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WE<br />

NY<br />

FROM HARLEM TO BROOKLYN,<br />

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO<br />

THE BIG APPLE<br />

brussels airlines’ inflight magazine issue 67 | <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong>


welcome MAAKT<br />

a month of good news<br />

We are pleased to tell you that <strong>2012</strong> so far has seen us welcome an increasing number of passengers each month. In addition, we recently<br />

won the Network Development Short Haul Aviation Award given out by Brussels Airport, our base, in recognition of our efforts to grow our<br />

European traffic. In turn, we would like to applaud the airport and the Belgian rail network for the enormous infrastructure project that will<br />

offer passengers a direct connection between the airport and the historic port city of Antwerp, and beyond to the Netherlands.<br />

And of course, the big news this summer is that we now fly direct between Brussels Airport and New York JFK. In recent months, we have<br />

welcomed many reservations for this transatlantic flight and are delighted that our competitive fares and the introduction of a high-level, welcoming<br />

Belgian inflight experience are popular with so many of you.<br />

The second big news is the brand new cabin on our long-haul aircraft to New York and Africa. The response from both Business and Economy Class<br />

passengers who have experienced our new product on board the three refurbished aircraft has been most enthusiastic. We will continue to install the<br />

premium beds and ergonomic seats, the state-of-the-art inflight entertainment system and the magnificent 3D flight course technology on the rest of<br />

our long-haul fleet throughout the year.<br />

I would like to thank you for your loyalty and wish you a wonderful month ahead.<br />

Bernard Gustin CEO<br />

Un mois de bonnes nouvelles<br />

Chez Brussels Airlines, nous avons de nombreuses bonnes nouvelles à partager avec<br />

vous. Depuis le début de l’année <strong>2012</strong>, nous avons accueilli chaque mois un nombre<br />

croissant de passagers. Nous venons en outre d’être récompensés du Network<br />

Development Short Haul Aviation Award par Brussels Airport, notre base, pour les efforts de<br />

développement de notre trafic européen. A notre tour, nous tenons à féliciter l’aéroport et le<br />

réseau ferroviaire belge pour leur extraordinaire projet d’infrastructure, qui offrira aux passagers<br />

une connexion directe avec la ville portuaire d’Anvers, et au-delà avec les Pays-Bas.<br />

Mais revenons sur la grande nouveauté qui verra le jour cet été : nous relierons désormais<br />

directement Brussels Airport et New York JFK. Nous avons déjà enregistré un nombre conséquent<br />

de réservations pour ce vol transatlantique et nous sommes heureux de constater que nos<br />

tarifs compétitifs ainsi que la possibilité de choisir les meilleurs standards de confort d’une<br />

compagnie belge pour voler sur cette ligne aient reçu un si bon accueil de la part de nos passagers.<br />

La seconde grande nouvelle concerne la nouvelle cabine de nos avions long-courriers à<br />

destination de New York et de l’Afrique. Tant en classe Business qu’en classe Economy, les<br />

passagers qui ont d’ores et déjà testé notre nouvelle expérience à bord se sont montrés<br />

particulièrement enthousiastes et conquis. Tout au long de cette année, nous continuerons<br />

progressivement à installer ces nouvelles cabines sur notre flotte long-courrier, comprenant<br />

des lits parfaitement plats en classe Business et de nouveaux fauteuils au design<br />

ergonomique en classe Economy. Nos passagers pourront également bénéficier de notre<br />

système révolutionnaire de divertissement à bord et de notre programme d’informations<br />

cartographiques en vol en trois dimensions.<br />

Je tiens vivement à vous remercier de votre fidélité et vous souhaite un merveilleux<br />

mois de juin !<br />

Bernard Gustin CEO<br />

EENDRACHT<br />

MACHT<br />

L'UNION FAIT<br />

LA FORCE<br />

Een maand vol goed nieuws<br />

Het is met plezier dat we kunnen melden dat we tot dusver in <strong>2012</strong><br />

elke maand meer passagiers aan boord van onze vliegtuigen<br />

hebben verwelkomd. Onze thuishaven, Brussels Airport, zette ons<br />

onlangs voor de groei van ons Europaverkeer in de bloemetjes door ons de<br />

Network Development Short Haul Aviation Award toe te kennen. Graag<br />

prijzen we op onze beurt ook de luchthaven en de Belgische spoorwegen<br />

voor de gigantische infrastructuurwerken, die een directe verbinding zullen<br />

opleveren tussen de luchthaven en de historische havenstad Antwerpen, en<br />

verder naar Nederland.<br />

Uiteraard is het grote nieuws van deze zomer dat we vanaf nu Brussels<br />

Airport rechtstreeks met New York JFK verbinden. De voorbije maanden<br />

hebben we al heel wat reservaties voor deze trans-Atlantische<br />

vliegverbinding mogen verwelkomen. Onze scherpe prijzen en de introductie<br />

van een hoogstaande, gastvrije Belgische in-flight ervaring op de route zijn<br />

daar niet vreemd aan.<br />

Het tweede grote nieuws is de gloednieuwe cabine van onze langeafstandsvliegtuigen<br />

die koers zetten naar New York en Afrika. Ze werd bijzonder<br />

enthousiast onthaald door zowel onze passagiers die in Business als in<br />

Economy class reizen. De installatie van de nieuwe comfortabele bedden en<br />

ergonomische zetels, het fantastische in-flight entertainmentsysteem en de<br />

schitterende 3D vluchtinformatie-technologie in de rest van onze<br />

langeafstandsvloot zal het hele jaar doorgaan.<br />

Graag wil ik u bedanken voor uw trouw en wens ik u een prachtige maand!<br />

Bernard Gustin CEO<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 3


Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Volvo Ocean Race 2011–<strong>2012</strong>”. Ref. 3902: Sailing all the way round the world. Every<br />

three years, something many amateur sailors dream of becomes a gruelling challenge for a small group of hardened professionals and their<br />

equipment. Over a course of more than 39,000 miles, the Volvo Ocean Race separates the men from the boys. And, of course, those on<br />

board cannot simply wear just any watch. The new Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Volvo Ocean Race 2011–<strong>2012</strong>” has all the<br />

precision of a nautical instrument in its genes. Powered by the rugged IWC-manufactured 89361-calibre movement and water-resistant to<br />

6 bar, the watch displays its competitive credentials with a flyback function and an ancillary bezel with quarter-second calibration for measuring<br />

short periods of time. It is the only Portuguese model with protective shoulders for the crown as well as luminescent hands and indices.<br />

After all, when you are exposed to the elements in the South Pacific, with waves of up to 30 metres in height, you begin to appreciate instruments<br />

you can rely upon. And, as we are all well aware, the world’s oceans will always do whatever they please. IWC. Engineered for men.<br />

IWC Schaffhausen Boutiques: Beverly Hills I Geneva I Hong Kong I Shanghai I Zurich I Las Vegas I Moscow I Singapore I Instanbul I Beijing www.iwc.com<br />

For more information please call +31 20 5246 777.


6<br />

features<br />

11 observation deck: new york 12 my city<br />

15 diary 18 barrio: antwerp 20 sleep<br />

22 design 25 style 26 eco 29 eat: NEW york<br />

31 on the road: tuscany 35 perfect 10<br />

63 business news 114 extra time: sport<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

67<br />

contents<br />

36 52<br />

36<br />

46<br />

52<br />

56<br />

67<br />

46<br />

FR Résumés des articles en français nl Samenvattingen in het Nederlands<br />

new york: the inside track<br />

A native’s guide to the city’s five great boroughs – where to go, what to see, what to do, what to eat<br />

riff on raf<br />

A profile of the talented Belgian designer Raf Simons as he takes up the hot seat at Dior<br />

a walk in the clouds<br />

Venturing into the treetops of Rwanda’s rainforest<br />

fishy tales<br />

Joe Warwick visits Bilbao for some top pintxos and the finest tuna in the world<br />

business: stockholm<br />

Meet the bright young entrepreneurs making Sweden’s capital the tech start-up hub of Europe<br />

regulars 71 city guides<br />

Get the lowdown on destinations across<br />

the network from local writers<br />

93 airline section<br />

Keep up to date with all the latest news<br />

and information from Brussels Airlines<br />

discover more...Why not check out this issue online at btheremag.com, or download the<br />

b.there magazine app by scanning this code (right) with your iPhone/iPad to take you to the<br />

iTunes App Store. You’ll need a QR reader (barcode scanner), which you can download.<br />

we like hearing from you!<br />

Follow @FlyingBrussels on Twitter, or join facebook.com/brusselsairlines<br />

editorial<br />

Editor Jane Wright<br />

jane.wright@ink-global.com<br />

Deputy Editor Jenny McNeely<br />

jenny.mcneely@ink-global.com<br />

Chief Sub Steve Handley<br />

Sub Editors Alida Campbell (English),<br />

Brigitte Ledune/edito3 (French and Dutch),<br />

Telelingua (Dutch)<br />

art<br />

Art Director Marten Sealby<br />

Picture Desk Manager Julia Holmes<br />

Picture Editors Daniela Hart, Iain MacDougall<br />

Picture Researcher Megan Eagles<br />

Cover Hugh Sitton/Getty Images<br />

sales<br />

Publisher Anna Szpunar<br />

anna.szpunar@ink-global.com, +32 (0)2 808 1576<br />

Associate Publisher Manuel De Magalhaes<br />

Advertising Jonathan Carrillo Saez, David Serra<br />

production<br />

Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />

Production Controller Adam Jones<br />

Online Director Sal Lababidi<br />

Digital Development Edward Chamberlin<br />

Print & Logistics Manager Tim Davey<br />

Reprographics Mike Gibbon/KFR Pre-Press Ltd<br />

for ink<br />

Executive Creative Director<br />

Michael Keating<br />

Deputy Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys<br />

Design Director Julia Murray<br />

Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />

Chief Executive Jeffrey O’Rourke<br />

Chief Operating Officer Hugh Godsal<br />

Commercial Director Kevin Rolfe<br />

b.there magazine is published on behalf of<br />

Brussels Airlines by Ink. All correspondence and<br />

advertising enquiries should be addressed to:<br />

b.there magazine, Ink, 141-143 Shoreditch High St,<br />

London E1 6JE<br />

Tel +44 (0)20 7613 8777 Fax +44 (0)20 7613 8776<br />

Email info@btheremag.com<br />

btheremag.com ink-global.com<br />

All paper used in the printing of this magazine is<br />

obtained from sustained forestry.<br />

All material is strictly copyright and all rights are<br />

reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced<br />

in whole or in part without written permission of the<br />

copyright holder. While every effort is made to ensure all<br />

prices and data are correct at the time of publication,<br />

Brussels Airlines can not be responsible for editorial<br />

errors. Opinions expressed in b.there magazine are not<br />

necessarily those of Brussels Airlines and Brussels<br />

Airlines does not accept responsibility for advertising<br />

content. Any pictures or transparencies supplied are<br />

at the owner’s risk.<br />

for brussels airlines<br />

Publications Director Monica Devi Lim<br />

monicadevi.lim@brusselsairlines.com<br />

b.house, Brussels Airport, Airport bld 26<br />

box 4.7, Ringbaan B-1831 Diegem,Belgium<br />

brusselsairlines.com GETTY IMAGES


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ILLUSTRATION: ROBERT BALL/THE ARTWORKS<br />

N<br />

observation deck: new york<br />

the heart and soul of NYC has always been about the people, says Michael Kaplan<br />

ew York City is a tough old place, the geographical equivalent of vintage Muhammad Ali:<br />

Roaming<br />

brash, strong, tactical and never on its back for very long. The city can be knocked down,<br />

the streets<br />

but it always gets back on its feet, full of sass and humour and courage, ramming forward<br />

of downtown<br />

with more power than before.<br />

Manhattan, you see<br />

These days, the restaurants are packed, nightclubs are rocking, and the hotels are second<br />

the up-and-comers who<br />

to none. Even our football team, the Giants, won the Super Bowl earlier this year (yes,<br />

function as the heart and<br />

strictly speaking they are the New Jersey Giants, playing one state over across the<br />

soul of New York; the never-<br />

Hudson River, but for true-blue New Yorkers, they will always be the<br />

say-die advocates who fuel<br />

New York Giants).<br />

themselves on dreams, strong<br />

Dining, dancing and sport – try to catch a Yankees game when you<br />

coffee, and ambition. And at<br />

are in town; the team has a new stadium in the Bronx and the buzz is<br />

the other end of the spectrum<br />

phenomenal – are all terrific indicators of a city’s vitality. But the real tell<br />

you can’t miss the Wall Street<br />

on where a city stands is its people. New Yorkers, of course, come in all<br />

guys, cruising along in stretch<br />

shapes and sizes. And whether they’re hedge-fund managers living on<br />

limos and town cars, swanning<br />

the Upper West Side or striving DJs/artists/waiters on the<br />

around in bespoke suits, making<br />

Lower East Side, they mostly retain the plucky qualities of<br />

things work and keeping the<br />

outsiders who arrived on a skinny island with<br />

economy pumping.<br />

intentions of scrambling up the pecking order.<br />

Look at almost any artist or<br />

Spend some time in New York and talk to the<br />

performer or chef or self-made mogul<br />

people who live here, and you will quickly<br />

who rose up the ranks in New York<br />

discover that very few were actually born in<br />

City and you will recognise the street-<br />

the city. They come to New York from all over<br />

smart qualities that got them to their<br />

the United States and the world, eager to<br />

lofty heights. People sometimes say<br />

make a mark, to live a special life, to do<br />

that New York City can be a lonely<br />

extraordinary things. Some make<br />

place. But its residents will tell you<br />

it and some don’t,<br />

that the city is lonely only if you want<br />

but often the<br />

it that way, if you’re hankering for<br />

accomplishments<br />

solitude, even in a public place.<br />

resonate regardless<br />

It’s why movie stars and sports<br />

of mainstream success.<br />

idols and high-profile businessmen can walk<br />

You see the strivers<br />

the streets unbothered by fans and why an<br />

bashing away on their<br />

anonymous writer in a corner café can linger for<br />

instruments in<br />

hours, sipping cappuccinos and tapping out a<br />

underground nightclubs,<br />

masterpiece (or not) on his laptop.<br />

creating art in bare-bones<br />

But the second you crave companionship, it’s<br />

studios and making inventive<br />

easy to find. Sip a beer in a bar and strike up a<br />

dishes in small restaurants<br />

conversation with the barman or person on<br />

that have yet to be<br />

either side of you. No doubt he’ll have something<br />

discovered. So-called<br />

interesting, or at least opinionated, to say.<br />

Silicon Alley, New York’s<br />

In a vertical city, where people live,<br />

neighbourhood of<br />

commute, stroll, and commune cheek-by-jowl,<br />

high-tech start-ups,<br />

friendliness is part of the unspoken compact.<br />

is loaded with bright<br />

Besides, most of the people you meet here first<br />

young entrepreneurs<br />

arrived in town alone. They came here to interact<br />

who are just one good<br />

with strangers. So pull up a chair, say something<br />

idea away from a<br />

ballsy, and you’ll fit right in.<br />

billion-dollar cash-out.<br />

Next month: London<br />

FLY TO new york jfk daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 11


12<br />

the Bronx museum of the arts’ Holly Block tells scott Berman of her love for new york<br />

H<br />

olly Block, executive director of the<br />

Bronx Museum of the Arts, says she’s<br />

had ” two lives in the Bronx” – one as<br />

a curator in the 1980s and another that began<br />

in 2006 when she returned to the borough to<br />

head up the museum as executive director. It’s<br />

a telling comment, because the Bronx itself has<br />

had many lives, including one in the 1970s as a<br />

moribund backdrop to urban decay – and quite<br />

another today: one of gathering regeneration.<br />

In a sense, it was a homecoming for Block,<br />

who grew up in Washington, DC – her father was<br />

born in the Bronx. Block initially came to the<br />

Bronx to serve as a curator, then spent almost<br />

two decades downtown as executive director of<br />

Arts in General, a non-profit organisation that<br />

promotes artists, before being drawn back to<br />

the area just north east of Manhattan.<br />

“But don’t expect Times Square or the Statue<br />

of Liberty here,” laughs Block. “The Bronx is a<br />

vibrant, transitioning place for visitors who are<br />

not interested in a homogenised, pre-packaged<br />

experience.” Indeed, in terms of its<br />

revitalisation, the Bronx is “still in its infancy on<br />

its way to adolescence”, Block quips, yet she<br />

has seen major changes since she first moved<br />

to New York City in the 1980s.<br />

She describes her borough with great relish.<br />

First, there’s the Grand Concourse, a wide<br />

thoroughfare originally modelled on the<br />

Champs-Élysées. The Concourse epitomises<br />

the Bronx of today. “In 2009, a major<br />

renovation project spruced up about 10 blocks,<br />

showcasing the luscious art deco facades of<br />

the grand residential buildings, architecture<br />

that you can also find on side streets,” Block<br />

points out. Many of those grand facades were<br />

intact since there was little development in the<br />

years of decline. Indeed, when Block’s museum<br />

underwent an expansion in 2006, it was the<br />

first major project in the immediate area in<br />

decades, she explains.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

my city<br />

Top: The magnifi cent facade of The Bronx Museum<br />

of the Arts where Block is executive director; Above:<br />

Manhattan’s Chinatown, the district where she lives<br />

Block leads a museum that, in its approach,<br />

exhibits and outreach, reflects and celebrates<br />

the rich diversity and neighbourhoods of the<br />

Bronx. You can spot it at 1040 Grand<br />

Concourse at 165th Street, by the distinctive<br />

accordion-like shape of its extension. “We’re<br />

very open to the community. The extension,<br />

by architects Arquitectonica, reveals that<br />

philosophy in the way you can see right into<br />

the gallery from the sidewalk through the big<br />

windows on the ground floor.”<br />

The museum has a permanent collection<br />

of 800 varied works and – to celebrate the<br />

museum’s 40th anniversary – admission is<br />

free. Block oversees a busy programme of<br />

exhibitions, music performances and film<br />

screenings, including a vibrant exhibition by<br />

artist Emilio Sanchez (26 June-1 July).<br />

There’s plenty going on nearby too. Block<br />

recommends Joyce Kilmer Park, New York<br />

Botanical Gardens, the Bronx Zoo, and a<br />

treasure chest usually undiscovered by out-oftowners:<br />

City Island, on the eastern end of the<br />

Bronx. “This is a lovely little seaport community<br />

where you can find great seafood and Italian<br />

cuisine,” says Block.<br />

Indeed, the Bronx has a world of tasty<br />

choices, each signalling the heritage of<br />

neighbourhood residents. Block mentions<br />

Jamaican, Ghanaian, Senegalese, Malian,<br />

and a number of interesting restaurants on<br />

Concourse side streets between 153rd and<br />

161st streets. “The stand-outs,” she recounts<br />

enthusiastically, “include The Feeding Tree<br />

(Jamaican) and Molino Rojo (Spanish), both on<br />

161st; Tiny’s (Italian) at Grant and East 166th;<br />

Roberto’s on Arthur Avenue near East 187th;<br />

and Giovanni’s and the G-Bar, which has live<br />

music, on the Concourse at East 150th Street.”<br />

Elsewhere in the city, Block loves<br />

Manhattan’s Lower East Side, near Chinatown,<br />

where she lives; Brooklyn’s buzzing Red Hook<br />

neighbourhood; and the High Line, an elevated<br />

former railway line in the Meatpacking District<br />

that’s been transformed into one of<br />

Manhattan’s most popular walkways. But Block<br />

reserves her missionary zeal for the Bronx.<br />

“What’s interesting about the Bronx is that<br />

people are from all over the world,” she says.<br />

“It’s a place of resurgence, revitalisation and<br />

the future – always with another neighbourhood<br />

to discover. And its diversity has inspired me to<br />

travel the world to experience the origins of its<br />

cultures and art traditions.”<br />

For more information visit bronxmuseum.org for<br />

listings or bronxarts.org for details of events and<br />

its Bronx Culture Trolley Tour<br />

FLY TO new york jfk daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

GETTY IMAGES; NORMAN MCGRATH


PETER SERLING<br />

The bronx is a place<br />

of resurgence and<br />

revitalisation. There<br />

is always another<br />

neighbourhood<br />

to discover<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 13


*DISCOUNT ONLY APPLICABLE FOR RETURN FLIGHTS FROM BRUSSELS, BOOKED ONLINE AT BRUSSELSAIRLINES.COM AND NOT APPLICABLE ON AIRPORT TAXES AND OTHER SURCHARGES<br />

diary<br />

must-see arts, culture and events around the network this month<br />

Il Cinema Ritrovato<br />

Film Festival<br />

Bologna, 23-30 June,<br />

cinetecadibologna.it<br />

Bologna’s 26th film festival includes<br />

screenings of rare, vintage and restored<br />

films at atmospheric locations.<br />

30% off b.light economy fares*<br />

Book 1-21 June; travel 22-25 June;<br />

promo code MBLQFILM<br />

fly to brussels from 50 european destinations. london four times daily;<br />

bologna and oslo twice daily brusselsairlines.com<br />

Beaufort04<br />

Various locations, Belgium, until<br />

30 September. beaufort04.be<br />

Contemporary art spreads along the<br />

Belgian coast from De Panne to<br />

Zeebrugge. Installations range from<br />

the monumental – Marco Casagrande’s<br />

50m Sandworm, a curved tunnel of<br />

hand-woven willow, to the minuscule,<br />

such as Isaac Cordal’s tiny sculptures<br />

of people whose sombre appearance<br />

points to the artist’s concern about<br />

the environment.<br />

Norwegian Wood<br />

Oslo, 14-17 June, norwegianwood.no<br />

This year’s festival at Frognerbadet in Oslo<br />

welcomes veteran rock stars Bryan Ferry, Tom Petty<br />

& The Heartbreakers and Sting, so expect a fair few<br />

pairs of leather trousers and some ‘dad’ moves.<br />

James Morrison, Oslo Ess and Lenny Kravitz will<br />

also be appearing under Norway’s midnight sun.<br />

30% off b.light economy fares* Book 1-14 June;<br />

travel 15-18 June; promo code MOSLWOOD<br />

The Middelheim Museum is back<br />

Antwerp, middelheimmuseum.be<br />

Antwerp’s open-air contemporary art gallery returns after a complete renovation. on.<br />

The updated museum will have a new semi-open pavilion and for its unveiling<br />

will be displaying a prestigious collection of works by Thomas Schutte. The<br />

grounds have been extended by five hectares and include the renovated castle<br />

which will house a visitor’s reception area, museum shop and café, adding to<br />

the allure of this fabulous revamp.<br />

The Horse:<br />

from Arabia to<br />

Royal Ascot<br />

London, until 30 September,<br />

Free entry, britishmuseum.org<br />

The history of the horse is the<br />

history of civilisation, and this<br />

exhibition explores the<br />

influence of horses in Middle<br />

Eastern history, from their<br />

domestication around 3,500 BC<br />

to the present day. Loans from<br />

the British Library, the Fitzwilliam<br />

Museum, the Royal Armouries<br />

and Saudi Arabia can be seen<br />

alongside famous pieces such<br />

as the Standard of Ur and<br />

Achaemenid Persian reliefs.<br />

30% off b.light economy fares*<br />

Book 1-28 June; travel 29 June-<br />

2 July; promo code MLHRHORS<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 15


Long day in the office<br />

Gatz, Noël Coward theatre, London<br />

8 June-15 July<br />

We think nothing of spending eight hours in the<br />

office, but how about in a theatre? That’s the<br />

proposition of Gatz – a production by New<br />

York-based experimental theatre company,<br />

Elevator Repair Service.<br />

“It’s not the kind of show you should turn up<br />

for hungover!” laughs company member Ben<br />

Williams, who, as both actor and sound<br />

operator, spends nearly the entire show on<br />

stage. “It requires a lot of focus.”<br />

Gatz, which Williams describes as “unlike<br />

anything else you will see in a theatre,” begins<br />

with an employee arriving at work to a broken<br />

computer. He finds a battered copy of F Scott<br />

Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby on his desk and<br />

starts reading it aloud. “Very slowly the book<br />

starts to echo things that are happening<br />

around him in the office,” explains Williams,<br />

“until eventually the world inside the book<br />

and the world outside the book become the<br />

same thing.”<br />

For the next eight hours director John Collins<br />

takes the audience on a journey through<br />

Fitzgerald’s seminal novel. Scott Shepherd, who<br />

plays the character who finds the novel and<br />

gradually becomes the novel’s narrator, has had<br />

diary<br />

to memorise all 49,000 words. Its length may<br />

sound daunting, but Gatz has two intervals, an<br />

extended dinner break, and plenty to keep<br />

audiences engaged.<br />

“There’s a lot of humour in the show, and that<br />

surprises people,” says Williams. “They come<br />

expecting this epic, serious affair, and right<br />

away it’s a joke-fest. Reading it out loud you<br />

experience how much humour is in the book.”<br />

Gatz proved hugely popular in New York in<br />

2010, and again this spring, with influential New<br />

Power (un)dressing<br />

Helmut Newton, Museum of Photography, Berlin<br />

2 June-18 November, helmut-newton.com<br />

York Times critic Ben Brantley calling it “one<br />

of the most exciting and improbable<br />

accomplishments in theatre in recent years”.<br />

Having completed an international run, it<br />

receives its London premiere this month as<br />

part of the London International Festival of<br />

Theatre (LIFT). Williams can’t wait to find<br />

out how UK audiences respond: “It’s been<br />

fascinating to see how different audiences<br />

around the world have reacted to the show.”<br />

Caroline Bishop<br />

According to legendary photographer Helmut Newton, “The perfect fashion photo should look like<br />

something out of a movie, a souvenir shot, a paparazzi shot – anything but a fashion photograph”. Newton’s<br />

first three books – White Women, Sleepless Nights and Big Nudes<br />

– sold hundreds of thousands of copies, and have now been turned<br />

into an exhibition. Bordering between fashion and nude photography,<br />

many of the images are considered iconic. Following their<br />

presentation at the Museum of Fine Arts Houston in 2011, this<br />

exhibition will be the German premiere.<br />

The unapologetic ‘king of kink’ is acclaimed for producing<br />

beautiful, controversial images of women, tapping into the zeitgeist<br />

of a period when power and money dictated all. Consequently, there<br />

is nothing natural or soft about his portraits – on the contrary, they<br />

are strident, confrontational and provocative. Jenny McNeely<br />

16 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO london four times daily; berlin six times daily. brusselsairlines.com


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a r c h i media


arrio: antwerp<br />

James Williams visits the vibrant docklands neighbourhood of Het Eilandje<br />

Antwerp is a city renowned for its fashion designers and diamonds,<br />

so it’s not surprising that Het Eilandje (‘Little Island’) has been<br />

polished into such a stylish gem. Sandwiched between the modernday<br />

port and the Schipperskwartier (the once seedy red-light<br />

district), this area is home to the city’s 19th-century docks –<br />

today attracting new museums, interesting shops, cool bars and<br />

buzzy restaurants to its revamped port buildings.<br />

1 Royal Ballet<br />

of Flanders<br />

Kattendijkdok-Westkaai 16,<br />

+32 (0)3 234 3438, koninklijk<br />

balletvanvlaanderen.be<br />

Book tickets for a classical or<br />

modern performance at the<br />

300-capacity Theater ’t Eilandje<br />

– the on-site site pperformance<br />

space<br />

of the renowned enowned ballet company.<br />

2 Flandria<br />

boat tours<br />

Londenbrug, +32 (0)3 231 3100,<br />

fl andria.nu<br />

Learn all about one of the world’s<br />

biggest ports on a special tour<br />

departing from the Kattendijkdok.<br />

The 2.5-hour trips cost €14.50,<br />

and are guided in English or Dutch.<br />

3 Alta Via<br />

Nassaustraat 29, +32 (0)3 293<br />

8733, altaviatravelbooks.be<br />

Loitering is positively encouraged<br />

at this trendy travel bookshop,<br />

which doubles as a bright and<br />

breezy br café. Great if you love the<br />

smell sm s of fresh coffee with a nice<br />

new n<br />

book.<br />

4 MAS<br />

Hanzestedenplaats 1,<br />

+32 (0)3 338 4400, mas.be<br />

Assembled like a stack of shipping<br />

containers some 60m high, the<br />

iconic Museum aan de Stroom<br />

opened its doors last May to great<br />

acclaim. Telling the story of Antwerp<br />

and its relationship with the world,<br />

it offers sensational views and fine<br />

dining at two-Michelin-starred<br />

‘t Zilte on the ninth floor.<br />

5 Lux<br />

Adriaan Brouwerstraat 13, +32<br />

(0)3 233 3030, luxantwerp.com<br />

After the Polish shipping<br />

merchants moved out the cool<br />

kids moved in. Kick back with a<br />

whisky sour at Lux’s seductively lit<br />

bar, or savour fine Belgian cuisine<br />

amid the wood panelling and<br />

marble columns of the restaurant.<br />

6 Red Star Café<br />

Van Schoonbekeplein 9,<br />

+32 476 53 61 61 redstarcafe.be<br />

One of the area’s clutch of stylish<br />

new bars, this gay-friendly hangout<br />

was named after the Red Star<br />

Line, which transported emigrants<br />

from Antwerp to North America<br />

between 1873 and 1935. Everyone<br />

from fashion designers to dock<br />

workers and their dogs come here.<br />

7 Marcel<br />

Van Schoonbekeplein 13,<br />

+32 (0)3 336 3302,<br />

restaurantmarcel.be<br />

A former seaman’s mission,<br />

Marcel is styled like a bustling<br />

1920s brasserie. Tear your eyes<br />

from the art nouveau decor and<br />

check out the menu of delicious<br />

steaks and fish dishes.<br />

8 Lait Russe<br />

Falconplein 16, +32 (0)3 226<br />

6045, laitrusse.be<br />

With its friendly, laid-back vibe, Lait<br />

Russe is certainly in keeping with<br />

the area. Take a seat outside to<br />

people-watch and enjoy a virtuous<br />

selection of sandwiches, wraps,<br />

smoothies and Fairtrade teas.<br />

18 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

fly to brussels from 50 european destinations. brusselsairlines.com<br />

ILLUSTRATION: ANTOINE CORBINEAU


20<br />

The Conrad<br />

In Brussels, the Conrad is a name that<br />

Avenue Louise 71<br />

confers instant cachet and the reality<br />

+32 (0)5 42 4242<br />

doesn’t disappoint. From the chauffeurs and<br />

conradbrussels.com<br />

luxury cars on the forecourt to the grand<br />

marble lobby, there’s a definite sense that<br />

you’re at the heart of things. Not only is the<br />

hotel situated at the top of Avenue Louise,<br />

one of the city’s best shopping streets but<br />

words emma beddington<br />

it’s also the preferred destination for<br />

dignitaries and celebrities, from Bill Clinton to Mick Jagger.<br />

The hotel’s bar, the Loui, is one of Brussels’ best, with squashy<br />

armchairs, low lighting and an award-winning barman, Nicolas<br />

Evverard. There’s also a dedicated space for cigar aficionados. The<br />

Café Wiltcher famously offers Brussels’ best Sunday brunch, with a<br />

jazz pianist and a games room to keep children happy. The Aspria<br />

health club, within the hotel complex and available to guests, has a<br />

17m pool, a large gym and six spa treatment rooms.<br />

In contrast to the buzz of the hotel’s public spaces, bedrooms<br />

are a haven of peace. My room was decorated in subtle pale greys<br />

and violets, and the Conrad bed and marshmallow-soft goosedown<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

sleep<br />

From brussels to new york, Three stylish places to enjoy some luxury and romance<br />

Hotel du Vin<br />

Hotel du Vin is an epicurean UK chain that<br />

Allan House, City Road revamps old buildings rather than building<br />

Newcastle-upon-Tyne<br />

anew. For this reason you might find<br />

+44 (0)191 229 2200<br />

yourself sleeping in a former 19th-century<br />

hotelduvin.com<br />

prison or a Victorian eye hospital.<br />

In Newcastle-upon-Tyne, the hotel group<br />

has reworked an old shipping depot<br />

overlooking the river and the new Baltic<br />

Centre for Contemporary Art. The whole<br />

area is a triumph of boho-style<br />

words adrian mourby<br />

regeneration.<br />

The hotel itself has 42 ever-so-slightly idiosyncratic rooms with<br />

monsoon showers and roll-top baths. Leather armchairs and<br />

reclaimed fireplaces abound and each room is named after a wine.<br />

The best four – La Grande Dame, Mouton Rothschild, Domaine du<br />

Valdapusa and Dom Perignon – are built with mezzanine levels<br />

gazing out on to the Tyne. Dom Perignon has a massive plasma<br />

screen TV, twin his-and-hers roll-top baths and the best views of all.<br />

Amidst the public areas lined with stripped-back brick,<br />

contemporary art and shipping memorabilia, the bistro, the winetasting<br />

room and the cigar shack known as The Bothy Lodge can<br />

be found. There is also an attractive alfresco dining area for those<br />

few weeks in the year when Newcastle is warm enough to eat<br />

outside. Local produce is a byword in the bistro and the wine list is<br />

eclectic, bordering on the eccentric. There’s a sense of fun about<br />

the place with the staff invited to speak their mind – very much a<br />

Geordie trait. From €124/£99 inclusive of taxes and breakfast.<br />

quilt were indecently comfortable. There’s space for a properly<br />

sized desk and seating area, and a huge marble bathroom with<br />

heavy brass taps and all the toiletries you could possibly need.<br />

Service is impeccable and there’s a sense that everyone – not<br />

just presidents and CEOs – is welcome. That, surely, is the mark of<br />

a truly great hotel. Doubles from €198.<br />

FLY TO brussels from 50 european destinations;<br />

newcastle three times daily. brusselsairlines.com


The Peninsula It’s all the fives at the Peninsula New<br />

555 5th Avenue & 55th Street York at the swanky end of 5th Avenue<br />

New York 10019<br />

(Central Park, The Plaza, Bergdorf<br />

peninsula.com<br />

Goodman, the Rockefeller Centre),<br />

a hotel in the grand, old-school style<br />

but minus the self-regarding<br />

stuffiness. Here, service, style and<br />

attention to detail are all artfully<br />

updated for a rather luxurious<br />

21st-century experience.<br />

words jane cunningham<br />

In this part of town, it’s all about<br />

the rooftop vibe, and at the Peninsula, you can swim,<br />

sunbathe, enjoy indulgent spa treatments, drink expertly<br />

mixed cocktails and of course swoon at the fabulous<br />

cityscape from the large terrace at Salon de Ning (described<br />

as ‘Manhattan meets 1930s Shanghai’). The Peninsula is<br />

fun, fashionable and feels like the place to be for a classic<br />

night on the town. It also possesses what is undoubtedly the<br />

best lobby in New York for a dramatic entrance, all chandeliers,<br />

outsize flowers and a beautifully symmetrical staircase.<br />

But in terms of comfort the Peninsula is the one to beat,<br />

with a range of attractively designed rooms and suites that<br />

are spacious with chic, low-key decor and furnishings. It also<br />

offers the most deliciously comfortable beds in New York<br />

(I asked where I could get one, but they wouldn’t tell). From<br />

€312/$395 per person including breakfast.<br />

FLY TO new york jfk daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

BELGIAN WONDERFOOD PLACE<br />

BRUSSELS HOT SPOT FOR FINE DINING,<br />

RELAXING, MEETING AND CELEBRATING<br />

Restaurant - Cafe - Bar - Oyster bar - Club<br />

Terrace Opening in May !<br />

Rue fossé-aux-loups 32 Wolvengrachtstraat<br />

B - 1000 Brussels<br />

T +32 (0) 217 21 87 I F +32 (0) 229 31 79<br />

info.brussels@belgaqueen.be<br />

www.belgaqueen.be<br />

Photographes © Mireille Roobaert - Louis-Philipe Breydel - Ana Carvalho<br />

ARCHITECTURAL INTERIOR DESIGN BY PINTO & CO I WWW.PINTOANDCO.BE


design<br />

melamine is back and it’s rather stylish. isabel lane selects the best for summer picnics<br />

design for life<br />

The finer things<br />

Calling all lovers of luxurious fashion and<br />

design. An exclusive little boutique has just<br />

opened, tucked away in a London mews, just<br />

a Manolo’s skip from the Lanesborough<br />

Hotel. It’s the first store from high-end<br />

e-commerce brand CoutureLab, which<br />

specialises in creative products by global<br />

Hot plates<br />

Clockwise Clockw from left: Ella Doran for Habitat;<br />

Emma Bridgewater; Anthropologie<br />

designers and artists. The store is a jewel box<br />

of handmade delights, from Olympia Le-Tann<br />

bags that resemble embroidered hardback<br />

books, to Talisman murano glass pieces. If<br />

you can’t make it to London,<br />

couturelab.com ships<br />

internationally. For some<br />

instant grandeur, we like<br />

Maison Martin Margiela’s<br />

trompe l’oeil wall sticker of<br />

If you want to embrace colour this summer there’s plenty of pretty, lightweight,<br />

melamine tableware that will add zing to your picnic blanket, camping set or<br />

garden table. Star buy has to be zany American designer Jonathan Adler’s<br />

(jonathanadler.com) new colour-popping Positano collection, featuring<br />

striking Mediterranean-inspired patterns in juicy shades. We want the entire<br />

range. Danish company Rice (rice.dk) are the go-to brand for melamine –<br />

you can find everything from cake-stands to cutlery. Its embossed dinner<br />

plates will lend an air of sophistication and come in gorgeous colours –<br />

mix and match for an eclectic look. For pretty, decorative, options the<br />

English designer Emma Bridgewater (emmabridgewater.com) has just<br />

launched the cutesy ‘Love’ emblazoned Sampler design in melamine.<br />

If it’s plates like artworks that you’re after, try Ella Doran’s kids<br />

Indiantale range for Habitat (habitat.fr), featuring photographic images<br />

of birds and tigers on a tapestry background. Meanwhile fab quirky store<br />

Anthropologie (anthropologie.eu) is always on trend. Check out their<br />

Kaleidobug plates in four colourways – who’d have thought bugs could<br />

loo look ok so chic? Now, ow, if only the ssun<br />

ssun<br />

would shine…<br />

Haussmanian Doors. 32 Grosvenor Crescent<br />

Mews, London, couturelab.com<br />

Thin Red Line<br />

If you’re travelling to Lyon, don’t miss the cool<br />

new Camper store by Rotterdam-based<br />

Studio Makkink & Bey. Illustration as a design<br />

feature is becoming a bit of a retail-interiors<br />

trend. 58 Rue de Republique, 69002, Lyon,<br />

camper.es<br />

22 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO london and lyon four times daily. brusselsairlines.com


MIKE COPPOLA<br />

the<br />

test<br />

style<br />

jenny mcneely on New York fashion cool, miracle moisturisers and English tailoring<br />

Sleep On It<br />

sidewalk catwalk<br />

New York is one of the world’s most stylish cities and photographer Bill<br />

Cunningham has spent the last 50 years cycling around Manhattan<br />

capturing the eclectic fashion of its inhabitants. Cunningham caught his<br />

big break in 1978 when a woman hurrying down the street drew his eye,<br />

or rather the cut of her coat did. He started snapping, unaware until<br />

later that he had captured on fi lm the elusive Greta Garbo.<br />

Cunningham’s dedication to the catwalk of New York’s sidewalks is<br />

enshrined in his New York Times columns, On The Street and Evening<br />

Hours. But Cunningham is far from an establishment fi gure and has<br />

always resisted working in-house, believing “the best fashion is always<br />

on the street, always has been, always will be”. His distance from the<br />

world of glossy fashion pages remains staunch. “I’m not into celebrities<br />

with their free dresses, I’m into clothes.”<br />

Perhaps because he has never courted their attention, the fashion<br />

elite is more than happy to be snapped by Cunningham. Vogue editor<br />

An Anna Wintour once noted that the worst thing that can happen is to be<br />

spott spotted on the street by Cunningham but ignored.<br />

Bi Bill Cunningham New York, a documentary on the photographer’s<br />

fas fascinating life and work is now available to buy on Amazon.<br />

■ Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair,<br />

€77.60/50ml<br />

The little brown bottle with the apothecary<br />

dropper implies a product that takes itself<br />

rather seriously – and its unfailing<br />

popularity over the last 30 years suggests<br />

it might deserve to be treated seriously.<br />

The serum smells deliciously herbal rather<br />

than artifi cial and instantly soothes skin<br />

after a day of exposure to the elements.<br />

fly to brussels from 50 european destinations; new york jfk<br />

daily; london four times daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

■ Beauty Sleep Concentrate,<br />

€37/30ml, nealsyardremedies.com<br />

This organic product boldly promises to<br />

increase skin’s moisture levels by up to<br />

98% over 12 hours. The regenerative<br />

narcissus tazetta bulb extract and<br />

antioxidant-rich grape seed oil does<br />

leave the skin feeling very soft, despite<br />

the meagre amount recommended for<br />

use. The essential oils, particularly the<br />

lavender, are perfect for nighttime too.<br />

■ Crème de la Mer, €104/30ml<br />

This is a very thick cream, but the trick<br />

according to its makers, is to work it<br />

between the fi ngers before patting gently<br />

on to the skin. This much acclaimed<br />

‘miracle cream’ is a blend of sea kelp,<br />

vitamins and minerals plus citrus,<br />

eucalyptus, wheatgerm, alfalfa and<br />

sunfl ower oils. When used regularly the<br />

cream gives undeniably impressive<br />

results in terms of regulating skin tone<br />

and eliminating blemishes such as thread<br />

veins and minimising fi ne lines. May well<br />

be worth its intimidating price tag.<br />

store<br />

front<br />

Quintessentially British<br />

men’s outfi tter, Hackett<br />

London, is set on<br />

sharpening up European<br />

wardrobes with new stores<br />

opening in Milan, Italy and<br />

Hasselt, Belgium. The<br />

fl agship store in Milan fi lls<br />

two fl oors and is located on<br />

Via Manzoni; the third store<br />

to open in Belgium is located<br />

in Hasselt (51 Kapelstraat) in<br />

an elegant townhouse<br />

complete with Chesterfi eld<br />

sofas. Spiffi ng.<br />

Brussels’ ultra cool boutique<br />

Hunting and Collecting<br />

(17 Rue Des Chartreux) is<br />

living up to its promise of<br />

exhibiting contemporary<br />

culture alongside its<br />

carefully curated fashion<br />

with a photography<br />

exhibition by Thierry<br />

Cosson. Eighty Nine Days is<br />

a collection of black and<br />

white images spanning the<br />

artist’s journey through NYC.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 25


Smart<br />

movers<br />

in Lyon<br />

eco<br />

roger east trumpets three encouraging projects in new york, Lyon and ketzin<br />

France’s second city is already the proud<br />

home of the Velo’V cycle scheme copied by<br />

Paris and London and now New York. But<br />

traffic congestion can be a transport<br />

nightmare, so now Lyon is aiming for a<br />

bigger European first, with the Optimod<br />

smart mobility system. Launched in April and intended to be<br />

fully working within three years, Optimod’s goal is to get<br />

people and goods moving from one part of Lyon to another<br />

by the quickest, cheapest and greenest means possible,<br />

whatever the time of day.<br />

Users will experience this small miracle in the form of a<br />

simple GPS-linked smartphone app. It will advise them not<br />

only which route to take, but when and how to find the best<br />

method of travel – be it train, bus, tram or metro, truck, car,<br />

bike or even foot.<br />

If it all works as envisaged, private vehicle use should fall<br />

by 8% and carbon dioxide emissions by 200,000 tonnes a<br />

year as more people (and freight) switch to public transport.<br />

carbon<br />

capture<br />

in Ketzin<br />

Branching<br />

out<br />

in New<br />

York<br />

This spring, the city has been giving<br />

out fig trees, ornamental Japanese<br />

maples, flowering cherries and the<br />

like to interested individuals and<br />

groups across New York’s five<br />

boroughs. Anyone is eligible for a<br />

free sapling if they’ve a suitable planting space.<br />

It’s all part of a 10-year campaign, now reaching its<br />

halfway mark, to plant a million trees by 2017. Backed<br />

by Mayor Michael Bloomberg, it’s designed to green the<br />

city and offset its greenhouse gas emissions. Already<br />

500,000 trees have been planted, the majority of them<br />

on public land, by the New York Restoration Project and<br />

the Department of Parks and Recreation. This year, by<br />

distributing 5,000 fruiting and ornamental varieties,<br />

they’re encouraging even more popular participation<br />

after freak snowstorms at Halloween last year<br />

destroyed 1,000 trees in Central Park alone.<br />

The value of urban trees in locking up emissions<br />

and quantifying carbon storage in cities was recently<br />

underlined by research at the UK’s Durrell Institute of<br />

Conservation which showed that in a densely populated<br />

city, vegetation creates a significant carbon pool –<br />

which can be boosted 12% by planting trees on just<br />

one tenth of publicly owned or managed grassland.<br />

Just west of Berlin, work is taking place on a key<br />

process to combat climate change. Some 600m<br />

beneath the town of Ketzin, carbon dioxide captured at<br />

a nearby hydrogen production plant is being injected<br />

into a saline aquifer below the limestone rock. By next<br />

summer, Europe’s first such CO2 storage project should<br />

have amassed five years of crucial data for evaluating the safety, stability<br />

and long-term viability of handling carbon emissions in this way.<br />

Carbon capture and storage (CCS) is controversial and some see the<br />

technology as fatally flawed. If waved as a ‘get out of jail free card’, will it<br />

encourage the building of coal-burning power plants, by holding out a<br />

promise of eventually capturing and storing their emissions? Will CCS<br />

research swallow up funds that could support zero-carbon renewable<br />

energy alternatives? And will it, perversely, provide a big win for the oil<br />

and gas industry via ‘enhanced recovery’, a technique for driving out more<br />

oil and gas from semi-exhausted fields by pumping in pressurised CO2?<br />

Plans for EU-backed CCS projects at industrial scale are only just<br />

getting started. But at the rate the world is belching out carbon<br />

emissions, what Ketzin can tell us is likely to prove very relevant.<br />

26 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO new york jfk daily; lyon four times daily; berlin six times daily. brusselsairlines.com


4CORNERS; MELISSA HOM; MEGAN EAGLES<br />

eat: brooklyn<br />

joe warwick finds a rather good ‘hipster redneck’ joint in the heart of williamsburg<br />

Punting a typically shabby<br />

but cool vibe, St Anselm,<br />

above, sits in the heart of<br />

Brooklyn’s über-cool<br />

Williamsburg, right<br />

appetiser<br />

This month, three delicious cookbooks<br />

for your kitchen table<br />

Don’t Sweat The Aubergine: What works in the<br />

kitchen and why Nicholas Clee, Transworld Books<br />

This little book takes us behind recipes to the basic<br />

cooking techniques that are actually what you need to<br />

be a decent cook. Clee deconstructs recipes with a bit<br />

of science and lot of common sense. Fascinating.<br />

FLY TO new york jfk daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

Food: Vegetarian Home Cooking ing Mary<br />

McCartney, Chatto & Windus<br />

Mary McCartney, being the<br />

daughter of Linda and Paul<br />

McCartney, is veggie royalty, and<br />

her dedication to a meatless life<br />

is on every page of this book.<br />

McCartney is a professional<br />

photographer and her simple recipes pes<br />

are illustrated with gorgeous photos. tos.<br />

St Anselm<br />

355 Metropolitan Ave (between North 4th Street and<br />

Havemeyer Street), Brooklyn, New York 11211<br />

+1 (718) 384 5054, no reservations<br />

Since it sits in the hipster heart of Brooklyn that is Williamsburg, I’m<br />

assuming that St Anselm 1.0, which closed after less than a year back<br />

in 2010, wasn’t clever or cool enough for the locals. With a menu that<br />

deep-fried everything from foie gras dumplings to hot dogs, diners<br />

stayed away in droves for fear they’d no longer be able fit their skinny<br />

jeans and climb back on their fixed-gear bikes. On a more serious note,<br />

not being able to get a liquor licence didn’t help.<br />

It was a first hiccup for Joe Carroll, the brains behind the acclaimed<br />

and Bourbon-soaked BBQ joint, Fette Sau, and craft beer-peddling bar,<br />

Spuyten Duyvil. The former sits<br />

just down the street in what was there’s a lot of<br />

an old auto-body repair shop, the meat, notably the<br />

latter beside St Anselm.<br />

‘axe-handle’ rib<br />

When St Anselm re-opened last<br />

autumn, the deep-fat fryers and eye of beef for two,<br />

the griddle were gone, replaced bone-trimmed too<br />

with a wood and gas-fired grill.<br />

The interior is much the same as it was before; a fine example of what I<br />

like to call ‘hipster-redneck’ – artfully distressed dark varnished wood,<br />

exposed brick, bar and stools. The iPod judders from Led Zeppelin to<br />

Belle & Sebastian and back via a bit of Dolly Parton.<br />

Naturally there’s a lot of meat on the grill, notably the ‘axe-handle’ rib<br />

eye of beef for two, bone-trimmed to give it that cave-man aesthetic.<br />

Elsewhere that grill is put to use on various cuts of lamb and pork and,<br />

just as successfully, on vegetables – from increasingly ubiquitous<br />

shishito peppers to aubergine and tomatoes. Fish meets grill in the form<br />

of whole mackerel and trout, salmon steaks and prawns.<br />

Although they’ve now got their booze licence, there’s no hard liquor<br />

here, just craft beers and a rather adventurous wine list that’s not afraid<br />

to be quirky in its selections from the Old and New World.<br />

St Anselm may be too cool to have a website but check out fettesaubbq.com,<br />

spuytenduyvilnyc.com or the comprehensive food section at nymag.com<br />

The Skinny Skinn French Kitchen<br />

Harry EEastwood,<br />

Bantam Press<br />

A cookbook cookbo with ‘skinny’ in the title is<br />

a little little off-putting of for the average<br />

gastronome ga<br />

but Harry Eastwood<br />

shows how to prepare lighter<br />

versions v of French classics<br />

that th facilitate, rather than limit,<br />

indulgence ind of dauphinois,<br />

macarons maca<br />

and chocolate souffle.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 29


Gino Cukrowicz,<br />

at your service at<br />

Ginotti's watch store<br />

THE WATCH STORE<br />

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WWW.GINOTTI.COM<br />

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Greubel Forsey Hautience Ikepod I W C Jaeger - Lecoultre<br />

Richard Mille Roger Dubuis Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Vertu


GETTY IMAGES<br />

on the road: tuscany<br />

Cindy-Lou Dale takes a supercar-inspired culinary tour of bologna, florence and parma<br />

I<br />

taly is famous for its noble cities; always bustling with life but<br />

also home to quiet corners, cobbled alleyways and the piety of<br />

moss-softened stone. It draws you in so powerfully that it would<br />

be easy to be seduced into never leaving. But leave I must, by way of a<br />

souped-up supercar, on a mission to seek out exquisite boltholes in<br />

Tuscany: places to soothe the soul and tantalise the palate.<br />

In Bologna I collect the new Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder Performate,<br />

a mouthful to say and a handful to drive. It’s a stripped-down, low-cal<br />

version of the normal Spyder, making extensive use of carbon fibre to<br />

FLY TO bologna twice daily; Florence daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

deliver an improved power-to-weight ratio and a load of fun. My first<br />

destination is only a few kilometres down the road at Nonantola’s Osteria<br />

di Rubbiara, a rustic, centuries-old tavern that backs on to the Pedroni<br />

family’s vineyard – home, unquestionably, to the best pasta in the region.<br />

The hearty food is provided in festive quantities and arrives in degrees of<br />

excellence. Ask for a tour of their balsamic vinegar cellar – it’s an<br />

education for the mind and the palate.<br />

By the time I leave, a crowd of onlookers has formed around the car,<br />

silently captivated by its muscular looks, but they quickly scatter,<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 31


CINDY LOU DALE, CORBIS, GETTY IMAGES; ILLUSTRATION: SARAH OTLEY<br />

laughing, as the V10 engine roars into life. Avoiding the main A1, I choose<br />

instead the back roads across the flat, pastureland of Emilia Romagna, to<br />

test out my new steed. The car’s taut, precise steering and blistering pace<br />

make short work of the trip to Antica Corte<br />

Pallavicina – a grand 15th-century palace in Polesine.<br />

Once owned by Verdi, it’s now a boutique hotelcum-cook-school<br />

and one of Italy’s eight producers<br />

of the famed Culatello ham – required to hang for<br />

three years before earning its reputation – of which<br />

Prince Charles is a big fan.<br />

The hotel provides Ristorante Al Cavallino Bianco<br />

with the majority of chef Massimo Spigaroli’s raw produce, including<br />

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses, bread, salamis and wine. The chef’s alltime<br />

classic tortelli, stuffed with creamy ricotta and bitter greens is a<br />

local favourite. So, too, is his semifreddo – a deliciously nutty ice-cream<br />

cake. This intimate restaurant is a gastronomic must-dine experience.<br />

Top to bottom:<br />

Parma Cathedral;<br />

Florence at dusk;<br />

cheeses hanging in<br />

the cellar of Antica<br />

Corte Pallavicina<br />

i keep praying for<br />

the next tunnel<br />

where the sound<br />

of the engine<br />

becomes explosive<br />

Again avoiding the highways, I drive through the hills heading west<br />

from Parma; at first following the course of the Stirone River then cross<br />

country, down into the Taro valley and my next stop Borgo Casale – an<br />

exquisitely restored, medieval mountain village. The<br />

quantities of luscious homemade pasta with wild<br />

mushrooms drizzled with extra virgin olive oil<br />

presented at Casimiro e voi Ristorante makes it<br />

worth finding.<br />

The next day starts with a 50km fun-run down<br />

towards the Ligurian sea. The Lamborghini’s six-speed<br />

e-gear transmission changes up and down<br />

effortlessly, leaving me to concentrate on the road. With the top down<br />

and the V10 in full voice, I just keep praying for the next tunnel where the<br />

sound of the engine will move from theatrical to explosive. Italians love<br />

this car and my entire drive to Artimino, just 27km west of Florence, sees<br />

camera phones thrust out of car windows, which at the speeds I am<br />

32 JUNE <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO bologna twice daily; Florence daily. brusselsairlines.com


ILLUSTRATION: SARAH OTLEY<br />

travelling is both flattering and dangerous. As we near<br />

Artimino, we spot Pageria Medicea, a gracious Tuscan villa<br />

on a hill surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. Its<br />

restaurant, Biagio Pignatta, has an historic ambience and<br />

jaw-dropping views across the countryside. Quite simply, it’s<br />

a little temple to innovative Tuscan cuisine – try their risotto<br />

with turnip tops and spicy salami.<br />

The following day I head east and, after a quick drive<br />

through the chaotic Florentine rush hour, I come me to Borgo<br />

San Lorenzo, a rural village with a network of cobbled obbled<br />

alleyways and Ristorante Degli Artisti, a cosy eatery atery with an<br />

impressive wine selection and a small yet dynamic amic menu.<br />

The cauliflower and black truffle cappellotti alone one<br />

makes the trip worthwhile – while the<br />

mascarpone cheesecake is an excellent<br />

midnight snack.<br />

The moment I was dreading is upon me soon enough –<br />

handing back the Lamborghini. One last triumphant thrash<br />

through the Italian countryside is in order, and the glorious<br />

SP65 back road to Bologna delivers a memorable<br />

experience. Driving a supercar anywhere in the world gets<br />

you noticed, but in Italy so much more so. It’s hard to<br />

decide which is more rewarding: the unbelievable handling<br />

and performance of the car, or the attention you get<br />

through driving it.<br />

restaurant<br />

guide<br />

■ Osteria di<br />

Rubbiara, Via Risaia<br />

2, Frazione di<br />

Rubbiara, 41015<br />

Nonantola<br />

+39 0595 49019<br />

acetaiapedroni.it<br />

■ Antica Corte<br />

Pallavicina, Strada<br />

del Palazzo Due<br />

Torri, 3, 43010<br />

Polesine Parmense<br />

+39 0524 936 539<br />

acpallavicina.com<br />

■ Ristorante Al<br />

Cavallino Bianco,<br />

Via Sbrisi, 2, 43010<br />

Polesine Parmense<br />

+39 0524 96136<br />

acpallavicina.com<br />

■ Borgo Casale,<br />

Loc. Casale,<br />

43051, Albareto<br />

+39 0525 9290 3233<br />

borgocasale.com<br />

■ Paggeria Medicea<br />

Artimino SpA, Viale<br />

Papa, Giovanni XXIII<br />

1, 59015. Artimino<br />

Carmignano, Prato<br />

+39 055 875 141<br />

artimino.com<br />

■ Ristorante Degli<br />

Artisti, Pizza<br />

Romagnoli 1, Borgo<br />

San Lorenzo<br />

+39 055 845 7707<br />

ristorantedegliartisti.it<br />

ris risto to t<br />

SPEC<br />

Lamborghini Gallardo<br />

Spyder LP570-4<br />

Performance<br />

The trimmed down,<br />

convertible version of<br />

the Gallardo Spyder<br />

(which is no slouch in<br />

its own right) offers<br />

brutal acceleration and<br />

nimble handling.<br />

Engine<br />

V10, 570 bhp<br />

Acceleration<br />

0-100 km/h in 3.9 sec<br />

Top speed<br />

324 km/h<br />

Price<br />

€182,900<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

33


perfect 10<br />

matthew lee discovers 10 brilliant independent bookshops across the network<br />

Reports of the death of the bookshop are greatly exaggerated. Kindles and iPads<br />

may be bad news for some stores, but businesses with character and charm<br />

that have faith in the timeless appeal of paper and ink continue to thrive.<br />

Here are 10 unmissable stores to enjoy a good leisurely browse.<br />

London Review<br />

Bookshop<br />

14 Bury Place, London<br />

+44 (0)20 7269 9030, lrbshop.co.uk<br />

The cardamom and white chocolate brownie is<br />

reason enough to visit this bookshop. Run by<br />

the famously intellectual brains behind the<br />

London Review of Books, you can be confident<br />

in staff recommendations.<br />

Livraria Lello<br />

Rua das Carmelitas 144, Porto +351<br />

22 200 2037, lelloprologoliveiro.com.sapo/pt<br />

Owned by the Lello family for over a century,<br />

this Porto bookshop offers an eclectic range of<br />

titles, a stunning stained-glass ceiling and the<br />

most spectacular stairway in the history of<br />

retail – spiralling up the neo-gothic interior with<br />

precise symmetry to the tiny coffee shop above.<br />

Altair<br />

Gran Via Corts Catalanes 616,<br />

Barcelona +34 93 342 71 71, altair.es<br />

Claimed as the largest<br />

travel bookshop in<br />

Europe, you’ll need a<br />

compass to navigate<br />

Altair’s shelves.<br />

Aside from the<br />

thousands of<br />

guides and maps<br />

there are also<br />

geography, nature<br />

and anthropology<br />

sections. A dose of<br />

wanderlust comes<br />

free with every<br />

purchase.<br />

Livraria<br />

Lello, Porto<br />

Another<br />

Country<br />

Riemannstrasse 7,<br />

Berlin +49 30 69<br />

40 1160, anothercountry.de<br />

fly to 50 european destinations from brussels. brusselsairlines.com<br />

Calling itself a ‘bookshop-library-club’,<br />

Another Country must be Berlin’s most social<br />

place for picking up paperbacks. There are<br />

regular quiz nights, communal dinners, poetry<br />

recitals, film screenings, German classes and<br />

book groups.<br />

The Strand<br />

828 Broadway, New York<br />

+1 212 473 1452, strandbooks.com<br />

An East Village landmark, this vast bookshop’s<br />

motto is ‘18 Miles of Books’. Come for the thrill<br />

of the epic quest to bag bargains in the endless<br />

rooms of new, second-hand, rare and out-ofprint<br />

titles. Prices are competitive, and staff are<br />

(intimidatingly) knowledgeable.<br />

Travelling<br />

Man<br />

4-4A Dale Street,<br />

Manchester<br />

+44 (0)161 237 1877,<br />

travellingman.com<br />

This famously friendly<br />

comic emporium will<br />

delight your inner<br />

geek. Talks, signings<br />

and workshops<br />

happen here on most<br />

days, and there’s<br />

an emphasis on<br />

showcasing talented local<br />

artists and writers.<br />

Cook & Book,<br />

Brussels<br />

Cook<br />

& Book<br />

Place du Temps<br />

Libre 1, 1200<br />

Woluwe-Saint-Lambert,<br />

Brussels, +32 (0)2 761<br />

2600, cookandbook.be<br />

Enjoy a three-course meal while checking out<br />

the bestseller lists. In fact, you can spy an<br />

impressive range of titles in French, Dutch and<br />

English from the comfort of your dining table.<br />

Sweden Bookshop<br />

Slottsbacken 10, Stockholm<br />

+46 8 453 7800, swedenbookshop.com<br />

A wonderful shop offering 2,000 titles by<br />

Swedish writers translated into 47 languages.<br />

Stieg Larsson and Henning Mankell dominate,<br />

but check out lesser known crime authors such<br />

as Camilla Lackberg and Johan Theorin.<br />

Bookabar<br />

Via Milano 15/17 (inside the Palazzo<br />

delle Esposizioni), Rome +39 06 4897 7288<br />

Residing within the splendid Palazzo delle<br />

Esposizioni, Bookabar – airy, light, spacious<br />

and impossibly cool – specialises in art, design<br />

and architecture.<br />

Red Bus Books<br />

Semmelweis utca 14, Budapest V<br />

+36 6 1 337 7453, redbusbooks.com<br />

Its name hints at anglophilia and sure enough<br />

Red Bus is loaded floor-to-ceiling with Englishlanguage<br />

titles. A gimmick-free, old-school<br />

bookshop, with thousands of titles in good<br />

condition and all priced between €3 and €5.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 35


Joe Keohane walks you through the city’s<br />

five famous boroughs: Manhattan, Brooklyn,<br />

Queens, the Bronx and Staten Island, with<br />

a special mention for Harlem too


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GETTY IMAGES; PREVIOUS PAGE ILLUSTRATION: REIN VYNCKE<br />

A<br />

fter being left for dead in the<br />

1970s, New York City has come<br />

back in a way few could have<br />

predicted. Today, even amid the soft<br />

economy, the city is flourishing. The Big<br />

Apple is a world away from its dirty,<br />

dangerous former self, but it remains a big,<br />

challenging, culturally rich, weird, wonderful<br />

and completely inspiring town. And one<br />

well worth exploring more widely (yes, that<br />

means leaving the Island of Manhattan).<br />

Before we commence our whirlwind<br />

tour, a brief word on the locals. Yes, they<br />

have a reputation for being pushy, curt,<br />

and even downright rude. And yes, many a<br />

traveller has returned feeling perhaps a bit<br />

bruised by the experience. But here’s the<br />

thing: New Yorkers are in fact, by nature,<br />

surprisingly gracious, giving, talkative and<br />

curious. And they will be all of those things<br />

to you on one condition: do not get in their<br />

way. So avoid stopping in the middle of the<br />

sidewalk or on stairwells, and don’t stand in<br />

the doors on the trains. That way you will<br />

find yourself welcomed, chatted up,<br />

helped, befriended and delighted. Most<br />

importantly, you’ll be clued in to some of<br />

the city’s less tourist-clogged attractions.<br />

That is the key to enjoying the city.<br />

Manhattan<br />

Even to those who live in New York City’s<br />

other four boroughs, Manhattan is known<br />

simply as ‘The City’. Initially populated by<br />

the Lenape tribe (the name roughly means<br />

‘land of many hills’), Manhattan was settled<br />

by the Dutch in the 17th century, conquered<br />

by the British shortly thereafter and, in<br />

time, grew to become America’s economic<br />

and cultural powerhouse. Over a million<br />

and a half people live on this slender island<br />

of less than 30 square miles, and a million<br />

more come here to work every day. It<br />

burns palpably with energy and ambition,<br />

light and speed – all of which can, in turn,<br />

burn out its visitors with astonishing rapidity.<br />

So here’s the trick: minimise time spent<br />

in Midtown. Yes, make a pass through to<br />

experience the spectacle of the island’s<br />

famous canyons, take a stroll in Central<br />

Park, check out the view from atop the<br />

Rockefeller Centre (especially if you are a<br />

30 Rock fan), and, just once, allow yourself<br />

to get swept up by the crowds during rush<br />

hour to feel that charge.<br />

But to really enjoy Manhattan, go<br />

downtown. Tour Greenwich Village, the<br />

gorgeous one-time bohemian stronghold<br />

turned monied urban oasis. Hang out at<br />

FLY TO new york jfk daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

Chinatown in<br />

lower Manhattan<br />

Washington Square Park and watch the<br />

buskers compete for spare dollars amid<br />

people from all walks of life. Sample exotic<br />

foods in the rapidly expanding Chinatown,<br />

and head next door to the Lower East Side,<br />

where generations of immigrants have<br />

passed through (the excellent Tenement<br />

Museum will bring you up to speed on the<br />

history), and sample the cool bars and<br />

world-class ethnic cuisine. Or just stroll<br />

aimlessly and let downtown surprise you.<br />

It will oblige.<br />

Must see/do: The High Line, on the edge<br />

of the West Village, a reclaimed, elevated<br />

railroad now converted into a stunning park<br />

that locals have completely fallen in love<br />

with. Also home to the über-cool Standard<br />

Hotel, reputed to be one of Madonna’s<br />

favourite hang-outs.<br />

Harlem<br />

Often assumed to be one of New York’s<br />

boroughs, Harlem is actually at the<br />

northern end of Manhattan and begins at<br />

the tip of Central Park at 110th Street, but<br />

it’s included here because it’s too good to<br />

miss and such a famous and influential<br />

place deserves a section of its own.<br />

staten<br />

island<br />

Long one of the city’s most vibrant<br />

and interesting neighbourhoods, Harlem<br />

(named for Haarlem, in Holland) attracted<br />

global attention in the 1920s, during the<br />

‘Harlem Renaissance’. For a spectacular few<br />

years, artists such as Duke Ellington and<br />

Langston Hughes kindled what became one<br />

of America’s greatest and most influential<br />

artistic booms. Back then, nightclubs and<br />

speakeasies thrummed all hours. The<br />

reverberations are still being felt.<br />

Manhattan<br />

harlem<br />

brooklyn<br />

the<br />

bronx<br />

queens<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 39


NEW YORK<br />

Clockwise from above: The Brooklyn Museum; PS1, the<br />

Queens outpost of Manhattan’s MOMA (Museum of<br />

Modern Art); Harlem’s world-famous Apollo Theatre<br />

For all its glitz and inspiration, Harlem was<br />

hit hard during the Great Depression, and<br />

deteriorated badly in the half century that<br />

followed, reaching its nadir, like so much of<br />

New York City, in the 1970s. But the<br />

neighbourhood never lost its soul, and it’s<br />

on the upswing today, gentrifying, and still<br />

predominantly African-American.<br />

Among the world-famous spots are<br />

Columbia University, the Apollo Theatre –<br />

the once-fearsome proving ground for acts<br />

like Smokey Robinson, James Brown and<br />

Aretha Franklin; and Sylvia’s Harlem<br />

Restaurant on Lenox Avenue (aka Malcolm<br />

X Boulevard), which has been dishing out<br />

legendary soul food for 50 years. These<br />

days the hot ticket is Red Rooster where<br />

President Obama has been known to hold<br />

fundraisers. After dinner you’ll need a walk,<br />

so head over to the Mount Morris historic<br />

district to check out some truly stunning<br />

residential architecture.<br />

Must see/do: The Apollo on Amateur<br />

Night. American music simply would not be<br />

what it is, were it not for the visibility – and<br />

ruthless vetting – the former burlesque<br />

theatre offers hungry young talent.<br />

Brooklyn<br />

New York City’s most populous borough,<br />

Brooklyn has undergone vast<br />

transformations since it was incorporated<br />

into the city in 1896 (when the eponymous<br />

bridge was built). Once a flourishing<br />

working-class area for immigrant<br />

populations, much of Brooklyn fell into<br />

blight and anomie in New York’s bad old<br />

days of the 1960s and 1970s. Today, it’s<br />

booming like never before. Rising rents in<br />

Manhattan pushed much of the creative<br />

community out and they settled here,<br />

establishing Brooklyn as a dominant force<br />

in art, music and artisanal goods.<br />

To see it in action, head out to<br />

Williamsburg, the former industrial zone<br />

where many such artists established a<br />

beachhead back in the 1990s, to stroll the<br />

shops and bars on Bedford Avenue. If you’re<br />

adventurous, take the L train to gritty<br />

Bushwick, which is where the artists went<br />

when they were priced out of Williamsburg.<br />

Next, get a taste of fabled ‘Brownstone<br />

Brooklyn’ by heading south to leafy, ‘tony’<br />

Brooklyn Heights, long a bastion of money,<br />

even when Brooklyn was in trouble. Next,<br />

tour Cobble Hill and Carroll Gardens,<br />

beautiful neighbourhoods full of families,<br />

and independent stores and restaurants.<br />

Finally, catch a show at the Brooklyn<br />

Academy of Music, or an exhibit at the<br />

Brooklyn Museum, two long-running<br />

cultural institutions that can match nearly<br />

anything happening in Manhattan.<br />

Must see/do: The Brooklyn Heights<br />

Promenade – people will sit on those<br />

benches for hours, just taking in the city’s<br />

best view of Manhattan (quietly, and from a<br />

safe distance).<br />

Queens<br />

The city’s largest borough in terms of land<br />

mass, Queens is also the single most<br />

ethnically diverse place in the world, with<br />

immigrants from all corners of the globe<br />

speaking over 100 different languages.<br />

Even languages that have died in their<br />

native countries (like Vlashki – an Istro-<br />

Romanian dialect once spoken in Croatia)<br />

can be heard on the streets here.<br />

It comes as no surprise then, that the<br />

main draw for visitors is food. If it’s ethnic,<br />

you can get it in Queens’ restaurants and<br />

food trucks in its purest form, whether<br />

you’re craving Mexican, Croatian, Jewish,<br />

Guyanese, Chinese or any crazy fusion<br />

thereof. Want some helpful tips on where<br />

to go? Ask your cabbie. The odds are he<br />

lives in Queens.<br />

Once you’ve sated yourself on Queens’<br />

culinary delights, head to PS1 in Long<br />

Island City (a Queens neighbourhood,<br />

confusingly), just across the East River<br />

from Manhattan. It’s an excellent<br />

contemporary art museum affiliated with<br />

Manhattan’s Museum of Modern Art,<br />

housed in a former public school building.<br />

Not far from that is the fascinating<br />

Museum of the Moving Image, where you<br />

can take a tour through the history of TV<br />

and cinema, and learn the finer points of<br />

editing, scoring and filming.<br />

Finally, for those of you who might<br />

blanch at the cost of a ticket to a Yankees<br />

game, take the train to Citi Field to catch a<br />

Mets game. Tickets are cheap and readily<br />

available, mainly because the Mets are so<br />

bad, but there’s no better way to pass a<br />

pleasant summer evening than settling in<br />

with a couple of beers and hotdogs.<br />

Must see/do: Jackson Heights: the<br />

epicentre of Queens’ wildly polyglot food<br />

culture, this is the place for a lively dinner.<br />

The Bronx<br />

Once a place few tourists dared to visit, the<br />

Bronx (named after Dutch explorer Jonas<br />

Bronck) became part of New York City in<br />

1898. It spent the first half-century of its<br />

40 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO new york jfk daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

ALAMY; ADAM HUSTED; ILLUSTRATION: REIN VYNCKE


NEW YORK<br />

existence hosting European immigrants,<br />

and the second half, sadly, going somewhat<br />

to pieces. When New York hit hard times,<br />

the Bronx, which by then was populated<br />

mostly by African-Americans and<br />

Hispanics, was hit harder than most. Whole<br />

swathes of the South Bronx burned in the<br />

1960s and 1970s and have yet to recover.<br />

But from the ashes came America’s first<br />

original art form since jazz: hip-hop, which<br />

gives the Bronx its outsized cultural cachet.<br />

These days you can trace the history of the<br />

idiom at the Bronx Museum of the Arts<br />

(see our interview with its executive<br />

director, Holly Block, on page 12).<br />

After taking in the world famous Bronx<br />

beat, head to the lovely Bronx Botanical<br />

Gardens to see the world-class collection<br />

of orchids, then on to the Bronx Zoo – one<br />

of the best on earth – and finish your day<br />

with dinner on Arthur Avenue, the<br />

borough’s ‘Little Italy’, which is flourishing<br />

even as Manhattan’s increasingly<br />

overpriced tourist-trap version is fast<br />

swallowed up by an expanding Chinatown<br />

(the Bronx version is less touristy and has<br />

better food). Finally, if you can swing it,<br />

catch the Yankees, AKA ‘The Bronx<br />

Bombers’, at the brand new Yankee<br />

Stadium. But beware: it will cost you.<br />

Must see/do: The Congo Gorilla Forest<br />

at the wonderful Bronx Zoo. It’s an entirely<br />

mesmerising experience to watch the 20<br />

western lowland gorillas go about their<br />

daily business.<br />

Staten Island<br />

Staten Island, which joined New York City<br />

in 1898, is New York’s least populated and<br />

most suburban borough, which is why it’s<br />

often overlooked by tourists, diminished by<br />

dwellers of the Big Apple’s more urban<br />

Above: The world-famous Yankees baseball stadium<br />

in the Bronx; Below: The Staten Island ferry with the<br />

Verrazano Bridge just behind<br />

neighbourhoods and neglected by the city.<br />

Despite the local authorities’ efforts to<br />

brand the borough as more than just the<br />

home of the iconic, bright orange Staten<br />

Island Ferry, it still remains the best reason<br />

to come here.<br />

It can be picked up in Lower Manhattan<br />

for free, and the trip en route to the St<br />

George Ferry Terminal delivers some of the<br />

greatest low-angle views of the city you’ll<br />

find. Once you’re on the island, take a short<br />

bus ride to historic Richmond Town to get<br />

a glimpse of what 17th-century life was like<br />

here, or check out Fort Wadsworth, which<br />

played a pivotal role in protecting New York<br />

Harbour from the British during the War of<br />

1812, and which actively stood sentry over<br />

these waters for more than two centuries.<br />

Must see/do: The view of Manhattan from<br />

the ferry, or, if the timing is right, the<br />

Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, the eighthlongest<br />

in the world, when it plays host to<br />

the start of the New York City Marathon in<br />

November every year.<br />

FR<br />

Au coeur des quartiers<br />

Le new-yorkais Joe Keohane nous emmène à<br />

travers les cinq « boroughs » de la ville<br />

Manhattan Ne vous attardez pas dans le Midtown.<br />

Faites plutôt un tour de Greenwich Village, autrefois<br />

haut lieu de la vie bohème. Savourez la cuisine<br />

exotique de Chinatown, en constante expansion, et<br />

rejoignez les bars trendy du Lower East Side, où vivent<br />

des générations d’immigrants – le Tenement Museum<br />

vous donnera un bon aperçu de cette histoire.<br />

Brooklyn Jadis la banlieue fl orissante des immigrants<br />

de la classe ouvrière, une grande partie de Brooklyn<br />

s’est détériorée dans les années 60 et 70. Aujourd’hui,<br />

ce quartier revit, grâce à la communauté artistique,<br />

chassée de Manhattan sous la pression des prix<br />

des loyers.<br />

Queens C’est dans le Queens que se concentre la<br />

plus grande diversité ethnique au monde. Rien de<br />

surprenant donc, à ce que la cuisine y soit le principal<br />

attrait pour les visiteurs. Mexicain, croate, juif,<br />

guyanais, chinois… Tous les goûts y sont représentés.<br />

Sautez dans le train vers Citi Field pour assister à<br />

un match des Mets. Les tickets sont bon marché et<br />

disponibles rapidement. Quel plaisir de passer une<br />

soirée d’été, autour d’une bière et d’un hotdog.<br />

The Bronx Au moment où New York traversait des<br />

moments diffi ciles, le Bronx fut le plus durement<br />

frappé. Des pans entiers du South Bronx ont brûlé<br />

dans les années 60 et 70, sans être restaurés.<br />

Mais de ses cendres est née la première forme d’art<br />

originale depuis le jazz : le hip-hop. Découvrez cette<br />

histoire au Bronx Museum of the Arts (voyez notre<br />

interview avec sa directrice Holly Block, p.14).<br />

Allez dîner sur Arthur Avenue, le « Little Italy » de<br />

l’endroit. Enfi n, assistez à un match des Yankees, alias<br />

« The Bronx Bombers ».<br />

Staten Island Malgré les efforts des autorités locales<br />

pour donner au quartier une autre image que celle de<br />

centre du Staten Island Ferry, la meilleure raison pour<br />

se rendre ici reste... le ferry.<br />

NL Wijkgeneugten<br />

New Yorker Joe Keohane evalueert New Yorks<br />

vijf beroemde buurten<br />

Manhattan Bezoek Greenwich Village, het Bohemer<br />

bolwerk. Proef van exotische gerechten in Chinatown<br />

en ga naar het trendy Lower East Side en het<br />

Tenement Museum.<br />

Brooklyn Brooklyn was ooit een succesvolle<br />

arbeiderswijk voor immigranten. Vandaag groeide<br />

Brooklyn uit tot hart van kunst en muziek. De stijgende<br />

huurprijzen in Manhattan zorgden voor de uittocht van<br />

een groot deel van de creatieve gemeenschap.<br />

Queens Nergens vind je meer etnische diversiteit dan in<br />

Queens. Niet verwonderlijk komen de meeste bezoekers<br />

hier voor het eten, of je nu houdt van Mexicaans,<br />

Kroaats, Joods, Guyaans, Chinees...<br />

Neem de trein naar Citi Field en ga naar een match<br />

van de Mets. De tickets zijn goedkoop.<br />

De Bronx Tijdens New Yorks moeilijke tijden, kregen<br />

de Bronx het bijzonder hard te verduren. Hele delen<br />

van de South Bronx stonden in de jaren ’60 en ’70<br />

in lichterlaaie.<br />

Maar hier groeide Amerika’s eerste originele<br />

kunstvorm sinds de jazz: hip-hop. Leer meer over de<br />

geschiedenis in het Bronx Museum of the Arts (zie ook<br />

interview met executive director Holly Block, p.14).<br />

Ga zeker ook eens eten op Arthur Avenue, het ‘Little<br />

Italy’ en pik een match mee van de Yankees, AKA ‘The<br />

Bronx Bombers’.<br />

Staten Island Ondanks de inspanningen van de<br />

plaatselijke autoriteiten om de buurt te positioneren<br />

als meer dan de thuisbasis van de iconische, knaloranje<br />

Staten Island Ferry, blijft de reden om hier te komen…<br />

de ferry, die je gratis kan nemen in Lower Manhattan.<br />

42 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

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GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY


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46<br />

Designer Raf Simons has ended his six-year tenure at Jil Sander to take up the hot seat at Dior after the<br />

controversial departure of John Galliano. As the world awaits the most hotly anticipated fashion<br />

collection of the year, Eva Arrighi looks at the trajectory of the talented Belgian’s career<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

O<br />

n 9 April this year, the intense year-long speculation over which designer<br />

would take over the helm at Dior, after the ignominious dismissal of creative<br />

director John Galliano, finally ended.<br />

“It is with tremendous excitement that the House of Dior is welcoming Raf Simons,<br />

one of today’s greatest talents,” read a statement from LVMH. “Monsieur Dior’s first<br />

collection radically changed the codes of elegance all over the world. Following the<br />

legacy of its founder, Raf Simons’ journey with the House of Dior will propel its iconic<br />

style into the 21st century.”<br />

The appointment of Belgian Raf Simons, 44, who will present his first couture<br />

collection for Dior in July, could mark a turn away from the flamboyance and<br />

theatricality that reigned at the house under Galliano’s creative direction. Although,<br />

in an interview with Women’s Wear Daily, Simons countered claims that he’d be<br />

bringing a strict sense of minimalism to the house, as exemplified by his acclaimed<br />

work at Jil Sander, the label he has departed for Dior.


FASHION


FASHION<br />

Simons’ last collection for Jil Sander, A/W <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

was gorgeously feminine and a little bit retro<br />

“I don’t think it’s wrong to call me a<br />

minimalist. It’s wrong to call me a minimalist<br />

only. I am also a romantic person. I wouldn’t<br />

go to Dior if I only had minimalism in mind.<br />

I’m very aware of what the environment is<br />

about; when I am married to a house, I will<br />

fully embrace its original intention, its<br />

original heritage and meaning.”<br />

This statement may have put paid to the<br />

rumours there will be a minimalist face-off<br />

in Paris at the Spring/Summer 2013<br />

presentations come September when<br />

Simons shows his first ready-to-wear<br />

collection for Dior. Hedi Slimane – his<br />

former menswear rival – will be showing<br />

his first womenswear collection for YSL<br />

and Phoebe Philo is back with a full show<br />

for Celine after a more low-key A/W12<br />

presentation in March following the birth<br />

of her third child.<br />

Indeed, Raf Simons joins his fellow<br />

Belgian designer Kris Van Assche at Dior<br />

where he has been in charge of Dior<br />

Homme since 2007, taking over the role<br />

vacated by Hedi Slimane.<br />

Simons’ journey to the most prestigious<br />

job in fashion at Dior has been anything but<br />

straightforward. He was born in 1968 in<br />

Neerpelt, in the province of Limburg, to a<br />

I don’t think it’s<br />

wrong to call me a<br />

minimalist. It’s wrong<br />

to call me a minimalist<br />

only. I am also a<br />

romantic person<br />

soldier father and house-cleaner mother.<br />

He spent his youth immersed in music<br />

culture, something that remains an integral<br />

part of his work, particularly in his<br />

menswear collections where he cites<br />

Plastikman, Kraftwerk, Joy Division, David<br />

Bowie and the artwork by Peter Saville for<br />

Factory Records as pivotal influences.<br />

Moving to Genk, he graduated with a<br />

degree in industrial and furniture design<br />

in 1991. While interning with Walter Van<br />

Beirendonck, one of the Antwerp Six, he<br />

attended his first fashion show – Maison<br />

Margiela’s all-white collection – and was<br />

increasingly drawn towards the work of<br />

Martin Margiela and Helmut Lang.<br />

Encouraged by Linda Loppa, then head<br />

of fashion at the Antwerp Royal Academy,<br />

in 1995 he embarked upon a career in<br />

menswear showing initially in Milan then<br />

in Paris.<br />

His collections, described by Hamish<br />

Bowles of American Vogue as “reimagined<br />

menswear, changing the fashionable male<br />

paradigm to embrace a skinny pubescent<br />

line and a strong early 1980s electro music<br />

aesthetic”, were also remarkable for their<br />

street casting and inventive avant-garde<br />

staging. The New York Times describes him<br />

as “probably the most influential menswear<br />

designer of the last decade”.<br />

Along with fellow Belgian designer<br />

Veronique Branquinho he designed the<br />

S/S and A/W 1999 collections for Ruffo<br />

Research, the Italian luxury leather label. A<br />

decade into his career he was named as<br />

the creative director of both the Jil Sander<br />

womenswear and menswear divisions.<br />

Although this was to be his first foray<br />

into womenswear design, his first<br />

collections for A/W 2006 were a critical<br />

and commercial success, embodying the<br />

core values of the brand – minimalism and<br />

luxurious use of fabric, namely doublefaced<br />

cashmere, crisp white shirts and<br />

modern, austere tailoring.<br />

Simons brought stability to the troubled<br />

house of Sander which has seen its<br />

eponymous designer leave twice due<br />

48 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

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GETTY IMAGES; PRESS ASSOCIATION IMAGES<br />

Seven Belgian labels to watch<br />

a.KNACKFUSS »<br />

German, but based in Brussels, Alice<br />

Knackfuss’s latest collection is inspired by<br />

Japanese paper cranes and samurai armour<br />

and employs contrasting fabrics such as<br />

flannel and draped drap silk on a succession of<br />

timeless pi pieces. She has previously<br />

worked in Belgium with Simon-<br />

Pierre Toussaint To and at Diesel.<br />

Peter Pilotto Pi<br />

This label la comprises Peter Pilotto<br />

who wh is half-Austrian-half-Italian<br />

and an Christopher De Vos who is<br />

half ha Belgian-half Peruvian. The<br />

designer’s des designers met while<br />

stu studying at Antwerp’s Royal<br />

Aca Academy of Fine Arts in 2000. Now based and showing in<br />

London, Lon they have become renowned for their exquisite<br />

futuristic fut prints.<br />

« Haider H Ackermann<br />

No Not strictly Belgian – he was born in Colombia to French<br />

pare parents – but Antwerp trained and oh, how it shows, mostly in<br />

his<br />

monochrome palette, his emphasis on elegant<br />

deco deconstructed urbanism and a lean silhouette. Former intern<br />

with<br />

Galliano; the man Karl<br />

Lage Lagerfield said he would like<br />

to suc succeed him at Chanel;<br />

favour favourite of Tilda Swinton,<br />

Penelo Penelope Cruz and Lady Gaga.<br />

OMSK<br />

»<br />

Founded Founde in 2011 by Valeria<br />

Siniou Siniouchkina and Philippe<br />

Koeune Koeun from the Cambre Art<br />

and AArchitecture<br />

Schools in<br />

Brussels Bruss respectively, OMSK<br />

promotes promo a sense of urban<br />

elegance l with a twist. Playful and<br />

creative, this is Belgian/Russian fusion<br />

at its best.<br />

Olivier Theyskens<br />

Brussels-born and now at Theory.<br />

Theyskens, at only 35, has already<br />

designed at Rochas and Nina Ricci.<br />

Madonna wore a typically gothic<br />

Theyskens design to the 1998 Academy Awards and Nicole Kidman, Kirsten<br />

Dunst and Jennifer Lopez have also worn the designer’s collections.<br />

WOLF. WOL WOLF. F by y Sofie Claes<br />

Origin Originally g ally from Genk, Claes studied design and<br />

styling<br />

at Esmod Paris and at the Amsterdam Fashion<br />

Instit Institute. She currently runs her minimalist atelier<br />

in An Antwerp, describing her favourite era in fashion<br />

as tthe<br />

1940s: “I like the sobriety and simplicity<br />

of cclothing<br />

during war. It was a silent period<br />

in fa fashion. Uniforms and tailoring are my<br />

mai main inspirations.”<br />

« Kris K Van Assche<br />

After Afte graduation from the Antwerp Royal Academy<br />

of Fine F Arts, Van Assche moved to Paris to work at<br />

Yves<br />

Saint Laurent and became the artistic director<br />

at DDior<br />

Homme in April 2007. The Belgian is<br />

renown renowned for imbuing his collections with a sense<br />

of nonch nonchalance and effortless elegance.<br />

Pendentif en or 18 kts avec perle baroque, brillants et émeraudes<br />

Depuis 1970<br />

www.jpdesaedeleer.com<br />

Tel: +32 (0)10 22 39 17<br />

Rue de la Source, 14<br />

1300 Wavre Belgium<br />

Heures d’ouvertures: du mercredi au samedi de 10h00 à 17h30


FASHION<br />

Taking a bow at the end of his last show for<br />

Jil Sander; right, Simons’ designs were popular<br />

with Hollywood royalty such as Nicole Kidman<br />

to creative differences with Patrizio Bertelli,<br />

CEO of Prada, owners of the brand until<br />

2006. But Simons also brought a sense<br />

of rejuvenation, adding dresses and<br />

eveningwear to its oeuvre to much media<br />

and industry acclaim, garnering a cerebral<br />

band of Hollywood fashion-forward fans<br />

including Tilda Swinton, Kate Bosworth,<br />

Nicole Kidman and Sarah Jessica Parker.<br />

Indeed, Simons’ last three shows for the<br />

brand in his six-year tenure could almost<br />

have acted as auditions for the new role he<br />

is about to play at Dior. They included more<br />

feminine shapes and a startlingly assured<br />

use of strong and delicate, sometimes<br />

unexpected colour palettes, based on midcentury<br />

modern couture, giving, perhaps,<br />

the strongest hint yet at the direction he<br />

will pursue in Paris.<br />

“For me the strongest impact is the first<br />

10 years of Dior and how to link that to the<br />

21st century. I find it very challenging to<br />

rethink couture,” he says.<br />

Raf Simons shares, as did Monsieur<br />

Dior, a passion for art, acting as curator<br />

of exhibitions at Chicago’s Museum of<br />

Contemporary Art and Transmission – a<br />

multi-discipline art project including new<br />

work by choreographer Michael Clark in<br />

Berlin. His private collection includes work<br />

by Stephen Gontarski, Don Brown, Dana<br />

Schutz and Daniel Sinsel.<br />

Christian Dior shunned the wishes of his<br />

family that he pursue a career in diplomat<br />

circles instead choosing to open Galerie<br />

Jacques Bonjean in 1928 selling avantgarde<br />

work of the day by Pablo Picasso,<br />

Georges Braque and Jean Cocteau, before<br />

becoming one of the epic forces in fashion<br />

and founding the House of Dior in 1947.<br />

Rather than the volte-face that Simons’<br />

appointment might initially seem after<br />

Galliano’s tenure at Dior, it may represent<br />

a circular dialogue with the founding of the<br />

house, underscoring his intelligent,<br />

questioning sense of design and keen<br />

interest in history but without any desire<br />

to slavishly ape its references.<br />

Simons’ unassuming nature and Belgian<br />

sense of pragmatism will serve him well as<br />

the eyes of the fashion world turn to Paris<br />

in July for his highly anticipated debut<br />

collection for Dior Couture.<br />

FR<br />

Un Belge chez Dior<br />

Après six années sous contrat chez Jil Sander,<br />

Raf Simons a pris la succession de John Galliano<br />

chez Dior, après son départ controversé. Eva Arrighi<br />

retrace la trajectoire de ce jeune styliste belge<br />

de talent<br />

« C’est avec enthousiasme que la Maison Dior accueille<br />

Raf Simons, l’un des plus grands talents actuels, » lit-on<br />

dans un communiqué de LVMH du 9 avril. « Sur les<br />

traces de son fondateur, Raf Simons va propulser la<br />

Maison dans le 21e siècle. »<br />

L’entrée du belge Raf Simons, 44 ans, chez Dior,<br />

pourrait marquer une rupture face au côté fl amboyant<br />

et théâtral de John Galliano. Simons a toutefois réfuté<br />

l’argument selon lequel il apporterait un minimalisme<br />

strict à la Maison, comme chez Jil Sander.<br />

« Je suis un romantique. Je n’irais pas chez Dior avec<br />

une approche minimaliste. Je respecterai l’esprit<br />

d’origine de la collection. »<br />

Simons est né en 1968 à Neerpelt dans la province<br />

du Limbourg. Sa jeunesse fut imprégnée de culture<br />

musicale, ce qui reste d’ailleurs une partie intégrante<br />

de son travail.<br />

En 1991, il est diplômé en design industriel et<br />

mobilier. Bien qu’il fasse un stage auprès de Walter<br />

Van Beirendonck, l’un des Six d’Anvers, il se rapproche<br />

de l’univers de Martin Margiela et d’Helmut Lang. En<br />

1995, il se lance dans la mode masculine, d’abord à<br />

Milan, puis à Paris.<br />

Inventives et d’avant-garde, ses collections se<br />

démarquent par leur look « casting de rue ».<br />

Simons a insuffl é une nouvelle jeunesse à la Maison<br />

Sander, avec des robes et des tenues de soirée très<br />

appréciées du gratin des médias et de l’industrie.<br />

Parmi ses fans d’Hollywood, on recense Tilda Swinton,<br />

Nicole Kidman et Sarah Jessica Parker.<br />

Au lieu de voir l’arrivée de Simons chez Dior comme<br />

un volte-face après Galliano, on pourrait plutôt la<br />

représenter comme un dialogue continu avec la Maison<br />

fondatrice, questionnant avec intelligence le sens du<br />

design et sa place dans l’histoire, sans pour autant être<br />

inféodé aux références du passé.<br />

NL<br />

Een Belg bij Dior<br />

Raf Simons zette zijn 6-jarige samenwerking<br />

met Jil Sander stop en nam de felbegeerde plaats in<br />

bij Dior van John Galliano, na diens vertrek.<br />

Eva Arrighi overloopt het loopbaantraject van de<br />

getalenteerde Belgische ontwerper<br />

“Het modehuis Dior is bijzonder verheugd met de<br />

komst van Raf Simons, een van de grootste talenten<br />

van vandaag, staat te lezen in een verklaring van LVMH<br />

van 9 april.”<br />

De aanstelling van de 44-jarige Belg Raf Simons kan<br />

een stap zijn, weg van het fl amboyante en theatrale dat<br />

zegevierde onder de artistieke leiding van John Galliano.<br />

Simons weerlegde beweringen dat hij uitsluitend<br />

minimalisme zal brengen binnen het modehuis, zoals bij<br />

zijn werk voor Jil Sander.<br />

“Ik ben romantisch. Ik zou niet naar Dior gaan<br />

mocht ik enkel aan minimalisme denken. Ik zal het<br />

oorspronkelijke gedachtengoed en de betekenis<br />

ervan omarmen.”<br />

Simons werd geboren in 1968 in Neerpelt, in de<br />

provincie Limburg. Hij bracht zijn jeugd door met muziek,<br />

iets wat integraal deel uit blijft maken van zijn werk.<br />

Na zijn verhuis naar Genk behaalde hij in 1991<br />

een diploma in industrieel- en meubeldesign.<br />

Tijdens zijn stage bij Walter Van Beirendonck, een van<br />

de Antwerp Six, werd hij steeds meer aangetrokken<br />

door het werk van Martin Margiela en Helmut Lang.<br />

Zijn collecties vielen op door hun streetcasting en<br />

inventieve avant-garde staging.<br />

Simons zorgde voor verjonging in modehuis<br />

Sander met het toevoegen van jurken en avondkleding.<br />

Met alle media- en industrieaandacht en fans als<br />

Tilda Swinton, Nicole Kidman en Sarah Jessica Parker<br />

tot gevolg.<br />

50 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO brussels from 50 european destinations. brusselsairlines.com<br />

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© Maasmechelen Village <strong>2012</strong> 04/12


LOOK,<br />

SKYWALKER<br />

Jenny Clover ventures 50 metres above the forest floor on a specially constructed jungle<br />

walkway for a breathtaking view of Rwanda’s Nyungwe National Park, home to a vast<br />

array of unique bird, mammal and plant species


L<br />

ike something from a scene from<br />

Jurassic Park, perched high in the<br />

treetops of Rwanda’s Nyungwe<br />

rainforest, is a magical, mid-air walkway<br />

surrounded by a jungleful of exotic birds and<br />

monkeys that call to each other through the<br />

dripping leaves.<br />

Around 50 metres above ground-level,<br />

the Canopy Walk offers trekkers with strong<br />

stomachs and a love of heights a chance to see<br />

the rainforest from the point of view of its upperstorey<br />

inhabitants.<br />

Certainly, stepping on to the Canopy Walk isn’t<br />

for the fainthearted. A narrow bridge suspended<br />

from each side of the valley with cables, it sways<br />

gently in the breeze. But once you’ve adapted<br />

your centre of gravity and dragged your gaze<br />

up from your feet, the view is breathtaking.<br />

Beautiful, lush, undulating hills stretch as far as<br />

the eye can see, covered by a soft blanket of<br />

rolling mist. Exotic birds perch on branches<br />

looking at you quizzically and, if you’re lucky, you<br />

might even glimpse a monkey swinging through<br />

the treetops.<br />

It’s a strangely serene experience standing<br />

where humans rarely get a chance to venture,<br />

and the desire to holler out across the valley like<br />

Tarzan is quite overwhelming. As is the fantasy<br />

to swing on a trailing vine while doing so. This<br />

unique vantage point is made all the more special<br />

by the soft sounds of the rainforest far below and<br />

a cool breeze stirring the air.<br />

The walkway itself is around 150 metres long,<br />

divided in half by a solid viewing platform for<br />

those who need a break to gather their courage<br />

or take photographs. The hike to reach it takes<br />

around an hour from the park’s Uwinka Visitor<br />

Centre, where trekkers meet their park guide and<br />

pay the entrance fees. The hike continues on<br />

past the Canopy Walk for another hour or so<br />

before winding its way back to the starting point.<br />

Happily, the trek into the forest is all downhill,<br />

but be prepared for a steep climb back up to<br />

Uwinka. A supply of water and a waterproof<br />

jacket are wise additions to a backpack.<br />

Nyungwe was designated a national park by<br />

the government in 2005 to protect the unique<br />

animal and plant species that thrive there. The<br />

Canopy Walk, the first of its kind in East Africa<br />

and only the third in Africa after South Africa and<br />

Ghana, opened in late 2010. The launch of this<br />

jungle walkway is part of a concerted effort by<br />

Rwanda’s tourist board to encourage tourists<br />

AFRICA


AFRICA<br />

who come to see the gorillas to stay longer<br />

and sample some of Rwanda’s other<br />

attractions.<br />

The park is located in the furthest corner<br />

of south-west Rwanda, about a six-hour<br />

drive from the capital, Kigali. Africa’s<br />

largest protected mountain rainforest, it<br />

claims impressive biodiversity credentials:<br />

310 bird species, 26 of which are endemic<br />

to Nyungwe; 13 species of primate<br />

including chimpanzees and baboons; 1,068<br />

recorded plant species; 148 types of<br />

orchids and 200 different tree species.<br />

The Canopy Walk is one of more than a<br />

dozen hikes that can be taken around the<br />

rainforest starting at Uwinka, including<br />

specialist bird and monkey excursions, a<br />

waterfall trek and the 10-day Congo-Nile<br />

trail. Hikes vary in cost depending on the<br />

type, but prices start at €31 for a general<br />

hike and €47 for the canopy walk.<br />

For those who find trekking through the<br />

jungle too much like hard work, the nearby<br />

Nyungwe Forest Lodge, the area’s only<br />

five-star retreat, is a more relaxing option.<br />

Above: The fi ve-star Nyungwe Forest Lodge; Below:<br />

what the forest canopy looks like from beneath<br />

Located just outside the rainforest, the eco<br />

lodge has a striking view overlooking a<br />

working tea plantation and the outer edges<br />

of the jungle.<br />

You can watch the tea-pickers at work<br />

while enjoying a pot yourself, or walk<br />

around the lush grounds on the look out<br />

for monkeys. Built to blend in with its<br />

environment, the lodge offers luxury<br />

accommodation with all the trappings –<br />

heated outdoor infinity pool, treatment<br />

rooms and jacuzzi – in one of East Africa’s<br />

most dramatic locations.<br />

While Rwanda will always be best known<br />

for its gorillas and volcanoes, Nyungwe is<br />

a welcome addition to the tourist trail and<br />

a stroll along the Canopy Walk provides a<br />

thrilling viewpoint and an experience that<br />

undoubtedly leaves you on a bit of a high.<br />

For hike details visit rwandatourism.com;<br />

rooms at the five-star Nyungwe Forest Lodge<br />

from €172 per person, nyungweforestlodge.com<br />

FR<br />

De branche en branche<br />

Jenny Clover s’aventure sur la canopée au<br />

cœur de la jungle rwandaise, dans la forêt<br />

de Nyungwe<br />

A l’instar d’une scène de Jurassic Park, haut perchée<br />

au sommet des arbres de la forêt de Nyungwe, au<br />

Rwanda, se trouve une passerelle suspendue entourée<br />

d’une kyrielle d’oiseaux exotiques et de singes qui<br />

s’apostrophent à travers le feuillage.<br />

A près de 50 mètres au dessus du sol, le couvert<br />

végétal offre aux randonneurs qui n’ont pas le vertige, la<br />

chance de voir la forêt depuis les étages supérieurs.<br />

Longue de 150 mètres, la passerelle contient en son<br />

milieu une plateforme d’où l’on peut prendre des<br />

photos. Pour rejoindre la canopée, il faut compter<br />

environ une heure de marche du Centre des Visiteurs du<br />

parc d’Uwinka, le lieu de ralliement.<br />

Située dans le coin le plus reculé du sud-ouest du<br />

Rwanda, la forêt se trouve à quelque six heures de route<br />

de la capitale Kigali. Une des plus grandes forêts<br />

tropicales de montagne protégées d’Afrique, elle héberge<br />

une impressionnante biodiversité : 310 espèces d’oiseaux,<br />

dont 26 endémiques de Nyungwe, 13 groupes de primates<br />

dont des chimpanzés, 1.068 variétés de plantes, 148<br />

types d’orchidées et 200 espèces différentes d’arbres.<br />

Si vous estimez qu’un trekking à travers la jungle est<br />

trop exigeant, l’éco-lodge de la Forêt de Nyungwe, à<br />

proximité, est une option plus relaxante. De cette unique<br />

retraite cinq étoiles de l’endroit, campée aux abords de<br />

la forêt, vous bénéfi cierez de vues surprenantes sur une<br />

plantation de thé et la jungle environnante.<br />

Vous y verrez des cueilleurs de thé à l’œuvre tout en<br />

savourant votre propre tasse. Ou encore promenez-vous<br />

dans les paysages luxuriants à la recherche des singes.<br />

Bâti pour se fondre dans son environnement, le lodge<br />

offre un confort luxueux avec piscine chauffée et jacuzzi.<br />

Même si le Rwanda sera toujours réputé pour ses<br />

gorilles et ses volcans, Nyungwe vient s’ajouter au circuit<br />

touristique comme une nouvelle destination de choix.<br />

rwandatourism.com; yungweforestlodge.com<br />

NL Boomextensie<br />

Jenny Clover ervaart een magische tocht<br />

doorheen het bladerdak over een loopbrug in het<br />

Rwandese Nyungwe regenwoud<br />

Hoog in de boomtoppen van het Rwandese Nyungwe<br />

regenwoud hangt een magische loopbrug te midden van<br />

exotische vogels en apen.<br />

De loopbrug hangt op zo’n 50 meter hoogte en biedt<br />

wandelaars de kans het regenwoud te evenaren zoals zijn<br />

hoogste bewoners.<br />

De loopbrug is in twee verdeeld door een stevig<br />

uitkijkplatform. De wandeling naar de brug vanuit het<br />

Uwinka Bezoekerscentrum, waar wandelaars afspreken<br />

met hun gids, neemt zo’n uurtje in beslag.<br />

Het woud bevindt zich in de uiterste uithoek van<br />

Zuidwest Rwanda, op zo’n 6 uur rijden van de hoofdstad<br />

Kigali. Het is Afrika’s grootste beschermde<br />

bergregenwoud en beschikt over een impressionante<br />

biodiversiteit: 310 vogelsoorten, waarvan 26 inheemse<br />

van Nyungwe, 13 primatensoorten, 1.068 opgetekende<br />

platensoorten, 148 soorten orchideeën en 200<br />

verschillende boomsoorten.<br />

Wie een junglewandeling te zwaar vindt en op zoek is<br />

naar iets kalmer, kan terecht in de nabijgelegen Nyungwe<br />

Forest Lodge, het vijfsterrenoord van de streek. Deze eco<br />

lodge is net buiten het woud gelegen en biedt een<br />

verbluffend uitzicht over de theeplantage en de uiterste<br />

grenzen van het regenwoud.<br />

Hier ziet u de theeplukkers aan het werk, terwijl uzelf<br />

nipt van een potje thee of wandelt doorheen het<br />

weelderige oord, op zoek naar apen.<br />

De lodge werd gebouwd met het oog op integratie in<br />

het landschap en biedt luxueuze accommodatie.<br />

Hoewel Rwanda voor altijd bekend zal staan om zijn<br />

gorilla’s en vulkanen, is Nyungwe een welkom extraatje<br />

voor toeristen dat de moeite loont tijd voor uit te trekken.<br />

rwandatourism.com; nyungweforestlodge.com<br />

54 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO kigali five times weekly. brusselsairlines.com


56<br />

The Basques are so proud of their fine local tuna, they land it and conserve it in pretty<br />

coloured retro tins so we can all enjoy it at home. Joe Warwick visits the Ortiz canning<br />

factory near Bilbao and enjoys a few pintxos in this little-known foodie paradise<br />

N<br />

orthern Spain produces the best preserved seafood<br />

in the world. Here, it is seen as something to be<br />

savoured, a carefully graded delicacy that’s worth<br />

paying serious money for. Compare that with the prevailing<br />

attitude in United States and the UK, two countries I divided<br />

my formative years between, and, coincidentally, the firstand<br />

second-biggest consumers of canned tuna in the world.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

I was brought up with the idea that fish in a can was a cheap<br />

store-cupboard staple, an emergency ration, sometimes<br />

mixed with sweetcorn and mayonnaise and put in a<br />

sandwich. Back then the idea that a can of fish could be an<br />

object of gastronomic desire had never occurred to me.<br />

“You could say that the reason why tinned seafood has<br />

such a bad image in places like the US and the UK, is that<br />

MEGAN EAGLES


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EMAIL INFO@FUERADENTRO.COM<br />

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they don’t put anything good in the tin in<br />

the first place,” says Monika Linton, whose<br />

company Brindisa specialises in importing<br />

Spanish food into the UK.<br />

“There’s this misguided idea that fresh is<br />

always best. But if you harvest anything in<br />

season, catching fish at its very best and<br />

preserving it the right way, you will have it<br />

to enjoy throughout the year. When it<br />

comes to something like sardines, the<br />

flavour actually improves in the tin.”<br />

The scales, so to speak, were first lifted<br />

from my eyes on a trip to Barcelona six<br />

years ago to visit a tapas bar called<br />

Inopia, then run by Albert Adria, younger<br />

brother of Ferran of el Bulli fame. On<br />

Inopia’s shelves there were various<br />

colourful cans of seafood, beautifully<br />

branded and priced upwards of most of<br />

the fresh fish on the menu.<br />

This year I was given the chance to visit<br />

the home of, arguably, the most famous of<br />

the colourful brands that caught my eye<br />

that day back in Barcelona – Ortiz – to<br />

better understand what goes into those<br />

distinctive yellow, red and blue cans.<br />

Ortiz, or Ortiz Conservas to give it its full<br />

name, was founded back in 1891 and today<br />

is run by the fifth generation of the same<br />

family. The distinctive design with the<br />

fishing boat on the cans remains, by and<br />

large, unchanged since it first appeared<br />

back in the 1930s.<br />

FLY TO bilbao twice daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

Clockwise from above left: Trimming the famous<br />

anchovies at the Ortiz factory; tuna being line-caught<br />

in the Cantabrian Sea; packed in ice, ready for canning<br />

It’s no coincidence that Ortiz is based on<br />

the north coast of Spain in the Basque<br />

country. The Cantabrian Sea, the name<br />

given to the southern end of Bay of Biscay<br />

that extends along the coast of the Basque<br />

region, is a rich source of fish, the very best<br />

tuna and, in particular, anchovies, on which<br />

the business was originally built.<br />

The Italians had long prized the<br />

anchovies from the Cantabrian – better<br />

than their own Mediterranean variety, by<br />

virtue of the colder, rougher waters. When e<br />

they first arrived in the e area in the late 19th<br />

century they brought ught with them the<br />

technique, still used ed by Ortiz<br />

today, of layering the he fish in<br />

barrels with salt to cure<br />

them. Ortiz’s anchovies vies<br />

are still filleted by hand, and,<br />

with the average<br />

eat bilbao<br />

BILBAO<br />

Don’t call it tapas<br />

While San Sebastian tends<br />

to get all the attention for its<br />

pintxo bars (what the Basques<br />

call tapas), Bilbao can more<br />

than hold its own when it comes<br />

to a ‘txikiteo’ (what the Basques<br />

call a bar crawl). The cardinal<br />

rule, as elsewhere in Spain, is<br />

‘never drink without eating,<br />

never eat without drinking.’ As<br />

an excellent starting point the<br />

Bilbao council’s website has,<br />

under its Eat in Bilbao section,<br />

a comprehensive selection of<br />

recommended pintxo bars<br />

grouped under classic, modern<br />

and avant-garde to denote the<br />

style of the dishes on offer.<br />

bilbao.net<br />

Cider house rules<br />

No one should leave the Basque<br />

country without experiencing<br />

the atmosphere of a traditional<br />

cider house, typically country<br />

affairs with the best examples<br />

out in the sticks. Arriaga does a<br />

good job of bringing to the city<br />

the rustic charms of simply<br />

charred hunks of marbled beef,<br />

fish and salt cod omelettes<br />

combined with sampling (al<br />

txotx) cider, drawn by yourself<br />

straight from huge barrels.<br />

Arriaga, Santa María St 13,<br />

48005, Bilbao +34 944 165<br />

670, asadorarriaga.com<br />

Museum piece<br />

Naturally no visit to Bilbao is<br />

complete without a tour around<br />

the Guggenheim musuem.<br />

Assuming you want to do it<br />

in style and you like your<br />

restaurants haute and<br />

proffering elaborate tasting<br />

menus, there’s no better place<br />

to start – or finish – your visit<br />

to the gallery than at Nerua.<br />

Chef Josean Martínez Alija’s<br />

stylish, appropriately modern,<br />

dining room is located within<br />

Frank Gehry’s iconic building.<br />

Nerua, Avda Abandoibarra 2,<br />

48001, Bilbao + 34 944 000<br />

430, nerua.com<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 59


BILBAO<br />

One of Ortiz’s local fi shing boats used for catching<br />

the fi nest white tuna, all of which is line caught<br />

worker, amazingly, filleting over 3,000 of<br />

the tiny fish in a day.<br />

The only break with tradition came<br />

following the recent five-year ban on<br />

anchovy fishing in the Cantabrian Sea to<br />

allow stocks to recover, during which time<br />

Mediterranean fish was used. When the<br />

ban was lifted in 2010 they returned to the<br />

firmer, superior flesh of anchovies from the<br />

Cantabrian coastline.<br />

Ortiz has long since expanded into other<br />

preserved fish, including mackerel and<br />

sardines, but its star is white tuna or Bonito<br />

del Norte. Only fish caught with live bait<br />

during the coastal season make the cut. It’s<br />

religiously graded, the best of which is used<br />

in their Gama Roja range.<br />

Ortiz’s four factories now specialise in<br />

different products with San Vicente de la<br />

Barquera in Cantabria and Lekeitio in<br />

Vizcaya producing anchovies, Zumala<br />

(Gipuzkoa) brine-preserved tuna and<br />

mackerel, and Ondarroa (Vizcaya) focusing<br />

on top-of-the-line tuna preserved in olive oil.<br />

You can visit the latter two factories,<br />

which grant pre-booked tours to members<br />

of the public and have shops with the full<br />

Ortiz range.<br />

When I visited the 120-year old factory<br />

at Ondarroa, I was surprised at just how<br />

labour intensive and old-fashioned it<br />

remained. I watched as the belly tuna<br />

produced that day was tightly packed by<br />

hand into glass jars. The finest, tastiest and<br />

most expensive cut of the fish preserved<br />

at its peak in fine Spanish olive oil, would<br />

soon be on its way to be consumed by<br />

someone, somewhere, in the world who<br />

knew its worth.<br />

To enquire about a factory tour, contact<br />

Ortiz at least a day in advance: +34 943 862<br />

600 or informacion@ortiz.es; conservasortiz.<br />

com; brindisa.com<br />

60 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO bilbao twice daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

FR<br />

En direct du bateau<br />

Par Joe Warwick<br />

L’Espagne produit les meilleures conserves de<br />

poisson dans le monde. Les Espagnols les considèrent<br />

comme des mets savoureux, une délicatesse pour<br />

laquelle ils sont prêts à payer le prix.<br />

J’ai été élevé dans l’idée que le poisson en boîte était<br />

un aliment basique bon marché, souvent consommé<br />

en sandwich avec du maïs et de la mayonnaise. Mais<br />

qu’un poisson en boîte puisse être un objet de désir<br />

gastronomique ne m’a jamais effl euré.<br />

« Il existe une fausse conception selon laquelle la<br />

fraîcheur prime avant tout, » explique Monika Linton,<br />

dont la société Brindisa est spécialisée en<br />

importation de produits alimentaires espagnols au<br />

Royaume-Uni. « Si vous pêchez à la bonne saison et<br />

préservez correctement le poisson, vous pouvez vous<br />

en régaler toute l’année. Et lorsqu’il s’agit de<br />

sardines, par exemple, même la saveur s’améliore<br />

en conserve. »<br />

Le plus célèbre producteur de poisson en conserve<br />

est Ortiz – Ortiz Conservas de son nom complet.<br />

Fondée en 1891, la société est gérée aujourd’hui par<br />

la cinquième génération de la même famille. Le<br />

design distinctif des produits, représentant un<br />

bateau de pêche sur l’emballage, n’a pas changé<br />

depuis leur lancement dans les années 30.<br />

Ce n’est pas un hasard si Ortiz est installé sur la<br />

côte nord espagnole, dans le pays Basque. La mer<br />

Cantabrique, le nom donné à la baie de Biscaye le<br />

long de la côte basque, est riche en poissons. Ici le<br />

thon abonde tout comme les anchois, les produits<br />

d’excellence à l’origine de l’entreprise.<br />

Depuis lors la gamme d’Ortiz s’est étendue avec<br />

des maquereaux et des sardines, mais leur denrée<br />

star reste le thon blanc ou Bonito del Norte. Seuls les<br />

poissons capturés avec des appâts vivants durant la<br />

saison de la pêche sont sélectionnés pour la coupe.<br />

Si vous êtes intéressé par un tour des usines,<br />

contactez Ortiz au moins un jour en avance : +34<br />

943 862600 ou informacion@ortiz.es ;<br />

conservasortiz.com ; brindisa.com<br />

NL<br />

Vers van de boot<br />

Door Joe Warwick<br />

Spanje produceert ‘s wereld best bewaarde vis. De<br />

Spanjaarden beschouwen het als iets waar veel geld<br />

kan voor worden neergeteld.<br />

Ik werd opgevoed met het idee dat vis in blik<br />

een goedkoop alternatief was uit de supermarkt<br />

en in noodgevallen tussen een boterham terecht<br />

kwam. Het idee dat ingeblikte vis gastronomische<br />

geneugten kon teweegbrengen kwam nooit bij me op.<br />

“Vers is altijd het beste is een misvatting”, aldus<br />

Monika Linton. Zij werkt voor Brindisa, een bedrijf<br />

gespecialiseerd in de import van Spaanse voeding<br />

in het Verenigd Koninkrijk. “Als je de vis op tijd, op<br />

zijn beste vangt en op de juiste manier bewaart, kan<br />

je er het hele jaar door van genieten. Bij sardienen<br />

verbetert de smaak zelfs eenmaal ingeblikt.”<br />

De beroemdste aanbieder van ingeblikte vis is<br />

Ortiz, waarvan de producten worden verkocht in<br />

herkenbare gele, rode en blauwe blikken. Ortiz<br />

Conservas werd opgericht in 1891 en wordt vandaag<br />

geleid door de 5de generatie van de familie.<br />

Het is geen toeval dat het bedrijf is gevestigd<br />

aan de Spaanse noordkust, in het Baskenland. De<br />

Cantabrische zee is rijk aan vis, zoals heerlijke tonijn<br />

en ansjovis, de oorspronkelijke pijler van het bedrijf.<br />

Ortiz heeft sindsdien zijn business uitgebreid<br />

naar andere visconserven, waaronder makreel en<br />

sardienen, maar zijn sterproduct is witte tonijn of<br />

Bonito del Norte.<br />

Contacteer Ortiz voor een bedrijfsbezoek:<br />

+34 943 862600 of informacion@ortiz.es;<br />

conservasortiz.com; brindisa.com


FRANCE


GETTY IMAGES<br />

theBusiness<br />

Boyd Farrow rounds up the latest in the business world across Europe<br />

Tyson helps Polish drinks<br />

company pack a punch<br />

In 2004 FoodCare, a company near Krakow, launched Tiger<br />

Energy Drink with Dariusz “Tiger” Michalczewski, a much-loved<br />

ex-boxer who licensed his nickname in return for a cut of the<br />

profits going to his charity.<br />

Although the drink became hugely popular, a row over a spinoff<br />

Tiger Black Energy Drink in 2010 saw Michaelczewski taking<br />

the Tiger name to a rival firm and FoodCare developing Black<br />

Energy Drink. Now Foodcare is relaunching this product, simply<br />

just called Black, with a huge marketing campaign in an attempt<br />

to make it the best-selling energy drink in Europe. And the new<br />

face? Step up Mike Tyson, who has just signed on to become the<br />

face of the campaign for three years.<br />

Tyson was the youngest man ever to win the world heavyweight<br />

boxing championship at the age of just 20. However, despite<br />

becoming undisputed champion a year later in 1987, the majority<br />

of the Brooklyn-born boxer’s career was marred by spells in prison<br />

and disqualifications in the ring further tarnished his reputation. tion.<br />

Tyson will certainly make an upbeat ambassador for Black ck<br />

though. When asked by journalists in Warsaw what he would d<br />

have done differently if he had his time again, he said: “There re is<br />

nothing in my life I would erase – I would not change anything, ng,<br />

even if I could.” Tiger may have been able to, but, it seems a<br />

leopard cannot change its spots.<br />

Italy wins chocolate battle<br />

Brussels has decided to let Italy continue selling chocolate labelled<br />

as ‘pure chocolate’. In 2010 the European Court of Justice<br />

condemned Italy for using ‘pure chocolate’ labels on products<br />

made solely from cocoa butter as they might mislead consumers.<br />

Italy has been fighting to preserve a distinction between its<br />

chocolate products and those from other European countries<br />

which use vegetable oils as well as cocoa butter. Ironically, the<br />

news emerged just as Turin-based confectionery giant Ferrero<br />

agreed to set aside $3m (€2.3m) to settle a class-action lawsuit<br />

by a Californian mother after she discovered the group’s Nutella<br />

chocolate spread had more calories than jam. Notices of class<br />

action settlements said Ferrero USA Inc. would pay up to $4 (€3)<br />

for every jar of Nutella bought in California since August 2009, or<br />

eelsewhere<br />

in the US since January 2008.<br />

It also agreed to “modify certain marketing<br />

statements sta about Nutella”. Two years ago, Ferrero<br />

led It Italy’s charge against Brussels when it complained<br />

abo about stricter labelling on confectionery. Ferrero is<br />

on one of Italy’s most successful family companies,<br />

an and reported pre-tax earnings of €856m (€665m)<br />

fo for year ending August 2011.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 63


64<br />

theBusiness<br />

Industrial espionage on<br />

the rise in Germany<br />

Nearly half of all German companies have been victims of<br />

industrial spies, according to a study by Munich security<br />

specialist Corporate Trust, with one in five having lost information<br />

directly to competitors. The study, involving around 600<br />

companies, found that medium-sized German firms – considered<br />

the country’s innovative backbone – were most badly affected,<br />

enduring 23.5% of the attacks. The country’s major corporations<br />

experienced 18.5% of all espionage attempts, while small<br />

companies were the victims of 15.6% of them.<br />

The report said that attacks came from many places including<br />

China, the former Soviet countries and the US. The latter,<br />

apparently, “kept itself well in the picture with the help of special<br />

listening devices”. Corporate Trust claims that corporate<br />

espionage would cost Germany €4.2bn this year.<br />

Employees are a large security risk, with 58% of the damage<br />

inflicted traced back to a company’s own staff, the study said.<br />

Attacks from outside the office can take the form of hacking but<br />

also from competitors posing as market researchers in order to<br />

gather information.<br />

eu Alcohol marketing tightened to protect teens<br />

Eight of the world’s biggest alcoholic drinks producers have<br />

linked up to toughen up self-imposed rules on drinks marketing<br />

across the EU – with the aim of protecting young teenagers.<br />

The Responsible Marketing Pact, which includes Belgium’s AB<br />

InBev, Denmark’s Carlsberg, Britain’s Diageo and Heineken, for<br />

the first time provide a guide that’s consistent not just across so<br />

many markets, but also across beer, wine and spirits.<br />

The pact sets common standards on drinks brands’<br />

involvement in social media and user-generated content to limit<br />

young eyes falling on it, primarily by ensuring content is likely to<br />

be of interest only to over-18s.<br />

Apparently, however, it is Carlsberg employees who need<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

in<br />

digits<br />

1204<br />

The number of people<br />

waiting for a table at<br />

Noma, Copenhagen,<br />

after it was again<br />

crowned the world’s<br />

best restaurant<br />

last month<br />

58<br />

The percentage<br />

of internet users<br />

in Russia<br />

6.34%<br />

The foreign<br />

population of Italy,<br />

which has tripled in<br />

the last decade to<br />

3,769, 518 people<br />

€94m<br />

The amount architect<br />

Santiago Calatrava<br />

was paid for Valencia’s<br />

famed City of Arts &<br />

Sciences in the early<br />

1990s, according to<br />

documents released<br />

last month<br />

Gambling habit<br />

growing in Italy<br />

Gambling is Italy’s third-largest industry, according<br />

to a new report. A study by Italian social service<br />

group CeIS, reveals that Italy’s betting industry<br />

earned €47.5bn in revenue in 2008, €10bn behind<br />

automaker Fiat and half the revenue of energy giant<br />

Eni. The study showed that 47% of Italy’s poor and<br />

66% of the unemployed are known to gamble. It<br />

also showed that 47% of youth aged 15-24 have<br />

played video poker and slot machines. Health<br />

Minister Renato Balduzzi said last month that Italy’s<br />

growing gambling industry risks claiming half a<br />

million young addicts.<br />

Online betting, which tripled in 2011, is growing<br />

the fastest, as gamblers spent €1.5bn on the<br />

internet last year. Gambling revenue in Italy was up<br />

28.8% to €23.2bn in the first quarter of <strong>2012</strong>. It<br />

may be of no comfort to the Catholic group, but<br />

thanks to recent legislation, Italian authorities are<br />

getting tax revenues from gambling.<br />

In Italy tax evasion is an even bigger pastime than<br />

gambling, with Italian finance police recovering<br />

€6bn in unpaid taxes in the first four months of the<br />

year. “The biggest peaks in evasion were in the<br />

wholesale and retail sectors [almost 25% of the<br />

total], construction, manufacturing, housing and<br />

catering industries,” a police statement noted.<br />

protection – from the brewer. It has just come to light that last year<br />

the company was cited for 12 major safety violations in its Fredericia<br />

plant, a Danish record for the highest number of<br />

possibly dangerous conditions found in a single<br />

workplace at one time.<br />

The Fredericia shipping terminal was cited for<br />

seven violations while the brewery itself received<br />

five, mainly for plant machinery that presented a<br />

great risk of bodily harm. Denmark’s national<br />

workplace monitor, Arbejdstilsynet, said one of the<br />

most serious violations involved gas bottles that<br />

were not secured against falling over and exploding.<br />

GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY


GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY<br />

Russia’s architectural revolution<br />

Moscow’s authorities have committed to a revolutionary scheme to restore the<br />

city’s architectural heritage. Investors are to be offered a 49-year lease on<br />

buildings in poor condition and will pay market-rate rent until the restoration<br />

work on the building is complete. Once the work is complete, Moscow’s<br />

Heritage Commission will reduce the rent to a symbolic one ruble per m2 which<br />

will be in place for the remainder of the lease. Investors must complete the<br />

restoration within five years of signing the contract or face a fine. Moscow’s<br />

Heritage Commission has indicated that there are a total of 244 historical<br />

buildings in a precarious state that it would like to have renovated through this<br />

scheme, and has said they have 50 applications from potential investors.<br />

One developer, MR Group, says that restoration costs could range from<br />

€2,500 to €10,000 per m2 , depending on the building’s condition. Based on the<br />

yearly market rate, the restorations would cost the same as four to 15 years of<br />

rent. Unveiling the scheme, one of the Heritage Commission’s directors<br />

specified that all buildings are expected to look as they did in the 19th century.<br />

Universal Studios comes<br />

to Moscow<br />

According to reports in the Russian media, Universal<br />

Studios is to build its fifth amusement park – and its<br />

first in Europe – in Moscow. Masterminded by<br />

entrepreneur Sait-Salam Gutseriev, the €2.5bn Galactic Park will<br />

copy the concept of Universal Studios’ four other parks but will<br />

also include a mammoth retail/entertainment zone.<br />

The Moscow attraction will be more affordable for visitors<br />

too – tickets are expected to cost €30, less than half the<br />

Florida entry charge. Work is expected to begin in 2014.<br />

Rue Pierre Fatio 3<br />

CH-1204 Genève, Suisse<br />

t: +41 22 707 09 09 f: +41 22 707 09 10<br />

Gerbergasse 1 (Am Marktplatz)<br />

CH-4001 Basel, Schweiz<br />

t: +41 61 260 31 31 f: +41 61 260 31 39<br />

info@banquethaler.ch www.banquethaler.ch


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theBusiness<br />

Stockholm: Start-up city<br />

In the last five years, €2.6bn has been generated annually from<br />

Nordic tech companies, with more than half of this coming<br />

from Sweden alone. Barry Mansfield meets the entrepreneurs<br />

playing a starring role in Stockholm’s boom<br />

I<br />

n a nice twist for the consumer,<br />

Klarna is a service that allows its<br />

users to pay for products<br />

purchased online after they’ve been<br />

delivered. All you need to do is enter your<br />

name, date of birth and address and Klarna<br />

fronts the payment. It ploughs through<br />

huge amounts of information on user<br />

behaviour to assess whether the individual<br />

can repay: “Who’s trustworthy and who’s<br />

not,” is how Sebastian Siemiatkowski, the<br />

CEO, likes to put it. And Klarna has found a<br />

lot of reliable customers – it is available in<br />

14,000 affiliated online shops in Europe,<br />

with more than six million users so far.<br />

The company was formed in 2005 by<br />

current COO Niklas Adalberth and two<br />

friends from the Stockholm School of<br />

Economics, Siemiatkowski and Victor<br />

Jacobsson. With help from angel investor<br />

Jane Walerud, the group raised €80,000 in<br />

the first round.<br />

Klarna won over €115m in funding from<br />

General Atlantic and DST Global in its<br />

Series C round last year and is now valued<br />

at around €600 million. It is thought to<br />

have made revenues of €80 million for<br />

2011, with a profit of around €7m.<br />

According to Siemiatkowski, the confidence<br />

of Stockholm’s entrepreneurs is improving<br />

because “every company that makes it acts<br />

as a catalyst for new ideas, new start-ups<br />

and new investments. It’s a ripple effect.”<br />

The start-up now operates with 600<br />

employees in Germany, the Netherlands,<br />

Finland, Norway and Israel. Thankfully<br />

talent, Stockholm’s key commodity –<br />

mainly due to its world-class education<br />

system and history of high-tech<br />

engineering – allows the city to satisfy that<br />

high demand. Siemiatkowski says he is also<br />

grateful for mentoring he received from<br />

FLY TO stockholm four times daily brusselsairlines.com<br />

people in companies like Tradedoubler,<br />

Gymgrossisten and Pricerunner.<br />

The Swedish capital is also home to<br />

some experienced serial entrepreneurs,<br />

such as Hjalmar Winbladh, who is bestknown<br />

as the co-founder and CEO of free<br />

VoIP service Rebtel. In 1994 Winbladh<br />

co-founded Sendit, which Microsoft<br />

acquired for €100m in 1999. He’s now<br />

proving that gift cards are still in fashion<br />

after securing €4m for Wrapp in a first<br />

round of funding in November 2011.<br />

Wrapp, which lets you easily send gift<br />

cards to friends through Facebook,<br />

announced again in January this year that<br />

it had secured an additional €3.8m, led by<br />

Atomico and Greylock Partners.<br />

The funding will help Wrapp accelerate its<br />

Above: Wrapp’s Hjalmar Winbladh believes<br />

Stockholm succeeds because of “its high<br />

appreciation for the latest technology”<br />

expansion into the US and UK. The company<br />

says that in Sweden it sent over 250,000<br />

gift cards in December, with the number<br />

growing at about 30% every week. Wrapp<br />

now has 30 major retailers in Sweden alone<br />

and hundreds of smaller retailers.<br />

After angel investments in iZettle<br />

(Europe’s answer to mobile-payment<br />

company Square, iZettle last year raised<br />

€8.2m) and EpidemicSound, Wrapp is<br />

Winbladh’s fifth start-up. So why choose<br />

Stockholm as a base, again?<br />

“Because Sweden has an extremely high<br />

appreciation for the latest technology, it<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 67


68<br />

theBusiness<br />

Right: Klarna<br />

founders Niklas<br />

Adalberth, Sebastian<br />

Siemiatkowski and<br />

Victor Jacobsson<br />

has become the perfect test-market for<br />

real innovation before exposing it to the<br />

rest of the world,” he says. There is now a<br />

mature community and ecosystem of old<br />

and young entrepreneurs and VCs in<br />

Stockholm, who know one another, meet<br />

regularly, share ideas and actively<br />

encourage and fund the next generation<br />

global companies.<br />

The gaming industry is another focus for<br />

the city, and a highly lucrative market.<br />

Stockholm is the birthplace of Minecraft –<br />

probably the best-selling videogame not to<br />

have been officially released at the height<br />

of its popularity. It first appeared in May<br />

2009 as a developmental alpha; since then,<br />

it has attracted 25 million registered users<br />

and shifted five million copies, earning at<br />

least €60 million. A further €750,000 has<br />

been generated through merchandising,<br />

including clothing such as T-shirts and<br />

socks, and a partnership with Danish<br />

toymaker Lego.<br />

“We’ve been approached by a number<br />

of high-profile Hollywood producers and<br />

asked to do TV shows,” says Carl Manneh,<br />

managing director of Mojang (Swedish for<br />

‘gadget’), the holding company set up with<br />

Jakob Porsér in September 2010 with<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Minecraft revenues. Developer Markus<br />

‘Notch’ Persson is credited with dreaming<br />

up the idea, which has players building a<br />

world from cubic blocks.<br />

Mojang wants to retain the start-up vibe<br />

– “tons of fun,” according to Manneh – at<br />

its new headquarters in the south of the<br />

city; for example, it holds ‘gaming Fridays’<br />

every week, from noon onwards. An<br />

exuberant Persson is famous for handing<br />

over his €2.8m share of last December’s<br />

dividend to dumbstruck employees.<br />

Persson is thought to have received a<br />

total of about €45m in licensing revenue<br />

from Mojang, and Manneh stresses that<br />

the company will not need help from<br />

venture capitalists. He has already turned<br />

down an offer from Sean Parker, the<br />

former Facebook president and co-founder<br />

of Napster.<br />

As Wrapp’s Hjalmar Winbladh’s asserts,<br />

“Stockholm has been a world-class centre<br />

of gravity for tech start-ups for some time<br />

– it has just taken the rest of the world a bit<br />

longer to recognise what’s going on up<br />

here. I believe the tech advancements and<br />

creativity over the next 10 years in<br />

Stockholm will be truly game changing and<br />

I’m thrilled to be a part of it.”<br />

FR Stockholm : ville start-up<br />

Ces cinq dernières années, les entreprises<br />

nordiques high-tech – dont plus de la moitié<br />

suédoises – ont généré plus de 2,6 milliards d’euros<br />

annuellement. Barry Mansfi eld rencontre ces<br />

entrepreneurs majeurs<br />

Klarna permet aux consommateurs de payer des<br />

marchandises achetées en ligne après la livraison. Sur base<br />

d’informations sur le profi l de l’usager et son niveau de<br />

fi abilité, Klarna couvre le payement. Ce service est<br />

disponible aujourd’hui dans 14.000 boutiques en ligne<br />

en Europe, et il compte six millions d’utilisateurs.<br />

L’année dernière, la fi rme a levé des fonds de General<br />

Atlantic et DST Global pour plus de 115 millions d’euros,<br />

portant la valorisation de la compagnie à quelque 600<br />

millions d’euros. Selon son PDG, Sebastien<br />

Siemiatkowski, les entrepreneurs stockholmois gagnent<br />

de plus en plus la confi ance parce que « chaque société<br />

qui réussit, agit comme un catalyseur pour de nouvelles<br />

start-ups et de nouveaux investissements. »<br />

L’industrie des jeux vidéos – marché hautement lucratif<br />

– est un autre secteur de pointe à Stockholm, berceau<br />

de Minecraft. Ce best-seller lancé en mai 2009, a depuis<br />

attiré 25 millions d’utilisateurs et généré cinq millions<br />

d’exemplaires, pour une valeur d’au moins 60 millions<br />

d’euros. A cela viennent s’ajouter le merchandising et un<br />

partenariat avec le fabricant de jouets danois Lego.<br />

La capitale suédoise abrite également quelques<br />

« serial entrepreneurs », tels Hjalmar Winbladh, PDG de<br />

Rebtel, services gratuits de VoIP. En 1994, Winbladh a<br />

co-fondé Sendit, racheté par Microsoft pour 100<br />

millions d’euros en 1999. Il prouve aujourd’hui que les<br />

cartes cadeaux sont toujours en vogue, après avoir<br />

récolté 4 millions d’euros pour Wrapp lors d’une<br />

première levée de fonds en novembre 2011.<br />

Wrapp, qui permet d’envoyer facilement des cartes<br />

cadeaux à ses amis via Facebook, a annoncé en janvier<br />

de cette année avoir engrangé 3,8 millions d’euros<br />

additionnels, fi nancés par Atomico and Greylock<br />

Partners. Mais pourquoi Stockholm comme ville de<br />

lancement ? D’après Winbladh, « la Suède apprécie<br />

tellement les dernières technologies qu’elle est<br />

devenue un marché test ».<br />

NL<br />

Stockholm: stad der<br />

start-ups<br />

De voorbije 5 jaar geneerden Scandinavische<br />

technologiebedrijven jaarlijks meer dan 2,6 miljard<br />

euro, waarvan Zweden alleen meer dan de helft voor<br />

zijn rekening neemt. Barry Mansfi eld ontmoet de<br />

ondernemers met een glansrol<br />

Met Klarna kunnen gebruikers hun online aangekochte<br />

producten na levering betalen. Bij het controleren of<br />

iemand een aankoop kan terugbetalen, vond Klarna<br />

betrouwbare klanten. Momenteel telt Klarna meer dan<br />

6 miljoen gebruikers.<br />

Klarna’s waarde wordt rond de 600 miljoen euro<br />

geschat. Volgens CEO Sebastien Siemiatkowsk groeit het<br />

vertrouwen van de Stockholmse ondernemers: “Iedere<br />

succesvolle onderneming werkt als katalysator voor<br />

nieuwe start-ups en investeringen.”<br />

Gaming is een andere, lucratieve industriële kernactiviteit<br />

in Stockholm. Het populaire videospel Minecraft, met 25<br />

miljoen gebruikers en 5 miljoen verkochte exemplaren, is<br />

goed voor een opbrengst van minstens 60 miljoen euro.<br />

Daarnaast werd € 750,000 gegenereerd via<br />

merchandising en een samenwerking met Lego.<br />

Stockholm is eveneens de thuisbasis van een aantal<br />

ervaren serie-ondernemers, waaronder Hjalmar<br />

Winbladh, CEO van de gratis VoIP-dienst Rebtel. In 2004<br />

stichtte Windblah Sendit, dat in 2009 voor 10 miljoen<br />

euro werd verkocht aan Microsoft. Vandaag bewijst hij<br />

dat geschenkkaarten nog trendy zijn.<br />

Wrapp, waarmee je geschenkkaarten kan verzenden<br />

via Facebook, kondigde in januari dit jaar een bijkomende<br />

3,8 miljoen euro aan, gefi nancierd door Atomico en<br />

Greylock Partners. Dus waarom Stockholm als<br />

uitvalsbasis kiezen?<br />

“Omdat Zweden de nieuwste technologie waardeert en<br />

de perfecte testmarkt is geworden voor innovatie”.<br />

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LISBON *<br />

FARO * MALAGA*<br />

TO 50 PREMIUM EUROPEAN DESTINATIONS INCLUDING:<br />

BOLOGNA ITALY P80<br />

FARO PORTUGAL P82<br />

GENEVA SWITZERLAND P84<br />

GOTHENBURG SWEDEN P85<br />

LYON FRANCE P86<br />

* KRAKOW<br />

MOSCOW DOMODEDOVO *<br />

* VILNIUS<br />

TEL AVIV *<br />

MADRID SPAIN P87<br />

NEWCASTLE UNITED KINGDOM P88<br />

ROME ITALY P89<br />

VENICE ITALY P90<br />

VIENNA AUSTRIA P91<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 71


u blq fao gva got lys mad ncl fco vce vie<br />

brussels<br />

belgium<br />

10,431,477 +32 15°C<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

emma beddington<br />

this month sees the mind-boggling restaurant<br />

‘Dinner in the Sky’ hovering above the city<br />

ST GÉRY<br />

When the weather warms up, the<br />

streets and pavement cafés around<br />

St Gery are packed with locals and<br />

tourists enjoying the atmosphere.<br />

SLEEP Concept Hotel is a superior<br />

B&B located in a 17th-century guild<br />

house right on the Grand Place. It’s<br />

elegantly decorated, with high ceilings,<br />

antique furniture and Grand Place<br />

views. (39 Grand-Place, (0)474 03 24<br />

70, concepthotel.be, rooms from €135).<br />

SHOP Toit showcases thoughtfully<br />

curated homewares over two rickety<br />

floors. Many pieces are recycled or<br />

repurposed – like the furniture made<br />

from old, painted sash window frames<br />

(46 Rue des Chartreux, users.skynet.<br />

be/toit-bruxelles). Hunting &<br />

Collecting (17 Rue des Chartreux,<br />

huntingandcollecting.com) is Brussels’<br />

hippest fashion retailer for men and<br />

women, featuring hard-to-find brands.<br />

EAT Fin de Siècle (9 Rue des<br />

Chartreux, (0)2 513 512 3) doesn’t take<br />

reservations which means you’ll queue,<br />

but the noisy, cheerful atmosphere and<br />

fabulous value for money make it well<br />

worth the wait. Portions of Belgian<br />

staples are gigantic and around €8-€10.<br />

39,50<br />

as from per person<br />

INFO<br />

Brussels Airport is<br />

15km north-east<br />

of the city in<br />

Zaventem.<br />

Train<br />

Trains depart every<br />

15 minutes at peak<br />

times for Brussels’<br />

three main stations.<br />

The journey takes<br />

25 minutes and<br />

costs €5.40.<br />

Bus<br />

The bus station is<br />

one level below the<br />

arrivals hall. The no.<br />

12 (weekdays) and<br />

no. 21 (weekends) to<br />

the city centre<br />

depart every 30<br />

minutes; one-way<br />

tickets cost €3.<br />

Taxi<br />

The journey to the<br />

centre costs €45<br />

and takes around<br />

25 minutes.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The main offi ce<br />

is at 2 Rue Royale,<br />

(0)2 513 89 40,<br />

(visitbrussels.be).<br />

Spectacular views with<br />

Dinner in the Sky<br />

Dinner in the Sky (dinnerinthesky.be)<br />

arrives this month as part of the<br />

Brusselicious food festival, moving<br />

from the Cinquantenaire Arch, to the<br />

Atomium, to the Bois de la Cambre with<br />

seven Michelin starred chefs alternating<br />

at the high-altitude helm.<br />

CULTURE Ancienne Belgique is a<br />

music venue (110 Boulevard Anspach,<br />

abconcerts.be) that has hosted all the<br />

greats. Look out for Macy Gray, Paul<br />

Weller and Lou Reed this month.<br />

LATER Chez Maman Behind an<br />

unmarked door in the Rue des Grands<br />

Carmes, tiny drag cabaret Chez Maman<br />

(7 Rue des Grands Carmes) is a<br />

Brussels institution. Free entry from<br />

midnight to dawn for disco classics.<br />

One of the calmer of St Géry’s many<br />

watering holes, the Roi des Belges<br />

(35-37 Rue Jules Van Praet) has a<br />

kitsch cocktail lounge on the first floor,<br />

and a more traditional bar vibe<br />

downstairs. DJ sets at weekends.<br />

TIP The Friday night Roller Bike Parade<br />

restarts on 8 June and it’s a whole new<br />

way to see the city. The first hour from<br />

8-9pm is for beginners; after that, the<br />

pace accelerates. Parades are<br />

confirmed on the day. Meet at Place<br />

Poelaart (Louise Metro), if you dare.<br />

On Holiday?<br />

Park, Sleep & Fly<br />

PLACE BRUGMANN<br />

On the boundary between hip<br />

Ixelles and leafy Uccle, Place<br />

Brugmann has it all: great food,<br />

superior shopping and glorious<br />

architecture to admire.<br />

EAT Bustling foodie paradise Gaudron<br />

(3 Place Brugmann, (0)2 343 9790) is<br />

open all day for anything from<br />

breakfast, to ice-cream sundaes, to a<br />

full three-course meal. La Canne en<br />

Ville (22 Rue de la Réforme, (0)2 347<br />

2926) is a local treasure of a restaurant<br />

that serves high-quality, seasonal<br />

French bourgeois cooking in a tiled<br />

former butcher’s shop. The<br />

chateaubriand for two, served with<br />

gratin dauphinois is a fine homage to<br />

the site’s former vocation.<br />

CULTURE Musée Van Buren (41 Ave.<br />

Léo Errera) is a 1930s villa in vast,<br />

beautifully maintained gardens: with a<br />

world-class art collection, from the<br />

Renaissance to surrealism.<br />

SHOP Claude Hontoir (14 Place<br />

Brugmann) An acid bright and playful<br />

boutique of stylish children’s clothes,<br />

homewares and brilliantly chosen toys<br />

starting at pocket money prices. At<br />

La Feuille (199 Rue Berkendael, (0)2<br />

Information or reservations?<br />

reservations@brussels.valk.com<br />

+32-(0)2 277 2000<br />

www.hotelbrusselsairport.com<br />

VAN DER VALK HOTEL BRUSSELS AIRPORT


Traditional Lebanese cuisine<br />

in ‘La Bascule’, Brussels. We<br />

offer a wide range of delicious,<br />

gourmet and snack food in a<br />

warm and friendly environment.<br />

At the weekend we offer<br />

entertainment in the form of our<br />

resident belly dancer. We also<br />

offer a catering service for events,<br />

or just to be enjoyed at home.<br />

So come and join us for a<br />

complete Lebanese experience!<br />

Welcome to O Liban<br />

Chaussée de Vleurgat 324, 1050 Bruxelles | T: +32 (0) 2 640 0707 | www.o-liban.com<br />

TUE - SAT 07:00 - 23:30<br />

SUN & MON FROM 07:00 - 16:00<br />

Fermé samedi midi et dimanche,<br />

sauf réservation d’au moins 30 personnes<br />

Boulevard de La Cambre 12<br />

1000 Bruxelles<br />

Tel : 02 640 44 22<br />

www.truffenoire.com<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Luigi Ciciriello Owner Of La Truffe Noire


u blq fao gva got lys mad ncl fco vce vie<br />

343 9600) owner Laurent and a team<br />

of testers trial everything at this 100%<br />

organic beauty boutique and treatment<br />

room for 28 days: only the products<br />

they genuinely rate (including Ren,<br />

Iroisie and Jo Wood fragrances) get<br />

shelf space. Impressive.<br />

TIP The tiny swimming pool on Rue<br />

Darwin is pretty special: it’s housed in<br />

an exquisite 1902 art nouveau town<br />

house with glorious views. The pool is<br />

open to the public daily: check times on<br />

the website or by phone (15 Rue Darwin,<br />

darwinaquaclub.be, (0)2 347 1151).<br />

WATERMAEL-BOITSFORT<br />

Relaxed, green and gourmet,<br />

Watermael-Boitsfort is a village<br />

within the city, bordering the<br />

beautiful Soignes forest.<br />

EAT Chez Josy (15 Place Keym, (0)2<br />

679 0153) is where to go if you favour<br />

‘Slow Food’ and organic produce.<br />

Healthy lunchtime plates of local<br />

vegetables, cheese and charcuterie,<br />

fresh juices and cakes. There’s also a<br />

small selection of organic groceries on<br />

sale. Brussels has more than its fair<br />

share of good gelateria, but Capoue<br />

(52 Place Keym, (0)2 675 5530) is one<br />

of the best: flavours like salted caramel,<br />

four spice, and pear and pink pepper<br />

explain the permanent queues. The<br />

Boitsfort branch has a sunny terrace.<br />

CULTURE Cultural centre La Vénerie<br />

(3 Rue Gratès, (0)2 663 8550) is a<br />

cinema, exhibition space and concert<br />

venue in one. In June it hosts a festival<br />

of street arts, the ‘Fête des Fleurs’.<br />

TIP The Sunday morning market at<br />

Place Wiener is one of Brussels’ finest,<br />

with organic produce, clothes and crafts<br />

and plenty of pre-lunch aperitifs such as<br />

oysters washed down with champagne.<br />

MAROLLES<br />

Vintage and antiques fans could<br />

spend a blissful weekend in<br />

Brussels without ever emerging<br />

from the passageways and deep,<br />

dark Aladdin’s caves of bric-a-brac<br />

that line the two parallel streets,<br />

Rue Haute and Rue Blaes.<br />

SLEEP Villa Sablon (26 Rue Sainte<br />

Anne, villasablon.com, (0)477 813781,<br />

marche aux<br />

poissons/vismet<br />

ste-catherine<br />

st-katelijne<br />

dansaert<br />

RUE A. DANSAERT / A. DANSAERTSTRAAT<br />

halles st-gery<br />

st-gorikshallen<br />

R. VAN ARTEVELDE / ARTEVELDESTRAAT<br />

E<br />

BLVD ANSPACH / ANSPACHLAAN<br />

RUE DU MIDI / ZUIDSTRAAT<br />

marolles<br />

marollen<br />

p. du jeu de balle<br />

vossenplein<br />

INFO<br />

For more<br />

information about<br />

places to stay,<br />

things to do and<br />

much more, go to<br />

visitbrussels.be<br />

Belgium extra...<br />

See pages 76 & 78<br />

for a special double<br />

Belgian city focus.<br />

This issue: Liège<br />

and Ostend<br />

de brouckère<br />

place ste-catherine<br />

st-katelijneplein<br />

RUE BLAES / BLAESSTRAAT<br />

RUE HAUTE / HOOGSTRAAT<br />

place du beguinage<br />

begijnhof<br />

RUE DE LAEKEN / LAKENSESTRAAT<br />

place de<br />

la bourse<br />

beursplein<br />

RUE DU LOMBARD / LOMBARDSTRAAT<br />

manneken<br />

pis<br />

place de la chapelle<br />

kapellemarkt<br />

BLVD A.MAX / A.MAXLAAN<br />

rooms from €100) is a stylish<br />

guesthouse in an ancient brick building<br />

off the beautiful Place du Grand Sablon.<br />

Breakfast is provided at Wittamer,<br />

superlative patissier to the Belgian royal<br />

family, just around the corner.<br />

SHOP Brussels vintage queen,<br />

Jacqueline Ezma, has just opened Idiz<br />

Bogam (180-182 Rue Haute), a vast<br />

new 20th-century design and<br />

fashion shop replacing her previous<br />

Dansaert premises. Anything but<br />

understated, the shop has a snakeskin<br />

counter and leopard print carpet.<br />

EAT Organic fusion restaurant Soul<br />

(20 Rue de la Samaritaine, (0)2 513<br />

gare centrale<br />

centraal station<br />

5213, is hidden away in a back street.<br />

The food is delicious and good for you<br />

with tailor-made ‘Beauty’, ‘Energy’ and<br />

‘Detox’ menus (from €26).<br />

CULTURE Porte de Hal (150 Boulevard<br />

du Midi), the last trace of the city’s<br />

medieval fortifications, is a well-known<br />

Brussels’ landmark, but few people<br />

know it’s also a museum telling<br />

the fascinating story of the city’s<br />

medieval defences.<br />

TIP The morning (7am-2pm) flea<br />

market on Place du Jeu de Balle is an<br />

unmissable treasure hunt – there’s<br />

plenty of junk to trawl through, but<br />

also the odd gem.<br />

74 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO brussels from 50 european destinations. brusselsairlines.com<br />

BLVD É.JACQMAIN / É.JACQMAINLAAN<br />

RUE GRÉTRY / GRÉTRYSTRAAT<br />

RUE NEUVE / NIEUWSTRAAT<br />

R. DE L'ÉCUYER SCHILDKNAAPS / BISS CHOPSSTRAAT<br />

grand-place<br />

grote markt<br />

place st-jean<br />

st-jansplein<br />

B. DE L'EMPEREREUR / KEIZERSLAAN<br />

RUE DES MINIMES / MINIENENSTRAAT<br />

mont des arts<br />

kunstberg<br />

grand sablon<br />

grote zavel<br />

RUE E.ALLARD / E.ALLARDSTRAAT<br />

palais de justice<br />

justitiepaleis<br />

BLVD DE L'IMPÉRATRICE / KEIZERINLAAN<br />

RUE AUX LAINES / WOLSTRAAT<br />

rue neuve<br />

nieuwstraat<br />

place des martyrs<br />

martelaarsplein<br />

opera<br />

louise<br />

louiza<br />

B<br />

square<br />

m. magritte<br />

sablon<br />

zavel<br />

RUE DU MARAIS / BROEKSTRAAT<br />

B. DE BERLAIMONT / BERLAIMONTLAAN<br />

museés des beaux-arts<br />

m. voor schone kunsten<br />

B. DU JARDIN BOTANIQUE / KRUIDTUINLAAN B. BISCHOFFSHEIM / BISCHOFFSHEIMLAAN<br />

cathédrale<br />

kathedraal<br />

bozar<br />

parc<br />

park<br />

BLVD PACHÉCO / PACHECOLAAN<br />

BOULEVARD DE WATERLOO / WATERLOOLAAN<br />

RUE DE LA LOI / WETSTRAAT<br />

RUE ROYALE / KONINGSTRAAT<br />

congres<br />

place du congres<br />

congresplein<br />

parc de<br />

bruxelles<br />

m. des instruments de musique<br />

muziekinstrumenten museum<br />

place royale<br />

koningsplein<br />

palais royal<br />

koninklijk paleis<br />

porte de namur<br />

naamsepoort<br />

jardin botanique<br />

kruidtuin<br />

RUE DUCALE / HERTOGSTRAAT<br />

botanique<br />

kruidtuin<br />

palais de la nation<br />

paleis der natie<br />

arts-loi<br />

kunst-wet<br />

BLVD DU RÉGENT / REGENTLAAN<br />

ILLUSTRATION: IAN DUTNALL


295 furnished apartments<br />

in Brussels (Lambermont,<br />

Louise and Leopold district)<br />

www.immobe.be<br />

All these apartments are part of the Aedifica group.<br />

Avenue Louise 331 - 1050 Brussels<br />

tel +32 2 626 07 76 - fax +32 2 626 08 81<br />

BOUTIQUE<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

Fermé dimanche et lundi soir<br />

Avenue Louise 300<br />

1050 Bruxelles<br />

Tél.: 02 640 54 55<br />

www.atelier.truffenoire.com<br />

« Inspiré par La Truffe Noire, sa maison mère, L’Atelier de La Truffe Noire ouvre sa carte à<br />

la nouvelle saison de la truffe du Périgord. Particulièrement parfumée, riche et odorante<br />

cette année, elle nous enivre déjà les sens. Et si elle se décline chez nous à la façon « de<br />

tous les jours », elle n’en est pas moins la perle de cet hiver. Un délice au quotidien, à<br />

répéter tout au long d’une année que je vous souhaite succulente. »<br />

Gil Van Haut<br />

Gérant de L’Atelier La Truffe Noire


u blq fao gva got lys mad ncl fco vce vie<br />

liÈge<br />

belgium<br />

10,431,477<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

+32 15°C<br />

emma thomson<br />

Known as La Cité Ardente – The Passionate<br />

City – Liège is steeped in folkloric romance<br />

QUARTIER<br />

HORS-CHÂTEAU<br />

Nestled beneath Liège’s wooded<br />

hillside, this quiet eastern quarter<br />

of the historic centre is a charming<br />

jumble of pedestrianised streets<br />

and intriguing narrow alleyways.<br />

SLEEP Occupying a renovated<br />

18th-century house, the Hôtel Hors-<br />

Château (Rue Hors Château 62,<br />

(0)4 250 60 68, hors-chateau.be,<br />

rooms from €78) is an intimate threestar<br />

with modern rooms decorated in<br />

shades of black and aubergine. It also<br />

offers free Wi-Fi and a shuttle service<br />

from Brussels airport.<br />

EAT Locals love the romantic Le Thème<br />

(Impasse de la Couronne 9, (0)4 222 02<br />

02). It has become one of Liège’s best<br />

restaurants because of its innovative,<br />

seasonal fixed-price menus and everchanging<br />

décor. Its popularity means<br />

reservations are essential. Hidden away<br />

and equally charming, is Nun’s<br />

(Impasse des Ursulines 18, (0)4 222 10<br />

69) where the interior is decorated with<br />

lively graphic wall-art while outside<br />

there’s a small terrace overlooking a<br />

pond. Serves pricey but interesting<br />

French-fusion cuisine.<br />

CULTURE The imposing Grand Curtis<br />

(Quai de Maastricht 13) museum has<br />

only been open a few years and displays<br />

the city’s staggering 5,200 strong<br />

collection of historic artefacts, from<br />

weaponry to art.<br />

INFO<br />

Brussels Airport<br />

is 93km north-west<br />

of Liège.<br />

Train<br />

There are trains<br />

every 30 minutes<br />

from the airport to<br />

Liège-Guillemins<br />

station, taking one<br />

hour and 10 minutes<br />

with a change at<br />

Bruxelles-Nord.<br />

Tickets cost €18.90<br />

one-way.<br />

Taxi<br />

A taxi from Brussels<br />

Airport will cost<br />

around €150 and<br />

take about an hour.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The main tourist<br />

offi ce is at<br />

Féronstrée 92,<br />

(0)4 221 92 21,<br />

(liege-tourisme.be),<br />

with a smaller<br />

Maison du Tourisme<br />

on Place St<br />

Lambert.<br />

SHOP Don’t miss the mile-long La Batte<br />

– which is one of Europe’s largest<br />

markets – held every Sunday from 8am<br />

to 2.30pm along the waterfront. You<br />

can buy anything from fruit and veg to<br />

clothes and plants.<br />

TIP Climb the 406 steps of the<br />

Montagne de Bueren – near to Église<br />

Saint-Gérard – for wonderful views of<br />

the city. This might be a good place to<br />

see some of the 99th Tour de France<br />

which departs from the city at the end<br />

of the month (30 June).<br />

SAINT-PAUL<br />

Just south of the popular and<br />

student-filled Le Carré district, the<br />

skyward-pointing spire of the city<br />

cathedral is an important landmark<br />

that will help you orientate while<br />

you sightsee.<br />

SLEEP Moored on the banks of the<br />

River Meuse, L’Embrun (Au Port de<br />

Yachts, (0) 476 05 20 05, penichehotel.<br />

com, rooms from €61) is a converted<br />

barge with nine simple rooms. If you<br />

want to really splash out, book the<br />

Capitainerie suite. Sailing trips are<br />

also available.<br />

EAT Upmarket diners should make a<br />

booking at Le Septime (Rue St-Paul<br />

12, (0)4 221 03 06). This family-run<br />

restaurant has a great menu which<br />

features just a handful of carefully<br />

selected seasonal fish and meat dishes.<br />

For something more relaxed, try the<br />

Liège is an intriguing<br />

mix of the historic<br />

and the modern<br />

long-established Café Lequet (Quai sur<br />

Meuse 17, (0)4 222 21 34) which dishes<br />

up local specialities such as bouletsfrites<br />

(meatballs soused in sweet local<br />

syrup) and salad liégeoise (potatoes,<br />

bacon and green beans).<br />

CULTURE Work on the Cathédrale<br />

Saint-Paul (Place St-Paul) started in<br />

the 13th century and took over 600<br />

years to complete, just in time for the<br />

church’s promotion following the<br />

destruction of the cathedral that once<br />

stood on Place St-Lambert. The ceiling<br />

bears splendid 16th-century paintings,<br />

but it’s the treasury (Rue Bonne-<br />

Fortune 6) in the cloister that’s of<br />

most interest. It houses an enormous<br />

16th-century golden bust, which<br />

conceals the skull of St Lambert – a<br />

bishop from Tongeren who brought<br />

Christianity to the region in the<br />

8th century.<br />

SHOP Chic Irina Khä (Rue de Pot d’Or<br />

12) is a multi-floor boutique selling top<br />

designer labels such as Prada and Dior.<br />

It also stocks fashion from Antwerp<br />

designers Dries Van Noten and Ann<br />

Demeulemeester.<br />

LATER Try and catch a show at<br />

Le Forum (Rue Pont d’Avroy 14,<br />

leforum.be), a wonderful theatre with<br />

red velvet seating and old-world<br />

glamour. There are events most nights<br />

and tickets can be bought online.<br />

TIP Look out for local tipple pèkèt – a<br />

type of gin, but go easy if you have<br />

sightseeing plans the next day!<br />

76 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO brussels from 50 european destinations. brusselsairlines.com


there_90X245_24Mai<strong>2012</strong>.ai 1 5/23/12 8:44 PM<br />

Brussels City Museum?<br />

Magnificent neo-Gothic building in<br />

the Grand-Place, opposite the Town Hall.<br />

The museum is devoted to the history of Brussels:<br />

fine and applied arts, the origin and development<br />

of the city, the history of the people of Brussels<br />

and the dressing room of that<br />

quintessentially Brussels symbol, Manneken-Pis!<br />

Brussels City Museum<br />

Grand-Place, 1000 Brussels<br />

Every Thursday till 8 pm!<br />

www.brusselscitymuseum.be<br />

FESTIVAL DE WALLONIE<br />

/ WALLONIA FESTIVAL :<br />

« THE HISPANICS »<br />

LEONARDO<br />

GARCÍA<br />

ALARCÓN<br />

CONDUCTING HIS THREE ENSEMBLES::<br />

NAMUR CHAMBER CHOIR<br />

CAPPELLA MEDITERRANEA<br />

CLEMATIS ENSEMBLE<br />

120 CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS<br />

FROM JUNE TO OCTOBER<br />

WWW.FESTIVALDEWALLONIE.BE<br />

Carmina Latina :<br />

09 / 06, 8pm<br />

Opening night of<br />

the Wallonia Festival<br />

(Saint-Aubin Cathedral, Namur)<br />

01 / 07, 7pm<br />

Musiq3 Festival<br />

(Flagey, Brussels)<br />

03 / 08, 8pm<br />

Stavelot Festival<br />

(Church of St Sebastian)<br />

special<br />

guest<br />

<strong>2012</strong><br />

21 / 09, 8.30pm<br />

September Nights<br />

Church of St Jacques, Liège)<br />

22 / 09, 8.30pm<br />

Brabant Walloon Festival<br />

(Biereau Farm, Louvain la Neuve)<br />

23 / 09, 8pm<br />

Wallonia-Hainaut Festival<br />

(St Waudru Cathedral, Mons)


u blq fao gva got lys mad ncl fco vce vie<br />

ostend<br />

belgium<br />

10,431,477 +32 13°C<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

adrian mourby<br />

Ostend is a quirky, coastal city that knows<br />

how to enjoy the arrival of summer<br />

PROMENADE<br />

There’s a touch of faded Victorian<br />

seaside grandeur about the Albert I<br />

Promenade and some very good<br />

restaurants too.<br />

SLEEP Thermae Palace (Koningin<br />

Astridlaan 7, (0)59 80 66 44,<br />

thermaepalace.be, rooms from €150)<br />

was where wealthy travellers once<br />

came to ‘take the waters’. It’s right on<br />

the beach, just by the old Royal Villa.<br />

EAT Savarin (Albert I-promenade 75,<br />

(0) 59 51 31 71) is the best place in town<br />

for a slap-up meal. Great sunset sea<br />

views and a seven-course degustation<br />

menu that is well worth €84 (or €120<br />

when paired with excellent wines).<br />

CULTURE !Dansand! (along Albert<br />

I-promenade) is a free festival of<br />

modern dance on the beach that runs<br />

from 28 June-1 July. If you prefer<br />

something less intense you can hire a<br />

Marvin Gaye audio tour from the<br />

Tourist Board (Monacoplein 2) for €5<br />

and discover the Ostend that was the<br />

Motown legend’s home for two years.<br />

SHOP Vitrine Lulu Store (Van<br />

Iseghemlaan 75) claims they can sell<br />

you anything Jean-Paul Gautier has<br />

created. For something cheaper go to<br />

Pompoen (Van Iseghemlaan 80) for<br />

vintage clothing.<br />

LATER La Fayette (Langestraat 12) is<br />

part of a strip of wonderfully seedy<br />

music bars along Langestraat.<br />

TIP Get a free taste of Marvin Gaye<br />

INFO<br />

Brussels Airport is<br />

about 120 km<br />

south-east of<br />

Ostend.<br />

Train<br />

Trains depart from<br />

airport level, every<br />

15 minutes at peak<br />

time, to Brussels’<br />

three main stations.<br />

The journey takes<br />

25 minutes and<br />

costs €5.40. The<br />

Brussels-Ostende<br />

train costs €16<br />

(one way) and the<br />

journey time is<br />

from one hour<br />

20 minutes.<br />

Taxi<br />

The journey is<br />

always in excess of<br />

€200. Journey time<br />

is around one hour<br />

and 15minutes if the<br />

traffi c is good. There<br />

is a €200 fi xed fare<br />

when returning<br />

from Ostend to<br />

Brussels Airport.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The main tourist<br />

offi ce is at<br />

Monacoplein 2,<br />

(0)59 25 53 16,<br />

(visitoostende.be).<br />

outside Residence Jane (Albert I<br />

Promenade 77) which is where he lived<br />

in a fourth-floor flat. Villa Maritza next<br />

door is a classic Ostend holiday home<br />

from the Victorian era.<br />

MARINA<br />

The Jachthaven and Mercator<br />

marinas are located near the<br />

station – an area that used to be<br />

part of the city moat.<br />

SLEEP Hotel du Bassin (Visserskaai 1,<br />

(0) 59 70 33 83, hoteldubassin.be<br />

rooms from €89 ) is run by Tom and<br />

Elsie Vanhaecke-Bruynoghe who have<br />

gone for a nautical theme throughout.<br />

EAT De Bistronoom (Vindictivelaan 22,<br />

(0)473 73 48 01) is a brilliant<br />

development of the gastro-pub. Each<br />

course is served with a specially<br />

selected beer, usually Belgian.<br />

CULTURE Church of St Peter and St<br />

Paul (Sint-Petrus-en-Paulusplein 8) is<br />

Ostend’s main church, a grandiose<br />

Victorian neo-Gothic creation much<br />

beloved by King Leopold II. Note the<br />

striking similarity to Cologne Cathedral<br />

on which it was based.<br />

LATER ‘t Kroegske (Sint Paulusstraat<br />

80) is the home of the annual Paulus<br />

Festival, a festival with free music and<br />

street entertainment, and the most<br />

photographed exterior of any bar in<br />

Ostend. You don’t have to be drunk to<br />

see why. The landlord adds to the<br />

colourful scene.<br />

Popular hang-out<br />

‘t Kroegske<br />

WAPENPLEIN<br />

The historic marketplace of<br />

Ostend now has a bandstand<br />

where you can catch a concert<br />

during the summer.<br />

SLEEP Hotel Polaris (Groentemarkt<br />

19, (0)59 27 90 06, restopolaris.be,<br />

rooms from €99) is an old<br />

greengrocer’s shop refurbished in<br />

stylish black and white. It’s a good base,<br />

friendly and very central.<br />

EAT Die Mosselbeurs (Dwarsstraat 10,<br />

0)59 80 73 10) serves fish and mussels<br />

in a slightly zany but stylish restaurant<br />

with a huge, theatrical spiral staircase.<br />

The chef’s bouillabaisse is well worth €28.<br />

CULTURE The former Capuchin<br />

Monastery Church (Kapucijnenstraat)<br />

with its delicate baroque scrollwork is<br />

one of the oldest buildings in Ostend.<br />

SHOP Oil & Vinegar (Kapellestraat<br />

95b) specialises in Tuscan produce –<br />

lots of olive oil and fancy bowls to keep<br />

it in. Leonidas (Kapellestraat) is the<br />

local branch of the Belgian chocolate<br />

store founded 100 years ago by<br />

Leonidas Kestekides.<br />

LATER La Habana de Ché<br />

(Vissersplein 5) is a cocktail bar and<br />

Spanish restaurant near Montgomery<br />

Bar that proves Belgium is not just<br />

about beer. Café Fats Domino<br />

(Kerkstraat 6) is an Irish-style bar<br />

adorned with pictures of Fats that<br />

serves Keyte, a beer brewed to mark<br />

the Siege of Ostend (1603).<br />

78 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

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bologna<br />

italy<br />

61,016,804 +39 21°C<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

Twice daily<br />

Stephen Keeling<br />

Bologna is a city of crimson colonnades, fine<br />

galleries and some of the best food in Italy<br />

CITY CENTRE<br />

The historic heart of Bologna<br />

brims with celebrated restaurants,<br />

cafés, shops, museums and<br />

grand palazzos, centred on the<br />

monumental space of Piazza<br />

Maggiore and its elegant Neptune<br />

Fountain.<br />

SLEEP Art Hotel Novecento (Piazza<br />

Galileo 4/3, 051 745 7311, art-hotelnovecento.it,<br />

rooms from €158) is<br />

wonderfully located close to the main<br />

piazza, with a range of stylish art deco<br />

themed rooms and a huge continental<br />

buffet breakfast. Albergo delle<br />

Drapperie (Via della Drapperie 5, 051<br />

223955, albergodrapperie.com, rooms<br />

from €75) offers equally central, if no<br />

frills, rooms for travellers on a budget.<br />

EAT Vicolo Colombina (Vicolo<br />

Colombina 5/B, 051 233919) is a<br />

superb contemporary restaurant<br />

specializing in modern versions of<br />

traditional Bolognese dishes such as<br />

tagliatelle al ragù. Enoteca Italiana<br />

(Via Marsala 2/b, 051 235989) is a<br />

more casual affair, an aromatic shop/<br />

wine bar where you can sip a local rosso<br />

while enjoying a sandwich.<br />

CULTURE Basilica di San Petronio<br />

(Piazza Maggiore), a huge Gothic<br />

church containing the mural-smothered<br />

Cappella Bolognini honours the patron<br />

saint of Bologna. Le due Torri (Piazza<br />

di Porta Ravegnana), two soaring<br />

medieval towers, are symbols of the<br />

INFO<br />

Bologna Airport is<br />

6km north-west of<br />

the city centre.<br />

Bus<br />

The Aerobus-BLQ<br />

shuttle service<br />

departs just outside<br />

the terminal<br />

building for Bologna<br />

train station<br />

(Stazione Centrale),<br />

via Ugo Bassi and<br />

Indipendenza in<br />

the centre, every<br />

15 minutes<br />

(6am-12.15pm) and<br />

takes around 20<br />

minutes; one-way<br />

tickets cost €6.<br />

Taxi<br />

A taxi to the city<br />

centre will cost<br />

approximately €15<br />

and take 15 minutes.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The main tourist<br />

offi ce is at Piazza<br />

Maggiore 1 in the<br />

Palazzo del Podestà,<br />

open daily 9am-7pm,<br />

051 239660,<br />

(bolognawelcome.<br />

com).<br />

city. Climb the Asinelli (97metres, a<br />

walk up 498 steps), for panoramic views.<br />

SHOP Majani (Via de’ Carbonesi 5), is<br />

Italy’s oldest sweet shop (founded<br />

1796) and is best known for its<br />

wonderful chocolates. Bruno Magli<br />

(Galleria Cavour, Via Farini) opened in<br />

Bologna in 1936, and the posh boutique<br />

continues to sell Magli’s latest range of<br />

bags, jackets and shoes.<br />

LATER Bar Giuseppe (Piazza Maggiore<br />

1) has been a classic spot to relax over<br />

espresso, gelato and vino since 1804.<br />

TIP When planning your sightseeing<br />

bear in mind that most museums in<br />

Bologna are closed on Mondays.<br />

Churches generally close for a long<br />

lunch between noon and 3.30pm every<br />

day; many shops do the same.<br />

Restaurants usually close all day on<br />

Sundays or Mondays.<br />

THE UNIVERSITY<br />

DISTRICT<br />

The ancient schools, chapels,<br />

quirky museums and students of<br />

Bologna University, founded back in<br />

1088, enliven the eastern half of the<br />

city’s historic core.<br />

EAT Osteria dell’Orsa (Via Mentana<br />

1F, 051 231576) is a student favourite,<br />

with communal wood tables and some<br />

of the best ragù alla bolognese in town.<br />

Gelatauro (Via San Vitale 98/b, 051<br />

230049) is a gourmet gelato shop, with<br />

organic flavours ranging from chocolate<br />

Camera a Sud<br />

orange and ‘cheese and pears’ to<br />

jasmine and bergamot.<br />

CULTURE Pinacoteca Nazionale di<br />

Bologna (Via delle Belle Arti 56)<br />

displays Bolognese painting from the<br />

14th century to Guido Reni; though<br />

works by Giotto, El Greco and Raphael<br />

also feature.<br />

LATER Camera a Sud (Via Valdonica<br />

5) is a hugely popular student hang-out,<br />

with a great selection of wines, coffee<br />

and snacks. Cantina Bentivoglio (Via<br />

Mascarella 4B) hosts the best live jazz<br />

in the city from 8pm most nights.<br />

LA MANIFATTURA<br />

DELLE ARTI<br />

Wander the streets of the up-andcoming<br />

Factory of the Arts district,<br />

where old tobacco factories and<br />

slaughterhouses have been<br />

transformed into art galleries,<br />

boutiques, restaurants and cafés.<br />

EAT L’Ex Forno (Museo d’Arte<br />

Moderna, Don Minzoni 14, 051 649<br />

3896) is strategically located for a light<br />

lunch. Aperitivo (wine with small buffet)<br />

served from 7pm.<br />

CULTURE Museo d’Arte Moderna di<br />

Bologna (Via Don Minzoni 14)<br />

showcases modern Italian art and<br />

visiting exhibitions. The gallery is at the<br />

heart of Sonde – New Media Art <strong>2012</strong><br />

(19-22 June, sondefestival.it), a<br />

celebration of dance, video and digital<br />

art in the centre of the city.<br />

80 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

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far0<br />

portugal<br />

10,760,305 +351 20°C<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

four times weekly<br />

Paul Rouse<br />

Enjoy the sunshine of the Algarve before the<br />

intense heat and crowds of high summer<br />

CENTRAL &<br />

EASTERN ALGARVE<br />

For golf and a bit of glitz, the<br />

Golden Triangle is one of the<br />

Algarve’s busiest and most popular<br />

areas. For a little more peace and<br />

quiet, head east.<br />

SLEEP Designer seclusion arrives this<br />

month in the shape of the new Fazenda<br />

Nova (Santo Estevao, Moncarapacho,<br />

910 629 595, fazendanova.eu, rooms<br />

from €150), a country estate converted<br />

into a stylish 10-bedroom retreat by the<br />

owners, complete with restaurant, pool,<br />

gardens and orchards.<br />

EAT Gourmet private catering company<br />

Fine Dining In Style now has a swish<br />

restaurant, Gisela’s (Praça, Vale do<br />

Lobo, 289 353 421). The restaurant<br />

serves high-quality Portuguese and<br />

international cuisine in an enviable<br />

location with ocean views.<br />

CULTURE Fashion and fitness shows,<br />

beauty makeovers, photo shoots, food<br />

and wine tastings, and trips on a private<br />

yacht are all on the agenda at Glamour,<br />

a taste of the high life which is taking<br />

place at Vila Vita Parc (Alporchinos,<br />

Porches) on 21 June.<br />

SHOP For great ideas for outside living,<br />

home accessories, flowers and gifts,<br />

head for the newly opened Dunas<br />

Home (Rua Sacadura Cabral, Almancil),<br />

a perfect complement to the existing<br />

Dunas fashion boutique in nearby<br />

Quinta Shopping.<br />

INFO<br />

Faro International<br />

Airport is 7km from<br />

Faro city centre.<br />

Taxi<br />

The fare to Faro is<br />

approx €10. Other<br />

destinations – Olhão<br />

€18, Vilamoura €25,<br />

Albufeira and<br />

Tavira €40.<br />

Bus<br />

Airport buses go<br />

to Faro and shared<br />

shuttle buses serve<br />

selected resorts. Eva<br />

buses (eva-bus.<br />

com) go to various<br />

Algarve destinations.<br />

Train<br />

The nearest train<br />

station is Faro.<br />

Trains go to various<br />

Algarve destinations<br />

and Lisbon.<br />

Car<br />

Car hire is the best<br />

way to explore the<br />

interior. All the<br />

major companies<br />

have desks at the<br />

airport but<br />

pre-booking is<br />

recommended.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The Faro Tourist<br />

Information Centre<br />

(visitalgarve.pt)<br />

is at 8-12 Rua da<br />

Misericordia. 289<br />

803 604. Open<br />

9.30am-5.30pm<br />

daily.<br />

LATER Johnny Hooper’s (Rua Almeida<br />

Garrett, Albufeira) is a relaxed barrestaurant<br />

featuring the sax-playing<br />

owner on stage every Tuesday and<br />

Friday night, plus Latino and blues<br />

bands every Sunday afternoon.<br />

TIP Wine lovers are starting to<br />

discover the Algarve. Find out for<br />

yourself if this growing reputation is<br />

deserved with a wine tour at Adega do<br />

Cantor in Guia or Quinta dos Vales in<br />

Estombar, or a taste-and-buy session at<br />

Veneza in Paderne.<br />

FURTHER AFIELD:<br />

WESTERN ALGARVE<br />

Long-established resorts like<br />

Carvoeiro and Praia da Rocha mix<br />

tourist attractions with a touch of<br />

the real Algarve.<br />

SLEEP A luxury villa-style boutique<br />

hotel close to Caneiros beach, Casa Rei<br />

das Praias (Vale da Azinhaga, Ferragudo,<br />

282 491 416, casareidaspraias.com,<br />

rooms from €130) is ideal for a romantic<br />

stay, and has both indoor and outdoor<br />

pools and a mini-spa. Vale d’Oliveiras<br />

(Gramacho, Carvoeiro, 282 380 560,<br />

valedoliveirasresort.com, rooms from<br />

€189) offers two separate units – the<br />

hotel for couples and the residences for<br />

families, plus a comprehensive range of<br />

excellent facilities.<br />

EAT Contemporary Portuguese cuisine<br />

and an extensive wine list are on the<br />

menu at Pimenta Preta (Palm<br />

Luxury boutique hotel<br />

Casa Rei das Praias<br />

Gardens, Carvoeiro, 282 350 281), with<br />

live music by the pool on Friday<br />

evenings in summer.<br />

CULTURE The Algarve International<br />

Fair (Lagoa Showground, 2-3 June,<br />

algarvefair.com) combines a lifestyle<br />

exhibition with family fun, including car<br />

displays, arts and crafts, a dog show,<br />

and plenty to eat and drink. Expect<br />

special events for the Queen’s Jubilee.<br />

SHOP There’s a ‘secret garden’ feel to<br />

Studio Bongard (Rua Infante Dom<br />

Henrique, Ferragudo), where you will<br />

find sculptures, paintings and tiled<br />

pieces hidden among the plants and<br />

indoor ponds as you wander through<br />

the various courtyards and rooms. For<br />

souvenirs with a difference, the quaint<br />

Cantinho da São (Rua do Casino,<br />

Carvoeiro) offers hand-made Portuguese<br />

lace, purses, bags, cushions and<br />

children’s toys.<br />

LATER The award-winning cocktails are<br />

reason enough to seek out InnSide Caffé<br />

(Rua do Barranco, Carvoeiro) – not to<br />

mention the 4am closing time. If you<br />

fancy a dance go to Katedral (Avenida<br />

Tomaz Cabreira, Praia da Rocha), with<br />

separate areas playing house, 80s,<br />

R&B, Latin and pop. There is also a<br />

balcony with wonderful sea views.<br />

TIP For an online guide to facilities and<br />

services in the Algarve which are geared<br />

towards the requirements of visitors<br />

with disabilities, special needs or<br />

medical conditions, go to<br />

somewherespecial.org.uk.<br />

82 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

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the best beaches, the charm of the city or the historic wealth of World Heritage. All of this<br />

<br />

plus the best wining and dining in our top quality restaurants. Make the most of our local<br />

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and ask for your free Tivoli GHA DIscovery membership card.<br />

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geneva<br />

switzerland<br />

7,6398,961 +41 16°C<br />

swiss franc (chf)<br />

seven times daily<br />

Elizabeth Kelly<br />

Geneva’s lakeside terraces get busy in June –<br />

so grab a table and watch the world go by<br />

CENTRE VILLE<br />

You can’t visit Geneva without<br />

crossing the very centre of town –<br />

the Place du Molard. This busy,<br />

cobbled, pedestrian square offers a<br />

variety of food and drinks and a<br />

plethora of tempting shops.<br />

EAT Café du Centre (Place du Molard<br />

5, (0)22 311 8586) has a window full of<br />

fresh seafood and a variety of seasonal<br />

dishes, with summer salads and wines<br />

to match. Brasserie de Molard (Place<br />

du Molard 9, (0)22 311 11 00) serves<br />

beers and cheap, delicious snacks such<br />

as crispy flammenkuchen (hot pizzastyle<br />

pastries).<br />

SHOP Globus (Rue du Rhone 48) has<br />

an entrance on Place du Molard and is<br />

one of Geneva’s most iconic shopping<br />

destinations. You can find everything<br />

from toothpaste to toys as well as<br />

designer clothes and Geneva’s best<br />

delicatessen.<br />

LATER Quirinale (Rue de la Rotisserie<br />

6, (0)22 748 48 48), just a street above<br />

the Place du Molard, is open late for<br />

cocktails served in a glamorous and<br />

boisterous modern bar. Tour de<br />

Molard (2 Place du Molard) is housed in<br />

the steep clocktower that overlooks the<br />

INFO<br />

Geneva Cointrin<br />

International Airport<br />

is 4km from the<br />

city centre.<br />

Train<br />

From the airport to<br />

the city centre takes<br />

six minutes. A Tout<br />

Genève pass, which<br />

you can also use on<br />

buses, is available<br />

free from dispensing<br />

machines before<br />

customs in the<br />

baggage claim area.<br />

Bus<br />

The no.10 or the<br />

no.5 bus will get you<br />

to Cornavin Station<br />

in 10 minutes and<br />

across the river in<br />

about 15 minutes.<br />

Taxi<br />

The journey into the<br />

city centre takes<br />

about 15 minutes<br />

and costs €19.25/<br />

CHF 30.40.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The offi ce is at Rue<br />

du Mont Blanc 18,<br />

(0)22 909 70 00,<br />

(geneve-tourisme.ch).<br />

square. Have a glass of Swiss wine<br />

while admiring the view.<br />

CAROUGE<br />

Artisanal shops and sidewalk cafés<br />

characterise this area of Geneva.<br />

Technically its own state, it is only<br />

a 10-minute tram ride from the<br />

centre of town.<br />

SLEEP Hotel Comedie (Rue de<br />

Carouge 12, (0)22 322 23 24, hotelcomedie.chrooms<br />

from €120/CHF144)<br />

is a convivial place where you can stay<br />

for a night or a month (suites with<br />

kitchenettes are available).<br />

EAT Café des Negociants (Rue de la<br />

Filature, (0)22 300 31 30) is considered<br />

one of Geneva’s top restaurants yet is<br />

not prohibitively expensive. It has an<br />

excellent wine cellar that can be booked<br />

for parties or discreet dining. Café du<br />

Marché (Place du Marché 4, (0)22 827<br />

16 96) has a sunny terrace perfect for<br />

coffee time, lunchtime or cocktail hour.<br />

Wolfisberg (Place du Temple 5, (0)22<br />

342 32 19) is a popular bakery with a<br />

spacious interior.<br />

LATER Club Chat Noir (Rue Vautier<br />

13) rocks with live music until 4am.<br />

Except Sunday and Monday.<br />

Do you want to stay dry travelling through Europe?<br />

Rent an Avis car.<br />

www.brusselsairlines.com/avis<br />

Curiositas<br />

QUARTIER DES BAINS<br />

Visit this area every time you visit<br />

Geneva if only to see the remarkable<br />

changes that are happening – new<br />

galleries and restaurants spring up<br />

on a weekly basis.<br />

EAT Curiositas (Rue des Vieux<br />

Grenadiers 8, (0)22 321 30 37) is<br />

practically a museum in its own right.<br />

Try its sophisticated menu of<br />

interesting dishes served in a superbly<br />

converted industrial space.<br />

CULTURE MAMCO (Geneva’s Museum<br />

of Modern and Contemporary Art), the<br />

Centre d’Art Contemporain Geneve<br />

and the Centre de la Photographie<br />

can all be found under one roof – in a<br />

building known as the BAC (Batiment<br />

d’Art Contemporain). Open from<br />

11am-6pm with a modest entry fee.<br />

Closed on Monday. The Patek Philippe<br />

Museum (Rue des Vieux Grenadiers 7)<br />

caters to a different aesthetic taste with<br />

a display of watches, musical automata<br />

and portrait miniatures. Open Tuesday-<br />

Friday, 2pm-6pm, and Saturday<br />

10am-6pm.<br />

TIP The Ville de Geneve provides free<br />

WiFi in most public spaces such as<br />

parks and squares.


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gothenburg<br />

sweden<br />

9,088,728 +46 15°C<br />

swedish krona (sek)<br />

Three times daily<br />

veronica svanberg<br />

Sweden’s second largest city is pretty and<br />

compact – perfect for a weekend break<br />

MAJORNA<br />

Once a poor working-class area,<br />

this part of town is now a mellow<br />

middle-class bohemia, thanks to<br />

the distinctively Swedish-looking<br />

three-storey brick and wood<br />

Landshövdinge houses.<br />

SLEEP Overlooking the harbour, in an<br />

old brick building that was once a porter<br />

brewery, Novotel (Klippan 1, (0)31 720<br />

22 00, novotel.se, rooms from €115/<br />

SEK855) is a comfortable and relatively<br />

inexpensive choice.<br />

EAT Tapasbaren (Mariagatan 17, (0)31<br />

42 42 11) serves simple, but tasty tapas<br />

dishes in a slightly cramped but cute<br />

space. You’ll find no surprises on the<br />

menu, but the dates wrapped in paperthin<br />

pancetta are heavenly. Dine outside<br />

if the weather allows. Cum Pane<br />

(Mariagatan 17, (0)31 12 15 41) is an<br />

organic bakery next door offering both<br />

sweet and savoury treats. The<br />

sourdough bread is perfection.<br />

CULTURE Kulturreservatet Klippan<br />

is an historic area by the harbour where<br />

many of the buildings date back to the<br />

days of the East India Company.<br />

SHOP Fabriken (Ekedalsgatan 16) sells<br />

a mix of quality furniture and<br />

collectibles, all from 1900 onwards.<br />

LATER Kontiki (Storängsgatan 2) is a<br />

kitsch Tiki-style bar with a few tables for<br />

snacking/drinking (make sure you<br />

reserve well in advance) styled<br />

according to various themes, such as<br />

INFO<br />

The city’s<br />

main airport is<br />

Landvetter, located<br />

20km east of the<br />

city centre.<br />

Bus<br />

The airport is<br />

serviced by<br />

Flygbussarna<br />

airport buses, which<br />

stop at Nils Ericsson<br />

Terminalen (the<br />

main bus station),<br />

Park Aveny (on<br />

Avenyn) and<br />

Korsvägen (for<br />

Liseberg). The<br />

journey costs €21/<br />

SEK189 return and<br />

takes about half<br />

an hour, with<br />

departures every<br />

20 minutes at<br />

peak times.<br />

Taxi<br />

Licensed cabs are<br />

available outside the<br />

terminal building<br />

and offer a fi xed<br />

price for the<br />

half-hour journey<br />

in to town (about<br />

€39/SEK350).<br />

Tourist info<br />

Kungsportsplatsen<br />

2, (0)31 368 42 00,<br />

(goteborg.com).<br />

FLY TO gothenburg three times daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

the ‘stable’ and the ‘mountain cabin’.<br />

A rotating cast of DJs spin indie and<br />

electro sounds.<br />

HAGA<br />

This area is a mix of postcardpretty<br />

cobblestone streets lined<br />

with pastel-coloured fairytale<br />

houses, and slightly neglected main<br />

drags. There are also plenty of<br />

boutiques, cafés and people whose<br />

main occupation seems to be<br />

frequenting them.<br />

EAT In the evening Proviant<br />

(Sprängkullsgatan 10A, (0)706 35 17<br />

56) serves a wide variety of creative<br />

pintxos, a sort of miniature sandwich<br />

hailing from the Basque region. Prices<br />

range from €2.25/SEK20 and up.<br />

Earlier in the day come for the great<br />

breakfast and brunch menus.<br />

Sjöbaren (Haga Nygata 25, (0)31 711<br />

97 80) is a local favourite, furnished in<br />

dark wood and lit by candles. The menu<br />

consists of today’s catch and you can<br />

dine alfresco in the backyard.<br />

CULTURE Pusterviksbaren<br />

(Järntorgsgatan 12) has recently<br />

undergone a facelift and is now bigger<br />

and better than ever. There is live music<br />

almost every night.<br />

SHOP Karltex (Haga Nygata 14)<br />

stocks a mix of fashion for the urban<br />

gentleman. How about a stylish cloth<br />

backpack with vegan leather detail from<br />

Swedish label Sandqvist?<br />

Magnus&Magnus<br />

INOM VALLGRAVEN<br />

It’s just a speck on the city map but<br />

this part of town, confined by<br />

canals on all sides, is chock-full of<br />

trendy shopping and lively nightlife.<br />

SLEEP Clarion Hotel Post<br />

(Drottningtorget 10, (0)31 61 90 00,<br />

clarionpost.com, rooms from €132/<br />

SEK982) is Gothenburg’s latest<br />

boutique hotel. In what was once the<br />

city’s main post office, it features an<br />

impressive 500 rooms, a roof-top<br />

terrace and pool, and a spa styled as a<br />

1950s beauty salon.<br />

EAT Magnus&Magnus (Magasinsgatan<br />

8, (0)31 13 30 00) has been praised by<br />

many critics as one of the best places<br />

to enjoy innovative cuisine firmly rooted<br />

in Scandinavian, particularly west-coast,<br />

culinary traditions. Splurge on a bottle<br />

of something special from Gothenburg’s<br />

most impressive wine cellar.<br />

SHOP Miss Ragtime (Magasinsgatan<br />

15) sells fine vintage, as well as<br />

secondhand, pieces by fashion<br />

heavyweights like Acne, Missoni and<br />

Mulberry. For a selection of menswear<br />

head next door to Ragtime Herr<br />

(Magasinsgatan 15).<br />

LATER Ritz (Bastionsplatsen 2) is a<br />

swanky sprawl of high-ceilinged rooms<br />

where crystal chandeliers dangle and<br />

stylish people mingle.<br />

TIP On Fridays many bars offer an<br />

after-work buffet. Fill up on finger foods<br />

for the price of a drink.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 85


u blq fao gva got lys mad ncl fco vce vie<br />

lyon<br />

france<br />

62,814,223 +33 18°C<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

four times daily<br />

heidi fuller-love<br />

A laid-back old town and a lively clubbing<br />

scene: lyon has something for everyone<br />

PRESQU’ÎLE<br />

Lyon’s trendy peninsula, Presqu’ile,<br />

is studded with stunning ornate<br />

architecture, restaurants, stylish<br />

hotels and more than 3000 shops.<br />

CULTURE Musée des Beaux Arts<br />

(20 Place des Terreaux) is one of<br />

France’s finest art museums. Housed in<br />

a renovated 17th-century convent, the<br />

museum contains works by celebrated<br />

artists including Picasso, Matisse,<br />

Degas and van Gogh.<br />

EAT Chez Francis (53 Quai Rambaud,<br />

(0)4 72 41 78 15) is a real insiders’<br />

address. This simple, shanty-style,<br />

quay-side restaurant serves homely<br />

cuisine that attracts an interesting mix<br />

of office workers and builders who<br />

come here for the garlicky moules<br />

marinières, and French-style fish and<br />

chips. From €15, wine and coffee<br />

included.<br />

SHOP Mi (32 Rue Auguste Comte).<br />

At the heart of the antique quarter,<br />

Mathieu Iquel’s gallery displays the<br />

artist’s tiny tableaux depicting scenes<br />

of local life, painted on plywood.<br />

TIP Lyon Tourist office (Place<br />

Bellecour) is packed with leaflets,<br />

guidebooks and bang-up-to-date info.<br />

<br />

<br />

www.mougins-school.com<br />

INFO<br />

Saint Exupéry<br />

Airport is 25km east<br />

of the centre.<br />

Tram<br />

The Rhônexpress<br />

Express Tram links<br />

the airport and Lyon<br />

Part Dieu train<br />

station in less<br />

than 30 minutes.<br />

Located in the TGV<br />

station, tickets<br />

costing €13 single/<br />

€23 return can be<br />

bought on board, by<br />

ticket machine or<br />

online (rhonexpress.<br />

fr). Allow 10 minutes<br />

from terminal 3.<br />

Taxi<br />

A taxi to the centre<br />

of Lyon from the<br />

airport costs about<br />

€55 during the day<br />

and €70 at night.<br />

The journey takes<br />

around 30 minutes.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The main tourist<br />

offi ce is located at<br />

Place Bellecour,<br />

(0)4 72 77 69 69,<br />

(lyon-france.com).<br />

The glitzy Opera<br />

de Lyon building<br />

VIEUX LYON<br />

Jumbled along a narrow strip of<br />

land hedging the right bank of the<br />

Saône, UNESCO heritage-classed<br />

old Lyon, with its narrow corridor<br />

traboules and medieval<br />

architecture, is full of charm.<br />

SLEEP Hotel des Artistes (8 Rue<br />

Gaspard-André, (0)4 78 42 04 88,<br />

hotel-des-artistes.fr, rooms from €92)<br />

On the old town side of Lyon’s trendy<br />

peninsula, this hip hotel is just opposite<br />

the Théâtre des Célestins. Its breakfast<br />

room was inspired by the work of<br />

legendary poet-playwright Jean<br />

Cocteau, and it remains popular with<br />

artists from both stage and screen,<br />

many of whose photos hang on the<br />

lobby walls.<br />

EAT Café-Épicerie (6 Rue du Bœuf)<br />

Hidden behind the façade of a former<br />

Jesuit college, the menu of this<br />

atmospheric gourmet bistro decked out<br />

with silk tapestries and crystal<br />

chandeliers, changes daily according to<br />

the whim of award-winning chef<br />

Anthony Bonnet. Lunch from €15.<br />

LATER Bar à cocktails Le Florian<br />

(4 Place de la Baleine) is a smaller-scale<br />

replica of Venice’s renowned Caffè<br />

Florian. It serves some of the best<br />

cocktails in town, including Le<br />

Romantique – a stirring blend of tequila,<br />

basil, lemon and agave nectar.<br />

CROIX ROUSSE<br />

To understand the history of the<br />

city explore the atmospheric silkworkers’<br />

Croix-Rousse quarter. The<br />

high-ceilinged canut houses and<br />

narrow, covered traboule passages<br />

are now home to many of the area’s<br />

cool, arty crowd.<br />

CULTURE L’Amphi, Opéra de Lyon<br />

(Place de la Comédie). Soak up some<br />

culture without the bother of dressing<br />

up, at l’Amphi, the opera’s free, midday<br />

showcase of up-and-coming artistes.<br />

EAT Le Cotie Rotie (4 bis rue de<br />

Belfort, (0)4 78 30 10 20). Favoured by<br />

the art set, this cosy bistro serves<br />

everything from andouillette sausage, to<br />

eggs on toast.<br />

TIP The Nuits de Fourviere festival<br />

(5 June-31 July) a huge cultural<br />

celebration, will include eight French<br />

premieres and two world premieres.<br />

From Don Giovanni to Bob Dylan, events<br />

take place in the Fourvière Roman<br />

Theatres – built by Auguste in 15BC.<br />

Prepare for tomorrow’s world with an<br />

<br />

Unique on the Côte d’Azur, Mougins School <br />

<br />

IGCSE and A-Level


u blq fao gva got lys mad<br />

ncl fco vce vie<br />

madrid<br />

spain<br />

46,754,784 +34 20°C<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

Three times daily<br />

scott adams<br />

Photo-España and Edward Hopper are two of<br />

Madrid’s big-draw exhibitions this month<br />

PLAZA SANTA ANA<br />

This is one of Madrid’s most vibrant<br />

and fashionable areas and popular<br />

for a late-night dinner.<br />

SLEEP The Westin Palace (Plaza<br />

de las Cortes 7, 913 608 000,<br />

palacemadrid.com, rooms from €245)<br />

is much more than a hotel; there is a<br />

photography exhibition in the bar and<br />

the Sunday brunch comes with a live<br />

performance of hits from musicals.<br />

EAT Perfect for a quick lunch, Huerta<br />

Uno (Calle Huertas 1, 914 292 067)<br />

serves up summery salads and<br />

delicious tapas.<br />

CULTURE Photo-España (phe.es) is a<br />

huge festival that brings together the<br />

work of 280 photographic and visual<br />

artists from 44 countries. The festival is<br />

comprised of 74 different exhibitions in<br />

venues across Madrid. Visitors can tour<br />

the city and, on the way, see the talent<br />

exhibited. Also on display this month is<br />

20th-century America as portrayed by<br />

realist painter Edward Hopper at the<br />

Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (8 Paseo<br />

de Prado, 12 June-16 September,<br />

museothyssen.org).<br />

LATER Madrid’s trendiest rooftop bar,<br />

The Roof (7th floor, ME Hotel, Plaza<br />

Santa Ana 14), attracts an achingly hip<br />

and well-dressed crowd who come for<br />

the cocktails, music and mingling.<br />

TIP Explore Madrid on two wheels.<br />

Bicycles can be hired from Trixi<br />

(Calle Jardines 12).<br />

INFO<br />

Madrid’s Barajas<br />

Airport is about<br />

20km from the city<br />

centre.<br />

Metro<br />

Terminal 2 is<br />

covered by line 8 of<br />

the metro system<br />

which connects to<br />

various other lines.<br />

Travel time to the<br />

centre is about 40<br />

mins. A single ticket<br />

to the airport costs<br />

€2.50, otherwise<br />

tickets cost €1.50.<br />

Taxi<br />

Use only the<br />

registered white<br />

taxis with a red<br />

stripe on the door.<br />

Travel time to the<br />

centre off-peak is<br />

around 20 mins and<br />

the cost about €30,<br />

which includes the<br />

airport charge of<br />

€5.25.<br />

Bus<br />

Catch bus 200 to<br />

Avenida de America,<br />

which connects with<br />

Metro lines 4, 6, 7<br />

and 9, or the Airport<br />

Express to Atocha<br />

Train Station, €5.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The airport has an<br />

information stand,<br />

or visit the offi ce in<br />

27 Plaza Mayor,<br />

915 88 16 36,<br />

(esmadrid.com).<br />

FLY TO madrid three times daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

PLAZA DE ORIENTE<br />

Surrounded by the royal palace and<br />

other important monuments, this<br />

is the place to sample Madrid’s<br />

rich history.<br />

SLEEP Chic and bright, Hotel Mario<br />

(Calle Campomanes 4, 915 488 548,<br />

room-matehotels.com, rooms from<br />

€149) is just 50m from the Opera<br />

Theatre and Royal Palace and offers<br />

comfortable rooms with standard Wi-Fi<br />

and air-conditioning.<br />

CULTURE Claudio Monteverdi’s opera,<br />

Poppea e Nerone, comes to the stage of<br />

Teatro Real (Plaza de Oriente, teatroreal.com)<br />

this month. The original score<br />

of the opera hasn’t survived, so this<br />

production enlisted one of the leading<br />

experts in Baroque and Renaissance<br />

music, Philippe Boesmans, to adapt the<br />

opera for chamber orchestra.<br />

EAT Get a table on the outdoor terrace<br />

and enjoy the wide range of tapas,<br />

including battered cod and baked red<br />

peppers at Anciano Rey de los Vinos<br />

(Calle Bailen 19, 915 595 332).<br />

TIP It is possible to view the wellpreserved<br />

remains of medieval Madrid<br />

inside the Opera Metro station.<br />

GLORIETA BILBAO<br />

Perfect for younger travellers, this<br />

area has quirky shops, great food<br />

and after-dark fun.<br />

EAT Refuel in style after a shopping<br />

Pre-dinner drinks<br />

at Plaza Santa Ana<br />

trip. Mérimée (Calle Fuencarral 61, 911<br />

166 702) serves up quick, tasty dishes,<br />

such as Galician-style octopus. Cocktail<br />

fans can choose from a long list.<br />

SHOP Cruise the entire length of Calle<br />

Fuencarral, which is full of chi-chi<br />

boutiques. Fornarina at No. 41 is one of<br />

the most notable.<br />

LATER From 10pm jazz lovers cram<br />

into Junco (Plaza Santa Barbara 10) to<br />

enjoy local and international groups<br />

plus high-energy jam sessions.<br />

BARRIO SALAMANCA<br />

The wide, tree-lined streets of this<br />

upmarket area are filled with<br />

boutiques, restaurants and bars.<br />

SLEEP With its chic, contemporary<br />

interior, Hotel Unico (Calle<br />

Claudio Coello 67, 917 810 173,<br />

unicohotelmadrid.com, rooms from<br />

€189) has a sense of calm throughout.<br />

Enjoy a drink in the garden bar or dine<br />

in Ramon Freixa’s award-winning<br />

restaurant.<br />

EAT Oysters, seafood and perfectly<br />

cooked fish are served at Cien Llaves<br />

(Paseo Recoletos 2, 915 775 955). Dine<br />

in the elegant interior or under the<br />

magnolia trees on the garden terrace.<br />

SHOP For designer shops visit Calle<br />

Serrano: Adolfo Dominguez at No.5,<br />

or Purificacion Garcia at No. 28.<br />

LATER Sit on the terrace under the<br />

stars as you enjoy a cocktail and cool<br />

music at Loft 39 (39 Calle Velázquez).<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 87


u blq fao gva got lys mad ncl fco vce vie<br />

newcastle<br />

united kingdom<br />

62,698,362 +44 12°C<br />

british pound (gbp)<br />

Three times daily<br />

paul smith<br />

Take a summer break in Newcastle for culture,<br />

lively restaurants and legendary nightlife<br />

QUAYSIDE<br />

Beneath the city’s iconic bridges,<br />

the Quayside is the perfect<br />

introduction to Newcastle’s culture<br />

and cuisine.<br />

SLEEP Malmaison (104 Quayside,<br />

(0)191 245 5000, malmaison.com,<br />

rooms from €121/£99) offers views<br />

across the River Tyne and Millennium<br />

Bridge. The resident’s bar is ideal for<br />

star-spotting as big-name acts playing<br />

at Newcastle Arena will often check in.<br />

EAT The Broad Chare (25 Broad<br />

Chare, (0)191 211 2144) is a recent<br />

addition to the Quayside and provides a<br />

hearty take on traditional British dishes.<br />

For classic and contemporary<br />

Cantonese menu, try the standout Hei<br />

Hei (46 Dean Street, (0)191 222 1882).<br />

CULTURE A former flour mill turned<br />

contemporary art gallery, BALTIC<br />

(South Shore Road, Gateshead) was<br />

the venue for the 2011 Turner Prize. The<br />

glass and steel spectacle that is The<br />

Sage (also South Shore Road,<br />

Gateshead) is both a conference venue<br />

and stage for world-renowned<br />

musicians. Open-air music festival<br />

Evolution (evolutionfestival.co.uk)<br />

takes place between the two landmarks<br />

on 3-4 June. This year’s headline acts<br />

include Dizzee Rascal and Maximo Park.<br />

Music is also in the air on the north side<br />

of the Quay at Flow – a floating tidemill<br />

filled with music instruments powered<br />

by the River Tyne (flowmill.org).<br />

INFO<br />

Newcastle<br />

International Airport<br />

is 12km north-west<br />

of the city centre.<br />

Train<br />

Metro trains depart<br />

the airport every 12<br />

minutes at peak<br />

times. The journey<br />

to Newcastle takes<br />

25 minutes and<br />

costs €3.80/£3.10.<br />

Taxi<br />

The journey to the<br />

city centre takes 15<br />

to 20 minutes and<br />

costs between<br />

€18/£15 and<br />

€22/£18.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The main tourist<br />

offi ce is at 26-30<br />

Central Arcade,<br />

(0)191 277 8000,<br />

(newcastle<br />

gateshead.com).<br />

LATER Brewdog (16 Dean Street) is a<br />

great place to visit, even if ale isn’t to<br />

your taste. Bar staff will talk you<br />

through their selection of draft beer<br />

(the selection changes daily) and<br />

encourage you to try a free sample or<br />

four. Traditionalists will prefer the more<br />

old-school selection of handpumps at<br />

nearby Crown Posada (31 Side).<br />

TIP Don’t miss the sight of the<br />

Millennium Bridge tilting over to let river<br />

traffic pass underneath. You’ll find tilt<br />

times at gateshead.gov.uk.<br />

GRAINGER MARKET<br />

Built in the early 19th century and<br />

once the largest indoor market in<br />

Europe; come hungry and graze the<br />

great produce while you shop.<br />

EAT Hole-in-the-wall Slice is owned by<br />

Italian chefs and popular with locals –<br />

its pizza slices sell as soon as they leave<br />

the oven. Take time out for the perfect<br />

cup of coffee and a chat at Piccolo and<br />

pick up a batch of fresh macaroons<br />

from French Oven.<br />

SHOP The Marks & Spencer Penny<br />

Bazaar is the oldest and smallest store<br />

operated by the famous UK shopping<br />

brand. Oasis front man Liam<br />

Gallagher’s boutique Pretty Green<br />

(Grainger Street) is opposite the<br />

market’s east entrance.<br />

LATER No. 28 (27-29 Nelson Street) is<br />

a bright spot in Newcastle’s somewhat<br />

lacklustre cocktail scene, and also the<br />

Brewdog offers the<br />

best in craft drafts<br />

starting point for club nights at<br />

Chinatown’s Cosmic Ballroom<br />

(20 Stowell Street).<br />

PINK LANE<br />

Stretching from the city’s railway<br />

station to the medieval town wall,<br />

the Pink Lane area is a favourite<br />

destination for locals looking for a<br />

lunchtime bite or after-work drinks.<br />

SLEEP A Grade II listed Victorian Hotel,<br />

the County Hotel (Neville Street,<br />

(0)871 376 9029, thistle.com, rooms<br />

from €97/£79) is opposite Central<br />

Station and perfectly placed to take<br />

advantage of the region’s local rail<br />

network, the Metro.<br />

EAT Order a cherry-topped milkshake<br />

at the 1950s-themed Stateside Diner<br />

(37 Pink Lane, (0)191 261 7370) or sink<br />

into an antique cinema chair for tapas<br />

at Salsa Cafe (89 Westgate Road,<br />

(0)191 221 1022). Nearby Blackfriars<br />

(Low Friar Street, (0)191 261 9432) is a<br />

popular restaurant and banquet hall in a<br />

13th century Dominican friary.<br />

CULTURE For beat-up charm and a<br />

relaxed crowd, try Jazz Cafe (23-25<br />

Pink Lane). Their lazy Sunday music<br />

jams welcome everyone along, musician<br />

and spectators alike.<br />

LATER Local favourites The Forth<br />

(17 Pink Lane) and The Town Wall<br />

(Pink Lane at Thomas Bewick Square)<br />

satisfy most thirsts and both offer<br />

wholesome pub lunches.<br />

88 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO newcastle three times daily. brusselsairlines.com


u blq fao gva got lys mad ncl fco vce vie<br />

rome<br />

italy<br />

61,016,804 +39 20°C<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

four times daily<br />

Solveig Steinhardt<br />

The Roman Summer festival makes the eternal<br />

city hotter than ever this month<br />

MONTI<br />

The cobblestone alleys provide<br />

respite from the surrounding chaos<br />

and are lined with small shops and<br />

artists’ workshops.<br />

SLEEP Family-run Hotel Artorius<br />

(Via del Boschetto 13, 06 48 21 196,<br />

hotelartorius.com, rooms from €100)<br />

provides a quiet and elegant stay at<br />

reasonable prices.<br />

EAT Aromaticus (Via Urbana 134, 06<br />

48 81 355) is a plant nursery for herbs<br />

and spices with 10 small tables where<br />

they serve suitably healthy, herby food.<br />

SHOP Mencucci (Via Cavour 98) sells<br />

slightly alternative garments. Check out<br />

their shoe outlet, just a few doors down<br />

(Via Cavour 92).<br />

LATER Sweeping views over the<br />

Esquiline and Termini station and a<br />

rooftop swimming pool make Zest<br />

(Via Filippo Turati 171, inside Es Hotel) a<br />

fabulous spot for evening cocktails.<br />

TRIDENTE<br />

The trident of streets departing<br />

from Piazza del Popolo.<br />

SLEEP You’ll get your own set of keys<br />

at Crossing Condotti (Via Mario de’<br />

INFO<br />

The closest airport<br />

is Leonardo Da Vinci<br />

Airport in Fiumicino,<br />

32km from the<br />

city centre.<br />

Train<br />

The Leonardo<br />

Express train to and<br />

from Termini leaves<br />

every 30 minutes<br />

between 6am and<br />

11pm. A single<br />

journey costs<br />

€14 and lasts<br />

30 minutes.<br />

Taxi<br />

There is a fi xed fare<br />

to the airport from<br />

the city. A cab ride<br />

for four passengers<br />

from inside the city<br />

walls to Fiumicino<br />

airport (or vice<br />

versa) costs €40<br />

and takes about 45<br />

minutes. Beware of<br />

unoffi cial minicabs,<br />

and only take the<br />

white taxis.<br />

Tourist info<br />

Call the number 06<br />

06 08 for all tourist<br />

information in six<br />

languages. Tourist<br />

information kiosks<br />

are scattered<br />

around the city<br />

(including one on<br />

track 24 inside<br />

Termini station) and<br />

provide free maps.<br />

Fiori 28, 06 69 92 06 33,<br />

crossingcondotti.com, rooms from<br />

€230), and all the comforts and privacy<br />

of an elegant downtown house –<br />

kitchenette included.<br />

EAT Antica Focacceria San<br />

Francesco (Piazza della Torretta 38,<br />

06 68 30 82 97) recalls an old Sicilian<br />

bar with wrought iron chairs, religious<br />

icons and baskets of oranges, but is<br />

just a few months old. The traditional<br />

Sicilian food incudes fresh pastas and<br />

sweet ricotta-filled treats.<br />

SHOP Cashmirino (Via Belsiana 92/a)<br />

sells kids’ clothing for parents willing<br />

to spend. If it’s your home you want to<br />

dress, Home Textile Emporium (Via<br />

di Pallacorda 14) carries ethnic-inspired<br />

fabrics and textiles.<br />

ANCIENT ROME<br />

Take a leisurely stroll through the<br />

foundations of the city, and a<br />

journey through time.<br />

EAT One of the few restaurants in<br />

Rome to sell food until 2am, 0.75 (Via<br />

dei Cerchi 65, 06 68 75 706) is also<br />

a wine bar. The cuisine is pan-Italian,<br />

and the staff very friendly. For a sweet<br />

snack, try the famous mini pastries<br />

Do you want to stay dry travelling through Europe?<br />

Rent an Avis car.<br />

www.brusselsairlines.com/avis<br />

Rome’s Vittorio Emanuele<br />

(or ‘Wedding Cake’) monument<br />

from Cristalli di Zucchero (Via San<br />

Teodoro 88).<br />

LATER Music means outdoor festivals<br />

this month: Terme di Caracalla<br />

presents Puccini and Verdi before the<br />

enchanting backdrop of Rome’s ancient<br />

public baths (operaroma.it). Villa<br />

Celimontana stages nightly jazz gigs<br />

(Piazza della Navicella, villacelimontana<br />

jazz.it).<br />

TIP Spy through the keyhole of the Seat<br />

of the Knights of Malta for an<br />

unexpected view of St Peter’s dome<br />

(Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta).<br />

TRASTEVERE<br />

Quiet by day and buzzing by night<br />

this is one of Rome’s most<br />

authentic neighbourhoods.<br />

DRINK B>Gallery Café (Piazza<br />

Santa Cecilia 16) is a bright modern<br />

bar, bookstore and cultural centre<br />

hidden away in the less visited part<br />

of Trastevere.<br />

EAT Rome meets Naples at simple<br />

trattoria Alle Fratte di Trastevere<br />

(Via delle Fratte di Trastevere 49, 06 58<br />

35 775) serving up the best of both<br />

worlds, from pasta cacio e pepe to<br />

oven-roast sea bream.


u blq fao gva got lys mad ncl fco vce vie<br />

venice<br />

italy<br />

61,016,804 +39 20°C<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

Twice daily<br />

Roderick Conway Morris<br />

Visit Venice this month and discover how the<br />

‘City of Water’ inspired the artist Gustav Klimt<br />

SAN MARCO & AROUND<br />

In 1902, the ancient Campanile in<br />

Piazza San Marco collapsed. Its<br />

replacement took a decade to build<br />

and this year it celebrates its<br />

centenary.<br />

EAT Antonio’s Acquapazza (San<br />

Marco 3808, 041 277 0688) has a<br />

great position with tables on the<br />

square and offers superior pizzas and<br />

specialities from the chef’s native Amalfi.<br />

CULTURE Klimt, Hoffmann and the<br />

Secession at the Correr Museum<br />

(Piazza San Marco) marks the 150th<br />

anniversary of Gustav Klimt’s birth and<br />

the artist’s fruitful collaboration with the<br />

architect and designer Josef Hoffmann.<br />

It also highlights Klimt’s ‘Gold Period’<br />

inspired by a visit to the San Marco<br />

Basilica in 1899.<br />

SHOP The leading makers of<br />

contemporary Murano glass have<br />

showrooms in and around the Piazza:<br />

Venini is next door to the San Marco<br />

Basilica (Piazzetta Leonicini 314), and<br />

Cenedese (Piazza San Marco 40/41)<br />

and Pauly (Piazza San Marco 77A) are<br />

in the arcades of the square itself. You’ll<br />

find displays of Carlo Moretti colourful<br />

designs off the Piazza at L’isola<br />

(Campo San Moisè 1468) and, at the<br />

boutique of Marina and Susanna Sent<br />

(Ponte San Moisè 2090), an enticing<br />

line-up of classy modern glass jewellery<br />

made on Murano by these talented<br />

sisters. Just around the corner at<br />

INFO<br />

Venice Marco Polo<br />

airport is located<br />

on the northern<br />

edge of the lagoon.<br />

Taxi<br />

A taxi to Piazzale<br />

Roma costs about<br />

€40. A water taxi<br />

costs around €100.<br />

Bus<br />

ACTV no.5 to<br />

Piazzale Roma,<br />

takes about 20<br />

minutes and costs<br />

€5. The ATVO<br />

shuttle takes<br />

15-20 minutes<br />

and costs €7.<br />

Boat<br />

The Alilaguna<br />

shuttle launches run<br />

from the dock 500m<br />

from Arrivals,<br />

6.10am-12.10am to<br />

San Marco; and 8.45<br />

am-6.45pm as far as<br />

Zattere. Tickets cost<br />

€15 (alilaguna.it).<br />

Tourist info<br />

Piazza San Marco<br />

71/F, 041 529 8711<br />

(turismovenezia.it).<br />

Palazzo Corner Spinelli by the<br />

Sant’Angelo vaporetto stop is the<br />

Rubelli showroom (Campiello del<br />

Teatro 3877), a treasure-trove of<br />

gorgeous textiles, from silks and<br />

velvets to linens and cottons.<br />

TIP At €6.50 per trip the vaporetto<br />

(waterbus) can be pricey. More<br />

economical are the tickets for periods<br />

ranging from 12 hours to seven days.<br />

DORSODURO<br />

The name of this district means<br />

literally ‘hard back’ since this<br />

narrow spit of land provided an<br />

unusually firm place to build in the<br />

lagoon’s sandy environment.<br />

SLEEP The tranquil, canal-side<br />

Locanda San Barnaba (Calle del<br />

Tragheto 2785, 041 241 1233, locandasanbarnaba.com,<br />

rooms from €120)<br />

is one of Venice’s most charming and<br />

welcoming hotels.<br />

EAT Close to the Zattere vaporetto<br />

landing is the trattoria Terrazza Casin<br />

dei Nobili (Zattere 924, 041 520 6895),<br />

with a breezy terrace that juts out over<br />

the water. The menu is relatively short,<br />

but includes well-prepared fish and<br />

meat dishes as well as classic pizzas at<br />

reasonable prices.<br />

CULTURE With its rococo décor the<br />

Ca’ Rezzonico (3136 Fondamenta<br />

Rezzonico), Venice’s museum of the<br />

18th century, is one of the city’s more<br />

entertaining cultural spots. It contains<br />

The San Marco bell<br />

tower celebrates its<br />

centenary this year<br />

paintings and frescoes by father and<br />

son painters Giambattista and<br />

Giandomenico Tiepolo.<br />

RIALTO<br />

Venetians descend on Rialto’s<br />

bustling fish, fruit and vegetable<br />

market stalls throughout the week,<br />

repeating a ritual that has been<br />

going on for over a 1000 years.<br />

EAT The freshest produce certainly<br />

doesn’t have far to travel to Vecio<br />

Fritolin (Calle della Regina 2262, 041<br />

522 2881). This atmospheric and<br />

historic locale is where Irina Freguia<br />

makes sure that Venice’s gastronomic<br />

traditions continue. There’s no better<br />

place to sample the succulent delights<br />

of an old-style fritto misto.<br />

GIUDECCA<br />

This long, slender island, only a few<br />

minutes ride away by vaporetto, is<br />

a haven of peace.<br />

EAT The island has some of the<br />

friendliest family trattorias you’ll find.<br />

On the waterfront try Al Redentor<br />

(Campo San Giacomo 205/B, 041 520<br />

6096) and Bar La Palanca<br />

(Fondamenta del Ponte Piccolo 448,<br />

041 528 7719, lunchtimes only).<br />

LATER The Skyline (810 Molino<br />

Stucky, Giudecca), at the Molino Stucky<br />

Hilton Hotel, has superb views over the<br />

city and lagoon.<br />

90 <strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO venice twice daily. brusselsairlines.com


u blq fao gva got lys mad ncl fco vce vie<br />

vienna<br />

AUSTRIA<br />

8,217,280 +43 17°C<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

Three times daily<br />

Anthea Gerrie<br />

Vienna is about art this year. so tour the<br />

museums then relax with fine wine and food<br />

MUSEUMSQUARTIER<br />

The converted Imperial Stables<br />

have become one of the city’s<br />

cultural hubs.<br />

SLEEP Hotel Das Tyrol (Mariahilfer<br />

Strasse 15, (0)1 587 5415, das-tyrol.at,<br />

rooms from €149) is the best located<br />

boutique-lodging in the city, just three<br />

minutes’ stroll from the museums.<br />

EAT Glacis Beisl (Museumplatz 1, (0)1<br />

526 5660) This contemporary take on<br />

a traditional Viennese bistro is tucked<br />

into a garden behind the museums.<br />

CULTURE Not to miss is Klimt: Up<br />

Close and Personal at the Leopold<br />

(Museumplatz) which displays the rare<br />

landscapes and postcards that<br />

Austria’s most famous artist sent to his<br />

muse, Emilie Floge.<br />

INNERE STADT<br />

Within the Ringstrasse lie the city’s<br />

most iconic streets and landmarks.<br />

SLEEP Kaiserin Elisabeth<br />

(Weihburrgasse 3, (0)1 515 260,<br />

kaiserinelisabeth.at, singles from €95,<br />

doubles €166), offers simple elegance,<br />

a very central location and the best<br />

breakfast buffet in town.<br />

INFO<br />

Vienna International<br />

Airport is about<br />

18km south-east<br />

of the city centre.<br />

Bus<br />

Every half hour to<br />

the city centre from<br />

5am to midnight,<br />

€6 for a single, €11<br />

return. The journey<br />

takes around<br />

20 minutes.<br />

Train<br />

The City Airport<br />

Train (CAT) zips into<br />

town in 16 minutes.<br />

Departures are<br />

every 30 minutes<br />

and return tickets<br />

cost €18.<br />

Taxi<br />

A taxi to the centre<br />

costs around €30.<br />

Tourist info<br />

Vienna Tourist Offi ce<br />

is at Albertinaplatz,<br />

just behind the<br />

State Opera House,<br />

(0)1 24 555,<br />

(wien.info).<br />

Tip<br />

Buy train tickets<br />

online and get<br />

a discount.<br />

EAT Albertina Passage (Opernring at<br />

Operngasse, (0)1 512 08 13) is a fancy<br />

new subterranean supper club from the<br />

people who created Vienna’s hottest<br />

underground nightclubs.<br />

CULTURE Art and Wine at the<br />

Kunsthistorichesmuseum (Burgring 5),<br />

from 5 June, is an exhibition that traces<br />

the connection between wine and art.<br />

LATER Passage (Burgring 3) is a<br />

fabulous nightclub in a disused subway,<br />

beneath the Ring, that remains as hot<br />

now as when it opened in 2003.<br />

2ND DISTRICT<br />

The area which epitomises the<br />

Vienna of The Third Man is now<br />

home to some of the city’s hippest<br />

new addresses.<br />

SLEEP Sofitel Vienna Stephensdom<br />

(Praterstrasse 1, (0)1 906 162 000,<br />

sofitel.com, rooms from about €250),<br />

has brought design luxury to a<br />

neighbourhood which has taken its<br />

time re-gentrifying.<br />

CULTURE Ride on the Riesenrad<br />

(Prater 90) in the Prater Park and note,<br />

like Harry Lime, “how little the ordinary<br />

people look down there.” The Danube<br />

Island Festival (Donauinsel, between<br />

READ OUR CITY GUIDES ONLINE<br />

at btheremag.com<br />

The Belvedere is home<br />

to Klimt’s The Kiss<br />

Nordbrucke and Reichsbruke bridges,<br />

22-24 June) is one of Europe’s largest<br />

open-air music festivals.<br />

LATER Le Loft Bar and Lounge at the<br />

Sofitel Stephensdom (Praterstrasse 1)<br />

has become the place for cocktails with<br />

a panoramic view of Vienna.<br />

WIEDEN<br />

With Naschmarkt at its centre this<br />

neighbourhood is home to many of<br />

Vienna’s quirkiest shops and<br />

buzziest bars.<br />

SLEEP Das Triest (Wiedner<br />

Hauptstraße 12, (0)1 589 180, dastriest.<br />

at, rooms from €225) is Vienna’s first<br />

boutique hotel. Stylishly designed in<br />

1996 by Terence Conran, its cachet<br />

remains undisputed.<br />

EAT Cafe Museum (Operngasse 7,<br />

(0)1 24 100 620) is a famous old haunt<br />

beautifully restored – a great place for<br />

lunch with the locals.<br />

CULTURE The Upper Belvedere<br />

(Prinz-Eugen-Straße 27) houses worldfamous<br />

The Kiss by Gustav Klimt.<br />

TIP Ride the tram up the hill to the<br />

Upper Belvedere, then walk back<br />

through the beautiful terraced gardens<br />

and the Lower Belvedere.


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airline news<br />

Keep up to date with all the latest news and information from<br />

93 Airline news | 95 In partnership | 98 b.foundation | 100 Choose how you fly | 102 Check-in<br />

103 Safety | 104 Comfort | 105 Fleet | 106 Miles & More | 108 Maps | 111 Airport info | 112 Menu<br />

A new way to fly<br />

Brussels Airlines’ long haul fl eet undergoes a premium makeover in <strong>2012</strong><br />

Flying to Brussels Airlines’ long-haul destinations is now more<br />

comfortable than ever, with new cabins that offer the highest<br />

levels of quality and relaxation. We already have three long-haul<br />

aircraft offering this new cabin, and are gradually refurbishing the<br />

entire long-haul fleet.<br />

Business Class Passengers will enjoy a premium fully horizontal<br />

flatbed of nearly 2m. Equipped with a pneumatic cushion allowing<br />

passengers to choose a ‘firm’ or a ‘soft’ setting, the flatbed also offers<br />

relaxing massage options and LED mood lighting, as well as plenty of<br />

storage space. Moreover, the unique cabin configuration means that of<br />

the 30 seats, 24 have direct aisle access, while 10 are ‘king seats’ with<br />

no adjacent seat.<br />

we like hearing from you!<br />

Follow @FlyingBrussels on Twitter, or join facebook.com/brusselsairlines<br />

Economy Class Passengers will each have a personal TV with an 8.9”<br />

touchscreen monitor equipped with a USB port, and will travel in a stylish,<br />

ergonomic seat offering generous leg-room (83cm) and seat comfort.<br />

Revolutionary inflight entertainment system The new RAVE inflight<br />

entertainment technology will be available in six languages in both<br />

Business and Economy class. The on-demand system contains over<br />

100 hours of entertainment including 40 movies, 32 TV programmes,<br />

useful information and games. Each Business Class screen is 15.3” and<br />

offers modern tablet-style ‘touch and scroll’ navigation. Passengers<br />

can also connect personal devices such as iPods to the screen. An<br />

additional feature is the ‘Niceview’ flight information programme with<br />

an animated world map displaying the flight course from various<br />

angles. Information on connecting flights will also be available.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 93


94<br />

Business-Class<br />

passengers can<br />

choose to enjoy<br />

a premium ‘king<br />

seat’ which offers<br />

plenty of privacy<br />

airline news<br />

Une nouvelle expérience de vol<br />

En <strong>2012</strong>, la fl otte long-courrier de Brussels Airlines se métamorphose<br />

Les vols long-courriers de Brussels Airlines sont plus confortables que<br />

jamais, avec de nouvelles cabines prêtes à vous offrir les standards les plus<br />

élevés de qualité et de bien-être. Trois de nos appareils qui assurent ces<br />

liaisons en sont déjà équipés et l’ensemble de notre flotte long-courrier sera<br />

progressivement modernisée.<br />

Classe Business Les passagers bénéficieront dorénavant d’un nouveau et luxueux<br />

siège convertible en lit tout à fait plat, de presque 2 m de long. Ce siège est en<br />

outre équipé d’un système de coussins pneumatiques permettant aux passagers<br />

de régler la fermeté de leur couchage, ainsi que d’une fonction de massage. Un<br />

système individuel d’éclairage d’ambiance LED complète un sentiment de confort<br />

exceptionnel. Une ingénieuse configuration de la cabine permet en outre à 24 des<br />

30 sièges d’avoir un accès direct au couloir. De plus, 10 passagers peuvent dès à<br />

présent voyager dans des sièges « single », sans voisin à côté d’eux.<br />

Classe Economy Pour un vol encore plus agréable, chaque personne disposera<br />

désormais d’une TV individuelle avec un écran tactile de 22,6 cm et un port USB.<br />

Gageons que les passagers apprécieront également les nouveaux sièges au design<br />

premium et au confort ergonomique, offrant plus d’espace pour les jambes (83<br />

cm), qui leur permettront une détente maximale pendant le vol.<br />

Système révolutionnaire de divertissement en vol La nouvelle technologie de<br />

divertissement individuel RAVE sera disponible en 6 langues, tant en Classe<br />

Business qu’en Classe Economy. Ce système proposant les programmes audiovidéo<br />

à la demande contient plus de 100 heures de divertissement, dont 40 films,<br />

32 programmes télé, des jeux, ainsi que des informations utiles pour votre voyage.<br />

L’impressionnant écran individuel des sièges en Classe Business ne mesure pas<br />

moins de 38,9 cm, et à l’instar d’une tablette électronique, s’actionne du bout des<br />

doigts à l’aide d’une application déroulante, ou via la commande à distance<br />

intégrée dans le siège. Ceux qui le souhaitent peuvent même brancher leur propre<br />

équipement, tel un iPod, et visionner leurs propres films sur l’écran du siège. Enfin,<br />

« Niceview », permet aux passagers de suivre la progression de leur vol, et propose<br />

des vues en trois dimensions des zones survolées. Des informations sur les vols en<br />

connexion sont également disponibles.<br />

Scan this code with your smartphone to find<br />

out more about the new onboard experience,<br />

or visit brusselsairlines.com/experience<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Scannez ce code avec votre smartphone pour<br />

découvrir notre nouvelle expérience à bord ou<br />

visitez brusselsairlines.com/experience<br />

Passengers in Economy<br />

Class will each have a<br />

personal touchscreen TV<br />

Vliegen in nieuwe stijl<br />

Langeafstandsvloot van Brussels Airlines krijgt<br />

hoogstaande make-over in <strong>2012</strong><br />

Langeafstandsvluchten met Brussels Airlines worden<br />

nu nog aangenamer. Daar zorgen de nieuwe cabines<br />

voor, die garant staan voor hoogstaande kwaliteit en<br />

ontspanning. Er zijn al drie nieuw ingerichte toestellen, en de<br />

gehele langeafstandsvloot wordt geleidelijk aan vernieuwd.<br />

Business class Businesspassagiers kunnen genieten van<br />

volledig horizontale flatbeds van bijna 2 m. De flat-beds zijn<br />

voorzien van een luchtkussen dat op “stevig” of “zacht”<br />

kan worden ingesteld. Ze bieden ook mogelijkheden voor<br />

een rustgevende massage en led-sfeerverlichting, én er<br />

is heel wat opbergruimte. Dankzij de unieke indeling van<br />

de cabine hebben 24 van de 30 zetels directe toegang tot<br />

het gangpad. Er zijn ook 10 “single seats”, of plaatsen zonder<br />

zetel ernaast.<br />

Economy class Elke economypassagier beschikt over een<br />

persoonlijke tv met een aanraakscherm van 8,9” en een<br />

USB-poort. De zetels zijn het summum van stijl en<br />

ergonomie, voor meer beenruimte (83 cm) en zitcomfort.<br />

Baanbrekend entertainmentsysteem De nieuwe RAVE<br />

inflight-entertainmenttechnologie is beschikbaar in zes<br />

talen, zowel in Business als in Economy class. Het<br />

on-demandsysteem bevat meer dan 100 uur entertainment,<br />

met 40 films, 32 tv-programma’s, nuttige informatie en<br />

games. In Business class meet het individuele beeldscherm<br />

15,3”. De navigatie gebeurt via “touch and scroll”, zoals bij<br />

een laptop. Passagiers kunnen zelfs hun eigen toestellen<br />

zoals een iPod erop aansluiten. Een leuke optie is het<br />

“Niceview”-programma met vluchtinformatie, dat<br />

3D-beelden vanuit verschillende camerahoeken toont. Er<br />

wordt ook informatie over aansluitende vluchten verschaft.<br />

Scan deze code in met je smartphone en ontdek<br />

onze nieuwe ervaring aan boord of bezoek<br />

brusselsairlines.com/experience


in partnership<br />

all<br />

tickets<br />

sold out!<br />

tous les billets se<br />

sont vendus!<br />

ALLE TICKETS<br />

UITVERKOCHT!<br />

Musique et magie<br />

Tomorrowland, élu « meilleur événement musical du monde »<br />

en 2011, revient en Belgique<br />

De retour sur la scène belge pour sa 8ème édition, Tomorrowland<br />

plongera les visiteurs durant trois jours entiers dans un monde<br />

extraordinaire et fantastique. Un décor féérique, une gigantesque<br />

vallée de danse, des chefs étoilés, de conviviales zones de repas, des<br />

cocktails rafraîchissants, des performances spectaculaires, des feux<br />

d’artifice étincelants, les plus beaux podiums et les meilleurs DJ du<br />

monde garantiront aux festivaliers une expérience envoûtante et inédite.<br />

Plus de 350 artistes sont programmés à l’affiche de ce festival dont<br />

David Guetta, Steve Aoki, Swedish House Mafia, Dimitri Vegas & Like<br />

Mike, Avicii, Skrillex, Fatboy Slim, Calvin Harris, Martin Solveig, Yves V<br />

ainsi que John Digweed. Cette année, les organisateurs ont investi<br />

davantage dans le design : chaque détail a été pensé pour stimuler<br />

l’imagination des visiteurs. Il en résulte une complète métamorphose du<br />

domaine en un lieu surréaliste où plus de 180.000 participants vivront le<br />

plus beau week-end de festival de l’été.<br />

Tomorrowland <strong>2012</strong> aurai lieu du 27 au 29 juillet à Boom, Belgique. Pour de<br />

plus amples informations, veuillez visiter le site tomorrowland.be ou dreamville.be<br />

Music and magic<br />

Voted Best Music Event Worldwide<br />

in 2011, Tomorrowland returns<br />

to Belgium<br />

Celebrating its eighth year in Belgium,<br />

Tomorrowland will immerse visitors<br />

in an outlandish world of magical<br />

fantasy for three whole days. Spectacular<br />

acts, the best DJs, a gigantic ‘dance valley’,<br />

celebrity chefs, fresh cocktails, fairytale<br />

décor, cosy chill-out areas and stunning<br />

fireworks will all combine to ensure a<br />

fantastic event.<br />

The impressive festival programme will be<br />

lining up more than 350 artists including:<br />

David Guetta, Fatboy Slim, Calvin Harris,<br />

Steve Aoki, Swedish House Mafia, Dimitri<br />

Vegas & Like Mike, Avicii, Skrillex, Martin<br />

Solveig, Yves V and John Digweed.<br />

Every detail has been designed to fire the<br />

imagination, and no effort has been spared<br />

in the fantastical design process. The result<br />

is a magical transformation of the recreation<br />

area into a magnificently surreal<br />

environment where 180,000 dance music<br />

lovers will experience the summer’s most<br />

exciting weekend in Belgium.<br />

Tomorrowland <strong>2012</strong> will take place from<br />

27-29 July in Boom, Belgium. For more info,<br />

please visit tomorrowland.be or dreamville.be<br />

Muziek en magie<br />

Tomorrowland, in 2011 uitgeroepen tot ‘Best Music Event<br />

Worldwide’, komt opnieuw naar België<br />

T<br />

omorrowland, dat voor het achtste jaar naar België komt,<br />

dompelt zijn bezoekers drie dagen lang onder in een vreemde,<br />

magische fantasiewereld. Een sprookjesdecor, een<br />

gigantische dansvallei, beroemde chef-koks, gezellige chill-outruimtes,<br />

verse cocktails, spectaculaire acts, schitterend vuurwerk en de<br />

beste podia en dj’s ter wereld zorgen samen voor een betoverende<br />

ervaring zonder weerga.<br />

Op het programma van het festival staan meer dan 350 artiesten,<br />

onder wie David Guetta, Steve Aoki, Swedish House Mafia, Dimitri<br />

Vegas & Like Mike, Avicii, Skrillex, Fatboy Slim, Calvin Harris, Martin<br />

Solveig, Yves V en John Digweed. Elk detail is ontworpen om de<br />

verbeelding van de bezoekers te prikkelen en tijdens het ontwerpproces<br />

werden kosten noch moeite gespaard. Het resultaat is een complete<br />

transformatie van het recreatiegebied in een surrealistische omgeving,<br />

waar 180.000 mensen het mooiste weekend van de zomer zullen beleven.<br />

Tomorrowland <strong>2012</strong> vindt plaats van 27 t/m 29 juli in Boom (België).<br />

Kijk voor meer informatie op tomorrowland.be of dreamville.be<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 95


96<br />

in partnership<br />

Around the world in three days<br />

Couleur Café, Brussels’ most eclectic festival, offers a cultural mix that’s hard to resist<br />

Couleur Café is a music festival<br />

dedicated to all types of urban music<br />

across the world including R&B, hiphop,<br />

dub-step, afro, soul, and reggae. Partygoers<br />

can expect performances from the likes<br />

of Stephen Marley, Sean Paul, Erykah Badu,<br />

Tinariwen and Buena Vista Social Club, among<br />

many others. Held at Tour & Taxis over three<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

summer nights, there will be four musical stages<br />

as well as a high-brow art exhibition, 50 worldkitchen<br />

stands and other festive activities.<br />

Over 75,000 visitors are expected to gather<br />

at what has become Brussels’ key summer<br />

music festival. The event’s cultural mix is an<br />

apt reflection of the city it calls home, and<br />

promises to transport you around the world.<br />

Erykah Badu<br />

Un tour du monde en 3 jours<br />

Couleur Café, le festival le plus éclectique de Bruxelles, offre un métissage<br />

culturel auquel il est diffi cile de résister<br />

Couleur Café est un festival de musiques urbaines du monde, programmant de<br />

grands noms de la scène R&B, hip-hop, dub-step, afro, soul et reggae. Au<br />

rythme des concerts de cette saison, les festivaliers pourront découvrir des<br />

stars comme Stephen Marley, Sean Paul, Erykah Badu, Tinariwen ou Buena Vista<br />

Social Club, pour ne citer que ceux-là. Durant trois soirées estivales, quatre podiums<br />

seront implantés sur le site de Tour & Taxis ainsi qu’une superbe exposition d’art, 50<br />

stands de cuisine du monde et d’autres activités festives.<br />

Plus de 75.000 visiteurs sont attendus à l’occasion de ce rassemblement devenu<br />

au fil du temps un rendez-vous incontournable des festivals bruxellois. La mixité<br />

culturelle de cet événement reflète en outre parfaitement l’esprit de la ville qui<br />

l’héberge. Et réellement, il promet de vous transporter aux quatre coins de la planète.<br />

Couleur Café offre également une option camping sur le site du festival, en plein cœur<br />

de Bruxelles. Le Camping Zen, qui affiche complet depuis son ouverture il y a quatre<br />

ans, est une oasis de calme où l’on retrouve les mêmes valeurs qui règnent au festival.<br />

Couleur Café se déroule du 29 juin au 1er juillet à Tour & Taxis. Pour des tickets en<br />

prévente et plus d’information, veuillez vous rendre sur couleurcafe.be<br />

Couleur Café also offers the option of<br />

staying on-site at the festival at Camping Zen.<br />

Taking on the same spirit as the festival,<br />

Camping Zen has sold out quickly each year<br />

since it began four years ago.<br />

Couleur Café will take place from 29 June-1 July<br />

at Tour & Taxis. For presale tickets and further<br />

information, please visit couleurcafe.be<br />

De wereld rond in<br />

drie dagen<br />

Couleur Café, Brussels meest eclectische festival,<br />

biedt een culturele mix die moeilijk te weerstaan is<br />

Couleur Café is een muziekfestival dat gericht is<br />

op alle vormen van urban music uit de hele<br />

wereld, zoals R&B, hiphop, dubstep, afro, soul en<br />

reggae. Feestgangers kunnen een heleboel optredens<br />

verwachten van onder anderen Stephen Marley, Sean Paul,<br />

Erykah Badu, Tinariwen en Buena Vista Social Club. Het<br />

festival, dat gedurende drie zomeravonden in Tour & Taxis<br />

wordt gehouden, omvat vier muziekpodia, een interessante<br />

kunsttentoonstelling, vijftig kraampjes met gerechten uit<br />

de hele wereld en andere feestelijke activiteiten.<br />

Naar verwachting zal Couleur Café, dat is uitgegroeid<br />

tot Brussels belangrijkste muziekfestival in de zomer,<br />

meer dan 75.000 bezoekers trekken. De culturele mix<br />

van het festival is een treffende afspiegeling van de stad<br />

waar het plaatsvindt en houdt de belofte in van een<br />

muzikale wereldreis.<br />

Couleur Café biedt bezoekers ook de unieke<br />

mogelijkheid om te kamperen op het festivalterrein in<br />

het hartje van de stad. Op Camping Zen heerst dezelfde<br />

stemming als op het festival en sinds de start vier jaar<br />

geleden was hij steeds uitverkocht.<br />

Couleur Café vindt plaats van 29 juni t/m 1 juli in Tour &<br />

Taxis. Kijk voor tickets in de voorverkoop en meer informatie<br />

op couleurcafe.be<br />

BENJAMIN STRUELENS


Course à pied<br />

Participez au Marathon de Bruxelles et profi tez d’un circuit<br />

touristique à travers la ville<br />

V<br />

oici une occasion unique de visiter la capitale de la Belgique<br />

tout en maintenant la forme. Enfilez vos chaussures de<br />

course et inscrivez-vous au Brussels Marathon <strong>2012</strong> !<br />

Les marathoniens sont invités à suivre un parcours d’un grand<br />

intérêt touristique, au départ du Parc du Cinquantenaire. Ils<br />

passeront par des lieux emblématiques comme la Place Schuman,<br />

le Palais Royal et le Palais de Justice. Le circuit traversera également<br />

des espaces verts, avec une boucle dans le Bois de la Cambre, la<br />

Forêt de Soignes et le Parc de Tervuren, avant de revenir au Parc<br />

du Cinquantenaire, d’où la course s’effectuera en droite ligne<br />

jusqu’à l’arrivée prévue sur la somptueuse Grand-Place.<br />

Si l’idée de courir un marathon vous paraît insurmontable,<br />

rabattez-vous alors sur le Brussels Half Marathon ou le walkathon<br />

de 4km pour hommes et pour femmes (Mini-Marathon & Knack<br />

Weekend Ladies Run). Et avec la Chiquita Kids Run, même les<br />

enfants pourront partir du bon pied !<br />

Ces dernières années, plus de 10.000 personnes ont pris<br />

part annuellement à cet événement, dont environ un quart<br />

venues de l’étranger.<br />

Le Brussels Marathon se déroule le 7 octobre <strong>2012</strong>. Pour de plus<br />

amples informations et pour toute inscription, veuillez aller sur<br />

brusselsmarathon.be<br />

PROMO<br />

Participants receive 25% off b.light economy<br />

and b.flex economy+ fares* Book from now<br />

until 7 October <strong>2012</strong>; Travel 1-15 October <strong>2012</strong>.<br />

Promo code: MARATHON<br />

A running tour<br />

Join the Brussels Marathon on its route through the city’s tourist hot spots<br />

Here’s a unique way to visit the<br />

Belgian capital city and stay healthy<br />

at the same time: pull on your<br />

running shoes and sign up for the <strong>2012</strong><br />

Brussels Marathon!<br />

Runners will follow a popular tourist<br />

route through the city, starting at<br />

Cinquantenaire Park. They will then run past<br />

landmarks such as the Schuman Square,<br />

the Royal Palace and the Palace ofJustice.<br />

The route will also wind through the city’s<br />

green spaces, with a loop through the Bois<br />

de la Cambre, Forêt de Soignes and the<br />

Tervuren Park, before returning to the<br />

Cinquantenaire Park from where it is a<br />

Sightseeing voor<br />

hardlopers<br />

straight run to the finish line at the<br />

atmospheric Grand Place.<br />

If the thought of running a marathon is<br />

overwhelming, there’s also the Brussels<br />

Half Marathon or the 4km Walkathon for<br />

men and women (Mini-Marathon & Knack<br />

Weekend Ladies Run). Children can put their<br />

best foot forward in the Chiquita Kids Run.<br />

Over the last few years, more than<br />

10,000 people have taken part annually,<br />

with about a quarter of the participants<br />

coming from abroad.<br />

Brussels Marathon will take place on 7<br />

October <strong>2012</strong>. For further information and to<br />

register, please visit brusselsmarathon.be<br />

Het parcours van de Brussels Marathon leidt je langs de<br />

toeristische trekpleisters van de stad<br />

T<br />

rek je hardloopschoenen aan en schrijf je in voor de Brussels<br />

Marathon <strong>2012</strong>. Dat is een unieke manier om de Belgische hoofdstad<br />

te bezoeken en tegelijkertijd aan je conditie te werken!<br />

De lopers volgen een populaire toeristische route door de stad die in het<br />

Jubelpark begint. Vervolgens komen ze langs markante plekken als het<br />

Schumanplein, het Koninklijk Paleis en het Justitiepaleis. Het parcours doet<br />

ook de groene longen van de stad aan door een bocht te maken door het<br />

Terkamerenbos, het Zoniënwoud en het Park van Tervuren. Daarna wordt<br />

weer koers gezet naar het Jubelpark, vanwaar in een rechte lijn naar de<br />

eindstreep op de sfeervolle Grote Markt wordt afgestevend.<br />

Als je het een afschrikwekkende gedachte vindt om een marathon te<br />

moeten lopen, kun je ook de Brussels Half Marathon of de 4 km lange<br />

wandeltocht voor mannen en vrouwen (Mini-Marathon en Knack Weekend<br />

Ladies Run) overwegen. Zelfs de kleintjes kunnen hun beste beentje<br />

voorzetten in de Chiquita Kids Run.<br />

De laatste jaren hebben telkens meer dan 10.000 mensen aan het<br />

evenement deelgenomen. Ongeveer een kwart van de deelnemers was<br />

afkomstig uit het buitenland.<br />

De Brussels Marathon wordt gehouden op 7 oktober <strong>2012</strong>. Meer informatie en<br />

het inschrijvingsformulier zijn te vinden op brusselsmarathon.be<br />

Les participants reçoivent une remise de 25% sur leurs vols<br />

b.light economy et b.flex economy+ * Réservez dès à présent<br />

jusqu’au 7 octobre <strong>2012</strong> pour un voyage entre le 1er et le 15<br />

octobre <strong>2012</strong>. Code promo : MARATHON<br />

Deelnemers krijgen 25% korting op de b.light economy<br />

en b.flex economy+ tarieven* Boeken tussen nu en 7<br />

oktober <strong>2012</strong>, reizen tussen 1 en 15 oktober <strong>2012</strong>.<br />

Actiecode: MARATHON<br />

*Discount only applicable for return flights from Europe to Brussels, on Brussels Airlines operated flights, not applicable on airport taxes and other surcharges, and cannot be combined with other discounts. *Remise valable exclusivement sur les vols<br />

aller-retour, opérés par Brussels Airlines, à partir de tous les pays européens vers Bruxelles. Non valable sur les taxes d’aéroport et autres surcharges, et non cumulable avec d’autres réductions. *Korting alleen van toepassing op retourvluchten vanuit<br />

Europa naar Brussel, op vluchten die door Brussels Airlines worden verzorgd. Niet van toepassing op luchthavenbelastingen en andere toeslagen. Niet met andere kortingen te combineren.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 97


98<br />

b.foundation<br />

Improving access to cancer treatment<br />

A special spotlight on a Brussels Airlines b.foundation partner, INCTR<br />

Cancer is a leading cause of death<br />

worldwide; it is predicted that by 2030,<br />

11 million deaths will be cancer-related,<br />

with 70% of them occurring in low- and middleincome<br />

countries.<br />

In 1998, the non-governmental organisation<br />

International Network for Cancer Treatment<br />

and Research (INCTR) was created to address<br />

this increasing burden in developing countries.<br />

Working together with local colleagues, the<br />

Belgium-based NGO aims to build capacity for<br />

cancer prevention, early detection, diagnosis,<br />

treatment and palliative care. To improve<br />

access to care, INCTR has developed protocols<br />

to standardise treatment approaches that are<br />

Améliorer l’accès aux<br />

traitements du cancer<br />

Coup de projecteur sur l’INCTR, partenaire de b.foundation<br />

de Brussels Airlines<br />

Le cancer est la première cause de mortalité dans le monde ; on<br />

prévoit que d’ici 2030, 11 millions de décès seront liés au cancer,<br />

et de ce nombre, 70% surviendront dans les pays à faibles et<br />

moyens revenus.<br />

En 1998, l’organisation non gouvernementale International Network<br />

for Cancer Treatment and Research (INCTR) fut créée pour contrer ce<br />

fardeau croissant dans les pays en développement. En collaboration<br />

avec des collègues locaux, l’ONG basée en Belgique aide au<br />

renforcement des capacités de prévention du cancer, de détection<br />

précoce, de diagnostic, de traitement et de mise en place de soins<br />

palliatifs. En vue d’améliorer l’accès aux soins, l’INCTR a développé des<br />

protocoles visant à normaliser des méthodes de traitements,<br />

réalisables et abordables dans les régions concernées.<br />

Et ce projet fonctionne : le traitement de plus de 500 enfants souffrant<br />

du Lymphome de Burkitt, dans sept pays africains, en est un exemple<br />

récent. Avant le démarrage du programme, le taux de survie était<br />

estimé à moins de 10% ; un chiffre qui aujourd’hui se monte à 68%.<br />

Le Dr. Martin Ogwang, du St. Mary’s Hospital Lacor en Ouganda, loue<br />

l’action de l’ONG : « Dans le nord de l’Ouganda, la majorité de la population<br />

vit avec moins d’un dollar par jour et ne peut se permettre le déplacement<br />

jusqu’aux centres d’oncologie, lointains et coûteux. Grâce à l’initiative<br />

de l’INCTR, nous sommes en mesure de fournir gratuitement des soins<br />

de qualité à tous nos patients atteints du Lymphome de Burkitt. »<br />

Pour de plus amples informations, veuillez aller sur inctr.org<br />

Scan this code with your smartphone to find<br />

out more about b.foundation, or visit<br />

brusselsairlines.com/CSR<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

feasible and affordable in local settings. A<br />

recent success is the treatment of over 500<br />

children with Burkitt lymphoma in seven African<br />

countries. Prior to the start of this project, the<br />

survival rate was estimated to be less than<br />

10%; now, that figure has climbed to 68%.<br />

Dr Martin Ogwang, of St Mary’s hospital<br />

Lacor in Uganda, praises the NGO’s work: “In<br />

northern Uganda, the majority of the people live<br />

on less than a dollar a day and cannot afford to<br />

travel to faraway and costly oncology centres.<br />

Thanks to the INCTR project, we are able to<br />

provide a high-quality standard of care for free<br />

to all our Burkitt lymphoma patients.”<br />

For more information, please visit inctr.org<br />

Pour en savoir plus sur b.foundation, scannez ce<br />

code avec votre smartphone ou surfez sur<br />

brusselsairlines.com/CSR<br />

De behandeling van kanker<br />

beter toegankelijk maken<br />

In de kijker: INCTR, een van de b.foundation-partners van<br />

Brussels Airlines<br />

Kanker is wereldwijd een belangrijke doodsoorzaak: in 2030<br />

zullen naar schatting 11 miljoen sterfgevallen, waarvan 70%<br />

in landen met lage en gemiddelde inkomens, verband<br />

houden met kanker.<br />

In 1998 werd de non-gouvernementele organisatie International<br />

Network for Cancer Treatment and Research (INCTR) opgericht om<br />

deze toenemende last in ontwikkelingslanden aan te pakken. In<br />

samenwerking met lokale collega’s wil deze ngo, die in België is<br />

gevestigd, mogelijkheden voor preventie, vroege detectie, diagnose,<br />

behandeling en palliatieve zorg in geval van kanker ontwikkelen. Om de<br />

toegankelijkheid van de zorg te verbeteren, heeft INCTR protocollen<br />

opgesteld om te komen tot standaardbehandelmethoden die haalbaar<br />

en betaalbaar zijn in lokale situaties.<br />

Een recent succes is de behandeling van meer dan vijfhonderd<br />

kinderen met Burkittlymfoom in zeven Afrikaanse landen. Vóór de start<br />

van dit project werd het overlevingspercentage op minder dan 10%<br />

geraamd. Nu is dat cijfer gestegen tot 68%.<br />

Dr. Martin Ogwang van het St. Mary’s Hospital Lacor in Oeganda<br />

prijst het werk van de ngo: “In Noord-Oeganda moeten de meeste<br />

mensen rondkomen van minder dan één dollar per dag. Zij kunnen het<br />

zich niet veroorloven om naar verafgelegen en dure oncologiecentra te<br />

reizen. Dankzij het INCTR-project kunnen we gratis zorg van een hoge<br />

kwaliteitsstandaard bieden aan al onze patiënten met Burkittlymfoom.”<br />

Ga voor meer informatie naar inctr.org<br />

Scan deze code met uw smartphone om meer te<br />

vernemen over b.foundation, of surf naar<br />

brusselsairlines.com/CSR


Bonsoir Clara<br />

Located in the heart of Brussels, Bonsoir Clara<br />

offers a minimalist interior using striking decoration. On two<br />

walls are stained-glass panels throwing off brilliant colours<br />

and on another wall hangs a beautiful patchwork tapestry.<br />

The menu offers delicacies such as a duo of panfried<br />

baby soles, served with an assortment of hot vegetables<br />

or Supreme of “coucou de Malines” served with<br />

caramelized endives and a duo of vegetable mousse.<br />

.<br />

You’ll be seduced as much by the bold<br />

interior as the marvellous cuisine!<br />

22-26 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, Belgium<br />

Tel: +32 2502 0990 | www.bonsoirclara.com<br />

“Regaining my hair is one of the best decisions I’ve made,<br />

I look and feel younger again; Thanks BHR Clinic!”<br />

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Located opposite the stock exchange in downtown<br />

Brussels, La Kasbah attracts a trendy crowd who come<br />

to soak up the colourful atmosphere while dining on<br />

mouth-watering main courses of couscous, brochettes<br />

or tajines and tasty desserts of sorbet, baklava or<br />

Morroccan pastries. Quite simply, they’re all delicious.<br />

20 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, Belgium<br />

Tel: +32 2 522 4026 | www.lakasbahresto.com<br />

La Kasbah is open 7 days a week from 6pm until 1am.<br />

A e<br />

A e<br />

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Tel: 0032 23 44 71 78<br />

WWW.BHRCLINIC.COM<br />

Email: medical@bhrclinic.com<br />

12a Avenue Brugmann, Brussels 1060 Belgium


†PRICES QUOTED ARE FOR A RETURN TICKET IN B.LIGHT ECONOMY FROM OR TO BRUSSELS, ALL TAXES AND FEES INCLUDED, IF BOOKED ON BRUSSELSAIRLINES.COM. TICKETS ARE NOT CHANGEABLE, NOR REFUNDABLE. PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT PRIOR NOTICE<br />

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<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

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Miles & More HON Circle and Star Alliance Gold members only (7) B-pier, remote positions (8) Free for Miles & More Frequent<br />

Traveller and Star Alliance Gold members travelling to Brussels, Geneva, Frankfurt, Munich and Vienna (9) Change to an earlier<br />

flight only permitted at the airport on the day of departure (10) If same fare category or lower is no longer available, then a<br />

fare differential is charged. Fully flexible fare category available.


BUSINESS CLASS<br />

■ Business Class return fares<br />

■ Fully refundable if cancelled prior to departure<br />

■ Yes<br />

■ 40 minutes before departure 1<br />

■ 2 pieces of 32kgs each checked + total 16kgs hand<br />

luggage (max 2 pieces), ski equipment for free 3<br />

■<br />

Athens, Berlin Tegel 5 , Birmingham, Bristol,<br />

Brussels, Budapest, Frankfurt, Geneva, Hamburg,<br />

Lisbon, London, Manchester, Milan Linate/<br />

Malpensa 4a , Moscow, Newcastle, Oslo, Paris CDG 6 ,<br />

Porto, Prague, Rome, Venice, Vienna and Warsaw<br />

■ Dedicated b.business check-in at Brussels<br />

■ Guaranteed middle seat free<br />

■ Fre e<br />

■ Gourmet dining service, champagne<br />

■ Fre e<br />

■ 2,000 status miles per flight<br />

■ Fre e<br />

■ Free subject to availability<br />

The class<br />

that puts<br />

you first<br />

Scan this code with your smartphone to visit<br />

brusselsairlines.com for the latest promotions, flight<br />

updates and other useful information related to your trip.<br />

Mybrusselsairlines<br />

Keep up to date with<br />

our exclusive offers<br />

and product updates.<br />

sign up online at<br />

brusselsairlines.com<br />

PRODUCT OPTIONS<br />

Premium Business Class service for<br />

top segment business travellers<br />

Dedicated product for corporate<br />

travellers, offering best value for<br />

money (flexibility, time saving<br />

and onboard service)<br />

Our low fare leisure product. Fares starting<br />

from €99* return, taxes included<br />

Discover<br />

your<br />

check-in<br />

options on<br />

page 102<br />

Visitez brusselsairlines.com en scannant ce code avec<br />

votre smartphone et découvrez nos dernières promotions<br />

ainsi que des informations utiles pour votre voyage.<br />

Scan deze code met uw smartphone om brusselsairlines.com<br />

te bezoeken en blijf op de hoogte van onze laatste promoties,<br />

vlucht-updates en andere nuttige informatie betreffende uw trip.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 101


102<br />

check-in<br />

Checking in for your Brussels Airlines<br />

flight is simple and hassle-free<br />

S’enregistrer sur son vol<br />

Brussels Airlines n’a jamais été<br />

aussi simple, sûr et efficace<br />

Enregistrement en ligne Gagnez du temps à l’aéroport<br />

■ Enregistrez-vous depuis Internet sur checkin.brusselsairlines.com. N’oubliez pas<br />

d’imprimer votre carte d’embarquement au format pdf.<br />

■ Une fois à l’aéroport, rendez-vous à l’un des points Bagages Drop Off de Brussels Airlines<br />

pour y déposer vos bagages. Dirigez-vous ensuite directement vers la porte d’embarquement.<br />

■ Disponible entre 24 heures et 1 heure avant le départ de votre vol.<br />

Enregistrement Mobile<br />

Idéal pour les personnes toujours en mouvement<br />

■ En surfant sur m.brusselsairlines.com depuis votre appareil mobile, vous pouvez<br />

recevoir directement votre carte d’embarquement sous forme d’un code barre 2D qui sera<br />

scanné à l’aéroport.<br />

■ Rendez-vous alors à l’aéroport à l’un des points Bagages Drop Off de<br />

Brussels Airlines pour y déposer vos bagages. Dirigez-vous ensuite directement<br />

vers la porte d’embarquement.<br />

■ Disponible entre 24 heures et 1 heure avant le départ de votre vol.<br />

Check-in Express Simple et rapide<br />

■ Evitez les files d’attente et enregistrez-vous via nos bornes Express.<br />

■ Ce service est disponible à Brussels Airport ainsi que dans une sélection<br />

d’aéroports européens.<br />

Enregistrement de votre vol retour Un service pratique<br />

■ Si votre vol retour est prévu dans les prochaines 24 heures et que votre réservation est<br />

confirmée, alors vous pouvez vous enregistrer en même temps sur les vols aller et retour.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Online check-in<br />

Saves time at the airport<br />

■ Visit checkin.brusselsairlines.com to<br />

check-in. Remember to print the pdf<br />

version of your boarding card.<br />

■ Once at the airport, drop baggage off at<br />

Brussels Airlines Baggage Drop Off<br />

points, and proceed to the gate.<br />

■ Available from 24 hours to one hour<br />

before your flight.<br />

Mobile check-in<br />

Ideal for busy people on the move<br />

■ Visit m.brusselsairlines.com from<br />

your web-enabled mobile device.<br />

The boarding pass will be sent to your<br />

mobile device as a 2D barcode, which<br />

can then be scanned at many locations<br />

in airports.<br />

■ Once at the airport, drop baggage off at<br />

Brussels Airlines Baggage Drop Off<br />

points, and proceed to the gate.<br />

■ Available from 24 hours to one hour<br />

before your flight.<br />

Express check-in<br />

Fast and simple<br />

■ Speed through check-in with our<br />

Express check-in kiosks.<br />

■ This service is available at Brussels<br />

Airport and selected European airports.<br />

Return check-in<br />

Added convenience<br />

■ If you’re returning within 24 hours and<br />

have a confirmed booking, you can<br />

check in for your outbound and return<br />

flights at the same time.<br />

Inchecken voor uw vlucht<br />

met Brussels Airlines kan<br />

eenvoudig en zonder zorgen<br />

Online check-in Bespaart tijd op de luchthaven<br />

■ Check in via checkin.brusselsairlines.com. Denk erom de pdf-versie<br />

van uw instapkaart af te printen.<br />

■ Op de luchthaven zet u uw bagage af aan één van de drop-off points van<br />

Brussels Airlines en loopt u meteen door naar de gate.<br />

■ Beschikbaar vanaf 24 uur tot 1 uur voor het vertrek van uw vlucht.<br />

Mobile check-in Ideaal voor druk bezette mensen die<br />

steeds onderweg zijn<br />

■ Ga naar m.brusselsairlines.com via uw mobiele toestel met<br />

internetverbinding. De instapkaart zal als een streepjescode in 2D naar<br />

uw mobiele toestel verzonden worden. Deze code kan vervolgens<br />

gescand worden op vele plaatsen in luchthavens.<br />

■ Op de luchthaven zet u uw bagage af aan één van de drop-off points van<br />

Brussels Airlines en loopt u meteen door naar de gate.<br />

■ Beschikbaar vanaf 24 uur tot 1 uur voor het vertrek van uw vlucht.<br />

Express Check-in Snel en eenvoudig<br />

■ Snel door de check-in met onze machines voor Express Check-in.<br />

■ Deze dienst is beschikbaar op Brussels Airport en geselecteerde<br />

Europese luchthavens.<br />

Return Check-in Extra comfort<br />

■ Indien u binnen de 24 uur terugkeert en uw boeking reeds bevestigd is,<br />

kunt u tegelijkertijd inchecken voor uw heen- en terugvlucht.


safety<br />

For your safety<br />

and comfort<br />

Welcome on board our fl ight today and<br />

thank you for choosing Brussels Airlines.<br />

Please read the information below<br />

regarding smoking and safety regulations<br />

on board. Should you have any questions,<br />

please ask your cabin attendant.<br />

Electronic devices<br />

No personal communications or radio emitting<br />

devices, such as portable telephones, radios,<br />

GPS locators, games or remote-control toys,<br />

may be used on board*. Please ensure that<br />

your telephone is switched off before and<br />

during the flight. Items such as personal<br />

computers and electronic games may be used<br />

during the flight, but must be switched off<br />

during take-off and landing.<br />

Smoking<br />

In accordance with government regulations,<br />

smoking is not permitted on any Brussels<br />

Airlines flight. Passengers should be aware that<br />

there are smoke detectors in the aircraft’s<br />

toilets and that any breach of this rule may<br />

incur penalties. Additionally, please note that<br />

electronic cigarettes are prohibited on board<br />

all our flights.<br />

Safety procedures<br />

You will find an information sheet on safety<br />

procedures in your seat pocket. Please read it<br />

carefully and please listen attentively to all<br />

safety announcements and instructions<br />

from the crew.<br />

Alcohol<br />

Passengers are not allowed to consume alcohol<br />

they have brought with them or bought on<br />

board. Alcohol may be served on board, but our<br />

cabin crew will not serve any passenger who<br />

they feel has already had too much to drink.<br />

*For the complete list of items whose use is<br />

restricted, please see your safety card located in<br />

the seat pocket in front of you.<br />

Pour votre sécurité<br />

et votre confort<br />

Nous vous souhaitons la bienvenue à<br />

bord de notre vol, et vous remercions<br />

d’avoir choisi Brussels Airlines.<br />

Veuillez lire les informations suivantes<br />

concernant les consignes de sécurité<br />

et l’interdiction de fumer à bord. Pour<br />

toute question, n’hésitez pas à vous<br />

adresser à notre personnel navigant.<br />

Appareils électroniques<br />

Aucun appareil de communication ou émetteur<br />

radio personnel, tel que téléphone portable,<br />

radio, système GPS, jeu ou jouet<br />

télécommandé ne peut être utilisé à bord*.<br />

Veuillez vous assurer que votre téléphone est<br />

bien éteint avant et pendant le vol. L’utilisation<br />

des ordinateurs et jeux électroniques est<br />

autorisée pendant le vol, mais ces appareils<br />

doivent être éteints lors du décollage et de<br />

l’atterrissage.<br />

Interdiction de fumer<br />

Conformément aux réglementations<br />

gouvernementales, tous les vols Brussels<br />

Airlines sont entièrement non-fumeurs. Nous<br />

rappelons aux passagers que les toilettes de<br />

l’avion sont équipées de détecteurs de fumée,<br />

et que toute infraction à ce règlement peut<br />

entraîner une amende. Veuillez également<br />

noter que les cigarettes électroniques ne sont<br />

pas autorisées sur nos vols.<br />

Procédures de sécurité<br />

Vous trouverez dans la poche de votre siège<br />

une fiche d’information concernant les<br />

procédures de sécurité. Veuillez lire cette<br />

fiche et écouter attentivement toutes les<br />

annonces et instructions de l’équipage en<br />

matière de sécurité.<br />

Alcool<br />

Les passagers ne sont pas autorisés à<br />

consommer l’alcool qu’ils ont emporté ou<br />

acheté à bord. De l’alcool peut être servi<br />

dans l’avion, mais notre équipage refusera de<br />

servir tout passager qu’il soupçonne d’avoir<br />

déjà trop bu.<br />

*Pour la liste complète des appareils dont l’utilisation<br />

à bord est interdite, veuillez consulter la fiche de<br />

sécurité rangée dans la poche du siège devant vous.<br />

AIRLINE<br />

Voor uw veiligheid<br />

en comfort<br />

We verwelkomen u graag aan boord van<br />

deze vlucht en danken u om te vliegen<br />

met Brussels Airlines. Lees aandachtig<br />

onderstaande informatie over roken en<br />

veiligheid aan boord. Als u vragen heeft,<br />

kunt u die stellen aan het<br />

cabinepersoneel.<br />

Elektronische apparaten<br />

U mag aan boord geen (communicatie)<br />

apparaten gebruiken die radiogolven uitzenden,<br />

zoals draagbare telefoons, radio’s, GPSapparaten,<br />

spelletjes of speelgoed met een<br />

afstandsbediening*. Zorg ervoor dat uw<br />

telefoon is uitgeschakeld voor en tijdens de<br />

vlucht. Elektronische toestellen zoals personal<br />

computers en spelletjes mag u tijdens de<br />

vlucht gebruiken, maar moet u uitschakelen<br />

bij het opstijgen en landen.<br />

Roken<br />

In overeenstemming met de Belgische<br />

wetgeving is roken verboden op alle vluchten<br />

van Brussels Airlines. Wij wijzen u erop dat de<br />

toiletten aan boord zijn uitgerust met<br />

rookdetectoren. Een inbreuk op het rookverbod<br />

kan bestraft worden. Tevens wijzen wij u erop<br />

dat het gebruik van elektronische sigaretten<br />

verboden is aan boord van al onze vluchten.<br />

Veiligheidsprocedures<br />

U vindt een informatieblad over<br />

de veiligheidsprocedures in het opbergzakje<br />

voor u. Lees het zorgvuldig en luister<br />

aandachtig naar alle veiligheidsmededelingen<br />

en instructies van het cabinepersoneel.<br />

Alcohol<br />

Passagiers mogen geen alcohol gebruiken die<br />

ze hebben meegebracht of aan boord hebben<br />

gekocht. Alcohol kan aan boord worden<br />

geserveerd, maar ons cabinepersoneel zal geen<br />

alcohol schenken aan passagiers die volgens<br />

hen al voldoende hebben gedronken.<br />

*In het opbergzakje voor u vindt u uw<br />

veiligheidskaart met daarop de volledige lijst van<br />

apparaten met gebruiksbeperkingen.<br />

Useful telephone numbers in Europe<br />

112 (emergency services requiring an ambulance, fire brigade or police); Child Focus 116 000 (missing children hotline)<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 103


104<br />

comfort<br />

Your personal<br />

wellbeing on board<br />

Nowadays, for many passengers, fl ying<br />

regularly is part of life. However, the body is<br />

sensitive to change and fl ying still isn’t part<br />

of a normal daily rhythm. Brussels Airlines<br />

cares about your comfort, so here are a<br />

couple of hints on how to keep your body<br />

happy and healthy in the air.<br />

Before<br />

■ Drink plenty of water and avoid excessive<br />

intake of alcohol, coffee and tea<br />

■ Take time to have a stroll around the terminal<br />

after check-in<br />

■ A light snack is fine, but avoid heavy meals<br />

before flying<br />

■ Dress in loose, comfortable clothing<br />

■ Apply moisturiser to keep your skin<br />

feeling fresh<br />

During<br />

■ Drink plenty of water and avoid excessive<br />

intake of alcohol, coffee and tea<br />

■ Exercise helps you avoid cramps and is<br />

good for circulation, even on short flights<br />

(see below)<br />

■ Don’t eat too much<br />

Exercises<br />

Stretch and flex your leg muscles, as well as your<br />

arms, shoulders and neck, from time to time. This<br />

will improve your general level of comfort and<br />

stimulate your circulation. Stretch and rotate your<br />

ankles and legs while sitting in your seat.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Votre bien-être à bord<br />

De nos jours, il est de plus en plus courant de<br />

prendre l’avion régulièrement. Cependant, le<br />

corps est sensible aux changements, et voler<br />

implique toujours une modifi cation du rythme<br />

normal. Pour Brussels Airlines, la question<br />

de votre confort est une priorité. Voici donc<br />

quelques conseils pour garder un corps léger et<br />

équilibré jusque dans les airs.<br />

Avant<br />

■ Buvez beaucoup d’eau, évitez une<br />

consommation excessive d’alcool, de<br />

café et de thé<br />

■ Prenez le temps de vous balader un peu dans<br />

l’aérogare après l’enregistrement<br />

■ N’hésitez pas à prendre un en-cas léger, mais<br />

évitez les repas trop lourds avant d’embarquer<br />

■ Portez des vêtements amples et confortables<br />

■ Appliquez une crème hydratante pour garder<br />

une peau fraîche<br />

Pendant<br />

■ Buvez beaucoup d’eau, évitez une<br />

consommation excessive d’alcool, de<br />

café et de thé<br />

■ Faire de l’exercice permet d’éviter les<br />

crampes et est excellent pour la circulation.<br />

Essayez les exercices décrits ci-dessous<br />

■ Ne mangez pas trop<br />

Exercises<br />

Etirez et fléchissez de temps à autre les muscles<br />

de vos jambes, vos bras, vos épaules et votre<br />

nuque. Cela améliorera votre confort général tout<br />

en stimulant votre circulation. Etirez et dessinez de<br />

petits cercles avec vos chevilles et vos jambes<br />

lorsque vous êtes assis.<br />

Uw persoonlijk<br />

comfort aan board<br />

Vandaag maakt vliegen voor heel wat passagiers<br />

deel uit van het dagelijkse leven. Ons lichaam is<br />

echter gevoelig voor verandering en vliegen kan<br />

ons dagritme danig in de war brengen. Uw welzijn<br />

ligt Brussels Airlines nauw aan het hart. Daarom<br />

geven we u enkele tips om ook in de lucht uw<br />

lichaam fi t en gezond te houden.<br />

Vooraf<br />

■ Drink veel water en vermijd overmatig<br />

gebruik van alcohol, koffie en thee<br />

■ Neem de tijd om na het inchecken even door<br />

de terminal te wandelen<br />

■ Een lichte snack mag, maar eet niet te zwaar<br />

vóór u het vliegtuig neemt<br />

■ Draag losse, comfortabele kleding<br />

■ Gebruik een vochtinbrengende crème zodat<br />

uw huid fris aanvoelt<br />

Tijdens<br />

■ Drink veel water en vermijd overmatig<br />

gebruik van alcohol, koffie en thee<br />

■ Oefeningen voorkomen krampen en zijn<br />

goed voor de bloedsomloop. Probeer<br />

onderstaande oefeningen<br />

■ Eet niet te veel<br />

Oefeningen<br />

Strek en buig nu en dan uw benen, armen,<br />

schouders en nek. U zult er zich beter door voelen<br />

en het stimuleert de bloedsomloop. Strek en draai<br />

uw enkels en benen terwijl u in uw stoel zit.<br />

Stretch and rotate your ankles and legs while seated . Flex and stretch your calf muscles , as well as your arms , shoulders and neck periodically.<br />

This will improve your general level of comfort and stimulate your circulation.<br />

ILLUSTRATIONS: JULIE JOHNSON


in the air<br />

Brussels Airlines aircraft are a regular sight taking off and<br />

landing at Brussels Airport as well as at the 70 destinations<br />

we serve across Europe and Africa. Check our fl eet line-up to<br />

fi nd out more about the aircraft you’re fl ying on<br />

Airbus A330-200<br />

long haul flights<br />

Number 2<br />

Seats 230<br />

Wingspan 60.30 m<br />

Airbus A330-300<br />

long haul flights<br />

Number 5<br />

Seats 284<br />

Wingspan 60.30 m<br />

Airbus A319<br />

short haul flights<br />

Number 11<br />

Seats 141<br />

Wingspan 34.09 m<br />

Airbus A320<br />

short haul flights<br />

Number 4<br />

Seats 168<br />

Wingspan 34.10 m<br />

brusselsairlines.com<br />

Length 58.40 m<br />

Height 17.80 m<br />

Cruising speed 870 km/h<br />

Length 63.66 m<br />

Height 16.91 m<br />

Cruising speed 870 km/h<br />

Length 33.84 m<br />

Height 11.76 m<br />

Cruising speed 850 km/h<br />

Length 37.57 m<br />

Height 11 m<br />

Cruising speed 850 km/h<br />

Boeing 737-300<br />

short haul flights<br />

Number 1<br />

Seats 142<br />

Wingspan 29.90 m<br />

Boeing 737-400<br />

short haul flights<br />

Number 3<br />

Seats 164<br />

Wingspan 29.90 m<br />

AVRO RJ85<br />

short haul flights<br />

Number 4<br />

Seats 82<br />

Wingspan 26.30 m<br />

AVRO RJ100<br />

short haul flights<br />

Number 12<br />

Seats 97<br />

Wingspan 26.30 m<br />

Number 3<br />

Seats 76-78<br />

Wingspan 28.42 m<br />

Length 33.40 m<br />

Height 11.13 m<br />

Cruising speed 795 km/h<br />

Length 36.45 m<br />

Height 11.13 m<br />

Cruising speed 795 km/h<br />

Length 28.30 m<br />

Height 08.50 m<br />

Cruising speed 755 km/h<br />

Length 31.00 m<br />

Height 08.50 m<br />

Cruising speed 755 km/h<br />

Bombardier DH8-Q400<br />

short haul flights<br />

Length 32.84 m<br />

Height 8.34 m<br />

Max speed 667 km/h<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 105


106<br />

loyalty programme<br />

PROMO 1 PROMO 2<br />

Celebrate Brussels Airlines’ new direct non-stop flight between<br />

Brussels and New York and earn 25% additional award miles.<br />

Register before 31 August <strong>2012</strong>, and travel from 1 June to 31<br />

August <strong>2012</strong>. Sign up at miles-and-more.be/newyork<br />

Célébrez le lancement de la nouvelle liaison directe de<br />

Brussels Airlines entre Bruxelles et New York et cumulez<br />

25% de Miles de prime supplémentaires. Inscrivez-vous avant<br />

le 31 août <strong>2012</strong>, et voyagez du 1er juin au 31 août <strong>2012</strong>.<br />

Enregistrez-vous sur miles-and-more.be/newyork-fr<br />

Vier de lancering van de nieuwe directe vliegroute van<br />

Brussels Airlines tussen Brussel en New York en ontvang<br />

25% meer awardmijlen. Registreer u voor 31 augustus <strong>2012</strong>,<br />

en reis van 1 juni tot 31 augustus <strong>2012</strong>. Schrijf nu in via<br />

miles-and-more.be/newyork-nl<br />

Scan this code with your smartphone to visit miles-and-more.be<br />

Visitez miles-and-more.be en scannant ce code avec votre smartphone<br />

Scan deze code met uw smartphone om miles-and-more.be te bezoeken<br />

become a miles & more member now!<br />

Sign up online at miles-and-more.be or ask our cabin crew for an application form<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Spend fewer miles between<br />

Brussels and the Uk<br />

Until 30 July <strong>2012</strong> you can secure your Brussels Airlines award<br />

ticket between Brussels and Birmingham, Bristol, London,<br />

Manchester or Newcastle for only 14,000 miles in Economy<br />

Class, and 24,000 miles in Business Class, to fly between 1 June<br />

<strong>2012</strong> and 31 July <strong>2012</strong>. Visit miles-and-more.be/spendmiles<br />

Dépensez moins de Miles entre<br />

Bruxelles et le Royaume-Uni<br />

Réservez votre billet Prime avec Brussels Airlines entre<br />

Bruxelles et Birmingham, Bristol, Londres, Manchester<br />

ou Newcastle jusqu’au 30 juillet <strong>2012</strong> pour seulement<br />

14 000 Miles en Economy Class et 24 000 Miles en Business<br />

Class, et voyagez entre le 1 juin <strong>2012</strong> et le 31 juillet <strong>2012</strong>.<br />

Visitez miles-and-more.be/echangerdesmiles<br />

Besteed minder mijlen<br />

tussen Brussel en het<br />

Verenigd Koninkrijk<br />

Boek uw Brussels Airlines award ticket tussen Brussel en<br />

Birmingham, Bristol, Londen, Manchester of Newcastle tot<br />

30 juli <strong>2012</strong> voor slechts 14.000 mijlen in Economy Class of<br />

24.000 mijlen in Business Class om te vliegen tussen 1 juni <strong>2012</strong><br />

en 31 juli <strong>2012</strong>. Bezoek miles-and-more.be/gebruikmijlen


PROMO 3<br />

Destination: Africa!<br />

Earn double miles or book your flight award for only 34,000 miles on<br />

any Brussels Airlines flight between Brussels and Abidjan, Bujumbura,<br />

Douala, Entebbe, Kinshasa, Nairobi or Yaoundé until 30 June <strong>2012</strong>.<br />

For bookings and conditions, please visit miles-and-more.be/earnmiles<br />

or miles-and-more.be/spendmiles<br />

Destination: l’Afrique !<br />

Cumulez le double de Miles ou réservez votre billet Prime pour seulement<br />

34,000 Miles sur tous les vols Brussels Airlines entre Bruxelles et Abidjan,<br />

Bujumbura, Douala, Entebbe, Kinshasa, Nairobi ou Yaoundé jusqu’au<br />

30 juin <strong>2012</strong>. Pour effectuer vos réservations et voir les conditions,<br />

rendez-vous sur miles-and-more.be/cumulerdesmiles ou<br />

miles-and-more.be/echangerdesmiles<br />

Bestemming: Afrika!<br />

Verdien dubbele mijlen of boek uw vluchtaward voor slechts 34.000 mijlen<br />

op elke Brussels Airlines vlucht tussen Brussel en Abidjan, Bujumbura,<br />

Douala, Entebbe, Kinshasa, Nairobi of Yaoundé tot 30 juni <strong>2012</strong>. Voor<br />

boekingen en voorwaarden, gelieve miles-and-more.be/verzamelmijlen<br />

of miles-and-more.be/gebruikmijlen te bezoeken<br />

Connect more smoothly<br />

The Star Alliance network ensures you a<br />

convenient, smooth and effi cient worldwide<br />

travel experience<br />

■ The Star Alliance network is a group of 25 airlines<br />

working together to operate more than 21,000 daily<br />

departures to 1,160 destinations in 181 countries, with<br />

over 990 airport lounges<br />

■ Flight connections between member airlines are<br />

smoother and faster thanks to coordinated arrivals and<br />

departures, as well as closer airport facilities<br />

■ Earn frequent flyer mileage on any Star Alliance<br />

scheduled flight, making it easier to reach, maintain<br />

and build your status<br />

For more information, visit staralliance.com<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 107


108<br />

network<br />

80<br />

premium<br />

European<br />

destinations<br />

Perfect for<br />

one-day,<br />

weekend and<br />

leisure trips<br />

MADEIRA<br />

Funchal<br />

Portland<br />

Vancouver<br />

Seattle<br />

Porto<br />

Lisbon<br />

Faro<br />

Belfast<br />

Calgary<br />

Denver<br />

San Francisco<br />

Las Vegas<br />

Los Angeles<br />

Phoenix<br />

San Diego<br />

Austin<br />

1 Brussels Airlines<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

Manchester<br />

Birmingham<br />

Bristol<br />

Bilbao<br />

Edinburgh<br />

Newcastle<br />

Madrid Barcelona<br />

Malaga<br />

Winnipeg<br />

Minneapolis<br />

UNITED<br />

STATES<br />

destination in US<br />

Daily direct fl ight to New York JFK<br />

connections to nearly<br />

Leeds Bradford<br />

East Midlands<br />

London<br />

Heathrow<br />

Paris<br />

Strasbourg Stuttgart<br />

Munich<br />

Basel<br />

Vienna<br />

Zurich<br />

Geneva<br />

Ljubljana<br />

Budapest<br />

Lyon<br />

Milan<br />

Venice<br />

Turin<br />

Bologna<br />

Zagreb<br />

Toulouse<br />

Marseille<br />

Nice Florence<br />

Chicago<br />

Dallas Atlanta<br />

New Orleans<br />

Houston<br />

Tampa<br />

60<br />

Bergen<br />

Stavanger<br />

Oslo<br />

Hannover<br />

BRUSSELS<br />

Frankfurt<br />

CANADA<br />

Philadelphia<br />

CUBA<br />

JAMAICA<br />

Hamburg<br />

Rome<br />

Olbia<br />

Québec City<br />

Ottawa<br />

Moncton<br />

Toronto<br />

Montreal<br />

Boston<br />

Halifax<br />

Washington<br />

Orlando<br />

Gothenburg<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Malta<br />

Fort Lauderdale<br />

HAITI<br />

Stockholm<br />

Poznan<br />

Berlin<br />

Wroclaw<br />

Prague<br />

Naples<br />

Lamezia Terme<br />

New York<br />

BAHAMAS<br />

Catania<br />

DOMINICAN REP.<br />

San Juan<br />

US destinations with Direct<br />

flights to Chicago, Philadelphia,<br />

Washington and New York in codeshare with Star Alliance partners<br />

9 destinations in Canada<br />

Calgary, Halifax, Moncton, Montreal, Ottawa, Québec City, Toronto,<br />

Vancouver & Winnipeg in codeshare with Jet Airways and Air Canada<br />

Gdansk<br />

SAINT KITTS<br />

AND NEVIS<br />

Warsaw<br />

Krakow<br />

Corfu<br />

Vilnius<br />

Athens<br />

Tallinn<br />

Riga<br />

Thessaloniki<br />

Helsinki<br />

Bucharest<br />

Heraklion<br />

Rhodes<br />

Beijing<br />

CHINA<br />

Kiev<br />

Tel Aviv<br />

Moscow<br />

2<br />

destinations<br />

in the<br />

Middle East<br />

Abu Dhabi<br />

in codeshare with<br />

Etihad Airways<br />

Tel Aviv<br />

fl own by Brussels Airlines<br />

and also in codeshare<br />

with Lufthansa<br />

Abu<br />

Dhabi<br />

Umea<br />

1<br />

destination<br />

in China<br />

Beijing<br />

in codeshare with<br />

Hainan Airlines


20<br />

Brussels Airlines<br />

destinations in Africa<br />

Abidjan, Agadir, Bamako,<br />

Banjul, Bujumbura,<br />

Conakry, Cotonou,<br />

Dakar, Douala,<br />

Entebbe, Freetown,<br />

Kigali, Kinshasa, Lomé,<br />

Luanda, Marrakech,<br />

SENEGAL<br />

Monrovia, Nairobi,<br />

Ouagadougou &<br />

Yaoundé<br />

2 Korongo<br />

Airlines destinations<br />

Accra<br />

(operated by Brussels Airlines)<br />

EQUAT.<br />

GUINEA<br />

Lubumbashi & Johannesburg<br />

12 codeshare destinations<br />

Casablanca (with Royal Air Maroc); Addis Ababa (with Ethiopian Airlines);<br />

Abuja, Accra, Johannesburg, Khartoum, Lagos, Libreville, Luanda &<br />

Port Harcourt (with Lufthansa); Cairo (with Egyptair); Nairobi (with Swiss)<br />

Mumbai<br />

Delhi<br />

INDIA<br />

Chennai<br />

Codeshare partners<br />

Casablanca<br />

MOROCCO<br />

Marrakech<br />

Agadir<br />

ALGERIA<br />

TUNISIA<br />

Luanda<br />

LIBYA EGYPT<br />

MAURITANIA<br />

MALI<br />

NIGER<br />

SUDAN<br />

Dakar<br />

Banjul GAMBIA<br />

BURKINA<br />

FASO<br />

CHAD<br />

Khartoum<br />

ERITREA<br />

GUINEA<br />

DJIBOUTI<br />

BISSAU GUINEA<br />

NIGERIA<br />

Conakry<br />

SIERRA IVORY GHANA<br />

Abuja<br />

Freetown LEONE COAST<br />

Monrovia Abidjan Lomé Lagos<br />

LIBERIA<br />

Port Harcourt<br />

Douala<br />

CENTRAL<br />

AFRICAN REPUBLIC<br />

Addis Ababa<br />

ETHIOPIA<br />

Yaoundé<br />

CAMEROON<br />

Libreville CONGO<br />

GABON<br />

DEMOCRATIC<br />

REPUBLIC OF<br />

THE CONGO<br />

RWANDA<br />

UGANDA<br />

KENYA<br />

Entebbe Nairobi<br />

Kigali<br />

SOMALIA<br />

Bujumbura<br />

Kinshasa<br />

BURUNDI<br />

TANZANIA<br />

Cotonou<br />

Bamako<br />

Ouagadougou<br />

SOUTH<br />

SUDAN<br />

3 destinations<br />

in India<br />

Delhi, Mumbai & Chennai<br />

in codeshare with Jet Airways<br />

2 destinations<br />

in Southeast Asia<br />

Bangkok<br />

in codeshare with Thai Airways<br />

Singapore<br />

in codeshare with Lufthansa<br />

TOGO<br />

BENIN<br />

Bangkok<br />

THAILAND<br />

MALAYSIA<br />

SINGAPORE<br />

ANGOLA<br />

NAMIBIA<br />

ZAMBIA<br />

BOTSWANA<br />

SOUTH AFRICA<br />

ZIMBABWE<br />

Johannesburg<br />

Cairo<br />

Lubumbashi<br />

MALAWI<br />

MOZAMBIQUE<br />

Legend<br />

Brussels Airlines fl ights<br />

Korongo Airlines fl ights<br />

Codeshare operated<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 109


LEVEL 2<br />

LEVEL 1<br />

GATES A28-A39<br />

LEVEL 0<br />

LEVEL -2<br />

at the airport<br />

BRUSSELS AIRLINES<br />

LOUNGE<br />

Transport to/from<br />

Brussels Airport<br />

Car rental<br />

The car rental companies are located in the<br />

arrivals hall level 2. To return your car, follow the signage<br />

at Brussels Airport for Front Park 1. Returning your car is<br />

simple and should take no longer than 10 minutes. Avis is<br />

the preferred partner of Brussels Airlines, for preferential<br />

rates, see the Avis link on brusselsairlines.com<br />

Fast<br />

Lane<br />

Discover the brand<br />

new Samsonite store in<br />

the departure hall<br />

BRUSSELS AIRLINES<br />

TRANSFER & SERVICES<br />

GATES A40-A72<br />

GATES T61-T72<br />

Taxis<br />

Taxis are continuously available outside the<br />

arrivals hall, level 2. We advise you to use official taxis<br />

carrying a yellow/blue licence emblem. Wheelchair<br />

users can reserve a taxi with Taxi Hendricks via<br />

tel. +32 (0)2 752 9800 or hendriks.be<br />

A57<br />

BRUSSELS AIRLINES<br />

TRANSFER & SERVICES<br />

OPPOSITE GATE A40<br />

T-ZONE<br />

PLAY AREA<br />

LEVEL 4<br />

LEVEL 3<br />

LEVEL 2<br />

LEVEL 0<br />

LEVEL -1<br />

DEPARTURES<br />

BRUSSELS AIRLINES<br />

SALES & TICKETING<br />

ARRIVALS<br />

BUSES<br />

RAILWAY STATION<br />

TO GATES A/T<br />

Buses<br />

The bus station is located at level 0<br />

and provides bus services to many cities around<br />

Brussels Airport. For more information you can contact:<br />

■ De Lijn: tel. +32 (0)70 220 200 or delijn.be<br />

■ MIVB/STIB: tel. +32 (0)7 023 2000 or stib.be<br />

■ Airport Express: Antwerp–Brussels Airport–<br />

Antwerp: tel. +32 (0)52 334 000 or<br />

airportexpress.be<br />

The Netherlands–Brussels Airport–<br />

The Netherlands: airportxpress.nl<br />

(stops at Amsterdam and Rotterdam)<br />

Trains<br />

The train station is located at<br />

Brussels Airport at level -1.<br />

BRUSSELS AIRLINES<br />

SUNRISE LOUNGE<br />

BUS TRANSFER TO B-GATES<br />

57<br />

TO GATES B<br />

Fast<br />

Lane<br />

BRUSSELS AIRLINES<br />

TRANSFER & SERVICES<br />

BESIDE GATE B16<br />

PLAY AREA<br />

BRUSSELS AIRLINES<br />

CHECK-IN<br />

BRUSSELS AIRLINES<br />

BAGGAGE SERVICES<br />

PREMIUM<br />

GATES B01-B40<br />

GATES B80-B98<br />

BUS TRANSFER TO A/T-GATES<br />

PLAY AREA<br />

DEPARTURES<br />

LEVEL 3<br />

ARRIVALS<br />

LEVEL 2<br />

LEVEL 0<br />

Brussels Airlines Services<br />

Services Restaurants & bars<br />

Restaurants & Shops bars<br />

Shops Tickets & airline services<br />

Tickets & airline<br />

Airline<br />

services<br />

lounges<br />

Airline lounges<br />

Relaxation Zone<br />

Relaxation Zone<br />

wi Wi-Fi is available in all areas of the<br />

wi Wi-Fi is available fi passenger in all areas terminal of theand<br />

the piers<br />

fi passenger terminal and the piers<br />

Check-in rows<br />

Check-in rows<br />

Baggage reclaim area<br />

Baggage reclaim area<br />

Brussels Airport, the home base of Brussels Airlines, is tailored to suit the needs of all passengers whether they<br />

require a full-service product or are low-fare seekers. International surveys and ratings have shown that Brussels<br />

Airport is one of the most welcoming and effi cient in the world<br />

AIRLINES<br />

SERVICES<br />

M<br />

Brussels Airlines<br />

Transfers<br />

All flights from non-Schengen countries arrive at B-Gates<br />

All flights from Schengen countries depart from A-Gates<br />

The Brussels Airport Express takes you up to four times<br />

an hour to the centre of Brussels in 15 minutes. From<br />

there you can connect to the Belgian and international<br />

rail networks. For more information please contact<br />

NMBS/SNCB via tel. +32 (0)2 753 2440 or b-rail.be<br />

Lost, found and<br />

refused objects<br />

■ In the terminal: go to the information desk<br />

in the arrivals hall – level 2 (opening hours<br />

6am-9pm). For more information, tel. 0900-70 000<br />

daily 7am-10pm<br />

■ Left on board: go to the Brussels Airlines desk in<br />

the baggage reclaim area; Lost baggage: go to the<br />

Brussels Airlines desk in the baggage reclaim area,<br />

tel. +32 (0)2 723 3052.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 111


112<br />

delicious<br />

Food<br />

MENU DEALS<br />

SWEET MENU €4.00<br />

(2 items) Muffi n (vanilla/chocolate) or<br />

Waffl e with hot* or soft drink<br />

*Hot drinks not available on our shortest fl ights after 10am<br />

LUNCH MENU** €6.00<br />

(2 items) Sandwich or Aïki snack with<br />

soft or hot drink or soup<br />

**Not available on our shortest fl ights<br />

SANDWICHES **<br />

Cheese €4.00<br />

Tasty double deck sandwich with cheese<br />

Bacon €4.00<br />

Delicious sandwich with bacon, lettuce and tomato<br />

**Not available on our shortest fl ights<br />

HOT SNACKS<br />

Aïki Pasta<br />

Spirelli with creamy cheese<br />

€4.00<br />

Aïki Noodles chicken €4.00<br />

Royco Minute Soup €2.50<br />

SWEET SNACKS<br />

M&M’s 250g €4.00<br />

Celebrations Chocolate assortment 240g €4.00<br />

Muffi n (vanilla/chocolate) €2.00<br />

Lotus waffl e XL €2.00<br />

Twix XL €2.00<br />

SAVOURY SNACKS<br />

Pringles (hot & spicy) €2.00<br />

Pringles (salt) €2.00<br />

Pringles (paprika) €2.00<br />

Bifi XXL 40g €2.00<br />

PAYMENT METHODS<br />

All products are sold onboard at stated sizes and subject<br />

to availability. Actual items may vary slightly from what<br />

is shown. Prices are subject to change without notice.<br />

Passengers may not consume alcoholic beverages which<br />

they have supplied themselves, have purchased as duty<br />

free goods, or have been supplied by third parties. Customs<br />

regulations require passengers to declare all items purchased. Returned goods and enquiries should be<br />

made to: LSG Sky Chefs, Luchthavengebouw 53, 1930 B-Zaventem. PRICES INCLUDE ALL RELEVANT VAT.<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

CREDIT<br />

CARD<br />

MIN<br />

€5.00<br />

b.light economy menu available on European network<br />

(except Agadir, Athens, Bristol, Hannover, Marrakech, Moscow, Newcastle, Paris and Tel Aviv)<br />

CREDIT<br />

CARD<br />

MAX<br />

€200<br />

CASH<br />

In €<br />

ONLY<br />

SOFT<br />

Spa still water 50cl €2.50<br />

Spa sparkling water 50cl €2.50<br />

Coca-cola 33cl €2.50<br />

Coca-cola zero 33cl €2.50<br />

Fanta 33cl €2.50<br />

Schweppes tonic 33cl €2.50<br />

Lipton ice tea 33cl €2.50<br />

Minute Maid orange juice 25cl €2.50<br />

SPECIAL<br />

Red Bull 25cl €3.00<br />

•Energy drink<br />

mySmoothie 25cl<br />

•<br />

€3.50<br />

100% fruit inside •No preservatives •No additives<br />

HOT<br />

Drinks<br />

Nescafé coffee €2.50<br />

Nescafé decaf €2.50<br />

Nescafé cappucino €2.50<br />

Lipton tea (yellow label) €2.50<br />

Hotcémel hot chocolate €2.50<br />

BEERS<br />

Maes beer 33cl €3.50<br />

Carlsberg (New can) 33cl €3.50<br />

Grimbergen blonde 33cl €3.50<br />

ALCOHOL<br />

Gordon’s gin 5cl* €4.00<br />

Johnnie Walker red label whisky 5cl* €4.00<br />

* + soft drink €6.00<br />

WINE<br />

White – Domaine BLOMAC Chardonnay 18.7cl €4.00<br />

Red – Domaine BLOMAC Merlot 18.7cl €4.00<br />

SPARKLING WINE<br />

Not available on our shortest fl ights after 10am<br />

Martini – Vino spumante brut 20cl €6.00<br />

Gifts<br />

Fun Plane Keyring with sound and lights €4.00<br />

Finest Belgian chocolates Duc d’O 115g €4.00


JULY 3 & 5 <strong>2012</strong><br />

9PM ON BRUSSELS GRAND PLACE<br />

BRUSSELS TRADITIONS<br />

Produced by Ommegang Brussels Events directed by Giles Daoust - With : Dominique Corbiau<br />

Sebastien Romignon - Jo Lemaire - Johan Verminnen - Musical Composer : Ernst Wolfgang Meinrath


114<br />

extra time: sport<br />

tom watt on the european championships, ultimate frisbee and the red bulls’ thierry henry<br />

theathlete<br />

Plenty of sporting greats have been proud to say they were born and bred on the mean streets of New<br />

York. Many more have come to the city, been inspired and made the Big Apple their adopted home.<br />

Thierry Henry won every piece of silverware imaginable during an astonishing career in Europe:<br />

domestic titles, a European Champions League, a European Championship and a World Cup.<br />

While the French striker was scoring goals for clubs in Monaco, Turin, London and Barcelona, though, he<br />

kept his eye on the chance of a late-career move to the US. He makes no secret of the fact that New York<br />

was always his chosen destination. He’d been visiting the city – and making friends there – since 1996.<br />

So, while his MLS (major league soccer) club the Red Bulls play across the Hudson River in Harrison,<br />

New Jersey, Henry has made himself at home amidst the buzz of the fashionable Tribeca District. As he<br />

says, “A show? A party? The park? You want to eat? You want to shop? It’s your choice. New York is the<br />

city where you can do whatever you want, whenever you want to do it.”<br />

theticket<br />

Warsaw is the place to be this month when the <strong>2012</strong> European Championships ampionships kick off on 8 June with<br />

co-hosts Poland taking on Greece. The setting promises to be a spectacular ectacular one: the new National<br />

Stadium has been re-built from scratch on the banks of the Vistula, a, its red and white<br />

outer skin designed to look like a Polish fl ag fl uttering in the wind.<br />

Opening fi xtures at major tournaments tend to be cagey affairs, but the sense<br />

of occasion will more than make up for that. The home fans will be hoping that<br />

un-fancied Greece can’t pull off the kind of surprise they did on their eir way to<br />

winning Euro 2004 in Portugal. If you haven’t already got tickets, you ou should have<br />

a good chance for Russia versus Greece on 16 June. But you won’t need to be<br />

inside the stadium to get swept up in tournament fever. Warsaw is a city that loves<br />

its football; you can be sure that every restaurant, bar and hotel will ll be packed,<br />

decked out in red and white, and showing the match on big-screen TVs. uefa.com<br />

<strong>june</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

theknowledge<br />

The capital of Rwanda is dotted<br />

with green open spaces, so if<br />

you’re in Kigali and in the mood<br />

for something more energetic<br />

than a walk, head for Cercle<br />

Sportif. It’s the city’s leading<br />

private sports club and offers<br />

members swimming, tennis and<br />

squash facilities. Visitors who<br />

aren’t planning to sign up might<br />

still want to fi nd their way to Ave<br />

du Rugunga because the club is<br />

also home to – of all things – a<br />

well-established and welcoming<br />

Ultimate Frisbee community.<br />

Ultimate frisbee is frisbee<br />

turned into a team sport. Still<br />

just a simple plastic disc with<br />

absolutely nothing else required,<br />

in Kigali it’s about sociability as<br />

well as the work-out.<br />

Played on a football pitch, there<br />

are scratch games that you can<br />

join for a small fee. The sessions<br />

at Cercle Sportif are held in the<br />

cool of early weekday mornings<br />

and on Sunday afternoons and<br />

are open to everybody from<br />

absolute beginners to budding<br />

Ultimate champions.<br />

cerclesportifdekigali.com<br />

FLY TO new york jfk and warsaw daily;<br />

kigali five times weekly. brusselsairlines.com<br />

GETTY IMAGES


This year we celebrate our 15th Anniversary.<br />

So on behalf of all our Member Airlines,<br />

who are committed to working hard for you,<br />

now and in the future,<br />

I’d like to say thank you.<br />

You’ve earned it.<br />

Mark Schwab, CEO Star Alliance Services GmbH.<br />

Come and celebrate with us from 14th May <strong>2012</strong> at staralliance.com<br />

Information correct as at 18APR12


The Lotus Collection<br />

D-Brilliant Cuts invented by master Polisher Hedwig Smets<br />

and is a registered Trademark owned by Dayekh Gems bvba<br />

Dayekh Gems & Jewellery is a proud partner of the Miles&More loyalty program of StarAlliance.<br />

You’ll earn 1 Award Mile for every euro spent.<br />

Appelmansstraat 25 box 23-26, 2018 Antwerp Belgium tel: +32 (0)3 226 11 91 | fax: +32 (0)3 226 21 57 | e-mail: info@dayekh.com

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