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TRAVEL AND MOUNTAINEERING IN SUANETIA 237
an ancient sacred grove which has been destroyed by weather or
war. Throughout Suanetia there are traces of tree-worship in
early times. In several of the villages a single tree of great age
and size is found near the cluu-ch on a sort of village green with,
beneath its shade, ancient tombstones, and a stone seat apparently
used in village assemblies.' We saw the outside of the hunter's
-
home where Mr. Phillipps WoUey was lodged,
'
fifty off-forepaws of bears in varying
stages of decomposition.' I went
carefully over the house and tower
in which our host had consti'ucted
his apartments ; it varied little, if
at all, from that I have described
in the last chapter.
I naturally did not limit my ex-
ploration to the three villages that
form Ushkul. A pleasant walk of
two or three hours up the grassy
dale of the Ingur leads to the
junction of the Shkara and Xuamkuam
Glaciers at the very base of
the enormous cliffs of the great chain.
The ice is in retreat, and has left
behind it a tract which is full of
decorated with
THE HUSTEK'S home, USHKCL
interest for the student of glacier action. As far as 1 can learn
from their works, some English glacialists are not much given to
studying the Reports of the United States Survey. It seems to
me a pity, for they convey usefid cautions to the inconsiderate
advocates of glacial erosion. Here, in front of the Ingur Glacier,
were to be seen on a small scale, as in a model, most of the
features found on the outer edge of the region once covered by
the great North American ice-flood. Within the Umits marked
' For the Caucasus, see Bell's and Longworth's Travels in Circassia; generally Frazer's
Golden Bovgh, vol. L, and Fergusson's Tree and Serpent Worship. Similar stone 'Chairs of
Justice '
are found in some of the villages of Val de Lys, south of Monte Rosa. See Brosset's
Rapports sur un voyage archiologique dans la Oeorgie et dans I'Arminie, 1847-48.