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Photograph: Packshot There aren’t many occasions when the side dishes get to take centre stage, but Christmas, oddly enough, is one of them. This is because turkey is the least interesting main course in existence. It is merely an excuse for white sauce, cranberry sauce, chipolatas, brussels sprouts, roasties and parsnips. A dinner consisting of so many different fl avours really is a treat, and if you love wine, then Christmas is the best day of the year, because you can drink whatever you like and select the food to match the wine rather than vice versa. A rich white rioja will make your turkey sing, something it never did in real life, while if you prefer reds, a luscious Bordeaux can warm you up while complementing those sausages, or a New World pinot noir can add elegance to the ultimate meat-and-two-veg repast. As for later, the choice is endless: viscous, treacly Spanish PX, lordly port, light, fl irtatious sweet Vouvray from the Loire, Australian “stickies”, brandy and other spirits. But I will be drinking Madeira, because its dried-fruit and burnt-toffee spiciness go so marvellously with Christmas pudding. And because it keeps well, once opened, so you won’t feel obliged to fi nish the bottle. Allende White Rioja 2007 A gloriously hazelnutty white Rioja with a spritz of lemon, aged in French oak. £18 Rioja blanc au goût de noisette, légèrement citronné, vieilli en fût de chêne français. 20,45 € (non dispo en France, mais livrable par The Wine Society [thewinesociety.com]) GLUG the drinks column À boire ce Noël... FOUR CHRISTMAS SPECIALS / QUATRE IDÉES POUR NOËL Château le Caillou 2000 A rich, deep, spicy Bordeaux, full of plump fruit, from Pomerol on the right bank of the Gironde river. £14.99 Un bordeaux riche, profond, épicé, gorgé de fruits mûrs, venu de Pomerol sur la rive droite de la Gironde. 28,75 € Nina Caplan on Christmas wines Noël a la particularité d’être de ces rares occasions où les accompagnements sont sur le devant de la scène. Y a-t-il en effet plat plus fade que la dinde ? Le volatile n’est que prétexte à sauce blanche ou aux airelles, aux saucisses, choux de Bruxelles, pommes rôties ou panais. Les amateurs de nouveautés culinaires, dont je suis, ne peuvent que se réjouir de ce feu d’artifi ces de saveurs. Et pour les amoureux du vin, Noël est le meilleur jour de l’année : n’est-ce pas le seul où l’on peut non seulement boire ce que l’on veut, mais aussi adapter les plats au vin plutôt que l’inverse ? Avec un riche rioja blanc, votre dinde chantera. Plutôt rouge ? Un succulent bordeaux vous réchauffera en relevant vos saucisses ; un pinot noir du nouveau monde apportera une touche d’élégance à la traditionnelle viande-deux garnitures. Pour la suite, le choix est infi ni : sirupeux pedro ximenez, porto majestueux, vouvray doux et mutin de la Loire, vin de dessert australien, cognac et autres spiritueux. Pour moi, je boirai du madère, dont les notes épicées de fruits secs et de caramel brûlé vont si bien avec le Christmas pudding. Sa bonne conservation ne vous obligera pas à fi nir le jour même. Wither Hills Pinot Noir 2008 Elegant, aromatic NZ pinot, part of a Majestic (majestic. co.uk) deal offering 20% off till the end of January. £9.99 Élégant pinot néozélandais parfumé, remise de 20 % chez Majestic (majestic. co.uk) sur tous les vins de NZ jusqu’à fi n janvier. 26,50 € For stockists and individual prices, go to wine-searcher.com / Pour les prix et adresses, rendez-vous sur wine-searcher.com Henriques & Henriques Ten-year-old Bual Madeira, awash with dried fruit, nuts and nutmeg – as Christmassy as you can get. £19.99 (50cl) Ce Madère Bual de 10 ans d’âge (50 cl) avec des notes de fruits secs, de noix et de muscade, est un vin de Noël par excellence. 24 € METROPOLITAN 47
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