, your brew will be served in a glass to match<br />

its style. Or, if you prefer the harder stuff, choose from<br />

more than 100 whiskeys (including some imported from<br />

Japan), dozens of aged rums and exotic gins. 2989 S<br />

Kinnickinnic Ave<br />

EAST OKLAHOMA AVENUE


ON THE TOWN: MILWAUKEE<br />

CHEESE WHIZ<br />

A former political aide is<br />

making cheese history with<br />

his environmentally friendly<br />

cheese and Milwaukee’s<br />

first urban creamery.<br />

Wisconsin is famous<br />

for cheese—home<br />

of the Cheeseheads<br />

even—so one<br />

might think<br />

that the largest city of America’s<br />

Dairyland, Milwaukee, would be<br />

bursting with creameries, right?<br />

Wrong. While the city is home to<br />

Foamation, Inc.—the manufacturer<br />

of the foam-wedge cheeseheads—<br />

Milwaukee has never had an actual<br />

cheese factory. Until now.<br />

Clock Shadow Creamery,<br />

Milwaukee’s very fi rst creamery,<br />

opened its doors in April. Named<br />

for the nearby Allen Bradley<br />

clock tower in the Walker’s Point<br />

neighborhood, it’s the latest ecofriendly<br />

dairy venture of Wisconsin<br />

native and Master Cheesemaker<br />

Bob Wills, 57. A master cheesemaker<br />

is a specially earned title in<br />

Wisconsin—there are only 50, and<br />

earning it means the honoree has<br />

not only been making cheese for<br />

over a decade but has also passed a<br />

rigorous certifi cation system.<br />

The creamery is located in<br />

developer Juli Kaufman’s new $7.2<br />

A MATCH MADE IN MILWAUKEE<br />

Wine and cheese go together like peanut butter and jelly. While Wisconsin <strong>may</strong> be best<br />

known for its dairy, fine wines can also be found. Jessica Bell, founder of the Milwaukee<br />

Wine School and mywineschool.com, shares some of her favorite curd and vine match-ups.<br />

Clock Shadow Quark<br />

with Stone’s Throw Angelique<br />

sparkling wine.<br />

The almond nuances of<br />

the wine match the tangy<br />

mild-mannerec cheese.<br />

“This should be a new Wisconsin<br />

brunch staple,” she<br />

says of quark pancakes.<br />

Hook’s Aged Cheddar<br />

(five to 15-year) and<br />

Sto Stone’s Throw Zinfandel<br />

“T “This wine has dark fruit<br />

with an intense nose,”<br />

Bell states. “It has a fuller<br />

body, which is needed to<br />

match the salty flavors<br />

of the cheese. “<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 90<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

LoveTree Farmstead<br />

“Fishbait” (unaged, raw<br />

sheep’s s milk cheese)<br />

with Cedar Creek<br />

Cranberry Wine<br />

Delicate and crisp<br />

cranberry c<br />

notes mesh<br />

beautifully with the<br />

apple-hinted cheese.<br />

Bob Wills proudly presents a wheel of<br />

Cedar Groves’ Banquo aged<br />

sheep cheese.<br />

LaClare LaC Farms Evalon<br />

and a Wollersheim<br />

Prairie Fume<br />

“The gritty, fullflavored<br />

fl aged goat<br />

cheese ch goes with the<br />

wine’s floral, fruity and<br />

honey notes,”<br />

Bell explains.


CLOCK SHADOW BUILDING, MARK HINES<br />

“<br />

million mixed-use eco building,<br />

Our advantage is that we can get people these cheeses fresher than<br />

anyone else—you can’t truck in these products from overseas or even<br />

just across the state and have the kind of quality we provide.<br />

them. But Will’s reasoning is<br />

the Clock Shadow Building, simple: He wants to provide<br />

which uses net-zero energy and Milwaukeeans with the freshest<br />

has carbon neutral design. The cheese around.<br />

building is also constructed<br />

Using only cream from<br />

mostly from recycled materials nearby farms, Clock Shadow’s<br />

and boasts a geothermal heating lineup features fresh fromage<br />

system, a rooftop garden, and like quark, cheddar, jack,<br />

a water recovery system that mozzarella, ricotta and queso<br />

reuses rainwater and windpowered<br />

electricity.<br />

CEDAR GROVES<br />

Wills is a seasoned<br />

vet when it comes to<br />

environmentally sensitive<br />

dairying. He was one of<br />

the country’s fi rst organic<br />

cheesemakers and the fi rst<br />

American cheesemaker to<br />

make cheese free of bovine<br />

growth hormones. His<br />

Cedar Grove Creamery in<br />

Plain, WI, was the fi rst—<br />

and remains the only—<br />

cheese plant in the country<br />

to use a special fi ltration system blanco, as well as so-fresh-they-<br />

to clean wastewater from the squeak-in-your-mouth cheese<br />

cheesemaking process. And curds. These types of fresh<br />

now, in opening Milwaukee’s cheeses are best immediately<br />

fi rst creamery, Wills joins<br />

after they’re crafted, and, as<br />

only a handful of other urban they don’t need to be aged, they<br />

cheesemakers across the country. use less energy. “Our advantage<br />

Many dairy experts simply is that we can get people these<br />

don’t understand why a<br />

cheeses fresher than anyone<br />

cheesemaker would choose to else—you can’t truck in these<br />

put his plants in a city instead products from overseas or even<br />

of near the farms that supply just across the state and have<br />

Carr Valley<br />

Gran Canaria<br />

and Parallel 44<br />

Frozen Tundra<br />

This cheese’s white<br />

apricot and honey<br />

notes fit perfectly<br />

with the wine’s wellbalanced<br />

floral and<br />

honey ones.<br />

Sartori Bellavitano<br />

with Wollersheim<br />

Domaine du Sac<br />

This parmesan-like<br />

cheese is wholly<br />

addictive and<br />

balances out the<br />

light-bodied wine.<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 91<br />

the kind of quality we provide,”<br />

Wills says.<br />

“Bob is one of the most<br />

innovative cheesemakers<br />

in the country,” says<br />

Jeanne Carpenter, founder<br />

and executive director of<br />

Wisconsin Cheese Originals<br />

(an organization that shares<br />

information about new artisan<br />

cheese and cheesemakers).<br />

“He’s one of those visionary<br />

guys who is capable of seeing<br />

the future, but he’s also capable<br />

of making it happen. When<br />

Bob was planning this new<br />

creamery, a lot of people in the<br />

state’s dairy industry thought he<br />

was nuts. Once again, he’s going<br />

to prove them wrong.”<br />

In the creamery’s little retail<br />

Upland’s Pleasant<br />

Ridge Reserve<br />

and Stone’s Throw<br />

Pinot Noir<br />

“The wine’s ripe<br />

cherries and sweet<br />

spice balance out the<br />

deep intensity of the<br />

cheese,” Bell says.<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

CLOCK SHADOW<br />

store, Wills sells cheeses from<br />

Cedar Grove, along with some<br />

made by other Wisconsin<br />

cheesemakers who he’s<br />

mentored—Wills is also known<br />

as the go-to guy to help novices,<br />

and has groomed several famous<br />

Wisconsin cheesemakers. Mike<br />

Gingrich, of Uplands Cheese,<br />

fi rst made his award-winning<br />

Pleasant Ridge Reserve (an<br />

aged, raw milk Beaufort-style<br />

of cheese) at Cedar Grove, and,<br />

more recently, Katie Hedric of<br />

LaClare Farms began making<br />

fresh chevre there. Pleasant<br />

Ridge Reserve is the only cheese<br />

ever to win best of show three<br />

times at the American Cheese<br />

Society, and Hedric ’s Evalon<br />

became only the second goat<br />

Roelli Cheese Dunbarton<br />

Blue and Parallel<br />

44 Glacier Red<br />

“The fresh ripe berries<br />

of this medium<br />

intensity wine go very<br />

well with this bandagewrapped<br />

blue cheese.<br />

Serve wine chilled.”<br />

“BY JEANETTE HURT PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID CORSO


ON THE TOWN: MILWAUKEE<br />

CHEESE WHIZ CONTINUED<br />

cheese ever to win the U.S.<br />

Cheese Championship last year.<br />

“Bob was a big help,” Gingrich<br />

says. “We didn’t have any way of<br />

making our cheese. I talked to<br />

a couple of cheesemakers, but<br />

they didn’t want anything to do<br />

with us. Bob not only let us use<br />

his equipment and facility, but<br />

he also helped us fi gure out our<br />

procedure and our recipe for<br />

making cheese.”<br />

Hedric is equally appreciative<br />

of Wills. “Bob’s given me the<br />

ability to expand my line,”<br />

Hedric says. “He is very open to<br />

let people come in and do what<br />

they want to do, and he helps<br />

you along the way. Bob and his<br />

cheesemakers are just awesome.<br />

The knowledge they have, it’s not<br />

something you can read in<br />

a textbook.”<br />

Wills, who worked in politics<br />

before starting Cedar Grove,<br />

says he enjoys mentoring<br />

cheesemakers and plans<br />

to make Clock Shadow an<br />

incubator for young up-andcomers.<br />

“I am aware that there<br />

are only a certain number<br />

of years that I’m going to be<br />

doing what I’m doing, but the<br />

dairy industry is going to be an<br />

important part of Wisconsin’s<br />

economy long after that,” Wills<br />

says. “Young cheesemakers are<br />

just really exciting people to<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 92<br />

work with. They’ve chosen this<br />

as a profession, not because it<br />

was in their family, but because<br />

it’s what they believe in. They<br />

have an enthusiasm and desire for<br />

knowledge, and that’s exciting.”<br />

While Clock Shadow will be<br />

run by Wills, the day-to-day<br />

operations will be managed by<br />

another young cheesemaker,<br />

Ron Henningfeld. Wills also has<br />

plans to set up a cheesemaking<br />

apprenticeship program.<br />

“He’s nurturing the master<br />

cheesemakers of the future,”<br />

Carpenter says. “These people<br />

are going to be the rock stars<br />

of the cheese world, and Bob<br />

deserves all the kudos.”<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

Cheesy does it: Cheese<br />

curds being made from<br />

scratch, as well as fresh<br />

cheddar and other ready<br />

for purchase Cedar<br />

Grove cheeses.<br />

For those wanting to taste<br />

this life-changingly fresh<br />

cheese for themselves a visit to<br />

the creamery is a must. Clock<br />

Shadow shares space with local<br />

ice cream maker, Purple Door,<br />

and in the summer, tables line<br />

the sidewalk, where people<br />

munch on fresh curds and sweet<br />

sundaes. Visitors can even<br />

watch the cheese and ice cream<br />

being made.<br />

Wills has innovated once<br />

again: simultaneously<br />

rebuilding a once-struggling<br />

inner city area, helping create<br />

jobs and providing a sustainable<br />

model for local businesses,<br />

making him a true dairy king.


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Grand Resorts at Cap Cana<br />

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WHERE LIFELONG MEMORIES ARE MADE<br />

Looking for a new vacation spot? The kind of place where<br />

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Setting the standard for generations in northeast Florida, Ponte<br />

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from the northeast and the Midwest. Since then, families have<br />

been enjoying this 300-acre beach resort on Ponte Vedra Beach.<br />

Three generations of guests have been indulged in a world of deluxe<br />

accommodations, fine cuisine, top recreation and the best in classical<br />

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of beautiful Atlantic Ocean beaches, 36 holes of golf, 15 Har-Tru<br />

tennis courts, 4 heated swimming pools and a luxury, full service spa,<br />

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In 1997, the Ponte Vedra Inn & Club and the Lodge & Club<br />

combined their resources to create a collection of resort experiences<br />

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are uniquely different, they each maintain the industry’s highest<br />

standards of hospitality. The Club’s expertly trained staff of more<br />

than 700 share one common goal—to provide each guest with<br />

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If it’s an island destination that you’re searching for, then you need<br />

to check out the Grand Resorts at Cap Cana. As the name implies,<br />

this is a luxury resort in Punta Cana with lots to choose from. You can<br />

Navarre Beach<br />

Ponte Vedra Inn & Club<br />

select from the Sanctuary, the Fishing Lodge and opening in the fall of<br />

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In each tastefully appointed villa or suite you’ll find marble baths,<br />

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For more of a laid back sea-side vacation you need to look no further<br />

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and begin making those memories.


A Traditional Luxury Experience<br />

One of the most exciting resort collections in decades has just opened on the eastern tip<br />

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they offer the region’s most attractive new destination only 10 minutes from Punta Cana<br />

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The stunning 176-suite Sanctuary features Caribbean and European influenced<br />

architectural designs, five restaurants and bars, five pools, a lavish spa, and 18,000<br />

square feet of meeting space. Named for the Caribbean’s largest inland marina which it<br />

surrounds, Fishing Lodge features 298 spacious villas, several restaurants and bars, four<br />

pools, a 16th century-style wedding chapel, boutique retail space and 30,000 square<br />

feet of event space.<br />

The Lodge & Club<br />

Framed by graceful palms and rolling dunes, The Lodge & Club in Ponte Vedra Beach sparkles<br />

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Guest accommodations consist of 66 luxurious rooms and suites, each boasting Atlantic Ocean<br />

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SPECIAL SECTION // MAY <strong>2012</strong><br />

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Ponte Vedra Inn & Club<br />

The historic Ponte Vedra Inn & Club has been a northeast Florida landmark since its celebrated<br />

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News<br />

New Nonstops<br />

Baltimore/Washington — Aruba<br />

Milwaukee — Cancun<br />

San Juan — Tampa<br />

Tampa — Key West<br />

April 16, <strong>2012</strong><br />

Denver — Cancun<br />

May 24, <strong>2012</strong><br />

Ft. Lauderdale — San Juan<br />

Houston — San Antonio<br />

San Antonio — Cancun<br />

San Antonio — Mexico City<br />

All of us at AirTran Airways thank you for choosing<br />

us today. We look forward to seeing you again<br />

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May 25, <strong>2012</strong><br />

Austin — Cancun<br />

Houston — Austin<br />

June 3, <strong>2012</strong><br />

Baltimore/Washington —<br />

San Francisco<br />

Chicago (Midway) — Cancun<br />

Denver — Akron/Canton<br />

Denver — Dayton<br />

Denver — New York (LaGuardia)<br />

Orange County — Cabo San Lucas<br />

Orange County — Las Vegas<br />

Orange County — Mexico City<br />

Orange County — San Francisco<br />

Go. There's nothing stopping you.®<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 101 GO MAGAZINE<br />

New Destinations<br />

Austin<br />

Cabo San Lucas<br />

Mexico City<br />

Orange County


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Gogo on your laptop, tablet or mobile device and visit www.SkyMall.com/AirTranWiFi. Spend $125 or<br />

more and earn a free Gogo Pass valid on any single Internet session.<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 102<br />

GO MAGAZINE


Net Escapes A+ Rewards<br />

The only thing better than our low fares is never<br />

missing a single one. When you sign up for Net<br />

Escapes e-mails, we’ll send our special deals straight<br />

to your inbox. When we have sale fares, we send an<br />

e-mail announcement to our Net Escapes subscribers.<br />

We promise that your e-mail address won't be used<br />

for any purpose other than notifying you of these<br />

specials (see our privacy policy for more information).<br />

What are you waiting for? Sign up at<br />

net-escapes.com today and start saving!<br />

AirTran U<br />

HOME OF<br />

THE REALLY CHEAP<br />

STANDBY FLIGHT<br />

With AirTran U, a whole new world is<br />

opened up. Or at least 60 destinations. AirTran<br />

U lets anyone 18-22 fly standby for ultra-low<br />

fares. Plus, as a member of our A+ Rewards<br />

frequent flyer program, you’ll receive<br />

½ A+ credit.<br />

Visit AirTranU.com for details.<br />

ON THE FLY<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 103<br />

Easier. Faster.<br />

More rewarding.<br />

EARNING METHOD A+ CREDIT VALUE<br />

One-way coach fl ight 1<br />

One-way Business Class fl ight 1.5<br />

REDEMPTION METHOD A+ CREDITS<br />

One-way Business Class<br />

upgrade<br />

4<br />

One-way coach ticket 8<br />

One-way Business Class fl ight 16<br />

Enroll today at aplusrewards.com.<br />

Receive credit for the fl ight you are currently on by<br />

signing up now at airtran.com. A+ Rewards seats are<br />

subject to availability and blackout dates. Taxes and<br />

fees are extra — the September 11th security fee<br />

of up to $5.00 per one-way is not included.<br />

Passengers traveling to/from Puerto Rico are<br />

subject to additional government taxes of up to<br />

$33.40. Fares to/from the Caribbean and Mexico<br />

do not include additional government taxes<br />

of up to $230 one-way or $290 roundtrip.<br />

Groups<br />

Flying with 10 or more from one location?<br />

Then try AirTran Groups. You can reserve a block<br />

of pre-assigned seats, change passenger names<br />

up to two business days in advance, and enjoy<br />

fl exible payment schedules on deposits and<br />

fi nal payments.<br />

To get more details, call toll-free at 1-888-419-6109<br />

or visit airtran.com/groups.<br />

GO MAGAZINE


Corporate Travel<br />

Get more than a “thank you” the<br />

next time you travel on business.<br />

Let’s be honest, a “thank you” is nice, but perks are<br />

better. So here’s a bunch of them. By the time you’re<br />

done looking these over, it’ll be clear why the AirTran<br />

Airways A2B Corporate Travel Program is quite possibly<br />

the best in the business.<br />

- That fi rst bag fee? That won’t be happening.<br />

- Get priority seat assignments on all fare classes.<br />

On all fl ights.<br />

- Complimentary Business Class upgrades from<br />

Y and B classes.* Hello, free drinks.<br />

- Can’t commit? Change fees waived on all<br />

Y, B and M class fares.**<br />

- Nonrefundable restrictions waived on all<br />

Y, B and M class fares.**<br />

- Name changes on all fare classes with no<br />

additional charge.<br />

- Same-day standby allowed on all fare classes.<br />

- Priority boarding on all fl ights.<br />

- A dedicated ticket check-in counter at select airports.<br />

It’s OK to feel a bit famous.<br />

- Enroll in A+ Rewards, fl y Business Class and earn<br />

1.5 fl ight credits (50% bonus) for every one-way fl ight.<br />

The perks never end.<br />

For more information or to sign up today, visit<br />

a2bcorporate.com.<br />

*Confi rmed at time of purchase. **Provided reservation is changed or canceled at least one hour prior to departure.<br />

A2B CORPORATE TRAVEL<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 104<br />

GO MAGAZINE


Domestic North Terminal<br />

Baggage<br />

Service<br />

AirTran MARTA<br />

Ticket Counter<br />

MARTA<br />

Station<br />

Train to<br />

Rental Car Facility<br />

Baltimore/Washington International<br />

Thurgood Marshall Airport (BWI)<br />

International<br />

Arrivals<br />

E<br />

8<br />

Flights from Cancun<br />

and Montego Bay<br />

7<br />

6<br />

5<br />

4<br />

3<br />

Sky Caps<br />

at Curb<br />

Domestic South Terminal<br />

A<br />

Ticket Counter<br />

Upper Level<br />

Sky Cap<br />

7<br />

Baggage Claim #7<br />

1<br />

Customer<br />

3<br />

5<br />

Lower Level<br />

7<br />

9<br />

11<br />

13<br />

Service<br />

15<br />

Orlando International Airport (MCO)<br />

2<br />

1<br />

3<br />

B<br />

107 105<br />

1 2<br />

Ticket<br />

Counter<br />

Upper<br />

Level<br />

Domestic<br />

Ticket<br />

North Terminal<br />

Checkpoint<br />

Counters<br />

31 - 45<br />

T<br />

Terminal A<br />

Domestic<br />

Terminal Main<br />

Checkpoint<br />

Terminal B<br />

109<br />

108 106<br />

Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL)<br />

C<br />

110<br />

103 101<br />

28<br />

A<br />

29<br />

Sky Caps<br />

at Curb<br />

B<br />

D<br />

Baggage<br />

Claim<br />

Lower<br />

Level<br />

4<br />

C D E<br />

22<br />

20<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 105 GO MAGAZINE<br />

Milwaukee General Mitchell<br />

International Airport (MKE)<br />

Customer<br />

Service<br />

24 25<br />

23<br />

22<br />

15<br />

21<br />

14<br />

20<br />

Upper Level<br />

International<br />

Arrivals<br />

Flights arriving<br />

from<br />

Montego Bay<br />

21<br />

19<br />

16<br />

17<br />

14 15<br />

12 13<br />

10 11<br />

8<br />

6<br />

4<br />

2<br />

C<br />

11a<br />

11<br />

9 6<br />

7 4<br />

5<br />

1<br />

3<br />

D<br />

9<br />

F<br />

2<br />

Legend<br />

AirTran<br />

Concourse/Terminal<br />

Ticket Counters<br />

1<br />

A<br />

Mezzanine Level<br />

International Arrivals<br />

& Departures<br />

14<br />

5<br />

3<br />

1<br />

1a<br />

5<br />

Baggage Claim<br />

Lower Level<br />

Sky Cap<br />

Security Checkpoint<br />

Mass Transit<br />

Car Rental<br />

Baggage Claim<br />

Concourse/Terminal<br />

Designation<br />

Customer Service<br />

Train<br />

Restrooms<br />

Ticket Counter<br />

Lower Level<br />

4<br />

9<br />

7<br />

Shops/Restaurants<br />

International<br />

Ticket Counters<br />

Lower<br />

5 Level<br />

3<br />

1<br />

Sky Caps at Curb<br />

Lower Level<br />

E


ROUTES<br />

We serve 70 cities across the country. And everywhere we go, low fares follow.<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 106 GO MAGAZINE


BEVERAGES<br />

AirTran Airways is pleased to partner with The Coca-Cola Company,<br />

Mother Parker's and Anheuser-Busch to provide the most beverage<br />

choices on all of our flights. All cans and bottles used on board<br />

are recycled.<br />

Complimentary Beverages<br />

Bloody Mary<br />

Mix<br />

Regular and Decaf Coffee<br />

Orange Pekoe Tea<br />

Alcoholic Beverages<br />

All beverages are complimentary in Business Class. In the main cabin, Beer $5; Liquor, Cocktails and Wine $6.<br />

Cresta Blanca<br />

Cabernet*<br />

*while supplies last<br />

Coastal Ridge<br />

Merlot**<br />

**coming soon<br />

Coastal Ridge<br />

Chardonnay<br />

We accept Visa, MasterCard, American Express and Discover cards only. Earn double points<br />

when you use your AirTran Airways A+ Visa Card to pay for drinks on board.<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 107<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

PINK LEMONADE


Information for your safety and comfort<br />

Check-In<br />

AirTran Airways off ers four (4) convenient<br />

check-in options: online, online from mobile<br />

web, at the ByePass kiosk in the terminals<br />

and at the ticket counter. We recommend<br />

you check in at least 90 minutes before your<br />

scheduled departure time. Your assistance<br />

will help us achieve an on-time departure.<br />

Carry-On Baggage<br />

Customers are limited to one (1) bag per<br />

person, plus one (1) additional personal item,<br />

such as a handbag, overcoat, or wrap; camera;<br />

reasonable amount of reading material;<br />

laptop computer; briefcase; infant bag; or<br />

child-restraint seat if the child occupies the<br />

seat. All carry-on baggage must fi t<br />

completely underneath the seat in front of you<br />

or in an overhead compartment. Food or drink<br />

brought on board must be either consumed<br />

prior to takeoff or stowed as carry-on<br />

baggage. At times, the number of items<br />

allowed on board <strong>may</strong> be subject to space<br />

availability and government limitations. No<br />

carry-on item <strong>may</strong> exceed overall dimensions<br />

(length + width + height) of 55" and must<br />

remain within 17" long x 12" wide x 8.5" high<br />

to fi t underneath the seat. Occasionally, a<br />

customer <strong>may</strong> purchase an additional seat to<br />

transport an article not suitable for<br />

acceptance as checked or carry-on baggage.<br />

Please contact your AirTran Airways Ticket<br />

Agent for more information.<br />

Disability Assistance<br />

AirTran Airways off ers assistance to its<br />

customers with disabilities, including<br />

wheelchair assistance on the ground<br />

and in fl ight.<br />

Flight Deck Visits<br />

Visits to the fl ight deck are available while<br />

the aircraft is parked at the gate. Let your<br />

Flight Attendant know if you are interested<br />

in seeing it.<br />

Your Voice<br />

When it comes to your suggestions, we’re all<br />

ears and eyes. Reach us via e-mail by visiting<br />

airtran.com and following the “contact us”<br />

link near the bottom of the page.<br />

HELPFUL INFO<br />

For Your Safety<br />

Seatbelt<br />

Turbulence is the most likely threat to your<br />

safety aboard this fl ight. We do all we can<br />

to avoid turbulence; however, in the unlikely<br />

event of clear-air turbulence, AirTran Airways’<br />

policy requires that unless you absolutely<br />

must leave your seat, your seatbelt should<br />

remain fastened about you at all times.<br />

Smoking<br />

The use of electronic cigarettes and chewing<br />

tobacco is prohibited onboard the aircraft.<br />

Smoking is not permitted anytime while<br />

aboard an AirTran Airways fl ight, including in<br />

the lavatories. Also, federal law prohibits, and<br />

a passenger can be fi ned up to $2,000 for<br />

tampering with, disabling, or destroying an<br />

aircraft lavatory smoke detector. Thank you<br />

for your compliance and helping to keep our<br />

planes smoke-free.<br />

Security<br />

Passengers should refrain from carrying<br />

packages or articles belonging to someone<br />

else, and your baggage should be in your<br />

sight at all times when not in the custody of<br />

AirTran Airways.<br />

Crew Interference<br />

Please be advised that interference<br />

with a Crew Member’s duties is a violation<br />

of federal law. An incident report <strong>may</strong> be<br />

fi led with the FAA regarding a passenger’s<br />

behavior. Under federal law, no person <strong>may</strong><br />

assault, threaten, intimidate or interfere<br />

with a Crew Member in the performance<br />

of his/her duties aboard an aircraft. Crew<br />

interference <strong>may</strong> result in a fi ne of up to<br />

$10,000, imprisonment or both for violating<br />

federal law.<br />

Beverages<br />

Only alcoholic beverages provided by<br />

AirTran Airways, and served by our Flight<br />

Attendants, <strong>may</strong> be consumed aboard<br />

this flight. In accordance with federal law,<br />

we serve alcohol only to passengers who<br />

are 21 years of age or older, and cannot<br />

serve alcohol to anyone who appears to<br />

be intoxicated. All food and beverages<br />

furnished by AirTran Airways must be<br />

collected prior to takeoff and landing.<br />

According to the surgeon general,<br />

women should not drink alcoholic<br />

beverages during pregnancy because<br />

of the risk of birth defects.<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 108<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

Electronic Devices<br />

We ask your cooperation in turning off and<br />

stowing all portable electronic devices when<br />

directed to do so by a Flight Attendant. We<br />

ask that you discontinue use of your cellular<br />

phone, pager and personal digital assistant<br />

(PDA) with transmitting devices once the<br />

forward cabin door is closed. All portable<br />

electronic devices must remain off during<br />

taxi, takeoff and landing. We must ask that<br />

you never use the following during fl ight:<br />

cellular phones, two-way pagers, radios<br />

(AM/FM, VHF or satellite), TV sets, remotecontrolled<br />

games or toys, cordless computer<br />

mice, GPS, and commercial television<br />

cameras. These devices emit signals that <strong>may</strong><br />

interfere with the aircraft’s communication<br />

and navigation systems, triggering a warning<br />

and creating possible inconvenience for all<br />

passengers. Suitable devices such as laptop<br />

computers, audiotape and CD players,<br />

e-reader devices, mp3 players, smart phones,<br />

Bluetooth devices, tablet devices, handheld<br />

electronic games, shavers, cameras and<br />

calculators <strong>may</strong> be used when directed by a<br />

Crew Member.<br />

Hazardous Materials<br />

Many common items used every day in the<br />

home or workplace <strong>may</strong> seem harmless,<br />

but, when transported by air, can be very<br />

dangerous. In fl ight, variations in temperature<br />

and pressure can cause items to leak,<br />

generate toxic fumes or start a fi re. For this<br />

reason, hazardous materials are prohibited<br />

in luggage or from being carried on board,<br />

and federal law requires you to declare them.<br />

Violators <strong>may</strong> be subject to a civil penalty<br />

of up to $25,000 for each violation and, in<br />

appropriate cases, a criminal penalty of up<br />

to $500,000 and/or imprisonment of up to<br />

fi ve (5) years. Certain exceptions for personal<br />

care, medical needs, sporting equipment<br />

and items to support physically challenged<br />

passengers are acceptable. If you are unsure<br />

whether the item you wish to pack in your<br />

luggage or ship by air is hazardous, pick up<br />

a brochure located at the ticket counter,<br />

contact your airline representative or visit<br />

our website.


CUSTOMS / IMMIGRATION<br />

Customs and Immigration forms will be distributed by fl ight attendants during your fl ight. Prior to landing, complete all forms pertaining to you.<br />

Below are tips to help fi ll out the forms. You will be presenting your completed forms immediately upon entering the International Arrivals building.<br />

U.S. Customs Declaration<br />

Who must complete this form:<br />

• All passengers (or one passenger per family with<br />

the same address) bound for the US.<br />

How to complete this form:<br />

• Before arrival in the U.S.<br />

• Write in English, in capital letters.<br />

• Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state<br />

of your address in the U.S.<br />

• If you are transiting through the U.S., you <strong>may</strong> write TRANSIT and<br />

your fi nal destination country.<br />

• Line 5 and 6 <strong>may</strong> be left blank if not using a passport.<br />

• Line 9, enter FL for AirTran followed by your specifi c fl ight number.<br />

• Please read both sides of the declaration.<br />

• Sign at the “X”.<br />

Mexican Multiple Immigration Form<br />

Who must complete this form:<br />

• All travelers (including children), on fl ights bound for Mexico.<br />

How to complete this form:<br />

• Complete sections 1 through 14 on the left portion of the form and<br />

sections 1 through 8 on the right portion of the form.<br />

• Once completed, sign and date the left portion of the form.<br />

• The back side of the form is for offi cial use by Mexican Customs<br />

offi cials and should not be fi lled out by customers.<br />

What to do with this form:<br />

• The form will be separated as customers proceed through<br />

Mexican Customs.<br />

• Make sure to retain the right portion of the form.<br />

U.S. Customs Declaration U.S. I-94 Arrival/<br />

Departure Record<br />

Mexican Multiple Immigration Form<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 109<br />

U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record<br />

Who must complete this form:<br />

• All travelers who are using a Visa to enter the U.S. (one per<br />

person, including infants).<br />

How to complete this form:<br />

• Write in English, in capital letters.<br />

• Complete both Arrival and Departure portions.<br />

• Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your<br />

address in the U.S.<br />

• If you are transiting through the U.S., you <strong>may</strong> write TRANSIT<br />

and your fi nal destination country.<br />

• Do not write on the back.<br />

What to do with this form:<br />

• The Customs and Border Protection offi cer will place the I-94<br />

Departure Record in your passport after inspection.<br />

• Keep the lower portion (Departure Record) with your passport<br />

in order to exit the U.S.<br />

• Make sure you return the Departure Record to the airline representative<br />

before boarding your return fl ight.<br />

Mexican Customs Declaration Form<br />

Who must complete this form:<br />

• All passengers (or one passenger per family with the same address)<br />

on fl ights bound for Mexico.<br />

How to complete this form:<br />

• Complete sections 1 through 6 of the form.<br />

• Once completed, sign and date the form.<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

Servicio de<br />

Administración Tributaria<br />

Customs Declaration for travelers arriving from abroad<br />

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information.<br />

Please read the instructions on the back of this form.<br />

1<br />

Family name (s):<br />

First (Given):<br />

Nationality :<br />

Birth date: Day Month Year<br />

2<br />

VISITORS:<br />

Number of days you will stay in Mexico:<br />

RESIDENTS:<br />

Number of days you stayed abroad:<br />

3<br />

Number of family members traveling with you :<br />

Number of pieces of luggage (suitcases, bundles, boxes) bringing<br />

with you:<br />

Missing or imported as cargo luggage (pieces)<br />

(see Notice 1 on the back of this form):<br />

4<br />

TRANSPORT<br />

Maritime Air Land<br />

Transport Identification Number:<br />

5<br />

The transportation of currency or monetary instruments is legal, however,<br />

failure to declare the total amount <strong>may</strong> lead to the seizure of currency or<br />

monetary instruments, and <strong>may</strong> subject you to civil and/or criminal<br />

prosecution.<br />

Are you carrying coin, currency, checks, travelers checks or any<br />

other monetary instrument that together exceed the amount of<br />

10,000 U.S. dollars or its domestic or foreign equivalent?<br />

No Yes<br />

If you responded “Yes”, declare the total amount in U.S.<br />

dollars and fulfill the back of this form.<br />

$:<br />

6<br />

DECLARE IF YOU ARE BRINGING<br />

Live animals; food products; plants; flowers or fruits; chemical,<br />

pharmaceutical or biological products of agricultural use;<br />

hazardous materials, substances or residuals.<br />

No Yes<br />

Weapons and / or ammunition.<br />

No Yes<br />

Professional equipment<br />

No Yes<br />

Samples<br />

No Yes<br />

Additional goods other than “Luggage and Exemptions”, subject<br />

to duties<br />

No Yes<br />

Introducing goods without the corresponding declaration, permissions and/or payment of<br />

applicable duties and taxes <strong>may</strong> subject you to civil penalties and/or criminal prosecution.<br />

I have read the information on the back of this form and have made a<br />

truthful and accurate declaration.<br />

Signature<br />

WELCOME TO MEXICO<br />

ADUANA MÉXICO<br />

Mexican Customs<br />

Declaration Form<br />

Date:<br />

Day Month Year


PUZZLE PAGES<br />

Sudoku<br />

BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN<br />

Fill in each 3x3 box as<br />

well as each column and<br />

row with the numbers<br />

1-9 without repeating<br />

a number.<br />

EASY<br />

2<br />

1<br />

5<br />

3 4<br />

DIFFICULT<br />

8<br />

2<br />

5<br />

1<br />

3<br />

4<br />

8<br />

4<br />

6<br />

2<br />

5<br />

9<br />

1<br />

9<br />

2<br />

3<br />

1<br />

8<br />

2<br />

1<br />

4<br />

5<br />

3 1<br />

6 8 5<br />

6<br />

4<br />

8 7 3 6<br />

2 5 7<br />

9<br />

2 6<br />

7 9 1 5<br />

DIFFICULT<br />

5 8 4 3 1 6 2 7 9<br />

9 2 6 4 8 7 5 3 1<br />

3 7 1 2 5 9 4 6 8<br />

6 5 7 1 9 2 3 8 4<br />

1 9 8 7 3 4 6 5 2<br />

4 3 2 8 6 5 1 9 7<br />

8 6 5 9 2 1 7 4 3<br />

7 1 9 5 4 3 8 2 6<br />

2 4 3 6 7 8 9 1 5<br />

EASY<br />

NiagaraFallsStatePark.com<br />

MAY <strong>2012</strong> 110<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

PUZZLE ANSWERS<br />

Flip the page around<br />

to find out the answers<br />

to this month’s sudoku<br />

and crossword.<br />

4 6 5 2 8 1 3 9 7<br />

9 2 3 4 6 7 5 8 1<br />

7 8 1 9 3 5 6 2 4<br />

8 5 4 7 2 3 1 6 9<br />

2 3 9 1 5 6 7 4 8<br />

6 1 7 8 4 9 2 3 5<br />

5 9 6 3 1 4 8 7 2<br />

3 4 8 5 7 2 9 1 6<br />

1 7 2 6 9 8 4 5 3<br />

CROSSWORD<br />

PEOPLE TEND TO REMEMBER EVERY MINUTE OF<br />

70,000 GALLONS PER SECOND.


Visit www.pnf.com for locations and directions<br />

NEW FREE EXHIBIT OPENING JUNE <strong>2012</strong><br />

Come explore and experience<br />

Frank Lloyd Wright’s Prairie-Style<br />

designs in a new exhibit at the<br />

historic Wright-designed SC Johnson<br />

campus in Racine, WI.<br />

Free tours available with a reservation.<br />

For information call 262-260-2154<br />

or visit, www.scjohnson.com/visit<br />

Exhibition organized<br />

by S.C. Johnson and Son, Inc.<br />

in cooperation with the<br />

Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation,<br />

Scottsdale, AZ.<br />

220<br />

*Parking rate only available with coupon. Rates are subject to all<br />

applicable fees and taxes. May not be used with any other promotion,<br />

discount, corporate, online or phone reservation rate. Limit one<br />

coupon per stay. Must be presented to cashier upon exiting, not valid<br />

when departing through EzXit. Valid at participating Park ‘N Fly<br />

locations including ATL Park ‘N Fly Plus, ATL Park ‘N Go, and LAX<br />

Park ‘N Fly @ Park One. Not valid at Park ’N Fly Network locations.<br />

Expires December 31, <strong>2012</strong>.


PUZZLE PAGES<br />

In the Wallet<br />

BY GREG BRUCE<br />

ACROSS<br />

1 Big name in plastic?<br />

5 Chicken piece<br />

10 Chicago player<br />

13 Jeopardy<br />

14 AM/FM device<br />

15 Flatter, in a way<br />

16 Slip away<br />

17 Skyward<br />

18 Bit of gossip<br />

20 Leather worker<br />

21 An electrifying Chevy<br />

22 Cover, in a way<br />

23 Prohibition ___<br />

24 Definite article<br />

26 Crate<br />

28 Back street<br />

31 Game for young<br />

matchmakers<br />

34 Before, before<br />

35 Stud site<br />

37 Cheers regular<br />

38 Offer to a crier<br />

41 Taxing event?<br />

43 Pen part<br />

46 Kind of reaction<br />

49 Ballpark figure<br />

51 Thickness<br />

52 Early time<br />

54 Go by, as time<br />

55 Cast Away setting<br />

56 Racetrack stats<br />

57 Depression<br />

60 Someone who eats a lot<br />

62 “Poly” follower<br />

66 Pastoral staff<br />

68 Traffic stopper<br />

70 Stable diet?<br />

71 Sitting in a cask, say<br />

72 From the same tree?<br />

75 Lock horns with<br />

78 Information unit<br />

79 Chilled<br />

80 Dirty look<br />

81 Stan who created<br />

Spider-Man<br />

82 Part filler<br />

83 Big picture<br />

84 Be off base<br />

85 Pint-size<br />

86 Green card, in brief<br />

DOWN<br />

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MAY <strong>2012</strong> 112<br />

GO MAGAZINE<br />

Need a clue?<br />

Or do you<br />

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Turn to page<br />

110.<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

4 Argus-eyed<br />

5 See the world<br />

6 Symbol of goodness<br />

7 One on a pedestal<br />

8 Easy gifts<br />

9 All the rage<br />

10 ___ terrier<br />

11 Comprehension<br />

12 Cell-phone ancestor<br />

13 Necklace item<br />

19 Plain and simple<br />

20 Wonderland drink<br />

22 Clinker<br />

25 Row producer<br />

27 Like some editions<br />

29 It <strong>may</strong> follow something<br />

30 Not mine<br />

32 Some trial evidence<br />

33 Pout<br />

36 Charm with flattery<br />

38 Water source<br />

39 Not in the pink<br />

40 Foxy<br />

42 Piñata mark<br />

43 Forty winks<br />

44 “___ a deal!”<br />

45 Spell-off<br />

47 Car owners need<br />

48 Kind of film<br />

50 Come together<br />

53 Stroke<br />

56 It’s next to nothing<br />

57 Healing sign<br />

58 Like some socks<br />

59 Thyroid problem<br />

60 Band booking<br />

61 Cantankerous<br />

63 Where the heart is<br />

64 Stand for a portrait<br />

65 Ham holder<br />

67 Curl one’s lip<br />

69 Firm belief<br />

73 Toy that goes to<br />

great heights<br />

74 Computer image<br />

76 Pudding fruit<br />

77 Scale down<br />

79 Granola morsel


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MAY <strong>2012</strong> 114<br />

IN 1492 Christopher Columbus landed in the Dominican<br />

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