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TRAVEL AND MOUNTAINEERING IN SUANETIA 247
Tlie moraines of the Gul Glacier are gigantic and out of all
proportion to its size. Their dhnensions become instructive when
their true origin has been recognised. They represent not the
excavating capacity of this small, and not very steep, ice-stream,
but the extent and looseness of the clifts that surround its nere.
They are fonned of the missiles the demon of Ushba is constantly
hurling across the path of his assailants. These vast piles of
spent projectiles may well give cause for reflection to those who
do not feel confident that climbing a frozen chimney under fire
is altoafether a reasonable form of recreation. The caution is the
more called for, as from this point
of view the proportions of the
great mountain are not fully
of their terrors.
displayed, and its cliffs conceal some
Now w^e were at its very base, Ushba looked less formidable than
might have been expected ; less formidable than it is in reality.
The Meije and the Cimon della Pala have certainly both a
greater air of inaccessibility. The mountain is, of course, much
foi-eshortened. It must be remembered, also, that the great snow-
ti'ough between the peaks is rather dangerous and laborious than
difficult. Were it not for the missiles— stones and icicles— that
sweep it from time to time, the ascent to the saddle would not
be beyond the powers of any strong party when the slopes are
in fair condition. Mr. Cockin came down them in the dark,
and with '
one shoe off' ! The rocks of the southern peak are
very formidable, and it seems dovibtful whether the ridge leading
to the top from the saddle can be climbed directly. There may
be other ways, either on the western or eastern face of the
final peak. Possibly its conquerors will, as in the case of the
Matterhorn, reach it by disregarding altogether the tracks of
their predecessors. Very favourable conditions, however,
will be
required for the ascent.
The local conditions in July 1887 were the reverse of favour-
able. Never in the Alps have I heard a mountain keep up for
hours a continuous discharge of miniature avalanches. On the whole
of the upper slopes the surface snow, under the influence of the
mid-day sun, was peeling off. It was not falling in masses, but