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THREE PERFECT DAYS:<br />

SEOUL<br />

12 SPECTACULAR ADVENTURES<br />

( AND HOW TO MAKE THEM HAPPEN )<br />

IN THE WORKSHOP WITH SEGWAY<br />

MASTERMIND DEAN KAMEN<br />

BATTLING THE INVASIVE<br />

ASIAN CARP—WITH A FORK<br />

PLUS:<br />

RUFUS WAINWRIGHT,<br />

TOKYO STREET FASHION<br />

AND...BABIES?<br />

A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER


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© <strong>2010</strong> Marriott International, Inc.<br />

Earn up to 2 airline miles per U.S. dollar<br />

spent during your stay with Marriott.


PHOTOGRAPH BY FRÉDÉRIC BELGE<br />

May<br />

66 EXCELLENT ADVENTURES<br />

Warm weather is here, and<br />

with it comes the yearning to get<br />

out of town and fi nd new thrills.<br />

From whitewater rafting to volcanoclimbing,<br />

we’ve rounded up the best<br />

ways to do just that.<br />

Changdeokgung Palace<br />

76<br />

THE CREATOR<br />

Dean Kamen, inventor<br />

of the Segway, is back in the lab<br />

and working to inspire the next<br />

generation of innovators.<br />

BY KEVIN GRAY<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN SAELINGER<br />

UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM<br />

contents<br />

82<br />

THREE PERFECT DAYS: SEOUL<br />

North of the Han River lies<br />

a staid residential city; to the south, a<br />

modern, trendy destination.<br />

We sample the best of both worlds.<br />

BY LAYLA SCHLACK<br />

While still intensely traditional,<br />

Seoul’s modern incarnation is also,<br />

by turns, trendy and tech-savvy.<br />

3PD | P. 82<br />

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY


UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM<br />

8 Comments<br />

11 Voices Behind the scenes of<br />

United’s operations<br />

14 Connections Mobile check-in is<br />

easy and eco-friendly<br />

16 Wish You Were Here<br />

DISPATCHES<br />

19 Notes From All Over<br />

It’s raining fi sh in Australia;<br />

chocolate reaches new heights in<br />

Italy; Tokyo street fashion lands on<br />

the runway; a famed Los Angeles<br />

train is back on track; and Chicago<br />

foodies glimpse the future.<br />

DIRECTIONS<br />

25 News Where to stay, what to see,<br />

when to go.<br />

30 Whirlwind Five hours in Seattle<br />

33 Hero Bandleader Yoshio Toyama<br />

owes his career in jazz to the<br />

city of New Orleans. With the<br />

Wonderful World Jazz Foundation,<br />

he says thank you in a language<br />

everyone understands: music.<br />

By Sharon McDonnell<br />

35 Goods<br />

CULTURE<br />

38 Tech Vringo puts it all on the line<br />

with new ring tone technology.<br />

By Alyssa Giacobbe<br />

40 Wheels Porsche cruises into the<br />

sedan market. // By Mike Guy<br />

42 Whereabouts Photographer<br />

Thomas Struth enjoys Tokyo’s<br />

sights.<br />

45 Style London Mod mecca Carnaby<br />

Street celebrates its 50th birthday<br />

in style. // By Christine H. O’Toole<br />

46 Sound Rufus Wainwright keeps<br />

things simple on his latest album.<br />

By Alan Light<br />

48 Vision Filmmaker Thomas<br />

Balmes talks about his adorable<br />

documentary, Babies.<br />

By Adam K. Raymond<br />

COVER IMAGE<br />

Brecht Evens // www.magnetreps.com<br />

WRITE TO US:<br />

Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com<br />

HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE<br />

68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201<br />

SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES<br />

For a free subscription to our monthly<br />

eMag and to access recent issues, go to<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM<br />

53<br />

50 Print Marlene Van Niekerk’s latest<br />

book, Agaat, offers an unfl inching<br />

look at modern South Africa.<br />

By Aaron Gell<br />

53 Sports With a Zen approach to<br />

putting and driving, Thailand is fast<br />

becoming a top golf destination.<br />

By James A. Frank<br />

57 Food & Drink With Asian carp<br />

threatening to overtake the bayou,<br />

a Louisiana chef threatens to<br />

overtake the fi sh. Will diners care?<br />

By Ethan Brown<br />

61 Industry In times of economic<br />

turmoil, gold remains the, er, gold<br />

standard. // By Douglas Rushkoff<br />

65 Artifact A souvenir from the fi eld<br />

PLAY<br />

109 Movies, television and audio<br />

programming<br />

120 Route Maps and Terminal<br />

Diagrams<br />

132 Crossword and sudoku<br />

138 In Transit Who’s sitting next<br />

to you?<br />

139 Beverages & Food<br />

40


UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM<br />

8 Comments<br />

11 Voices Behind the scenes of<br />

United’s operations<br />

14 Connections Mobile check-in is<br />

easy and eco-friendly<br />

16 Wish You Were Here<br />

DISPATCHES<br />

19 Notes From All Over<br />

It’s raining fi sh in Australia;<br />

chocolate reaches new heights in<br />

Italy; Tokyo street fashion lands on<br />

the runway; a famed Los Angeles<br />

train is back on track; and Chicago<br />

foodies glimpse the future.<br />

DIRECTIONS<br />

25 News Where to stay, what to see,<br />

when to go.<br />

30 Whirlwind Five hours in Seattle<br />

33 Hero Bandleader Yoshio Toyama<br />

owes his career in jazz to the<br />

city of New Orleans. With the<br />

Wonderful World Jazz Foundation,<br />

he says thank you in a language<br />

everyone understands: music.<br />

By Sharon McDonnell<br />

35 Goods<br />

CULTURE<br />

38 Tech Vringo puts it all on the line<br />

with new ring tone technology.<br />

By Alyssa Giacobbe<br />

40 Wheels Porsche cruises into the<br />

sedan market. // By Mike Guy<br />

42 Whereabouts Photographer<br />

Thomas Struth enjoys Tokyo’s<br />

sights.<br />

45 Style London Mod mecca Carnaby<br />

Street celebrates its 50th birthday<br />

in style. // By Christine H. O’Toole<br />

46 Sound Rufus Wainwright keeps<br />

things simple on his latest album.<br />

By Alan Light<br />

48 Vision Filmmaker Thomas<br />

Balmes talks about his adorable<br />

documentary, Babies.<br />

By Adam K. Raymond<br />

COVER IMAGE<br />

Brecht Evens // www.magnetreps.com<br />

WRITE TO US:<br />

Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com<br />

HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE<br />

68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201<br />

SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES<br />

For a free subscription to our monthly<br />

eMag and to access recent issues, go to<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM<br />

53<br />

50 Print Marlene Van Niekerk’s latest<br />

book, Agaat, offers an unfl inching<br />

look at modern South Africa.<br />

By Aaron Gell<br />

53 Sports With a Zen approach to<br />

putting and driving, Thailand is fast<br />

becoming a top golf destination.<br />

By James A. Frank<br />

57 Food & Drink With Asian carp<br />

threatening to overtake the bayou,<br />

a Louisiana chef threatens to<br />

overtake the fi sh. Will diners care?<br />

By Ethan Brown<br />

61 Industry In times of economic<br />

turmoil, gold remains the, er, gold<br />

standard. // By Douglas Rushkoff<br />

65 Artifact A souvenir from the fi eld<br />

PLAY<br />

109 Movies, television and audio<br />

programming<br />

120 Route Maps and Terminal<br />

Diagrams<br />

132 Crossword and sudoku<br />

138 In Transit Who’s sitting next<br />

to you?<br />

139 Beverages & Food<br />

40


8<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

Hotels Take Manhattan<br />

comments<br />

Our March feature on the surprising boom underway in New York’s luxury<br />

hotel industry drew an enthusiastic response from several readers,<br />

including Bill Foley, a senior copywriter for McCullough Creative, an<br />

advertising agency located in Dubuque, Iowa. “When did that magazine<br />

beneath my tray table get so cool?” he writes. “I<br />

HEMISPHERES<br />

KEVIN GRAY<br />

Profi ling inventor<br />

Dean Kamen (“The<br />

Creator,” page 76), Gray<br />

says, inspired him to<br />

try to invent “a robot<br />

child who would love<br />

me unconditionally.”<br />

A contributor to<br />

Details, New York and<br />

Newsweek, Gray relaxes<br />

by playing music with<br />

friends. “My ultimate<br />

vacation is a recording<br />

studio in Brooklyn<br />

where I go to make<br />

believe I still rock.”<br />

loved reading about Ace, the Jane, the Standard<br />

and all the other hip new hotels that have been<br />

sprouting up in New York recently. Next time<br />

I’m in town, I’ll make a beeline for that loft<br />

in the Ace.” The hotel’s big selling point? The<br />

inclusion of an acoustic guitar in some rooms.<br />

“It’s quite a perk,” says Foley. Let’s hope the<br />

guests in the next room agree.<br />

Meanwhile, our feature on conceptual artist<br />

Gabriel Orozco brought plaudits from the art<br />

world. Olga Viso, director of the highly regarded<br />

Walker Art Center in Minneapolis, writes that she<br />

was “heartened to fi nd Aaron Gell’s well-written<br />

profi le of artist Gabriel Orozco [‘Crazy Tourist,’ December 2009] in the pages<br />

of Hemispheres. How great to have an in-depth piece on a conceptual artist<br />

reach a wider audience. Kudos to you and your staff for featuring this artist,<br />

whose work is both challenging and elusive. Mr. Gell thoughtfully captured<br />

Orozco’s ability to see everyday objects in a new way.”<br />

?<br />

A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER<br />

WHAT DO YOU THINK?<br />

WRITE TO US! Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com<br />

HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201<br />

Contributors<br />

THREE PERFECT DAYS: AUSTIN<br />

NEW YORK’S NEW LUXURY HOTEL BOOM<br />

(ONE LUCKY WRITER TRIES THEM ALL)<br />

STYLE SPECIAL<br />

CYNTHIA ROWLEY, ROBERTO CAVALLI<br />

AND LONDON’S<br />

TOP FASHION SCHOOL<br />

PLUS:<br />

ROCKER KEITH RICHARDS<br />

BREAKING BAD’S BRYAN CRANSTON ,<br />

AND A VISIT TO THE<br />

CONSUMER ELECTRONICS SHOW<br />

R2.HEM_0310_Cover..indd 1 10/02/<strong>2010</strong> 19:05<br />

YUI NATSUYAGI<br />

The photographer<br />

of this month’s Hero<br />

(“Instruments of<br />

Change,” page 33) is<br />

at work on a project<br />

detailing her culture<br />

shock on moving back<br />

to Japan after 20 years<br />

in the U.S. “After being<br />

away for such a long<br />

time,” the Puffi n Grant<br />

recipient says, “I am<br />

looking at everything<br />

through my ‘foreign’<br />

eyes, fascinated and<br />

shocked.”<br />

ALAN LIGHT<br />

The former editor<br />

in chief of Vibe and<br />

Spin magazines is<br />

currently the director<br />

of programming for<br />

Live from the Artists<br />

Den, a public television<br />

concert series. While<br />

Light is a huge fan<br />

of crooner Rufus<br />

Wainwright, whom he<br />

profi les on page 46, he<br />

says, “my favorite song<br />

is whatever my sevenyear-old<br />

son is playing<br />

on his guitar.”<br />

HEMISPHERES<br />

EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell<br />

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy<br />

SENIOR EDITORS Adam K. Raymond,<br />

Layla Schlack<br />

ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt<br />

DESIGNER Ellie Clayman<br />

PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta<br />

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />

Jane Black, Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe<br />

Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine,<br />

Grant Stoddard, Matthew Thompson<br />

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />

Claire Benoist, Spencer Heyfron,<br />

John Lawton, Graham Roumieu<br />

EDITORIAL INTERNS Carren Jao, Calvin Men<br />

PHOTO INTERN Winston Woo<br />

EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />

Michael Keating<br />

U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones<br />

INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street,<br />

Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201<br />

TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 917-591-6247<br />

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INK PUBLISHING<br />

CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke<br />

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PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie<br />

HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing.<br />

All material is strictly copyright and all rights<br />

are reserved. No part of this publication <strong>may</strong> be<br />

reproduced in whole or part without the prior<br />

written permission of the copyright holder. All<br />

prices and data are correct at the time of publication.<br />

Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are<br />

not necessarily those of the Publisher or United<br />

Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any<br />

responsibility for advertising content. Neither<br />

United, its subsidiaries nor affi liates guarantees<br />

the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or<br />

otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions<br />

or recommendations, gives investment advice, or<br />

advocates the purchase or sale of any security or<br />

investment. You should always seek the assistance<br />

of a professional for tax and investment advice.<br />

Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any<br />

mention of United Airlines or the use of United<br />

Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication<br />

does not imply endorsement of that company or<br />

its products or services by United Airlines.


PHOTOGRAPHS BY UNITED AIRLINES CREATIVE SERVICES<br />

Joanne Calabrese,<br />

middle, talks to<br />

airport operations<br />

supervisor O’Morris<br />

Adams, left, and<br />

customer service<br />

representative<br />

Agnes Umali-Felin<br />

about effi cient<br />

ways for individual<br />

departments to<br />

collaborate at<br />

San Francisco<br />

International<br />

Airport.<br />

IT TAKES A TEAM EFFORT to improve<br />

an airline’s performance. And<br />

United’s people from across many<br />

departments—from fl ight crews<br />

and ramp workers to maintenance<br />

personnel and gate agents—can all<br />

share credit for United’s ongoing<br />

success in the area of on-time arrivals.<br />

According to Joanne Calabrese, vice<br />

president of Airport Operations–<br />

Hubs, this success is a testament to<br />

several programs the company has<br />

put in place over the past few years to<br />

encourage each person to bear in mind<br />

how his or her own job relates to those<br />

of coworkers and contributes to the<br />

operation of the airline as a whole.<br />

“We’re at our best when we all<br />

support each other and work together<br />

as a team that is focused on the best<br />

interests of our customers as well as<br />

one another,” she says.<br />

Calabrese, born and raised in<br />

Manhattan and currently residing in<br />

Chicago’s northwest suburbs, knows<br />

a thing or two about the day-to-day<br />

jobs of those she works with. Her<br />

career with United began in 1969 as a<br />

reservations clerk, and over 40-plus<br />

years she’s served in departments<br />

ranging from customer service to<br />

baggage and onboard services. And<br />

now, as the executive responsible for<br />

United’s hubs in San Francisco, Los<br />

Angeles, Denver and Washington<br />

Dulles, as well as 10 surrounding<br />

airports, Calabrese puts that on-theground<br />

experience to good use as she<br />

searches for ways departments can<br />

improve effi ciency and performance.<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

voices<br />

True Mentor<br />

AFTER 40 YEARS AT UNITED, JOANNE CALABRESE, VICE PRESIDENT OF<br />

AIRPORT OPERATIONS–HUBS, IS ONE OF MANY IMPROVING THE AIRLINE’S PERFORMANCE<br />

THE BEST WAY SHE KNOWS HOW: BY EXAMPLE. // BY ROD O’CONNOR<br />

Along with some of her peers, she’s<br />

helping develop ways United’s various<br />

operating groups can work toward a<br />

common goal: successful departures.<br />

“What we continually ask ourselves<br />

is, what do we have to do to collectively<br />

get this fl ight out safely and on time?”<br />

she explains. “It’s really about setting<br />

up teams so we can get to the root<br />

cause of any issues and work together<br />

to improve the customer’s experience,”<br />

she says.<br />

A big part of the eff ort has been<br />

focused on common work practices.<br />

At United’s hub at Los Angeles<br />

International Airport (LAX),<br />

everyone—from managers and<br />

supervisors to front-line folks—<br />

charted out the 1,500 or so diff erent<br />

activities involved in a typical<br />

11


12<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

voices<br />

departure, everything from loading<br />

bags, mail and freight to boarding<br />

customers to maintenance checks.<br />

After mapping out a more effi cient<br />

way for individual departments to<br />

collaborate, the team also developed<br />

an issue resolution protocol to give<br />

every person a way to talk through any<br />

challenges related to their jobs.<br />

“Standard work has always guided<br />

our departures,” notes Calabrese.<br />

“What is new is focusing on how one’s<br />

individual work impacts other groups<br />

involved in getting our planes and<br />

customers out safely and on time.”<br />

While such improvements have<br />

certainly contributed to United’s<br />

performance gains, fundamental<br />

changes at its hubs have also had an<br />

enormous impact. Beginning last year,<br />

a new system was put in place that<br />

gives both “upstairs and downstairs”<br />

responsibilities to all managers.<br />

That means the concourse manager<br />

is charged not only with planeside<br />

ramp activities, but also customer<br />

service at the gate; and the terminal<br />

manager oversees customer service in<br />

the check-in area and baggage service,<br />

including the ramp bag room.<br />

“It’s a whole new way of doing<br />

business for us,” Calabrese says.<br />

“Looking at our performance to date,<br />

I think this new approach is the best<br />

thing we’ve ever done.”<br />

Additional training was provided to<br />

get everyone up to speed on their new<br />

roles—to ensure a smooth departure,<br />

yes, but also to keep people safe.<br />

In the airline industry, safety is<br />

always of utmost concern. But all of<br />

the activity that goes on around an<br />

aircraft during a standard takeoff<br />

and landing—for example, the lifting,<br />

pushing and rolling of heavy items—<br />

can also present occasions for strains<br />

and sprains.<br />

Each ramp worker loads an average<br />

of 180 bags, totaling almost 5,500<br />

pounds, every single day. To help<br />

minimize potential injuries, United<br />

launched the MoveSMART program.<br />

These training sessions focus on body<br />

mechanics principles—some derived<br />

from martial arts—to fi nd safer, more<br />

effi cient ways to lift bags or push carts.<br />

“Working safely is always at the top<br />

of everyone’s mind,” says Calabrese.<br />

“Whether our people are guiding an<br />

airplane or loading a bag, we have to<br />

remember this each and every day.”<br />

In addition to providing the proper<br />

training, United also believes in the<br />

“ Standard work has always guided our<br />

departures,” notes Joanne Calabrese. “What<br />

is new is focusing on how one’s individual<br />

work impacts other groups involved in getting<br />

customers out safely and on time.”<br />

Joanne Calabrese leads a discussion on how everyone at United<br />

contributes to running a safe, on-time operation.<br />

importance of showing appreciation<br />

for a job well done. At no time is this<br />

more important than the summer<br />

traveling season in the northern<br />

hemisphere. Just as the company<br />

does during all high-volume periods,<br />

Calabrese and other company<br />

leaders will meet with people on<br />

the concourses to thank them and<br />

sometimes to provide snacks or<br />

beverages during long, hot, busy days.<br />

For senior executives like Calabrese,<br />

meeting with those she works<br />

with also off ers opportunities for<br />

mentorship. During her ongoing visits<br />

to United hubs and their surrounding<br />

metro airports, she sits down with<br />

each respective general manager and<br />

division head to track performance<br />

across multiple criteria. But she’s<br />

always on the lookout for ways to<br />

foster leadership among all employees.<br />

It’s a role Calabrese relishes, and is<br />

uniquely qualifi ed to perform. Because<br />

after 40 years experience working<br />

her way up the corporate ladder—at a<br />

time when female executives were not<br />

very common in many industries—she<br />

understands how to empower people<br />

to do their best work.<br />

“I started out here as a clerk,”<br />

Calabrese says. “So when I go into the<br />

fi eld, I get it. I’ve been there, done that,<br />

got all the T-shirts,” she adds with a<br />

laugh. “I understand what our people<br />

go through. And I tell this to folks<br />

throughout the organization: ‘You can<br />

be anything you want to be. If you want<br />

a leadership role, it’s open to you.’<br />

“That experience has helped me<br />

tremendously in relating to our teams<br />

and understanding what we’re all<br />

trying to accomplish. When we have a<br />

successful fl ight, I know what it takes<br />

to make that happen.”


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MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

14 connections<br />

Boarding Goes Green<br />

MOBILE CHECK-IN AND PAPERLESS BOARDING MAKE IT EASIER TO GET WHERE YOU’RE GOING.<br />

IF THERE’S AN IPHONE, BlackBerry or any other mobile device with internet access sitting in<br />

your carry-on bag right now, we have just the thing to ease your travel experience.<br />

Whether you’re rushing to the airport from a conference or debating what to pack<br />

for your vacation, we understand you’re constantly on the go. So to keep you from<br />

needing to slow down to print a boarding pass, we have launched mobile check-in for<br />

all domestic United- and United Express–operated itineraries, giving you the ability<br />

to check in for fl ights from any device that is web-enabled. This includes cell phones,<br />

personal digital assistants, e-book readers and tablets. In addition to checking in, you<br />

can view fl ight status, check fl ight availability and fi nd Red Carpet Club locations.<br />

We have also launched “paperless” mobile boarding capabilities at more than a<br />

dozen airports and expect to have the service in 30 airports by this summer. You can<br />

have your boarding pass sent directly to your mobile device via email, enabling you to<br />

breeze through the security checkpoint and the boarding gate with only your mobile<br />

device in hand.<br />

We know that being on the go can be stressful and hope these enhancements make<br />

your travel experience more enjoyable.<br />

To use mobile check-in, please visit our new mobile web site: mobile.united.com.<br />

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customer uses<br />

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board a plane.<br />

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Beginning June 20,<br />

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Flights to and from<br />

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16<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

wish you were here


CASTLE ON A CLOUD // A Moorish ruin<br />

overlooks a village in Granada.<br />

MONTEFRÍO, SPAIN // PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID CICCONI


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LAJAMANU, AUSTRALIA<br />

Cloudy with a<br />

Chance of Fish<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

dispatches<br />

NOTES FROM ALL OVER<br />

THE RED DIRT ROAD that leads into Lajamanu is<br />

usually traveled by Warlpiri Aboriginal villagers<br />

and the wild horses that roam the nearby grasslands.<br />

SPRING STORMS RAIN PERCH<br />

Located on the edge of the Tanami Desert in<br />

ON THE DUSTY OUTBACK.<br />

Australia’s Northern Territory, this arid outback<br />

ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU<br />

town is more than 500 miles from the coast. Which<br />

made it all the more bewildering one afternoon in late<br />

February, when a heavy rainstorm opened up over<br />

Lajamanu and amid the raindrops came...thousands<br />

of tiny fi sh. Mostly young speckled perch—some<br />

frozen solid, others, remarkably, wriggling—they<br />

landed like heavy hail on porches and playing fi elds in bursts for two straight days. For weeks<br />

afterward, residents raked fi sh into garbage bags.<br />

“It’s unusual, but it’s not the fi rst time we’ve seen it rain fi sh,” says Mark Kersemakers,<br />

senior meteorologist at the Darwin Regional Forecasting Center. “We think that a waterspout<br />

or weak tornado sucks the fi sh up into the atmosphere and carries them into the tops of the<br />

clouds, basically freezing them in the process. The clouds drift south and dump the fi sh a long<br />

way from where the weather system originated.”<br />

Instances of fi sh rain have been reported over the years throughout northern Australia and<br />

also in Japan, Singapore and Rhode Island. Lajamanu alone has seen it happen three times in<br />

the past 30 years. According to Kersemakers, fi sh aren’t the half of it.<br />

“We’ve also had reports of little frogs being rained out during storms, which is even more<br />

strange,” he says. But the most bizarre incident of creatures raining from the heavens is a tossup:<br />

either an 1871 hailstorm in Bath, England, that brought a downpour of jellyfi sh or another<br />

in Jennings, Louisiana, in 2007, that rained tangles of worms. All of which might lead the 650<br />

or so residents of Lajumanu to count their blessings: At least it’s not raining sharks.<br />

—CHRISTINA COUCH<br />

19


20<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

AURONZO DI CADORE, ITALY<br />

SUGAR HIGH<br />

If there is a mecca for extreme<br />

chocolate, on this serene day in<br />

March it’s the tiny Italian town<br />

of Auronzo di Cadore. That’s<br />

because practically overnight,<br />

a 26-foot tower made entirely<br />

of chocolate has appeared<br />

near the town ice rink, as if the<br />

Oompa Loompas had staged<br />

an invasion.<br />

Ice skaters gaze at it as<br />

they arrive for their morning<br />

spin in the cold mountain<br />

air. Tourists gawk and<br />

snap pictures of the tower’s<br />

intricately carved exterior.<br />

The representative of the<br />

Guinness Book of World<br />

Records has come and<br />

gone, leaving a certifi cate<br />

confi rming this is offi cially<br />

the highest freestanding<br />

structure made entirely of<br />

chocolate. Ever.<br />

The sugar castle was built<br />

by Mirco Della Vecchia, a<br />

master chocolatier famous<br />

for his world records in<br />

cacao. “I started working as<br />

a confectioner at thirteen,”<br />

says the mustachioed<br />

chocolate mastermind. “I<br />

knew immediately this<br />

would be my future.”<br />

For this eff ort, Della<br />

Vecchia took as his<br />

inspiration the famous St.<br />

Mark’s Campanile in Venice,<br />

dispatches<br />

which he wanted to duplicate<br />

in miniature. He then<br />

transported 10 tons of pure<br />

white chocolate all the way<br />

from Ecuador. The liquid was<br />

poured into a specially built<br />

mold 26 feet high and allowed<br />

to chill until it was solid. Then<br />

Della Vecchia and his team<br />

went to work, carving struts<br />

and windows to match the<br />

original, as shavings drifted<br />

to the ground. (Sadly for<br />

some, after the exposition,<br />

and lengthy exposure to the<br />

elements, it won’t be very<br />

appetizing.)<br />

Della Vecchia has struck<br />

here before. If you stroll<br />

over to city hall, you’ll fi nd<br />

his replica of the famous<br />

“Three Peaks” of the local<br />

Dolomite Mountains, the<br />

tops dusted with what<br />

appears to be sugar.<br />

It’s offi cially the heaviest<br />

cocoa-based sculpture ever<br />

created. And it’s kept locked<br />

behind thick glass.<br />

—STEPHAN TALTY<br />

YOKOHAMA, JAPAN<br />

East Meets<br />

Vest<br />

Inside an arena in Yokohama,<br />

the fashionistas are screaming<br />

for Nozomi Sasaki. A spotlight<br />

has just fallen on the doe-eyed<br />

Japanese model, who appears in<br />

a loose crochet shirt and cutoff<br />

denim shorts. Sasaki walks the<br />

runway, waving as techno music throbs. “Kawaii!” (“Cute!”)<br />

squeals 23-year-old Sae Hosaka, who is standing with a<br />

friend near the raised platform.<br />

The Tokyo Girls Collection, a biannual fashion show now<br />

in its fi fth year, has attracted 25,500 spectators, most of<br />

them teens and young women. Some have traveled for<br />

hours by train or overnight bus, despite the fact that there<br />

isn’t a single big-name designer represented. The outfi ts<br />

on display can generally be purchased for less than $250,<br />

and fun trumps pretense. As Cole Porter blares from the<br />

loudspeakers, the models blow kisses, dance and toss<br />

stuffed animals from the runway—a far cry from haute<br />

couture. Tickets for the eight-hour extravaganza, ranging<br />

from $55 to $80, sold out in hours. Recently, the Tokyo<br />

Girls Collection went on the road to Beijing and Paris. “But<br />

it’s the opposite of the Paris runway show,” says Fumitaro<br />

Ohama, head of the organizing committee, who also runs<br />

the fashion site Girlswalker.com.<br />

Around the venue, staffers carry gadgets that can<br />

transfer web links to a cell phone just by touching it,<br />

enabling attendees to purchase the items they’re viewing<br />

before the models have even left the stage. Within a day of<br />

the show last September, online sales of clothes and other<br />

items topped $600,000.<br />

But Ohama sees the event less as a fashion show than as<br />

a festival. The crowd screams when Japanese pop stars<br />

Miliyah Kato and Kumi Koda appear, and whoop for a model<br />

in a skimpy version of a fl ight attendant’s uniform, actually<br />

a paid ad for a travel agency. At booths near the entrance,<br />

reps hand out samples of gum, perfume and mascara, as<br />

well as cellphone straps with pink teddy bears covered in<br />

crystals. “The economy is still hurting,” says Ohama, “so why<br />

not try to brighten things up with a little fun?” —KENJI HALL


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22<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

CHICAGO<br />

FUTURE FOODS<br />

Homaro Cantu takes careful<br />

aim and fi res, hitting his<br />

target squarely. Then Ben<br />

Roche follows up with a<br />

fl amethrower. Finally, they<br />

administer the coup de<br />

grace—with a knife and fork.<br />

For Cantu and Roche, the chefs<br />

behind Chicago’s molecular<br />

gastronomy restaurant Moto<br />

fi ring a red pepper oil–fi lled<br />

paintball into a few innocent<br />

bratwursts and cooking them<br />

with a blowtorch is all in a<br />

day’s work.<br />

“We want to push the<br />

boundaries of what you<br />

can and cannot eat,” Cantu<br />

explains. “We’re trying to see<br />

if you can turn something<br />

inedible like a burned brat<br />

into something tasty.”<br />

Challenging culinary<br />

preconceptions is what<br />

LOS ANGELES<br />

Fallen Angel<br />

dispatches<br />

Cantu does best. Part<br />

cook, part mad scientist,<br />

he fuses haute cuisine<br />

with the principals of<br />

biochemistry to produce<br />

foods like carbonated fruit,<br />

laser-baked bread (with<br />

crusty insides and doughy<br />

outsides) and <strong>may</strong>onnaise<br />

created using high-pitched<br />

sound vibrations. Armed<br />

with class IV surgical laser,<br />

centrifuge, freeze dryer,<br />

lab-grade sonifi er and a<br />

Star Trek-like food replicator<br />

that prints snacks onto<br />

edible paper, he has an<br />

undisclosed number of<br />

patents under review.<br />

Now he’s focusing on an<br />

even bigger project: a new<br />

television series on Planet<br />

Green that will demonstrate<br />

how the foods of tomorrow,<br />

such as edible packaging<br />

peanuts and the so-called<br />

“miracle fruit,” a berry that<br />

prevents the taste buds<br />

from detecting sour or bitter<br />

notes, can solve some of<br />

the world’s most pressing<br />

environmental, hunger and<br />

nutrition issues.<br />

“Everything you see<br />

about food is negative,<br />

negative, negative. ‘Eat your<br />

vegetables; don’t eat red<br />

meat; seafood is bad because<br />

of overfi shing,’” Cantu says.<br />

“People aren’t going to<br />

change unless you give them<br />

something tastier. That’s<br />

where we come in.”<br />

Of course, whether<br />

items like faux seafood<br />

truly can be more appealing<br />

than its traditional<br />

counterpart remains to be<br />

seen. And tasted.<br />

“They can,” Cantu insists.<br />

“You just need a bunch of<br />

crazy people to prepare it.”<br />

— CHRISTINA COUCH<br />

The ride on Angels Flight, “the shortest railway in the world,” is so brief (it clocks in at<br />

under a minute) that someone stumbling across the crowd that forms early one spring<br />

morning at the bottom of Bunker Hill in downtown Los Angeles might rightly wonder what<br />

the big deal is. But these are train buffs, most of them, and they’re here to bear witness to<br />

the return of a beloved miniature rail line after nearly a decade-long absence.<br />

“It’s as beautiful as I remember it,” says native Angeleno John Wyatt, as he steps inside<br />

Olivet, one of two distinctive orange trams (the other is named Sinai). A bell sounds, and<br />

electric motors whir. Olivet climbs the 33-degree slope to the top of the hill. Applause erupts.<br />

Angels Flight fi rst opened in 1901, and though the distance covered is only 315 feet, in the line’s fi rst 50 years of<br />

operations the trams were said to have carried more passengers per mile than any other railway in the world—more<br />

than 100,000,000. The original version closed in 1969, when the neighborhood was demolished as part of a citywide<br />

replanning. It reopened to grateful passengers in 1996.<br />

“There was a crowd of us waiting then, too,” Wyatt adds.<br />

The most recent hiatus came after an accident in 2001,<br />

after which a group of dedicated preservationists raised<br />

$3.5 million for the renovation.<br />

Angels Flight has been featured in novels by John Fante<br />

and Raymond Chandler and was the inspiration for Michael<br />

Connelly’s 1999 mystery Angels Flight. It’s also (naturally) been<br />

a regular onscreen, from the 1920 silent fi lm All Jazzed Up and<br />

Dragnet to the video game Tony Hawk’s American Wasteland.<br />

“The only part of Bunker Hill that remains now is Angels<br />

Flight,” says John Welborne, president of the Angels Flight<br />

Railway Foundation. Best of all? It costs only 25 cents.<br />

—JAMES BARLETT


MOBILE BOARDING PASS<br />

SCAN AT SECURITY AND GATE<br />

Wireless check-in.<br />

Paperless boarding pass.<br />

Introducing United mobile check-in and boarding pass.<br />

Now you can check in on the go, and have your boarding pass sent directly to your<br />

phone for select itineraries. Just enter mobile.united.com into your browser to check in<br />

for your fl ight, and to get your mobile boarding pass, complete with instructions on<br />

how to use it at the airport. To learn more visit united.com/mobileservices.<br />

Mobile check-in is currently available for any United ®<br />

- or United Express ®<br />

-operated fl ight within the U.S.,<br />

Puerto Rico or the U.S. Virgin Islands. Mobile boarding passes are currently available for customers with seat<br />

assignments on fl ights departing select airports on United ®<br />

- and United Express ®<br />

-operated itineraries within the<br />

United States, the U.S. Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico. ©<strong>2010</strong> United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.


PHOTOGRAPH BY JAY REILLY/AURORA PHOTOS<br />

news<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

directions<br />

WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO<br />

Oregon Trails<br />

g<br />

More than 200 years ago, Lewis and Clark fl oated down the<br />

Columbia River. Now, LifeCycle Adventures leads you down<br />

the same path—by bike. Known for two-wheeled trips through<br />

California’s wine country, the company is expanding its offerings to<br />

the Columbia River and Willamette Valley. When you’re snapping<br />

photos of Mount Hood or sipping Oregon pinot, you’ll thank those<br />

explorers for putting the region on your radar. lifecycleadventures.com<br />

25


26<br />

GOLF<br />

SPOTLIGHT<br />

CASUAL TEE // The newly opened Corales Golf Course is one of those Caribbean<br />

gems challenging enough to force you to put down the mojito, take out the<br />

wedge, and execute a tight-lie chip shot. At the Punta Cana Resort on the eastern<br />

shores of the Dominican Republic, the Corales has craggy coves and stunning<br />

vistas, plus a shot over the Bay of Corales. Of course, the biggest challenge is<br />

keeping fresh ice in your drink. puntacana.com<br />

MAIL CALL // Madrid’s<br />

Muséo Nacional del<br />

Prado is winning over<br />

young audiences with<br />

“The Art of Power,”<br />

an exhibition on<br />

display until May 23<br />

featuring armor worn<br />

by Spanish monarchs.<br />

On loan from the<br />

Royal Armoury, these<br />

cuirasses, shields<br />

and helmets rarely<br />

see the light of day.<br />

museodelprado.es<br />

NORTHERN HOSPITALITY // Toronto’s booming<br />

fi lm industry draws plenty of Hollywood<br />

A-listers. Now they’ll feel right at home, as<br />

Thompson Hotels opens its fi rst non-U.S.<br />

location. Expect modern rooms, a roof deck with<br />

poolside cabanas and a fi replace lounge. Guests<br />

can stretch out in an on-site yoga studio and<br />

dine at Scarpetta, featuring cuisine by James<br />

Beard–winning chef Scott Conant. Welcome to<br />

the north, Thompson. thompsonhotels.com<br />

DO THE WAVE // What’s more idyllic than<br />

a Victorian mansion overlooking the sea? A<br />

Victorian mansion overlooking the sea after a<br />

$140 million restoration. The Ocean House in<br />

Rhode Island kicks off its new look with a designer<br />

show house for charity. During the rest of the<br />

year, relax in a cottage at one of New England’s<br />

classic beach retreats. oceanhouseri.com<br />

CALENDAR<br />

MAY<br />

7-10<br />

LONDON // At the ecologically<br />

inclined Real Food Festival,<br />

learn about where your food<br />

comes from now and how<br />

it will be produced in the<br />

future. realfoodfestival.co.uk<br />

7-16<br />

VANCOUVER // Get just the<br />

facts, ma’am, at the DOXA<br />

Documentary Film Festival.<br />

doxafestival.ca<br />

9-10<br />

BRUSSELS // Each year on Iris<br />

Day, the Belgian capital is in<br />

bloom with a massive street<br />

party, complete with free<br />

concerts. fetedeliris.be<br />

15-18<br />

NEW YORK // Grab a seat—or a<br />

table, armoire or desk—at the<br />

22nd annual International<br />

Contemporary Furniture Fair.<br />

icff.com<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF PUNTA CANA RESORT, COURTESY OF REAL FOOD FESTIVAL, COURTESY OF ICFF, COURTESY OF OCEAN HOUSE,<br />

COURTESY OF THOMPSON HOTELS, COURTESY OF MUSEO DEL PRADO


HHERE’S<br />

A PLACE WHERE THE GREAT OUTDOORS IS EXTRAORDINARILY GREAT.<br />

WHERE A LITTLE PEACE AND QUIET IS ANYTHING BUT LITTLE.<br />

WHERE YOUR PERSONAL MILLION-STAR RESORT AWAITS.<br />

EXPLORE THIS GLORIOUS PLACE.<br />

PLAN YOUR SUMMER VACATION TODAY AT COLORADO.COM.


28<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

news<br />

MERLIN’S BEARD! //<br />

Quidditch, anyone?<br />

Take the family to<br />

Universal Orlando’s<br />

new feature, “The<br />

Wizarding World<br />

of Harry Potter.” To<br />

celebrate its opening,<br />

the park’s resorts<br />

are offering a deal<br />

even Muggles will<br />

appreciate: four<br />

nights’ stay at Loews<br />

Portofi no Bay, Hard<br />

Rock Hotel or Loews<br />

Royal Pacifi c; three<br />

days’ admission to<br />

Universal Studios and<br />

Island of Adventure;<br />

an express pass;<br />

and, of course, early<br />

access to the Harry<br />

Potter attraction.<br />

The deal starts May<br />

28 and costs $1,548<br />

for a family of four.<br />

universalorlando.com<br />

HOTEL<br />

SPOTLIGHT<br />

A TOUCH OF CLASS // The Glenmere Mansion picks<br />

up where the country manors of old money<br />

Vanderbilts and Rockefellers left off. The former<br />

weekend home of a turn-of-the-century New<br />

York socialite, this classic 18-suite playpen—<br />

recently featured in Architectural Digest—has<br />

been lovingly rebuilt and impeccably decorated<br />

with statuary hailing from Spain and China and<br />

includes gardens, a spa, a pool and stunning<br />

views of the Catskills. Don’t forget your dinner<br />

jacket. glenmeremansion.com<br />

MARKET REPORT<br />

Chicago’s Randolph Street Market kicks<br />

off its seventh season this month. It<br />

consists of the Chicago Antique, Fancy<br />

Foods and Indie Designer emporia, plus<br />

the Vinyl Swap Meet and Global Goods<br />

Bazaar. To start the season, the antique<br />

market will offer a free appraisal, so bring<br />

a tchotchke and cash it in for new duds<br />

or a gourmet snack. randolphstreetmarket.com<br />

CALENDAR<br />

MAY<br />

16-23<br />

CALIFORNIA // Billed as the<br />

American Tour de France, the<br />

750-mile Amgen Tour takes<br />

place in phases from Nevada<br />

City to Bakersfi eld. Catch<br />

Lance Armstrong pedaling<br />

along—that is, if you can.<br />

amgentourofcalifornia.com<br />

19-23<br />

NANTUCKET, MASSACHUSETTS //<br />

Sip bubbly by the beach at the<br />

prestigious Nantucket Wine<br />

Festival, which is celebrating<br />

the 200th anniversary<br />

of Veuve Clicquot’s fi rst<br />

vintage champagne.<br />

nantucketwinefestival.com<br />

JUNE 1-27<br />

AMSTERDAM // During the<br />

Holland Festival, celebrate<br />

music, art, dance and theater<br />

with an avant-garde slant<br />

at venues around the city.<br />

hollandfestival.nl<br />

2-6<br />

BUDAPEST // Hoof it to the<br />

National Gallop, a celebration<br />

of historic equestrian arts<br />

that includes races and battle<br />

reenactments. vagta.hu<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF SARGENT <strong>2010</strong>, COURTESY OF NANTUCKET WINE FESTIVAL, BY FERENC ISZA/AFP/GETTY IMAGES,<br />

COURTESY OF NICOLE RADJA, COURTESY OF UNIVERSAL ORLANDO RESORT.


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30<br />

Kick things off in Pioneer Square (pioneersquaredistrict.org), a historic district that was rebuilt<br />

after the Great Fire of 1889 and is now colonized by artists. Nod and murmur to yourself<br />

knowingly as you pop into a few of the local art galleries. Newly purchased prints in hand, hitch<br />

a ride north on any of the free buses (until 7 p.m.). ( :40 )<br />

Come as you are to The Showbox at the Market (1426 First Ave.; showboxonline.com). Time it right<br />

and you’ll be able to catch an opening band at the popular 71-year-old Art Deco venue, which has<br />

hosted musicians such as Dizzy Gillespie, Muddy Waters, Iggy Pop and Pearl Jam. ( 1:10 )<br />

Cut through Lower Post Alley and past its famous gum-covered wall to arrive at Pike Place<br />

Market. Dodge the fl ying salmon (the fi shmongers here are known for their airborne seafood),<br />

and buy yourself some smoked fi lets. Let the street buskers serenade you while you wash down<br />

the lox with a venti, nonfat, triple-pump caramel macchiato (just like Mom used to make!) from<br />

the original Starbucks (1912 Pike Pl.; starbucks.com). ( 1:55 )<br />

Head east to Capitol Hill, home to young professionals, creative types and the recently relocated<br />

Elliott Bay Book Company (1521 10th Ave.; elliottbaybook.com), a massive indie bookstore. Pick<br />

up former local Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air and weigh the risks of summiting Mount Rainier over<br />

a pint of Trappist ale at Quinn’s Pub (1001 E. Pike St.; quinnspubseattle.com). ( 2:40 )<br />

Before you go back downtown, duck into Velouria (1521 Melrose Ave.; shopvelouria.tripod.com),<br />

a boutique featuring products by local artisans, to pick up the crème de la crème of rain gear: the<br />

ever-youthful and design-happy Pare*Umbrella. You know, just in case. ( 3:00 )<br />

Hungry? Stop into chef Tom Douglas’ James Beard–nominated Palace Kitchen (2030 Fifth Ave.;<br />

tomdouglas.com) for his melted, creamy (and dreamy) goat cheese and lavender fondue, or track<br />

down the Skillet Airstream trailer for truckside dining on seasonal local fare. Now, too full to<br />

walk, you’d best let the Seattle monorail do the moving for you. ( 3:40 )<br />

Pay tribute to Seattle music gods at the interactive Frank Gehry–designed Experience Music<br />

Project (325 5th Ave. N; empsfm.org). Read Jimi Hendrix’s journal, bend notes with a wah-wah<br />

pedal and take in the rock-heavy Northwest Passage exhibit, where grunge lives on. Pause for a<br />

Vulcan salute to the attached Science Fiction Museum—there’s only so much time. ( 4:20 )<br />

The wait is long, but the view from the 605-foot Space Needle (400 Broad St., spaceneedle.com)<br />

is well worth it. The 360-degree vista showcases the Olympic Mountains, Cascade Range and the<br />

Puget Sound—all of which deserve further exploration. ( 5:00 )<br />

BOARDING PASS<br />

Sit back, relax and<br />

enjoy a freshly<br />

brewed cup of<br />

Starbucks coffee as<br />

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the birthplace of the<br />

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We’re advancing the treatments in gynecology.<br />

Along with the confidence of the women who need them.<br />

Gynecology is a complex specialty. And that’s just how we treat it. As the<br />

largest National Institutes of Health funded obstetrics and gynecological<br />

department in the nation, Magee-Womens Hospital of UPMC is at the<br />

forefront of research in reproductive infectious disease, family planning,<br />

and fertility. Our scientists and doctors were part of the team that<br />

developed the HPV vaccine, a breakthrough in the prevention and<br />

treatment of cervical cancer. And we are one of the few hospitals in the<br />

country that utilizes intraperitoneal hyperthermic chemotherapy (IPHC)<br />

to treat ovarian cancer. Our forward thinking has made us a national<br />

leader in family planning, and we are proud to say that our extensive<br />

fellowships include urogynecology, minimally invasive surgery, and lower<br />

genital tract disease. Gynecological conditions affect women at all the<br />

stages of their lives. Our commitment is to ensure that the quality of<br />

their lives is all that it can be.<br />

Affiliated with the University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine,<br />

UPMC is ranked among the nation’s best hospitals by U.S.News & World Report.<br />

UPMC.com | 1-800-533-UPMC


We do more than practice<br />

gynecology and obstetrics.<br />

We advance it.<br />

Yale-New Haven Hospital is the primary teaching hospital of<br />

Yale School of Medicine and is ranked among the nation’s<br />

best hospitals by U.S.News & World Report.<br />

Women’s health is more than a science.<br />

It’s also a profoundly personal issue. At<br />

Yale-New Haven Hospital, we offer today’s<br />

most advanced medical treatments along<br />

with the specialists who pioneered them in<br />

an environment that’s as compassionate as<br />

it is state-of-the-art. Our ob-gyn physicians<br />

and scientists invented fetal heart monitoring<br />

and pioneered fetal echocardiography as well<br />

as introduced the first in vitro fertilization<br />

program in the Northeast. They also introduced<br />

key chemotherapy drugs in the fight against<br />

gynecological cancers. They’re the reason<br />

we are considered a national leader in the<br />

advancement of clinical research and treatment.


dispatches<br />

Instruments<br />

of Change<br />

YOSHIO TOYAMA HELPS KIDS IN NEW<br />

ORLEANS TOOT THEIR OWN HORNS.<br />

BY SHARON MCDONNELL<br />

PHOTOGRAPH BY YUI NATSUYAGI<br />

hero<br />

NAME • YOSHIO TOYAMA, 66<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

MISSION • Donating musical instruments to schools and aid groups<br />

in New Orleans through Wonderful World Jazz Foundation, an<br />

organization founded by Toyama and his wife, Keiko. At age 14,<br />

Toyama started playing trumpet and fell in love with Louis Armstrong’s<br />

music, which inspired him to delve deeper into the culture of Armstrong’s hometown. “It was a shock to learn that<br />

schools in the birthplace of jazz had very poor musical instruments,” Toyama says. “I was deeply moved to read in<br />

Armstrong’s autobiography that he came from the poorest slum. He was sent to a boys home, where he learned to<br />

play music. It changed his life.”<br />

MOTIVATION • “We want to remind people of Armstrong’s life and spread his music, love and spirit,” Toyama says.<br />

“After World War II, the U.S. helped Japanese people with the kindest of hearts. So this is also a big thanks from<br />

Japanese fans to New Orleans for giving the world such a wonderful present called jazz.”<br />

FAVORITE SONGS • “What a Wonderful World” and “When the Saints Go Marchin’ In.”<br />

33


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COOK SOMETHING UP WITH THE JETBOIL HELIOS<br />

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND // PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN LAWTON<br />

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38<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

Put a Ring on It<br />

WITH THE HELP OF VIDEO AND SOCIAL NETWORKING<br />

FEATURES, A NEW COMPANY HOPES TO REVIVE THE RINGTONE.<br />

BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE // ILLUSTRATION BY QUICKHONEY<br />

IN THE MOBILE GENERATION’S coming of age,<br />

the ringtone was an early expression<br />

of self. A little dose of “Heya!” hinted<br />

at the buttoned-up businesswoman’s<br />

wild side. It was an easy icebreaker, a<br />

means of reinvention and, as the music<br />

LORDS<br />

OF THE<br />

RING<br />

USA<br />

JAPAN<br />

FRANCE<br />

UK<br />

SOUTH<br />

KOREA<br />

RINGTONE REVENUE<br />

Ringtone sales were down in 2008, but they<br />

still brought in more than half a billion dollars from<br />

the world’s fi ve largest markets.<br />

$100 m<br />

$200 m<br />

industry will fondly recall, nearly a<br />

billion-dollar business.<br />

For a while, ringtones were<br />

charming. But as technology advanced<br />

and the market grew, so did the<br />

opportunity for overkill—especially<br />

when one’s cell, left in a<br />

coat pocket, wound up<br />

serenading the offi ce<br />

with the latest Black<br />

Eyed Peas megahit. In<br />

$300 m<br />

SOURCE: MUSICALLY/IFPI<br />

2008, ringtone sales<br />

were down 24 percent<br />

from the previous<br />

year, when Americans<br />

shelled out $714 million<br />

for their phones to ring<br />

out the jams.<br />

Can the ringtone be<br />

saved? Vringo, a New<br />

York–based start-up, is<br />

banking on it. Its plan<br />

is to bring social media,<br />

video and more targeted<br />

personalization to the<br />

business, which once<br />

tech<br />

made up 80 percent of the mobile<br />

phone music market. The killer<br />

innovation? Instead of downloading<br />

ringtones to your own phone, Vringo’s<br />

software allows you to choose the<br />

ring that will play on the phones you<br />

call. Better yet, you can send video as<br />

well—be it a clip downloaded from the<br />

internet or one you recorded yourself.<br />

There’s just one catch: Both phones<br />

must have the program installed.<br />

Founded in 2006, Vringo hopes<br />

to become the Facebook or Twitter<br />

of ringtones by bringing the everpopular<br />

social networking aspects<br />

of those sites to cell phones. “The<br />

ringtone died because no one was<br />

showing consumers what to do with<br />

it,” says Ross Neumann, Vringo’s<br />

content manager. “We make it possible<br />

to update your friends on how you’re<br />

feeling and give your call context.<br />

Are you happy? Sad? Just broken up<br />

with? It enriches the experience.”<br />

And it allows you to better screen<br />

your calls. Has your ex changed his<br />

or her Vringo ringtone to “Baby Come<br />

Back”? Better let that go to voicemail.<br />

Vringo is currently seeking<br />

partnerships with mobile carriers to<br />

off er the service through calling plans<br />

and already has several deals in place<br />

in the Middle East and Asia. Earlier<br />

this year it began the process of fi ling<br />

for an initial public off ering, with<br />

hopes of raising up to $13.8 million.<br />

For now, the revenues are miniscule<br />

(just $36,000 in 2008 and 2009),<br />

and Vringo’s success is anything but<br />

certain. Still, Neumann, whose friends<br />

hear Black Sabbath’s “Iron Man” when<br />

he calls, is not deterred. “People don’t<br />

use their phones to communicate their<br />

personalities,” he says. “We’re hoping<br />

to bring back that connection.”<br />

ALYSSA GIACOBBE still thinks her Guns N’<br />

Roses ringtone is charming.


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40<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

wheels<br />

Larger than Life<br />

THE <strong>2010</strong> PORSCHE PANAMERA TURBO ISN’T JUST A STUNNING NEW<br />

HIGH-PERFORMANCE FOUR-DOOR—IT’S A SLEEK, RIP-SNORTING CHALLENGE TO THE<br />

VERY CONCEPT OF THE LUXURY SEDAN. // BY MIKE GUY<br />

IT IS SAID THAT when the fi rst European<br />

explorers came over the horizon in<br />

the Caribbean, the geometry of masts<br />

and sails and the sheer bulk of the<br />

approaching wooden hulls were so alien<br />

to the eyes of the native population that<br />

many of them simply couldn’t process<br />

what they were seeing. That’s how I feel<br />

when I fi rst encounter the <strong>2010</strong> Porsche<br />

Panamera Turbo in a garage full of<br />

equally luxurious cars. With its classic<br />

spoon-front grille and super-low profi le,<br />

the Panamera is unmistakably a<br />

Porsche, but at fi rst glance, there’s<br />

just too much of it. That’s because it’s a<br />

sedan, an unheard-of confi guration for<br />

an automaker famous for making<br />

racy little coupes.<br />

When I step inside and see the<br />

perfectly arrayed cockpit, I’m<br />

comforted. More so when, on the<br />

narrow strip of highway between<br />

Jacksonville and Daytona Beach,<br />

Florida, I get to take her out for a spin.<br />

Driven properly, a Porsche should<br />

be an intense experience. The<br />

Panamera Turbo comes equipped<br />

with a turbocharged 4.8-liter V-8<br />

engine that grinds out 500 horsepower,<br />

a seven-speed double-clutch<br />

transmission with paddle shifters<br />

and a multistage active spoiler on the<br />

tail that raises automatically as the<br />

vehicle speeds up. Outfi tted thus,<br />

the Panamera goes zero to 60 in under<br />

four seconds.<br />

The Turbo’s top<br />

speed is said to<br />

be 188 mph. We<br />

advise against<br />

testing that data.<br />

1<br />

2<br />

Massive 14.2–inch<br />

disc brakes improve<br />

on Porsche’s<br />

legendary stopping<br />

power.<br />

This lithe new European arrival<br />

is surprisingly roomy, but like those<br />

early Spanish conquistadores, it’s<br />

not exactly family-friendly. If you’re<br />

looking for a roomy daily driver<br />

and money isn’t an issue, this <strong>may</strong><br />

be a perfect selection. But think<br />

twice before putting babyseats in<br />

the back.<br />

1 2 3 4<br />

3<br />

At more than 16<br />

feet long, it’s got<br />

three inches on<br />

the comparable<br />

Mercedes CLS 63.<br />

The spoiler sits<br />

fl ush with the<br />

body until 56 mph,<br />

when it extends<br />

automatically.<br />

4<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TRANSTOCK


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42<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

whereabouts<br />

The Places I Go:<br />

Thomas Struth<br />

THE RENOWNED PHOTOGRAPHER GETS<br />

HIS BEST SHOTS IN TOKYO.<br />

“Many cities are my favorites for<br />

different reasons, but Tokyo is at the top<br />

of the list. I fi nd it extraordinary how<br />

behind the front row of skyscrapers and<br />

offi ce buildings, you make two turns and<br />

feel like you’re in a very small Japanese<br />

village. I’ve actually been there thirteen<br />

times since 1986. In terms of food, I love<br />

exploring the various small restaurants<br />

in Ginza. They don’t have a menu, so you<br />

just get the dinner of the evening. To<br />

me, not having to choose is the ultimate<br />

in luxury.<br />

“I also did one of my favorite shoots<br />

in Tokyo at the National Museum of<br />

Western Art, which I think has the<br />

most exquisitely installed objects of<br />

art of any museum I’ve ever been<br />

to. When I heard the museum was<br />

exhibiting the painting by the French<br />

artist Delacroix, La Liberté, I delayed<br />

my fl ight out of Tokyo and faxed the<br />

Louvre for permission to shoot it—it’s<br />

their painting. It turned out to be well<br />

worth the trouble. The gallery was fi lled<br />

up like a movie theater for this one<br />

painting, and the photo was like a fi lm<br />

still from a dream.”<br />

Struth’s work is on display at<br />

New York’s Marian Goodman Gallery<br />

from May 5 to June 19.<br />

SELF PORTRAIT BY THOMAS STRUTH


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PHOTOGRAPH BY CONDE NAST ARCHIVE/CORBIS<br />

style<br />

Nifty Fifty<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM HEMISPHERESMA<br />

| MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

culture<br />

ART & COMMERCE<br />

THE DISTRICT THAT SPAWNED<br />

MOD FASHION CELEBRATES ITS GO GOLDEN<br />

ANNIVERSARY. // BY CHRISTINE H. O’TOO O’TOOLE<br />

CARNABY STREET, STREET, the trendy London district<br />

that helped<br />

popularize the miniskirt, is turning 50 thi this year. But don’t<br />

expect a neighborhood made famous by the th Rolling Stones<br />

and the Sex Pistols to let down its hemlines. hemline With free<br />

concerts scheduled for June 5 and 6, Carnaby Carna Street rocks on.<br />

At the beginning of the Swinging ’60s, ffashionistas<br />

started<br />

swarming the narrow lanes off Regent Street, Stre London’s grand<br />

shopping boulevard. The Georgian storefronts storefr on these little<br />

roads housed increasingly edgy designer bo boutiques. One of the<br />

fashion mavens drawn to them was Zandra Rhodes, who started<br />

her couture career as a textile designer at th the tiny Foale & Tuffi n<br />

boutique. Using Rhodes’ brilliantly patter patterned fabrics, Marion<br />

Foale and Sally Tuffi n helped put tiny skirts, skir colored tights<br />

and the now-infamous pantsuit on the fashion fas map.<br />

The inspiration for the Carnaby Street llook?<br />

Pop Art, says<br />

Rhodes. “It was Andy Warhol and the Uni Union Jack and the U.S.<br />

stars and stripes and top hats—both sides<br />

of the Atlantic in<br />

a higgledy-piggledy mix.” Rockers took notice. no The vintage<br />

military jackets from a boutique called I WWas<br />

Lord Kitchener’s<br />

Valet showed up on Jimi Hendrix and infl uuenced<br />

the cover<br />

of The Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Cl Club Band. The<br />

district also played played a role in the emergence<br />

of punk, funk and<br />

hip-hop. And while the music <strong>may</strong> have ch changed, you can bet<br />

today’s fashionistas still stop in to pay hom homage to shops such<br />

as The Great Frog and Lambretta.<br />

45


46<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

Keeping It Simple<br />

AFTER A TOUGH YEAR—WHICH INCLUDED THE DEATH OF<br />

HIS MOTHER, A FOLKSINGING LEGEND—RUFUS WAINRIGHT<br />

RELEASES A PARED-DOWN RECORD. // BY ALAN LIGHT<br />

SINCE THE RELEASE of his last album, in<br />

2007, Rufus Wainwright has written<br />

and staged an opera, recreated Judy<br />

Garland’s legendary 1961 concert<br />

at Carnegie Hall and faced the<br />

death of his mother, folksinger Kate<br />

McGarrigle. So perhaps it’s no surprise<br />

that when it came time to record his<br />

latest eff ort, All Days Are Nights: Songs for<br />

Lulu, he wanted to keep things simple.<br />

“I was really in need of solitude,<br />

in order to process all the diff erent<br />

relationships that were inundating<br />

me,” he says of the choice to record<br />

with only piano accompanying his<br />

celebrated tenor.<br />

Wainwright’s fi ve previous<br />

albums have been characterized<br />

by complex compositions and<br />

ornate arrangements. But the<br />

36-year-old learned the power of<br />

more stripped-down music from his<br />

father, singer-songwriter Loudon<br />

Wainwright III. “Also, I’ve always<br />

been a little insecure about my piano<br />

ALSO THIS MONTH<br />

What else to listen to on the go in May<br />

COURT YARD<br />

HOUNDS<br />

Court Yard Hounds<br />

Sisters Martie<br />

Maguire and<br />

Emily Robison,<br />

the fi ddler and<br />

guitarist-banjoist,<br />

respectively, of<br />

the Dixie Chicks,<br />

formed this country-fried outfi t after<br />

Natalie Maines went on hiatus. The result<br />

blends the DC’s winsome porridge of plucky<br />

folk and serious Nashville chops—minus the<br />

political sloganeering.<br />

sound<br />

playing, so this was the chance to<br />

corner that beast.”<br />

The title of All Days Are Nights is<br />

taken from one of three Shakespeare<br />

sonnets that Wainwright sets to music.<br />

The album also features the fi nal<br />

aria from Wainwright’s opera,<br />

Prima Donna, which makes its North<br />

American debut in June at Toronto’s<br />

Luminato Festival.<br />

But Wainwright’s affi nity for<br />

classical forms often yields to other<br />

creative impulses. The record opens<br />

with “Who Are You New York?” a<br />

wistful meditation on the city, and<br />

closes with “Zebulon,” a soaring<br />

depiction of Wainwright’s teenage<br />

romances. “It’s a double-edged album,”<br />

he says. “I tried to create a spectrum<br />

that listeners can lose themselves<br />

in, with peaks of technique and valleys<br />

of simplicity.”<br />

Wainwright’s sister Martha, an<br />

acclaimed singer-songwriter herself,<br />

recently got married and had a baby,<br />

inspiring “Martha,” a sober refl ection<br />

on siblings watching their parents<br />

age. “It’s eerie that I fi nally wrote a<br />

song about my sister, and it’s coming<br />

out when we really need each other<br />

the most,” Wainwright says. “But the<br />

album was actually fi nished before my<br />

mother died. She got to hear a lot of it,<br />

and I believe that now her spirit is out<br />

in the ether and can help ferry these<br />

songs along.”<br />

The former editor in chief of Spin and<br />

Vibe, ALAN LIGHT is often lost in a valley<br />

of simplicity. PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN WESTENBERG (TOP)


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48<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

It’s a Small World<br />

WITH BABIES, FILMMAKER THOMAS BALMES LETS AUDIENCES<br />

SEE THE WORLD THROUGH FRESH EYES. // BY ADAM K. RAYMOND<br />

PONIJAO, A JOYFULLY mischievous<br />

Namibian infant, sits in the dirt with<br />

her older brother, playing with rocks.<br />

She reaches for a bottle; her sibling<br />

snatches it from her. She bites him. He<br />

slaps her. She cries. He turns back to the<br />

rocks indiff erently.<br />

It’s the kind of adorable moment<br />

that might rack up millions of views<br />

on YouTube. But this isn’t a Handycam<br />

clip, it’s the opening scene of Babies, a<br />

documentary full of crawling, cooing<br />

and, yes, even some crying. “I hope it<br />

inspires viewers to learn about diff erent<br />

cultures,” says the fi lm’s director,<br />

Thomas Balmes.<br />

Out this month from Focus Features,<br />

Babies documents a year in the life of four<br />

infants—one each in Namibia, Mongolia,<br />

Tokyo and San Francisco—from birth<br />

through the torments of teething to their<br />

fi rst unsteady steps. Nearly 80 minutes<br />

long and virtually dialogue-free, Babies<br />

is one of Balmes’ stark observational<br />

documentaries, which also include<br />

“ I hope it inspires people to learn about<br />

different cultures,” Thomas Balmes says. “It<br />

might make some of them want kids, too.”<br />

vision<br />

examinations of mad cow disease and<br />

tribes in Papua New Guinea. Embedded<br />

with his subjects, whom he cast while<br />

they were still in the womb, Balmes<br />

blends into the background and keeps<br />

his camera rolling as “reality off ers these<br />

amazing moments.”<br />

In Babies those moments are<br />

plentiful—from the sight of Mongolian<br />

tot Bayar sitting in a tub of water<br />

as a goat saunters up for a drink, to<br />

American baby Hattie discovering the<br />

edible part of a banana. Such scenes are<br />

presented without narration, which is<br />

one of the fi lm’s great strengths. “I don’t<br />

like to take the viewer by the hand,”<br />

says Balmes. But there’s no guidance<br />

needed to get the message of Babies,<br />

which demonstrates that despite how<br />

little these far-fl ung families seem to<br />

have in common, when it comes to our<br />

earliest experiences, humans around<br />

the world aren’t so diff erent after all.<br />

Imparting such lessons is the<br />

overarching goal of Babies, which Balmes<br />

insists is about more than adorable<br />

cheeks and chubby toes. He hopes the<br />

fi lm inspires viewers to see the world<br />

anew. “Hopefully it will make some of<br />

them want to have kids, too,” he says.<br />

“It’s one of the most beautiful things in<br />

the world.”<br />

Senior editor ADAM K. RAYMOND still prefers<br />

his peas mashed.


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50<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

WHEN WRITER Marlene Van Niekerk was<br />

growing up in South Africa’s Overberg<br />

region, her father, who worked for the<br />

agriculture department, sometimes<br />

brought her along on visits to local farms.<br />

On one such call, she was struck by the<br />

presence of a young African girl who<br />

took care of a white family’s children.<br />

This was in the mid-1960s, when<br />

apartheid was at its height and the<br />

races rarely mixed. “I was fascinated by<br />

her,” recalls Niekerk, an Afrikaner.<br />

The girl, Niekerk discovered, had<br />

been adopted, and she occupied an<br />

unusual position in the household—<br />

not quite daughter and not quite<br />

servant, but something in between.<br />

Years later, she has become the title<br />

character of Niekerk’s extraordinary<br />

new novel, Agaat, which no less<br />

a critic than Nobel laureate Toni<br />

Morrison deemed “as brilliant as it<br />

is haunting.” Shifting back and forth<br />

in time, the book tells the story of the<br />

psychologically charged relationship<br />

between Agaat and the Boer farmwife<br />

Milla, who plucks her out of extreme<br />

poverty, turning her into a surrogate<br />

child before exploiting her as a<br />

housemaid. Decades later, with<br />

apartheid on the wane, an aging Milla<br />

develops a progressive neurological<br />

disorder and is bedridden, unable to<br />

move or speak. In a momentous role<br />

reversal, Agaat becomes her nurse, her<br />

heir and occasionally her tormentor.<br />

In addition to its vivid emotional<br />

resonance, Agaat is notable for the<br />

wealth of detail it imparts about<br />

rural life in South Africa before<br />

industrialized farming—everything<br />

from four-stage crop rotation to<br />

how to counteract tulip poisoning in<br />

cattle. “I see it as a way of preserving<br />

the language, the farming methods,<br />

the folklore—things that are quickly<br />

disappearing now,” Niekerk says.<br />

The novel has been read as a<br />

political allegory, and Niekerk, whose<br />

fi rst book, Triomf, was a scathing dark<br />

print<br />

Out of Africa<br />

NOVELIST MARLENE VAN NIEKERK JOINS THE RANKS OF GORDIMER AND<br />

COETZEE WITH AGAAT, HER UNFLINCHING PORTRAIT OF THE SHIFTING FORCES<br />

SHAPING SOUTH AFRICA. BY AARON GELL // ILLUSTRATION BY THOMAS ALLEN<br />

comedy about a damaged Afrikaner<br />

family, acknowledges that the legacy<br />

of apartheid is layered throughout her<br />

work. “I’m always interested in looking<br />

at how intimate power relationships<br />

between people are related to bigger<br />

forces such as race, class and gender,”<br />

she says. Niekerk adds, however,<br />

that Agaat’s uncertain status on the<br />

farm also parallels her own feelings<br />

of alienation as a progressive and a<br />

lesbian growing up in a strict Afrikaner<br />

household. A writer’s characters are<br />

always brought to life, she explains,<br />

“by one’s own psychological energies.”<br />

Writing the book was powerful<br />

catharsis, recalls the author, who<br />

directs the master’s program in<br />

creative writing at Stellenbosch<br />

University. “I cried the whole time,”<br />

she says. “I always try to explore areas<br />

that are beyond my comfort zone.”<br />

AARON GELL is editor in chief of<br />

Hemispheres.


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Be the Ball<br />

THAILAND MAY SEEM A LITTLE OFF THE BEATEN PATH FOR<br />

GOLF LOVERS, BUT WHEN YOU APPLY THE TEACHINGS OF THE<br />

BUDDHA, YOU MIGHT JUST BECOME ONE WITH THE HOLE.<br />

BY JAMES A. FRANK // ILLUSTRATION BY BARRY BLITT<br />

There is nothing more dreadful than<br />

the habit of doubt. — SIDDHARTHA<br />

GAUTAMA (“THE BUDDHA”), 563-483 BCE<br />

THE BUDDHA WOULD HAVE made a good<br />

golf instructor.<br />

Rather than show his students the<br />

proper grip or stance, he would point<br />

them toward the Right Path. He’d teach<br />

chakras instead of chipping, mantras<br />

instead of mid-irons, the Four Noble<br />

Truths instead of a Five-Step Swing.<br />

The game would be just that: a game. It<br />

would be…serene. In other words, the<br />

way it’s supposed to be.<br />

And the spiritual home of golf<br />

wouldn’t be gray, dour Scotland, but<br />

rather sunny, happy Thailand, where<br />

these days golf courses are multiplying<br />

like bamboo.<br />

A few years ago, someone had the<br />

bright idea of luring visitors to Thailand<br />

with lush fairways where they could<br />

combine the ultimate game of selffl<br />

agellation with a culture of peace<br />

and inner harmony. The ploy seems<br />

to have worked. Today, playing golf in<br />

Thailand can be a Zen-like experience,<br />

leading even the most ill-tempered,<br />

hard-swinging hacker to adopt a new<br />

attitude of tranquility, one that the<br />

Buddha would surely approve of.<br />

sports<br />

CULTURE | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

There are now more than 250<br />

courses in Thailand, catering to local<br />

businessmen as well as golfers from<br />

the rest of the world. For the visitor,<br />

there are <strong>may</strong>be 50 good courses, a<br />

dozen of those worth a special trip to<br />

play. (Most of the rest are run by the<br />

country’s armed forces.) Although the<br />

nation’s geography ranges from jungle<br />

and mountains in the north to sand and<br />

sea in the south, certain givens apply<br />

to all the top clubs: great conditions,<br />

top amenities, delightful caddies,<br />

delicious food and unfailingly cold<br />

beer. Also, aff ordable prices: A week of<br />

golf in Thailand costs roughly the same<br />

53


54<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

as a week in Orlando or Scottsdale,<br />

including airfare.<br />

The whole secret of existence is<br />

to have no fear.<br />

Golf can be painful. It’s demanding,<br />

demeaning and demoralizing—<br />

mentally and physically. I’ve learned<br />

this on courses around the<br />

world. But as I arrive in<br />

Thailand—admittedly, a long<br />

trip from New York just to<br />

golf—I view this as a chance<br />

to open my consciousness<br />

to peace and greater<br />

enlightenment. Or at least a<br />

smoother swing.<br />

My journey begins an<br />

hour from Bangkok at the<br />

Thai Country Club, a short<br />

track lined with trees and water. It’s<br />

a good warm-up, although it can<br />

make one hot with anger. Pro golfers<br />

have been known to pass through<br />

here and blow their cool on the<br />

devastating par-four 10th hole. It’s<br />

rare that I can compare myself to a<br />

pro, but at Thai CC, I’m humbled by<br />

the 10th, searching fruitlessly for good<br />

vibrations and fi nding only muscle<br />

spasms. I wouldn’t have minded threeputting<br />

if I’d been able to hit a green in<br />

that many strokes fi rst.<br />

The next day, I play two courses at the<br />

Siam Country Club in the hills outside<br />

town. The classically styled Old Course<br />

was the fi rst privately owned links in<br />

the country, and it hosted an LPGA<br />

Tour event a few years ago. Thankfully,<br />

it’s a big ballpark with lots of room,<br />

so I feel able to swing more freely,<br />

less worried about a shot slicing into<br />

Cambodia. But it’s a roller coaster: On<br />

one shot, I’d think I’d found the key; on<br />

the next, I’d fi nd a pond, a tree, a new<br />

depth of frustration.<br />

The wilder, more modern Plantation<br />

Course features more sand than the<br />

Jersey Shore. On the par-fi ve fi fth hole,<br />

I manage to avoid all 27 bunkers and<br />

reach the green in three magical shots.<br />

I start to feel that false sense of security<br />

golfers get when they think they’ve “got<br />

The lush, rolling hills of Banyan Golf Course<br />

are mentally challenging and nonstop fun. For a few<br />

holes, good vibes help my game transcend.<br />

BOARDING PASS<br />

Fly United to<br />

Bangkok and<br />

experience<br />

Thailand’s capital<br />

city and national<br />

treasures. Explore<br />

the magnifi cent<br />

palaces and<br />

temples, and leave<br />

the worries of<br />

getting there up<br />

to us.<br />

it.” My muscles loosen (it could be the<br />

heat or the humidity, both approaching<br />

triple digits), and my normally leaden<br />

putting stroke gains a silky smoothness.<br />

And a birdie.<br />

The following morning, I tee off<br />

at dawn at the year-and-a-half-old<br />

award-winning Banyan<br />

Golf Club in the hills outside<br />

Hua Hin. Lush, rolling,<br />

mentally challenging and<br />

nonstop fun, it’s my favorite<br />

course in Thailand. For a<br />

few holes, good vibes help<br />

my game transcend. The<br />

course suits my eyes, and<br />

my strokes seem to conform<br />

perfectly to each of its<br />

contours.<br />

Later I treat myself to a<br />

massage. Thai massage techniques,<br />

incorporating tenets also found<br />

in acupuncture and yoga, work<br />

every limb and joint. But be warned:<br />

NAMAS-TEE<br />

How to fi nd the Right<br />

Path to the right<br />

fairway.<br />

The standard rubdown can prove<br />

too forceful for the uninitiated, and<br />

inner peace can quickly turn into<br />

outer pain.<br />

Still, Mark Siegel—an American<br />

who moved to Thailand 20 years ago<br />

and now runs tour operator olfAsian—<br />

gets a feet, hands, neck and head<br />

massage nearly every day. For about<br />

six dollars an hour, the therapist works<br />

away his stress while he taps away<br />

on his laptop, the perfect melding of<br />

business and pleasure.<br />

He is able who thinks he is able.<br />

The caddies in Thailand are mostly<br />

young women who can make a better<br />

living carrying clubs than working<br />

in an offi ce or factory. Wearing long<br />

sleeves, wide-brimmed hats and gloves<br />

as protection from the scorching sun,<br />

these cheerful ambassadors also fi ll<br />

in as both Sherpa and nurse. They’re<br />

great at judging yardage and reading<br />

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rides, as well as connect with resorts, instructors and even a<br />

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GOLF IN A KINGDOM • GOLFINAKINGDOM.COM • In case you’re still not<br />

sure where to begin, this website forms a sort of consortium of<br />

clubs, with descriptions of the best of the country’s 250 courses.


greens, and they will run back to the<br />

snack shack in oppressive humidity<br />

to bring you a cold drink. Feel an ache<br />

coming on? They’ll massage your back<br />

or shoulders.<br />

At Thai Country Club, my group<br />

is surprised by a sudden downpour.<br />

The caddies quickly cover our clubs,<br />

don cellophane rainsuits and scan the<br />

skies for lightning. My caddie, Siep,<br />

ushers me into the cart and snaps<br />

open an umbrella, which she proceeds<br />

to hold over me. It’s a nice gesture,<br />

but I feel a bit ridiculous. I repeatedly<br />

beg her to come in from the rain, but<br />

she refuses.<br />

To conquer oneself is a greater victory<br />

than to conquer thousands in a battle.<br />

The longer I’m in Thailand, the more<br />

the good golf karma takes hold, and<br />

the more my game shows fl ashes of<br />

adequacy. After a few days of fl ailing,<br />

I begin to feel fl uid. I slow down,<br />

realizing that I have to cool off inside<br />

to beat the heat outside. I start to really<br />

notice the bountiful plant and animal<br />

life, and turn my mind from keeping<br />

score to soaking in the experience.<br />

After all, it’s about the journey, not<br />

the destination.<br />

And then I have it—my Zen golf<br />

moment. Fans of Caddyshack will<br />

understand when I say that I actually<br />

stopped thinking long enough to<br />

“be the ball.” It is my fi nal round in<br />

Thailand, a tee shot on one of the last<br />

holes. My swing suddenly develops<br />

tempo and makes a perfect turn. The<br />

ball rockets off the face, traces the<br />

shape of the fairway and bounces<br />

well past the other drives from my<br />

foursome. For one swing, I have<br />

reached a higher plane of golf wisdom.<br />

I will see that shot in my head for<br />

months to come.<br />

One hole later, I shank it straight<br />

into the water. As the Buddha says, Life<br />

is suff ering.<br />

The former editor of Golf Magazine, JAMES<br />

A. FRANK has a registered handicap of 14 and<br />

a seriously tweaked muladhara chakra.<br />

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dispatches<br />

One Giant Leap<br />

THE RAVENOUS, UNSTOPPABLE ASIAN CARP IS THREATENING<br />

TO TAKE OVER AMERICAN LAKES AND RIVERS. ONE LOUISIANA CHEF<br />

IS TRYING TO BITE BACK. HUNGRY?<br />

BY ETHAN BROWN // PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER FRANK EDWARDS<br />

IT’S AN EXCEEDINGLY strange story with a fable-like quality: In<br />

the early 1970s, catfi sh farmers in Kansas imported shipments<br />

of Asian carp—a huge, heavy-bodied fi sh known for its ability<br />

to jump and its insatiable appetite—all the way from China in<br />

order to clean out algae from his catfi sh ponds. Widespread<br />

fl ooding in the early ’90s washed them into nearby rivers<br />

and streams, where they took up residence. That’s when<br />

the trouble began. Carp are such hearty eaters that they can<br />

gobble up nearly 40 pounds of plankton per day, which is why<br />

farmers chose them for cleaning the algae out of their catfi sh<br />

ponds in the fi rst place. In their new habitat in the Kansas<br />

River Basin, however, they ate and multiplied so prodigiously<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

that the local food sources were soon depleted, sending native<br />

species into rapid decline.<br />

Since then, the fi sh, which can weigh up to 100 pounds<br />

and have become infamous for causing Jet Ski accidents and<br />

vaulting across roads, are now plentiful in the Mississippi<br />

and Missouri rivers and are threatening to conquer the Great<br />

Lakes. Indeed, among fi shermen, state wildlife offi cials and<br />

the federal government, fear of this<br />

CATCH OF THE<br />

DAY The silverfi n<br />

fi shcake in<br />

crawfi sh tomato<br />

cream sauce<br />

food&drink<br />

invasive species has grown so great<br />

that in early February the Obama<br />

administration announced a $78.5<br />

million initiative to prevent its spread.<br />

57


58<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

The carp, however, has so far<br />

made chum out of the various<br />

antifi sh technologies deployed by its<br />

opponents: It’s reportedly already<br />

bypassed an electric barrier meant<br />

to hold it back, and its arrival in the<br />

Great Lakes now seems assured.<br />

Environmentalists, wildlife experts,<br />

politicians—the carp has outsmarted<br />

them all.<br />

But down in the steamy bayous<br />

outside Baton Rouge, Louisiana, the<br />

wily carp <strong>may</strong> have fi nally met its<br />

match, in the form of a highly motivated and crafty<br />

chef/entrepreneur named Philippe Parola, who is wagering<br />

that the best way to combat the carp is to learn to love<br />

it—as dinner.<br />

Parola’s introduction to the fi sh happened accidentally, in<br />

a slapstick episode in the late summer of 2009, when he was<br />

angling for catfi sh from a skiff in the Atchafalaya Basin—a<br />

delta in south central Louisiana near the Gulf of Mexico.<br />

Around midday, he and a friend, Cajun fi sherman<br />

Billy Frioux, were about to dig into lunch when two carp—<br />

weighing 25 pounds each—leaped into their boat, landing<br />

right at the startled Parola’s feet.<br />

“They just jumped into the wrong boat,” Frioux quipped<br />

to the chef. An adventurous eater, Parola quickly dispatched<br />

the carp and put the fi sh on ice. That night, he cooked them<br />

up, fi nding their meat far more fl avorful than he’d imagined.<br />

“They were pretty tough to clean,” he says, “which is<br />

sometimes a bad sign. But the taste was great—somewhere<br />

between crabmeat and scallops.” The maligned carp, he<br />

realized, might actually fi nd a place at the New Orleans<br />

• 1 lb. silverfi n fi let<br />

• 8 tbsp unsalted butter, melted<br />

• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard<br />

• 1 tbsp lemon juice<br />

• 1 egg, beaten<br />

SILVERFIN CAKES<br />

Makes four servings<br />

• 2 tbsp bread crumbs<br />

• 1 cup seasoned fl our<br />

• 4 tbsp vegetable oil<br />

• Seasoning and hot sauce<br />

to taste<br />

Poach or steam silverfi n until fully cooked, then break it up into<br />

pieces to remove bones. Place the meat into a mixing bowl. Add<br />

butter, mustard, half the egg and lemon juice, and mix well. Add<br />

bread crumbs, seasoned to taste. Form small cakes. Coat with<br />

remaining egg wash and seasoned fl our. Fry in cooking oil over<br />

medium-high heat for four to fi ve minutes until golden brown.<br />

Serve with a beurre blanc or lemon butter sauce.<br />

NET GAIN Netting Asian carp on the Atchafalaya River outside Baton<br />

Rouge. The fi sh is renowned for its exceptional jumping ability.<br />

table beside staples such as tilapia, trout and the wise,<br />

whiskered catfi sh.<br />

Parola has a history of innovating with exotic foods, such<br />

as alligator meat and nutria (a semiaquatic rodent), which<br />

he introduced to diners in the French Quarter. With the<br />

Asian carp, his fi rst step was to change the name to silverfi n<br />

(also the title, coincidentally, of a book about the young<br />

James Bond). “Carp isn’t exactly the most inviting of names,”<br />

he explains. Then, with the backing of the Louisiana<br />

Department of Wildlife and Fisheries (which, like other<br />

state wildlife agencies, is struggling to battle the species’<br />

growth), Parola mapped out a scheme to bring the fi sh to<br />

supermarkets and the dining rooms of fi ne restaurants. He<br />

began by partnering with the New Orleans Fish House to<br />

distribute frozen, deboned silverfi n steaks and prepared<br />

cakes to established grocery store chains in Louisiana,<br />

such as the family-owned Rouse’s, which is an enthusiastic<br />

proponent of the “buy local” ethos.<br />

Getting the word out hasn’t been easy. A quick silverfi n<br />

survey of chefs in New Orleans brought a series of brusque<br />

dismissals. “Have never used it or tasted it before,” said<br />

Alon Shaya, executive chef at popular New Orleans Italian<br />

restaurant Domenica, which is part of the sprawling<br />

Louisiana restaurant empire of chef John Besh. “I couldn’t<br />

comment on the quality of the fi sh since I’ve never used it.”<br />

Beyond that, the major obstacle to marketing the silverfi n<br />

is its complex skeletal structure—it’s bony, which is why<br />

Parola’s currently hard at work on inventing a machine that<br />

can debone silverfi n fast enough to match a professional<br />

kitchen’s pace.<br />

Louisiana food writers and bloggers believe that if Parola<br />

is able to resolve the deboning issue, he has a good shot at<br />

getting silverfi n onto Louisiana menus. Diners in the New<br />

Orleans area and the broader Gulf Coast are often more<br />

interested in the manner in which fi sh is prepared than the<br />

actual fi sh itself, notes New Orleans–based food blogger<br />

and Off Beat magazine food critic Rene Louapre. According<br />

to Louapre, diners wouldn’t mind a bit if one day their trout<br />

almondine becomes silverfi n almondine. “If restaurants


food&drink<br />

substituted Asian carp for trout, I honestly don’t think<br />

anyone would be any wiser,” Louapre says. “Especially<br />

if it is inexpensive and is served in a style that people are<br />

accustomed to eating.”<br />

Parola’s silverfi n quest is still a grassroots operation.<br />

His rollout of the fi sh to restaurants has been slow and<br />

is dependent on younger, less established chefs willing<br />

to take a gamble on it. For now, just one restaurant in the<br />

“ The taste was great—between<br />

crabmeat and scallops,” says chef<br />

Philippe Parola, who is rebranding<br />

the Asian carp as silverfi n.<br />

59<br />

Gulf South—Oceana Grill in the French Quarter—has<br />

added silverfi n to the menu, though Oceana chef Rami<br />

Bader says he is hugely enthusiastic about its prospects<br />

after experimenting with a silverfi n cake appetizer in late<br />

February. “I served the silverfi n cake with jambalaya and a<br />

mushroom cream sauce,” he says, “and the reaction from the<br />

customers was great. The meat was very white, and it had<br />

a very clean taste; it was not fi shy at all. Plus, the silverfi n<br />

turned out to be easy to debone. I just boiled it.”<br />

Meanwhile, the carp is out there, gobbling up algae and<br />

multiplying. “The only answer,” says Parola, “is to get the fi sh on<br />

the dining room table.”<br />

New Orleans writer ETHAN BROWN is the author of Shake the Devil<br />

Off , Snitch and Queens Reigns Supreme.<br />

FILET O’ FISH Chef Philippe Parola preps silverfi n in<br />

his kitchen in Baton Rouge<br />

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CALIFORNIA


Heavy Metal<br />

IN TIMES OF CRISIS, GOLD TAKES ON A SPECIAL SHINE.<br />

HOW DO WE KNOW WHEN THE MARKET HAS REACHED ITS PEAK?<br />

BY DOUGLAS RUSHKOFF // ILLUSTRATION BY GARY TAXALI<br />

WHEN TIMES GET TOUGH, investors<br />

traditionally look to gold as a safe<br />

haven for their capital. That’s the<br />

simplest explanation for the surge<br />

in gold prices during the economic<br />

crisis to an all-time high of $1,225 an<br />

ounce this past December. Of course,<br />

in real terms this was less than the<br />

$599 it hit in 1981, when Russia was<br />

in Afghanistan and America’s global<br />

dominance was in question. But it does<br />

prove that the metal retains its glittery<br />

allure for investors and national<br />

treasuries alike—especially when they<br />

don’t know where else to turn.<br />

Gold’s critics believe the recent<br />

pullback from these all-time highs<br />

signals the end of a bull market for gold<br />

and, therefore, (good news!) the end of<br />

speculation over a full-scale economic<br />

meltdown. Fans counter that we’re<br />

merely seeing a temporary retreat<br />

before even greater demand sets in.<br />

After all, many governments are still<br />

in trouble, and while they can print<br />

more paper money, they can’t pull<br />

more gold out of thin air. Research<br />

fi rm McKinsey & Company’s new<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

industry<br />

report on the global economic outlook,<br />

considered optimistic in most investing<br />

circles, paints a best-case scenario<br />

that calls for a six-year horizon for the<br />

unwinding of the debt crisis. That’s<br />

six years of nervous investors. And<br />

whenever investors get nervous, gold<br />

stands to gain.<br />

In the long term—since 1800, to be<br />

exact—the stock market has generally<br />

outperformed gold. That’s because<br />

most of the time, businesses can<br />

actually generate revenue, while gold<br />

can only ever store value. (Your gold<br />

61


MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

62 industry<br />

bricks can’t make chips, for instance—<br />

computer, potato or otherwise.) When<br />

the economy or geopolitical climate<br />

destabilizes, gold tends to shoot up<br />

as investors stop risking their money<br />

for the sake of growth and start<br />

looking instead for a means of capital<br />

preservation. “Unlike paper assets,<br />

stocks and bonds, gold cannot go to<br />

zero,” explains Charles Hugh Smith,<br />

author of Survial+: Structuring Prosperity<br />

for Yourself and the Nation.<br />

Even so, “gold bugs,” as enthusiasts<br />

of the metal are called, sometimes fi nd<br />

themselves in a peculiar position when<br />

it comes to the fate of the world. While<br />

owning a bit of gold has traditionally<br />

served as a hedge, the notion of<br />

aggressively investing in gold can seem<br />

a little like rooting for Armageddon.<br />

Whatever one’s predictions about<br />

the fate of the U.S. treasury and/or<br />

civilization as we know it, sophisticated<br />

investors looking to make gold a part of<br />

their portfolio owe it to themselves to<br />

distinguish between the monetary and<br />

psychological factors infl uencing gold’s<br />

price and to make decisions accordingly.<br />

Perhaps the most fascinating thing<br />

about gold is its reputation as the<br />

ultimate commodity: a real asset<br />

because it is actually worth something.<br />

The irony is that intrinsically, gold isn’t<br />

particularly valuable. It’s just rare.<br />

There’s a diff erence. In antiquity, gold<br />

became a great symbol of value because<br />

of its scarcity. Aside from being easy to<br />

sculpt, gold did not have any particular<br />

purpose for the ancients trading it.<br />

Instead, its scarcity guaranteed that<br />

coinage made with it could not be<br />

churned out infi nitely. Even paper<br />

money was backed by real gold reserves<br />

until the World Wars, when nations no<br />

longer had enough gold to back all the<br />

cash needed to fund their militaries.<br />

That’s when “In God We Trust” became<br />

the only thing diff erentiating paper<br />

money from, well, paper.<br />

Ever since money and gold were<br />

decoupled, they have tended to move in<br />

opposite directions. When people see<br />

their governments and treasuries as<br />

stable, they also maintain faith in their<br />

currencies and have little need for an<br />

alternative asset class. But during wars<br />

and other infl ation-inducing crises that<br />

cause currencies to lose value, gold<br />

tends to sparkle all the brighter.<br />

And of course, when the dollar goes<br />

GOING FOR THE GOLD<br />

down, everything from oil to ice cream<br />

goes up, because it takes more cash<br />

to buy anything. Even without the<br />

higher demand for gold, then, its price<br />

rises when the dollar falls. Stocks also<br />

tend to go up when the dollar is down,<br />

because most investors would rather<br />

own a portion of a thriving company<br />

than a stack of depreciating cash.<br />

But in the long term, a fi nancial crisis<br />

inevitably impacts the profi tability<br />

of businesses, and stocks too become<br />

dangerous places to be. Investors look<br />

for something real. The diff erence<br />

between gold and other commodities,<br />

however, is that while things such<br />

as oil and copper rarely do well in<br />

economic downturns—because a<br />

business slowdown usually means less<br />

immediate need for real resources—<br />

gold has very little real use beyond<br />

THE MAIN GOLD INVESTING STRATEGIES AND HOW TO PLAY THEM<br />

GOLD MINING COMPANIES<br />

One of the the easiest ways to get some gold exposure in a<br />

portfolio is to buy stock in the companies that mine it, such<br />

as Newmont Mining (NEM) and Goldcorp (GG). But a host of<br />

factors—such as low reserves, rising production costs and<br />

even politics—can negatively impact the stock price even<br />

when gold itself is going up.<br />

GOLD BULLION<br />

A number of companies, such as Bullion Vault and Gold<br />

Money, offer the ability to buy gold directly, which is then<br />

stored in vaults. While Bullion Vault has facilities in the U.S.,<br />

both companies also maintain vaults in Zurich and England,<br />

catering to investors who fear that the U.S. government will<br />

one day confi scate gold, as it did in 1933.<br />

GOLD COINS<br />

What good is a piece of a gold brick in a Zurich basement going<br />

to do for you in the apocalypse? In the event of economic<br />

collapse, some believe that gold coins, such as the South<br />

African Krugerrand or Canadian Maple Leaf, would be the only<br />

viable currency. Then again, if the worst came to pass, you<br />

might have better luck trading batteries or cans of tuna.<br />

GOLD ETFS<br />

Investors can also buy a stake in real gold through an<br />

“exchange-traded fund,” which, as the name implies, trades<br />

on the stock exchange throughout the day just like a regular<br />

stock. The ETF mirrors the spot price of gold and is backed<br />

by real gold that the fund buys at the end of each day. ICONS BY ELLIE CLAYMAN


MAY CROSSWORD ANSWERS<br />

63<br />

its function as a fi nancial instrument.<br />

Notes Kamal Naqvi, head of Fund<br />

Coverage for Commodities at Credit<br />

Suisse, “Gold’s value is supported<br />

largely by the fact that national banks<br />

buy gold and keep it as reserves.” It’s<br />

more valuable as a poker chip than as<br />

a commodity in its own right, which<br />

explains why in challenging times gold<br />

starts to look so appealing. The more<br />

fretful you are about the fate of the<br />

world (or the more fretful you think<br />

everyone else is), the more you want to<br />

When the economy<br />

destabilizes, the value of<br />

gold tends to shoot up.<br />

be in gold. Though, as Naqvi cautions,<br />

“Gold is better as a nonspecifi c hedge<br />

than the entirety of one’s investment<br />

strategy.” Smith agrees: “It’s as easy to<br />

lose money speculating in gold as in<br />

anything else.”<br />

Then again, if after the turmoil of the<br />

past few years you’ve actually got some<br />

capital left to invest, chances are you’ve<br />

been making the right decisions all<br />

along. Listen to your gut.<br />

DOUGLAS RUSHKOFF, author of Life, Inc.:<br />

How the World Became a Corporation<br />

and How to Take It Back, appreciates gold<br />

for being so fl exible.<br />

3<br />

Things T to look for<br />

Buying Gold<br />

Today, as it has throughout history, gold<br />

from rare or historic to modern, along with<br />

coins in between. Different products <strong>may</strong><br />

offer different features and benefits. You<br />

want to work with a company that offers a<br />

wide variety of products and can assist you<br />

in understanding them to make an informed<br />

decision.<br />

3. Acquisition Options<br />

When you acquire physical gold, you can<br />

have it shipped directly to you or stored in<br />

an independent facility (depending upon your<br />

state of residence, some restrictions <strong>may</strong><br />

apply). Another option is to acquire precious<br />

metals as part of your retirement planning.<br />

Decide how you want to keep your metals<br />

and be sure your company of choice can<br />

accommodate you.<br />

B 3<br />

Things to look for<br />

when<br />

Buying Gold<br />

fascinates collectors and enthusiasts for its<br />

beauty, cultural significance and rarity (only<br />

161,000 tons of gold have been mined in<br />

all of history – less than the capacity of two<br />

Olympic-sized swimming pools). Investors<br />

often turn to gold as a “safe haven asset” that<br />

provides a potential hedge against inflation<br />

and has intrinsic value. Once you have<br />

made the important decision to diversify your<br />

portfolio with gold, you must decide where to<br />

acquire your gold. Here are some factors to<br />

consider:<br />

1. Reputable Company<br />

Be sure you can rely upon the company you<br />

work with. When conducting your company<br />

research, consider the following questions:<br />

How long has the company been in business?<br />

What are their annual sales? How are they<br />

rated by consumer groups like the Better<br />

Business Bureau? Do they provide their<br />

policies in writing? Get the answers to these<br />

questions and be confident in a company<br />

before you purchase from them.<br />

2. Broad Coin Selection<br />

There are many types of gold coins available<br />

Why Goldline?<br />

Goldline has been helping investors and<br />

collectors acquire precious metals for 50<br />

years. Goldline offers a wide variety of<br />

gold, silver, and platinum coins and bars<br />

that can be delivered to your door, stored<br />

in a secure, independent facility, or added<br />

to your IRA.<br />

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Just as important as making the choice to<br />

invest in gold is ensuring you acquire your<br />

gold from the right company. Follow these<br />

key considerations and join savvy investors<br />

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Call Goldline at 1-877-498-8888 or visit<br />

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Contact Goldline at 1-877-498-8888 or www.goldline.com/united for a FREE Investor Kit<br />

*See Goldline’s Account and Storage Agreement for full details. Precious metals and rare coins can increase or decrease in value. Past performance is not a guarantee of future results.<br />

Review Goldline’s Account and Storage Agreement along with their risk disclosure booklet, Coin Facts for Investors and Collectors to Consider, prior to making a purchase. You <strong>may</strong> request copies<br />

by calling 1-877-498-8888 or review them online at www.goldline.com/united.


Introducing United’s new service to Bahrain.<br />

The only U.S. airline to fly to Bahrain.<br />

Fly the fastest route from the U.S. to the Kingdom of Bahrain. Daily departures<br />

from Washington Dulles to Bahrain International, via Kuwait, start this spring.<br />

For more information, visit united.com/bahrain.<br />

©<strong>2010</strong> United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.


HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

artifact<br />

Seoul’s trendily dressed teenagers crowd into market stalls<br />

to procure cell phone charms such as this one,<br />

outfi tted in traditional hanbok.<br />

P.<br />

82<br />

FEATURES<br />

66<br />

EXCELLENT ADVENTURES<br />

Twelve vacations<br />

you won’t forget<br />

76<br />

THE CREATOR<br />

Inventor Dean Kamen’s<br />

weird science<br />

By Kevin Gray<br />

82<br />

THREE PERFECT<br />

DAYS: SEOUL<br />

The South Korean<br />

capital’s got soul.<br />

By Layla Schlack<br />

65


WHITEWATER RAFTING<br />

COLORADO<br />

Few things get the heart racing like stepping off<br />

a perfectly good piece of earth and riding a raft<br />

through raging class III whitewater. The Yampa<br />

River in late spring is tough enough to make your<br />

brown eyes blue, and few meals taste as good as<br />

one cooked on a sandbar after shooting a rapid.<br />

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SUNSCREEN NOT INCLUDED.<br />

67<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM


YOU KNOW<br />

THAT LAWN CHAIR<br />

IN YOUR<br />

BACKYARD—<br />

the one with the drink<br />

holder built into<br />

the armrest? Kiss it<br />

goodbye this summer. Same with that favorite patch<br />

of sand at your local beach or water park. These are<br />

the totems of the staycation, and although they can<br />

be relaxing, they can also be a little...dull. Sort of<br />

“been there, done that.” Occasionally, something<br />

with a touch more oomph is called for. You don’t<br />

just want a break, you need an experience—going<br />

someplace you’ve never been and trying something<br />

completely new.<br />

But how? Start by isolating your comfort zone.<br />

Then take one step beyond it. Ever imagine hiking<br />

to the rim of a volcano in the Chilean desert, or<br />

trekking to temples in the Laotian jungle? Now’s<br />

the time. How about zipping through whitewater in<br />

Colorado, fi nding a perfect trout stream in Slovenia<br />

or charging down the Baja peninsula in a dune<br />

buggy? The following pages showcase a dozen<br />

adventures rated for diffi culty, along with outfi tters<br />

who can help with the planning. The rest is up to<br />

you. The point is to get out and do something. Your<br />

lawn chair will be there when you get back.<br />

SCALING A VOLCANO<br />

CHILE<br />

Chile’s high desert, the Atacama, hosts cacti, foxes, storied native<br />

tribes and a trio of soaring volcanos. Start out at the Tierra Atacama,<br />

a brand new luxury resort and the perfect launch pad to gather the<br />

courage—and hire a guide—to get you up one of three (hopefully)<br />

dormant domes: Lascar, San Pedro or Guallatiri.<br />

OUTFITTER: TIERRA ATACAMA<br />

tierraatacama.com<br />

MONTH <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

00<br />

DIFFICULTY:<br />

7<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUSTIN BAILIE (PREVIOUS SPREAD), FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF PROMO COMMUNICATIONS AND BY PETER DIANTONI (2)


RACING A BIKE<br />

THROUGH TUSCANY<br />

ITALY<br />

There are cycling enthusiasts,<br />

and then there are cycling<br />

enthusiasts who eschew latemodel<br />

bikes and fancy energy<br />

drinks in favor of vintage<br />

models and wine. The Eroica<br />

race—open to amateurs—is not<br />

easy: It includes 30,000 feet<br />

of elevation change and<br />

crosses mostly gravel roads.<br />

But the views are fantastic,<br />

and so is the prize for fi nishing:<br />

a nice bottle of Chianti.<br />

OUTFITTER: L’EROICA<br />

eroica-ciclismo.it<br />

DIFFICULTY:<br />

10<br />

UNITED.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong> 69


BLASTING OFF<br />

TROPOSPHERE<br />

Sometimes gravity can be a real drag. Zero<br />

G offers suborbital fl ights aboard a specially<br />

outfi tted 727—complete with padded walls—<br />

that lets participants learn what it feels like to<br />

experience zero Gs. It’s the ultimate diet.<br />

OUTFITTER: ZERO G<br />

gozerog.com<br />

DIFFICULTY:<br />

3<br />

EXPLORING<br />

INDOCHINA’S LAST<br />

WILDERNESS<br />

LAOS<br />

Skip the crowds at Angkor Wat by<br />

trekking into what <strong>may</strong> be the wildest<br />

jungle in Southeast Asia. Traverse lush<br />

green rice paddies, tour coffee and<br />

tea plantations, cool off under surging<br />

waterfalls and arrive at nearly pristine<br />

pre-Angkoran temples, which you’ll<br />

likely have all to yourself.<br />

OUTFITTER: GEOGRAPHIC EXPEDITIONS<br />

geoex.com<br />

DIFFICULTY:<br />

RIDING A DUNE BUGGY<br />

BAJA<br />

CALIFORNIA<br />

You’ll spend very little time on<br />

pavement during this ultimate offroad<br />

trip down the Baja peninsula, and<br />

by the time you reach Cabo San Lucas,<br />

you’ll be hot, tired and coated in dust—<br />

and more than ready for a dip in the<br />

azure waters of the Pacifi c.<br />

OUTFITTER: WIDE OPEN ADVENTURES<br />

wideopenbaja.com DIFFICULTY:<br />

6<br />

7<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ROK LUSTRIK, COURTESY OF ZERO-G, COURTESY OF WIDE OPEN COMPANIES, BY DAVID HALBAKKEN/ALAMY


TROUT FISHING IN EUROPE<br />

ITALIAN/<br />

SLOVENIAN<br />

BORDER<br />

They say the waters of the winding Soca river are as blue as the<br />

Caribbean—and they’re right. They also say the trout here are tougher,<br />

more beautiful and tastier than just about anywhere else in the world.<br />

They’re right about that, too. The best part? After a couple days of<br />

fi shing, you’re a quick drive from Milan, Munich, Ljubljana or Vienna.<br />

OUTFITTER: LUSTRIK FISHING ADVENTURES<br />

lustrik.com DIFFICULTY:<br />

3<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

71


HELI-HIKING THE MOUNT NIMBUS<br />

VIA FERRATA<br />

BRITISH<br />

COLUMBIA,<br />

CANADA<br />

Hop in a chopper at the base of Mount Nimbus,<br />

just north of Vancouver, and ride to a spot<br />

halfway up, where you can navigate a labyrinth<br />

of narrow rope bridges and iron traverses.<br />

Believe it or not, it’s a lot safer than rock<br />

climbing. Just don’t look down.<br />

OUTFITTER: CANADIAN MOUNTAIN HOLIDAYS<br />

canadianmountainholidays.com DIFFICULTY:<br />

5


PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF CMH HELI-SKIING & HELI-HIKING (LEFT) AND BY RODGER KLEIN/PHOTOLIBRARY<br />

SCUBA DIVING WITH SHARKS<br />

AUSTRALIA<br />

You don’t have to travel all that far north of Sydney to fi nd some<br />

of the most captivating underwater features on the planet. At<br />

the Solitary Islands Marine Park, you’ll discover vast coral reefs,<br />

otherworldy fi sh, crystalline water and, yes, the occasional<br />

hammerhead shark.<br />

OUTFITTER: JETTY DIVE<br />

jettydive.com.au<br />

DIFFICULTY:<br />

6<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong> 73


PADDLE SURFING<br />

ON THE BIG ISLAND<br />

HAWAII<br />

This latest It sport—popularized by<br />

superhuman surfer Laird Hamilton—<br />

combines the frothy gnarliness of<br />

surfi ng with the cardio workout of<br />

kayaking. Hawaii’s Big Island is the<br />

perfect place to learn—and to get your<br />

butt kicked.<br />

OUTFITTER: KONA BOYS<br />

konaboys.com DIFFICULTY:<br />

PUTTING PEDAL TO METAL<br />

THE POCONOS<br />

There are plenty of driving schools<br />

out there that let you zip around in<br />

a fast car, but very few that let you<br />

wheel the real deal. At the Pocono<br />

Raceway in rural Pennsylvania, you’ll<br />

pilot a 600-horsepower stock car that<br />

was used in the NASCAR circuit. From<br />

the moment you start your engine,<br />

you’ll realize there’s much more to<br />

circling a track at 170 mph than<br />

turning left.<br />

OUTFITTER: STOCK CAR RACING EXPERIENCE<br />

877stockcar.com<br />

DIFFICULTY:<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

9<br />

7


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOSS JOSS/PHOTOLIBRARY, BY BLICKWINKEL/ALAMY, BY<br />

GRAEME MURRAY, BY WORLDFOTO/ALAMY, COURTESY OF RAY IBE/MEGARAMP; COURTESY OF 877 STOCKCAR<br />

BIRDING IN WEST AFRICA<br />

GHANA<br />

When President Obama visited Ghana<br />

last year, the country was hailed as<br />

the “African miracle.” Find out why on<br />

a bus from Accra to Kokum National<br />

Forest, a nearly untouched preserve<br />

offering bird-watching safaris. While<br />

you’re looking for beasts that fl y,<br />

you’ll probably get some four-legged<br />

bonuses such as elephants, leopards,<br />

baboons and more.<br />

OUTFITTER: ALL AFRICA EXPEDITIONS<br />

allafricaexpeditions.com DIFFICULTY:<br />

DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME<br />

WE HEARTILY ADVOCATE ADVENTURE, BUT THIS STUFF IS JUST PLAIN RIDICULOUS.<br />

1 SKATEBOARDING A MEGARAMP<br />

> VISTA, CALIFORNIA Bob Burnquist’s<br />

MegaRamp is longer than a football<br />

fi eld and nearly eight stories tall.<br />

Should you fi nd yourself about to ride<br />

it, please reconsider.<br />

DIFFICULTY: 11<br />

3<br />

2 CLIMBING AN ICEBERG<br />

> ALASKA Climbing an iceberg is the<br />

sort of thing that seems like a good<br />

idea after you’ve run out of other<br />

activities in the dark of a sub-Arctic<br />

winter. It’s not.<br />

DIFFICULTY: 11<br />

3 B.A.S.E. JUMPING IN A WINGSUIT<br />

> NEW ZEALAND B.A.S.E. jumping—parachuting<br />

off fi xed objects such as buildings<br />

and cliffs—is dangerous. Donning<br />

a wingsuit and “fl ying” just above the<br />

ground? Madness.<br />

DIFFICULTY: 11<br />

HEMISPHERSMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong> 75


(FEATURE)<br />

HED: THE CREATOR<br />

DEK: TECH PIONEER DEAN<br />

KAMEN, BEST KNOWN FOR<br />

THE SEGWAY PEOPLE<br />

MOVER, THINKS SCIENCE<br />

EDUCATION NEEDS A JOLT<br />

OF<br />

TECH<br />

ELECTRICITY.<br />

PIONEER DEAN MAYBE KAMEN, BEST KNOWN<br />

FOR NECESSITY THE SEGWAY REALLY PEOPLE MOVER, CAN BE THINKS SCIENCE EDUCATION<br />

THE NEEDS MOTHER A JOLT OF ELECTRICITY.<br />

INVENTION.<br />

USE THE FORCE Kamen’s latest creation<br />

BY is the revolutionary KEVIN Luke GRAY<br />

Arm,<br />

named for Star Wars’ Skywalker.<br />

THE CRE


ATOR<br />

BY KEVIN GRAY<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN SAELINGER<br />

/<br />

UNITED.COM 77 MAY <strong>2010</strong>


:<br />

IF GEEKDOM EVER NEEDS<br />

AN ACTION HERO,<br />

DEAN KAMEN IS READY<br />

On a still, sunny day early this spring, Kamen—the wonky and chatty<br />

inventor of the Segway—hops Bond-like from his Enstrom helicopter and strides<br />

across the roof of his 1840s textile factory headquarters in downtown<br />

Manchester, New Hampshire.<br />

Forty-eight hours ago, he was in New Orleans, consulting<br />

with Army colonels about the functions of a $100,000<br />

prosthetic arm he is creating for amputee veterans. Then<br />

it was a quick trip to Washington, D.C., lobbying federal<br />

regulators to fast-track clinical trials for his at-home dialysis<br />

machine. His own home, a hexagonal manse with a Humvee<br />

in the garage and a 25-ton steam engine that belonged to<br />

Henry Ford in the foyer, is a few miles away. But Kamen<br />

spends most of his time here, amid 5,000 square feet of<br />

workshop and dozens of engineers.<br />

“This country is in trouble,” he tells me, sounding every<br />

bit the action hero as he bemoans the lack of interest in the<br />

type of hard science that built America. Kamen, 59, wears<br />

a denim-on-denim ensemble. His boots are well oiled and<br />

worn. An iPhone is holstered to his belt. In one corner of his<br />

workshop sits a gadget-strewn desk; in another, a lucite chair<br />

molded to give the impression that the user is perched on<br />

Albert Einstein’s lap. “You’ve got a few billion people around<br />

the world looking at what made us great, fi guring out the<br />

skill sets and teaching their kids,” he says. “More and more, I<br />

worry that we’ve fi gured out that watching the Super Bowl is<br />

fun and that science isn’t. We can change that.”<br />

Kamen is just warming up. More than bionic arms and<br />

dialysis, more than bringing clean water and energy to the<br />

developing world, more than helping people get around on<br />

/<br />

FOR THE JOB.<br />

UNITED.COM 78 MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

a self-balancing two-wheeler, Kamen wants to talk about<br />

America’s inventors of tomorrow. Eighteen years ago,<br />

when he fi rst became concerned that the nation’s youth<br />

weren’t engaged enough with science, Kamen, founder of<br />

DEKA Research and Development Corp., started one of the<br />

country’s largest technology competitions for high school<br />

kids. He called it FIRST—For Inspiration and Recognition of<br />

Science and Technology. Each April,<br />

TOTAL BRAINIAC<br />

At 21, Kamen<br />

invented an<br />

insulin pump.<br />

Below, his<br />

workshop<br />

its national robotics championship<br />

brings 10,000 high school and middle<br />

school students to the 72,000-seat<br />

Georgia Dome in Atlanta to take part<br />

in a unique problem-solving game.<br />

The concept is simple: After forming<br />

teams in their hometowns, students are given kits of<br />

common parts—motors, hydraulics, radio controllers—that<br />

they must assemble to create robots in six weeks. They are<br />

also given a complicated task for the robot to perform. This<br />

year, the task is a game called Breakaway, a kind of robot<br />

soccer in which the gizmos compete to collect soccer balls<br />

and maneuver them into a goal.<br />

Since he started the competition in 1992 in a high school<br />

gym in Manchester, Kamen—a self-taught engineer who<br />

devised a portable insulin pump when he was barely older<br />

than his FIRST competitors—has had one goal. “I wanted to<br />

prove you can make a science event every bit as exciting as<br />

football or basketball,” he says. “And the byproduct is kids<br />

learn how to think, to solve problems and be prepared to<br />

take over the world.”<br />

Kamen likes to say he has a day job and a fantasy job, the<br />

fantasy job being FIRST. The day job, of course, is running<br />

DEKA Research and seeking out and developing new<br />

products that he then licenses to manufacturers. One of the<br />

most highly anticipated is the Stirling engine, which can<br />

convert any fuel—cow dung, for instance—into electricity,<br />

and which could have a profound impact in the developing<br />

world. Among DEKA’s greatest hits to date are the insulin<br />

pump, a stair-climbing wheelchair and a coronary stent.<br />

Most recently, the U.S. Department of Defense gave DEKA<br />

an $18 million grant to develop a state-of-the-art prosthetic<br />

limb; Kamen—a proud nerd—has dubbed it the Luke Arm,<br />

after Luke Skywalker. It has 18 degrees of movement (the<br />

1


:<br />

human arm has 22) and utilizes an<br />

electronic gyroscope that senses pitch,<br />

yaw and roll—the same device Kamen<br />

used in the Segway, his much talkedabout,<br />

if not best-selling, human<br />

transporter. (“I think it’s sold pretty<br />

well since it started,” Kamen says a bit defensively. “I don’t<br />

know how long it will be before people stop using three<br />

thousand–pound cars to drive four blocks.”)<br />

As he makes the rounds of corporate suites, seeking<br />

sponsorship for FIRST, his pitch is earnest and alarming:<br />

Countries that don’t rise to the challenge of creating a stellar<br />

educational system will see precipitous declines in quality<br />

of life and economic security. “You get what you celebrate,”<br />

says Kamen. “Obsessing over sports crowds out a kid’s<br />

ability to see how fun math and science and inventing can<br />

be. It is our standard of living and security at stake.”<br />

Plenty of business leaders agree. General Motors gives<br />

$135,000 each year to help struggling school districts<br />

compete in FIRST, and some 275 of the automaker’s<br />

engineers work as team mentors. The computer-aided<br />

design maker Autodesk gives all of the teams a copy of<br />

its 3-D design program, a $17 million retail value. And<br />

Lego sponsors the junior robot contest for elementary and<br />

middle schoolers.<br />

Each year, Kamen’s competition births enough uplifting<br />

tales to fi ll a season on the Lifetime channel: the Los Angeles<br />

gang member who put down his colors and picked up<br />

power tools; the beloved Massachusetts + team that received<br />

a fi re and police escort back into town; the underfunded<br />

Bronx students whose robot fell apart en route to Atlanta,<br />

prompting other teams to chip in spare parts so they could<br />

compete; the Cleveland tech school that was about to be torn<br />

down but was saved by its robotics team’s fi rst-place ribbon.<br />

“If you go through our season without a tear in your eye,<br />

you might be a robot yourself,” declares Woodie Flowers, a<br />

mechanical engineering professor at MIT, who was among<br />

FIRST’s founding supporters. Flowers sees the robots “as<br />

/<br />

UNITED.COM 80 MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

“<br />

OBSESSING OVER SPORTS<br />

CROWDS OUT KIDS’ ABILITY TO<br />

SEE HOW FUN INVENTING IS. OUR<br />

STANDARD OF LIVING IS AT STAKE.”<br />

merely the campfi re around which the tribes gather” and<br />

believes the group’s true feat is building a sense of “gracious<br />

professionalism.” It’s a term that encompasses technical skill,<br />

determination, good will and sportsmanship. “We give them<br />

a problem too big in a time too short with a budget too<br />

small—just like in the real world,” he explains. “And then<br />

they achieve their goals with informed thinking and critical<br />

analysis. It gives them real self-esteem. Not because some<br />

politician comes in and says, ‘Everyone here is a winner.’ No,<br />

this self-esteem makes sense and is durable.”<br />

One of FIRST’s greatest strenths is its founder’s talent<br />

for promotion. Long before police offi cers were zipping<br />

TOOL TIME<br />

Opposite, inside<br />

Kamen’s<br />

Manchester<br />

workshop; below,<br />

his vintage IBM<br />

Selectric typewriter.<br />

around on Segways, the mysterious<br />

“Project Ginger,” as the then-topsecret<br />

transporter was known, was<br />

the subject of global obsession, with<br />

reports speculating that its impact<br />

could equal that of the internet.<br />

When Kamen wanted to build a<br />

wind turbine on an island he owns<br />

in Long Island Sound and the state of New York objected,<br />

he playfully seceded from the U.S. And he has burnished his<br />

image by opening his home to 60 Minutes and various design<br />

magazines.<br />

On this spring day, Kamen has several new projects on<br />

his plate. For instance, there’s the Stirling engine, which he<br />

recently used to power a couple of villages in Bangladesh<br />

using the methane produced by cow dung. He hopes to build<br />

a series of trial units for U.S. military outposts in Iraq and<br />

Afghanistan. “It’s looking more and more like we’ll get some<br />

serious support for that,” he says, declining to reveal the size<br />

of the potential contract.<br />

Throughout our talk, Kamen returns to two themes: the<br />

tradition of inventors from Eli Whitney to Thomas Edison,<br />

and the FIRST competition. He believes FIRST can be as<br />

big as the Super Bowl—when the rest of us are ready. “Ten<br />

years after the car was invented, it was still being called the<br />

horseless carriage,” he says. “We are reluctant to give up old<br />

ideas when something new happens.”<br />

Yet Kamen is undeniably a tech hero of the here and now.<br />

One of the coolest things currently on his drawing board<br />

is an innovation worthy of James Bond: a set of hydrofoils<br />

that allow swimming at twice the speed and half the energy<br />

output. “They’re carbon fi ber wings, like on a Manta. Really<br />

cool,” Kamen says. He built demos for the Navy SEALS,<br />

who have tested them and asked him to build more as<br />

quickly as he can. “It gives them almost superhuman ability<br />

underwater,” he says with a smile. “My guess is that all the<br />

Navy SEALS are going to want them.”<br />

Business writer KEVIN GRAY won his fi rst-grade science fair, but his<br />

engineer dad did all the work.


82<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

SEOUL FOOD Banchan (side dishes)<br />

clockwise from bottom right, white kimchi,<br />

eggplant, radish kimchi and spinach


SEOUL<br />

Three Perfect Days<br />

Despite being rooted in centuries-old traditions, the South Korean capital<br />

is unabashedly trendy and forward-looking. // BY LAYLA SCHLACK<br />

84 DAY ONE<br />

Ascending<br />

N Seoul Tower<br />

88 DAY TWO<br />

Experiencing<br />

palace life<br />

90 DAY THREE<br />

Riding the indoor<br />

roller coaster


84<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

FITTING TRIBUTE Clockwise<br />

from above, a mourner at the<br />

National Cemetery; Bukchon<br />

Village; Seoul from on high;<br />

opposite, the gardens at<br />

Changdeokgung Palace<br />

THERE MAY BE NO PLACE IN THE WORLD where the gap between ancient enchantment and<br />

modern attractions is more pronounced than in Seoul. Due to a legacy of invasion (by the<br />

Japanese, the Mongolians, the Chinese), the city has rebuilt itself numerous times since<br />

becoming the capital of the Joseon Dynasty in the 14th century. Its latest incarnation is<br />

divided into two zones: the design-forward, tech-savvy and trend-loving southern part<br />

of the city—where alleyways crowded with irresistible boutiques intersect wide streets<br />

lined with luxury condos and restaurants—and the more crowded area north of the Han<br />

River, where narrow streets are home to historical sites, traditional residences and packed<br />

outdoor markets. The city remains fi ercely proud of its traditions and monuments while<br />

wholeheartedly embracing commercial growth. It’s a major metropolis with pockets that feel<br />

untouched by industrialization. The joy of a visit is in plunging into both sides of Seoul—the<br />

old and the new—and imagining where the city will go from here.<br />

DAY 1 There’s a lot of walking on today’s agenda, so you’ll want a good breakfast. Grab<br />

1 a quick bite at Take Urban café (1), just two blocks from your home base at The Ritz-<br />

Carlton, Seoul (2). The exterior’s honeycomb-pattern facade and the spacious, rustic-chic<br />

interior are part of a modern design boom that’s taking place in the southern part of town.<br />

The coff ee is strong, the pastries are sweet, and the subway station is right outside. You’re<br />

ready to go. All directions are in English and Korean, which makes for an extra-easy ride for<br />

the uninitiated.<br />

Five quick stops later, you’re at the National<br />

Cemetery (3), a large park fi lled with exhibits of<br />

weaponry and photos of troops, a striking reminder<br />

of how profoundly the Korean War aff ected the city.<br />

Strolling among its gingko trees is like walking in<br />

the country, and after a while, you’re ready for a little<br />

more hustle and bustle. Get back on the subway to<br />

the Yongsan Electronics Market (4). The stalls outside<br />

are no-frills—just pegboards lined with processors,<br />

graphics cards and tangles of high-tech doodads.<br />

But as you head deeper into the maze of shops,<br />

away from the stalls and food carts, you’ll fi nd more<br />

buyer-friendly fare, such as tiny netbooks and an<br />

assortment of Hello Kitty portable hard drives. Time<br />

for a new desktop? The prices are on the high side,<br />

but if you’re planning to build your own computer—<br />

many Seoul-dwellers seem to be doing just that—this<br />

is the place to pick up the pieces.<br />

Opting for lunch instead, you jump into a cab<br />

and head for Sushi Hyo (5). At the sushi bar, the chef<br />

serves one piece at a time, starting with yellowtail<br />

SOONKI KIM // CHEF // “Coffee<br />

Bar K has one of the broadest<br />

single malt selections on the<br />

entire peninsula, in addition to<br />

impeccable drinks, magnifi cent<br />

ambience and spectacular<br />

company. Seoul’s the third city<br />

to get one—the other two are in<br />

Tokyo and Singapore.”<br />

ILLUSTRATIONS BY<br />

ESRA CAROLINE RØISE<br />

PREVIOUS SPREAD: PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW ROWAT (LEFT), TOM ARNE HANSLIEN/ALAMY; THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: BY IMAGESTATE/ALAMY, CHUNG<br />

SUNG-JUN/GETTY IMAGES, FRÉDÉRIC BELGE, ROB KOENEN/GETTY IMAGES


00<br />

MONTH <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

NEXT OF KILN<br />

GET FIRED UP ABOUT<br />

POTTERY AT ICHEON<br />

CERAMICS VILLAGE. //<br />

Korean pottery has a<br />

thousands-year history,<br />

refl ecting shifting dynasties,<br />

religious infl uences and<br />

styles popular in Japan and<br />

China. The two most popular<br />

styles—Goryeo celadon and<br />

Joseon white—are both<br />

produced in Icheon Ceramics<br />

Village, an easy day trip<br />

from Seoul. There are about<br />

300 ceramics producers<br />

here, and you can watch<br />

them in action, throwing<br />

delicately curvy vases and<br />

glazing them with intricate<br />

patterns of red cranes and<br />

lotuses. The designs come<br />

from Buddhist spiritual<br />

traditions, the light colors<br />

from the local clay’s natural<br />

hue. During your tour, you’ll<br />

learn more about all that,<br />

and if you like, even receive<br />

a tutorial on how to make<br />

your own vase or bowl. A<br />

word about making your<br />

own: It will take a couple<br />

of days for creations to be<br />

fi red. Meanwhile, please<br />

try not to act like a bull in a<br />

china shop.<br />

3PD SEOUL<br />

and haddock, and moving on to<br />

octopus and succulent fatty tuna. (A<br />

note on etiquette: Sushi is eaten with<br />

your hands; chopsticks are for the<br />

pickled ginger.) Having consumed<br />

more fi sh than you ever thought<br />

possible, you walk to Cheongdamdong<br />

(6), Seoul’s answer to Rodeo<br />

Drive, where you stop in one of many<br />

designer boutiques and grab a Louis<br />

Vuitton bag before moving on.<br />

Namdaemun (7) is a sprawling<br />

market where you’ll fi nd everything<br />

from Japanese pastries—baked this<br />

morning in Japan—to rows and rows of the stainless steel chopsticks favored in<br />

restaurants around the city. The market is named after the city’s ancient south gate,<br />

which was damaged by fi re in 2008. Stay on the lookout for accessories, tableware<br />

and hanbok (traditional outfi ts consisting of full, high-waisted skirts and short fi tted<br />

jackets for the women, and loose, silky overcoats for the men). Craving a glimpse of<br />

Seoul’s storied youth culture, you head east to Dongdaemun (8), the scene’s epicenter.<br />

The latest hit by “K-pop” music sensation Girls’ Generation blares from hundreds of<br />

TVs as teeny boppers wearing teddy bear hats shop for cartoon cell phone charms.<br />

Pick up a pair of anime-themed knee socks and be on your way.<br />

Before dinner, you ride to the top of N Seoul Tower (9), Seoul’s observatory<br />

high on a hill. Arriving just as the sun is setting, you spend a moment watching<br />

young couples write their names on locks, which they attach to the fence around<br />

the base, cementing their romance. Then you ascend, and Seoul’s vastness<br />

extends before you—376 square miles and 10.2 million people. As you gaze out<br />

at Seoul’s infamously entangled traffi c, you make a decision: You’ll be taking the<br />

subway to dinner.<br />

Hop on the No. 4 line and make the easy transfer to the No. 9. Your destination<br />

is Nonhyeon Samgyetang (10), where you order samgyetang, a traditional chickenginseng<br />

stew. It’s a whole baby bird stuff ed with rice, chestnuts and ginseng in a<br />

delicious savory broth. After a long day, the soup is so soothing you risk falling<br />

asleep in your bowl. Fortunately you’re close to the Ritz. You take note of Seoul’s<br />

stylish set lined up to dance under the laser lightshow inside Club Eden before<br />

passing through the hotel’s palatial lobby and up to your cushy suite. You climb<br />

ALL THAT GLITTERS Shopping in Insadong; above, traditional dumpling-making in Insadong<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHOTOGRAPHS BY LPI/NEWSCOM, FRÉDÉRIC BELGE (2), ART DIRECTORS & TRIP/ALAMY, ALAIN EVRARD/ROBERT HARDING, ANDREW ROWAT, PHOTOLIBRARY


HIGH LIFE Clockwise:<br />

N Seoul Tower; a visitor<br />

takes a snapshot; the<br />

amusement park at Lotte<br />

World; children at the<br />

Lotus Lantern Festival


88<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

IN A PICKLE // SOUTH<br />

KOREA’S NATIONAL<br />

DISH, KIMCHI, REACHES<br />

FAR BEYOND THE CABBAGE<br />

PATCH. // The beloved spicy<br />

pickled cabbage most of the<br />

world knows as kimchi is to<br />

Koreans only one variety of<br />

the dish. Often made with<br />

radishes or cucumbers,<br />

it can be mild, sweet or<br />

eye-wateringly spicy.<br />

Sometimes it's fl avored<br />

with fi sh, too. Visitors are<br />

encouraged to try as many<br />

types as possible, which<br />

shouldn't be diffi cult, as it's<br />

served at every meal.<br />

It’s hard to overstate the<br />

importance of kimchi to<br />

Korean culture: Not only did<br />

the fi rst Korean astronaut<br />

bring some along on his trip,<br />

but one of the most coveted<br />

household appliances is the<br />

kimchi refrigerator, which<br />

has special controls for<br />

different stages of pickling.<br />

If all that’s not enough<br />

to satisfy your kimchi<br />

appetite, visit the<br />

Kimchi Field Museum<br />

(kimchimuseum.co.kr) for<br />

a look at everything from<br />

the massive ceramic crocks<br />

in which the dish was<br />

traditionally made to the<br />

lactic acid bacteria (under<br />

a microscope, of course)<br />

that spark the fermentation<br />

process.<br />

WARRIOR POSE Admiral Yi Sun Shin overlooks Gwanghwamun Plaza; opposite,<br />

Cheonggyecheon Stream<br />

under the fl uff y comforter and fl ip on the fl atscreen in the bedroom, but you’re<br />

asleep before you even notice what’s on.<br />

DAY 2 Fully rested, you sample a traditional Korean breakfast of abalone<br />

2 porridge at the buff et in The Garden on the Ritz-Carlton’s ground fl oor (if that<br />

sounds too adventurous for this hour, Western fare is also on hand). Your fi rst<br />

stop today is Changdeokgung Palace (1). Originally built in 1405, over the centuries<br />

it housed various Joseon Dynasty kings. What with its airy cabin suspended over<br />

a lotus pond and colorful, intricate fl ower motifs painted on all the buildings, you<br />

wouldn’t mind spending a couple hundred years here either. The hour-and-a-half<br />

tour is compulsory but worthwhile. Your guide is endearing, especially when<br />

advising you to walk through the king’s doorway because it’s of normal height.<br />

The others are shorter so that his men had to bow as they entered.<br />

Ready for more of traditional Seoul, you walk to Insadong (2), a shopping<br />

district that specializes in celadon pottery, custom calligraphy stamps and some of<br />

the most pleasant incense you’ve ever encountered. For a hearty traditional meal,<br />

you venture off the main drag into one of the winding alleys and land at Nui Jo (3).<br />

Remove your shoes, have a seat on the fl oor and order the smallest of the prix-fi xe<br />

meals. The appetizers—mild kimchi and melt-in-your-mouth roasted pork—are<br />

delicious, but pace yourself, because the main course, a savory rice pudding<br />

with mushrooms and chestnuts, is still to come, along with more kimchi, steamed<br />

spinach and anchovies with chili paste.<br />

Your next activity—a stroll along<br />

Cheonggyecheon Stream (4)—is fast becoming<br />

another of Seoul’s great traditions, and<br />

families line the paths. Eventually, you<br />

emerge near Gwanghwamun Plaza (5), in<br />

front of Gyeongbokgung Palace. Take a quick<br />

gander at the new statue of King Sejong<br />

before moving on to take in the art scene.<br />

It’s a short walk to the gallery district<br />

Bukchon Village (6). Ducking in and out<br />

of exhibition spaces, you browse paintings<br />

by local artists before hailing a cab to<br />

Cho-won (7) to dine on some globefi sh, also<br />

known as blowfi sh. This infamous Japanese<br />

fare is easy to fi nd in South Korea, so the chefs<br />

have enough experience preparing it that they<br />

deftly avoid the poisonous part. Surprisingly<br />

delicate, the blowfi sh is fi rst served shabushabu-style,<br />

then in deep-fried chunks.<br />

Having survived dinner, you cab it back to<br />

SUENGHOON KIM // CELLULAR<br />

DEVICE ENGINEER // “If I’m<br />

looking to go to a club, it’s got<br />

to be Club Eden. Seoul barely<br />

had a nightclub scene before,<br />

but since Eden opened, others<br />

have been striving to replicate<br />

it. None have so far, though.”<br />

FROM LEFT: PHOTOGRAPHS BY JTB PHOTO/PHOTOLIBRARY, PETER SCHICKERT/ALAMY, ANDREW ROWAT


90<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

GOING THE DISTANCE Clockwise<br />

from above, a runner at the<br />

Olympic Park; an Insadong<br />

alleyway; and Lotte World’s<br />

carousel<br />

Boarding pass<br />

Let United be your<br />

gateway to the capital<br />

of an ancient land.<br />

Stretch your legs in<br />

our lie-fl at seats while<br />

you prepare to explore<br />

a city that has one<br />

foot in the past and<br />

another in the future.<br />

swanky Cheongdam-dong, where the sidewalks are thick with fashionistas hitting the wine<br />

and sake bars. You stop in at The Foot Shop (8) for a foot massage. It’s preceded by a “fi sh<br />

pedicure,” which entails dipping your feet into a small, cold tub and letting tiny carp nibble<br />

off the dead skin. Then the masseuse calls you in, putting an end to the ticklish proceedings,<br />

and gets down to business. Though you make good use of the phrase “apayo,” which means<br />

“It’s painful,” the massage does the trick, and back at the Ritz-Carlton, you’re feeling<br />

especially relaxed, so you stop in at the bar and sip a Soju-based cocktail as a live jazz trio<br />

unwinds some bebop. Soon, though, that fl uff y king-size bed calls your name.<br />

DAY 3 A cup of coff ee or tea is lovely, but on some mornings only a roller coaster will do.<br />

3 Take a cab past the looming Olympic Stadium (1), built for Seoul’s 1988 Summer Games.<br />

A mile and a half farther along, you arrive at Lotte World (2), a massive complex housing a<br />

shopping mall, the Lotte World Folk Museum, an ice-skating rink and an indoor amusement<br />

park—one of the largest in the world. Start in the department store basement for a red bean<br />

pastry, then head upstairs to the roller coaster, which is for some reason named the French<br />

Revolution. Vive la France! you think, before making your way to more steady ground.<br />

Get on the No. 2 subway to COEX (3), a megaplex featuring an outsize aquarium, as well as a<br />

shopping mall brimming, like so many malls the world over, with boisterous teens. You have<br />

LPI/NEWSCOM<br />

a gander at the electronics and the stylish, well-priced clothes, and stop in at Kraze Burger, a<br />

diner-themed stand that gives a local twist with a curry-<br />

BELGE,<br />

fl avored barbecue sauce. It <strong>may</strong> seem odd, but you can’t<br />

get enough.<br />

Ready for some fresh air, you head to the nearby<br />

FRÉDÉRIC<br />

Bongeunsa (4) complex of Buddhist temples. You wander<br />

among them, stopping into Bookgeukbojeon, where<br />

believers pray for miracles. Doffi ng your shoes, you<br />

take a seat and ask for one of your own. On your way<br />

out, have a look at Mireukdaebul, a 75-foot statue of the<br />

Buddha. Ten thousand followers worked for 10 years<br />

VERIN/PHOTOLIBRARY,<br />

to build the fi gure. Gazing up at it, you’re thankful to<br />

MARC<br />

all 10,000 of them for helping create such peace in the<br />

BY<br />

midst of this metropolis.<br />

You carry that feeling of serenity with you to the<br />

InterContinental Grand Seoul (5) for dinner at Table 34, MARGARET WHITTUM //<br />

where you make your way through three courses of<br />

ACTOR, DIRECTOR, PRODUCER<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS<br />

French food. Back at your own hotel, you decide at the<br />

FOR SEOUL PLAYERS // “My<br />

favorite thing to do is<br />

last minute to join the crowd at Club Eden. Sipping<br />

walk on the banks of the<br />

BOTTOM:<br />

a domestic Hite beer and watching the youth in their<br />

Cheonggyecheon Stream at<br />

fi nest evening wear, you think Seoul’s in good hands.<br />

night. It always has some<br />

FROM<br />

beautiful light installations<br />

on display. Summer or<br />

Senior editor LAYLA SCHLACK has the most charm-bedecked cell winter, it’s lovely and<br />

phone of all the Hemispheres staff . peaceful.”<br />

CLOCKWISE


MAP ILLUTRATIONS BY STEVE STANKIEWICZ<br />

Seoul<br />

SOUTH KOREA<br />

4<br />

5<br />

3<br />

5<br />

2<br />

3<br />

7<br />

6<br />

9<br />

4<br />

1<br />

8<br />

1<br />

7<br />

10<br />

2<br />

6<br />

8<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

DAY ONE<br />

(1) Take Urban café 200-7 Nonhyun-dong, Gangnam-gu (2) The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul 602 Yeoksam-dong,<br />

Gangnam-gu (3) National Cemetery Dongjak-dong (4) Yongsan Electronics Market<br />

Near Yongsan train station (5) Sushi Hyo 1F 21-16 YuHyun B/D Chundamdong<br />

(6) Cheongdam-dong (7) Namdaemun Market Next to Namdaemun Gate<br />

(8) Dongdaemun In Jongno-gu (9) N Seoul Tower Yongsan-dong 2 (i)-ga San 1-3, Yongsan-gu<br />

(10) Nonhyeon Samgyetang 106 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu<br />

DAY TWO<br />

(1) Changdeokgung Palace 2-71 Waryong-dong, Jongno-gu<br />

(2) Insadong Insadong-gil (3) Nui Jo Near Insadong (4) Cheonggyecheon Stream<br />

(5) Gwanghwamun Plaza In front of Gwanghwamun gate (6) Bukchon Village Between Gyeongbok<br />

Palace and Changdeok Palace (7) Cho-won Gangnam-gu (8) The Foot Shop Cheongdam-dong<br />

DAY THREE<br />

(1) Olympic Stadium 10 Jamsil-dong (2) Lotte World 40-1 Jamsil-dong, Songpa-gu<br />

(3) COEX 159 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu (4) Bongeunsa Samseong-dong 73, Gangnam-gu<br />

(5) InterContinental Grand Seoul 521 Teheranno, Gangnam-gu<br />

1 2<br />

91


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HEMISPHERES PROMOTION l MAY <strong>2010</strong>


Outdoor Living<br />

HEMISPHERES PROMOTION l MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

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HEMISPHERES PROMOTION l MAY <strong>2010</strong>


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HEMISPHERES PROMOTION l MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

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Snorkel Hot Tubs<br />

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ENTERTAINMENT<br />

110 Films & Television<br />

117 Audio Programming<br />

132 Crossword<br />

134 Sudoku<br />

Watch Morgan Freeman<br />

channel Nelson Mandela<br />

in Invictus.<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

PLAY<br />

INFORMATION<br />

120 United Destinations<br />

124 Terminal Diagrams<br />

129 Alliances & Partnerships<br />

130 Customs & Immigration<br />

139 Food & Beverages


NORTH<br />

AMERICA<br />

HAWAII<br />

FILM<br />

& TELEVISION<br />

FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on fl ights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft fl ights.<br />

Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas<br />

domesticas en el canal 10.<br />

MEXICO<br />

& CARIBBEAN<br />

FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION<br />

MAY 1-15<br />

Leap Year<br />

MAY 16-31<br />

The Last Station<br />

FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION<br />

MAY 1-15<br />

The Last Station<br />

APRIL 16-30<br />

Leap Year<br />

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MAY 1-15<br />

Extraordinary Measures<br />

MAY 16-31<br />

Invictus<br />

EASTBOUND<br />

MAY 1-15<br />

The Big Bang Theory [T]<br />

Oceans [T]<br />

Man V. Food<br />

MAY 16-31<br />

The Offi ce [T]<br />

History in HD<br />

The Middle [T]<br />

MAY 1-15<br />

The Offi ce [T]<br />

History in HD<br />

The Middle [T]<br />

MAY 16-31<br />

The Big Bang Theory [T]<br />

Oceans [T]<br />

Man V. Food<br />

MAY 1-15<br />

Two and a Half Men [T]<br />

The Good Wife [T]<br />

The Big Bang Theory [T]<br />

Frasier TELEVISION [T]<br />

MAY 16-31<br />

The Offi ce [T]<br />

Brothers and Sisters [T]<br />

Mythbusters<br />

Arrested Development [T]<br />

MAY 1-15<br />

Extraordinary Measures<br />

MAY 16-31<br />

Invictus<br />

MAY 1-15<br />

Invictus<br />

MAY 16-31<br />

Extraordinary Measures<br />

Both films available on flights<br />

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii<br />

MAY 1-15<br />

Leap Year<br />

MAY 16-31<br />

The Last Station<br />

WESTBOUND<br />

MAY 1-15<br />

30 Rock [T]<br />

South Pacifi c [T]<br />

Everybody Loves Raymond [T]<br />

MAY 16-31<br />

Two and a Half Men [T]<br />

Life [T]<br />

Arrested Development [T]<br />

MAY 1-15<br />

Two and a Half Men [T]<br />

Life [T]<br />

Arrested Development [T]<br />

MAY 16-31<br />

30 Rock [T]<br />

South Pacifi c [T]<br />

Everybody Loves Raymond [T]<br />

FILM SOUTHBOUND TELEVISION FILM NORTHBOUND TELEVISION<br />

MAY 1-15<br />

30 Rock [T]<br />

Life Unexpected [T]<br />

Man V. Food<br />

Everybody Loves Raymond [T]<br />

MAY 16-31<br />

The Middle [T]<br />

Chuck [T]<br />

Man V. Food<br />

Friends [T]<br />

FROM RUSSIA, WITH LOVE<br />

“TOLSTOY’S NOT REALLY thought of as a fun character,” says Oscarnominated<br />

actor Christopher Plummer of his role in The Last<br />

Station. “But I wanted to give him as much humanity and humor as<br />

I could. If you have a lot of humanity, I think you also must have a<br />

great sense of humor to go with it. So [director] Michael Hoff man<br />

and I found some scenes to make it fun.” They also set some ground<br />

rules for bringing the world of Tolstoy to life: The actors spoke in<br />

their natural voices, he explains, to give the fi lm an untranslated<br />

feel. And it worked. Plummer recalls an interview with a Russian<br />

journalist who told him that he “felt the fi lm was in Russian...That’s<br />

the way to do a foreign language fi lm!”—Matt Thompson


MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE.<br />

However, customer discretion is still advised.<br />

Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our<br />

customers in choosing whether to view a fi lm.<br />

LEAP YEAR<br />

“Delightfully funny! A charming love story. Chemistry galore!”—ABC-TV<br />

1 hr.<br />

39 min.<br />

Amy Adams stars in this comedy about a woman scheming to propose to her<br />

boyfriend on Leap Day, per Irish tradition. She faces a setback when she needs<br />

the help of an attractive innkeeper to get her to her boyfriend. After that, the<br />

surprises keep coming.<br />

FEATURING Amy Adams, Matthew Goode, Adam Scott<br />

DIRECTED BY Anand Tucker<br />

THE LAST STATION<br />

“Well-acted across the board, but the fi lm’s centerpiece is the spectacular back and<br />

forth between Christopher Plummer...and Helen Mirren.”—Los Angeles Times<br />

After almost 50 years of marriage, the Countess Sofya, Leo Tolstoy’s wife and<br />

muse, suddenly fi nds her world turned upside down. In the name of his newfound<br />

religion, the Russian novelist has renounced his title, property and family in favor<br />

of poverty. A tale of two romances, one beginning, one ending, The Last Station is<br />

a story about the diffi culty of love and the impossibility of living without it.<br />

FEATURING Helen Mirren, Christopher Plummer, James McAvoy<br />

DIRECTED BY Michael Hoffman<br />

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own<br />

video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long<br />

as they are able to show the programming has an<br />

MPAA rating of “R” or less.<br />

1 hr.<br />

52 min.<br />

(S) Spanish<br />

(G) German<br />

(C) Chinese<br />

(J) Japanese<br />

EXTRAORDINARY MEASURES<br />

[V] Violence<br />

[S] Sexual Situations<br />

[T] Adult Themes<br />

1 hr.<br />

45 min.<br />

“The fi lm can’t help but grip the heart and imagination, especially when the<br />

camera is trained on the two adorable, plucky children whose life-and-death<br />

struggles propel the plot.”—The Washington Post<br />

John Crowley walks away from a successful career when his two youngest<br />

children are diagnosed with a fatal disease. With his wife, Aileen, by his side,<br />

Crowley teams up with a brilliant, unconventional scientist to form a company<br />

focused on developing a life-saving drug.<br />

FEATURING Brendan Fraser, Harrison Ford<br />

DIRECTED BY Tom Vaughan<br />

INVICTUS<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

111<br />

“[Clint] Eastwood’s achievement is something rare. Invictus reveals a master at<br />

the top of his game.”—Rolling Stone<br />

2 hrs.<br />

9 min.<br />

The fi lm tells the story of how Nelson Mandela joined forces with the captain of<br />

South Africa’s rugby team, Francois Pienaar. Believing he can bring his people<br />

together through sports, Mandela rallies the underdog team as it makes a run to<br />

the 1995 World Cup championship.<br />

FEATURING Morgan Freeman, Matt Damon, Scott Eastwood<br />

DIRECTED BY Clint Eastwood


FILM<br />

& TELEVISION<br />

TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS<br />

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.<br />

LIVE LAUGH LEARN<br />

MAN V. FOOD<br />

Foodie Adam Richman travels the U.S. tasting<br />

different cities’ signature dishes and tackling eating<br />

challenges. In Los Angeles, he samples a french dip<br />

and chows down on roasted pork tortillas before<br />

facing the Special Number 2, a spicy ramen made<br />

with 10 chilies.<br />

PLAY ON JOHN<br />

John Cohen’s infl uence is felt throughout American<br />

folk music. Cohen is also a painter, documentary<br />

fi lmmaker, teacher and photographer. This is the story<br />

of his amazing body of work, featuring rare footage<br />

of Bob Dylan and interviews with Pete Seeger. Only<br />

showing on p.s. fl ights from Los Angeles and San<br />

Francisco to New York’s JFK Airport.<br />

EVERYBODY LOVES<br />

RAYMOND<br />

Relive the hit sitcom in which sportswriter Ray<br />

Romano and his wife, Debra, live across the street<br />

from Ray’s parents—the cantankerous Frank and<br />

nosy Marie. In this episode, Frank wants to pal<br />

around with Ray—immediately arousing suspicion<br />

and discomfort.<br />

THE OFFICE<br />

Paper sales are more fun than you might have<br />

imagined with the crew at Dunder-Miffl in. Led<br />

by goofball Michael Scott, the company weathers<br />

tough times, while romance blossoms between<br />

employees Jim Halpert and Pam Beasley. In this<br />

episode, an investment banker visits the Scranton,<br />

Pennsylvania, offi ce, putting everyone on edge.<br />

GET IN TOUCH<br />

Like to plan ahead and know what’s playing before your<br />

flight? Text “MOVIE” to 75309 and you’ll get a reply with<br />

the current movies that are playing. If you really like to<br />

plan ahead, text “NEXT MOVIE” for next month’s movies.<br />

What do you think of our programming? We’re open to<br />

suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit<br />

united.com/play.<br />

OCEANS [T]<br />

In just one corner of the Atlantic, there’s crucial<br />

evidence of our oceans’ past and clues about their<br />

future. Paul Rose, Philippe Cousteau Jr., Dr. Lucy Blue<br />

and Tooni Mahto base themselves in the Bahamas.<br />

In one of its most dangerous dives, the team enters<br />

a black hole to discover what our oceans looked like<br />

350 million years ago.<br />

LIFE [T]<br />

Witness the extraordinary things animals do to<br />

survive—such as hippos launching from the water<br />

into the air and chameleons stealing prey from a<br />

spider’s web. Sprint with cheetahs as they band<br />

together to tackle ostriches; watch dolphins form<br />

perfect rings of silt to trap fi sh; and swim with a seal<br />

escaping killer whales off Antarctica.<br />

YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE GUID I E TO MOVIES, M MMOV<br />

OV O IES, TV SHOWS, MUSIC AND PREMIUM PREMIU SEAT COMFORT ABOARD UNITED<br />

MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

PLAY<br />

THE DOCTOR IS IN<br />

Christopher Plummer talks about his<br />

Imaginarium and being Leo Tolstoy.<br />

Play_0510_p01_Cover.indd 1 25/03/<strong>2010</strong> 12:21<br />

IF YOUR AIRCRAFT<br />

IS EQUIPPED<br />

with in-seat video,<br />

refer to the separate<br />

Play guide located in<br />

your seat pocket.


Let United PassPlus ®<br />

point your<br />

business in the right direction.<br />

Participating airline partners include:<br />

Business can take you anywhere<br />

at a moment’s notice, so it’s important<br />

to exercise control over your travel.<br />

United PassPlus is a pre-paid travel<br />

program that entitles frequent<br />

travelers and businesses to:<br />

<br />

<br />

booking flights<br />

®<br />

access<br />

<br />

®<br />

elite memberships,<br />

and more<br />

Wherever you venture on business,<br />

United PassPlus can make your travels<br />

more affordable and rewarding.<br />

To learn more or to sign up,<br />

visit united.com/passplus.<br />

©<strong>2010</strong> United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.


CRAZY HEART<br />

An alcoholic country music singer is able to get<br />

his life and career back on track through his<br />

relationship with a female reporter, and he becomes<br />

a mentor to a contemporary country star at the peak<br />

of his career.<br />

FEATURING Jeff Bridges, Colin Farrell,<br />

Maggie Gyllenhaal<br />

DIRECTED BY Scott Cooper<br />

ME AND ORSON<br />

WELLES<br />

1 hr.<br />

52 min.<br />

1 hr.<br />

54 min.<br />

Based on real theatrical history, Me and Orson Welles<br />

is a romantic coming-of-age story about a teenage<br />

actor who lucks into a role in Julius Caesar as it’s<br />

being reimagined by a brilliant, impetuous young<br />

director named Orson Welles at his newly founded<br />

Mercury Theater in 1937 New York.<br />

FEATURING Christian McKay, Claire Danes, Zac Efron<br />

DIRECTED BY Kirk Jones<br />

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th<br />

of each month. As a result, please understand if your<br />

fl ight features a different line up before and after the<br />

start of each month.<br />

THE YOUNG VICTORIA<br />

1 hr.<br />

45 min.<br />

It’s 1837, and Victoria is the object of a royal<br />

power struggle. Her uncle, King William, is dying,<br />

and Victoria is in line for the throne. Everyone<br />

around Victoria—her mother, her adviser and her<br />

governess—smothers the queen-to-be and keeps her<br />

out of court. The fi lm follows her as she takes the<br />

throne, learns which advisers to trust and develops<br />

her famous romance with Prince Albert.<br />

FEATURING Emily Blunt, Rupert Friend, Paul Bettany<br />

DIRECTED BY Jean-Marc Vallee<br />

DID YOU HEAR ABOUT<br />

THE MORGANS?<br />

1 hr.<br />

43 min.<br />

Manhattan couple Meryl and Paul Morgan’s almost<br />

perfect lives have only one failure: their dissolving<br />

marriage. When the couple witnesses a murder, the Feds<br />

whisk them away to Wyoming. In their new BlackBerryfree<br />

lives, can the Morgans rekindle the passion?<br />

FEATURING Hugh Grant, Sarah Jessica Parker,<br />

Sam Elliott<br />

DIRECTED BY Marc Lawrence<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

(S) Spanish<br />

(G) German<br />

(C) Chinese<br />

(J) Japanese<br />

THE BLIND SIDE [T]<br />

2 hrs.<br />

4 min.<br />

The Blind Side depicts the true story of Michael Oher,<br />

a homeless youngster taken in by the Tuohys, a wellto-do<br />

family. Oher’s presence in the Tuohy’s lives<br />

leads them to some insightful self-discoveries, and<br />

Oher goes on to become an All-American offensive<br />

left tackle.<br />

FEATURING Sandra Bullock, Tim McGraw, Kathy Bates<br />

DIRECTED BY John Lee Hancock<br />

UP IN THE AIR<br />

[V] Violence<br />

[S] Sexual Situations<br />

[T] Adult Themes<br />

1 hr.<br />

49 min.<br />

Ryan Bingham is a corporate downsizing expert<br />

whose cherished life on the road is threatened just<br />

as he is on the cusp of reaching 10 million frequent<br />

fl yer miles and just after he’s met the frequenttraveler<br />

woman of his dreams.<br />

FEATURING George Clooney, Jason Bateman,<br />

Vera Farmiga<br />

DIRECTED BY Jason Reitman<br />

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT/PERSONAL DEVICES<br />

United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following in regard to the use of electronic equipment/personal devices onboard its<br />

aircraft. However, the following is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations. Certain electronic devices <strong>may</strong> not be used on our planes for safety reasons. Such devices <strong>may</strong> cause<br />

electromagnetic interference with cockpit navigation or communications systems during ground operations and while the aircraft is fl ying below 10,000 feet. However, when an aircraft is traveling above<br />

10,000 feet (normally about 10 minutes after takeoff), passengers can use many of the devices listed. Hearing aids, heart pacemakers and watches are acceptable at all times.<br />

These electronic devices can be used in the cabin, but <strong>may</strong> not be used during takeoff and landing: Calculators; handheld computer games; shavers; portable CD and tape players; laptop computers/<br />

accessory printers/tape drives; portable VCRs/video players<br />

These electronic devices cannot be used on the airplane at any time: Cellular phones (cellular phones <strong>may</strong>be used on the plane at the gate before the aircraft door is closed or at captain’s discretion when<br />

the plane is away from the gate and on the ground); televisions; AM/FM transmitters-receivers; remote-controlled toys<br />

In addition, United Airlines has an onboard photography and video policy. Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard <strong>may</strong> only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling<br />

headsets <strong>may</strong> be activated. The use of still and video cameras, fi lm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However,<br />

photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft<br />

equipment, or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (motion or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to<br />

the extent specifi cally permitted by United Airlines. UAL Corporation October 2009.<br />

115


HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

HOW UNITED MOBILE<br />

CHECK-IN WORKS.<br />

1. Go to mobile.united.com<br />

2. Select the “Check-in” option.<br />

3. Check in for your flight.<br />

BOARDING PASS QR CODE<br />

HOW UNITED<br />

MOBILE BOARDING<br />

PASS WORKS.<br />

1. Enter your email address.<br />

2. Receive your mobile<br />

boarding pass.<br />

3. Scan pass at security<br />

checkpoint and gate.<br />

BOARDING PASS QR CODE<br />

mobile<br />

Introducing United<br />

mobile check-in and<br />

mobile boarding pass.<br />

Now you can check in on the go, and have your<br />

boarding pass sent directly to your phone.<br />

WIRELESS CHECK-IN<br />

Enjoy the convenience of using your mobile device to check in for<br />

your flight. To check in on your phone, go to mobile.united.com and<br />

select “Check-in” from the list of options. You can use your Mileage<br />

Plus® number, your email address, your confirmation number or your<br />

E-ticket® number to bring up your reservation. From there you can<br />

check in, request upgrades, and purchase Travel Options for your flight.<br />

It’s like having a check-in kiosk in the palm of your hand. To learn<br />

more about United mobile check-in visit united.com/mobileservices.<br />

PAPERLESS BOARDING PASS<br />

On qualifying flights within the U.S., you can now get your boarding<br />

pass on your mobile device. If mobile boarding pass is available<br />

for your flight, you’ll be prompted to enter your email address so<br />

we can send it to your phone. You’ll receive a link you can click on<br />

to display your boarding pass on the screen of your mobile device.<br />

You’ll be asked to scan your phone at the security checkpoint, and<br />

at the gate to board your flight. It’s an easier way to get through<br />

the airport. To learn more about United mobile boarding pass, and<br />

for a list of eligible airports, visit united.com/mobileservices.


AUDIO<br />

PROGRAMMING<br />

CH.<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

9<br />

10<br />

11<br />

12<br />

13<br />

14<br />

15<br />

16<br />

17<br />

18<br />

19<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive<br />

music channels for your infl ight enjoyment. Find your aircraft<br />

model on the grid below and review the selections on the<br />

channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.<br />

777 2-CABIN A319 & A320 SELECT A320 747 757 & 767 2-CABIN<br />

MOVIE<br />

English<br />

Top 20 Hits<br />

’70s Hits<br />

Adult Contemporary Hits<br />

Children’s Programming<br />

From the Flight Deck<br />

MOVIE<br />

Dubbed<br />

MOVIE<br />

Dubbed<br />

Classic Rock Adult Contemporary Hits<br />

Classic Rock<br />

MOVIE<br />

English<br />

MOVIE<br />

Dubbed<br />

MOVIE<br />

Dubbed<br />

Adult Contemporary Hits<br />

From the Flight Deck<br />

New Age New Age<br />

New Alternative<br />

MOVIE<br />

English<br />

Top 20 Hits<br />

’70s Hits<br />

Children’s Programming<br />

Adult Album Rock ’70s Hits<br />

Adult Album Rock<br />

’70s Hits<br />

Children’s Programming<br />

MOVIE<br />

English<br />

Top 20 Hits<br />

Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits<br />

Modern Adult Hits<br />

Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops ’60s Hits<br />

Classical Pops<br />

’60s Hits ’60s Hits<br />

’60s Hits<br />

New Country Hits<br />

Blues<br />

Unavailable<br />

Unavailable<br />

Unavailable<br />

From the Flight Deck<br />

MOVIE<br />

English<br />

Top 20 Hits<br />

Adult Contemporary Hits<br />

From the Flight Deck<br />

’80s Hits Children’s Programming<br />

’80s Hits<br />

Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz<br />

Classic Soul<br />

Today’s R&B Hits<br />

New Country Hits<br />

Smooth Jazz<br />

New Country Hits<br />

Modern Adult Hits<br />

New Country Hits<br />

Classical Pops<br />

Top 20 Hits<br />

Smooth Jazz<br />

FROM THE FLIGHT DECK<br />

’60s Hits<br />

’70s Hits<br />

Adult Contemporary Hits<br />

Children’s Programming<br />

From the<br />

Flight Deck Smooth Jazz<br />

Live communication between<br />

the fl ight deck and FAA air-traffi c<br />

control is offered. As you listen,<br />

your fl ight will be identifi ed by its<br />

fl ight number. This feature is unique to United and<br />

<strong>may</strong> not be available on all fl ights. Available at your<br />

captain’s discretion.<br />

117


AUDIO<br />

PROGRAMMING<br />

CHANNELS & ARTISTS<br />

SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors<br />

plays the best contemporary<br />

jazz instrumentals, classic<br />

and new, blended with<br />

just the right vocals. It’s<br />

contemporary crossover<br />

that’s always cool.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George<br />

Benson, Sade, George Duke<br />

CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is<br />

a celebration of the Motown,<br />

Stax and Atlantic record<br />

labels—vintage soul and<br />

classic R&B from the 1960s<br />

and ’70s.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

James Brown, The Four Tops,<br />

Aretha Franklin, The<br />

Supremes<br />

CLASSIC ROCK Hold your<br />

lighters in the air. It’s all<br />

classic rock of the ’60s and<br />

’70s, when music came on<br />

LPs. Drop the needle on<br />

Classic Vinyl.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Creedence Clearwater<br />

Revival, The Beatles, Pink<br />

Floyd, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad<br />

Company, Rolling Stones<br />

ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS<br />

The Blend is the soundtrack<br />

of your life—a great mix of<br />

Lite pop hits from the ’70s<br />

through today; never any rap<br />

or rock.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Rod Stewart, Billy Joel,<br />

Madonna, Eric Clapton<br />

BLUES From the Delta,<br />

Chicago, New Orleans and<br />

more, B.B. King’s Bluesville<br />

covers more than 80 years<br />

of authentic blues.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta<br />

James, Muddy Waters<br />

NEW COUNTRY HITS The<br />

Highway plays the very<br />

latest New Country, along<br />

with the biggest hits of<br />

the past few years.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Kenny Chesney, Taylor<br />

Swift, Carrie Underwood,<br />

Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts,<br />

Sugarland, Tim McGraw<br />

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING<br />

Kids Place Live features<br />

award-winning original<br />

content blended with a music<br />

mix of the most popular kids’<br />

movie and TV soundtracks,<br />

plus Children’s Programming’s<br />

recording artists.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan<br />

Zanes, They Might Be Giants<br />

TODAY’S R&B HITS<br />

R&B Hits from the ‘80s, ‘90s<br />

and today. Sounds that reach<br />

your Heart & Soul.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Mary J. Blige, Alicia Keys,<br />

Charlie Wilson, Jill Scott,<br />

Maxwell<br />

ADULT ALBUM ROCK New<br />

music and classic tracks from<br />

artists who’ve stood the test<br />

of time, plus quality rock<br />

from credible new artists.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

U2, Dave Matthews Band,<br />

Neil Young, Coldplay<br />

NEW AGE Spa is a place of<br />

peace in a sometimes crazy<br />

world. It’s a beautiful place<br />

where you are soothed by<br />

dreamy, fl owing music.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Enya, Brian Eno, Tangerine<br />

Dream, Kevin Braheny,<br />

Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani<br />

’60S HITS The times they<br />

were a-changin’, and so<br />

was the music. ’60s on 6<br />

revisits the British invasion<br />

and Woodstock with DJ<br />

Cousin Brucie.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

The Beatles, Beach Boys,<br />

Bob Dylan<br />

NEW ALTERNATIVE The latest<br />

alternative rock, best of<br />

the ’90s and the next big<br />

thing before it becomes so<br />

big you can’t stand it.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Weezer, The Raconteurs,<br />

The Bravery, Foo Fighters,<br />

Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy<br />

Eat World<br />

MODERN ADULT HITS It’s the<br />

’90s and now! Hear today’s<br />

pop hits from artists<br />

like Matchbox 20, Alanis<br />

Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly<br />

Clarkson and John Mayer.<br />

Feel the Pulse of adult pop!<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Daughtry, No Doubt, Colbie<br />

Caillat, Plain White T’s<br />

’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you<br />

back to the days of bell bottoms<br />

and pet rocks, when the music<br />

was wider than ever—from<br />

singer-songwriters and classic<br />

rock to R&B and disco.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Elton John, Donna Summer, The<br />

Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac<br />

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music<br />

channels for your infl ight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on page<br />

118 and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth<br />

listening to is now on XM.<br />

TOP 20 HITS Top 20 on 20<br />

plays just the songs you vote<br />

for. Cast your vote anytime<br />

at 20on20.<br />

xmradio.com; then plug in<br />

and hear what’s hot.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Black Eyed Peas, Taylor<br />

Swift, Lady Gaga, Beyoncé,<br />

Fall Out Boy<br />

CLASSICAL POPS Listen to<br />

classical music’s greatest<br />

hits and famous movie<br />

music, performed by renowned<br />

orchestras and soloists,<br />

on SIRIUS XM Pops.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Boston Pops, Cincinnati<br />

Pops, Andrea Bocelli, James<br />

Galway, Joshua Bell, John<br />

Philip Sousa<br />

’80S HITS “Totally awesome”<br />

’80s on 8 sounds like one of<br />

the great Top 40 stations of<br />

the time, with rock, rhythm<br />

and pop—plus hair bands<br />

and the original MTV VJs.<br />

WHO YOU’LL HEAR<br />

Michael Jackson, Duran<br />

Duran, Cyndi Lauper, Prince,<br />

George Michael


Get commercial-free music, live sports, news and<br />

exclusive entertainment through your existing<br />

vehicle radio with easy Do-It-Yourself installation.<br />

MUSIC · SPORTS · TALK · NEWS · ENTERTAINMENT<br />

EVERYTHING WORTH LISTENING TO IS ON<br />

EARN<br />

4,000 MILES<br />

United Mileage Plus members can enjoy all of<br />

our exclusive entertainment anywhere and earn<br />

4,000 bonus United Mileage Plus miles.*<br />

Visit www.xmradio.com/ua for full details.<br />

*OFFER DETAILS: To qualify for Mileage Plus miles on eligible radios, you must buy a prepaid recurring minimum Quarterly subscription plan to any XM Package (excluding A La Carte, Mostly Music, and News, Talk & Sports), together with the<br />

eligible radio by 5/31/10. You must activate your XM subscription on that radio no later than 5/31/10 with a valid credit card; pay an activation fee of $14.99 and any other fees and taxes that will apply to your subscription, maintain at least 12<br />

months of continuous service, and retain that credit card on the account for automatic recurring service billing. Failure to maintain 12 months of continuous “minimum service commitment” for each radio will result in a $75 early cancellation<br />

fee per radio. Service will automatically renew for additional periods of the same length as the Plan you choose, at the then current renewal rate unless you cancel. Hardware sold separately. This offer <strong>may</strong> be modifi ed or terminated at any time.<br />

Pricing, programming, schedule, and channel assignments are subject to change. Check xmradio.com for the latest updates. Subscription governed by XM Customer Agreement available at xmradio.com, except that terms regarding<br />

an early termination fee for this offer shall supersede. SIRIUS|XM U.S. Satellite Service available only to those at least 18 years of age in the 48 contiguous USA and DC, with SIRIUS also available in PR (with coverage limitations).<br />

Allow 6-8 weeks after purchase for miles to be posted to member’s account. Miles accrued and awards issued are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus program. United, its subsidiaries, affi liates and agents are not responsible for<br />

any products and services of other participating companies and partners. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United and Mileage Plus are registered service marks. For complete details about the<br />

Mileage Plus program, visit united.com.<br />

© <strong>2010</strong> SIRIUS XM Radio Inc. SIRIUS, XM and all related marks and logos are trademarks of SIRIUS XM Radio Inc. and its subsidiaries. Apple, iPhone, iPod and iPod touch are registered trademarks of Apple Inc. All other marks, channel names<br />

and logos are the property of their respective owners. All rights reserved.<br />

29190


ROUTE MAPS<br />

NORTH AMERICAN CITIES<br />

United/United Express Route Cities served by United and<br />

Time zone boundary<br />

United Express<br />

UNITED HUB<br />

Cities served by Star Alliance<br />

or partner Code Share<br />

<br />

<br />

Anchorage<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Honolulu<br />

Kapalua<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Vancouver<br />

<br />

Victoria<br />

Seattle<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Calgary<br />

<br />

Saskatoon<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Moses<br />

Lake<br />

<br />

Spokane<br />

Kalispell<br />

Regina<br />

Portland Pasco<br />

Eugene<br />

North Bend<br />

Redmond<br />

Medford<br />

<br />

Crescent City<br />

Klamath<br />

Falls<br />

Eureka<br />

Redding<br />

Chico<br />

Winnipeg<br />

Missoula<br />

Glasgow<br />

Great Falls<br />

Williston<br />

Wolf Point<br />

Helena<br />

Lewistown Sidney<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Bozeman<br />

Bismarck<br />

Billings<br />

Miles City Dickinson<br />

Fargo<br />

Boise Cody/<br />

Yellowstone<br />

Sheridan<br />

Idaho Falls<br />

Worland Gillette<br />

<br />

<br />

Jackson Hole<br />

Rapid City<br />

Minneap<br />

PierreHuron<br />

Sacramento<br />

<br />

Reno/Tahoe<br />

Riverton<br />

Casper<br />

Rock Springs <br />

Chadron<br />

Sioux<br />

Falls<br />

<br />

SAN FRANCISCO Oakland<br />

San Jose<br />

Modesto<br />

Merced<br />

Fresno<br />

Monterey<br />

Visalia<br />

<br />

Inyokern<br />

San Luis Obispo<br />

Bakersfield<br />

Santa Maria<br />

Santa Barbara Burbank<br />

Oxnard LOS ANGELES<br />

Scottsbluff<br />

Salt Lake City<br />

Alliance<br />

Laramie<br />

Vernal<br />

<br />

Hayden/<br />

Cheyenne<br />

Steamboat<br />

North Platte<br />

Grand Omaha<br />

Springs<br />

Des<br />

Grand<br />

<br />

Island<br />

Moines<br />

Junction Vail/Eagle<br />

DENVER<br />

Kearney<br />

Moab Aspen<br />

McCook<br />

Lincoln<br />

Montrose Gunnison/<br />

Colorado Springs<br />

Las Vegas<br />

Telluride<br />

Crested<br />

Hays<br />

Butte<br />

Salina<br />

Page/<br />

Cortez Durango<br />

Kansas City<br />

Lake Powell<br />

Pueblo<br />

Farmington Alamosa<br />

Garden City Great Bend<br />

B<br />

Orange County<br />

Carlsbad<br />

Ontario<br />

Palm Springs<br />

<br />

Prescott<br />

Dodge City<br />

Liberal<br />

Wichita<br />

Springfi<br />

San Diego<br />

Imperial<br />

Yuma<br />

Show Low<br />

Phoenix/Scottsdale<br />

Albuquerque<br />

Oklahoma City<br />

Tulsa<br />

Northwe<br />

Arkansas<br />

Kahului<br />

<br />

Kona<br />

0 50 100 150 Miles<br />

0 50 100 150 200 Kilometers<br />

Hilo<br />

Tucson<br />

Los Cabos<br />

<br />

Route lines do not refl ect actual fl ight path<br />

Edmonton<br />

<br />

El Paso<br />

Puerto Vallarta<br />

<br />

Midland/<br />

Odessa<br />

<br />

San Antonio<br />

Austin<br />

Laredo<br />

McAllen<br />

Mexico City<br />

<br />

<br />

Dallas/<br />

Fort<br />

Worth<br />

Houston<br />

Corpus Christi<br />

Harlingen<br />

Brownsville


Duluth<br />

<br />

Houghton<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Portland<br />

<br />

<br />

Toronto Syracuse<br />

Albany Boston<br />

Grand<br />

Hartford/ <br />

Milwaukee Rapids<br />

Buffalo/<br />

Niagara<br />

Springfield<br />

<br />

Falls<br />

Providence<br />

Detroit<br />

Cleveland<br />

New York (La Guardia)<br />

(J.F. Kennedy)<br />

<br />

Newark<br />

Columbus<br />

Philadelphia<br />

<br />

Baltimore<br />

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)<br />

Cincinnati<br />

<br />

St. Louis<br />

Louisville<br />

Richmond<br />

Lexington<br />

Norfolk/Virginia Beach<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem<br />

Raleigh/Durham<br />

Nashville Knoxville<br />

Charlotte<br />

<br />

Greenville/<br />

Memphis<br />

Spartanburg<br />

Columbia<br />

Atlanta <br />

<br />

Birmingham<br />

Charleston<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Savannah<br />

<br />

<br />

Jacksonville<br />

New<br />

Orleans<br />

<br />

Orlando<br />

<br />

Ottawa<br />

Burlington<br />

Wausau<br />

olis<br />

Eau Claire Green Bay Traverse City<br />

Manchester<br />

Appleton/<br />

Ithaca/<br />

Fox Cities<br />

Muskegon<br />

Midland/ Rochester<br />

Corning<br />

Saginaw<br />

London<br />

Binghamton<br />

Newburgh<br />

Madison<br />

Lansing<br />

Wilkes Barre/<br />

South<br />

Scranton<br />

New Haven<br />

White<br />

Cedar<br />

Bend/Elkhart/<br />

Williamsport<br />

Plains Long Island/Islip<br />

Rapids/<br />

Mishawaka<br />

<br />

Iowa City<br />

State<br />

Akron/Canton College Allentown<br />

urlington Peoria Ft.<br />

Moline<br />

Pittsburgh<br />

Wayne<br />

Harrisburg<br />

Johnstown<br />

Altoona<br />

Dayton<br />

Morgantown<br />

<br />

Springfield Indianapolis<br />

Clarksburg<br />

Parkersburg<br />

Salisbury<br />

Shenandoah<br />

Valley<br />

(Reagan National)<br />

Huntington Charleston Charlottesville<br />

Beckley<br />

Waynesville<br />

eld<br />

Roanoke<br />

Newport News/Williamsburg<br />

st<br />

Tri-Cities Regional<br />

Paducah<br />

Greenville<br />

New Bern<br />

Asheville<br />

Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg<br />

Jacksonville<br />

Little<br />

Chattanooga<br />

Wilmington<br />

Rock<br />

Huntsville/<br />

Florence<br />

Decatur<br />

Myrtle Beach<br />

Augusta<br />

Jackson<br />

Montgomery<br />

Hilton Head Island<br />

Baton<br />

Rouge<br />

Mobile<br />

Pensacola Tallahassee<br />

Gulfport/<br />

Biloxi<br />

Ft. Walton<br />

Beach<br />

Gainesville<br />

Daytona<br />

Tampa/St. Petersburg<br />

<br />

West Palm Beach<br />

Ft. Myers<br />

Freeport<br />

Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood<br />

Miami<br />

North Eleuthera<br />

Nassau <br />

Key West<br />

Providenciales<br />

<br />

<br />

Cozumel<br />

<br />

Grand Cayman<br />

<br />

<br />

St. Maarten<br />

St. Thomas<br />

Antigua<br />

San Juan<br />

Punta Cana<br />

<br />

St. Kitts<br />

<br />

<br />

Santo Domingo<br />

0 100 200 300 400 Miles<br />

0 100 200 300 400 500 600 Kilometers<br />

City<br />

Montego Bay<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

<br />

<br />

Halifax<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Hamilton<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

St. Lucia<br />

121


Delhi<br />

<br />

<br />

ROUTE MAPS<br />

INTERNATIONAL CITIES<br />

<br />

Service to Accra, Ghana begins<br />

June 20, <strong>2010</strong><br />

United Route<br />

Code Share route serviced by a<br />

Star Alliance member<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Perth<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Harbin<br />

<br />

Shenyang Sapporo<br />

<br />

Beijing<br />

<br />

<br />

Baotou<br />

<br />

Dalian<br />

Fukuoka Sendai<br />

Seoul<br />

Qingdao<br />

<br />

Komatsu<br />

Tokyo<br />

Shanghai Pusan OsakaNagoya<br />

Nanjing<br />

Chengdu Wuhan<br />

Hiroshima<br />

Chongqing Hangzhou<br />

<br />

Xiamen<br />

Fuzhou<br />

<br />

Okinawa<br />

Guangzhou Taipei<br />

<br />

<br />

Kolkata Hanoi<br />

<br />

Hong Kong<br />

Shenzhen<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Bangkok<br />

<br />

Saipan<br />

<br />

<br />

Guam<br />

<br />

Phuket<br />

Kuala Lumpur<br />

Singapore<br />

<br />

Ho Chi Minh<br />

City (Saigon)<br />

Kota Kinabalu<br />

<br />

<br />

Melbourne<br />

<br />

Code Share route serviced<br />

by a United Partner<br />

Cities served by United,<br />

United Express and Code Share<br />

partners<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Cairns<br />

Sydney<br />

<br />

Brisbane<br />

<br />

Majuro<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Queenstown<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Nadi<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Auckland<br />

Rotorua<br />

Wellington<br />

Christchurch<br />

Dunedin<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Time zone boundary<br />

<br />

Apia<br />

<br />

Honolulu<br />

<br />

<br />

Rarotonga Cook<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

San Francisco<br />

<br />

Seattle<br />

Los Angeles<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Edmonton<br />

<br />

Denver<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Dallas<br />

Guatem<br />

San<br />

M


Philadelphia<br />

Miami<br />

Aruba<br />

New York<br />

Boston<br />

Frankfurt<br />

Belize<br />

City<br />

Washington, DC<br />

Rio de Janeiro<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Chicago<br />

Newark<br />

Addis Ababa<br />

Paris<br />

Chennai (Madras)<br />

Tel Aviv<br />

Kuwait<br />

Lagos<br />

Johannesburg<br />

Munich<br />

Houston<br />

Accra<br />

Bangalore<br />

Mumbai<br />

Rome<br />

Delhi<br />

Amman<br />

Alma-Ata<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Cape Town<br />

Madrid<br />

Stockholm<br />

London<br />

Dubai<br />

Abu Dhabi Muscat<br />

Vienna<br />

Atlanta<br />

Detroit<br />

Warsaw<br />

Shannon<br />

Buenos Aires<br />

ala City<br />

Salvador<br />

Brussels<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Cairo<br />

Asmara<br />

Bahrain<br />

Dakar<br />

Lisbon<br />

Durban<br />

East London<br />

Porto<br />

Hyderabad<br />

Orlando<br />

Tbilisi<br />

Port Elizabeth<br />

Lima<br />

Cuzco<br />

Tegucigalpa<br />

San Pedro Sula<br />

anagua<br />

Cochin<br />

Colombo<br />

Islamabad<br />

Lahore<br />

Peshawar<br />

Trivandrum<br />

Liberia<br />

Doha<br />

Abuja<br />

Karachi<br />

Geneva<br />

Brasilia<br />

Curitiba<br />

Fortaleza<br />

Manaus<br />

Porto Alegre<br />

Salvador<br />

Belo Horizonte<br />

Iguassu Falls<br />

Recife<br />

Dublin<br />

Moscow<br />

Charlotte<br />

Jeddah<br />

Riyadh<br />

Sal<br />

Istanbul<br />

Belfast<br />

Manchester<br />

Birmingham<br />

Bristol<br />

Barcelona<br />

Edinburgh<br />

Glasgow<br />

Hamburg<br />

Oslo<br />

Milan<br />

Berlin<br />

Panama City<br />

Montreal<br />

Toronto<br />

Ottawa<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Santiago<br />

Montevideo<br />

123<br />

Budapest<br />

Lisbon<br />

<br />

<br />

Porto<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Turin<br />

Lyon Geneva<br />

Paris<br />

London<br />

Oslo<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Hamburg<br />

Brussels<br />

Hannover<br />

Frankfurt<br />

Nuremberg<br />

Milan<br />

Venice<br />

Pisa<br />

Rome<br />

Naples<br />

Trieste<br />

Istanbul<br />

Bucharest<br />

Kiev<br />

Vienna<br />

Munich<br />

Prague<br />

Warsaw<br />

Helsinki<br />

Luga<br />

<br />

<br />

Berlin<br />

<br />

Bremen<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Graz<br />

Innsbruck Klagenfurt<br />

Linz<br />

Salzburg<br />

Sofia<br />

Sarajevo<br />

Cologne<br />

Dresden<br />

Verona<br />

Vilnius<br />

Katowice<br />

Marseille Nice<br />

Stuttgart<br />

Riga<br />

Stavanger<br />

Ancona<br />

Dublin<br />

Bologna<br />

Florence<br />

Genoa<br />

Stockholm<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Basel<br />

Aberdeen<br />

Edinburgh<br />

Belfast<br />

Birmingham<br />

<br />

Bergen<br />

Ankara<br />

Glasgow<br />

Manchester<br />

Skopje<br />

Belgrade<br />

<br />

Shannon<br />

Cork<br />

Adan<br />

Antalya<br />

Izmir<br />

Leipzig<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong>


INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS<br />

DOMESTIC<br />

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next fl ight is on United or one of the Star<br />

Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 125–128 to plan<br />

your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United<br />

Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.<br />

CONTACT INFORMATION<br />

Reservations<br />

united.com<br />

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)<br />

Automated Flight Information<br />

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)<br />

Mileage Plus<br />

24-Hour Account Information &<br />

Award Travel<br />

united.com/mileageplus<br />

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)<br />

Mileage Plus Visa Customer<br />

Service<br />

united.com/chase<br />

800-537-7783<br />

Baggage Services<br />

united.com/baggage<br />

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)<br />

Refunds<br />

united.com/refunds<br />

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)<br />

Customer Relations<br />

united.com/customerrelations<br />

Email: customerrelations@<br />

united.com<br />

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)<br />

Red Carpet Club<br />

united.com/redcarpetclub<br />

866-UA-CLUBS (toll-free)<br />

520-881-0500 (outside the U.S.)<br />

Hearing Impaired (TDD)<br />

800-323-0170<br />

Language Assistance (Asian)<br />

800-426-5560<br />

Reservaciones en Español<br />

800-426-5561<br />

United Cargo<br />

unitedcargo.com<br />

800-UA-CARGO (800-822-2746)<br />

United Services<br />

unitedsvcs.com<br />

TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS<br />

At United Airlines, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time<br />

schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a fl ight is the only option<br />

to assure we maintain the highest safety standards.<br />

Flight canceled? We automatically confi rm you on the next United<br />

fl ight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse<br />

will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help<br />

you standby for an earlier United fl ight if one is scheduled. If you want<br />

to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the<br />

next United fl ight to your destination until you are onboard.<br />

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next fl ight if space<br />

is available. This means your bags <strong>may</strong> arrive before you. United will<br />

secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative.<br />

What if I have to stay overnight? If a fl ight is canceled to address a<br />

mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we<br />

Meetings Plus<br />

800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825)<br />

Duty Free World<br />

6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4<br />

Miami, FL 33015 USA<br />

800-668-6182<br />

United Vacations<br />

unitedvacations.com<br />

800-32-TOURS (800-328-6877)<br />

Charter an Airplane<br />

united.com/charter<br />

Small Package Same Day<br />

Shipping<br />

Small Package Dispatch (SPD)—<br />

Airport-to-airport service:<br />

800-722-5243<br />

Employment Opportunities<br />

united.com/jobs<br />

888-UAL-JOBS (888-825-5627)<br />

EasyCheck-in kiosks are located<br />

on the concourse to assist<br />

customers who have experienced<br />

a misconnection or canceled<br />

fl ight. Customers who have<br />

e-tickets and are traveling<br />

domestically <strong>may</strong> use the kiosk to:<br />

1. Rebook on another fl ight<br />

2. Obtain a boarding pass<br />

3. Standby for the next fl ight to<br />

their destination<br />

will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable<br />

events—such as weather—we <strong>may</strong> be able to help you locate a local<br />

hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or<br />

meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag,<br />

overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent.<br />

What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the<br />

delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations<br />

(1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options.<br />

Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging<br />

service. If your fl ight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will<br />

inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united.<br />

com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass.<br />

Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business<br />

and apologize for any inconvenience you <strong>may</strong> have experienced.


ORD<br />

IAD<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.<br />

United Gate Area<br />

United Red Carpet Club<br />

United First International Lounge<br />

United Arrivals Suite<br />

United Premier Check-In<br />

Power Charging Station<br />

Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop<br />

United Easy Check-In<br />

Medical Center<br />

WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.<br />

United Gate Area<br />

United Red Carpet Club<br />

United First International Lounge<br />

International Arrivals Suite<br />

United Premier Check-In<br />

United Easy Check-In<br />

TERMINAL<br />

FIVE<br />

International<br />

Arrivals<br />

Concourse C<br />

Air Canada<br />

C2 C12 C18<br />

C1<br />

TERMINAL<br />

THREE<br />

Concourse M<br />

A2 A4 A6<br />

A1 A3 A5<br />

Train<br />

Concourse F<br />

US Airways<br />

C Connector Tunnel<br />

A14<br />

F11<br />

C24<br />

C9 C17 C27<br />

Z GATES<br />

US Airways<br />

F14<br />

F10<br />

F4<br />

TERMINAL<br />

TWO<br />

Concourse A<br />

F6<br />

F1<br />

Elevated Airport<br />

Transit System (ATS)<br />

D2<br />

D1 D3<br />

MAIN TERMINAL<br />

E3<br />

E1<br />

Concourse E<br />

Air Canada<br />

B1<br />

A32<br />

B6<br />

Concourse B<br />

Continental<br />

Lufthansa<br />

C1<br />

B9<br />

B22<br />

C9<br />

Pedestrian<br />

Tunnel<br />

TERMINAL<br />

ONE<br />

B14<br />

B18<br />

C8<br />

C17<br />

C19<br />

Concourse D<br />

D8 D30<br />

125<br />

Concourse C<br />

ANA<br />

C16<br />

C18<br />

B37 B79<br />

C24<br />

Concourse B<br />

ANA<br />

Continental<br />

Austrian Airlines<br />

SAS<br />

South African Airways<br />

Lufthansa<br />

C32<br />

Shuttle runs between Gates C9 and E3.


LAX<br />

SFO<br />

DEN<br />

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS<br />

DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS<br />

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next fl ight is on United or one of the Star<br />

Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 125–128 to plan<br />

your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United<br />

Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.<br />

LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.<br />

United Gate Area<br />

United Red Carpet Club<br />

United First International Lounge<br />

United Premier Check-In<br />

Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop<br />

United Easy Check-In<br />

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.<br />

United Gate Area<br />

United Red Carpet Club<br />

United First International Lounge<br />

United Arrivals Suite<br />

International Arrivals Suite<br />

United Premier Check-In<br />

Power Charging Station<br />

United Easy Check-In<br />

Medical Center<br />

DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.<br />

United Gate Area<br />

International Arrivals Suite<br />

United Premier Check-In<br />

Interterminal Train Stop<br />

United Easy Check-In<br />

15<br />

16<br />

TOM BRADLEY<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

TERMINAL<br />

Lufthansa<br />

Thai Airways<br />

ANA<br />

Singapore<br />

Asiana<br />

Swiss<br />

Concourse C<br />

US Airways<br />

Concourse A<br />

Air Canada<br />

Continental<br />

Lufthansa<br />

25<br />

26<br />

28<br />

TERMINAL<br />

WEST<br />

TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 2<br />

Air Canada<br />

Air New Zealand<br />

TERMINAL 3<br />

Concourse F<br />

88<br />

Concourse G<br />

United<br />

Air New Zealand<br />

ANA<br />

Lufthansa<br />

Singapore<br />

37<br />

36<br />

79<br />

80<br />

89 81<br />

International Terminal<br />

Secure Connector<br />

39<br />

38<br />

73<br />

35 41<br />

72<br />

78A<br />

76A<br />

Concourse A<br />

Asiana<br />

71<br />

TERMINAL<br />

EAST<br />

67A<br />

TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 6<br />

Continental<br />

49<br />

64<br />

69A 68B<br />

TERMINAL 1<br />

US Airways<br />

12<br />

4B<br />

Concourse E<br />

Air Canada<br />

TERMINAL 1<br />

76<br />

88<br />

TERMINAL 7 TERMINAL 8<br />

★<br />

71A<br />

75A<br />

57<br />

57<br />

50 60<br />

70A<br />

72<br />

Concourse B<br />

Continental<br />

US Airways<br />

Concourse B<br />

81<br />

80<br />

77<br />

91<br />

80 92


LHR<br />

LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT<br />

United Gate Area<br />

United Arrivals Suite<br />

United Premier Check-In<br />

Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop<br />

FRA<br />

FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT<br />

United Gate Area<br />

Interterminal Train Stop<br />

Medical Center<br />

NRT<br />

TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT<br />

United Gate Area<br />

United Red Carpet Club<br />

United First International Lounge<br />

United Premier Check-In<br />

Medical Center<br />

TERMINAL 5<br />

Pier A, Level 3<br />

Gates A51-A65<br />

TERMINAL 3<br />

Lufthansa Tower Lounge<br />

Level 5<br />

TERMINAL 4<br />

Satellite 4<br />

43<br />

Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel<br />

47<br />

B26<br />

B24<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

B20<br />

B28<br />

TERMINAL ONE<br />

B300-B303<br />

B332-B340<br />

Pier B<br />

TERMINAL 1<br />

36<br />

TERMINAL 2<br />

C1<br />

B48<br />

B44<br />

37<br />

C5<br />

B46<br />

Satellite 3 Satellite 2<br />

37<br />

38 32<br />

Pedestrian Tunnel<br />

Satellite 5<br />

South Wing<br />

31<br />

Fourth Floor<br />

Third Floor<br />

Zone D<br />

Zone A<br />

TERMINAL 1<br />

42<br />

39<br />

127<br />

43<br />

50<br />

Pier C<br />

C7<br />

C8<br />

56<br />

Train to Terminal 2<br />

North Wing<br />

Satellite 1


TERMINAL DIAGRAMS<br />

STAR ALLIANCE<br />

United Gate Area<br />

United Red Carpet Club<br />

United First International Lounge<br />

United Arrivals Suite<br />

International Arrivals Suite<br />

United Premier Check-In<br />

US AIRWAYS HUBS CONTINENTAL HUBS<br />

PHL<br />

CLT<br />

PHX<br />

PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT<br />

Concourse A<br />

West<br />

CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT<br />

Concourse E<br />

PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT<br />

TERMINAL 2<br />

United<br />

1<br />

7<br />

Concourse A<br />

East<br />

Concourses B-E<br />

US Airways<br />

Concourses A, B, C & F<br />

US Airways<br />

Concourse C<br />

Concourse D<br />

Concourse B Concourse C<br />

Concourse F<br />

Continuous shuttle bus pickup and drop-off between Gates F10 and C16.<br />

1<br />

7<br />

Concourse B<br />

TERMINAL 4<br />

US Airways<br />

Concourse A Concourse B<br />

13<br />

Concourse E<br />

Concourse D<br />

United<br />

2 4<br />

Concourse A<br />

United<br />

Concourse B<br />

International<br />

To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside.<br />

IAH<br />

CLE<br />

EWR<br />

Power Charging Station<br />

Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop<br />

United Easy Check-In<br />

Medical Center<br />

HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT<br />

A25-30<br />

A17-24<br />

TERMINAL A<br />

United<br />

TerminaLink connects B, C, D and E.<br />

It is above ground transportation between terminals while inside security.<br />

CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT<br />

C22<br />

D14<br />

C19 C16<br />

C25<br />

D10<br />

D17<br />

Concourse C<br />

Continental<br />

C14<br />

D21<br />

D6<br />

C7<br />

C29 C10 C4<br />

D25<br />

D2<br />

B3<br />

C2<br />

Pedestrian Tunnel<br />

D28<br />

NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT<br />

115<br />

98<br />

127<br />

Shuttle Bus<br />

136<br />

92<br />

80<br />

102<br />

72<br />

101<br />

130<br />

TERMINALS A-E<br />

Continental<br />

A3-15 B76-83 B84-91<br />

B68-75 B60-67<br />

TERMINAL B<br />

88<br />

75<br />

71<br />

B3<br />

TERMINAL C<br />

Continental<br />

TerminaLink<br />

AirTrain<br />

B2<br />

TERMINAL B<br />

TERMINAL C TERMINAL E<br />

Concourse B<br />

United<br />

Concourse D<br />

Continental<br />

AirTrain connects to Amtrack and New Jersey Transit.<br />

B1<br />

C14-23<br />

TERMINAL A<br />

United<br />

Continental<br />

A3<br />

TERMINAL D<br />

E10-14<br />

C34-42 E1-9 E15-24<br />

Concourse A<br />

A2<br />

A1


ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. On May 13, TAM Airlines<br />

becomes the newest member of the Star Alliance. TAM offers more than 750 daily fl ights to<br />

destinations throughout South America, Europe and the United States.<br />

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS<br />

STAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS<br />

Effective May 13, <strong>2010</strong>, TAM will become a Star Alliance member<br />

REGIONAL ALLIANCE PARTNERS<br />

You can earn and redeem miles on many of our Regional<br />

Alliance Partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for specifi c<br />

information about each of our Regional Alliance Partners.<br />

Aer Lingus<br />

Air Dolomiti<br />

Continental Connection<br />

Emirates<br />

Great Lakes<br />

Hawaiian Airlines<br />

Island Air<br />

Jet Airways<br />

Qatar Airways<br />

TACA Group<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

129<br />

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the fi rst<br />

truly global airline alliance to offer customers a<br />

worldwide travel network that aims to provide<br />

customers a seamless travel experience across<br />

multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network<br />

offers more than 18,900 daily fl ights to 983<br />

destinations in 169 countries.<br />

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER<br />

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn<br />

miles almost anywhere in the world you fl y. Miles<br />

can be earned on most fares on almost every Star<br />

Alliance fl ight and can be credited to your Mileage<br />

Plus account. Plus the fl ight miles you earn will<br />

count toward elite status in Mileage Plus. See<br />

united.com/airpartners for details.<br />

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more<br />

miles you fl y with United and the Star Alliance<br />

airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status<br />

can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®.<br />

Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across<br />

the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star<br />

Alliance Gold, with travel benefi ts worldwide. See<br />

united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star<br />

Gold benefi ts you can receive.<br />

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance<br />

Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles<br />

for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier<br />

worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade<br />

Awards—upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in<br />

comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).


CUSTOMS<br />

& IMMIGRATION<br />

ENTRY REGULATIONS<br />

CUSTOMS DECLARATION<br />

ENGLISH<br />

All passengers (or one per family) are<br />

required to complete the Customs<br />

Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S.<br />

The forms will be distributed infl ight and<br />

should include all personal data in English<br />

and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign<br />

your name.<br />

SPANISH/ESPAÑOL<br />

Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia)<br />

tienen que llenar los formularios de<br />

Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a<br />

los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán<br />

durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus<br />

datos personales en inglés y con letras<br />

<strong>may</strong>úsculas. No olvide fi rmar en el reverso<br />

del formulario.<br />

1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo<br />

nombre<br />

2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año)<br />

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS<br />

The following items are considered hazardous<br />

materials. Do not pack in checked or<br />

carry-on luggage.<br />

FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS<br />

Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fl uid, matches<br />

WEAPONS<br />

Loaded fi rearms, ammunition, gunpowder,<br />

Mace, tear gas, pepper spray<br />

HOUSEHOLD ITEMS<br />

Drain cleaners and solvents<br />

COMPRESSED GASES<br />

Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles<br />

FIREWORKS<br />

Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives<br />

OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS<br />

Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping<br />

equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries,<br />

oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials,<br />

3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted<br />

4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU.<br />

(nombre del hotel/lugar)<br />

(b) Ciudad, (c) Estado<br />

5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis)<br />

6. Número del pasaporte<br />

7. País de residencia<br />

8. Países que visitó durante este viaje<br />

antes de su llegada a los EE.UU.<br />

9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre<br />

del barco<br />

10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de<br />

negocios: Sí / No<br />

11. Traigo (Traemos)<br />

(a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:<br />

Sí / No<br />

(b) carnes, animales, productos de<br />

animales o silvestres: Sí / No<br />

(c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos<br />

celulares, caracoles:Sí / No<br />

(d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en fi nca/<br />

granja/pastizales: Sí / No<br />

12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de<br />

ganado (tocando o manipulándolo):<br />

Sí / No<br />

13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o<br />

instrumentos monetarios por valor<br />

superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en<br />

moneda extranjera (Véase la defi nición<br />

de instrumentos monetarios al dorso):<br />

Sí / No<br />

14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías<br />

comerciales (artículos para la venta,<br />

muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes<br />

que no constituyen efectos personales):<br />

Sí / No<br />

15. Residentes—el valor total de todos<br />

los bienes, incluidas las mercancías<br />

comerciales que he (hemos) comprado<br />

en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos<br />

para otras personas, pero sin incluir<br />

los artículos enviados por correo a<br />

los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos)<br />

introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de:<br />

$___<br />

Visitantes—el valor total de todos<br />

los artículos que permanecerán en<br />

los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías<br />

comerciales, es de: $___<br />

I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD<br />

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY OMB No. 1651-0111<br />

U.S. Customs and Border Protection<br />

Welcome to the United States<br />

I-94 Arrival/Departure Record<br />

Instructions<br />

This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens,<br />

aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.<br />

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the<br />

back of this form.<br />

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and<br />

the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).<br />

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer.<br />

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are<br />

entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.<br />

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code,<br />

including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to<br />

give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The<br />

information solicited on this form <strong>may</strong> be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes<br />

or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless<br />

otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information <strong>may</strong> deny you entry to the<br />

United States and result in your removal.<br />

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)<br />

OMB No. 1651-0111<br />

Arrival Record<br />

Admission Number<br />

See Other Side<br />

ENGLISH<br />

Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign<br />

nationals (except Canadian citizens and<br />

U.S. permanent residents or nationals<br />

of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver<br />

Program—see I-94W on next page) are<br />

required to complete an I-94 form. One<br />

form is required for each family member.<br />

Customers should complete all personal and<br />

travel-related information included on the<br />

front side of the form. Please do not write on<br />

ENGLISH<br />

000000000 00<br />

1. Family Name<br />

2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)<br />

4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female)<br />

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)<br />

8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number<br />

10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded<br />

12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)<br />

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street)<br />

15. City and State<br />

16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached<br />

17. Email Address<br />

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY<br />

U.S. Customs and Border Protection<br />

Departure Record<br />

Admission Number<br />

000000000 00<br />

18. Family Name<br />

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)<br />

OMB No. 1651-0111<br />

19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)<br />

21. Country of Citizenship<br />

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)<br />

STAPLE HERE<br />

Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers<br />

who intend to travel to the United States<br />

without a U.S. Visa under the terms of<br />

the Visa Waiver Program must obtain<br />

an electronic preauthorization or ESTA<br />

in advance of travel. When planning<br />

international travel, please be sure that<br />

you are in possession of all required<br />

documents. Remember to allow ample time<br />

for acquiring offi cial travel documents. For<br />

complete information on the requirements,<br />

and to apply for ESTA, please visit www.<br />

cbp.gov/esta.<br />

the back side of the form. All information<br />

should be written in capital letters and in<br />

English. You are required to keep this form<br />

until your departure from the U.S.<br />

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL<br />

Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos,<br />

todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto<br />

los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes<br />

permanentes en los Estados Unidos o<br />

ciudadanos de los países que tienen el<br />

Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario<br />

I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar<br />

un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un<br />

formulario por cada miembro de la familia.<br />

Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información<br />

personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en<br />

el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que<br />

no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda<br />

la información debe estar escrita con letras<br />

<strong>may</strong>úsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que<br />

guarde este formulario hasta que salga de<br />

los Estados Unidos.<br />

1. Apellido<br />

2. Nombre<br />

3. Fecha de nacimiento<br />

(Día/Mes/Año)<br />

4. País de ciudadanía<br />

5. Sexo (masculino o femenino)<br />

6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte<br />

7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte<br />

8. Número de pasaporte<br />

9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo<br />

10. País donde vives<br />

11. País en el que abordaron<br />

12. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado<br />

13. Fecha del visado (Día/Mes/Año)<br />

14. Direccion donde se quedará en los<br />

EE.UU (Número, calle)<br />

15. Ciudad y Estado<br />

16. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU.<br />

17. Dirección de correo electrónico<br />

18. Apellido<br />

19. Nombre<br />

20. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año)<br />

21. Pais de ciudadanía<br />

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONS ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION<br />

poisons, infectious substances<br />

NOTE<br />

There are special exceptions for small<br />

quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of<br />

medicinal and toilet articles carried in your<br />

luggage. For further information, check with<br />

any airline representative.<br />

IMPORT RESTRICTIONS<br />

Please note new controls on the import of<br />

meat, fi sh, plants and their products into the<br />

United Kingdom and European Union. Check<br />

the advisory notices displayed in the baggage<br />

hall for a detailed explanation of these<br />

restrictions. If you possess any of these items,<br />

please declare them to customs in the red<br />

channel to avoid legal consequences.<br />

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL<br />

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los<br />

pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU.<br />

(entre los terminos del programa de no tener<br />

que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una<br />

preautorización electronica o ESTA antes<br />

de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes<br />

internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos<br />

los documentos requerídos. No se olvide<br />

de dejar tiempo sufi ciente para adquirir los<br />

documentos ofi ciales de viaje.<br />

Para información completa sobre todos los<br />

requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por<br />

favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.


I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT<br />

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY<br />

OMB No. 1651-0111<br />

U.S. Customs and Border Protection<br />

Welcome to the United States<br />

I-94W Nonimmigrant Visa Waiver Arrival/Departure Record<br />

Instructions<br />

This form must be completed by every nonimmigrant visitor not in possession of a visitor’s<br />

visa, who is a national of one of the countries enumerated in 8 CFR 217. The airline can<br />

provide you with the current list of eligible countries.<br />

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. USE ENGLISH<br />

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 15) and<br />

the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). The reverse side of this form must be signed<br />

and dated. Children under the age of fourteen must have their form signed by a parent or<br />

guardian.<br />

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space.<br />

If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.<br />

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code,<br />

including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to<br />

give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The<br />

information solicited on this form <strong>may</strong> be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes<br />

or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless<br />

otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information <strong>may</strong> deny you entry to the<br />

United States and result in your removal.<br />

Admission Number<br />

00000000000<br />

Arrival Record<br />

VISA WAIVER<br />

1. Family Name<br />

2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)<br />

4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female)<br />

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)<br />

8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number<br />

10. Country Where You Live 11. City Where You Boarded<br />

12. Address While in the United States (Number and Street)<br />

13. City and State<br />

14. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached<br />

15. Email Address<br />

16. 17.<br />

Admission Number<br />

00000000000<br />

Departure Record<br />

VISA WAIVER<br />

18. Family Name<br />

See Other Side<br />

CBP Form I-94W (05/08)<br />

OMB No. 1651-0111<br />

19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)<br />

21. Country of Citizenship<br />

Government Use Only<br />

CBP Form I-94W (05/08)<br />

STAPLE HERE<br />

ENGLISH<br />

Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign<br />

nationals (except Canadian citizens and<br />

U.S. permanent residents) who are not<br />

in possession of a visitors visa and are<br />

entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are<br />

required to complete the I-94W form. One<br />

form is required for each family member.<br />

Customers should complete all personal<br />

and travel-related information included<br />

on the front side of the card. Please ensure<br />

that you answer all questions and sign and<br />

date where indicated on the back side of this<br />

form. All customers must provide a U.S.<br />

address for entry.<br />

Countries that are participants of<br />

the Visa Waiver Program are as follows:<br />

Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium,<br />

Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark,<br />

*Estonia, Finland, France, Germany,<br />

*Greece, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland,<br />

Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein,<br />

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY<br />

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward<br />

chest, decreasing the amount of<br />

joint space at back of the knee.<br />

Repeat with other leg.<br />

Knee Extension: Straighten knee,<br />

increasing the amount of joint<br />

space at the back of the knee<br />

to its full range. Repeat with<br />

other leg.<br />

*Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco,<br />

the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway,<br />

Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia,<br />

Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden,<br />

Switzerland, the United Kingdom.<br />

*Nationals of these countries must present<br />

an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible<br />

for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.<br />

Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries<br />

must present a machine-readable passport<br />

for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.<br />

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL<br />

Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos,<br />

los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto<br />

ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes<br />

permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que<br />

no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan<br />

al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que<br />

completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere<br />

un formulario por cado miembro de<br />

familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda<br />

información tanto personal como relacionada<br />

con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por<br />

favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las<br />

preguntas , fi rmen y pongan la fecha en el<br />

lugar indicado en el formulario. Todos los<br />

pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección<br />

en Estados Unidos para entrar al país.<br />

Los países que participan del Programa<br />

de exención de visas son los siguientes:<br />

Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria,<br />

Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca,<br />

*Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia,<br />

Finlandia, Francia, *Grecia, *Hungría,<br />

Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia,<br />

Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo,<br />

*Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia,<br />

Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa,<br />

San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el<br />

Reino Unido.<br />

*Los ciudadanos de estos países deben<br />

presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte<br />

para ser elegible para del Programa de<br />

exención de visas de Estados Unidos.<br />

Los ciudadanos de los demás países<br />

exentos de visas deben presentar un<br />

pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco<br />

del Programa de exención de visas de<br />

Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre<br />

de 2004.<br />

1. Apellido<br />

2. Nombre<br />

3. Fecha de nacimiento<br />

(Día/Mes/Año)<br />

Do any of the following apply to you? (Answer Yes or No)<br />

A. Do you have a communicable disease; physical or mental disorder, or are<br />

Yes No<br />

you a drug abuser or addict?<br />

B. Have you ever been arrested or convicted for an offense or crime involving<br />

Yes No<br />

moral turpitude or a violation related to a controlled substance; or been<br />

arrested or convicted for two or more offenses for which the aggregate<br />

sentence to confinement was five years or more; or been a controlled<br />

substance trafficker, or are you seeking entry to engage in criminal or<br />

immoral activities?<br />

C. Have you ever been or are you now involved in espionage or sabotage; or in<br />

Yes No<br />

terrorist activities; or genocide; or between 1933 and 1945 were involved, in<br />

any way, in persecutions associated with Nazi Germany or its allies?<br />

D. Are you seeking to work in the U.S.; or have ever been excluded and<br />

Yes No<br />

deported; or been previously removed from the United States; or procured<br />

or attempted to procure a visa or entry into the U.S. by fraud or<br />

misrepresentation?<br />

E. Have you ever detained, retained or withheld custody of a child from a U.S.<br />

Yes No<br />

citizen granted custody of the child?<br />

F. Have you ever been denied a U.S. visa or entry into the U.S. or had a U.S.<br />

Yes No<br />

visa cancelled? If yes,<br />

when? ______________________ where? _________________________<br />

G. Have you ever asserted immunity from prosecution?<br />

Yes No<br />

IMPORTANT: If you answered “Yes” to any of the above, please contact the American Embassy<br />

BEFORE you travel to the U.S. since you <strong>may</strong> be refused admission into the United States.<br />

Family Name (Please print) First Name<br />

Country of Citizenship Date of Birth<br />

WAIVER OF RIGHTS: I hereby waive any rights to review or appeal of a U.S. Customs and Border<br />

Protection officer’s determination as to my admissibility, or to contest, other than on the basis of an<br />

application for asylum, any action in deportation.<br />

CERTIFICATION: I certify that I have read and understand all the questions and statements on this<br />

form. The answers I have furnished are true and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief.<br />

Signature Date<br />

Paperwork Reduction Act Statement: An agency <strong>may</strong> not conduct or sponsor an information<br />

collection and a person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays a current valid<br />

OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0111. The estimated average<br />

time to complete this application is 8 minutes per respondent. If you have any comments regarding the<br />

burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, Asset Management, 1300<br />

Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington DC 20229<br />

Departure Record<br />

Important – Retain this permit in your possession; you must surrender it when you leave the U.S.<br />

Failure to do so <strong>may</strong> delay your entry into the U.S. in the future.<br />

You are authorized to stay in the U.S. only until the date written on this form. To remain past this date,<br />

without permission from Department of Homeland Security authorities, is a violation of the law.<br />

Surrender this permit when you leave the U.S.:<br />

- By sea or air, to the transportation line;<br />

- Across the Canadian border, to a Canadian Official;<br />

- Across the Mexican border, to a U.S. Official.<br />

Warning: You <strong>may</strong> not accept unauthorized employment; or attend school; or represent the foreign<br />

information media during your visit under this program. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. for 90<br />

days or less. You <strong>may</strong> not apply for: 1) a change of nonimmigrant status; 2) adjustment of status to<br />

temporary or permanent resident, unless eligible under section 201(b) of the INA; or 3) an extension of<br />

stay. Violation of these terms will subject you to deportation. Any previous violation of this program,<br />

including having previously overstayed on this program without a proper DHS authorization, will<br />

result in a finding of inadmissibility as outlined in Section 217 of the Immigration and Nationality Act.<br />

Port:<br />

Date:<br />

Carrier:<br />

Flight No./Ship Name:<br />

4. Nacionalidad<br />

5. Sexo (varón/hembra)<br />

6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte<br />

7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte<br />

8. Número de pasaporte<br />

9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo<br />

10. País de residencia<br />

11. País en el que abordó<br />

12. Direccion donde se quedará en los<br />

EE.UU (Número, calle)<br />

13. Ciudad y Estado<br />

14. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU.<br />

15. Dirección de correo electrónico<br />

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL<br />

¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a<br />

usted? (Conteste Si o No)<br />

A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad<br />

contagiosa, defi ciencia física o<br />

mental, o es adicto a las drogas?<br />

Sí / No<br />

Dorsifl exion: With heel on fl oor, point<br />

toes upward, decreasing the angle<br />

between the foot and front of the leg.<br />

Repeat with other foot.<br />

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and<br />

keep toes pointed toward the fl oor,<br />

increasing the angle between the top<br />

of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat<br />

with other foot.<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY <strong>2010</strong><br />

I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK<br />

131<br />

B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado<br />

por alguna infracción o delito de<br />

depravación moral; o por una violación<br />

relacionada con estupefacientes;<br />

arrestado o condenado por dos o más<br />

infracciones cuya sentencia total de<br />

reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco<br />

años; ha sido trafi cante de estupefacientes,<br />

o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos<br />

para realizar actividades criminales o<br />

inmorales? Sí / No<br />

C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos<br />

de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades<br />

terroristas o genocidios; o participó<br />

de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945<br />

en persecuciones relacionadas con la<br />

Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No<br />

D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los<br />

Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o<br />

deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los<br />

Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido<br />

o intentado obtener un visado o la<br />

entrada a los Estados Unidos por<br />

medios fraudulentos o dando<br />

información falsa? Sí / No<br />

E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido<br />

la custodia de un niño que corresponda<br />

legalmente a un ciudadano de los<br />

Estados Unidos? Sí / No<br />

F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado<br />

alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los<br />

Estados Unidos? En caso afi rmitavo,<br />

especifi que? Sí / No<br />

¿Cúando? ¿Dónde?<br />

G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su<br />

inmunidad frente a un<br />

procesamiento? Sí / No<br />

IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado<br />

afi rmativamente alguna de las preguntas,<br />

comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados<br />

Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede<br />

denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.<br />

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente<br />

renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del<br />

Ofi cial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión<br />

en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a<br />

impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que<br />

no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.<br />

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y<br />

entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados<br />

enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las<br />

respuestas que he propocionado en este<br />

formulario son verdaderas y<br />

correctas a mi mejor saber y entender.<br />

Eversion: With foot on fl oor,<br />

gently roll the sole of the foot<br />

inward. Repeat with other foot.<br />

Inversion: With foot on fl oor,<br />

gently roll the sole of the foot<br />

outward. Repeat with other foot.


132 MAY <strong>2010</strong> | UNITED.COM<br />

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10. Golden rule word<br />

14. Asterisk<br />

18. “What’s gotten<br />

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19. Opinions<br />

20. Oyster’s prize<br />

22. Wedding reception<br />

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23. Gravitate (toward)<br />

24. Hog sound<br />

25. This place has Seoul<br />

26. Main line<br />

27. Photographic equipment<br />

29. Deal maker<br />

31. An American wireless<br />

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33. Germ-free<br />

34. Itty-bitty<br />

35. Realize<br />

36. Sensed<br />

38. Top dog<br />

41. A salt or ester of<br />

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45. Animal skin disease<br />

49. Campaigned<br />

51. Ancient<br />

53. Pulled off<br />

54. Fluish feeling<br />

55. Nightspot<br />

57. Manicurist's tool<br />

58. What golfers aim for<br />

59. Acrobatic move<br />

61. Bearish<br />

63. Depend (on)<br />

64. Male possessive<br />

pronoun<br />

65. Garden tool<br />

66. What's left behind<br />

68. Earlier<br />

70. Like some small towns<br />

73. Wordplay<br />

74. Proxy server<br />

79. Cassowary cousin<br />

80. Place of worship<br />

83. Some trial evidence<br />

84. Exchange blows<br />

85. Swell<br />

88. Earnest<br />

90. Dessert of the heavens<br />

93. Battery contents<br />

94. Glazier's item<br />

95. Bleacher feature<br />

96. Cybercafé patron<br />

97. Nudge<br />

98. Indented<br />

100. It <strong>may</strong> be tapped<br />

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107. Bill Clinton's<br />

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110. Conk<br />

111. Thumbs-down<br />

112. Accepting the facts<br />

117. Hair curler<br />

120. Bring back<br />

122. Beguile<br />

123. Region<br />

124. Insect stage<br />

126. Playful animal<br />

128. Scheme<br />

129. Pessimist's word<br />

130. Understood<br />

131. Informal term<br />

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134. Mexican money<br />

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136. Water pitcher<br />

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8. Wine holder<br />

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21. TV series that<br />

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56. Popular jeans<br />

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58. Jumper<br />

60. To It May Concern<br />

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81. Reddish brown dye 109. Oceanic bird<br />

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82. Despise<br />

113. Slip<br />

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85. A prince in India<br />

114. Acquired relative<br />

86. Screen symbol<br />

115. Teatime treat<br />

87. Endorse<br />

116. Taxi ticker<br />

89. Make up one's mind 117. From the same<br />

91. Near<br />

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New Jersey, for the<br />

summer. I have a job lined<br />

up as a counselor at a day<br />

camp. Working with kids<br />

is a lot of fun—way better<br />

than a real job.<br />

MY PREFLIGHT RITUAL / I take<br />

a picture out the window<br />

every time I fl y. I’ve<br />

probably taken about fi fty<br />

pictures. Every time it’s a<br />

little bit different.<br />

NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT<br />

My skateboard. Whenever<br />

I can, I travel with my<br />

skateboard. I’m always<br />

scared it’ll break, so I never<br />

check it. It takes me a lot of<br />

time to get through security.<br />

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND<br />

PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON


FRUIT AND YOGURT PARFAIT<br />

THAI CHICKEN WRAP<br />

United does not serve peanuts as snacks or use peanuts or peanut oils in foods<br />

served on our flights. However, we do serve vendor products manufactured in<br />

facilities that also produce items containing peanuts or peanut oils, and we do<br />

have snack mixes that contain other tree nuts, such as almonds and pistachios.<br />

WELCOME<br />

ABOARD!<br />

We are pleased to enhance your in-flight experience with Choice Menu<br />

options available for purchase on most North American flights, excluding<br />

United Express ® . This month, we’ve streamlined our menu to make favorite<br />

products more accessible than ever. Savor a cocktail, indulge in a snack<br />

or save time by having your meal onboard. Should you opt to purchase an<br />

Eat For GoodSM snackbox, United will donate $1.00 to support a critical<br />

cause-related organization. Thank you for flying United and please enjoy<br />

the service.<br />

BREAKFAST<br />

ON FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS DEPARTING BEFORE 10AM<br />

FRUIT AND YOGURT PARFAIT $5<br />

Low fat vanilla yogurt served with fruit and a side of granola.<br />

HAM AND SWISS CROISSANT $5<br />

Flavorful ham and swiss cheese on a croissant with dijonnaise sauce<br />

(served cold).<br />

LUNCH/DINNER<br />

ON FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS DEPARTING BETWEEN 10AM-8PM<br />

ASSORTED CHEESE TRAY $6<br />

Specially selected cheeses including monterey jack, havarti dill and cheddar,<br />

dried cranberries, almonds and assorted Pepperidge Farm crackers.<br />

TURKEY SANDWICH $9<br />

Tender smoked turkey topped with crisp romaine lettuce and sundried<br />

tomato aioli sauce on multigrain bread, accompanied by Kettle Classics<br />

potato chips.<br />

THAI CHICKEN WRAP $9<br />

Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, julienned carrots, red and yellow<br />

bell pepper strips and Thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla, accompanied by<br />

Kettle Classics potato chips.<br />

CHICKEN CAESAR SALAD $9<br />

Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, shredded parmesan<br />

cheese on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, served with classic caesar<br />

dressing and croutons on the side.<br />

Your feedback is welcomed via ualsurvey.com within seven days of your<br />

flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All<br />

other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if<br />

your selection is not available on today’s flight.


PAYMENT<br />

EasyPurchase<br />

Only credit/debit cards are accepted.<br />

SNACKBOXES<br />

AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS<br />

Actual contents <strong>may</strong> vary slightly.<br />

CLASSIC $6<br />

Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips Oreo Cookies <br />

Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers Sparrer<br />

Beef Salami Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread Pepperidge<br />

Farm Crackers<br />

EAT FOR GOOD $<br />

$ ®<br />

Bumble Bee Chicken Salad Pepperidge Farm Crackers Kettle<br />

Classics Plain Chips High Energy Trail Mix <br />

Drink Mix Immaculate Baking Chocolate Chip Cookies<br />

LUXE $<br />

Rondelé Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread Pepperidge<br />

Farm Crackers Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla<br />

Chips Wild Garden Hummus Dip Oloves Mediterranean or<br />

Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks Asher’s<br />

Dark Chocolate Pretzel<br />

BEVERAGES<br />

RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK<br />

Beverage Service is available on most United flights. While we<br />

try to ensure that you always receive your first choice, actual<br />

selections <strong>may</strong> vary according to availability, class of service<br />

or destination.<br />

NON-ALCOHOLIC<br />

COMPLIMENTARY<br />

Soft Drinks<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

PREMIUM<br />

<br />

ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES<br />

Complimentary in United Business ® and United First ® .<br />

Priced as shown in United Economy.<br />

WINES<br />

<br />

<br />

Domestic flights only:<br />

<br />

<br />

Domestic United Business and United First<br />

<strong>may</strong> also choose:<br />

<br />

<br />

Refer to printed menus for additional selections where applicable.<br />

BEER, COCKTAILS, SPIRITS, LIQUEURS<br />

BEER<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

PREMIUM COCKTAILS<br />

<br />

SPIRITS<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

LIQUEURS<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

rule, we <strong>may</strong> not serve alcohol to customers who appear<br />

intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage<br />

at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and<br />

served by flight attendants <strong>may</strong> be consumed onboard.


« Turn the page to enjoy<br />

This month we we are are celebrating a a significant milestone – –<br />

the the 80-year anniversary of of United’s flight attendant service.<br />

On On May May 15, 15, 1930, the the world’s first first stewardesses took took flight flight on on a Boeing a Boeing 80A, 80A, 20-hour flight flight<br />

with with 13 13 stops between Oakland/San Francisco and and Chicago. The The original eight eight brave women<br />

were were pioneers who who paved the the way way for for countless others to to follow in in their their footsteps. They They were were<br />

instrumental in in launching an an era era of of enhanced travel experiences with with the the hallmark of of safe safe and and<br />

professional service.<br />

Our Our first first stewardesses were were all all registered nurses who who confidently eased customer apprehensions<br />

about flying. Much like like today, they they were were safety experts, emergency responders, service<br />

professionals, mediators and and counselors. While the the title title changed to to flight flight attendant in in 1972 as as<br />

the the profession opened to to men men as as well well as as women, the the “stewardship” of of caring for for our our customers<br />

has has never wavered.<br />

Air Air travel has has come a long a long way way over over the the last last 80 80 years. The The Jet Jet Age Age launched advancements<br />

beyond anything dreamed of of by by those early early pioneers. Throughout our our journey, flight flight attendants<br />

have have taken on on much greater roles roles in in safety, security and and service.<br />

The The flight flight attendant profession continues to to attract many individuals who who are are eager to to make<br />

their their living living being of of service in in the the sky. sky. It’s It’s a tough a tough job job that that requires dedication, independence,<br />

quick-thinking to to handle unusual situations, and and the the ability to to start start conversations with with perfect<br />

strangers every day, day, every flight. It is It is my my honor to to support our our flight flight attendants who’ve made<br />

it their it their profession to to serve over over 58 58 million customers each each year. year.<br />

On On behalf of of the the men men and and women who who have have proudly earned their their United wings, thank you you for for<br />

sharing in in this this very very special celebration. We We are are delighted to to have have you you flying with with us us today.<br />

ALEXANDRIA MARREN<br />

Senior Vice Vice President<br />

Onboard Service<br />

To To learn learn more more about about United’s United’s history,<br />

history,<br />

visit visit “About “About United” United” on on united.com<br />

united.com


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All doctors are board certifi ed<br />

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Castle Connolly – America’s Top Doctors

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