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268 THE EXPLORATION OF THE CAUCASUS<br />

religions and doing no work between Thursday night and Monday<br />

morning.<br />

The supper that evening showed the resources of Suanetia.<br />

We all, except the Bishop, sat down to it— a company of at least<br />

thirty. Roast mutton and boiled fowls were followed by roast<br />

pork. Knives fell short, and plates shorter. But the baser sort<br />

at the lower end of the table used their kinjals (daggers) for<br />

knives, and the flat loaves—<br />

A BUY .\T Ml'JAL<br />

to start again for Tetnuld. M. de Dechy<br />

excellently baked for once in<br />

the Bishop's honour— served as<br />

plates first and were eaten<br />

afterwards, after the fashion of<br />

yEneas. And there was wine<br />

at discretion — capital, sound<br />

Mingrelian wine, which no one<br />

but the guides despised for its<br />

goatskin flavour. It was long<br />

past midnight when I retired<br />

between the folds of my insect-<br />

proof curtains, watched by a<br />

solemn group of long-robed<br />

priests and peasants, resembling<br />

nothing so much as the bystanders<br />

depicted in the Ra-<br />

phael Cartoons.<br />

The sky next morning was<br />

less charged with vapour, and<br />

there was a touch of north in<br />

the wind. I was determined<br />

was anxious not to lose<br />

the advantage of the expected visit of the Priestav from Betsho,<br />

and his assistance both in recovering his lost apparel and in<br />

making final arrangements with the villagers to serve as porters.<br />

It will be most convenient if I give here the result of our<br />

application. Early in the afternoon of the second day, after I<br />

had started for Tetnuld, a party of villagers came in from Adish.

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