september-2011

MAGAZINE FOR CEBU PACIFIC
SEPTEMBER 2011
In this issue:
Mid-autumn
specials
All you can eat in
Singapore, Manila
and Hong Kong
page 32
Chill in
the , hood
Uncover Hong Kong’s
secret neighborhoods
Swing to jungle jazz
in Borneo
A food lover , Perfect 10
s
guide to
Jakarta

contents
Here’s where everything’s at in September.
9Welcome
message
Salutations from Cebu Pacifi c
CEO Lance Gokongwei
11 10 cult foods
of Jakarta
We’ve mapped out Indonesia’s
capital city for its top 10 iconic
culinary treats
50 Jazz
paradise
Borneo’s annual musical
extravaganza, complete with
jazz superstars and a sultry
setting, gains a loyal following
The hidden
‘hoods of
Hong Kong
Chikka 42
The changing
face of Wanchai
in Hong Kong
An array of fun, useful
and buzz-worthy mini articles
12 Calendar
Check out all the fun events
happening across the CEB network
18 Celebrity
travel tips
58
Hollywood hotties share the secrets to
staying gorgeous while globe-trotting
20 Slick traveler
How acclaimed wedding videographer
Jason Magbanua works it around the world
32
Mid-autumn
feasts
Where to eat, drink and be merry
for this year’s Moon Festival
35 A recipe
for laughs
How the fi ne art of Pinoy comedy
fl icks follows a no-fail formula
36cinema, on how
being open to everything brought her right
to the top of her game
RAYMUND
Yes
woman
Eugene
Domingo, the
new toast of
Philippine
ISAAC
{ 1 }
Szechuan Court
mooncakes
Eugene Domingo
Think you know Hong Kong? Discover the
cool corners and hip new neighborhoods
beneath the bright lights, big city
68 Vietnam
unexpected
Swing from the bustling city to the barelychanging,
postcard-perfect countryside
77 Trip journal
Your city guides to Cebu Pacifi c’s
destinations, with great advice from locals
114 Route map
Where will you fl y to next? Check out Cebu
Pacifi c’s growing network!
116 Airline news
The latest buzz from your favorite airline
119-120 Onboard
delights
Sweet and savory bites plus loads of infl ight
merchandise and duty-free items to buy

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PHOTO MONICA BARRETTO. GROOMING MARIE CALICA. STYLING LEONA LAVIÑA-PANUTAT
INK EDITORIAL
Editor Maya O Calica
Art Director Adi Effendy
Sub-Editor Tara FT Sering
Contributing Editors Charmaine Baylon (Chikka
section) and Nikka Sarthou (Domestic Trip Journal)
Editorial Director (Singapore) Liz Weselby
Design Director (Asia) Peter Stephens
Associate Design Director (Singapore)
Terence Goh
Photo Editor Lester V Ledesma
Production Manager Helen Uy Punzalan
Design Intern Margaretha Hartanto, Sri Nur
Shazreen
Executive Creative Director Michael Keating
CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke
Managing Director Gerry Ricketts
Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal
Group Publisher Simon Leslie
ADVERTISING
Group Publisher Mohan Gopal
Associate Publisher Frances Barsana
Brand Managers Bong Dy-Liacco, Andrew Lugtu
and Jil Sembrano-North
Tel +65 6324 2386
Email smile@ink-global.com
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Email smile@ink-global.com
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Find us at: Smile Cebu Pacifi c Airlines
Email us at: Smilefb@ink-global.com
SMILE magazine is published on behalf of Cebu
Pacifi c Air by Ink Publishing Pte Ltd • 89 Neil
Road #03-01, Singapore 088849 • tel +65
6324 2386 • fax +65 6491 5261 •
www.ink-global.com • www.cebusmile.com
MICA (P) 170/06/2011
All articles and
photographs published
herein are created by
the authors and photographers at their own
discretion and do not necessarily represent
the views of the airline. All material is strictly
copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced in whole
or in part without the prior written permission
of the copyright holder. All prices and data are
correct at the time of publication.
MAGAZINE FOR CEBU PACIFIC
SEPTEMBER 2011
In this issue:
Mid-autumn
specials
All you can eat in
Singapore, Manila
and Hong Kong
page 32
Chill in
the , hood
Uncover Hong Kong’s
secret neighborhoods
Swing to jungle jazz
in Borneo
A food lover , Perfect 10
s
guide to
Jakarta
THIS MONTH’S COVER
Photography Jon Tadashi Martin. Art director Adi
Effendy. Hair Keith Lau. Makeup Angel Mok. Stylist
Crystie Li. Model Melanie/Elite. Coral dress, H&M.
Necklace, Agnes B. Shoes, stylist's own. Shot in
Classifi ed, Starstreet, Hong Kong. Special thanks
to the Catchon team (www.catchonco.com)
welcome onboard
Hide and seek
I have a thing for uncharted territory. Whenever I travel to a new city,
I venture towards its less touristy parts: the back alleys or smaller streets
where one can stumble upon excellent (albeit little-known) coffee shops,
exotic street food or even a tailor who can make a suit in 24 hours.
Our cover story (page 58) will take you to four neighborhoods in
Hong Kong. Once reserved for just the locals, its little corners have been
invigorated with new life through its hip cafés, quaint shops and happening
restaurants set up inside historic buildings.
Fancy eating fi sh grilled over coconut shells under a fl y-over? For foodies
who don’t care about ambience, turn to page 42 for Jakarta’s 10 cult
dishes — then book your ticket to the city for a serious food trip.
The Borneo Jazz Festival isn’t Woodstock or Glastonbury just yet, but
maybe therein lies its appeal among its loyal fans. Smile contributor Ana
Santos fl ew in for this year’s festivities, and talked to some of the impressive,
international acts who took center stage in Jazz paradise (page 50).
Wishing you the adventure of new discoveries in every journey.
{ 9 }
Lance Gokongwei
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

page 13
chikka
The latest buzz on lifestyle, travel and celebrity news
Catch Formula One fever
in Singapore this month!
Marina Bay lights up the
race circuit.
Laugh out loud
Sometimes life throws us a snag that disrupts our happiness.
Whether it’s a botched-up itinerary, a whiny travel pal or a
bum stomach while on holiday, learn to laugh it off. How?
Turn to Tim Tayag’s Pinoy comedy flick formula
Would love to
hear from you!
Write me at
cebusmile@
ink-global.com!
(page 35) and then read our interview with
Eugene Domingo (page 36),
the wacky star of Ang Babae
sa Septic Tank. Here’s
wishing you a fun September!
For the latest updates, check out our Facebook fan page (Smile Cebu Pacific Airlines).
{ 11 }
What to wear
in Bangkok
(page 30)
The Smile team atop The Pawn in Wanchai, Hong
Kong! Left to right: Photo assistant Lulu, photo
ed Lester, stylist Crystie, makeup artist Angel,
photographer Jon, me, art director Adi, coordinator
Jaime, hairstylist Keith and model Melanie.

SINGAPORE
Sleeping Beauty
September 28–October 16
If your kids like fairy tales, they will
love being in one. Presented by
Duffl eBag Theatre from Canada,
Sleeping Beauty is an interactive
production that allows the actors
to improvise and the audience to
participate. In fact, Sleeping Beauty
and her Prince will be chosen from
the crowd! Recommended for
children fi ve to 12 years old. ACT 3
Theatre; www.sistic.com.sg
HONG KONG
Linkin Park: A Thousand Suns
World Tour 2011
September 6
Fresh from the success of their latest
album, A Thousand Suns, and their
single Iridescent, which was in the third
Transformers fi lm, Linkin Park is all set
to embark on a world tour that includes
a number of stops in Asia. Aside from
Hong Kong, the band will also be in Osaka
on September 16, Taipei on September
19, Jakarta on September 21, Bangkok
on September 23, and Singapore on
September 25 for the 2011 Formula One
SingTel Singapore Grand Prix. AsiaWorld
Expo, AsiaWorld-Arena; www.hkticketing.
com, www.lushington.com
Learn how to
whip it up like a
pro in Thailand
BANGKOK
12th Annual World
Gourmet Festival
September 5–11
For one week, you get to enjoy tasty meals,
live cooking demonstrations, wine-tasting
and tea-pairing events. Chefs like Anthony
Demetre of Wild Honey in London, Guido
Haverkock of I Portici in Italy, and Kazumi
Sawada of Hoku in Guangzhou, China are
expected to attend. Email reservations.
thailand@fourseasons.com for inquiries
and hotel packages; email wgf.bangkok@
fourseasons.com for individual dinner
tickets. Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok;
www.fourseasons.com/bangkok
Perfect
matches
Pair good food with an amazing art show
or musical, and you’re all set
{ 12 }
KUALA LUMPUR
Siemens Run 2011
September 25
On top of keeping fi t, this annual 10km run will also
motivate you to do good for the environment. To use
less paper and make the event “green”, the organizers
will accept registrations and payments online, and will
donate 100% of the proceeds to a local village in need
of electricity and clean water. The categories include the
Men and Women Open, Men Senior and Junior Veteran,
Women Veteran, Boys and Girls, Corporate Teams and
Dream Run. Dataran Merdeka, www.hooha.asia,
enquiry@hooha.asia

COURTESY OF THE SINGAPORE GRAND PRIX
SHANGHAI
SH Contemporary 2011
September 8–10
Expect a mix of Asian and international galleries, a
new photography section, and shows like First Issue for
emerging artists, Now Ink for calligraphy and ink paintings, s,
and Hot Spots for large-scale displays. Shanghai Exhibition on
Centre; www.shcontemporary.info
chikka calendar
KENDELL GEERS
SINGAPORE
2011 Formula 1 SingTel
Singapore Grand Prix
September 23–25
Will Sebastian Vettel manage his fi rst
win in Singapore, or will Fernando
Alonso make it his third? Regardless,
the world’s fi rst Formula One night race
promises a lot of action off the track —
artists like Linkin Park, Shaggy, Charice
and Rick Astley will entertain fans in
different stages around the Marina Bay
circuit. www.singaporegp.sg
SINGAPORE
Disney Live! Mickey’s Music
Festival
September 7–11
Not only does the festival feature Mickey,
Minnie, Donald Duck and Goofy, it also
includes Ariel and Sebastian from The
Little Mermaid, Aladdin, Jasmine and the
genie from Aladdin, and Woody, Buzz
and Jessie from Toy Story. They’ll dance
and sing to reggae, pop, rock and country
music, and entertain you with fl ying
carpets, an underwater world, and even a
rodeo boogie. Grand Theatre, Marina Bay
Sands; www.sistic.com.sg
{ 13 }
YEHUDIT SASPORTAS
MACAU
23rd Macau International
Fireworks Display Contest
September 10, 12, 17 and 24,
and October 1
Established in 1989 to celebrate Macau’s
colorful history, the contest has become
one of the city’s most exciting events.
The choreographed fi reworks display has
attracted a lot of international competitors
over the years, and from fi ve teams it has
now grown to 10, with countries like China,
the Philippines, Australia and the UK
participating. www.macautourism.gov.mo
check
it out
MANILA
In the Heights
September
2–18
Atlantis Productions
brings the Tony awardwinning
musical to life.
Taking on the roles of a vibrant
group of characters in Manhattan’s
Washington Heights are guitarist
Nyoy Volante, veteran actress
Jackie Lou Blanco, singer and
stage actor Calvin Millado and Miss
Saigon alum Ima Castro. Carlos P
Romulo Auditorium, RCBC, Makati
City; www.ticketworld.com.ph
MANILA
China Crisis and
Ex-Simple Minds Live
September 9
Relive the 1980s with “the superstars
of the new romantics movement,”
as they perform an array of hits like
Wishful Thinking and Don’t You
Forget About Me. SMX Convention
Center, Mall of Asia Complex, Pasay
City. www.ticketworld.com.ph,
www.steveoneal.com.ph

Want your pic
published?
Send it to us
with your story
at mysnapshot@
cebusmile.com
chikka click
my
snapshot
During one of my visits to the port of General
Santos City, there was a group of Badjao
boys in a wooden banca asking the passengers
of a commercial boat to throw coins into the
water. The boys would then recover the coins
by diving into the water. This Badjao boy was
the leader of the pack.
{ 14 }
Smile reader Guesler Roquero captures
a moment in time in General Santos

Female bonding
Invite your girlfriends to a staycation full of indulgent
spa treats at CHI The Spa, gourmet dining options,
and shopping vouchers and discounts courtesy of
Edsa Shangri-La. The fi ve-star hotel’s Girlfriends’
Getaway room package at the exclusive Garden
Wing includes all of these perks starting at
PHP9,000 a night until December 31, 2011.
Book now! Tel: +63 (2) 633 8888,
reservations.esl@shangri-la.com
hear
say
Soundbites
you can use
DISCOVER NEW
Dive spots
chikka buzz
“There are so many amazing things to see in the
Philippines: the thresher sharks in Malapascua, the
WWII wrecks in Coron, and the manta rays in Ticao. So
whenever I travel, I check out the underwater attractions
of a place — especially if they aren‘t popular dive sites
yet, because they could yield great surprises. I went to
Romblon recently, and was told of both a ‘blue hole‘ (an
underwater cavern) and the remains of a Spanish-era
galleon.” Kristine Fonacier, contributing editor for
Lonely Planet Magazine Philippines
{ 16 }
Where to eat in
MALAYSIA
By Robyn Eckhardt, contributing writer,
Travel+Leisure South-East Asia. Follow her at
eatingasia.typepad.com
“In George Town — a UNESCO World Heritage Site
in Penang, Malaysia — you’ll find Tek Sen, a 20-plusyear-old
family-run restaurant in an old shophouse
that serves Chinese/Teochew Malaysian food with
some Penang Nyonya specialties thrown in. My
favorites include the tamarind prawns, gulai tumis
(fish in a spicy-sour gravy), twice-cooked pork aka
‘bacon candy’ (char yoke, or roasted pork stir-fried
with black soy sauce and chilies) and kang kong
stir-fried with belacan (shrimp paste). It is always
crowded so be prepared to wait for a table.”
Cebu Pacifi c fl ies to Kuala Lumpur from Manila.
Train company KTMB serves a daily route to
Butterworth, Penang.
TELL A TOURIST:
BACOLOD
beyond inasal
“Aside from inasal (grilled chicken),
Bacolod’s cansi (boiled bone in beef shank)
houses are to die for. They’re not very
fancy, but the food is sinfully delicious!
My personal favorite is Sharyn’s Cansi
House located along Narra Avenue at the
Chinatown of Bacolod.” Hannah Faith
Dormido, freelance writer
TEXT MABEL DAVID-PILAR

Check in
all your luggage
“I don’t like long lines at airports and for
some reason security always goes through
my bags. If you’ve ever seen me pack you
would understand that it’s a disaster and the
second they open the bag it’s like a jack-inthe-box.
They start going through it and then
they just leave it. Then I’m the girl at the
airport trying to put everything back together.
So now I just check everything. I don’t do
carry-on anymore.
Sarah Michelle Gellar, star of the new
mystery TV series Ringer
Celebrity
trip tips
Learn some savvy travel ideas from
these frequent fl ying Hollywood stars!
Don’t
overpack
“I am the queen of the carry-on. Because I
travel so much I have learned that you really
don’t need that many things. So I’m very
specifi c in what I pack. It might take me a little
longer, but I love not having to wait for luggage.
Plus the fact that things get lost all the time,
too. So I love the carry-on. Bring your
favorites and go and enjoy your trip.”
Ali Larter, actress, Heroes
chikka buzz
Avoid
caffeine
“I don’t think caffeine is a good idea on
the fl ight or when you arrive, trying to
get over jetlag. You just have to get into
the time zone and go with it. It makes
for a hazy, dreamy state of being.”
Sofi a Coppola, director of the
indie fi lm Somewhere
{ 18 }
Take
an mp3 player
and magazines
“I always take my iPod with me, a book and a
few magazines. I like Rolling Stone, or Vogue,
those are probably the two that I take. Usually I
sleep, even before take-off! I sleep a lot which is
good, because with all the travelling I would be
dead to the world.”
Jessica Szohr, star
of Gossip Girl
Shut
out the world
“I always take a comfy jumper. I drink lots
of water when I travel and take my iPod —
it’s good for all that hanging around. And a
good book. I love fl ying. I love it, it’s great,
because no one can get at you. Phones
don’t work, internet doesn’t work so you’re
literally forced to relax, it’s great.”
Emma Watson, star of Harry Potter
and the Deathly Hallows
Watch
out for families
“I’m a person you don’t want to get behind
at the moment. I have a baby carriage and
baby regalia, and you should look out for
families, with babies. And strollers. My
husband can break the stroller down in 30
seconds fl at and he’s getting better at it.”
Vera Farmiga, actress,
Source Code
TEXT NICOLE BERGER AND LISA GORMAN / CELEBRITEXT

Happy wherever after
“We basically fi lm one of the happiest days of
[people’s] lives and you can’t beat that — it’s a
happy event to fi lm and preserve for posterity.
So far, we’ve already traveled to Austria,
Manchester, Sydney, Los Angeles, New York,
San Francisco, and most of South-East Asia for
shoots. Hopefully, we’ll be in Paris this month.”
On destination weddings
“The Cebu weddings are always special —
they’re so festive and the people are very
warm. Macau also lives up to its mini-Vegas
reputation. The Venetian is opulent and lush
— the perfect venue for the 1,000-person
weddings they have.”
Shooting tips from a pro
“Here’s a sort of anti-advice: Before pulling out
your videocam, just enjoy, soak everything
in and immerse yourself. Never prioritize the
gadget, fuss over your cam, and forget to enjoy
the moment. That said, keep your fi nger away
chikka buzz
People fly this guy
around the world
to shoot their
weddings!
slick traveler:
Jason Magbanua
The internationally renowned videographer, who’s constantly
on the move to shoot weddings all over the globe, shares his
favorite destinations for “I do’s”
from the zoom button and keep it steady.”
Favorite escapes
“No matter what other jaded people say, I
just love Boracay for its beaches and vibe.
The weddings we shoot there are always a
treat too. Singapore is also a favorite, because
the fi rst-world experience can be found
somewhere so close to home. “
Keeping it light
“I always pack light and bring only what I need,
because I have to allow weight for the gear.
[But] for something portable [on vacation], I still
have the Lumix LX3. It has a nice wide lens
and it’s great in low light. It shoots video too. If
I feel like it, I’ll bust out my [Lomo] LC-A+ and
shoot fi lm.”
Travel must-have
“I love to read so I like to have a nice legal or
detective thriller on hand. Or at least the latest
issue of Wired or Rogue.”
{ 20 }
Enjoy sweet dreams on
Sofi tel Guangzhou’s
signature bedding
Perfect
endings
CAP YOUR EVENING with a bit
of fun and excitement — or with
something calm and soothing
Sweet dreams
Rest well with MyBed, Sofi tel’s
signature bedding. The hotel chain
recently opened Sofi tel Guangzhou
Sunrich — the “fi rst French luxury
hotel” in the city. Conveniently
located in the Tianhe business
district near the East Railway
Station, it has fi ve elegant bars
and restaurants, a spa and fi tness
center. “A good night’s sleep and
a balanced meal are good ways
for travelers to detoxify,” advises
general manager Christophe Lauras.
“Engaging in sports can also help
you de-stress and remain in shape
too. Pamper yourself by going to the
spa — our So SPA with L’Occitane
tailors treatments for families.”
www.sofi tel.com
Lively shows
The choices are endless at
Bangkok’s 13th International
Festival of Dance and Music from
September 9 to October 16. There’s
fl amenco by the Ballet Nacional
España, a contemporary dance
performance by Canada’s MOVE:
dance company, gymnastics by
Denmark’s Flying Superkids, and
The Blue Planet Live! BBC fi lm
with an orchestra and choir.
www.bangkokfestivals.com
TEXT MABEL DAVID-PILAR (SLICK TRAVELER) AND CHARMAINE BAYLON

1
Hook
me up
These clever trimmings are
perfect for your favorite tablet
and mobile gadgets
2
1 Verbatim Wireless
Bluetooth Mobile Keyboard
Connected via Bluetooth, this ultra-thin and
foldable keyboard comes in handy when
you don’t feel like typing on your iPhone or
iPad’s touchscreen. US$79.99 (PHP3,398),
available at Fry’s Electronics. www.frys.com
3 Urbanears Plattan
Headphones
Shut the world out with a pair of headphones
that provides rich, secluded sound. Want to
share? Its exclusive “zound plug” allows a
second user to plug in and enjoy the music
with you. It also folds up to the size of your
fi st for a quick stash in your bag. Urbanears
Plattan Headphones are compatible with
the iPhone, Nokia, HTC and Blackberry
phones, and available in 14 colors. US$59.99
chikka chik
gadgets
4
(PHP2,548). www.urbanears.com,
Karmaloop.com
3
3 Portable USB
Charging Station
Thanks to this charging station, you can travel
light with less chargers — it accommodates
three USB devices with just one AC plug.
Its neat cable storage design also prevents
cords from tangling, while its specialized port
syncs and backs up your data while charging.
US$99.99 (PHP4,248). www.AViiQ.com
4 Smart Case
Protect your iPad with a case that’s made of
high-quality anodized aluminum. It matches
the iPad 2’s sleek look and comes in black,
silver, green, blue, orange, pink and red too.
US$49.99 (PHP2,124). www.AViiQ.com
{ 22 }
A hostel for
flashpackers
Back to
the 80s
The entertainment loft
at Matchbox
WITH A GROWING niche of travelers called
fl ashpackers — aka affl uent backpackers —
comes a new type of lodging to meet their
needs. Matchbox The Concept Hostel is the
only fl ashpacker hostel in Singapore (and
all of South-East Asia), featuring exclusive
custom-made pod-style dormitories.
Located in Ann Siang Hill — a stylish
neighborhood of fashion boutiques, trendy
bars and a wide variety of restaurants —
Matchbox has three room types: a ladiesonly
boudoir, premium two-bed dorm and
an 18-bed mixed dorm (couples beds are
available). There’s also an entertainment loft
and sitting room for socializing with fellow
travelers. Rates start from S$45 (PHP1,580)
nett per pod per night (inclusive of all-day
breakfast). 39 Ann Siang Road; pillowtalk@
matchbox.sg
NEXT MONTH, brace yourself for
some vintage pop music that’ll take
you back to the good old 1980s.
Ovation Productions presents three
of the era’s best performers — The
Human League, Howard Jones and
Belinda Carlisle live in Manila on
October 10 at the SMART Araneta
Coliseum. Enjoy live performances
of timeless hits such as Don’t You
Want Me (The Human League),
What Is Love? (Howard Jones)
and Heaven is a Place on Earth
(Belinda Carlisle). Tickets, available
at all TicketNet outlets, range from
PHP530 to PHP7,395. Tel: +63 (2)
911 5555; www.ticketnet.com.ph
TEXT MABEL DAVID-PILAR (GADGETS) AND MAYA O CALICA

chikka reviews
Cool-aborations
These hits prove that two, three or more talents
working together are better than one
Cars 2 Original Motion Picture Soundtrack
Composer Michael Giacchino scores a win with the soundtrack of the second Cars fi lm. To
match the movie’s exciting pace and global setting — race car Lightning McQueen (Owen
Wilson) and tow truck Mater (Larry the Cable Guy) travel to Japan and Europe for the World
Grand Prix — the producers got artists like American country music star Brad Paisley, British
performer Robbie Williams and rock band Weezer, French singer-songwriter Bénabar, and
Japanese girl band Perfume to contribute. Expect lots of variety, with pop (You Might Think),
rock ‘n’ roll (Collision of Worlds — a Paisley and Williams duet) and electropop (Polyrhythm).
Watch the
Throne
by Jay-Z
and Kanye
West
Their reputations
as hip-hop
royalty are enough to get this record the
attention it deserves, but the two still turned
to the usual practice of featuring other
artists in a couple of tracks — there’s Otis
Redding in Otis, Frank Ocean in No Church
in the Wild and Made in America, and even
Beyoncé in Lift Off — which made the
whole collection a bit more interesting.
Hell: The
Sequel by
Bad Meets
Evil
Together with
rapper Royce Da
5’9”, Eminem
fi nds another outlet for his very honest
observations on fame, other artists and
the celebrity lifestyle. A bit surprising,
though, is hearing Bruno Mars sing in the
track, Lighters. But the formula for this
collaboration of artists seems to have
worked — the CD topped the Billboard 200
albums chart.
{ 24 }
Books for
the journey
The Day I Ate
Whatever I Wanted
by Elizabeth Berg
Revisit this bestseller, which has
been updated with one short story,
and its intriguing take on the different
women who deal with issues
like love, food, aging, death and
relationships in their own way.
Seven Seasons in
Siena by Robert Rodi
The city of Siena in Italy is pictureperfect;
but to really appreciate its
charm, you’d have to dig deeper.
The writer does so in seven trips
that introduce him to bareback
horseracing, the food and kitchens,
and its people’s many quirks.
TEXT CHARMAINE BAYLON

TEXT NIKKA SARTHOU
Q&A:
Anna
Oposa
At just 23, she’s championed
environmental rights as a youth
ambassador and co-founded
Save Philippine Seas. She tells
Smile what drives her passion.
How did you become an
environmental advocate?
My dad pioneered environmental law in the
Philippines in the late ‘80s, so when my
brothers and I were growing up, we would be
brought to different projects — reforestation
in Mt Maragundon and Cavite, and rescuing
marine creatures in the Visayan Sea.
What past projects are you
proudest of?
In 2009, my friend Kester and I pioneered
Isko Cleans UP, which aimed to implement
waste management in the University of the
Philippines (UP) Diliman. We were able to
have Styrofoam packaging banned in the
school, among other things. This year, I
became more active in marine conservation.
I testifi ed at the fi rst Senate hearing regarding
the plunder of our coral reefs.
What are you doing to
make a difference?
Working full time for the environmental NGO
The Law of Nature (www.thelawofnature.
ph), is the best job in the world. It allows
me to pursue the advocacies I feel strongly
about. Right now, it’s environmental law
enforcement and marine conservation. Our
NGO has a school in Cebu called the School
of the SEA (Sea and Earth Advocates),
an experiential learning center, where we
teach people about sustainable living. I also
co-founded Save Philippine Seas (www.
savephilippineseas.com) with a handful
of incredible individuals, and our site is
dedicated to anything and everything about
chikka buzz
Anna Oposa scuba diving
with friends in Anilao
the Philippine seas. We write and expose
issues, put pictures showing our rich marine
resources, and blog about upcoming projects
and events.
Why the Philippine seas?
The Philippines is in the center of marine
biodiversity in the world — even foreign
studies have said this. We have more species
of coral than the entire Caribbean Sea and the
Great Barrier Reef. This is not just a source
of pride, but also a reason to take greater
measures to protect the seas.
Any advice to the willing?
We have to be brave enough to start our own
campaigns and projects. I started by being the
change I wanted to see in the world. You can’t
teach what you can’t give.
{ 27 }
She’s saving the
seas for future
generations!
Anna’s “green”
travel tips
From booking to packing
• Book online and print e-tickets on
used or recycled paper.
• Avoid buying toiletries in sachets.
Fill reusable plastic containers with
your existing bathroom products.
• Pack rechargeable batteries,
recyclable shopping bag, water
bottle and utensils.
Before leaving the house
• Switch off all lights, unplug all and
close all water outlets.
• For long trips, stop your
newspaper subscription. You’ll save
money and reduce waste as well.
Take off and landing
An airplane consumes the most
gas during takeoff and landing
(about 25% of the total fl ight fuel
for small planes). So choose direct
fl ights and go for collective public
transportation once you arrive in
your destination.

TEXT TARA FT SERING
Healthy eats
at Dusit
DUSIT INTERNATIONAL, one of Asia’s
leading hotel groups, in collaboration with
healthy-eating expert and internationally
renowned celebrity chef and author
Daniel Green, introduces the “Eat Well,
Feel Well” program, providing guests
with a full healthy diet menu. “Eat Well,
Feel Well” healthy menus — available
at all Dusit hotels and resorts across the
Philippines, Thailand, Dubai and Cairo —
include a selection of low-calorie recipes
from a wide range of cuisines for breakfast
to appetizers, soups, main dishes and
desserts. The program follows a classic
formula of style and substance — healthy
dishes are creatively plated by Chef Green,
making for meals that are also visual
feasts. www.dusit.com
Songs from
cinema’s best
LOVE MOVIE soundtracks? In
Behind the Scenes, the Singaporebased
PsalmiDeo Chorale will
serenade you with songs from
cinematic hits such as Titanic, An
Affair to Remember, Schindler’s
List and The Lion King. Also on the
evening’s repertoire: the title themes
from Filipino classics such as Dahil
sa Iyo and Sana’y Wala nang
Wakas. Catch the show on October
2, 7.30pm, at the Concert Hall of
the Singapore Conference Hall.
www.facebook.com/PsalmiDeo
chikka buzz
Make a
difference
The British Council and Starbucks
dare you to change the world
CALLING ALL young social entrepreneurs —
now’s your chance to up your game, make
your bright ideas a reality, and build a better
world. The British Council, in partnership
with Starbucks, launches its third annual
I am a Changemaker competition for 2011, a
search for the best social enterprise business
plan to be awarded start-up seed money
(PHP100,000 to each of four youth groups,
{ 29 }
The students
behind the
winning Isla
Culion Souvenirs
with members aged 16 to 28 years old,
representing Luzon, Visayas, Mindanao and
the National Capital Region). A special prize
of PHP100, 000 called the Starbucks Shared
Planet Award will also be awarded to the
fi nalist group that best exemplifi es Starbucks’
commitment to being a responsible company
by being good to the planet and to each other.
Last year’s winning do-gooders and game
changers included The Good Food Company,
an urban fresh-and-healthy food service that
also helps organic farmers earn a sustainable
income, and Isla Culion Souvenirs, a studentrun
company that helps spur tourism in Culion
Island and promotes the welfare of indigenous
people in the area through a souvenir shop.
The contest will accept applications until
September 23. Tel: +63 (2) 914 1011 to 14
(look for Ana Tan or Jennifer Domingo),
www.britishcouncil.org.ph

Wrap it Cotton scarf,
THB650 (PHP910),
Jim Thompson.
For her Subculture color
block top, PHP1,290, The Ramp
Crossings. Mimi Shop green
shorts, PHP595, Mimi Shop
Archeology, Powerplant Mall.
Slip on Substance
sandals, PHP1,799,
Rustan’s Dept Store.
In the shade
Floppy hat, PHP395,
SM Dept Store.
chikka style
Vivid colors in Bangkok’s floating market
City of
brights
When in the Thai capital, mimic
the vibrant hues of the city in your
wardrobe. waardrobe.
Styled by Mikka Padua
Carry this Woven
straw tote, PHP1,299,
www.chicify.com
{ 30 }
For him Mundo white polo,
PHP400, The Ramp Crossings.
Clay printed T-shirt, THB220
(PHP308) and chambray shorts,
THB360 (PHP504), Chatuchak
Weekend Market. Garrison belt,
PHP240, Robinsons Dept Store.
Lace ‘em up Mundo
cotton sneakers, PHP1,550,
The Ramp Crossings.
YOUR SHOPPING
DIRECTORY
Chatuchak Weekend Market
Kamphaengphet Station MRT, Bangkok
www.chatuchak.org
Jim Thompson
9 Surawong Rd., Suriyawong,
Bangrak, Bangkok
www.jimthompson.com
Robinsons Department Store
Robinsons Galleria, EDSA corner
Ortigas Avenue,Quezon City, www.
robinsonsdepartmentstore.com.ph
Rustans Department Store
Glorietta Mall, Ayala Avenue, Makati
City, www.rustans.com.ph
The Ramp Crossings
Glorietta 3 and 4, Ayala Center,
Makati City
PHOTOS LOUIE AGUINALDO (STILLS)

chikka eat and drink
Mid-autumn
feasts
This month, celebrate with a Chinese
lauriat at these sumptuous
restaurants around the network
Yat Tung Heen
Eaton Smart Hotel, 380 Nathan Road,
Kowloon, Hong Kong, tel: +852 2782 1818
(dim sum/a la carte: 11am–4pm [Mon-Sat],
and 9am–4pm [Sun and public holidays]; a la
carte: 6pm–11pm)
WHAT IS IT A traditional Chinese restaurant
that has earned a loyal following thanks to its
one-Michelin star, Executive Chef Tam.
CROWD PLEASERS The melt-in-your-mouth
suckling pig and deep-fried pumpkins served
with pancakes infused with a sweet and sour
pomelo sauce. Other favorites are the baked
rice with pan-fried chicken and air-dried
tangerine, and the vegetarian special —
marinated bean curd with spice sauce. From
September till October 31, try their specials
during the hairy crab season.
Baked rice with pan-fried
chicken and air-dried tangerine
TRIED AND TASTED “The suckling pig is
absolute perfection in every bite.” Carmela
Yang, account executive
Cebu Pacifi c fl ies to Hong Kong from Clark,
Cebu and Manila. www.cebupacifi cair.com
{ 32 }
Marinated bean curd
with spice sauce
You’ll love Passion’s
dim sum buffet
Passion
2/F, Maxims Tower, Resorts World Manila,
Manila, tel: +63 (2) 908 8875 (open daily
11am–2.30pm [lunch]; 6pm–10pm [dinner])
WHAT IS IT A 400-seat, fi ne dining
Cantonese restaurant in the plush, six-star
Maxims Tower hotel.
CROWD PLEASERS The all-you-can-eat
dim sum buffet (PHP750) is a must-try.
Help yourself to prawn, pork, chicken feet,
barbecued spare ribs, fried rice, and noodles.
TRIED AND TASTED “Passion’s dim sum
spread was tasty and excellent.” Mica
Kerkdijk, travel agent, MBM Classic Travel
Cebu Pacifi c fl ies to Manila from across the
network. www.cebupacifi cair.com
Taste the Divine Queen (mini
snow-skin durian mooncake)
Szechuan Court
Level 3, Fairmont Singapore, 80 Bras Basah
Road, Singapore; tel: +65 6431 6156 (for
lunch: 12pm–2.30pm [Mon–Fri]; dinner:
6.30pm–10.30pm [daily])
WHAT IS IT A restaurant with great
Szechuan and Cantonese “home cooking”.
CROWD PLEASERS The oven-baked cod
in garlic brown sauce served with poached
spinach and smoked duck. Until September
12, order the Divine Queen, a new frozen
delight packed with fl avorful Durian pulp.
TRIED AND TASTED “The Szechuan
smoked duck is a dish I’m going back for.”
Chris Ty, entrepreneur
Cebu Pacifi c fl ies to Singapore from Cebu,
Manila and Clark. www.cebupacifi cair.com
TEXT MAYA O CALICA. PHOTOS LESTER LEDESMA (YAT TUNG HEEN)

Amansinaya
Mountain
Resort
A relaxing retreat in
Amansinaya Mountain Resort
With its lush greenery, hilly landscape, and
magnifi cent mountain views, Amansinaya
Mountain Resort is the perfect place to take a
break from the hustle and bustle of city life. Just
a couple of hours drive to the south of Metro
Manila, you will fi nd a hideaway where you can
commune with nature while you revitalize your
body and soul.
Located in Laurel, Batangas, the resort is
close enough to the city and offers a tranquil
environment where you can get your muchneeded
rest and relaxation. Guests could enjoy
either a day trip or an overnight stay in the resort,
which includes the use of the Pugad Lawin
Adventure Camp, Amansinaya Aqua Park, Patio
Filipino clubhouse, and either the casatels or nipa
huts for long-staying guests.
Nature tripping in
Amansinaya
What makes Amansinaya Mountain Resort
different from others is its proximity to Ambon
Ambon Falls, which is just one hour away by
foot. You may join the scenic trek to the waterfalls
where you will pass through hills and streams. The
long walk will be worth it as you will be rewarded
with a breathtaking view of the majestic waterfalls.
Another must-see is the nearby Simbahang
Bato which is actually made from natural rock
formations that the locals dressed up with an altar
and pews.
Outdoor games in Pugad
Lawin Adventure Camp
Have you ever seen a 100m-long mudslide?
The resort’s adventure camp features this thrilling
activity and other enjoyable activities such as
promotional feature
wall climbing, giant soccer ball, sumo challenge,
gladiator challenge, zipline, low ropes, and even
a bonfi re pit to enhance your outdoor experience.
You will fi nd this venue ideal for team building,
camping, parties, and company outings, among
others.
Water fun in Amansinaya
Aqua Park
Playing in the pool is entertaining for both kids
and adults in Amansinaya. The resort has several
swimming pools where you can chill out and
spend a day of leisure. Try the 50m 2 wading pool
in each of the casatels, or the 70m 2 pool in the
Patio Filipino clubhouse. But you must not miss
out on the resort’s aqua park — this 700m 2 water
heaven has its own kiddie pool, adult pool, kiddie
playground, giant frog slide, basketball play, and
even has provisions for beach volleyball.
Utmost comfort in the
casatels and nipa huts
The two Asian-inspired casatels — Casa Amman
and Casa Bora — feature eight air-conditioned
rooms and a pool where guests can lounge in their
Get away from city life and be inspired by nature’s beauty in Amansinaya Mountain Resort!
{ 34 }
own time and place. The resort plans to build a
total of 20 casatels, wherein rooms are actually
condotels that are open to potential buyers for
investment purposes. You will enjoy the strategic
location of the existing casatels as these are
walking distance from the aqua park. For those
who prefer simpler accommodations, there are
non-air-conditioned nipa huts near the adventure
camp area where you can experience truly being
one with nature.
The local flavors of
Patio Filipino
Sample the fi ne fl avors of Filipino food while
enjoying the view of the waterfalls from Patio
Filipino. The clubhouse can accommodate
guests in its indoor and open-air areas. Try the
mouthwatering local cuisine — some of which
are made with ingredients that come from
the resort’s small vegetable and poultry farm.
Patio Filipino is also a nice venue for seminars,
conferences, and other events as well. You
may even schedule a soothing body massage
in one of the massage huts that surround
the venue.
Amansinaya Mountain Resort
Resort address: Brgy San Gabriel, Laurel, Batangas. Offi ce address Amansinaya Resorts, Inc, 4th fl oor
PGMC Building, 76 Calbayog corner Libertad Streets, Mandaluyong City. Tel: +63 (2) 534 2051 local
115, +63 (2) 532 3596, +63 (2) 532 5789. Mobile: +63 (920) 960 2120, +63 (927) 674 5682, +63
(916) 636 7033, +63 (922) 299 5772, +63 (932) 399 2536, +63 (920) 914 4461.
Websites: www.amansinayaresorts.com, www.pugadlawin.com.ph

ILLUSTRATION DAVID TANG A
recipe
for laughs
Filipino comedies have
a formula that’s guaranteed to
make audiences roll in the aisles,
and producers roll in the profi ts.
Tim Tayag lets you in
on the secret weapons
HOLLYWOOD BOX OFFICE hits have their
blueprints for success and so do Filipino funny
fi lms. Although Pinoy comedies are cheap to
produce, they cash in with viewers who love
slapstick fl icks with obvious double entendre
titles such as Tanging Ina Mo and Tanging
Ina Mo Rin (sorry, no English translations
available). Based on my years of careful
research, here are the elements that assure a
blockbuster comedy in Philippine Cinema.
The “Acheche”
For the uninitiated to Pinoy comedies,
“Acheche!” is the sound made by the
comedian to indicate a punch line — or to
substitute the lack of one. For example, let’s
say the hero is on a blind date and is expecting
the girl to be pretty. But it turns out she’s ugly;
so the fi rst time the hero lays eyes on her he
screams, “Acheche!” with a matching funny
face. Joey de leon and Vic “Bossing” Sotto
have maximized this effect all the way to the
box offi ce. “Ngyek!” and “Ngyecheche!” are
also popular variations of this device. Without
these sound bites, there is no way for the
audience to know when to laugh.
The shampoo switcheroo
This is one of the oldest tricks in the book.
While someone is taking a shower, the hero
sneaks into the bathroom and exchanges the
bottle of shampoo with glue (or some other
chemical designed for hilarity). The person
showering unsuspectingly takes the glue and
applies it to his hair, causing his hands to get
stuck to his head. He comes out of the shower
looking ridiculous — to everyone’s delight,
of course!
chikka laugh trip
The beach trip (with optional
“Acheche”)
At some point in a Pinoy comedy, the
characters embark on a road trip to the beach
so that they can showcase their musical skills
in a song and dance number (yes, just like
in Bollywood fi lms). The director milks the
location by adding gratuitous bikini scenes and
short sketches that have nothing to do with
the plot. The hero ogles the ladies and applies
sunblock on them, while some plus-sized
talent loses her underwear in the ocean, to
which someone screams “Acheche!”. The
scene ends with a fake shark or merman
chasing everyone out of the water to a bouncy
soundtrack.
{ 35 }
The chase scene
This is the backbone of every Pinoy comedy
fl ick and the reason audiences pay PHP180
to see the movie. Basically, the hero runs
while bad guys chase him. The hero enters
some museum or warehouse with statues
and pretends to be a statue himself. The bad
guys, who have no experience with statues or
sculptures, walk past the hero, slowly missing
him completely. The humor increases when
the bad guys mistake the hero for an ashtray
by tapping their burning cigarettes on his hand.
The hero is in pain but has to keep still for the
sake of his life. And that is the essence of a hit
Pinoy comedy fi lm — being able to painfully
keep still until the movie comes to an end.

Yes woman
Smile chats with Ang Babae sa Septic Tank’s star
Eugene Domingo on kissing hunks
and more. Text by Mae Young
BEFORE HER BREAKOUT role/s as twin
heiresses in 2009’s Kimmy Dora, Eugene
Domingo wasn’t a household name. So when
the Piolo Pascual-produced comedy struck
gold at the box offi ce, fans thought she was an
overnight success. Truth is, it took 20 years of
hard work for her to get here. Her secret? She
kept saying yes to acting opportunities.
“There are no small roles, only small
actors,” says Domingo, who has appeared
in over 30 TV shows and more than 60
fi lms. Her “yes” attitude isn’t from a lack of
discrimination — Domingo will take on a role
“for as long as I know I will learn something
new and will enjoy the company.” Her most
recent role in the
indie fi lm Ang Babae
sa Septic Tank gave
her all that and more;
it won her the Best
Actress award at this
year’s Cinemalaya
Festival. It was a
fi rst in the festival’s
seven-year history that the award
went to a comedy star, and also the
fi rst time an indie festival entry was
a commercial hit — the fi lm grossed
PHP20 million on its opening week,
affi rming that Domingo is certifi ed
box offi ce material.
How it all began
Domingo’s love affair with performing
started when a friend gave her a
free ticket to watch the staging of
Dalagang Bukid at the CCP. “It was
magical for me, seeing the actors singing,
dancing, acting and sometimes talking to the
audience,” she recalls. “It was like watching
and living a dream.” Shortly after, she enrolled
in theater arts at UP Diliman, where she honed
her acting chops on the stage.
Her efforts have paid off, and now Domingo
is living a dream too. ABC TV5 signed her
to host Lucky Numbers, a live weekly game
show from the London franchise. As of press
time, she is working on P’Wedding Tayo,
P’Wedding Hindi with Toni Gonzaga where
she gets to kiss hunky leading man, Bubble
Gang’s Wendell Ramos. She’s locked lips with
Dingdong Dantes in Kimmy Dora and Diether
Ocampo in Mamarazzi, but she considers her
onscreen smooch with Richard Gutierrez in
My Valentine Girls as her most memorable
one. “It was the longest and the most tender
kiss I have done so far… onscreen and maybe
On kissing co-star Richard Gutierrez:
“It was the longest and most tender kiss
I have done…onscreen and maybe
offscreen in a long, long while”
{ 36 }
Eugene Domingo on the set of
Ang Babae sa Septic Tank
offscreen in a long, long while,” Domingo
said. “After the take, I was so embarrassed
that I couldn’t even look at him!” When
they watched the scene together during the
playback, she confessed how embarrassed
she felt to her leading man. “He asked me
why, and I said, ‘Eh si Richard Guttierez ka
kaya!’” eliciting laughs from the actor. “That’s
how it [probably] feels to be kissed by Prince
Charming!” she says. “I tell you, in the movies,
anything is possible.”
Preparing for a role
While some actors attend intense acting
workshops, gain or lose weight, or learn a new
sport to get into character, Domingo’s prep
work is simple. After talking to her director and
reading the script, “I ask for a look test so that
I will know how to dress up for the role, or if I
should wear a wig. My appearance and styling
should be appropriate to
the character I’m playing
so that my job will be
easier.” Her dream role?
“A scene with Meryl
Streep when she fi nally
learns how to speak
Tagalog!”
In Ang Babae sa
Septic Tank, she plays herself — a role
she thoroughly enjoyed. “I loved doing
the Eugene Domingo Scene in the
mansion,” referring to the now-famous
15-minute segment that left viewers in
stitches. “It’s just weird watching yourself
play yourself, but on a larger scale.”
Her advice to anyone who falls into
a septic tank? “Make sure it’s worth it!”
She still feels pain from a back injury
she suffered while fi lming the movie, but
she’s not complaining. “With the critical
nods and the audience choice award,
I just feel blessed being part of the fi lm.”
Will she keep saying yes to every other role
that comes her way? “I just hope to do more
fi lms that are worth my time and that of the
audience’s as well,” she says.

MAIN PHOTO RAYMUND ISAAC
chikka interview
{ 37 }

TEXT CHARMAINE BAYLON
chikka checklist
Got time?
Whether you’ve got 60 seconds
or 72 hours, these ideas will
make you look and feel good
Got 72 hours?
Leave Manila and all that stress — go to Cebu or Palawan for the weekend. Explore
Mandaue City in Cebu from Allure Hotel & Suites — the affordable accommodation is near
a lot of restaurants and the business district. Or relax by the beach in Puerto Princesa from
the Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa. Surrounded by blue waters, trees and mountains, it is a
20-minute boat ride away from the Subterranean Underground River and offers activities like
fi shing. Allure Hotel & Suites is at A S Fortuna Street, Bakilid, Mandaue City, Cebu, tel: +63
(32) 238 2828; www.allurehotel.com.ph. Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa is at Sabang Beach,
Puerto Princesa, Palawan, tel: +63 (2) 376 6968; mso@sheridanbeachresort.com
{ 39 }
Clockwise from top: Lounge
by the pool with a view at the
Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa
in Puerto Princesa; one of the
relaxing rooms in Sheridan; and
Allure Hotel & Suites in Cebu.

Catch Hong Kong Disneyland’s
Flights of Fantasy Parade —
a once-in-a-lifetime event!
chikka checklist
Got 48 hours?
This month is your last chance to enjoy Hong Kong Disneyland’s fi fth anniversary.
Take two days off from work, then fl y to Hong Kong to catch the Flights of Fantasy Parade with
Disney’s most popular characters. Stick around to see Tinker Bell sprinkle pixie dust all over
Sleeping Beauty and the Castle when night falls. www.hongkongdisneyland.com
Got 60 seconds?
Make your outfi t pop with accessories — and a great pair of shoes. Check out Gibi’s
latest line of platforms and strappy heels.They come in different colors and styles to complete
your look. Slip on the comfy fl ats if you fancy a stroll along the streets of the city you’re off to,
then pack heels for a night out on the town! From PHP1,199.75. gibi.com.ph
{ 40 }
Got three minutes?
Don’t forget to include a soothing
skincare range like Physiogel, or an acnefi
ghting herbal dietary supplement like
Bioclear, in your travel bag. Formulated
with Derma Membrane Structure (DMS)
technology, Physiogel’s Cream and Lotion
help protect and replenish your skin with
moisture. Bioclear helps calm your skin as
well, relying on herbs, traditional medicine
and natural ingredients to target acne
and infl ammation. Available at leading
pharmacies. www.physiogel.com, www.
herbpharminc.com
Got 60 minutes?
Eat pizza — the cheesy
pie can lift your mood. Have a
couple delivered by Yellow Cab
Pizza. Choose from New York’s
Finest, Manhattan Meatlovers and
#4 Cheese — and add-on sides
and appetizers like the Twice-
Baked Potato Halves and the
Charlie Chan Chicken Pasta. The
company is celebrating its 10th
year, so on top of a good meal
you also get the chance to win a
limited-edition Italian Vespa scooter.
Every PHP500 order entitles you
to one raffl e coupon. The fi nal draw
for submitted entries will be on
October 10. This offer is valid for
dine-in, takeout and delivery. www.
yellowcabpizza.com
TEXT CHARMAINE BAYLON

{ 42 }
Cult Foods
of Jakarta
Savor the dishes that locals brave
rain, distance and traffic to enjoy, and
the delicacies that tourists crave for
long after they’ve left the Indonesian
capital. Rusmailia Lenggogeni tells you
where to go for the best eats in Jakarta.
Photos by Toni Wahid
AS A MELTING POT, Jakarta is the best place to sample
Indonesia’s fi nest local and regional cuisine. Eateries range
from modest street vendors to high-end establishments, and
can crop up as quickly as they disappear from the culinary
scene. Thankfully, some old favorites remain. The majority
on this list have been catering to Jakarta’s hungry residents
for many years, and judging from the constant stream of
diners, will stick around for many more to come.
1
Nasi Uduk Kebon Kacang
Will the real Nasi Uduk Kebon Kacang please stand
up? Kebon Kacang is a maze of small, one-way
streets. Once there, you’ll see dozens of nasi uduk stalls,
each with its own cult following. Apparently though, this
is the original. The nasi uduk (rice cooked with coconut
milk and spices) is wrapped in a banana leaf and sprinkled
with fried shallots. Fragrant with lemongrass, bay leaf and
clove, the warm rice is eaten with peanut-based sambal and
assorted fried side dishes: free-range chicken, beef offal,
tempe and tofu. Portions are for small appetites, so order two
servings. Nasi Uduk Zainal Fanani, Jln Kebon Kacang VIII/5.

J AKARTA EATS
2
Sate Ayam RSPP
Owing to its location right across from Pertamina Hospital, this al fresco,
tented sate ayam (chicken satay) stall is known as Sate RSPP, although
its real name is Sate H Romli. Romli’s assistants deftly grill the marinated satays
over hot charcoal while fanning them with traditional fans instead of the nowpopular
electric fans. When done, sweet soy sauce is drizzled atop the smooth
peanut sauce before 10 skewers of glistening, juicy, slightly-charred chicken
chunks with rice cakes are mixed into the sauce. Although they also serve mutton
satay, chicken is clearly the main event. Sate Ayam H Romli, Jln Kyai Maja 21
{ 43 }

3
Otak-otak Binatu An
This modest-looking restaurant started life primarily
as a laundry business (binatu means laundry), but
its otak-otak was so popular that the proprietor decided to
concentrate on selling the grilled fi sh cakes alone. Made from
Spanish mackerel, fl our, coconut milk with herbs and spices,
then wrapped in banana leaf and grilled, the snack is eaten
with a peanut dipping sauce. The Binatu An version is slightly
bigger than usual, fi rm and chewy without a fi shy smell, and
its sauce is runny and spicy. Wash it down with its equally
famous young coconut iced drink. Otak-otak Binatu An, 23
Jln A M Sangaji, tel: +62 (21) 6386 4027.
{ 44 }
4
Gado-gado Cemara
If imitation is the highest form of fl attery, the people
behind Cemara should be fl attered indeed. Despite
their claim that they don’t have other branches, numerous
pretenders aren’t shy to appropriate the Cemara name
elsewhere. What differentiates the original from the copycats,
and lesser known gado-gado? Cashew nut. Instead of using
peanuts, Cemara uses cashews for its rich, thick, buttery
sauce. The delicate-tasting sauce is smothered onto the mix
of boiled vegetables and slices of fried tofu, topped with hot
sauce (optional) and crunchy emping crackers (similar to
kropek crackers), making a hearty yet light and healthy meal
of gado-gado. Gado-gado Cemara, Jln Wahid Hasyim 10.

J AKARTA EATS
5
Sup Buntut Hotel Borobudur
Last year, when the hotel slashed its prices for a day, the oxtail soup that
spawned numerous “cooked by ex-Borobudur chef” eateries created
a traffi c jam when hundreds queued to savor the tasty soup on an otherwise
humdrum weekday. Its secret? Boiling the imported oxtail at least three times, then
leaving it overnight to add depth to the rich broth. The hotel goes through 7,000kg
of oxtail each month to satisfy its local and foreign devotees, and counts a high
ranking Thai government offi cial and many international celebrities as fans.
Bogor Café, Hotel Borobudur, Jln Lapangan Banteng Selatan, Jakarta 10710,
tel: +62 (21) 380 5555.
{ 45 }

A TOWNHOUSE COMMUNITY NESTLED WITHIN 70% OPEN SPACES AND GREENS,
GIVING YOU A GREATER EXPANSE FOR PLAYING, BONDING AND COMMUNING
WITH NATURE. ALL PART OF THE CIRCULO VERDE MASTERPLAN.
Picture a peaceful life of leafy streets, fresh mornings and breezy afternoons, where leisurely
evening walks are a regular part of your family’s after-dinner fare. Where bike rides, picnics and
outdoor games are literally minutes away – all you have to do is step outside. It’s the kind of life
where relaxation is the rule, rather than the exception. All of this awaits you at Circulo Verde
Garden Homes.
Uncrowded with only 61 townhouse units, Circulo Verde Garden Homes is an intimate, private and
relaxing community like no other. An innovative Through-Access design of homes allows even more
space, keeping front yards free with vehicle parking tucked away neatly at the back.
Now you can live a fuller life, fulfilled in the townhouse community you’ve always wanted – at
Circulo Verde Garden Homes.
WAKE UP EVERY MORNING AND SEE GREEN AT CIRCULO VERDE GARDEN HOMES.
From the same developer of Greenhills, Valle Verde,
Green Meadows and Frontera Verde.
For announcement purposes only.
Circulo Verde
Calle Industria,
Bagumbayan,
Quezon City

6
Konro Bakar Daeng Tata
Bite into Tata’s delectable konro bakar (grilled beef
ribs) — tender, melt-in-your-mouth and fatty grilled
ribs — served at this South Sulawesi institution. The affable
owner came up with the dish when he had to cook the leftover
ribs he couldn’t use for his sop konro (ribs soup). The grilled
variety was so popular that he patented the recipe. The huge
and slightly sweet ribs are served with a hearty soup, more
sambal, a light, sweet-savory-spicy peanut sauce and lime
slices. Student-friendly prices and good service keep people
coming even after a rival konro joint opened nearby. Daeng
Tata Mamink, Jln Casablanca 33.
J AKARTA EATS
8
Ikan Bakar Babe Lili
Don’t let the eatery’s odd location (it’s under a fl y-over), the constant
billowing smoke from the grill, or the weird fi sh names (is ikan ayamayam
chicken or fi sh?) put you off from eating here. Just order the popular ikan
kambing-kambing — the fi sh is soaked with freshly squeezed calamansi juice,
grilled over coconut shells instead of regular charcoal, and then basted with a
secret marinade once the fi sh is slightly cooked. This marinade is absorbed into
every morsel of the thick, fl aky, white fi sh. Finger lickin’ good. Babe Lili, under
Gondangdia Station fl y-over.
{ 47 }
7
Pangsit Bakmi GM
Sure the name of the restaurant indicates that
this is the place to go for noodles. But actually,
everyone knows that the pangsit goreng (fried wontons) are
the real reason there is always a lengthy queue here every
lunch hour. A closely guarded family recipe churns out
wontons that crumble in your mouth with a moist, slightly
salty chicken fi lling, which invariably goes perfectly with the
accompanied sweet-and-sour dipping sauce. Out-of-towners
even come to buy these fried snacks by the box, to take
home. Talk about a loyal following. Bakmi GM, 92 Jln Gajah
Mada, tel: +62 (21) 633 4689.

9
Bakso Lapangan
Tembak
Indonesians may disagree
among themselves often, but they
certainly agree on one thing: a bowl
of piping hot bakso (beef balls in clear
soup) on a rainy day is great comfort
food. Bakso Lapangan Tembak is
arguably the most successful and
popular franchise in the capital, if not
the country. Service is super fast, and
they offer several variations of beef
ball meals. For a modern twist, try the
fried beef ball with mayonnaise. Or the
original, which can bring the toughies
to tears: tender and meaty beef balls
swimming in rich, slightly garlicky
broth. Bakso Lapangan Tembak, Jln
Gerbang Pemuda I Kel Gelora Senayan,
tel: +62 (21) 574 3879.
J AKARTA EATS
Soto betawi is a
dish you’d rather not
rave about to your
cardiologist!
10
{ 48 }
Soto Betawi Haji Husein
Here’s a restaurant you won’t want to tell your cardiologist about.
As if the regular soto betawi is not already deliciously bad for your
heart, Haji Husein fries his beef offal chunks, rendering them crisp and chewy at
the same time, before boiling them in a delicious, savory, coconut milk-based
soup. To offset the guilt, just ask for extra servings of tomato chunks. And potatoes
count as vegetables, yes? Make sure to come early, as the lunch crowd never fails
to wipe out the popular and tasty (albeit artery-busting) soto before 2pm.
Soto Betawi Haji Husein, Jln Minangkabau.
Cebu Pacifi c fl ies to Jakarta from Manila. www.cebupacifi cair.com

azz
paradise
Every year, the small, quiet town of Miri, Borneo
is transformed into the perfect stage for the
celebration of jazz music amid sand, sea and
stars. Text by Ana Santos
THE BORNEO JAZZ Festival may be
on its sixth year, with a steady fan base
from neighboring Brunei, other Sarawak
states and around the world, but the
loyal followers of this jazz festival
(formerly the Miri Jazz Festival, www.
jazzborneo.com) still treat it like a secret
kept from mainstream music audiences.
Randy Raine-Reusch, the festival’s
artistic director, fi rst thought of the
possibility of hosting a music festival
in Borneo after he discovered many
indigenous instruments in Miri. These
instruments produced tones his
musically-trained ear had never heard
of in his life.
“People around the world should
experience this,” said Raine-Reusch,
who then began shuttling between
Canada and Borneo to organize the
event. He’s been doing just that every
year since then.
Over the years, the festival has
become a highly anticipated event, with
performances by Asian and international
acts. Andi, a New Zealander based
in Brunei, has been coming to the
festival for the past three years with her
girlfriends. “It’s really something we look
forward to every year. It’s the one time
we set aside for dancing, grooving and
just having fun.”
Smile went backstage at this year’s
jazz fest to meet some of the best artists
from around the world and watch them
perform in Miri.
{ 50 }

PHOTO PEIN LEE
B ORNEO MUSIC FESTIVAL
{ 51 }
American singer Maria Muldaur wowed
the Miri crowd with her sultry vocals on
jazz songs such as her 1974 hit,
Midnight at the Oasis.
Look who turned
up for the party!

John Hammond
USA
“Something comes through me when
I perform and it’s like I’m 19 years old
again,” says 2011 Blues Hall of Fame
Inductee, John Hammond. He says this
with his eyes closed, savoring every
word. The Blues Hall of Famer has
been performing for the last 50 years,
starting out way back when the blues
was still referred to as “a black man’s
music”. “They [early musicians] saw
me and thought, ‘Let’s give this white
boy a chance.’”
Hammond has pretty much seen it
all, including playing with Jimi Hendrix
and helping the American musician —
known as the most amazing electric
guitarist in musical history — kick off
his phenomenal career. “He borrowed
US$20 from me to buy a guitar and
when he made it big, he paid me
back,” said Hammond, chuckling at
the memory.
There probably aren’t many fi rsts
anymore for someone like Hammond
who is a Grammy Award winner and
has been repeatedly voted as one of
the top 10 blues artists in the world.
But it was the fi rst time for him to play
in Miri and to bring to the islands his
own kind of purist jazz on which he
built his 50-year career. Belting on his
rack harmonica and playing his guitar,
Hammond transported everyone back
to the time when he was just 19 and
when jazz and the blues were the stuff
musical dreams were made of.
Maria Muldaur
USA
“Hell, no. I didn’t know there was a
jazz festival in Miri,” laughed sultry
and feisty songstress Maria Muldaur.
But the minute she’d heard of it, she
jumped at the chance to perform. “I’m
an oasis kind of girl. Palm trees, sun —
I’m there!” exclaimed Muldaur, slapping
her hand on the table to emphasize
her point.
Grammy winner
John Hammond
has played with the
legendary
Jimi Hendrix
An oasis of another kind is actually
what secured Muldaur’s place in the
jazz world back in 1974 when she
recorded the hit Midnight at the Oasis,
which has since become a jazz staple
and Muldaur’s personal anthem.
“Anywhere we perform, the audience
expects me to sing it — even if it
has been 35 years since it was fi rst
released.”
The third woman to be featured on
the cover of Rolling Stone magazine
and a jazz veteran who has various
{ 52 }
Grammy nominations under her
belt, Muldaur’s last fi ve decades of
performing have done nothing to
diminish the power and magic of jazz
for her. “The music gives me wings,
it lifts me up and I’m just bouncing
around on the stage, singing.” She
pretty much had the crowd doing just
that during her performance. One of
the few artists at the festival to render
songs with lyrics, she had the crowd
singing, dancing and begging for more
with her sultry renditions of blues

PHOTOS PEIN LEE (YUICHIRO TOKUDA AND VICTOR YONG BAND), SARAWAK TOURISM BOARD (CROWD)
classics. With her hair fl ailing and
tambourine thumping, Muldaur had the
crowd mesmerized from the minute
she stepped on stage; she knew just
how to keep the crowd in breathless
anticipation for that last note.
Yuichiro Tokuda’s
Ralyzz Dig
Japan
It was Yuichiro Tokuda’s fi rst time to
perform in a foreign country and there
couldn’t be a more perfect place for the
B ORNEO MUSIC FESTIVAL
band’s international debut than at the
Borneo Jazz Festival.
While Japan may still be mourning
the devastation wrought by the
tsunami, Tokuda and his band were
happy to represent the resilience of the
Japanese people and the infl uence of
music in the nation’s journey towards
healing.
“That is the beauty of instrumental
jazz,” said Tokuda, who studied Music
at Berklee Music School in Boston. “It
can capture everything you are feeling
{ 53 }
Clockwise from top: Instrumental jazz
courtesy of Yuichiro Tokuda; homecoming
artist Victor Yong; and the mixed crowd of
fans at the Borneo Jazz Festival.
and still leave you to interpret it in your
own personal way. It is in your own
interpretation that you can fi nd your
own healing, hope and inspiration.”
Yuichiro ended the band’s set by
singing Hama Venota (Song Over
the Seashore), a haunting original
composition about Japan’s relationship
with the ocean. “Though [the ocean]
may have brought a lot of destruction,
it is still a source of life for us… I felt
the need to pray through our music,”
said Tokuda.
Victor Yong and The
Electric Carnival Band
Borneo and Canada
It was a sweet homecoming for the son
of Miri, Victor Yong.
Born and raised in the small town,
Yong migrated to Vancouver, Canada
when he was only 17. It was in Canada
where he fi rst discovered jazz. “I didn’t
even know what it was, but was totally
stoked that the old guys could play
as fast and hard as the young guys,”
he chuckled. “I fi rst heard about the
Borneo Jazz Festival a couple of

PHOTOS PEIN LEE (VICTOR YONG BAND), SARAWAK TOURISM BOARD (CAS)
Clockwise from
top: Siu2 (Sheng It
Up) bandmembers
Cas and Jason Lau
tinker with ancient
instruments; Victor
Yong and The
Electric Carnival
Band perform their
brand of modern
Latin jazz.
years ago and it totally blew my mind,
‘Really?! A jazz festival in Miri?’”.
Yong came to Miri to watch the
2006 and 2007 festivals. From being
a spectator, the musician took center
stage this year as a performer. “It’s such
an honor to come back home to Miri
and play here,” he said.
A diehard fan of Latin music, Yong
says that this genre has long been a
major infl uence on him and his work.
It was his own modern Latin jazz,
improvised with his own sound that the
artist brought home to Miri.
Siu2 (Sheng It Up)
Hong Kong
The six-person band from Hong Kong
brought together an interesting mix
of old instruments for a new, eclectic
sound that thrust Asian jazz into the
B ORNEO MUSIC FESTIVAL
Cas of Siu2 (Sheng It Up) plays a
sanxian, a three-stringed lute-like
instrument that gives off an “almost
bitchin’ sound” when plucked
spotlight. Peter Ng played a xieng,
a 5,000-year-old mouth organ and
Jason Lau tinkered with a zheng, a
wooden string instrument comprised
of 12 to 13 strings, fi rst developed
some 200 years ago during the Tang
Dynasty. Cas, the only female in the
group, played a sanxian, a threestringed
lute-like instrument whose
sound they describe (when compared
{ 55 }
to the zheng) as giving off a strong,
sassy and “almost bitchin’ sound”
when plucked. The rest of the band
worked with contemporary instruments:
Peter Fan played on a baby grand
piano, Tsui Hip Lun was on drums and
Chan Hok Ming the bass. Ng, who
writes the band’s original songs, said,
“I compose the music in a symphonic
way” adding that it’s sometimes trial

Les Doigts de L’Homme
render some gypsy jazz tunes.
and error. “It may not sound exactly as
I had planned in my head so we really
need to jam together to see how it
actually sounds. From there, I rework if
needed.”
The crowd was certainly very
appreciative of SIU2’s sound and very
much intrigued by their use of historic
instruments to give off a modern sound
— a mix of old and new, which is also
very much representative of what
Chinese culture is.
Les Doigts de L’Homme
France
The group from France introduced
everyone to their own kind of jazz —
gypsy jazz — which they say actually
has its origins in France, where it
is alternatively referred to as “jazz
manouche.”
“One of our earliest infl uences is
Django Reinhardt,” said Olivier Kikteff,
the band’s frontman. He was referring
to the movement of gypsy guitarists
around Paris led by Reinhardt in the
1930s, one which paved the way for
B ORNEO MUSIC FESTIVAL
the birth of gypsy jazz.
“We are incorporating up-tempo
rhythms and elements of swing, rock
and even punk into our original music
to create our own modern gypsy jazz
sound that is also uniquely French —
and uniquely our own.”
From rock vibes to hints of punk
melodies, Les Doigts de L’Homme’s
four members (one rhythm guitarist,
two guitar soloists, and a stand-up bass
player) performed with an explosive and
almost frenetic energy on stage, inciting
the audience to get up on their feet and
dance to the music.
“We’re dedicating some of our songs
to the gypsies in Europe who, they say,
are having an especially hard time right
now with certain government policies,”
Kikteff said, adding that, “You don’t have
to be a gypsy to feel for them or love
their music.”
Cebu Pacifi c fl ies to Bandar Seri Begawan
(BSB) from Manila, www.cebupacifi cair.
com. From BSB, you can take a bus to
Miri, Borneo.
{ 56 }
JAZZ
AROUND
THE CORNER
Plan ahead for next year’s
music fests around Asia
Philippine International Jazz and
Arts Festival
Locally nicknamed as the PI Jazzfest,
the festival — which takes place around
February — is a combination of musical
performances and workshops in scattered
venues all around Metro Manila. There’s
enough to keep you busy for a musicsightseeing
trip for the two-week duration
of the festival. pijazzfest.com
Jakarta
International
Java Jazz
Festival
Singer Toni
Braxton, The
Manhattan
Transfer,
Kenny
“Baby Face”
Edmonds, John Legend and George
Duke — these big names have all taken
center stage at this annual festival
usually held in March, that draws more
than 100,000 from all over the world.
It’s one of the largest jazz festivals in the
region. web.javajazzfestival.com/2010/
Mosaic Music
Festival,
Singapore
The Singapore
River and
the Marina
Bay provide
the idyllic
backdrop to
the festival
held in March,
where jazz greats such as Pink Martini
and Au Revoir Simone have performed.
www.mosaicmusicfestival.com
For more information about other
jazz festivals in Asia, check in with
The Asian Jazz Festival Organization
(AJFO), an organization of Asian
countries that regularly hold jazz
festivals in their respective countries.
www.ajfo.com/content/about.php
PHOTO PEIN LEE (LES DOIGTS DE L’HOMME)

The hidden 'hoods
of Hong Kong
Once purely local territory, these four neighborhoods have been
transformed into hip enclaves bustling with new life that even
tourists will love. Text and photos by Lester V Ledesma
{ 58 }

H IP, HIP HONG KONG
{ 59 }
The vibrant dining scene of Tai Hang
is tucked beneath rows of apartment
blocks. Once a sleepy residential
community, it is now one of Hong Kong's
upcoming trendy neighborhoods.
SO YOU'VE BEEN to Hong Kong.
You've walked the Avenue of the Stars,
stared at the neon lights of Nathan
Road, and marveled at that worldfamous
skyline view from Victoria
Peak. You've had your shopping fi x at
Causeway Bay and can fi nd your way
around Disneyland. And you can order
dim sum like a pro.
Like any true tourist, you've seen
the must-see's and done the mustdo's.
However, it doesn't take much to
realize that you've barely scratched the
surface of this amazingly multi-layered
city. Not too far from the towering
skyscrapers are local districts brimming
with character and activity. These
concrete-borne communities throb to
their own unique rhythms, each offering
their special take on the Hong Kong
lifestyle. More importantly, to us visitors
they offer insights into what makes this
metropolis tick. The “Fragrant Harbor”
may be Asia's global city, but these
spots are where the local action is.

Clockwise from left: A cocktail drink goes
well with the view from The Pawn's second
fl oor terrace; a local family takes in the artsy
graffi ti along Wanchai's back alleys; the trendy
Monocle Shop stands amidst a local food stall.
Wanchai
You may have heard about one of Hong Kong's
most infamous places. With its legendary red lights and
ladies-for-hire, Wanchai was once a raucous party spot for
visiting sailors. This seedy side is still visible in some areas,
but the district has taken on a largely gentrifi ed feel. You can’t
miss Wanchai’s gleaming landmark as you approach its coastline
on the Star Ferry — the massive, glass-curtained Hong Kong
Convention and Exhibition Centre, a perennial host for concerts
and trade shows. Inland, one fi nds a jumble of offi ce buildings,
housing blocks and circa-1940’s tong lau shophouses. Walk
down this maze of narrow lanes and graffi ti-encrusted back
alleys until you reach the Starstreet precinct, the center
of Wanchai’s trendy dining scene. Here, take
an alfresco table, chill out with a glass of
wine, and watch life go by at
Hong Kong speed.
PHOTOGRAPHER JON TADASHI MARTIN. ART DIRECTOR ADI EFFENDY.
STYLIST CRYSTIE LI. HAIR KEITH LAU. MAKEUP ANGEL MOK.
MODEL MELANIE/ELITE. ON MELANIE: JUMPSUIT, JUICY COUTURE.
NECKLACE, AGNES B. BANGLE, STYLIST'S OWN. SHOT ON LOCATION AT
THE PAWN, WANCHAI, HONG KONG. SPECIAL THANKS TO THE TEAM AT
CATCHON (CATCHONCO.COM)
Shop
For a neighborhood that was
once soaked in raunchy repute,
Wanchai's shopping scene is
decidedly cultured. The Starstreet
vicinity hosts a cluster of concept
boutiques, among them the fl agship
store of Daydream Nation, a hip
fashion brand of local designer-siblings
Kay and Jing Wang. There’s also the
gallery-store of French clothing brand
Agnes B, which showcases visual and
installation art pieces along with its line
of smart-casual attire. Another notable
retail landmark is Monocle — the shop
version of the British culture and lifestyle
magazine — with its collection of funky
design products.
{ 61 }
Eat
Set amidst a century-old shophouse
building, The Pawn takes diners
back to colonial Hong Kong with its
beautifully restored interiors and good
old-fashioned English cuisine. The
ambience here is thick with 1930s
charm; a steep stairway leads to three
fl oors of high-ceilinged halls adorned
with Shenzhen hardwood and seriously
nostalgic furniture. The neighborhood
views from the balcony are best enjoyed
with wine and steak. Finish a nice, long
dinner here then saunter over to the
Epoch Coffee Bar for delectable desserts
— we recommend a thin apple tart with
caramel ice cream, paired with a mindjolting
Shakerato espresso.

Clockwise from
top: Classifi ed
fromagerie boasts
funky interiors
and excellent
cheese; the house
specialty at Man
Shing: a delectable,
egg-topped Meat
Mountain; photos of
visiting celebrities
adorn the wall at
Xiao Tian Gu
dessert station.
Tai Hang
Visit Tai Hang on a weekday morning and you'll
fi nd it hard to believe this is Hong Kong's soon-to-be
“hip neighborhood”. In fact, this suburban community
looks all too ordinary with its squat housing blocks sharing
space with provision shops and hardware stores. Drop by after
6pm, though, and watch the action unfold. In recent years, Tai
Hang has undergone a transformation of sorts, its sleepy streets
now host to a credible dining scene. While the offi ce folks
from nearby Central fl ock over on workday evenings, the
weekends see expats and foodies coming in from all over
Hong Kong. Sunday mornings exemplify Tai Hang's
small-town vibe, with the residents catching up
over long, leisurely brunches at the nearby
dai pai dong or open-air
food stall.
H IP, HIP HONG KONG
Shop
True to its suburban character, Tai
Hang's shopping scene consists
of groceries, incense vendors
and auto parts shops. Thankfully,
it's just a short tram ride from
Causeway Bay's many malls.
Eat
Tai Hang's restaurant row starts along
Tung Lo Wan Road, which includes
both Asian and European restaurants
along its length. Most notable among
{ 63 }
these is the Classifi ed fromagerie,
which complements its western menu
with a huge selection of cheeses and
wines. There are more cuisines to be
sampled when you saunter down Wun
Sha Street. Check out Man Shing and
treat yourself to a hefty serving of the
house favorite called Meat Mountain
— a pile of tender ground pork, topped
with sesame oil and salted egg yolk —
before capping off dinner with a bowl of
sweet milk custard at the nearby Xiao
Tian Gu dessert station.

PHOTO JON TADASHI MARTIN (TOP PHOTO)
Clockwise from top: Enjoy a night out in
Sheung Wan; incense coils hang from the
roof of the Man Mo temple; Tsui Wah's
sweet, sinful crispy buns; and faux antiques
and Mao-era memorabilia at the Upper
Lascar Row antiques market.
H IP, HIP HONG KONG
{ 65 }
Sheung Wan
Here's a neighborhood that holds a penchant for the
past. Behind Sheung Wan's gray mass of buildings is an area
whose character ranges from timeless to plain old. See it for
yourself and make a beeline from the Sheung Wan MTR station
towards Hollywood Road. You'll know you've arrived at Sheung
Wan by the smell of incense emanating from the legendary Man
Mo temple, one of Hong Kong's largest and oldest Taoist shrines.
Inside, see the locals in fervent prayer amidst smoke-fi lled
interiors and countless hanging incense coils. Outside, a
sprawling antiques market on the periphery awaits. To
explore the rest of the area, head east towards a
slew of grand colonial-era buildings along
Staunton, Caine and Hollywood
Roads.
Shop
You can choose to look at history
or, this being Hong Kong, to simply
buy it. Hollywood Road is lined with
shops bearing antique goods from old
China. The merchandise — Buddhist
statues, Ming vases and the like — is in
excellent condition but come with tag
prices to match. A cheaper (and frankly
more fun) alternative would be the
open-air curios market on Upper Lascar
Row. This strip is chock-fi lled with
kitschy faux-antique items like Uncle
Mao badges, fi gurines and even handcarved
opium pipes. Look hard and
haggle tenaciously — that perfect Hong
Kong souvenir is somewhere in here.
Eat
You can go high-class colonial or
comfortably local in Sheung Wan. The
former is exemplifi ed by The Press
Room, along Hollywood Road — a
chic French-styled bistro that serves up
excellent Western food along with an
extensive wine and cocktail menu. On
the other hand, Tsui Wah Restaurant
(there are two nearby branches)
specializes in classic favorites like
wanton noodles and creamy milk tea.
Leave space for the delectably crispy,
butter-soaked, condensed milk-covered
Hong Kong bun.

Mong Kok
This is Hong Kong in all its gritty, working-class
glory. Located on the Kowloon side, what Mong Kok
lacks in history it more than makes up for in commerce. As
shopping central, its neon-lit streets buzz with trade 24/7.
Malls and stalls teem with every imaginable merchandise,
and markets for even the most specialized needs abound.
For instance: a goldfi sh bazaar on Tung Choi street, and
a bird market on Yuen Po street, not far from the
aptly-named Flower Market road. Pulsing with
local color, Mong Kok is where you can
see Hong Kong at its wheeling,
dealing best.
Shop
Be prepared to be overwhelmed. Right
outside the MTR station is Sai Yeung
Choi street, a mecca for electronics
enthusiasts. Check out Wing Shing,
a camera store renowned for its good
service and honest prices, and the
nearby Mong Kok Computer Centre, the
local haven for IT-types. The massive
Fa Yuen street market has just about
anything China-made — from plush
toys to winter clothes, beddings and
cheap Internet tablets.
Eat
Soak in Mong Kok's busy blue-collar
vibe with a tasty meal at a humble dai
pai dong. These local eateries found
in just about every street corner serve
specialties ranging from steaming beef
brisket soups, to Hainanese chicken
rice plates and skewered Chinese
sausages. Menus don't exist here: just
look at what's cooking — if you like
what you see, order one up!
Cebu Pacifi c fl ies to Hong Kong from Cebu,
Clark and Manila. www.cebupacifi cair.com
Top to bottom:
Sai Yeung Choi
street bristles with
electronics and IT
equipment; and
a young shopper
photographs one
of the items for
sale at the Yuen
Po Bird Market.
H IP, HIP HONG KONG
FIND YOUR WAY AROUND
Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre
1 Expo Drive, Wanchai, tel: +852 2582 8888
Daydream Nation 21 Wing Fung Street, Starstreet
Precinct, Wanchai, tel: +852 2817 6313
Agnes B.’s Libraire Galerie 1/F, 18 Wing Fung Street,
Wanchai, tel: +852 2869 5505
The Monocle Shop 1 U/G, Bo Fung Mansion 1-4
St Francis Yard, Wanchai, tel: +852 2804 2323
The Pawn 62 Johnston Road Wanchai, Hong Kong,
tel: +852 2866 3444
Epoch Café 12 and 14 Regal Court, 12-16 Wing Fung
Street, Wanchai, tel: +852 3525 1570
Man Mo Temple 124-126 Hollywood Road, Sheung
Wan, tel: +852 2540 0350
{ 66 }
The Press Room G/F, 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung
Wan, tel: +852 2525 3444
Tsui Wah G/F-2/F, 15-19 Wellington Street, Central,
tel: +852 2525 6338; G/F, 84-86 Des Voeux Road,
Central, tel: +852 2815 3000
Wing Shing Photo Supplies 57 Sai Yeung Choi
Street, Mong Kok, Kowloon, tel: +852 2396 6886
Mong Kok Computer Centre 8 Nelson Street,
Mong Kok, Kowloon
Classifi ed 1-9 Lin Fa Kung Street West, Tai Hang,
tel: +852 2857 3454
Man Shing G/F, 16 Wun Sha Street, Tai Hang,
tel: +852 2576 7272
Xiao Tian Gu G/F, 10-11B School Street, Tai Hang,
tel: +852 2882 6133

Vietnam
unexpected
Lester V Ledesma explores Ho Chi Minh City and
the Mekong, and finds the region teeming with
endless surprises. Photos by Lester V Ledesma
{ 68 }
THIS IS NOT the Vietnam I expected.
I am standing on a roadside in the
heart of downtown Ho Chi Minh City
(HCMC) — the city formerly known as
Saigon — marveling at this grand, gritty
backdrop of men and motorbikes. They
crowd the wide, tree-lined avenue and
the sidewalks that border it, a virtual
army on two wheels buzzing with color
and movement and petrol fumes.
The scene before me is, of course,
just an everyday sight in this country’s
sprawling center of commerce. Yet, to
this wide-eyed newcomer, it could very

well be an endless parade of scooters.
Before me pass motorbikes laden with
all kinds of cargo — boxes stacked as
high as the driver, an overwhelming
pile of incense sticks, an entire bicycle.
There’s one that’s lashed with bunches
of meters-long PVC pipes on either
side, and yet another with a massive
stepladder balanced on the passenger’s
shoulders.
A city of surprises
Amusing as this all is, it isn’t quite
the image of Indochina that I had in
V IETNAM GETAWAY
Clockwise from left: Ho Chi Minh City
has wide, tree-lined boulevards, French
colonial buildings – and lots of scooters; a
roadside vendor checks out her merchandise;
Vietnamese countryside scenes on a lacquer
plate; and tasty, peppery hu tieu noodles.
mind. Mention Vietnam and you’d
likely imagine vast rice paddies and
meandering waterways, and smiling
locals wearing conical hats. Ho Chi
Minh City may be exotic with its ancient
Buddhist temples and French colonial
buildings, but it constantly reminds you
that it is, after all, the big city. I came
over to spend the weekend exploring
Saigon and its environs. Fresh off my
two-and-a-half-hour fl ight from Manila,
I am already assaulted by the heady
sights, sounds and smells of Vietnam.
This is going to be an interesting trip.
{ 69 }

Ho Chi Minh City may be exotic with its
ancient Buddhist temples and French colonial
buildings, but it constantly reminds you that
it is, after all, the big city
{ 70 }
PHOTO PHOTOLIBRARY

First stop: Saigon
I’ve got three short days to spare, so
I waste no time getting acquainted
with HCMC. With excited feet I saunter
toward the city proper, home to the
landmarks of the once-proud capital of
the defunct Republic of South Vietnam.
There’s the former presidential palace,
the city hall and the old American
embassy, now adorned with bright red
banners bearing the image of Uncle Ho.
These buildings fi gured prominently
in the decades-long “American War”
that ravaged the country in the 1960s
until the 70s. However, looking at their
gleaming façades, with the long lines
of visitors snaking into the entrances, it
seems the years of confl ict have become
a top tourist draw.
Vietnam is offi cially a communist
country, but it sure doesn’t feel like it.
The communist-fl avored billboards
(“Continue the revolution! Onward to a
progressive Vietnam!”) notwithstanding,
it seems that good old capitalism
remains fi rmly entrenched. This I see
full-on when I check out the sprawling
Ben Thanh Market. Here, wholesale
goods from the country’s many factories
(next to China, Vietnam is one of
Asia’s biggest centers of production)
arrive fresh from the line. Think export
overruns of branded shoes and bags,
V IETNAM GETAWAY
fi ne handicrafts, clothes and even
designer watches.
Taking a break, I hunker down at a
roadside stall for a helping of Coke and
banh mi — a Vietnamese version of the
venerable French baguette sandwich.
As I chow down my snack, perched on
a plastic stool at the sidewalk’s edge,
I once again watch wave after wave
of two-wheeled traffi c. At one point, I
witness a head-on collision between
motorbikes that promptly results in a
scooter pile-up on both sides of the road.
Without a word, the dazed drivers —
about eight of them in total — straighten
their bikes and promptly get back on the
handlebars, displaying a resiliency that
made me understand how they are able
to survive and overcome confl ict.
{ 71 }
This page, clockwise
from top: A statue of
Ho Chi Minh in front
of the old city hall;
banh mi sandwiches
at a roadside stall;
Ben Thanh Market
is shopping central;
and communist
billboards adorn
the city streets.
Opposite page: A
pomelo vendor at
rush hour in HCMC.

Next stop, countryside
The next day I fi nd myself gazing at
traditional scenes of Vietnam — longhaired
women, their ao dai dresses
fl apping in the wind, walk past a
backdrop of valleys and streams — as
the bus I’m in with a number of other
tourists barrels down the national road,
past ricefi elds and rivers teeming with
farmers and fi shermen.
In the town of My Tho, we watch
monks in prayer in a centuries-old
temple surrounded by huge Buddha
statues. Later on, a family in neighboring
Ben Tre serves us coconut candies.
These we wash down with a local
concoction of rice wine and honey tea
before setting off on a scenic boat ride
down the nearby mangrove forests. An
impromptu concert by a dan nguyet (a
two-stringed lute, similar to a guitar)
musician tops the afternoon off. It’s
all touristy stuff, mind you, but still
a fascinating glimpse into traditional
Vietnamese life.
By nightfall we are at our fi nal
destination: the city of Can Tho, right
by the Mekong River, where I part ways
with the group. From here onwards, this
adventure will be my own.
Into the Mekong
It is half-past four in the morning
and I am already wide awake. Under
moonlight, Vietnam’s most signifi cant
body of water glistens with a silvery
sheen. I am at the Can Tho dock,
preparing to board a boat that I’ve
rented the night before. My boat driver, a
smiling lady named Thuy, barely speaks
English. She doesn’t need to to be told
where to take me, however, because all
roads (so to speak) at this hour lead to
only one place: the fl oating market at
Cai Rang.
We set off in the pre-dawn darkness,
our wooden crate joining a loose
procession of other boats heading
the same way. As the sky gradually
lightens, I look around a river that is just
waking up. Bleary-eyed kids peek out
V IETNAM GETAWAY
{ 73 }
Clockwise from
top: A dan nguyet
musician serenades
visitors to the
town of Ben Tre;
a lacquerware
workshop produces
fi ne artworks in My
Tho; and smiles
aplenty at the local
store and on the
ricefi elds.

from the doorways of stilted homes,
while their mothers prepare breakfast on
outdoor kitchens. Fishermen cast nets
from tiny canoes. No doubt these scenes
are repeated throughout the Mekong’s
5,000km length. From the mountains
of Yunnan, these waters fl ow south
through Laos, Myanmar, Thailand and
Cambodia, before reaching Vietnam and
separating into the numerous waterways
of the Mekong Delta. Can Tho sits right
on the southernmost branch, a virtual
highway for commerce leading all the
way to the sea.
We reach the Cai Rang market just as
I am pondering these thoughts. It feels
just like Saigon, except that everything
— the hawking, the buying, the sense
of organized chaos — happens afl oat.
From one side of the river to the other
(a distance of about fi ve city blocks) are
nothing but boats. I see barges loaded
with charcoal, coconuts or fruits, and
just about any kind of produce. I see
smaller, roofed boats stuffed with more
provisions than a 7-11. There are also
canoes carrying dry goods, and canoes
that serve as food stalls — and canoes
bearing buyers and tourists like me.
I call for the noodle boat and order
a breakfast of steaming hu tieu — a
soup of noodles, pork, beansprouts, and
sweet pork broth. Afterwards, Thuy turns
the boat around for a leisurely cruise
down the surrounding canals.
V IETNAM GETAWAY
Here is where I fi nd the classic
Vietnam, the one I’d seen countless
times in postcards. From my bobbing
platform, I see all the chaos melt away,
replaced by a soulful panorama of water
and sky. By this time the sun is up,
bathing the entire countryside in golden
light. Thuy turns off the engine and we
fl oat silently along with the current.
We pass the occasional thatch-roofed
hut and bamboo footbridge. A pair of
women paddle by on a rowboat, their
{ 74 }
Above: A boat
noodle vendor
feeds sellers at the
Cai Rang fl oating
market. Left:
Breakfast arrives
on a boat in the
Mekong Delta.
It feels just like Saigon, except that
everything — the hawking, the
buying, the sense of organized
chaos — happens afloat
peasant garb and conical hats forming
the timeless scene that I have longed
to witness. This is as beautiful as this
countryside will ever get. I savor the
view for as long as it lasts, knowing full
well that in the afternoon it will be time
to go back. I came to Vietnam with an
image in my mind’s eye. This, too, is the
image that I will bring home.
Cebu Pacifi c fl ies to Ho Chi Minh City from
Manila. www.cebupacifi cair.com

trip journal
trip journal
Your guide to enjoying every city on our network
Be a Smile Where local to correspondent! find everything Email you us wanna at cebu.ed@ink-global.com
read - enjoy!
{ 77 }
It’s high time to
experience some
serious fun in
Taiwan!
Want to visit
Taipei? Turn to
page 83 for
useful advice
from a local!

JAPAN
OSAKA
COUNTRY CODE +81 (6)
CURRENCY JPY100 = PHP55.42/US$1.30
TOUCHDOWN Take the Nankai Express Rapi:t
from Kansai International Airport to Osaka (38
minutes to Namba station) and the JR Haruka
limited express (33 minutes to Tenno-ji, 51 minutes
to Shin-Osaka). www.kansai-airport.or.jp/en/access
BY DAY Visit the Osaka Castle, stroll the funky
America-mura area for great shopping, and
drop by Shinsekai for a real downtown Osaka
atmosphere. See Shittenoji, the city’s fi rst
Buddhist temple.
BY NIGHT Head to Shinsaibashi, Doutonbori
with its garish neon lights, great cheap eateries,
and the serene Hozenji Yokocho — traditional
atmosphere and lantern-lit streets lined with small
bars for a folksy evening out.
SLEEP Not recommended for the whole trip, but try
a capsule hotel for a futuristic Jetsons experience,
and the Asahi Plaza Shisaibashi is strategically
located in the middle of the hip America-mura area.
Manami
Okazaki
journalist/curator/
media producer
LOCAL SPEAK ”Beppin”
means “a foxy lady” and “honma?”
(“are you for real?”).
BEST BUYS Nerd out at Den Den
town for all your techno geek goods.
Do try to haggle!
BEST SOUVENIRS Evisu is
Japan’s premier denim company and
comes from Osaka. Get great quality
denim jeans here.
DID D YOU
KKNOW?
trip journal
VIETNAM
HO CHI MINH CITY
COUNTRY CODE +84
CURRENCY VND10,000 = PHP20.49/US$0.48
TOUCHDOWN Tan Son Nhat International
Airport is a 30-minute drive away from District 1.
A taxi ride costs about VND80,000 (PHP163.93).
You can also hire a motorbike and driver for
VND20,000 (PHP41).
BY DAY Check out Ben Thanh Market for
handicrafts, textiles and souvenirs, and local
cuisine. Or visit the Nha Rong Museum that was
built to pay homage to revolutionary leader Ho
Chi Minh, the city’s namesake.
BY NIGHT Dine like the locals at a Bia Hoi on
any corner and try Saigon beer with peanuts. For a
fancier dinner, try Caravelle Hotel. District 1 is where
all the buzz is for nightlife. Enjoy cocktails at Vasco’s,
74 Hai Ba Trung St, D1.
SLEEP Duxton Hotel has a great location — it’s
walking distance to the Opera House, Notre Dame
Cathedral and Ben Thann Market. 63 Nguyen Hue
Boulevard, D1, Dong Khoi/ Nguyen Hue
BEST BREAKFAST Start your
day at Elbow Room, 52 Pasteur Street,
Ben Nghe Ward, D1.
BEST DINNER Enjoy your meal
in a charming café with a park view at
Au Parc, 23 Han Thuyen, D1.
INSIDER TIP Explore the city
center on a cyclo, the Vietnamese
trishaw. The driver can suggest a city
day tour for you.
Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Street in
Osaka is 2.6km long.
{ 79 }
Rico
Gonzales
photographer

trip journal
CHINA
HONG KONG
COUNTRY CODE +852
CURRENCY HK$1 = PHP5.45/US$0.13
TOUCHDOWN The Airport Express takes 24
minutes to Central and costs HK$100 (PHP546).
If you take a taxi cab from the airport, it will cost
you upwards of HK$300 (PHP1,637), depending
on where you alight. www.hongkongairport.com
BY DAY Take a tram to The Peak for breathtaking
views of the Hong Kong skyline. Plan a trip to Hong
Kong Disneyland (either on the fi rst or last day
of your itinerary) to watch the unique shows and
attractions, including the nightly fi reworks display.
BY NIGHT Hong Kong’s skyline by night, coupled
with the light show in Kowloon and Central, is a
mermerizing sight. Order martinis or a light-bodied
glass of red at The Ritz Carlton (ICC Tower), Hong
Kong’s tallest building, or Aqua Bar (1 Peking Rd).
SLEEP Check out the new Mira Hotel (Nathan Rd)
and Cosmo Hotel (Causeway Bay). For families, the
Victorian-themed Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel has
a meet-and-greet with Disney friends over breakfast.
{ 80 }
Cinty
Yniguez
Curran
sales manager
BEST SOUVENIRS Fashion
fi nds in the ”lanes” (Li Yuen St East
and West) in Central.
BEST BUYS Slightly used
designer bags at Milan/Paris stations,
a trend that’s taken HK by storm.
LOCAL SPEAK “Jouh sahn“,
(“Good morning”), “mhm goi sai“,
(“thank you”) and “peng di la”
(“cheaper”).
DID D YOU
KKNOW?
CHINA
MACAU
COUNTRY CODE +853
CURRENCY MOP1 = PHP5.74/US$0.13
TOUCHDOWN Upon arrival in Macau, just board
the Bus AP1 from the airport to the Barrier Gate
(China border). A taxi ride into the city only takes
15 minutes and will cost you around MOP40–50
(PHP218-265).
BY DAY Start the day with theme park activities
and shopping at the Fisherman’s Wharf or enjoy
unobstructed views of the city from the 233m-tall
Macau Tower where you can experience the
world’s highest bungee jump.
BY NIGHT Welcome to Asia’s Las Vegas!
Sophisticated lasers beams light up the city’s night
sky with over 30 casinos operating ‘round the
clock. Each of them is an attraction in itself. The
largest would be The Venetian Macao.
SLEEP The Venetian is where you can enjoy
elegant rooms, gaming, spas and dining under one
roof! For the guests’ convenience, the hotel runs free
shuttles to other spots. www.venetianmacao.com
Kennis
Yuen
production
manager
BEST BREAKFAST The Pork
Chop Burger at Cafe Tai Lei Loi Kei.
Praca de Artur Tamagnini 18, Barbosa
BEST DINNER Locals love
A Lorcha (289 Rua do Almirante
Sergio). Try the seafood and estufada!
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
Bite into Macau’s legendary
Portugese egg tart. 1 Rua da Tassara,
Coloane Town Square
Hole-in-the-wall cafés like Tsim Chai
Kee in Hong Kong offer yummy eats!

trip journal
CHINA
BEIJING
COUNTRY CODE +86
CURRENCY RMB1 = PHP 6.65/US$ 0.16
TOUCHDOWN Arrive at the Beijing Capital
International Airport (BCIA). After clearing customs
and claiming baggage, catch the downtown
airport shuttles or taxis from outside the arrival
lobby. en.bcia.com.cn
BY DAY Visit the Great Wall, the Forbidden City,
and the Summer Palace — three of the city’s
most famous historic attractions. Wander around
some of Beijing’s old hutong (alleys) such as
Nanluoguxiang.
BY NIGHT Sanlitun in the Chaoyang District
is where you’ll fi nd many bars and lots of
international shops. Indulge in night shopping at
Yaxiu Market, which is open till 8pm. Check out the
small bars and pubs with character in HouHai.
SLEEP The 466-room Landmark Hotel, very
close to Sanlitun, is perfect for tourists. Enjoy
free Wi-Fi in the hotel lobby, lobby bar and café.
www.beijinglandmark.com/en/index.html
Vivian Tan
sales executive
BEST BREAKFAST Start
your day with breakfast at Gulou or
Landmark hotel.
BEST DINNER Order the Beijing
Duck at Da Dong Roast Duck or
Quanjude Duck restaurant.
INSIDER TIP Don’t settle for the
quoted price when shopping in the
local markets. Learn to bargain, and
get the best value.
{ 82 }
CHINA
GUANGZHOU
COUNTRY CODE +86
CURRENCY RMB1 = PHP6.65/US$ 0.16
TOUCHDOWN Board the Airport Express bus
from the airport, about RMB10–30 (PHP66-
200). Taxis from the airport cost about RMB120
(PHP798) for the 28km-long ride to Haizhu
Square in the city.
BY DAY Visit White Cloud Mountain and see airy
clouds rim the peak in late spring. Admire the entire
city and its beautiful Pearl River, then spend an
afternoon at the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall and
learn about his contribution to modern-day China.
BY NIGHT Enjoy the breeze at Pearl River,
China’s third longest river. You will also fi nd
gleaming bridges, the “Scenery Corridor” and
Guangzhou’s new developments leaning in upon
both banks of the river.
SLEEP Sleep at Westin Hotel with its spacious
rooms and ample amenities. There is also a Latin
American restaurant and a chi-chi rooftop Italian
restaurant. 6 Lin He Zhong Road, Tian He District
Fiona Aw
entrepreneur
BEST DINNER Liuhua Congee
House for congee. Renmin Bei Lu
No 903, +86 (20) 8668 0108
INSIDER TIP Canton Trade Fairs
take place on the third and fourth
weeks of April and October.
MUST-DO EXPERIENCE
A Pearl River dinner cruise is a great
way to experience Guangzhou’s
bright city lights.

CHINA
SHANGHAI
COUNTRY CODE +86
CURRENCY RMB1 = PHP6.65/US$0.16
TOUCHDOWN If you’re taking a cab from the
airport (or anywhere in Shanghai), do ask for
the fapiao (receipt). This way, in case you forget
something, you have a way of tracking it down.
www.shanghaiairport.com
BY DAY Stroll along Wulumuqi Lu in the morning
and try every street-food stand along the way.
Wander around the French Concession district
without a map, then try riding a bike-taxi, which
can prove more thrilling than bungee jumping.
BY NIGHT Bar Rouge on the Bund offers the
most exhilarating views and champagne. Visit
Constellation II for the best cocktails in town, and
Taicang Lu for a host of funky jazz clubs and
wine bars.
SLEEP The Langham in Xintiandi is smack in the
heart of Shanghai’s entertainment hub. Rest your
head on hand-made pillow cases in elegant rooms
with modern touches. xintiandi.langhamhotels.com
Jakub
Lewandowski
marketing/events
manager
BEST BREAKFAST The buffet
breakfast at Hyatt on the Bund is
unbeatable.
BEST BUYS Custom-made
shoes on Taojiang Lu for less than
RMB1,000 (PHP6,653).
BEST FESTIVALS In February,
come for Chinese New Year. In
October, there’s all-you-can-eat cakes
during the Moon Festival.
trip journal
TAIWAN
TAIPEI
COUNTRY CODE +886
CURRENCY TW$1 = PHP1.47/US$0.034
TOUCHDOWN Taxis to the city will cost you
TW$1,100 (PHP1,614), but private bus companies
run trips from both terminals, and will cost you a
more manageable TW$110–140 (PHP161-205). To
get around, take the MRT.
BY DAY Head to the top of Taipei 101 for an aerial
view of the city. Admire the grounds of CKS
Memorial Hall or NTU Campus. Outdoorsy types
can check out waterfalls near Wulai or soak in hot
springs after hiking Yangmingshan National Park.
BY NIGHT Night markets are plentiful; check out
Shilin, Raohe, Shida, or Tonghua. Stop for food
and drinks at the Taiwan Beer Bar. The teahouses
in mountainous Muzha offer spectacular views of
Taipei via the Maokong Gondola.
SLEEP Treat yourself to a night or two at Taipei’s
Grand Hotel. The classical Chinese architecture
and the grounds that surround the hotel are
spectacular. www.grand-hotel.org
BEST BREAKFAST Dàn bing,
tasty egg cakes, offered in many fl avors,
can be found everywhere. Try them all!
INSIDER TIP “Ni hao!” (“hello”),
“hao chi” (“delicious”), and “xiè xiè”
(“thank you”).
BEST DINNER An assortment
of steamed dumplings and mouthwatering
beef noodle soup — this is
Taiwan at its best.
{ 83 }
Jennifer
Turek
blogger
groovegrrrrrl.
blogspot.com

trip journal
THAILAND
BANGKOK
COUNTRY CODE +66 (2)
CURRENCY THB1 = PHP1.42/US$0.03
TOUCHDOWN There is a free airport shuttle to
the Public Transportation Center in town. A taxi
costs THB200 (PHP284). In the city, use the
BTS Skytrains and avoid the jams. Tuk-tuks are
available but only for short distances.
BY DAY Platinum Fashion Mall (Petchburi Road)
has fi ve air-conditioned stories of wholesalers
and alleys of fab fi nds, from cheap swimwear to
designer togs, at clearance prices. Shop for winter
gear, kiddies’ frocks, bags and costume jewelry.
BY NIGHT Bed Supperclub is a cool spaceshipshaped
club, with all-white interiors and a sit
down set-dinner at 9pm on one side, and a club
open till wee hours in the other half. Oh-so-trendy
and great for people watching. Soi 11, Sukhumvit
SLEEP The Siam, in the heart of Bangkok beside
the Phaya Thai Skytrain Station (BTS) is two stops
from Siam Square, Central World and MBK.
www.thesiamhotel.com
BEST BUYS Head to Chatuchak
(or Jatujak) for everything from clothes
to antiques, noodles to poodles!
MUST TRY EXPERIENCE
The tuk-tuk, a bike-turned-threewheel
taxi. Bargain before you board!
BEST DINNER Tired of Thai?
Best dim sum and Peking duck
at Lin Fa in Siam City Hotel.
www.siamhotels.com/siamcity
{ 84 }
Melanie
Giles-Clapp
hotel PR director,
The Siam
DID D YOU
KKNOW?
SINGAPORE
SINGAPORE
COUNTRY CODE +65
CURRENCY S$1 = PHP35.04/US$0.82
TOUCHDOWN From the airport, take a taxi
downtown for about S$15 (PHP525), depending on
the time of day. Peak hours carry a S$3 (PHP105)
surcharge. Or take the MRT and you’ll be there in
about 25 minutes for about S$2 (PHP70).
BY DAY Check out the unexpected pockets of
nature amidst the concrete jungle – Botanic
Gardens, Hort Park, Dhoby Ghaut Green, Fort
Canning Park and the Esplanade Park – all in
close proximity to the Orchard Road shopping belt.
BY NIGHT Marina Barrage gives you the best
views of the Singapore cityscape by night. Plus,
as sundown hits, beautiful kites with colorful
blinking lights take fl ight from the roof park. Head
to Robertson Quay for cool alfresco drinks.
SLEEP Feel like splurging? Do so at the Ritz-
Carlton Millenia Singapore for awesome views
and beds that make sleeping in irresistible. www.
ritzcarlton.com/Singapore
Azreen
Noor
corporate
communications
BEST BUYS A traditional dress
of an ethnic group — a cheongsam,
peranakan kebaya, baju kurung or sari.
BEST SOUVENIRS Ready-tocook
“kits” for laksa or chicken rice
at any supermarket.
BEST BREAKFAST Thosai
(Indian vegetarian savory pancake) at
Madras New Woodlands with Masala
tea. 14 Upper Dickson Road
In Singapore, boutique hotels (like the
retro Hotel Re) offer great value.

MALAYSIA
KUALA LUMPUR
COUNTRY CODE +60 (3)
CURRENCY RM1 = PHP14.17/US$0.33
TOUCHDOWN A bus will take you to downtown
Kuala Lumpur from the airport for about RM10
(PHP141). On the other hand, the train will get you
there in half the time. Metered taxis are fast and
affordable.
BY DAY Visit the vintage fl ea market in Amcorp
mall in Petaling Jaya, every Sunday, that sells
everything from antique furniture, old records to
Malaya memorabilia. It’s the only authentic fl ea
market in KL.
BY NIGHT Changkat Bukit Bintang for a variety of
international dining set in small stylish cafés. Good
for people-watching, beer-drinking and indie DJ
spinning. Then head over to the street behind (Jalan
Alor) for late supper.
SLEEP Sekeping Tenggiri, affordable and
stylish homes for guests who want a homely
feel in the center of the most popular residential
neighborhood, Bangsar. www.tenggiri.com
Adeline
Chong
owner of online
vintage collectible
shop
BEST DINNER Fat Spoon
Restaurant in Damansara Utama
(suburb in Petaling Jaya). Serve
home-made Malaysian cuisine.
BEST BUYS Old records from
Amcorp mall (starts from US$3.00).
BEST SOUVENIR Durian
pancakes (or the real one if you
manage to smuggle into the
airplane).
trip journal
MALAYSIA
KOTA KINABALU
COUNTRY CODE +60 (88)
CURRENCY RM1 = PHP14.17/US$0.33
TOUCHDOWN The Kota Kinabalu International
Airport is only 10 minutes away by taxi, which
usually costs about RM20 (PHP282). Be sure to
negotiate and agree on the fare before you step
into the cab.
BY DAY The city is known for its tallest mountain
which draws climbers from the region. The Lok
Kawi Wildlife Park showcases exotic animals like
orangutans and the Sumatran rhinoceros. Or shop
at the Gaya Street Tamu’s Sunday Market.
BY NIGHT Scuba dive at night. Explore
underwater wonders (such as WWII wrecks) in
the dark at over 20 diving sites. Or you can chill
at the Waterfront. Pirates Bar prepares delicious
barbecue dishes.
SLEEP Hyatt Regency Kinabalu, in the heart of
Kota Kinabalu city, faces the South China Sea.
Dip in the outdoor pool or stay fi t in Club Olympus
health club. Kinabalu.regency@hyatt.com
Jeremiah
Thien
communications
assistant
BEST BREAKFAST Great Fish
Noodle Soup and Tom Yam at Wan
Wan Restaurant.
BEST NIGHT OUT Head out
the Waterfront in Kota Kinabalu for
drinks and chilling out with friends.
BEST DINNER Nelayan
Seafood Restaurant gives you the
opportunity to watch cultural dances
while having your meal.
{ 86 }
BRUNEI DARUSSALAM
BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN
COUNTRY CODE +673
CURRENCY BND1 = PHP35.04/US$0.82
TOUCHDOWN The international airport is
approximately 10 minutes (about 10km) from the
center of Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB). There are
taxis, car rentals and regular public bus services
that can take you to and from the airport.
BY DAY Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, one
of South-East Asia’s most impressive mosques, is
named after Brunei’s 28th sultan. It boasts granite
from Shanghai, chandeliers and stained glass from
England and Italian marble, to name a few.
BY NIGHT Head over to Gadong Pasar Alam
(night market). You’ll fi nd fresh vegetables and
cooked food at countless stalls: nasi katok (fried
chicken), nasi lemak (chicken with coconutfl
avored rice) and, if you dare, chicken butt.
SLEEP For budget travelers, Grand City Hotel
provides good value and decent lodgings. About
fi ve to 10 minutes from the airport, it’s also close
to small shops, restaurants and streetside cafés.
Ben Lo
inbound tour
coordinator
BEST BREAKFAST The Empire
Hotel buffet or nasi katok at a local
cafeteria.
BEST DINNER Bob Ume
Restaurant in Tamu Selera serves
great seafood at affordable prices.
BEST SOUVENIRS Nothing is
better than your own photographs
and your experience in Brunei —
these are priceless.

SOUTH KOREA
INCHEON (SEOUL)
COUNTRY CODE +82
CURRENCY KRW100 = PHP3.94/US$0.092
TOUCHDOWN Look for taxis with stickers that
say “Foreign Language Service.” Cabs can be
shared except for those with black and yellow
tops. Thanks to a new bridge, the trip takes 15
minutes. Eight subway lines serve the main areas.
BY DAY The beautiful Gyeongbokgung palace is
a must-see. Immerse yourself in the culture and
do as the locals do — take a leisurely walk along
the Cheonggyecheon stream and traditional tea
in Insadong.
BY NIGHT Go to Namsan Tower for the
breathtaking view of the city. Then head to
Hongdae where the young and trendy spend
their nights in the multitude of cool bars and
restaurants.
SLEEP For backpackers and families on a budget,
go to Kimchi Seoul Guesthouse. The best address
to make new friends and visit Seoul from a central
location. www.hostelseoulkorea.com
Manouchka
Elefant
blogger
CaviarCreme.com
BEST DINNER Street food is
delicious, cheap and a great way to
experience Korean cuisine.
BEST BUYS Korean fashion and
cosmetics. Head to Dongdaemun or
Myeongdong for incredible shopping.
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
You will never forget eating live
octopus at the Noryangjin fi sh
market.
trip journal
SOUTH KOREA
BUSAN
COUNTRY CODE +82
CURRENCY KRW1 = PHP3.94/US$0.092
TOUCHDOWN From the Busan Gimhae
International Airport, take the bus, the Busan
Subway Line or railroad line. Make sure to plan
your transfers carefully, so you don’t miss your
fl ights. gimhae.airport.co.kr/eng
BY DAY Visit the HaeDong YongGungSa (The Water
Temple), located just past Seong Jeong Beach. Ride
the gondola from Oncheongjang to the top of the
Busan’s outer mountain range, where you can take
in a panoramic view of the city.
BY NIGHT Stroll along the neon-lit boardwalk
of Gwangali Beach. The Diamond Bridge is lit up
beautifully, and the cafés and restaurants along the
beach provide great views of the water. Seomyeon
is another fun area full of bars and restaurants.
SLEEP The Westin Chosun Hotel is a fabulous
hotel with a great location on Haeundae beach.
The rooms are beautiful and the staff incredibly
helpful. busan@chosunhotel.co.kr
Amy
Zimmerman
English teacher
BEST BREAKFAST Bucella’s,
on Haeundae Beach, offers a
wonderful brunch!
BEST FESTIVAL The Fireworks
Festival on Gwangali Beach in
October is unbelievable.
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
Take a kimchi-making class —
the process and the history are
fascinating!
{ 89 }
INDONESIA
JAKARTA
COUNTRY CODE +62
CURRENCY IDR100,000 = PHP498/US$11.72
TOUCHDOWN Hire a Bluebird or Silverbird
taxi from the airport to the city, which costs
IDR180,000 (PHP875), plus toll. Alternatively,
the DAMRI bus goes to any city bus station for a
very manageable IDR15,000 (PHP74).
BY DAY If you like shopping or sitting down at a
nice and cozy café, you can go Plaza Senayan
and Plaza Indonesia as they have so many stores
and interesting cafes. There is also Museum
Fatahillah at Kota Tua that you can explore.
BY NIGHT Go to Bumbu Desa for dinner if you
like Indonesian cuisine with Sundanese taste and
give yourself a chance to enjoy a delicious and
fresh seafood dinner at Saung Greenville. Tel: +62
(21) 727 8807.
SLEEP Hotel Mulia Senayan provides excellent
service and many different types of rooms;
it’s pretty well-known for its good customer
satisfaction record. www.hotelmulia.com
Viny
Halim
student
BEST SOUVENIRS Batik. Get
the most affordable ones at Mangga
Dua or Tanah Abang.
BEST BUYS Clothes and dresses
by local designers at Level One,
Grand Indonesia mall.
BEST BREAKFAST Nasi uduk
(coconut rice) with lontong sayur
(rice cakes, egg, tofu and vegetables
drowned in coconut milk).

PHILIPPINES
LAOAG
AREA CODE (77)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN You can hire a van, a jeepney
or a tricycle from the Laoag airport to get to your
destination in town. However, an eco-friendly
means of getting around the city is the kalesa or
horse-drawn carriage.
BY DAY Experience sandboarding or riding a 4x4
jeep on the sand dunes of Ilocos Norte. These
activities are ideal when done while the sun is
out so you get to admire the beauty of the
glistening sand.
BY NIGHT Check out the live music and local
delicacies at the Dap-ayan in Laoag City. Whether
for a snack or dinner, you can’t say you’ve been
to Ilocos if you haven’t tried the region’s famous
empanada (stuffed pastry).
SLEEP Staying at the Playa Tropical is a
wonderful vacation in itself, with luxurious Baliinspired
villas and a pool with a great view of the
sunset. www.playatropical.com.ph
Glenn
Tumaneng
fashion/wedding
photographer
BEST BUYS Bring home packs
of bagnet (air-dried pork) and
longganisa (local sausage).
BEST DINNER Enjoy the
pinakbet pizza at Café Herencia with
a view of Paoay Church.
BEST EATS When in Laoag,
everyone should go to Dawangs.
The crispy dinuguan and paksiw are
a must-try!
DID D YOU
KKNOW?
RAP RIOS
trip journal
PHILIPPINES
TUGUEGARAO
AREA CODE (78)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN To get to town, you take two
tricycles: one from the airport to the main road,
and then another to the town proper. It should cost
you no more than just PHP10 per ride. And the
rides are fairly short ones.
BY DAY Visit St Peter and Paul Cathedral and the
San Jacinto Ermita Church, once a shelter for the
American troops during the Filipino-American War
in 1899. Enter Callao Caves by climbing 187 steps;
the natural chapel makes it worthwhile.
BY NIGHT Your best bet would be a relaxed
night out. Listen to good music while enjoying a
drink or two at these popular watering holes in
Tuguegarao: the Port, Dingkoy’s or Las Palmas
de San Jose.
SLEEP Hotel Lorita offers budget rooms, family
rooms and suites. Free Wi-Fi is a plus. Standard
double room rate is from PHP700++ a night.
www.ivoryhotelandsuites.com/lorita.html
BEST BUYS Longganisa and
Lallo or Alcala Milk Candy and
salinas (smoked fi sh).
INSIDER TIP Tricycle fare from
airport to town should be no more
than PHP20.
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
Kayaking in the Pinakanauan River,
rafting in the Chico River, and big
game fi shing.
{ 91 }
Antonio
Carag Jr
businessman/
river guide
Greet locals in Laoag by saying
“Naimbag a bigat” (“Good morning”).

PHILIPPINES
CAUAYAN
AREA CODE (78)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$.02)
TOUCHDOWN The airport in Cauayan opened
in 2008. Upon landing, ask the Cebu Pacifi c
staff for advice regarding transport to get to your
lodgings. Buses and jeepneys travel from the
airport to town.
EDGAR ALAN ZETA YAP
BY DAY Cauayan is right in the center of Isabela.
The city is a great jump-off point for people who
are traveling up north. Hire a car, and then drive to
the coastal towns and discover Cauayan’s hidden
beaches.
BY NIGHT Dine at the local restaurants to
savor satisfying Filipino comfort food. Head to
Kabayan’s Grill for their delectable sisig. Once
you’ve had your fi ll, go to Centrale Bar and Café
for an ice cold beer or two.
SLEEP Queen Jennifer Hotel and Restaurant is a
tourist inn that has a restaurant, disco and videoke
bar to keep guests entertained. Tel: +63 (78) 652
0066/0077.
Arvin Alivia
station manager
BEST BUYS You can get
Isabela’s world-class whole grain
rice here in Cauayan.
BEST BREAKFAST Café
Isabela has the best food and
ambience to start your day with.
BEST SOUVENIRS Bring
home some moriecos, delicious
stuffed kakanin (assorted rice cakes)
from the nearby town Cabatuan.
trip journal
PHILIPPINES
CLARK
AREA CODE (45)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN From Diosdado Macapagal
International Airport (DMIA), you can take a taxi, a
bus or a jeep to the city. Any of these will take you
to the terminal or SM Clark. Within town, there are
cabs and jeeps. You can also hire a car or van.
BY DAY See Mt Pinatubo by plane with Omni
Aviation (their hangar is right beside the highway),
or go on the Santa Juliana Pinatubo Trek. For a
relaxing outdoor experience, try the Hot Springs at
Sapang Bato in Angeles City, near Clark.
BY NIGHT Island Grill is the newest bar/
restaurant in Clark right next to the golf course,
where patrons can enjoy a view of the 16th hole
of the Mountain View course of Mimosa. Unwind
with drinks at V8 bar next to the highway.
SLEEP Vida Hotel is right beside the highway
near the Duty Free shops, Mimosa Golf and
Country Club, and Fontana theme park.
Tel: +63 (45) 499 1000.
{ 93 }
Don Tayag
restaurant
manager
INSIDER TIP Visit the Candaba
Market every Friday morning (near
the old DFA).
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
Ultra Light Flights around Metro
Clark area and Pinatubo area.
LOCAL SPEAK “Dakal a
salamat” means “Thank you very
much” and “Mayap a bengi” means
“Good evening”.
LESTER LEDESMA
PHILIPPINES
MANILA
AREA CODE (02)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN From the airport, the ride to
commercial centers takes 30 minutes to an hour,
depending on traffi c and where you’re headed.
Pay around PHP450 to hire registered airport
taxis, but metered cabs are also available.
BY DAY Shop at the specialized organic markets
during weekends at Salcedo Weekend Market and
Sidcor Quezon City Weekend Market. Have lunch at
any of Greenbelt 5 restaurants like Chateau 1771 or
Myron’s which serves excellent pudding.
BY NIGHT Have a drink at Union Jack Tavern in
Festival Supermall for an authentic English pub
experience. Enjoy dinner in Balducci or Hossein’s at
Serendra, Fort Bonifacio. Try your luck at the casino
in Resorts World.
SLEEP Sofi tel has luxurious rooms and a great
pool with the best view of the Manila Bay sunset.
Their spa, LeSpa@Sofi tel, has signature treatments
and the softest, fl uffi est bathrobes. www.sofi tel.com
Sheryl Ann
Flores
advertising
executive
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
The nightlife and casino in Resorts
World Manila, www.rwmanila.com
INSIDER TIP Explore another
side of Manila on the Binondo Food
Tour with Ivan Man Dy.
BEST SOUVENIRS Go bargain
shopping in Divisoria! Just brace
yourself for the hot and crowded
environment.

PHILIPPINES
NAGA
AREA CODE (54)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Naga City Airport is about 12km
from the city center, accessible by many forms of
transportation, including bus, van, jeepney and
tricycle. You may also hire an eight-seat kalesa to
tour the city.
BY DAY Visit the Stonehouse Rainforest/Garden
Resort and take a guided tour of the grounds.
Explore their fl ower and butterfl y gardens. Try their
“passionate drink” made of passionfruit from their
gardens. www.stonehousegardensresort.com
BY NIGHT Go to Magsaysay Avenue and try the
local coffee shop called Bean Bag Coffee. Have
dinner at Bigg’s, a popular local food chain, and
for a sweet fi nish, go for dessert of ice cream at
Cold Shack.
SLEEP Stay at Villa Caceres Hotel. Their in-house
spa called Evolution Salon and Day Spa offers the
best massage in Naga. Standard rooms start at
PHP2,500. www.villacacereshotel.com
Leah Andrea
Soriano-
Alingog
businesswoman
BEST BREAKFAST Lovely’s
for crispy hito (catfi sh) and paksiw
na pata (pork in sour stew).
BEST BUYS Natong (taro leaves
in coconut milk), Bicol express and
pili nuts from RPM at SM-Naga.
INSIDER TIP Go healthy and
try the tofu burger at Green Earth
Café, the only organic restaurant in
Naga City.
ERICK LIRIOS
trip journal
PHILIPPINES
VIRAC
AREA CODE (86)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Jeepneys and buses ply the
main thoroughfares of Catanduanes. Tricycles are
also a popular means of transport. On the other
hand, most hotels in the area can arrange for your
pick-up from the airport.
BY DAY Try kayaking and zip-lining at Twin Rock
Beach or surfi ng at Puraran Beach. Visiting old
churches in neighboring towns of Bato and San
Andres can also be fun for those who like a little
bit of history. www.twinrock.com.ph
BY NIGHT Restaurants and karaoke bars abound
on the boulevard in Barangays Rawis, Sta Cruz
and Salvacion. The Sea Breeze restaurant, beside
the port, serves delicious seafood. Then stroll
along the boulevard and enjoy the fresh air.
SLEEP The Catanduanes Midtown Inn is a few
meters away from Virac Port and a short tricycle ride
from the airport. Learn how to dive from the inn’s
licensed scuba divers. www.catmidinn.tripod.com
{ 94 }
Indira
Tabo
university
instructor/
trainer
LOCAL SPEAK “Hallayo”
which means “far”and “Kamahallan
man!” means “That’s expensive!”
BEST SOUVENIRS Tabrillas
or cacao chocolates (PHP50–60
per bar) are the best!
BEST EATS Sinallpungan, a
local delicacy — boiled then fried
carabao hide dipped in soy sauce,
onions, garlic, and chili.
LESTER LEDESMA
PHILIPPINES
LEGAZPI
AREA CODE (52)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Tricycles and vans are available
to take you in and around Legazpi. From the
airport, you can also easily hire a taxi to take you
and your luggage into the city proper or directly to
your hotel or inn.
BY DAY Start with a visit to Albay Park and
Wildlife, Legazpi City’s only zoo, en route to
the Lignon Hill Nature Park to view the Mayon
Volcano. Try the “kapit tuko” trail, zipline, or allterrain
vehicle (ATV) ride to the foot of the volcano.
BY NIGHT Catch live bands at Chick ‘N bar beside
Albay Capitol. Grab a beer at one of the stalls at
Embarcadero on Legazpi Boulevard. A bar called
7 Degrees on the slope of Daraga Church provides a
good night view of Mayon Volcano.
SLEEP Sampaguita Tourist Inn is probably the
lowest-priced hotel in Legazpi. It’s located right
in the heart of the city, and is only a fi ve-minute
walk to LCC Mall. Tel: +63 (52) 480 6003.
Precy
Buitre
web writer
BEST BREAKFAST
Palamigan Bayan’s pancit canton
or Boklan’s bihon guisado.
BEST DESSERT Forget your
diet with Balay Cenauna’s crème
brulée.
BEST DINNER Enjoy paella
valenciana at Colonial Grill and
lechon kawali (pan-roasted pork)
with Bicol express at Graceland.

NELSON PETILLA
PHILIPPINES
CATARMAN
AREA CODE (55)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Tricycles are just a few steps
away from the arrival hall of the airport. A
15-minute ride takes you to Catarman proper for
PHP10 per passenger. To rent a private tricycle, all
you need to pay is PHP60.
BY DAY Visit the beach. The UEP white beach is
a must-see. It has nice scenery and according to
the people here it’s the local version of Boracay. It
has cottages that you can rent for PHP200, and an
entrance fee of PHP10 per person.
BY NIGHT Spend the evening bar-hopping.
Kick things off with a visit to TSIBAN for affordable
drinks and entertaining live music. Still game for
more evening fun? Head over to Chino’s bar and
Chikko’s Grill.
SLEEP Check into Bahay Pinoy (Brgy Dalakit,
Catarman) and Pink City (Catarman) for clean
and comfortable accommodations that put you in
close proximity to everything else.
Genoah
Tabuyan
nurse
BEST SOUVENIRS Local
delicacies like moron (glutinous rice
cake) and bibingka (rice cake).
LOCAL SPEAK Say “maupay
na aga” which means “good
morning”.
INSIDER TIP Get active at UEP
white beach, where you can catch
waves that are ideal for skimboarding.
NELSON PETILLA
trip journal
PHILIPPINES
CALBAYOG
AREA CODE (55)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN You will fi nd tricycles at the
designated parking area after coming out of the
airport terminal building. These vehicles are
also typically the sole means of transport in and
around the city.
BY DAY Tour the city on a motorbike. The streets
aren’t too complicated to navigate so you won’t get
lost. The air in Calbayog is fresh and pollution-free,
so you’ll enjoy the refreshing breeze as you zip
around the city on your bike.
BY NIGHT Calbayog is a suburban place, so the
best way to enjoy your night out is by having a
drink with friends while eating fresh seafood at
the beach. Revel in the comforts of a classic outof-town
trip.
SLEEP Try I’s Plant Hotel, a former ice plantturned-hotel.
Rooms start at PHP700 per night.
The new Ciriaco Hotel is more luxe, with rates from
PHP4,800 a night. www.ciriacohotel.com
BEST LUNCH Fresh seafood!
Local fi shermen display their catch for
sale along the highway.
BEST SOUVENIRS At the local
public market, you can buy handmade
banig (woven mats).
BEST BUYS Go to Brgy Matobato
and buy some of Calbayog’s
specialties: tinapa (smoked fi sh) and
bulad (dried fi sh).
{ 96 }
Rei Julius
Gonzaga
executive (KSA)
BUY ONE GELATO, GET ONE FREE!
Simply present your Cebu Pacific boarding pass to our friendly serving staff
VALID AT ANY OF OUR ASIA STORES - PHILIPPINES / SINGAPORE / INDONESIA & MALAYSIA
EDGAR ALAN ZETA YAP
PHILIPPINES
DUMAGUETE
AREA CODE (35)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN There are taxis to help you get
around the city, as well as jeepneys and pedicabs
(which are powered by a bicycle). Once in town,
you can also rent a motorbike which is a really fun
way to get to where you need to go.
BY DAY Hike to Casaroro Falls in Valencia or take
a dip in the natural pools at Camp Lookout also in
Valencia. Serious trekkers can climb Mt Talinis of
the 1,903m Curenos de Negros mountain range.
Kayak at Balinsasayaw Twin Lakes in Sibulan.
BY NIGHT Hayahay Bar is a good place to have
a few drinks and enjoy live music by local artists.
For dancing, there’s El Camino Blanco next door.
For drinks, Mexican food and live music, check
out Coco Amigos on the famed Rizal Boulevard.
SLEEP Florentina Homes is perfect for families
or big groups. All units have two big bedrooms, a
living room and kitchenette, and poolside area.
www.fl orentinahomes.com
Nadia
Palomar-
Abesamis
marine biologist
BEST BREAKFAST American
breakfast at Why Not Restaurant
along Rizal Boulevard.
LOCAL SPEAK Practice saying
“lami kaayo” which translates to
“delicious”.
INSIDER TIP Make sure you
taste the local budbud (rice cake in
banana leaves) with a side dish of
ripe mangoes and hot chocolate.

SAMUEL DE LEON
trip journal
PHILIPPINES
BACOLOD
AREA CODE (34)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$.02)
TOUCHDOWN One arrives in Negros through
the Bacolod-Silay airport in Silay City. That’s
about 15km northeast of Bacolod City, or about
30 minutes’ drive if there are no traffi c jams. In
Bacolod, there are plenty of tricycles.
BY DAY Palmas del Mar Resort is a fi ve-acre
seafront property with fi ve swimming pools and
lounging areas, picnic huts, a fi shing lagoon and the
best amenities for an island getaway. J R Torres Ave,
tel: (34) 434 7971, www.palmasdelmarresort.net
BY NIGHT Dine at the Manokan Country and
try the authentic Bacolod chicken inasal. After
enjoying a hearty, delightful dinner, scooch over to
Calea’s (the main branch is on Lacson Street) for
delectable desserts such as the Oreo cheesecake.
SLEEP L’ Fisher Chalet is an extension of L‘Fisher
Hotel with a friendly and accommodating staff.
The hotel has salon, spa, fi tness room and
restaurant. www.lfi sherhotelbacolod.com
Ria
Akamatsu
marketing off icer
BEST SOUVENIRS Azatri’s shirts,
keychains and magnets or Masskara
souvenirs from Vito.
BEST FESTIVALS Don’t miss the
Masskara Festival every October and
the Panaad Festival in April.
INSIDER TIP Show your travel
itinerary at Merci shops in Mandalagan,
Singcang, SM City, Silay Airport and
Mayfair to get 10% off pasalubong items.
DID D YOU
KKNOW?
{ 98 }
PHILIPPINES
ILOILO
AREA CODE (33)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN There are taxi services available
ranging from PHP300 upwards. You can also hire
metered cabs right outside the airport. It’s a 30- to
45-minute ride to the city. Within the city, there
are tricycles and jeepneys.
BY DAY Neighboring Guimaras Island is only a
15-minute boat ride from Iloilo City. Check out
Raymen Beach Resort for day trips. Planning to
stay overnight? Villa Igang Beach resort offers
affordable rates. Tel: (33) 338 3177.
BY NIGHT Smallville along Diversion Road has
many restaurants, dessert and coffee shops and
bars to choose from. For dinner, try Afrique’s or
Mojave Grill & Steak House and Nothing-but-
Desserts if you’re craving for something sweet.
SLEEP Smallville 21 is a new hotel in Smallville.
Great interiors and amenities (cable, free Wi-Fi,
LCD TV) at standard room rates from PHP2,000
per night. Tel: +63 (33) 501 6821.
Carla
Patricia
Ascio
architect
BEST BREAKFAST Start your
day with La Paz batchoy at Ted’s or
Deco’s.
LOCAL SPEAK Say “palihog”
for “please”. “Tag-pila?” meaning
“how much?” is also useful.
BEST SOUVENIRS Mama’s
Kitchen’s crunchies, or crisp paperthin
cookies, and chewies which are
thicker and, yes, more chewy.
The remote beach town of Sipalay is
200km from Bacolod and Dumaguete.

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Landline No: (02) 896-3275
Mobile No: 0918-9250544
Cebu: ppihag_cebu@yahoo.com
Landline No: (032) 253-5075
Mobile No: 0920-9253512
Please compare, call and consult your doctor.
CHEWABLE
CAPSULE
ORANGE
FLAVOR

trip journal
PHILIPPINES
CATICLAN (BORACAY)
AREA CODE (36)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Take a short tricycle ride to the
Caticlan Jetty Port. From there, board a banca
which will transport you to Boracay Island. Here,
the main mode of transport is the tricycle, and
they are cheap and plentiful.
BY DAY Go island-hopping with Allan Fun Tours
or try water sports like parasailing or kiteboarding
for an unforgettable Boracay vacation. Diamond
Water Sports has a lot to offer at very affordable
prices.
BY NIGHT Boracay is a party island. But since
parties usually start late at night around here, you
can take a relaxing walk on the beach after dinner
then head to D’Talipapa or D’Mall for shopping
before dancing till the wee hours.
SLEEP The new Titay Resort in Station 2 has
air-conditioned rooms with hot and cold shower,
cable TV and refrigerator for only PHP1,500 per
night. Tel: +63 (922) 787 0117.
{ 100 }
Zaira Mae
Tumaob
Tayco
bank employee
BEST BUYS D’Jango’s leather
arts and crafts and Mito’s Crafts
both in Plazoleta at Station 2.
LOCAL SPEAK “Owa guid it
ayo?” meaning “Don’t you have a
discount?”
INSIDER TIP Visit Boracay
during the low season of June to
November when accommodations
are 30–60% cheaper than usual.
PHILIPPINES
KALIBO
AREA CODE (36)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN From the airport, the best way
to get to the city center is by tricycle — it’s cheap
and the Kalibo version is larger than the ones in
Manila. It can accommodate six adults, including
the driver.
BY DAY Learn about the province’s local history
at Museo it Akean. Walk through the 75-hectare
Kalibo Bakhawan Mangrove Reforestation Project,
one of the most successful reforestation projects
in Asia.
BY NIGHT Nightlife in Kalibo is quieter than
in the nearby island of Boracay. Listen to local
bands play in Kalibo, or head out to the seaside
community of Tambac in New Washington and
dine on freshly grilled seafood.
SLEEP Check into La Esperanza Hotel on
Osmeña Avenue, which is right next to the
bus terminal. Tel: (36) 262 3989/268 5254,
laesperanzahotel@yahoo.com
Dave Ryan
Buaron
teacher/Philippine
tourism social
media advocate
BEST BREAKFAST Tocanz
Lapaz Batchoy for some delicious
and hot batchoy (local noodle soup).
LOCAL SPEAK “Pwede paayo?”
which means “Can I get a
discount?”
BEST SOUVENIRS Dela Cruz
House of Piña is home of the best
quality souvenirs made of pinya
fi ber and abaca.
LESTER LEDESMA

GEORGE CABIG
PHILIPPINES
SAN JOSE
AREA CODE (43)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN You can take a tricycle from right
outside the airport to the town center for about
PHP50, inclusive of tip. To get around town, you
either walk or take tricycles, which are cheap and
easy to fi nd.
BY DAY You can go swimming or snorkeling in
Pandan Island, which is located in Sablayan.
You can also simply lounge by the shore to get a
golden tan. Or explore the trail behind the island,
which will lead you to a breathtaking lagoon!
BY NIGHT Unwind and enjoy the breeze in Aroma
Beach, where both locals and tourists like to hang
out. Come in the late afternoon, grab some drinks,
and watch the sun go down with your toes buried
in the sand.
SLEEP White House Safari Lodge is a two-storey
house near the beach that’s perfect for a big
group. Located in a quiet community with a fl ower
garden. Tel: +63 (43) 491 1656.
Dale Ibon
process control
and automation
engineer
BEST DINNER Bihon canton
at Chowder located on the national
road is a must-try!
BEST SOUVENIRS Fancy
bracelets and other trinkets made by
the Mangyans.
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
Go snorkeling in one of the best
snorkeling spots in the country —
Apo Reef.
trip journal
PHILIPPINES
CEBU
AREA CODE (32)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN At the Mactan Airport, it’s pretty
easy to hire a taxi service or even a private car
to take you to the city center. If you’re staying for
more than a few days, you can hire a car for that
time. There are metered cabs by the terminal too.
BY DAY Drive to Vaqueros Mountain Horse Trailing
Adventure in Cantipla. Go on a guided trail hike up
a mountain. Then try the zipline at K-33 AGreen
Adventure. With a 220m return, it’s the fastest in
Cebu and a cool way to go down the mountain.
BY NIGHT Go to Crossroads Mall or the IT Park
and take your pick of entertainment. For drinks,
try The Outpost where you can listen to local
bands. For a romantic and relaxed ambience, go
to the Bellini Champagne Bar.
SLEEP Marriott Hotel is right next to the Metro
Ayala Mall, in the heart of the city. It’s an ideal hotel
whether you’re in town for business or pleasure.
Tel: +63 (32) 411 5800.
Yvonne
Quisumbing
fashion designer
BEST DESSERT Casa Verde’s
decadent Death by Chocolate is a
must-try!
LOCAL SNACK Try the Hearty
Burger at Don Merto’s, 94 Juana
Osmeña Street.
BEST FESTIVAL In January,
come for the annual Sinulog
Festival, when people drink and
dance on the streets.
{ 101 }
3rd Quarter Fever
Plan your stay in advance!
Avail 60% off from our Rack
Rates on all bookings from
August 01-September 30, 2011
Malaga Studio - P4,700 nett*
Barcelona Suite – P6,600 nett*
Terms and conditions apply and
advance reservation is required.
For reservations,
call +632 828 4774
or visit
www.picassomakati.com
119 L.P. Leviste St., Salcedo Village,
Makati City, Philippines. 1227
T. 63 2 828 4774
F. 63 2 828 9141
E. reservations@picassomakati.com
W. http://www.picassomakati.com
M ANAGED BY:

trip journal
PHILIPPINES
PUERTO PRINCESA
AREA CODE (48)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Most hotels in Palawan can
arrange to have you picked up at the airport.
Tricycles to the city center cost about PHP35. Vans
are also available for hire and not too prohibitive
in cost.
BY DAY Explore the Puerto Princesa Underground
River in Sabang. For more adventure, take the
monkey trail going to the river which is another
two-hour trek in the woods and see the rich and
diverse exotic birds and monkeys up close.
BY NIGHT After dinner at Kalui or Kinabuchs,
drop by the Baywalk to enjoy the sea breeze and
lights. This is where locals go to relax. You can
also rent a bike for a minimal fee and tour the area
on two wheels.
SLEEP If you’re willing to rough it, do what the
backpackers do and stay at Banwa Pension House
where rooms start for as low as PHP300 per night.
www.banwa.com
{ 102 }
James Betia
blogger/traveler
BEST DINNER Order the mango
chicken salad, Ranga-Ranga, and garlic
crabs at Balinsasayaw Restaurant.
BEST BUYS Lamaya, danggit
(small dried and salted fi sh) soaked in
vinegar with lots of garlic and pepper.
INSIDER TIP Try to buy suran (fi sh)
and lato (seaweed) from the market and
ask the local restaurant to grill the suran
for you.
DID D YOU
KKNOW?
AL LINSANGAN
PHILIPPINES
BUSUANGA (CORON)
AREA CODE (48)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN From the airport, take a shuttle to
the town proper (Coron) which will cost you about
PHP150 per person. The ride takes 45 minutes
to one hour. Call tel: +63 (928) 408 3105/ (921)
265 2210 for more information.
BY DAY Visit Kayangan Lake, known as the
cleanest lake in the Philippines. Climb up 700
steps of Mt Tapyas to see the spectacular view
of the town. Go snorkeling at Siete Pecados and
swim with a variety of marine life.
BY NIGHT With the cool breeze and moonlight,
evening is the perfect time to visit Maquinit Hot
Springs. There may not be many clubs or bars
in Coron, but a night stroll around town is a great
option for those getting away from city noise.
SLEEP Darayonan Lodge in the town of Coron is
in a safe and secluded area where you can relax
and enjoy your privacy. Comfortable, affordable,
and with great service. www.darayonan.com
Rowena
Soterranea
Eusebio
exam service
assistant, British
Council
LOCAL SPEAK “Sabur!” is
“delicious” in Cuyonon; say it when
you’ve just had a gastronomic treat!
INSIDER TIP Book day trips
instead of packages with hotels to
save money.
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
Go to Twin Lagoons during high tide
and swim through the crevice to get
to the other lagoon.
You can dive in Honda Bay, a few
minutes north of Puerto Princesa.

WALTER VILLA
trip journal
PHILIPPINES
ROXAS
AREA CODE (36)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN You can fi nd Capiz Cab taxis
waiting in the designated areas outside the arrival
area of the Roxas airport. Once you’re within
the city, the tricycle remains the main means of
getting around. Tel: +63 (919) 707 9224.
BY DAY The city is named after former President
Manuel Roxas whose ancestral home still stands
today. Head to Olotayan Island, an hour away
from the city proper. Rent a cottage at the Olotayan
Beach Resort owned by Dos Hermanos.
BY NIGHT Head to the stretch of Baybay beach
for an evening of sumptuous food and the
company of nice people. Take your pick from
any of the restaurants that offer mouth-watering
seafood.
SLEEP The Roxas President’s Inn at the corner of
Rizal and Lopez Jaena Streets is close to the city’s
museum, cathedral and shopping spots. Room
rates from PHP980. www.roxaspresidentsinn.com
{ 104 }
Carl
James Uvas
senior off icer,
sourcing and
marketing
BEST BUYS If you’re looking for
danggit, head to the barangay of
Banica.
BEST DINNER We have our own
version of chicken inasal served by
RML Restaurant at Baybay beach.
INSIDER TIP Check out the
local SM (Sulod Mercado) at Bagong
Lipunan Market for souvenirs and
cheap fi nds.
LESTER LEDESMA
PHILIPPINES
TACLOBAN
AREA CODE (53)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN From the airport to downtown
area, a van (for PHP300) is most convenient as
it will drop you off at your hotel. There are multicabs,
jeepneys and tricycles, too. You can also
hire a car for longer stays.
BY DAY Head up north to Rafael Farm and
Restaurant where you can take in the fresh air of
the countryside or enjoy a boat ride on the lake.
Fancy the artwork on display in the dining area?
They’re for sale. www.rafaelfarm.com
BY NIGHT Head to Tacloban City Astrodome
for many options: Bugs Restobar, Bugs Videoke
Lounge and Crew Bar Sports Grill. More bars are
located at Club 6500 such as Na Ning Sports Bar
and Lounge.
SLEEP Hotel Alejandro offers a bit of history and
good accommodations. Room rates range from
PHP1,100–1,750++ per night. www. alejandro.
tacloban.biz
Maribel
Tezon
Elizarde
housewife
BEST SOUVENIRS Banig
(mat) made from buri and sea grass
called tikog.
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
Binagol, pastillas and moron are
must-try’s and must-buy’s.
INSIDER TIP Try the fi sh skin
chicharon which they say is found
only in Ocho Seafood and Grill.
Tel: +63 (53) 325 4171.

WALTER VILLA
PHILIPPINES
TAGBILARAN
AREA CODE (38)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.20)
TOUCHDOWN The airport is within the city, and
there are plenty of tricycles, PHP6 for the ride. For
trips to nearby towns, there are vans and taxis for
hire. It takes about 20 minutes to get to Panglao
Island as traffi c jams are rare.
BY DAY Tour Bohol’s famous landmarks: The
Chocolate Hills, the Baclayon Church, the Blood
Compact Shrine and the man-made Mahogany
Forest, the Butterfl y Conservation Center in Bilar
and the longest snake in captivity in Albuquerque.
BY NIGHT The Loboc River Night Cruise offers a
serene cruise experience. Enjoy the buffet dinner
while spying on fi refl ies atop trees along the
riverbank. In the city, book a harborview dinner at
Café Anastacio at the Bohol Tropics Resort.
SLEEP Panglao Island Resort has excellent
facilities by the white sand beach, and is just
a 15-minute drive from the city downtown.
Tel: +63 (38) 411 2599, www.panglaoisland.com
Paul
Jairus Borja
student
BEST BREAKFAST Healthy
and organic breakfast meal with
corn coffee at the Bohol Bee Farm.
BEST BUYS Calamay jagna,
Peanut Kisses, Tarsier souvenirs and
pesto spread from Bohol Bee Farm.
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
The zipline in Danao or snorkeling
in Balicasag Island top my list of
must-try’s!
RALPHAEL LAS MARIAS
trip journal
PHILIPPINES
ZAMBOANGA
AREA CODE (62)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN From the airport, take a jeepney
(PHP7) or tricycle (PHP20–25) to the pueblo (city)
as there are only a few taxis. Plissap Rent-A-Car
charges a minimum of PHP150, and may be the
best way to go.
BY DAY Go for an early morning run along the
Boulevard, a long stretch of pavement by the sea.
Then go on a tour that all fi rst-timer tourists should
not miss — the Fort Pilar, City Museum, Pasonanca
Park, Yakan Village, Barter and La Vista del Mar.
BY NIGHT Go on a food trip! Try Barcode’s spicy
beef and cordon bleu, and Palmeras’s bopis,
seafood with oyster sauce, and the famous Knicker
Bocker. Finish off with beer or hot coffee along
Paseo del Mar while listening to live music.
SLEEP Garden Orchid Hotel has a gym, sauna
and outdoor pool. At night, check out the hotel’s
two bars: The Lobby Bar and Ground Zero.
www.gardenorchidhotel.com
BEST SOUVENIRS Purchase a
set of original white pearls at Lantaka
Hotel or the Barter.
INSIDER TIP Negotiate the fare
before taking a ride on the tricycles to
avoid arguments and delay.
LOCAL SPEAK “Sabroso”
(“Delicious”), “kwanto?” (“how
much?”) and “quetal?” (“how are
you?”).
{ 105 }
Angeli
Nashreen
Alonso
nurse/midwife

LESTER LEDESMA
trip journal
PHILIPPINES
GENERAL SANTOS
AREA CODE (83)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Hire a taxi at the airport for a
fl at rate (PHP300–350). If you don’t have much
luggage, a habal-habal (passenger motorbike) for
PHP100 will do. In the city, tricycles that will be
your main means of getting around.
BY DAY Arrange to have lunch at Sarangani
Highlands overlooking Sarangani Bay. Check out
the driftwood furniture, art painted on the doors by
local artist Dopong Evidente, and appreciate the
gardens. saranganihighlands@gmail.com
BY NIGHT Take a walk along the newly
landscaped Gen Paulino Santos Park. End the
night at Big Shoot with bottles of ice-cold beer
with musical entertainment courtesy of GenSan’s
local bands.
SLEEP Stay at SunCity Suites, one of GenSan’s
newest hotels. Each room has internet and LCD TV.
Be on the lookout for promo offers to get the best
rates. Tel: +63 (83) 303 3333/552 3333.
Danny
Dayon Sabino
media/ICT consultant/
NGO for peace and
development
LOCAL SPEAK “Magandang
Gensan” is a popular greeting
among us.
BEST BUYS Get coco sugar, a
healthy alternative sweetener, for
health-conscious family and friends.
BEST SOUVENIRS Shop
for boxing champ Manny Pacquiao
merchandise at the Pacman
Souvenir Shop at Robinsons.
{ 106 }
JOJIE ALCANTARA
PHILIPPINES
DAVAO
AREA CODE (82)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Francisco Bangoy International
Airport or the Davao International Airport is about
15 minutes away from the city center. Davaoeño
cabbies are known for their honesty, so a taxi from
the airport to the hotel is a good option.
BY DAY Relax at Paradise Beach Resort (www.
paradiseislanddavao.com) in Samal Island, 20
minutes by boat from the city. Go nature-tripping at
the Philippine Eagle Ridge (www.eagleridgedavao.
com) and the Orchid Garden in Calinan.
BY NIGHT Dine on delicious seafood at Jack’s
Ridge with views of Davao City. Another option is
Manong Ed’s where buffet dinners go for PHP99.
Before calling it a night, visit BluGre Café — the
durian latté is a must-try.
SLEEP If you’d like to experience some luxury,
check in at Marco Polo hotel. They have the
yummiest steaks and a luxurious spa called Lazuli
Spa. www.marcopolohotels.com
Andrei Aino
Garchitorena
banker
LOCAL SPEAK Say “daghang
salamat”, meaning “thank you”, to
the locals.
BEST SOUVENIRS Visit
Aldevinco Shopping Center and
shop for accessories and shawls.
INSIDER TIP Make sure to carry
small bills when you take the cab.
Our taxi drivers always insist on
giving the exact change.

LESTER LEDESMA
PHILIPPINES
CAGAYAN DE ORO
AREA CODE (88)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Cebu Pacifi c runs a shuttle van
to town. Or you can take a taxi for PHP300 or
a cheaper jeepney service for PHP20. Taxis,
jeepneys, motorcycles and multicabs ply the
town proper.
BY DAY Adventure-seekers should try whitewater
rafting. For more laid-back activities, drive
to Bukidnon to visit the Del Monte pineapple
plantation, or order a sumptuous steak at the
Cawayanon Club House.
BY NIGHT Head to Limketkai Center for a night
out on the town. You’ll fi nd rows and rows of
restaurants, bars and coffee shops all within a few
steps away from each other. Or catch the last full
show at the cinemas.
SLEEP Mallberry Suites at the Limketkai Center
beside Robinsons Mall has a great location, nice
rooms, on-site restaurants and a bar. Room rates
from P1,900++ per night. www.mallberrysuites.net
Derrick
Delegencia
lawyer
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
Feel the adrenaline rush of whitewater
rafting!
BEST DINNER Kagay-anon
restaurant and Countryside
Steakhouse.
BEST BUYS Fresh fruits, such
as lanzones and durian when in
season, and homemade ham by
Mateus Ham.
BOBBY TIMONERA
trip journal
PHILIPPINES
BUTUAN
AREA CODE (85)
CURRENCY PHP1 = US$0.02
TOUCHDOWN From the airport, you can hire a
taxi or a van to take you to the city proper. Once in
the city, you do as the Butuan residents do — hop
on the ubiquitous tricycle which is the main way
to get from place to place.
BY DAY Visit the Balangay Shrine Museum to see
the excavation site of the balanghai (boat). At the
Butuan Regional Museum, see rare and interesting
archeological fi nds. Love the outdoors? Check out
the camping sites at Mount Mabalo and Mayapay.
BY NIGHT Sample an assortment of wines and
beers at the newly opened Boy’s Beer and Wine
Room. Have coffee and Cookie Monster cake at
Margie’s. Or have a drink at The Bar located at
The Inland Hotel.
SLEEP Almont Hotel by the Rizal Park has a cozy
lobby, spacious rooms and commendable service.
Walking distance from the city center and the
Gaisano Mall. Tel: +63 (85) 342 7414.
BEST DINNER Fresh seafood
kinilaw (fi sh in vinegar and ginger)
and BBQ chicken at Weegol’s.
INSIDER TIP Discover the secret
surf spots in Lianga, Surigao del Sur,
a one-hour drive from Butuan City.
LOCAL SPEAK “Ato ini,
kadyawan ta!” is a phrase to express
local pride. It means, “This is ours.
Let’s do it well!”
{ 107 }
Macky Calo
businessman

trip journal
PHILIPPINES
SURIGAO
AREA CODE (86)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Upon your arrival, you can hire
a jeepney or a tricycle to get around the city.
Although there are no taxis, most hotels offer a
complimentary van pick-up from the airport as
well as for departure.
BY DAY Book a day tour to Socorro and discover
the secret of Sohoton Cave. Then bravely swim
with non-stinging jellyfi sh in Lake Tajuman. Take a
small-boat cruise around the Day-asan mangrove
farm, or drive up to the famous Mainit Lake.
BY NIGHT Enjoy seafood and videoke at
Dales Restaurant or party with the locals in
Club Alcatraz. Go for a barefoot stroll along the
shoreline and watch the sunset in Mabua Pebble
Beach, or head to the Boulevard for moon-gazing.
SLEEP Fiesta Diving Resort’s rooms have
beachfront views and affordable rates. They also
have a swimming pool that’s best enjoyed in the
evenings. Brgy Ipil, Surigao City.
{ 108 }
Jelyn
Tisang
business analyst
BEST BREAKFAST Danggit,
omelet, fried rice and tablea hot
chocolate drink.
BEST DINNER Chicken BBQ at
Carmen’s or Loty’s. Eat with clean,
bare hands!
BEST SOUVENIRS Make
sure to stock up on Peanut Delights
or tablea chocolate from Lovely
Pasalubong.
DID D YOU
KKNOW?
EDGAR ALAN ZETA YAP
PHILIPPINES
SIARGAO
AREA CODE (86)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Taxis are available both at the
airport and at Dapa Pier. You can also ride a
habal-habal or an extended-seat motorbike to get
to your lodgings. On the island itself, there are
mini and jeepney buses.
BY DAY Hit the waves at “G1” (Giwan), hop over
to Guyam Islet, or take a leisure cruise along the
Del Carmen mangroves or a refreshing dip at the
Magpupungko Tidal Pool. Of course, don’t miss the
world-famous Cloud 9 surf spot near Gen Luna.
BY NIGHT Check out the rows of karaoke huts
and mingle with the locals, or chill out at Nine Bar
and chat with the surfers. Better yet, hang out by
the seaside and listen to the relaxing sound of the
waves. They just may lull you to sleep.
SLEEP Kalinaw (“peaceful” in Visayan) is owned
by two Frenchmen who dreamed of a life of sun,
sand and luxury. Spacious rooms with Jacuzzi,
from PHP7,000+ a night. www.kalinawresort.com
John Mark
Libarnes
web and graphic
designer/
photographer
INSIDER TIP There’s no need to
bring your own surfboard — there
are plenty on the island.
BEST BREAKFAST Ocean
101, where they bake their own
bread, served fresh from the oven.
BEST DINNER Kick off your
shoes and go barefoot while dining
at the Bali-inspired Kawayan
Restaurant.
Surigao’s annual Marajaw Karajaw
festival means “very good”.

trip journal
PHILIPPINES
COTABATO
AREA CODE (64)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN You can hire a taxi at the airport
for PHP100–200. When in the city, you can get
around by tricycle, jeepney or even hail a cab
as there are a few taxis that make the rounds of
the town.
BY DAY Sightsee at Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah
Masjid (the grandest mosque in the Philippines),
People’s Palace, Heritage Museum and Lourdes
Grotto. Shop at South Seas and Cotabato Barter.
Get a wellness treatment at Nuat Thai.
BY NIGHT Enjoy the evening disco dancing
and singing along to videoke at Café Florencio.
You can also savor a long leisurely dinner while
a band plays in the background at Avenue Grill
Restaurant.
SLEEP Estosan Garden Hotel is near everything
and offers promotions for both short and long stay
accommodations. The hotel is just 3.5km from the
city center. www.estosanhotel.com
BEST BREAKFAST Native
food called pastil (rice with toppings)
at Kitok’s Litson House.
BEST DINNER Try some
of our local dishes like Pagana
Maguindanaon.
BEST SOUVENIRS Shop for
malongs, veils, banig and other
cultural items at Cotabato Barter
and Sariling Atin.
{ 110 }
Warda
Lugioman
finance off icer
DID D YOU
KKNOW?
LESTER LEDESMA
PHILIPPINES
OZAMIZ
AREA CODE (88)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN The Ozamiz City Airport is in
Gango. You will need to take a taxi and the ride
will set you back PHP60. Within the city, get
around town by sikad (bicycle with a sidecar) for
PHP4-6 only.
BY DAY Visit Naomi’s Botanical Gardens and
marvel at their fruit trees, orchids and bonsai.
Stroll in their rose garden. Check out their ceramic
shop where you can buy jars and other home
décor. Swing by Cotta Shrine, an old Spanish fort.
BY NIGHT M Bar and Celtic are recommended
for those who want to sample the local nightlife.
If you’re looking for a relaxing place, check out
Dewberry Coffee Shop just outside M Bar — it has
free Wi-Fi, so take your laptop or iPad2.
SLEEP Bethany Gardens Resort is a perfect
home base when you’re in Ozamiz. It’s quite
close to the airport and has a swimming pool.
www.bethanygardensresort.com
June Isis
Evasco
human
resources
BEST SOUVENIRS Delicious
suman (rice cakes in banana leaves)
from House of Suman.
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
Visit Cotta Shrine to appreciate the
history of Ozamiz.
INSIDER TIP Tour the city on
the sikad (pedicab) for only PHP4
per ride, compared to a tricycle
which costs PHP7.
Ozamiz City was named after the
late Senator Jose Ozamiz.

PHILIPPINES
DIPOLOG
AREA CODE (65)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN There are tricycles as well as
single motorcycle services from the airport to
the city. The fare is negotiable, ranging from
PHP10–30. Once in the city, tricycles will be your
main means of transport.
BY DAY Climb the 3,003 steps to Linabo Peak
to view the twin cities of Dipolog and Dapitan
where the annual Katkat Sakripisyo is held during
the Lenten Season. Visit Sicayab Beach, a 7km
stretch of fi ne gray sand and enjoy water sports.
BY NIGHT Dipolog has bars by the seaside, in
the middle of a fi shpond and a ricefi eld. Most of
these are located within the city limits. Pack some
snacks and a beach blanket, then stargaze on the
beach or on a ricefi eld.
SLEEP Mibang Hotel has a swimming pool and
a bar, and is located in the outskirts of the city
proper. Sta Filomena, Dipolog, www.dipologcity.
com/MibangHotelhrrad.htm
Jonas
James Lim
businessman/
photographer
BEST DINNER City Boulevard
for barbecue, puso (rice in a coconut
leaf pouch) and soup number 5.
LOCAL SPEAK “Maayong
buntag/udto/ hapon/gabi-i” (“Good
morning/noon/afternoon/evening”).
BEST BUYS Dipolog S and J
Handicraft (formerly Boholana)
for souvenirs, and Urquiaga’s for
chorizong hubad (local sausage).
trip journal
PHILIPPINES
PAGADIAN
AREA CODE (02)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN Tricycles are the main means of
transport around the city. What’s more, Pagadian’s
tricycles are unique: they’re inclined at a 25˚ to
40˚ angle which allows them to negotiate the
exceptionally hilly terrain.
BY DAY Go to Palpalan and enjoy the fresh
air and breathtaking scenic view of the whole
Pagadian. Shop till you drop at the biggest mall
owned by the city government called C-3 (the City
Commercial Center).
BY NIGHT Spend the evening at Pagadian Bay
Plaza Hotel and enjoy a sumptuous spread of
sizzling blue marlin, teriyaki and beef steak at the
hotel’s Sizzlers Restaurant. Then try your luck at
Pagcor’s e-games.
SLEEP Pagadian Bay Plaza Hotel’s budget rooms
start at PHP850 a night, and the Presidential
Suite with Wi-Fi goes for PHP3,500 a night.
www.pagadianbayplazahotel.com
BEST SOUVENIRS The local
lechon (suckling pig) or their version
of tuyo (dried fi sh) called bulad.
LOCAL SPEAK Learn to say
“Hangyo ko, bai” which means
“Discount, my friend!”
MUST-TRY EXPERIENCE
Ride the local tricycle, which
is inclined at 45˚ and designed
specifi cally for the city’s hilly streets.
{ 112 }
Eunice
Jayne Ong
entrepreneur
EDGAR ALAN ZETA YAP
PHILIPPINES
TAWI-TAWI
Amir
Mawallil
journalist/
researcher
BEST BREAKFAST Your
Choice for good Italian-style
pizza and pasta.
BEST DINNER Kamayan ni
Manay for seafood dishes cooked
local-style.
LOCAL SPEAK Say
“Assalamualaykum”, a Muslim
greeting that means “Peace be upon
you” (most residents are Muslim).
FERDZ DECENA
AREA CODE (65)
CURRENCY Philippine Peso (PHP1 = US$0.02)
TOUCHDOWN There are no cabs in Tawi-Tawi.
Tricycles are everywhere, though, especially in
Bongao, the capital. Drivers charge PHP15–20
per 5km. To visit nearby islands, rent a lantsa
(small motorboat) for about PHP100.
BY DAY Go island-hopping, from Bongao to its
neighboring municipality, Simunul. Visit the Sheik
Makdum Mosque, the country’s oldest mosque.
Check out neighboring island Sitangkai, called
“Venice of the South” for its fl oating market.
BY NIGHT Exercise those leg muscles and hike
to the top of Bongao Peak, the highest point in the
province. Visit the Capitol building in Bongao and
enjoy beautiful panoramic views of the island, or
tour around a Badjao water village.
SLEEP Rachel’s Place Hotel and Restaurant has
spacious rooms with air-conditioning and cable
TV. From PHP950 per room per night. Ilmon
Street Lamion, Bongao, tel: +63 (68) 268 1248.

Where to next?
Asia
map legend
Cebu Pacifi c Hub
City with airport
Cebu Pacifi c International fl ight
Cebu Pacifi c Domestic fl ight
Cebu Pacifi c new route
route map
Bangkok
Kuala Lumpur
CHINA
THAILAND
Ho Chi Minh City
MALAYSIA
Singapore
Jakarta
Beijing
Guangzhou
Macau
VIETNAM
SINGAPORE
INDONESIA
Shanghai
Kota Kinabalu
Bandar Seri Begawan
{ 114 }
Incheon
Hong Kong
BRUNEI
KOREA
CLARK
Taipei
TAIWAN
Busan
MANILA
CEBU
JAPAN
Osaka
THE PHILIPPINES

Puerto Princesa
Busuanga
Tawi-Tawi
CLARK
MANILA
route map
Laoag
San Jose
Tuguegarao
Cauayan
Caticlan
Zamboanga
{ 115 }
Kalibo
Roxas
Iloilo
The Philippines
Naga
Bacolod
Legazpi
Dumaguete
Dipolog
Pagadian
Catarman
Calbayog
CEBU
Tagbilaran
Ozamiz
Cotabato
Virac
Tacloban
Surigao
Siargao
Cagayan De Oro
Butuan
DAVAO
General Santos

Be one of 12 million
passengers fl ying
Cebu Pacifi c in 2011
It's a year of
amazing growth
CEBU PACIFIC AIR (CEB) fl ew more
than 3.1 million passengers from April
to June 2011 (second quarter), beating
its second quarter 2010 fi gures.
The airline posted a 15% systemwide
year-on-year growth, with
international passengers up by 21%,
and domestic passengers up by 13%,
compared to the same period last
year. That's 683,000 international
and over 2.4 million domestic
passengers in the second quarter of
2011, compared to over 2.7 million
fl own in the second quarter of 2010.
The airline is on track to achieving its
12 million-passenger target in 2011.
Passengers to and from Singapore
went up by 22% year-on-year, while
loads to and from North Asia grew by
13%, led by Taiwan (up 66%), South
Korea (up 42%) and China (up 38%).
Book now at tel: +63 (2) 7020 888/
(32) 230 8888 www.cebupacifi cair.
com, funtours.cebupacifi cair.com (fun
tours and packages). Get the latest
seat sales and promos on CEB’s
offi cial Twitter and Facebook pages.
Enjoy the perks
of membership!
SIGN UP as a member of the Cebu Pacifi c
(CEB) Club, and avail of these benefi ts:
• View your current and previous bookings
• Update your contact and travel document
details for fast and easy booking
• Avail of special marketing offers and
discounts!
Since the CEB system stores a
member’s payment details, there's no need
to retype the same information each time
you book a fl ight. And best of all, applying
for your CEB Club membership is so easy.
All you need to do is go online and click
on book.cebupacifi cair.com/Register.aspx.
Register today!
airline news
Left to right: CEB Chief Executive Adviser Garry
Kingshott, Citibank Philippines’ Consumer Markets
Head Sergio Zanatti, CEB President and CEO Lance
Gokongwei, and Citibank Philippines’ Country Offi cer
Sanjiv Vohra during the launch of the Cebu Pacifi c
Citibank Card.
CEBU PACIFIC (CEB) partnered up with
Citibank, the world’s most respected fi nancial
services company, to launch the new Cebu
Pacifi c Citibank Card. Dubbed “The Juan card
you need,” the new Cebu Pacifi c Citibank Card
offers cardholders advanced notices on seat
sales, which they will receive via free SMS and
email alerts two hours before seat sales are
announced to the public.
According to Sergio Zanatti, Citibank
Philippines’ Consumer Markets Head, ”We've
had a lot of success in addressing the unique
needs of travelers, and we are confi dent that
with this latest product, we will cement our
leadership position as the one credit card you
need to take you places.”
Cardholders will also earn never-expiring
CEB Points from purchases made in any
establishment. Every peso charged to a Cebu
Pacifi c Citibank Card is equivalent to one
CEB Point. The accumulated CEB Points can be
redeemed as Cebu Pacifi c e-vouchers and used
to book online without any restrictions on fares
and destinations, unlike other mileage cards.
{ 116 }
The
Cebu Pacific
Citibank
Card
Introducing the
Juan card you need
“We encourage every Juan to apply for the
Cebu Pacifi c card before October 15, 2011, as
all approved card applicants will be entitled to a
welcome gift of a free one-way ticket to select
CEB domestic or international destinations,”
said CEB CEO and President Lance Gokongwei.
Cebu Pacifi c cardholders can enjoy the same
features and benefi ts of all Citibank credit cards
such as PayLite Installment Plan, Citi One
Bill, Citi Mobile and the Citi World Privileges
Program. Cebu Pacifi c cardholders will also
receive assistance from friendly Customer
Service Executives for restaurant reservations,
tips for shopping, pre-trip information,
emergency assistance and much more by
calling 1 800 1441 0014. Other exclusive
discounts and benefi ts are also available
year-round when you shop, dine and unwind at
Resorts World Manila.
What are you waiting for? Apply for the
Cebu Pacifi c Citibank Card now by calling
tel: +63 (2) 423 3000 or simply text CITI
CEBUPAC to 2600. For more information,
visit www.citibank.com.ph

PHOTO LESTER LEDESMA (DAVAO)
airline news
Cebu Pacifi c’s new A321neo aircraft
will make trips to India, Australia and
northern Japan possible.
The sky is the limit!
CEBU PACIFIC AIR (CEB) takes another giant
stride in the country’s commercial aviation
industry with its recent order of 30 new Airbus
A321neo (New Engine Option) and seven
additional A320 aircraft, with options for 10
more A321neos. Valued at about US$3.8
billion, it is the largest single aircraft order ever
made by a Philippine carrier, and the largest for
the Airbus A321neo worldwide.
"This is great news for passengers," said CEB
CEO and President Lance Gokongwei, saying
that this will allow the airline to expand its
network of destinations, and offer lower fares.
“These 220-seater aircraft will be a real game-
changer for Cebu Pacifi c because the A321neo
will have a much longer range. We'll be able
to serve cities in Australia, India and northern
Japan, places the A320 cannot reach.”
CEB’s A320 and A321neo aircraft will be
delivered between 2015 and 2021. These are
on top of current fi rm orders for 18 Airbus A320
aircraft scheduled for delivery from the second
half of 2011 until 2014. The new order for more
aircraft increases CEB’s total fi rm orders of
Airbus aircraft to 55. The A321neo is a larger
and longer-haul version of the Airbus A320,
and CEB’s fl eet will be a fi rst of its type to
operate in the Philippines.
CEB lauds country’s top students
KUDOS TO THE 2011 Ten Outstanding Students
of the Philippines (TOSP), who were awarded in
a ceremony held last August 4 in Malacañang.
As the offi cial airline partner, Cebu Pacifi c (CEB)
fl ew fi nalists from different regions to Manila for
the week-long national activities.
The 10 winners are Geminn Louis Apostol
(Ateneo de Manila University), Christopher
Millora (West Visayas State University),
Kendrick Nigel Tan (Centro Escolar University),
Jonathan Andro Tan (Silliman University), Sean
Vincent Aquilino (UP-Diliman), Julius Paul Juen
(University of St La Salle), Sittie Norhane Lao
(Mindanao State University), Maria Angelica
Reyes (DLSU-Lipa City), Arleen delos Reyes
(University of Nueva Caceres), and Athena Plaza
(University of San Carlos).
“We wish them the best of luck in their roles
in nation-building,” said CEB VP for Marketing
and Distribution Candice Iyog.
{ 117 }
More fl ights mean you
can visit Davao anytime!
CEB is Davao's
top airline
CEBU PACIFIC (CEB) fl ew the most
passengers to and from Davao during
the second quarter of 2011, gaining
44.4% of the local market share in the
Philippines’ main southern hub. From
April to June this year, the airline
operated with an 85% load factor,
fl ying 318,694 passengers — that’s
130,000 more than that of three other
airlines operating to and from Davao.
CEB boasts the most fl ights to and
from Davao: 45x weekly fl ights to and
from Manila, 24x weekly fl ights to and
from Cebu, daily Davao-Zamboanga
and Davao-Iloilo routes, and 4x
weekly Davao-CDO fl ights.
“We’ll continue offering our low
fares to stimulate travel and trade in
Southern Philippines, with Davao
as the main hub,” said CEB VP for
Marketing and Distribution Candice
Iyog.
On October 1, CEB will add 4x
weekly fl ights from Manila–Davao,
making it a 7x daily service. On
October 7, an additional daily
Manila-Davao fl ight makes it an 8x
daily service. The Cebu-Davao-Cebu
service will go from 24x weekly to 28x
times weekly from October 14. Book
now at tel: +63 (2) 7020 888/(32)
230 8888 www.cebupacifi cair.com,
funtours.cebupacifi cair.com (fun tours
and packages). Get the latest seat
sales and promos on CEB’s offi cial
Twitter and Facebook pages.