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THE ASCEXT OF TETNULD 267<br />

of the valley only the white snout of the Zanner Glacier is seen<br />

beyond the dark cliifs and forests of a deep gorge.<br />

Next day we despatched the priest's son with 15 roubles (28<br />

shillings) to Adish to try to recover our goods. In case of his<br />

failure we sent the Suanetian Cossack to Betsho to inform the<br />

Priestav of our loss.<br />

About noon I, with two of the guides, made a futile start for<br />

Tetnuld. We got on the wrong side of the gorge leading to the<br />

Zanner Glacier, and after spending some liours of storm under an<br />

impenetrable pine, came back again. The weather all day was like<br />

that of the English Lakes, storm and gleams, and we had some<br />

wild visions of Ushba hung<br />

witli cloud-banners.<br />

Tlie following day was all storm and no gleam. We had, how-<br />

ever, our fill of entertainment indoors. It was a day of arrivals.<br />

First there was the advance of the Russian forces to avenge<br />

the Rape of the Shirts. They consisted of a splendid<br />

old Cossack<br />

sergeant — quite the popular ideal of a Cossack—and his two men,<br />

a mild, broad-faced Russian youth and a weak Suanetian. This<br />

trio marched on Adish, and, very mvich to our surprise<br />

and their<br />

credit, successfully arrested the ten leading villagers.<br />

Another arrival was promised us— no less a person than the<br />

Bishop of Poti, the first Bishop who, in historical times, liad<br />

penetrated Free Suanetia. From, so fever-stricken a see one might<br />

naturally look for a pale ascetic. Our prelate, however, was much<br />

the reverse— a man of sturdy frame and sense. But I am antici-<br />

pating.<br />

It was towards evening before the path that descends<br />

the beautiful slopes above the village became alive with horses.<br />

The cavalcade was divided into many detachments, camp-servants<br />

with huge saddle-bags, long-haired priests, singing-men with dark<br />

locks and melancholy stag-like eyes. Last came the Bi.shop himself<br />

a large, thick-set man in imposing ecclesiastical vestments, attended<br />

by his secretary and a Mingrelian gentleman who talked Fi-ench<br />

and had spent some time at Geneva. Through the latter I had<br />

told me that the first sermon<br />

• some talk with the Bishop, who<br />

he preached to the Suanetians would be on the necessity of<br />

giving up their eclectic practice of keeping the holy days of three

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