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hot spot<br />

political centre of Japan. While<br />

most tourists come to marvel at<br />

the towering big Buddha statue,<br />

there’s also a lively surf scene with<br />

a laid-back, Californian-style vibe.<br />

The neighbouring Enoshima<br />

beaches boast rolling swells,<br />

long-boarders, beach bars and<br />

summer-long parties with DJs and<br />

sun-tanned Tokyoites dancing<br />

to dub and house music in board<br />

shorts and bikinis on the sand.<br />

Even if you come unprepared,<br />

Shonan has many surf rental<br />

shops, as well as surf schools such<br />

as Shonan Surfin School and Easy<br />

Surf School for the uninitiated.<br />

Veteran surfers like Ry Beville,<br />

a Yokohama-based editor and<br />

photographer, says that the best —<br />

or for him, the only — time to surf<br />

in Shonan is during a typhoon<br />

or storm swell, when there are<br />

overhead breaks and even tubes.<br />

“The amateurs stay out of the<br />

water then, and it’s good surfing,”<br />

he tells me. “I sometimes go just<br />

a town over, to Zushi, where the<br />

break off the cape is nice, it tends<br />

to be fairly empty.”<br />

044<br />

Take me TheRe<br />

FuJi Rock FesTiVal<br />

fujirockfestival.com<br />

sonan suRFin school<br />

shonan-surfinschool.jp<br />

ukai ToRiyama<br />

3426 minamiasakawa,<br />

hachioji, Tokyo,<br />

tel: +81 (042) 661 0739<br />

yakuo-in Temple<br />

2177 Takao-machi,<br />

hachioji city, Tokyo,<br />

tel: +81 (042) 661 1115<br />

Jetstar has great low fares<br />

to Tokyo. Visit Jetstar.com<br />

to book.<br />

LEFT/RIGHT: The<br />

Niigata hillside<br />

turns into a<br />

village of tents;<br />

the crowd is fun<br />

and friendly<br />

Rock 'til you dRop<br />

If partying, rather than beaching, is your style, Fuji<br />

Rock Festival (27–29 July) is the ultimate summer<br />

festival, featuring over 200 musicians over a three-day<br />

period and attracting over 100,000 people. This year’s<br />

headliners are the acclaimed British bands Radiohead<br />

and The Stone Roses, although the line-up typically<br />

includes both international and Japanese acts.<br />

The festival takes over a ski field in Niigata<br />

prefecture, north of Tokyo. It’s here that the hillside<br />

turns into a village of tents. However, this is no<br />

Glastonbury — many of the tents on display are<br />

high-tech affairs, decked out with mod-cons such as<br />

portable kitchens. There are over 10 stages, as well as<br />

side attractions such as teepees for drummers, and<br />

the festival is surprisingly family-friendly — a kid’s<br />

area has rides for the young ones.<br />

Niigata prefecture is also rich with its own local<br />

festivals such as the Gion Kashiwazaki festival, from<br />

24–26 July, where you can enjoy folk dancing and a<br />

fireworks display. This year is also the 25th anniversary<br />

of the Earth Celebration, an explosive three-day kodo<br />

taiko drum festival held from 17–19 July on the island<br />

of Sado, 50km north of Niigata. While the Echigo-<br />

Tsumari Triennial is a highly regarded art fair which<br />

starts on 29 July and runs for 51 days. Hundreds of<br />

artworks and installations from local and international<br />

artists are exhibited across 200 villages.<br />

fuji rock festival: TokyoFashion.com

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