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232 THE EXPLORATION OF THE CAUCASUS<br />

were sheepskins, or rags and tatters, theii* coats as often as not<br />

sleeveless, their headgear dirty hashliks tied up into turbans, or small<br />

shapeless pieces of cloth, from the size of a crovm-piece upwards,<br />

fastened on the top of wild, un-<br />

STKEET rs rSHKUL<br />

kempt<br />

locks. The women were<br />

as a rule hideous, and their<br />

dress was shapeless ; the<br />

children wore a single piece of<br />

sacking, or nothing<br />

at all. We<br />

could not sit outside our bam<br />

without being mobbed : if we<br />

retreated for peace into the<br />

black interior, we were pur-<br />

sued by individuals who planted<br />

themselves a yard oflP, took a<br />

steady stare which lasted any<br />

time from five to fifteen<br />

minutes, and then began to<br />

ovei'haul our persons, with as<br />

little scruple as if we had been<br />

figuies<br />

in a waxwork show.<br />

Here a line had to be drawn<br />

and the sightseers requested<br />

'<br />

not to touch any of the objects<br />

exhibited.' But still, on one<br />

pretext or another, visitors crowded in, and as the day wore on,<br />

grew more and more aggi'avating. Towards evening a short<br />

revolver practice, and a bold statement b}' om- Mingrelian in-<br />

terpreter, an old servant and ti-avelling companion of Giftbrd<br />

Palgrave, that our weapons were self-loading, produced a certain<br />

pause in the persecution. But we barricaded ourselves in for the<br />

second night, not without some apprehension as to how it would<br />

pass, or how we should get away from the place next morning.<br />

Our final departure was a singularly dramatic scene, and gave<br />

promise at one time of a tragic ending. After an attempt on the<br />

part of the people to separate us, by shutting our interpreter

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