november-2012

TIGER AIRWAYS MAGAZINE 

NOV-DEC 2012 

Edgy art, fi ne food, airborne adventure: 

Tasmania’s capital hits new heights 

+ GUANGZHOU + PERTH + KOCHI + PHNOM PENH 

YOUR 

PERSONAL 

COPY

PHOTOGRAPHY LESTER LEDESMA 

EDITORIAL 

Editor Duncan Forgan 

Art Director Adi Effendy 

Senior Sub-Editor/ 

Touchdown Editor Ross Wallace 

Touchdown Philippines Editor 

Kristine Fonacier 

Senior Photo Editor Nicola McCoy 

Deputy Design Director (Singapore) 

Terence Goh 

Design Director (Singapore) 

Peter Stephens 

Editorial Director (Singapore) 

Liz Weselby 

Executive Creative Director 

Michael Keating 

ADVERTISING 

Group Publisher Shirley D’Souza 

Associate Publisher Anjumoni Konwer 

Infl ight Media Specialists Andreas 

Wibowo, Kes Kho & 

Monica Chugani 

Production Manager Helen Uy Punzalan 

Group Production Manager Asia 

Serene Wong 

Managing Director Gerry Ricketts 

Chief Financial Offi cer Hugh Godsal 

CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke 

Publishing Director Simon Leslie 

Tiger Tales is published for 

Tiger Airways by INK, 

MICA (P) 201/07/2012 

CONTACT INK: 

89 Neil Road #03-01, Singapore 088849 

Tel: +65 6324 2386 

Advertising: 

tiger.ads@ink-global.com 

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tiger.ed@ink-global.com 

Website: www.tigertales.sg 

TIGER AIRWAYS 

Director of Corporate Communications 

Teo Lay Cheng 

Tiger Airways Singapore Pte Ltd 

(ARBN 119 900 757; CRN 200312665W) 

Tiger Airways Australia Pty Limited 

(ABN 52 124 369 008) 

FOR PRE-FLIGHT ENQUIRIES AND 

RESERVATIONS, CALL: 

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FOR POST-FLIGHT QUERIES, 

PLEASE WRITE TO: 

Commercial Services Department 

Tiger Airways Singapore Pte Ltd 

Changi Airport Post Offi ce 

PO Box 181, Singapore 918147 

Commercial Services Department 

Tiger Airways Australia Pte Ltd 

PO Box 2101, Gladstone Park 

Melbourne, Victoria 3043, Australia 

http://gethelp.tigerairways.com/pages/ 

intro.php 

Passengers reap 

rewards as Tiger 

picks up its stride 

We’re not ashamed to blow our own trumpet when we do things 

well. For this reason, there has been a lot of noise around Tiger 

Airways HQ of late as we continue to expand our network, 

improve our performance and punctuality, and introduce new 

products to the benefi t of our customers. 

As expected, the move to our new den at Changi Airport 

Terminal 2 went smoothly and our passengers are now reaping 

the rewards thanks to the terminal’s expansive retail and F&B 

options, not to mention its easy access to Singapore’s MRT system. 

It’s all part of our mission to be the very best that we can be. Our status as one of 

Singapore’s most punctual and reliable carriers is testament to our success. Passenger 

satisfaction is vital and, with our range of amazing deals and innovations such as 

our new mobile app, we feel that we’re not just meeting but exceeding expectations. 

What’s more, we continue to expand our network in Asia. Our latest new routes 

connect travellers to Cambodia’s vibrant capital, Phnom Penh, and to Hyderabad 

in South India. Meanwhile, our partner airline, Mandala, has launched direct routes 

from Singapore to two more destinations in Indonesia: Bali and Padang. Stay tuned 

for news about more new additions to our route map. 

With this very much in mind, we’ve done our best to accentuate the incredible scope 

of our network in this issue of the magazine. With Lonely Planet among those lauding 

Hobart recently, there has never been a better time to visit Tasmania’s capital. 

Check out our three-day itinerary for ideas on where to eat and what to do. Elsewhere, 

we go canyoning in the central highlands of Vietnam, gorge ourselves in the 

restaurants of Guangzhou and get a bit of culture in Kochi, home to India’s fi rst ever 

biennale, and Phnom Penh, where a legacy of creativity is inspiring a new generation. 

And don’t forget, if you want to get ahead of the queue every time to take advantage 

of our fantastic promotions and consistently low fares, sign up with Stripes at www. 

tigerairways.com/stripes. Happy travels! 

Stewart Adams 

Managing Director 

Tiger Airways Singapore 

www.facebook.com/tigertalesasia 

© INK. All material in Tiger Tales is 

strictly copyrighted and all rights 

are reserved. Reproduction without 

permission of the publisher is strictly 

forbidden. Every care has been taken 

in compiling the contents of this magazine, but we 

assume no responsibility for the effects arising 

therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine 

are not necessarily those of the publisher or Tiger 

Airways. All information is correct at press time. 

TIGER AIRWAYS MAGAZINE 


Edgy art, fi ne food, airborne adventure: 

Tasmania’s capital hits new heights 

2006 

+ GUANGZHOU + PERTH YOUR + KOCHI + PHNOM PENH 

PERSONAL 

COPY 

WELCOME ABOARD 

THIS ISSUE’S 

COVER 

2010 

IMAGES: 

GETTY IMAGES 

DIGITAL IMAGING: 

RHAPSODI 

nov-dec tiger tales 

1

36 

“As the younger 

generation fi nds a 

voice, Phnom Penh is 

resounding to a daring 

new soundtrack” 

56 

“Dalat is best known for 

its temperate climate but 

its river valleys are fast 

gaining renown among 

adventure seekers” 

76 

contents 


“If you’ve ever had 

fantasies about being a 

fi ghter pilot, you can get 

a sense of what it’s like 

in Hobart. Tasmania’s 

landscapes have to be 

seen from this vantage 

point to be believed” 

48 

“Shanxia Jiu is ground 

zero for admirers of 

Cantonese food. Many 

of the cuisine’s traditions 

were forged here” 

66 

“An unlikely trendsetter, 

historic Kochi will set 

a benchmark when it 

plays host to India’s fi rst 

international art festival” 

nov-dec tiger tales

CALENDAR 

What’s On 

OVERNIGHTER 

Penghu, 

Taiwan 

TOP FIVE 

Asian and Australian 

crime fi ction 

FIRST-TIME 

TRAVELLER 

Adelaide 

HOTEL REPORT 

Historical Hipsters 

FOCUS 

Sprouting From 

the Rooftops 

8 

10 

10 

13 

14 

16 

contents 


REGULARS 

ON THE MENU 

Borneo Bites 

ON THE GRILL 

Back Alley Cat 

AT A GLANCE 

Half Pints 

MY HOMETOWN 

John Roberts 

TEST DRIVE 

Wireless For Sound 

1 Welcome Note 85 Route Map 86 Touchdown 106 Tiger News 110 Tiger Tips 112 Snapshot 

DAISY 

CARRINGTON 

is a globetrotting 

food 

obsessive 

who has 

eight years 

of journalism experience 

tucked under her increasingly 

snug belt. She’s torn through 

nearly every continent and 

has tried her hand at caving, 

mountaineering and gladiator 

training. She’s penned travel 

pieces for CNN and Time Out 

among many others. 

tiger tales nov-dec 

14 

31 

NICK 

WALTON 

has been a 

dedicated 

travel writer 

for more than 

a decade. 

Formerly the travel editor at the 

South China Morning Post, he’s 

currently the managing editor 

of travel lifestyle magazines 

Jetsetter and Elite Traveler Asia. 

When Nick’s not on the road, 

he’s exploring the markets and 

food culture of his adopted 

home, Hong Kong. 

CONTRIBUTORS 

27 

35 

STEVEN 

FRENCH is a 

Tasmanianbornphotographer 

and writer. 

He has had 

several solo exhibitions and 

is an award-winning author. 

His 2010 book Hand Made in 

Tasmania was on the state’s 

bestseller list for several 

weeks. Work takes him to 

Hobart on a regular basis, 

where he spends time checking 

out restaurants and pubs. 

23 

25 

27 

31 

35 

GEMMA 

PRICE arrived 

in Vietnam 

owing to 

a happy 

accident over 

six years 

ago (she took a wrong turn 

somewhere between Australia 

and the US). She covers travel 

and lifestyle in South-East Asia 

for publications like TIME and 

Conde Nast Traveller. Though 

she loves Ho Chi Minh City, she 

also enjoys exploring Vietnam’s 

more far-fl ung destinations.

PHOTOGRAPHY: SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM 

the buzz 

Calendar Travel 

Appetite Lifestyle 

Adelaide, Australia 

Underrated by many, South Australia’s capital is a 

slow-burning gem. For more, turn to page 13. 

nov-dec tiger tales

Calendar 

As usual there’s a bunch of things to 

do and see across the Tiger network 

over the coming two months. We’ve 

rounded up some choice dates for 

your November-December diary 


8–11 

Nov 

Masala 

Magic 

South Asian arts 

and culture come to Sydney 

at the Parramasala Australian 

Festival of South Asian Arts. 

Highlights include a recital 

by Somik Datta, a master of 

the sarod, a stringed Indian 

instrument, and a staging of 

The Trouble with Asian Men, 

a production by London’s 

Tamasha Theatre Company. 

● Sydney 

The Icemen Cometh 

23 Nov The past year has been a fruitful one for alternative 

rock fans in Singapore. The latest act to play the Lion 

City, Sigur Rós, plough a cerebral furrow. The Icelandic band 

this year released a new album, Valtari. An epic four years in the 

making, it is considered one of the band’s best to date. 

● Singapore, www.sistic.com.sg 

Sky Lights 

The Philippines is hard to beat 

during the festive period. The 

nation takes Christmas and 

New Year as seriously as you’d 

expect of South-East Asia’s 

only predominantly Catholic 

country. This collective joie de 

vivre reaches its apex on the 

holiday island of Boracay when 

the legendary White Beach 

plays host to one of the most 

spectacular fi reworks displays 

you’re likely to see in Asia. 

● Boracay 

15–18 

Nov 

All in 

Good 

Taste 

One of Australia’s great food 

cities, Melbourne is always 

a fi ne place to chow down. 

That’s especially true at the 

annual Taste of Melbourne 

festival. This four-day 

celebration of all things 

epicurean moves outdoors to 

Albert Park for this year’s fi fth 

installment. And, assuming 

the weather cooperates, 

the alfresco setting should 

prove ideal for a programme 

featuring everything from 

cooking demonstrations 

by chefs from top city 

restaurants MoVida and The 

Point to tutorials about eating 

and living green. 

● Melbourne, www. 

tasteofmelbourne.com.au 

31 DEC 

BORACAY

PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IIMAGES, TASTE OF MELBOURNE, LILJA BIRGISDÓTTIR 

calendar the buzz 

Harbourfront Hedonism 

1 Dec Sydney’s summer season kicks off in banging style with 

the Harbourlife Festival – a one-day celebration of all 

things hedonistic in the company of some of the world’s top DJs. 

Among those taking their turn on the wheels of steel will be Todd 

Terje, Too Many DJs and Mark Farina. 

● Sydney, www.fuzzy.com.au 

Stars and Strings 

8 Dec An audience of thousands is expected for the 

Symphony in the City event at Perth’s Langley Park. 

Any gathering under the stars here is special but the music 

provided by the Western Australian Symphony Orchestra is sure 

to further enhance the atmosphere. 

● Perth, www.showmeperth.com.au 

9 Dec 

Turf 

at the Top 

Boasting one of the 

world’s most lucrative events – 

the Hong Kong Cup – and a host 

of other thrilling showdowns, 

the Hong Kong International 

Races deserves its place in the 

pantheon of great race meetings. 

Hosted by the Hong Kong Jockey 

Club and staged at the iconic Sha 

Tin Racecourse, the event attracts 

the world’s best jockeys, trainers and thoroughbreds. 

● Hong Kong, www.hkjc.com 

Arty Fare 

12 Dec 

Kerala’s fi rst international exhibition of contemporary 

art, the Kochi-Muziris Biennale, promises to be a 

culturally diverse affair. Indian and international artists will 

exhibit artworks across a variety of media including fi lm, painting, 

sculpture, new media, and performance and installation art. 

● Kochi, www.kochimuzirisbiennale.org 


9

10 

TOP 

Crime Fiction 

in Asia Pacifi c 

America may be the customary setting for noir, but Asia 

and Australia can do hard-boiled, too. Helen Clark tracks 

down the leading suspects 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 


The eponymous hero of Shane Maloney’s 

MURRAY WHELAN SERIES, set in Melbourne 

in the late 1980s, is a civil servant. Though 

seemingly hapless, he typically solves the 

mystery and gets the girl. 

Colin Cotterill set his JIMM JUREE SERIES in 

southern Thailand, where ace crime reporter 

Juree relocates with her mother. After a Kombi 

containing two corpses is dredged from a lake, 

she fi nds herself on the mystery-solving trail. 

Vikram Chandra’s SACRED GAMES has all 

you could want in a Mumbai-set mystery: 

Bollywood stars, gangsters, religious fanatics 

and a policeman hero, Sartaj Singh, who’s 

one of just a handful of Sikh offi cers on a 

predominantly Hindu force. 

PLAYING FOR THRILLS by “hooligan” author 

Wang Shuo takes a look beneath the surface 

of the shiny, happy new China. In the novel, a 

weary anti-hero looks back on a 10-year-old 

murder in a bid to piece it all together. 

While Singapore is low on illegal high jinks 

it does have some good crime fi ction. 

CRIME SCENE: SINGAPORE – THE BEST 

OF SINGAPORE CRIME FICTION compiles a 

number of short stories set in the city-state. 

OVERNIGHTER 

Penghu, 

Taiwan 

Once the domain of pirates, this idyllic island 

chain is more somnolent than swashbuckling 

these days, but Cain Nunns doesn’t mind 

I 

f island chains 

formerly ruled 

by pirates 

are cool, 

then Penghu could be 

considered the Jazz Age of 

Asian archipelagoes. Back 

in the day, a Chinese rebel 

navy and pirate force didn’t 

just hold sway over the 64 

islands here, they owned 

them for 200 years, fi nally 

relinquishing control as the 

19th century drew to a close. 

According to historians, 

the area was a no-go zone 

for all who didn’t want to be 

plundered, raped, hanged or 

set adrift in the middle of the 

South China Sea. It’s this legacy 

that established Penghu’s 

reputation as an obscure 

backwater and a place suitable 

for little more than serving as 

a pawn in the naval-base chess 

games of the great powers. But 

all that’s starting to change. 

Today’s Penghu is a beach 

lover’s paradise, replete 

with overlooked pink coral 

beaches, cobalt waters, marine 

sanctuaries, reasonable 

surf, better windsurfi ng and 

affordable accommodation. 

PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES

But be warned: Penghu is 

not a spot for the Earl Grey- 

infused vodka martini set. 

This is low-rise Asian tourism 

as it was in the 1970s, before 

Lonely Planet led the charge of 

the fi sherman pants-wearing 

European traveller. Before the 

big hotel brands snapped up 

the beachfront real estate. And, 

thankfully, before the locals 

either sized you up for a scam 

or looked you up and down with 

bristling indifference. 

WHAT TO DO 

What this oceanic stronghold 

of about 90,000 people, 

scattered over 20 inhabited 

islands, lacks in show-stopping 

attractions it makes up for in 

laidback-island vibe. One of 

the best ways to get a handle 

IF YOU LIKE THIS TRY... 

1CON DAO, VIETNAM 

Formerly a prison colony, Con Dao has shed its fearsome 

reputation to become one of Vietnam’s most idyllic 

destinations. Beach bums will love the deserted stretches of sand 

while nature lovers will appreciate the sizeable population of sea 

turtles, which lay their eggs here. 

on the destination is to rent a 

bike and investigate at your 

own pace. Pedal from the 

Rainbow Bridge in the main city 

of Magong along the seaside 

bicycle path, where you’ll be 

treated to eye-catching views 

across the water to Xiyu Island. 

The place is also geared for 

beach-crawl enthusiasts, with 

dozens of spectacular and often 

deserted stretches of sand. If 

that’s not your thing then head 

to the pier, where there are 

locals who are more than happy 

to take you out to the islands. 

WHERE TO DINE 

Eating is another simple 

pleasure and, fi ttingly, it pays 

to keep things prosaic. As 

you might expect, isolated 

archipelagoes in the middle of 

the South China Sea serve up 

a plethora of amazing seafood. 

Take your choice at the oyster 

and shrimp farms here, or better 

yet, catch your own at one of the 

squid restaurants. Alternatively, 

stock up on street food favourites 

like brown-sugar sponge cake, the 

weirdly named grass jelly and pink 

cactus sorbet, and spicy red-oil 

wontons. 

WHERE TO STAY 

Penghu’s reliance on tourism and 

the fact that hordes of mainland 

urbanites have opened up 

boutique hotels and B&Bs puts 

visitors in the welcome position 

of having plenty of inviting 

accommodation options. 

Mahalo Surf B&B on Shan Shui 

beach is the pick of the litter. 

Mahalo is a place where you can 

2PULAU UBIN, SINGAPORE 

travel the buzz 

FIND IT: 

● A fast boat operates 

from Chiayi on the 

Taiwanese mainland. 

The trip takes around 

50 minutes. 

● Street eats are 

available on Minquan, 

Minsheng, Sanduo 

and Linsen Roads in 

Magong. 

● Mahalo Surf B&B, tel: 

+886 (0)6 995 2893, 

www.mahalosurfi ng. 

com 

Okay, so there are no decent beaches but if you enjoy 

pedalling at your leisure on a beautiful tropical island, 

Pulau Ubin is a fi ne choice. Just a 10-minute ferry journey from 

Singapore, this time-warped hideaway is a great place to enjoy a 

more relaxed pace of life. 

learn to surf by day and, by 

night, dine on wood-fi red pizza 

and beer while drinking in the 

stunning ocean views from the 

privacy of your balcony. 


11

Welcome back, Tiger! 

Adelaide Airport, Australia’s most modern airport, 

welcomes back Tiger Airways with twice daily services to Melbourne. 

We’re also just 6km from Adelaide’s city centre, which means unlike other 

capital city airports, your taxi ride won’t cost more than the Tiger airfare! 

Australian Capital City Airport of the Year 2011

PHOTOGRAPHY: SOUTH AUSTRALIA TOURISM, NATIONAL WINE CENTRE 

LOVERS OF 

FINE FOOD 

Thanks to its astonishing 

range of cuisines, it’s easy 

to fi nd a meal in Adelaide. 

Home to a selection that runs 

the gamut from Argentinian 

to Vietnamese, the Gouger 

Street area is a great place 

to start. For a pit stop while 

perusing the gourmet choices 

at the 140-year-old Adelaide 

Central Market, check out the 

daily, seasonal selections at 

Zedz Café, the hearty Russian 

piroshki (stuffed buns) at 

Taldy-Kurgan next door or the 

bibimbap (mixed rice, meat and 

vegetables) at Sunmi’s Korean 

stall on the other side. If you’re 

after modern Australian cuisine 

and great wines, Press Food 

& Wine on nearby Waymouth 

Street offers that along with a 

buzzy ambience. Alternatively, 

take a 15-minute taxi ride to 

Windy Point Restaurant for fi ne 

dining with breathtaking views. 

● Adelaide Central Market, 

44-60 Gouger St 

● Press Food & Wine, 40 

Waymouth St, tel: +61 (0)8 

211 8048 

● Windy Point Restaurant, 

Belair Rd, Belair, tel: +61 (0)8 

278 8255 

FIRST-TIME TRAVELLER 

Adelaide 

South Australia’s capital is something of a slow-burn charmer. 

Amanda McInerney helps you get under the skin of the city 

WINE & SPIRITS 

CONNOISSEURS 

South Australia is the nation’s 

wine capital. There are over 

200 cellar doors on Adelaide’s 

doorstep, but you needn’t go 

farther than the National Wine 

Centre on the city’s fringe to 

experience the winemaking 

process from the vine up. If a 

cleansing ale is more your style, 

you’re sure to fi nd something 

to tickle your fancy among the 

35 beers on offer at the Belgian 

Beer Café. And for cocktails 

with a conscience there’s 

Distill, whose “health-biased” 

cocktails boast organic and 

ethically sourced ingredients. 

The new and very hip Udaberri 

caters for the after-work crowd 

with pintxos (skewered hors 

d’oeuvres) and Spanish vino. 

If it’s elegance you’re after, 

pop in to the historic home 

of The Apothecary to enjoy a 

glass or two amid the charming 

European-style surrounds. 

● Nat’l Wine Centre, Hackney 

Rd, tel: +61 (0)8 303 3355 

● Belgian Beer Café, 27-29 

Ebenezer Pl, tel: +61 (0)8 359 

3400 

● Distill, 286 Rundle St 

● Udaberri, Leigh St 

● The Apothecary, 118 

Hindley St, tel: +61 (0)8 212 

9099 

SHOPPING 

FANATICS 

Once you’ve exhausted the 

possibilities of the department 

stores and boutiques at 

Rundle Mall, keep walking 

east to Rundle Street. Here 

you’ll fi nd a range of fashion 

boutiques along with funky little 

stores like Bimbo, home to an 

eclectic range of “compulsive 

desirables”. If well-designed 

furniture and homewares, 

collectible pieces, artwork or 

unique gifts fl oat your boat, 

Danish Vintage Modern, Rock 

N Rustic and Inside Morocco 

are among the 130 retailers in 

the Magill Road precinct. Or, for 

fi nely crafted art objects, visit 

the glassblowers at Eamonn 

Vereker Glass in Norwood to 

take home something unique. 

If you’re in the mood to splash 

out, just fi ve minutes south 

of the city by tram are the 

high-end fashion and jewellery 

boutiques of King William Road. 

● Bimbo, 279 Rundle St 

● Danish Vintage Modern, 

148 Magill Rd, tel: +61 (0)8 

363 7086 

● Rock N Rustic, 187A Magill 

Rd, tel: +61 (0)8 363 3446 

● Inside Morocco, 149 Magill 

Rd, tel: +61 (0)8 132 1414 

● Eamonn Vereker Glass, 87 

Sydenham Rd, Norwood 


ATYPICAL 

TRAVELLERS 

Getting off the beaten track is 

a snap outside the city, and it’s 

surprisingly easy to do inside 

it, too. Get to know Adelaide’s 

history with a guided walking 

tour of historic West Terrace 

Cemetery. Tours, some built 

around a theme, are conducted 

on the fi rst Tuesday of each 

month, or anytime for groups 

of 10 or more. Popular options 

include Crime and Punishment, 

focusing on noted villains, 

victims and law offi cers; the 

Arts, spotlighting musicians, 

dancers and painters; and 

the Military, which includes 

the stories of four Victoria 

Cross winners from World 

War I who are interred there. 

For something more actionoriented, 

try rock climbing, 

abseiling or hiking – or simply 

marvel at the waterfalls – at 

Morialta Conservation Park, 

just 20 minutes from town. 

● West Terrace Cemetery 

Guided Tours, tel: +61 (0)8 

139 7407, www.aca.sa.gov.au 

● Morialta Conservation 

Park, www.southaustralia. 

com 


13

14 

the buzz travel 


HOTEL 

REPORT 

Historical Hipsters 

This pair of design-driven boutique properties in Colombo effortlessly blend 

the old and new, says Emma Boyle 

CASA COLOMBO PARADISE ROAD TINTAGEL 

Hidden down a back lane in Bambalapitiya, just south of 

the city centre. 

Retro interiors custom-designed by Casa’s owner, 

Lalin Jinasena, embellish a statuesque, 200-year-old 

Moorish mansion. 

It’s the views inside the hotel that win out here. Artwork 

and funky furnishings ensure lashings of eye candy. 

Unpretentious. Nothing is too much trouble for your 

ever-smiling personal domo (think butler/concierge), 

who is at your beck and call 24 hours a day. 

There are 12 suites, including the Royal Suite. Standard 

features include fl at-screen TVs, minibars and iPods 

loaded with Casa lounge tunes. 

HVN proffers zesty fusion dishes; go local and try 

the Sri Lankan kothu rotti (shredded roti mixed with 

spices, vegetables and meat). Alternatively, tuck into 

tapas at glass-encased, ultra-modern Zaza, a funky 

tea lounge-cum-bar. 

Double day beds and glass sun loungers surround the hotel’s 

pool. The Ariyanna Spa offers blissful in-suite massages. 

From S$314/A$242 

www.casacolombo.com 

This hedonist’s haven is Colombo’s king of cool: 

unashamedly romantic and with plenty of personalised 

service. Couples will adore it. 

THE LOCATION 

THE DESIGN 

THE VIEW 

THE VIBE 

THE ROOMS 

THE FOOD & 

DRINKS 

THE SPA & POOL 

THE DETAILS 

THE VERDICT 

Situated in the heart of the city’s upscale Cinnamon 

Gardens district. 

Majestically colonial on the outside, unashamedly 

contemporary inside. Featuring bold stripes, rich 

earthy hues and beautifully upholstered furnishings. 

The outlook from the rooms showcases the picturesque, 

creeper-cloaked walls and terracotta rooftops. 

Smart and sophisticated. Tintagel was once home to 

three of Sri Lanka’s former leaders (the Bandaranaikes) 

so it’s no stranger to opulence and exclusivity. 

There are 10 individually designed suites. Each comes with 

king-sized bed, TV and ensuite. Superior Suites feature 

their own lounge, a balcony and Bose iPod docks. 

Some of the best food in the city is served up here. Think 

international fusion cuisine (the black-pork curry is a 

must) and a divine festival of desserts. Bring your own 

spirits – the bar staff will use it to produce the tipple of 

your choice. 

Naked statues preside over a long courtyard lap pool. 

There’s a spa room and steam shower. 

From S$351/A$271 

www.paradiseroadhotels.com/tintagel 

A chichi retreat for couples and families seeking privacy 

in a central location. Colombo’s attractions, restaurants 

and shops are minutes away. 

PHOTOGRAPHY: DENNIS MUTHUTHANTHRI & ELLEN KAPLOWITZ (TINTAGEL)

16 

the buzz travel 

FOCUS 

am looking 

forward to winter 

“I now,” says Michael 

Leung as he takes 

a break from tending to his 

cucumbers to wipe beads of 

sweat from his face. “There’s a 

limit to the number of crops we 

can grow during the summer. 

We are particularly proud of our 

tomatoes and that’s the best 

time to grow them. 

“Plus,” he adds, pointing to 

his sodden brow, “the weather is 

much cooler.” 

Surrounded by lush greenery 

and bags of soil, his gloved 

hands covered in muck, Leung 

– a designer by trade – glows 

with the sense of fulfi lment 

common to millions of amateur 

farmers across the globe. HK 

Farm, the project he started in 

February with friends and fellow 

creatives Matthew Edmondson, 

an archivist, and artist Glenn 

Ellingsen, has proved productive 

so far. Beans, cucumbers, 

ginger, basil and chives have 

been grown over the summer 

while the winter season is 


Sprouting 

from the Rooftops 

The air is polluted and space is scarce, but the urban-farming scene in 

Hong Kong is gathering momentum. Duncan Forgan gets his hands dirty 

expected to yield everything 

from peas and parsley to 

beetroot and strawberries. 

This agricultural idyll is not 

in the open spaces of Hong 

Kong’s outlying New Territories, 

however, or even in a secluded 

city allotment. Leung’s plot of 

land, occupying a total area 

of around 1,200m 2 , sits six 

storeys up on the rooftop of a 

disused bubble-wrap factory in 

congested Kowloon. 

Leung is in the vanguard of 

a growing but loose-limbed 

movement whose aim is to 

communicate the value of 

rooftop farming and the benefi ts 

of locally produced food. 

While not exactly an alien 

concept, “slow food” is 

something of an anomaly in one 

of the world’s fastest-paced 

cities. Hong Kong’s work-hard, 

play-hard ethos, cheap and 

convenient dining options – not 

to mention its chronic lack of 

affordable property and terrible 

air quality – hardly make it a 

natural fi t for bucolic pursuits. 

It’s also one of the most densely 

Hong Kong’s climate 

nurtures many crops 

populated cities on earth, with 

roughly seven million residents 

inhabiting an area of just over a 

thousand square kilometres. 

Yet, despite the unpromising 

environs, the city’s urban 

farmers are setting their sights 

sky-high – literally. Projects are 

sprouting like verdant shoots 

atop the city’s skyscrapers. 

In fact, recent estimates put 

the number of urban farming 

projects in Hong Kong at around 

300. Most farmers favour 

organic methods. Their sense 

of unifi ed purpose, meanwhile, 

extends to sharing tips and 

maintaining a collective organic 

seed bank, which helps guard 

against the use of genetically 

modifi ed seeds. 

Their modus operandi varies 

– some rent out planter boxes 

to budding green-fi ngered

PHOTOGRAPHY: FELICIA T (OSBERT LAM) 

“MODERN LIFE IS ALL ABOUT 

RUSH, RUSH AND STRESS, IT 

SEEMS TO ME SOMETIMES. FARMING 

IS A GREAT WAY OF RECALIBRATING 

AND RECONNECTING WITH THE 

NATURAL WORLD” 

types, others take part in 

self-suffi cient, not-for-profi t 

collectives, and still others treat 

rooftop agriculture as personal 

pet projects. Nevertheless, they 

have a shared aim: to encourage 

the adoption of urban 

agriculture as a viable way to 

promote food sustainability and 

healthier lifestyles. 

Leung, who may be Hong 

Kong’s only designer/qualifi ed 

beekeeper (he was the city’s 

fi rst urban beekeeper and 

his honey-making project HK 

Honey runs in tandem with 

HK Farm), is passionate about 

the benefi ts of urban farming. 

“Every year, thousands of miles 

are covered to bring organic 

produce to Hong Kong. What’s 

the point in that kind of wastage 

when it can be grown right here 

on the rooftops of the city? 

Urban farms like the ones run 

by Michael Leung (bottom, left) 

and Osbert Lam (inset) are an 

increasing feature of the skyline 

“It’s all about doing things 

in a sustainable way. We get 

our soil from a local farm and 

then we fertilise it with food 

scraps from a couple of local 

restaurants. We consume 

the crops we grow ourselves 

and we collaborate with 

community groups, schools 

and organisations to give 

them insight into what can be 

done. It has nothing to do with 

commercial gain. We’re doing 

this because it’s good fun and a 

good thing to do.” 

Fellow Hong Kong city farmer 

Osbert Lam, whose Eco-Mama 

venture has been active since 

late 2010, echoes Leung’s 

sentiments. “Modern life is all 

about rush, rush and stress, 

it seems to me sometimes. 


Farming is a great way of 

recalibrating and reconnecting 

with the natural world.” 

To that end, Lam rents 

out planter boxes to a crosssection 

of Hong Kong society, 

everyone from young couples 

to elderly businessmen. Despite 

the increasing uptake, Hong 

Kong’s urban farming scene 

amounts to a few promising 

green shoots rather than 

a full-fl edged agricultural 

revolution. “Hong Kong is a very 

money-minded place,” Lam 

says. “And the government is 

not overly supportive. Farming 

and sustainable food is just 

not a priority. Our community 

is growing, however, and we’ll 

continue to spread a positive 

message to a wider audience.” 


17

18 

Java 

Jolt 

Once resolutely commercial, Jakarta’s café 

scene is being stirred by some hip interlopers. 

Rusmaila Lenggogeni sups from a cultural cup 

city that works 

hard and plays 

A hard, Jakarta is rife 

with malls, clubs 

and restaurants. In fact, new 

places to eat and drink seem 

to materialise overnight. What 

Indonesia’s capital has lacked 

for too long are cultural spaces 

where people can enjoy the 

arts in cosy and unpretentious 

surrounds. Thankfully, in recent 

months the city has seen the 

opening of a spate of cafés that 

have become hubs for the city’s 


creative set. 

“Jakartans are 

getting tired of 

the café scene 

here,” says Dita 

Anggraini, media 

relations offi cer 

for Komunitas Salihara (Salihara 

Community), a cultural centre 

in South Jakarta. “They’re on 

the lookout for fresh themes, 

such as cafés located in cultural 

complexes.” Komunitas Salihara 

is one such new-fangled 

venue. It was founded by the 

ON THE UP 

“JAKARTANS ARE 

GETTING TIRED 

OF THE CAFÉ 

SCENE HERE” 

Indonesian 

culturati and 

has established 

itself as a prime 

spot to enjoy 

interesting, 

alternative takes 

on the arts, literature and ideas. 

The in-house café, Kopi Tiam 

Oey-Salihara, is designed like a 

traditional Indonesian terrace 

with wooden chairs and bamboo 

blinds that blend in seamlessly 

with the modern and minimalist 

look of the complex. 

Coffee and cultural enrichment go 

hand in hand at stimulating venues 

such as The Reading Room 

“Salihara attracts a broad 

range of customers, from 

students to pensioners, because 

Jakartans have started to gain a 

better appreciation for the arts,” 

Anggraini says. 

This growing cultural 

awareness is just as apparent 

at That’s Life Coffee, the 

brainchild of illustrator, designer 

and coffee-lover Arris Aprillo, 

who opened the place in 2008. 

Driven by a desire to share his 

passion for Indonesian coffee 

while offering local artists a 

PHOTOGRAPHY MARTIN WESTLAKE

PHOTOGRAPHY MARTIN WESTLAKE 

While the majority 

of Jakarta’s coffee 

shops remain 

highly commercial, 

places such as 

The Reading Room 

promote a more 

intellectual ethos 

platform to showcase their 

work, Aprillo and a few friends 

created a travelling art show 

known as Kopling, short for Kopi 

Keliling or Travelling Coffee. 

The exhibition series, which 

spotlights photography and 

illustrations, is hosted every 

few months by various coffee 

houses. The Kopling events are 

intimate affairs, offering art 

enthusiasts the chance to sup 

coffee, mingle and meet local 

artists. This simple idea has 

proven a hit, with the turnout 

growing each time a new 

Kopling gathering is held. 

Another recent caffeinetinged 

addition to the cultural 

scene is The Reading Room, 

launched by a former bookstore 

owner, Richard Oh, who set 

out to create a place where 

people could meet, work and 

exchange ideas. “It had to have 

books, a screening room and 

a lounge,” he says. “Those 

were my starting points.” After 

months of conceptulisation 

and construction, The Reading 

FIND IT: 


● Komunitas Salihara The Salihara complex is known for 

its diverse performances, talks and seminars, which often 

tackle touchy subjects. The centre features a theatre, 

gallery, café, lounge and rooftop theatre that doubles as 

a bar. 16 Jln Salihara, Pasar Minggu, South Jakarta, tel: 

+62 (0)21 789 1202, http://salihara.org 

● That’s Life Coffee This small, welcoming café serves 

snacks and Indonesian coffee blends from across the 

country. There’s also live music, and art and charity 

events. 2/F, 24 Jln Gunawarman, South Jakarta, tel: +62 

(0)21 739 2942, http://thatslifecoffee.wordpress.com 

● The Reading Room A two-fl oor oasis tucked away in 

Kemang, The Reading Room has free Wi-Fi, a screening 

room that seats up to 20 people, a stage, lounge, bar and 

plenty of books. 57A-B Jln Kemang Timur, South Jakarta, 

http://twitter.com/#!/readingroomjkt 

Room opened to great acclaim. 

The space is akin to a chic library 

with a good collection of English 

books, comfy sofas, a café, 

screening room, lounge, bar 

and walls adorned with art from 

the Vivi Yip gallery. Though no 

art has been sold so far (prices 

start at INR10 million), Oh is 

undeterred. More painting and 

photo exhibitions are planned 

for the coming months. Like the 

people behind the city’s other 

new cafés, Oh hopes that his 

humble coffee shop will continue 

to be a place where inspiration 

and ideas come as a side order 

to the drinks. 


21

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ON THE MENU 

Tribal Gatherings 

Sarawak’s indigenous people comb the jungle for culinary ingredients. 

Tanya Procyshyn heads there for a feast that’s as wild as it is delicious 

ny chef will tell you 

that the secret to 

A a delicious meal is 

fresh ingredients. 

In Kuching, tribal cuisine takes 

this to the extreme through the 

use of jungle plants and produce 

so fresh it’s still wriggling. For 

the fi rst few rows, the Weekend 

Market in Kuching looks like your 

typical Malaysian wet market. 

But unique to the Kuching 

market are stalls operated by 

the Bidayuh, the tribal people 

of Malaysian Borneo’s Sarawak 

state, who travel from their 

villages to Kuching every 

weekend to sell goods harvested 

from the jungle. 

“This is midin,” says Madam 

Richa, who leads market tours 

and cooking classes at Bumbu 

Cooking School, as she gestures 

towards a bundle of curled green 

ferns. “It’s especially delicious 

stir-fried with chilli.” 

Sharing the same table are 

more jungle-fresh offerings, 

including fragrant curry 

leaves, bamboo shoots, wild 

mushrooms and bulbs of 

orange turmeric. It takes special 

knowledge to prepare jungle 

produce. Giant green beans 

called petai have an off-putting 

odour (they’re also known as 

stink beans), but make for a 

delicious salad when mixed with 

other potent ingredients like 

garlic, chilli and shrimp paste. 

Pink ginger fl owers seem too 

pretty to be eaten, but can be 

used to fl avour curries and the 

Kuching version of laksa. 

The meat section of the 

market is not for the fainthearted. 

“These will increase 

your vitality,” grins a grey-haired 

vendor as he plucks a squirming 

sago worm from a basket and 

pops it into his mouth. Raw sago 

worms have a creamy texture 

when consumed, but roasted 

they’re said to taste like bacon. 

As Malaysia continues to 

modernise, you might think 

the Weekend Market’s days 

are numbered, but Kuching 

restaurateur Vernon Kedit says 

there’s growing public interest 

in tribal cuisine. “The defi ning 

characteristic of tribal cuisine 

is that it’s organic and healthy,” 

says Kedit, owner of The Dyak 

restaurant. “The vegetables 

are grown without pesticides, 

the herbs are fresh from the 

Dine The Dyak specialises in 

tribal dishes like petai gulai 

bungai kechala ulam (ginger 

fl owers, petai beans, wild 

chives and anchovies) and 

ayam pansoh (chicken and 

herbs steamed in bamboo). 

http://thedyak.com.my 

appetite the buzz 

Everything from nutritious live grubs to 

exotic jungle fruit and vegetables can be 

found at Kuching’s Weekend Market 

FIND IT: 

jungle and the meat comes from 

longhouse community farms.” 

Thanks to the use of family 

recipes and the freshest 

ingredients, tribal cuisine is 

more than just exotic – it’s bold, 

sustainable and absolutely 

delicious. 

DIY Bumbu Market Tours & 

Cooking School guides help 

you shop at the Weekend 

Market for what’s needed to 

prepare delicious chicken 

curry and stir-fried midin. 

http://bumbucookingclass. 

weebly.com 


23

CHEFS: ON THE GRILL 

Back Alley Cat 

squina has 

brought 

E something new 

to Singapore. The 

restaurant is located on a quiet, 

little-known backstreet where 

quality dining spots are few and 

far between. Esquina boasts 

just 19 tables and its inspired 

modern tapas has people 

queuing up for hours. 

An inviting combination 

of contemporary fare, buzzy 

atmosphere and intimate 

surrounds has made Esquina 

one of the hottest seats in 

town. It’s worth the effort to 

fi nd. Diners can expect wildly 

imaginative creations such 

as bone marrow with snails, 

parsley and horseradish pesto. 

The Spanish-fl avoured space 

is the brainchild of famed chef 

Jason Atherton and hotelier 

Loh Lik Peng. The pair have just 

opened another two venues in 

the area – the British-infl uenced 

Keong Saik Snacks and The 

Library, a speakeasy style joint. 

Atherton might be the culinary 

prime mover but the man in 

situ at Esquina is executive chef 

Andrew Walsh. The Irishman 

has worked all over the globe, 

but he loves Esquina’s open 

kitchen and lack of pretension. 

“It provides an up-close- andpersonal 

experience with the 

chefs,” he says. “It’s an insight 

into a modern-day kitchen 

where you can interact with the 

cooking process.” 

Slow roast pork belly 

with chorizo, chickpeas 

and paprika 

Aimee Chan talks to the head chef of the tucked-away tapas bar that has taken 

Singapore’s dining scene by storm while reinvigorating a lost neighbourhood 

Q: WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR 

IN A RESTAURANT? 

The food is a major factor but it 

also has to be complemented 

by the design, atmosphere and 

music. 

Q: OF SINGAPORE’S TOP 

DINING SPOTS, WHICH ARE 

YOUR FAVOURITES? 

I enjoy the roasted pork and 

char siew rice at Foong Kee, 

the corner coffee shop near 

Esquina on Keong Saik Road. 

You can tell the recipe has been 

handed down for generations. 

Q: YOU MUST GET TIRED OF 

EATING OUT ALL THE TIME. 

WHAT’S YOUR MEAL OF 

CHOICE AT HOME? 


I like a great sandwich because 

it reminds me of Ireland. 

Q: WHAT WOULD BE YOUR 

LAST MEAL ON DEATH ROW? 

It would be a steak tartare with 

crispy croutons accompanied 

by a glass of red wine. 

Q: DO YOU HAVE A SECRET 

FAST FOOD ADDICTION? 

Yes. Pizza Hut. 

Q: WHAT’S THE WORST MEAL 

YOU’VE EVER HAD? 

I ate a gourmet burger in New 

York and there was a piece of 

silver chain in my burger. 

Q: WHICH FOODIE 

DESTINATION IS STILL ON 

YOUR BUCKET LIST? 

Japan for sushi and sashimi. 

Q: WHAT’S YOUR MUST-OWN 

COOKBOOK? 

Chef 

Jason Atherton 

Chef 

Andrew Walsh 

Gourmet Food for a Fiver by 

Jason Atherton. It contains 

many useful tips on how to eat 

brilliantly for peanuts. 

Esquina, 16 Jiak Chuan Rd, 

Singapore, tel: +65 6222 1616, 

www.esquina.com.sg 


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PHOTOGRAPHY: DEE ALLEN 

AT A GLANCE 

Half Pints 

Perth’s relaxed licensing laws have led 

to an explosion of small bars. Michelle 

Wranik gets the skinny on the bijou boom 

t’s a Friday night 

in Perth and a 

I huddle of twentysomethings 

are ducking down a derelict 

alleyway in Northbridge. 

Covered with graffi ti, the 

laneway seems abandoned but 

tucked within its bowels is one 

of the city’s hippest small bars. 

Named after a famously 

controversial poet and modelled 

after the Prohibition era, Ezra 

Pound serves mixed drinks in 

recycled peanut-butter-andjam 

jars and longneck beers 

tucked, wino-style, into brown 

paper bags. It’s grungy and 

friendly and the polar opposite 

of the city’s overcrowded 

pubs and noisy nightclubs. 

“THERE ARE NOW SO MANY PLACES TO 

CHOOSE FROM THAT YOU CAN GO BAR- 

HOPPING FOR THE EVENING AND NOT 

GET TO ALL OF THEM” 

Australia’s westernmost city 

is in the midst of a small-bar 

revolution. In the three years 

since the government relaxed 

liquor-licensing laws, the city has 

seen a growing number of small, 

independent bars cropping up in 

laneways, former pool halls and 

disused buildings. 

“The only way to describe 

the small bar scene in Perth 

is ‘vibrant and happening’,” 

says Ryan Mossny of local 

tour company Two Feet and a 

Heartbeat. Since launching in 

2010, the company’s walking 

tours exploring the CBD’s small 


At The Classroom, 

bartenders are referred 

to as “teachers” and they 

take the making of their 

highly creative drinks 

very seriously indeed 

bars have sold out just about 

every week. 

According to Mossny, it’s not 

only tourists who sign up. It’s 

also locals desperate to stay 

up to speed with the rapidly 

evolving scene. “There are now 

so many places to choose from 

that you can go bar-hopping for 

the evening and not get to all of 

them,” he says. 

The situation is drastically 

different from what it was just a 

few years back, when drinking 

options were “limited” at best, 

says David Gillman, co-owner of 

Helvetica, one of Perth’s 


27

Perth’s small bar boom is 

characterised by the use of quality 

ingredients, highly developed 

bartending skills and a sense of 

anarchic and artistic subversion 

pioneering small bars. Back 

then, he says, there were 

plenty of places to enjoy a pint, 

“but nowhere to explore the 

subtleties of a rye Manhattan”. 

These days, Perth drinkers 

have also evolved, developing 

a taste for classic cocktails, 

boutique wines, small-batch 

craft beers and rare spirits. 

At Helvetica, punters sample 

whiskies sourced from boutique 

suppliers around the world, 

from Islay malts to salvaged 

vintages from ghost distilleries. 

Many are used in Helvetica’s 

signature barrel-aged cocktails. 

“We have just bottled a batch 

of Rob Roy and a batch of 

Brooklyn,” Gillman says. “We 

also have a batch of Bobby 

Burns still in cask.” 

At Wolf Lane, another 

small bar in the CBD, patrons 

perch on mismatched, vintage 

furniture while surrounded 

by fairy tale-themed street 

art. The bar is famous for a 

12m mural depicting the Big 

Bad Wolf, but drinks are taken 

deadly seriously. Staffers are 

dab hands at mixing housemade 

tonics and cocktails, 

and can explain the difference 

between a Tempranillo and a 

Rioja to the uninitiated (for the 

record, Tempranillo is a type of 

grape, while Rioja is the wine 

made from it and other grape 

varieties). “That’s the nature 

of small bars,” says Wolf Lane 

marketing manager Carly 

Odgers. “They allow customers 

to try different things and to ask 

the bar team questions.” 

Of course, it’s not just about 

the drinks. Perth bar-goers 

like a bit of frivolity and quirk 

with their libations and one of 

North Perth’s newest venues 

delivers exactly that. In line with 

The Classroom’s school-days 

nostalgia theme, bartenders 

are referred to as “teachers”, 

bottles behind the bar are 

stored in lockers and school 

memorabilia lines the walls. 

Much of the furniture comes 

from nearby Somerville Primary 

School, while the cocktail 

menu, cleverly categorised 

into three subjects – history, 

art and science – is glued into 

Wolf Lane is 

distinguished by 

its eye-catching 

mural 

exercise books. Bartenders ... 

err... teachers even whip out a 

Bunsen burner to caramelise 

bananas for daiquiris. 

With applications being 

lodged for new venues each 

month, it seems nothing can 

stem the boom in small bars 

in Perth. To navigate this 

expanding network, download a 

copy of a specialised small-bar 

map (http://eatdrinkperth. 

FIND IT: 


showmeperth.com.au/ 

downloads) and arm yourself 

with a GPS phone, as many are 

hidden away on laneways. To 

Helvetica owner Gillman, the 

elusiveness of the bars is what 

makes them so alluring. “Most 

require a bit of discovering,” 

he says. “I think people like 

the sense that they’ve found 

something new when they walk 

through the door.” 

● EZRA POUND 189 William St, Northbridge, tel: +61 (0)415 

757666, http://epbar.com.au 

● TWO FEET AND A HEARTBEAT http://twofeet.com.au 

● HELVETICA 101 St Georges Tce, tel: +61 (0)8 321 4422, 

http://helveticabar.com 

● WOLF LANE 321 Murray St (rear), tel: +61 (0)8 9322 4671, 

http://wolfl ane.com.au 

● THE CLASSROOM 356 Charles St, North Perth, tel: +61 

(0)8 9444 7729, http://classroom.com.au 


29

THE ELEPHANT 

Q CAMP AT 

ANANTARA 

GOLDEN TRIANGLE IN 

NORTHERN THAILAND 

OFFERS A REFUGE FOR 

THE COUNTRY’S STREET 

ELEPHANTS. IT’S A REFUGE 

FROM WHAT KIND OF LIFE? 

It’s not a good life. They have 

to work with their mahouts 

(handlers) for up to 10 hours a 

night to make money, weaving 

in and out of traffi c. In a city, 

they’re surrounded by noise, 

chaos, slamming doors and 

engines night after night. It 

is not a nice life and it can be 

extremely stressful for them. 

WHAT EXACTLY 

Q DO ELEPHANTS 

REQUIRE TO LEAD 

A GOOD LIFE? 

Other elephants to talk to and 

an area of forest they can roam 

around in. It’s good when they 

can talk to one another and also 

escape from one another and 

eat a good, balanced diet. At 

the camp they can also be away 

from loud noises. 

THE CAMP PAYS 

Q 

MAHOUTS BY 

“RENTING” THEIR 

ELEPHANTS, BUT THEY 

EARN LESS THAN THEY 

WOULD ON THE STREET. 

HOW DO YOU PERSUADE 

THEM TO TAKE A PAY CUT? 

By offering them a steady 

income without the fear of 

being arrested (Bangkok has 

outlawed elephant street 

begging). Mahouts could make 

more money on the street but 

if they’re arrested they have to 

pay their way out of it, lose their 

elephant and go to jail. 

DO MAHOUTS 

Q ALWAYS LOVE 

THEIR ELEPHANTS? 

Some of them defi nitely do but 

some of them don’t. But there’s 

always a bond. Otherwise, it 

doesn’t work very well. We try to 

business the buzz 

John Roberts has forged a bond 

with the elephants he helps care 

for at Anantara’s elephant camp 

in Northern Thailand 

My Hometown: John Roberts 

The director of elephants for Anantara Resorts talks pachyderms with Michelle Wranik 

explain best practice to them. I 

might have to shout every once 

in a while if I catch one of them 

hitting their elephant. 

WHAT SORT OF 

Q TEMPERAMENT 

DOES IT TAKE TO 

WORK WITH ELEPHANTS? 

Ideally a nice, soft, loving 

temperament but that’s not 

always the case. It takes a 

lot of hard work and both 

mahouts and elephants have 

different personalities and 

characteristics. A sweetnatured 

elephant, for instance, 

is a lot easier to deal with than a 

headstrong, angry one. 


31

32 

the buzz business 

IT ISN’T THE 

Q CAMP’S POLICY 

TO RELEASE 

ELEPHANTS INTO THE WILD. 

CAN YOU EXPLAIN WHY 

THAT’S THE CASE? 

It would be nice to do that 

but not feasible. Nobody has 

enough access to the wild for 

Thailand’s 3,500 elephants. I 

think we still have to focus on 

fi nding work for them to do. 

WHAT’S YOUR 

Q 

GOAL FOR THE 

FOUNDATION AND 

ITS FUTURE WORK? 

My two goals would be for 

Thailand to have a sustainable 

number of captive elephants in 

25 years. The next is trying to 

convince the next generation 

of mahouts that they have a 

choice to do something else. 

INSIDER 

Hua Hin 

Your favourite 

places to eat? 

At Chao Lay Seafood (15 

Naresdamri Rd) the seafood is 

fresh off the boat. It’s well run 

and the food is excellent. For the 

best selection of good, cheap 

Thai food there’s no better place 

than the Hua Hin night markets 

(Petchkasem Rd near the train 

station from 6pm).Try pàt pong 

gà·rèe boo (crab curry), gûng 

tôrt (fried shrimp) and hoy tôrt 

(fried mussel omelette). The 

best Italian in town is at Baan 

Thalia (43/1 Petchkasem Rd, 

http://huahin.anantara.com). 


The annual King’s Cup 

Elephant Polo Tournament 

in Hua Hin is a top event on 

the town’s social calendar 

The town is familiar territory for John Roberts via its annual 

King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament. He shares his tips 

Your must-do 

activities? 

Aside from the King’s Cup 

Elephant Polo Tournament, 

the Wildlife Friends of Thailand 

Rescue Centre (http:// 

wfft.org) puts volunteers to 

work caring for sun bears, 

macaques and gibbons at its 

animal rescue centre outside 

Phetchaburi. Over the past 

few years, kitesurfi ng has 

become a popular sport in 

Hua Hin. There are now at 

least two kitesurfi ng schools 

here offering lessons and 

equipment for hire. 

Your top 

sightseeing 

spots? 

You can spend a whole day at 

Siam Winery (tel: +66 (0)81 701 

0444, http://siamwinery.com) 

learning about viticulture in a 

tropical climate on a vineyard 

tour, doing a wine tasting or 

eating at the picturesque Sala 

Wine Bar & Bistro. The Cicada 

Market (tel: +66 (0)80 650 

4334, www.cicadamarket.com) 

is held every Friday night. Artists 

from all around display their 

paintings, sculptures and wares. 

It’s also a great place to sit and 

have a beer. 

Your getaway 

recommendation? 

Pala U Waterfall, found on 

the south side of Kaeng 

Krachan National Park, some 

60km west of Hua Hin. The 

park is one of the largest in 

Thailand and sits right next 

to the border with Myanmar. 

It’s a beautiful spot to visit. 

You’ll pass through stunning 

countryside and hills on 

your drive there, which takes 

only about 90 minutes. 

The waterfall has 16 steps, 

making it one of the highest in 

Thailand.

uman hair has become such a 

precious commodity that some 

H people actually resort to theft 

in order to get hold of it, says 

iAremyhair Business Development Manager 

Peter Lim. 

Lim, whose company this year celebrates 

10 years of providing Singaporeans with 

hair replacement solutions, 

knows a thing or two about 

the value of hair. 

For the past decade, he 

and his Tanjong Pagar Road 

team have almost literally 

had Singapore covered, 

fi nding hair-loss solutions for everyone from 

movie directors and news reporters to local 

actor Yao Wen Long, who uses and endorses 

iAremyhair products. This pedigree has 

earned the business many accolades, the 

latest of which was a Circle of Excellence in 

Beauty & Wellness Award presented by Asia 

Business Journal this summer. 

iAremyhair Business 

Development Manager 

Peter Lim 

Ahead 

of the Game 

Veteran Singapore businessman Peter Lim shares the 

secrets to surviving and thriving in the Lion City 

WE HAVE A BUNCH 

OF CLIENTS WHO ARE 

LOYAL BECAUSE OF 

OUR CULTURE 

“Over the years we have become the 

leader in hair replacement,” Lim says. 

“With hair loss there are generally three 

solutions – Chinese herbs or Western pills; 

a transplant conducted by a doctor; or nonsurgical 

hair replacements. 

“To put it bluntly, we are wig sellers and 

use a method called bonding. At the end of 

the day it is nothing other 

than selling hair pieces 

and toupees that are very 

natural.” 

iAremyhair uses real 

human hair supplied by 

several US companies and 

sourced from India and China. Human hair 

is not cheap, costing anything from S$380 

to S$1,000 per kilogram, depending on its 

quality and weight. In New York last year, 

thieves stole S$190,000 worth of human 

hair from a beauty salon. 

At iAremyhair, the pieces are custommade 

to suit individual needs and are 

attached to the scalp using special 

adhesives for an effect that lasts around 

three to six weeks. The cost of an 

introductory hairpiece ranges from S$898 

to $1,008 for “premium hair”. Clients pay 

a monthly service charge of S$60 and can 

also opt for a monthly subscription that 

covers the entire service. 

“About three or four years ago, almost 

100% of our clients were male. Now we’re 

seeing a lot of female clients who are 

more adventurous,” says Lim, a former 

accountant who trained in Melbourne at 

Australia’s well-known Advanced Hair 

Studio. “We have a bunch of clients who 

are loyal because of our culture. This is the 

thing that gives us huge satisfaction and it’s 

something in which we take great pride.” 

iAremyhair is now on 

mobile as an iPhone app 

FIND US 

ADVERTORIAL 

iAremyhair has won the 

Small Medium Business 

Association award 

iAREMYHAIR, #02-01, 48 Tanjong 

Pagar Rd, Singapore, Tel. no.: +65 

6372 1221 www.aremyhair.com 

nov-dec tiger

SONY XBA-BT75 

BLUETOOTH 

HEADPHONES 

TEST DRIVE 

SC-HC57DB COMPACT 

STEREO SYSTEM 

A mini boom box for pumping 

out pure musical goodness, 

Panasonic’s delicious new 

ear candy is a speaker dock 

to rule them all. Boasting 

AirPlay wireless audio, the unit 

streams selections from your 

iPad, iPhone or iPod Touch 

music library via a wireless 

LAN network, internet radio or 

Spotify using the “vTuner for 

Panasonic” app. 

Nano-sized, bamboo-cone 

speakers create a crisp, 

clear sound with great bass, 

a balanced mid-range and 

a reasonably good top end, 

thanks largely to its seamless 

digital signal processing. 

From A$399/S$510 

www.panasonic.com.au 

So, what defi nes the ultimate 

headphones for audiophiles on 

the go? Wireless? Check. Easy 

set-up? Check. Magnifi cent 

sound? Check. That’s three 

out of three for Sony’s latest 

offering. The XBA-BT75 is 

a breeze to pair with your 

smartphone or mobile music 

player through the general 

settings and Bluetooth option. 

The magic is in the micro- 

sized balanced armature 

drivers, which leave room in the 

headphones for both the battery 

and IC chips, making for great 

sound. The carry case features 

a built-in rechargeable battery. 

As an added bonus, the wireless 

headset speakers contain a 

miniscule microphone so you 

can use it for hands-free calling 

on free-call apps. Every battery 

charge gives you around three to 

four hours of playback. 

From A$399/S$510 

www.sony.com.au 

Unwired 

for Sound 

lifestyle the buzz 

The wonderful world of wireless has opened up myriad possibilities 

for music-loving travellers, says Scott Podmore 

SPOTIFY 

This app is all about facilitating 

musical discoveries by offering 

access to a library of millions 

of songs. Switch on the radio 

player when you’re away from 

home and if something new 

piques your interest, just type 

in the song title or the name 

of the band or artist. Spotify 

automatically identifi es 

similar tunes, thus creating 

the soundtrack for a particular 

destination or leg of your trip. 

Spotify Premium, the 

subscription service, lets 

you take your music with 

you when you’re on the go. 

If you plan to spend time on 

a secluded beach or in any 

other out-of-the-way location 

where getting online is unlikely, 

you can assemble all of your 

favourite playlists and tunes 

offl ine so you can listen to 

them whenever and wherever 

you want. 

Free app with monthly 

subscriptions from A$12/S$15 

www.spotify.com 


35

Hobart 


ay

Salamanca Place Salamanca Market Mount Wellington Descent 

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIIA (STUART CROSSETT, 

HOBART CITY COUNCIL, GLENN GIBSON) 

WEEKENDER 

No longer the staid, old aunt over the Bass Strait, Tasmania’s capital has reinvented itself 

as a hip, retro-tinged hub with an emphasis on superb dining. Steven French digs in 


37

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA (WREST POINT), THE QUARRY SALAMANCA 

FRIDAY 

6PM Hobart doesn’t take long to get its 

hooks in you. In fact, you’ll likely be gawping 

at the scenery soon after bagging yourself 

a ride into town from the airport either by 

Hobart Airporter Shuttle Bus or by taxi. 

Driving in, the view from the Tasman Bridge 

is amazing. Straight ahead is the grand 

Government House, situated against the 

spectacular backdrop of Mt Wellington, 

while to the left are the River Derwent and 

the city centre. 

7.30PM If there’s one thing Hobart has in 

spades, it’s restaurants, cafés and pubs. 

There are loads to choose from but don’t 

expect to saunter in anywhere and fi nd a 

table. Popular places are packed on busy 

nights so phone ahead for reservations. 

MY PERFECT FRIDAY 

Point Revolving Restaurant 

Tasman Bridge 

As it’s your fi rst night in town, glam 

up and dine at the Point Revolving 

Restaurant atop Australia’s fi rst legal 

casino, Wrest Point. The Point offers aweinspiring 

views and is a great place to get 

the lay of the land. A 360º revolution of the 

restaurant takes an hour or so, making it a 

leisurely affair. Food is on the pricey side but 

the views alone are worth the expense. 

Rektango is the Friday night gig that I never miss. It’s a free music 

event held in the courtyard at the Salamanca Arts Centre. They have 

great live music, serve mulled wine and have blazing, wood-burning 

fi re pots on cold nights. There are also lots of exhibition openings 

on Friday nights at Salamanca and I must confess to crashing them 

on occasion. The tapas at Ethos are great if you’re looking for something light before 

kicking on. 

Emma Bugg, jeweller and Museum of Old and New Art guide 

CONTACT BOOK 

WEEKENDER 

The Quarry Salamanca 

9PM Kick off your night on the town with 

Hobart’s beautiful people at The Quarry 

Salamanca. The food is highly lauded so if 

you were stingy at the Point, top up here. 

The Ploughman’s share plate, a feast of 

balsamic pickled onions, ciabatta, leg ham, 

chicken brandy liver pâté and smoked 

cheddar, is just A$26/S$33. 

The Quarry Salamanca has lots of nooks 

and crannies and a wonderful courtyard in, 

as the name suggests, a quarry. The men’s 

loo is an experience in itself – the main wall 

is a one-way mirror and when you’re inside, 

you can see out but those on the outside 

can’t see in. 

11PM If you’re still wired from travelling 

and a late-night venue is required, just a 

few doors down from The Quarry is Syrup. 

Featuring two fl oors of music and dancing, 

Syrup is the last hot spot before Antarctica. 

In previous incarnations, the historic 

building where the club is located was home 

to a brothel and a pub. 

FRIDAY 

Hobart Airporter Shuttle Bus, 

www.airporterhobart.com.au 

Point Revolving Restaurant, 

Wrest Point, 410 Sandy Bay Rd, 

www.pointrevolving.com.au 

The Quarry Salamanca, tel: +61 

(0)3 6223 6552, www.thequarry. 

com.au 

Syrup, 39 Salamanca Pl, tel: +61 

(0)3 6224 8249, www.syrupclub. 

com.au 

EMMA BUGG’S FRIDAY 

Salamanca Arts Centre, 77 

Salamanca Place, tel: +61 (0)3 

6234 8414, www.salarts.org.au 


39

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA (NICK OSBOURNE, HOBART CITY COUNCIL), TOP GUN TASMANIA 

FLYING START 

Have you ever imagined yourself as 

a fi ghter pilot? You can get a sense 

of what it’s like during a visit to 

Hobart. Top Gun, based at Hobart 

International Airport, offers half-day 

adventures that include a full mission 

briefi ng covering weapons delivery 

and G-force preparation. You fl y in an 

ex-air force jet with military-trained 

pilots. Another airborne adventure 

worth parting with a few bucks for is 

a seaplane tour with Tasmanian Air 

Adventures. Tasmania’s wondrous 

landscapes have to be seen from 

this vantage point to be believed. 

www.topguntasmania.com.au; www. 

tasmanianairadventures.com.au 

SATURDAY 

8.30AM Ease into the day by heading back 

to Salamanca to the Tricycle Café. For 

something healthy after a heavy Friday night, 

try the “breakfast trifl e in a glass”. It’s made 

up of grains, stewed fruit and yoghurt mixed 

together in a tall glass – a perfect cleanser 

for a battered system. 

9AM Salamanca Market is world renowned 

and rightly so. On Saturday mornings, the 

market takes over the street for three blocks 

and there’s a stall for just about everything. 

Think jewellery, fashion, crafts, coffee and 

second-hand books, to name a few. 

11AM By now the coffee microbe must be 

gnawing again so stop by the bohemian-style 

Retro Café, a Hobart institution. The coffee 

here is the yardstick by which other cafés 

are judged. Most likely the wonderful Latin 

Victoria Dock 

American band, Arauco Libre, will be playing 

nearby. 

11.30AM When it comes to shopping, there’s 

more to Salamanca than just the market. 

You’ll fi nd lots of little alleyways and a street 

frontage crammed with cute galleries, craft 

shops and fashion boutiques. Déjà Vu is 

a jumbled second-hand bookshop that 

overfl ows into a lane. If you’re a bibliophile, 

there’s also Astrolabe Booksellers, 

purveyors of fi ne, old and rare books, as 

well as the excellent Hobart Bookshop in 

Salamanca Square. Popular galleries/craft 

shops include Handmark Gallery and the 

Tasmanian Shop and Gallery. Both outlets 

feature the work of some of the state’s most 

gifted artists and designers. 

1PM After Salamanca, cut across the grass 

in front of Parliament House and head along 

the waterfront en route to a seafood lunch. 

WEEKENDER 

Top Gun Tasmania 

Salamanca Market 

There’s a range of options. The fi rst eatery 

you’ll come across is Fish Frenzy, which has 

reasonable prices and fi rst-rate food. The 

smoky fi sh chowder here is much praised. 

If you wander a little farther you’ll come to 

Mures, an iconic Tasmanian family business. 

The family operates two fi shing boats that 

catch most of the seafood that’s served here. 

Mures is right next to Victoria Dock, the 

endpoint of the Sydney to Hobart Yacht 

Race. There are a handful of quaint punts 

selling freshly caught fi sh here. 


41

42 

WEEKENDER 

1.45PM After lunch, wander just a few blocks 

into the CBD. Head along Murray Street and 

turn right onto Liverpool Street. You’ll pass 

popular shops such as Routleys Menswear. 

On Bathurst Street is one of Hobart’s bestloved 

pubs, the New Sydney Hotel. It has 

live music from Wednesdays through to its 

Sunday afternoon blues-and-jazz sessions. 

Mures 


MY PERFECT SATURDAY 

My partner is a musician so we don’t have a lot of weekends at home 

but when we do, we hang out at our favourite eating and drinking 

spots. Our favourite Saturday lunch spot is the newly refurbished 

Brunswick Hotel. The vegetarian pasta is to die for, the décor is 

divine and there are plenty of local wine options. Following this, we 

stroll into North Hobart to Solicit for cheese, more wine and a coffee hit. It has such a 

laid-back vibe that we often stay well into the evening. Don’t be fooled into thinking that 

Hobart only happens on the waterfront. The inner city is taking off now. 

Wendy Kennedy, TV presenter and producer of travel DVD Must See Tasmania 

CONTACT BOOK 

SATURDAY 

Tricycle Café, 71 Salamanca Pl, tel: 

+61 (0)3 6223 7228 

Salamanca Market, Salamanca Pl, 

www.salamanca.com.au 

Retro Café, 31 Salamanca Pl, tel: +61 

(0)3 6223 3073 

Déjà Vu, Salamanca Arts Centre 

Alcoves, 77 Salamanca Pl, tel: +61 (0)3 

6223 4766 

Astrolabe Booksellers, 1/F, 81 

Salamanca Pl, tel: +61 (0)3 6223 8644, 

www.astrolabebooks.com.au 

Hobart Bookshop, 22 Salamanca 

Sq, tel: +61 (0)3 6223 1803, www. 

hobartbookshop.com.au 

Handmark Gallery, 77 Salamanca 

Pl, tel: +61 (0)3 6223 7895, www. 

handmarkgallery.com 

Tasmanian Shop and Gallery, 65 

3PM For a mid-afternoon sugar hit, make 

your way to North Hobart to visit the 

wonderful Sweet Envy. Alistair Wise, an 

award-winning former executive pastry chef 

for Gordon Ramsay in London and New York, 

has come home to Tasmania and his new 

venture is manna for lovers of sweet treats. 

6PM There’s a strip of cafés, restaurants 

and pubs in North Hobart where locals go 

to eat. A favourite is the Republic Bar and 

Café, where the food is exceptional. The 

Republic was formerly called the Royal Hotel 

(being that Australia is looking to sever ties 

with the British monarchy, the change was 

a no-brainer). Top picks include the fresh 

Tasmanian mussel pot. Meat lovers should 

try the Moroccan lamb shanks served with 

mashed potatoes. You can stay here for the 

evening but if the music is not to your liking, 

wander up the street to the Queen’s Head 

Café Bar, where you’ll usually fi nd jazz or 

reggae on offer. The food is good, too. 

Salamanca Pl, tel: +61 (0)3 6223 5022, 

www.tasmaniashopgallery.com.au 

Fish Frenzy, Elizabeth Street Pier, 

Sullivans Cove, tel: +61 (0)3 6231 2134, 

www.fi shfrenzy.com.au 

Mures, Victoria Dock, tel: +61 (0)3 

6231 2121, www.mures.com.au 

Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race, www. 

rolexsydneyhobart.com 

Routleys Menswear, 78 Murray St, 

tel: +61 (0)3 6224 2882, www.routleys. 

com.au 

New Sydney Hotel, 87 Bathurst 

St, tel: +61 (0)3 6234 4516, www. 

newsydneyhotel.com.au 

Sweet Envy, 341 Elizabeth St, tel: +61 

(0)3 6234 8805 

Republic Bar and Café, 299 Elizabeth 

St, tel: +61 (0)3 6234 6954, www. 

republicbar.com 

WHERE TO STAY 

* BUDGET: BRUNSWICK HOTEL 

For backpacker or budget 

accommodation, the Brunswick Hotel 

is the place to go. Built by convicts 

in 1827, the Brunswick has recently 

been refurbished and is right in the 

heart of downtown Hobart. The food 

is good and not too expensive. Rates 

start at A$65/S$82. 67 Liverpool 

St, tel: +61 (0)3 6234 4981, www. 

brunswickhotelhobart.com.au 

* MID-RANGE: LEISURE INN 

HOBART MACQUARIE 

This hotel is as central as it gets. The 

Leisure Inn was recently refurbished 

in a contemporary style and there’s 

an in-house restaurant. Rates vary 

but are generally around A$150/ 

S$188. You can sometimes score 

special rates of little more than 

A$100/S$126. 167 Macquarie St, tel: 

+61 (0)3 6220 7100 

* BLOW-OUT: ISLINGTON 

Small but luxurious, Islington is 

an award-winning boutique option. A 

key feature of the property is its twostorey 

conservatory. It’s the ideal 

setting for an intimate dinner for two, 

complete with views of an infi nity 

pool and Mount Wellington beyond. 

Rates range from A$350/S$440 to 

A$500/S$628 per night. 321 Davey 

St, tel: +61 (0)3 6220 2123, www. 

islingtonhotel.com 

Queen’s Head Café Bar, 400 Elizabeth 

St, tel: +61 (0)3 6234 4670, www. 

queensheadcafebar.com.au 

WENDY KENNEDY’S SATURDAY 

Brunswick Hotel, 67 Liverpool 

St, tel: +61 (0)3 6234 4981, www. 

brunswickhotelhobart.com.au 

Solicit, 333 Elizabeth St, tel: +61 (0)3 

6234 8113, www.solicit.net.au

n common with other Aussie 

destinations such as Sydney 

I 

and Cairns, life largely revolves 

around the waterfront in 

Hobart. Tasmania’s capital occupies a prime 

location on the estuary of the Derwent River, 

is the endpoint of the famous Sydney to 

Hobart Yacht Race and boasts a shoreline 

that’s the focal point for a thriving diningand-drinking 

scene. Put simply, it’s the 

place to be in Tasmania. And Wrest Point is 

one of its prime draws. 

A hub for dining, drinking, entertainment 

and accommodation, Wrest Point covers a 

huge variety of bases. Indeed, the property 

boasts some of the city’s top drawcards. 

It’s perfect for those looking for an amazing 

natural environment, exceptional service 

and great food and wine. When it comes to 

accommodation, the 4.5-star and fi ve-star 

rooms in the iconic Wrest Point Tower are 

as sumptuous as you could hope for. On the 

food front, dining options such as the Point 

Revolving Restaurant and the aptly named 

Pier One – a gorgeous waterfront venue 

specialising in the very best of Tasmania’s 

ample seafood bounty – are up there with 

the best in town. 

Wrest 

Assured 

This waterfront icon has evolved into Tasmania’s 

fi nest integrated property and is a much-loved part 

of the Hobart landscape 

One of the most appealing aspects of 

Wrest Point is that it caters for a variety of 

tastes and budgets. If your budget doesn’t 

stretch to luxe then the property also 

has rooms in the four-star and 3.5-star 

categories. All rooms feature Tasmanian 

timber furnishings and artwork. What’s 

more, the property offers a wide range of 

accommodation packages so getting a good 

deal is generally a cinch. Other noteworthy 

amenities include café-style dining, 

absolute waterfront dining and family- and 

group-friendly buffets. 

The on-site entertainment is equally 

varied. As you might expect from Australia’s 

fi rst-ever casino, gaming is a central part of 

the fun here. However, there is also a tennis 

court, a spa and sauna, an indoor pool and a 

miniature golf course. Beyond that, a host of 

international acts in a wide range of genres 

have thrilled crowds in the property’s two 

performance venues, The Entertainment 

Centre and The Showroom. 

SPECIAL DEAL 

ADVERTORIAL 

To celebrate the resumption of Tiger 

fl ights to Hobart, Wrest Point has 

launched a special package. 

* The “Tiger’s Back in Tassie” 

deal entitles guests in the 

Wrest Point Tower to two free 

breakfasts (rooms from A$134/ 

S$168 and upwards). To take 

advantage of the deal, just mention 

the “Tiger’s Back in Tassie” deal when 

you book your accommodation. 

* Wrest Point is offering Tiger 

customers an additional bonus. 

Show your Tiger boarding pass at The 

Loft or Pier One from November 

through January and receive a 

complimentary Cascade Draught 

beer or glass of house red or white 

wine with any main course ordered. 

Terms & Conditions: Subject to 

availability. On sale from 1 Nov 2012 to 

31 Dec 2013 for stays between 1 Nov 

2012 and 31 Jan 2013. Offer is for two 

complimentary breakfasts per total stay 

and is not valid for consecutive bookings. 

nov-dec tiger tales

44 

WEEKENDER 

SUNDAY 

8AM Kick off with breakfast at the Atrium 

on Hunter Street. Part of the old Henry 

Jones IXL Jam Factory, the Atrium has 

been niftily converted into shops and cafés. 

The integrity of the old factory has been 

retained, with most of the stonework, huge 

beams and some of the machinery still in 

place. There are two cafés to choose from – 

Jam Packed and The Timeless Way. Jam 

Packed does a good eggs benedict and the 

coffee is okay, too. 

The other café, Timeless Way, serves its 

coffee with the hot water and milk already 

in the cup and with a side of concentrated 

coffee in a small jug. It’s up to you how much 

to tip in, so you choose the strength. There 

Mount Wellington Descent 


Hobart Harbour 

are some upmarket shops boasting quality 

menswear in the Atrium along with a leading 

indigenous art gallery, fi ne furniture and 

jewellery, but most don’t tend to open until 

around 10am. 

9.30AM Yep, you’re going to ride a bike down 

a mountain. The Mount Wellington Descent 

is outstanding. Why outstanding? Mainly 

because it doesn’t require a lot of pedalling 

– just a fair degree of nerve. This adventure 

departs from Brooke Street Pier, not far from 

where you’ve just had breakfast. A minibus 

takes you to the summit of Mount Wellington, 

where the 360º view is fantastic. The guide 

then fi xes you up with a bicycle, helmet and 

safety vest. Next he provides some advice 

and gives you a practice run before pushing 

you off down the mountain. If you’re super 

adventurous, you can take an off-road 

turn for some twists and ups and downs 

before rejoining the group near the Cascade 

Brewery. The trip takes two-and-a-half hours 

so you should be back at the waterfront in 

time for lunch. 

NOON You’ll surely need something to eat 

now that you’ve overdosed on fresh air. 

Salamanca is nearby so make for Ciuccio, 

an Italian restaurant that really knows how 

to make pizza. Also, give in to the lure of its 

MY PERFECT SUNDAY 

A good Sunday 

breakfast spot that 

we go to is Rain 

Check Lounge – just 

across the road from 

our shop. It has a 

good atmosphere 

and is great for breakfast. I also like 

to visit the Museum of Old and New 

Art (MONA) on Sundays. Then I like 

to hang out with my family in the park. 

Sunday is a pretty chilled-out day. I’ll 

eat from just about any shop that’s 

open. I’m not too fussy. I believe that 

everywhere has something good, 

you just have to look for it. We are so 

lucky here in Hobart. You don’t get 

the density of great restaurants and 

outstanding produce anywhere else in 

Australia and possibly beyond. 

Alistair Wise, award-winning former 

executive pastry chef for Gordon 

Ramsay in London and New York, 

who now runs Sweet Envy cake shop 

in North Hobart 

FOR THE KIDS 

* Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary 

is the place to go to see 

Tasmanian native animals. It’s not a 

zoo but a sanctuary that affords 

visitors an up-close experience with 

wildlife. The sanctuary has bred 

Tasmanian devils for more than 

20 years and some have been 

hand-reared. Entry is A$22/S$28 for 

adults or A$57/S$72 per family. 

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA (GLENN GIBSON), THE HENRY JONES

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PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM TASMANIA (MATTHEW NEWTON) 

WHERE TO SHOP 

* Every Sunday morning, a 

downtown car park is made 

over as a farmers’ market. It’s the 

ideal place to sample seasonal fruit 

and vegetables, speciality beverages, 

bread, cheese and more. You can also 

grab a decent coffee and buy a plant. 

Every Sunday from 9am to 1pm at 

Melville Street Outdoor Car Park. 

www.tasfarmgate.com.au 

* Resource Collectable is a 

weird and wonderful store that 

is a cross between a second-hand 

shop and a social-history museum. 

Open Monday to Saturday from 10am 

to 5pm. 117 Elizabeth St, tel: +61 (0)3 

6231 4838 

* Socrates is a place where 

children grow into adults and 

adults learn to be children. It’s not 

really a toy store, though it’s chock 

full of toys and games. This is the 

original location in a chain of 

Socrates stores that now covers 

much of Australia. 10 Salamanca Sq, 

Salamanca, tel: +61 (0)3 6223 7700, 

www.socrates.com.au 

CONTACT BOOK 

SUNDAY 

Atrium, 25 Hunter St, www. 

thehenryjones.com 

Jam Packed, 27 Hunter St, tel: 

+61 (0)3 6231 3454 

The Timeless Way, 33 Hunter St, 

tel: +61 (0)3 6234 7371 

Mount Wellington Descent, 

Brooke Street Pier, Franklin Wharf, 

www.mtwellingtondescent.com.au 

Ciuccio, Shop 9, Salamanca Sq, 

tel: +61 (0)3 6224 5690, www. 

ciuccio.com.au 

Hobart Paddle, Marieville 

Esplanade, www.hobartadventures. 

com.au 

Me Wah Restaurant, 16 Magnet 

Ct, Sandy Bay, tel: +61 (0)3 6223 

3688, www.mewah.com.au 

ALISTAIR WISE’S SUNDAY 

Rain Check Lounge, 392-394 

Elizabeth St, www.raincheck. 

northhobart.com 

MONA, 655 Main Rd, Berridale, 

tel: +61 (0)3 6277 9900, www. 

mona.net.au 

tiramisu, which is suitably delectable. Special 

mention goes to the service here, which is 

super friendly. 

2PM Your next adventure is a tour of 

the Hobart waterfront – on the water. 

Hobart Paddle is a two-hour sea kayaking 

experience around Hobart Harbour, which 

may start at 3pm or 4pm depending on 

the time of year. Your departure point is 

Marieville Esplanade, Sandy Bay, where 

a guide leads you between tall ships and 

fi shing boats. Paddling will very likely leave 

you ravenous. Fortunately, freshly made fi sh 

and chips can be lowered straight into your 

kayak from a fi sh punt. 

WEEKENDER 

Hobart Paddle 

6PM Head to Me Wah Restaurant in Sandy 

Bay, not far from where you fi nish your 

paddle, for an unforgettable dinner. This 

award-winning venue is one of Australia’s 

fi nest Chinese restaurants. The staff 

is super attentive and the wine list is 

phenomenal. There’s an excellent tasting 

menu which lets you sample just about 

everything. It’s a superb way to fi nish your 

Tasmanian voyage of discovery. 

Tiger Airways fl ies regularly to 

Hobart from Melbourne. Book your 

fl ights at www.tigerairways.com 


47

48 


Sinn’s City 

Once one of the most creative places in South-East Asia, Phnom 

Penh is buzzing again. Charlie Lancaster hears how a music legend 

and a movie-making monarch are inspiring a new generation

PHOTOGRAPHY: SAMJAMPHOTO 

PHNOM PENH 


49

50 

The walls of legendary Khmer 

actress Dy Saveth’s (right) home 

feature a host of mementoes 

from her peak years as a star 


t’s sundown on a Friday at 

Sisowath Quay in Phnom Penh. 

I Tourists, couples and groups 

of friends make the most of 

the day’s last rays by strolling along next 

to the mighty Tonlé Sap River. On the other 

side of the busy road lining the waterway, 

a growing throng fl ocks to the area’s many 

bars, restaurants and cafés. It’s a vivid image 

of bustling, modern-day Cambodia. Yet 

indications of an earlier golden age can be 

heard blaring from a radio inside one of the 

brightly coloured tuk-tuks patrolling nearby. 

The music produced by an organ, rhythm 

guitar and drums is reminiscent of the songs 

of ’60s legends like The Rolling Stones and 

The Beatles. Yet the keening and plaintive 

sound of the singer’s voice is 100% Khmer. 

“He’s the greatest Cambodian singer who 

ever lived,” says legendary actress Dy Saveth 

of her former duet partner Sinn Sisamouth, 

the man dubbed the “King of Khmer Music”. 

“He is Cambodia’s voice.” 

Sisamouth’s dulcet tones can still be 

heard in cafés, markets and, in this case, 

from a slightly decrepit auto rickshaw. 

The singer’s amazing voice and eclectic 

output – he dabbled in everything from 

torch songs to psychedelia – was the central 

plank in the evolution of modern Khmer 

popular music. It was also a clarion call to the 

generation of musicians and movie-makers 

who made Phnom Penh one of the most 

creatively vibrant cities in South-East Asia 

in the decades before Cambodia was nearly 

destroyed by genocide and civil war.

PHOTOGRAPHY: SAMJAMPHOTO 

It’s no coincidence that Sisamouth’s rise 

to prominence came during the 1960s, a 

time of intense creativity in the rock world. 

Despite its distance from cultural hot spots 

like New York, San Francisco and London, 

Cambodia wasn’t immune to the ripples 

being created by the Stones, the Fab Four 

and other leading lights of arguably rock’s 

most vital age. Meanwhile, the war raging 

next door in Vietnam meant that, thanks to 

American forces radio, tuned-in locals were 

exposed for the fi rst time to the likes of Ike 

and Tina Turner, Jimi Hendrix, The Doors and 

Creedence Clearwater Revival, whose songs 

promptly turned up on playlists at Phnom 

Penh’s clubs, pubs and other music venues. 

“Music was very experimental in the way 

that it was created and produced here in 

Cambodia. Countless singles were being 

recorded and released,” says Srey Thy, lead 

singer of Khmer psychedelic rock band 

The Cambodian Space Project, modernday 

keepers of Sisamouth’s fl ame. As it 

did elsewhere across the globe, the rock 

revolution quickly swept across Phnom 

Penh, with local bands creating their own 

distinctive, garage rock-infl uenced sounds. 

“Sinn Sisamouth pushed the boundaries 

of music in this country and, as a result, 

Cambodia became known for its amazing 

“MUSIC WAS VERY EXPERIMENTAL IN THE WAY THAT IT WAS 

CREATED AND PRODUCED HERE IN CAMBODIA. COUNTLESS 

SINGLES WERE BEING RECORDED AND RELEASED” 

PHNOM PENH 

Srey Thy (left), lead singer of The 

Cambodian Space Project, is one 

of the keepers of the Khmer rockmusic 

fl ame lit by Sinn Sisamouth 


51

52 

PHNOM PENH 

music scene,” says 63-year-old Teth, who 

recalls seeing the singer drive through 

Phnom Penh in a red convertible. “People 

watched fi lms just because he sang in them.” 

During what’s referred to as the golden 

age here, music and fi lm had a symbiotic 

relationship, with singers such as Sinn belting 

out one or two hit songs in just about every 

fi lm. In 1966, he appeared in Prince Norodom 

Sihanouk’s classic Apsara along with pintsized 

singer Siengdy. At Phnom Penh’s Java 

Arts Café & Gallery, Siengdy, one of his many 

female muses, recalls the Sinn effect from 

the vantage point of nearly 46 years. 

“Pairing with him on stage would 

practically guarantee an automatic pass to 

stardom,” says the 69-year-old. This was true 

not only for Siengdy and other much-loved 

collaborators such as Pan Ron, but especially 

for Ros Sereysothea, who become a national 

treasure for her interpretations of Sinnpenned 

material, covers of Western hits and 

for the lucid storytelling in her own work. 

While Sinn, Sereysothea and others 

were supplying the soundtrack to 

Cambodia’s golden age, a host of fi lmmakers 

– including the country’s then-ruler, 

Sihanouk – were providing the visual 

stimulus. Formerly the preserve of French 

colonialists, cinema in Cambodia fi nally 

broke free of its foreign shackles in 1960 

when Cambodian directors, armed with 

little or no technical training and limited 

equipment, took Cambodian fi lmmaking 

into their own hands. 

Preferring the garish feel of Bollywood to 

the more refi ned Hollywood style, directors 

fused Indian fi lm styles with Khmer folklore, 

producing fairy tales that centred on morality 

and delved into the fantastic. Ghosts and 

giants would battle princes as audiences 

went on adventure after adventure across 

Phnom Penh’s 30 cinemas. 

Under the patronage of Sihanouk, fi lm 

fl ourished in the kingdom for the next 

NEW MUSICAL EXPRESS 

* THE CAMBODIAN SPACE PROJECT 

Since 2009, this psychedelic rock outfi t has been 

shaking up the scene with its classic Khmer and Western 

covers, and original songs. Diminutive chanteuse Srey Thy 

and lead guitarist Julien Poulsen keep the spirit of Khmer 

rock very much alive. www.thecambodianspaceproject.com 


Now 69, singer Siengdy vividly recalls 

the golden age of Khmer creativity. She 

credits her stardom to her association 

with Sinn Sisamouth. He wrote several 

songs for her and other female singers 

such as Pan Ron and Ros Sereysothea 

* KLAPYAHANDZ 

Art collective KlapYaHandz is at the crest of a 

wave of creativity that’s taking music in new directions 

here. This group of young singers, rappers, artists 

and producers lean on the principles of the music of 

yesteryear to produce an independent sound for today. 

PHOTOGRAPHY: SAMJAMPHOTO

54 

PHNOM PENH 

15 years, during which around 300 fi lms 

were produced, packing movie houses 

nightly and marking an era of quality in 

Cambodian cinematic history that has yet to 

be surpassed. “Music and fi lm in this era was 

pure,” says Sophorn, a research assistant at 

Bophana, an audio-visual resource centre. 

“People sang and acted for their country, not 

for fame or money.” 

Of the two-dozen stars that 

dominated the silver screen at the 

time, actress Tith Vichara Dany and 

actor Kong Sam Oeun emerged as 

the superstars, performing in 60 

fi lms together and a whopping 100 

individually. In 1972, Kong starred 

in the era’s biggest blockbuster: 

Orn Euy Srey Orn (Khmers After 

Angkor), which packed cinemas nightly for 

the year it ran. 

It would prove to be a great year for 

Cambodian cinema, one that would see Pous 

Keng Kang (The Snake Man, Part 1), directed 

by Tea Lim Koun, pick up six awards at the 

19th Asian Film Festival in Singapore. Based 

on an ancient Khmer folk legend, this horror 

fi lm tells the tale of a woman who sleeps with 

a snake to punish her abusive husband. 

Snakes with more lethal venom were 


In his work at Bophana, Sophorn helps to 

restore and preserve Cambodia’s audiovisual 

heritage. “Music and fi lm in the era 

were so pure,” he says of the golden age of 

creativity in the 1960s and ’70s 

on the horizon, however. When the Khmer 

Rouge rolled into Phnom Penh in 1975, 

resetting the calendar at “year zero” for 

Cambodia as part of their ultra-Maoist 

revolution, they outlawed music, held 

Sihanouk prisoner in his own palace and 

launched an all-out assault on culture. The 

golden age came to a brutal end. 

By the time the Vietnamese invaded in 

“IT’S A BITTERSWEET LESSON, BUT THE 

KHMER ROUGE TAUGHT US THAT YOU 

CAN KILL THE SINGER, BUT YOU CAN’T 

KILL THE SONG” 

1979, all but around 30 of the 300 fi lms 

from the 15-year golden era had been lost 

or destroyed. In four years, the Khmer 

Rouge very nearly succeeded in its aim of 

returning the country to a near-infantile 

state. Yet thanks in part to director Tea, who 

fl ed Cambodia on one of the last airlifts out 

of Phnom Penh while clutching six of his 11 

fi lms, tantalising snippets of the era survive. 

While the fi lm industry in Cambodia has 

yet to see a revival, an emerging crop of 

PENH PICKS 

* To gain insight into 

Cambodia’s recent history, 

head to the Bophana Audio-Visual 

Research Centre, which has 

painstakingly gathered images 

and interviews in its efforts to 

preserve the nation’s audio-visual 

heritage. An impressive archive of 

fi lm shows Cambodia in its regal, 

1960’s glory and the Khmer Rouge 

propaganda machine in action. 

The centre regularly hosts movie 

nights and exhibitions. 64, Street 

200, tel: +855 (0)23 992174, 

www.bophana.org 

* The Meta House is a 

must-visit cultural and art 

destination. It regularly hosts fi lm 

screenings and exhibitions 

showcasing Cambodian artists 

and supports the development of 

contemporary art in the country. 

37 Sothearos Blvd, tel: +855 (0)23 

224140, www.meta-house.com 

young directors holds some promise. The 

music industry, on the other hand, has fared 

much better. “It’s a bittersweet lesson, but 

the Khmer Rouge taught us that you can 

kill the singer, but you can’t kill the song,” 

says Sophorn of the Bophana centre. “Most 

songs produced in Cambodia nowadays are 

remixes of the golden classics.” 

Cambodians returning from overseas 

are trying to end this dependency 

on covers and remakes, and the 

momentum is gaining pace. As the 

young generation fi nds a voice, the 

city’s venues resound to mellow 

acoustic rock, hip-hop and full-on 

metal. “What’s about to happen is 

big,” says Sok “Cream” Visal of Khmer 

hip-hop collective KlapYaHandz. “It’s 

the beginning of something like the Golden 

Age – but times 10. There’s something about 

Cambodian people and creativity. It’s on the 

carvings of Angkor Wat. You can see it in our 

culture and folklore. It’s in our dances. It’s in 

our blood.” 

Tiger Airways fl ies daily to Phnom 

Penh from Singapore. Book your 

fl ights at www.tigerairways.com 

PHOTOGRAPHY: SAMJAMPHOTO

56 


PHOTOGRAPHY: NICK WALTON

Sweet 

& Sour 

Source 

GUANGZHOU 

Cantonese food is the fi rst experience of Chinese 

cuisine for many Westerners. Nick Walton heads to 

Guangzhou, the capital of the region formerly known 

as Canton, for some culinary inspiration 


57

PHOTOGRAPHY: NICK WALTON 

The busy pedestrian street 

of Shangxia Jiu, in the west 

of Guangzhou, is not for 

the faint-hearted. That’s 

especially true on weekends, 

when hordes of young people fl ock here 

to wander and shop. Located in Xiguan, 

Guangzhou’s historic old town, Shangxia 

Jiu blends yesteryear with modernity. 

Sportswear outlets, fast-food restaurants 

and boutiques selling skinny jeans can 

be found amid the iconic Sino-Western, 

arcade-style shophouses here. 

For foodies looking to learn the origins of 

Cantonese cuisine, Shangxia Jiu is ground 

zero. Many of the unique culinary traditions 

of Canton, the sprawling southern province 

now called Guangdong, were forged here. 

The household names of Cantonese cooking 

are still produced in the bakeries, factories 

and kitchens from which they originated, 

while the aromas of authentic home cooking 

continue to waft their way along the area’s 

myriad laneways. 

The pedestrian street of Shangxia Jiu is 

packed on weekends. However, tendrils 

leading off the main thoroughfare hide a 

host of traditional food outlets 

As afternoon begins fading to evening, my 

wife Maggie – a native Cantonese speaker 

from Malaysia who grew up in a family of 

chefs – leads me down one particularly 

narrow alley teeming with people and steamshrouded 

food stalls. The sound of TVs 

and the voices of gossiping grandmothers 

compete with the shrill tones of Cantonese 

opera, which blares from the apartments 

overhead. The scene is bathed in the glow of 

diffuse sunlight, buzzing neon and the naked 

bulbs of living rooms open to the street. 

GUANGZHOU 

Despite the presence in Guangzhou of 

a growing number of Westerners, I stand 

out like the last boiled egg in a basket. I 

follow Maggie closely as she peers into 

pots and pans bubbling away on portable 

gas burners, scans hand-written menus 

at hole-in-the-wall eateries and quizzes 

wizened cooks perched on wooden stools. 

We fi nally settle on a spot that’s little more 

than a scattering of plastic chairs outside 

someone’s kitchen door. “Exactly as it 

should be,” Maggie tells me. 


59


Modern Guangzhou is a place 

of towering steel, glass and 

concrete edifi ces. The skyline 

is dotted with spectacular 

buildings such as the city’s 

opera house (top) designed by 

famed architect Zaha Hadid 

GUANGZHOU 

The back alleys of Shangxia Jiu are a far 

cry from modern Guangzhou. Just a short 

taxi ride from the silk shops, dried seafood 

stands and weathered tea storehouses of 

heritage-rich Xiguan, signs of the rapid-fi re 

development of one of China’s fastest 

growing cities can be seen. Skyscrapers, 

fi ve-star hotels and luxury apartment blocks 

jostle for space with the factories that made 

Guangzhou its fortune as a trading hub. 

New additions to the cityscape include 

the eye-catching Guangzhou Television 

Tower, a cutting-edge museum and an aweinspiring 

opera house designed by famed 

architect Zaha Hadid. A new city library 

will fi nish off a spectacular and ambitious 

development called New Pearl River City, 

which reaches from Guangzhou East Station 

all the way to the famous river. 

Perhaps it’s all that ceaseless trading 

over the centuries that has given the 

Cantonese such an appetite and made 

Guangzhou such a foodie hub. With more 

restaurants per capita than almost any 

other city in China, Guangzhou is home to 

the world’s most exported, appreciated 

and recognised Chinese culinary offerings. 

If you grew up outside of China, there’s a 

fair chance your fi rst few encounters with 

the cuisine involved crispy wontons (fried 

dumplings), egg foo yung (Cantonese 

omelette) and sweet and sour pork. But 

these staples are the tip of an iceberg that 

started to form centuries ago here in the 

home kitchens of Xiguan. 

TOWERING SKYSCRAPERS, FIVE-STAR HOTELS 

AND LUXURY APARTMENT BLOCKS JOSTLE 

FOR SPACE WITH THE FACTORIES THAT MADE 

GUANGZHOU ITS FORTUNE AS A TRADING HUB 


61

Peace, Serenity, 

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These are the words that come to 

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elegance, natural surroundings and 

genuine friendly service. 

Be it for a honeymoon, a wedding ceremony, a 

diving experience, a break from it all or even for 

a business meeting in Krabi or in Thailand then 

Pimalai, nestled in a lush tropical forest, is the 

Andaman luxury destination to set your sights on. 

This exclusive beach resort combines all the right 

ingredients - subtle fi ve star comforts, natural 

beauty, environmental friendliness and lots of 

space. Located well distant from crowded beaches 

and other boutique resorts onKoh Lantaand close 

to Lanta Marine National Park, the only sound 

is that of the waves sliding in and out and slowly 

breaking onto the sandy beach. 

Built within the rainforest as it meets the silver 

ocean strand, you would hardly know Pimalai 

was there. This boutique beach resort occupies 

100 acres of tropical vegetation with direct access 

to a 900 meters stretch of pristine sandy beach 

and offers 121 accommodation units - Deluxe, 

Bayfront Deluxe, Pavillion Suite, Beach Villa and 

Pool Villa - all very elegantly appointed. 

From Krabi mainland, it takes about 1 hour by 

the resort boat to reach Koh Lanta and Pimalai 

but it is worth bearing this “hardship” in order to 

fi nd such a unique lost boutique paradise in tourist 

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Visit once and you will return again and again… 

PIMALAI RESORT & SPA: Koh Lanta, Krabi, Thailand | Tel: 320 5500 / Fax: 320 5503 | Email: reservation@pimalai.com | www.pimalai.com


FEST FOOD 

Guangzhou’s incredible culinary 

culture encompasses everything 

from genteel tea ceremonies to 

meals centred on serpents’ blood 

* PARTY TIME 

Annual celebrations like 

Chinese New Year and the Moon 

Cake Festival are major culinary 

events in Cantonese culture. In 

Xiguan, crowds fl ock to iconic 

stores like Huang Shang Huang, 

which sells fl attened strips of sweet 

preserved meat, Quxiang Cake 

House, famed for its moon cakes, 

and Ronghua Teahouse, home 

to popular peanut and sesame 

desserts. The delicacies on offer 

are lavishly wrapped and given as 

tokens of respect when families 

gather, or when someone wants to 

fl atter their boss into granting them 

a promotion. 

* TOUCHING THE HEART 

Yum cha, the traditional 

taking of tea and dim sum (bite-size 

snacks), remains the best-known 

aspect of Cantonese cuisine. 

Dim sum – rough translation: 

“touch the heart” – are the most 

iconic dishes in the Cantonese 

culinary arsenal. They range 

from bundles of glutinous rice, 

chicken and mushroom steamed 

in lotus leaves to pillowy har gau 

(shrimp dumplings), fl uffy char 

siew (barbecued pork) buns and 

decadent platters of roasted duck, 

all of which are typically washed 

down with Chinese tea. For fi rst-rate 

yum cha, head to the Guangzhou 

Restaurant (2 Wenchang Rd, tel: 

+86 (0)20 8188 8388), a local 

gastronomic icon. 

* SNAKE PREVIEW 

If you’re not the squeamish 

sort, head to the famed Xin Li Zhu 

Wan restaurant in the Guangzhou 

Mayor Plaza building on Tianhe 

Bei Rd, where the menu consists 

of everything from bat stew and 

snake’s blood to frog’s eyes in 

congee (rice porridge). Snake is 

especially popular here as it’s 

thought to help reduce fatigue and 

improve circulation. Guests can 

choose their serpent before it’s sent 

off to the kitchen. Be sure to book 

ahead as this is a regionally famed 

eatery that’s almost always packed. 

“Cantonese cuisine is as much about 

identity as it is about dining,” says Francis 

Cheung, a University of Leeds student who’s 

home for the holidays. We chat as I slurp up 

the contents of a steaming bowl of wonton 

mein (noodle soup with shrimp and pork 

dumplings). “Food is very important to the 

Cantonese,” Cheung adds. “It’s used to 

celebrate festivals at the changing of the 

seasons, it’s a way to mark respect or status 

and it brings families together. Of course, 

we think our cuisine is still the best, and that 

won’t change anytime soon.” 

As the old saying goes, the Cantonese 

eat everything with legs except a table and 

anything that fl ies except a feather duster. 

Visitors can test that claim back in the 

narrow lanes of Xiguan, where it’s possible 

to get a sense of Cantonese cuisine’s 

diversity. From where I sit I can see fl aming 

GUANGZHOU 

woks with vegetables being tossed in oil and 

oyster sauce and large bowls of fi ne egg 

noodles decorated with fl uffy hand-made 

wontons. Ducks, chickens and strips of 

sticky roasted pork hang in windows, whole 

fi sh is steamed in wicker baskets and lotus 

leaves, and bubbling claypots contain 

softening pork knuckle and quail eggs. 

Poorer cuts of meat are used in the 

making of many of these dishes, which 

aren’t for the squeamish. Maggie manages 

to persuade me to try the pig’s blood soup, 

which she grew up on. It’s spiced with 

spring onions and white pepper, and the 

jelly-like lumps are meaty and warming. If 

that sounds a bit close to the bone there are 

plenty of other, more accessible treats to 

snack on. These include juicy pork balls on 

sticks and chewy squid tentacles marinated 

in garlic and grilled over glowing coals. 

Guangzhou’s culinary church is an 

extremely broad one. While dishes 

involving pigs’ blood (top) aren’t for 

everyone, other items are a safer bet 


63


YIDE SEAFOOD MARKET SELLS DRIED FISH MAW, 

SEA WORMS, DRIED SCALLOPS, PRESERVED OYSTERS, SACKS 

OF PALE PINK SHRIMP, DRIED WHOLE FISH AND 

(SOMEWHAT CONTROVERSIALLY) SHARK FINS 

After eating we decide to take a walk. 

The air is scented with fi sh and spices as 

we approach the dried food stalls. Much 

of Cantonese cuisine relies on the potent 

fl avours of dried seafood or preserved 

vegetables. Wholesale markets, such as 

the expansive Yide Seafood Market, sell 

nothing but dried fi sh maw, sea worms, 

dried scallops, preserved oysters, sacks 

of pale pink shrimp, dried whole fi sh and 

(somewhat controversially) shark fi ns. It’s 

an absolutely fascinating place to visit, if a 

little, well, aromatic. 

Top-of-the-line seafood can be found 

at large, banquet-style eateries and 

at restaurants at leading hotels. For 

generations, only hotels have had the 

means to attract the best chefs, capable 

of turning out status dishes like braised 

abalone, lobster and shark’s fi n. Cramped 

living quarters mean that entertaining and 

celebrating tends to be done at restaurants 

like Lai Heen, the award-winning Cantonese 

restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton Guangzhou. 

“Cantonese cuisine is a healthy style 

of cooking and most dishes include fresh 

ingredients and light seasoning. Pungent 

seasonings are not used a lot,” says Tam 

Kongtong, Lai Heen’s chef, who has more 

than 40 years’ experience preparing 

Cantonese dishes like stewed pork belly with 

preserved vegetables, stuffed crispy duck 

and wok-fried minced pigeon. What’s more, 

he continues to champion Guangzhou’s 

claypot-cooking style. Lai Heen serves 

authentic, world-class Cantonese dishes at 

surprisingly affordable prices, and guests 

can even sample fresh incarnations of 

GUANGZHOU 

Chefs in Guangzhou have 

the advantage of access 

to the city’s wide range of 

produce. As one of China’s 

main trading hubs for 

centuries, the city is never 

short on ingredients 

timeless dishes that have been given subtle 

twists by Tam and his team. “More and 

more Chinese cooks are looking to combine 

modern elements with traditional methods,” 

he says. 

A place with forward-thinking chefs in 

abundance but one where the old ways are 

still revered, Guangzhou is a must for any 

self-respecting foodie. 

Tiger Airways offers several fl ights a 

week to Guangzhou from Singapore. 

Book at www.tigerairways.com 


65

66 


PHOTOGRAPHY: PTV VIETNAM

DALAT 

Don’t Look Down 

Once a genteel mountain retreat for colonial types, Dalat has been retooled 

as Vietnam’s extreme-sports capital. Gemma Price tests her vertical limit 


67

PHOTOGRAPHY: PTV VIETNAM 

people ever fall?” 

“Do 

I ask as I peer over 

a white plume of 

water that cascades 

across slimy crags 

before thundering into a plunge pool 25m 

below. “Oh, yeah,” says my guide, Dung, 

waving a half-eaten banana at me before 

pressing on with the making of a cheeseand-pork 

sandwich. “All the time.” That’s 

not exactly the answer I was hoping for. 

We’ve reached the halfway point of our 

canyoning expedition in Vietnam’s central 

highlands and now it’s time for the most 

stomach-churning part of the trip: an abseil 

down a waterfall, fed to a cascade of epic 

proportions by recent monsoon rains. 

We’ve been waiting for 20 minutes, my 

apprehension steadily building as, one by 

one, the members of the group that reached 

the cliff top before us lower themselves 

down. Tears, grins, terror-fi lled eyes – I’ve 

seen that and more as each climber has 

disappeared over the edge. As the number 

of exhausted bodies on the riverbank below 

gradually increases, my trepidation mounts. 

Suddenly, it’s my turn. My canyoning buddy 

Natalie, who goes by Nat, turns to me, her 

face full of concern. “Are you all right? You’re 

okay with heights, right?” The answer to her 

question is in my blood-drained face 

I doubt that when Dr Alexandre 

Yersin “discovered” Dalat in 1893 and 

recommended it as the ideal spot for 

Vietnam’s French colonisers to enjoy a 

DALAT 

The spectacular scenery and cooler climes 

of Vietnam’s central highlands have long 

been a draw for those looking to escape 

from the searing tropical heat near the 

coast and in Ho Chi Minh City 

little outdoor R&R, he could’ve imagined 

that a century later people from across the 

globe would be doing just that in helmets 

and harnesses. This former French colonial 

hill station, perched 1,500-2000m above 

sea level, is best known for its temperate 

climate, rolling green hills, French colonial 

villas, and gardens fi lled with orchids and 

strawberries. But the area’s jungle-swathed 

valleys and rocky hills are fast gaining 

renown among adventure-seekers. 


69

70 

DALAT 

I’d signed up for a day’s canyoning – the 

term for traversing a narrow river valley by 

scrambling, swimming and abseiling – and 

our day at Datanla Gorge had begun with us 

learning the ropes, literally. We were given 

instruction on how the belay device and 

harness worked and the correct abseiling 

technique among other things. We’d already 

completed two dry abseils of 15m and 18m. 

And while placing my feet on the edge, 

leaning back and taking my fi rst steps down 

the rock face had been nerve-wracking, 

with the encouragement of the guides and 

the rest of the group I’d negotiated each 

cliff successfully. But this waterfall abseil 

is something else entirely. It’s higher. It’s 

wet. It’s bloody terrifying. And now that 

Dung has been kind enough to inform me 


that people fall all the time, I fi nd myself 

rooted to the spot. “He doesn’t mean people 

fall, he means people slip all the time,” Nat 

says. “Even if we let go of our rope we’re still 

attached to the safety rope fi xed at the top 

of the waterfall.” Of course she’s right, but 

that doesn’t make it any easier to take the 

plunge. At long last, I summon the nerve to 

check my ropes as Dung has taught us, put 

on my game face, give the thumbs up and 

step into the rushing water. 

The rocks are slick with black-green 

vegetation and I quickly lose my footing and 

crash into the rock face. Water pours over 

my head, hammering my helmet and face 

and pushing my body fl at. I try to regain 

purchase several times but can’t – the rock 

is too slippery and the weight of the roaring 

A WATERFALL ABSEIL IS SOMETHING ELSE 

ENTIRELY. IT’S HIGHER. IT’S WET. 

IT’S BLOODY TERRIFYING 

Abseiling down cascading 

waterfalls is a central part of 

the canyoning experience in 

the highlands of Vietnam 

DO IT IN DALAT: 

There are plenty of options here 

for adrenaline junkies, including 

trekking, climbing, lake kayaking 

and hurtling along some of Asia’s 

best mountain biking trails. One 

inviting day trip begins with a 

scenic cycling journey through the 

highlands and along a 28km pass 

in the shadow of Nui Ba Mountain. 

There, you switch to raft to brave 

the Cai River rapids. Check the 

qualifi cations of your guides before 

engaging in any outdoor sport. At 

Phat Tire Ventures, all guides are 

trained and certifi ed. 109 Nguyen 

Van Troi St, tel: +84 (0)63 382 

9422, www.phattireventures.com 


Come and Visit 

Elephant Parade House 

while in Chiang Mai 

Other Elephant Parade Retail Partners in Asia 

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Come and visit 

me in Chiang Mai! 

SINGAPORE 

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Participate, if you wish, in a painting workshop 

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Elephant Parade House is a great and exciting new 

venue to spend a couple of hours with family, friends 

or colleagues in Chiang Mai. 

About Elephant Parade Elephant Parade is the 

world’s largest open air art exhibition of decorated 

elephant statues that seeks to attract public 

awareness and support for Asian elephant 

conservation. Created by local and international 

artists, each elephant is a unique piece of art. After 

the exhibition, most elephants are auctioned by a 

renowned auction house. Part of all proceeds from 

Elephant Parade auctions and merchandise is 

donated to The Asian Elephant Foundation. 

Be Part of It... 

Curious to visit Elephant Parade House? 

Free Shuttle Bus available, call us at: 

Tel : +66 53 279 816 

Elephant Parade House 

@ Chiangmai Land Village 

Soi 3, 420/1 Chiangmai Land Village, 

T.Changklan A.Muang Chiang Mai 50000 

Tel : +66 53 279 816 

elephantparade.com 

KUALA LUMPUR

PHOTOGRAPHY: PTV VIETNAM 

ADVENTURE LANDS: 

Where else to get your kicks across 

the Tiger Airways network: 

* CEBU 

Whatever your chosen 

fi x, you’re likely to fi nd it here: 

canyoning, caving, river trekking, 

volcano climbing, horseback riding, 

mountain biking, sea kayaking, 

scuba diving and (when you need 

a break) snorkelling. actionphilippines.com 

* JAVA 

Buckle up and dive into 

Indonesia: volcano trekking, tubing 

cave tours, caving, rafting and more. 

javalotustravel.webs.com 

* PERAK 

Slip into a Malaysian state 

of adventure with your chosen 

combination of rafting, abseiling, 

caving, canyoning and/or rainforest 

hiking. mmadventure.com 

water keeps pressing down on my legs. Half 

hanging, half lying, I spend what feels like 

an eternity in a state of blind panic. Little 

by little, I lower myself until I’ve reached a 

point where the onslaught of water is less 

powerful and the roaring in my ears has 

decreased. I try a few more times to regain 

my footing. Try and fail. Eventually I give up 

and continue my descent, feet dangling. 

Whenever I happen to twist in the direction 

of the small crowd below, I give a cheery 

wave to show that I’m okay. A few minutes 

later, after a short drop into the water and 

a swim, I reach the bank. I’m alive and I feel 

damned good considering my ordeal. 

This action-adventure lark is turning 

out to be quite enjoyable. The day before, 

DALAT 

The variety of landscapes 

near Dalat offers scope for 

everything from mountain 

biking to whitewater rafting 

Nat and I had taken a ride in a two-person, 

kayak-style infl atable raft on the Langbian 

River, running class 2, 3 and 4 rapids 

(river diffi culty is graded from 1 to 6, with 

6 being the most dangerous). Despite a 

few steering cock-ups (my fault) that saw 

us being carried by fast-fl owing water 

straight into some tree branches along the 

banks, we reached our destination largely 

unscathed. Though the rafting was fun, the 

canyoning expedition is a step up on the 

adrenaline scale. I fi gure I’m over the worst 

now that I’ve conquered the waterfall, but 

next comes a 14m cliff jump. I stand on the 

brink of jumping several times, my heart in 

my mouth and blood pounding in my ears. 

Each time I chicken out at the last second 


73

74 

DALAT 

before fi nally stepping out into the void and 

plummeting to the pool below. 

After a celebratory swim, we continue 

our journey along the gorge. At times we 

whiz over mini falls, hands crossed over our 

chests like we’re riding a waterslide. At other 

points we swim. At last we face the prospect 

of a notorious abseil known as the “washing 

machine”. Shorter than the others at 16m, 

it’s still a challenge. The initial descent is 

dry but the rock face quickly disappears, 

making it necessary to descend through 

thin air and straight into another waterfall 

that pours in from the side. “Once you’re in 

the water, you have to lower yourself quickly 

or you’ll spin on the end of the rope like a 

top,” says Dung as he checks my harness. 


WE FACE THE PROSPECT OF A NOTORIOUS 

ABSEIL KNOWN AS THE “WASHING MACHINE”. 

SHORTER THAN THE OTHERS AT 16M, 

IT’S STILL A CHALLENGE 

Fed by frequent rains, the 

rivers near Dalat can turn 

into fearsome torrents, which 

makes for some serious thrills 

One member of the group buckles at this 

point, opting to scramble down the trail to 

the river below. But after my two earlier 

victories, the washing machine looks to be a 

piece of cake. 

I make it down swiftly and drop into the 

plunge pool. And after being whirled around 

a few times at the bottom of the waterfall, 

I fl oat onwards and the river spits me out 

downstream. By this time I’ve slithered, 

slipped and slalomed down the river, and 

emerged from the Datanla Gorge in one 

piece. And I’d probably do it again. 

Tiger Airways fl ies twice daily to Ho 

Chi Minh City from Singapore. Book 

your fl ights at www.tigerairways.com 

WHERE TO STAY: 

* DELUXE 

ANA MANDARA VILLAS DALAT 

RESORT & SPA 

This 70-room resort features 

17 beautifully restored private 

residences built in the 1920s and 

’30s. It’s furnished simply in the 

French colonial style, with dark 

woods and white natural fabrics 

complementing the original 

features and design. Rates from 

US$181/S$222/A$176, including 

breakfast. Le Lai St, Ward 5, tel: 

+84 (0)63 3555 888, anamandararesort.com 

* MID-RANGE 

DU PARC HOTEL DALAT 

Located in the Dalat city centre, a 

stone’s throw from the lake and golf 

course, this 140-room hotel dates 

back to 1932. Its high-ceilinged, 

wooden-fl oored rooms, metal cage 

elevator and belle époque-inspired 

café, restaurant and bar speak to 

Dalat’s French colonial past. Rates 

from US$42/S$52/A$41, excluding 

breakfast. 12 Tran Phu St, tel: +84 

(0)63 382 5444, dalatresorts.com 

* BUDGET 

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 

Next door to legendary live music 

hub V Café – and run by the same 

family – this mini hotel has all 

the basic amenities. It’s clean, 

comfortable and well situated for 

exploring Dalat’s “downtown” area. 

Rates from US$17/S$21/A$17. 

174 Phan Dinh Phung St, 

tel: +84 (0)63 382 7999, 

dalatgreencityhotel.com 


EXPERIENCE PHUKET AT ITS BEST 

Phuket’s Most Exciting and Stylish Contemporary Resort 

– A culmination of a passion aimed to highlight the joy of life – 

Deliciously comfortable it features sleek yet sensual minimalist 

interiors – Exquisite food orchestrated by talented, creative 

chefs and presented in vibrant restaurants – A fashionable 

beach club, the ultimate in intimate seaside sophistication – 

Enormous swimming pools – Lushly landscaped tropical water 

gardens – Staff that continues to be the epitome of kindness 

and thoughtful unpretentious service that is so unique to 

Twinpalms Phuket Resort – 100% pure and natural products – 

A world class spa – Original art collections – A well equipped 

library... and these are just some of the reasons to stay at the 

privately owned, passionately run Twinpalms Phuket Resort in 

Thailand. 

www.twinpalms-phuket.com 

Twinpalms Phuket 

Phuket’s Most Exciting & Stylish Contemporary Resort 

106/46 Moo 3, Surin Beach Road, Cherng Talay, Phuket 83110, Thailand 

t +66 (0) 76 316500, f +66 (0) 76 316599 

e book@twinpalms-phuket.com w twinpalms-phuket.com

76 

Clockwise: Durbar Hall interior; 

Ranbir Kaleka, “Family Pictures”; 

Srinivasa Prasad, “Tailor Mama”, 

local Police viewing German show 

at Durbar Hall, Ernakulam; 

Ariel Hassan, “HFV, #8” 

tiger tales nov-dec

Turning 

on the 

Waterworks 

KOCHI 

As Kochi gears up to host India’s fi rst biennale – one 

with something of an “Atlantis” theme – Kerala’s artists 

seek wider exposure. Daisy Carrington paints the scene 

ompared to India’s heavyhitting 

metropolises, Kochi 

C 

is a sleepy trendsetter. 

It possesses none of the 

technological savvy of Bangalore, is no 

fashion centre and though there’s a fi lm 

industry, it’s a far cry from Bollywood. 

Truth be told, the ancient port city is 

defi ned more by its pioneering past 

than its future. Kochi was India’s fi rst 

international trading post, it was the fi rst 

part of the country to be colonised and 

it was home to the subcontinent’s fi rst 

Christian church, synagogue and mosque. 

For three months starting on 12 December, 

however, the venerable port city will set a 

benchmark when it plays host to India’s 

fi rst international arts festival – the Kochi- 

Muziris Biennale. 

Kochi isn’t the most obvious choice of 

host city for such an event. Tourists don’t 

tend to come here for its arts scene, but 

rather for the stupendous tapestry of land, 

sea and waterways that lie nearby. For Kochi 

sits at the edge of the famous backwaters, 

a journey along which is a quintessential 

bucket-list endeavour. The backwaters 

streak like capillaries through the 

countryside and come high season, they’re 

clogged with tourist-rented vessels. 

Comparisons to Venice – another 

waterlogged city that hosts an essential 

arts event – are all but inevitable. However, 

there are several features that make the 

Kochi-Muziris Biennale unique. For starters, 

there’s Muziris itself – India’s answer to 

Atlantis. It was a prosperous trading hub 

that from the fi rst century BC supplied 


77

A packed ferry on one of the region’s 

backwaters; (below, from left) biennale 

organiser Riyas Komu; artist Vinan Sundaram 

(right) plots his recreation of Muziris 

ART STOPPERS: 

Where to fi ll up between shows: 

* OCEANOS 

This colonial-style restaurant 

dishes out some of the best 

seafood in Kerala. Intricately 

spiced fi sh curries, tingling prawn 

fries and imaginative puddings 

make this place a standout. 

Anyone seeking proof that Kerala 

is home to the nation’s best cuisine 

need look no further. Elphinstone 

Residency, Elphinstone Rd, Fort 

Kochi, tel: +91 (0)484 221 8222, 

www.elphinstoneresidency.com 

* FRYS VILLAGE RESTAURANT 

Blissfully removed from 

the tourist trail, Frys Village 

Restaurant is a favourite with 

locals. The family-owned 

restaurant is unpretentious, 

but don’t let that fool you: the 

food is easily the best in town. 

Thalis – Kerala’s answer to the 

tasting menu – come highly 

recommended. They’re cheap and 

are a great way to sample a range 

of dishes. Chitoor Rd, Ernakulam, 

tel: +91 (0)484 235 3983 

* SHALA 

A sister restaurant to 

backpacker favourite Kashi Art 

Café, Shala eschews its sibling’s 

Western offerings for authentic 

Keralan cuisine. Local housewives 

staff the kitchen and the food is 

the real deal. The interior’s not too 

shabby either. Peter Celli St, Fort 

Kochi, tel: +91 (0)484 221 6036 

THE BACKWATERS STREAK LIKE CAPILLARIES THROUGH 

THE COUNTRYSIDE AND COME HIGH SEASON, 

THEY’RE CLOGGED WITH TOURIST-RENTED VESSELS 

the world with everything from spices to 

precious stones. Muziris drew traders from 

as far away as Rome, Greece and China 

until the 14th century, when it mysteriously 

disappeared under the sea – perhaps as 

a result of a fl ood or tsunami. In 2005, 

excavations just outside Kochi unearthed 

jewellery, pottery and coins linking the 

region to the Roman era. The fi nd suggested 

that, at last, Muziris had been found. 

The biennale founders have adopted 

KOCHI 

Muziris as a key theme for the event, and 

legions of Indian and international artists 

have journeyed here in recent months to 

research their projects. The hope is that 

they’ll draw attention not only to Kerala’s 

artistic heritage, but to its history as well. 

“Muziris supplies 2,500 years of history 

as an attachment to the event,” says Riyas 

Komu, the organiser. “There’s also a larger 

metaphor about the diffi culties the world’s 

going through.” 


79

80 

KOCHI 

Given the current global economic woes, 

it’s no surprise that the story of a fallen 

fi nancial powerhouse would resonate. 

The biennale’s theme has inspired some 

ambitious artworks. India’s leading 

installation artist, Vivan Sundaram, is 

using discarded terra cotta shards found 

at the excavation site to build a 37m2 reconstruction of Muziris (or his vision of 

it). He plans to both douse the installation in 

water and incorporate video of fl owing water 

to represent the city’s destruction. “It’s 

about the fragility of this thriving port town, 

of which little is actually known,” he says. As 

with many of the artworks, his installation 

will likely be displayed in one of the many 

heritage spaces that have opened up across 

the city for the event, including an old Dutch 

dockyard, a 17th-century military bungalow 

once used by the Dutch East India Company 

and a 19th-century British gentlemen’s club. 

Oddly absent from the list of venues are 

museums and galleries. The reason? Kochi 

doesn’t have enough to host a festival of 

this scale, which is surprising given that 


A huge range of spaces, 

from palatial stuctures to 

crumbling edifi ces, will be 

used during the biennale 

A RECONSTRUCTION OF MUZIRIS WILL BE DISPLAYED AT ONE 

OF THE MANY HERITAGE SPACES HERE, INCLUDING A DUTCH 

DOCKYARD, A 17TH-CENTURY MILITARY BUNGALOW 

ONCE USED BY THE DUTCH EAST INDIA COMPANY AND 

A 19TH-CENTURY BRITISH GENTLEMEN’S CLUB

82 

The large-scale venues offer artists 

the opportunity to display daring, 

widescreen installations that touch 

on a broad spectrum of thoughtprovoking 

topics, including politics 

and the environment 

tiger tales nov-dec

Kerala has long had one of the nation’s 

most thriving arts communities. “Kerala 

does seem to have its fair share of talented, 

noteworthy people, and in the many years 

we’ve been involved in the Kerala art scene, 

we’ve witnessed amazing growth,” says 

Dorrie Younger, who founded Kashi Art Café 

with her husband, Anoop Skaria. The café is 

one of Kochi’s few contemporary art spaces 

and has launched the careers of many local 

artists, including Rajan Krishnan, Sosa 

Joseph and Sebastian Verghese, all of whom 

have exhibited overseas. 

So why does Kerala produce so many 

artists compared to other Indian states? 

“For me, the biennale is a search to fi nd 

the answer to that question,” says Komu. 

“Though I’d say historically, we have a 

strong shared culture with lots of other 

countries and that has played a part.” 

The exceptionally high literacy rate is a 

contributing factor (at nearly 94%, Kerala 

has the highest rate of any state in India), as 

does a history of political activity. Kerala has 

fl irted with communism since the 1930s, 

and it was the fi rst region in the world with a 

democratically elected communist party. As 

Komu points out, “activism and art often go 

hand in hand.” 

Despite the region’s artistic heritage, few 

homegrown artists choose to stay in Kerala. 

Typically decrying a lack of infrastructure 

and opportunity, most move to Delhi or 

Mumbai. Alex Matthew, who’s one of the 

many Kerala-born artists taking part in the 

biennale, left the state years ago to further 

his career elsewhere. Since leaving his 

hometown of Trivandrum, he has exhibited 

throughout India as well as in Geneva, and is 

now a professor at the Central University of 

Hyderabad. “Kerala didn’t have much of an 

arts scene previously, now it does. But still, 

there aren’t that many proper exhibition 

spaces,” he says. Part of the problem, he 

believes, is the region’s priorities. “Most 

money from Kerala goes into fi lms and I 

think maybe 90% of them are not fi nancially 

successful, yet people keep on putting 

money into them. Maybe after the biennale, 

a rich person can start thinking about 

collecting some art.” 

Like Matthew, many of the participating 

artists seem to view the biennale’s potential 

more in terms of the greater good than any 

personal benefi t they might derive from it. 

“Biennales don’t do very much for careers 

in terms of market positioning. They don’t 

fi gure as much as an auction house,” 

Sundaram says. “But I do think it will 

increase awareness of what’s happening. 

There’s a need to promote Indian art in a 

public setting rather than in private galleries 

– it’s more likely to attract investment on a 

large scale.” 

Just launching a biennale is a major 

undertaking. The real challenge, though, 

is in keeping it going. Sundaram is keenly 

aware of the issues involved – he tried 

unsuccessfully to found a biennale in Delhi 

a few years back. “Biennales really have 

to have the city or the state behind them, 

otherwise they don’t get very far. That’s 

CREATIVE GENIUSES: 

Kerala has produced some of 

India’s most famous artistic 

visionaries. Here’s a brief 

selection: 

KOCHI 

* RAJA RAVI VARMA 

Long considered one of 

the greatest painters in Indian 

history, Raja Ravi Varma was one 

of the fi rst Indians to turn the 

international spotlight on the 

nation’s arts. He won fi rst prize at 

the Vienna Art Exhibition in 1873. 

* KCS PANICKER 

Considered the father of 

abstract painting, Panicker was 

one of the fi rst Indian artists 

to transcend the Western 

techniques that were the norm 

at the time. Though born in Tamil 

Nadu, Panicker was educated in 

Kerala and the region’s lushness 

infl uenced his early art. 

* KANAYI KUNHIRAMAN 

Throughout the region 

are examples of Kunhiraman’s 

surreal, sensual and ultra-modern 

sculptures. As he’s considered 

one of the region’s leading artists, 

the fact that Kunhiraman isn’t 

featured in the biennale has stirred 

up some controversy. 

* NN RIMZON 

This Kerala-born artist has 

garnered international acclaim for 

his enigmatic sculptures. Rimzon’s 

choice of materials varies and 

he’s worked with everything from 

stone to fi breglass. Politics, rural 

landscapes and ecology all fi gure 

prominently in his work, which has 

been exhibited in Delhi, Mumbai, 

New York, Sydney and Amsterdam. 

basically what happened to me. Truthfully, 

it’s a very courageous and ambitious 

project. But if the organisers can design well 

and continue an affi nity between the states, 

and the artists involved can continue to 

think imaginatively, then I think the Kochi- 

Muziris Biennale will defi nitely make an 

impact and hopefully Kochi will have many 

more biennales in the future.” 

Tiger Airways offers frequent fl ights 

between Singapore and Kochi. Book 

your fl ights at www.tigerairways.com 


83

touchdown 

Tiger Airways serves 48 destinations within Asia and Australia. 

Here are our top tips on where to eat, shop, play and stay. 

Happy travels! 

Bangalore 

Kochi 

INDIA 

Hyderabad 

Chennai 

Thiruvananthapuram Tiruchirappalli 

Colombo 

SRI LANKA 

Destination Guides 

BANGLADESH 

Dhaka 

VIETNAM 

THAILAND 

Bangkok 

Phuket 

Krabi 

Hat Yai 

Hanoi 

Penang 

Medan 

Kuala 

Lumpur 

CHINA 

Macau 

Haikou 

CAMBODIA 

Ho Chi 

Minh 

City 

Phnom Penh 

MALAYSIA 

Padang 

SINGAPORE 

Surabaya 

Jakarta 

86 Bacolod, Bali, Bangalore & Bangkok INDONESIA 

87 Cebu, Chennai, Colombo & Davao 

88 Dhaka, Guangzhou, Haikou & Hanoi 

89 Hat Yai, Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong & 

Hyderabad 

90 Iloilo, Jakarta, Kalibo & Kochi 

92 Kota Kinabalu, Krabi, Kuala Lumpur & 

Kuching 

94 Macau, Manila, Medan & Padang 

96 Penang, Phnom Penh, Phuket & 

Puerto Princesa 

98 Shenzhen, Singapore, Surabaya & Tacloban 

100 Taipei, Thiruvananthapuram & Tiruchirappalli 

102 Adelaide, Brisbane, Cairns & Gold Coast 

105 Hobart, Melbourne, Perth & Sydney 

Perth 

Tiger Bases 

TR - designated fl ights operated by Tiger Airways Singapore 

TT - designated fl ights operated by Tiger Airways Australia 

DG - designated fl ights operated by SEAIR 

RI - designated fl ights operated by MANDALA 

Guangzhou 

Shenzhen 

Hong 

Kong 

Kuching 

Clark 

(Manila) 

Taipei 

TAIWAN 

PHILIPPINES 

Kalibo (Boracay) 

Iloilo 

Bacolod 


Kota Kinabalu 

MALAYSIA 

Denpasar (Bali) 

Manila 

(NAIA) 

AUSTRALIA 

Adelaide 

Tacloban 

Cebu 

Davao 

Melbourne 

(Tullamarine) 

For an up-to-the-minute list of our destinations, visit www.tigerairways.com 

Cairns 

Hobart 

Mackay 

Brisbane 

Gold Coast 

Sydney 

nov-dec tiger tales

86 

touchdown ... ASIA 

UPDATED EVERY ISSUE 

Bacolod 

PHILIPPINES 

INSIDER TIP 

Less than 20km south of 

town is Mambukal Hot Springs, 

halfway up Mount Kanlaon, where 

in the late afternoon giant fruit 

bats take wing. 

SHOP TALK 

At Kape Mabuhay, a cup of 

freshly roasted coffee made 

from locally grown beans sells 

for pocket change. Ground or 

whole beans by the bag are 

also available. Hernaez St, 

Libertad Market 

CHEAP EATS 

You simply can’t leave without 

trying the chicken inasal at 

Manukan Country, a strip of 

food stalls that all sell Bacolod’s 

famed, grilled speciality. For most 

locals, it’s a toss-up between 

Aida’s and Nena’s. Gatuslao St 

TOP TABLES 

The menu at Pendy’s ranges 

from Spanish classics like callos 

(ox-tripe stew) to American-style 

open-faced chicken sandwiches. 

Don’t miss out on the pastries. 

Cnr 25th and Lacson Sts, tel: +63 

(0)34 434 0269 

LATE & LIVELY 

Kuppa Coffee and Tea is 

more restaurant than café. 

The food’s mostly Italian, with 

Filipino and American options for 

breakfast. Leave room for gelati. 

Capitol Shopping Center, Cnr 

Tindalo and Hilado Sts, tel: +63 

(0)34 433 6562 

OVERNIGHT 

The Business Inn has 

charms that belie its functional 

name. Conveniently located, 

the place offers superb rooms 

and amenities at surprisingly 

affordable rates. 28 South 

Lacson St, tel: +63 (0)34 433 

8877, http://bacolodbusinessinn. 

com 


Bali 

INDONESIA 

NEW 

INSIDER TIP 

Avoid the New Year’s Eve 

gridlock in Kuta-Legian- 

Seminyak. Instead, head to the 

beach and join the biggest NYE 

party of all, where fi reworks are 

set off from sunset to midnight. 

SHOP TALK 

Beachwalk has 200 premium 

retail stores and eateries, the 

XXI Cineplex, a stage, musical 

fountain and thatched-roof, 

open-air walkways right beside 

Kuta Beach. Jln Pantai Kuta, www. 

beachwalkbali.com 

Bangalore 

INDIA 

INSIDER TIP 

The Peanut Festival happens 

during the last week of November 

in the streets surrounding Bull 

Temple in Basavanagudi. Farmers 

make offerings before selling 

their crops. 

SHOP TALK 

The Bombay Store is home 

to quirky gifts. How about a Taj 

Mahal cardholder, an umbrella 

decorated with Kathakali dancers 

or a mousepad featuring the 

metro map. 1/F, 1 MG Mall, 1/2 

Swami Vivekananda Rd, www. 

thebombaystore.com 


Bangkok 

THAILAND 

INSIDER TIP 

Flow House Bangkok boasts 

South-East Asia’s fi rst artifi cial 

wave machine and brings surfi ng 

and body-boarding to downtown 

Bangkok. Sukhumvit Soi 26, 

www.fl owhousebangkok.com 

SHOP TALK 

Zud Rangma Records 

has one of the most eclectic 

collections of recordings in 

Thailand, with an emphasis on 

vintage Thai tunes, funk, reggae 

and ska. Sukhumvit Soi 51, www. 

zudrangmarecords.com 

TOP TABLES 

Mozaic Beach Club has the 

same concept as Ubud’s Mozaic 

Restaurant Gastronomique but 

here, ocean-front fi ne dining, 

poolside tapas and a lounge deck 

are the big draws. Jln Pantai Batu 

Belig, Seminyak, www.mozaicbeachclub.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Potato Head Beach Club is 

the place for fun. Think sunset 

DJ sessions, mixologist-inspired 

cocktails in the infi nity-edge pool 

and Bali’s hottest dance parties. 

Jln Petitenget, Seminyak, www. 

blog.ptthead.com 

OVERNIGHT 

CHEAP EATS 

The North Indian vegetarian 

fare at Café Imli is fresh and 

delicious. The open-air terrace 

and retro Bollywood fi lm music 

make a meal here all the more 

COOMBER, 

enjoyable. 204 5th Main, 7th 

Cross, Indiranagar 1st Stage, 

www.imli.co.in 

SAMANTHA BALI: LEDESMA, LESTER 

LATE & LIVELY 

One of the newer nightspots 

in town, 380 Down has a rock 

’n’ roll theme and a laidback 

PHOTOGRAPHY: 

atmosphere that draws crowds. 

3, 80 Feet Rd, Indiranagar, tel: 

+91 (0)80 4098 0380 

LIMGENCO, 

Singapore’s L Hotel Group and 

“Mr and Mrs Smith style” have 

ANTONIO 

arrived in the form of L Hotel, 

with butler service, 30 sexy suites 

JOSE 

and über-contemporary designer 

fl air. 8L, Jln Raya Petitenget, 

Seminyak, tel: +62 (0)361 473 

3147, www.thelhotels.com BACOLOD: OVERNIGHT 

TOP TABLES 

Chef Ian Kittichai has brought 

high-end, nose-to-tail eating 

to Bangkok with Smith. Enjoy 

dishes ranging from pork belly 

and oxtail to haggis and Wagyu 

burgers. Sukhumvit Soi 49, www. 

smith-restaurant.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Above Eleven, a Peruvian- 

Japanese rooftop bar and 

restaurant with South Americanstyle 

music, is a laidback warmup 

venue on one of the city’s most 

kicking streets. Sukhumvit Soi 11, 

www.aboveeleven.com 

Located in a residential area 

with many high-end shops and 

restaurants, Escape is a small 

and elegant boutique hotel 

catering to the business traveller. 

770, 100 Feet Rd, Indiranagar, 

tel: +91 (0)80 4241 5555, www. 

escapehotels.in 

OVERNIGHT 

CHEAP EATS 

CHEAP EATS 

Ibu Oka Warung is 

For the city's best khao 

legendary for its crispy- 

man gai (chicken rice), head 

skinned suckling pig roasted 

to Boon Tong Kiat, which is 

over coconut husks with 

famed for the Singaporean- 

blood sausage and veggies 

friendly fl avour of its fi ery, 

on a banana leaf. Jln Suweta, 

piquant sauces. Thong Lo Soi 

Tegal Sari 2, Ubud 

16, tel: +66 (0)2 390 2508 

TOP TABLES 

Local landmark Karavalli 

is famed for its exquisite 

coastal cuisine. Dine in the 

lush garden or the rusticstyle 

bungalow. The Gateway 

Hotel, 66 Residency Rd, www. 

thegatewayhotels.com 

Splash out in style at the 

Okura Prestige Bangkok, the 

Japanese luxury brand’s fi rst 

Thailand resort. Impressive 

architecture, fabulous rooms 

and staggering views add to 

the hotel’s allure. Wireless Rd, 

tel: +66 (0)2 687 9000, www. 

okurabangkok.com 

Very affordable Good value Worth the splurge 

PHOTOGRAPHY: KARMA KENDARA, BANGALORE: ISABEL PUTINJA, BANGKOK: GREG LOWE

CEBU: MICHAEL AQUINO, CHENNAI: KIRAN RAJAGOPALAN, COLOMBO: HANNAH STUART-LEACH, 

DAVAO: MICHAEL AQUINO, PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES 

UPDATED EVERY ISSUE ASIA ... touchdown 

Cebu 

PHILIPPINES 

INSIDER TIP 

From 24-25 November, the 

Kabkaban Festival in Carcar is 

held with the aim of driving away 

bad luck while also providing 

visitors with a rare look at smalltown 

Cebu fi esta culture. 

SHOP TALK 

A monument to Cebu’s famed 

dried mango industry, Profood 

Gallery features a museum and 

souvenir shop, and offers factory 

tours. Hwy, Maguikay, Mandaue 

City, http://profoodgallery.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Cebu’s love affair with roast 

pork reaches its zenith with 

Cebu’s original lechon belly. 

Experience a boneless version 

of this calorifi c treat, served 

hot with rice, at Waka-Waka 

Grill. Wilson St, Lahug, http:// 

cebuslechonbelly.com 

TOP TABLES 

Captain A’s Seafood 

Grill serves up an authentic 

“boodle fi ght” (group meal 

with no plates or cutlery) in 

a restaurant setting. G/F, 

Skyrise 3, Cebu IT Park, Apas, 

www.captain-as.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

With décor sourced from 

fl ea markets and scrapyards in 

Germany, China and the Middle 

East, the laidback Scrapyard 

fl aunts a quirky interior that’s a 

surefi re conversation starter. 

1 Paseo Saturnino, tel: +63 (0)32 

520 8877 

OVERNIGHT 

There’s no better budget 

option downtown than La 

Guardia Hotel, featuring airconditioned 

rooms with TVs and 

hot running water for less than 

A$12/S$15 a night. Osmeña Blvd, 

tel: +63 (0)32 416 7889, http:// 

laguardiahotelcebu.com 

Chennai 

INDIA 

INSIDER TIP 

Chennai’s December 

Season is one of the world’s 

largest cultural events, 

packed with classical dance 

and music performances 

citywide. Local papers run 

line-ups and schedules. 

SHOP TALK 

Radha Silk Emporium 

is a one-stop destination for 

high-quality, traditional silk 

saris, textiles, ethnic wear and 

handicrafts. 1 Sannidhi St, 

Mylapore, www.rasisilks.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Art lovers and foodies fl ock 

to Narada Gana Sabha to 

attend performances and enjoy 

Gnanambika’s delicious South 

Indian food. The open-air canteen 

operates only during December 

Season. 314 TTK Rd, Alwarpet, 

tel: +91 (0)44 2499 3201 

TOP TABLES 

Peshawri serves up the best 

northwest frontier cuisine around 

and boasts exceptional service. 

Be sure to try the dal Bukhara 

(black lentil stew). 10 Cathedral 

Rd, Gopalapuram, www. 

fortunehotels.in 

LATE & LIVELY 

The Park Hotel is home to 

Chennai’s hottest nightclub 

(Pasha), a 24-hour eatery (Six- 

O-One), a sleek bar (Leather Bar) 

and much more. 601 Anna Salai, 

www.theparkhotels.com 

OVERNIGHT 

Beyond its tasteful décor, 

ample amenities and superb 

breakfast menu, Footprint 

Bed & Breakfast is within easy 

reach of a number of prestigious 

performance halls. 2B, Gayatri 

Apts, 16 Sriram Nagar South St, 

Alwarpet, tel: +91 (0)98 4003 

7483, www.footprint.in 


Colombo 

SRI LANKA 

INSIDER TIP 

Catch the Electric Peacock 

Festival in mid-December 

at the Galle Buck Lighthouse 

for a taste of the capital’s 

burgeoning DJ scene. Chaitiya 

Rd, Colombo Fort, www. 

electricpeacockfestival.com 

SHOP TALK 

If you’re hitting Sri Lanka’s 

world-class surf, pick up some 

Arugam Bay beachwear fi rst. 

Proceeds from every purchase 

help support the community of 

its east coast namesake. www. 

lovearugambay.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Pop into the homely Milk 

& Honey Café for a lovingly 

prepared raw veg wrap and 

a gorgeous selection of 

wholesome cakes and detox 

juices. 12 Barnes Pl, Colombo 

07, tel: +94 (0)11 523 4323 

TOP TABLES 

Chinese restaurant Loon Tao 

boasts a beachfront location, 

fresh seafood dishes, live 

acoustic music and a laidback 

ambience. 43/12 College Ave, Mt 

Lavinia, www.loontao.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Pull up a stool at the hip SKKY 

Bar, treat yourself to a heady 

cocktail and get even higher on 

the vivid night views across Galle 

Face Green and out to sea. 42 Sir 

MMM Mawatha, Colombo 03, tel: 

+94 (0)77 045 0792 

OVERNIGHT 

CASA Colombo’s grand 

façade is a 200-year-old Moorish 

mansion, which reveals nothing 

of the 12 chic, retro suites that 

await inside. Choose from a trio 

of eateries and plunge into the 

pink pool. 231 Galle Rd, Colombo 

04, tel: +94 (0)11 452 0130, www. 

casacolombo.com 

Davao 

PHILIPPINES 

INSIDER TIP 

Davao celebrates an awfully 

quiet Christmas season 

compared to the rest of the 

Philippines. Fireworks are banned 

during the holidays. 

SHOP TALK 

Chimes is an upscale 

shopping centre near Davao’s 

Chinatown that has recently 

seen the addition of a new 

“Filipiniana” souvenir section. 

Governor Sales St, tel: +63 

(0)82 225 8997 

CHEAP EATS 

Catering to Davao’s 

bottomless appetite for cheap 

grilled food, Barbeque Boss 

serves skewers of delicious roast 

pork for pocket change. Prime 

Square, F Torres St, tel: +63 

(0)922 898 2677 

TOP TABLES 

Oddly enough, a Dutchman 

serves the best beef in Davao 

City. He holds court at De Bonte 

Koe, an unpretentious butchery 

and deli that’s home to hearty 

European favourites. La Habana 

Compound, Rizal St, tel: +63 

(0)82 222 7585 

LATE & LIVELY 

Avenue S Bar & Grill is a 

friendly watering hole with cheap 

beer and top-notch grub. A match 

or two at their foosball table 

can help break the ice. Damosa 

Gateway, www.avenue-s.com 

OVERNIGHT 

For the most comfortable 

night’s stay in downtown Davao, 

book into The Royal Mandaya 

Hotel, housed in a modern, 

neo-Islamic structure that’s 

just a short walk from JP Laurel 

Ave, Davao’s main business 

district. Jose Palma Gil St, tel: 

+63 (0)82 225 8888, www. 

theroyalmandayahotel.com 


87

88 



Dhaka 

BANGLADESH 

INSIDER TIP 

The Liberation War 

Museum tells the story of the 

1971 War of Independence, 

which led to East Pakistan’s 

secession and the creation of 

Bangladesh. Segun Bagicha 

Rd, tel: +880 (0)2 955 9091 

SHOP TALK 

If you’re looking for souvenirs, 

Shankaria Bazar in Old Dhaka 

is the perfect place to browse 

through everything from conch 

shell jewellery to rickshaw art. Off 

Islampur Rd 

CHEAP EATS 

Situated in central Dhaka, 

Café Mango is hard to fi nd but 

worth the search for its great 

selection of sandwiches, soups 

and other Western favourites. 

Off Mirpur Rd, tel: +880 (0)2 913 

6686 

TOP TABLES 

Mexican in Bangladesh? It’s 

not a misprint. For a little Latin 

fl avour with a twist, try quirky 

eatery El Toro in Gulshan. House 

1A Rd, 138 Gulshan 1, tel: +880 

(0)2 885 2863 

LATE & LIVELY 

As Bangladesh is an Islamic 

country, it can be hard to fi nd a 

place for a drink. The Pan Pacifi c 

Sonargaon in the centre of 

town is a serene place to enjoy a 

cold beer or a glass of wine. The 

Balcony Bar is recommended. 

107 Kazi Nazrul Islam Ave, www. 

panpacifi c.com 

OVERNIGHT 

Dhaka can be hard going, so 

enjoy a little pampering at the 

Lakeshore Hotel in Gulshan. 

With luxury suites, a spa and 

a rooftop pool, it’s worth the 

splurge. House 46, Rd 41, tel: 

+880 (0)2 885 9991, www. 

lakeshorehotel.com.bd 


Guangzhou 

CHINA 

INSIDER TIP 

There are a host of hot 

springs within a one- or two-hour 

drive of the city. Book a day trip 

with a local travel agent to enjoy a 

good soak and some pampering. 

SHOP TALK 

Find souvenirs and plenty 

more at Wanling Plaza, a huge 

seven-fl oor wholesale market 

with bargains galore. Haggle 

hard! 39 Jiefang Nan Rd, tel: +86 

(0)20 8328 0088 

CHEAP EATS 

Using a time-tested soupbase 

recipe and handmade 

noodles, Di Yi Mian serves up 

a wide range of wonton noodle 

soups. 1004 Kangwang Bei 

Rd, Liwan District, tel: +86 

(0)20 8328 0088 

TOP TABLES 

Winter is the time to nourish 

your body with good doubleboiled 

soup. With 50 varieties 

on offer, Shiyang Fang has the 

right treat for your palate and 

your health. Booth 359-361, 230 

Tianhe Bei Rd, tel: +86 (0)20 

8752 1026 

LATE & LIVELY 

Housed in a two-storey villa, 

the Sleeping Flower Restaurant 

and Bar ranks high on the 

popularity meter thanks to its 

creative cocktails and Paulaner 

on tap. 30 Liede Dadao, Zhujiang 

New Town, Tianhe District, tel: 

+86 (0)20 3824 5100 

OVERNIGHT 

Just fi ve minutes on foot 

from Guangzhou East Train 

Station and the subway, Vili 

International Apartment 

one-ups its rivals in the area by 

offering serviced apartments 

with kitchen and laundry 

facilities. 167 Lin He Xi Rd, tel: 

+86 (0)20 3877 6521 

Haikou 

CHINA 

INSIDER TIP 

Sea urchin sashimi is 

well-known in Haikou, while 

steamed sea urchin with egg is 

also popular here. Both can be 

ordered at most restaurants. 

SHOP TALK 

The shops along Haixiu 

Dadao make souvenir shopping 

a snap, offering pearls, bone 

carvings, local coffee, black 

pepper, sweets and more. Haixiu 

Da Dao near Haikou Hotel 

CHEAP EATS 

Tender beef, vegetables, 

noodles and spicy sauces make 

for a tasty bowl of soup at Hunan 

Jinshi Noodle Shop. What’s 

more, it’s only about a dollar for 

a large serving with free side 

dishes. Cnr Jinzhou Rd and 

Guomao Dadao, Longhua District, 

tel: +86 (0)898 6853 2989 

TOP TABLES 

Made with Wenchang 

chicken, the hotpot at 

Longquanren Coconut 

Chicken Restaurant is a 

delight. Longquan Garden 

Hotel, 3 Haixiu Dong Rd, tel: 

+86 (0)898 6658 1549 

LATE & LIVELY 

Mingle with bibliophiles and 

fi lm fans at City Movie & Book 

Café, where you can curl up 

and read or catch a fl ick on the 

mezzanine or in a private room. 

2/F, Bldg 3 Tailong Cheng, 4 

Datong Rd, Longhua District, tel: 

+86 (0)898 6622 8287 

OVERNIGHT 

Banana Hostel is home to 

a dormitory and private rooms 

and has free Wi-Fi, a lounge, 

garden and restaurant where 

guests enjoy Western breakfasts 

and pizza. Blk 3 & 4, Liyuan, 21 

Renmin Dadao, Meilan District, 

tel: +86 (0)898 6628 6780 


Hanoi 

VIETNAM 

INSIDER TIP 

A new service whisks 

sightseers around West Lake’s 

18km-long ring road in an 

oversized golf buggy. Pay extra 

for a guide and stop at cultural 

attractions along the way. www. 

tlc-hotay.com 

SHOP TALK 

Mekong Quilts specialises in 

high-quality, hand-stitched bed 

covers, accessories and giftware. 

Profi ts enable the embroiderers 

to remain in their communities. 

Locations at 13 Hang Bac, 58 

Hang Trong and 9 Xuan Dieu, tel: 

+84 (0)4 3926 4831 

CHEAP EATS 

At any time of the day or night, 

stop by Xoi Yen for a restorative 

dose of sticky rice (xoi). Try xoi 

xeo (sticky rice fl avoured with 

turmeric and served with mung 

beans and crunchy shallots). 35B 

Nguyen Huu Huan 

TOP TABLES 

A laidback, stylish eatery, 

Southgate lays out a fi ne spread 

of international dishes with 

plenty of Mediterranean touches. 

And the bar staff pours a mean 

cocktail. 28 Tong Duy Tan, www. 

southgatehanoi.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

A clubby bar in the heart 

of the capital’s Old Quarter, 

Funky Buddha features DJs 

every night and draws a mix of 

dolled-up locals and partying 

expats. 2 Ta Hien, tel: +84 

(0)4 3292 7614 

OVERNIGHT 

Hotel Zephyr is a stylish, 

elegant boutique hotel right 

by the city’s historical and 

spiritual centrepiece, the fabled 

Hoan Kiem Lake. 4 Ba Trieu, 

tel: +84 (0)4 3934 1256, www. 

zephyrhotel.com.vn 


DHAKA: BEN STUBBS, GUANGZHOU: MAY GUAN, HAIKOU: MAY GUAN, HANOI: CONNLA STOKES

HAT YAI: DAVID HOGAN JR, HO CHI MINH CITY: HENNO KOTZÉ, HONG KONG: EDWARD ANTHONY PETERS, 

HYDERABAD: NAZEEN KOONDA, PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES 

UPDATED EVERY ISSUE ASIA ... touchdown 

Hat Yai 

THAILAND 

INSIDER TIP 

Bullfi ghting events are held 

on the fi rst Saturday and Sunday 

of the month at Noen Khum Tong 

Stadium and Amphoe Klonggit. 

Details available at the tourism 

offi ce. tel: +66 (0)7 424 3747 

SHOP TALK 

One of Hat Yai's most 

popular markets is located 

by the Lee Garden Hotel. 

Munch on fresh nuts while 

browsing clothes and 

accessories. Beware of 

knock-offs. Sanehanusorn Rd 

CHEAP EATS 

Khlong Hae Floating Food 

Market has staggeringly low 

prices and you can sample just 

about every Thai treat there is. 

Open on Fridays, Saturdays and 

Sundays from 3pm until 9pm. 

www.klonghaecity.org 

TOP TABLES 

Chekkar Restaurant has a 

lovely outdoor area and serves 

halal Muslim-Thai food. Try the 

special fried fi sh with vegetables 

or the fried beef. 884-888 

Kanchanawanich Rd, Songkhla, 

tel: +66 (0)74 365 264 

LATE & LIVELY 

In operation for the past 

decade, Kiss Channel Pub is 

one of Hat Yai’s longest-running 

clubs. Three bands perform 

nightly and there are DJ-spun 

tunes, too. 5 1/2 Hoimook Rd, tel: 

+66 (0)74 234444 

OVERNIGHT 

The three-Star Asian Hotel is 

located in the main business and 

shopping district. Local markets 

are just a fi ve- to ten-minute 

walk away while the city’s main 

shopping malls are just around 

the corner. 55 Niphat-Uthit 3 Rd, 

tel: +66 (0)74 353400, http:// 

asianhotel-hatyai.com 

Ho Chi Minh City 

VIETNAM 

INSIDER TIP 

Bitexco Financial Tower is 

Vietnam’s second tallest structure 

and offers stunning 360º views 

of the city and the Saigon River 

from the 49th-fl oor viewing deck. 

There’s a newly opened eatery one 

fl oor above. 35 Ngo Duc Ke, D1, 

www.bitexcofi nancialtower.com 

SHOP TALK 

Ipa-Nima’s iridescent façade 

draws customers like moths to a 

fl ame and the bold use of colours 

can also be seen in its vast range 

of accessories. 77-79 Dong Khoi, 

D1, tel: +84 (0)8 3822 3277 

CHEAP EATS 

Mi Nhat Osaka or Osaka 

Ramen does no-nonsense 

noodles at their slurpy best. Pop 

in over lunch for an affordable 

combo that includes gyoza 

(dumplings). 18 Thai Van Lung, D1 

TOP TABLES 

At the newly opened 

Restaurant Bobby Chinn, 

expect sterling service, fi ne 

cocktails, a cheeky menu 

of fusion dishes and a lush 

locale. 39 Le Duan St, D1, 

www.bobbychinn.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

As the sports season hits its 

stride, Red Bar and Restaurant 

offers big screens and a smokefree 

second fl oor that caters to 

families and die-hards alike. 7-72 

Ngo Duc Ke, D1, tel: +84 (0)12 

8504 3824 

OVERNIGHT 

Situated on a quiet bend in the 

Saigon River, Thao Dien Village 

has rooms overlooking the garden 

or water. Kids can stay busy on the 

sprawling lawn while the grownups 

enjoy some “me-time” at the 

spa. 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2, 

tel: +84 (0)8 3744 6457, www. 

thaodienvillage.com 


Hong Kong 

CHINA 

INSIDER TIP 

The Hong Kong Tourism 

Board’s free mobile apps for 

iPhone and Android cover 

everything from city tours to wine 

pairings with Cantonese cuisine. 

And the “720º Panorama” is 

nothing short of inspirational. 

www.discoverhongkong.com 

SHOP TALK 

First there was the hype, 

then scores of topless 

hunks. Now that it’s open, 

Abercrombie & Fitch is still 

the most talked-about shop in 

town. 12 Pedder St, Central, 

www.abercrombie.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Hong Kong loves its fi sh ‘n’ 

chips and there’s no better place 

to scoff them than Camden 

Town on Sai Kung’s waterfront 

– especially when it’s less than 

HK$50 a plate. 49 Hoi Pong St, 

Sai Kung, tel: +852 9279 3839 

TOP TABLES 

Fancy some gourmet food 

paired with craft beer or a sunset 

Champagne cruise? LazyDays, 

a sleek, 60ft motor yacht, serves 

up fi ve-star dining. There are even 

spa therapists onboard. www. 

lazydays.com.hk 

LATE & LIVELY 

F Scott Fitzgerald meets Lewis 

Carroll in a blend of Paris and 

New York at Taboo, the city’s 

latest, hottest, wildest club and 

lounge. 16 Arbuthnot Rd, Central, 

www.taboo.com.hk 

OVERNIGHT 

Auberge is unlike any other 

hotel in town. It’s right by the 

beach, a short drive from a 

27-hole golf course, and has 

gourmet food and a stunning 

spa. 88 Siena Ave, Discovery 

Bay, tel: +852 2459 8688, www. 

aubergediscoverybay.com 

Hyderabad 

INDIA 

INSIDER TIP 

Not to be missed is Salar 

Jung Museum, home to a 

huge collection of artworks 

from the eponymous noble 

family, including the famous 

Veiled Rebecca. www. 

salarjungmuseum.in 

SHOP TALK 

If you’re a bibliophile, a Sunday 

morning pilgrimage to Abids 

is a must. The entire stretch 

from Hollywood to GPO is given 

over to a market that’s home 

to bestsellers and collector’s 

editions of classics at low prices. 

CHEAP EATS 

Head to the nearest tiffi n 

centre for the fl uffi est idlis 

(savoury cakes), the crunchiest 

vadas (fritters) and a wide variety 

of lemon, tomato and tamarind 

rice dishes, not to mention some 

amazing chutneys (condiments) 

and sambars (stews). 

TOP TABLES 

At Firdaus, try signature 

Hyderabadi dishes like Nalli 

gosht (a meat dish) and desserts 

like Kubani ka meetha (dried 

apricots) while being treated to 

melodious ghazals (song-poems). 

www.tajhotels.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Stroll through the brightly lit 

bazaars near Charminar and 

munch on local delicacies while 

bargaining for shoes, clothes and 

accessories at little shops that 

stay open around the clock. 

OVERNIGHT 

Stay at The Westin 

Hyderabad Mindspace to 

pamper yourself at the Heavenly 

Spa, enjoy some mouthwatering 

kebabs at Kangan or 18 holes of 

golf at the Boulder Hills Golf and 

Country Club. www.emaarmgf. 

com/boulderhill 


89

90 


Iloilo 

PHILIPPINES 

INSIDER TIP 

Consider taking jeepneys 

and tricycles instead of taxis to 

the sights you’re keen to visit. 

It’s better to hop in the front seat 

if you plan to converse with the 

driver. 

SHOP TALK 

Skip the malls and head to the 

public market where goods are 

substantially cheaper and where 

you can interact with Ilonggos. 

Make friends here or just ask 

locals for their advice on what to 

see and do. 

CHEAP EATS 

Take a jeepney to La Paz 

Public Market, ask around for 

the Netong Original Batchoy 

stall, then reward yourself by 

ordering this rich, delicious 

noodle soup with pork. 

Huervana St, La Paz 

TOP TABLES 

Uncle Tom’s has a peaceful, 

artsy vibe to it, which makes it 

the perfect place to hang out and 

chat over a cup of coffee. Sen 

Benigno Aquino Ave, Mandurriao, 

tel: +63 (0)33 300 3563 

LATE & LIVELY 

Esplanade, inspired by its 

Singaporean namesake, is a new 

recreation area. Stroll along the 

riverside at night or have a few 

beers with friends at any of the 

nearby restaurants. Esplanade 

extends from Treñas Boulevard in 

Mandurriao all the way to Drilon 

Bridge in La Paz. 

OVERNIGHT 

The Grand Tower Suites 

offers charm, comfort and a 

convenient location within easy 

reach of SM City Iloilo Mall, the 

Capital Building, Museo Iloilo 

and the local tourism offi ce. TTK 

Bldg, Iznart St, tel: +63 (0)33 335 

1005 


Jakarta 

INDONESIA 

INSIDER TIP 

Antara Gallery of 

PhotoJournalism is housed in 

a beautifully renovated Dutch 

building in the Pasar Baru 

neighbourhood. 59 Jln Antara, 

Central Jakarta, www.gfja.org 

SHOP TALK 

Palembang-style songkets 

are hand-woven outfi ts in silk 

or cotton, richly patterned with 

gold or silver threads. Buy one 

at Zainal Songket. 13A, 29 Jln 

Kebon Kacang, Central Jakarta, 

tel: +62 (0)21 314118 

CHEAP EATS 

No one does Makassar-style 

ribs better than Sop Konro 

Karebosi. Choose yours grilled 

and topped with peanut sauce 

or in a savoury soup. 17A, Jln KH 

Abdullah Syafe’i, Tebet, South 

Jakarta 

TOP TABLES 

Ocha & Bella has two 

great menus, Italian and 

Nuovo Izakaya (Japanese). 

Dig in and be transported 

far from the Big Durian. 70 

Jln KH Wahid Hasyim, www. 

ochaandbella.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Where to go for after-dinner 

drinks? The place to see and be 

seen these days is Skye, at the 

top of the Menara BCA. Level 56, 

1 Jln MH Thamrin, tel: +62 (0)21 

2358 6996 

OVERNIGHT 

Leisure and business travellers 

will feel equally at home at the 

Amaris Hotel Tendean, the place 

for a simple but comfortable stay 

within easy reach of shopping 

havens such as Pacifi c Place and 

Plaza Semanggi. 11 Jln Kapten P 

Tendean, Mambang Prapatan, 

tel: +62 (0)21 5296 2228, www. 

amarishotel.com 

Kalibo 

PHILIPPINES 

INSIDER TIP 

Check out of your Boracay 

resort at least four to fi ve hours 

before your scheduled departure 

at Kalibo Airport to ensure that 

you’ll make your fl ight on time. 

SHOP TALK 

Get colourful sarongs, 

swimwear, accessories and 

art on the cheap at Galeria 

Kulay Beachwear, a shop 

with hippie charm. Stall 75-76, 

D’Talipapa, Station 2, tel: +63 

(0)36 288 4409 

CHEAP EATS 

The little garden café 

attached to the Lazy Dog Resort, 

Palomaria, serves fresh seafood 

in a tree-shaded section of 

Bulabog Beach. Balabag, www. 

lazydogboracay.com 

TOP TABLES 

The hefty servings of fruitinfused 

roast pork at Hawaiian 

Bar-B-Que are best enjoyed while 

seated at one of the restaurant’s 

beachfront tables. The Hawaiian 

babyback ribs are a must. White 

Beach Path, Station 1, tel: +63 

(0)36 260 2246 

LATE & LIVELY 

Exit Bar is a bit of a 

throwback, a cosy nook that 

retains the old-island feel that 

defi ned Boracay until the preppy 

new bars started taking over. 

Beers are cheap and are served 

in a laidback, conversationfriendly 

space. White Beach Path, 

Between Stations 1 and 2 

OVERNIGHT 

At the rock-bottom prices 

you pay for a room at Tan’s 

Guesthouse, you may feel you 

don’t deserve what you get: clean 

air-conditioned rooms with fl atscreen 

TVs and free Wi-Fi. Station 

2, Balabag, tel: +63 (0) 920 920 

2481, www.tghboracay.com 


Kochi 

INDIA 

INSIDER TIP 

The next few years will see the 

Kochi Metro Rail mega project 

add a fresh new dimension to 

this commercial city while easing 

traffi c congestion. 

SHOP TALK 

The latest Grand Shopping 

Festival takes place from 1 

December to 15 January. Dozens 

of shops offer special deals and 

discounts on garments, jewellery, 

accommodation and more. 

CHEAP EATS 

Step in to Masala for the 

best in hospitality. This multicuisine 

restaurant serves 

authentic Kerala dishes, 

teppanyaki and konjee. 

Chakkaraparambu Jcn, tel: 

+91 (0)484 419 9000 

TOP TABLES 

Multi-cuisine rooftop 

restaurant Mango Tree – owned 

by Dileep, Mollywood’s leading 

actor – serves hot fi sh tandoor 

tikkas (cutlets) and Tibetan 

momos (dumplings). Princess St, 

Fort Kochi 

LATE & LIVELY 

The Cochin Carnival at 

Fort Kochi, which runs from 

mid-December to the end of the 

year, features everything from 

folk dance performances and art 

displays to spectacular parade 

fl oats and sports competitions. 

OVERNIGHT 

A stunning ivory beauty, The 

WyteFort stands close to where 

the traffi c fl ows from Kochi 

towards neighbouring Allepey. 

Easy accessibility to sights within 

and outside the city and the most 

cutting-edge facilities make 

this a great base for exploring. 

Near Maradu Jcn, NH Bypass, 

tel: +91 (0)484 270 6952, www. 

thewytefort.com 


ILOILO: GRASYA BANGOY, JAKARTA: POPPY BARKAH, KALIBO: MICHAEL AQUINO, 

PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES, KOCHI: RESMI JAIMON

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92 


Kota Kinabalu 

MALAYSIA 

INSIDER TIP 

Held on 25 November this 

year, Borneo Bug Fest attracts 

Volkswagen enthusiasts from 

all corners of the island. Padang 

Merdeka, Jln Padang, tel: +60 

(0)14 703 1400 

SHOP TALK 

Held every week, the Sunday 

Market attracts both locals and 

tourists to Gaya Street to browse 

everything from crafted goods to 

local delicacies and souvenirs. 

CHEAP EATS 

To get a sense of what local 

Filipino and Indonesian cuisine 

is all about, visit the Filipino 

Night Market. Here, visitors can 

sample freshly grilled seafood 

and freshly harvested seaweed 

among other treats. Coastal area, 

Jln Tun Fuad Stephens 

TOP TABLES 

Spice fans should try the 

incomparable tom yum at local 

stalwart Kedai Kopi Seng Hing, 

which serves breakfast and 

lunch. For something less fi ery, 

try the Tuaran mee (fried egg 

noodles). Sinsuran Complex, tel: 

+60 (0)88 211594 

LATE & LIVELY 

Drink, eat and party like a 

local at Firefl y Bar and Grill, 

where between live band sets 

revellers groove to tunes spun 

by resident DJs. F-36-G, Blk 

F, KK Times Square, tel: +60 

(0)19 860 5607 

OVERNIGHT 

Take a trip back in time at the 

Jesselton Hotel to experience 

life as it was lived during the 

English colonial period. Steeped 

in history, this boutique-style 

inn is a local landmark. 69 Gaya 

St, tel: +60 (0)88 223333, www. 

jesseltonhotel-kotakinabalu. 

com 


Krabi 

THAILAND 

INSIDER TIP 

Though fl ights from Singapore 

arrive in the afternoon, don’t 

write off the day. Get in a holiday 

frame of mind as soon as you 

touch down by enjoying a stressbusting 

Thai massage. On the 

beach or at a spa, the choice is 

up to you. 

SHOP TALK 

Fed up with fake Ray-Bans? 

The real deal can be found at SK 

Optik, which stocks a huge range 

of designer shades and frames, 

with prescription lenses available. 

247/2 Moo 2, Ao Nang, tel: +66 

(0)7 563 7525 

CHEAP EATS 

The tiny Smiling Dog Café 

serves up tasty crêpes with 

non-traditional fi llings. Try Tex- 

Mex, Mango Passion or even go 

off-menu and design your own 

delicacy. 39/1 Moo 2, Ao Nang, 

tel: +66 (0)80 929 8297 

TOP TABLES 

Swanky new cocktail bar 

and eatery The Hilltop is 

perched above Ao Nang Bay. 

Sip martinis at the outdoor 

lounge ahead of a Thai feast. 

99 Moo 3, Ao Nang, tel: +66 

(0)7 563 7195 

LATE & LIVELY 

Catch American singersongwriter 

Jimmy Patrick Roche 

live at Phra Nang Inn Beach Bar 

to groove to a great mix of oldies 

and original songs. 25 Moo 2, 

Ao Nang Beach Rd, tel: +66 (0)7 

563 7130 

OVERNIGHT 

The peaceful, cliff-view villas 

at Ao Nang Phu Petra Resort 

make for a welcome retreat 

from the hustle and bustle of the 

beachfront. 521 Soi 11, Moo 2, 

Ao Nang, tel: +66 (0)7 562 6666, 

www.aonangphupetra.com 

Kuala Lumpur 

MALAYSIA 

INSIDER TIP 

Don’t miss Urbanscapes, 

Malaysia’s coolest arts festival, 

on 24-25 November. The event 

welcomes Sigur Rós along with 

top names from the fi elds of 

music, art, fashion and design. 

www.urbanscapes.com.my 

SHOP TALK 

Don’t be fooled by the 

unassuming façade, P Lal 

Store is a treasure trove 

of shoes from old-school 

brands like Barker, Loake 

and Cheany. 91 Jln Gasing, 

Petaling Jaya, www.plal.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Forty-year-old Lorong 

Seratus Tahun is a great place to 

tuck into a bowl of assam laksa, 

which CNNGo ranked among 

“foods worth travelling the world 

to gorge on.” Unit 10, The Scott 

Garden, 289 Jln Kelang Lama, 

http://lst.com.my 

TOP TABLES 

Marini’s on 57 is an Italian 

restaurant on the 57th fl oor of 

Petronas Tower 3. The setting is 

stunning and the food features 

fresh ingredients personally 

sourced by beloved chef Claudio. 

www.marinis57.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

A branch of the Singapore 

club chain, The Butter Factory 

is more mainstream than its 

southern counterpart but it 

still tends to attract the city’s 

beautiful people. 1 Jln Kia Peng, 

www.thebutterfactorykl.com 

OVERNIGHT 

Ten minutes away from major 

malls and a theme park, Saujana 

Hotel combines convenience 

with lush natural surrounds. 

Jln Lapangan Terbang, 

tel: +60 (0) 37 843 1234, 

www.thesaujanahotel.com 


Kuching 

MALAYSIA 

INSIDER TIP 

The Sarawak Cultural 

Village is the ideal place 

to familiarise yourself with 

the many ethnic groups, 

cultural practices and artistic 

creations that make Kuching 

so unique and vibrant. 

SHOP TALK 

Home to an eye-popping range 

of merchandise like handicrafts 

and souvenirs, Main Bazaar is 

the oldest venue of its kind in 

town. Jln Tunku Abdul Rahman 

CHEAP EATS 

Tantalise your taste buds 

at Aroma Café with the best 

Bidayuh delicacies, such as ayam 

pansoh (chicken in bamboo), 

tapioca leaves with tepus (ginger) 

and chicken with terung asam 

(eggplant). G/F, Sublot 126, Jln 

Tabuan, tel: +60 (0)82 417163 

TOP TABLES 

Ideal for a romantic dinner 

for two, Jambu Restaurant 

and Lounge is home to 

Western favourites like sirloin 

steak and Spanish tapas and 

has a wide-ranging drinks 

list. 32 Crookshank Rd, www. 

jamburestaurant.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Kuching’s most popular afterdark 

hangout, Backstage offers 

an eclectic mix of music that’ll 

keep your hips swaying into the 

wee hours. 80 Jln Wayang, tel: 

+60 (0)82 259450 

OVERNIGHT 

Brooke’s Terrace is an 

affordable accommodation 

in the heart of the city, close 

to restaurants, shopping and 

downtown attractions like the 

waterfront, Main Bazaar and 

Fort Margherita. 291 Jln Abell, 

tel: +60 (0)82 427008, www. 

brookesterrace.org 


KOTA KINABALU: MEI TZEU, PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES, 

KRABI: SEEMA PRABHU, KUALA LUMPUR: JENNIFER CHOO, KUCHING: CYRIL DASON

HARESH ENTERPRISES 

61 Kaki Bukit Ave 1, #03-12, 

Shun Li Industrial Park, 

Singapore 417943 

Tel: 62876454 Fax: 62876453 

E-mail: he123@singnet.com.sg 

HARESH ENTERPRISES SDN. BHD. 

No 47-2, Jalan Seri Utara 1, 

Sri Utara off Jalan Ipoh-Rawang, 

68100 Kuala Lumpur 

Tel: 603-6250 2021/603-6250 2022 

Fax: 603-6250 3023 

E-mail: he123@streamyx.com 

www.hareshenterprises.net

94 


Macau 

CHINA 

INSIDER TIP 

With thousands of books, 

magazines and images of old 

Macau, plus workshops and 

lectures, Macau Story House is 

a historical showplace. 6A Nova 

de S Lázaro, Fl R/C, Edf Seng Va, 

tel: +853 2835 3504 

SHOP TALK 

Meowspace is a cat-themed 

souvenir shop/animal charity 

featuring cat image-emblazoned 

T-shirts, bags, buttons and 

postcards. Shop G, G/F, 14 Edf 

Heng Tai, Calaçada da Paz, tel: 

+853 2893 2927 

CHEAP EATS 

For nearly half a century, 

punters have been coming to 

Sopa de Fitas Ving Kei to 

enjoy homemade tofu jelly with 

condensed milk, a smooth and 

tasty dessert. 47 Rua Da Tercena, 

tel: +853 2892 1152 

TOP TABLES 

Enjoy Paloma chef Hector 

Costa’s seafood paella, a 

mix of fresh local seafood 

and traditional Spanish 

ingredients. Pousada de São 

Tiago, Avenida de Republica, 

tel: +853 2855 6251 

LATE & LIVELY 

Choose from a long list of 

draught beers and mingle with 

local expats at the amiable and 

atmospheric Irish Bar. G/F, 

116C/116D Avenida de Kwong 

Tung, Taipa, tel: +853 6688 6975 

OVERNIGHT 

The ideal spot for shopping 

and sightseeing, Hotel Beverly 

Plaza is as conveniently located 

as it gets. Rooms are spacious 

and prices are eminently 

affordable considering it’s a 

four-star accommodation. 70-106 

Avenida do Dr Rodrigo Rodrigues, 

tel: +853 2878 2288 


Manila 

PHILIPPINES 

INSIDER TIP 

Get into the festive spirit by 

taking a seat by the Ayala Triangle 

Gardens for its Symphony of 

Lights and Sounds, held hourly 

from 6-9pm from 16 November to 

30 December. 

SHOP TALK 

Robinsons Magnolia 

Place is home to major 

brands and local favourites, 

a food court and the famed 

Ice Cream House. Cnr Aurora 

Blvd and Hemady St, New 

Manila, Quezon City 

CHEAP EATS 

Filipinos are a bold bunch 

when it comes to food. Try sisig 

(chopped pig’s cheeks), crispy 

tenga (deep-fried pig’s ears) and 

chicharon bulaklak (crispy pork 

intestines) at Jay-J’s Inasal. 

Ortigas Home Depot, Julio Vargas 

Ave, Ortigas Center, Pasig 

TOP TABLES 

Aside from offering the best 

cuts of meat in the city, Elbert’s 

Steak Room features attentive 

service, leather armchairs and 

a tucked-away location. 3/F, 

Sagittarius Bldg III, 111 HV de la 

Costa St, Salcedo Village, Makati, 

tel: +63 (0)2 519 8665 

LATE & LIVELY 

Sample one or more of 28 alloriginal 

cocktails such as Rocket 

Fuel (jalapeño pepper vodka) at 

the Rocket Room. G/F, Cnr 7th 

Ave and 30th St, Bonifacio High 

St Central, Taguig, tel: +63 (0)2 

621 3222 

OVERNIGHT 

The Marriott Hotel at Resorts 

World Manila is right across 

from the airport and within easy 

reach of a popular golf course. 

10 Newport Blvd, Newport City 

Complex, Pasay, tel: +63 (0)2 

988 9999 

Medan 

INDONESIA 

INSIDER TIP 

A visit to Medan offers the 

chance to check drinking a cup 

of kopi luwak or civet coffee off 

your bucket list. Sumatra is one of 

the world’s top producers of this 

exotic beverage and it’s widely 

available at local cafés. 

SHOP TALK 

A batik sarong makes a 

lightweight souvenir and can be 

bought for a song at Pasar Ikan 

Lima, a textile market in Kesawan 

Square on Jalan Ahmad Yani. 

CHEAP EATS 

Named for the Indonesian 

word for “fi sherman”, 

Restoran Nelayan is highly 

touted for its halal seafood 

dim sum. 8 Jln Putri Merak 

Jingaa, www.restorannelayan.com 

TOP TABLES 

A branch of the Bali original, 

Trattoria serves handmade 

pasta and authentic Italian thincrust 

pizza that’s arguably the 

best in Asia. Enjoy a generous 

bread basket and wines by the 

glass, too. 17 Jln Uskup Agung, 

www.trattoriaasia.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Get acquainted with the 

bustling local student scene 

on Jalan Dr Mansyur near the 

University of North Sumatra. 

Catering for those with late-night 

food cravings, the street is lined 

with hawker stalls, rumah makan 

(eating houses) and cafés. 

OVERNIGHT 

Hotel 61 is a fresh and sleek 

new addition to the Banda Aceh 

accommodation scene. Rooms 

are tastefully minimalist and the 

hotel is surprisingly serene given 

that it’s in the heart of the action 

downtown. 145 Jln Iskandar 

Muda, www.hotel61.co.id 


Padang 

INDONESIA 

NEW 

INSIDER TIP 

Named for West Sumatra's 

indigenous people, Minangkabau 

airport with its buffalo hornstyle 

spired roof was designed 

to emulate the look of a rumah 

gadang (traditional house). 

SHOP TALK 

For a taste of old-time 

Indonesia, pay a visit to Padang’s 

central market, or Pasar Raya, in 

the city centre to feast your eyes 

on brightly coloured Minang garb 

and handicrafts, and treat your 

taste buds to fresh fruit and oneof-a-kind 

local delicacies. 

CHEAP EATS 

Nasi Padang (steamed 

rice with various meats and 

vegetables) is the defi nitive 

local dish, typically eaten 

without cutlery and available 

at countless restaurants 

throughout the city. 

TOP TABLES 

Enjoy fresh, affordably priced 

seafood and eye-catching views 

over the water at Nelayan 

Restaurant, a local stalwart 

just steps from the beach that’s 

especially popular with visitors 

from overseas. Jln Samudra 

LATE & LIVELY 

Credit bargain-priced beer, 

a mix of local and Western fare 

and live music on weekends 

for the enduring popularity of 

bar-cum-coffee shop Fellas Café 

and Restaurant. 47 Jln Hayam 

Wuruk, tel: +62 (0)751 782 0988 

OVERNIGHT 

Newly opened and within 

easy reach of Purus Beach, the 

Muaro River and Chinatown, the 

Mercure Padang Hotel is the 

ideal choice for business and 

leisure travellers alike. 8 Jln Purus 

IV, tel: +62 (0)751 891188, www. 

mercurepadang.com 


MACAU: MING MING, MANILA: MABEL DAVID-PILAR, MEDAN: WENDY BONE, 

PADANG: JOHN STAFFORD, PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES

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96 


Penang 

MALAYSIA 

INSIDER TIP 

From 29 November to 

2 December, The Penang 

International Jazz Festival 

returns with mellow melodies by 

the beach. www.penangjazz.com 

SHOP TALK 

Shop for the ideal gift at 

Bon Ton the Shop, where 

homeware, fashion, food 

and books are sold. View 

art upstairs. 86 Armenian 

St, George Town, www. 

straitscollection.com.my 

CHEAP EATS 

Roast and barbecued pork 

are favourites at many Penang 

coffee shops. Arguably the fi nest 

versions are served at Kedai 

Kopi Sky Café. Rice and chilli 

sauce are the accompaniments. 

Sky Hotel, Chulia St, Off Jln 

Masjid, George Town 

TOP TABLES 

55 Café and Restaurant, 

renowned for its Mediterraneaninspired 

dishes, also serves pâté, 

salads, pasta and teriyaki salmon. 

Don’t miss the crème brûlée or 

hazelnut chocolate ganache. 

47-55 Lor Stewart, George Town, 

www.coffeeatelier.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Soju Room sets Penang’s 

tropical nights alight. Catch 

performances by Crush Crew 

Project and groove to DJ-spun 

tunes. Penang Times Square, B2 

Entertainment City, George Town, 

tel: +60 (0)12 556 5876 

OVERNIGHT 

For boutique style and 

comfort at affordable prices, 

fl ashpackers check in to Ryokan 

Hostel, where contemporary 

Japanese style meets pre-war 

heritage. 62 Jln Muntri, George 

Town, tel: +60 (0)4 250 0287, 

www.myryokan.com 


Phnom Penh 

CAMBODIA 

INSIDER TIP 

December’s week-long 

PhotoPhnomPenh festival 

takes the pulse of a medium 

that’s enjoying unprecedented 

popularity in Cambodia at the 

moment. 

SHOP TALK 

Shaded by towering tamarind 

trees and lined with boutique 

shops, art galleries and cafés, 

Street 240 is the capital’s 

epicentre of food, fashion and 

funk. Between Street 51 and 

Norodom Blvd 

CHEAP EATS 

True to the name, guests 

are treated to the good life at 

family-run restaurant La Dolce 

Vita. At less than $5 per dish, 

the offerings at this Italian/ 

Cambodian eatery let diners 

leave with bellies full and wallets 

largely undented. 36Eo Street 

172, tel: +855 (0)12 610065 

TOP TABLES 

Housed in a former 

colonial mansion, La 

Résidence is the place to 

indulge a love of classic and 

modern French food. 22-24 

Street 214, www.la-residencerestaurant.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

A stylish cocktail lounge that 

tends to attract a well-heeled 

clientele, Pontoon Bistro has 

DJs that keep the funk fl owing 

into the wee hours. 80 Street 172, 

tel: +855 (0)10 808173 

OVERNIGHT 

The former home of a Phnom 

Penh senator, The Governor’s 

House oozes colonial charm and 

exuberance, allowing visitors to 

enjoy a taste of the Old World. 

3 Mao Tse Tung, tel: +855 (0)23 

987024, www.governorshouse. 

com 

Phuket 

THAILAND 

INSIDER TIP 

On 1 December, scores of the 

world’s best yachties descend 

on Kata Beach for the week-long 

Phuket King’s Cup Regatta. 

www.kingscup.com 

SHOP TALK 

HI.SO. stocks eco- and 

wallet-friendly home décor items 

with an Asian aesthetic from 

international and local designers. 

Yaowarat Rd, tel: +66 (0)81 090 

3100, www.hi-so-phuket.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Dive into an authentic local 

food experience at Loktien 

Restaurant, on the corner of 

Yaowarat and Dibuk Roads, 

which serves satay and mee 

hoon baa chaang, a local stirfried 

noodle speciality. 

TOP TABLES 

Vegetables grown at 

Thanyapura’s own organic farm 

are a mainstay of the menu 

at Divine Restaurant, which 

specialises in healthy, fl avourpacked 

cuisine and biodynamic 

wines. Thepkasattri Rd, www. 

thanyapura.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

A laid-back haven of relaxation 

during the day Xana Beach 

Club is transformed into one of 

Phuket's most hip and happening 

bars after the sun goes down. 

Srisoonthorn Rd, tel: +66 (0)7 

632 4108 

OVERNIGHT 

Offering panoramic views 

over the bay, the 190-room 

Kalima Resort & Spa combines 

a contemporary design with 

fi rst-rate facilities for business 

and leisure travellers. There are 

also family-friendly services such 

as its Kids' Club. Prabaramee 

Rd, tel: +66 (0)76 358999, www. 

kalimaresort.com 



PHILIPPINES 

INSIDER TIP 

Stop by the Tourist 

Information Offi ce right 

outside the terminal to pick 

up a free city map. Tell one of 

the tricycle drivers outside 

your price range and he’ll help 

fi nd a suitable place to stay. 

SHOP TALK 

If you’re keen to explore the 

place where locals have been 

shopping for decades, visit the 

New City Commercial Center 

(NCCC), a haven of small-town 

charm in a fast-changing city. 

Lacao St, tel: +63 (0)48 253 1512 

CHEAP EATS 

Ima’s Gulay Bar is pretty 

much the only place in town for 

meat abstainers, offering a range 

of lovingly prepared vegetarian 

and vegan dishes at bargain 

prices. 46 Fernandez St, tel: +63 

(0)920 533 3210 

TOP TABLES 

Viet Ville, once a colony of 

Vietnamese refugees, is worth 

the half-hour drive to dine at Viet 

Ville Restaurant, which serves 

up what are arguably the nation’s 

most authentic Vietnamese 

dishes. North National Hwy, Brgy 

Sta Lourdes 

LATE & LIVELY 

Balinsasayaw serves no-frills 

Filipino food at budget prices, 

making it a great place for a 

late-night feed. Choose from 

the bustling Rizal St location or 

the quieter Manalo Extension 

branch. tel: +63 (0)48 434 5804 

OVERNIGHT 

For a convenient location, 

check out the House of Big 

Brother condotel near the 

airport. The amenities here are 

better than anything else in its 

price range. Manalo Ext, tel: +63 

(0)48 723 5088 


PENANG: DAVID BOWDEN, PHNOM PENH: CHARLIE LANCASTER, PHUKET: GREG LOWE, 

PUERTO PRINCESA: KRISTINE FONACIER, PHOTOGRAPHY: LESTER LEDESMA

98 


Shenzhen 

CHINA 

INSIDER TIP 

Save 50% on admission fees 

when you wait until after 6pm to 

enter the most famous theme 

parks in Shenzhen – China Folk 

Culture Village, Window of the 

World and Happy Valley. 

SHOP TALK 

Sinana Box Shop sells a 

wide range of handmade crafted 

goods, cool electronic devices 

and much more. Rm 203, East 

Tower, Hai’an Bldg, Wenxin 5 Rd, 

Nanshan District, tel: +86 (0)755 

8627 1125 

CHEAP EATS 

Popular Sichuan snacks 

like cool-blended noodles and 

marinated chips are served 

tapas-style at Xiao Can Mao 

or Hungry Cat. A2-51, Baoli 

Culture Pk, Nanshan District, 

tel: +86 (0)187 8459 6023 

TOP TABLES 

Using chicken raised on its 

own farm and tofu made daily onsite, 

Guobaotong serves simple 

and healthy home-style Hakka 

cuisine. 1/F, Bldg 3, Meishan 

Yuan, Xiameilin, Futian District, 

tel: +86 (0)755 8353 9268 

LATE & LIVELY 

Covering over 2,000m2 , M1 

Club is the largest party spot 

in Shenzhen, home to nightly 

non-stop shows and a cocktail 

list running the gamut from 

teh classics to one-of-a-kind 

concoctions. 3/F, Huaduyuan 

Bldg, Dongmen Nan Rd, tel: +86 

(0)755 8502 9777 

OVERNIGHT 

Beyond its budget prices and 

central location, City Inn offers 

eye-catching views of the local 

landscape from its higher fl oors. 

Ideal for camera fans. 2038 

Caitian Nan Rd, Futian District, 

tel: +86 (0)755 8346 0888 


Singapore 

INSIDER TIP 

The annual Christmas 

Light-Up on Orchard Road 

sees the full length of the 

city’s premier shopping street 

decked out in elaborate lights 

and decorations from 

17 November to 6 January. 

SHOP TALK 

Speciality kitchenware 

store Pantry Magic is where 

serious gourmands can pick 

up all manner of culinary tools, 

bakeware, cookbooks and food 

magazines. 44 Club St, www. 

pantry-magic.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Swing by Pho Stop, a café-bar 

serving Vietnamese bites and 

noodles along with beer and wine. 

It fi lls up quickly on weekends so 

book ahead. 21 Tanjong Pagar Rd, 

tel: +65 6221 4001 

TOP TABLES 

The latest from British chef 

Jason Atherton, Pollen is the only 

restaurant located in the climatecontrolled 

Flower Dome at the 

sprawling Gardens by the Bay. 

L01-09, Flower Dome, Gardens 

by the Bay, 18 Marina Gardens Dr, 

www.pollen.com.sg 

LATE & LIVELY 

1128 bar, named for the year 

when Belgium’s Grimbergen 

beer was created by the abbey’s 

monks, serves blanche, blonde 

and ambrée beers. B1-02, Tanglin 

Post Offi ce, 56 Tanglin Rd, www. 

imaginings.com.sg 

OVERNIGHT 

The Rendezvous Grand Hotel 

Singapore is within walking 

distance of Orchard Road. 

Take a dip in the Balinese-style 

pool and have a bite at Balzac 

French Brasserie. 9 Bras Basah 

Rd, tel: +65 6336 0220, www. 

rendezvoushotels.com 

Surabaya 

INDONESIA 

NEW 

INSIDER TIP 

Take in the sights of the city at 

night on a becak or tricycle. Start 

your ride at Tunjungan Plaza and 

head to Cheng Ho Mosque via 

Blauran and Balai Kota. 

SHOP TALK 

Just about everything can be 

had at Pasar Atom Surabaya, 

from gadgets, clothes, bags 

and souvenirs to jewellery and 

traditional snacks. Bargain for the 

best prices. 7A, Jln Stasiun Kota, 

www.pasaratom.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Visit Zangrandi Istana Es 

Krim, a popular Italian-style 

ice-cream store that’s been 

renowned since Dutch colonial 

times. Try any or all of the 

decadent vanilla Macedonia, tutti 

frutti or Zangrandi pie. 15 Jln Yos 

Sudarso, tel: +62 (0)31 534 5820 

TOP TABLES 

Arrive early to beat the crowds 

at Nasi Campur Tambak Bayan. 

Try the signature dish (rice with 

a range of side dishes) or go for 

the ayam semur (sweet and 

spicy chicken) or pork satay. 7 Jln 

Pasar Besar Wetan, tel: +62 (0)31 

534 2163 

LATE & LIVELY 

The party crowd gets its 

drink on and kicks up its heels 

to tunes spun by celebrated 

homegrown DJs at Ice Club 

Surabaya. Lenmark Mall, 

Bukit Dharmo Blvd, www. 

iceclubsurabaya.com 

OVERNIGHT 

Stay at the conveniently 

located Sheraton Hotel 

Tunjungan Plaza. Splash out 

or just window shop at the three 

huge malls adjoining the hotel. 

25-31 Jln Embong Malang, tel: 

+62 (0)31 546 8000, www. 

starwood hotels.com 


Tacloban 

PHILIPPINES 

INSIDER TIP 

Explore the Leyte Provincial 

Capitol Building late at night 

when its walls and frescoes are 

dramatically lighted. This building 

was the seat of the Philippine 

government for a brief period 

right after World War II. Cnr Sen 

Enage and Magsaysay Blvd 

SHOP TALK 

Before you hit the beach 

or take a city stroll, head to 

Tacloban Public Market to 

fi nd stalls selling low-priced 

wide-brimmed hats and fans 

made from local fi bres. Stay 

cool in style. Tarcela St 

CHEAP EATS 

For an exciting selection 

of seafood dishes and staple 

Filipino-Chinese fare, head to 

Ocho Seafood and Grill. Cnr 

Sen Enage and T Claudio St, tel: 

+63 (0)53 325 4171 

TOP TABLES 

Ayo Restaurant is owned by 

a professor of marine biology 

and his wife, who trained in the 

culinary arts in New Zealand and 

who travels around South-East 

Asia doing food research. 5 JCO 

Arcade, Apitong Rd, tel: +63 

(0)53 325 4461 

LATE & LIVELY 

Club 6500 is home to nine 

separate venues. Check out 

the Caribbean-inspired Bistro 

Caliente, which hosts live 

acoustic music jams almost every 

night. Grounds of Leyte Park 

Hotel, tel: +63 (0)917 321 5866 

OVERNIGHT 

A shelter for many local 

families and American soldiers 

during World War II, Hotel 

Alejandro in a renovated house is 

home to an interesting collection 

of war memorabilia. P Paterno St, 

tel: +63 (0)53 523 7873 


SHENZHEN: MAY GUAN, SINGAPORE: LEANNE CHEW, PHOTOGRAPHY: SINGAPORE TOURISM BOARD, 

SURABAYA: ADI KWOK, PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES, TACLOBAN: DARRYL JANE DELGADO, PHOTOGRAPHY: LESTER LEDESMA

100 


Taipei 

TAIWAN 

INSIDER TIP 

Taipei’s ever-expanding MRT 

makes getting around the city a 

breeze. Grab an EasyCard at any 

MRT station or convenience store 

and use it to ride the rails, pay 

the fare in selected taxis or settle 

your coffee bill at 7-Eleven. 

SHOP TALK 

Exotic fl owers, carved wood 

furniture, stalls fi lled with 

handcrafted jewellery and huge 

crowds are the defi ning features 

of Jianguo Holiday Flower and 

Jade Market. Weekends only. 

Cnr Jianguo S Rd and Xinyi Rd, 

tel: +886 (0)2 2720 8889 

CHEAP EATS 

Look on through glass as 

the chefs at Fu Hang Dou 

Jiang whip up traditional 

breakfast treats like youtiao 

(Chinese crullers). 108 

Zhongxiao E Rd, Sec 1, 

tel: +886 (0)2 2392 2175 

TOP TABLES 

Run by local celebrity Pauline 

Lan, Kiki Restaurant puts a 

contemporary twist on Sichuan 

dishes like mapuo doufu, famed 

for its spiciness. 28 Fuxing S Rd, 

Sec 1, www.kiki1991.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Indie and mainstream music 

fans alike rock the night away at 

Legacy Taipei. Housed in an old 

warehouse in the Huashan 1914 

Creative Park, it’s a favourite with 

the younger set. 1 Bade Rd, Sec 1, 

www.legacy.com.tw 

OVERNIGHT 

A quirky blend of Old World 

décor and modern amenities, the 

Grand Victoria Hotel is home 

to a rooftop pool overlooking 

the lush green hills of Neihu. 168 

Jingye 4th Rd, tel: +886 (0)2 

8502 0000, www.grandvictoria. 

com.tw 


Thiruvananthapuram 

INDIA 

INSIDER TIP 

One of the world’s leading 

literary events, The Hay 

Festival makes its annual 

visit to town from 8-10 

November. Watch out for 

surprise, high-profi le guests. 

www.hayfestival.com/kerala 

SHOP TALK 

Ladies, head to Square 

One Talents for hair and skin 

treatments, to buy hand-painted 

fabrics or to try some homemade 

pickles and jams. Near Raymond 

Showroom, MG Rd, Pattom, www. 

squareonetalents.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Kerala House is a rustic 

eatery catering for the city’s 

intelligentsia. Don’t miss the seer 

fi shhead curry, a local delicacy. 

Karimpanal Arcade, Statue Jcn, 

tel: +91 (0)471 247 6144 

TOP TABLES 

Visit The Vivanta by Taj 

to enjoy a romantic, candle-lit 

dinner in a private gazebo by the 

infi nity pool while gazing out over 

the moon-lit waters of Jasmine 

Bay. GV Raja Rd, Kovalam, www. 

vivantabytaj.com 

LATE & LIVELY 

Weekend nights come alive 

at The Leela, Kovalam Beach, 

where some of India’s top DJs 

spin ear-pleasing tunes. Things 

really heat up from 25-31 

December, as beach parties see 

off 2012 and ring in the New Year. 

www.theleela.com 

OVERNIGHT 

Stay at the Biverah Hotel and 

Suites, which is conveniently 

located in a quiet precinct of 

the city, close to the airport and 

within easy reach of major tourist 

attractions. Kumarapuram- 

Pattom Rd, tel: +91 (0)471 421 

1111, www.biverah.com 

Tiruchirappalli 

INDIA 

INSIDER TIP 

A key religious festival that 

falls on 23 December this year, 

Vaikunta Ekadasi is when the 

gate to the inner sanctum of 

Srirangam Temple is opened. 

Thousands gather to catch a 

glimpse of Lord Ranganathan. 

SHOP TALK 

To browse a fabulous 

collection of comfy cottons, 

ethnic jewellery and stylish 

home furnishings, visit 

Fabindia. Sri Krishna Enclave, 

75/E/3, Salai Rd, Thillai 

Nagar, www.fabindia.com 

CHEAP EATS 

The outdoor terrace at Sree 

Krishnas Garden Restaurant at 

the Hotel Mathura is a peaceful 

oasis in a busy part of town. Try 

the delicious South Indian buffet 

lunch. 1 Rockins Rd, Cantonment, 

www.hotelmathura.com 

TOP TABLES 

Of the many Chettinad-style 

restaurants in town, Kannappa is 

a long-time favourite. Drawcards 

include tasty versions of the spicy 

non-vegetarian dishes native to 

this part of South Tamil Nadu. 

73A Salai Rd, Thillai Nagar, tel: 

+91 (0)431 276 5806 

LATE & LIVELY 

As this city is an important 

pilgrimage centre, it has only 

a few nightspots. The Chola 

Bar is one of the more pleasant 

places to enjoy a drink. Ramyas 

Hotel, 13-D/2, Williams Rd, 

Cantonment, www.ramyas.com 

OVERNIGHT 

Conveniently located close to 

the central bus stand, the Breeze 

Residency is an upscale hotel 

offering tastefully furnished and 

comfy rooms. 3/14 McDonald’s 

Rd, tel: +91 (0)431 404 5333, 

www.breezeresidency.com 


The 

program 

that 

lets you 

book 

before 

everyone 

else, 

everytime! 

JOIN 

TODAY! 

www.tigerairways. 

com/stripes 


TAIPEI: MORGAN EVERETT, THIRUVANANTHAPURAM: VIJI KRISHNAN, TIRUCHIRAPPALLI: ISABEL PUTINJA

At PULLMAN KUCHING, 

we don’t do the selling, our features do. 

Pullman Kuching is nestled in the exciting city’s golden triangle & atop the hill of 

Jalan Mathies. With its concept ‘Check in. Chill out.’, the 389 guest rooms are 

capaciously complete with the latest technological in-room connectivity devices & 

other “PULLMAN ROOM” signature. The hotel boasts a total of 3,660sqm of 

meeting & event space with 9 comprehensive banquet & conferencing venues. 

Puzzle, Nu Er Hong, Déjà Vu, Liquid & Café Ch@t, are the hotel’s 5 stimulating 

restaurants & bars. Stay fit & relax at our exclusive Fit & Spa. With these elements, 

it will complete the needs of all business & leisure travelers. 

New attitude hotels for business travellers. 

www.accorhotels.com 

For further information and reservation, please contact us: 

+6 (0) 82-222 888 or visit www.pullmankuching.com

102 

touchdown ... AUSTRALIA 

Adelaide 


NEW 

INSIDER TIP 

Adelaide’s best-kept shopping 

secret is Bowerbird Bazaar, 

home to over 90 designers of 

exclusive, designer-driven art, 

jewellery and homewares. Held 

just a few times a year, the next 

event is 9-11 November. www. 

bowerbirdbazaar.com.au 

SHOP TALK 

Presence excites with 

eclectic, new and vintage 

independently produced goods 

that you won’t fi nd anywhere 

else in Adelaide. 1/175 King 

William Rd, Hyde Park, www. 

presenceonkw.com 

CHEAP EATS 

Bar 9 boasts single-origin 

beans roasted to order, 

onsite blending, a range of 

brewing methods and simple, 

seasonal eats. 96 Glen 

Osmond Rd, Parkside, www. 

bar9.com.au 

TOP TABLES 

In intimate, stylish surrounds, 

From Orient delivers generously 

sized Chinese dishes. Featuring 

a top-secret blend of chillis and 

peppers, seafood dish shui zhu 

is a revelation. 125-127 Pirie St, 

www.fromorient.com.au 

LATE & LIVELY 

Dedicated to house and disco, 

with sofas and Nintendos, Au 

Haus is the chilled-out alternative 

Friday night event at Distill 

Cocktail Bar. 286 Rundle St, 

www.distillhealth.com.au 

OVERNIGHT 

Family-owned and fullyequipped, 

Grand Chifl ey 

Adelaide is right downtown 

but clear of inner-city traffi c. 

Enjoy views of the city or the 

Adelaide Hills. 208 South Tce, 

tel: +61 (0)8 8223 2800, www. 

grandchifl eyhotels.com.au 

Brisbane 

INSIDER TIP 

Portside Wharf at Hamilton is 

a great foodie destination thanks 

to a superb collection of cafés, 

bars and restaurants. It’s outside 

the city, but is a short walk from 

the CityCat stop at Brett’s Wharf. 

SHOP TALK 

Local stalwart Blonde 

Venus thrives on its evercontemporary 

and original 

outlook on fashion for men 

and women. 707 Ann St, 

Fortitude Valley, www. 

blondevenus.com.au 

CHEAP EATS 

Not content with operating 

one of the city’s best delis, the 

folks behind Spring Hill Deli have 

opened Spring Hill Deli Café, 

ideal for breakfast, lunch or a 

snack. Shop 2, 537 Boundary St, 

Spring Hill, tel: +61 (0)7 3161 3031 

TOP TABLES 

The sushi at Sake is orders of 

magnitude above the everyday. 

Ask your server to match your 

meal with a selection from its 

sake list. 45 Eagle St, www. 

sakerestaurant.com.au 

LATE & LIVELY 

Tippler’s Tap is the latest 

addition to the speciality small 

bar ranks. Ten taps, an extensive 

bottled range and Chicagoinspired 

beer snacks make this 

a relaxed place for a brew. 22 

Masters St, Newstead, www. 

tipplerstap.com.au 

OVERNIGHT 

If you’re looking for a clean, 

modern room in a hotel with a 

great location and friendly staff, 

the boutique Diamant Hotel fi ts 

the bill. The rooms are compact 

but well-appointed and very 

comfortable. 52 Astor Tce, Spring 

Hill, tel: +61 (0)7 3009 3400, 

www.8hotels.com 

Cairns 

INSIDER TIP 

Far North Queensland’s 

fresh food and produce 

markets offer a chance to 

learn what’s delicious, locally 

grown and unique to the 

region. For a list of markets, 

visit www.cairns.com.au 

SHOP TALK 

Maurizo is not just another 

jewellery store. On display are 

exquisite, individual designs 

using a stunning array of stones 

and precious metals. Shop 2, Cnr 

Spence and Abbot Sts, tel: +61 

(0)7 4031 6838 

CHEAP EATS 

If a sizeable crumbed fi shcake 

and a salad drizzled with chilli, 

coconut and coriander dressing 

appeals, head to Café 88. 

The food’s healthy, fresh and 

affordable. 88 Woodward St, 

Edge Hill, tel: +61 (0)7 4032 5643 

TOP TABLES 

With its signature mieng 

kham – shrimp, roasted coconut, 

ginger, peanuts, chilli and fresh 

lime wrapped in a betel leaf – 

Iyara by Sakara proves it knows 

a thing or two about imaginative 

Thai cuisine. 91 The Esplanade, 

tel: +61 (0)7 4041 4748 

LATE & LIVELY 

As the name suggests, 

Society Bar is a place to see and 

be seen. Think celebrity DJs, 

punters dressed to impress and 

a pumping vibe. 15 Spence St, 

www.societybar.com.au 

OVERNIGHT 

Newly refurbished, QT Port 

Douglas is home to QT’s famous 

“dream beds”, 42-inch fl at-screen 

LCD TVs and eye-catching 

furnishings. 87-109 Port Douglas 

Rd, Port Douglas, tel: +61 (0)7 

4099 8900, www.qtportdouglas. 

com.au 


Gold Coast 

INSIDER TIP 

Gold Coast beaches can 

get pretty crowded during the 

long, hot Queensland summer 

but Tallebudgera and Bilinga 

beaches at the southern end of 

the coast can be relied upon to be 

less crowded but no less perfect. 

SHOP TALK 

The Gold Coast has been 

lifting its game with edgier 

fashion houses. Joy Hysteric is 

one of the new wave’s leaders, 

the fi rst to bring new collections 

to the coast. Shop 14, 24-26 

Queensland Ave, Broadbeach, 

www.thejoystores.com 

CHEAP EATS 

While its breakfasts are 

worth getting out of bed for, the 

Barefoot Barista warrants a visit 

at any time of day for its simple 

and healthy homestyle fare. Shop 

5, Palm Beach Ave 

TOP TABLES 

French style meets 

Mediterranean-infl uenced 

modern Australian food at 

Little Truffl e. Gold Coast 

Hwy and Bondi Ave, Mermaid 

Beach, www.littletruffl e.com. 

au 

LATE & LIVELY 

If it’s big beats you’re after, 

Platinum Nightclub attracts 

big-name DJs and keeps things 

pumping into the wee hours. 19 

Victoria Ave, Broadbeach, www. 

platinumnighclub.com.au 

OVERNIGHT 

Maldives Resort has 

everything you need when you’re 

not on the beach or taking in the 

sights. Though close to Surfers 

Paradise, the atmosphere at 

poolside is serene. Cnr Woodroffe 

Ave and Pacifi c St, Main Beach, 

tel: +61 (0)7 5557 7500, www. 

maldivesresort.com.au 


ADELAIDE: AMANDA MCINERNEY, PHOTOGRAPHY: SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM, BRISBANE: MATT KIRKEGAARD, PHOTOGRAPHY: TOURISM QUEENSLAND, 

CAIRNS: DAVID MANNING, PHOTOGRAPHY: TOURISM QUEENSLAND, GOLD COAST: MATT KIRKEGAARD, PHOTOGRAPHY: TOURISM QUEENSLAND

10.30am - 10.00pm 

19 Upper Dickson Road 

Singapore, 207478 

Tel +65 6396 7769 

www.gokulvegetarian 

restaurant.com

from 

$99 

per person 

conditions 

apply 

Hotel Transfers Package Tours Design your own flight! 

escape discover indulge 

Wineglass Bay Port Arthur 

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See Tasmania from the AIR and the WATER – all in the one adventure! 

Step off Hobart waterfront onto our adventure seaplane then sit 

back, relax and enjoy the adventure of a lifetime! 

1300 FLY TAA 

1300 359 822 

www.tasmanianairadventures.com.au 

located at 

Kings Pier Marina 

Hobart Waterfront

HOBART: TANIA HORNE, PHOTOGRAPHY: TOURISM HOBART, MELBOURNE: CHRIS CANTY, PHOTOGRAPHY: VISIONS OF VICTORIA, 

PERTH: RON CRITTALL, PHOTOGRAPHY: TOURISM WESTERN AUSTRALIA, SYDNEY: ZINA ZHANG, PHOTOGRAPHY: TOURISM NEW SOUTH WALES 


Hobart 

NEW 

INSIDER TIP 

Dedicated foodies should 

look up Herbaceous Tours 

to discover Hobart’s hidden 

speciality grocers, learn secret 

recipes and fi nd the ingredients 

needed to make superb dishes. 

www.herbaceoustours.com.au 

SHOP TALK 

Savvy shoppers looking 

for unique, hand-made items 

frequent a monthly event known 

as The Market. Upcoming events 

are slated for 4 November and 

8-9 December. 3 Sandy Bay Rd, 

www.themarkethobart.com.au 

CHEAP EATS 

Dine upstairs at Harbour 

Lights Café and take in the 

sights of the waterfront while 

enjoying favourites like scallop 

pie and the quirky salmon caesar 

salad. 29 Morrison St, www. 

harbourlightscafe.com.au 

TOP TABLES 

A short drive from the CBD is 

Signal Station Brasserie, which 

offers panoramic views, casual 

but elegant dining, and fi rst-class 

coffee and cakes. 700 Nelson Rd, 

Mt Nelson, www.thestationcafe. 

com.au 

LATE & LIVELY 

On Friday evenings, Lark 

Distillery is transformed 

from a whisky bar into a 

funky venue for the bluegrass 

stylings of house band Coyote 

Serenade. 14 Davey St, www. 

larkdistillery.com.au 

OVERNIGHT 

Boasting a stunning riverfront 

location, Wrest Point is home to 

fi ve restaurants, six bars and a 

casino, and is just minutes from 

the CBD and Salamanca Place. 

410 Sandy Bay Rd, Sandy Bay, 

tel: +61 (0)3 6225 7091, www. 

wrestpoint.com.au 

Melbourne 

INSIDER TIP 

When the mercury rises, locals 

in search of quality waves head to 

the seaside town of Torquay, 90 

minutes away on the Surf Coast. 

SHOP TALK 

Built in 1891, the Block 

Arcade is a Melbourne icon, 

showcasing a range of quality 

shops and eateries, not to 

mention historically signifi cant 

architecture. 282 Collins St, www. 

theblockarcade.com.au 

CHEAP EATS 

With the city’s large Greek 

population, Melburnians are 

spoiled when it comes to Greek 

food. New on the scene is 

Spitiko, home to the best lamb 

gyros going. 270 Park St, South 

Melbourne, http://spitiko.com.au 

TOP TABLES 

Melbourne’s newest 

laneway restaurant, 

Señoritas offers authentic 

Mexican street food from 

regions such as Oaxaca and 

Yucatan. 16 Meyers Pl, www. 

senoritas.com.au 

LATE & LIVELY 

Diffi cult to fi nd but a treat 

when you do, this newly opened 

outdoor bar is all about craft 

beers and tasty burgers. When 

the resident DJs start to spin, 

tables at Badger vs. Hawk are 

moved to the side and a dance 

fl oor beckons. 333 La Trobe St, 

tel: +61 (0)466 699900 

OVERNIGHT 

The real highlight of the 

Stamford Plaza is its laneway 

location, a short stroll from 

myriad bars and boutique 

clothing shops. Rooms are 

spacious and the service is 

excellent. 111 Little Collins St, 

tel: +61 (0)3 9659 1000, www. 

stamford.com.au 


Perth 

INSIDER TIP 

Perth Arena marks its 

opening on 10 November with 

an Elton John spectacular, 

followed a day later by Matchbox 

Twenty and later in the week by 

Nickelback. Wellington St, www. 

pertharena.com.au 

SHOP TALK 

Perth fashion queen Ruth 

Tarvydas’s shop on King 

Street, the city’s top retail 

precinct, showcases the sexy 

and stylish creations that 

are her trademark. www. 

ruthtarvydas.com 

CHEAP EATS 

If you love burgers with fi rstrate 

toppings, Jus Burgers is 

for you. It was voted WA’s best 

burger for the third year running 

at Foxtel’s “I Love Food” Awards. 

http://jusburgers.com.au 

TOP TABLES 

Scott O’Sullivan is named as 

Perth’s Chef of the Year in the 

2013 Good Food Guide, a ringing 

endorsement of Red Cabbage. 

15 Labouchere Rd, South Perth, 

http://redcabbagefoodandwine. 

com.au 

LATE & LIVELY 

Perth’s biggest nightclub, 

Metro City is always heaving 

on Saturday nights thanks to 

DJs and a stage show. It hosts 

visiting acts on other nights. 

146 Roe St, Northbridge, www. 

metroconcertclub.com 

OVERNIGHT 

Sullivan’s Hotel is an 

intimate, family-owned inn just 

outside of town, just below Kings 

Park and close to the Swan River. 

Rooms are spacious, with simple 

furnishings. Use of bikes is free. 

166 Mounts Bay Rd, tel: +61 (0)8 

9321 8022, www.sullivans.com. 

au 

AUSTRALIA ... touchdown 

Sydney 

INSIDER TIP 

Do your research and book 

yourself into one of the many 

New Year’s Eve parties 

happening around town. Top 

picks include the Ivy, Opera Bar 

and Marquee. 

SHOP TALK 

Find the offerings of all the 

best Australian designers in one 

place at the Strand Arcade, just 

off Pitt Street Mall. Trawl through 

the boutiques here and admire 

the grand Victorian architecture. 

412-414 George St, www. 

strandarcade.com.au 

CHEAP EATS 

Indulge your sweet tooth 

at Flour & Stone, a delightful 

little bakery famous for its 

panna cotta lamingtons and 

hand-iced gingerbread. 53 

Riley St, Woolloomooloo, 

www.fl ourandstone.com.au 

TOP TABLES 

The latest offering from 

celebrated Sydney chef Dan 

Hong, Mr Wong has a sepiatoned 

interior that sets the scene 

for a well-orchestrated menu 

of seafood, roasted meats and 

dim sum. 3 Bridge Ln, http:// 

merivale.com.au/mrwong 

LATE & LIVELY 

The latest small bar on the 

York Street strip is Uncle Ming’s, 

a 1920’s Shanghai-inspired 

speakeasy touting Asian-themed 

beers, spirits and cocktails. 55 

York St, www.unclemings.com.au 

OVERNIGHT 

QT Sydney is the city’s newest 

designer hotel, home to an 

eclectic mix of artefacts, bespoke 

furniture and art. Enjoy luxurious 

bedding, walk-in showers and 

oversized tubs. 49 Market St, 

tel: +61 (0)2 8262 0000, www. 

qtsydney.com.au 


105

106 

TIGER NEWS 

Sugar Capital Returns 

to Australia Route Map 

iger has improved access 

to one of Australia’s 

T most alluring regions by 

increasing its services to 

tropical North Queensland. 

Due to popular demand, the airline 

launches direct services to Mackay 

from both Melbourne and Sydney in 

mid-December. 

Known as Australia’s sugar capital 

due to its thriving sugarcane industry, 

Mackay is also a gateway to the 

wondrous Whitsunday Islands, which 

are a major draw for Australian and 

foreign travellers alike. 

More good news for North 

Queensland comes in the form of 

Tiger’s confi rmation of plans to 

extend daily return services between 

Melbourne and Cairns to year round. 


Daily return fl ights will operate from 

mid-December until the end of January 

next year. The frequency will revert to 

a four-times weekly return service in 

February and March before the daily 

return service resumes in April. 

“We’ve had a tremendous response 

from all around Australia on our online 

voting poll, which has been running 

for the past fi ve weeks,” says Tiger 

Airways Australia CEO Andrew David. 

“The most overwhelming demand 

has been for Tiger’s return to Mackay, 

currently in the top spot as the most 

voted-for destination. As an airline 

that evolves based on demand, we’re 

thrilled to be confi rming our return 

to the region with four weekly return 

services providing over 1,400 seats 

weekly through Mackay airport.” 

Tiger Australia Hits 

Nine-Millionth 

Passenger Milestone 

Tiger Airways 

Australia 

hit another 

landmark 

when it 

fl ew its nine 

millionth 

passenger earlier this month. 

The individual in question, Gold Coast 

resident Robbie Sheriff, was the recipient 

of a A$900 voucher to travel with Tiger. 

He was presented with the voucher upon 

touching down in the Gold Coast on a fl ight 

from Melbourne. 

The voucher will come in handy for 

Sheriff, who travels frequently to visit his 

son. “I’ve never won anything like this before 

and now I can get back to Melbourne to see 

my son more often,” he says. Sheriff has 

fl own with Tiger Airways a number of times 

and is a big fan. He says: “The service is 

good and you can’t beat the price.” 

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM MACKAY

For the month of Nov and Dec, Tiger Airways 

passengers will enjoy 20% off* all room rates 

when they make reservation with us via our 

website directly at www.g4station.com 

FREE Breakfast – Free fl ow of Coffee/Tea, Toast with Kaya/Jams, Cookies 

and Fruits • 24hr Internet/ WI-FI enable bed • Movies screening/DVD 

player usage • Nintendo WII & TV usage • Daily Local Papers for viewing • Magazine/ 

Books for exchange • Luggage storage after check out • Pantry Usage on Every Floor • 

24hr Hot/Cold Showers with in-house shower gel 

11 Mackenzie Road Singapore 228675 

Tel: +65 6334 5644 Fax: +65 6334 6144 

Email: info@g4station.com 

*Present air ticket stub upon check in to be entitled for this promotion.

Resorts and Spas in Krabi’s best locations 

 

Resorts and Spas in Krabi’s best locations. 

Here, everyday is a vacation! 

 

 

 

www.vacationvillage.co.th 

PRODUCE YOUR 

TIGER AIRWAYS OR 

MANDALA BOARDING PASS 

AND ENJOY 

50% OFF 

REGULAR WEEKDAYS HOURLY 

SKI PASSES 

Satisfy your 

adrenaline rush 

THROUGH CABLE SKIING AND WAKEBOARDING 

*TERMS AND CONDITIONS: 

• Present your Tiger airway or mandala boarding pass before 

payment to enjoy the privileges. 

• Participants must be at least 7 years old and above 1.2 

metres height. 

• All participants must be a swimmer. 

• Not valid with other discounts and promotions. 

• The management reserves the rights to restrict entry due to 

overcrowding, or close the park for special events or functions. 

• Strictly non-refundable, in the case of inclement weather or 

cable breakdown, complimentary pass will be issued for the 

balance value. 

• Discount value not exchangeable for cash. 

• Discounts and promotions are strictly for Tiger airway and 

mandala passengers only. Other Ski360degree standard 

terms and conditions apply. 

• Valid till 31st January 2013. 

• Strictly for fi rst time ski360degree customer only. 

1206A East Coast Parkway Singapore 449891 | Hotlines: +65-64427318 (Cableski) 

www.ski360degree.com

Tiger Spreads a Little App-iness 

Travelling with Tiger Airways has 

become even easier with the launch of 

the airline’s brand-new Tiger app for 

Android, iPhone and iPad platforms. 

The native app allows customers to 

search for the best fl ight deals, book 

tickets, select seats and store their 

personal information for future use, all 

through their mobile device. 

The Tiger app fi rst appeared on 

the various mobile platforms in July 

and had been downloaded more than 

100,000 times even before its offi cial 

launch in October. 

The app’s key features include: 

FLIGHT BOOKING – the “Book 

Tiger and Scoot Join 

Forces on Itineraries 

Tiger Airways Singapore and Scoot 

signed a Memorandum of Understanding 

last month towards deep and wideranging 

cooperation. 

The initial phase of their partnership 

will see each carrier marketing joint 

itineraries between Phuket, Ho Chi Minh 

City and Kuala Lumpur, destinations 

served by Tiger from Singapore; and 

Sydney and Gold Coast, which are 

served by Scoot. 

Flights” option allows customers to 

navigate back and forth to any step 

in the booking process, and access 

fl ight information and updated fee 

breakdowns as and when new services 

are added. 

FLIGHT DEALS – the “Deals” option 

lists Tiger Airways’ best deals across 

all destinations, and can be sorted 

by price, date, and departure and 

destination cities. 

PERSONAL FLIGHT INFORMATION 

– the “My Flights” option allows 

customers to securely store and easily 

retrieve all fl ight information booked 

through the app or online, simply by 

Customers may purchase a single 

itinerary for travel from Australia, via 

Singapore, to Tiger’s destinations. 

“With Tiger’s move to our new den at 

Changi Airport Terminal 2, it’s the perfect 

time to leverage the strength of our 

networks to our customers’ benefi t,” says 

Tiger Airways Group CEO Koay Peng Yen. 

“Tiger Singapore operates up to 90 fl ights 

daily. The joint itineraries and new services 

that we will be rolling out will greatly expand 

the travel options for both Tiger and Scoot 

customers.” 

TIGER NEWS 

entering the booking reference number, 

fi rst name and last name on the “My 

Flights” page. 

PERSONAL PROFILE – this feature 

allows customers to securely store 

their personal information, including 

passport details, contact number, email 

address and mailing address, which can 

be retrieved at any time to speed up 

subsequent bookings. 

Tiger plans to add new features to 

the app, including multiple language 

options, offl ine payment modes, fl ight 

status updates and mobile check-in. 

The Tiger app for Blackberry comes out 

later this year. 

In the initial trial, customers can 

purchase fl ight itineraries originating in 

Australia to popular South-East Asian 

destinations. 

They’ll be issued a single ticket 

containing all fl ight details. Passengers 

will be entitled to a 15kg check-in 

baggage allowance on the interline 

itinerary. 

Upon arrival in Singapore, customers 

will have to pass through immigration 

and collect their bags before checking in 

for the second leg of their journey. 


109

110 

TIGER TIPS 

Do’s & Don’ts 

We all dread that inconsiderate 

passenger who does things to make a 

fl ight unpleasant for everyone else. Here 

are six things to consider when fl ying: 

BE ON TIME 

1 Our check-in counters open 2 

hours before and close strictly 

45 minutes before departure. Check in 

early: if you’re on time, we are too! 

DON’T SMOKE 

2 Smoking harms your health. 

Moreover, smokers who light up 

in the lavatories endanger the aircraft and 

fellow passengers. Tiger Airways enforces 

a strict no-smoking policy. 

LIMIT YOUR LIQUIDS 

3 You can carry up to a litre of 

fl uids in your carry-on luggage. 

Containers are limited to 100ml. All liquids 

must be in a clear, resealable plastic bag. 

One bag per person. 

BELT UP 

4 Here’s a question for 

passengers who unbuckle their 

seat belts and stand up the instant the 

plane lands: Where do you think you’re 

going? There is a good reason why we ask 

you to remain seated – the plane is still 

moving and passengers who are not 

safely belted in risk injuries to themselves 

and others. 

DON’T BRING YOUR OWN 

5 FOOD 

Particularly if it’s chicken rice, 

chilli or durian puffs, whose pungent 

smells may remain in our aircraft and 

offend other passengers. Tiger Airways 

does not allow passengers to bring food 

onboard. We offer a wide range of snacks 

and drinks at very reasonable prices. 

TAKE CARE OF YOUR 

6 BELONGINGS 

Take care of your personal 

possessions during the fl ight. Before you 

disembark, be sure to check that you 

haven’t left anything on your seat or in 

the seatback pocket. 


Departure Hall 

Changi Airport Terminal 2 

New Tiger Den Heralds 

a Host of New Services 

Tiger Airways’ move to Changi Airport Terminal 2 has been a popular one with 

customers and it coincided with the launch of a slew of new products. These 

include Tiger Plus. This add-on premium service, which can be purchased for 

S$48, features privileges such as access to a dedicated check-in counter and 

a premium passenger lounge, and priority boarding. Other innovations include 

TigerShop Online, Online Tigerbites and an app for Android, iPhone and iPad 

that allows customers to book tickets, select seats and search for fl ight deals. 

DVT: How To Avoid It 

A deep-vein thrombosis (DVT) is a 

blood clot that develops in a deep 

vein, usually in the lower leg. DVT is a 

serious problem that can cause pain 

and lead to serious complications if 

a large clot partially or totally blocks 

blood fl ow. The incidence of DVT due 

to long fl ights is not high, but it can 

be reduced even further by doing the 

following: 

1 Exercise your legs every half hour. 

Bend and straighten your legs to keep 

the blood circulating. Walk up and down 

the aisle. 

2 Keep hydrated by drinking water (at 

least one glass an hour) rather than 

alcohol and caffeinated drinks. 

3 Exercise your chest and upper 

body frequently. Do deep-breathing 

exercises. 

4 Wear loose-fi tting clothing. 

5 Exercise the muscles of your lower 

legs while sitting. Pull your toes 

towards your knees and then relax, or 

press the balls of your feet down while 

raising your heels. 

6 Avoid sleeping pills because they 

cause you to be immobile for a long 

period. If you develop swelling or 

pain in your leg, or have breathing 

problems after travelling, you should 

seek medical advice urgently. 

PHOTOGRAPHY: CHANGI AIRPORT

112 

snapshot 


Extended 

Thai Lights 

Loi Krathong, the annual festival of lights, is one of the 

most spectacular of all Thai celebrations. Taking place 

on the night of the full moon in November, the festival 

is an enchanting event. Night skies everywhere 

from Bangkok to Phuket, Krabi and Hat Yai become 

illuminated as glowing lanterns are fl oated into the air.

MK1663 

Your boarding pass 

holds the key. 

Need a rental car when you land? Your Tiger Airways boarding 

pass holds the key to an exclusive saving with Europcar. 

Simply present your boarding pass and quote promotional code 

51162293 at the Europcar counter when you land to receive 

10% off the best rate of the day*. Europcar is conveniently 

located at all Australian airports and we operate one of the 

youngest, safest and greenest rental fleets in Australia. 

europcar.com.au 

*Offer and vehicles subject to availability. Valid at all locations across Australia for rental pick ups until 

15 December 2012. Europcar standard age, credit card and driver requirements apply. Cannot be used 

in conjunction with any other offer. 10% off applies to the base price of the rental only. Valid for all 

passenger vehicle classes. Damage protection is subject to standard liability fee and optional waiver 

costs. Taxes, surcharges, premium location surcharge if applicable, additional driver fee, optional 

damage liability/coverage and refueling fees are extra and GST on these charges applies. 

10% 

OFF *

AVIS HAVE THE LOCATIONS, 

GREAT RATES AND 

SERVICE YOU NEED 

INDIA 

SRI LANKA 

THAILAND 

Wherever you go throughout Asia Pacific you can always rely on Avis for 

great rates and great service. 

Go to the Avis counter on arrival. 

MALAYSIA 

INDONESIA 

VIETNAM 

SINGAPORE 

CHINA 

PHILIPPINES 

AUSTRALIA

november-2012

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