july-2012

explore! 

summer breaks 

from tokyo 

New South Wales’ 

best snow fun 

the whale 

sharks off Wa 

Cooking up 

Thailand’s cuisine 

Back on top of the 

charts and ready to tour 

p32 

events /// profiles /// food /// drinks /// places /// style 

10 

Minutes 

with... 

Graeme 

murphy 

On making 

Aida come 

alive 

p10 

the 

temper 

trap

FrOM tOP: tokyoFashion.CoM; Perisher; Putu sayoga 

40 

Rock out in 

Japan’s mountains 

67 

Bali’s race 

to glory 

56 

Have a snow ball 

on New South 

Wales’ snowfields 

CONTENTS 

juLY 2012 

take off 

002 welcome note 

005 events 

010 10 minutes with... 

director graeme Murphy 

012 out & about dining and 

drinking this July 

019 dawn ’til dusk feasting 

fun in far north Japan 

020 style file beautiful boots 

022 the biz Paklite’s bags 

of style 

024 wellbeing fighting fit 

026 5 ways sydney’s own 

olympic showdown 

028 fit to go sports events 

to move you in noosa 

107 brain teasers 

in the air 

with jetstar 

117 jetstar news 

118 starkids 

120 where we fly 

122 international 

adventures 

136 australian adventures 

138 domestic airports 

139 wellbeing onboard 

140 ジェットスター・エアウエイ 

ズの日本語インフォメーション 

143 have a bite 

Cover 

Photo: 

EMMA 

PHILLIPS 

- LIzArd 

MAnAgEMEnt 

cruise 

control 

32 star struCk 

as the temper trap returns to 

the charts, we cover the bumpy 

road to rock ‘n’roll glory 

40 hot sPot 

Make a break for it and enjoy 

tokyo's best summer escapes 

47 48 hours 

our guide to a weekend of 

adventure and nightlife action 

in auckland 

56 adrenaline 

our new south Wales snow 

report for families 

67 in FoCus 

Where the bulls are running 

in Bali 

74 indulge 

into the deep with Western 

australia’s whale sharks, 

wobbegongs and gropers 

83 huB 

how to meet the local 

custodians of darwin’s rich 

indigenous heritage 

92 PeoPle 

out in the field with 

ex-batsman Matthew hayden 

100 eat Beat 

Cooking up a storm at three 

classes in the thai kingdom 

日本語でお楽しみください 

001

MAGAZINE 

EDITORIAL 

juLy 2012 

Editor 

Rachel Farnay Jacques 

dEputy Editor 

Anne Loh 

assistant Editor 

Zuhara Yusoff 

art dirEctor 

Lauren So 

sEnior pHoto Editor 

Nicola McCoy 

sub-Editor 

Heather Millar 

JapanEsE EditoriaL consuLtant 

Yoshino Kyoko 

JEtstar ManaGinG Editor 

Ingrid Nason 

EditoriaL dirEctor (sinGaporE) 

Liz Weselby 

dEsiGn dirEctor (sinGaporE) 

Peter Stephens 

assoc. dEsiGn dirEctor (sinGaporE) 

Terence Goh 

Welcome 

Note 

Welcome aboard. 

I'm delighted to introduce myself to you as the 

new Group CEO of Jetstar. 

Jetstar is a great success story about a good idea that 

has grown into one of the world's leading leisure airlines. My 

focus will be making sure we continue to work hard for you, 

our customers, to deliver the best low-cost travel experience 

we can. 

A big part of this is flying to a great range of destinations. 

In Australia, we're boosting the number of flights to major 

cities like Sydney and to great holiday spots like the Gold 

Coast. In Asia, we've just launched Jetstar Japan with low fares 

between Tokyo, Osaka, Okinawa, Fukuoka and Sapporo. 

There are now more than 60 places you can fly to with Jetstar, 

and counting. 

Jetstar's mission — to offer all day, everyday low fares 

to enable more people to fly to more places, more often — 

means a lot to me. I've always loved to travel and consider 

it one of life's great pleasures. Travel has, for too long, been 

002 

ADVERTISING 

Group pubLisHEr 

Michelle Kavanagh 

associatE pubLisHEr 

Niky Sakhrani 

contributinG associatE pubLisHEr 

Eveline Satyadi 

inFLiGHt MEdia spEciaLists 

Jenny Penas, Stephanie Watts, 

Ben DeRegt, Chayada Jumrean 

intErnationaL pubLisHEr 

Jacqueline Ho 

Group production ManaGEr asia 

Serene Wong 

production ManaGEr 

Sandy Fong 

production ExEcutiVE 

Juri Kobayashi 

ManaGinG dirEctor 

Gerry Ricketts 

cEo 

Jeffrey O'Rourke 

pubLisHinG dirEctor 

Simon Leslie 

ExEcutiVE crEatiVE dirEctor 

Michael Keating 

out of reach for many people. Jetstar is proud to help bring 

you to your family, friends and life's adventures — without 

breaking your budget. 

Growing up in the United States, I had a huge domestic 

network at my fingertips that I often took advantage of 

particularly to the Rocky Mountains for skiing, mountain 

biking and hiking. Now, with a young family, my priorities 

are fun and accessible holiday adventures. Jetstar offers a 

great range of options and our next stop on the network will 

be Vietnam. 

I'm sure we'll keep finding fantastic new Jetstar 

destinations to enjoy and I hope you do too. 

Thanks for choosing to fly with us, 

Jayne Hrdlicka 

Group cEo, Jetstar airways 

For reservations, call Jetstar airways on: 

austraLia 131 538 

nEw ZEaLand 0800 800 995 

Japan +800 4008 3900 (place your telephone 

carrier’s access code before this number) 

tHaiLand +66 2267 5125 

usa 1866 397 8170 

ViEtnaM +84 8910 5375 

web: www.jetstar.com 

JEtstar MaGaZinE is published for Jetstar Airways by 

Ink, 89 Neil Road #03-01 Singapore 088849, tel: +65 

6324 2386, fax: +65 6491 5261. 

australia Free call: 1800 202 901 Advertising: jetstar. 

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Every care has been taken in compiling the contents of this 

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arising therefrom. The views expressed in this magazine are not 

necessarily those of the publisher or Jetstar Airways. 

All information is correct at press time. MICA (P) 077/01/2012 

Printed by Webstar Sydney: 1/83 Derby St., Silverwater, NSW 

2128, AUSTRALIA.

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words: Zuhara Yusoff Image: osa Images 

events /// profiles /// food /// drinks /// places /// sTYle 

julY 

great diary 

dates 

insects alive 

Cirque du soleil returns to Australia 

with oVo. we chat with artistic 

director, marjon Van grunsven 

How is oVo different 

from Cirque du soleil’s 

otHer sHows? 

There are no human characters at 

all in this show — all characters 

represent insects. There's a very 

clear story line which tells the story 

of a ladybug who falls in love with 

a foreign fly that stumbles upon a 

community of insects. The story is 

based on one day in the life of this 

community — it's about acceptance 

and love. 

As ArtistiC direCtor, wHAt 

exACtly do you do on oVo? 

Once the show is created, I receive 

it as a baby. It's my job to make it 

mature, evolve and get better every 

day. I manage all 54 artists and the 

11 people in the artistic team help 

me manage the show. My job is to 

inspire the artists and challenge 

them to find new ways to stay alert 

and present. 

wHAt is trAining like for 

tHe CAst? 

It differs for each artist. The acrobats 

train every day to stay in shape, 

between one and a half and two 

hours. The actors rehearse once 

or twice a week. We do a lot of 

video sessions for all the artistic 

and choreographic work. Each day 

the show is recorded, so you'll find 

artists watching the show to correct 

themselves, to analyse. I train 

with them only when we rehearse 

artistically. I also teach dance and 

movement classes. 

wHAt do you like About being 

pArt of Cirque du soleil? 

Everything! It is the most grateful, 

humbling and generous life to be 

part of. It can be tough but I guess 

the family life, the bond you build 

with each artist, the joy you see 

in their faces and in those of the 

audience, it's worth it. What I like 

most is that it teaches you to stay 

right in the moment. This means you 

live your life to the fullest! 

oVo is on from 14 July across 

australia. Ticketing details at 

cirquedusoleil.com/ovo. 

005

’til 26 aug 

go on and laugh 

comicus erectus is back for another round of laughs. We 

chat with international comedian, joe avati 

What can We exPect FroM 

coMicuS erectuS? 

this new show features four very 

polished comedians who are 

draw cards in their own right. it’s 

jam-packed full of laughter as each 

comedian recounts his own stories 

about growing up with an ethnic 

background. George Kapiniaris 

and i are joined by Greek american 

basile who brings a las vegas-style 

element to the show, and hosting 

the event is Fat Pizza’s tahir bilgic. 

your brand oF coMedy relieS 

on racial StereotyPeS — have 

you oFFended anyone lately? 

there’s always someone who gets 

offended but they’re usually the 

people who are not ethnic, strangely 

enough. the show confronts issues 

Philip Glass 

the QatSi triloGy 

31 jul–2 auG, Melbourne 

The Trilogy features Godfrey Reggio's 

three visionary films — Koyaanisqatsi, 

Powaqqatsi and Naqoyqatsi — with 

musical scores performed live by 

Philip Glass with The Philip Glass 

Ensemble. Arts Centre Melbourne. 

006 

we are faced with every day and we 

discuss the truth — that’s why it’s so 

successful because so many people 

can relate to it. We take the mickey 

out of ourselves first, which is a very 

australian thing to do. 

do you Feel any PreSSure 

to be Funnier than your 

coMicuS erectuS co-StarS? 

no. each of us are very good at what 

we do, we have our own individual 

styles and our own fans. i may not 

be someone’s favourite act tonight 

but perhaps i will be the next night. 

it’s important that we appeal to 

various audiences. 

Comicus Erectus is on 'til 26 

August across Australia. Tickets at 

comicuserectus.com. 

younG talent tiMe — 

the teaM GoeS live 

’til 15 jul, Sydney & Melbourne 

The TV show's talented group of young performers will 

be presenting an exciting mix of group numbers as well 

as solo performances. Hosted by Rob Mills, competition 

winners Lil' Banditz Krew will star as special guests. 

Various venues, details at yttlive.com.au. 

Gertrude Street 

Projection FeStival 

20–29 jul, Melbourne 

Windows, laneway walls, footpaths, 

shop interiors, tree trunks and whole 

buildings on Gertrude Street will be 

lit up with artistic creations by award- 

winning projection artists. Free entry. 

Tenjin MaTsuri: oSaKa touriSM board joe avaTi: jaMeS PenlidiS 

YounG TaLenT TiMe: Peter breW bevan

Don’t 

Miss 

Singapore 

Food FeStival 

13–22 Jul, 

Singapore 

eat your way 

across the 

island as 

this annual 

gourmet festival 

returns to whet 

appetites. 

various venues, 

details at 

singapore 

foodfestival. 

com.sg. 

Tenjin MaTsuri 

24–25 jul, Osaka 

Catch over 3,000 people in colourful 

imperial costumes parade through the 

streets and watch the boat procession 

and fireworks in this exciting summer 

event. It's one of Japan's grandest 

celebrations. Tenman Shrine and 

Tenmabashi Bridge. Free. 

events /// profiles /// fooD /// Drinks /// places /// stYle 

ausTralian snOOker 

gOldFields Open 

9–15 jul, MelbOurne 

This prestigious tournament will see 

32 of the world's best players and two 

Australian Wild Card entrants compete 

for the title in country town Bendigo. 

Bendigo Stadium, tickets 

at +61 (3) 5440 6214. 

13–15 JUL 

gOOd FOOd & Wine sHOW 

perTH 

Spice up your weekend with this 

exciting gourmet program. The 

Fisher & Paykel Celebrity Theatre 

features a smoking hot line-up 

of chefs such as Ainsley Harriott 

and Manu Feildel who will whip 

up tantalising treats, while wine 

aficionados can head to the Riedel 

Decanter Bar for some quick lessons 

from leading sommeliers. Perth 

Convention and Exhibition Centre, 

tickets at 132 849. 

disco divas 

High camp trio the Fabulous 

singlettes will perform at the 

Melbourne Cabaret Festival 2012. 

We meet founding member, 

naomi eyers 

HOW dO yOu Feel abOuT 

perFOrMing in MelbOurne 

aFTer a deCade’s absenCe? 

We’re excited about it! We had 

a ball the last time we were 

here — it’s been 25 years since 

we first played here! i’m so 

glad the child labour laws have 

tightened up. i mean, they 

wouldn’t let 10-year-olds star 

in their shows these days like 

they did back then. 

WHaT Have yOu gOT FOr us 

THis TiMe rOund? 

More frocks, more hair, more 

fun, more dance steps — quite a 

bit of colour and movement! and 

of course, some of the best pop 

music ever written. 

WHaT’s THe appeal OF THe 

70s FOr yOu? 

The music and fashion. love 

that funk and disco, and love the 

Farrah flicks. Though of course 

everything assumes an extra 

degree of difficulty when done 

in platforms. 

The Melbourne Cabaret Festival 

is on from 12-21 July across 

various venues. Bookings at 

melbournecabaret.com 

007

events /// profiles /// food /// drinks /// places /// sTYle 

11–12 jul 

the AMAzinG bubble MAn 

AuCklAnd 

Louis Pearl has been thrilling 

audiences around the world for nearly 

30 years with the art, magic, science 

and fun of bubbles. His bubble tricks 

combined with ingenious sets, lighting 

and music will have children and adults 

mesmerised. The Civic, The Edge, 

tel: +64 (9) 357 3355. 

book now 

James Morrison, 

History of Robotics 

Melbourne Art FAir 

1-5 Aug, Melbourne 

one of the highlights is the 

project rooms showcasing 

works of unrepresented and 

emerging artists. 

royal exhibition building. 

Punch Brothers 

AdelAide internAtionAl 

GuitAr FestivAl 

kelly 

9-12 Aug, AdelAide 

enjoy electrifying performances dAvid 

from some of the best musicians 

gala: 

across a broad spectrum of 

don’T 

music, from classical and roots 

Miss 

to jazz, blues and funk. 

jakarta 

international 

InternatIonal 

kIte FestIval 

2012 

GAllery 

15–16 jul, 

jakarta 

kniGht 

Participants 

from Indonesia 

dArren 

and the region 

And 

the roCks AroMA FestivAl 

terrAin 

with kites of 

all shapes 

29 Jul, sydney 

’til 7 oCt, 

and sizes will 

Don't miss this festival of impressive ACross AustrAliA compete in internAtionAl 

Morrison 

brews from some of Australia's finest Bangarra Dance Theatre's new this annual GAlA 2012 

festival. ancol 

JAMes 

coffee roasters. Explore more than 100 work, Terrain, is a powerful fusion of Dream land, 3-5 Aug, brisbAne 

fair: 

stalls in four themed sections — the contemporary dance and storytelling free entry. 

Queensland ballet’s annual 

art 

Middle Eastern Oasis, the Continent, inspired by Australia's Lake Eyre. 

season features classical and 

the Orient and the Latin Quarter. The troupe starts its national tour in 

contemporary masterworks. 

The Rocks, free. Melbourne. Visit bangarra.com.au 

Queensland Performing Arts Cntr. melbourne 

008


Milijana Nikolic as Amneris 

as verdi’s grand opera aida 

returns to the stage, we ask the 

director about this masterpiece 

you’re directinG aida for 

opera australia aGain — 

what’s your affinity with it? 

It allows me as a director to pull out 

all the stops. 

how will this production 

differ to your previous one? 

The wonderful thing about opera 

is that, with each production, quite 

often the cast, conductor and 

obviously the audience changes. I 

will be making adjustments to suit 

the individual cast members. The 

overall structure of the production 

doesn't change and there are many 

of the original cast still with us who 

were so fantastic in the original. It's 

really about this cast making it their 

own under my direction. 

010 

10 

minutes 

with... 

graeme 

murphy 

how do you find choreoGraphinG 

opera versus your lonG career 

in Ballet? 

Not particularly different. I come to opera 

from the point of view of the music, same as 

I do for ballet. Amazing composers such as 

Verdi are so skilled at telling the story through 

music. I want the audience to feel that what's 

happening on the stage and the music work 

as one. 

how will you capture the Grandeur of 

ancient eGypt on staGe? 

I've tried not to do a realist production 

with incredible sets. Instead, I've focused 

on a more two-dimensional design that 

emphasises the cast's humanity and 

vulnerability, allowing an experience that isn't 

overpowered by a reproduction of Egypt. 

what will italian soprano norma 

fantini BrinG to the lead role of aida? 

It's her much-anticipated Australian debut 

in the title role for which she is lauded 

internationally. I've yet to meet Norma but 

her reputation precedes her. Paired with 

the equally stunning Milijana Nikolic who 

performs Amneris, I have no doubt sparks 

will fly! 

what can you tell us aBout the rest 

of the production crew? 

Roger Kirk always shines when he does 

both sets and costumes. Damien Cooper 

does lighting and understands theatre in 

every form. The incredible Gruchy brothers on 

video make the two-dimensional sets spring 

into 3D. I have the thrill of again working with 

Maestro Arvo Volmer, who brought incredible 

life to my recent production of Turandot. 

what makes aida “one opera everyone 

should experience”? 

Aida is the seminal operatic experience! 

And in this production you'll experience a 

stunning fusion of music, drama and dance 

and a great night in the theatre. 

Cassar-Daley 

is enjoying 

aida is on 17 july – 13 october at sydney 

being on tour 

opera house 

IntervIew: rachel farnay jacques photo: Branco Gaica

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012 

Out & 

AbOut 

a bowl of 

happiness 

What could be more 

heart-warming than a super 

winter soup? 

Sumo SoupS 

Healthy eating shouldn't 

stop at summer salads — but 

staying well nourished during 

winter can be a challenge. 

Grabbing a tasty, filling, 

warming, healthy lunch on the 

run just got easier this winter, 

thanks to chef Pete Evans 

who's created two new soups 

for the SumoSalad range: beef 

& vegetable soup and chicken 

& vegetable soup. 

"Winter can sometimes be 

a dangerous time for healthy 

eating," Evans says, "so I'm hoping 

my new range of winter dishes at 

Sumo makes the choices a little 

easier. Both my soups are loaded 

with veggies and pulses to keep you 

satisfied during the day. The beef 

soup recipe is adapted from a good 

old-fashioned minestrone recipe, so 

it's hearty, but healthy. The chicken 

soup is lighter in colour and we've 

added some sweet corn — it’s the 

perfect remedy for cold winter days." 

www.sumosalad.com 

Go for pho 

For sheer warming comfort food, it's 

hard to go past slurping a big bowl 

of pho, Vietnamese noodle soup. 

And the unassuming Pho Pasteur 

TOP: Enjoy healthy, 

hearty soups at 

budget-priced The 

Soup Opera Express

words: rOberta muir; twitter @rObertamuir 


in Sydney's Chinatown serves up 

some of the best this side of Hanoi. 

Choose from beef, deep-fried chicken, 

grilled pork or a range of 'special' 

variations (which may not be for 

the uninitiated), in a rich balanced 

broth with slippery rice noodles 

and a generous plate of crisp herbs 

and sprouts for dropping on top, 

all for under AU$12. 709 George St, 

Haymarket, tel: +61 (2) 9212 5622. 

Operatic Overtures 

The Soup Opera Express, by three 

friends who met at Melbourne 

University’s Trinity College, opened 

last month at Melbourne's Chadstone 

Shopping Centre food court, selling 

healthy soup to the corporate crowd. 

Ex-architect Harrison Wraight 

explains: "I was working hard and 

partying harder in Berlin during 

my architecture study year and 

soup quickly became my saviour. 

My friends were falling in love with 

German ladies; I fell in love with 

a beetroot borscht. I always felt 

revitalised eating this soup, like I 

could keep powering on." 

Returning to Australia, he 

recruited friends Ryan Atkinson and 

Alex Oppes. All their soups are based 

on stocks slowly simmered for 12 

hours and their Thai Pumpkin with 

Coriander & Chilli and Low GI Beef & 

Pearl Barley are racing out the 

door this winter. 1341 Dandenong 

Rd, Chadstone. 

“WINNER” 

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| DINING | FUNCTIONS | 

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In the beautiful surroundings of 

heritage listed Admiralty House 

PH 08 8981 4544 

Old Admiralty House Cnr Knuckey St 

& The Esplanade Darwin CBD 

www.chardarwin.com.au 

Lunch – Wednesday to Friday 

from 12:00 noon 

Dinner 7 nights till late 

013

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014 

Experience it Like Never Before 

in 3D 

in cinemas 

Perth 

out & 

about 

living the 

high life 

While away a wintry afternoon 

at an indulgent high tea 

When His Majesty's Theatre 

opened on Christmas Eve 1904, 

it was the largest theatre in 

Australia and is now Australia's 

only remaining working 

Edwardian theatre. It's the 

perfect setting for Sunday high 

tea. The next dates are on 8 July 

and 14 October from 3-5pm. 

Nibble on tiny lemon meringue 

pies and fruit-cake fingers, duck 

and muscatel savoury éclairs, 

petite open sandwiches with 

loose leaf tea or filtered coffee 

to the sound of a live classical 

trio playing in the background. 

AU$45 per person. 825 Hay St, 

Perth, tel: +61 (8) 9226 1006. 

Melbourne 

Hopetoun Tea Rooms, at the 

entrance to the beautifully restored 

Block Arcade, was opened in 1891 

for the Victorian Ladies' Work 

Association by Lady Hopetoun. A 

visit here feels like stepping back 

to a grander era, a time when 

taking afternoon tea from fine 

China cups while nibbling on dainty 

sandwiches from a tiered silver 

stand was serious business. Enjoy 

fresh-baked quiche, ribbon and 

pinwheel sandwiches, scones with 

double cream and jam, petits fours 

and fresh fruit with tea, coffee, 

fruit juice or soft drinks. AU$50 per 

person. Shops 1 & 2, 282 Collins St, 

Melbourne, tel: +61 (3) 9650 2777. 

TOP/RIGHT: 

Delectable nibbles 

at His Majesty’s 

Theatre; the 

Fashionista High Tea 

at Palazzo Versace

words: RobeRta muiR; twitteR @RobeRtamuiR 


Nibble oN 

tiNy lemoN 

meriNgue pies 

aNd fruitcake 

fiNgers 

Kevin’s Cuppa 

In 2011, Twinings asked over 100 

Australian celebrities to come up with 

an original tea blend which they felt 

best reflected the taste of Australia. 

The result is Australian Afternoon Tea 

created by The Honourable Kevin Rudd, 

and 10 cents from each sale goes to 

Mr Rudd's chosen charity, the RSPCA. 

Kevin combined smoky Russian Caravan 

with full-bodied Irish Breakfast and a 

touch of lighter Ceylon Orange Pekoe. In 

supermarkets and delis until year end. 

Gold Coast 

Palazzo Versace recently launched 

'Fashionista High Tea' at its Le Jardin 

lobby lounge — complete with 

Rosenthal Versace Arabesque china, 

vaulted ceilings and hand-crafted 

mosaics for the ultimate culinary 

catwalk. The winter menu features 

a combination of scones with 

preserves and cream, pastries (think 

macarons, cupcakes, fruit tartlets) 

and savouries, including mini bagels, 

croissants and dark rye pillows with 

a range of fillings including smoked 

salmon and gypsy ham. AU$45 per 

person. Add a glass of Dom Pérignon 

for the ultimate indulgence! 94 Sea 

World Drv, Main Beach, Gold Coast, 

tel: +61 (7) 5509 8000. 

Accom Hamilton 

Island’s properties 

allow you to escape 

the crowds and enjoy 

an independent and 

luxurious holiday, with 

all the bene ts of resort living. 

Hamilton Island - 

accessible by ferry from 

Airlie Beach and direct 

ights from Sydney, Brisbane and 

Melbourne and 

Cairns. 

Contact our Reservations Team today! 

Tel: 1800 466 600 

info@accomhamiltonisland.net.au 

230 Shute Harbour Road, 

Cannonvale QLD 4802 Australia 

www.hamiltonislandaccommodation.info 

015

ook & stay by July 31 for a 

complimentary upgrade to 

a suite, from $300 

016 

offer applies to direct bookings only 

and is subject to availability 

2 High Street Auckland 

hoteldebrett.com 

Out & 

AbOut 

big redS 

We taste eight great warming 

reds under AU$30 — plus 

something extra special 

Angove Organic 2011 

1 Merlot (Riverland, SA) Deep 

purple with raspberry and plum 

on the nose, dark red fruits, 

cinnamon and mocha on the 

palate. We often expect to pay 

more for organic, so this is an 

especially pleasant surprise. 

RRP AU$14.95. 

2008 MadFish Sideways 

2 Cabernet Sauvignon 

Merlot (Margaret River, WA) 

This Bordeaux-style blend of 

cabernet sauvignon, merlot 

and petit verdot has aromas of 

blackberry, mulberry, bay leaf 

and blackcurrant with plum 

flavours and a savoury edge. 

RRP AU$20. 

Grant Burge Sparkling 

3 Shiraz Cabernet NV 

(Barossa Valley, SA) Sparkling 

red is so Australian. This 

delicious example is deep ruby 

with a complex, earthy nose of 

smoky oak, bacon and spicy 

cedar and flavours of cherry and 

blackberry. RRP AU$25.95. 

Zema Estate Shiraz 2008 

4 (Coonawarra, SA) This rich 

robust wine has Coonawarra's 

trademark pepper and spicy fruit 

on the nose with hints of vanillin 

oak and flavours of blackberry, 

plum and spice. RRP AU$25.95. 

1 

Bottled love 

Katherine Brown, greatgranddaughter 

of the winery's 

founder says: "The Patricia range 

is dedicated to my grandmother 

Patricia Brown, for the love and 

commitment she gave to her 

family for over 60 years. Patricia 

wines have been nurtured with 

total commitment to quality." 

Brown Brothers Patricia Shiraz 

2008 (King Valley, VIC) Dark inky 

purple hues, a nose of blackberry, 

currants, spice and liquorice lead 

to a rich palate of pepper and 

plum. RRP AU$54.90. 

2 

3

words: RObeRTa muIR; TWITTeR @RObeRTamuIR 


4 5 6 7 

2011 Logan Weemala Pinot 

5 Noir (Orange, NSW) Pinot 

noir's a notoriously tricky grape, 

so it's hard to find a good one 

under AU$30. Bright cherry 

red with aromas of red cherry, 

strawberry and thyme and flavours 

of red berries with an earthy 

complexity make this a very 

drinkable wine. RRP AU$17. 

2010 Primo & Co The Tuscan 

6 Shiraz Sangiovese (Tuscany, 

Italy) Made in Italy by South 

Australian winemaker Joe Grilli, 

savoury sangiovese tempers the 

fruitiness of shiraz to create a 

smooth soft red. RRP AU$28. 

8 

mount Langhi Ghiran 2009 

7 Cliff edge Shiraz (Grampians, 

VIC) An attractive dark garnet 

red in colour, it has dark cherry, 

blueberry and hints of roasted 

coffee on the nose with refreshing 

blueberry, spice and savoury 

complexity on the palate to finish. 

RRP AU$30. 

Kilikanoon Prodigal Grenache 

8 2009 (Clare Valley, Sa) 

Old, low-yielding vines and small 

oak casks produce an intensely 

perfumed example of how good 

grenache can be. Cherries, dark 

chocolate and spice lead to a soft 

finish. RRP AU$30. 

017

MEN’S ACCESSORIES WITH AN EDGE. 

Available online and from quality independent men’s retailers. 

www.smith-street.com.au 

NOW ALSO AVAILABLE FROM THE ICONIC 

www.theiconic.com.au

Words: ManaMi Okazaki photos: jOHn lander 

Sapporo Factory’s 

historic beer hall 

BELOW: Hokkaido ramen 

is noodle heaven 

from Dawn 

’til Dusk 

northern 

delights 

While Hokkaido is renowned 

for its ski resorts and winter 

snow festival, the capital Sapporo is 

famed for its superior local produce, 

dairy products and delectable 

seafood on offer everywhere 

7am Start the food feasting early 

and head out to Nijo, a central fish 

market (five minutes' walk from 

Odori Station) which is open to the 

public. The market is crammed with 

local produce, such as crab and sea 

urchin. Enjoy a filled-to-the-brim 

bowl of the freshest catch over rice 

for ¥2,500 (AU$32) at small eateries 

such as Ajinonikou. 

9am It was only in the Meiji period 

(1868-1912) that Sapporo underwent 

development as it became the 

administrative centre of Hokkaido. 

Urban planning was influenced 

by foreign cities, and as a result 

Sapporo has a grid structure atypical 

to most Japanese cities. Walk among 

the lush green avenues of Odori 

Park, which runs directly through the 

centre of the city and get a feel for 

Sapporo's modern layout. 

events /// Profiles /// fooD /// Drinks /// places /// stYle 

11am Go to the symbol of the city, 

the former Hokkaido Government 

Building, built in 1888. Made of 

red brick, the neo-baroque style 

of architecture is typical of Meijiera 

monuments. Ten minutes' 

walk away, is the Sapporo Clock 

Tower. Built in 1878, it's the 

oldest building in Sapporo, and 

incongruously mid-west American 

in appearance. 

12pm A famed and much loved 

product of Sapporo is the beer, 

and the Sapporo Factory (12 

minutes' walk from JR Sapporo 

Station; tel: +81 (11) 207 5000) 

in the heart of the city is where 

a famed and much 

loved product of 

sapporo is the beer 

Mr MaSuda, nature 

pHOtOgrapHer 

“the 

summer 

months 

are the 

best; odori 

Park has 

many food 

events that 

showcase 

Hokkaido’s 

produce” 

it started. There's a historic beer 

hall that serves a type of microbrew 

that's only available at the factory 

and Hokkaido's most popular dishes. 

There's also a museum, over 30 

restaurants, and a shopping complex 

perfect for buying souvenirs. 

4pm Enjoy a breathtaking view of 

the city from the Sapporo TV Tower 

(five minutes' walk from Odori 

Subway Station; tel: +81 (11) 241 

1131) observation deck, which is 

90m high. The 360-degree view is 

simply gorgeous, and it's a popular 

spot for couples at sunset. 

6pm Head out to Susukino, 

Sapporo's downtown. Hokkaido 

is also renowned for its ramen 

noodles, and the best place to 

try them is at the Kouraku Ramen 

Meitengai, the birthplace of miso 

ramen. The alleyway has been there 

since 1951, and has 17 ramen stalls 

— considered to be some of the 

best in Japan. We recommend stall 

Ajinosanpei, a local favourite. 

jetstar has great low fares to Sapporo, 

japan. Visit jetstar.com to book. 

019


A pair of classic boots 

never go out of style 

style 

file 

reboot 

your style 

Pull these boots on for maximum effect on 

your next urban adventure 

out on tHe town 

3 For dress shoes, look no further than Squire 

Shoes by brothers Peter and Nick Bokas. Using 

made for comfort 

1 Women on the go just want to live life to the 

coloured and textured nubuck leather uppers 

and recycled car tyres as soles, their boots for 

fullest without achy feet and the Naturalizer men promise comfort in style. 262 Oxford St, 

range of shoes promise just that... and in great Paddington, Sydney, tel: +61 (2) 8970 8570; or 

style to boot! The Arness Black knee-high free shipping across Australia at squireshoes. 

boots come with the N5 comfort system: extra com.au. New arrivals from AU$169. 

comfort, breathable lining, balance with every 

step, flexible soles and lightweight material. 

taKe tHe load off 

4 The Naot Claudia leather lace-up boot 

AU$230, for stockists call 1800 651 185. has leather uppers and lining, support and 

PoP, it Goes! 

2 Your girls will love the Crocs Crocband 

cushioning, and the elevated footbed takes the 

pressure off the centre of your foot. AU$249.95; 

Jaunt boots... whether splashing through stockists on shoesuperstore.com.au. 

puddles or tramping over meadows in the 

countryside. Lightweight, fully moulded out 

military cHic 

5 The French brand Palladium's lightweight 

of croslite and easy to pull and super comfortable new Pampa Hi 

on and off. Available in navy, Lite (AU$159.99) and new Baggy Lite 

sea blue, fuchsia and yellow; (AU$149.99) are the last word in street 

AU$49.99, stockists on 

cred. Various colours; stockists available 

crocsaustralia.com.au. 

at gluestore.com.au. 

020 

Well-heeled 

we talk to the designer and 

buyer of uK made-to-measure 

duo boots, Jenna lewis, about 

how to best enhance our look 

How can we Have 

made-to-measure calf 

boots from duo? 

finding boots to perfectly fit 

your calves is simple thanks to 

duo’s interactive video tutorial 

on www.duoboots.com. simply 

measure the width of your calf, 

input your measurements and 

then choose your style. there’s 

also a styling notes section 

which advises new customers on 

the best styles for their shape 

and how to wear them. 

wHat’s tHe best way to wear 

boots witH style? 

women should never underestimate 

simplicity when it 

comes to pulling together an 

outfit. when choosing boots, 

always keep proportions in mind 

— equestrian-style over-the-knee 

boots will elongate longer legs, 

while ankle or mid-calf boots will 

flatter petite frames. 

1 2 3 4 5 

words: anne loH

New For Spring/Summer 2012 

Eden Collection 

Available in August

HEADING INTO 

AUCKLAND? 

022 

TAKE THE SMART 

OPTION WITH 

AIRBUS EXPRESS! 

$16 ONEWAY 

AIRPORT TO CITY 

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THE BIZ 

packing 

a punch 

anton Botha, brand manager 

for luggage brand Paklite, 

explains how the brand 

stays at the top 

Apart from looking good, our bags 

also have to be functional and 

innovative. We constantly research 

market trends and keep up with the 

latest changes in manufacturing 

gagliano 

Josie interview: 

What is Paklite’s 

techniques and technology. 

design PhilosoPhy? 

Our design philosophy is 

hoW does Paklite 

stay innovative? 

TOP/RIGHT: 

Anton Botha; 

Paklite’s designs 

simple. We want to create 

luggage that's more than just 

The important thing is not to get too 

focused on your own industry. It's 

are ready to go 

anywhere 

something to get your clothes important to look further afield; see 

and belongings from point A what's happening in other related 

to B in. People have become industries, like apparel, surfwear, 

conscious of factors such as sports, the outdoors. We have to be 

style and quality. So, we've aware of new season colours and 

kept evolving our products patterns, and changes in consumer 

to meet requirements of trends; plus changes in personal 

modern travellers by creating electronics and technology are 

collections that are both important, in terms of designs for 

practical and fashionable. business bags and backpacks. In my


role I do lots of travel, so I trial new 

designs and combinations regularly. 

It's amazing what you can discover 

about a product by using it in a 

practical situation. 

How do you stay aHead of 

tHe pack? 

We offer a wide selection of luggage 

options to suit most types of travel, 

from traditional trolley cases to 

adventure lifestyle duffle bags. 

Today, end users research their 

purchases online before they make 

a decision, so it's important to give 

our customers the best available 

materials and components at the 

best price. Plus, innovation and 

a point of difference, to set your 

brand apart from the crowd. 

wHat sHould buyers look for 

wHen buying luggage? 

The most important thing to 

consider: the type of travel you'll 

be doing. Do you need traditional 

luggage or do you need something 

more adventurous, like a trolley 

duffle? Do you want hard-side or 

soft-side luggage? Consider things 

like weight and size restrictions with 

airlines for both check-in and cabin 

luggage. Then, look for specifics like 

quality fabrics, wheels, zippers and 

trolley handles. Most importantly, 

remember you get what you pay for, 

so purchase the best luggage you 

can afford. 

wHat are your tips on luggage 

for kids? 

For kids' luggage: go wild. There are 

plenty of fantastic colours and styles 

available for kids. Just remember that 

if it needs to be checked in under the 

plane it needs to be good enough 

quality to withstand the rigours of 

baggage handlers and carousels. For 

kids' cabin luggage, make sure it's 

something they can either wheel or 

carry themselves without too 

much effort. 

your best packing tips for tHe 

plane traveller? 

Always check your luggage 

allowances and remember that 

these can vary between airlines 

and also between domestic and 

international. Don't over-pack. 

Research where you're going and 

allow for changes in climate. Don't 

pack anything into your checked 

luggage if you can't afford to lose 

it. Keep your travel documents and 

valuables in your cabin baggage. 

7 

023

events /// profiles /// food /// drinks /// places /// stYle 

Sculpt your figure at 

the Barre Body Studio 

wellbeing 

winter 

warriors 

Stay in form this winter with 

our health and fitness solutions 

Meet you at the Barre 

Sculpt your figure into the long 

lean look of a ballet dancer with the 

Barre Body studio in Melbourne. The 

fat-burning, flexibility and muscleshaping 

format creates a dynamic 

and highly effective workout. Tucked 

inside endota spa at 69 Flinders Ln, 

Melbourne, tel: +61 (0) 0458 452 201. 

Up at Xtend Barre studio, the workout 

is a fast-paced 55-minute fusion 

of dance, Pilates and sculpting 

exercises at the ballet barre. No dance 

experience necessary. Lvl 4, 73 York 

St, Sydney, tel: +61 (2) 8065 1707. 

Pole PoSition 

Heat things up with pole dancing 

at Miss Fit Dance Studios, Sydney. 

Founder, pole-dancer extraordinaire 

and mother of two, Sarah Thompson 

says it's a fun way to get stronger, 

more flexible and add an element 

of self-expression to your exercise 

routine. Tel: +61 (0) 431 244 162. 

024 

ice age 

Medibank Icehouse, the ice, sports and entertainment 

centre, is the perfect place to try some ice hockey, figure 

skating or speed skating. Training programs are available 

for people of all ages. And let's not forget Weekend 

Glow Nights with DJs and dancing. They also offer 

free 15-minute ice skating lessons. 105 Pearl River Rd, 

Docklands, VIC, tel: 1300 756 699. 

Genie in a Bottle 

With cold and flu medicines for 

children under six years now banned, 

you can't blame parents for fretting 

winter's arrival. A safe and effective 

cough medicine for kids under six 

is bioRevive's Prospan Expectorant. 

Available from pharmacies. 

HealtH Queen 

Belinda coldebella, principal 

of healthkicks online health 

service and nutrition, Dietetics & 

exercise clinic in cairns, reveals 

how to stay healthy this winter 

What challengeS DoeS Winter 

iMPoSe uPon health? 

People tend to stay indoors — 

they move less and eat richer 

food. the flu circulates more so 

washing hands is important, 

being aware of those around you 

coughing and sneezing, and also 

maintaining a diet rich in vitamin 

c and zinc — healthy natural 

immune boosters. 

hoW can We Maintain 

oPtiMuM health in Winter? 

nothing influences mind, body 

and soul like exercise. it helps 

with stress management, sleep, 

body shape, digestion and “feel 

good” hormones. We love rich, 

warming foods in winter, so get 

the richness from soups, spices, 

herbs and sauces and watch 

your meal sizes; if your activity 

decreases, so too should your 

food portions. 

What are your three MuSthave 

health BooSterS? 

Zinc and vitamin c lozenges, 

nutrition care tasty B-complex 

with antioxidants, and loads of 

healthy homemade chicken and 

vegetable soup rich in garlic, 

ginger, vietnamese mint, lemon 

juice and chilli — yum! 

Words: rachel farnay jacqueS


5 ways 

going for 

gold in 

sydney 

Relive the excitement of the 2000 

Olympics at Sydney Olympic Park 

anZ STadium exPlORe TOuR 

1 Most of us can only dream of 

being an elite athlete but everyone 

on this entertaining tour gets to run 

down the athletes' tunnel at ANZ 

Stadium to the sound of 80,000 

people cheering. Even though it's 

only a recording, the wall of sound 

still makes your legs pump faster. 

Away from the sporting field, visitors 

can visit restricted athlete areas for 

a behind-the-scenes glimpse (and 

smell) of the locker rooms before 

running out onto the field to claim 

victory. Tel: +61 (2) 8765 2300. 

Sydney OlymPic PaRk 

2 aquaTic cenTRe 

This indoor venue hosted the 

swimming in 2000 and its Olympic 

facilities remain along with a 

terrific kids' play area with a 

waterslide, rapid river ride and 

spurting volcanoes. Grown-ups 

will probably prefer the impressive 

steam, spa and sauna area. It only 

costs AU$3.50 to remember your 

favourite Olympic moments at 

this historic pool which is widely 

regarded as one of the fastest in the 

world. Tel: +61 (2) 9752 3666. 

Segway TOuR 

3 Segways are available for 

zippy tours although most visitors 

026 

have to conquer the urge to speed. After an 

orientation session, those on the 30-minute 

tour can try their hand at some precision 

riding and enjoy a little off-road action. The 

90-minute X2 Adventure Plus tour has all the 

excitement of an Olympic final with a flat-out 

group race and daring forays down a flight of 

stairs. Tel: +61 (0)432 163 476. 

Bike Ride 

4 Or hire a bike and explore the entire 2000 

Olympics site at your own pace. Prices start 

at AU$15 an hour and there's a free cycle map 

available with three different routes. In just 

under an hour you'll pass the famous Olympic 

cauldron, which has since been turned 

into a fountain, and cruise alongside Cathy 

Freeman Park before travelling back via the 

Sydney Sports Centre which houses the Hall 

Explore the Olympics 

site by bike 

of Champions, a permanent exhibition paying 

tribute to some of New South Wales' most 

famous athletes. Tel: +61 (2) 9746 1572. 

auSTRalian TenniS muSeum 

5 The Australian Tennis Museum is home 

to an impressive array of racquets, trophies, 

clothing, balls, photos, videos, scrapbooks, 

programs and books, all of them linked to 

Australia's tennis greats. Check out the dress 

Sam Stosur wore as the US Open champion in 

2011 or take a trip back in time to the Hopman 

era. With over 15,000 items in the collection, 

there's always something new to see at this 

fascinating museum. Tel: +61 (2) 9024 7629. 

Jetstar has great low fares to Sydney. Visit 

Jetstar.com to book. 

Words: Tiana TemPleman


fit to go 

double 

dose of 

inspiration 

Shake off the winter woollies and 

find your inner athlete around the 

sunny town of Noosa 

Over one weekend in July, athletic 

events ranging from semi-leisurely to 

downright demanding may challenge 

you to wipe the dust off your vintage 

bicycle if you have one (or find one if 

you don't), and possibly even inspire 

you to conquer a mountain. 

RidiNg AloNg 

Designed with Italy's annual L' 

Eroica ('the Heroic') in mind, the 

second annual Noosa Eroica Cycling 

Event requires that participants use 

vintage steel-framed bicycles, ideally 

manufactured before 1990. 

"The modern carbon-fibre framed 

bike is outlawed," says organiser 

Andrew McKellar. "Participants 

ride restored thoroughbred, exteam 

bicycles from the 1960s or 

flea-market finds, and often [wear] 

appropriate woollen vintage cycling 

jerseys and leather cycling shoes." 

028 

Two rides are available: the main 115km loop 

and a new 40km mini-Eroica, which "is not to 

be taken lightly", notes McKellar. Both start 

from the Noosa Marina and travel through the 

picturesque Noosa hinterland, passing through 

country towns and incorporating some climbs 

and unsealed roads. 

Local business Bike On will operate a 

vehicle that will follow the peloton and render 

assistance if required; however, riders should 

carry their own spare parts and tubes. 

Hilltop Hike 

While it's unlikely that anyone would have 

sufficient time or energy to pedal 115km and 

then compete in the Pomona King of the 

Riders at the Noosa 

Eroica Cycling Event 

BELOW: Participants 

at the Pomona King of 

the Mountain Festival 

Mountain Festival's main event, spectators 

can witness parts of each run. 

The 4.5km Mountain Challenge sees up to 

100 Australian and international competitors 

racing from the country town of Pomona to 

the top of 438m Mt Cooroora and back. This 

excruciatingly steep mountain trail is worth 

exploring at another time, both to take in the 

wide hinterland views and also gain a better 

understanding of what runners face on the day. 

The festival also features some less 

gruelling events, for example, the easy 3km 

Family Fun Run and the 2.8km Mountain Dash. 

21-22 July 2012 tewANtiN: 

NooSA eRoicA cycliNg eveNt 

If Sunday's main event sounds too lengthy, 

the 40km Mini-Eroica on Saturday offers a 

quicker route for pedalling a piece of history. 

noosa-eroica.com.au 

22 July 2012 pomoNA: 

pomoNA kiNg of tHe 

mouNtAiN feStivAl 

This challenge tends to lure powerfully fit 

competitors. Fortunately, less mighty events 

are available. kingofthemountain.com.au 

words: kara murphy MAIN photo: andrew mckellar

Maroochydore CBD 

Maroochy Boulevard

star struck 

LEFT TO RIGHT: 

Dougy Mandagi, 

Jonathon Aherne, 

Toby Dundas, 

Joseph Greer, 

Lorenzo Sillitto 

are on top of 

the world 

032

the 

temper 

trap 

With a hit 

follow-up album 

on their hands, 

The Temper Trap is 

set to raise the roof 

when they return to 

Australia for their 

national tour 

Words AdAm BAidAwi 

PhotograPhy EmmA PhilliPs - 

liZARd mANAGEmENT 

033

star struck 

w w 

e’re 31 floors 

above Melbourne, 

the sun yawning 

through the 

clouds, and The Temper Trap is reminiscing 

about working in retail three years earlier. 

Then, drummer Toby Dundas turns around 

and points a finger: “You can see it… just 

over there!” 

“General Pants!” grins frontman 

Dougy Mandagi. 

And there it is: peeking through the 

labyrinth of the CBD is the building 

the group called Work. Y’know, before 

work became all wanderlust and epic, 

guitar-stoned hits. 

It’s a faint memory for the boyish and 

relentlessly affable Melbourne group. 

Founded by Mandagi and Dundas, the pair 

recruited bassist Jonathon Aherne, Lorenzo 

Sillitto (who would craft the group’s 

charismatic riffs) and, later, keyboardist 

Joseph Greer. After the release of debut 

Conditions — and its reverb-drenched 

juggernaut ‘Sweet Disposition’ — they sold 

well-over half a million records, and would 

make the BRW Rich List in 2010. 

“Johnny was off on some beach in Mexico 

having a honeymoon,” explains Mandagi. 

“It was just three of us — ‘Sweet Disposition’ 

literally came together in two days.” 

On the back of “the easiest song” they’ve 

ever written, The Temper Trap went from 

hometown underdogs, to pop-culture 

invading globetrotters. So unexpected was 

their success, a source explained, that in the 

eye of their rise, they’d inadvertently ask 

their management for borrowed change for 

034 

JoSeph’S favourite CitY 

MelbourNe: "I'm a New Zealander. We've been 

to a lot of major cities, but Melbourne always has 

a special place for me." 

the temper trap oN tour 

Tickets for their tour with Coldplay are on sale now: 

SaT 10 Nov auckland, Mount Smart Stadium 

TueS 13 Nov Melbourne, etihad Stadium 

SaT 17 Nov Sydney, allianz Stadium (Moore Park) 

SuN 18 Nov Sydney, allianz Stadium (Moore Park) 

Wed 21 Nov brisbane, Suncorp Stadium 

melbourne: geTTy IMageS

"We just wrote what came 

natural, what felt good" 

coffee — completely unaware 

that they were sitting on, 

literally, millions. 

“We were in London, watching 

music on TV. It’s like, Lady Gaga, 

some R&B star, and … ‘Sweet 

Disposition’?!” grins Dundas. 

It all started in supreme earnest, 

after rising independent label, 

Liberation, inked a deal with a 

promising Melbourne act that 

many liked, but nobody was 

willing to commit to. 

In June, their self-titled 

follow-up to Conditions debuted 

at number one on the Australian 

ARIA albums chart, and now 

they’re literally peering down on 

the lives they used to lead. 

“It’s a reminder of where we 

came from,” nods Dundas. “It’s 

something that, even to this day, I 

can’t really grasp.” 

Naturally, with album two comes 

that patently irritating threat of 

sophomore slump. (Or, really, 

the patently irritating talk about 

sophomore slump.) So bloated is the 

industry’s cycle of hype, expectation 

and superfluous criticism that, well, 

it’s hard for an act to do something 

well, and have anything else 

received without pretense. 

For this follow-up — which 

they recorded in London — the 

M.O. was simple: “It was like 

035

star struck 

going to work. Going to an office every day, 

writing 9-to-5,” explains Mandagi. “We just 

wrote what came natural, what felt good. I 

couldn’t really picture what the end product 

was going to be like.” 

Less imaginable were the history-staining 

events that bookended their songwriting. 

Outside their apartments and studio, 

London’s youth were draped in hoodies and 

stolen Nikes, the city going up in a haze of 

flames and sirens. 

“Kids were just running around, covering 

their faces. We were there in the thick of it. 

It was a very intimidating time. People were 

on edge, looking over their shoulders. 

“Seeing a city as big and powerful as 

London being brought to its knees like 

that… ” reflects Dundas. “It wasn’t fun.” 

Mandagi, who had been sitting on a 

thumping, chaotic — and wordless — track, 

was compelled to write about what he’d 

seen. “I thought it was an important topic, 

something very significant that happened,” 

he explains. 

036 

TOP/ABOVE: 

The Temper Trap 

performs in 

London; at the 

BRIT Awards 2011 

"We were surprised by 

the reaction in the UK" 

The resulting song ‘London’s 

Burning’ is track two on the 

new LP. When I ask if there 

were any hesitations in writing 

something so intrinsically heated 

and political, the group shake 

their heads. 

“We were a bit surprised by the 

reaction in the UK, to be honest,” 

says Greer. 

To date, the backlash has been 

savage. Esteemed UK daily, 

The Guardian — who awarded 

Conditions four stars — called the 

photos: getty images

Every Saturday from 8.30pm* 

Check website for details 

HARBOURSIDE.COM.AU 

find Harbourside on facebook

star struck 

track “rotten”, saying it was packed with 

“the kind of windy clichés that would make 

Coldplay wince”. 

Depending on your proclivities, the 

song is either naïve and wincingly earnest, 

or a zeitgeisty frisson-fest. No punches 

pulled: talking about it, the group is visibly 

deflated. It’s a slump of the back, hesitation 

where there was none before. 

“You put so much of your life into it — so 

much energy — you can’t help but want for 

people to like it,” says Dundas. “We’re really 

proud of the album. We still are.” 

Between its two frontrunner singles — 

‘Need Your Love’ and ‘Trembling Hands’ 

— it’s clear that The Temper Trap’s follow-up 

isn’t any less satisfying than their debut. The 

arrangements are punchier, poppier and 

more daring. More noticeable, though, are 

the vocals. Mandagi’s new performances flirt 

with more grit. 

“We definitely don’t want to keep putting 

038 

"We don't want to put 

out the same records" 

out the same records or falling 

back too much into what worked 

last time,” says Greer. 

In November, they’ll open 

shows for post-rock giants, 

Coldplay. Tonight, though, they’ll 

take in the ultimate panacea: 

a sold-out room of unabashed 

fans at Melbourne’s Forum 

Theatre, cheering on their latest 

conquering of the charts. It’s the 

homecoming every world-worn 

band dreams of. And sometimes, 

the homecoming they need. 

‘London’s Burning’ will open 

the set. 

Dougy Mandagi 

lets rip his 

powerful vocals 

photo: getty images

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040 

Land 

of the 

rising 

fun 

fuji rock festival: TokyoFashion.com shonan: geTTy images takao: JnTo

When the going gets 

hot, the smart folk of 

Tokyo head out of town 

to nearby getaways that 

embrace all kinds of 

culture — from beaches 

and food to history, 

music and the arts 

Words ManaMi Okazaki 

If the summer heat of Tokyo 

gets too much to bear, relief 

is close at hand. A plethora of 

mountains and beaches just 

beyond the outskirts of the capital 

offer an easy escape into Japan’s 

natural oases. 

Hiking Heaven 

Mt Takao, west of Tokyo, is an 

easy 45-minute train ride from 

Shinjuku station, and great for the 

whole family. Here, there are eight 

scenic hiking trails that take about 

an hour and a half, or take the 

cable car if you prefer a bird’s-eye 

view. Popular with day-trippers 

from Tokyo is the opulent Yakuoin 

Buddhist temple, which was 

originally built in 744. It’s nestled 

in the woodland of Mt Takao and 

is believed to house tengu, a goblin 

deity that brings good fortune 

— accordingly, the complex is 

adorned with tengu statues 

and paintings. 

The area is famous for its 

density of trees and wildflowers 

hot spot // 

— in fact, Mt Takao was awarded 

three stars when the Michelin 

Green Guide was first published 

in 2009. Unlike the planted forests 

that surround most of Tokyo, 

its natural woodland is home to 

numerous 100-year-old cedars, 

and this biodiversity is more than 

evident when taking one of the 

hikes. Moreover, sitting on the 

border of Japan’s subtropical and 

temperate forest regions, there 

are trees of both types in the 

Takao woodlands. 

Walking through the trails, 

there’s ample opportunity to 

see the local residents, such as 

raccoons, squirrels, kingfishers 

and owls. The monkey park next 

Take the cable car if you prefer a bird’s-eye view 

FROM LEFT: Fuji 

Rock Festival; 

view of Shonan; 

Fuji Rock Festival 

funky fans; Mt 

Takao trail 

041

kamakura temple: JNto shonan: getty images 

to the Sanjo train station in Takao 

has 50 Japanese macaques, and is 

perfect for children. 

The views of Mt Tsukaba and 

the sprawling metropolis of Tokyo 

from the observation deck are 

spectacular, especially at night, 

when the iridescent blue of the 

city lights are on full display. Beer 

Mount, a beer garden open during 

the summer months, has brilliant 

night views and offers a familyfriendly 

environment. 

For a more exclusive ambience, 

Ukai Toriyama offers an 

unforgettable culinary experience. 

Famous for its char-grilled 

chicken, meals here are served in 

traditional cottages by kimonoclad 

waitresses. The expansive 

gardens are embellished with 

carp-filled ponds and, from June 

to mid-August, the grounds are 

filled with fireflies — their glowing 

bodies illuminate the garden, 

creating an atmosphere that 

is ethereal. 

take me there 

Bills shichirigahama 

Weekend house alley 2F, 

1-1-1 shichirigahama, 

kamakura, 

tel: +81 (0467) 392 244 

earth Festival 

www.kodo.or.jp/ec 

easy surF school 

tel: +81 (0467) 555 702 

LEFT/RIGHT: 

Kamakura temple; 

make the most 

of Shonan’s 

coastline 

hot spot // 

SurferS' playground 

South-west of Tokyo along the coast are some of 

Japan’s best beaches, with quality breaks to satisfy 

any intrepid surfer. Kanagawa prefecture is home 

to numerous stellar surf beaches, such as Osaki, 

Tamaishi, Inamuragasaki and Shichiragahama, all 

in close proximity to Tokyo. Shonan — the name 

given to the coastal area in between Oiso and Hayama 

beaches — is one of the trendiest neighbourhoods in 

Japan, and the region hosts many celebrity residents 

who enjoy the easy commute to Tokyo (only 20 

minutes to Shinagawa) and the high quality of life. 

Many of the Shonan beaches have kilometres of 

bike paths, while surf beaches such as Kegenuma 

boasts stunning views of Mt Fuji — the silhouette 

of Japan’s most iconic natural landmark at 

sunset is breathtaking. Beachside cafés offer 

chic yet unpretentious hangouts; such as Bills 

Shichiragahama, famous for its gorgeous breakfasts. 

The Times of London calls Aussie chef Bill Granger’s 

scrambled eggs “the best in the world”, although their 

fluffy ricotta hotcakes are also divine. 

Seaside Kamakura is one of the most popular 

day trips out of Tokyo, lauded for its spectacular 

temples, gardens and historical buildings — a legacy 

of the Kamakura era (1185–1333), when it was the 

South-west of Tokyo are some of Japan’s best beaches 

043

hot spot 

political centre of Japan. While 

most tourists come to marvel at 

the towering big Buddha statue, 

there’s also a lively surf scene with 

a laid-back, Californian-style vibe. 

The neighbouring Enoshima 

beaches boast rolling swells, 

long-boarders, beach bars and 

summer-long parties with DJs and 

sun-tanned Tokyoites dancing 

to dub and house music in board 

shorts and bikinis on the sand. 

Even if you come unprepared, 

Shonan has many surf rental 

shops, as well as surf schools such 

as Shonan Surfin School and Easy 

Surf School for the uninitiated. 

Veteran surfers like Ry Beville, 

a Yokohama-based editor and 

photographer, says that the best — 

or for him, the only — time to surf 

in Shonan is during a typhoon 

or storm swell, when there are 

overhead breaks and even tubes. 

“The amateurs stay out of the 

water then, and it’s good surfing,” 

he tells me. “I sometimes go just 

a town over, to Zushi, where the 

break off the cape is nice, it tends 

to be fairly empty.” 

044 

Take me TheRe 

FuJi Rock FesTiVal 

fujirockfestival.com 

sonan suRFin school 

shonan-surfinschool.jp 

ukai ToRiyama 

3426 minamiasakawa, 

hachioji, Tokyo, 

tel: +81 (042) 661 0739 

yakuo-in Temple 

2177 Takao-machi, 

hachioji city, Tokyo, 

tel: +81 (042) 661 1115 

Jetstar has great low fares 

to Tokyo. Visit Jetstar.com 

to book. 

LEFT/RIGHT: The 

Niigata hillside 

turns into a 

village of tents; 

the crowd is fun 

and friendly 

Rock 'til you dRop 

If partying, rather than beaching, is your style, Fuji 

Rock Festival (27–29 July) is the ultimate summer 

festival, featuring over 200 musicians over a three-day 

period and attracting over 100,000 people. This year’s 

headliners are the acclaimed British bands Radiohead 

and The Stone Roses, although the line-up typically 

includes both international and Japanese acts. 

The festival takes over a ski field in Niigata 

prefecture, north of Tokyo. It’s here that the hillside 

turns into a village of tents. However, this is no 

Glastonbury — many of the tents on display are 

high-tech affairs, decked out with mod-cons such as 

portable kitchens. There are over 10 stages, as well as 

side attractions such as teepees for drummers, and 

the festival is surprisingly family-friendly — a kid’s 

area has rides for the young ones. 

Niigata prefecture is also rich with its own local 

festivals such as the Gion Kashiwazaki festival, from 

24–26 July, where you can enjoy folk dancing and a 

fireworks display. This year is also the 25th anniversary 

of the Earth Celebration, an explosive three-day kodo 

taiko drum festival held from 17–19 July on the island 

of Sado, 50km north of Niigata. While the Echigo- 

Tsumari Triennial is a highly regarded art fair which 

starts on 29 July and runs for 51 days. Hundreds of 

artworks and installations from local and international 

artists are exhibited across 200 villages. 

fuji rock festival: TokyoFashion.com

photo: getty images 

48 HRS // 

a w e e k e n d 

i n t h e 

w i n dy c i t y 

Zip across the ditch for a weekend of 

adventure by day and partying by night 

in the happening town of Auckland 

words Matt Cleary 

047

48 HRS 

Auckland has branded itself 

an “urban oasis”, with adventure 

by day and parties by night 

048 

BELOW: Abseiling 

down a waterfall 

is all part of the 

adventure that 

Auckland offers 

uckland put on its party face 

A 

for last year’s Rugby World 

Cup and locals and visitors are 

still reaping the benefits. This 

cosmopolitan city of 1.5 million 

people has a multitude of funky bars, fine 

restaurants and crisp, alfresco night action. 

Yet within 45 minutes of the CBD you can 

surf, hike, quad-bike, golf, bungee, taste 

wine, leap about in canyons, and wander 

around farmers’ markets tasting a selection 

of salami, cheese and beer. Auckland 

has branded itself an “urban oasis”, with 

adventure by day and parties by night. And 

at three hours’ flight from eastern Australia, 

it makes a heck of a fine destination for a 

long weekend. Let us count the ways. 

fridAy 

6.25 

pm A few short hours 

after clocking off at 

work my wife and I are on flight 

JQ203, Sydney to Auckland, 

enjoying Hunter Valley semillon. 

In Auckland, we check-in to Hotel 

DeBrett, an iconic landmark that 

fell on hard times but has been 

“stylishly reinterpreted” into a 

funky sort of 1960s cat-house 

for the well-heeled with just 25 

luxurious rooms. It’s a place that 

oozes cool: the chairs are cool, 

the light-fittings are cool, even 

the carpet is cool. It makes you 

feel cool just being in it. We enjoy 

a nightcap in the busy little bar 

on the corner (the aptly named 

“cornerbar”) then sleep between 

crisp white sheets.

city 

LEVEL 4 

73 YORK STREET 

SYDNEY NSW 2000 

P. 02 8065 1707 

INFO@XTENDBARRESYDNEY.COM.AU

48 HRS 

050 

saturday 

8am After a breakfast of tea, toast and 

chunky, home-made muesli we’re off to 

the Matakana Farmers Market, 45 minutes 

north of the CBD. Here, we sing along with 

a jolly busker; eat two dozen Mahurangi 

River oysters (because at NZ$7.50/AU$5.80 

a dozen it would be quite remiss not to) 

with soy, chilli and ginger; taste local 

cheeses and salamis; sample local beers 

(particularly enjoying the 12-Guage pilsner, 

described as “Keith Richards in a bottle”); 

eat buffalo burgers and whitebait fritters. 

The market is buzzing with folks tasting 

and buying and sauntering around. There 

are characters with big bushy beards, puffy 

hats, waist-jackets adorned with baubles 

and colourful shoes. It has the feel of a gold 

town from the 19th century, the buildings 

all timber and corrugated iron. In fact, if 

you had a vision in your mind’s eye of the 

perfect farmers’ market, it would almost 

look exactly like Matakana Farmers Market. 

am Next, it’s Brick Bay Wines 

11where we wander along 

the outdoor sculpture trail and 

through silver fern rainforest. 

We stumble upon incongruous 

art-bits, such as “Awaiting 

Transportation” — otters made 

from phosphor bronze dressed 

in their Sunday best. In the open 

café (known as The Glass House 

given its dominant material) we 

taste some pinot gris with “pear 

and white peach aromas, a touch 

of spice and impressive texture 

and length”. There’s a rosé made 

of sauvignon blanc, merlot and 

malbec with “hints of stone fruit 

TOP/BELOW: Enjoy 

a game of golf with 

views; sample some 

of the best tipples at 

Brick Bay Wines 

take me tHere 

1885 Britomart 

27 Galway St, 

auckland, 

tel: +64 (9) 551 3100 

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Sky city auckland, 

cnr Victoria and Federal Sts, 

tel: +64 (9) 363 6000 

Brick Bay WineS and 

Sculpture trail 

arabella lane, 

Warkworth, 

tel: +64 (9) 425 4690 

caFé Hanoi 

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Sts, Britomart, 

tel: +64 (9) 302 3478 

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tel: +64 (9) 834 0501 

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take me there 

Gulf harbour 

Country Club 

180 Gulf harbour Dr, 

Whangaparaoa, 

tel: +64 (9) 428 1380 

hotel Debrett 

2 high St, 

auckland, 

tel: +64 (9) 925 9000 

matakana VillaGe 

farmerS marketS 

2 matakana Valley rd, 

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matakana Coast, 

tel: +61 (0)21 1414 308 

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Viaduct harbour, 

tel: +64 (9) 965 1944 

and mocha”. Both are very good, and a fine 

accompaniment to the platter of cheese, 

pâté, cold meats and parmesan dips. 

1pm We then head to Gulf Harbour 

Country Club where we meet Colin of 

Golf Vacations NZ. While my wife steams 

away toxins in the sauna, spa and pool, 

Colin and I knock a golf ball around nine of 

Gulf Harbour’s tightly-mown, manicured 

fairways and greens. Bordered by mature, 

native trees and with striking views over 

Maori Bay, it’s the 10th-ranked course 

in New Zealand and terrific value for 

golf hounds. The par-4 sixteenth is the 

signature piece, with a drive over a gorge, 

the ocean to the right, and a dog-leg fairway 

that slopes left to right. It’s a beast, and I’m 

delighted with par. 

5pm Dressed in overalls, I’m attached to 

a long, steel cable high above Auckland 

and shuffling out towards the edge of the 

Auckland SkyTower, gripping the rail 

tightly. “Don’t look down,” comes the advice 

before I do just that and feel the jolt of fear. 

I’m all dressed up and out this far and it’s 

too late to back out now. So I stand on the 

edge and gaze down at Auckland, 192m 

Café Hanoi is a fine, bubbling nosh 

house where after-work folks take 

meals on stools the Vietnamese way 

LEFT/RIGHT: A spot of 

sailing on the Auckland 

Harbour; Café Hanoi 

below. And then I’m off. After 20 

metres of “flight” I jolt to a halt and 

dangle like Spiderman, wriggling 

about as tourists take photos of 

the tea bag in space. And then I’m 

dropped and I roar, “AAAA,” and 

I’m falling-laughing-screaming, 

the video camera tracking my 

journey down. Some seconds later 

I land on a bull’s eye, thrilled and 

flushed — and quite pleased to be 

reacquainted with Auckland. 

8pm Dinner is at Café Hanoi in 

the new and cool Britomart 

district. This is a fine, bubbling 

nosh house where after-work 

folks take meals on stools the 

Vietnamese way while others sit 

around tables, doing their best 

with chopsticks. It’s all lime, 

tamarind, chilli, lemongrass, mint, 

coriander, dill and Asian basil. 

Signature dishes include pho bo 

broth, caramelised pork hot pot 

and “shaking beef”. Lovely food 

in a buzzy setting, in a must-visit 

part of town which is all-hours 

new-vogue bars, hip live music, 

cool and sophisticated eating, 

and folks wandering its lanes and 

terraces living large. 

48 HRS // 

053

48 HRS 

sunday 

8am Today we’re off to the backwoods 

behind Piha Beach, 45 minutes from 

Auckland’s CBD. We tuck our bits into 

full wetsuits, helmets and rock-hopping 

joggers, and learn abseiling manoeuvres 

from our guide, Cam. We hike up through 

a rainforest of silver ferns that Maori from 

the olden days turned upside down to 

guide them by night. Then we jump in the 

river to try canyoning. We navigate ravines 

and waterfalls, wade through crystal pure 

waters. We pass through chutes, crevasses, 

moss-lined cold-rock corridors, smiling 

like kids in on a secret. Ready for abseiling? 

It’s tricky so early in the day. But by the 

third one, a 40m sheer drop by a cascading 

torrent of white water, I’m pushing off the 

rock face and getting some air. It’s cool fun. 

pm From here, we head to 

1.30Auckland Harbour and a quick 

lunch at the Viaduct which bustles with 

chic bars, restaurants and cafés. Soon we’re 

aboard NZ41, the yacht that contested the 

1995 America’s Cup — which today, like 

a Melbourne Cup runner used for pony 

rides, takes folks out on two-hour sails. 

It’s all rigging and ropes, pulleys and sails. 

This is a racing vessel with only small 

modifications for passenger comfort. With 

054 

Delectable sushi 

at Ebisu 

the spinnaker up and the ropes 

taut, it’s windy, salty fun — and 

something of a work-out given 

passengers are expected to pull 

their weight on the winches. They 

even let you steer it. 

6pm That night we return to 

Britomart because it would 

be a shame not to visit again. We 

have some drinks at Northern 

Steamship, which 130 years ago 

was headquarters of the Northern 

Steamship Company of New 

Zealand, but today serves many 

cold beers in a quirky, eclectic 

setting. Later we dine on sushi, 

sashimi and puffy pods of delicious 

lightly battered scallops at Ebisu, a 

contemporary Japanese restaurant. 

9pm Afterwards, it’s a nightcap 

at the 1885 Britomart bar. It’s 

like a chunk of super-hip New 

York dumped in downtown 

Auckland — multiple levels, 

massive wine and cocktail list, live 

music and DJs — and the place to 

be. In every sense, Auckland is 

kicking goals and winning. 

Jetstar has great low fares to Auckland. 

Visit Jetstar.com to book.

ADRENALINE 

056 

photo: Perisher ski resort

let it snow 

This winter, embrace all the fun and enjoyment that only a holiday in the snowy 

mountains can offer. Here, we cover New South Wales’ best family ski resorts 

Words Craig Tansley 

Perisher Ski Resort is fun 

for the whole family 

057

ADRENALINE 

PERISHER 

Perisher is Australia’s answer to North 

America’s super snow resorts — there’s 

1,245ha of ski terrain and 49 chairlifts to 

access every one of those hectares. It’s by 

far Australia’s largest ski resort and it’s the 

perfect ski destination for families because 

it offers plenty of the right type of terrain 

for every member of the family, no matter 

what their ability. While 80% is designed 

for beginners to intermediates, 20% of the 

resort is classified advanced with some of the 

best steep skiing options in Australia. What’s 

more, because Perisher has four separate 

ski areas, you can choose which mountain 

best suits your ability (get to Guthega if 

you’re advanced and would like to leave the 

beginners behind). For experts, there are also 

plenty of back-country options. Perisher has 

one of Australia’s best half-pipes and four 

varying levels of terrain parks. 

Perisher has some of the 

best steep skiing options 

058 

TAkE mE THERE 

PERISHER 

Tel: 1300 655 811, 

perisher.com.au 

All guests receive a free 

afternoon of lift access 

on all three day-plus 

lift tickets and beginner 

lift-and-lesson packages 

throughout the entire 

season. There’s also 

savings on mid-week 

packages during peak 

season in July and August. 

It also offers families many 

options off-piste. It has over 

100km of cross-country skiing 

trails weaving through the 

adjoining national park, while 

families can also take a range of 

half-day snow-shoe guided tours. 

Perisher is also home to Tube 

Town — a tube park with groomed 

high-speed runs serviced by 

two rope-tow lifts, with one ride 

costing AU$6 or five for AU$27. 

Most guests who ski at Perisher 

stay overnight at Jindabyne, 45 

minutes’ drive away, which has 

a large range of accommodation 

and dining options (minimise 

driving time by catching the 

Perisher offers families a range of 

ski-in, ski-out accommodation options 

Skitube, which is a 20-minute 

drive from Jindabyne). However, 

Perisher offers families a range 

of ski-in, ski-out accommodation 

options from budget to five-star. 

The advantage is you’ll be staying 

in the snow and can walk to 

restaurants and bars in the village, 

plus Perisher holds night-skiing 

on Front Valley on Tuesday and 

Saturday evenings. 

Lift tickets cost AU$112 for adults and 

AU$62 for children, great savings for 

multi-day tickets are available online.

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ADRENALINE 

060 

On a powder day, 

Thredbo’s the best place to 

be in Australasia 

THREDBO 

Thredbo is New South Wales’ most 

complete family ski resort — it’s all 

here, a lively ski village with a range of 

family restaurants and activities from 

Olympic-sized indoor swimming pools 

to weekly fi reworks displays — and don’t 

forget Thredbo has one of the country’s 

best-equipped beginner ski areas with 

ski classes for children from three to six, 

seven to 14, and 13 to 18 (at Friday Flat). It’s 

also the closest thing New South Wales 

has to a traditional European-style ski 

village — Thredbo’s picturesque ski village 

was modelled on the Tyrolean (Austrian) 

villages that Thredbo’s founders originated 

from. The best thing about Thredbo is once 

you arrive, you can park the car and walk 

everywhere — everything is close at hand. 

So beginner skiers and boarders are well 

catered for, but what about experts? Well, 

that’s where Thredbo comes into its own. It 

has Australia’s longest and steepest ski runs 

and on a powder day it’s the best place to be 

in Australasia. Thredbo’s back-country ski 

options off er some of the best steep skiing in 

the southern hemisphere — skiable terrain 

TAKE ME THERE 

THREDBO 

Tel: 1300 020 589, 

thredbo.com.au 

Thredbo is introducing 

all season discounts 

for anyone buying lift 

tickets online through 

the Thredbo eStore. Buy 

a multi-day lift ticket and 

enjoy a bonus half-day of 

skiing (which can be used 

on the aft ernoon before 

your ticket begins) and 

free use of the Thredbo 

Leisure Centre during 

Value Season. 

can be found all the way up to 

nearby Mt Kosciuszko, the highest 

mountain in Australia. Thredbo 

also has terrain parks for every 

ability of skier and boarder. 

There’s more to do off -piste 

at Thredbo than at any other 

ski resort in Australia. Thredbo 

Village has a huge variety of cafés, 

restaurants and retail stores within 

a short walk of each other. Families 

have many off -snow options at the 

Leisure Centre from swimming, 

waterslides and fi tness classes to 

fully equipped gyms and squash. 

Mountain bikes can be hired to ride 

throughout the village and down 

Thredbo’s renowned downhill 

tracks, even in winter. There’s 

also free night skiing ’til 7.30pm 

on Friday Flat on Thursday and 

Saturday evenings during July 

and August, and a “fl are run” 

down Thredbo on Saturday nights 

followed by fi reworks. 

Lift tickets for one day cost AU$110 

for adults and AU$62 for children, 

great savings for multi-day tickets are 

available online. 

TOP/BOTTOM: Enjoy fresh 

tracks at Thredbo; 

best friends forever

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NSW Ballina • Bankstown • Bondi Junction • Broadway • Campbelltown • Castle Hill • Chatswood 

Coffs Harbour • Dee Why • Eastgardens • Hornsby • Macquarie Park • Miranda • Newcastle 

Parramatta • Penrith • Sydney City • Wollongong 

VIC Airport West • Brighton • Brunswick • Dandenong • Doncaster • Ferntree Gully • Frankston • Geelong 

Kew • Maribyrnong • Mentone • Mooroolbark • Mount Waverley • Narre Warren • Port Melbourne 

Preston • Ringwood • South Morang • South Yarra 

SA Findon • Modbury • Norwood • Rundle Mall ACT Belconnen • Woden SA Launceston

SELWYN 

Selwyn is the ideal ski resort for a family on 

their first ski holiday; in fact it’s considered 

the premier learn-to-ski family snow 

recreation area in Australia. Only 12% of the 

mountain is graded difficult with the rest of 

the mountain devoted entirely to beginners 

with loads of easy, flat terrain and a huge 

team of ski instructors suited to everyone 

in the family — from 18-month-olds and up. 

There’s also a terrain park, with skiers and 

boarders able to purchase an inexpensive 

Terrain Park Only ticket for AU$25 per day. 

It’s also what Selwyn offers aside from its 

beginner-friendly ski slopes that makes the 

resort a family favourite. You can experiment 

with a completely different sort of skiing 

while taking in the stunning scenery of 

the Kosciuszko National Park on 45km of 

marked cross-country trails. Or try snow 

tubing at Selwyn’s two designated snow 

TakE mE ThErE 

SELWYN 

Tel: +61 (2) 6454 9488, 

selwynsnow.com.au 

Selwyn is offering midweek 

Peak Season (16 July 

to 2 September) lift tickets 

at Value Season prices. 

What’s more, children ride 

and hire gear for free with 

every adult. 

ADRENALINE // 

Boarders on the friendly 

slopes of Selwyn 

tube tracks at Snowflake Snowtube 

Park where five runs cost AU$23 

or 10 runs cost AU$40, or go 

tobogganing for AU$10 per day 

at Toboggan Park, or try the sport 

of snow biking — riding purposebuilt 

bikes down the slopes! 

Selwyn has packages for skiers 

and snowboarders of all ages and 

abilities, from Mighty Mites (three 

and four year olds) to Mega Mites 

(five or six year olds). There’s also 

Snow World, which caters for 

toddlers from 18 months old. 

There’s no accommodation 

beside the ski-fields but families 

can stay at the close-by towns of 

Adaminaby and Talbingo. 

Lift tickets until 2 September cost 

aU$82 for adults and aU$45 for 

children; after 3 September, adult 

one-day passes cost aU$62 and 

children aU$34. 

Try snow tubing at Selwyn’s two 

designated snow tube tracks 

063

ADRENALINE 

Perisher’s Tube Town 

flurry of fun 

Wiki Jones 

“Thredbo’s runs 

are so awesome on 

powder days but I 

love the parks too. Thredbo’s my 

home away from home, there’s 

no other place in the world like it. 

Friends, the people, the vibe — it’s 

just a special place. It’s so much 

more than just a ski resort.” 

Jillian Whyte 

“I love Selwyn’s 

friendly 

atmosphere. I love 

that great friends keep returning 

each winter from all over the 

world and all over Australia — 

it’s always like a big reunion 

every season!” 

064 

Melissa ketvoic 

“Nothing beats 

Perisher with 

your mates in the 

sunshine. Whether you feel like 

free-riding or spending some time 

in the park, there’s heaps to choose 

from. There are four resort areas 

to explore and get lost in.” 

Jetstar has great low fares to sydney. 

visit Jetstar.com to book. 

photos: Perisher ski resort

2STRONG 

SNOW GEAR & ACCESSORIES 

kaossnow.com 

WIN 

WORTH OF 

KAOS 

$1500 

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GO TO 

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HURRY! COMPETITION 

ENDS 20 JULY 2012.

Budget’s Winter Bargain Bonanza 

Rush to the Budget counter when you land. 

As a Jetstar passenger you can find wild winter deals during July! Visit the 

Budget counter when you land to find out how you can drive your dollar further. 

Plus you can earn Qantas Frequent Flyer points on eligible rentals.* 

*Membership and points are subject to the Qantas Frequent Flyer program terms and conditions. A joining fee may apply. 

Visit Qantas.com/cars for more information. BUDG1103_JS

For For a a thrilling thrilling carnival carnival day day with with the the Balinese Balinese locals, locals, head head to to 

Mekepung, the absorbing buffalo race held in the far west 

Words and photography Putu Sayoga 

in focus // 

067

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W W W While hile most tourists in Bali are 

Mekepung 

TOP: 

While most tourists in Bali are 

Wbusy busy hitting the sand on the 

island’s southern beaches, a 

few reward themselves with 

authentic Balinese village 

entertainment. One such 

diversion can be found at Jembrana, a district in the 

far western region of the island. Jembrana District 

is well known as the gateway to Java by sea, with 

its port in Gilimanuk in the westernmost point of 

Bali. The port is always full of traffic, with ferry 

ships perpetually crossing the Bali strait to dock at 

Banyuwangi, East Java, and vice versa. 

Mekepung — literally meaning “to chase around” 

— is a race among water buffalo steered by jockeys. 

The race is said to have first appeared in the 1930s. 

Originally, it was designed as a fun game for peasants 

to pass their free time when harvest time ended, and 

as they waited for the start of the planting season. In 

the 1960s, the two groups which had competed up to 

this time were officially named. They were grouped 

according to the flow of the Ijo Gading River, which 

divides Jembrana into rival factions. 

There emerged the Ijo Gading Barat 

Team, with a red flag that was located on the 

west bank of the river, and the Ijo Gading 

Timur Team, with the green flag which was 

situated on the eastern bank. Since then, 

the sport has become an addictive passion 

for almost every Jembrana local. In the 

’90s, this excitement was transformed into 

an official competitive race, and today the 

Mekepung is a prestigious tournament, 

contested over a seasonal series, with the 

Jembrana Regent’s Cup at stake. Like Moto 

GP or Formula 1, it’s run on several circuits 

specifically designed for mekepung, such as 

the Delod Berawah Circuit. 

To watch Mekepung, it’s best to visit 

Jembrana from early June until October. 

This race period is always chosen to 

coincide with the end of harvest. Today, 

the sport’s fame has spread throughout 

Jembrana District, which is why Jembrana 

in focus // 

was originally designed 

as a fun game for peasants 

The race in 

full swing with the 

green team 

069

in focus 

LEFT/RIGHT: 

Headgear for the 

buffalo; a prized 

buffalo adorned 

and ready to race 

070 

is now known as Bumi Mekepung — 

literally “the Land of Mekepung”. 

The action starts early morning, when the 

contestants of Mekepung and their officials 

get busy unloading the buffalo from their 

vessels. They dress up their best buffalo 

as if they were going to march them in a 

splendid folk parade around the village. 

The Balinese like to embed decoration and 

celebration so much into their daily life 

that it has come to represent their lively 

personalities. It’s also reflected when they 

unpack the bullock cart to be attached to 

the pair of costumed buffalo. The carts are 

fashioned with local embellishments, and 

painted with flashy colours like red, yellow 

and brilliant blue. 

After being adorned with dancers’ 

accoutrements such as the gelungan (head 

cover) and badong (neck cover), the buffalo 

begin to look much like Balinese dancers. 

Their horns are also beautified with 

colourful slippers and, when all together, 

the buffaloes are a display of eccentric 

It’s very dramatic as the air 

fills with dust and the 

buffalo speed past the track 

pageantry. To join together each pair of buffalo for 

the race, the officials buckle up a lampit, a wooden 

piece carved with Balinese patterns and shaped like 

a dragon in blue or red. Each jockey who rides on a 

pair of buffalo is dressed in a simple traditional outfit 

and wears a udeng, a famous Balinese headband for 

men. The atmosphere enveloping the jockeys and 

their swashbuckling animals is that of a charming 

colourful fiesta. 

Today, there are four groups of contestants ready to 

do battle. Mekepung begins when the umpire waves 

a red flag in the air: the buffalo are released and the 

contest begins. The furious beasts start to chase each 

other, with the jockeys shouting and whipping the 

backsides of the buffalo to increase their speed. It’s 

very dramatic as the air fills with dust and the buffalo 

race past the track. Most of the tracks are constructed 

in a “U” shape, between 2 and 3km in length and built 

upon solid dirt. My heart is soon beating fast as the 

buffalo teams come thundering along, hooves and 

dust flying, jockeys shouting. 

To get a good view of the finale, I move to the stage 

area. Here, I meet Wijaya, a diehard Mekepung fan.

in focus 

He has a round, happy face that comes alive when he 

cheers for his favourite contestant. I immediately like 

him because he is so welcoming as I ask everything 

about the sport. Back at the track, one by one the 

contestants race across the finish line. But it’s rather 

difficult to determine who the winner is; Mekepung 

doesn’t apply the common rules of racing, where 

the first one to enter the finish line is automatically 

crowned the champion. 

According to Wijaya, the winner is not determined 

just by who is first past the finishing line, but also the 

distance between the animals racing. Before the race 

begins, buffalo are positioned on the starting line, 

with the space between them as far as 10m. The first 

to cross the finishing line wins if they can maintain 

a distance of 10m or more from the second-fastest 

buffalo; if not, the animal that comes in second will 

win the race. I was lucky to meet Wijaya; because of 

his knowledge of Mekepung rules I could enjoy the 

race to the fullest. 

One jockey, on arriving at the finishing line, 

jumped from the cikar (horse cart) and ran 

screaming, as if in a trance. Soon, his friends 

appeared to secure him. The spectators were 

absorbed by the scenario, curious as to what had 

happened. Wijaya soon explained to me what was 

going on. He believed the behaviour was due to the 

072 

Mekepung doesn’t apply apply the the 

common rules of racing 

amulet carried by the jockey. It’s commonly 

heard that a tight race makes the owners of 

the buffalo use a variety of “black magic” 

ways to win the race. 

After all the thrilling rounds were 

finished, the buffalo were washed and taken 

home by truck to be prepared again for the 

next series. The costumes and equipment 

were packed up, kept in their case for next 

time. Locals were filled with awe as they 

chatted about Mekepung on their way 

home, as if they couldn’t wait for the next 

series. Gradually over the afternoon, people 

left the race venue and the noise faded away 

too, until it would rise again for the next 

thrilling race. 

Jetstar has great low fares to Bali. Visit 

Jetstar.com to book. 

The contestants 

enjoy a refreshing 

bath after the race

INDULGE 

Swim with a whale shark 

at Ningaloo Reef 

074 

It’s an experience I’ll remember for a 

lifetime — swimming with the whale sharks 

at Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia 

Words Stephanie WilliamS 

photo: james morgan

y heart is pounding 

M 

and my legs are 

kicking furiously as 

we give chase to find 

a seven-metre whale 

shark we’ve spotted on Ningaloo 

Reef, Western Australia’s 

UNESCO World Heritage-listed 

marine park. The deep blue ocean 

has become a sea of flailing arms, 

legs and fins as we jostle for our 

first glimpse of the beast. 

My head drops underwater 

and I’m suddenly face to face 

with a 10-tonne whale shark 

bearing down upon me with its 

metre-wide mouth gaping open. 

Unprepared for the sheer size of 

it, I’m frozen like Bambi in the 

headlights. But not for long; I 

snap out of my trance when our 

guide from Ocean Eco Adventures 

urgently tugs at my fins and 

motions to get back. 

The whale shark begins to 

slowly circle our small group, as 

I try to swim backwards out of 

the three-metre exclusion zone. It 

gracefully completes its arc and 

we begin to follow behind. 

075

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• Australia’s largest aquarium and underwater tunnel 

• Giant sharks, stingrays and turtles 

• Beautiful living coral reefs 

• Interactive fun 

• Licensed café and exclusive gift shop 

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Tel: 08 9447 7500 | www.aqwa.com.au 

put 

in your pocket! 

download the free 

AQWA app today!

coral: Sail NiNgaloo whale sharks: JamES martEN-CoNEy 

Explore the huge expanse 

of corals BELOW: Whale 

sightings at Exmouth 

Whale sharks are harmless, but 

they can power through the water 

making it hard to keep up. Or — 

on a day like today — one might 

leisurely swim close to the surface, 

allowing you to get a great look. 

Captivated by the majestic 

whale shark, I only tear my eyes 

away when I accidentally suck 

seawater into my snorkel in the 

excitement. It’s a blessing though, 

as the spotters on the boat yell 

“there’s another one to your left”. 

My head goes back down and 

I’m in a whale shark sandwich 

— trailing our original shark at 

the same time as being circled by 

another six-metre creature. You 

often see more than one shark in a 

day, but I’m later told it’s very rare 

to see two swimming together. 

Whale sharks appear every year 

from late March until August/ 

September near the surface to feed 

on krill at Ningaloo Marine Park, 

one of only a few places around the 

world where you swim with them. 

Ningaloo Reef is Australia’s 

largest fringing coral reef and 

reaches a lengthy 260km along 

the coast. Whale sharks, which 

can grow up to 16m long, are the 

stars of the reef but there’s so 

much more to explore. On any 

given day you may see manta 

rays, turtles, dugongs, reef 

sharks, stingrays, huge gropers, 

thousands upon thousands of 

coloured fish of all sizes, soft coral, 

hard coral… it’s endless. 

The reef covers a few areas, each 

with their own draw cards. We 

drove the 1,200km from Perth to 

the town of Exmouth and began 

our journey there. 

Exmouth really 

is about the 

whale sharks 

and having an 

incredible day out 

INDULGE // 

Exmouth 

Situated on the North West Cape, 

the peninsula of land halfway up 

the coast of WA, Exmouth feels like 

a world away. Barren, red, dusty 

earth meets shallow turquoise 

water. Locals are friendly and fun, 

and thongs are all you need. It’s a 

very laid-back town. 

Exmouth began in 1964 as a 

naval base, when the Americans 

came in to set up huge submarine 

communication towers (which 

are still active) and flew 3,000 

servicemen in to work on the now 

disused base. 

One of the legacies of their time 

is the Navy Pier, which is now 

consistently voted one of the top 10 

dive sites in the world. Wes from 

Ningaloo Whaleshark-n-Dive, the 

only company allowed out on the 

Pier, took my travel buddy out to 

dive. He reported back, “That was an 

amazing dive. Everywhere you look 

something’s moving. I put my hand 

077

cape range cational park: James marTeN-CoNey Marinelife: sail NiNgaloo 

down on a rock for just a second 

and an octopus started wrapping 

itself around my fingers! I looked 

up and saw the huge two-metre 

groper, known as the Big Fat Groper. 

I also saw loads of reef sharks, 

wobbegongs, turtles and lionfish.” 

He even went back to dive the Pier 

again, so it must have been good! 

Exmouth really is about the 

whale sharks and having an 

incredible day out on the water. 

There are a few companies 

offering tours, depending on 

your budget. We chose Ocean 

Eco Adventures — owners Andy 

Edwards and Marnie Hunt have 

been whale sharking for 17 years 

and have a private whale shark 

spotter plane. This allows them to 

find their own whalesharks and 

marine life, rather than following 

the other operators in the area. 

Groups of up to 20 people, aged 

from nine years, cater to all levels 

of fitness and ability; there was 

even a lady with a broken ankle 

in our group! They provide all the 

gear and run a tight ship to get you 

all in and out of the water quickly 

throughout the day once sharks 

and manta rays are spotted. 

Discover colourful 

marinelife TOP: Walk the 

Cape Range National Park 

Take me There 

Bayview Coral Bay 

Tel: +61 (8) 9385 6655 

exmouTh esCape resorT 

Tel: +61 (8) 9949 4800 

NiNgaloo whaleshark-N-Dive 

Tel: +61 (8) 9949 1116 

oCeaN eCo aDveNTures 

Tel: +61 (0)427 425 925 

sail NiNgaloo 

Tel: +61 (0)402 110 427 

INDULGE // 

Coral Bay 

Ninety minutes south of Exmouth 

lies Coral Bay. There’s not much 

here except crystal clear water — 

you can stay at the local caravan 

park and independently explore the 

area, or do as we did and book a few 

nights on a live-aboard catamaran. 

Luke and Lannie Riley, owners of 

Sail Ningaloo are the ultimate hosts. 

Young and vibrant, they know 

Ningaloo Reef inside out. 

At “Lannie’s Lumps”, I dropped in 

over a huge endangered Loggerhead 

turtle while my travel buddy 

dived below with a guitar-nosed 

shark. The “Fish Bowl” is where I 

encountered my first white-tipped 

reef shark. Then enroute to our next 

snorkel, Luke spotted a lone manta 

ray, so we jumped in to watch as 

it gracefully danced through the 

shallow water with us in tow. It was 

incredible to be only metres from 

such a beautiful creature. 

The freedom of roaming on the 

boat was the ultimate luxury, not 

to mention the very comfortable 

cabins on the Shore Thing and 

Lannie’s gourmet meals. If you 

only have a few days in the region, 

a trip with Sail Ningaloo is money 

and time well spent. 

079

INDULGE 

CAPE RAngE 

nATiOnAl PARk 

In between Exmouth and Coral 

Bay lies the Cape Range National 

Park. Camping is permitted, but 

it’s advisable to book ahead, or 

take a night of bush luxury at the 

Sal Salis tented resort. 

The highway running through 

the park hugs the reef. It’s so easy 

to pop in for a snorkel then drive 

to the next site — try Oyster Stacks 

(at high tide), Turquoise Bay, 

Lakeside and Mildura Wreck. 

By now you may be waterlogged. 

The Mandu Mandu Gorge 

walk is excellent for rock wallaby 

spotting, while the Yardie Creek 

boat tour is a relaxing cruise up 

the only fresh waterway in the 

National Park. 

The reef is now protected by 

a World Heritage listing, which 

shows just how significant this 

marine park is. It’s an incredible 

holiday for all ages — swimming, 

snorkelling, hiking, eating seafood 

— and fast becoming one of 

Australia’s iconic destinations. 

080 

It’s so easy to pop 

in for a snorkel then 

drive to the next site 

TOP TiPS 

Only Telstra and Optus work 

in patches around Exmouth. WiFi 

is available at some cafés and 

accommodation, check ahead. 

Make sure your car is fully 

equipped and serviced for the long 

drives, including carrying sufficient 

water for everyone at all times. 

Allow an extra day in your itinerary 

in case you don’t see a whaleshark 

the first time. Some operators will 

offer an extra day for free in this case. 

There are many other marine events 

on throughout the year such as coral 

spawning and turtle hatching, check 

for details on 

www.westernaustralia.com. 

Jetstar has great low fares to Perth. 

Visit Jetstar.com to book. 

Watching the sun set 

over Ningaloo Reef 

photos: JAMES MARTEn-COnEy

CHANGE. YOU CAN. 

ICE-W RLD www.facebook.com/ice.watch

Delve into Darwin’s ancient Aboriginal past with a 

range of tours brought to life by its traditional owners 

Words Kerry Sharp 

PhotograPhy peter eve 

hub // 

083

hub 

W 

ith the tide running out 

and an hour left before 

another stunning Top 

End sunset, Larrakia man 

Roque Lee steps onto a 

freshly exposed Darwin 

Harbour sandbar and hands out the spears and 

woomeras he’s brought with him on the tour 

boat Snubfin. 

The fun-loving, traditional owner gathers his 

guests around and describes how his countrymen 

first hand-crafted and used these ancient, 

rapid-fire hunting tools to gather fish, turtles and 

other creatures — and how they still use them today 

to harvest food from the sea. 

His uncles taught him well as a boy. He hooks a 

bamboo spear along the upper edge of the wooden 

woomera, takes aim and sends a lethal weapon 

whistling through the air. It pierces the wet sand and 

quivers to a stop many metres from the enthralled 

travellers. They take up the spears to try it for 

themselves, most 

with surprisingly 

good results that 

reinforce the 

efficiency of this 

ancient hunting 

technique. For tens 

of thousands of years, the succulent fresh bounty from 

this vast tropical harbour, its tidal rivers, tributaries 

and extensive mangrove forest fringe have been a 

vital food source for the Larrakia — the traditional 

custodians of Darwin and its saltwater country. 

“The elements dictate the best place to be on the 

harbour each evening,” says Darwin-born Roque, 

a talented traditional artist with works in public 

spaces and galleries around the country. He’s one of 

14 children of Mary Lee, who was warmly embraced 

by visiting US President Barack Obama last year, as 

a survivor of World War II enemy bombing raids on 

Darwin on 19 February 1942. 

084 

“The elements dictate the 

best place to be on the 

harbour each evening” 

TOP/RIGHT: Roque Lee 

shows off his spear; 

alighting the Snubfin

hub 

“We hunted and 

collected food we needed 

from our country” 

LEFT/RIGHT: Tess Atie 

runs Northern Territory 

Indigenous Tours; 

guests at Litchfield 

National Park 

086 

“Tonight we’re 

on the Fannie Bay 

Sandbar and next 

week we’ll be on a 

beach up the back of 

the harbour.” 

Roque exudes enormous pride in his people’s 

culture and is in his element showing it to the world. 

That’s why he teamed up with Sea Darwin Cruises 

owner and skipper Jim Smith three years ago to 

present “Sunset Dreaming”. It’s a unique interactive 

encounter that starts with a traditional “Welcome 

to Saltwater Country” as the open-decked Snubfin 

leaves historic Stokes Hill Wharf enroute to the 

sandbar. Within a minute of heading off, guests 

onboard are suddenly enthralled by a family of 

humpback dolphins breaching the glassy surface. 

This 90-minute cruise comes complete with craft 

lessons in how to create unbreakable string from 

hibiscus bark, and with a bush-tucker tasting platter 

that includes barramundi dip and other land and 

sea delights. 

Sunset Dreaming is one option among a 

growing list available for global travellers to 

delve below the surface of Darwin’s rich and 

ancient Aboriginal traditions. 

Less than two hours from town in the 

spectacular Litchfield National Park, 

traditional Marthakal woman Tess Atie, 

who runs Northern Territory Indigenous 

Tours, has the bush barbecue fired up at 

Pethericks Rainforest. She’s sizzling up a 

sumptuous bush-tucker lunch of crocodile, 

barramundi, prawns and kangaroo for 

guests on her 4x4 Northern Territory 

Indigenous Tours journey into her family’s 

traditional homeland. 

Tess’s pioneering grandparents, Ray 

and Rosie Petherick, built a sawmill at 

Woolaning Spring near the park’s Wangi 

Falls in 1949 and they and her father 

Tommy hunted crocodiles in nearby rivers 

to sell their skins — until the crocs became 

protected in 1971. 

Her tangible deep affection for her 

people and this country is reflected in the 

impression her guests take home. “When 

you spoke about the land, it was as though 

you were talking about somebody you loved. 

We felt the passion you have for your home 

and the stories you told,” one enchanted 

overseas couple wrote after her tour. 

Tess started learning about Top End 

plants and animals as a very young girl 

travelling and camping with her family and 

the old people in the bush. “We hunted and 

collected food and other things we needed

kate owen gallery 

Polly Ngale 

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onteorary aoriginal art eret or your oe 

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Anna Petyarre (detail) ariella Possu Nungurrayi 

Aie oy Kearre 

INDIGENOUS 

ART CODE 

indy Nakaarra ison 

Gloria Petyarre 

ola Naijina Brown

LEFT/RIGHT: Robert 

Mills greets his guest; 

a bush-tucker platter 

from our country. 

I learnt from my 

many relatives the 

fine details of how 

plants and animals 

live, how to make 

the best use of them to live properly on this land, and 

how everything fits into the cultural side of things.” 

She drives her guests to many of Litchfield’s 

spectacular landmarks — like Wangi and Florence 

Falls, and the tombstone-like magnetic termite 

mounds — and shares an intimate insight into the 

history and culture linked to these famous places that 

now attract more than 250,000 visitors a year. 

Back in Darwin, on the shady Esplanade 

harbour-front across the road from the city’s main 

high-rise hotel and apartment strip, senior Larrakia 

man Robert Mills greets guests for his popular Batji 

Tours walk through the city’s heart. He offers it on 

demand throughout the dry season. He explains 

that Batji means both “good” and “hello” in the 

Gulu-Mirrigin language of the Darwin area. 

Guests get to see, 

feel and smell native 

plants along the way 

hub // 

Robert was born in Darwin to a Larrakia 

family and inherited the culture of four 

grandparents from different language 

groups. He speaks of the profound impact 

one revered grandfather had on his life. 

“He taught me the importance of learning 

about your roots and never forgetting your 

people’s language and culture,” he says. 

Robert, who’s also an accomplished 

musician, sets the mood with his own 

“Welcome to Country” on behalf of the 

Larrakia people. He leads guests to lofty 

vantage points overlooking the 1,000km 2 

harbour to point out culturally and 

historically significant sites. He highlights 

the abundant saltwater resources that, 

many thousands of years ago, helped 

sustain the lifestyle of much greater 

numbers of Larrakia people than the 

population living in Darwin today. 

Guests get to see, feel and smell native 

plants along the way and hear why these 

have been so important as food, medicine 

and traditional art sources for his people 

over many thousands of years. And in a 

cool, dense rainforest pocket on Lameroo 

Beach below the Esplanade cliff tops, he 

tells ancient stories about local marine 

creatures revered as totems by his people. 

Along the walk, guests stop in at the 

historic Telegraph Company station, 

Lyons Cottage. It’s now a specialised arts, 

craft and bush foods haven run by local 

cultural tourism promoters, Aboriginal 

Bush Traders. The cottage also houses an 

089

hub 

excellent photographic exhibition depicting Darwin’s 

early days as a frontier outpost, and the Larrakia 

people’s first contact with European settlers. 

Darwin city is blessed with a strong network of 

galleries housing exquisite paintings and artefacts 

from renowned artists from Arnhem Land, the Tiwi 

Islands and other Northern Territory communities. 

The Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern 

Territory gives a particularly informative insight 

into the background of Aboriginal rock art, bark 

paintings and carvings from Arnhem Land and 

island communities. The museum has dedicated a 

major space to interpretive displays and a special 

video that explains the origins of Aboriginal people, 

their artforms, traditions and culture. It also hosts 

the coveted annual Telstra National Aboriginal & 

Torres Strait Islander Art Awards and a big selection 

of entries is exhibited from August each year in the 

touring gallery. 

Meanwhile, back down on the harbour with 

Sea Darwin Cruises’ sandbar activities over and 

everyone settled aboard Snubfin for a fast-ride back 

to the wharf, Roque Lee pipes a haunting didgeridoo 

serenade from the bow to toast the blazing red sun 

sinking quietly behind him into the Beagle Gulf. It’s 

perfect for reflecting upon how Darwin’s earliest 

inhabitants, the Larrakia people, designed and created 

their own unique ways to hunt and gather bounty 

from the land and sea to survive for tens of thousands 

of years in this tropical saltwater country. 

Jetstar has great low fares to Darwin. Visit Jetstar.com to book. 

090 

take me there 

BatJi tours 

tel: 1300 881 186 

museum anD art 

Gallery of the 

northern territory 

Conacher st, Bullocky 

Point, fannie Bay, 

tel: +61 (8) 8999 8264 

northern territory 

inDiGenous tours 

tel: 1300 921 188 

sea Darwin Cruises 

tel: 1300 065 022 

TOP: The Museum 

and Art Gallery of the 

Northern Territory 

photo: tourism nt

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Whether cook, cricketer or community supporter, Matthew 

Hayden manages to hit it for six 

Words Kerry Heaney

You 

Y 

know him as a world-famous 

cricketer — the guy whose fearless 

front-foot stroke play changed the 

landscape of cricket forever. Ask 

Matthew Hayden and he’ll tell you long 

before he was a cricketer, he was a pintsized 

cook, standing by his grandmother’s 

knee learning cooking basics and the 

meaning of life the Hayden way. 

Hayden is one of the most-decorated 

opening batsmen in cricket history. He’s 

also the author of two cookbooks and the 

face of Matthew Hayden’s Home Ground, 

an intimate six-part television series that 

goes beyond growing produce, cooking and 

interviews into the story of a world-class 

cricketer choosing a new country life. Catch it 

on constant replay on the Lifestyle Channel. 

“It would be easy to see that I was a 

cricketer and now I’m a cook, but the truth 

is I’ve always been a cook, ever since I could 

remember,” Hayden says. 

“Spending time with my grandma in 

her kitchen is something I just adored as a 

child. They talk about a young cricketer’s 

role models being Allan Border and Geoff 

Thompson but my role model in life was 

my grandmother. I looked up to everything 

she did. The cook in me has always been a 

cricketer and the cricketer in me has always 

been a cook.” 

Now retired from the heady world of elite 

cricket, Hayden is grounded in Brisbane 

with his family — wife Kellie, daughter 

Grace and sons Joshua and Thomas. He’s 

also taken on a new mantra that has him 

people // 

Matthew Hayden 

devotes his time 

to his family 

and community 

093

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342a Crown Street Surry Hills NSW 2010 

Mon - Sat 10am-6pm Sun 10am-5pm 

02 9358 5553 

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learning how to live a more self-sufficient, 

sustainable and enriched lifestyle with 

his family, as viewers glimpsed in Home 

Ground, and he is also walking the talk 

through his business The Hayden Way. 

“I’m pretty conscious of food miles,” he 

says. “I try to get produce that is seasonal 

and local so it saves on unnecessary waste 

and there’s less impact on the carbon 

footprint. Produce out of my own backyard 

tastes even better because you get that great 

connection to your food. That’s what food is 

all about — connection. 

“I love cooking for my family and closest 

friends for obvious reasons. Bringing food 

to the table and celebrating life with your 

closest people around you is always sacred 

and special, especially for me as I’ve lived 

such a transient life. It really gives you a 

sense of coming home and belonging. 

“It’s great having my favourite dear friend 

Alan Jones over and sharing his passion for 

sport, his commitment to Australia through 

broadcasting and his amazing stories. Alan 

has a great love of food as well.” 

“I “I love 

love 

cooking cooking for 

for 

family family and 

and 

friends friends for 

for 

obvious 

obvious 

reasons” 

reasons” 

LEFT/RIGHT: Hayden 

in Home Ground; 

working on the Tiwi 

College project 

people // 

Despite controversies surrounding India 

during his cricketing career, Hayden also 

nominates the Indian cricket team as some 

of his favourite dinner guests. 

“It’s always challenging cooking Indian 

food for Indians, so you know you’ve got 

it right when you can you put on a spread 

and they enjoy it. I guess this just typifies 

again how food can connect communities 

and help celebrate the cross-cultural 

opportunities cricket can bring.” 

When Hayden cooks at home for his 

immediate family, the menu is simple but 

just as grounded. 

“Monday for us is pizza night,” he says. 

“It starts with me making dough from 

scratch. I make it in the morning, put it in a 

bowl with a wet tea towel over it and leave 

it out in the warmth all day to rise so it’s 

ready at night when we come home. This is 

great for the kids as well and our little ones 

pick tomatoes in the backyard to make what 

Joshua calls his ‘special tomato sauce’. 

“From my perspective, it’s all about 

remembering never to lose the generational 

095

people // 

Hayden shows 

off his cooking 

prowess in 

Home Ground 

“It’s “It’s all all about about understanding 

understanding 

the the process process of of seasons” 

seasons” 

shift and to try to pass knowledge down to our 

children. I was lucky enough to grow up on a farm 

in Kingaroy. My mission is to impart some of my 

knowledge and that skillset on to another generation 

so it never gets lost.” 

Although he’s probably already tutored his sons on 

how to hold a cricket bat, here Hayden is talking about 

simple but important skills including feeding chooks, 

milking cows, tending goats and collecting eggs. 

“It’s all about understanding the process of seasons 

and the availability of different foods at different 

times of the year.” 

Hayden’s company The Hayden Way promotes 

a lifestyle centred on community and family, social 

responsibility and sustainability through the 

celebration of sport and leisure pursuits. 

“I subscribe to the theory ‘make your vocation your 

vacation’ and my company attempts to bring together 

all my passions in life: family, food, travel, fishing, 

cricket and surfing.” 

Resting at the heart of The Hayden Way is also 

a commitment to developing young talent and 

individuals into champions in life. 

097

people 

Hayden and his family 

In the Tiwi Islands, 40km north of 

Darwin in the Arafura Sea, The Hayden 

Way, along with the Macquarie Bank 

Foundation, is three years into its support of 

Tiwi College. Hayden first came to Melville 

Island, Australia’s second largest island, 

to fish after playing Sri Lanka in a test 

match. Owned and operated by the Tiwi, 

Tiwi College aims to provide a secondary 

education for all Tiwi youth. 

“The Tiwi islands have 2,000 people, 

1,000 of whom are under 25 and only one 

person under the age of 20 has a job,” says 

Hayden. “A lot of the kids don’t want to 

leave the Tiwis and I don’t blame them.” 

“Tiwi College sits in the middle of three 

communities and children are bussed 

in to stay as weekly boarders. It has an 

attendance rate of 89.5% which, for a remote 

community, is quite extraordinary.” 

After 18 months’ work on The Hayden 

Way Garden at Tiwi College, a dry football 

field has been converted into an edible 

feast growing everything from cucumbers, 

bananas, pineapples and pumpkins to duck 

and chook sheds producing fresh eggs for 

the population. The project is a practical 

program on self-sustainability, with 

horticulture, permaculture, hospitality and 

construction lessons all built in. The project 

has been boosted by volunteer labour 

and donations in kind which has seen the 

cost of jobs, such as fencing the property, 

098 

“The “The Hayden 

Hayden 

Way Way aims aims to 

to 

inspire inspire us us to 

to 

make make a a real 

real 

difference” 

difference” 

reduced from AU$250,000 to just 

AU$40,000. 

“With the help of John Deere, 

we also bought a new industrial 

mower and Gator. The Gator 

doubles as a driving-lesson 

reward for high achieving kids 

or those smart enough to find the 

keys!” Hayden chuckles. 

One of Jetstar’s Brand 

Ambassadors, Hayden was also 

involved in Operation Sunshine, 

a project designed to assist in the 

immediate rebuild of Queensland 

following the 2011 floods. 

“Big dreams always start with 

the most basic executions. For me 

that was, for 25 years, watching 

the ball. Now, it’s The Hayden 

Way, a company with a vision to 

inspire all of us to make a real 

and sustainable difference to both 

community and country.”

Five days and nights 

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100

EAT BEAT // 

Dishing Up 

Bangkok 

See, smell, touch 

and taste the local 

ingredients at a 

Thai cooking class 

A trio of masterclasses in the 

Thai capital reveal how 

to cook scrumptious local 

dishes in three decidedly 

different environments 

words zuhara Yusoff 

photography Pablo andreolotti 

It’s a scorching 39°C in the middle of 

the afternoon and I’m at the corner of 

Silom Soi 11, waiting for my cooking 

instructor to arrive and take us on a 

tour of the local market. I’ve signed 

up for a cooking class with Silom 

Thai Cooking School, which is run 

by Sanusi Mareh, a native of southern 

Thailand. Each four-hour class starts with a 

trip to the market to buy fresh ingredients. 

Then it’s time for a hands-on session in the 

kitchen, where participants learn to whip 

up a selection of Thai dishes. 

Nusi, as he’s affectionately known, is a 

colourful character with a sense of humour 

which puts everyone at ease. The members 

of our group of 16 — mostly tourists from 

the US, Europe and Singapore — are soon 

engaging in friendly banter with him as we 

make our way to Wat Keak Market. Here, 

we’re introduced to the key ingredients of 

Thai cuisine. 

“If you don’t see, don’t smell, don’t touch, 

you’ll never really get to know these unique 

ingredients,” says Nusi as he picks up 

such typical Thai flavours as chilli, ginger, 

galangal and different types of basil, and 

puts them in our shopping baskets. “Thai 

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cooking uses a variety of fairly simple 

techniques,” he adds, “but you need to 

know the essential ingredients and how to 

choose the best and freshest items.” 

Back at the cooking school, we’re placed 

in groups and given jobs to do, from peeling 

onions and shelling prawns to cutting up 

chicken meat; nothing too complicated, if 

you’re handy in the kitchen. At the stoves 

on the open-air balcony — where all the 

cooking takes place — we’re soon whipping 

up Thai staples like tom yum goong (tom 

yum soup with prawns), gai pad med 

mamuang (chicken with cashews), kang 

khiao wan gai (green curry with chicken) 

and phanaeng gai (red curry with chicken) 

under the watchful eyes of Nusi. 

Cooking-class participant Mathilde 

Guitton, an exchange student from France, 

is an immediate convert. “It’s quite easy,” 

she says. “The dishes taste amazing, and I 

can’t wait to cook Thai for my family and 

friends back home.” Another participant, 

Lina Benitez, is equally impressed. “I’m 

from South America and Asian food is 

Nusi’s students 

get to work 

after learning about 

the ingredients 

“I love eating Thai food and I also enjoy 

cooking so I wanted to do something 

different while on holiday here” 

EAT BEAT // 

really exotic for me,” she says. 

“I love eating Thai food when in 

London, and I also enjoy cooking, 

so I wanted to do something 

different while on holiday here. 

The course meets my expectations. 

The instructor spells everything 

out really clearly for everyone.” 

Haute cuisine 

If you’re looking to cook without 

breaking a sweat and in posh 

surrounds, there’s no better place 

than the Oriental Thai Cooking 

School over at the Mandarin 

Oriental Bangkok. The experience 

begins with a short boat ride 

across the Chao Phraya River from 

the main hotel compound. 

The school is housed in a 

beautiful, single-storey wooden 

building with a little garden filled 

with pots of spearmint, lemon 

basil, holy basil, sweet basil and 

kaffir lime plants. It’s all very 

professionally run here — chef 

Narain, the cooking instructor, 

has a team of assistants who 

prepare all the ingredients in 

advance before the start of each 

session. The air-conditioned room 

is bright, spacious and spotless, 

complete with a slanted mirror 

suspended from the ceiling that 

allows those seated further back a 

better view of the lesson. 

Narain says participants tend to 

be reasonably skilled cooks even 

before signing up for the class, a 

fact reflected in the recipes offered. 

“Some dishes are quite easy, others 

can be a little time consuming or 

labour intensive,” he says. 

He starts things off by helping 

students prepare a dessert — 

gluay chuaem (glacé banana with 

coconut cream topping), which 

103

EAT BEAT 

takes some time as there are several steps 

involved. Narain offers a lot of useful tips 

— don’t use lemon in Thai cooking, use just 

the zest (not the juice) of the kaffir lime to 

increase the aroma, use the lemongrass 

bulb with the purple rings visible, add 

limewater to your batter for extra crispness. 

At times, he slips in specialised cooking 

terms, which he explains in detail. After 

each demonstration, we move to another 

section of the room for a hands-on session. 

Participants learn to cook four dishes 

in each session, and the line-up varies. 

“We change the menu every four months,” 

Narain says. “The items on our menu 

include food from certain regions of the 

country, simple dishes to cook at home and 

even royal cuisine. When our guests want 

to learn dishes that aren’t on the menu, they 

can have private classes in the afternoon.” 

At the end of the class, we all sit down to 

lunch with the chef. Our meal consists of 

tom yum goong, moo satay (grilled pork/ 

chicken with peanut sauce), khao phad 

gai (stir-fried rice with chicken) and gluay 

chuaem, all of which are delicious and 

well worth the time they took to prepare. 

Hanna, a participant from London, voices 

her approval: “It’s useful, interesting, 

professional and inspiring. It makes me 

confident enough to cook Thai at home.” 

104 

Take me TheRe 

Silom Thai Cooking SChool 

68 Silom Soi 13, Silom Rd, 

Bangrak, 

tel: +66 (8) 4726 5669, 

cost: ThB1,000 (aU$32) 

oRienTal Thai Cooking SChool 

mandarin oriental Bangkok, 

48 oriental ave, 

tel: +66 (2) 659 9000, 

cost: ThB4,000 (aU$128) 

helping handS Thai 

Cooking SChool 

meeting point: emporium Suites, 

622 Sukhumvit Rd, 

tel: +66 (2) 84 901 8717, 

cost: ThB1,200 (aU$38) 

FROM TOP: Chef Narain 

talks fruit; Poo shows 

us her award-winning 

cookbook; a fragrant bowl 

of tom yum goong 

Cooking with heart 

To lend support to a group 

of underprivileged Bangkok 

residents, sign up for a class at 

the Helping Hands Thai Cooking 

School. It’s run by Saiyuud “Poo” 

Diwong with the support of Urban 

Neighbours of Hope (UNOH), a 

Christian mission that helps the 

urban poor. 

Poo lives in Klong Toey, home to 

about 100,000 slum dwellers. She 

turned her life around a few years 

ago thanks to Helping Hands, and 

now even has a cookbook to her 

name. Cooking with Poo earned 

the dubious distinction of winning 

The Bookseller’s Diagram Prize 

for “Oddest Book Title of 2011”. 

“I would like people in my 

community to have better jobs and 

to help them achieve a better life,” 

she says. 

Poo’s cooking class starts with 

a tour of the local market. The 

cooking takes place in her kitchen 

— a modest space equipped with 

eight portable stoves and not 

much else. Participants take 

turns preparing lemongrass 

salad, a Thai omelette and 

Massaman curry. At the end of 

the session, we all tuck into my 

favourite Thai dessert — mango 

with sticky rice, prepared in 

advance by Poo’s assistant. 

Anji Barker runs UNOH, and 

has lived in the slum with her 

family for 10 years. “This area has 

improved a lot,” she says. “There’s 

a sense of community, as many 

neighbours work for Poo and join 

in the excitement.” 

Jetstar has great low fares to Bangkok, 

visit Jetstar.com to book.

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During the green season, Pimalai also off ers a comprehensive PADI 

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Sudoku 

Grab a pencil, put on your thinking cap and join the craze! 

inStructionS 

The objective of Sudoku is to fill in the 

missing squares so that each row, column and 

3x3 box contains the numbers 1 through to 9. 

To get you started, here are a few tactics... 

Scan each horizontal and vertical band 

consisting of three 3x3 boxes. It’s often 

easiest to start in a spot with the most 

numbers already given. If you can find the 

same number in two rows, you know that 

number must be in the third (the same goes 

1EASY 

5 4 

6 9 4 3 

3 6 

4 7 2 1 

3 9 1 5 

7 5 8 

1 4 7 3 9 

9 2 1 3 5 

6 

for columns). Now see which intersecting 

rows and columns can be eliminated because 

they also contain that number. (This method 

is called slicing and dicing.) 

Some Sudoku fans like to pencil in 

possible answers in the corners of individual 

squares. Once you have a few numbers filled 

in, you may also find it handy to jot down a 

list of missing numbers for each row, column 

and box. 

2ModErAtE 

8 1 

4 3 9 8 

5 7 

9 7 2 6 

7 1 8 9 

2 9 

8 1 2 4 6 3 

6 1 4 

2 ModErAtE 

2 6 3 8 5 1 9 4 7 

1 8 9 4 6 7 2 3 5 

4 7 5 3 2 9 1 6 8 

3 5 6 1 9 8 4 7 2 

9 4 8 7 3 2 5 1 6 

7 1 2 5 4 6 3 8 9 

5 2 4 6 8 3 7 9 1 

8 9 1 2 7 4 6 5 3 

6 3 7 9 1 5 8 2 4 

1 EASY 

2 5 1 3 6 7 4 8 9 

7 8 6 2 9 4 5 3 1 

4 9 3 1 8 5 7 2 6 

6 4 5 7 2 9 8 1 3 

8 3 9 6 4 1 2 5 7 

1 2 7 5 3 8 9 6 4 

5 1 8 4 7 6 3 9 2 

9 7 2 8 1 3 6 4 5 

3 6 4 9 5 2 1 7 8 

braIN TeaSerS // 

107

ain teasers 

Arroword 

Just follow the arrows to write your answers in the grid. 

Diaper 

Dog disease 

Paid 

sportsmen 

So What 

singer 

PE hall 

ART 

ADD PICTURE 

OF 

SCARLETT 

JOHANSSON 

Jerusalem’s 

hill 

Verge 

Lout 

Be opposite 

(to) 

Pure-bred 

racehorses 

Pictured 

actress, __ 

Johansson 

Portable 

icebox 

mAsyu 

Give out or 

give off 

Water 

outlets 

Indian gown 

Batters 

with force 

Minisnooker 

Small flap 

__ Joey, 

Frank 

Sinatra film 

Popular 

sandwich 

filling (inits) 

Carton 

Milky gem 

Given to 

ordering 

others about 

Manipulate 

First Greek 

letter 

Implement 

Staggers 

Cry of woe Uncanny 

Wildcat with 

tufted ears 

Example Grids 

For this Japanese logic puzzle, you must draw a line around the Puzzle grid that Gridpasses 

through aLL the black and white dots before joining up with itself to make 

a continuous loop. Your line can pass through or turn left or right in empty 

squares, but there are rules for squares containing dots. Your line cannot cross 

over itself, branch off, veer diagonally, or go through the same square twice. 

Example Solution 

108 

rules For dots 

black Dot: Your line must turn left or right 

in these boxes, and pass straight through 

the next and previous boxes. White Dot: 

Your line must travel straight through the 

box, and it must turn left or right in the 

next box and/or the previous box. 

Sol Grid 

mAsyu 

Sol Grid 

Make (a 

woollen 

garment) 

__ Hunt, TV 

fishing ace 

Language of 

Nocturnal the Far East 

flying animal 

Little tacks 

__ Rankin, 

crime writer 

Price 

charged 

Right, 

Example fitting Solution 

Generation 

Mistake 

Garden 

insects 

Become 

solid 

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BINDI TURNS 14! 

Australia Zoo gets set to bring on Boot Camp! 

110 

Get B Bin Bindi to her birthday party 

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Helping you to live, work or study in Australia 

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Migration Plus Network Pty Ltd – ABN 45 136 723 987 

Level 15 Cairns Corporate Tower 

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Phone: (07) 4041 2620 Fax: (07) 4041 5011 

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FREE ADVICE, TIPS & TOOLS FOR MEMBERS 

“ Is arthritis getting you down?” 

Check out Gerald Quigley’s 

FREE Arthritis Resource Centre. 

Gerald is a practicing Community 

Pharmacist, Accredited Herbalist 

and Health Presenter on 3AW, 

6PR & 2CC radio stations. 

Gerald gives excellent information, tips and 

tools to help you manage your condition at 

livingwitharthritis.com.au. Sign up is free, and you 

can join the forum and talk with other arthritis 

members. Some examples of Gerald’s tips are: 

1. Always wear the best walking shoes possible. 

2. Support your digestion with apple cider vinegar. 

3. Eat cold water fish at least 3 times a week. 

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in tHe air WitH 

117 Jetstar News 

118 StarKids 

120 Where We Fly 

122 International Adventures 

136 Australian Adventures 

138 Domestic Airports 

139 Your Wellbeing Onboard 

140 ジェットスター・エアウエイズの 

日本語インフォメーション 

143 Menu 

Japan, Here We Come 

Jetstar Japan will launch its first flight this month, five months 

ahead of schedule. The first flight will depart Tokyo on 3 July 

bound for Sapporo. 

Fares for Jetstar Japan went on sale on 17 April with launch 

sale fares at ¥1. The airline will fly to Tokyo, Sapporo, Osaka, 

Fukuoka and Okinawa. 

Jetstar Japan welcomed the first aircraft to its fleet (pictured) 

in April. It's the first of three new A320s that will make up the 

new Jetstar Japan fleet. 

The airline is scheduled to grow to 24 A320s within the next 

few years. 

jetstar news 

117

Healthy Eating 

is Child’s Play 

With the support of StarKids, Indigenous children in Australia’s 

Warlpiri communities are learning about good nutrition 

S 

urrounded by the Tanami 

Desert in remote central 

Australia, Warlpiri 

communities are teaching their 

children the importance of health 

and nutrition. At community 

playgroups, young Indigenous 

children have their regular morning 

tea of fruit and yoghurt. oneyear-old 

Azaleah clearly enjoys 

morning-tea time. When it’s time 

to sit down to eat with the other 

children she happily devours her 

healthy snack. Azaleah is very 

diligent in washing her hands 

before and after each meal, 

and after visiting the toilet — 

something she has learnt 

at playgroup. 

Azaleah’s mum, Deandra, 

brings her to playgroup regularly. 

“It’s good because they learn,” she 

says. Deandra is very active in the 

playgroup and assists staff when 

they serve meals and helps out 

with art and craft activities. 

A CArING CoMMUNITY For KIds 

The playgroup is part of the 

Warlpiri education and Training 

Trust (WeTT) early Childhood 

Care and Development Project, 

supported by starKids, which aims 

to improve the education and 

health of Indigenous Australian 

children under five. 

118 

Words Therese Johnson 

WeTT, an organisation of local 

Warlpiri leaders, identified early 

childhood development as a key 

priority for the community and 

invited World Vision to partner 

with them to implement the 

project. Keeping culture and 

language strong is important for 

local Warlpiri communities and 

they’re central to decisions made 

in project delivery. 

HEALTHY oPTIoNs 

As family members, like Deandra, 

join in playgroup activities they 

also learn about nutrition and 

hygiene. When children are more 

familiar with the healthy food 

options provided at playgroup, they 

influence their families to make 

healthier choices when shopping. 

The local store is also 

committed to providing healthy 

options. When the project first 

began, the community’s remote 

location often meant that fresh food 

was not readily available or was 

expensive. World Vision, along with 

other community providers, liaised 

with the local store to help promote 

healthy food choices by ensuring 

sweets were not stocked at the 

front of the store and that healthy 

alternatives were available. 

The Warlpiri communities 

can see the positive effect of the 

project. Local Warlpiri woman, 

project facilitator and playgroup 

grandmother, robyn, says, “The 

people in this community want to 

see what is good for the people. 

The playgroup is positive for the 

community in educating the young 

ones.” Warlpiri kids are learning 

that healthy eating really is 

child’s play. 

FROM LEFT TO 

RIGHT: Douglas 

enjoys his yoghurt 

for morning tea; 

Azaleah and her 

mother, Deandra, at 

playgroup; Azaleah 

enjoys meal times 

PhoTos: sUzY sAINovsKI/WorLd vIsIoN

At community playgroups, 

children have morning tea 

of fruit and yoghurt 

You can help! 

Vulnerable children 

and communities need 

our help. the starkids 

partnership between Jetstar 

and World Vision was 

formed to help children 

enjoy a brighter future. 

You can support starkids 

by donating loose change 

in the donation envelope 

located in your seat pocket. 

let your small change 

create change! 

starkids 

AbouT STArKIdS 

Tim Costello, 

CEO of World 

Vision Australia 

How did tHe idea of StarKidS 

come about? 

StarKids is a humanitarian 

partnership between World 

Vision Australia and Jetstar. 

The partnership supports 

humanitarian relief and 

community-based development 

projects in Australia and across 

Asia, and aims to improve the 

lives of families living in poverty. 

It's about giving children a 

brighter future. 

wHat are StarKidS’ aimS? 

The support given to World 

Vision through StarKids will go 

towards transforming the lives of 

vulnerable children. 

How can JetStar paSSengerS 

Help out? 

Your donations would be most 

welcome! Please place your 

small change (all currencies) in 

the StarKids envelope located 

in your seat pocket. The money 

collected from Jetstar passengers 

will be given to World Vision 

Australia for humanitarian relief 

and community development 

projects in Australia and Asia. 

You can also donate online at 

www.jetstar.com/starkids. 

can i learn more about 

world ViSion proJectS? 

Yes, visit www.worldvision.com. 

au or www.jetstar.com/starkids 

for more information. 

119

YANGON 

120 

BANGKOK 

PHUKET 

PENANG 

MEDAN 

HANOI 

SINGAPORE 

BEIJING 

HANGZHOU 

GUANGZHOU 

HONG KONG 

HAIKOU 

SIEM REAP 

PHNOM PENH 

KUALA LUMPUR 

JAKARTA 

SURABAYA 

NINGBO 

HO CHI MINH CITY 

SHANTOU 

TAIPEI 

MANILA 

BALI (DENPASAR) 

PERTH 

TOKYO (NARITA) 

OSAKA (KANSAI) 

DARWIN 

OPERATED BY JETSTAR AIRWAYS 

OPERATED BY JETSTAR ASIA OR VALUAIR 

POTENTIAL DESTINATIONS TO BE CONFIRMED IN 2012 

PERTH - JAKARTA - SINGAPORE OPERATED BY JETSTAR ASIA FOR JETSTAR AIRWAYS. 

SINGAPORE - AUCKLAND OPERATED BY JETSTAR AIRWAYS FOR JETSTAR ASIA. 

CAIRNS 

FLY JETSTAR TO MORE 

THAN 50 DESTINATIONS 

THROUGHOUT AUSTRALIA, 

NEW ZEALAND, ASIA AND 

THE SOUTH PACIFIC 

MELBOURNE 

GOLD COAST 

SYDNEY 

FIJI 

AUCKLAND 

HONOLULU

INTERNATIONAL 

PERTH 

OPERATED BY JETSTAR AIRWAYS 

OPERATED BY 

JETSTAR PACIFIC 

DOMESTIC VIETNAM 

DARWIN 

HANOI 

HO CHI MINH CITY 

VINH 

ADELAIDE 

HAI PHONG 

HUE 

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND 

DA NANG 

MELBOURNE (AVALON) 

NHA TRANG 

LAUNCESTON 

HOBART 

CAIRNS 

DOMESTIC JAPAN 

OKINAWA 

TOWNSVILLE 

WHITSUNDAY COAST (PROSERPINE) 

HAMILTON ISLAND 

MACKAY 

SUNSHINE COAST 

BRISBANE 

GOLD COAST 

BALLINA BYRON 

NEWCASTLE 

SYDNEY 

MELBOURNE (TULLAMARINE) 

FUKUOKA 

QUEENSTOWN 

WHERE WE FLY 

OSAKA (KANSAI) 

OPERATED BY JETSTAR JAPAN. 

FLIGHTS SUBJECT TO REGULATORY 

APPROVAL. 

DUNEDIN 

SAPPORO 

TOKYO (NARITA) 

AUCKLAND 

WELLINGTON 

CHRISTCHURCH 

121

internAtionAl Adventures 

fiji fiji 

122 

Taryn Williams 

Founder & director, 

WINK model agency 

GreaT place for dinner: 

Tikos Floating Restaurant at 

Suva City Harbour. They serve 

wonderful fresh seafood and the best 

kokoda (raw fish salad) in town! 

BesT niGhT ouT: A night on 

the town in Suva — start 

with a meal on Tiko's Floating 

Restaurant, then party the night 

away in Suva's many nightclubs. 

Traps and O'Reilly's are good 

places to start. 

MusT-Buy (Money no 

oBjecT!): Pearls! You can 

get access to some amazing pearls 

in Fiji if you know the right people 

— ask the locals. 

insider's Tip: 

Bargain — the first price is 

not the best — use your bargaining 

skills to get a deal that you're all 

happy with. 

local recreaTional 

acTiviTy To WaTch: Rugby 

Union, the second 'religion' of Fiji. 

You can catch a game on any flat 

piece of land. 

explore the corals off Fiji 

FIJI 

From the Airport 

Nadi town 8km from 

Nadi International 

Airport 

travel time Nadi Town 

is 10–15 mins by car 

taxi FJ$7–$10 

(AU$3.80–$5.50) 

oN the Go 

1. Car hire Available 

at the airport; drive 

on the left side of the 

road as in Australia. 

2. taxi Plentiful, but 

make sure meters are 

switched on. 

3. motorcycle Rent 

bright yellow bikes 

from Westside 

Motorcycles. 

4. Light plane Getting 

to Suva from Nadi 

could cost you FJ$86– 

$103 (AU$47–$56). 

HONOLULU HAWAii 

catherine e. Toth 

Freelance travel and 

food writer, and 

blogger, thecatdish.com 

MusT-eaTs: You can't visit 

Hawaii without trying the 

fresh local fish. And the most 

popular way we eat it is in poke 

(poh-kay), a dish typically consisting 

of raw fish cubed and marinated 

with sea salt, soy sauce, sesame oil, 

seaweed and chilli peppers. Some of 

the best is served at Ono Seafood 

on Kapahulu Avenue. 

local delicacy: 

Portuguese immigrants may 

have brought the ukulele, the 

indelible instrument in Hawaiian 

music, but they also gave us the 

malassada, a delicious ball of yeast 

dough that's deep-fried and doused 

in white sugar. Get your fix at 

Agnes' Portuguese Bake Shop on 

Ho'olai Street in Kailua. 

favouriTe local 

fesTival: Every September, 

more than 50,000 people from 

around the world converge at 

Kapiolani Park in Waikiki for the 

annual Okinawan Festival to 

experience the Okinawan culture. 

Aerial view of magic island 

hoNolulu 

From the Airport 

CBD 14km from 

Honolulu International 

Airport 

travel time CBD is 

around 15 mins by car 

taxi Approx US$40 

(AU$41) 

Airport shuttle US$15 

return (AU$15.40) and 

taking around 20 mins 

Bus Every 30 mins 

at US$2.50 adults 

(AU$2.60) for bus 

numbers 19 and 20 

oN the Go 

Bus There are hotel 

shuttles, public buses 

and quaint open-air 

trolley buses — Oahu 

has an excellent bus 

network. For a flat fee 

of US$2.50 (AU$2.60) 

you can go everywhere.

international adventures 

BEIJING china 

greg hooton 

Vice president, iMg 

events & Federations, 

Asia Pacific 

Best Breakfast: 

Symphony Café, a French 

artisan bakery that serves great 

coffee and pastries within minutes of 

my apartment in Central Park, Beijing. 

Must-Buy (Money no 

oBject!): An oriental 

design Chinese silk carpet from 

Henan province. 

Best idea for a faMily 

outing: The Great Wall 

in winter. You'll get to see 

snow-covered mountains and enjoy 

the crisp cold air and the most 

amazing clear blue sky. There are 

fewer people there in winter. 

Most unusual thing to 

do: Visit Houhai Park, 

Beijing in winter. The lake is frozen 

and you can hire single wooden 

seats to slide across the ice. The 

seats look like they have been 

taken from a 1950s classroom. 

survival tip for 

tourists: Be patient and 

cautious when crossing the road; 

look out for motorcyclists. 

Temple of Heaven 

beijing 

FROM THE AIRPORT 

CBD About 26 km 

from Beijing Capital 

International Airport 

Travel time CBD is 


Taxi Approx CNY100 

(AU$16) 

Shuttle bus CNY16 

(AU$2.60), departing 

for the CBD every 

15-30 mins 

ON THE GO 

1. Pedicab Good for 

visiting hutongs on your 

own. A legally registered 

pedicab can be 

identified by a certificate 

on it; the driver should 

carry a card. 

2. Subway It’s clean, 

fast and comfortable. 

The subways run every 

4-5 mins and tickets 

cost about CNY3 

(AU$0.50) per ride. 

123 

FREE 

Easy to use and less 

than 30 cents per coffee. 

We’re currently serving 

all over Australia - no office too big or small! 

Conditions apply. 

Coffee machine 

for your office! 

Serve cafe style coffee to 

your clients and staff, 

every day. 

Simply order your 

coffee beans through 

us, and we will supply 

you with a world class 

Italian automatic 

coffee machine. 

Call us at Arico Coffee 0423 980 500 or visit 

www.freecoffeemachine.com.au 

123


osaka japan 

Best BreaKfast: Tavola36 

Italian Restaurant & Sky Bar 

at Swissôtel Nankai Osaka is 

located on the top floor of the 

hotel. Guests can enjoy their 

breakfast with breathtaking views 

of Osaka and feel like they're dining 

in the clouds. 

Must-Buy Gift: Go to 

Doguyasuji (tool shop 

street) in the Minami area. You can 

get many unique items such as 

plastic food replicas that make 

perfect gifts. 

Must-eats: Takoyaki 

(baked octopus ball) is one 

of the most delicious local foods in 

the Kansai area. Wanaka is one of 

the most popular takoyaki shops in 

the Minami area and it's in the 

vicinity of our hotel. 

Best place to hanG out 

with the locals: The 

Umeda and Tennoji areas have just 

been refurbished last year. Or go to 

Hozenji Yokocho in the Namba area 

to enjoy the ambience of old Japan. 

124 

Mai tanaka 

Concierge, swissôtel 

Nankai Osaka 


CBD 38km from 

Kansai International 

Airport 

Travel time 50 mins 

by car 

Taxi Approx ¥16,000 

(AU$210) 

Limousine bus Every 

45 mins at ¥880 

(AU$11.50), takes 

50 mins 

Nankai Express Train 

Every 30 mins from 

¥1,390 (AU$18), takes 

30 mins 

ON THE GO 

1. The subway 

It’s easy to use, 

efficient and clean. 

2. Bicycle Many of 

the hotels offer their 

guests the option of 

hiring a bicycle to get 

around the city. 

Osaka Castle Traditional Japanese drummers 

OsAkA 

tokyo japan 

Keren Miers 

General manager, 

Oakwood Residence 

Aoyama Tokyo 

Great place for dinner: 

Hikari Tori, located in trendy 

Azabujuban, one of the last 

remaining 'villages' in Tokyo. The 

restaurant serves some of the best, 

most succulent yakitori (grilled 

chicken sticks) in the city. Try the 

chicken senbei (crispy chicken 

breasts served up like rice crackers) 

washed down with a frosty mug of 

draft beer. 

Best ideas for a faMily 

outinG: LaQua Tokyo Dome 

City — it's a stadium, theme park, 

shopping and restaurant area, with 

natural hot spring baths all under 

one roof. Catch a Yomiuri Giants 

baseball game in season; ride the 

Big O, the world's first centreless 

ferris wheel; or the Thunder 

Dolphin roller coaster. 

Best place to party 

with the GanG: Rigoletto 

in Roppongi Hills. It's a well-priced 

bar and restaurant — a fun place to 

eat, drink, make new friends and 

people watch. 

TOkyO 


CBD 66km from Narita 

Airport 

Travel time 60–90 

mins by car 

Taxi Approx ¥20,000 

(AU$262) 

Limousine bus 

¥3,000 (AU$35), takes 

60–90 mins 

JR Narita Express 

Every 30–60 mins at 

¥3,000 (AU$39); takes 

60 mins 

ON THE GO 

1. The subway 

Easy to use, efficient 

and clean. 

2. Shinkansen 

The bullet train is 

super-fast, clean and 

efficient. It can take 

anything from minutes 

to hours to get to 

another prefecture.

SKI HOKKAIDO 

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Japan offers excellent ski opportunities with fantastic snow, 

a unique culture and its close proximity to Australia. The snow 

season runs from early December to late March. Deep Powder 

Tours offer holiday packages to all of Japan’s major ski resorts. 

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* The specials are a summary of what is available and Early Bird booking conditions apply, please 

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Trekking the wilderness Avon River 

auckland new zealand 

126 

Stuart Rogan 

Executive chef, 

Botswana Butchery 

Auckland 

BeSt BReakfaSt: I'm 

usually in the kitchen by 

8am, so breakfast is a coffee and 

toast on the run. If I do get the 

chance, I head over to Olaf's café in 

Mt Eden. They have great coffee 

and artisan breads. 

GReat place foR diNNeR: 

Botswana Butchery is located 

on the waterfront in the centre of the 

city with views across the harbour. 

Our menu is a combination of hearty 

meat dishes and seasonal à la carte 

fare, all set within a luxurious and 

eclectic interior. 

foR hiStoRy: I don't think 

you can beat Auckland 

Museum for a history fix in a 

spectacular environment. The kids 

will love it too; there are loads of 

interactive displays and activities. 

i love aucklaNd 

BecauSe: Since I arrived 

here over 12 years ago, it has 

evolved so much. The food 

and wine scene has become 

quite sophisticated. 

AucklAnD 


CBD 20km from 

Auckland International 

Airport 



Taxi From NZ$60 

(AU$46.50) 

Shuttle bus NZ$30 

(AU$23.20), taking 

45–60 mins 

ON THE GO 

1. Jafa cabs This is 

a bicycle with bench 

seats for two. Free in 

the Auckland CBD. 

2. Ferry Fullers Ferries 

offer regular services 

to Waiheke Island from 

downtown Auckland. 

3. The city circuit bus 

Two bus circuits that 

will take you safely 

and easily to the 

city’s attractions. 

christchurch new zealand 

Nick Reekie 

Director, 

www.bookme.co.nz 

BeSt BReakfaSt: Joe's 

Garage on Leslie Street in 

Riccarton; it's new. It has a great 

atmosphere, personalised service 

and is just the kind of place that 

slows you down a bit. One coffee is 

never enough! 

BeSt place foR diNNeR: 

Cook 'n' With Gas at 

Worcester Boulevard which offers a 

unique twist on New Zealand cuisine. 

You get a paper tablecloth so if you 

get bored with conversation, you can 

start drawing. They have a fine wine 

list too. 

iNSideR'S tip: Before you 

book any activity while in 

Christchurch, Akaroa, Canterbury 

or Kaikoura, you must check 

www.bookme.co.nz. There are 

huge deals which will save you, 

your family and friends big bucks 

on most days. 

local RecReatioNal 

activity to watch: Catch 

some kiteboarding action at the 

Ferrymead estuary. 

christchurch 


CBD 11km from 

Christchurch 




Taxi Approx NZ$45-65 

(AU$35-51) 

Shuttle bus NZ$24 

(AU$18.60), taking 

15–20 mins 

ON THE GO 

1. The shuttle Free 

seven-day central bus. 

2. The Orbiter Bus 

runs every 15 minutes 

to six suburban 

shopping malls. 

3. The city 

circuit buses cover 

major attractions. 

AucklAnD: touRiSm New ZealaNd christchurch: chRiStchuRch & caNteRBuRy touRiSm with chRiStchuRchNZ.com

SKI4FREE 

SKI4FREE 

RENTALS 

NZD 

PER DAY 

NZD 

PER DAY


Coronet Peak Filipino dancers 

queenstown new zealand 

128 

Justine McCall 

Sales manager, 

Kingston Flyer 

Best plaCe to party 

with the gang: Ballarat 

Trading Co. in Queenstown Mall. 

It's a great place for that five 

o'clock wind-down wine before 

heading over to Surreal to party the 

night away. 


oBJeCt!): A helicopter 

tour of Milford Sound — it's 

truly breathtaking! 

Must-Buy gift: Any of the 

local Gibbston Valley wines. 

The winery itself is a must-visit! 

Sample some of the finest wines in 

the region. 

Must-eats: Luciano's — 

you'll never be disappointed 

by any of their meals. They offer my 

favourite pork belly. The food is 

reasonably priced, always amazing 

and they have a great wine list. 

loCal deliCaCy: Our 

Gibbston Valley Pinot. 

i love Queenstown 

BeCause: It's my slice of 

heaven on earth. 

queenStown 


CBD 7.5km from 

Queenstown 




Taxi Approx NZ$30 

(AU$23.20) 

Shuttle bus From 

NZ$10 (AU$7.80), 

taking about 20 mins 

ON THE GO 

1. The city circuit 

bus There are three 

routes covering major 

downtown attractions. 

2. Taxi Book online, 

over the phone or hail 

one from the roadside. 

3. Walking The town 

is compact, and most 

places can be easily 

accessible on foot if 

your accommodation 

is nearby. 

manila philippines 

tata Mapa 

Freelance writer, 

stylist and 

editorial trainer 


outing: Take the whole kit 

and caboodle to the Manila Ocean 

Park for a swimmingly grand time. 

Enjoy the fascinating dance of the 

creatures of the deep at its 

Oceanarium, take in the marine life 

shows, enjoy a glass-bottom 

boat-ride, or check out the fish spa 

for a unique (and ticklish!) 

experience. After that, spend the 

night at the sleek and modern Hotel 

H2O. Children go nuts over having 

an aquarium for a wall in their 

bedroom, and the glass bathrooms 

add to the fishbowl-type ambience. 

for history: Visit the 

National Museum or take 

one of John Silva's (johnsilva. 

blogspot.com) historical tours for a 

more personalised side of the 

story that is at once informative 

and stirring. 

i love Manila BeCause: 

It's home — and everyone 

else who comes to visit will feel just 

as welcome! 

manila 


CBD 7km from Ninoy 

Aquino International 

Airport 



Taxi Approx PHP150- 

200 (AU$3-4.70). 

Pre-booked taxis are 

available inside the 

airport terminal and 

save you the hassle 

of haggling. 

ON THE GO 

1. Taxi You can usually 

flag one down at most 

malls. Be sure to 

always insist on using 

the meter. If the driver 

refuses, just say no 

politely and get out 

from the cab. 

2. Jeepney These 

lorries ply most major 

city roads, and can 

take you anywhere 

along their route. 

queenStown: tourisM new Zealand

seminyak, bali 

a quiet place to stay a happening area to hang out 

WHERE WERE YOU? 

+62 361 7336 99 www.bvilla.com 

/ bvillabali / bvillabali 

RESERVATIONS +62 361 730594 

WWW.111RESORTS.COM


Singapore singapore 

130 

Steven Chan 


Crowne Plaza 

Changi Airport 

InSIder'S tIp: The beauty 

of Singapore is in its size and 

diversity; you can enjoy this 

multicultural melting pot and 

wander from one place of interest to 

the next all on foot. If you're able to 

plan your itinerary well, covering 

multiple places of interest in just a 

few hours is achievable — for 

example, from Chinatown to Little 

India to Arab Street. 

LoCaL deLICaCy: The 

Singapore chilli crab is 

sweet and spicy. You can find this 

at seafood joints along East Coast 

Park or have it as part of a seafood 

buffet spread at Azur, Crowne Plaza 

Changi Airport. 

BeSt Idea for a famILy 

outIng: Head to Sentosa for 

some fun family activities. 

for hIStory: Visit the 

Changi Museum to find out 

what life was like in Singapore 

during World War II. The museum 

contains paintings and personal 

effects contributed by ex-POWs. 

Bird’s eye view from the 

Singapore Flyer 

sinGAPore 


CBD 20km 

Travel time 20–30 

mins by car 

Taxi Approx S$18-38 

(AU$14-30) with a 

surcharge of S$3–$5 

(AU$2–$4) 

Airport shuttle Most 

hotels are S$9 (AU$7) 

one way 

MRT train Every 

10–15 mins from 

Terminal 2 and 3 from 

5.30am–11.18pm, 

takes 27 mins to reach 

the city for S$1.70 

(AU$1.40) 

ON THE GO 

The Hippo An opentop 

double-decker 

bus that allows you 

to hop on and off; 

S$23 (AU$18) for an 

all-day pass. 

frederiek Ilona Bollen 

Pr & health 

club manager, 

The Landmark 

A street vendor with 

her produce 

ho chi minh city vietnam 

BeSt BreakfaSt: Jaspas on 

Dong Khoi — you have 

the option of sitting indoors or 

outdoors, and on the weekends they 

have a great buy-one-get-one-forfree 

offer. 

great pLaCe for dInner: 

Cuc Gach Quan restaurant on 

Dang Tat — it offers sensational 

Vietnamese cuisine in a beautiful 

setting. Must-tries are the fried tofu 

and king prawns in tamarind sauce. 

BeSt pLaCe to party 

wIth the gang: Start your 

evening at Ly Club on Nam Ky Khoi 

Nghia for a great dinner in a French 

colonial setting. The menu 

comprises Western and Vietnamese 

favourites so everyone can pick 

whatever they like. After that, take a 

taxi to Blanchy's Tash to dance the 

night away at one of their two bars! 

for hIStory: Visit the 

tunnels of Cu Chi. They 

became legendary during the 1960s 

when the Viet Cong used them to 

control the rural area around the city. 

ho Chi minh CiTy 


CBD 7km from Tan 

Son Nhat International 

Airport 



Taxi A taxi voucher 

from Visitor 

Information for US$12 

(AU$12.30) 

Shuttle bus 

Most hotels offer 

complimentary 

pick-up 

ON THE GO 

1. Taxi Ask the drivers 

to turn the meters 

on; there are taximotorbikes 

as well. 

2. Walking This is the 

best way to dash up 

alleys and down oneway 

streets, but we 

only recommend this 

for District One.


bali indonesia 

132 

Marcel Driessen 

Executive chef, 

InterContinental 

Bali Resort 

Great place for Dinner: 

Lately, we're exploring local 

warungs (restaurants) where you can 

eat pretty good local food for an 

attractive price. We've tried a 

Thai-style warung called Kat's 

Kitchen and an Italian-style warung 

called Gorgonzola, which serves 

good pizza and pasta. For more 

upscale dining, I like Sarong — the 

restaurant serves food from around 

the region. The bar is also very good 

with well-trained bartenders. 

Must-buy (Money no 

object!): The locals can 

fabricate anything — they're very 

good crafters. I would buy my entire 

home interior here and ship it back. 

local Delicacy: Most 

popular among locals is the 

babi guling (roasted pig), often eaten 

during special festivals. Babi guling is 

eaten with urutan babi, which 

comprises spiced pork sausages and 

cracklings. Once the pig is cooked, 

the locals also use part of the cooked 

meat to make a pork salad. 

Relax by the sea 

BaLI 


CBD 15km from 

Denpasar’s Ngurah 

Rai Airport 

Travel time Kuta 

Beach is around 

10 mins by car 

Taxi About IDR50,000 

(AU$5.40) 

Shuttle bus 

Most hotels offer 

complimentary 

pick-up 

DAMRI Bus 

IDR10,000-20,000 

(AU$1-2) to any city 

bus station 

ON THE GO 

1. Taxi Get your hotel 

to order one for you 

and arrange for a 

return trip. 

2. Hired car The only 

way to go into the 

villages. Hiring a driver 

only costs a little more. 

jakarta indonesia 

Desiree Merlina 

Director of PR, 

The Park Lane 

Great place for Dinner: 

RIVA — this French 

eatery serves fabulous food in a 

romantic ambience. 

best niGht out: Loewy in 

Mega Kuningan, a semialfresco 

resto-bar with a fun crowd. 

It's a great afterhours hangout. 

survival tip for 

tourists: Bring rupiah 

currency and try to learn basic 

Indonesian words which will make it 

easy for you, especially when you 

have to bargain when shopping. 

Must-eats: Fried rice, 

chicken satay and gado-gado 

(Indonesian-style salad with 

peanut sauce). 

best place to hanG out 

with the locals: Café 

Batavia — the place and its 

surroundings display Jakarta's 

historical architecture. 

favourite local festival: 

The Midnight Great Sale 

which usually happens before a major 

holiday like Ramadan or Christmas. 

Jakarta’s cityscape 

jakaRTa 


CBD 20km from 

Soekarno-Hatta 


Travel time Allow at 

least 40 mins by car 

(depending on traffic) 

Taxi IDR120,000 

(AU$12) to the CBD, 

including charges 

DAMRI Bus 

IDR10,000-20,000 

(AU$1-2) to a city bus 

station 

ON THE GO 

1. Taxi The most 

reliable taxi company 

is Blue Bird. Call +62 

(21) 7917 1234 and 

book one in advance. 

Ignore informal 

taxi “agents”. 

2. Hired car If driving 

around the busy city 

is daunting, ask for a 

driver with your car.

HAVING PROBLEMS WITH YOUR TEETH ? 

At Bali 911 Dental Clinic, have no worries. If you are suff ering from Edentulous or most of the teeth (8 or more) are 

having problems, we can fi x with 14 to 28 porcelain dental crowns/implants in just one week, and we give 5 years 

guarantee for Porcelain, Crowning and Implant Treatments. 

Dental Implants: We have been placing implants for almost 20 years most with immediate loading. 

One implant + one crown can be completed in a day and you will be able to eat immediately after treatment (for front teeth which you can see). 

Restore your missing teeth with 8 - 12 implants plus 14 porcelain crowns and bridgework completed in a week. We use Ceramil Multi-X Technique and Cerec 

Technique from Germany. 

For Lesser Cost: Dental Crown: A$350 (includes root canal treatment if needed) 

Dental Implant: A$1200 (inclusive of crown) 

Quick Results: Porcelain crown/bridgework will be completed in one day. For 14 or 28 units and if you need upper and lower teeth bridgework at the same time, 

it will be completed in one week. 

Hassle-Free Treatment: All treatments are performed in one place. We do not refer you to other specialists because we are the specialists! 

Cosmetic Dentistry: Zoom bleaching, veneer for discolored teeth, soft tissue grafting, gum plastic surgery for gummy smile and bone grafting are all available, 

while restoring/rehabilitation your mouth with 14-26 porcelain crown we always will raise your bite which will have a result in better appearance like having 

face lifting (look younger). 

Walk in customers are welcomed. 

When you smile, the world smiles with you...so make a beautiful smile. 

INHOUSE DENTAL LAB/CEREC 

GALiLEOS 3D X-RAY (SIRONA) 

BALI 911 DENTAL CLINIC IMPLANT CENTER 

Jl. Patimura No. 9-11 Denpasar, Bali – Indonesia 

Telp. (0361) 249 749, 222 445 • Speak to the Dentist: (0361) 744 0911, 0812 3800911, 0812 3826055 

e-mail: iguizot@indosat.net.id, bali.dentalclinic@yahoo.com 

website: www.ivodent.com, www.bali911dentalclinic.com 

MALL BALI GALERIA 

2nd fl oor No. 2c-58/59 Jl Bypass Ngurah Rai Simpang Dewa Ruci Kuta 

Phone: 766255, 766254 E-mail: rudysald@yahoo.com 

Speak to the dentist (0361-7449911) 

OPEN ON SUNDAY 

JAKARTA OFFICE 

Dharmawangsa Square 

Ground Floor Unit 65, Jakarta 

Phone: (021) 727 88284, Hp. 081 113 7241 

E-mail: marikguizot@gmail.com 

JAKARTA 

Jln. Pakubuwono Vl NO. 111 

Jakarta Selatan 

Phone: (021) 7223349


bangkok thailand 

134 

Mark Thomson 

Asst dir. of public 

relations, Anantara 

Hotels Resorts & Spas 

UnUsUAl fAcT: I bet you 

didn't know that the real 

Thai name of Bangkok is certified 

as the longest place name in the 

world in the Guinness World 

Records. Try saying this: "Krung 

Thep Mahanakhon Amon 

Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya 

Mahadilok Phop Noppharat 

Ratchathani Burirom 

Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan 

Amon Piman Awatan Sathit 

Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit". 

fAvoUriTe/recoMMended 

side Trip: One of my 

favourite pastimes is hiring a 

long-tail boat and cruising the 

inland canals of the Chao Phraya 

River. If you have a few hours to 

spare, the boat will take you up to 

Nonthaburi where the cityscape of 

Bangkok is replaced with beautiful 

old teak houses, rice paddies and 

bustling local markets. 

fAvoUriTe locAl 

fesTivAl: The Songkran 

Festival held in April. 

Getting around on 

a tuk tuk 

bAnGkok 


CBD 30km from 

Suvarnabhumi 


Travel time Around 


Taxi Approx THB300 

(AU$9.70) 

Airport Express 

THB150 (AU$4.90); 

takes around 60 mins 

ON THE GO 

1. BTS Skytrain and 

MRT These two train 

systems travel overand 

underground 

to get you to all 

the major points 

in Bangkok. 

2. Tuk-tuk This 

method of transport 

offers an exhilarating 

ride around the 

streets, but is best for 

short distances only. 

phuket thailand 

Andrew Turner 


Anantara Phuket Villas 

BesT BreAkfAsT: Anantara 

Phuket Villas — the breakfast 

at the resort is consistently talked 

about as one of the best due to our 

extensive selection of offerings from 

the West, Asia and different corners 

of Thailand. 

GreAT plAce for dinner: 

Sea Fire Salt restaurant is 

set on the untouched Mai Khao 

beach and has a unique concept of 

cooking seafood on Himalayan salt 

bricks. Great seafood and an 

extensive wine list! 

BesT plAce To pArTy 

wiTh The GAnG: Catch 

Beach Club, which is on Surin 

beach, has a relaxed atmosphere 

and they play good music. 

MUsT-BUy (Money no 

oBjecT!): Take a private day 

or overnight trip to the local islands 

on Major Affair, a 90-foot 

sun-seeker yacht. It's a fully 

catered, private and a personalised 

way to explore the beautiful 

beaches and islands of Phuket. 

Explore Phuket’s beaches 

PHuket 


Patong Beach 

32km from Phuket 


Travel time Patong 

Beach is around 45 

mins by car 

Taxi Approx THB400 

(AU$13) 

Shuttle bus Every 

30 mins at THB70 

(AU$2.30); takes 

about 60 mins 

ON THE GO 

1. Motorbike A cheap 

and convenient way 

to explore all the tiny 

lanes around the 

beach — but drive 

with care! 

2. Tuk-tuk This 

method of transport 

offers an exhilarating 

ride, but is best meant 

for travelling short 

distances only.

Affordable quality, 

texture and style 

COIR JUTE SEAGRASS SISAL WOOL 

• Strikingly simple floor coverings full of 

texture, character and style. Elemental 

and dramatic, our range of woven carpets 

are both great designer choices and 

especially good for allergy sufferers. 

Hardwearing yet soft underfoot. 

Environmentally friendly, made from 

natural renewable resources. 

Contact us 

For samples or information brochures 

on this fantastic product, contact our 

showrooms: 

SYDNEY MELBOURNE 

BRISBANE GOLD COAST 

1800 339 379 

AUCKLAND 

0800 862 377 

www.interfloors.com.au 

ALL YOUR NEEDS COVERED - NATURALLY 

ISO 2008 : 9001 CERTIFY 128020 

Dr Sunil 

Dental Clinic 

International Dental Centre 

All kinds of dental treatment 

Laser tooth whitening Dental Implants 

Crown, bridges and veneers in 24 hours 

Fluent English, Japanese, Indian, 

Arabic, Thai Speaking Doctors 

Laser Whitening 

7,200 Baht (US$230) 

14,000 Baht (US$450) for couple 

Zoom II Whitening 

9,500 Baht (US$320) 

FREE limo pick up service 

WWW.DRSUNILDENTAL.COM 

Open everyday 9.00am-9.00pm 

Immediate appointments 

International Dental Cosmetic Center 

World Class Dental Care 

Sukhumvit Soi 71, Soi Preedeebanomyong 14 

Phrakhanong, Bangkok 10110 (BTS Phrakhanong-E8) 

Tel: 0-2314-6328, 0-2714-6441 Mobile: 08-1648-5780 

Email: oberoibkk@yahoo.com

AustrAliAn Adventures 

Your 

Insider’s 

Guide 

The Twelve Apostles off 

the Great Ocean Road 

136 

melbourne 

Australians share 

their favourite 

domestic destinations 

samara tanton 

Snow reporter, Falls Creek 

& Hotham 

Best ideA for A fAMily 

outing: Take a drive down 

the Great Ocean Road to the Otway 

Fly and Treetop Walk where you'll 

find something for the whole family. 

Abseil off the Fly, stroll the Treetop 

Walk or whizz from cloud station to 

cloud station on the Zip Line Tour. 

Most unusuAl thing to 

do: Head to the Melbourne 

Aquarium to meet the penguins... 

literally! Penguin Passport offers a 

once-in-a-lifetime encounter 

with the Aquarium's colony of 

sub-Antarctic penguins. 

insider's tip: "Chuck a 

Snowie" this winter! Pack up 

the family and head to Hotham 

Alpine Resort or Falls Creek for a fun 

and stress-free family holiday. With 

amazing deals on lift passes in 

2012, there's no excuse not to. 

They're easily accessible from 

Melbourne by car and bus. 

Must-Buy gift: Treat a 

friend (or yourself!) to the 

ultimate relaxation at one of 

Hotham's two day spas. The skin 

care, massage and body treatments 

are to die for and the Onsen Retreat 

and Spa's Japanese-inspired 

outdoor onsen is a must! 

Best Buy for under 

Au$50: Snowbiking at Falls 

Creek is fun! It's the only place in 

Australia you can do this and it's like 

riding a BMX bike but with skis on; 

it's a hoot and only AU$38 for a 

session. Catch the chairlift up, then 

ride down the run on your snowbike. 

Must eAts: Wind down 

from an exhilarating 

weekend with a delicious Sunday 

roast and glass of local red at 

Hotham's centrally located 

White Room. 

great oCean road: Visions of VictoriA gold CoaSt: QueenslAnd tourisM BoArd

gold coast 

jayde pezet 

Sales manager, The 

Oracle apartments 

“Burleigh point is fantastic 

on a spectacular, 

sunny day” 

Catch the surf at Burleigh Heads; 

TOP: Harbourside restaurant Catalina 


For Greek dining, Hellenika 

at Nobbys Beach is spectacular, 

providing wonderful flavours, great 

service and a wine list that 

complements the menu perfectly. 


au$50: A new hairdo at 

Gold's Barber Shop in Broadbeach. 

Check out the surf and skateboard 

memorabilia from the 1960s while 

getting a trim. 


oBject!): If you want to 

make the Gold Coast your 

permanent holiday destination, 

local property is a must-buy! The 

current market favours buyers with 

great deals at all prices, including 

brand new apartments like those at 

The Oracle. 

Best place to hanG out 

with the locals: Burleigh 

Point is fantastic on a spectacular, 

sunny Sunday, followed by drinks 

and dinner at Justin Lane. 


outinG: Jan Power's 

Farmers Markets, held the second 

Sunday of each month at The Oracle 

in Broadbeach. 

favourite side-trip: 

Byron Bay for sure. Enjoy 

breakfast or lunch at Why Not! 

followed by a surf at local break The 

Pass and to finish the day, a few 

beers at the Beach Hotel. 

australian adventures 

sydney 

vibeke weinreich Mignard 

General manager, Ole Lynggaard 

Copenhagen 


Universal, Darlinghurst. I 

love the easygoing style of dining 

where diners are encouraged to 

interact with the kitchen staff. It's 

no-boundaries cuisine inspired by 

chef Christine Manfield's extensive 

travels and driven by her 

iconoclastic approach to cooking. 


au$50: YSL Touche Éclat — 

incredibly creamy and weightless and 

really wakes up the jet-lagged eye. 


oBject!): A diamond lace 

ring from Ole Lynggaard 

Copenhagen — truly exquisite 

and unique. 

Must-eat: Macarons from 

Adriano Zumbo. 

local delicacy: Sydney 

rock oysters from Catalina. I 

love sitting on the cool terrace on a 

sunny day overlooking Rose Bay 

and knocking back freshly shucked 

oysters with chilli lime. 

137

australian airports 

Arriving At Our Destinations 

let us give you a head-start 

ADELAIDE 

CBD 6km 

Travel time CBD is around 


Taxi Approx AU$18 

Skylink Bus Every 30 mins– 

1hr: AU$8.50 adult, $3.50 

child. Takes around 35 mins 

Airport parking AU$4–$90 

(30 mins–72 hrs) 

AVALON 

Geelong CBD 20km 

Melbourne CBD 55km 

Travel time 15 mins (Geelong); 

40 mins (Melbourne) by car 

Taxi Approx AU$45 Geelong; 

approx AU$80 Melbourne 

Avalon Airport Shuttle Meets 

all flights. From AU$17 adult, 

$14 child (Geelong); AU$20 

adult, $10 child (Melbourne) 

Airport parking From AU$3 for 

the first 20 mins; weekly rate 

AU$53 

BALLINA-BYRON 

CBD Byron Bay is 23km; 

Ballina is 5km 

Travel time Byron Bay is 

20 mins by car; Ballina is 

7 mins by car 

Taxi Approx AU$10–$15 

to Ballina; approx $65 to 

Byron Bay 

Airlink bus Meets most flights: 

AU$20 adult ($35 return); $12 

children under 13 years (oneway). 

Takes around 35 mins 


(1 hr–24 hrs) 

BRISBANE 

CBD 16km 




Bus Every 15–30 mins: AU$14 

adult; $8 child; under 4 years 

free. Takes about 30 mins 

AirTrain Every 20 mins to 

CBD: one-way adult fare 

AU$14.50; return $27. Takes 

about 22 mins 



CAIRNS 

CBD 8km 

Travel time CBD takes 10 mins 

by car 


Australia Coach Shuttle Every 

hour: AU$10 adult; $15 couple; 

AU$5 child. Takes around 20 mins 


(2–24 hrs) 

138 

DARWIN 

CBD 13km 

Travel time CBD is 15 mins 

by car 


Darwin Airport Shuttle 

Meets all flights: Adult AU$16 

(one way), AU$29 (return); 

child AU$8 (one way), AU$14 

(return); under 4 years free. 

Discount for 2 or more 

passengers 


(up to 24 hrs) 

GOLD COAST 

Surfers Paradise 20km 

Travel time Surfers Paradise is 



Con-X-ion Shuttle bus Booking 

required: +61 (7) 5556 9888: 

AU$22 adult; $13 child (4–13 

years); children under 4 years 

travel free. Takes around 

45 mins 



Gold Coast Airport Lounge 

For a small entrance fee, 

check in for movies, comfy 

lounges, newspapers, snacks 

and drinks. 

HAMILTON ISLAND 

Travel time From the airport 

to your accommodation takes 

only a few minutes 

Shuttle bus Complimentary for 

hotel guests 

HOBART 

CBD 17km 



Taxi Approx AU$36–$42 

Airport Shuttle Bus Meets 

all flights: AU$15 adult; $10 

children aged 4–15; children 

under 4 travel free. Journey 



(24 hrs) 

LAUNCESTON 

CBD 16km 




Airport Shuttle Bus Meets all 

flights: AU$14 adult; $5 child; 

children under 4 free. Takes 

around 15 mins 



MACKAY 

CBD 6km 

Travel time CBD 15 mins by car 


To Airlie Beach Take a taxi to 

the bus terminal in Wellington 

Street and then a bus service 

by Greyhound or Premier; 

approx AU$22 one-way adult 

fare 


(24 hrs) 

MELBOURNE 

CBD 23km 

Travel time 35 mins by car 


SkyBus Every 10 mins: AU$16 

adult; $6 child (4–14 years). 

Takes 20 mins 

Airport parking Short-term 

from AU$3; long-term from 

AU$29 

NEWCASTLE 

CBD 20km 




Shuttle Bus Door-to-door 

service (from AU$35) through 

Newcastle Information Services 

at +61 (2) 4928 9822. Port 

Stephens Coaches (public bus) 

every hour: AU$6.50 adult; 

$3.50 concession. Takes 35 

mins 


(1 hr–24 hrs) 

PERTH 

CBD 12km (domestic 

terminal) and 17km 

(international terminal) 

Travel time 30 mins by car 

Taxi Approx AU$26 (domestic) 

and $33 (international) 

Perth Airport City Shuttle Every 

30 mins (domestic) and 

45 mins (international): 

AU$15 adult (domestic), 

$20 (international). Journey 

takes 15–35 mins 

Fremantle Airporter AU$35 

(booking required) 

Transperth Bus 37 From 

domestic terminal to Kings 

Park via the city AU$3.20 


carpark from AU$3.70; longterm 

carpark from AU$17 

SYDNEY 

CBD 8km 

Travel time CBD around 



Bus Every 20–30 mins: AU$14 

adult; AU$7 child. Journey 


Trains Every 10 mins 

(weekdays) AU$15 adult. Takes 

around 13 mins into the centre 

of the city 



SUNSHINE COAST 

Travel time Noosa is 

30 mins, Maroochydore 

is 10–15 mins by car 

Taxi Approx AU$56 to travel 

to Noosa; approx AU$28 to 

Maroochydore 

Henry’s Bus Service Meets 

all flights: AU$25 adult; $12 

child; children under 4 years 

free. Journey to Noosa takes 

around 45 mins 

TransLink Bus Service number 

622 connects the airport to 

the suburbs. From 5.53am 

weekdays, 6.53am weekends/ 

pub hols. Call 13 12 30. 


(2–24 hrs). 

TOWNSVILLE 

CBD 5km 

Travel time CBD around 10 

mins; taxi approx AU$16 

Airport shuttle Booking 

required +61 (7) 4775 5544 

to the Strand and city, 

Sunferries, the Transit Centre 

and Coral Princess: AU$8 

(adult); takes 10–15 mins 


carpark, AU$4–$24 

(2 hrs–12 hrs). Long-term 

carpark, AU$12–$72 (1–6 

days); thereafter AU$10 per 

24-hour period or part thereof 

WHITSUNDAY COAST 

CBD 30km from 

Proserpine Airport 

Travel time CBD takes around 

35 mins 


Whitsunday Transit AU$15 

adult share-ride (one-way; 

AU$28 return); AU$9 child 

(one-way; AU$16 return), 

children under 4 years travel 

free. The Whitsunday Transit 

service meets all flights. For 

details, call +61 (7) 4946 1800 

Airport parking From AU$2-$15 

(1-24 hours). AU$13 per day 

(2-30 days).

Introducing the 

Jetstar Travel Card 

One card. Multiple currencies. 

When you travel, choose the smart alternative to travellers cheques and currency exchange 

by purchasing a reloadable, prepaid Jetstar Travel Card. 

– Load Australian dollars and convert into a 

– No monthly account keeping fee 

choice of eight currencies, all on one card 

– Apply for and manage your card online 

– No currency conversion fees* 

With the Jetstar Travel Card, managing your holiday money overseas couldn’t be easier. For more 

information and to purchase, visit jetstar.com 

jetstar.com 

Jetstar Travel Card (‘Card’): *No currency conversion fee for transactions in an offered currency if you have sufficient funds in any of the offered currencies. The Travel Card is issued by Macquarie 

Bank Limited ABN 46 008 583 542, AFSL No. 237502 (MBL). Jetstar Airways Pty Ltd ABN 33 069 720 243 (Jetstar) is an Authorised Representative of MBL for the purposes of arranging for the issue 

of the Travel Card and providing general advice relating to the Travel Card. Jetstar’s Financial Services Guide is available at jetstar.com/travelcard and you agree to its provision to you by accessing 

that link. Jetstar is not responsible for any obligations owed by MBL in relation to the Travel Card. This is general information and does not take into account any of your potential personal objectives, 

financial situation or needs. Before acting on this information, you must consider its appropriateness having regard to your own objectives, financial situation and needs and obtain your own 

independent advice about whether to obtain or continue to hold a Travel Card. Obtain MBL’s combined Financial Services Guide and Product Disclosure Statement at jetstar.com/travelcard to see 

if the Travel Card is right for you and for full terms and conditions. Fees and charges may apply if you obtain or continue to hold a Travel Card. MasterCard® and the MasterCard Brand Mark are 

registered trademarks of MasterCard International Incorporated. Jetstar and the Jetstar logo are trademarks of Qantas Group and used under licence by Macquarie Bank. JET4735/TC

THE HEIGHT OF HOTEL LUXURY JUST LANDED IN PERTH 

GREAT EASTERN HIGHWAY, BURSWOOD, WESTERN AUSTRALIA 6100 

RESERVATIONS +61 8 9362 8888 

CROWNMETROPOLPERTH.COM.AU 

GC_BHO056

JETSTAR PASSENGERS ENJOY ONE FREE DAY 

PLUS 500 EXTRA QANTAS FREQUENT FLYER POINTS 

Rent any car with Avis in Australia or New Zealand for a minimum of 3 consecutive days, including a 

Saturday night and you will receive one day free of the time and kilometre charges plus 500 extra 

Qantas Frequent Flyer points! Rentals must commence by 31st July 2012 and you must include 

Coupon Number TPPA079 in your booking. 

Go to the Avis counter on arrival 

OFFER ENDS JULY 31 

HURRY! 

Subject to availability. Refuelling service charge, local taxes, excess kilometres, optional insurance cover, Vehicle Registration Fee, Concession Recovery Fee or Premium Location Surcharge 

(if applicable) administration fee, miscellaneous charges and GST on these items not included. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer, coupon or promotion. The free day 

offer and Qantas Frequent Flyer points are not available on package tour, travel industry or Government rates. Avis standard age, credit and driver requirements apply. Full terms and 

Conditions are available on avis.com.au You must be a member of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program to earn points. Quote your membership number when booking. Membership and 

points are subject to the terms and conditions of the Qantas Frequent Flyer program. A joining fee may apply. For more information about earning points with Avis visit qantas.com/cars

july-2012

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