“Kenzo’s very first revolution was that fashion could be fun” 62 METROPOLITAN
e used to create an original yet familiar vision. We also have in common an idea of fashion which is not an abstract concept, but about narrative, something everyone can understand and can be free to integrate into their own world. We propose a vision, not a dress code. Nous partageons la notion de nomadisme culturel et l’intérêt pour la beauté hors du commun. Le folklore, ce ne sont pas seulement les costumes, mais l’inspiration d’une vision qui peut être originale et pourtant familière. Pour nous, la mode est une narration plutôt qu’un concept abstrait. Accessible à tous, libre à chacun de l’intégrer dans son propre univers. Nous proposons une vision, pas un code vestimentaire. Kenzo Takada brought many infl uences from his native Japan. What of your Sardinian heritage have you introduced to the brand? Kenzo Takada s’est largement inspiré de son Japon natal. Quels aspects de votre culture sarde avez-vous injecté dans la maison ? I think my roots inform my fashion indirectly. Sardinia is the place I go back to after meetings or travelling around the fashion capitals. I can fi nd peace to use all the ideas and inspirations I’ve picked up while away and make them mine. For this upcoming show, the 40th anniversary, I tried to mix motifs from Sardinia and Japan, imagining a meeting between the past and the present of the brand. C’est une infl uence indirecte. Je retourne en Sardaigne après chaque réunion ou séjour dans les capitales de la mode. J’y trouve la paix pour pouvoir m’approprier les idées et l’inspiration de mes voyages. Pour le prochain défi lé, qui marque le 40 e anniversaire de la maison, j’ai tenté d’allier les codes vestimentaires sardes et japonais, en imaginant une rencontre entre le passé et le présent de la marque. Gaiety and lightness of spirit have long been associated with the designs at Kenzo. Is this fun element important to you? Gaieté et légèreté d’esprit ont toujours été associées aux créations de Kenzo. Ce sens de l’humour est-il important ? It’s essential. That was Kenzo’s very fi rst revolution: that fashion could be fun; fashion is creativity and not a status symbol; fashion is freedom. Women can play and party wearing hydrid fashion outfi ts, mixing infl uences, fl owers and colours. It was a bold message about creativity and energy, global fashion and universal culture. Il est essentiel. C’est la première révolution de Kenzo : la mode peut être amusante et créative. Ce n’est pas un signe de statut social mais une liberté. Les femmes peuvent jouer et s’amuser avec des tenues métissées mélangeant les infl uences, les fl eurs et les couleurs. Le message est clair : créativité, énergie, mode mondialisée et culture universelle. What has inspired the autumn/ winter <strong>2010</strong> collection? Quelles sont les inspirations de vos collections automne/hiver <strong>2010</strong> ? The same as inspired Kenzo in the beginning: the mix. The house style is all about freedom. Firstly, freedom of movement, then freedom of ideas without limits. These ideas emerged in the 1970s, with the beginnings of the brand, then evolved freely. We’ve used a cut and silhouette that blends east and west, and references from all horizons. It’s this creative freedom that Kenzo taught us to love. The subtle contrasts continue in the colours. Bright colours mixed with grey tones appear in prints, in jacquard wools, in the plaid patterns and in the embroidery. I’ve worked with prints that multiply and blend to create patchworks. The patterns mix and separate and take different forms. I’ve used all the Kenzo trademarks: fl owers, mixtures of fabrics, prints. The contrasts in the fabrics and the patterns create recognisable, iconic silhouettes. It’s my way of paying homage to the Kenzo hallmarks of exoticism and liberty . Le mélange est ce qui a inspiré Kenzo dès ses débuts. Un style libéré. La liberté de mouvement, Opposite: The Boat S/S 2006. Above: Hans Feurer A/W 1977; Tango 2007/08; Alice in Wonderland S/S 2009 Page de g : The Boat P/E 2006. Cidessus : Hans Feurer A/H 1977 ; Tango 2007-2008 ; collection Alice In Wonderland P/E 2009 METROPOLITAN 63
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