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A BOTANICAL TOUR AMONG THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 123
to our visit. It consisted of two tables, a sofa, some chaii's, a chiifonier, and,
if I mistake not, a Brussels carpet covered the iloor. A large min-or, and
some pictures representing sacred subjects, were hung over the mantelpiece,
upon which were a few neat ornaments. When my friend and I were about
to leave, " his Excellency " asked if we liked brandy or wine, and immediately
placed iipon the table two decanters, together with some new pipes and to-
bacco. He paid a visit to the commodore on the morning we left, he having
only returned from Tonga the day before in his father's schooner. When he
was leaving the ship he was honoured with a salute of seven guns, a mark of
consideration with which he was highly delighted. It is due to the commo-
dore to observe that the courtesy he invariably paid to the chiefs of the various
islands, seemed likely to engender good feehng and favourable relations.
Eespect and kindness, in whatever form, must tend to induce those uncivilized
people to throw off then* savage character, and aspii'e to a higher humanity.
It was by the consideration and good will of previous visitors, together with
assiduous missionary labom* (and this has done more good than many credit)
that the Grovernor of Yavau and his father, the King of Tonga, and the
Friendly Islands generally, have advanced so far in civilization. The " governor"
was decidedly the most civilized chief we met with during the cruise.
The worst feature of Yavau is that it is badly watered. Notwitlistanding this,
however, it is always moist and fertile, owing to its rich soil, occasional
showers, and the dews which fall at night.
A few days' steam took us safely to Ovalau, Fiji Islands. Our first port
there was Levuka, and our next anchorage was at the mouth x»f the Eewa
Eiver, in Viti-levu, or Big Fiji. Levuka gives one but a very vague idea of
the beautiful scenery of the Fijis, although I must say that the vegetation
around it is rich ; and, without doubt, the island of Ovalau contains a greater
variety of plants than any place of its size in the Fijis. But one must go
round to the other side of the island, and thence across to Bau and up the
river if he wishes to see ti-opical verdure beautifully displayed. I was never
more delighted, however, than with a trip to the island of Wakaya (eight miles
to the windward of Ovalau), belonging to Dr. Brower, the American consul,
who resides there, and who certainly deserves great praise for the manner in
which he has turned his attention towards the growth of cotton, coffee, and
sugar, which succeed admirably. His plantations of Sea-island cotton are
extensive, and the quality the best I have seen anywhere. This paradise is
seven miles long by two miles in greatest width. It is well watered by several
I'unning streams, and thi'ough its charming green hills and park-Uke forests
may be seen several hundi-ed head of fine cattle and sheep. They need
neither stock-keepers nor shepherds, and, revelling in the best of pastures,
they seem to be quite at home. The doctor informed me that eight years ago
he introduced ten head of cattle, which have now increased to nearly two hun-
dred head. He has several well-bred horses, as well as goats, pigs, and fowls
in quantity.
I had some very laborious, though truly interesting, tours through the moim-
tains of Ovalau. The highest peak here is said to be about 2080 feet, which I
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