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20.S THE EXTLOKATION OF THE CAUCASUS that of the West Coast of Scotland or the English Lakes. The afternoon breezes from the Black Sea bring up showers and vapours to colour the atmosphere, to soften the mountain outlines and magnify their bulk. The north wind from the stejjpe suffuses the sky with an impalpable haze through which the great peaks glimmer like golden pillars of the dawn. To the natural beauties, the snowy peaks, the flowers and forests of the Suanetian landscape, man has added something. It is a land where every man's house is his castle. The meadows and the cultivated valleys are strewn with high white towers. In one spot a single tower stands isolated, in another they cluster in groups of fifty to eighty. Every hamlet has as many towers as the cities of Tuscany in the Middle Ap-es. Nothincj so fan- tastic as these family fortresses can be seen elsewhere outside San Gimignano or the frame of an Old Master. Mestia alone boasts seventy towers, each 40 to 80 feet liigh ; Ushkul over fifty, and two black castles besides. The houses to which the towers are attached are quadrangular blocks, slate - roofed , without cliimneys, and with narrow slits, closed by wooden shutters, for windows. Sometimes they have no windows at all, the light penetrating only thi'ough the A TOWER AT USUKUL interstices in the unmortared wall, while the smoke escapes through the roof. Torches made of bu-ch - bark are used at night : a wooden passage, capable of being cut down in case of necessity, the tower of refuge. leads to the first floor of
B! SUANETIA 2oy Let us enter one of these houses or barns. It contains a single larq-e, dark room : two or tliree boulders form the hearth ; the furniture consists of a few wooden stools or benches scattered about the earthen lioor ; in the corner is a raised wooden platform with skins and cushions, the family couch. By groping up a nari-ow passage we may i-each the entrance to the tower; ladders or notched logs, easily removable, lead from storey to storey. The CHUKCH WITH FRESCOES AT LEXJER ladders are short, and to gain each storey one has to scramble up the last few feet by projecting stones left in the wall. Skulls and horns of wild goats lie about on the landings ; on the top storey are loop-holes for firing. The towers are built of unsquared blocks of granite or slate, and generally whitewashed. At Ushkul, however, the two castles have been left their natural dark colour. In the upper and more lawless communities w^ood was, until quite lately, very sparingly employed. In Lower, or Dadish Kilian's Suanetia, timber balconies, barns, and even houses built of un- VOL. I. o
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B!<br />
SUANETIA 2oy<br />
Let us enter one of these houses or barns. It contains a<br />
single larq-e, dark room :<br />
two<br />
or tliree boulders form the hearth ;<br />
the furniture consists of a few wooden stools or benches scattered<br />
about the earthen lioor ; in the corner is a raised wooden platform<br />
with skins and cushions, the family couch. By groping up<br />
a nari-ow<br />
passage we may i-each the entrance to the tower; ladders or<br />
notched logs, easily removable, lead from storey to storey. The<br />
CHUKCH WITH FRESCOES AT LEXJER<br />
ladders are short, and to gain each storey one has to scramble up<br />
the last few feet by projecting stones left in the wall. Skulls and<br />
horns of wild goats lie about on the landings ; on the top storey<br />
are loop-holes for firing. The towers are built of unsquared blocks<br />
of granite or slate, and generally whitewashed. At Ushkul,<br />
however, the two castles have been left their natural dark colour.<br />
In the upper and more lawless communities w^ood was, until<br />
quite lately, very sparingly employed. In Lower, or Dadish Kilian's<br />
Suanetia, timber balconies, barns, and even houses built of un-<br />
VOL. I. o