la conversation antonio marras Kenzo’s artistic director discusses its origins, diversity and inspirations as the company celebrates 40 years Le directeur artistique de Kenzo évoque ses origines, sa différence et ses influences alors que la marque célèbre ses 40 ans 60 METROPOLITAN
Can you describe the journey that has brought you to Kenzo? Pouvez-vous décrire le parcours qui vous a mené chez Kenzo ? Great question. It was an unconscious journey. I never went to fashion school so my references come from the cinema or books. When I decided to design I didn’t know that much about Kenzo. But I’ve always been passionate about images and was familiar with the work of photographer Hans Feurer, which is absolutely amazing. Then I happened to use one of the most famous of Kenzo Takada’s shows, “Romania”, as an inspiration for one of my collections, dedicated to gipsy children. That was the fi rst time I looked closely at a Kenzo collection and found affi nities with my own work. But I couldn’t have imagined back then that one day I would be designing for Kenzo. J’aime cette question. C’est un cheminement inconscient. Je n’ai jamais étudié la mode. Je puise donc mon inspiration dans le cinéma et la littérature. Lorsque j’ai décidé de me lancer dans la création, je ne connaissais pas bien Kenzo. Mais j’étais passionné d’images et je connaissais les fabuleuses campagnes du photographe Hans Feurer. Lorsque je me suis inspiré de l’un des défi lés les plus célèbres de Kenzo Takada, la collection « Roumanie », pour l’une de mes collections consacrées aux enfants bohémiens, j’ai découvert les collections Kenzo et leurs points communs avec mon propre travail. Mais je n’aurais jamais imaginé créer un jour pour la marque. Kenzo Takada brought a unique vision of fashion to the world in 1970. What qualities did you most admire in his work? Le monde a découvert la vision unique de Kenzo Takada en 1970. Quelles sont les qualités de son travail que vous admirez le plus ? Imagine the young Kenzo in Paris at the end of the 1960s. He was an outsider, he could hardly speak — INSIDER FASHION — French, he knew no one, he was a foreigner and penniless. At the time fashion was a very closed place and very French. Couture shows were held in tiny salons in chic quarters for a very few – and boring – ladies of the bourgeoisie. All very conventional. The early Kenzo shows blew all this away and opened the way for other forms of fashion to be more creative. Kenzo sent a message to fashion that was revolutionary and new: creativity could be bold and still be wearable; fashion could be freedom and fun. His kimono-cut clothes, his exotic inspirations and the use of colours and prints showed how he wanted to break the couture rules at the end of the 1960s and launch a new conception of fashion that allowed freedom and poetry. How many fashion houses do you know who want to extend freedom? They are all imposing codes. Kenzo has a message of escape and liberty – that is the most important message I cherish. Imaginez le jeune Kenzo à Paris à la fi n des années 60. Étranger, il parlait à peine français, ne connaissait personne et était fauché. À l’époque, la mode était un milieu fermé et très francofrançais. Les défi lés de haute couture avaient lieu dans les petits salons de quartiers huppés pour une poignée de bourgeoises blasées. Très conventionnel. Les premiers défi lés Kenzo ont donné un grand coup de pied dans cette fourmilière et ont ouvert la voie à une mode plus créative. Kenzo a laissé une empreinte révolutionnaire et novatrice : une créativité audacieuse mais portable, une mode libre et divertissante. Ses coupes kimono, son inspiration exotique et l’utilisation des couleurs et des imprimés démontrent sa volonté de briser les règles de la haute couture de l’époque pour lancer une nouvelle conception de la mode, libre et poétique. Combien de maisons peuvent en dire autant ? Elles ne font qu’imposer des codes. Kenzo porte un message de rébellion et de liberté. C’est cet héritage que je chéris. When you joined, was it daunting to step into Kenzo Takada’s shoes? Lorsque vous avez pris la suite de Kenzo, la tâche ne vous a-t-elle pas paru incommensurable ? It might sound pretentious, but I never freaked out. It wasn’t a lack of modesty but the fact that all I could see were the wonderful things I could do. All this was so exciting that my fears became secondary. Cela peut paraître prétentieux, mais je n’ai pas paniqué. Pas par manque de modestie, mais parce que je ne voyais que les choses merveilleuses que je pourrais accomplir. C’était tellement grisant que mes craintes se sont évanouies. You have your own inspirations, but with which aspects of your predecessor’s vision do you share a strong affi nity? Vous avez vos propres inspirations mais quels thèmes ont-elles en commun avec la vision de votre prédécesseur ? We share a form of cultural nomadism, an interest in alternative beauty. Folklore is not just about costumes but inspiration that can Opposite: Alice in Wonderland S/S 2009. Left: Antonio Marras Page de gauche : Alice in Wonderland P/E 2009. Ci-contre : Antonio Marras METROPOLITAN 61
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