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68 THE EXPLORATION OF THE CAUCASUS<br />

sense of time. If a traveller lets them discover that he is in a<br />

hurry, or is dependent on their aid, they will take every advantage<br />

of the situation. Though not bloodthirsty, they are quick-tempered,<br />

and it is their custom to wear arms, and their habit to draw their<br />

daggers when excited. The action, it is true, is in most cases little<br />

more than an oratorical gesture, but there have been —<br />

exceptions<br />

a Eussian Governor of Mingrclia was once poignarded by a<br />

Suanetian Prince—and it is obviously expedient to observe the<br />

limits of polite discussion. The high-handed manner which is almost<br />

de rigiieur with a Russian postmaster is quite thrown away on<br />

the jDeople of the mountains. The Caucasian traveller has further<br />

to guard against the greatest enemy of explorers, and that which<br />

the Alpine climber is least prepared for— different forms of illness.<br />

The imperfectly baked and coarse rye-bread, poor diet and ex-<br />

posure have in many cases, particularly among the Alpine guides<br />

taken out, resulted in dysentery.<br />

Sea bi'eed fevers, and in one<br />

The lowlands towards the Black<br />

— pai'ty that of 1874 — all the<br />

mountaineers were attacked— it<br />

partly, is true, through their own<br />

imprudence in bathing at sunrise in the notoriously malarious<br />

waters of the Kodor. Personally, I have never suffered in any<br />

way from the climate, nor has my old guide D^vouassoud, and I<br />

believe, with a little care and preventive doses of quinine, the<br />

chance of falling ill in the one or two days spent within the<br />

fever -level by those who approach the mountains from the south,<br />

may be reduced to a very<br />

remote one. On the north side there<br />

is no risk whatever. The atmosphere, however, is generally<br />

and the effects of a chill are not<br />

damper than that of the Alps,<br />

so quickly thrown off.<br />

In the preceding sentences I have made the most of the<br />

difficulties to be encountered. Many of them can be obviated ;<br />

others are diminishing year by year. The traveller,<br />

if he is a<br />

person of ordinary discretion, need now be under no apprehension<br />

as to his personal security.<br />

Such being the condition of the countiy, it is obvious that<br />

what is needed to make travel easy<br />

is the establishment of<br />

a system similar to that which for many years has proved so

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