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South African brandy in an international context - Cape Wine Academy

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<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

By Derek Ramsden<br />

Dissertation submitted <strong>in</strong> partial fulfilment of the <strong>Cape</strong> W<strong>in</strong>e Master Diploma<br />

Page 1 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

DECLARATION<br />

I, Derek Ramsden, declare that this dissertation is my own, unaided work. It is submitted <strong>in</strong> partial<br />

fulfilment of the requirements for the Diploma of <strong>Cape</strong> W<strong>in</strong>e Master to the <strong>Cape</strong> W<strong>in</strong>e <strong>Academy</strong>. It has<br />

not been submitted before for qualification of exam<strong>in</strong>ation <strong>in</strong> this or <strong>an</strong>y other educational org<strong>an</strong>isation.<br />

Signed _____________________________ Date ______________________________<br />

Page 2 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS<br />

Firstly I would like to th<strong>an</strong>k everyone who has supported me through this process, who helped me get<br />

started <strong>an</strong>d get it f<strong>in</strong>ished.<br />

Th<strong>an</strong>ks must go to the m<strong>an</strong>y people who have helped me get the <strong>in</strong>formation together.<br />

The <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy Foundation who have offered me endless <strong>in</strong>formation <strong>an</strong>d direction as well as<br />

SAWIS for all the details <strong>an</strong>d statistics.<br />

Th<strong>an</strong>k you to all the <strong>Cape</strong> w<strong>in</strong>eries <strong>an</strong>d distiller for the assist<strong>an</strong>ce.<br />

To the friendly <strong>an</strong>d open people of the Armagnac <strong>an</strong>d Cognac regions <strong>in</strong> Fr<strong>an</strong>ce, who opened their cellar<br />

doors to me <strong>an</strong>d guided me <strong>in</strong> so m<strong>an</strong>y ways.<br />

Th<strong>an</strong>ks to all my friends <strong>an</strong>d family for the endless support <strong>an</strong>d also to Marilyn Cooper of the <strong>Cape</strong> W<strong>in</strong>e<br />

<strong>Academy</strong>, Margaret Fry of the <strong>Cape</strong> W<strong>in</strong>e Masters Institute <strong>an</strong>d Henry Davel my mentor.<br />

And f<strong>in</strong>ally th<strong>an</strong>k you to the amaz<strong>in</strong>g complexity of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> from all over the world that I have been<br />

fortunate enough to learn about <strong>an</strong>d to taste <strong>an</strong>d experience. For it is this, that <strong>in</strong>spired me to write<br />

this report.<br />

This is dedicated to my Late Father Dennis, who shared my love for f<strong>in</strong>e <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d with whom I shared<br />

the journey through the research <strong>an</strong>d discoveries which are conta<strong>in</strong>ed with<strong>in</strong> these pages.<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

ABSTRACT<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa has been distill<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong>to <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> s<strong>in</strong>ce 1672 when it was distilled on a ship off the <strong>Cape</strong><br />

coast. <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>deed <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> from all over the world has undergone m<strong>an</strong>y ch<strong>an</strong>ges<br />

<strong>an</strong>d improvements s<strong>in</strong>ce this time. <strong>South</strong> Africa is now a world leader <strong>in</strong> the production of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> as the<br />

array of <strong>in</strong>ternational awards bear testament to.<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa’s ma<strong>in</strong> competitors <strong>in</strong> the world market are Cognac <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac. These two regions<br />

produce br<strong>an</strong>dies of exceptional high quality <strong>in</strong> two different styles <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> two different ways. Both of<br />

these regions have been <strong>an</strong>alysed <strong>an</strong>d their production methods <strong>in</strong>vestigated to come to underst<strong>an</strong>d<br />

what these differences are.<br />

Spa<strong>in</strong>, Portugal <strong>an</strong>d Italy are <strong>South</strong> Africa’s competitors to a far lesser extent yet these countries were<br />

also <strong>in</strong>vestigated to underst<strong>an</strong>d their production techniques. Cognac, Armagnac, Jerez <strong>in</strong> Spa<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d<br />

Lour<strong>in</strong>hã <strong>in</strong> Portugal are the only regions along with <strong>South</strong> Africa that have complex <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> depth<br />

legislation cover<strong>in</strong>g all aspects of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> production.<br />

The other countries produc<strong>in</strong>g <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> a signific<strong>an</strong>t way were also looked at. These countries do not<br />

necessarily compete with <strong>South</strong> Africa <strong>in</strong> the same markets, predom<strong>in</strong>ately focuss<strong>in</strong>g on their own<br />

domestic markets.<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy is fight<strong>in</strong>g for market share with br<strong>an</strong>dies from other regions of the world as well<br />

as other types of spirits. The latest trends have shown a decl<strong>in</strong>e on both fields, this at a time when <strong>South</strong><br />

<strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is rid<strong>in</strong>g a high on the back of International success <strong>an</strong>d greater domestic market<br />

presence with the <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>g numbers of <strong>Cape</strong> w<strong>in</strong>eries produc<strong>in</strong>g their own <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. Greater market<strong>in</strong>g<br />

needs to be done to turn this trend around.<br />

Once new focus <strong>an</strong>d new strategies have been implemented the success of <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> seems<br />

<strong>in</strong>evitable.<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

TABLE OF CONTENTS<br />

Chapter 1: Introduction Page 8<br />

1.1 The Br<strong>an</strong>dy Market Page 10<br />

1.2 The Scope of the report Page 13<br />

1.3 The Outl<strong>in</strong>e of the document Page 13<br />

Chapter 2: The History of Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>an</strong>d distillation Page 15<br />

1.1 Serv<strong>in</strong>g, tast<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d enjoy<strong>in</strong>g Br<strong>an</strong>dy Page 16<br />

Chapter 3: The Major Br<strong>an</strong>dies of the World Page 18<br />

3.1 <strong>South</strong> Africa Page 18<br />

3.2 Fr<strong>an</strong>ce Page 30<br />

3.2.1 Cognac Page 31<br />

3.2.2 Armagnac Page 47<br />

3.2.3 Permitted additives <strong>in</strong> Cognac <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac Page 60<br />

3.2.4 French Br<strong>an</strong>dy Page 61<br />

3.3 Spa<strong>in</strong> Page 63<br />

3.4 Portugal Page 70<br />

Chapter 4: Other Countries Page 74<br />

4.1 Germ<strong>an</strong>y Page 74<br />

4.2 United States of America Page 74<br />

4.3 Italy Page 76<br />

4.4 Greece Page 77<br />

4.5 Australia Page 78<br />

4.6 Cyprus Page 79<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

4.7 Holl<strong>an</strong>d Page 79<br />

4.8 <strong>South</strong> America Page 79<br />

4.9 India Page 79<br />

4.9.1 Compar<strong>in</strong>g the legislation govern<strong>in</strong>g <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> production <strong>in</strong> the<br />

major <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>-produc<strong>in</strong>g regions of the world Page 81<br />

Chapter 5: International Competitions Page 84<br />

Chapter 6: How c<strong>an</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa cont<strong>in</strong>ue to compete with the other regions? Page90<br />

Chapter 7: How c<strong>an</strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> rega<strong>in</strong> lost ground to other spirits such as s<strong>in</strong>gle<br />

malt whiskeys <strong>in</strong> the local market? Page 91<br />

Chapter 8: The Good Life Br<strong>an</strong>dy Festival. Its role <strong>an</strong>d its future Page 93<br />

Chapter 9: Statistics <strong>an</strong>d figures Page 95<br />

Appendixes: Page 99<br />

References: Page 101<br />

List of Tables:<br />

Table 1: Armagnac age stipulations .............................................................................................................54<br />

Table 2: A comparison of major aspects of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> each country .............................................................81<br />

Table 3: Grape utilization ............................................................................................................................94<br />

Table 4: Utilization growth ..........................................................................................................................96<br />

Table 5: Br<strong>an</strong>dies market share <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa ...........................................................................................96<br />

Table 6: the importation of spirits <strong>in</strong> to <strong>South</strong> Africa ...................................................................................96<br />

Table 7: Spirit consumption <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa .................................................................................................97<br />

List of Figures:<br />

Figure 1: Diagram of the Potstill ................................................................................................................... 9<br />

Figure 2: Diagram of the column still ............................................................................................................ 9<br />

Figure 3 the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> spirit market breakdown ...................................................................................10<br />

Figure 4: The trend <strong>in</strong> Cognac's major markets ............................................................................................11<br />

Figure 5: Map of the Western <strong>Cape</strong>'s w<strong>in</strong>e regions......................................................................................20<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Figure 6: The <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy Aroma Wheel .......................................................................................27<br />

Figure 7: Map of Fr<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>an</strong>d its w<strong>in</strong>e grow<strong>in</strong>g regions .................................................................................30<br />

Figure 8: The Henri IV Dudognon, the most expensive spirit <strong>in</strong> the world ....................................................34<br />

Figure 9: Map of Cognac <strong>an</strong>d its regions ......................................................................................................34<br />

Figure 10: Diagram of a Potstill ...................................................................................................................38<br />

Figure 11: Compte age<strong>in</strong>g system ...............................................................................................................41<br />

Figure 12: Cognac Aroma Wheel .................................................................................................................45<br />

Figure 13: Map of Armagnac <strong>an</strong>d its regions ...............................................................................................50<br />

Figure 14: Diagram of the Armagnac column still ........................................................................................52<br />

Figure 15: Armagnac Aroma Wheel .............................................................................................................59<br />

Figure 16: Map of Spa<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d its w<strong>in</strong>e regions ..............................................................................................64<br />

Figure 17: Map of Jerez ...............................................................................................................................65<br />

Figure 18: The Solera system ......................................................................................................................67<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

“Claret is the liquor for boys; port, for men; but he who aspires to be a hero must dr<strong>in</strong>k <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.”<br />

Samuel Johnson<br />

Chapter 1: Introduction<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy is a distilled spirit that is made from a fermented base. Legislation <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa as well as the<br />

Europe<strong>an</strong> Union qualify that ‘Br<strong>an</strong>dy’ is made from grapes. The methods of production of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> differs<br />

from country to country, region to region <strong>an</strong>d even producer to producer but the basic methodology<br />

rema<strong>in</strong>s the same across the board. The specific details of production are set out below for each<br />

signific<strong>an</strong>t <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> produc<strong>in</strong>g region <strong>an</strong>d country <strong>in</strong> the world.<br />

Basic w<strong>in</strong>emak<strong>in</strong>g techniques are used to make a base w<strong>in</strong>e ready for distillation. The base w<strong>in</strong>e for a<br />

high quality f<strong>in</strong>al spirit should be of excellent quality. The rule that one c<strong>an</strong>not make good w<strong>in</strong>e from<br />

bad grapes is the same, if not even more signific<strong>an</strong>t. One c<strong>an</strong>not make good <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> from bad w<strong>in</strong>e<br />

made from bad grapes.<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>e should be low <strong>in</strong> alcohol, low <strong>in</strong> residual sugar, <strong>an</strong>d low <strong>in</strong> sulphates <strong>an</strong>d have a high acidity.<br />

These qualities are what dictate the grape varieties used. Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c, Chen<strong>in</strong> Bl<strong>an</strong>c, Colombar (d), Folle<br />

Bl<strong>an</strong>che, Baco 22, Airen <strong>an</strong>d Palom<strong>in</strong>o are the most signific<strong>an</strong>t grape varieties used throughout the<br />

worlds <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> production as they fulfil these requirements each show<strong>in</strong>g their own <strong>in</strong>dividual<br />

personalities.<br />

Once the base w<strong>in</strong>e is made, the distiller has to distil the w<strong>in</strong>e as quickly as possible, or store the w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>an</strong> oxygen free environment. The w<strong>in</strong>e, hav<strong>in</strong>g no added sulphur dioxide is very vulnerable to oxygen<br />

spoilage. The distillation process varies dramatically depend<strong>in</strong>g on the region <strong>in</strong> which it is be<strong>in</strong>g made<br />

<strong>an</strong>d the style or type of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> (or spirit) be<strong>in</strong>g made. Distillation is a physical separation process of<br />

liquids by boil<strong>in</strong>g. The entire process is based on the fact that all liquids, solids <strong>in</strong> suspension <strong>an</strong>d<br />

chemical compounds present <strong>in</strong> the liquids boil <strong>an</strong>d vaporise at different temperatures. This then allows<br />

for control of what is be<strong>in</strong>g vaporised.<br />

The base w<strong>in</strong>e is vaporised with<strong>in</strong> the still, the alcohol <strong>an</strong>d other chemical compounds are separated<br />

from the water <strong>an</strong>d then condensed back <strong>in</strong>to a liquid <strong>in</strong> the form of a spirit, <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

The two ma<strong>in</strong> types of still be<strong>in</strong>g used to distil a base w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong>to <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> are the Copper Pot Still <strong>an</strong>d the<br />

Cont<strong>in</strong>uous Column Still with variations of each.<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

The pot still, made from copper works <strong>in</strong> batches, where the base w<strong>in</strong>e is pumped <strong>in</strong>to the still for each<br />

separate distillation. These stills are emptied <strong>an</strong>d cle<strong>an</strong>ed after each batch. The <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> will have to pass<br />

through these stills twice for the f<strong>in</strong>al <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> to be produced.<br />

Figure 1: Diagram of the Potstill<br />

(www.madehow.com, 2012)<br />

Column or Coffee stills are based on a cont<strong>in</strong>uous process. The base w<strong>in</strong>e is pumped <strong>in</strong>to the still at the<br />

same rate as its be<strong>in</strong>g vaporised to ensure a const<strong>an</strong>t <strong>an</strong>d stable level <strong>an</strong>d bal<strong>an</strong>ce with<strong>in</strong> the still. It<br />

potentially could run perm<strong>an</strong>ently.<br />

Figure 2: Diagram of the column still<br />

(www.thew<strong>in</strong>ewisecomp<strong>an</strong>y.com, 2012)<br />

Page 9 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

The result<strong>in</strong>g spirit is clear <strong>an</strong>d is then matured <strong>in</strong> various types, shapes, sizes <strong>an</strong>d ages of barrels<br />

sourced from different timbers, Oak be<strong>in</strong>g the most commonly used, for different lengths of time<br />

depend<strong>in</strong>g on where the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is be<strong>in</strong>g made <strong>an</strong>d the <strong>in</strong>tended style or br<strong>an</strong>d the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is dest<strong>in</strong>ed<br />

for, from as little as 6 months to as long as 100 years.<br />

The <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> then bottled, labelled, sent to the market <strong>an</strong>d then f<strong>in</strong>ally enjoyed.<br />

1.1 The Br<strong>an</strong>dy Market.<br />

Statistics show that <strong>in</strong> 2011 the entire alcoholic beverage <strong>in</strong>dustry sold 239 billion litres. The spirit<br />

portion of this was only 8% contribut<strong>in</strong>g 20 billion litres. The <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> portion of the spirits sector (shown<br />

<strong>in</strong> the diagram below) is made up from 1.2 billion litres of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d 86 million litres of Cognac totall<strong>in</strong>g<br />

1’286’000’000 litres which equate to 6.4% of the spirit <strong>in</strong>dustry.<br />

Figure 3 the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> spirit market breakdown<br />

Percentages of the Spirit market<br />

Surpris<strong>in</strong>gly the biggest sell<strong>in</strong>g <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> the world is not from Cognac but from India. The McDowell’s<br />

No 1 sold 9.8 million cases <strong>in</strong> the period 2009-2010, hav<strong>in</strong>g a 40% share of the Indi<strong>an</strong> market <strong>an</strong>d a 7.1%<br />

share of the world market <strong>in</strong> 2010. (Unitedspirits, 2011)<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy 6%<br />

Cognac 0.4%<br />

White Spirits 22%<br />

Whiskey 13%<br />

Rum 7%<br />

Others 51%<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

This shouldn’t come as a surprise when one looks at the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> markets worldwide.<br />

In 2010 India had by far the biggest share of the market with 28% sell<strong>in</strong>g 320,897,930 litres, followed by<br />

the Philipp<strong>in</strong>es with 18%, Russia with 9%, Brazil <strong>an</strong>d the USA with 6%, Germ<strong>an</strong>y, Mexico <strong>an</strong>d <strong>South</strong><br />

Africa with 4(<strong>South</strong> Africa sold 41,779,836 litres) , then Ch<strong>in</strong>a with 3%. If one was to look at per capita<br />

consumption, the Philipp<strong>in</strong>es tops the list with <strong>an</strong> average of 2.2 litres <strong>in</strong> 2010, more th<strong>an</strong> double that of<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa <strong>in</strong> second place.<br />

The biggest br<strong>an</strong>ds are MacDowell’s (India) with 81,760,002 litres sold <strong>an</strong>d 7.1% of the market followed<br />

by Gr<strong>an</strong> Matador Br<strong>an</strong>dy (Philipp<strong>in</strong>es) with 6.9%, Emparador Br<strong>an</strong>dy (Philipp<strong>in</strong>es) with 5.7%, <strong>an</strong>d<br />

M<strong>an</strong>sion House (India) with 4.1% of the market.<br />

The Americ<strong>an</strong> E & J Gallo comes <strong>in</strong> at number ten with 2.5%. The biggest sell<strong>in</strong>g <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong><br />

2010 was Richelieu <strong>in</strong> 20 th spot sell<strong>in</strong>g 8,762,889 litres <strong>an</strong>d only 0.8% of the market followed closely by<br />

Klipdrift <strong>in</strong> 23 rd place with 0.7% <strong>an</strong>d 8,497,347 litres sold.<br />

Cognacs largest br<strong>an</strong>d Hennessey sold 36,286,060 litres hav<strong>in</strong>g 42.3% of the Cognac market share but<br />

will only be <strong>in</strong> 8 th position <strong>in</strong> sales if the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d Cognac categories were counted together. For some<br />

reason statistics are split between Cognac <strong>an</strong>d all other br<strong>an</strong>dies show<strong>in</strong>g aga<strong>in</strong> the br<strong>an</strong>d power of the<br />

region.<br />

Cognac’s market is split <strong>in</strong>to 3 major zones, the Far East, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Ch<strong>in</strong>a holds 35.8% of the world<br />

market share, NAFTA (North Americ<strong>an</strong> Free Trade Agreement) 31.2% <strong>an</strong>d Europe with 28.8%. More th<strong>an</strong><br />

5 bottles of Cognac is sold <strong>in</strong> the world every second result<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> 162.9 million bottles sold <strong>in</strong> 2011.<br />

The table below shows how Cognac has <strong>in</strong>creased its dom<strong>in</strong><strong>an</strong>ce <strong>in</strong> each of the major markets, only<br />

los<strong>in</strong>g ground <strong>in</strong> Norway. The other very <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g fact is the strength of the three star <strong>an</strong>d VS styles <strong>in</strong><br />

all the traditional markets. Only Ch<strong>in</strong>a <strong>an</strong>d S<strong>in</strong>gapore show greater success on the more premium styles,<br />

VSOP <strong>an</strong>d above.<br />

Figure 4: The trend <strong>in</strong> Cognac's major markets<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

(BNIC, http://www.cognac.fr, 2012)<br />

In 2011 <strong>South</strong> Africa’s Br<strong>an</strong>dy exports was 907,995 litres both packaged <strong>an</strong>d bulk. Kenya was the biggest<br />

importer of bulk <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> with 213,704 litres <strong>an</strong>d 29,077 litres of packaged <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> totall<strong>in</strong>g 242,782 litres.<br />

Zimbabwe is the second biggest with 105,483 litres of packaged <strong>an</strong>d 51,720 litres of bulk <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong><br />

totall<strong>in</strong>g 157,203 litres, followed by Fr<strong>an</strong>ce with 123,853 litres of bulk potstill <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> (<strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>gly<br />

there were 1,425,288 litres of grape spirit also sold to Fr<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>in</strong> 2011).<br />

Other <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g export figures are that <strong>South</strong> Africa exported only 17,003 litres to the India, the<br />

world’s largest market as well as 85,896 litres of grape spirit. The United K<strong>in</strong>gdom imported 19’549<br />

litres of packaged <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> from <strong>South</strong> Africa.<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa exported 1’404 litres of packaged <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> to the United States of America (Cognac’s largest<br />

market) <strong>an</strong>d 4’965 litres of packaged <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> to Ch<strong>in</strong>a (Cognac’s 3 rd largest market). S<strong>in</strong>gapore which is<br />

Cognac’s 2 nd largest market never imported a s<strong>in</strong>gle litre form <strong>South</strong> Africa <strong>in</strong> 2010 or 2011.<br />

Disappo<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g how poor our success is <strong>in</strong> our largest competitor’s ma<strong>in</strong> markets, there is a major<br />

possibility for future market growth here.<br />

It is clear that the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry is <strong>in</strong> a healthy position, with good sales figures with<strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa <strong>an</strong>d good export figures <strong>in</strong> most of the major markets. The trend however is a negative one,<br />

as Table 7 on page shows that the consumption of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> decl<strong>in</strong>ed by 5.8% <strong>in</strong> 2010 from 2009 figures.<br />

Table 5 also shows the stable decl<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> the percentage of br<strong>an</strong>dies market share from 42.7% <strong>in</strong> 2008 to<br />

41.1% <strong>in</strong> 2009 <strong>an</strong>d 39% <strong>in</strong> 2010.<br />

The cont<strong>in</strong>ued success at <strong>in</strong>ternational competitions for <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> producers, the Br<strong>an</strong>dy festival’s<br />

cont<strong>in</strong>ued growth <strong>an</strong>d the buoy<strong>an</strong>t nature of the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> market as a whole with persistent growth <strong>in</strong><br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

the major markets of both Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>an</strong>d Cognac it shows that the trend c<strong>an</strong> be turned around. With<br />

greater focus, better exposure for the category <strong>an</strong>d the <strong>in</strong>crease <strong>in</strong> market<strong>in</strong>g fund<strong>in</strong>g for the <strong>South</strong><br />

<strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy Foundation, <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> c<strong>an</strong> become a stronger player <strong>in</strong> both the local <strong>an</strong>d<br />

<strong>in</strong>ternational markets.<br />

It is time to challenge the status quo <strong>an</strong>d take the market <strong>an</strong>d its key players head on.<br />

1.2 The Scope of the report<br />

The aim of this report is to cover all the aspects of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> through the <strong>in</strong>vestigation of the major <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong><br />

produc<strong>in</strong>g countries <strong>an</strong>d with regards to Fr<strong>an</strong>ce, its regions.<br />

The term ‘<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’ is all too often used to describe a distilled spirit derived from <strong>an</strong>y number of different<br />

fruits. This report will only focus on <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> derived from ‘grapes’ <strong>an</strong>d more specifically those derived<br />

from ‘grape w<strong>in</strong>e’. A basic description of Husk Br<strong>an</strong>dy is <strong>in</strong>cluded only as a comparison with<strong>in</strong> the scope<br />

of Itali<strong>an</strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> production, as Grappa, Grappa Br<strong>an</strong>dy, Husk Br<strong>an</strong>dy, Marc Br<strong>an</strong>dy or Pomace Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

do not fall with<strong>in</strong> the scope of this report.<br />

The production methods, types <strong>an</strong>d styles of br<strong>an</strong>dies from the ma<strong>in</strong> produc<strong>in</strong>g regions are covered <strong>in</strong><br />

the report as well as how they compare to the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> styles <strong>an</strong>d how they compete with <strong>South</strong><br />

Africa by me<strong>an</strong>s of a Strengths, weaknesses, opportunities <strong>an</strong>d threats <strong>an</strong>alysis.<br />

The report also looks at the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>an</strong>d outl<strong>in</strong>es opportunities <strong>an</strong>d idea for future<br />

market<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

1.3 The Outl<strong>in</strong>e of the Document<br />

Chapter 2 touches on the history of distillation <strong>an</strong>d <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. I believe know<strong>in</strong>g where you come from<br />

helps <strong>in</strong> know<strong>in</strong>g where you are go<strong>in</strong>g. It also covers the serv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d enjoyment of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

Chapter 3 covers <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d its biggest competitors on the local <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />

markets.<br />

Chapter 4 covers the other countries that produce <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> on a signific<strong>an</strong>t scale conclud<strong>in</strong>g with a table<br />

cover<strong>in</strong>g the import<strong>an</strong>t differences of all those covered.<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Chapter 5 highlights the success of <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> with <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>an</strong>d local competition<br />

results.<br />

Chapters 6 <strong>an</strong>d 7 touch on obstacles slow<strong>in</strong>g br<strong>an</strong>dies popularity <strong>an</strong>d ways to address this.<br />

Chapter 8 covers the Br<strong>an</strong>dy Festival, its success <strong>an</strong>d its future.<br />

Chapter 9 <strong>in</strong>cludes the tables with the statistics of the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d spirits <strong>in</strong>dustry to provide<br />

<strong>context</strong> for comparison.<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

2 History of Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

“Salt water when it turns <strong>in</strong>to vapour becomes sweet, <strong>an</strong>d the vapour does not form salt water when it<br />

condenses aga<strong>in</strong>. This I know by experiment. The same th<strong>in</strong>g is true <strong>in</strong> every case of the k<strong>in</strong>d: w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d all<br />

fluids that evaporate <strong>an</strong>d condense back <strong>in</strong>to a liquid state become water. They all are water modified by<br />

a certa<strong>in</strong> admixture, the nature of which determ<strong>in</strong>es their flavour.”<br />

(Aristotle, 350BC)<br />

This passage shows the existence of distillation <strong>in</strong> 350BC with Aristotle describ<strong>in</strong>g his distillation<br />

experiment.<br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to the book: “The Complete Technology Book on Herbal Perfumes & Cosmetics” by H. P<strong>an</strong>da,<br />

the first proof of distillation was a primitive still dated to 3000 BC <strong>in</strong> the Indus Valley. A vessel that is<br />

described as “unquestionably a still’ was dated to 2000 BC, found <strong>in</strong> Afgh<strong>an</strong>ist<strong>an</strong>. These are believed to<br />

have been used for the production of o<strong>in</strong>tments <strong>an</strong>d fragr<strong>an</strong>ces. (H.P<strong>an</strong>da, 2005)<br />

The first known alcoholic distillation was around 800 BC when The Ch<strong>in</strong>ese were distill<strong>in</strong>g rice beer <strong>an</strong>d<br />

the East Indi<strong>an</strong>s were distill<strong>in</strong>g Arak, a spirit distilled from sugar c<strong>an</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d rice.<br />

800 AD was the dawn of modern distill<strong>in</strong>g with the development of the Alembic (or Alambic, me<strong>an</strong><strong>in</strong>g<br />

‘that which ref<strong>in</strong>es; which tr<strong>an</strong>smutes’) by Arab alchemist Jabir ibn Hayy<strong>an</strong>, generally known as the<br />

father of chemistry.<br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to the Oxford W<strong>in</strong>e Comp<strong>an</strong>y, the Armagnac region <strong>in</strong> Fr<strong>an</strong>ce was distill<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> 1414,<br />

us<strong>in</strong>g stills <strong>an</strong>d techniques from the Moors. Yet <strong>in</strong> the book ‘‘”, written by Prior Vital Dufour <strong>an</strong>d pr<strong>in</strong>ted<br />

<strong>in</strong> 1531, it has been dated to the year 1310. In the book it refers to the grape spirit of Armagnac.<br />

(Chapm<strong>an</strong>, 2011) (Dufour, 1531)<br />

It is also th<strong>an</strong>ks to the Dutch that we have the pleasure of dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g Br<strong>an</strong>dy, or ‘Br<strong>an</strong>dewijn’.<br />

It was <strong>in</strong> the 16 th Century AD while the Dutch were active <strong>in</strong> trade <strong>an</strong>d other <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d around the<br />

city of Cognac, Fr<strong>an</strong>ce when they first distilled the highly acclaimed w<strong>in</strong>es of Cognac to preserve them<br />

for the long journey back to Holl<strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong>d its other colonies around the world.<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

By the 17 th Century the Dutch had <strong>in</strong>stalled stills from Holl<strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> the Charente region <strong>an</strong>d the process<br />

was then cont<strong>in</strong>uously modified <strong>in</strong> the region until the double distillation method was developed.<br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac on the Le Cognac website, the legend of the<br />

orig<strong>in</strong> of the second distillation is as follows:<br />

“Legend has it that double distillation was <strong>in</strong>vented by the Chevalier de la Croix Maron, Lord of Segonzac,<br />

a pious m<strong>an</strong> who dreamt that Sat<strong>an</strong> was try<strong>in</strong>g to damn his soul. In his dream, he saw himself <strong>in</strong> the<br />

Devil’s cauldron, but his faith was so deeply <strong>an</strong>chored <strong>in</strong> his soul that it resisted the first ‘cook<strong>in</strong>g’. To<br />

achieve his ends, the Devil was forced to ‘cook’ it aga<strong>in</strong>. When he woke up, the Chevalier had the idea of<br />

extract<strong>in</strong>g the ‘soul’ of eau-de-vie with a second distillation.” (BNIC, Cognac, 2010)<br />

It was <strong>in</strong> 1672, on the 19 th May, that the first Br<strong>an</strong>dy was distilled <strong>in</strong> the <strong>Cape</strong> by a chef on the Dutch<br />

Ship ‘De Pijl’.<br />

Later a delayed shipment of the ‘Br<strong>an</strong>dwijn’ made the benefit of cask maturation clear to the Dutch.<br />

Hence the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> we dr<strong>in</strong>k today is not too dissimilar <strong>in</strong> the nature of the spirit to that made <strong>in</strong> the early<br />

17 th Century.<br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to w<strong>in</strong>e d<strong>an</strong>cer the first fortification of Port w<strong>in</strong>e was done <strong>in</strong> Lamego <strong>in</strong> 1678 but was only<br />

more widely done by mid-18 th Century, where <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> was added to the Port w<strong>in</strong>e to stabilise it for<br />

extended life. (w<strong>in</strong>ed<strong>an</strong>cer.com, 2010)<br />

The first production of Marsala, the fortified w<strong>in</strong>e of Sicily was recorded to be <strong>in</strong> 1773.<br />

“Fortification though was a technique used <strong>in</strong> the Jerez region <strong>in</strong> Spa<strong>in</strong> s<strong>in</strong>ce 1492”, taken from “A<br />

movable feast: ten millennia of food globalization” (Kiple, 2007)<br />

2.1 Serv<strong>in</strong>g, tast<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d enjoy<strong>in</strong>g <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong><br />

The glass <strong>an</strong>d the temperature of the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is extremely import<strong>an</strong>t, it accentuates the positives <strong>in</strong> the<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d softens the harsher characteristics such as the high alcohol.<br />

“Traditionally a snifter is used to taste Armagnac. Smaller, more tapered glasses, however, help focus<br />

Armagnac’s aromas better th<strong>an</strong> m<strong>an</strong>y balloon glasses. Specific glasses have been designed which help<br />

concentrate <strong>an</strong> Armagnac’s flavours, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Riedel's spirits or <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> glasses. Th<strong>in</strong> glass is extremely<br />

Page 16 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

import<strong>an</strong>t <strong>in</strong> heighten<strong>in</strong>g aromatics: thick-glass snifters belong on thrift store shelves rather th<strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong> the<br />

h<strong>an</strong>ds of connoisseurs”.<br />

“Warm<strong>in</strong>g the glass <strong>in</strong> one's h<strong>an</strong>d is pleasurable yet causes the alcohol aromas to surface before those<br />

of the fruit. Consequently, one normally holds a <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> glass by the base, like one would hold a w<strong>in</strong>e<br />

glass. Believe it or not, some people th<strong>in</strong>k they should heat the glass with a c<strong>an</strong>dle before serv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong><br />

Armagnac: these people should be rem<strong>in</strong>ded of Richard Pryor's mishaps with heated glass!”<br />

(Neal, 2011)<br />

Unless you are <strong>in</strong> a log cab<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> the Swiss Alps or <strong>in</strong> Whistler, C<strong>an</strong>ada <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> of <strong>an</strong>y k<strong>in</strong>d should never be<br />

heated. Heat<strong>in</strong>g it does noth<strong>in</strong>g but release the more volatile subst<strong>an</strong>ces <strong>in</strong> the glass. Alcohol is released<br />

<strong>an</strong>d not much else. All this does is hide the aromas <strong>an</strong>d complexities <strong>in</strong> the glass <strong>an</strong>d burn one’s nose.<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

3 Br<strong>an</strong>dy from around the world.<br />

This Chapter covers the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> produc<strong>in</strong>g countries <strong>an</strong>d regions with<strong>in</strong> those countries where<br />

applicable. The countries below represent the most import<strong>an</strong>t producers with<strong>in</strong> the category.<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa is the first of the countries to be discussed <strong>in</strong> detail. All the subsequent countries <strong>an</strong>d<br />

regions will be compared to <strong>an</strong>d discussed with reference to <strong>South</strong> Africa.<br />

The regions that follow <strong>South</strong> Africa have been put <strong>in</strong> order of market dom<strong>in</strong><strong>an</strong>ce <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> order of who is<br />

believed to be the major competitors to <strong>South</strong> Africa. Also <strong>in</strong>cluded are the major br<strong>an</strong>ds from each<br />

region or country covered <strong>an</strong>d those available <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa where applicable.<br />

In conclusion there is a table compar<strong>in</strong>g the ma<strong>in</strong> factors <strong>in</strong> the production of each of the major regions.<br />

3.1 <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy has become a part of <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> society ever s<strong>in</strong>ce the first distillation on ‘de Pijl’ ship docked<br />

off the shores of <strong>South</strong> Africa on the 19 th May 1692. Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>an</strong>d ‘Br<strong>an</strong>dewyn’ as it is more commonly<br />

known <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa, are seen as a dr<strong>in</strong>k to get drunk by dr<strong>in</strong>kers <strong>an</strong>d not connoisseurs <strong>an</strong>d to be<br />

mixed with Cola <strong>an</strong>d not much else.<br />

The def<strong>in</strong>ition <strong>in</strong> class of dr<strong>in</strong>k between Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>an</strong>d Whiskey is massive. Whiskey <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> particular,<br />

S<strong>in</strong>gle Malts, which has seen a rapid growth <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa over the past several years, is seen as a<br />

sophisticated dr<strong>in</strong>k, a dr<strong>in</strong>k for the upper classes, to be enjoyed neat <strong>an</strong>d savoured.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy on the other h<strong>an</strong>d is seen as a ‘common’ dr<strong>in</strong>k. One c<strong>an</strong> only dr<strong>in</strong>k it with a 2 litre Coke <strong>an</strong>d then<br />

get really rowdy <strong>an</strong>d cause heaps of trouble. The old 1, 2, 3 stigma of a 1 litre <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>, 2 litre Coke <strong>an</strong>d a<br />

3 litre Ford is still attached to the category.<br />

The Ironic fact is that the ‘class’ of people <strong>an</strong>d the noise levels <strong>in</strong>side the ‘Whiskey Live Festival” <strong>an</strong>d the<br />

“Br<strong>an</strong>dy Festival” are very different. Both held at the S<strong>an</strong>dton Convention Centre <strong>in</strong> Joh<strong>an</strong>nesburg, it is<br />

the Whiskey festival that see’s the serious over <strong>in</strong>dulgence. I have seen people carried out after way too<br />

much.<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

The <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> festival on the other h<strong>an</strong>d is quieter with far less ‘drunkenness’.<br />

The bad image of the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> category c<strong>an</strong> directly be associated to the success of a br<strong>an</strong>d. And well<br />

done to that br<strong>an</strong>d for its own successes even though it hasn’t helped the category <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>y way.<br />

“Klippies <strong>an</strong>d Cola” is synonymous with <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. In fact m<strong>an</strong>y <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong>s do not differentiate<br />

between the two. All <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is Klippies <strong>an</strong>d all Klippies is <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>, which is brilli<strong>an</strong>t for the br<strong>an</strong>d but not<br />

necessarily good for the category as a whole.<br />

The Klipdrift Export advertis<strong>in</strong>g campaigns, I feel does noth<strong>in</strong>g for <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> as a whole. In all their adverts<br />

they show it be<strong>in</strong>g consumed neat or on the rocks. Why do they portray it <strong>in</strong> this way when it is<br />

designed to be had with a mixer? It is not best drunk on the rocks. If a non-<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> dr<strong>in</strong>ker tries it <strong>in</strong> this<br />

way they may not try <strong>an</strong>other <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> designed for that way of dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Klipdrift though is now do<strong>in</strong>g its bit more recently to uplift the category. With the release of its Klipdrift<br />

Gold, a superb pot still <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> with the styl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d the quality of it marketed under the same br<strong>an</strong>d is<br />

show<strong>in</strong>g the consumer what <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is capable of.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>an</strong>d serious styles of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> are becom<strong>in</strong>g really popular to make, at least by the grow<strong>in</strong>g<br />

number of <strong>Cape</strong> w<strong>in</strong>eries that are produc<strong>in</strong>g small qu<strong>an</strong>tities of Pot Still <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> of the highest quality<br />

with the packag<strong>in</strong>g to match.<br />

Now it’s just a matter of gett<strong>in</strong>g the consumer to sit up <strong>an</strong>d take notice.<br />

The biggest problem is the distribution of the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>, both <strong>in</strong> the retail outlets <strong>an</strong>d the on-licence<br />

venues, the bars, restaur<strong>an</strong>ts <strong>an</strong>d clubs.<br />

As <strong>an</strong> example, I bought a bottle of Collision’s White Gold Br<strong>an</strong>dy at two different retailers, one <strong>an</strong><br />

<strong>in</strong>dependent retailer, the other a cha<strong>in</strong>. In neither shop did the assist<strong>an</strong>t or the person operat<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

cash register know what it was. They all asked me what it was as if they had never seen such a th<strong>in</strong>g<br />

before.<br />

I have seen it m<strong>an</strong>y times too that the ‘Flight of the Fish Eagle’ pot still <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is on the shelf <strong>in</strong> the<br />

Whiskey section. I have even had <strong>an</strong> argument with a shop assist<strong>an</strong>t about it be<strong>in</strong>g a <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. Job done I<br />

suppose from the br<strong>an</strong>ds perspective. It was, after all, designed <strong>an</strong>d released to compete directly with<br />

the Whiskey market <strong>an</strong>d J&B <strong>in</strong> particular.<br />

Page 19 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

A few th<strong>in</strong>gs bother me about <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy. Firstly the producers (<strong>an</strong>d the country as a whole)<br />

do not receive the recognition it (we) deserve. <strong>South</strong> Africa is the most successful <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> produc<strong>in</strong>g<br />

country <strong>in</strong> the world, hav<strong>in</strong>g won the ‘Best Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>in</strong> the World’ title from the International W<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d<br />

Spirits Competition, the ‘IWSC’ held <strong>in</strong> London more th<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>y other country. A <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> has<br />

won the title 13 out of the last 21 years <strong>an</strong>d 10 times <strong>in</strong> the last 13 years (<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g the last 5 years <strong>in</strong> a<br />

row). The Laborie Alambic Br<strong>an</strong>dy (5 year old) was the 2010 title holder, <strong>an</strong>d the Distell V<strong>an</strong> Ry<strong>an</strong>’s 20<br />

year old the current 2011 title holder(results released <strong>in</strong> August 2011). KWV 10 Year old is also the 2011<br />

International Spirits Challenge Best Br<strong>an</strong>dy Trophy W<strong>in</strong>ner.<br />

But even with the successes the page space we are given <strong>in</strong> books <strong>an</strong>d websites on <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is m<strong>in</strong>imal.<br />

The book “Whiskey <strong>an</strong>d Spirits for Dummies“ gives more space to Germ<strong>an</strong> We<strong>in</strong>br<strong>an</strong>d th<strong>an</strong> it gives<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa. Are we do<strong>in</strong>g enough to market ourselves <strong>in</strong>ternationally? Are we do<strong>in</strong>g enough to<br />

market ourselves locally for that matter?<br />

No I do not th<strong>in</strong>k we are. A lot needs to be done to raise the profile of our national spirit both locally <strong>an</strong>d<br />

<strong>in</strong>ternationally. The market<strong>in</strong>g aspect will be discussed further <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> detail <strong>in</strong> Chapters 9 -11.<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa has probably the strictest <strong>an</strong>d most concise <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> legislation <strong>in</strong> the world. Hence we are<br />

produc<strong>in</strong>g the most awarded br<strong>an</strong>dies <strong>in</strong> the world.<br />

i) The regions<br />

Figure 5: Map of the Western <strong>Cape</strong>'s w<strong>in</strong>e regions<br />

Page 20 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

(www.w<strong>in</strong>e.co.za, 2010)<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy c<strong>an</strong> be produced from grapes from <strong>an</strong>y region <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa with<strong>in</strong> the boundaries of the<br />

current ‘W<strong>in</strong>e of Orig<strong>in</strong> system’.<br />

The majority of grapes sourced for the production of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> come from the warmer regions of the<br />

Or<strong>an</strong>ge River, Olif<strong>an</strong>ts River, Worcester, the Breede River <strong>an</strong>d the Little Karoo regions.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy has no requirement to have a ‘w<strong>in</strong>e of orig<strong>in</strong>’ declaration on the label unless it specifies that it is<br />

<strong>an</strong> ‘Estate Br<strong>an</strong>dy’. As <strong>an</strong> estate <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> it will have to be made exclusively from grapes grown, w<strong>in</strong>e<br />

made, distilled, aged, blended <strong>an</strong>d bottled on the estate, therefore specify<strong>in</strong>g its orig<strong>in</strong>.<br />

ii) Grape Varieties.<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> producers have no limitation on the grape varieties that c<strong>an</strong> be used except they<br />

have to be with<strong>in</strong> the regulations of st<strong>an</strong>dard w<strong>in</strong>e mak<strong>in</strong>g; 90% of the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> produced is from<br />

Colombard <strong>an</strong>d Chen<strong>in</strong> Bl<strong>an</strong>c grapes. The rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g 10% is made up from Sult<strong>an</strong>a, Palom<strong>in</strong>o, C<strong>in</strong>sault,<br />

Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c, with very small qu<strong>an</strong>tities of varieties like Chardonnay <strong>an</strong>d P<strong>in</strong>otage.<br />

iii) Harvest <strong>an</strong>d Viticulture<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>e quality is extremely import<strong>an</strong>t <strong>in</strong> the process of mak<strong>in</strong>g f<strong>in</strong>e <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. The adage that one c<strong>an</strong><br />

make <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> from poor subst<strong>an</strong>dard w<strong>in</strong>e is true, but one c<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d will only make poor subst<strong>an</strong>dard<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> as a result. The quality of the w<strong>in</strong>e is directly associated to the quality of the f<strong>in</strong>al <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. In fact<br />

<strong>an</strong>y faults or negatives <strong>in</strong> the w<strong>in</strong>e is, like everyth<strong>in</strong>g else <strong>in</strong> the w<strong>in</strong>e, condensed <strong>an</strong>d concentrated by<br />

distillation <strong>in</strong> the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

Thus only the best quality grapes, which are harvested solely for the production of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>, are used to<br />

make the best possible quality w<strong>in</strong>e to make the best possible quality <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

The grapes are harvested earlier th<strong>an</strong> the grapes for natural w<strong>in</strong>e mak<strong>in</strong>g at about 18° Ball<strong>in</strong>g to<br />

preserve the natural acidity <strong>in</strong> the grape <strong>an</strong>d to keep the sugar content low result<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a lower alcohol<br />

content <strong>in</strong> the dry fermented w<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

iv) V<strong>in</strong>ification.<br />

Only Free run juice is permitted to be used.<br />

Page 21 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

The entire process is a very rushed one with no time to waste as there is no addition of sulphur dioxide<br />

(SO2) allowed to the w<strong>in</strong>e at <strong>an</strong>y stage.<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>e is made <strong>in</strong> the same method as a white w<strong>in</strong>e with as little sk<strong>in</strong> contact as possible. The use of<br />

temperature control to ensure a cold fermentation is critical. The temperature is kept between 15-18°C.<br />

Natural <strong>an</strong>d commercial yeasts (VIN 13, WE372, <strong>an</strong>d WE228) are used as well as the necessary nutrients<br />

such as free am<strong>in</strong>o nitrogen at 600-700mg/l to aid <strong>in</strong> the fermentation.<br />

Fermentation is completed when all the sugars have been converted <strong>in</strong>to alcohol <strong>an</strong>d the w<strong>in</strong>e is totally<br />

dry.<br />

Sediment may only be removed by overnight settl<strong>in</strong>g. The w<strong>in</strong>e should have <strong>an</strong> alcohol content of 10-<br />

12% abv. The Solid content <strong>in</strong> the base w<strong>in</strong>e may not exceed 45% by volume. The total acidity should be<br />

8-10 grams per litre (g/l).The Residual Sugar content may not exceed 4g/l. Volatile acidity may not<br />

exceed 0.7g/l <strong>an</strong>d total Sulphur Dioxide may not exceed 20mg/l. None may be added.<br />

Total Polyphenol content may not exceed 250mg/l. The PH needs to be low at approximately 3.26.<br />

The result<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>e is known as ‘base w<strong>in</strong>e’.<br />

v) Distillation<br />

It is import<strong>an</strong>t to note that ‘base w<strong>in</strong>e’ is bought by the big distillers like the KWV <strong>an</strong>d Distell.<br />

Both types of stills are used <strong>in</strong> the production of <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy with vary<strong>in</strong>g percentages of each<br />

allowed <strong>in</strong> the different styles to be produced. Pot still distillate comes from the double distillation from<br />

copper pot stills. W<strong>in</strong>e Spirits come from s<strong>in</strong>gle, cont<strong>in</strong>uous distillation from a column still. All Pot Still<br />

distillation is done on the lees, which <strong>in</strong>cluded fatty acids to produce fatty esters which improve the<br />

flavour <strong>in</strong> the end <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

Pot Still Distillate:<br />

To produce pot still distillate, the base w<strong>in</strong>e needs to undergo distillation twice, both times through a<br />

copper pot still.<br />

The first distillation is noth<strong>in</strong>g more th<strong>an</strong> a concentration process. The base w<strong>in</strong>e enters the pot still <strong>in</strong>to<br />

the pre-heater at 10% abv. Once the still reservoir has been emptied <strong>an</strong>d cle<strong>an</strong>ed from the previous<br />

batch the base w<strong>in</strong>e is pumped <strong>in</strong>to the boiler.<br />

Page 22 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Alcohol boils at 78.3°C <strong>an</strong>d water at 100°C <strong>an</strong>d once the temperature rises <strong>an</strong>d the various boil<strong>in</strong>g po<strong>in</strong>ts<br />

are reached the subst<strong>an</strong>ces with<strong>in</strong> the liquid beg<strong>in</strong>s to vaporize. The temperature <strong>in</strong> the still never<br />

reaches 100°C; the major duty of this process is to elim<strong>in</strong>ate the water from the liquid.<br />

Once the vapour has been condensed, it will be collected, the entire distillate, as the low w<strong>in</strong>e has <strong>an</strong><br />

average alcohol content of 30% BV. The first distillation then concentrates the base w<strong>in</strong>e 3 times.<br />

Unlike Cognac <strong>an</strong>d the small percentage of Armagnac that uses double distillation, <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong><br />

distillers reta<strong>in</strong> the entire first distillation, <strong>an</strong>d there is no splitt<strong>in</strong>g of the heads, heart <strong>an</strong>d tails at this<br />

po<strong>in</strong>t. This Low w<strong>in</strong>e is set aside <strong>an</strong>d stored <strong>in</strong> t<strong>an</strong>k until the entire harvests base w<strong>in</strong>e has been distilled<br />

<strong>in</strong>to low w<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

As a base w<strong>in</strong>e it is very susceptible to spoilage by oxidation but once it has been distilled <strong>in</strong>to a low<br />

w<strong>in</strong>e oxidation is no longer a problem <strong>an</strong>d the low w<strong>in</strong>e c<strong>an</strong> theoretically be kept <strong>in</strong>def<strong>in</strong>itely.<br />

The Second distillation starts as the first. The distillate is separated this time <strong>in</strong>to the heads, the heart<br />

<strong>an</strong>d the tails. The Heads are the first 10 to 15 m<strong>in</strong>utes of the condens<strong>in</strong>g distillate, which comprise of<br />

the low temperate vapours which are not w<strong>an</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. These are discarded <strong>an</strong>d redistilled with<br />

later batches.<br />

The Heart, the pure essence of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>, is what’s kept <strong>an</strong>d aged <strong>in</strong> barrel. It has average alcohol strength<br />

of 70% abv.<br />

The Tails which are also unw<strong>an</strong>ted, are discarded <strong>an</strong>d redistilled with a later batch to makes up the f<strong>in</strong>al<br />

portion of the distillate, the higher alcohols <strong>an</strong>d other compounds that vaporise at higher temperatures.<br />

Neutral w<strong>in</strong>e spirit:<br />

It is the distillate from a column still, similar to the still used to make Armagnac, yet far larger.<br />

The reason why Armagnac <strong>an</strong>d the other <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’s around the world who use column still to produce<br />

quality <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d not neutral spirit is the larger the column (higher, with more plates) the higher the<br />

result<strong>in</strong>g alcohol <strong>an</strong>d more neutral the spirit.<br />

The column at Chateau Garreau <strong>in</strong> Armagnac is approximately four metres tall <strong>in</strong> total height <strong>an</strong>d has six<br />

plates. The column stills at the Distell pl<strong>an</strong>t <strong>in</strong> Worcester are +- 15 meters tall with 20 plates <strong>an</strong>d each<br />

Page 23 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

still is one of a series of six. The result is the spirit that comes from the sixth still has alcohol strength of<br />

96.4% abv. It is perfectly clear <strong>in</strong> colour <strong>an</strong>d has no aroma or flavour; it is neutral <strong>an</strong>d just pure alcohol.<br />

The distillate will either go <strong>in</strong>to oak casks or (the majority) will go <strong>in</strong>to sta<strong>in</strong>less steel t<strong>an</strong>k for later use.<br />

vi) Age<strong>in</strong>g<br />

All pot still distillate has to be aged <strong>in</strong> French oak barrels for a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 3 years. The capacity of the<br />

barrels c<strong>an</strong> be no larger th<strong>an</strong> 340 litres.<br />

The <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>, depend<strong>in</strong>g on its required style, will go <strong>in</strong>to vary<strong>in</strong>g barrels of different ages, different<br />

toast<strong>in</strong>g levels for different lengths of time.<br />

Flight of the Fish Eagle for <strong>in</strong>st<strong>an</strong>ce is matured for 3 years <strong>in</strong> much older barrels to ensure as little<br />

colour<strong>in</strong>g, t<strong>an</strong>n<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d flavours been imparted <strong>in</strong>to the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Ry<strong>an</strong>’s 15 year old though will spend its youth <strong>in</strong> younger, even new oak to ga<strong>in</strong> as much flavour<br />

<strong>an</strong>d colour, then will be racked <strong>in</strong>to older <strong>an</strong>d older barrels as the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> ages.<br />

As <strong>in</strong> every maturation cellar the <strong>an</strong>gels take their share, depend<strong>in</strong>g on the humidity <strong>an</strong> average of 3% of<br />

the contents are lost. The cellars <strong>in</strong> the Distell Worcester distillery have such a pungent alcohol aroma;<br />

the air is literally heavy <strong>an</strong>d moist with the alcohol <strong>in</strong> it. Spend<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong> hour <strong>in</strong> the cellar one leaves light<br />

headed.<br />

If the bottle carries <strong>an</strong> age stipulation, like the KWV 10 year old, the youngest component <strong>in</strong> the blend<br />

needs to be a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 10 years (with the exception of un-aged neutral spirit).<br />

vii) Styles of <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong><br />

There are 3 styles of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> made <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa, <strong>an</strong>d all <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> must be one of these styles. The<br />

percentages below are percentages of the total alcohol volume, not the volume of the bottle. The 30%<br />

Pot still distillate <strong>in</strong> blended <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is 30% of the 43% alcohol by volume content <strong>in</strong> the bottle.<br />

Blended (or st<strong>an</strong>dard) <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>:<br />

These would simply be labelled <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

All Blended <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is bottled at 43% abv.<br />

It is bottled at 40% abv for the export market.<br />

The makeup of a bottle is as follows:<br />

Page 24 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

30% M<strong>in</strong>imum of Pot still distillate matured <strong>in</strong> oak for a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 3 years.<br />

70% Maximum of Neutral spirit un-matured.<br />

Blended br<strong>an</strong>dies are designed to be consumed with a mixer. The ris<strong>in</strong>g Mixology <strong>an</strong>d cocktail culture<br />

<strong>an</strong>d the popularity of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d cola are what drive this style. Examples are Klipdrift Export, Klipdrift<br />

Premium, Bols, Mellow-wood <strong>an</strong>d KWV 3 year old.<br />

V<strong>in</strong>tage <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>:<br />

V<strong>in</strong>tage <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> fit between the blended <strong>an</strong>d the Pot Still styles, although over lapp<strong>in</strong>g the Pot Still<br />

category <strong>in</strong> m<strong>an</strong>y respects.<br />

All V<strong>in</strong>tage <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> must be bottled with a m<strong>in</strong>imum alcohol content of 38% abv, with most of the<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’s with<strong>in</strong> this category bottled at 40% abv.<br />

The makeup of the alcohol content <strong>in</strong> the bottle is:<br />

30% M<strong>in</strong>imum of Pot still distillate matured <strong>in</strong> oak for a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 8 years.<br />

60% Maximum of Neutral spirit matured <strong>in</strong> oak for a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 8 years.<br />

10% Maximum of Neutral spirit un-matured.<br />

The result is a <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> with a very obvious ‘wood’ character. It is generally high <strong>in</strong> wood t<strong>an</strong>n<strong>in</strong> which<br />

one c<strong>an</strong> feel on the palate. The aged spirit portion of the blend c<strong>an</strong> only absorb the oak characteristics<br />

dur<strong>in</strong>g its time <strong>in</strong> the barrel as it beg<strong>in</strong>s with no aroma or flavour.<br />

The age stipulated on the label is the m<strong>in</strong>imum age required for both the pot still <strong>an</strong>d matured spirit<br />

components. If the label is 10 year old the m<strong>in</strong>imum age for both is 10 years <strong>in</strong> oak barrels.<br />

This style c<strong>an</strong> be used <strong>in</strong> mixers, although the ‘wood matured’ characteristics may overwhelm some<br />

mixers. It is designed to be drunk neat, with water or over ice.<br />

There are only three br<strong>an</strong>dies’ that have been classified as V<strong>in</strong>tage, those be<strong>in</strong>g:<br />

Oude Molen 100 Reserve 40% abv<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Ryn’s 10 year old V<strong>in</strong>tage <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> 38% abv<br />

KWV 10 year old, 38% abv. This is the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> that crosses over <strong>an</strong>d c<strong>an</strong> be classified as V<strong>in</strong>tage or Pot<br />

Still as it is made entirely from pure Pot still distillate yet is classified as a V<strong>in</strong>tage <strong>an</strong>d carries the word<br />

V<strong>in</strong>tage ‘on the bottle. Presumably it rema<strong>in</strong>s a V<strong>in</strong>tage to allow the master distiller to ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong> the<br />

house style <strong>an</strong>d specifically the 10 year old style.<br />

Page 25 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Pot Still Br<strong>an</strong>dy:<br />

This is the premium style category of <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. This is the purest of the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> styles <strong>an</strong>d is<br />

designed us<strong>in</strong>g the Cognac template. These br<strong>an</strong>dies are me<strong>an</strong>t to be savoured, to be enjoyed neat <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> balloons, or with a drop of water, a dash of soda or a block of ice.<br />

It is also the most excit<strong>in</strong>g category <strong>an</strong>d the category that is rack<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the <strong>in</strong>ternational awards.<br />

The makeup of Pot Still <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is as follows:<br />

90% M<strong>in</strong>imum of Pot still distillate matured <strong>in</strong> oak for a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 3 years.<br />

10% Maximum of Neutral spirit un-matured.<br />

Most Pot still <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is <strong>in</strong> fact 100% Pot Still distillate. All Pot Still <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is bottled with the m<strong>in</strong>imum of<br />

38% abv, with several be<strong>in</strong>g at 40% abv. There is literally a Pot Still Br<strong>an</strong>dy for everyone’s palate.<br />

The Collison’s White Gold <strong>an</strong>d the Flight of the Fish Eagle are the perfect <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’s to start the journey<br />

<strong>in</strong>to f<strong>in</strong>e <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. They are light, fruity <strong>an</strong>d soft, yet still be<strong>in</strong>g full bodied <strong>an</strong>d complex, how pot still<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> should be.<br />

Other Pot Still Br<strong>an</strong>dy’s are:<br />

KWV 15 <strong>an</strong>d 20 year old.<br />

Oude Molen Solera matured us<strong>in</strong>g the Sp<strong>an</strong>ish Solera system, <strong>an</strong>d their S<strong>in</strong>gle Cask Reserve.<br />

Oude Meester Dem<strong>an</strong>t, Reserve <strong>an</strong>d Sovereign.<br />

There is a fourth category of <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy; it is not a style of Br<strong>an</strong>dy but a ‘Br<strong>an</strong>dy of Orig<strong>in</strong><br />

category’ if you like.<br />

Estate Br<strong>an</strong>dy:<br />

This is a designation of proven<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>an</strong>d not a style. It <strong>in</strong>dicates <strong>an</strong>d guar<strong>an</strong>tees that the grapes were<br />

sourced, the base w<strong>in</strong>e made, distilled, matured <strong>an</strong>d bottled on the Estate.<br />

All Estate Br<strong>an</strong>dy still has to fall <strong>in</strong>to one of the 3 Style categories, i.e. Either Blended, V<strong>in</strong>tage or Pot Still.<br />

With the requirement <strong>in</strong>volved <strong>in</strong> produc<strong>in</strong>g Blended <strong>an</strong>d V<strong>in</strong>tage styles, hav<strong>in</strong>g to have both pot still<br />

distillate <strong>an</strong>d neutral spirits distilled on the Estate, it is simply too difficult to do the two different<br />

distillations. Thus all but one Estate Br<strong>an</strong>dy is Pot Still with the only exception of the Boplaas 5 year old<br />

Page 26 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Reserve Br<strong>an</strong>dy, which is a Blended. (It is unclear if it is <strong>in</strong> fact technically <strong>an</strong> Estate <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> as the w<strong>in</strong>e<br />

spirits are sourced from the KWV.)<br />

The other factor is if the Estate is go<strong>in</strong>g to go to the expense of produc<strong>in</strong>g small qu<strong>an</strong>tities of Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>an</strong>d<br />

add it to their r<strong>an</strong>ge, it doesn’t make f<strong>in</strong><strong>an</strong>cial sense to enter it <strong>in</strong> the low end of the market. They<br />

almost always represent the top end of the Estates product r<strong>an</strong>ge.<br />

Examples of Estate Br<strong>an</strong>dy are:<br />

Nederberg Solera Pot Still (matured <strong>in</strong> the Solera age<strong>in</strong>g system)<br />

Sydney Back 5 <strong>an</strong>d 10 year old Pot Still br<strong>an</strong>dies.<br />

Kaapzicht Pot Still Br<strong>an</strong>dy 10 year old<br />

Laborie Alambic Pot Still 5 year old<br />

Tokara Pot Still Br<strong>an</strong>dy 5 year old<br />

Boplaas Pot Still Reserve 8 <strong>an</strong>d 20 year old Br<strong>an</strong>dy’s.<br />

1<br />

Figure 6: The <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy Aroma Wheel<br />

1 A comprehensive list of Br<strong>an</strong>dy producers <strong>an</strong>d their products c<strong>an</strong> be found <strong>in</strong> appendix A.<br />

Page 27 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

viii) Conclusion<br />

(Koen)<br />

With the warm to hot climate <strong>an</strong>d the high degree of sunny days the result<strong>in</strong>g b<strong>an</strong>dies are <strong>in</strong>tensely fruit<br />

flavoured <strong>in</strong> their youth show<strong>in</strong>g fresh ripe fruit such as white peaches, pears <strong>an</strong>d or<strong>an</strong>ge blossom. As it<br />

develops <strong>in</strong> the casks it takes on a more dried <strong>an</strong>d macerated fruit<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>an</strong>d spic<strong>in</strong>ess like dried apricot<br />

<strong>an</strong>d c<strong>in</strong>namon but rema<strong>in</strong>s opulent <strong>in</strong> its fruity character. The double distillation <strong>an</strong>d small cask<br />

maturation lends a softness to the f<strong>in</strong>al texture.<br />

ix) An Analysis of strengths, weaknesses, opportunities <strong>an</strong>d threats (SWOT) or<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy with<strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa versus other spirits.<br />

Strengths: The legacy of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> consumption drives sales <strong>in</strong> certa<strong>in</strong> sectors.<br />

The versatility of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> with<strong>in</strong> the cocktail market compared to that of whiskey<br />

c<strong>an</strong>e spirits <strong>an</strong>d dark rums.<br />

The cont<strong>in</strong>ued success of <strong>South</strong> Africa <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> at local <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />

competitions.<br />

Page 28 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Weaknesses: The legacy of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> also has a negative connotation with<strong>in</strong> the non-traditional<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g sectors, such as the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> & coke association.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy is perceived to be a m<strong>an</strong>'s dr<strong>in</strong>k <strong>an</strong>d as a result m<strong>an</strong>y female consumers are<br />

driven away from the category. 2<br />

The Cognac br<strong>an</strong>d is seen as elitist <strong>an</strong>d superior to <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

M<strong>an</strong>y <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong>’s don’t know that Cognac is a <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d refer to it as a type of<br />

spirit. Claim<strong>in</strong>g to enjoy Cognac but don’t dr<strong>in</strong>k <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

The total lack of awareness <strong>in</strong> retail outlets with uneducated staff.<br />

Restaur<strong>an</strong>t owners <strong>an</strong>d staff’s lack of knowledge on what premium or Potstill<br />

br<strong>an</strong>dies are how they should be served.<br />

Very few restaur<strong>an</strong>ts <strong>an</strong>d bars have <strong>an</strong>y <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> balloon glasses.<br />

Opportunities: Capitaliz<strong>in</strong>g on the cocktail market, new <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> based cocktails need to be<br />

designed or exist<strong>in</strong>g ones popularised.<br />

Gender specific market<strong>in</strong>g needs to be aimed at the female audience to make<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> more attractive to them.<br />

The lack of consumer knowledge with regard to <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> such as<br />

Cognac <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac could be capitalised on.<br />

More focus needs to be put on the successes at local <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />

competitions.<br />

Retail, bar <strong>an</strong>d restaur<strong>an</strong>t staff <strong>an</strong>d owners need to be educated <strong>in</strong> the styles of<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d how they should be served. Br<strong>an</strong>dy balloons should be sold or br<strong>an</strong>ded<br />

ones given to the on-licence outlets.<br />

Threats: The rise <strong>in</strong> polarity of vodka <strong>an</strong>d other white spirits <strong>in</strong> cocktail mak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d with<br />

mixers.<br />

The success of the whiskey category both locally made <strong>an</strong>d imported. The premium<br />

whiskey sector is the greatest threat as <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is not seen to be as high end as<br />

whiskey.<br />

2 72% of the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> consumed <strong>in</strong> 2010 <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa was done so by men <strong>an</strong>d only 28% was consumed by the female<br />

market.<br />

Page 29 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

3.2 Fr<strong>an</strong>ce<br />

Fr<strong>an</strong>ce as a country is the major market share holder <strong>in</strong> traditional markets of the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> sector <strong>an</strong>d its<br />

two most prestigious regions, Cognac <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac hold the top two positions <strong>an</strong>d are the most<br />

prestigious of all br<strong>an</strong>dies.<br />

In fact the greater population of spirit dr<strong>in</strong>kers around the world do not know that these 2 spirits are<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

Below both Cognac <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac will be covered <strong>in</strong> detail separately. French Br<strong>an</strong>dy, produced from<br />

<strong>an</strong>ywhere <strong>in</strong> Fr<strong>an</strong>ce is covered thereafter.<br />

The map of Fr<strong>an</strong>ce below highlights the ma<strong>in</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> regions. Cognac <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac <strong>in</strong> the<br />

south west of Fr<strong>an</strong>ce are the only 2 AOC’s for <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. Calvados <strong>in</strong> the North West is the region where<br />

the apple <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>, Calvados is made. French <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> c<strong>an</strong> be made <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>y of the w<strong>in</strong>e grape grow<strong>in</strong>g<br />

regions across the country.<br />

Figure 7: Map of Fr<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>an</strong>d its w<strong>in</strong>e grow<strong>in</strong>g regions<br />

(TheGlobalVillageInn, 2010)<br />

Page 30 of 104


3.2.1 Cognac<br />

Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

With the arrival of the Dutch <strong>in</strong> the 13 th Century <strong>an</strong>d the first stills built <strong>in</strong> the 14 th century the French<br />

modified <strong>an</strong>d perfected the Charentais still as it is today.<br />

After a slump <strong>in</strong> sales <strong>in</strong> the 1990’s Cognac was <strong>in</strong> trouble. Sales were at <strong>an</strong> all-time low. It was seen as<br />

the dr<strong>in</strong>k of old men <strong>in</strong> cigar lounges.<br />

The age of mixology <strong>an</strong>d the rise of the cocktail gave Cognac <strong>an</strong>d the entire spirit category, the rise it<br />

needed.<br />

It was <strong>an</strong> unexpected source that shot Cognac back <strong>in</strong>to fashion <strong>an</strong>d ch<strong>an</strong>ged the way Cognac was<br />

bought <strong>an</strong>d opened a whole new market.<br />

“*Busta+ Give me the Henny, you c<strong>an</strong> give me the Cris<br />

You c<strong>an</strong> pass me the Remi, but the pass the Courvoisier<br />

[Diddy] Give me the ass, you could give me the dough<br />

You c<strong>an</strong> give me 'dro, but pass the Courvoisier<br />

[Busta] Give me some money, you c<strong>an</strong> give me some cars<br />

But you c<strong>an</strong> give me the bitch make sure you pass the Courvoisier<br />

[Diddy] Give me some shit, you c<strong>an</strong> give me the cribs<br />

You c<strong>an</strong> give me whaever just pass the Courvoisier”<br />

Lyrics taken from ‘Pass me the Courvoisier” by Busta Rhymes <strong>an</strong>d P Diddy.<br />

(Rhymes, 2002)<br />

This song made it to 11 on the US charts <strong>an</strong>d 16 on the UK charts <strong>an</strong>d created a wave of cognac sales,<br />

especially <strong>in</strong> the US <strong>an</strong>d with<strong>in</strong> the <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Americ<strong>an</strong> communities. It also started a craze amongst US<br />

Rappers to <strong>in</strong>clude Cognac with<strong>in</strong> their lyrics <strong>an</strong>d even <strong>in</strong>spired one rapper, ‘Ludichris’ to <strong>in</strong>vest <strong>in</strong> a<br />

Cognac br<strong>an</strong>d of his own, Conjure <strong>in</strong> 2009.<br />

Cognac is without a doubt the benchmark <strong>in</strong> the world of Br<strong>an</strong>dy, not only <strong>in</strong> terms of quality alone but<br />

also <strong>in</strong> market<strong>in</strong>g the Cognac br<strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong>d there is a lot for other <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> produc<strong>in</strong>g countries to learn from<br />

them.<br />

Page 31 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

It may be someth<strong>in</strong>g the French are good at. Champagne, w<strong>in</strong>es of Bordeaux, Escargot <strong>an</strong>d Cognac are<br />

terms synonymous with their respective products.<br />

The Cognac br<strong>an</strong>d is so well established that it seems to be a category all on its own <strong>an</strong>d had completely,<br />

although un<strong>in</strong>tentionally, separated itself from other br<strong>an</strong>dies. In fact m<strong>an</strong>y people, a lot of whom<br />

actually consume it, have no idea that Cognac is actually a <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

Cognac is a dr<strong>in</strong>k of superiority, prov<strong>in</strong>g ones status. A truly sophisticated dr<strong>in</strong>k, even the really cheap<br />

<strong>an</strong>d not very good ones have this stature. Yet ‘<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’ is seen as a ‘cheap’ <strong>an</strong>d very unsophisticated,<br />

poor m<strong>an</strong>’s ‘let’s have a fight <strong>in</strong> the car park’ dr<strong>in</strong>k. They are <strong>in</strong> fact one <strong>an</strong>d the same. Cognac is from<br />

Cognac, that’s it.<br />

Or is it? Cognac is as a whole a very good dr<strong>in</strong>k, a well-made spirit of the highest quality. Look beyond<br />

the massive production <strong>an</strong>d it is still a spirit to savour.<br />

So import<strong>an</strong>t is the region <strong>an</strong>d the eau-de-vie that carries its name to the French that <strong>in</strong> 1942 dur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

Second World War, the org<strong>an</strong>isation the ‘Bureau of the retention of w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong> eau-de-vie’ was established<br />

to protect the region <strong>an</strong>d the stock it carried from the Germ<strong>an</strong>’s.<br />

Cognac is dom<strong>in</strong>ated by a small number of producers which are referred to as the ‘big 4’ <strong>an</strong>d all have<br />

beautiful tast<strong>in</strong>g facilities with<strong>in</strong> the city centre.<br />

They are Hennessey, Remy Mart<strong>in</strong>, Martell <strong>an</strong>d Courvoisier.<br />

These 4 produce 85% of the total Cognac regions production <strong>an</strong>d have a 90% market share of the United<br />

States, the largest importer of Cognac, <strong>an</strong>d it is estimated that 60-80% of which is consumed by the<br />

<strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Americ<strong>an</strong> market. (Ste<strong>in</strong>berger, 2008)<br />

Courvoisier is the only producer who doesn’t own <strong>an</strong>y v<strong>in</strong>eyards at all.<br />

Hennessey owns over 178 hectares, Remy Mart<strong>in</strong> 200 hectares <strong>an</strong>d Martell over 400 hectares. Relatively<br />

small ownership consider<strong>in</strong>g the volumes they produce.<br />

Remy Mart<strong>in</strong> has a v<strong>in</strong>eyard ownership program <strong>in</strong> ‘The F<strong>in</strong>e Champagne Alli<strong>an</strong>ce’. Basically they have<br />

given a share of the Remy Mart<strong>in</strong> Comp<strong>an</strong>y to the v<strong>in</strong>eyard owners from whom they purchase the<br />

distillate to secure their support <strong>an</strong>d their <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. (RemyMart<strong>in</strong>, 2011)<br />

In 2008 the top 4 producers went on a drive to secure l<strong>an</strong>d / partners <strong>an</strong>d distillate from as m<strong>an</strong>y<br />

growers as possible, realiz<strong>in</strong>g that they wouldn’t have enough product to supply the market if the<br />

upward trend cont<strong>in</strong>ues.<br />

Page 32 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

In 2010 96.8% of Cognac’s were exported.<br />

“Accord<strong>in</strong>g to Impact Datab<strong>an</strong>k, 4 million cases of cognac were sold <strong>in</strong> the United States last year, more<br />

th<strong>an</strong> double the number a decade ago.”<br />

“In 2007, a record 158 million bottles were sold worldwide”<br />

(Ste<strong>in</strong>berger, 2008)<br />

The USA imported over 50 million bottles of Cognac <strong>in</strong> 2008, see<strong>in</strong>g a 1.3% decl<strong>in</strong>e on 2007.<br />

S<strong>in</strong>gapore is second with over 20 million bottles up 2.5% on 2007 <strong>an</strong>d the UK 3 rd with over 11 million<br />

bottles, a 0.9% decl<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

Cognac produces <strong>an</strong> average of a million bottles each year. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to the Bureau National<br />

Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) the estimated Cognac production from the 1 st August 2010 to the<br />

31st July 2011 is 715,339 hectolitres totall<strong>in</strong>g over 102 million 700ml bottles. (BNIC, 2010)<br />

Over 20 million bottles is lost through evaporation each year which is 14 million bottles more th<strong>an</strong> the<br />

total average production of Armagnac.<br />

(BNIC, 2010)<br />

Cognac was the very first foreign product <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a to have received Geographical protection <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a. On<br />

23 rd of February 2010 the protection agreement was signed <strong>in</strong> Beij<strong>in</strong>g Ch<strong>in</strong>a.<br />

(www.cognac-world.com, 2010)<br />

Cognac is the most expensive dr<strong>in</strong>k <strong>in</strong> the world.<br />

The “Henri IV Dudognon Heritage which cost around $2,000,000 is by far the most expensive alcohol <strong>in</strong><br />

the world. This particular cognac was aged for 100 years <strong>in</strong> barrels that were air dried for five years<br />

before use. The f<strong>in</strong>al product is 41% alcohol (82° proof). Besides the content, the bottle itself has quite a<br />

few characteristic. The bottle is dipped <strong>in</strong> 24k gold <strong>an</strong>d sterl<strong>in</strong>g plat<strong>in</strong>um <strong>an</strong>d adorned with 6,500 brilli<strong>an</strong>t<br />

cut diamonds.”<br />

Page 33 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Figure 8: The Henri IV Dudognon, the most expensive spirit <strong>in</strong> the world<br />

(http://cognac.com, 2009)<br />

(i) The Regions<br />

Figure 9: Map of Cognac <strong>an</strong>d its regions<br />

(www.cognac-knowledge.com, 2010)<br />

Page 34 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

The Cognac region covers 80,000 hectares with over 15,000 v<strong>in</strong>eyard pl<strong>an</strong>tations produc<strong>in</strong>g the grapes<br />

<strong>an</strong>d falls with<strong>in</strong> the Charente´ Department. It follows the Charente River all the way to the Atl<strong>an</strong>tic<br />

Oce<strong>an</strong>, literally border<strong>in</strong>g the northern limit of the region of Bordeaux. The city of Cognac is 120km<br />

north of Bordeaux City <strong>an</strong>d 465 km south west of Paris.<br />

The Cognac region also <strong>in</strong>cludes the isl<strong>an</strong>d of Il de Rey, <strong>in</strong> the Atl<strong>an</strong>tic off the coast near La Rochelle.<br />

The region is sub-divided <strong>in</strong>to grow<strong>in</strong>g areas or Crus.<br />

Gr<strong>an</strong>d Champagne, <strong>in</strong> the heart of the region, directly south of the city of Cognac produces the f<strong>in</strong>est<br />

Cognacs <strong>an</strong>d is the Premier Cru of Cognac. Petit Champagne, is a larger area that almost completely<br />

encircles Gr<strong>an</strong>d Champagne on the Western, <strong>South</strong>ern <strong>an</strong>d Eastern borders. Immediately North West of<br />

Gr<strong>an</strong>d Champagne is the smaller Cru of Borderies. Encircl<strong>in</strong>g them is F<strong>in</strong> Bois <strong>an</strong>d then Bons Bois around<br />

that. Bois Ord<strong>in</strong>aires <strong>an</strong>d Bois Communes are west of that all the way to the Atl<strong>an</strong>tic as well as the isl<strong>an</strong>d<br />

of Il de Rey.<br />

Gr<strong>an</strong>d Champagne:<br />

13,000 hectares of Clay <strong>an</strong>d compact Chalk soils, with up to a 60% limestone content.<br />

Only the best quality will be bottled as ‘Gr<strong>an</strong>d Champagne’ s<strong>in</strong>gle orig<strong>in</strong>.<br />

The Cognac’s are f<strong>in</strong>e, delicate <strong>an</strong>d eleg<strong>an</strong>t.<br />

Petit Champagne:<br />

16,000 hectares of Clay <strong>an</strong>d very compact Chalk.<br />

The result<strong>in</strong>g Cognac’s are as high <strong>in</strong> quality as those of Gr<strong>an</strong>d Champagne but are lighter <strong>an</strong>d less<br />

<strong>in</strong>tense.<br />

F<strong>in</strong>e Champagne:<br />

This is a blend of the 2 Champagne areas, with at least 50% be<strong>in</strong>g Gr<strong>an</strong>d Champagne.<br />

Borderies:<br />

Page 35 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

4,000 hectares on the plateau above the Charente River with unique soils, of clay <strong>an</strong>d fl<strong>in</strong>t stones. The<br />

Cognac’s are rich, fem<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d floral <strong>in</strong> character.<br />

F<strong>in</strong> Bois:<br />

37,000 hectares. Chalky soils similar to the Champagne areas but more red <strong>an</strong>d stony. The Cognacs of<br />

F<strong>in</strong> Bois are dist<strong>in</strong>guished by rich, powerful aromas with some floral <strong>an</strong>d grape notes. It is often used to<br />

soften the younger styles.<br />

Bons Bois:<br />

16,000 hectares of ma<strong>in</strong>ly s<strong>an</strong>dy soils with less chalk. These Cognacs have a fruitier nose but tend to age<br />

quicker <strong>an</strong>d are ma<strong>in</strong>ly blended <strong>in</strong>to younger Cognacs.<br />

Bois Ord<strong>in</strong>aires:<br />

2% of the AOC Cognac. Its soils are s<strong>an</strong>dy. The result<strong>in</strong>g Cognac’s are more salty from the maritime<br />

<strong>in</strong>fluences.<br />

(ii) Grape Varieties:<br />

Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

It is the most pl<strong>an</strong>ted grape variety <strong>in</strong> Cognac, 95% of v<strong>in</strong>eyard pl<strong>an</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs. It is a slow ripener <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong><br />

Cognac with a naturally high acidity, high yields <strong>an</strong>d a hard<strong>in</strong>ess that make it so successful <strong>in</strong> the Cognac<br />

climate <strong>an</strong>d perfect for distillation. It produces low alcohol w<strong>in</strong>es.<br />

Folle Bl<strong>an</strong>che<br />

It produces tight bunches, which c<strong>an</strong> be a concern <strong>in</strong> humid conditions result<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> rot. Over yield<strong>in</strong>g c<strong>an</strong><br />

result <strong>in</strong> berries burst<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the bunch.<br />

Colombard Folign<strong>an</strong><br />

A cross between Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c <strong>an</strong>d Folle Bl<strong>an</strong>che was authorised to be used <strong>in</strong> Cognac <strong>in</strong> 2005.<br />

(iii) Harvest <strong>an</strong>d Viticulture<br />

The harvest starts on a set date by the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) which is<br />

normally <strong>in</strong> the last week of September <strong>an</strong>d will go through most of October however the 2011 harvest<br />

Page 36 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

was brought forward by 2-3 weeks due to the unusually high temperature <strong>an</strong>d is expected to start as<br />

early as the last week <strong>in</strong> August until mid-September.<br />

The dry <strong>an</strong>d warm conditions <strong>an</strong>d the almost total lack of cloud cover have made for a very warm year,<br />

well up on the average 13.5ºC <strong>an</strong>nual temperature average. Almost all of the v<strong>in</strong>eyards <strong>in</strong> Cognac are<br />

harvested mech<strong>an</strong>ically. Only the very small <strong>in</strong>dependent producers still harvest by h<strong>an</strong>d.<br />

Grapes are picked between 18 ° <strong>an</strong>d 22° ball<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

The use of centrifugal pumps is strictly forbidden to tr<strong>an</strong>sport the fruit.<br />

(iv) V<strong>in</strong>ification<br />

The grapes must be fermented immediately after harvest. Press juice is allowed, however not from a<br />

“screw” or Archimedes cont<strong>in</strong>uous type press. Bladder or pneumatic presses or horizontal basket<br />

presses are allowed.<br />

The juice is then fermented, <strong>in</strong> open concrete vats (like at Jensen) or <strong>in</strong> sta<strong>in</strong>less steel t<strong>an</strong>ks (like those at<br />

Hennessey), us<strong>in</strong>g commercial yeasts ‘Saccharomyces cerevisiae’ <strong>an</strong>d Nitrogen for the stimulation of<br />

yeast growth, for 5-7 days to the average alcohol strength between 7-12.5% ABV is permitted. The<br />

maximum volatile acid content is 0.01225 g/l.<br />

Capitalization is prohibited except with<strong>in</strong> the Charente Maritime department where it is on application.<br />

The addition of sulphur dioxide is prohibited.<br />

Malolactic fermentation is not m<strong>an</strong>datory after the alcoholic fermentation. The conversion of Malic<br />

acids to lactic acids does however ensure that the w<strong>in</strong>e is more microbiologically stable, crucial while it<br />

is wait<strong>in</strong>g to be distilled without the aid of so2 to preserve it.<br />

Smaller producers such as Jensen prefer for it not to take place as the higher, sharper acids result <strong>in</strong> a<br />

better spirit.<br />

Page 37 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

(v) Distillation<br />

Figure 10: Diagram of a Potstill<br />

(BNIC, 2010)<br />

Cognac is distilled us<strong>in</strong>g the Charente stills “à repasse”, a copper pot still.<br />

The still uses the batch method <strong>an</strong>d each cognac has to pass through the still twice called ‘chauffes’. All<br />

the w<strong>in</strong>e is distilled with its lees.<br />

12kg grapes = 9 litres w<strong>in</strong>e = 1 litre spirit<br />

1 litre aged for 100 years = 200ml 100 year old cognac<br />

Cognac tears which are the “legs” on the <strong>in</strong>side of the glass are thicker when distilled on the lees.<br />

First distillation:<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>e or ‘brouillis’ is pumped <strong>in</strong>to the stills pre-heater. Once heated <strong>an</strong>d the pot of the still is empty<br />

<strong>an</strong>d cle<strong>an</strong>ed it is pumped <strong>in</strong>to the boiler where it is heated by open flame, now almost exclusively gas.<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>e is boiled <strong>an</strong>d beg<strong>in</strong>s to vaporise. The vapour rises <strong>in</strong>to the head or hat (the different shapes of<br />

the hat helps determ<strong>in</strong>e the flavours of the f<strong>in</strong>al eau-de-vie.<br />

Page 38 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Vapour passes through the sw<strong>an</strong>’s neck <strong>an</strong>d through a copper pipe, through the centre of the pre-heater<br />

(us<strong>in</strong>g the heat from the vaporised spirit to heat the next batch wait<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>side) <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>to the ‘snake’<br />

which is the coil <strong>in</strong> the condenser. The vapours are condensed back <strong>in</strong>to liquid <strong>an</strong>d out the bottom <strong>in</strong>to<br />

t<strong>an</strong>k where the liquid is split <strong>in</strong>to 3 parts, the Head, the Heart <strong>an</strong>d the Tails. The heads <strong>an</strong>d the tails are<br />

not w<strong>an</strong>ted <strong>in</strong> the 2 nd distillation so are redistilled <strong>in</strong> the next first distillation. The Heart which will take<br />

around 9 hours to complete should be between 28 – 32%abv is then kept separate, this portion will later<br />

be distilled a second time.<br />

Second distillation:<br />

The heart of the first distillation, the’ brouillis’ is then returned to the still <strong>in</strong> the same m<strong>an</strong>ner as the<br />

first distillation. The still used for the second distillation may have a capacity no larger th<strong>an</strong> 30hl <strong>an</strong>d<br />

may be filled to a maximum of 25hl. Aga<strong>in</strong> the distillate is split <strong>in</strong>to the heads, heart <strong>an</strong>d tails. The Heads<br />

have <strong>an</strong> alcohol content of between 78-82% abv <strong>an</strong>d are discarded <strong>an</strong>d redistilled aga<strong>in</strong> with the next<br />

batch of brouillis. The heart is the ‘middle’ part of the distillate <strong>an</strong>d will be used for the Cognac <strong>an</strong>d is<br />

put directly <strong>in</strong>to the barrels. It is between 60-78% abv <strong>an</strong>d known as the ‘bonne chauffe’.<br />

The tails, split <strong>in</strong>to the ‘secondes’ the first 30% after the heart then the last 10% are the tails, are then<br />

also elim<strong>in</strong>ated <strong>an</strong>d returned to the still with the next batch. This cut off is done when the alcohol level<br />

drops to 60% abv. This takes about 13 hours to complete.<br />

When the distillation season closes, the stills have to be shut off, on the 31 st March follow<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

harvest.<br />

(vi) Age<strong>in</strong>g<br />

All Cognac has to be aged <strong>in</strong> Oak casks sourced only from Fr<strong>an</strong>ce. Traditionally all the oak used is from<br />

Tronçais (Quersus pedunculata) or the Limous<strong>in</strong> (Quersus sessiliflora) forests. The timber is ‘split’ <strong>an</strong>d<br />

seasoned naturally for a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 3 years.<br />

The casks must have a capacity of 270 – 450 litres.<br />

The Colbert law is followed where 1 tree is pl<strong>an</strong>ted for every one cut down.<br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to www.cognac.fr the age<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> wood has 3 dist<strong>in</strong>ct stages:<br />

Page 39 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Extraction. This is when new eau-de-vie is put <strong>in</strong>to new barrels. The spirit has marked ch<strong>an</strong>ges <strong>in</strong> a short<br />

time, tak<strong>in</strong>g a lot of colour <strong>an</strong>d strong ‘oak’ flavours.<br />

Hydrolysis. This is when the eau-de-vie, “digests the wood”. The colour darkens <strong>an</strong>d the org<strong>an</strong>oleptic<br />

characteristics evolve.<br />

Oxidation. This is the slow exch<strong>an</strong>ge of air through the barrels timber. The colour deepens <strong>an</strong>d stabilizes,<br />

the aromas developed spicy notes as the ‘steamed oak’ aromas mellow. The palate softens <strong>an</strong>d<br />

cont<strong>in</strong>ues to get richer <strong>an</strong>d the all-import<strong>an</strong>t ‘r<strong>an</strong>cio’ characters beg<strong>in</strong> to develop.<br />

(BNIC, 2010)<br />

The cellars are covered with the black fungus that feeds on the alcohol lost known as the “<strong>an</strong>gels share”.<br />

In cognac it is referred to as Torula. In the 19 th century the ‘taxation police’ would look for the black<br />

Torula growth on build<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>an</strong>d homes, a giveaway that there was spirit production tak<strong>in</strong>g place <strong>in</strong>side,<br />

probably illegally.<br />

Once the Cognac reaches maturity it is racked <strong>an</strong>d put <strong>in</strong>to larger very old casks or glass demijohns <strong>an</strong>d<br />

are kept <strong>in</strong> ‘Paradise’ <strong>in</strong> a separate cellar.<br />

The sheer scale of the production with<strong>in</strong> Cognac <strong>an</strong>d its stock hold<strong>in</strong>g are most evident with<strong>in</strong> the age<strong>in</strong>g<br />

process. All the producers do not refer to litres or hectolitres but amounts of barrels, mostly 400-450<br />

litres. Remy Mart<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d has a current stock hold<strong>in</strong>g of 200,000 ‘filled’ barrels <strong>an</strong>d loses <strong>an</strong> average of<br />

6,000 barrels per year <strong>in</strong> the “<strong>an</strong>gels share”. Every two years they have to build a new maturation cellar<br />

to store barrels. Hennessey (with 40.5% of cognac market share) has the largest stock hold<strong>in</strong>gs of<br />

300,000 barrels. They buy <strong>in</strong> 15,000 new casks every year.<br />

27 million bottles is lost <strong>in</strong> Cognac <strong>an</strong>nually to evaporation, Hennessey loses the equivalent of 5 million<br />

bottles alone each year.<br />

The humidity of the cellars is very import<strong>an</strong>t. In a dry cellar with humidity between 40%-60% the<br />

evaporation affects the water content. Water evaporates me<strong>an</strong><strong>in</strong>g it will concentrate the alcohols <strong>an</strong>d<br />

make for a higher alcohol harsher spirit. If the cellar is humid, up to 100% humidity the evaporation<br />

affects the alcohol. The alcohol evaporates, reduc<strong>in</strong>g the strength <strong>in</strong> the cask <strong>an</strong>d soften<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d<br />

smooth<strong>in</strong>g the spirit.<br />

The reduction of the eau-de-vie which is the reduction of the alcohol content to bottl<strong>in</strong>g strength of 40 -<br />

43% abv is done naturally through evaporation but isn’t sufficient so distilled <strong>an</strong>d dem<strong>in</strong>eralised water is<br />

added. It c<strong>an</strong> be added early <strong>an</strong>d then aged with the reduced alcohol or later. Almost always it is done <strong>in</strong><br />

Page 40 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

stages <strong>an</strong>d over a period of time. The marriage of the water <strong>an</strong>d the cognac c<strong>an</strong> also take a long time so<br />

it needs time to come together before bottl<strong>in</strong>g. Bottl<strong>in</strong>g takes place on <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustrial scale with<strong>in</strong> the<br />

major houses. The dem<strong>an</strong>d is too high for them to bottle per order. The small producers bottle per<br />

order.<br />

Cognac is aged by referr<strong>in</strong>g to Compte 0 to Compte 10 <strong>an</strong>d above. Compte is the period from the<br />

harvest date to the follow<strong>in</strong>g 31 st March when the distillation season closes. The Cognac beg<strong>in</strong>s to age at<br />

Compte 0 on the first time it passes the 31 st March at which time it has been distilled, then Compte 1<br />

the next April.<br />

The table below shows the how the Compte age system works. A <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> will only become Compte 0<br />

after it reaches the 1 st April <strong>in</strong> the year after the distillation <strong>an</strong>d will become Compte 1 the follow<strong>in</strong>g<br />

April 1 st <strong>an</strong>d so on. So the m<strong>in</strong>imum requirement for VS is Compte 2, so it will have been <strong>in</strong> barrel for 2<br />

years <strong>an</strong>d 2 months.<br />

Figure 11: Compte age<strong>in</strong>g system<br />

(BNIC, 2010)<br />

Page 41 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Age stipulation <strong>in</strong> Cognac<br />

Style / Type Current 2016 Ch<strong>an</strong>ges<br />

VS M<strong>in</strong> Compte 2 M<strong>in</strong> Compte 2<br />

VSOP M<strong>in</strong> Compte 4 M<strong>in</strong> Compte 4<br />

Napoleon M<strong>in</strong> Compte 6 M<strong>in</strong> Compte 6<br />

XO M<strong>in</strong> Compte 6 M<strong>in</strong> Compte 10<br />

Extra M<strong>in</strong> Compte 6 M<strong>in</strong> Compte 10<br />

Hors d ‘Age M<strong>in</strong> Compte 6 M<strong>in</strong> Compte 10<br />

10 years Old etc. Youngest spirit aged for the<br />

age specified<br />

V<strong>in</strong>tage 100% from that v<strong>in</strong>tage,<br />

s<strong>in</strong>gle cask bottl<strong>in</strong>g with<br />

bottl<strong>in</strong>g date. M<strong>in</strong> 10 years<br />

old.<br />

Cask strength Usually V<strong>in</strong>tage, undiluted<br />

(vii) Styles<br />

from the cask.<br />

Youngest spirit aged for the<br />

age specified<br />

100% from that v<strong>in</strong>tage,<br />

s<strong>in</strong>gle cask bottl<strong>in</strong>g with<br />

bottl<strong>in</strong>g date. M<strong>in</strong> 10 years<br />

old.<br />

Usually V<strong>in</strong>tage, undiluted<br />

from the cask.<br />

The table above shows the r<strong>an</strong>ge of the ages of Cognac by the different styles of Cognac.<br />

VS is the freshest style, with brighter fruit <strong>an</strong>d floral characters, VSOP has a more <strong>in</strong>tegrated character of<br />

dried fruits <strong>an</strong>d some spice <strong>an</strong>d is smoother. Napoleon, XO, Extra <strong>an</strong>d Hors d ‘Age are very different<br />

from house to house as to what their style <strong>an</strong>d age<strong>in</strong>g philosophy is, they are even smoother <strong>an</strong>d softer<br />

with more nutty, spicy <strong>an</strong>d leathery characters. V<strong>in</strong>tage <strong>an</strong>d cask strength are less common yet are likely<br />

to be older <strong>an</strong>d smoother with the cask strength be<strong>in</strong>g undiluted <strong>an</strong>d will have higher <strong>an</strong>d sharper<br />

alcohol.<br />

Every s<strong>in</strong>gle cognac is a blend. A blend of Crus, grape varieties, w<strong>in</strong>e growers, distillers, barrels,<br />

distillates, ages, v<strong>in</strong>tages. Only a t<strong>in</strong>y percentage of bottled Cognac’s are from a s<strong>in</strong>gle v<strong>in</strong>tage.<br />

Remy Mart<strong>in</strong> VSOP is a blend of 55% Gr<strong>an</strong>d Champagne <strong>an</strong>d 45% Petit Champagne mak<strong>in</strong>g it <strong>an</strong>d all the<br />

Remy Mart<strong>in</strong> Cognac’s F<strong>in</strong>e Champagne.<br />

Page 42 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Remy’s Louis XIII is a blend ages from 40 – 100 year old cognacs.<br />

The Hennessey XO conta<strong>in</strong>s a blend of over different 100 eau-de-vie’s.<br />

(viii) Enjoy<strong>in</strong>g Cognac<br />

The old cliché of mature men, cigars <strong>an</strong>d top hats is still a common association with Cognac <strong>an</strong>d the way<br />

the Cognac is served <strong>in</strong> this scenario is still the best way to dr<strong>in</strong>k it, <strong>in</strong> a <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> balloon, neat or with a<br />

dash of water.<br />

With the majority of Cognac’s sold be<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the VS or VSOP categories a large percentage is used <strong>in</strong><br />

cocktail mix<strong>in</strong>g or drunk with a mixer.<br />

The BNIC has even launched their own cocktail, The Summit to make Cognac appeal more to the<br />

younger age group of legal dr<strong>in</strong>kers <strong>an</strong>d capitalize from the cocktail craze.<br />

(ix) Cellar Visit <strong>an</strong>d Interview<br />

Jenssen, Cognac.<br />

This Cognac house supplied Remy Mart<strong>in</strong> until it was bought by the Jenssen family <strong>in</strong> 2000. They have<br />

upgraded the property which now boasts a magnificent boutique hotel <strong>an</strong>d soon, a spa. “Excellence <strong>an</strong>d<br />

privilege” are 2 words that stick with me after the visit, fitt<strong>in</strong>g of the experience but also the philosophy<br />

of Mr Jenssen himself.<br />

They have 24 hectares pl<strong>an</strong>ted to v<strong>in</strong>eyard, Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c, Folle Bl<strong>an</strong>che (10%) <strong>an</strong>d Colombard (5%) on<br />

Compagni<strong>an</strong> soils.<br />

They harvest as early as possible to produce the lowest alcohol possible <strong>in</strong> the w<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

Mr. Jenssen expla<strong>in</strong>ed a formula that to achieve the maximum quota set of say 70 hectare litres per<br />

hectare on c<strong>an</strong> achieve 10 hl @ 7% abv or 7hl @ 10% abv. They have to work with<strong>in</strong> the qu<strong>an</strong>tities of<br />

harvest yields <strong>an</strong>d quotas set by the BNIC. All the harvest<strong>in</strong>g is done mech<strong>an</strong>ically by the shak<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

grapes from the bunches.<br />

Page 43 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

They do what he referred to as a ‘Carbon Snow’, frozen CO2 (dry ice) is added <strong>in</strong>to the h<strong>an</strong>ger of the<br />

harvester <strong>in</strong> the v<strong>in</strong>eyard to protect the grapes. The fermentation takes place <strong>in</strong> concrete open vats <strong>an</strong>d<br />

there is no temperature control of the process with yeast stra<strong>in</strong>s selected year to year depend<strong>in</strong>g on the<br />

v<strong>in</strong>tage.<br />

Mr Jensen tries to prevent <strong>an</strong>y Malolactic fermentation before distillation, try<strong>in</strong>g to distil before it starts.<br />

If however it does start distillation then is stopped until it has been completed. “If malo starts or is<br />

happen<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>side the still the result<strong>in</strong>g eau-de-vie is ‘Schizophrenic’” he said quite seriously.<br />

They distil each batch separately <strong>in</strong> a 12hl still, all on its lees to 70-72% abv after 2 nd fermentation. All<br />

the oak used is Limous<strong>in</strong> Oak bought directly from the forest <strong>an</strong>d a small <strong>in</strong>dependent cooper does all<br />

the cooper<strong>in</strong>g for them. 350 litre casks are used <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>gly several older casks have new oak<br />

ends. When asked the reason beh<strong>in</strong>d this he said “Sometimes putt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong> eau-de-vie <strong>in</strong>to a barrel<br />

consist<strong>in</strong>g of 100% new oak it overwhelms the spirit.” The spirit is reduced with distilled water to 62%<br />

abv <strong>in</strong> the first year <strong>in</strong> barrel to allow the two to marry. The barrels are left undisturbed <strong>an</strong>d are h<strong>an</strong>d<br />

stirred with micro pored staves.<br />

Barrel samples that I was fortunate enough to taste showed the natural reduction <strong>in</strong> alcohol over the<br />

years <strong>in</strong> cask. The 1986 was 55% abv, the 1963 51% abv <strong>an</strong>d the 1960 was 50% abv.<br />

95% of their production is exported <strong>an</strong>d the only way they c<strong>an</strong> compete with the big 5 producers is “by<br />

hav<strong>in</strong>g small production niche bottl<strong>in</strong>g” he said.<br />

The Carte bl<strong>an</strong>che has 40% abv with 4 g/l of residual sugar, it is the youngest of the r<strong>an</strong>ge but is still a XO<br />

while the Arc<strong>an</strong>a, bottled <strong>in</strong> the most exquisite packag<strong>in</strong>g I have seen is the p<strong>in</strong>nacle of their r<strong>an</strong>ge.<br />

100% of the Cognac <strong>in</strong> the bottle is from the 1906 v<strong>in</strong>tage <strong>an</strong>d was put <strong>in</strong>to demijohn <strong>in</strong> 2001. When<br />

tested by BNIC it was found to have the highest concentration of fatty acids <strong>an</strong>d esters of <strong>an</strong>y cognac.<br />

Fatty esters are the result of distill<strong>in</strong>g fatty acids.<br />

This was the most amaz<strong>in</strong>g Cognac I have ever tasted. The Jensen Arc<strong>an</strong>a.<br />

Page 44 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Wow!<br />

The 100 year old Cognac was full of fresh p<strong>in</strong>eapples, fresh herbs, plums <strong>an</strong>d dry prunes with a soft<br />

spic<strong>in</strong>ess. The palate was rich, <strong>in</strong>tense yet soft <strong>an</strong>d supple. The flavour disappeared as it was swallowed<br />

then seconds later exploded <strong>in</strong> the mouth. The f<strong>in</strong>ish was <strong>in</strong>tense <strong>an</strong>d epic.<br />

When asked if he had tasted <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>an</strong>d what was his thought he responded “I was not<br />

stunned but bluffed by the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. They count among the best I have tasted”.<br />

The diagram below is the official Aroma Wheel of Cognac. The design of which entices one to experience<br />

the array of aromas <strong>an</strong>d flavours of Cognac, someth<strong>in</strong>g that <strong>South</strong> Africa’s Br<strong>an</strong>dy Aroma Wheel could<br />

take <strong>in</strong>to account. Below the Aroma Wheel general descriptions are provided as the development of a<br />

Cognac <strong>an</strong>d its taste profile.<br />

Figure 12: Cognac Aroma Wheel<br />

(http://cognac.com, 2009)<br />

Page 45 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

(x) Conclusion<br />

Cognac’s style is less based on its climate th<strong>an</strong> it is on its soils. The chalk <strong>an</strong>d compact clay soils of most<br />

of the region gives the result<strong>in</strong>g <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> a dist<strong>in</strong>ct dry chalk<strong>in</strong>ess <strong>an</strong>d m<strong>in</strong>erality seldom found <strong>in</strong> other<br />

spirits. In their youth they display floral <strong>an</strong>d soft citrus fruits. They develop a c<strong>an</strong>ned fruit character with<br />

floral undertones before leather, nuts <strong>an</strong>d spices dom<strong>in</strong>ate. All cognacs have a particular acidity <strong>an</strong>d<br />

velvety texture.<br />

(xi) SWOT <strong>an</strong>alysis of <strong>South</strong> Africa vs. Cognac<br />

Strengths: SA hasn’t got the same limitations that Cognac has <strong>in</strong> terms of the Appellation system.<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa has larger scope for experimentation <strong>an</strong>d growth.<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> success at the <strong>in</strong>ternational competitions.<br />

The flavour profile of SA <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is more aligned with w<strong>in</strong>e trends, be<strong>in</strong>g more forward <strong>an</strong>d<br />

fruity as opposed to Cognac’s dry chalk<strong>in</strong>ess.<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> has greater restrictions on Sulphur additions mak<strong>in</strong>g it a healthier<br />

option for Sulphur sensitive consumers. 3<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa has higher m<strong>in</strong>imum requirements for age<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Blended br<strong>an</strong>dies are more affordable <strong>an</strong>d better suited to the cocktail<br />

market<br />

Weaknesses: Cognac has a very strong foothold <strong>in</strong> the traditional markets.<br />

Cognac especially the higher end styles are very strong <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a <strong>an</strong>d S<strong>in</strong>gapore<br />

The Cognac br<strong>an</strong>d is very strong <strong>in</strong>ternationally.<br />

Opportunities: More market<strong>in</strong>g emphasis needs to be put on the premium <strong>an</strong>d older <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Potstill<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> as we lack the appellation <strong>an</strong>d br<strong>an</strong>d prestige of Cognac <strong>an</strong>d F<strong>in</strong>e Champagne.<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> needs to create a high quality br<strong>an</strong>d for the Potstill category <strong>in</strong> the<br />

way Cognac is seen as a br<strong>an</strong>d.<br />

3 <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> regulations prohibit ANY addition on SO2, while it is only prohibited dur<strong>in</strong>g fermentation <strong>an</strong>d w<strong>in</strong>e mak<strong>in</strong>g<br />

processes.<br />

Page 46 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Capitalize on the <strong>in</strong>ternational awards <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> has won. Not enough exposure<br />

is received for this success.<br />

Focus more attention on the fruity flavour profile of our <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> conjunction with trend<br />

toward fresher fruitier styles of w<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

More young pot still br<strong>an</strong>dies, three to five year olds, such as Flight of the Fish Eagle, need<br />

to be produced <strong>an</strong>d marketed to compete directly with the most successful style of Cognac,<br />

the VS. Emphasis needs to be placed on the Pot Still <strong>an</strong>d that it is superior to the blended<br />

br<strong>an</strong>dies to create a style <strong>an</strong>d category of its own.<br />

Threats: Cognac’s exports are so well developed <strong>an</strong>d the br<strong>an</strong>d so well established <strong>in</strong> its<br />

<strong>in</strong>ternational markets.<br />

Cognac’s enormous production capacity.<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa has no direct competition for Cognac’s VS category.<br />

3.2.2 Armagnac<br />

The “Daily Prayer", found <strong>in</strong> Condom, <strong>in</strong> Armagnac reads:<br />

“Oh Lord.<br />

Please give me good health,<br />

Not too much of work,<br />

Lovemak<strong>in</strong>g, now or then.<br />

But a glass of Armagnac every day”<br />

Armagnac is the oldest <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> distilled <strong>in</strong> Fr<strong>an</strong>ce, <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> the past was consumed for its therapeutic<br />

benefits. On the 14th century, Prior Vital Du Four, a Card<strong>in</strong>al, claimed it had 40 virtues.<br />

"It makes disappear redness <strong>an</strong>d burn<strong>in</strong>g of the eyes, <strong>an</strong>d stops them from tear<strong>in</strong>g; it cures hepatitis,<br />

sober consumption adher<strong>in</strong>g. It cures gout, c<strong>an</strong>kers, <strong>an</strong>d fistula by <strong>in</strong>gestion; restores the paralysed<br />

member by massage; <strong>an</strong>d heals wounds of the sk<strong>in</strong> by application. It enlivens the spirit, partaken <strong>in</strong><br />

moderation, recalls the past to memory, renders men joyous, preserves youth <strong>an</strong>d retards senility. And<br />

when reta<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong> the mouth, it loosens the tongue <strong>an</strong>d emboldens the wit, if someone timid from time to<br />

time himself permits." (Four, 1300)<br />

Page 47 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Armagnac is not only a product from Fr<strong>an</strong>ce but it is a region with<strong>in</strong> south western Fr<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>an</strong>d<br />

appellation (AOC) for the production of w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

All Armagnac is made from grapes grown, w<strong>in</strong>e made <strong>an</strong>d the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> distilled with<strong>in</strong> the Gascony region<br />

of south west Fr<strong>an</strong>ce.<br />

The designations of orig<strong>in</strong> "Armagnac", "Bas Armagnac", "Armagnac Ténaréze" <strong>an</strong>d "Top Armagnac,"<br />

that were orig<strong>in</strong>ally def<strong>in</strong>ed by the decree of August 6, 1936 set out the limits of the zones <strong>in</strong> which the<br />

AOC’s c<strong>an</strong> be used.<br />

As with all AOC’s <strong>in</strong> Fr<strong>an</strong>ce this limits the production zone of the names set out above <strong>an</strong>d the methods<br />

of production with<strong>in</strong> those areas.<br />

The designations of orig<strong>in</strong> "Armagnac", "Bas Armagnac", "Armagnac Ténaréze" <strong>an</strong>d "Top Armagnac," are<br />

reserved for the ‘spirit distilled from w<strong>in</strong>e, aged, assembled or not. The latest Appellation of Orig<strong>in</strong><br />

“Armagnac Bl<strong>an</strong>che” or white Armagnac orig<strong>in</strong>ally recognized by the decree of 27 May 2005 is ‘reserved<br />

for water-life white w<strong>in</strong>e high <strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>ert conta<strong>in</strong>er <strong>an</strong>d show<strong>in</strong>g no sta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g.’<br />

The region of Armagnac is vast cover<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong> area of km² with 15,000 hectares under v<strong>in</strong>es compris<strong>in</strong>g of<br />

4 zones. Each zone hav<strong>in</strong>g the villages or municipalities listed which fall with<strong>in</strong> the zones.<br />

Unlike Cognac, Armagnac has no ‘Capital’ or city of Armagnac. It is a region <strong>in</strong> the heart of Gascony with<br />

all the little villages be<strong>in</strong>g the centre of each much smaller ‘village type system’ without <strong>an</strong>y be<strong>in</strong>g legally<br />

recognized or mentioned on the labels. There is no ma<strong>in</strong> centre <strong>in</strong> Armagnac where all the producers <strong>in</strong><br />

the region have a base which is the case of Cognac. It is a much more rural set up <strong>an</strong>d it is all done on a<br />

much smaller scale.<br />

The large centres with<strong>in</strong> the region are La Bastide d’Armagnac (which is the first stop with<strong>in</strong> the region<br />

head<strong>in</strong>g down from Bordeaux <strong>an</strong>d the unofficial tourist centre of the region) Eauze, Condom, (the<br />

capital of Armagnac) <strong>an</strong>d Auch <strong>in</strong> the east <strong>in</strong> the Haut Armagnac appellation where the producers are<br />

spread far <strong>an</strong>d wide.<br />

The largest producer or Comp<strong>an</strong>y <strong>in</strong> Armagnac is the Gerl<strong>an</strong>d group which has the Chabot, Sempe, Cles<br />

des Ducs <strong>an</strong>d Peysegur br<strong>an</strong>ds.<br />

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Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Chabot is the largest br<strong>an</strong>d (<strong>an</strong>d has been for 10 years) with over 250 000 bottles produced each year<br />

<strong>an</strong>d Sempe be<strong>in</strong>g the second largest br<strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> Armagnac with over 150 000 bottles produced each year.<br />

Their total production each year is with 20 000 hectares under v<strong>in</strong>e from their 500 members, either<br />

actually owned or under signed arr<strong>an</strong>gement with the grape growers <strong>an</strong>d producers.<br />

The total production for Armagnac is around 20’000 hectolitres each year, Gerl<strong>an</strong>d Distilled 5000 hl of<br />

the total <strong>in</strong> 2010.<br />

The l<strong>an</strong>dscape of the region is dom<strong>in</strong>ated by only a few crops, Sunflower’s, Maize <strong>an</strong>d v<strong>in</strong>es with a huge<br />

Duck <strong>an</strong>d Geese farm<strong>in</strong>g community produc<strong>in</strong>g among other th<strong>in</strong>gs, superb Foie Gras.<br />

There are hundreds of Armagnac producers each with their own market strategy. The focus is on<br />

exports with 90% of the regions production be<strong>in</strong>g consumed outside its borders which may seem like a<br />

surpris<strong>in</strong>g fact consider<strong>in</strong>g the rural nature of the region <strong>an</strong>d the seem<strong>in</strong>gly lack of <strong>in</strong>ternational focus.<br />

Armagnoteque is a club devoted to Armagnac <strong>an</strong>d its 40 virtues, “Armagnac reflects the personality of<br />

the people who make it. This would make sense, as the aim is to reflect as closely as possible the w<strong>in</strong>e<br />

used <strong>an</strong>d the ground <strong>in</strong> which the grapes are grown, hence the methods of v<strong>in</strong>ification <strong>an</strong>d distillation<br />

are tailored to achieve just this.” (Armagnotheque, 2010)<br />

Chris Redm<strong>an</strong> wrote, “Feisty Armagnac may be small but it punches way above its weight. It is to cognac<br />

what s<strong>in</strong>gle malt whiskies are to the big Scotch br<strong>an</strong>ds like Johnny Walker. Like s<strong>in</strong>gle malts, Armagnac’s<br />

are dist<strong>in</strong>ctive, <strong>in</strong>dividualistic—even quirky.” (Redm<strong>an</strong>, 2010)<br />

Armagnac’s total production is <strong>an</strong> average of 6 million bottles per year, a mere drop <strong>in</strong> the oce<strong>an</strong><br />

compared to Cognac’s 102 million bottles. In a discussion with Roma<strong>in</strong>e Dumeau of the Gerl<strong>an</strong>d Group<br />

the focus is “on the Asi<strong>an</strong> markets. With a good foot<strong>in</strong>g established <strong>in</strong> markets with<strong>in</strong> Asia with various<br />

br<strong>an</strong>ds already we are <strong>in</strong> a great position to exp<strong>an</strong>d with these markets.”<br />

He also conceded that “There is a def<strong>in</strong>ite problem dist<strong>in</strong>guish<strong>in</strong>g Armagnac as a product of its own.<br />

Most consumers th<strong>in</strong>k it is a Cognac” (Dumeau, 2011)<br />

Page 49 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

(i) The Region<br />

Figure 13: Map of Armagnac <strong>an</strong>d its regions<br />

(www.simplyw<strong>in</strong>esdirect.com, 2012)<br />

Armagnac falls under the Gascony region <strong>in</strong> the <strong>South</strong> Western Fr<strong>an</strong>ce. It is divided <strong>in</strong>to 3 sub-regions<br />

<strong>an</strong>d AOC’s.<br />

Bas-Armagnac<br />

(Lower Armagnac) is the region produc<strong>in</strong>g the highest quality Armagnac. Its Armagnac’s are softer with<br />

more f<strong>in</strong>esse th<strong>an</strong> the other zones. Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c <strong>an</strong>d Folle Blache dom<strong>in</strong>ate pl<strong>an</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs here. The soils are<br />

s<strong>an</strong>d based with high iron content especially <strong>in</strong> the Les L<strong>an</strong>des department or with small pieces of clay,<br />

boulbenes.<br />

Ténaréze<br />

Most of Armagnac’s negoci<strong>an</strong>ts are based here. The soils are firmer with clay <strong>an</strong>d limestone. The spirits<br />

are firmer <strong>in</strong> their youth yet age very well, better th<strong>an</strong> Bas-Armagnac. Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c <strong>an</strong>d Colombard are the<br />

major varieties here.<br />

This is where the majority of Floc de Gascogne is produced, a ‘Jeripigo style w<strong>in</strong>e, unfermented grape<br />

juice fortified with Armagnac to 19 % alc vol.<br />

Haut-Armagnac<br />

Page 50 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Mak<strong>in</strong>g up 50% of the region. Its soils are ma<strong>in</strong>ly limestone. Its spirits are harsher <strong>an</strong>d less round.<br />

(ii) The Ma<strong>in</strong> Grape Varieties<br />

Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

Known as Trebi<strong>an</strong>no <strong>in</strong> Italy, comprises of 55% of pl<strong>an</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs. It is a high yield<strong>in</strong>g grape produc<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>es of<br />

higher alcohol <strong>an</strong>d high acidity.<br />

Baco 22-A<br />

Less aromatic th<strong>an</strong> Folle Bl<strong>an</strong>che yet very floral <strong>an</strong>d shows the spice from the wood age<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

A Hybrid (the only one allowed <strong>in</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e or spirit production under EU laws) between the v<strong>in</strong>ifera Folle<br />

Bl<strong>an</strong>che <strong>an</strong>d the Labrusca Noah grapes. It is resist<strong>an</strong>t to rot <strong>an</strong>d mildew. It produces flamboy<strong>an</strong>t, full<br />

bodied w<strong>in</strong>es with plum notes.<br />

Folle Bl<strong>an</strong>che<br />

Comprises of only 3% of total v<strong>in</strong>eyard pl<strong>an</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs. It produces w<strong>in</strong>es of light – medium body with low<br />

alcohol <strong>an</strong>d high acidity. Shows floral, peach <strong>an</strong>d apricot characteristics <strong>an</strong>d shows well <strong>in</strong> the younger<br />

spirits.<br />

Colombard<br />

Now used <strong>in</strong> t<strong>in</strong>y proportions.<br />

(iii) Harvest <strong>an</strong>d Viticulture<br />

The harvest dates are set by the Bureau National Interprofessionnel de l’Armagnac (B.N.I.A.) normally <strong>in</strong><br />

late September to early October. The 2011 Harvest was set to start earlier th<strong>an</strong> usual, closer to the<br />

beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of September.<br />

12hl of pure alcohol of Br<strong>an</strong>dy per hectare (or 160hl of w<strong>in</strong>e @ 7.5% alcohol by volume) is the set<br />

maximum yield per year.<br />

Harvest may be done by h<strong>an</strong>d or by mach<strong>in</strong>e harvesters <strong>an</strong>d the grapes are picked at 18-22° ball<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Page 51 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

(iv) V<strong>in</strong>ification<br />

Only free run juice from a s<strong>in</strong>gle year is permitted to be fermented. The press juice has to be fermented<br />

separately <strong>an</strong>d used to produce ‘water spirits’.<br />

No sulphur is permitted to the grapes, the must or the w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d Chaptilization is also not permitted.<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>e is fermented dry natural wild yeasts, no commercial yeasts to <strong>an</strong> alcohol content of 10-11%<br />

alc, reta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g its high acidity.<br />

(v) Distillation<br />

Figure 14: Diagram of the Armagnac column still<br />

(BNIC, 2010)<br />

The INAO must be advised of the date of the ignition <strong>an</strong>d the shut off date of the still for taxation<br />

purposes. It may commence no later th<strong>an</strong> the 31 st of March of the year follow<strong>in</strong>g the Harvest.<br />

La Flamme de l’Armagnac 2011 started as early as the 5 th October, the earliest the Alambic stills were lit<br />

start<strong>in</strong>g the distillation season. (BNIA)<br />

Page 52 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

The majority of Armagnac’s are distilled us<strong>in</strong>g the s<strong>in</strong>gle distillation method us<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong> cont<strong>in</strong>uous copper<br />

still unique to Armagnac called a Alambic Armagnacaise or Armagnac still <strong>in</strong> which the spirits are<br />

distilled once only to a percentage alcohol between 52 <strong>an</strong>d 60% alc by volume.<br />

The bigger the still the higher the result<strong>an</strong>t alcohol will be.<br />

There are m<strong>an</strong>y types <strong>an</strong>d shapes to the plates used <strong>in</strong> the Alembic still, each offer<strong>in</strong>g different<br />

characteristics, the mushroom plate has a cle<strong>an</strong>er le<strong>an</strong>er character, the spider plate, offers fruitier<br />

characters with the ris<strong>in</strong>g vapour hav<strong>in</strong>g more contact with the fall<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>e, without its gross lees, <strong>an</strong>d ma<strong>in</strong>ly (especially us<strong>in</strong>g the Alembic column still) no lees at all is<br />

left <strong>in</strong> the w<strong>in</strong>e to be distilled.<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>e is pumped <strong>in</strong>to the pre-heater on a cont<strong>in</strong>uous flow. It the passes <strong>in</strong>to the ma<strong>in</strong> column near<br />

the top where is flows down through the plates until the lower hottest part of the still where it boils <strong>an</strong>d<br />

vaporises. The vapours then rise back up through the plates <strong>an</strong>d boil through the liquid flow<strong>in</strong>g down.<br />

This contact between the vapour <strong>an</strong>d the w<strong>in</strong>e plays <strong>an</strong> import<strong>an</strong>t role <strong>in</strong> the f<strong>in</strong>al spirit. The vapour<br />

absorbs some of the more fruity characteristics not usually associated with a pure spirit.<br />

The vapour then leaves the column <strong>an</strong>d enters the ‘snake’, the condens<strong>in</strong>g tube that coils down through<br />

cold liquid, often the w<strong>in</strong>e be<strong>in</strong>g pumped <strong>in</strong>to the still, act<strong>in</strong>g as the pre-heater too, or cooled water.<br />

Once condensed back to liquid it is the eau-de-vie <strong>an</strong>d is poured <strong>in</strong>to t<strong>an</strong>k or directly <strong>in</strong>to barrel.<br />

The eau-de-vie has a strength between 52-72% abv.<br />

S<strong>in</strong>ce 1974 the use of Charente stills are now allowed. This is the copper still used <strong>in</strong> Cognac <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa. A portion of double distilled spirit is sometimes used <strong>in</strong> the younger more commercial<br />

bottl<strong>in</strong>g. The double distillation removed esters <strong>an</strong>d other acids <strong>an</strong>d congeners which are not enjoyed by<br />

young Armagnac’s. These elements are part of what makes older Armagnac’s special <strong>an</strong>d why one<br />

should dr<strong>in</strong>k older Armagnac.<br />

The double distillation method used <strong>in</strong> Armagnac is as follows:<br />

The first distillation is divided <strong>in</strong>to heads, the heart <strong>an</strong>d tails, the heart be<strong>in</strong>g used for the second<br />

distillation <strong>an</strong>d is about 30% abv.<br />

The heads <strong>an</strong>d tails are added back <strong>in</strong>to the next batch of 1 st distillation.<br />

Page 53 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

The second distillation is aga<strong>in</strong> divided <strong>in</strong>to heads, about 4 litres at 83% abv, then the heart 600 litres at<br />

70% abv <strong>an</strong>d the rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g 8-14 litres tails. The head <strong>an</strong>d the tails are added back <strong>in</strong>to the next batch.<br />

(vi) Age<strong>in</strong>g<br />

All Armagnac has to be aged <strong>in</strong> wooden oak casks. Due to the depletion of the Gascony forests Limos<strong>in</strong><br />

is the most common oak used. Any oak from French orig<strong>in</strong> may be used.<br />

The purist though still prefers to use oak from the local Monlezun forest <strong>in</strong> the L<strong>an</strong>des area, the black<br />

oak or the Armagnac Noir. Trees have to be over 100 years old to be forested. All oak has to be<br />

seasoned naturally for 3 years, the black oak up to 15 years before be<strong>in</strong>g h<strong>an</strong>dmade <strong>in</strong>to the barrels.<br />

The ‘une pièce armagnacaise’ are the 400 litre barrels used.<br />

Barrels are never moved. They are racked by pump; the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> sometimes filtered then pumped back<br />

<strong>in</strong>to the same or different barrels. New, second fill <strong>an</strong>d older barrels are used depend<strong>in</strong>g on the style<br />

w<strong>an</strong>ted. Often the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is moved from new (for 7 or 8 months) <strong>in</strong>to second fill barrels, to older barrels<br />

until f<strong>in</strong>ally very old barrels that offer little or no oak characterises at all.<br />

Depend<strong>in</strong>g on the type of Armagnac produced it has to be <strong>in</strong> the barrel for a m<strong>in</strong>imum time. See the<br />

table below.<br />

Table 1: Armagnac age stipulations<br />

Styles Current Proposed simplified system<br />

3 star M<strong>in</strong> 1 years <strong>in</strong> wood M<strong>in</strong>imum 1 year<br />

VSOP (or VO) M<strong>in</strong> 5 years <strong>in</strong> wood *<br />

XO M<strong>in</strong> 6 years <strong>in</strong> wood *to all fall under VSOP<br />

Napoleon M<strong>in</strong> 5 - 9 years <strong>in</strong> wood *<br />

Vielle Reserve M<strong>in</strong> 6 years <strong>in</strong> wood *<br />

Hors d ‘Age M<strong>in</strong> 10 years <strong>in</strong> wood M<strong>in</strong> 10 years <strong>in</strong> wood<br />

10 years Old etc. Youngest spirit aged for the<br />

age specified<br />

V<strong>in</strong>tage 100% from that v<strong>in</strong>tage,<br />

s<strong>in</strong>gle cask bottl<strong>in</strong>g with<br />

bottl<strong>in</strong>g date. M<strong>in</strong> 10 years<br />

old.<br />

To fall under Hors d ‘Age<br />

100% from that v<strong>in</strong>tage,<br />

s<strong>in</strong>gle cask bottl<strong>in</strong>g with<br />

bottl<strong>in</strong>g date. M<strong>in</strong> 10 years<br />

old.<br />

Page 54 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Styles Current Proposed simplified system<br />

Cask strength Usually V<strong>in</strong>tage, undiluted<br />

from the cask.<br />

Usually V<strong>in</strong>tage, undiluted<br />

from the cask.<br />

Cellar conditions are all import<strong>an</strong>t to the f<strong>in</strong>al Armagnac, the locals call the black fungus growth on the<br />

walls <strong>an</strong>d ceil<strong>in</strong>gs of the maturation cellars ‘mushrooms’. It feeds off the evaporat<strong>in</strong>g alcohol from the<br />

age<strong>in</strong>g barrels. ‘The devils feed<strong>in</strong>g off the <strong>an</strong>gel’s share’ as one producer put it when asked about it.<br />

(vii) Styles<br />

The table above lists the styles of Armagnac’s <strong>in</strong> reference to the m<strong>in</strong>imum maturation requiems for<br />

each. This age<strong>in</strong>g goes a long way to def<strong>in</strong>e the style of each style. Three star is the lightest <strong>an</strong>d tightest<br />

of the styles. VSOP is smoother yet still fiery with a sharpness that follows through all Armagnac’s due to<br />

the s<strong>in</strong>gle distillation <strong>an</strong>d type of still used. Wild c<strong>an</strong>died fruit, spice <strong>an</strong>d dusty notes become more<br />

common the older they get. XO, Napoleon, Vielle Reserve <strong>an</strong>d Hors d’Age develop coffee <strong>an</strong>d nutty<br />

notes before the r<strong>an</strong>cio character shows <strong>in</strong> the older bottl<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

As with <strong>an</strong>y other Br<strong>an</strong>dy blend<strong>in</strong>g is <strong>an</strong> import<strong>an</strong>t part of the f<strong>in</strong>al product. Blend<strong>in</strong>g starts <strong>in</strong> the<br />

v<strong>in</strong>eyard with a blend of the different grape varieties be<strong>in</strong>g pl<strong>an</strong>ted that will make up the f<strong>in</strong>al blend of<br />

grapes <strong>in</strong> the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. Some houses blend the grapes before the w<strong>in</strong>emak<strong>in</strong>g process <strong>an</strong>d some after the<br />

base w<strong>in</strong>es have been made. After distillation all the distillate is put <strong>in</strong>to barrels. The spirits are then<br />

blended at vary<strong>in</strong>g stages of maturation.<br />

It is common to s<strong>in</strong>gle out the best barrels every year, rack them <strong>in</strong>dividually <strong>an</strong>d put them back <strong>in</strong>to the<br />

same or different barrels keep<strong>in</strong>g them separate while tak<strong>in</strong>g all the rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g barrels rack<strong>in</strong>g them,<br />

blend<strong>in</strong>g them all together <strong>an</strong>d pump<strong>in</strong>g back <strong>in</strong>to barrels.<br />

Then the f<strong>in</strong>al blend<strong>in</strong>g will be done at bottl<strong>in</strong>g, where blends made up from different barrels, different<br />

ages, v<strong>in</strong>tages, styles <strong>an</strong>d maybe even different distillation methods to achieve a consistent f<strong>in</strong>al<br />

product.<br />

Page 55 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Interest<strong>in</strong>gly, with the majority of Armagnac producers be<strong>in</strong>g small <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>dependent, without the huge<br />

mult<strong>in</strong>ationals like <strong>in</strong> its sister region Cognac, bottl<strong>in</strong>g takes place on <strong>an</strong> order basis.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy only developed <strong>an</strong>d matures <strong>in</strong> barrel. Once it comes out of barrel its development stops. So the<br />

eau-de-vie is left <strong>in</strong> barrel for as long as it is deemed need<strong>in</strong>g maturation. Once it has reached its<br />

optimal maturation it is then racked from the barrel <strong>an</strong>d kept <strong>in</strong> large glass demijohns which are covered<br />

<strong>in</strong> reeds <strong>an</strong>d kept <strong>in</strong> what the locals call “paradise” or “heaven”. A cellar, often a loft actually where<br />

beh<strong>in</strong>d lock <strong>an</strong>d key, the really old eau-de-vie are kept.<br />

Once the younger br<strong>an</strong>dies, such as a VSOP are blended ready for bottl<strong>in</strong>g it is put <strong>in</strong>to sta<strong>in</strong>less steel<br />

t<strong>an</strong>ks <strong>an</strong>d will be bottled from the t<strong>an</strong>k on order.<br />

The older br<strong>an</strong>dies from the demijohn’s are bottled directly from the “heaven” on order, corked,<br />

labelled, sealed with wax for the local market or sealed with heat shr<strong>in</strong>k foil for export as the wax cracks<br />

<strong>in</strong> tr<strong>an</strong>sport, <strong>an</strong>d delivered.<br />

As with other spirits maturation stops once it has been taken out of the wooden cask. A 1973 Armagnac,<br />

which stayed <strong>in</strong> barrel until be<strong>in</strong>g put <strong>in</strong>to demijohn <strong>in</strong> 1999 is 38 years old yet has a ‘maturation’ of 26<br />

years. Whereas a 1984 Armagnac which was bottled <strong>in</strong> 2010 therefore is as ‘mature’ as the 1973<br />

although it is 11 years younger, mak<strong>in</strong>g the bottl<strong>in</strong>g date on the older Armagnac’s very import<strong>an</strong>t.<br />

The other reason’s that the stocks aren’t kept <strong>in</strong> bottle is space requirements. To store 1000’s of bottles<br />

would take up a lot of cellar space.<br />

Armagnac is a very export orientated product. Chateaux DeLord for example is exported to more th<strong>an</strong> 8<br />

different countries (<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g <strong>South</strong> Africa) <strong>an</strong>d each of these markets have different requirements. At<br />

the distillery there are 200ml, 500ml <strong>an</strong>d 700ml bottles available to buy <strong>an</strong>d the 750ml bottle for certa<strong>in</strong><br />

export markets.<br />

Page 56 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

It is a logistical <strong>an</strong>d a f<strong>in</strong><strong>an</strong>cial problem. The m<strong>in</strong>imum qu<strong>an</strong>tities of bottles are kept <strong>in</strong> stock. For large<br />

export orders the bottles are only bought <strong>in</strong> on confirmation of order.<br />

Hav<strong>in</strong>g a bottle of 25 year old Chateau DeLord filled, corked, labelled <strong>an</strong>d sealed for me <strong>in</strong> the bottle size<br />

of choice is one of the reasons that make Armagnac a special place <strong>an</strong>d a special product.<br />

(viii) Armagnac Bl<strong>an</strong>che<br />

This is the newest AOC <strong>in</strong> Fr<strong>an</strong>ce <strong>an</strong>d the only ch<strong>an</strong>ge or addition to the ‘styles or types’ of Armagnac<br />

s<strong>in</strong>ce the styles were def<strong>in</strong>ed. It is the revitalization of the traditional Eau-de-Vie for the modern<br />

consumer. It has been developed for m<strong>an</strong>y years <strong>an</strong>d f<strong>in</strong>ally recognized by the decree of May 27 2005.<br />

It is the “white Armagnac” the pure spirit eau-de-vie of Armagnac. The grape must come from parcels of<br />

v<strong>in</strong>es already identified with<strong>in</strong> the Armagnac region. The w<strong>in</strong>e is made us<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>y of the major grape<br />

varieties or blends thereof <strong>an</strong>d the result<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>e must be very fruity. Distillation takes place early to<br />

ensure the freshness of the w<strong>in</strong>e is reta<strong>in</strong>ed. The w<strong>in</strong>e is distilled with its f<strong>in</strong>e lees, <strong>an</strong>d the distillate has<br />

higher alcohol content th<strong>an</strong> that of Armagnac.<br />

The Eau-de Vie must be put <strong>in</strong>to ‘Inert’ conta<strong>in</strong>ers immediately follow<strong>in</strong>g the distillation for a period of 3<br />

months before be<strong>in</strong>g assessed.<br />

The alcohol strength is then lowered to 40% abv by the addition of distilled water. Samples must then<br />

be sent to the INAO for assessment <strong>an</strong>d approval. If it is not approved, it c<strong>an</strong>not be aged <strong>in</strong> wood <strong>an</strong>d<br />

used <strong>in</strong> Armagnac. It c<strong>an</strong> only be re-distilled <strong>an</strong>d sold as pure alcohol spirit. Hence, it is a costly product<br />

to make as the entire process is separate from the rest of the Armagnac production. It is not just fresh<br />

un-aged Armagnac but a Br<strong>an</strong>dy of its own.<br />

All Armagnac Bl<strong>an</strong>che is bottled <strong>in</strong> the same bottle with certa<strong>in</strong> labell<strong>in</strong>g criteria which has to be<br />

followed.<br />

It is be<strong>in</strong>g marketed as the perfect Armagnac for cocktails as well as ‘easy dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g’ Armagnac. It is also a<br />

food friendly <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d I c<strong>an</strong> confirm that it goes perfectly with fresh Gironde Oysters!<br />

Page 57 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

(ix) Enjoy<strong>in</strong>g Armagnac<br />

Armagnac <strong>an</strong>d the Gascony region as a whole have one of the richest diets with<strong>in</strong> Fr<strong>an</strong>ce. The local<br />

people eat a huge amount of one of the regions delicacies, Foie Gras <strong>an</strong>d other very fatty dishes.<br />

The French Paradox is more evident here th<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>ywhere else <strong>in</strong> Fr<strong>an</strong>ce. In Chris Redm<strong>an</strong>’s article<br />

‘ARMAGNAC: AMBER PARADOX’ on http://www.fr<strong>an</strong>cetoday.com on September 11 2010. He writes:<br />

“<strong>in</strong> Gascony, where hearty Gascons consume prodigious qu<strong>an</strong>tities of foie gras while topp<strong>in</strong>g Fr<strong>an</strong>ce's<br />

longevity charts….” “…Armagnac has been credited by researchers at the University of Bordeaux with<br />

<strong>an</strong>ti-oxid<strong>an</strong>t powers similar to those of red w<strong>in</strong>e. And the news gets better. The same researchers have<br />

s<strong>in</strong>ce discovered that rats fed on a high-fat diet <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac did not ga<strong>in</strong> weight, unlike rats fed the<br />

same food <strong>an</strong>d a substitute alcohol. So don't be afraid to order those second help<strong>in</strong>gs of foie gras<br />

<strong>an</strong>d confit de c<strong>an</strong>ard when next you visit Gascony, as long as you round off the meal with <strong>an</strong><br />

Armagnac.” (Redm<strong>an</strong>, 2010)<br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to the document ‘700 years of Armagnac, Discover<strong>in</strong>g Fr<strong>an</strong>ce’s oldest Br<strong>an</strong>dy’ by Kathar<strong>in</strong>a<br />

Woitczyk.<br />

In 2009 a s<strong>in</strong>gle bottle of Doma<strong>in</strong>e de Joy, Joy, a blend of different Cru’s <strong>an</strong>d the Doma<strong>in</strong>e’s Flagship,<br />

bottled <strong>in</strong> a Pacco Rab<strong>an</strong>e designed bottle was sold at <strong>an</strong> auction <strong>in</strong> Moscow for the equivalent of<br />

€15,000.<br />

At the L<strong>an</strong>gham Hotel <strong>in</strong> London, the world’s most expensive cocktail is served. It consists of Cristal<br />

Roederer Champagne, Angostura bitters <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac, Ge’las 100 years old for UK £1,865.00.<br />

(Woitczyk, 2010)<br />

Page 58 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Figure 15: Armagnac Aroma Wheel<br />

(x) Conclusion<br />

(BNIA, 2010)<br />

The iron-rich <strong>an</strong>d dense s<strong>an</strong>dy soil of Bas Armagnac <strong>an</strong>d limestone <strong>in</strong> Haut Armagnac tr<strong>an</strong>slate <strong>in</strong>to the<br />

<strong>in</strong>tensity <strong>an</strong>d wildness of character which typifies Armagnac. In their youth the br<strong>an</strong>dies are grapey <strong>an</strong>d<br />

floral with vegetal undertones. The VSOP’s show a more c<strong>an</strong>died fruit character with spice <strong>an</strong>d a<br />

dust<strong>in</strong>ess which further develop <strong>in</strong>to coffee be<strong>an</strong>s, roasted nuts with r<strong>an</strong>cio notes. The common thread<br />

through all Armagnac’s is <strong>an</strong>ise, from the fresh <strong>an</strong>ise fruit <strong>in</strong> its youth to a more fennel <strong>an</strong>iseed flavour<br />

as it matures.<br />

(xi) SWOT <strong>an</strong>alysis of <strong>South</strong> Africa vs. Armagnac<br />

Strengths: SA hasn’t got the same limitations that Armagnac has <strong>in</strong> terms of the Appellation system.<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa has larger scope for experimentation <strong>an</strong>d growth.<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> success at the <strong>in</strong>ternational competitions<br />

The flavour profile of SA <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is more aligned with w<strong>in</strong>e trends, be<strong>in</strong>g more forward <strong>an</strong>d<br />

fruity as opposed to Armagnac’s shaper <strong>an</strong>d dryer character.<br />

Page 59 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa has higher m<strong>in</strong>imum requirements for age<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

SA Blended br<strong>an</strong>dies are more affordable <strong>an</strong>d better suited to the cocktail market<br />

Weaknesses: Armagnac has a strong foothold <strong>in</strong> the traditional markets tak<strong>in</strong>g adv<strong>an</strong>tage <strong>in</strong> some cases<br />

of its relationship to Cognac.<br />

Armagnac especially the higher end styles are very strong <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a <strong>an</strong>d S<strong>in</strong>gapore<br />

The Armagnac br<strong>an</strong>d is strong <strong>in</strong> m<strong>an</strong>y markets <strong>in</strong>ternationally.<br />

Opportunities: More market<strong>in</strong>g emphasis needs to be put on the premium <strong>an</strong>d older <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Potstill<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> as we lack the appellation <strong>an</strong>d br<strong>an</strong>d prestige of Armagnac <strong>an</strong>d particularly Bas-<br />

Armagnac.<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> needs to create a high quality br<strong>an</strong>d for the Potstill category <strong>in</strong> the<br />

way Armagnac is seen as a br<strong>an</strong>d.<br />

Capitalize on the <strong>in</strong>ternational awards <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> has won. Not enough exposure<br />

is received for this success.<br />

Focus more attention on the fruity flavour profile of our <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> conjunction with trend<br />

toward fresher fruitier styles of w<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

Emphasis needs to be placed on the Pot Still <strong>an</strong>d that it is superior to the blended br<strong>an</strong>dies<br />

to create a style <strong>an</strong>d category of its own.<br />

Threats: Armagnac’s exports are so well developed <strong>an</strong>d the br<strong>an</strong>d so well established <strong>in</strong> its<br />

<strong>in</strong>ternational markets.<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa has no direct competition for Armagnac’s three star category.<br />

3.2.3 Permitted additives <strong>in</strong> Cognac <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac<br />

There are 4 groups of additives that are allowed <strong>in</strong> the f<strong>in</strong>al Cognac <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac.<br />

Water - This is the first <strong>an</strong>d most import<strong>an</strong>t. Water is added to the eau-de-vie as it is put <strong>in</strong>to barrel. The<br />

marriage of spirit <strong>an</strong>d water c<strong>an</strong> take months <strong>an</strong>d even years, so it is often done at the earliest stage<br />

possible. The alcohol is reduced to a moderate level; tak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to account the <strong>an</strong>gels will take their share<br />

of the alcohol over the years <strong>in</strong> barrel.<br />

Page 60 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

All Cognac’s <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac’s have to be a m<strong>in</strong>imum of alcohol strength of 40% by vol. Water may be<br />

added once the spirit is taken out of the barrel <strong>an</strong>d put <strong>in</strong>to t<strong>an</strong>k or demijohn but this is generally not<br />

done, which is why the alcohol volumes are not consistent across producers.<br />

Boise - Boise is a thick liquid which adds wood character, t<strong>an</strong>n<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d colour to the spirit. It is made from<br />

boil<strong>in</strong>g wood chips <strong>in</strong> water, extract<strong>in</strong>g the colour, t<strong>an</strong>n<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d oak flavours from the chips. The liquid is<br />

stra<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>an</strong>d then reduced to concentrate it <strong>in</strong>to a dark brown liquid that is very <strong>in</strong>tense <strong>in</strong> oak aroma<br />

<strong>an</strong>d t<strong>an</strong>n<strong>in</strong>. It c<strong>an</strong> be used ‘fresh’ but is often aged to produce secondary oak characters such as v<strong>an</strong>illa.<br />

It is added to give young Armagnac <strong>an</strong> older aged character.<br />

Sugar syrup - This is either a light or dark reduction of water <strong>an</strong>d sugar to add sweetness to the<br />

Armagnac. This is done either to reduce t<strong>an</strong>n<strong>in</strong>, soften harshness or to keep a consistent style. A<br />

maximum of 2% of the Armagnac’s volume c<strong>an</strong> be Sugar Syrup.<br />

Caramel- This is the additive used to adjust colour <strong>in</strong> the f<strong>in</strong>al blend. It is made from carameliz<strong>in</strong>g<br />

(burn<strong>in</strong>g) sugar <strong>in</strong>to a thick dark slightly bitter liquid. It is used only to create a consistency <strong>in</strong> the colour<br />

<strong>in</strong> bottles on shelves.<br />

3.2.4 French <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong><br />

This section is dedicated to all other Grape Br<strong>an</strong>dy produced <strong>in</strong> Fr<strong>an</strong>ce that do not fall <strong>in</strong>to the Cognac or<br />

Armagnac categories or follow the rules that govern them.<br />

(i) The ma<strong>in</strong> types are:<br />

F<strong>in</strong>e Br<strong>an</strong>dy – A general term used to describe high quality French <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. Most often with<br />

reference that it is subject to regional regulations.<br />

F<strong>in</strong>e de Bordeaux - Made from grapes sourced from the Bordeaux area. Made us<strong>in</strong>g Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

<strong>an</strong>d Colombard grapes. It is double distilled <strong>an</strong>d aged <strong>in</strong> oak casks.<br />

F<strong>in</strong>e de Bourgogne – Made from grape sourced from the Burgundy region. It has no guar<strong>an</strong>tee of<br />

quality <strong>an</strong>d the results have a wide r<strong>an</strong>ge of quality.<br />

F<strong>in</strong>e de la Marne – Made us<strong>in</strong>g grapes from the Champagne area. They are generally full of<br />

Page 61 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

flavour. Produced <strong>in</strong> a limited qu<strong>an</strong>tity.<br />

Most French Br<strong>an</strong>dies are aged <strong>in</strong> cask on average 2-3 years.<br />

The ma<strong>in</strong> exports for French <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> are markets <strong>in</strong> Germ<strong>an</strong>y, Portugal, United K<strong>in</strong>gdom, Spa<strong>in</strong>,<br />

Ukra<strong>in</strong>e, USA, Belgium, Jap<strong>an</strong>, C<strong>an</strong>ada <strong>an</strong>d Italy.<br />

(W<strong>in</strong>e&Spirits International, 2000)<br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to the book ‘Whiskey <strong>an</strong>d spirits for Dummies’ by Perry Luntz, “All ‘St<strong>an</strong>dard (un-<br />

regionalised) French <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is made <strong>in</strong> column stills, with no regulated age<strong>in</strong>g, although it is<br />

often labelled as such (VSOP etc.). They are also sometimes blended with grape juice, w<strong>in</strong>e, oak<br />

flavour<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>an</strong>d other <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Cognac.”<br />

(Luntz, 2007)<br />

French Br<strong>an</strong>dy follows the same labell<strong>in</strong>g guide as that of Cognac such as VS, VSOP <strong>an</strong>d XO. They don’t<br />

however follow the same rules for the <strong>in</strong>dication <strong>an</strong>d is unregulated.<br />

The Larsen SA Cognac house produces a ‘Br<strong>an</strong>dy” as well namely the Ibis XO.<br />

50% of the grapes are from Cognac, the rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g 50% are sourced from “other well-regarded v<strong>in</strong>eyards<br />

<strong>in</strong> Fr<strong>an</strong>ce”.<br />

Although the label carries the XO it is only aged for 3 years <strong>in</strong> cask.<br />

(Berniko, 2011)<br />

(ii) Conclusion<br />

French <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is more similar <strong>in</strong> style th<strong>an</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Blended <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. They tend to be higher <strong>in</strong><br />

alcohol <strong>an</strong>d sharper. Designed for mix<strong>in</strong>g they often have a grape spirit aroma <strong>an</strong>d flavour.<br />

(iii) SWOT <strong>an</strong>alysis of <strong>South</strong> Africa vs. French Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

Strengths: <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is of a higher quality th<strong>an</strong> generic French Br<strong>an</strong>dy.<br />

Page 62 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

With<strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa French <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> has no real br<strong>an</strong>d power. It is well priced but local<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is often cheaper.<br />

Weaknesses: French <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> could be seen as ‘superior if the consumer believes it is like Cognac, but will<br />

most likely be disappo<strong>in</strong>ted.<br />

Opportunities: Generic French <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is not seen as a direct competitor so no opportunities or threats<br />

have been identified.<br />

Threats: <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> exports <strong>in</strong>to Fr<strong>an</strong>ce c<strong>an</strong>’t compete at this level with the amount of generic<br />

3.3 Spa<strong>in</strong><br />

French <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> retail outlets.<br />

Distillation was established by the Moors dur<strong>in</strong>g their control between 711 <strong>an</strong>d 1492. By the 1100’s<br />

distill<strong>in</strong>g had been <strong>in</strong>troduced <strong>in</strong>to the country.<br />

Jerez is the centre of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> production <strong>in</strong> Spa<strong>in</strong>, <strong>an</strong>d is one of only 4 ‘regions’ produc<strong>in</strong>g Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>in</strong><br />

Europe given protected geographical status, Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez DO.<br />

By 1580 revenue was been collected for the w<strong>in</strong>e spirits tax from the city of Jerez.<br />

As with all other regions the reason for the distillation of the w<strong>in</strong>e was to preserve it for the long sea<br />

journeys. The production of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> was long established before the Sp<strong>an</strong>ish, tak<strong>in</strong>g a page out of the<br />

Portuguese way of fortify<strong>in</strong>g their Port they beg<strong>an</strong> to experiment with the addition of Br<strong>an</strong>dy to the<br />

w<strong>in</strong>es of Jerez, <strong>an</strong>d the Sherry as we know it today was born.<br />

Jerez produces 95% of the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> produced <strong>in</strong> Spa<strong>in</strong>. Br<strong>an</strong>dy is also produced <strong>in</strong> Cataluña, Castilla la<br />

M<strong>an</strong>cha, Rioja, País Vasco, Murcia, Andalucía, Galicia.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez follows the same pr<strong>in</strong>ciple as <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> where it is permitted to use spirit<br />

derived from 2 different types of still mak<strong>in</strong>g some closer to that of <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> ‘blended’ th<strong>an</strong> to our<br />

‘Pot still” Br<strong>an</strong>dy’s.<br />

Page 63 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to the website of the Consejo Regulador del Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez “Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez differs from<br />

other br<strong>an</strong>dies as it possesses certa<strong>in</strong> specific, unique org<strong>an</strong>oleptic characteristics as a consequence of<br />

its traditional production system <strong>an</strong>d the characteristics of the wooden casks <strong>in</strong> which it is aged <strong>an</strong>d,<br />

naturally, of the characteristic climatic conditions exclusive to the geographical area <strong>in</strong> which it is<br />

produced.”<br />

(http://www.<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>dejerez.es, 2006)<br />

60% of the 80 million bottles produced each year is consumed with<strong>in</strong> Spa<strong>in</strong>.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez has <strong>an</strong> 18 % share of the spirit market <strong>in</strong> Spa<strong>in</strong>.<br />

The major export markets are the Philipp<strong>in</strong>es, Germ<strong>an</strong>y <strong>an</strong>d Mexico, <strong>an</strong>d grow<strong>in</strong>g markets of the United<br />

States, Italy, Great Brita<strong>in</strong>, <strong>South</strong> America <strong>an</strong>d the Caribbe<strong>an</strong>.<br />

(i) The region<br />

Figure 16: Map of Spa<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d its w<strong>in</strong>e regions<br />

(http://schiller-w<strong>in</strong>e.blogspot.com, 2011)<br />

Page 64 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Figure 17: Map of Jerez<br />

(www.cellartours.com, 2011)<br />

The Jerez region is best known for the production of Sherry <strong>an</strong>d the Br<strong>an</strong>dy produced <strong>in</strong> the region has<br />

always played a vital role <strong>in</strong> the success of Sherry w<strong>in</strong>e. Both the Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>an</strong>d the Sherry share the same<br />

geographical boundaries.<br />

Jerez is on the south western edge of Spa<strong>in</strong>, almost the most southern part of the country on the<br />

Atl<strong>an</strong>tic coast.<br />

It has a warm climate with hot easterly w<strong>in</strong>ds tempered by the oce<strong>an</strong>ic <strong>in</strong>fluence with morn<strong>in</strong>g dew. The<br />

average temperature dur<strong>in</strong>g the active stage of the v<strong>in</strong>es is 17.5º C. The average ra<strong>in</strong>fall is 600 litres per<br />

square metre.<br />

The region is one of open roll<strong>in</strong>g l<strong>an</strong>dscape <strong>an</strong>d it’s the unique soil that is so import<strong>an</strong>t to the v<strong>in</strong>es of<br />

the region. It’s the Albariza soils, white <strong>in</strong> colour is a loam soil formed by the <strong>in</strong>l<strong>an</strong>d sea dur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

Oligocene period.<br />

It is rich <strong>in</strong> calcium carbonate, clay <strong>an</strong>d silica. Its water retention properties are all import<strong>an</strong>t dur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

dry hot summer months.<br />

There are also smaller percentages of clay (Barros) <strong>an</strong>d s<strong>an</strong>d (arenas) soils.<br />

Page 65 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

(ii) Grape varieties.<br />

Airen - 95% of the Br<strong>an</strong>dy is produced us<strong>in</strong>g this grape. It is the most pl<strong>an</strong>ted grape variety <strong>in</strong> Spa<strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong>d<br />

<strong>in</strong> fact the World.<br />

It is a low yield<strong>in</strong>g variety with low acidity <strong>an</strong>d produces w<strong>in</strong>es with lots of fruit with the potential for<br />

higher alcohols, a different take which the Sp<strong>an</strong>ish say are perfect for distillation.<br />

It has a good resist<strong>an</strong>ce to drought<br />

Palom<strong>in</strong>o - 5% of the total production comes from the grape used ma<strong>in</strong>ly for Sherry.<br />

(iii) Harvest <strong>an</strong>d Viticulture.<br />

Harvests take place dur<strong>in</strong>g September each year; a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 10.5° Baume is required before the<br />

grapes c<strong>an</strong> be harvested. Grapes are tr<strong>an</strong>sported <strong>in</strong> 18kg (maximum) b<strong>in</strong>s to the w<strong>in</strong>ery as quickly as<br />

possible.<br />

(iv) V<strong>in</strong>ification.<br />

To quote the ‘Consejo Regulador del Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez’ website the w<strong>in</strong>e used for distillation<br />

“These must be w<strong>in</strong>es apt for hum<strong>an</strong> consumption.” This is not exactly a confident statement.<br />

There seems to be little ‘direction’ or legislation for the w<strong>in</strong>emak<strong>in</strong>g processes other th<strong>an</strong> the guidel<strong>in</strong>es<br />

from the region as a whole, i.e. for Sherry. (http://www.<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>dejerez.es, 2006)<br />

The f<strong>in</strong>al alcoholic strength of the w<strong>in</strong>e should be between 10.5 – 13% abv.<br />

(v) Distillation.<br />

The ratio of produc<strong>in</strong>g the spirit is somewhat higher th<strong>an</strong> that of Cognac, 1 litre of Br<strong>an</strong>dy requires the<br />

distillation of 3 litres of w<strong>in</strong>e (4kg of grapes)! A third of that <strong>in</strong> Cognac.<br />

Both the Copper Pot still, the ‘Alquitara <strong>an</strong>d the Column Still, also made from copper, are used <strong>in</strong> the<br />

production of the spirit.<br />

The major difference is that only a s<strong>in</strong>gle distillation from the Pot still is used. Due to the higher alcohol<br />

go<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>to the still, higher alcohol comes out, no need to distil aga<strong>in</strong>.<br />

Page 66 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Al the w<strong>in</strong>e to be distilled has been racked off its lees, no lees is used.<br />

The Pot stills are heated from direct heat from a ‘Holm-oak’ fire. This is a batch process with the<br />

distillate be<strong>in</strong>g separated <strong>in</strong>to head, Heart <strong>an</strong>d Tails, <strong>an</strong>d like <strong>South</strong> Africa the Heads <strong>an</strong>d Tails are<br />

discarded (re-distilled with the next batch). The Heart portion called the Hol<strong>an</strong>das has a strength of<br />

between 40 -70% abv.<br />

The copper column still is more modern <strong>an</strong>d is a cont<strong>in</strong>uous process produc<strong>in</strong>g ‘Distillates’ r<strong>an</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g from<br />

70 – 94.8% abv.<br />

The belief <strong>in</strong> Jerez is that the more the w<strong>in</strong>e is distilled the more it loses its character, so they only distil<br />

once.<br />

(vi) Age<strong>in</strong>g<br />

This is <strong>an</strong>other key difference, perhaps the most import<strong>an</strong>t difference between this <strong>an</strong>d the other<br />

quality <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’s of the world.<br />

All Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez is matured <strong>in</strong> 500 – 600 litre casks known as Butts made exclusively from Americ<strong>an</strong><br />

Oak traditionally sourced from the Appalachi<strong>an</strong> Mounta<strong>in</strong>s on the eastern side of North America.<br />

The key to the age<strong>in</strong>g process <strong>an</strong>d the reason for the darker, deeper colour of most Sp<strong>an</strong>ish <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’s is<br />

that these Butts had to have matured Sherry for at least 3 years before they c<strong>an</strong> be used for the Br<strong>an</strong>dy.<br />

Depend<strong>in</strong>g on the type of sherry held with<strong>in</strong> the character of the Br<strong>an</strong>dy will differ.<br />

These butts are then put <strong>in</strong>to the same ‘age<strong>in</strong>g system’ as used for Sherry, the Solera system.<br />

Figure 18: The Solera system<br />

( (Bi<strong>an</strong>cal<strong>an</strong>a, 2002)<br />

Page 67 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

This is the system of a row of barrels placed on the floor, the Solera. A second row is placed on top, the<br />

1 st Criadera (nursery) with <strong>an</strong>other row placed above that, the 2 nd Criadera <strong>an</strong>d so on. The oldest row is<br />

the bottom row <strong>an</strong>d the youngest is at the top.<br />

The f<strong>in</strong>al aged Br<strong>an</strong>dy is taken from the bottom row, the Solera with a maximum of ¼ of what’s <strong>in</strong> the<br />

barrel. The qu<strong>an</strong>tity taken out is replaced by the same qu<strong>an</strong>tity from the 1 st Criadera above <strong>an</strong>d that is<br />

filled by the 2 nd Criadera <strong>an</strong>d so on. The new distillate will be put <strong>in</strong>to the top row. The process is known<br />

as ‘Saca’. Creat<strong>in</strong>g a cont<strong>in</strong>uous blend<strong>in</strong>g of the youngest to the oldest spirit. Hence Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez will<br />

never have a v<strong>in</strong>tage or <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>dication of age. It is impossible to say after a period of time what the age<br />

<strong>an</strong>d percentages thereof with<strong>in</strong> the Solera.<br />

Some of these Solera systems <strong>in</strong> use have been s<strong>in</strong>ce the 19 th century.<br />

(vii) Styles<br />

The f<strong>in</strong>al blend<strong>in</strong>g of the Br<strong>an</strong>dy is to reduce the alcohol content as it comes out of the Solera by<br />

blend<strong>in</strong>g with distilled water to the bottl<strong>in</strong>g strength of 40 – 48% abv.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez is bottled under 3 categories:<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez Solera - a blend of m<strong>in</strong>imum 50% Hol<strong>an</strong>das <strong>an</strong>d maximum 50% Distillate, aged for a<br />

m<strong>in</strong>imum of 6 months (average 1 year) <strong>in</strong> the Solera system, with a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 150mg per 100cc of<br />

pure alcohol.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez Solera Reserva - a blend of m<strong>in</strong>imum 75% Hol<strong>an</strong>das <strong>an</strong>d maximum 25% Distillate, aged<br />

for a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 3 years (average 8 years) <strong>in</strong> the Solera system, with a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 200mg per 100cc of<br />

pure alcohol.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez Solera Gr<strong>an</strong> Reserva - A m<strong>in</strong>imum of 100% Hol<strong>an</strong>das. This is aged for longer with <strong>an</strong><br />

average of 10 years <strong>an</strong>d a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 250mg per 100cc of pure alcohol.<br />

(viii) Enjoy<strong>in</strong>g Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez<br />

Heat<strong>in</strong>g the glass of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is always a question raised <strong>an</strong>d someth<strong>in</strong>g that I am very touchy about when<br />

it’s served at a restaur<strong>an</strong>t <strong>an</strong>d it was a FAQ on the Consejo Regulador Del Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez website.<br />

If necessary one c<strong>an</strong> warm it slowly <strong>in</strong> ones palm to release more aromas <strong>an</strong>d the ideal temperature to<br />

serve Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez is “between 17-18 °C”.<br />

Page 68 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

As with the other Br<strong>an</strong>dy produc<strong>in</strong>g regions, Jerez is try<strong>in</strong>g to encourage (responsible) dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g of their<br />

products through mixology <strong>an</strong>d the cont<strong>in</strong>ued growth <strong>in</strong> the cocktail market as well as the more serious<br />

styles to be consumed slowly w<strong>an</strong>d neat.<br />

The most available Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez on the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> market are the Gr<strong>an</strong>d Duque d Alba<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy’s.<br />

The Solera Gr<strong>an</strong> Reserva is a quality Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>an</strong>d is available <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa. It is a blend of Airen <strong>an</strong>d<br />

Palom<strong>in</strong>o grapes.<br />

The fermentation was done at ‘low’ temperature <strong>an</strong>d lightly filtered leav<strong>in</strong>g a small amount of lees <strong>in</strong><br />

suspension for distillation.<br />

It is 100% is Hol<strong>an</strong>das distilled <strong>in</strong> Pot stills at 65 °C <strong>an</strong>d was aged <strong>in</strong> old Oloroso Sherry casks, which gave<br />

it its darker colour <strong>an</strong>d sweet v<strong>an</strong>illa notes.<br />

It entered the Solera system at the 10 th Criadera <strong>an</strong>d has 40% abv <strong>an</strong>d 17g/l Residual Sugar.<br />

(xii) SWOT <strong>an</strong>alysis of <strong>South</strong> Africa vs. Spa<strong>in</strong><br />

Strengths: The great success of <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> br<strong>an</strong>dies at <strong>in</strong>ternational competitions.<br />

The flavour profile of SA <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is more aligned with w<strong>in</strong>e trends, be<strong>in</strong>g more forward <strong>an</strong>d<br />

fruity as opposed to the dried fruit flavours <strong>an</strong>d sweetness of Jerez br<strong>an</strong>dies.<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Potstill <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is often lighter <strong>in</strong> alcohol th<strong>an</strong> those of Spa<strong>in</strong>.<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is lighter <strong>in</strong> body, not as lush or heavy as Sp<strong>an</strong>ish <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>, hence also<br />

better for the cocktail market.<br />

On the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> market Sp<strong>an</strong>ish <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> isn’t freely available with only a few on the<br />

shelves, which also tend to be pricey.<br />

Weaknesses: There have been very little exports <strong>in</strong>to Spa<strong>in</strong> over the last 10 years, <strong>in</strong> fact the last export<br />

<strong>in</strong>to Spa<strong>in</strong> was 504 litres (56 cases of 12) <strong>in</strong> 2005.<br />

Opportunities: There is a great opportunity to export the premium Potstill br<strong>an</strong>ds <strong>in</strong>to Spa<strong>in</strong>.<br />

Page 69 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Threats: Spa<strong>in</strong>’s excellent coverage with<strong>in</strong> Europe <strong>an</strong>d the United States with Sherry. They could<br />

3.4 Portugal<br />

easily <strong>in</strong>crease their coverage of Br<strong>an</strong>dy de Jerez from this platform.<br />

(Leite, 2009)<br />

Portuguese Br<strong>an</strong>dy is called Portuguese “Aguardente”. It is produced from all over the country.<br />

“Aguardente has several varieties. Aguardente vínica is distilled from w<strong>in</strong>e, either of good quality or<br />

undr<strong>in</strong>kable w<strong>in</strong>es. It is mostly used to fortify w<strong>in</strong>es such as port, or aged to make Aguardente velha (old<br />

burn<strong>in</strong>g water), a k<strong>in</strong>d of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.” (wikipedia.org)<br />

(i) The regions<br />

That statement doesn’t exactly <strong>in</strong>stil great confidence <strong>in</strong> the Br<strong>an</strong>dy’s of Portugal does it?<br />

The truth is that most of the Br<strong>an</strong>dy produced <strong>in</strong> Portugal is made from surplus grapes <strong>an</strong>d w<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy is produced all over Portugal with its ma<strong>in</strong> function as a fortification agent for Port.<br />

It is mostly from the w<strong>in</strong>es from the V<strong>in</strong>ho Verde region or “Lour<strong>in</strong>hã”, the only area <strong>in</strong> Portugal <strong>an</strong>d<br />

only the 4 th <strong>in</strong> the EU that has Controlled Orig<strong>in</strong> status for a Br<strong>an</strong>dy. The Lour<strong>in</strong>hã DOC was established<br />

on March 7, 1992, with the publication of Decree-Law No. 34/92 of 7 March.<br />

Page 70 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

(www.<strong>in</strong>fov<strong>in</strong>i.com, 2011)<br />

Lour<strong>in</strong>hã covers the counties of Lour<strong>in</strong>hã, Peniche, Obidos, Bombarral <strong>an</strong>d Torres Vedras. It has a very<br />

strong maritime climate be<strong>in</strong>g on the western coast with the Atl<strong>an</strong>tic Oce<strong>an</strong>.<br />

It boasts mild w<strong>in</strong>ters <strong>an</strong>d cool summers with the maximum temperature rarely be<strong>in</strong>g above 26°C.<br />

(ii) Grape Varieties.<br />

There is no limitation on the grape varieties allowed for the production of Aguardente except that they<br />

must come from the region (if stipulated) on the label <strong>an</strong>d be of Portuguese orig<strong>in</strong>.<br />

Both red <strong>an</strong>d white varieties are permitted with the ma<strong>in</strong> ones be<strong>in</strong>g, Alic<strong>an</strong>te Br<strong>an</strong>co, Alvarelhão <strong>an</strong>d<br />

Cab<strong>in</strong>da.<br />

(iii) Harvest <strong>an</strong>d Viticulture<br />

The harvest takes place <strong>in</strong> conjunction with the regular harvest <strong>in</strong> September. The v<strong>in</strong>es with<strong>in</strong> the<br />

Lour<strong>in</strong>ha DOC are bush v<strong>in</strong>es <strong>an</strong>d low <strong>in</strong> height.<br />

(iv) V<strong>in</strong>ification<br />

Page 71 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

There are no specific regulations regard<strong>in</strong>g the v<strong>in</strong>ification of the w<strong>in</strong>e to be used for the distillation <strong>in</strong>to<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. St<strong>an</strong>dard w<strong>in</strong>e mak<strong>in</strong>g is applied with the larger distilleries follow<strong>in</strong>g the basic guidel<strong>in</strong>es from<br />

the cognac region.<br />

In the Lour<strong>in</strong>hã DOC regulations are a bit tighter.<br />

The ‘W<strong>in</strong>e Commission <strong>in</strong> the Lisbon Region’ “recommends” the use of white grape varieties, Alic<strong>an</strong>te,<br />

Alvadurão, Broal Esp<strong>in</strong>ho, Marqu<strong>in</strong>has, Malvasia Rei (Sem<strong>in</strong>ar),<strong>an</strong>d Thalia <strong>an</strong>d the red grape Cab<strong>in</strong>da.<br />

The follow<strong>in</strong>g are also authorized for use, white varieties: Cercial, Fernão Pires, Rabo de Sheep, Syria<br />

(wardrobe), Seara Nova, <strong>an</strong>d Vital <strong>an</strong>d the red varieties: Carign<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d Periquita <strong>an</strong>d T<strong>in</strong>ta Miuda.<br />

(www.cm-lour<strong>in</strong>ha.pt, 2010)<br />

Once Harvested the grapes are crushed <strong>an</strong>d fermented to a maximum alcohol of 10% abv. No<br />

preservative is permitted <strong>in</strong>to the w<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

(v) Distillation<br />

The Distillation c<strong>an</strong> be done <strong>in</strong> a s<strong>in</strong>gle cont<strong>in</strong>uous process <strong>in</strong> a column still where the result<strong>in</strong>g spirit<br />

c<strong>an</strong>not exceed 78% abv or <strong>in</strong> batches <strong>in</strong> a Copper Pot still with the spirit have a maximum of 72% abv.<br />

(vi) Age<strong>in</strong>g<br />

This has to be done <strong>in</strong> wooden casks of a capacity less th<strong>an</strong> 1000 litres.<br />

The major types of wood are Americ<strong>an</strong> Oak, French Oak, Portuguese Oak <strong>an</strong>d Portuguese Chestnut.<br />

In fact there have been several research papers written on the effects of different timbers on the same<br />

spirit, some up to 40 different types.<br />

The m<strong>in</strong>imum time for the Br<strong>an</strong>dy to have spent <strong>in</strong> cask is 6 months <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> Lour<strong>in</strong>hã the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> must<br />

age <strong>in</strong> oak barrels of no larger the 800 litres for a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 7 years.<br />

Lour<strong>in</strong>hã br<strong>an</strong>dies may not be sold before the end of 24 months of bottle age.<br />

(www.cm-lour<strong>in</strong>ha.pt, 2010)<br />

Page 72 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

(vii) Styles<br />

Portuguese <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> general is made <strong>in</strong> styles that reta<strong>in</strong> the sharp <strong>an</strong>d fiery nature that the Port<br />

producers w<strong>an</strong>t for the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> used <strong>in</strong> the Fortification of Ports. They tend to be very dark <strong>in</strong> colour <strong>an</strong>d<br />

fairly young. Lour<strong>in</strong>hã br<strong>an</strong>dies are far smoother, particularly those mak<strong>in</strong>g use of potstills <strong>an</strong>d are also<br />

far older.<br />

Alli<strong>an</strong>ce<br />

Alli<strong>an</strong>ce XO 40 Years has <strong>an</strong> alcohol by volume strength of 40%. It was distilled <strong>in</strong> 1963 <strong>in</strong> P<br />

pot stills <strong>an</strong>d distilled twice.<br />

It was aged <strong>in</strong> French, Americ<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d Portuguese oak barrels for 40 years.<br />

(Ali<strong>an</strong>ca, 2009)<br />

1920<br />

1920 Br<strong>an</strong>dy, the biggest br<strong>an</strong>d of Portuguese Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa <strong>an</strong>d a staple <strong>in</strong> every<br />

Portuguese home <strong>an</strong>d restaur<strong>an</strong>t is made by Casa Carvalho, Ribeiro & Ferreira <strong>an</strong>d bottled <strong>an</strong>d<br />

distributed by Sym<strong>in</strong>gton’s. It is bottled <strong>in</strong> 1 litre bottles at 43% abv.<br />

(viii) SWOT <strong>an</strong>alysis of <strong>South</strong> Africa vs. Portugal<br />

Strengths: The flavour profile of SA <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is more aligned with w<strong>in</strong>e trends, be<strong>in</strong>g more forward <strong>an</strong>d<br />

fruity as opposed to Portugal’s more l<strong>in</strong>ear <strong>an</strong>d direct sweet <strong>an</strong>d often baked fruit<br />

character.<br />

Portuguese <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa is seen as a cheap alternative, often <strong>in</strong> less th<strong>an</strong><br />

appeal<strong>in</strong>g packag<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

Weaknesses: There have not been <strong>an</strong>y exports <strong>in</strong>to Portugal for the last few years<br />

Opportunities: Identify<strong>in</strong>g Portugal as <strong>an</strong> export market for both <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> blended <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d the<br />

premium potstill br<strong>an</strong>dies.<br />

Portugal could also be a market for three to five year old potstill br<strong>an</strong>dies.<br />

Threats: There is a large Portuguese community <strong>an</strong>d a vast number of Portuguese restaur<strong>an</strong>ts which<br />

seem to support the Portuguese br<strong>an</strong>dies.<br />

Page 73 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

4) Other countries<br />

4.1 Germ<strong>an</strong>y<br />

Germ<strong>an</strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> or ‘We<strong>in</strong>br<strong>an</strong>d’ is almost exclusively made from w<strong>in</strong>e from Fr<strong>an</strong>ce or Spa<strong>in</strong>. The local<br />

grapes are far too valued to use to produce a <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> so the distillers are forced to source from<br />

elsewhere.<br />

Pot Stills are mostly used <strong>in</strong> Germ<strong>an</strong>y <strong>an</strong>d double distillation.<br />

The m<strong>in</strong>imum age<strong>in</strong>g period is 6 months <strong>in</strong> oak; br<strong>an</strong>dies aged for longer th<strong>an</strong> a year are called ‘Uralt’ or<br />

‘Alter’ me<strong>an</strong><strong>in</strong>g ‘older’.<br />

The major Germ<strong>an</strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> br<strong>an</strong>d known for its quality sources its grapes entirely from the Charente<br />

region of Fr<strong>an</strong>ce. The w<strong>in</strong>e is made by the grape grower <strong>in</strong> Fr<strong>an</strong>ce.<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>es are distilled twice <strong>in</strong> Copper pot Stills with its lees<br />

The distillate is then matured <strong>in</strong> French Oak casks from the Limous<strong>in</strong> forest with a capacity of 300 litres.<br />

The legislation requires a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 6 months <strong>in</strong> cask but is traditionally aged for 2 – 4 years,<br />

considerably longer for the premium <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

Asbach is the biggest br<strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong> Germ<strong>an</strong>y.<br />

The Asbach Uralt (one of Germ<strong>an</strong>y’s largest Br<strong>an</strong>dy br<strong>an</strong>ds) spends 24-30 months <strong>in</strong> cask <strong>an</strong>d is bottled<br />

at 40% abv.<br />

Asbach Urbr<strong>an</strong>d spends 24-30 months <strong>in</strong> cask <strong>an</strong>d is bottled at 40% abv.<br />

Asbach Privatbr<strong>an</strong>d, Asbach Spezialbr<strong>an</strong>d <strong>an</strong>d Asbach Selection have the age on the bottle like whiskeys,<br />

8, 15 <strong>an</strong>d 21 years old respectively. All 40%abv.<br />

The r<strong>an</strong>ge also has a v<strong>in</strong>tage 1972 bottled on the 15 th November 2000, at 40% abv.<br />

(Asbach, 2010)<br />

Page 74 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

4.2 United States of America<br />

The majority of Americ<strong>an</strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy comes from California.<br />

At the end of World War 2 the University of California Davis set out to develop a ‘Californi<strong>an</strong> style’ which<br />

is lighter <strong>in</strong> body with a cle<strong>an</strong> palate, perfect to mix with.<br />

Most modern Americ<strong>an</strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dies are made us<strong>in</strong>g table grapes such as Thompson Seedless or Flame<br />

Tokay <strong>an</strong>d distilled <strong>in</strong> Column stills.<br />

There are however boutique distillers that are bas<strong>in</strong>g their product on the Cognac process, us<strong>in</strong>g Pot<br />

stills, the double distillation method <strong>an</strong>d French grapes Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c, Colombard <strong>an</strong>d Folle Bl<strong>an</strong>che.<br />

The age<strong>in</strong>g period is from 2 to 12 years on average <strong>in</strong> Americ<strong>an</strong> oak (old Bourbon barrels), French or<br />

Sp<strong>an</strong>ish wood.<br />

VS, VSOP <strong>an</strong>d XO are used on Americ<strong>an</strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> labels; they do not however have control over the use of<br />

these <strong>in</strong>dications.<br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to regulations set out by Alcohol <strong>an</strong>d Tobacco Tax <strong>an</strong>d Trade Bureau, Treasury 27 CFR Ch. I<br />

(4–1–08 Edition)<br />

“Class 4; <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. ‘‘Br<strong>an</strong>dy’’ is <strong>an</strong> alcoholic distillate from the fermented juice, mash, or w<strong>in</strong>e of fruit, or<br />

from the residue thereof, produced at less th<strong>an</strong> 190° proof <strong>in</strong> such m<strong>an</strong>ner that the distillate possesses<br />

the taste, aroma, <strong>an</strong>d characteristics generally attributed to the product, <strong>an</strong>d bottled at not less th<strong>an</strong> 80°<br />

proof. Br<strong>an</strong>dy, or mixtures thereof, not conform<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>an</strong>y of the st<strong>an</strong>dards <strong>in</strong> paragraphs (d) (1) through<br />

(8) of this section shall be designated as ‘‘<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’’, <strong>an</strong>d such designation shall be immediately followed<br />

by a truthful <strong>an</strong>d adequate statement of composition.”<br />

(Bureau, 2008)<br />

Christi<strong>an</strong> Brothers<br />

Their VS Br<strong>an</strong>dy is available locally.<br />

VS: Interest<strong>in</strong>gly it is a blend of Americ<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d ‘Europe<strong>an</strong>’ <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>, from pot still distillation <strong>an</strong>d aged<br />

from 2 – 6 years <strong>in</strong> Bourbon Barrels.<br />

VSOP: Pot still distilled blend of Americ<strong>an</strong> <strong>an</strong>d Europe<strong>an</strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dies, aged 6-10 years <strong>in</strong> Bourbon casks.<br />

Page 75 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

XO: All Americ<strong>an</strong> grapes, Cuvees are specially selected from both Column <strong>an</strong>d Pot still distillates <strong>an</strong>d are<br />

matured <strong>in</strong> small selected oak casks.<br />

Frost: A white (clear) <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. It is distilled us<strong>in</strong>g “a unique distillation process” <strong>an</strong>d spends 18 months <strong>in</strong><br />

large old casks.<br />

(Christi<strong>an</strong>BrothersBr<strong>an</strong>dy, 2010)<br />

Jaxon Keys<br />

The Jaxon Keys Distillery <strong>in</strong> Mendoch<strong>in</strong>o County California produces 3 <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’s Rare, Old Stock <strong>an</strong>d<br />

Signature Reserve. All 3 are produced <strong>in</strong> Alambic Pot Stills <strong>an</strong>d are made us<strong>in</strong>g the Colombard grape <strong>an</strong>d<br />

matured <strong>in</strong> French oak barrels for 5 – 7 years for the Rare, 7-10 years for the Old Stock <strong>an</strong>d 20-25 years<br />

for the Signature Reserve.<br />

Korbel Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

(JaxonKeys, 2009)<br />

Made at Korbel Champagne Cellars <strong>in</strong> the Sonoma Valley California is made us<strong>in</strong>g the Cognac template.<br />

The grape used is predom<strong>in</strong>ately (French) Colombard <strong>an</strong>d Chen<strong>in</strong> Bl<strong>an</strong>c <strong>an</strong>d also use red grapes Barbera<br />

<strong>an</strong>d Z<strong>in</strong>f<strong>an</strong>del.<br />

All the br<strong>an</strong>dies are double batch distilled <strong>in</strong> copper pot stills.<br />

The Korbel California Br<strong>an</strong>dy spends 2 years <strong>in</strong> barrels <strong>an</strong>d is bottled at 80 proof (40% abv)<br />

The Korbel Gold Reserve VSOP spends over 2 years <strong>in</strong> barrels that are first fill Jack D<strong>an</strong>iels casks, <strong>an</strong>d is<br />

bottles at 80 proof (40% abv)<br />

The Korbel XS (Extra Smooth) spends 2 years <strong>in</strong> cask <strong>an</strong>d is <strong>in</strong>fused with “Madagascar v<strong>an</strong>illa, or<strong>an</strong>ge<br />

essence <strong>an</strong>d other exotic flavours”<br />

4.3 Italy<br />

(Korbel, 2009)<br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to ‘W<strong>in</strong>e science: pr<strong>in</strong>ciples <strong>an</strong>d applications’, by Ronald S. Jackson <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> production <strong>in</strong> Italy<br />

could go back as early as the 1100’s. (Jackson, 1999)<br />

Italy has no specific <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> produc<strong>in</strong>g regions. It is made all across the country with special focus from<br />

Sicily, Trent<strong>in</strong>o, Veneto <strong>an</strong>d Emilia Romagna.<br />

Grape Br<strong>an</strong>dy has a long history <strong>in</strong> Italy. It has however, always been <strong>in</strong> the shadow of grappa, the Husk<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> from Italy.<br />

Page 76 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Grappa, Italy’s Husk or Pomace <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is made us<strong>in</strong>g the sk<strong>in</strong>s, pips, stalks <strong>an</strong>d solid pulp from the<br />

press<strong>in</strong>gs. This is distilled us<strong>in</strong>g a ‘Ba<strong>in</strong>-Marie’ <strong>an</strong>d steam distillation <strong>an</strong>d Grappa is the result.<br />

There has always been a very good market for Grappa both locally <strong>an</strong>d <strong>in</strong>ternationally so producers tend<br />

to produce this style of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

Grape w<strong>in</strong>e Br<strong>an</strong>dy is made from the press juice, (sometimes with husks added)<br />

Column stills <strong>an</strong>d s<strong>in</strong>gle distillation is st<strong>an</strong>dard <strong>an</strong>d most commonly used although artis<strong>an</strong>al producers<br />

are us<strong>in</strong>g double distillation <strong>in</strong> Pot stills.<br />

The <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is aged <strong>in</strong> Oak for a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 1 year with the average be<strong>in</strong>g closer to 6 – 8 years.<br />

Often terms such as VS, Old, XO or VSOP or Vecchio or Stravecchio are used on the label. They have no<br />

age stipulation or requirement <strong>an</strong>d are solely market<strong>in</strong>g terms.<br />

Itali<strong>an</strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy’s are made from m<strong>an</strong>y grape varieties as most are made from the local grape varieties<br />

from their respective regions.<br />

The Stock 84 Br<strong>an</strong>dy VSOP from Trieste <strong>in</strong> Italy is made exclusively form Trebbi<strong>an</strong>o grapes.<br />

But like the grappa’s they c<strong>an</strong> be made from the w<strong>in</strong>e style of the region such as Amarone Grappa.<br />

It is sometimes confus<strong>in</strong>g when buy<strong>in</strong>g a <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> from Italy. The majority of those available are <strong>in</strong> fact<br />

‘husk’ <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’s or have a portion of husk <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> blended <strong>in</strong> with the grape w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

The Carpene Malvolit Br<strong>an</strong>dy Reserva 7, available <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa has ‘Br<strong>an</strong>dy’ on the label when <strong>in</strong> fact<br />

it is a husk <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

4.4 Greece<br />

With the worship of Dionysus <strong>an</strong>d the w<strong>in</strong>e he watched over the culture of w<strong>in</strong>e spread through the<br />

Greek colonies <strong>an</strong>d w<strong>in</strong>e became a central part of Greek life.<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy production started as with elsewhere <strong>in</strong> the world to preserve its w<strong>in</strong>es <strong>an</strong>d the <strong>in</strong>vent of the<br />

sweet fortified w<strong>in</strong>es of Patras <strong>an</strong>d Samos.<br />

Page 77 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Greek <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is dom<strong>in</strong>ated by 1 br<strong>an</strong>d. Although <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is made throughout the w<strong>in</strong>e regions of Greece<br />

it is known only for its Metaxa <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. Metaxa really isn’t a <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>, it’s actually a liqueur. Metaxa’s<br />

grapes come from the warm region of Attica <strong>in</strong> Greece namely Savati<strong>an</strong>o, Sult<strong>an</strong><strong>in</strong>a <strong>an</strong>d Black Cor<strong>in</strong>th<br />

are the grape varieties that are used to make the base w<strong>in</strong>e. The grapes are left to dry <strong>in</strong> the sun.<br />

The w<strong>in</strong>e is the distilled twice us<strong>in</strong>g pot stills.<br />

The distillate is then matured <strong>in</strong> 300 Limous<strong>in</strong> casks for up to 30 years depend<strong>in</strong>g on the type of Metaxa<br />

it will be used <strong>in</strong>. So far a <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

The matured <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is then blended with aged Muscat w<strong>in</strong>e from Samos <strong>an</strong>d Limnos isl<strong>an</strong>ds.<br />

Then rose petals <strong>an</strong>d other bot<strong>an</strong>icals are added <strong>an</strong>d returned to cask to marry for a further 6 months. It<br />

is cold filtered <strong>an</strong>d bottled.<br />

It is unclear if the Metaxa ‘super premium bottl<strong>in</strong>g, some of which are s<strong>in</strong>gle cask bottl<strong>in</strong>g, are pure<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> or not.<br />

Metaxa, like all other <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> producers are look<strong>in</strong>g at new ways to attract new dr<strong>in</strong>kers, they took the<br />

step of open<strong>in</strong>g Metaxa Bay <strong>in</strong> the heart of Berl<strong>in</strong> where it c<strong>an</strong> accommodate 2,500 people <strong>in</strong> a beach<br />

sett<strong>in</strong>g every day of the week <strong>an</strong>d the sponsorship of the Gabby awards are just 2 ways the br<strong>an</strong>d is<br />

try<strong>in</strong>g to open new markets.<br />

(Metaxa, 2010)<br />

4.5 Australia<br />

Australia produces <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> from m<strong>an</strong>y varieties <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c, Pedro Ximenez, Palom<strong>in</strong>o,<br />

Trebbi<strong>an</strong>o, Sult<strong>an</strong>a <strong>an</strong>d Doradillo.<br />

They use both Pot stills <strong>an</strong>d column stills <strong>an</strong>d blends of the two when ‘blended <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’ must appear on<br />

the label.<br />

The age stipulations are:<br />

Matured - aged m<strong>in</strong>imum of 2 years<br />

Old - aged m<strong>in</strong>imum of 5 years<br />

Very Old - aged m<strong>in</strong>imum of 10 years.<br />

Australi<strong>an</strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is almost exclusively sold with<strong>in</strong> Australia itself.<br />

Thomas Hardy <strong>an</strong>d Son’s Old Br<strong>an</strong>dy VSOP <strong>an</strong>d Penfolds Stock 84 are 2 of Australia’s biggest br<strong>an</strong>ds.<br />

Page 78 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

4.6 Cyprus<br />

Cyprus <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is used to fortify its most famous w<strong>in</strong>e, the Com<strong>an</strong>daria, which is a Port like fortified<br />

w<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

Its Br<strong>an</strong>dy is made from xynisteri grapes <strong>an</strong>d is mostly double distilled <strong>in</strong> pot stills. The result is a spirit<br />

with a lower alcohol th<strong>an</strong> most other <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> at 32 %abv.<br />

It is the base of the national dr<strong>in</strong>k of Cyprus, the Br<strong>an</strong>dy Sour cocktail.<br />

Keo is the largest dr<strong>in</strong>ks comp<strong>an</strong>y on the isl<strong>an</strong>d produc<strong>in</strong>g everyth<strong>in</strong>g from m<strong>in</strong>eral water <strong>an</strong>d soft dr<strong>in</strong>ks<br />

to beer, w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>.<br />

There Br<strong>an</strong>dy r<strong>an</strong>ge <strong>in</strong>cludes the Keo VSOP Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>an</strong>d the excellent Five K<strong>in</strong>gs Br<strong>an</strong>dy, made from the<br />

xynisteri grape selected from v<strong>in</strong>eyards <strong>in</strong> the Troodos Mounta<strong>in</strong>s. It is double distilled <strong>in</strong> copper pot still<br />

<strong>an</strong>d only the heart of the second distillation is matured <strong>in</strong> French Limous<strong>in</strong> barrels for a m<strong>in</strong>imum of 15<br />

years.<br />

Ziv<strong>an</strong>ia is the Pomace Br<strong>an</strong>dy form Cyprus.<br />

4.7 Holl<strong>an</strong>d<br />

In spite of be<strong>in</strong>g the creators of Br<strong>an</strong>dewijn the Dutch don't really have <strong>an</strong>y <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> worth not<strong>in</strong>g. Most<br />

of their <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> production is used for the base for Advocaat <strong>an</strong>d other fruit based spirits.<br />

4.8 <strong>South</strong> America<br />

Pisco is Br<strong>an</strong>dy distilled from Muscat w<strong>in</strong>es. It is best known <strong>in</strong> Peru, Bolivia, Argent<strong>in</strong>a <strong>an</strong>d Chile.<br />

The <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is matured <strong>in</strong> clay casks to between 33 -45% abv.<br />

It is the base for the Pisco Sours, the national cocktail of Peru.<br />

Ocucaje Moscatel Pisco de Lca is a lead<strong>in</strong>g br<strong>an</strong>d from Peru.<br />

4.9 India<br />

Across India both types of stills are used but the Potstill is used more often for the larger <strong>an</strong>d better<br />

br<strong>an</strong>ds. A large selection of grape varieties are used across India, from the <strong>in</strong>digenous such as<br />

Anabeshahi, Arkavati <strong>an</strong>d Arkashyam <strong>an</strong>d non <strong>in</strong>digenous Sult<strong>an</strong>a (which has the most pl<strong>an</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs),<br />

B<strong>an</strong>galore Blue (Isabella) <strong>an</strong>d Gulabi (Black Muscat) <strong>an</strong>d then more traditional <strong>in</strong>ternational varieties like<br />

Sauvignon bl<strong>an</strong>c, Z<strong>in</strong>f<strong>an</strong>del, Chen<strong>in</strong> bl<strong>an</strong>c <strong>an</strong>d Clairette <strong>an</strong>d Airen, Garnacha, Bobal, Monastrell.<br />

Page 79 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

India’s UB Group United spirits is the largest spirits comp<strong>an</strong>y. It produces McDowell’s No 1 <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>; the<br />

world’s largest sell<strong>in</strong>g <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> with 9.8 million cases sold <strong>in</strong> 2009.<br />

It is made from <strong>in</strong>digenous <strong>an</strong>d other grapes <strong>an</strong>d double distilled <strong>in</strong> copper pot stills. The <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is then<br />

matured <strong>in</strong> Sal- wood casks.<br />

They also produce the Honey Bee Br<strong>an</strong>dy sell<strong>in</strong>g 3.9 million cases <strong>in</strong> 2009.<br />

Joie de Fr<strong>an</strong>ce premium <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>, Exshaw VSOP premium <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d Exshaw VSOP Deluxe <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> are the<br />

other big br<strong>an</strong>ds from United Spirits.<br />

(i) SWOT <strong>an</strong>alysis of <strong>South</strong> Africa vs. the other produc<strong>in</strong>g countries.<br />

Strengths: Most of the smaller <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> produc<strong>in</strong>g countries has a focus on their own domestic<br />

markets.<br />

IN m<strong>an</strong>y smaller produc<strong>in</strong>g countries <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is still made as a by-product of w<strong>in</strong>e mak<strong>in</strong>g.<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa’s cont<strong>in</strong>ued success at <strong>in</strong>ternational competitions.<br />

Weaknesses: <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is not receiv<strong>in</strong>g the recognition it is due from <strong>in</strong>ternational press <strong>an</strong>d<br />

publications on <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>an</strong>d spirits.<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa does not produce the volumes to have a foot<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> all these markets.<br />

Opportunities: Make the <strong>in</strong>ternational press <strong>an</strong>d public aware of the successes at <strong>in</strong>ternational<br />

competitions.<br />

There is opportunity <strong>in</strong> each of these markets as <strong>South</strong> Africa produces a superior product<br />

with these countries <strong>an</strong>d c<strong>an</strong> surely compete with on quality alone. Possibly to take<br />

adv<strong>an</strong>tage of Cognacs base <strong>an</strong>d market as a direct competitor to Cognac.<br />

Threats: There is no direct threat from these produc<strong>in</strong>g countries <strong>in</strong> the markets where <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

<strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> already has a base <strong>in</strong>. The threat is if these countries were to start compet<strong>in</strong>g with<br />

<strong>South</strong> Africa <strong>in</strong> other markets or if <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> br<strong>an</strong>dies were to enter these countries<br />

with signific<strong>an</strong>t <strong>in</strong>terest <strong>in</strong> compet<strong>in</strong>g with them.<br />

Page 80 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

4.10 Compar<strong>in</strong>g the legislation of the major regions<br />

Table 2: A comparison of major aspects of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> each country<br />

Country Type of<br />

<strong>South</strong><br />

Africa<br />

Fr<strong>an</strong>ce<br />

(Br<strong>an</strong>dy)<br />

Still<br />

Charente<br />

Pot still<br />

Pot <strong>an</strong>d<br />

Column<br />

Stills<br />

Cognac Charente<br />

Pot Still<br />

Styles Appellati<br />

Blended<br />

V<strong>in</strong>tage<br />

Pot Still<br />

Estate<br />

(designation<br />

<strong>an</strong>y style)<br />

VS<br />

VSOP<br />

XO<br />

VS<br />

VSOP<br />

XO<br />

Hors D ‘Age<br />

Napoleon<br />

Age specific<br />

V<strong>in</strong>tage<br />

Cask<br />

strength<br />

ons<br />

Grape<br />

Varieties<br />

None Chen<strong>in</strong><br />

F<strong>in</strong>e de<br />

Bordeaux<br />

F<strong>in</strong>e de<br />

Bourgogne<br />

F<strong>in</strong>e de la<br />

Marne (Ch<br />

ampagne)<br />

Gr<strong>an</strong>d<br />

Champagn<br />

e<br />

Petit<br />

Champagn<br />

e<br />

Borderies<br />

F<strong>in</strong> Bois<br />

Bons Bois<br />

Bois<br />

Ord<strong>in</strong>aires<br />

bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

Colombar(d)<br />

Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

Chardonnay<br />

Regional<br />

Grapes<br />

Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

Folle<br />

Bl<strong>an</strong>che<br />

Colombard<br />

Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

Folle<br />

Bl<strong>an</strong>che<br />

Colombard<br />

Type of<br />

cask<br />

300 l<br />

French<br />

Oak<br />

270-450 l<br />

French<br />

Oak<br />

270-450l<br />

French<br />

Oak<br />

Tronçais<br />

Limous<strong>in</strong><br />

M<strong>in</strong>im<br />

um age<br />

<strong>in</strong> cask<br />

3 years<br />

1 Year<br />

2 Years<br />

Page 81 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Country Type of<br />

Still<br />

Armagnac Alambic<br />

still<br />

Spa<strong>in</strong> Pot <strong>an</strong>d<br />

Column<br />

Stills<br />

Portugal Column<br />

Still<br />

Pot still<br />

Germ<strong>an</strong>y Ma<strong>in</strong>ly<br />

Pot still<br />

Italy Ma<strong>in</strong>ly<br />

column<br />

still<br />

Styles Appellatio<br />

3 star<br />

VSOP<br />

XO<br />

Hors D ‘Age<br />

Napoleon<br />

Age specific<br />

V<strong>in</strong>tage<br />

Cask<br />

strength<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy de<br />

Jerez –<br />

Solera<br />

-Solera<br />

Reserva<br />

-Solera Gr<strong>an</strong><br />

Reserva<br />

ns<br />

Bas<br />

Armagnac<br />

Ténaréze<br />

Haut-<br />

Armagnac<br />

Grape<br />

Varieties<br />

Ugni bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

(St.<br />

Emillion)<br />

Folle<br />

Bl<strong>an</strong>che<br />

Baco 22 A<br />

Jerez Airen<br />

Colombard<br />

Palom<strong>in</strong>o<br />

Aguardente Lour<strong>in</strong>hã Alic<strong>an</strong>te<br />

Br<strong>an</strong>co<br />

Alvarelhão<br />

Cab<strong>in</strong>da<br />

We<strong>in</strong>br<strong>an</strong>d Ugni bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

Ma<strong>in</strong>ly<br />

French<br />

Grapes)<br />

Type of<br />

cask<br />

400 l<br />

French<br />

Oak<br />

Limous<strong>in</strong><br />

Gascony<br />

500 –<br />

600 l<br />

America<br />

n Oak<br />

Old<br />

Sherry<br />

Butts<br />

1000 l<br />

max<br />

Oak<br />

America<br />

n<br />

French<br />

Chestnut<br />

Portugue<br />

se<br />

French<br />

oak<br />

Trebbi<strong>an</strong>o Oak 6<br />

M<strong>in</strong>imu<br />

m age<br />

<strong>in</strong> cask<br />

1 Year<br />

6<br />

Months<br />

6<br />

Months<br />

6<br />

Months<br />

Months<br />

Page 82 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Country Type of<br />

Still<br />

USA Ma<strong>in</strong>ly<br />

column<br />

still<br />

Greece Ma<strong>in</strong>ly<br />

column<br />

still<br />

Cyprus Ma<strong>in</strong>ly<br />

Pot still<br />

Australia Both<br />

Potstill<br />

<strong>an</strong>d<br />

column<br />

still<br />

India Ma<strong>in</strong>ly<br />

Pot still<br />

Styles Appellatio<br />

Follow the<br />

VS to XO<br />

system with<br />

less<br />

str<strong>in</strong>gent<br />

age<br />

requirement<br />

s<br />

Follow the<br />

VS to XO<br />

system with<br />

less<br />

str<strong>in</strong>gent<br />

age<br />

requirement<br />

s<br />

Follow the<br />

VS to XO<br />

system with<br />

less<br />

str<strong>in</strong>gent<br />

age<br />

requirement<br />

s<br />

ns<br />

Grape<br />

Varieties<br />

California Thomson<br />

seedless<br />

Flame Tokay<br />

Ugni bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

Savati<strong>an</strong>o<br />

Sult<strong>an</strong><strong>in</strong>a<br />

Black<br />

Cor<strong>in</strong>th<br />

Type of<br />

cask<br />

America<br />

n Oak<br />

Bourbon<br />

Casks<br />

300 l<br />

French<br />

Oak<br />

Xynisteri Wooden<br />

Ugni Bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

Pedro<br />

Ximenez<br />

Palom<strong>in</strong>o<br />

Trebbi<strong>an</strong>o<br />

Sult<strong>an</strong>a<br />

Doradillo<br />

Sult<strong>an</strong>a<br />

Anabeshahi<br />

Chen<strong>in</strong><br />

bl<strong>an</strong>c<br />

Airen<br />

B<strong>an</strong>galore<br />

Blue<br />

(Isabella)<br />

Vats,<br />

ma<strong>in</strong>ly<br />

French<br />

Oak<br />

Oak<br />

ma<strong>in</strong>ly<br />

French<br />

Sal –<br />

Wood<br />

vats<br />

M<strong>in</strong>imu<br />

m age<br />

<strong>in</strong> cask<br />

6<br />

Months<br />

1 year<br />

6<br />

Months<br />

2 years<br />

1 Year<br />

Page 83 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

5 International Competitions<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy has aga<strong>in</strong> triumphed at the IWSC <strong>in</strong> London this year.<br />

The latest w<strong>in</strong>ner of the Distell best Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>in</strong> the world Trophy is the V<strong>an</strong> Ryn’s 20 Year old reserve.<br />

It is the 5 consecutive years <strong>in</strong> which a <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy has won the award.<br />

The complete list of w<strong>in</strong>ners:<br />

INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRIT COMPETITION<br />

Best Br<strong>an</strong>dy <strong>in</strong> the World<br />

2011<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Ryn’s 20 Year old Reserve - Distell Ltd <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

2010<br />

Laborie Alambic 5 Year old - KWV International, <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

2009<br />

Joseph Barry 10 Year Old Pot Still - <strong>South</strong>ern <strong>Cape</strong> V<strong>in</strong>eyards<br />

2008<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's Collectors Reserve 20 Year Old - Distell Ltd, <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

2007<br />

KWV 15 Year Old Br<strong>an</strong>dy - KWV, <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

2006<br />

Torres 20 - Miguel Torres SA, Spa<strong>in</strong><br />

2005<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's Collection Reserve 12 Year Old - Distell Ltd, <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

2004<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's Collection Reserve 12 Year Old - Distell Ltd, <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

Page 84 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

2003<br />

St Agnes Very Old Br<strong>an</strong>dy XO - Angove's Pty, Australia<br />

2002<br />

RMS Alambic Br<strong>an</strong>dy QE 14 Year Old - RMS Distillery<br />

2001<br />

Oude Molen VOV 14 Year Old Br<strong>an</strong>dy - <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> W<strong>in</strong>e & Spirits, <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

2000<br />

Imoya VSOP <strong>Cape</strong> Alambic Br<strong>an</strong>dy - KWV, <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

1999<br />

Oude Molen VOV 14 Year Old Br<strong>an</strong>dy - Gilbeys Distillers, <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

1998<br />

Carmel Br<strong>an</strong>dy 100 - 9 Year Old - Carmel, Israel<br />

1997<br />

Torres 20 Br<strong>an</strong>dy - 8 Year Old - Miguel Torres SA, Spa<strong>in</strong><br />

1996<br />

Baron Estate 3 Year Old Br<strong>an</strong>dy - Baron W<strong>in</strong>e Cellars, Israel<br />

1995<br />

Sydney Back Br<strong>an</strong>dy - Backsberg Estate, <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

1994<br />

Calvados Boulard - SA Calvados Boulard<br />

1993<br />

Mildara Pot Still Br<strong>an</strong>dy - Mildara, Australia<br />

1992<br />

Page 85 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Vicchia Romagna Riserva Rara 15 Year Old - Gio Buton Sps, Italy<br />

1991<br />

KWV 10 Year Old Br<strong>an</strong>dy - KWV, <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

1990<br />

KWV 20 Year Old Br<strong>an</strong>dy - KWV, <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

INTERNATIONAL SPIRITS CHALLENGE RESULTS 2011<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> medals<br />

Producer Spirit Award<br />

KWV SA KWV 10 Year old Br<strong>an</strong>dy Best Br<strong>an</strong>dy Title<br />

Gold<br />

KWV SA KWV 15 Year old Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold<br />

KWV SA KWV 10 Year old Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold<br />

Distell Limited V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's 12 Year Old Distillers Reserve Silver<br />

Distell Limited V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's 15 Year Old F<strong>in</strong>e Cask Reserve Silver<br />

Distell Limited Oude Meester 12 Year Old Reserve Silver<br />

Distell Limited Klipdrift Gold Silver<br />

KWV SA Imoya Silver<br />

KWV SA KWV 20 Year old Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver<br />

Oude Molen Distillery Oude Molen VOV Rare V<strong>in</strong>tage Select Silver<br />

Backsberg Estate Cellars Sydney Back NV Bronze<br />

Backsberg Estate Cellars Sydney Back 10year Bronze<br />

Distell Limited V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's 20 Year Old Collectors Reserve Bronze<br />

Distell Limited Flight of the Fish Eagle Bronze<br />

Distell Limited Collison's White Gold Bronze<br />

Page 86 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Distell Limited Nederberg Solera Bronze<br />

Distell Limited Uitkyk 10 Year Estate Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Bronze<br />

Distell Limited Oude Meester 18 Year Old Sovereign Bronze<br />

Distell Limited Oude Meester Dem<strong>an</strong>t Bronze<br />

KWV SA Laborie Alambic Bronze<br />

Oude Molen Distillery Oude Molen Rene S<strong>in</strong>gle Cask Bronze<br />

CONCOURS MONDIAL DE BRUXELLES RESULTS 2011<br />

Spirit Award Producer<br />

Klipdrift Gold Médaille d'Or Distell Ltd<br />

Laborie Alambic Br<strong>an</strong>dy Médaille d'Or KWV Ltd<br />

LadiSmith 8 Year V<strong>in</strong>tage Pot Still Br<strong>an</strong>dy Médaille d'Or <strong>South</strong>ern <strong>Cape</strong> V<strong>in</strong>eyards<br />

Oude Meester 12 Year Old Reserve Médaille d'Or Distell Ltd<br />

Oude Meester Dem<strong>an</strong>t Médaille d'Or Distell Ltd<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's 15 Year Old F<strong>in</strong>e Cask Reserve Médaille d'Or Distell Ltd<br />

Barry & Nephews Muscat <strong>Cape</strong> Pot Still Br<strong>an</strong>dy Médaille d'Argent <strong>South</strong>ern <strong>Cape</strong> V<strong>in</strong>eyards<br />

KWV 20 Year Old Pot still Br<strong>an</strong>dy Médaille d'Argent KWV Ltd<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> W<strong>in</strong>e show Results<br />

VERITAS RESULTS 2011<br />

Category Award Spirit<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Double Gold Flight of the Fish Eagle<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Double Gold KWV 15 Year Old<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Double Gold V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's 12yr Old Distillers Reserve<br />

St<strong>an</strong>dard Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold Comm<strong>an</strong>do<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold Imoya<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold Joseph Barry Muscat Pot Still Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold Klipdrift Gold<br />

Page 87 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold KWV 10 Jr<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold KWV 20 Jr<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold Laborie Alambic<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold Ladismith 8yr Pot Still Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold Oude Meester Sovereign 18yr Old<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold Tokara Five Year Old Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold Uitkyk Estate Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gr<strong>an</strong>d Reserve 10yrs<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's 10yr Old V<strong>in</strong>tage<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's 15yr Old F<strong>in</strong>e Cask Reserve<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Gold V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's 20yr Old Collectors Reserve<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver Collison's White Gold<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver Joseph Barry Traditional Pot Still Br<strong>an</strong>d<br />

St<strong>an</strong>dard Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver Klipdrift Export<br />

St<strong>an</strong>dard Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver Klipdrift Premium<br />

St<strong>an</strong>dard Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver KWV 3jr<br />

St<strong>an</strong>dard Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver KWV 5jr<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver Nederberg Solera<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver Oude Meester Dem<strong>an</strong>t<br />

Potstill Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver Oude Meester Reserve 12yr Old<br />

St<strong>an</strong>dard Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver Oude Meester VSOB<br />

St<strong>an</strong>dard Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver Richelieu<br />

St<strong>an</strong>dard Br<strong>an</strong>dy Silver Viceroy 5<br />

St<strong>an</strong>dard Br<strong>an</strong>dy Bronze K<strong>an</strong>go Premium VO Br<strong>an</strong>dewyn<br />

Page 88 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

VERITAS RESULTS 2010 (only double gold <strong>an</strong>d gold medals <strong>in</strong>cluded)<br />

Category Award Spirit<br />

Pot still Double Gold Klipdrift Gold OVM<br />

Pot still Double Gold KWV 20 Year Old Pot still Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

Pot still Double Gold Oude Meester Reserve 12 Year Old<br />

Pot still Double Gold V<strong>an</strong> Ryn’s 12 Year Old Reserve<br />

Pot still Double Gold V<strong>an</strong> Ryn’s 20 Year Old Collectors Reserve<br />

Pot still Gold Collison’s White Gold<br />

Pot still Gold Imoya VSOP<br />

Pot still Gold Laborie Alambic Br<strong>an</strong>dy 5 Year<br />

Pot still Gold Nederberg Solera Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

Pot still Gold Oude Meester Dem<strong>an</strong>t<br />

Pot still Gold V<strong>an</strong> Ryn’s 10 Year Old V<strong>in</strong>tage<br />

Pot still Gold V<strong>an</strong> Ryn’s 15 Year Old F<strong>in</strong>e Cask Reserve<br />

St<strong>an</strong>dard Gold Klipdrift Export Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

St<strong>an</strong>dard Gold Oude Meester VSOB Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

The Michel<strong>an</strong>gelo International W<strong>in</strong>e Awards 2011<br />

Award Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

Toneleria Magreñ<strong>an</strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy Trophy 2011 V<strong>an</strong> Ryn's 20 Year Collector’s Reserve<br />

6 How c<strong>an</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa cont<strong>in</strong>ue to compete with the other regions?<br />

Do br<strong>an</strong>dies need a home market before they c<strong>an</strong> have <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational one? The Key to <strong>South</strong> Africa’s<br />

success <strong>in</strong> the local <strong>an</strong>d the <strong>in</strong>ternational markets is first of all, exposure.<br />

We c<strong>an</strong>not sell our products competitively without the correct exposure. I believe the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong><br />

Br<strong>an</strong>dy producers, led by the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy Foundation are mak<strong>in</strong>g a huge effort <strong>in</strong> address<strong>in</strong>g<br />

this <strong>an</strong>d mak<strong>in</strong>g strides <strong>in</strong> achiev<strong>in</strong>g their goals.<br />

Page 89 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

We c<strong>an</strong>not compete with the large Cognac houses on the <strong>in</strong>ternational stage <strong>in</strong> terms of market share<br />

<strong>an</strong>d qu<strong>an</strong>tity of sales, but by the results above from the various International w<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d spirit shows we<br />

c<strong>an</strong> certa<strong>in</strong>ly compete with them <strong>in</strong> quality.<br />

The biggest challenge is address<strong>in</strong>g the lack of knowledge <strong>an</strong>d the misguided image of the category as a<br />

whole, locally first.<br />

This c<strong>an</strong> only come from the producers <strong>an</strong>d the Foundation gett<strong>in</strong>g the retailers, both on <strong>an</strong>d off sales,<br />

to become part of the solution. This though is a huge challenge.<br />

The image needs to be addressed across the board. Consumers see Cognac as a high class sophisticated<br />

dr<strong>in</strong>k but not <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>. <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy needs to push this image up via more frequent high class<br />

public events <strong>an</strong>d campaigns.<br />

All sales to restaur<strong>an</strong>ts, for example, need to accomp<strong>an</strong>y a proper br<strong>an</strong>ded <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> balloon, to ensure<br />

the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is served correctly.<br />

Image is everyth<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>an</strong>d the image of be<strong>in</strong>g served a <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> a balloon looks the part. In my op<strong>in</strong>ion<br />

from there it will start to show growth.<br />

A question I would like to raise is would sales improve if all <strong>Cape</strong> Pot still <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> had a s<strong>in</strong>gle identity,<br />

like Cognac. And not use the word <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>?<br />

How about “Stellegnac”? Or “Steleney”?<br />

7 How c<strong>an</strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy rega<strong>in</strong> lost ground to other spirits such as s<strong>in</strong>gle malt whiskeys<br />

<strong>in</strong> the local market?<br />

As <strong>in</strong> Chapter 9, the only way to do so is exposure.<br />

Like Metaxa has with the ‘Metaxa Bay’ club <strong>in</strong> Berl<strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> needs a forum to showcase its<br />

undeniable quality yet not <strong>in</strong> the traditional ‘Cigar lounge’ way.<br />

More events, more tast<strong>in</strong>gs, more focus!<br />

Page 90 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

I believe that off sales market<strong>in</strong>g is a good place to start. Design displays to be used <strong>in</strong> liquor retail<br />

outlets.<br />

A portable cocktail lounge that shows up at retail stores on Friday afternoons, the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> be<strong>in</strong>g bought<br />

from the store or bar. SMS’s be<strong>in</strong>g sent out only on the day to let ‘members’ know where it’s go<strong>in</strong>g to<br />

be. Create Hype<br />

Armagnac hosted a food <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac tast<strong>in</strong>g dur<strong>in</strong>g V<strong>in</strong>expo <strong>in</strong> Bordeaux this year. Several producers<br />

were <strong>in</strong>volved <strong>an</strong>d all had several bottl<strong>in</strong>g’s from their r<strong>an</strong>ges for tast<strong>in</strong>g. A very <strong>in</strong>formal function, more<br />

of a social meet, eat <strong>an</strong>d dr<strong>in</strong>k event. It was stunn<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>an</strong>d just the type of function that needs to be held<br />

every quarter or bi-monthly <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa.<br />

Both Cognac <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac have come up with their own cocktails, Armagnac has a program with major<br />

Hotels across Fr<strong>an</strong>ce, each with its own ‘Signature Armagnac Cocktail’ such as the Regent Gr<strong>an</strong>d Hotel <strong>in</strong><br />

Bordeaux has the ‘Le Victor Bar’ Magnac’. Cognac has the ‘Summit’.<br />

recipes.<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy needs its own cocktail. It could be a competition for consumers to submit<br />

Like Metaxa has with the ‘Metaxa Bay’ club <strong>in</strong> Berl<strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> needs a forum to showcase its<br />

undeniable quality yet not <strong>in</strong> the traditional Cigar lounge’ way.<br />

More events, more tast<strong>in</strong>gs, more focus!<br />

I believe that off sales market<strong>in</strong>g is a good place to start. Design displays to be used <strong>in</strong> liquor retail<br />

outlets.<br />

A portable cocktail lounge that shows up at retail stores on Friday afternoons, the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> be<strong>in</strong>g bought<br />

from the store or bar. Sms’s be<strong>in</strong>g sent out only on the day to let ‘members’ know where it’s go<strong>in</strong>g to<br />

be. Create Hype!!!!<br />

Armagnac hosted a food <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac tast<strong>in</strong>g dur<strong>in</strong>g V<strong>in</strong>expo <strong>in</strong> Bordeaux this year. Several producers<br />

were <strong>in</strong>volved <strong>an</strong>d all had several bottl<strong>in</strong>g’s from their r<strong>an</strong>ges for tast<strong>in</strong>g. A very <strong>in</strong>formal function, more<br />

of a social meet, eat <strong>an</strong>d dr<strong>in</strong>k event. It was stunn<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>an</strong>d just the type of function that needs to be held<br />

every quarter or bi-monthly <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa.<br />

Page 91 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Both Cognac <strong>an</strong>d Armagnac has come up with their own cocktails, Armagnac has a program with major<br />

Hotels across Fr<strong>an</strong>ce, each with its own ‘Signature Armagnac Cocktail’ such as the Regent Gr<strong>an</strong>d Hotel <strong>in</strong><br />

Bordeaux has the ‘Le Victor Bar’ Magnac’. Cognac has the ‘Summit’.<br />

SA Br<strong>an</strong>dy needs its own cocktail. It could be a competition for consumers to submit recipes.<br />

8 The Good Life Br<strong>an</strong>dy Festival. Its role <strong>an</strong>d its future<br />

2011 saw the 4 th <strong>in</strong>stalment of the Br<strong>an</strong>dy festival. It was bigger <strong>an</strong>d better th<strong>an</strong> before. Held at the<br />

S<strong>an</strong>dton Convention Centre the class of the venue totally outshone by the class of the event <strong>an</strong>d the<br />

br<strong>an</strong>dies themselves.<br />

Along with all the other <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> events, market<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d media focus <strong>in</strong> the past few months seemed to be<br />

on the ‘cocktail’ aspect. Yes the future of the category <strong>an</strong>d certa<strong>in</strong>ly the way to get beyond the bad<br />

reputation <strong>an</strong>d to get, particularly the younger generation to add a bottle of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> to the shopp<strong>in</strong>g<br />

cart, is the cocktail.<br />

As one entered the room a large circular cocktail bar welcomed you. There was a second smaller but<br />

equally welcom<strong>in</strong>g cocktail station run by F<strong>in</strong>e Br<strong>an</strong>dy. By Design. (What used to be called the Alchemy<br />

of Gold) where one could sample a different r<strong>an</strong>ge of <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> based cocktails.<br />

Once you have made your way past the cocktails the serious stuff awaited. A classy show with all the big<br />

br<strong>an</strong>ds both local <strong>an</strong>d imported exhibit<strong>in</strong>g. The Aston Mart<strong>in</strong> on display <strong>in</strong> the centre of the room proves<br />

the k<strong>in</strong>d of market the show <strong>an</strong>d <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> is been aimed at.<br />

Here are some statistics from the <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy Foundation who org<strong>an</strong>ised the event:<br />

The 2011 event saw <strong>an</strong> amaz<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>crease from the 2010 event of 230% with the total amount of visitors<br />

over the three days at 4,492, with the Friday night sold out <strong>an</strong>d filled to capacity.<br />

Page 92 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

With 83 media guests attend<strong>in</strong>g the first night the result<strong>in</strong>g media coverage, valued at R10.8 million the<br />

show has reached m<strong>an</strong>y more future <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> consumers.<br />

“We are delighted with the success of this year’s festival,” says Christelle Reade-Jahn, director of the<br />

<strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Br<strong>an</strong>dy Foundation, org<strong>an</strong>isers of the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry’s flagship event. “We went all out to<br />

revamp the festival, to make it bigger, more experience-driven, glitzier <strong>an</strong>d much more enterta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g –<br />

befitt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong>’s new image as the sexy new kid on the block.“<br />

The 2011 event <strong>an</strong>d the overwhelm<strong>in</strong>g response to the new look <strong>an</strong>d new attitude of the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong><br />

showpiece had def<strong>in</strong>itely shown the way forward.<br />

The org<strong>an</strong>isers <strong>an</strong>d all the producers <strong>an</strong>d exhibitors will now have to build on this success <strong>an</strong>d make the<br />

next event even more successful.<br />

Will there be similar events elsewhere around the country?<br />

Will there be a presence at other w<strong>in</strong>e shows?<br />

Will there be a cont<strong>in</strong>ued presence <strong>in</strong> the market dur<strong>in</strong>g the course of the year?<br />

I believe these are ways to cont<strong>in</strong>ue the momentum <strong>an</strong>d build towards the 2012 event.<br />

Will there be a bigger attend<strong>an</strong>ce of the smaller ‘Estate’ producers?<br />

The only disappo<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>g feature of the 2011 event was the almost total lack of Estate Br<strong>an</strong>dy, <strong>an</strong>d small<br />

boutique distillers. There were <strong>in</strong> fact only five Estate Br<strong>an</strong>dies exhibit<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong>d of those Nederberg (under<br />

Distell) <strong>an</strong>d Laborie Estate (under the KWV) do not really count.<br />

Backsberg, Uitkyk <strong>an</strong>d Ladismith were the only local br<strong>an</strong>dies that weren’t from one of the big distillers.<br />

I hope the 2012 edition addresses this <strong>an</strong>d allows for a greater representation across all producers.<br />

In Summary Christelle Reade-Jahn said <strong>in</strong> the 2011 F<strong>in</strong>e Br<strong>an</strong>dy Festival Feedback document “We have<br />

listened to your feedback <strong>an</strong>d the overwhelm<strong>in</strong>g message has been “this is the way to go forward,<br />

ch<strong>an</strong>ge perceptions <strong>an</strong>d be blown away by SA Br<strong>an</strong>dy. We <strong>in</strong>tend do<strong>in</strong>g just that <strong>in</strong> 2012. We need to<br />

align our strategy with that of our stakeholders, you the exhibitors <strong>an</strong>d members, <strong>an</strong>d then we will surely<br />

show the world that SA Br<strong>an</strong>dy deserves its iconic status.”<br />

(Koen)<br />

Page 93 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

9 Statistics <strong>an</strong>d figures<br />

Table 3: Grape utilization<br />

This highlights the utilization of the harvest per product type.<br />

Distill<strong>in</strong>g w<strong>in</strong>e refers to the w<strong>in</strong>e used for ‘spirit’ distillation, either for <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> production, other spirits or<br />

medic<strong>in</strong>al purposes. W<strong>in</strong>e for Br<strong>an</strong>dy refers to the w<strong>in</strong>e dest<strong>in</strong>ed for the base w<strong>in</strong>e production.<br />

6 PRODUCTION AND UTILISATION OF CROP<br />

6.1 TOTAL CROP<br />

Y<br />

E<br />

A<br />

R<br />

1<br />

9<br />

9<br />

7<br />

1<br />

9<br />

9<br />

8<br />

1<br />

9<br />

9<br />

GRAPE<br />

PRODUC<br />

TION<br />

TONS<br />

1 120<br />

602<br />

1 041<br />

004<br />

1 173<br />

596<br />

WINE PRODUCTS - GROSS LITRE<br />

WINE WINE<br />

546<br />

688 605<br />

544<br />

387 811<br />

595<br />

907 559<br />

FOR<br />

BRANDY<br />

142<br />

354 553<br />

107<br />

515 284<br />

47 972<br />

702<br />

AVE<br />

RAG<br />

E<br />

%<br />

ALC/<br />

VOL<br />

11.1<br />

1<br />

11.4<br />

9<br />

11.5<br />

2<br />

DISTILLI<br />

NG<br />

WINE<br />

122<br />

413 493<br />

118<br />

348 265<br />

152<br />

961 143<br />

AVE<br />

RAG<br />

E<br />

%<br />

ALC/<br />

VOL<br />

GRAPE<br />

JUICE<br />

CONCENT<br />

RATE<br />

AND<br />

GRAPE<br />

JUICE<br />

9.66 69 458<br />

508<br />

9.75 45 324<br />

10.0<br />

4<br />

129<br />

117 254<br />

086<br />

AVE<br />

RAG<br />

E<br />

%<br />

ALC/<br />

VOL<br />

11.2<br />

5<br />

11.8<br />

1<br />

11.2<br />

6<br />

TOTAL<br />

WINE<br />

CROP<br />

880 915<br />

159<br />

815 575<br />

489<br />

914 095<br />

490<br />

Page 94 of 104


9<br />

2<br />

0<br />

0<br />

0<br />

2<br />

0<br />

0<br />

1<br />

2<br />

0<br />

0<br />

2<br />

2<br />

0<br />

0<br />

3<br />

2<br />

0<br />

0<br />

4<br />

2<br />

0<br />

0<br />

5<br />

2<br />

0<br />

0<br />

6<br />

2<br />

0<br />

0<br />

7<br />

2<br />

0<br />

0<br />

8<br />

2<br />

0<br />

0<br />

9<br />

2<br />

0<br />

1<br />

0<br />

Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

1 098<br />

170<br />

977<br />

461<br />

1 079<br />

875<br />

1 233<br />

689<br />

1 312<br />

184<br />

1 171<br />

632<br />

1 301<br />

579<br />

1 351<br />

447<br />

1 425<br />

612<br />

1 347<br />

620<br />

1 261<br />

309<br />

540<br />

233 265<br />

530<br />

399 518<br />

567<br />

239 847<br />

712<br />

660 742<br />

696<br />

788 280<br />

628<br />

482 614<br />

709<br />

717 222<br />

730<br />

420 212<br />

763<br />

346 054<br />

805<br />

111 420<br />

780<br />

(SAWIS, 2011-06-06)<br />

733 243<br />

24 825<br />

560<br />

8 130<br />

916<br />

26 797<br />

303<br />

50 453<br />

126<br />

85 357<br />

180<br />

82 927<br />

858<br />

82 116<br />

414<br />

101<br />

487 106<br />

86 580<br />

058<br />

71 424<br />

165<br />

39 583<br />

031<br />

11.4<br />

6<br />

11.6<br />

7<br />

11.8<br />

0<br />

11.7<br />

5<br />

11.6<br />

6<br />

11.8<br />

4<br />

11.4<br />

8<br />

11.3<br />

1<br />

11.1<br />

5<br />

11.4<br />

9<br />

11.5<br />

1<br />

129<br />

857 983<br />

108<br />

546 970<br />

124<br />

794 222<br />

122<br />

209 343<br />

145<br />

774 848<br />

129<br />

238 525<br />

147<br />

945 171<br />

146<br />

361 237<br />

166<br />

558 133<br />

122<br />

123 936<br />

113<br />

275 957<br />

9.98 142 292<br />

10.0<br />

9<br />

10.0<br />

2<br />

995<br />

99 407<br />

830<br />

115 324<br />

822<br />

9.93 70 692<br />

300<br />

9.94 87 776<br />

683<br />

9.96 64 577<br />

10.0<br />

0<br />

593<br />

73 201<br />

381<br />

9.96 65 190<br />

234<br />

9.69 72 530<br />

790<br />

9.82 34 759<br />

776<br />

9.82 51 224<br />

874<br />

10.9<br />

9<br />

12.0<br />

4<br />

11.6<br />

5<br />

11.7<br />

1<br />

11.5<br />

4<br />

11.7<br />

0<br />

10.6<br />

1<br />

11.5<br />

7<br />

10.6<br />

6<br />

11.0<br />

4<br />

10.0<br />

0<br />

837 209<br />

803<br />

746 485<br />

234<br />

834 156<br />

194<br />

956 015<br />

511<br />

1 015<br />

696 991<br />

905 226<br />

590<br />

1 012<br />

980 188<br />

1 043<br />

458 789<br />

1 089<br />

015 035<br />

1 033<br />

419 297<br />

984 817<br />

105<br />

Page 95 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Table 4: Utilization growth<br />

This table refers to the percentages of the utilization from 2000 to 2010, show<strong>in</strong>g <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>crease of<br />

the crop <strong>in</strong> the ten year period.<br />

. (SAWIS, 2011-06-06)<br />

Table 8 refers to the qu<strong>an</strong>tity <strong>an</strong>d sales figures per category per year.<br />

Table 5: Br<strong>an</strong>dies market share <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

Table 5 refers to the market share per spirit over the ten year period <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa.<br />

10.4 MARKET FOR ALL SPIRITS IN SOUTH AFRICA<br />

(SAWIS, 2011-06-06)<br />

% SHARE BASED ON ALCOHOL CONTENT<br />

YEAR BRANDY WHISKY<br />

OTHER<br />

SPIRITS<br />

Table 6: the importation of spirits <strong>in</strong> to <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

TOTAL<br />

2001 43.4 20.2 36.4 100.0<br />

2002 44.9 19.1 36.0 100.0<br />

2003 45.8 18.9 35.3 100.0<br />

2004 46.4 19.5 34.1 100.0<br />

2005 47.1 20.7 32.2 100.0<br />

2006 47.4 22.4 30.2 100.0<br />

2007* 45.8 24.5 29.7 100.0<br />

2008* 42.7 27.9 29.4 100.0<br />

2009* 41.1 28.7 30.2 100.0<br />

2010* 39.0 32.3 28.7 100.0<br />

Figures based on various <strong>in</strong>dustry sources<br />

* Estimate<br />

Page 96 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Table 6 refers to the importation of spirits <strong>in</strong>to <strong>South</strong> Africa.<br />

LITRES AA<br />

YEAR LIQUEUR<br />

BRANDY<br />

WHISKY RUM GIN &<br />

VODKA<br />

OTHER<br />

SPIRITS<br />

1993 291 105 28 093 7 494 197 718 085 79 816 229 068<br />

1994 74 381 29 096 8 129 850 629 813 35 357 511 919<br />

1995 103 468 67 474 8 733 523 504 989 44 405 467 893<br />

1996 687 144 74 185 7 936 635 735 533 72 310 10 004 410<br />

1997 180 356 199 133 6 546 758 432 146 90 269 14 209 188<br />

1998 114 311 1 644<br />

445<br />

4 367 618 404 612 81 673 8 056 329<br />

1999 221 348 242 078 4 735 755 1 190 600 120 509 3 382 772<br />

2000 123 858 488 954 4 935 085 698 435 95 710 311 310<br />

2001 213 094 40 783 5 703 087 818 941 44 087 243 410<br />

2002 101 449 24 169 5 700 000 757 918 58 904 2 465 985<br />

2003 1 412 519 50 065 5 806 631 535 541 91 665 6 282 178<br />

2004 145 062 37 708 6 100 000 388 128 142 140 4 848 176<br />

2005 228 685 53 905 7 795 941 328 824 111 364 5 683 645<br />

2006 247 670 102 857 8 972 157 329 632 107 578 5 259 325<br />

2007 266 262 134 453 8 085 924 1 016 145 89 923 5 079 355<br />

2008 371 837 50 832 9 306 276 787 658 82 928 1 684 464<br />

2009 378 137 228 569 8 775 818 933 804 126 187 1 315 258<br />

2010 360 743 88 000 12 580 000 736 773 133 545 1 266 049<br />

(SAWIS, 2011-06-06)<br />

Table 7: Spirit consumption <strong>in</strong> <strong>South</strong> Africa<br />

Table 7 refers to the local consumption of spirits <strong>an</strong>d the decrease <strong>in</strong> the <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> market.<br />

Page 97 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

06)<br />

10.2 SPIRITS<br />

(SAWIS, 2011-06-<br />

All Tables below sourced from <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> W<strong>in</strong>e Industry Statistics (No. 35) (2011-06-06) (SAWIS,<br />

2011-06-06)<br />

(SAWIS, 2011-06-06)<br />

Appendixes<br />

LITRES AA TOTAL<br />

%<br />

YEAR BRANDY WINE SPIRIT CANE SPIRIT GRAIN SPIRIT TOTAL CHANGE<br />

1994 20 898 000 203 210 15 760 325 787 286 37 648 821 23.1<br />

1995 22 360 000 267 868 14 953 765 404 791 37 986 424 0.9<br />

1996 23 865 000 382 425 15 407 254 234 633 39 889 312 5.0<br />

1997 23 650 000 253 399 15 581 978 338 604 39 823 981 -0.2<br />

1998 19 565 000 286 094 14 791 976 713 894 35 356 964 -11.2<br />

1999 18 469 000 299 006 12 452 377 778 802 31 999 185 -9.5<br />

2000 16 628 000 225 246 13 570 323 116 117 30 539 686 -4.6<br />

2001 17 372 000 213 772 13 367 849 111 105 31 064 726 1.7<br />

2002 17 545 720 200 000 12 945 000 166 000 30 856 720 -0.7<br />

2003 18 072 000 200 000 12 426 000 204 000 30 902 000 0.1<br />

2004 18 710 000 200 000 12 200 000 250 000 31 360 000 1.5<br />

2005 19 651 000 200 000 11 860 000 263 000 31 974 000 2.0<br />

2006 20 240 000 200 000 11 267 000 289 000 31 996 000 0.1<br />

2007 20 000 000 200 000 11 325 000 332 000 31 857 000 -0.4<br />

2008 19 300 000 200 000 11 625 000 360 000 31 485 000 -1.2<br />

2009 18 050 000 183 000 11 683 000 330 000 30 246 000 -3.9<br />

2010 17 000 000 183 000 12 030 000 330 000 29 543 000 -2.3<br />

Figures based on various <strong>in</strong>dustry sources<br />

i. List of <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> Producers <strong>an</strong>d t he Br<strong>an</strong>dies.<br />

In order to have as comprehensive report as possible this list has been <strong>in</strong>cluded <strong>in</strong> order to show the<br />

extent of the <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>an</strong>d give smaller producers a possible platform.<br />

Producer Product<br />

Avontuur (n) Avontuur 5 Year Pot still*<br />

Avontuur 10 Year Pot still*<br />

Backsberg Sydney Back NV Year Pot still*<br />

Sydney Back 10 Year Pot still*<br />

Sydney Back 15 Year Pot still*<br />

Bezalel W<strong>in</strong>e <strong>an</strong>d Br<strong>an</strong>dy Estate Bezalel Estate’s Pure V.S.O.P Alembic Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

Blauwklippen (n) 8 Year old Potstill<br />

Bols Bols Blended<br />

Boplaas Family V<strong>in</strong>eyards Boplaas Carel Nel Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

Boplaas Pot still Br<strong>an</strong>dy 8 Year Reserve<br />

Page 98 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

Boplaas Pot still Br<strong>an</strong>dy 20 Year Reserve<br />

CWG 1996<br />

Cabriere F<strong>in</strong>e de Jourd<strong>an</strong><br />

De Compagnie De Compagnie Pot still*<br />

De Compagnie 10 Year Potstill*<br />

Distell Collison's White Gold*<br />

Comm<strong>an</strong>do<br />

Flight of the Fish Eagle*<br />

Klipdrift Export<br />

Klipdrift Gold*<br />

Klipdrift Premium<br />

Mellow wood 5<br />

Nederberg Potstill Solera*<br />

Oude Meester Diam<strong>an</strong>t*<br />

Oude Meester Reserve*<br />

Oude Meester Sovereign*<br />

Oude Meester VSOP<br />

Richelieu<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Ryn 10 (V)<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Ryn 12*<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Ryn 15*<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Ryn 20*<br />

Viceroy 5<br />

Drie Berge Drie Berge 3yr<br />

Drie Berge 5yr<br />

Edward Snell & Co. Well<strong>in</strong>gton Signature Premium<br />

Well<strong>in</strong>gton VO<br />

Grundheim Grundheim Natural Pot still*<br />

Henry Tayler & Ries Chateau VO<br />

Limos<strong>in</strong><br />

Olaf Bergh<br />

Jonkheer L<strong>an</strong>gverwag 5<br />

Jonkheer 3<br />

Kaapzicht Kaapzicht Pure Pot still*<br />

K<strong>an</strong>go Co-op K<strong>an</strong>go Premium VO Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

K<strong>an</strong>go H<strong>an</strong>nepoot Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

K<strong>an</strong>go Buchu Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

K<strong>an</strong>go Honeybush Br<strong>an</strong>dy<br />

Page 99 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

KWV KWV 3 Year<br />

KWV 5 Year<br />

KWV 10 Year*<br />

KWV 15 Year*<br />

KWV 20 Year*<br />

Imoya*<br />

Laborie Alambic*<br />

Louiesenhof Louiesenhof Marbonne Pot still*<br />

Mons Ruber Mons Ruber Pot still*<br />

Mooiuitsig Da Gama<br />

Hardehout<br />

Spes Bona<br />

Mooiuitsig<br />

Napier W<strong>in</strong>ery (n) Sir George Napier Pot still*<br />

Oude Molen Oude Molen 100 Reserve (V)<br />

Oude Molen VOV 14 Year Old*<br />

Oude Molen René S<strong>in</strong>gle Cask*<br />

Oude Molen Solera Gr<strong>an</strong>d Reserve*<br />

Oude Well<strong>in</strong>gton Dr Schumacher Potstill 3 Year Old*<br />

Dr Schumacher Potstill 5 Year Old*<br />

Dr Schumacher Potstill 10 Year Old*<br />

Pernod Ricard Martell VO<br />

Martell Five Star<br />

Sav<strong>in</strong>gnac de Versailles Sav<strong>in</strong>gnac 5 Year Pot still*<br />

Sav<strong>in</strong>gnac 10 Year Pot still*<br />

Sav<strong>in</strong>gnac 1997 v<strong>in</strong>tage<br />

<strong>South</strong>ern <strong>Cape</strong> V<strong>in</strong>eyards Barry & Nephews Muscat Potstill*<br />

Joseph Barry 10 Year Potstill*<br />

Joseph Barry Traditional Pot still*<br />

Tokara Tokara 5 Year Pot still*<br />

Upl<strong>an</strong>d Org<strong>an</strong>ic Estate Upl<strong>an</strong>d Pure Pot still*<br />

Gu<strong>in</strong>evere Cask Strength Pot still*<br />

Uitkyk Uitkyk 10 Year Pot still*<br />

V<strong>an</strong> Loveren (n) Five's Reserve<br />

W<strong>in</strong>kelshoek W<strong>in</strong>kelshoek 3 Ster<br />

W<strong>in</strong>kelshoek 5 Ster<br />

Zomerlust Gastehuis (n) Paarl Rock<br />

* - Potstill<br />

Page 100 of 104


Derek Ramsden <strong>South</strong> <strong>Afric<strong>an</strong></strong> <strong>br<strong>an</strong>dy</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>an</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational <strong>context</strong><br />

V - V<strong>in</strong>tage<br />

N - Non-members (Koen)<br />

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